Arab Costumes and Jewelary

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Arab Costumes & Jewelry

A legacy withoutand Borders Arab Costumes Jewelry a legacy without Borders

Parures & mode Arabe

Un patrimoine sans frontiere

Hana Sadiq

Arab Costumes and Jewelry a legacy without Borders


Contents

• Introduction • Jewelry since the beginning of human history • Ancient civilizations in the Arab World • Jewelry and Islamic civilization • Races and religions that influenced Arab costumes and jewelry • Symbols and colors in ancient beliefs • The difficulty of identifying the origins of Arab jewelry • Colors and their meaning in Arab costumes • Examples of textile styles in Arab history • Original clothing types shared in all Arab costumes • Conclusion • Author’s Biography • Bibliography • Anklet • Belt and Buckles • Necklaces • Bracelets • Rings • Earrings • Head ornament • Various Items • Costumes

9 11 12 14 16 19 21 23 25 30 33 58 60 62 80 96 146 198 216 232 256 284


Introduction

Symbolism that is embedded in aesthetic and demonstrative ornamentations often has much to reveal about societies, and those presented in Arab jewelry and costumes bring to light the character, as well as the social diversity and unity among Arab cultures. Such artistic expressions that are found in Arab jewelry and costumes could serve as living proof of the affinity and common traditions within the cultural heritage, and of the intermingling and blending between neighboring civilizations. Collectors, regardless of their varying types, are especially aware of the dedication their hobbies require in terms of time, money and patience; not to mention travel, inquisitive reading and ongoing research. Moreover, such hobbies entail the preservation of collections in special rooms and with suitable temperatures to protect them from damage or theft. Despite all efforts, however, the passion and eagerness collectors experience when obtaining rare items not only makes their burdens bearable, but they actually derive enjoyment from those endeavors. My personal aspiration in collecting traditional costumes and jewelry led me to a path of discovery of and communication with the Arab cultural heritage. This involvement instilled a sense of concern within me for the preservation of this heritage, and fear that we would lose such an impressive culture that has been narrating to us our own stories. Despite the extremely difficult political conditions and heavy migration, it has nevertheless been noted that migration and stability (when done out of personal conviction) actually fosters understanding and harmony among us, and enriches our cultures and traditions. The sudden wealth from oil in many Arab countries (starting from the early 20th century) has created a shift in culture, and set forth predominantly materialistic behavioral patterns that would differentiate between rich and poor, educated and illiterate. This shift in the way of thinking has rendered authenticity as just another commercial product. People destroyed their traditional homes instead of restoring them. They imported synthetic cloth rather than 3


4


Anklet Bracelet de Cheville

‫اخللخال‬ 5


A37

Heavy silver anklet granulated with a central disc. Can be found in Yemen. Bracelet de cheville en argent massif, granulé avec un disque au centre. Se trouve au Yémen. ‫خلخال فضة مغلق ثقيل له قرص وسطي ومع كثير من الكرات الفضة‬ .‫يستعمل في اليمن‬

A38

Hollow silver anklet granulated from Yemen and west of the Arabic Peninsula. Bracelet de cheville en argent creux, granulé. Du Yémen et l’Est de la Péninsule Arabe. ‫خلخال فضة مغلق مفرغ مضاف إليه كرات كثيرة يستعمل في اليمن‬ .‫وغرب الجزيره العربية‬ A39

Hollow silver anklet, embossed. Used in Oman, Yemen and East of the Arabic Peninsula. (used as a bracelet). Bracelet de cheville creux, travaillé en relief. Utilisé à Oman, au Yémen et l’Est de la Péninsule Arabe. (utilisé comme bracelet). ‫خلخال فضة نفخ منقوش مغلق يستعمل في عمان واليمن وشرق‬ . ‫الجزيره العربية‬ A40

Pair of hollow silver anklets filigree work. Used in Yemen and the Arabic Peninsula. Paire de bracelets de cheville, creux, travaillés en filigrane. Utilisés au Yémen et la Péninsule Arabe. ‫زوج خلخال فضة مفرغ مغلق يميزه شغل الفليكري فوقه ( يستعمل‬ .‫ اليمن والجزيره العربية‬,)‫اليوم كاسوار‬

