THE EDGE VOL. 14 ISSUE 1

THE EDGE VOL. 14, ISSUE 1 ELON, NC

BACK2BASICS. ROCK THE VOTE | THE BEAUTY BEHIND BRATZ ROOTS OF RAP | LET’S TALK ABOUT AAVE

S

letter from the editor

ince the invention of the 24-hour news cycle, we have been bombarded with content on a constant loop.

At times, it feels like a blessing to have the world at our fingertips. No question needs to go unanswered, and there’s no way to truly get lost.

There’s a sense of security in having centuries of information available to us in milliseconds.

For creatives, the downside to this wealth of access is that it feels like everything has been done before. Our ethos here at The Edge is to produce thought-provoking content about topics you already know, but from an angle you don’t.

As we were deciding on a print theme for this semester, we wanted to do something that felt different from our previous issues.

Back 2 Basics draws inspiration from the ‘90s and early 2000s. Selecting a time period allowed us to narrow down the focus of the issue, while still allowing our writers and creatives to explore a variety of topics. I am so proud of the content that has made it into this issue, and I am so proud of the team that made it possible.

I have had the privilege to oversee a team of brilliant individuals throughout the semester. The talent at this magazine never ceases to amaze me, and as I conclude my final semester at The Edge, I can’t help but reflect on how much of an impact it has had on me.

I began my time with The Edge as a sophomore Beauty & Wellness writer before becoming editor of that section in the fall of my junior year. For the past year, I have served as the Editor-in-Chief for an organization that continues to impress me with the passion and drive they bring to each Monday night meeting and beyond. I have been lucky enough to see the magazine from all angles and though it saddens me that this chapter is coming to an end, I cannot wait to see where The Edge goes next — it’s only going up from here.

I’d like to take a second to say a huge thank you to my wonderful Creative Director, Leila Wilhelm.

Nothing you see in the following pages would be possible without her creative vision and direction.

From start to finish, she has worked so hard to carefully craft and execute the visual design of this magazine.

As you flip through the pages of this print issue, I hope you see the joy and creativity that spans these spreads. Each member of this team has put their heart and soul into what you hold in your hands right now. Without taking up any more of your time, let’s get Back 2 Basics!

Anna Cave, Editor-in-Chief

6

14

1990

THE BEAUTY BEHIND BRATZ

A PHOTO SPREAD

16

THE REINVENTION OF NEW BALANCE

10

CLUELESS

24

NEW YORK, I LOVE YOU A VINTAGE TRAVEL GUIDE

20 G.O.A.T.

A PEAK INTO SNEAKER CULTURE

A LOOK AT THE FILM'S ICONIC COSTUMING

28

ROCK THE VOTE MTV & MUSIC'S POWER IN POLITICS

34

LET'S TALK ABOUT AAVE

40

THE TRUE COST OF STREETWEAR

44

THE ROOTS OF RAP

46

CHICANO MEANS POWER FASHION'S ROLE IN CHICANO EMPOWERMENT

52

THE MUSIC MOVEMENT

56

THE GRUNGE EFFECT

THE EDGE !"#$%&'#(')*#+, Anna Cave Creative Director Leila Wilhelm Assistant Design Chief Olivia Parks Director of Photography Laney Daniels Stylist Mel Jones Copy Chiefs Alejandra Gonzalez Emily Murrill Fashion Editor Hope Suire Assistant Editor Taylor Beach Writer Olivia Nevin Writer Hannah Parker Writer Lindsay Pearce Writer Madelyn Slattery Beauty & Wellness Editor Anna Grenier Assistant Editor Lydia Buckius Writer Amanda Cantale Writer Ella Kucera Writer Juliana Kuhno Writer Elizabeth Reucassel Writer Kennedy Smith Travel Editor Catie Mannato Assistant Editor Maggie Smith Writer Leah Dumaine Writer Kelley Gosk Writer Delaney Moore Writer Kate Wunderlich Features Editor Amy Ellison Writer Georgia Brucato Writer Caroline Pirwitz Writer Emma Ragaller Writer Genevieve Smith Lifestyle Editor Sarah Hennis Assistant Editor Ali Elliot Writer Leslie Aviles Mendoza Writer Margo David Writer Julia Johnson Writer Meg Walsh

Videography Director of Videography Sophia Gaeta Video Editor Kate Guthrie Video Editor Kate Salvatierra Social Media Social Media Director Maddy Phillips Social Media Designer Jenna Mangan Content Creator Ella O’Brien Social Media Assistants Amanda McGee, Lexi de la Sierra & Gia Sylvester Digital Media Podcast Director Meg Healy Podcast Host Sami Engel Analytics Directors Steven Mmari Analytics Director Sarah Gombos Analytics Assistant Robert White Analytics Assistant Zach Summer Layout Designers Kailey Casl Peter DeSantis Camille Duplechain Emma Mitchell Ashley Soderberg Gracie West Photographers Paige Alexander Brendan Antrosiglio Brynja Burton Grace Goggins Reese Williams

meet the staff favorite 90s inspired trend?

