“travel.inspire.create. repeat.�
inspected placement report. emily butcher. ba fashion. blog link: http://emily-inspected.tumblr.com.
Fig 1.
Contents: List of illlustrations: page 5. Industry Forecast: page 6. Job Role Forecast: page 8. Personal Forecast: page 10. Conclusion: page 11. Industry Interview: page 12. Bibliography: page 14. Presentation Plan: page 15. Current CV: page 16. Learning Agreement: page 17.
Fig 4.
List of illustrations:
Fig 2.
Figure 1: ‘How to build a collection’ by Inspected. Kasper Plougmand + Emily Butcher. 20/04/16. (graphic illustration) FIgure 2: Model close up in black Atomic hoodie. Ryan Leech. 09.04.16. (photograph) Figure 3: Model shorts and leg detail close up. Ryan Leech. 11.04.16. (photograph) Figure 4: Black Atomic hoodie back view. Ryan Leech. 18.04.16. (photograph) Figure 5: Hanging clothing on modern rail. Ryan Leech. 19.03.16. (photograph) Figure 6: Layout of production equipment. Kasper Plougmand. 07.03.16. (photograph) Figure 7: Phone, watch, glasses and coffee, all the essentials. Ryan Leech. 29.03.16. (photograph) Figure 8: Wool and scissors against the wall. Aimy Lelux + Emily Butcher. 19.04.16. (photograph) Figure 9: Swedish cabinet showcasing Inspected shades. Ryan Leech. 27.04.16. (photograph) Figure 10: Blue skies and Porsche road tripping in California. Ryan Leech. 13.04.16 (photograph) Figure 11: Creative Directors portrait in Swedish home. Ryan Leech. 21.03.16. (photograph)
Fig 3.
Industry Forecast.
For this 10-week placement unit, I joined a small, independent brand as there one and only design intern. Inspected is an organic and self-funded company based in Bournemouth created in 2011 from a bedroom by two friends. Starting as a record label to provide a diverse platform for musicians and fans to connect which then developed into the fashion sector with the idea of keeping things fun, interesting and accessible to all. 5 years in and the brand has made multiple collections consisting of t-shirts, hoodies, jogging bottoms, bomber jackets as well as a large range of accessories such as hats, phone cases, wallets and sunglasses. Due to having such a strong and consistent connection with their niche market Inspected has been able to remain true to their philosophy. Producing garments solely from their own inspirations of ‘travel, inspire, create, repeat’ designing shapes and silhouettes that work for their customer as well as producing their own prints without relaying on trends and forecasts unlike a large number of bigger companies. As I said Inspected sits within the small, independent sector of the industry and operates in a very close and personal way with a ‘who you know not what you know’ style. If I were to describe the team, I would say that they are a group of young creative people moulding what they love into a living, all under the age of 30 and learning as Inspected goes through each year of business. Functioning with a select, talented few ranging from artists, graphic designers, and photographers to designers that are dotted all over the world. Meaning that communication is key to the company with numerous Skype meetings, phone calls and online file sharing each day, rather than having every member of the team within the space of one studio.
However, the studio space that the company does have is the hub of the brand, it’s the space that each part of the company operates from, from designing, sampling, order dispatching to customer services, ran mainly by one person, under one roof, but this works for Inspected. Through observations I’ve seen how relaxed and outgoing the company is and functions as one big family. All-working hard to achieve the best for the brand but without any feeling of pressure, which brought me confidence when joining the process meaning I was not afraid to express and share my ideas. Currently the Inspected collections are sold exclusively online at mid high street prices ranging from £8 to £80 through their website with an exception of a Boxpark pop store every couple years. This is not planned to change anytime soon as the brand does not wish to sell through concession and will continue to use social media as their main platform to market garments and reach new and old customers. However there are some developments that are being put in place for the next 5 years regarding the way the garments are sampled and produced.
