Gender Fluidity
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Gender Fluidity By Emily Kemp
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Word Count: 2634 I confirm that this work has gained ethical approval and that I have faithfully observed the terms of approval in the conduct of this project. Signed...................................................
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Date......................................
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‘The notions of guy and girl are outdated thanks to younger generation’s celebration of individuality’ (Beauty Buzz, 2016)
Genders within marketing have always been shown as very distinctive characters with vast differences. Commonly showcasing men as strong, dashing beings whereas women were seen as more innocent or sexualized. However, particularly in very recent years the definition of genders are being less stereotyped and the lines between them are crossing and blurring in a number of ways which is having a huge impact within fashion marketing. Key drivers have been within music, fashion and beauty but has been pushed through social media, with the help of a number of public figures, to begin a phenomenal cultural shift, particularly with the younger generation, changing people’s mentalities towards gender and what defines them.
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Health& Beauty Personal Care
Hair
(Beauty Buzz, 2016)
“It is difficult to define gender by body language, by hair style or by attitude... Long hair? Cropped hair? Who can tell? Who cares?” (Vogue Italia, January 2016)
Women have always been eminently dominant in the markets for personal care and beauty however men have had an increasing interest in their health and appearance. In fact, the men’s personal care market was expected to reach $4.4bn in 2016 (Mintel, 2016). Prior to this, online men’s retailer, MrPorter.com reported a 300% increase in men’s beauty and grooming in 2015 (Beauty Buzz, 2016). Years ago males may have been mocked for taking such pride or going to such lengths to maintain or improve their appearance yet it is now something which is considered fairly normal. Due to this, within fashion campaigns, men can be presented with a very clean cut look without it being such a statement but highly relatable to the average man.
Stereotypes among hair are still present yet much less significant to the younger generations. Older generations may maintain common styles between genders however with more young males adopting longer hair it’s gradually being seen less as an act of rebellion but rather fashionable. Similarly the buzz cut among women has a changing perception from a punk look to somewhat chic and elegant. Agyness Deyn [Fig.3] is a classic example of a women rocking a ‘male’ hair style who’s been used countless times within fashion marketing for a number of years.
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[Fig.3]
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Makeup Increasing interest of appearance among young males has also lead to an increase in those using makeup. Beauty brands have recognized this and have began making a number of marketing decisions to appeal to this new segment. Sephora have teamed up with Patrick Starr to launch a new nail polish and Mac have been in collaboration with Peter and Harry Brant to create a new range including neutral shadows, concealers, lip stains and contour brushes.
(Beauty Buzz, 2016)
“Our mantra is All Ages, All Races, All Sexes� (Mac Cosmetics global president)
Brands have determined that mainstream millennials want inclusivity. They’re using minimalistic packaging to avert the sense of targeting a gender in particular and showcase both genders equally among advertisements. Brands are even making efforts to further these changing attitudes themselves. Marc Jacobs launched an online campaign, #MalePolish, calling for men to post photos of themselves wearing nail polish. Beauty brands are responding to the blurring perception of genders by making marketing decisions in terms of their products, advertisement and actions on social media. Some fashion brands who also offer makeup are quickly noticing this and adopting a similar strategy. In terms of hair and beauty, much more is considered acceptable between men and women giving brands a greater range of choice of how to present their models in advertisements whilst remaining relatable to their audience.
[Fig.4]
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[Fig.5]
Fragrance Unisex fragrances are also becoming increasingly popular with the likes of Hema Today I Feel Strong and Calvin Klein’s ck2. CK used minimalist packaging for their fragrance bottle yet their advertising campaign [Fig.5] gives a visual representation of the aim towards appealing to both sexes by splitting the background in the stereotypical pink and blue gender signifiers. A Mintel report showed that from 2014-2015 UK retail value sales of unisex fragrances saw an increase of 58.7% whereas men’s and women’s saw a decline of 3-4% each (2016). Within this market the demand for unisex products is growing substantially giving indication of the changing mentalities towards gender and what fits with them.