Liv: One of my favorite 90s trends that resurfaced is the infamous Princess Diana biker shorts & oversized sweatshirt outfit...so simple yet so chic.

Lydia: My favorite 90s-inspired trend is the Canadian Tuxedo.

Although I have never rocked this look, some of my favorite internet personalities, notably Eli Rallo, make it work — it’s just so fun and simple.

Hope: Slip dresses!! Wearing a slip dress is elegant yet effortless and a versatile option for your wardrobe!

Favorite throwback movie?

Anna: How to Lose a Guy in 10 Days. Andie Anderson is everything I want to be in life.

Laney: Clueless. All the outfits are beyond iconic.

Mel: Thelma & Louise.

Sarah: Dazed & Confused.

what look makes you feel like a badass?

Emily: My Doc Marten platform Chelsea Boot. I love the platform and feel powerful whenever I wear them.

Catie: Slicked back ponytail + red lip combo!

Alex: Any outfit involving all black... so classy yet badass.

what travel spot makes you feel like the main character?

Leila: London has my heart a million times over. Riding the tube solo with a good podcast always makes me feel like the main character.

Emily: St. John. I grew up there, so I feel in my element whenever I visit.

Anna: New York City… not to be that girl, but “abroad” changed me.

How can you not feel like the main character in a city that glitters?

199 PHOTO | 6

90s PHOTO | 7

PHOTO | 8

PHOTO | 9

MADELYN SLATTERY

“A subheading doesn’t really go with this article, Daddy.”

FASHION | 10

W

hat comes to mind when you think of the most iconic ‘90s movie ever created? The cult classic that you and your friends can quote daily? If you didn’t think “Clueless, duh,” then OMG, you are totally buggin’.

If you didn’t already know, Clueless is not an original movie plot. In the initial story, written by Jane Austen, we follow Emma Woodhouse, who has an unhealthy addiction to matchmaking. Cher Horowitz, the 1995 movie character version of Emma Woodhouse, bears tremendous similarities to the beloved Austen character and thankfully carries her same flare for meddling in the lives of others. We all love Cher Horowitz for her ditzy one-liners, impeccable taste in friends and power to get what she wants when she wants it. Cher not only expresses her passion through the influence she has on the lives around her, but through her fashion sense as well.

That said, the outfits in Clueless have tremendously impacted the cultural landscape of fashion. We’re not referring to the mass production of plaid skirts and jackets come Halloween, but rather the style in the real world. And believe it or not, that legacy developed on a tight production budget.

So, where did costume designer Mona May find these sweet-lookin’ handbags and jackets on a budget of approximately $200,000? The answer is through a combination of searching for rare finds, connections, and pleading for help from others.

May didn’t stray from taking risks and reaching out to designers. In the film’s Valley-Christmas house party, Cher prances around in a red Alaia mini-dress which was gifted to the costume department after a detailed letter from May, explaining how important good quality clothing was. Lo and behold, the designer fully agreed, especially considering the shoutout given to the designer in the film:

Cher: It’s an Alaia.

Mugger: An a whatta?

Cher: An Alaia. It’s like a totally important designer.

May wanted to go against the status quo. The defining style of the ‘90s was grunge, a messy combination of punk and heavy metal. May craved creating a world where that style didn’t dominate everyone— she wanted to position the characters in their own aesthetic world. May was able to steer a specific style of the ‘90s into something more diverse, not just full of grunge and grimace. May’s goal was to forge unreleased trends to impact fashion’s future, and that she did.

When watching the cult classic, you can easily spot outfits still famous today. I mean, Taylor Swift hit the nail on the head when she said ‘90s trends come back, and they come back with a vengeance. These styles have not only returned, but also planted their roots and stood their ground for decades.

So, how much do you know? Are you just totally clueless about the origins of these closet staples? As if!

Do you really think I wouldn’t know?