Through interning at Inspected over the past year, I have been the first step of that change by collaborating and assisting Creative Director, Ryan Leech with the designing, fabric resourcing, sampling and decision making for more complex garments such as trousers and coats that will be introduced in future collections. Acting as part of the brand development where we will push the garments that are made, building a larger and fuller range, including more choice in both trousers and outerwear. Inspected are also aiming to change the way in which the garments are toiled, sampled and produced over the coming years, moving sampling from abroad to in house with the future goal of solely producing garments in the UK. This development is being put in place to achieve better quality in both the fabrication used and the construction of the garments but also to speed up production times and save shipping costs between the UK and factories abroad in the long run. Although the stages of production are planned to develop into a similar process and journey taken by larger companies, the way in which the collections are designed at the Inspected will stay consistent to the unique independent brand. Bigger brands both high street or luxury will mainly form ideas, create designs, source fabrics and design prints through the works of different teams of employees. However at Inspected just two team members work on each of these design stages, building concepts from their own experiences and travels, which then form and inspire prints, garments and accessories to curate a personal and well suited collection for their fans and customers.
Fig 5.
Fig 6.
Job Role Forecast.
Fig 7.
As I mentioned, 2016 has been the start of some developments for the company meaning that the design role I have taken on for my placement is an important part of the wider mechanism. Working as the first and only person in house that specialises in how the garments are designed, pattern cut and sampled means that a large amount of work and knowledge is laid upon my shoulders. The jobs that I have taken on fit in at the middle of building a collection, essentially developing the 2D designs into a perfected, finalised 3D toile ready to be sent off to be mass produced. In the near to mid future I feel that the jobs within my role will stay the same but the amount of people in which work through this process will change, moving more into the workings of larger companies by having teams of a people that will complete each stage in a production line style. Each day was different at Inspected and every time I entered the studio a different task was ready for me to complete. Unlike many interns I didn’t just have one or two jobs to finish, I work through all of the design and production processes on my own. Refining designs, producing technical drawings, developing patterns and constructing toiles were a number of tasks worked on through the weeks while being in continuous discussion with my supervisor, reviewing each section when moving through the development of each garment.
I found that I worked in a similar way to at University, using traditional hand methods such as sketching, pattern cutting and constructing garments as well as using technology programmes to build technical drawings and mood boards such as Photoshop, Illustrator and InDesign. From working in this way my skills and understanding were broaden through the process of trail and error which allowed me to evaluate which roles interested me the most providing information that I will take forward in my practice. My time at Inspected reinforced my passion for pattern cutting and I have found myself far more interested in producing and correcting patterns by hand forming skills that will benefit me in my specialism of the Modaris software when returning to university. Inspected is different to many fashion brands for two different reasons, one being the number of employees present in the studio and also the background and philosophy of the brand. Both of which are elements that allowed me to experience roles that many couldn’t in one place. Due to this I was able to observe each and every task for both the fashion and music sector completed by my supervisor and Creative Director Ryan Leech. From travelling for business trips, evaluating and ordering samples, communicating with suppliers, graphic designers and artists, arranging music artwork, editing social media posts to packing orders, completing business projections and standing as the companies customer service section. From seeing this diverse range of tasks and having the availability to question as I observed, I have learnt a lot about how a small business is run and have understood the workings of an independent fashion brand for both the creative and business side.
Fig 8.
My ideas and practices have been enhanced through the creative process of the garments I have worked on. I now have a more in-depth knowledge of hand flat pattern cutting especially when adjusting and altering patterns to achieve the best fit and shape. This improvement has allowing me to form successful patterns that have became final toiles which will be sent to Inspected’s factories for production.
The experience of completing an internship with a small brand has influenced my decision for my future career choice, Inspected showed me what aspects of fashion design I really enjoy and it gave me the knowledge of how independent companies run. However, I still have the aspiration to work for a larger company with opportunities to specialise in the Modaris system, pattern cutting using the Lectra software for example COS or H and M.
Working through the toiling stage allowed me to gain skills of constructing small garment details such as side trouser pockets, a range of patched pockets and a variety of different trouser waistbands, all of which I would be able to include in my future work. All of these developments have made me more confident in my practice and I have come to realise how much I know and understand within the creative process, which assured me that I would be able to try new skills and push me to develop garments further.