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Music
Celebrities are seen as aspirational figures to many and are therefore commonly seen as style icons. The younger generation are especially influenced by them due to their high presence on social media. This allows celebrities to make quite a statement with their clothing choices and possibly encourage change. Young Thug has been described as ‘not just talented, he stands for something fresh’. His style spanning completely across the typical men’s to women’s clothing; leopard dresses and miniskirts to pleather baby tees and hoodies (Beauty Buzz, 2016). Similarly, Louis Vuitton have used Jaden Smith within their advertising [Fig.7], placing him in a women’s skirt next to three females. This advert does not demasculinize the young male in any sense, he appears very comfortable and confident wearing these clothes, not at all out of place. The use of monotone clothing helps give this impression as it offers a sense of consistency throughout the models. In the image the women also strike rather unfeminine poses; spreading their legs apart and either sprawling their arms around or seemingly giving a powerful punch. This creates a visual array of mixing gender stereotypes in different ways both empowering women, by portraying that they can be just as strong as men, and making it acceptable for males to wear typically feminine clothing.
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[Fig.7]
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Androgynous Models [Fig.8]
Agyness Deyn Deyn has debatably single handedly changed the dynamic for women, being seen as beautiful even with her ‘boyish looks’, allowing others who also possess features not typically matching their sex to follow suit. “For a while in 2007, this
girl’s mug was inescapable.” (Sauers, 2009)
Since then, in 2011, James Franco took a truly breathe-taking shoot for Elle; presenting Deyn in stereotypical menswear, capturing her true timeless beauty by completely accepting and celebrating her unique look. Despite Deyn previously appearing in Elle this was an iconic edition as it was one of the first to fully appreciate and showcase her male essence. The shoot feels as though it has been brought back to basics using simplistic clothing, objects and surroundings making details seem unimportant; determining a sex being just one of these details. The lack of colour used relating to of lack of gender perceived. Nothing else seems to matter, the meaning of the photos is purely to convey beauty and the feeling of being comfortable in your own skin. Deyn later went on to move more into the music industry appearing in adverts for Uniqulo, spanning the acceptance of androgynous models into new areas. Deyn worked so successfully for a range of brands and industries as she could radiate either innocence and naivety or controversially establish a strong sense of power and sexuality due to her unique aesthetic.
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[Fig.9]
‘Androgynous’ Partly male and partly female in appearance; of indeterminate sex
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“Individuality and androgyny are certainly not a new thing in fashion, but the trend has swung back around due to larger gender conversation.” (Alastair McKinn, Fashion Director of i-D)
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Andrej Pejic and Jana Knauerova This edition presented a true ‘identity crisis’ (Ascano, 2010) as 2 androgynous models were presented to appear almost as identical twins; a female with male-like characteristics and a male with a feminine essence. When paired together in a single shot defining a sex at all is almost indeterminable. To be androgynous was, and still today is, a term not commonly used or even understood to most yet this shoot unquestionably conveys its true meaning. Not only is it exploring the term, developing more of a common ground between genders in the average mind, but shows true acceptance as it explores the opportunities and ways of expressing each of the model’s own unique beauty.
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Toni and Niklas Garrn A similar example; actual blood related siblings Toni and Niklas Garrn. Tush magazine shot the two together for their front cover wishing for readers to try to determine which was which, proving to the pubic that set genders really can obtain features not correlating to it and that this is something that should be celebrated rather than mocked. In 2016, the pair brought out their own unisex clothing range [Fig.13] in collaboration, with German-based denim label Closed, celebrating their own similarities and those commonly present between genders.
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[Fig.13]
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[Fig.14]
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Transgender Andreja Pejic The use of androgynous models has lead to greater acceptance of transgender models. Andreja Pejic is one of the most renowned figures for this beginning her career as an androgynous male, as ‘Andrej’ Pejic, then completing her transformation in 2013. In 2011, as a male, he was even used in an advert
promoting a push up bra [Fig.15] which helped publicize the acceptance for males to wear what typically should be worn by a female. Within the advert, Hema presented Andrej looking very feminine, in 2 different dresses, using direct eye contact to convey confidence and a neutral facial expression to show strength.
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[Fig.16]
In recent years, Caitlyn Jenner has had a monumental effect being excessively present within the media sharing her story with the masses. This had such an effect as, although the public were already very much aware of the concept of being transgender, most have not experienced it themselves or even know someone who has. As a celebrity Bruce Jenner was already abundantly recognized by the public. Where others kept their story very private Caitlyn took a complete different take on it, almost showing off her transformation, emitting her true sense of happiness for all to see. While some may still disagree with the process, Caitlyn shared how it transformed her life making her much more comfortable and content within herself. Through this also giving strength to others wishing to undertake the same transition. Caitlyn being used as the front cover of Vanity Fair shows how this is being addressed within fashion, following societies acceptance by increasing the appearance of transgender models.