6


A41

Pair of hollow silver anklets with plain design and a clasp. Used in Iraq, North of the Arabic Peninsula and East of Syria. Paire de bracelets de cheville creux très simples avec fermoir. Utilisés en Iraq, Nord de la Péninsule Arabe et l’Est de la Syrie. ‫زوج خلخال من الفضة المفرغ بدون نقش له قفل يستعمل في العراق‬ .‫وشمال الجزيرة العربية وشرق سوريا‬ A42

Pair of open silver anklets with twisted wire and dangling balls. Used in Syria, Iraq and Egypt. Paire de bracelets de cheville ouverts, torsadés, avec des boules suspendues. Utilisés en Syrie, Iraq et Egypte. ‫زوج خالخل من الفضة المبرومة مفتوح ويعلق فيه طابات يستعمل في‬ . ‫سوريا ومصر والعراق‬ A43

Pair of hollow silver anklets, welded with wires and pearls of silver. From Yemen and the Arabic Peninsula. Paire de bracelets de cheville en argents, creux, décorés avec des perles et fils d’argents. Du Yémen et la Péninsule Arabe. ‫زوج خالخل من الفضة مفرغ ومقفول وله نقوش ملحومه يستعمل في‬ . ‫اليمن والجزيرة العربية‬

A44

Hollow silver anklet filigree work. From Yemen and the Arabic peninsula. Bracelet de cheville creux travaillé en filigrane. Du Yémen et la Péninsule Arabe. ‫خلخال فضة مفرغ ومقفول عليه نقش الفليكري يستعمل في‬ . ‫اليمن والجزيرة العربية‬

7


8


Bracelets Bracelets

‫الأ�ساور‬

9


W1

Upper arm silver bracelet, engraved with magical designs. From Egypt and Tunisia. Bracelet pour le haut du bras en argent, gravé de signes magiques. D’Egypte et Tunisie. .‫ مصر‬، ‫اسوارة زند فضية عليها نقش سحري‬

W2

Upper arm silver bracelet inlaid with red stone. From Yemen. Bracelet pour le haut du bras en argent incrusté d’une pierre rouge. Du Yémen. .‫ اليمن‬، ‫اسوارة زند فضية عليها حجر أخمر‬

W3

Upper arm silver bracelet shaped like a snake. From Iraq. Bracelet pour le haut du bras en argent en forme de serpent. D’Iraq. .‫ العراق‬،‫سوار زند فضي على شكل حية عليه نقش وله أجراس‬

W4

Upper arm silver bracelet inlaid with colored stones and with little bells. From Egypt and Sudan. Bracelet pour le haut du bras en argent incrusté de pierres en couleurs avec clochettes. D’Egypte et Soudan. .‫ مصر والسودان‬، ‫سوار زند فضي عليه أحجار ملونة وله أجراس‬

W5

Upper arm silver bracelet inlaid with blue stone and little bells. From Egypt and Sudan. Bracelet pour le haut du bras en argent incrusté d’une pierre pierre bleu. D’Egypte et Soudan. .‫ مصر والسودان‬، ‫سوار زند فضي مع حجر أزرق ومنقوش وله أجراس‬

10


W6

Upper arm silver bracelet, engraved with magical designs and little bells. From Libya, Sudan and Egypt. Bracelet pour le haut du bras en argent, gravé de signes magiques et clochettes. De Libye, Soudan et Egypte. ‫سوار زند فضي عليه رسومات سحرية وأجراس تستعمل في مصر ليبيا‬ .‫السودان‬ W7

Upper arm silver bracelet made of twisted wire, inlaid with colored stones and little bells. From Egypt and Syria. Bracelet pour le haut du bras en argent fait de fil torsadé, incrusté de pierres de couleurs avec clochettes. D’Egypte et Syrie. .‫سوار زند فضي على شكل مبروم وله أحجار تستعمل في مصر سوريا‬

W8

Silver bracelets with spikes representing the female breast (to imply breast feeding). From Yemen and Oman. Bracelets en argent avec épis représentant la poitrine de la femme (pour suggérer l’allaitement). Du Yémen et Oman. ُ .‫ اليمن وعمان‬، )‫أساور فضية تحمل مدببات ( ترمز الى الثدي للرضاعة‬