One aspect of my future career choice that has changed over the past 10 weeks is the want to travel with work and hold a job abroad. I have seen my supervisor, Ryan Leech travel to and from Europe and America for business and been able to meet some of the talented people he has met along the way and I feel working abroad would be a great opportunity to connect with different people and experience a number cultures and lifestyle, something very important to people in an creative industry.
From completing this work placement and working closely with my supervisor, I feel have evolved in my professional practice, my confidence has grown and I feel far more able to work on a brief, research ideas, build concepts and then present my thoughts to a number of colleagues. Through this communication I have come to understand how the industry is run and how Inspected’s collections are built from the designing, sampling, marketing and selling, all of which hold elements that I will help me to target my future work. When approaching the final year of my fashion degree, I will think back to my time interning at Inspected and really evaluate my muse, thinking about whom I am designing for, how they will wear the garments and what their lifestyle is, creating a strong idea of a consumer similar to the way the small brand understands their customers and their needs. Which leads me to how I will focus on the details of the garments I design carefully thinking about the shape, fit and small construction details such as stitching, pockets and finishes all of which I have learnt are highly important in the menswear industry.
Personal Forecast.
Fig 9.
Thinking back over my time at Inspected and looking through this analysis of my internship, I have come up with a few points to conclude this report, both positive and negative. Firstly, I feel that I have become more passionate about my practice and feel more motivated than ever, feeling ready to enter my final year and the working industry. I’ve had the opportunity to meet some amazingly talented people, building relationships with photographers, artists and graphic designers from all over the world. However, my time at Inspected was sometimes difficult due to the lack of production knowledge my supervisor, as the company had never produced garments in house before. Therefore it was tricky to get my hands on equipment I needed quickly and any problems I had, I had to try and solve through my own trial and error. However, this factor allowed me to be dependent and push myself to assess, adjust and find solutions of any problems that came about. Inspected treated me as one of their employees, I was given many different tasks to complete and I feel that a lot of trust was put in me which made me very comfortable with the brand and look forward to working on future projects.
Fig 10.
Interview with Ryan Leech: Creative Director. Fig 11.
Bibliography For Report. #INSPECTED LAUNCH PARTY (2014) Available at: http://www.boxpark.co.uk/event/inspectedlaunchparty/ (Accessed: 14 April 2016). Inspected (@inspecteduk) • Instagram photos and videos (no date) Available at: https://www.instagram.com/inspecteduk/ (Accessed: 12 April 2016). Ltd, I. (2016a) About inspected. Available at: https://inspected.co.uk/collections/all (Accessed: 12 April 2016). Ltd, I. (2016b) About inspected. Available at: https://inspected.co.uk/pages/artists (Accessed: 10 April 2016). Taylor (2014) Inspected record & clothing label joins BOXPARK – 23rd June. Available at: http://www.theriotclub.com/blog/random/inspected-record-clothing-label-joins-boxpark-23rd-june (Accessed: 14 April 2016). Written and Inwood, S. (2016) About inspected. Available at: https://inspected.co.uk/blogs/news (Accessed: 12 April 2016). Written and Newson, J. (2015) Behind the scenes: How we create our collections. Available at: https:// inspected.co.uk/blogs/news/63289219-behind-the-scenes-how-we-create-our-collections (Accessed: 12 April 2016). (No Date) Available at: https://twitter.com/inspected (Accessed: 12 April 2016). Citations, Quotes & Annotations #INSPECTED LAUNCH PARTY (2014) Available at: http://www.boxpark.co.uk/event/inspectedlaunchparty/ (Accessed: 14 April 2016). (#INSPECTED LAUNCH PARTY, 2014) Inspected (@inspecteduk) • Instagram photos and videos (no date) Available at: https://www.instagram.com/inspecteduk/ (Accessed: 12 April 2016). (Inspected (@inspecteduk) • Instagram photos and videos, no date) Ltd, I. (2016a) About inspected. Available at: https://inspected.co.uk/collections/all (Accessed: 12 April 2016). (Ltd, 2016a) Ltd, I. (2016b) About inspected. Available at: https://inspected.co.uk/pages/artists (Accessed: 10 April 2016). (Ltd, 2016b) Taylor (2014) Inspected record & clothing label joins BOXPARK – 23rd June. Available at: http://www.theriotclub.com/blog/random/inspected-record-clothing-label-joins-boxpark-23rd-june (Accessed: 14 April 2016). (Taylor, 2014) Written and Inwood, S. (2016) About inspected. Available at: https://inspected.co.uk/blogs/news (Accessed: 12 April 2016). (Written and Inwood, 2016) Written and Newson, J. (2015) Behind the scenes: How we create our collections. Available at: https:// inspected.co.uk/blogs/news/63289219-behind-the-scenes-how-we-create-our-collections (Accessed: 12 April 2016). (Written and Newson, 2015) (No Date) Available at: https://twitter.com/inspected (Accessed: 12 April 2016).