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[Fig.17]
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Pantone Colour of the year 22 22
[Fig.18]
For the first time, in 2016, Pantone chose 2 colours for their colour of the year; Serenity and Rose Quartz. Blue and pink typically differentiating boys from girls, Pantone made this selection as an acknowledgment to the social movement towards gender equality and fluidity. Pantone describes this combination as ‘a soothing sense of
order and peace’, ‘an inherent balance between a warmer embracing rose tone and the cooler tranquil blue’ (2016). In some
sense, this also reflects the concept of gender fluidity; merging together in perfect harmony to create a broad spectrum rather than remaining as 2 simplistic colours.
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[Fig.19]
Fashion
“No-gender has been simmering along the sidelines of mainstream for decades...recently fortified reality – both high street and high end.” (Beauty Buzz, 2016) Agender / Unisex / Gender Neural In terms of product; agender, gender neutral and unisex lines have been emerging more frequently. In many ways brands are now unafraid to think outside the box in designing outfits that bring a whole new style to consumers who desire to try something different however many of these unisex lines still only provide very minimalistic, baggy clothing to which many argue isn’t new at all. Zara is considered ‘the most influential
affordable fashion brand in the world’
(Sowray, 2016). As of March 2016, their
ungendered range became available both online and in 29 stores. Moving away from restrictive clothing categories, the range includes many basic pieces modelled by a male and female to show the different fit. Zara is not the only brand currently offering such a range however it’s considered that with them taking this action they will have a heavy influence on other brands who will soon follow suit.
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‘The move demonstrates how mainstream brands are gradually moving away from rigid gender categorization when it comes to clothing, which aims to appeal to the teen demographic in particular’ (Pendrill, 2016)
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‘Agender is not a trend but a changing mindset responding to a cultural shift.’ (Beauty Buzz, 2016)
In- Store Agender concepts are now additionally being translated into in store experiences. As of 2015 Selfridges placed men’s and women’s wear alongside each other as to present ‘a celebration of fashion without definition’ (Mintel, 2016). The idea being that individuals could easily merge and combine pieces from both men’s and women’s collections or continue to select from gender specifics, Selfridges has aimed to appeal to all individuals based on their personal preferences without any judgement.
Fashion Shows ‘Over the last year at least 12 important brands have announced to combine their men’s and women’s shows.’ (Beauty Buzz, 2016)
What have always been very separate events are now being merged together to one phenomenal show appealing to both the public, following the social move towards gender fluidity, but also to the brands on a financial level.
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Childrenswear Childrenswear is an area which has particularly been under scrutiny for gender biased designs; M&S and Gap being just two that have faced ridicule. This stems from a change in the demand from parents, 23% female shoppers would like to see more gender neutral clothing sold at their preferred childrenswear retailer, the demand of which peaks among parents of under 6’s (Mintel, 2016). Target has addressed this by completely axing their gender-specific labels for children’s clothing giving children the feeling that they can wear whatever they like without feeling judged or out of place. Gardner and the Gang is a new childrenswear brand who heavily use cool prints in their clothing. They recently collaborated with, actress and model, Jaime King to create a gender neutral line [Fig.21]. They feel individuals should wear what they please in order to feel comfortable. The clothing shown here is stereotypically very girly yet is advertised on two young boys both who still appear genuinely elated. The message presented, as printed on the sweater and represented by the embrace, is ‘love’; regardless of looks or clothing choices.
[Fig.21]
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Social Media [Fig.22]
James Charles
[Fig.21] [Fig.24]
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[Fig.23]
Manny Gutierrz
Millennials and Gen Z are rejecting gender conformity. As these generations have been the first to grow up with social media it has had a substantial impact on them by allowing individuals to share their views and aspects of their life, in a way which previously wouldn’t have been possible, and generate huge followings. Beauty bloggers such as James Charles, Manny Gutierrz and Jordan Liberty have helped normalize the zero gender beauty trend via their vlogging channels. For example, #MakeupIsGenderless, an online movement initiated by Jake-Jamie, went viral capturing the attention of millions and encouraging men to embrace makeup if they desire to. #CastMeMarc has also been reintroduced, this time in search for beauty bloggers, showing the importance online influences and social media now has. Unknown individuals can make a name for themselves via an online presence and acquire huge followings yet simultaneously big brands such as Marc Jacobs recognizes the impact these platforms can have therefore using them themselves.