FASHION | 11

Basic White Tees are All That, and a Bag of Chips With the help of a few basic white tees, you will be a total Betty instead of a full-on Monet. Usually, this white tee would be layered with the help of a dainty tank top. The look will never go out of style, whether you are wearing a basic white tee alone or with another item.

Layers - Tank Tops, T-shirts, Long Sleeves, Oh My! Many characters in the film used white tees for layering. Cher layers a colored tank over a white tee, and Dionne pairs sweater vests over plain white t-shirts or sweaters over collared shirts. Layering is an opportunity to show off more items in your closet.

What's the 411 on Plaid?

Plaid is the classic pattern that makes the fashion depicted in the film iconic. The matching skirt and blazer paved the way for schoolgirl chic. Cher and Dionne walked so Serena and Blair could run. With plaid being such an eye-catching design, the matching sets radiate power, class and beauty all in one.

Mini Anything - No Duh! May did something right when she put powerful women in mini skirts. The red Alaia and white Calvin Klein dresses are simple yet beautiful. Cher does not use these dresses to attain her sexual desires, but as a young woman who is in control of her circumstances.

And what if she does eventually use the power of a mini skirt to get a certain someone’s attention? It’s Cher’s choice, and May uses the mini clothing to represent the more significant idea of self-empowerment.

FASHION | 12

Build Buns of Steel in a Unitard Whether you’re playing tennis in gym class or sitting at home surfing the crimson wave, a unitard is what you need. In the film, unitards are seen more as athleisure, with Cher and Tai’s Buns of Steel workout and the tennis lesson at school. The good thing about a unitard is its ability to be dressed up or dressed down. Throw on a hoodie or a blazer, or wear a long sleeve under it! Versatile pieces are what make the world go round.

The fashion of Clueless is a character in itself. May provided a foundation where the pieces take on their own lives and create a legacy that is difficult to beat. So please, for your sanity, pull up Clueless on your browser while shopping for these items. We promise you, this attire is as timeless as the movie itself. ■

Look Your Best in a Sweater Vest!

If you didn’t notice, hidden under the classic plaid matching sets of the film are sweater vests! Adding a sweater vest to a plain canvas outfit will make you happy and have you rollin’ with the homies.

Step Up Your Shoe Game with Loafers What’s the main thing we love here at The Edge? Versatility! Loafers are chic, comfortable and casual all in one.

The right pair of shoes can make or break your outfit.

FASHION | 13

y y t t u u a a e e B B d d e e n n h i i Th h T h e e B B

Z Z T T A A R R B B

ALI ELLIOTT | ASSISTANT LIFESTYLE EDITOR

T

wenty years ago, the world of dolls changed forever. As Bratz dolls were brought to store shelves across the world, children could suddenly choose from a variety of doll options, and this variety didn’t just mean brands, but more significantly, ethnicities.

From porcelain style to Barbies, a certain beauty standard had been set throughout history by something that seemed completely innocent — dolls. As young children would scan the shelves, only a small number would find dolls that looked just like them. Others were left to choose a doll that didn’t even bear a resemblance to them or their families.

Bratz dolls went against the Eurocentric beauty standard that had been valued not only in the doll industry, but also on a larger scale within the media industry. Latinx and Black communities were, for the first time, finally seeing themselves represented by a brand. With an already apparent lack of representation in movies and advertisements, this was

LIFESTYLE | 14

a big milestone. Between facial features and body types, Bratz dolls stood in sharp contrast to Barbie dolls. Although their varying skin tones were a part of what made these dolls special, it was also the features, like almond-shaped eyes, that made these dolls more relatable for members of minority groups. While this was a step in the right direction, acceptance wasn’t generated overnight.

Although sales numbers would indicate the Bratz introduction was a success, the long history behind these dolls tells a different story. When creator, Carter Bryant, and investor, Isaac Larian, began to pitch these dolls to stores across the world, they weren’t as positively received as they would come to be in later years. The makeup and clothing choices were criticized, and many store managers questioned their potential popularity among customers. As some began to “take the risk” and put Bratz dolls in their stores, others followed suit. However, the harsh opinions of Bratz dolls didn’t stop when they started populating shelves.