Presentation Plan. Ba Fashion
Industrial Placement
Presentation To Tutors/Peers.
Talking Points.
Images/Links/Refs.
Timings.
Inspected- Introduction.
Power point with images, quotes and videos from Inspected to give an insight to the company. How the brand was made? Who’s behind the company? Who’s the niche consumer? What do they produce? How do they sell?
2 mins.
Continuing on the introduction point, explain how this background makes the company different to other fashion brands. Show images of their social media and explain the importance of it to the brand. Touch on how I was able to do more tasks at Inspected than I would at a larger company.
2 mins.
Show model images of pervious collections and give information about key details, materials and prints. Explain how the brand wants to develop and talk about trouser and coat development as well as shirts, shoes and more accessories. Give ideas of future concepts in the philosophy of ‘travel.inspire.create.repeat.’
3 mins.
Give examples of the tasks I completed and put forward how I worked through the whole design process on my own. Talk about the designing process, sourcing fabric and producing toiles ready for production. Explain how me interning in house for the company is the first step to the future plans. Touch on how my involved with the brand will carry on.
3 mins.
Talk about what this internship has allowed me to do and what skills it has given me. Give examples of both professional practice skills and skills within the design and production sector. Show images of my work area; lay flat of equipment and what I produced.
3 mins.
Company Background: how the company is run and how is it different to other fashion brands.
Pervious Collections and what’s in store for the next 5 years?
My role and where I fitted into the wider mechanism and the future plans.
Personal Forecast and conclusion.
Q&A
Touch on conclusion of two good points and one bad. How well I fitted in, my confidence grown but how it was tricky sometimes due to supervisor’s non-fashion background. Thank everyone for listening and welcome at questions. Have any facts or other information prepared about Inspected and the team. Also carry my written report and interview to look back on if need.
2 mins.
ARTS UNIVERSITY BOURNEMOUTH Learning Agreement. Name: Emily Butcher. Course: BA Fashion. Level: 5. Unit: Design Enterprise and Innovation. Unit Code: FSC556. Credit points: 40. Study hours: 400. Tutor(s): Karen Ryan. Synopsis of study: For this Design Enterprise and Innovation unit, I have chosen to undertake a 10week work placement in the menswear sector of the industry. I hope that this opportunity will give me an insight of the roles and ways of working within a company as well as broadening my contacts and knowledge. My placement will be with local menswear company Inspected, a fashion brand with a strong philosophy and background inspired by their niche audience and connection to travel, music and lifestyle. My role within the Inspected team sits within the design and garment construction sector. During my 10 weeks with the company, I will be working closely with the Creative Director to develop and create garments for the winter collection. This will include researching for the collection, looking into imagery and trends, creating mood boards and sourcing fabrics as well as designing the garments. Following that I will be pattern cutting for the selected garments as well as toiling them and sampling any finishes and details. Throughout these stages I will be in continuous discussion with my supervisor, reviewing the products to produce the best and most fitting garments for the company. Market strategy and building ideas on how the collection will be shot and visually represented will also come into my role as the collection comes together. All of these tasks hold knowledge and skills that I have already gained through my education however my role within this placement will expand those skills and give me experience of working within a design team. It will also give me an insight of how a fashion brand is ran, expanding my knowledge of collections available within the menswear sector, something that may inform the direction of my own personal work. I feel that I will gain a large amount of knowledge and information from Inspected due to the size of the company. I’m working in such a small team therefore I’m able to be part of each part of the design process, giving me the chance to be fully involved in the company. For this unit my assessment piece will be in the form of a 2000 word written report, Learning Agreement Page 1 of 3