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Conclusion Gender fluidity is currently a huge social movement, altering attitudes towards what defines a gender and what is considered acceptable for each sex. Modifications have already been seen within personal care, fragrance and music, being pushed forward by influential figures such as Jaden Smith, Agyness Deyn, Andreja Pejic and Caitlyn Jenner along with the high usage and awareness created by social media such as the influence of male beauty bloggers and well known brands also choosing to use it. The key, particularly with the younger generations, is comfort. Comfort of course being highly subjective; whether it’s women adopting an easily manageable cropped hair style and baggy clothing or men taking greater pride in their appearance in order to feel comfortable in the way they look, using many beauty and makeup products and opting for more stereotypically women’s clothing; it’s all a personal choice all of which should be accepted. This is being seen within fashion marketing as greater ranges of looks are
being presented in both the models and clothing presented. Women no longer have to look overly girly and innocent nor is it necessary for men to appear fierce. Gender fluidity is being shown in terms of: • Products - Using minimalistic packaging and more unisex ranges being designed • In-store designs - Placing men’s and women’s clothing side by side to create a new experience allowing customers to celebrate fashion in a new way picking styles as they please • Model selction – Using more androgynous and transgender models • Clothing and model pairing - placing ‘women’s’ clothing on men and vice versa The concept of men and women are no longer such distinct separate figures but rather a spectrum, crossing over in a number of ways, making fashion choices even more of an individual choice than ever before. It is this push for individuality and uniqueness which is changing the dynamic for fashion marketing.
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List Of • [Fig.1] RAD by Rad Hourani Spring 2012 Ready-To-Wear, (2011) Rad Hourani, Available at: http://www.fashionbubbles.com/tag/moda-agenera/ [Accessed 1 March 2017]. • [Fig.2] Androgynous Fashion, (2015) Accessed via Blog Post: Boone, A. (2015) Is Unisex Fashion Our Future? Available at: http://www.thistailoredlife.com/blog/2015/3/22/is-unisex-fashion-our-future [Accessed 23 February 2017]. • [Fig.3] Agyness Deyn, (2011) James Franco for Elle July 2011, Available at: http://blog.lulus. com/fashion/james-franco-shoots-agyness-deyn-for-elle-july-2011/ [Accessed 21 January 2017]. • [Fig.4] James Charles, (2016) Covergirl, Available at: http://www.sheknows.com/entertainment/slideshow/7595/james-charles-covergirl-first-male-model/introducing-james-charles [Accessed 4 February 2017]. • [Fig.5] Calvin Klein ck2 Eau De Toilette Advert, (2016) Calvin Klein, Available at : https:// www.youtube.com/watch?v=KeC9NHxA0PA [Accessed 5 February 2017]. • [Fig.6] Jaden Smith, (2016) Vogue Korea February 2016, Accessed via: Tendril, K. (2016): The Vogue Korea February 2016 Issue Challenges Gender Norms, Available at: http://www.trendhunter.com/trends/vogue-korea-february-2016 [Accessed 23 January 2017]. • [Fig.7] Jaden Smith For Louis Vuitton, (2016) Steff Yotka for Louis Vuitton Spring 2016, Available at: http://www.vogue.com/article/jaden-smith-louis-vuitton-campaign [Accessed 23 January 2017]. • [Fig.8] Agyness Deyn (2011) Hedi Slimane for Vogue China 2016, Available at: http://tinypic. com/view.php?pic=i3xiq1&s=5#.WJdnCBicbLY [Accessed 5 February 2017]. • [Fig.9] Angyness Deyn 3 images, (2011) James Franco for Elle July 2011, Available at: http:// tinypic.com/view.php?pic=i3xiq1&s=5#.WJdnCBicbLY [Accessed 5 February 2017]. • [Fig.10] Andrej Pejic on Gender Fluidity, (2010) Matthew Brookes for Vogue Turkey November 2010, Available at: http://www.fashiongonerogue.com/andrej-pejic-jana-vogue-turkey-november-2010-matthew-brookes/ [Accessed 27 February 2017]. • [Fig.11] Andrej Pejic and Jana Knauerova on Gender Fluidity, (2010) Matthew Brookes for Vogue Turkey November 2010, Available at: http://www.fashiongonerogue.com/andrej-pejicjana-vogue-turkey-november-2010-matthew-brookes/ [Accessed 30 January 2017]. • [Fig.12] Toni and Niklas Garrn, (2009) Tush #2 Front Cover, Accessed via: mediterranean, (May 7, 2009 Updated: Jun 21 2011) Available at: http://www.trendhunter.com/trends/ tush-magazine-androgynous [Accessed 23 January 2017]. • [Fig.13] Toni & Niklas Garrn Collection, (2016) Closed.com, Available at: https://fr.closed. com/gallery/eql/ [Accessed 27 February 2017].