Some children were thrilled to see their long-overdue representation within the Bratz brand, but others weren’t even allowed to consider those dolls an option. The strides for inclusivity didn’t matter to the people who had always seen themselves represented in the mainstream. This lack of recognition and appreciation led to comments about these dolls being “ugly” or “slutty.” According to some, the makeup was too much and the clothes were too little. Digging a little deeper would expose a much darker reality. Barbie in a bikini wasn’t provocative, but a Bratz doll in a crop top was. Barbie was allowed to wear makeup, but when a Bratz doll did, it was sending the wrong message. The differing perceptions on what was considered to be acceptable for dolls were not so much about clothing and makeup as proclaimed, but rather a deeper cultural disparity.

People stick to what they know and what they’re comfortable with; that’s human nature. In this case, children were likely to get dolls that resembled them. While okay in theory, by sticking to dolls that looked like them and labeling the dolls that didn’t as “the others,” people were further perpetuating a cultural divide. With ignorant labels like “ugly,” parents might not have realized the ideologies that they passed on to their impressionable children.

Despite public criticism and debate, Bratz dolls were a key aspect of Y2K culture. With trends such as body inclusivity and shifting beauty ideals, Bratz took those ideas and put them into something that would stick with the younger generation. Today, we see a variety of races, cultures and disabilities represented in the media. Twenty years ago, however, it was solely Malibu Barbie and Ken splayed across playrooms. While Bratz dolls didn’t begin the movement of media diversity, they played a large role for a generation that would come to constantly strive to improve inclusivity efforts.

LIFESTYLE | 15

The Reinvention of New Balance KELLEY GOSK

E

How New Balance went from the “dad shoe” to the “cꝏl shoe” with a few brilliant marketing tactics.

volving as a business means constant reinvention. New Balance, a brand that’s been trying to change consumer perception since 1906, has worked to evolve through innovative collaborations, storytelling marketing and forward-thinking campaigns to go from the quintessential “dad shoe” to the ultimate “cool shoe.” Initially starting as an arch support company for labor workers, NB has worked its way up to become a global brand, manufacturing sports footwear and apparel.

If you’re not familiar with the iconic scene from the rom-com classic, Crazy, Stupid, Love (2011), Ryan Gosling’s character (Jacob) tells Steve Carell’s character (Cal) that “you’ve got no right to wear New Balance sneakers, ever,” and proceeds to throw them over the mall railing. This classic line proves the notion that New Balance was once considered the “dad shoe,” which was not intended as a compliment.

Worldwide, celebrities and fashion influencers are photographed in NB, creating the “cool” identity it has today. So, how’d NB do it? Changing the consumers’ perception of a brand is not just difficult, it’s nearly impossible. Yet, New Balance was able to do this in the last few years through strategic marketing tactics.

According to the New Balance marketing team, the strategy focused on three components: the right product + the cultural cosigner + the right moment in time. So, what does this look like in practice?

Instead of focusing on mainstream celebrities, New Balance focused on targeted collaborations and targeted designs, working to stay true to itself.

FEATURES | 16

The brand’s mission works to empower individuals through sport and high-quality craft, which aligns with its collaborations. With intentional collabs with brand influencers such as Aimé Leon Dore and storytellers such as Chicago’s Joe Freshgoods, NB has attracted younger and more diverse audiences.

These ambassadors help to work towards cultural progression and growth. By working with brands and influences that are timelessly trendy, NB will obtain continuous support from consumers. The phrase “timelessly trendy”, while an oxymoron, refers to New Balance engaging with niche creatives that target consumers who value quality design, rather than those participating in the millions of micro trends that are continuously circulating on social media.

Between 2021 and 2022, NB had a 200 percent jump in media impressions. Collaborating with these niche brands, creatives and celebrities with loyalty allows the products to be trendy, despite the previous track record.

Timelessly Trendy

Ryan Gosling was wrong.

FEATURES | 17

T

he second marketing strategy NB utilized is storytelling over traditional advertising.

Chris Davis, the Chief Marketing Officer for NB, says he wants to “invoke emotion and communicate empathy and value across consumers.” Studies have shown that marketing by evoking emotion is more effective, as people rely on emotions rather than information to make brand decisions.

Emotions provoked through advertisements are more influential in buying decisions than the information itself. Once NB realized this, it ran with it. For the past few years, the brand has worked on campaigns that focus on forward-thinking and heritage.

The third strategy focused on solidifying brand values. NB values being a brand with heritage rather than being a heritage brand. So, what does this mean? This means taking things from our history and modernizing them. The MADE in USA collection showcased NB’s most iconic silhouettes from the ‘70s and ‘80s that highlighted heritage storytelling. The brand sits at the intersection of sports and culture, giving it the sporty yet trendy look we see today. Dipping its toes in both the cultural and sports world allows for more visibility and popularity.