that will critically evaluate and analyse the research I will gather throughout my work placement. Due to the nature of Inspected and the size of the company, I will direct my report into a specialised angle of the brand. Along with completing interviews, industry forecasts, job role forecasts as well as a personal forecast evaluating my work for the brand. I will use my written report to plan and craft a presentation, communicating my unique experiences from being on placement. An on going task that I will be assessed on will be a weekly blog where I will document each task I complete as well as evidencing any primary research, acting as an aide memoir for my journey. Contact: Ryan Leech Inspected UK Unit 1 Elizabeth House 40 Lagland Street BH15 1QG 01202 330080 rl@inspected.co.uk Aims: A1
To further develop the creative, intellectual and practical applications of specialist study to the appropriate level.
A2
To demonstrate an understanding of the historical, cultural, professional and contextual frameworks, which inform your work.
A3
To introduce you to the career and future study possibilities relevant to your subject interest through the promotion of self-evaluation and review as an essential part of your personal and professional development.
Learning Outcomes: On completion of this unit you will be able to: LO1 Develop existing skills and acquire new competences evidenced through a comprehensive body of work that will enable you to assume significant responsibility within organisations. LO2 Demonstrate the ability to apply underlying concepts and principles in relation to your specialist practice. LO3 Demonstrate the qualities and transferable skills necessary for employment requiring the exercise of personal responsibility and decision-making. Assessment Components:
Learning Agreement Page 1 of 2
Body of work to be identified through and in the negotiated Learning Agreement which will include a 2000 word report plus weekly blog. This may take the form of an online journal (utilising appropriate formats and demonstrating a range of skills which should include developmental work and practical project outcomes one of which should be a professional CV). (Tutor assessed) 100% Reference:
2016, C.H. (2016) Cloth house. Available at: https://www.clothhouse.com (Accessed: 10 March 2016). Emily Butcher (ohemilymay) (no date) Available at: https://uk.pinterest.com/ohemilymay/inspected-‐moodboards/ (Accessed: 10 March 2016). Inspected (@inspecteduk) • Instagram photos and videos (no date) Available at: https://www.instagram.com/inspecteduk/ (Accessed: 10 March 2016). Jonty pant army green (no date) Available at: https://www.iloveugly.co.uk/pants/jonty-‐ pants/jonty-‐pant-‐army-‐green.html (Accessed: 10 March 2016). Ltd, I. (2016) About inspected. Available at: https://inspected.co.uk (Accessed: 10 March 2016). Tumblr is so easy to use that it’s hard to explain (no date) Available at: https://www.tumblr.com/new/blog (Accessed: 10 March 2016). User Login | WGSN | creating tomorrow (no date) Available at: http://www.wgsn.com/en/login/?r=%2Fhome%2F (Accessed: 10 March 2016). patrick, daniel (2016) Daniel patrick // designer clothing & accessories. Available at: http://shop.danielpatrick.net (Accessed: 10 March 2016).
Action plan/time plan:
Week 1: Design Discussions + Fabric Sourcing. Week 2: Producing Technical Flats + Pattern Cutting for Trousers. Week 3: Continuing with Pattern Cutting. Week 4: Start toiling process. Week 5: Continue toiling garments + Produce samples for finishes. Week 6: Review of toiles and fit reports. Week 7: Production of final toile in chosen fabric. Week 8: Final Review of the products + Changing and adjusting anything. Week 9: Market Strategy for Winter Collection. Week 10: Develop Ideas for photo shoots and marketing for the garments. Learning Agreement Page 1 of 2