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Illustrations • [Fig.14] Adrej Pejic in ‘Hombre o Mujer?’ editorial for the Spanish magazine El Pais S Moda, (2011) Accessed via: Vong, K. (2011) The Andrej Pejic ‘Hombre o Mujer?’ Editorial Transcends the Sexes, Available at: http://www.trendhunter.com/trends/andrej-pejic-hombre-o-mujer [Accessed 13 February]. • [Fig.15] Andrej Pejic for HEMA, (2011) Hema, Accessed via: paulien, (2015) Available at: https://paulienemily.com/2015/02/02/the-blur-of-gender/ [Accessed 21 January 2017] • [Fig.16] Caitlyn Jenner for Vanity Fair (2015) Annie Leibovitz, Available at: http://www.vanityfair.com/hollywood/2015/06/caitlyn-jenner-photos-interview-buzz-bissinger [Accessed 27 January 2017]. • [Fig.17] Caitlyn Jenner, (2016) Available at: http://time.com/collection-post/4301820/caitlyn-jenner-2016-time-100/ [Accessed 1 March 2017]. • [Fig.18] Pantone’s Gender Blurring Colours of the Year, (2015) Accessed via Blog post: Brownlee, J. (2015) Pantone’s “Gender-Blurring” Colors Of The Year Are . . . Pink And Blue!?, Available at: https://www.fastcodesign.com/3054163/pantones-gender-blurring-colors-of-the-yearare-pink-and-blue [Accessed 21 January 2017]. • [Fig.19] Zara Ungendered Collection, (2016) Zara, Accessed via: Guerrero, P. (2016) The Deal on Zara’s Genderless Clothing Line, Available at: http://vergecampus.com/2016/03/dealzaras-genderless-clothing-line/ [Accessed 16 February 2017]. • [Fig.20] Zara Ungendered Collection 2, (2016) Zara, Accessed via: Intalan, P. (2016) Zara Dips into Versatility through the Ungendered Collection, Available at: http://laurenceourac.com/ zara-dips-into-versatility-through-the-ungendered-collection/ [Accessed 16 February 2017]. • [Fig.21] Gardner and the Gang and Jaime King Gender Neutral Childrenswear, (2016) Gardner and the Gang, Accessed via: Wyers, A. (2016) Jaime King Will Be Launching a Gender Neutral Clothing Line, Available at: http://www.trendhunter.com/trends/gender-neutral-clothing [Accessed 21 January 2017]. • [Fig.22] James Charles, (2016) Accessed via: Omar, M (2016) Influencer James Charles Will Be Covergirl’s Newest Ambassador, Available at: http://www.trendhunter.com/trends/ brand-ambassador [Accessed 23 January 2017]. • [Fig.23] Manny Gutierrez, (2017) Accessed via: Niessen, R. (2017) Manny Gutierrez Will Be Maybelline’s First Male Beauty Representative, Available at: http://www.trendhunter.com/ trends/manny-gutierrez [Accessed 23 January 2017]. • [Fig.24] Tom Ford Lips & Boys Campaign, (2014) Tom Ford, Available at: http://www.stylevitae.com/tom-fords-lips-boys-lipstick-collection-is-all-about-the-men-in-his-life/ [Accessed 21 February 2017]. • [Fig.25] Acne Womenswear Campaign, (2015) Acne, Accessed via: Gray, C. (2015) Acne Casts Its Art Director’s Pre-Teen Son in This Womenswear Campaign, Available at: http://www. trendhunter.com/trends/genderblurring [Accessed 21 January 2017].
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