11


V8

Pair of stamped silver swords, signed by the maker. From Iraq. Paire d’épées en argent poinçonnées et signées par le fabriquant. D’Iraq. ‫زوج سيوف فضة مختومة‬ .‫ العراق‬، ‫وموقعة بأسم صانعها‬

12


V9

V10

Silver vase. Iraq. Vase d›argent. Irak . ‫العراق‬, ‫مزهرية فضية‬

Kohl container with colored enamel. From India. Récipient à Kohl avec email en couleur. D’Inde. .‫ الهند‬، ‫مكحلة بالمينة الملونة‬

V11

Copper glass and vase inlaid with silver. From Egypt and Syria. Verre et vase en cuivre incrustés d’argent. D’Egypte et Syrie. ‫مزهرية وكأس للماء نحاس‬ ، )‫منزل عليها فضة (تكفيت‬ .‫سوريا ومصر‬

V12

Silver plate, gold plated, with green enamel, inlaid with colored beads, engraved. From Egypt. Assiette gravée en argent plaquée or avec émail vert, incrustée de pierres en couleurs.D’Egypte. .‫ مصر‬، ‫صحن فضة مطلي ذهب محفور عليه مينة ملونة وزجاج ملون‬

V13

Big and heavy silver trays, engraved with floral and animal designs. Made in Iraq by Iraniens. Grand et lourd plateaux gravés avec dessin floraux et animaux. Fabriqué en Iraq par des Iraniens. ‫صينية كبيرة وثقيلة فضة محفوره برسومات‬ ‫نباتية وحيوانية مع حاشية بأشكال آدمية‬ .‫مصنوعة في العراق من قبل ايرانين‬

13


Costumes Les Costumes

‫الأزياء و الن�سيج‬

14


15


X236

Hair ornament with beads and buttons. From Yemen and the Arabic Peninsula. Ornement pour la tête avec boutons et perles. Du Yémen et la Péninsule Arabe. .‫ اليمن والجزيرة العربية‬،‫زينه للشعر مع أزرار وودع‬

X237

Hair ornament with embroidery and buttons. From Central Asia. Ornement pour la tête brodé et avec boutons. D’Asie Centrale. .‫ أواسط أسيا‬،‫زينة للشعر تطريز مع أزرار‬ X238

Hair ornament with beads. Palestine, Syria, Jordan. Ornement pour la tête avec perles. Palestine, la Syrie, la Jordanie. ‫انواع من زينه للشعر خرز و ليرات من الحرير و‬ .‫االردن‬, ‫سوريا‬,‫ فلسطين‬،‫الصوف‬

X239

Hair ornament with silver beads. From Yemen . Ornement pour la tête avec perles en argent. Du Yémen . .‫ اليمن‬،‫زينه للشعر خرز فضة مع ودع‬ 16


X240

Silk scarf embroidered with metallized thread and calligraphy. From Iraq. Echarpe en soie brodée avec fil métallisé et calligraphie. D’Iraq.

‫ العراق‬،‫شال حرير مطرز بكتابات من خيط فضي‬.

X241

Light cotton table cloth embroidered with calligraphy. From Iran. Nappe de table en coton fin, brodée de calligraphie. D’Iran. . ‫ إيران‬،‫زينة طاولة من قماش الشاش مطرز بكتابات‬

X242

Doilies in crochet or embroidery. From Syria. Napperon en crochet ou broderie. De Syrie. ،‫قطع نسيج يدوي و تطريز متوسطة الحجم للطاولة‬ .‫سوريا‬ 17


‫العربية‬ ‫الحيل‬ ‫و‬ ‫االزياء‬ ‫ﺍﻷﺯﻳﺎﺀ ﻭﺍﻟﺤﻠﻲ ﺍﻟﻌﺮﺑﻴﺔ‬ ‫بال حدود‬

‫ﺑﻼ ﺣﺪﻭﺩ‬

‫ﻫﻨﺎﺀ ﺻﺎﺩﻕ‬

‫االزياء و الحيل العربية‬ ‫بال حدود‬


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