One controversial change NB made was its price spike. While unfavorable to some, this spike helped change brand perception. NB is now less accessible and has created a desire within the market, as shoes like the 550s are now considered rare.

NB has successfully remained consistent since 1906 in terms of design and value, yet has still been able to grow within brand perception. One way NB did this was by changing colorways. Following in Nike’s footsteps, NB has taken popular shoe models such as the 574s and created new colorways to create versatility. Trends move rapidly, so NB worked to improve the performance and comfort of its shoes, letting style come as the trend cycle does. Style is flexible and can change on a dime. Since NB has worked hard to be perceived as cool, consumers believe it.

Not only has its brand image improved, but NB has grown revenue from $1.5B in 2008 to $4B in 2020.

FEATURES | 18

Around 2015, NB moved to a social proof approach with campaigns such as “Move the World” and “Always in Beta,” which led to a positive outlook on the brand. Additionally, NB successfully moved with societal changes, prioritizing environmental conservation by moving towards zero-waste manufacturing.

Most notable has been NB’s consistent transparency throughout the media. A recent campaign poster featuring NB 990s reads: “Worn by supermodels in London and dads in Ohio.” This ad leans into its previous brand image instead of hiding it. As NB has had the same core demographic for decades, acknowledging it in a comedic manner makes the brand more charismatic. As consumers, we remember a lot. So, if you can’t escape the stereotype, own it.

These shifts in marketing strategies have ultimately reinvented NB into the sneaker culture icon it is today. NB is becoming one of the leading sneaker brands globally, competing with Nike and Adidas. The brand has been living proof of the ways that storytelling marketing has the power to change consumers’ perceptions of a brand in such drastic ways. NB has brilliantly produced campaigns and other unique marketing content that shows progression while still keeping with its values. As a brand, to reinvent yourself you have to push boundaries. New Balance did exactly that, making it the unsung hero of our generation.

if yo u the can’t #er esca e p o t y own pe, e

it.

FEATURES | 19

LIFESTYLE | 20

MICHAEL JORDAN: THE GREATEST OF ALL TIME IN THE EYES OF BASKETBALL FANS AND SNEAKERHEADS ALIKE.

MARGO DAVID

MARGO DAVID

THE GREATEST OF ALL TIME “MJ,” “The Jumpman,” “Mr. Clutch” and “Captain Marvel,” among many more, are some of the classic nicknames coined to represent Michael Jordan. Known as the “G.O.A.T.,” or “The Greatest of All Time,” he was given a legacy he still holds today as the greatest player in NBA history. Under that prestigious title stems the famous Air Jordan line. With what would later become one of the most famous sneakers of all time, Jordan, at a mere 21 years old, started a movement within both the NBA and the culture behind sneakers themselves. His talent, charm and competitive edge turned Jordan into a trendsetter on and off the court.

LIFESTYLE | 21

THE LINE Jordan’s partnership with Nike caused an astounding shift within pop culture, starting in the late ‘80s and ‘90s. Jordan was making a name for himself, as he was the third overall pick in the 1984 NBA draft. Crowned Rookie of the Year in 1985, it’s inevitable that partnership offers were being thrown at him from all directions.

Imagine this: the Air Jordan line almost didn’t exist.

The iconic, history-making brand that has been around for 37 years almost missed the chance to become legendary. Jordan originally wanted to represent Adidas on the court, but Nike’s offer was too good to turn down— the brand gave Jordan the freedom to design his own shoes and a five-year, $500,000 contract (a high offer at the time).

THE LEGACY Within the past 37 years, the Air Jordan line has continued to evolve in ways that reflect pop culture. The identity Nike received over time has proven how strong the brand is. This strength has stemmed immensely from Jordan, who still represents Nike today. The Air Jordan line has inspired more NBA players to create their own lines with Nike, giving others the opportunity to integrate their personalities through sneakers. Coach John Thompson III followed Jordan’s lead and designed his own shoes for his alma mater, Georgetown University, after their ‘84 NCAA championship win. NBA players continued to develop sneaker lines with Nike including Kevin Durant, Kyrie Irving, Kobe Bryant, Giannis Antetokounmpo and countless others. All of these numerous partnerships, collaborations and promotions can be accredited back to the G.O.A.T., Michael Jordan.

LIFESTYLE | 22

THE CULTURE What started as just a pair of sneakers sparked media madness as the Air Jordan line made its entrance into pop culture. In the music industry, rap culture and sneaker culture have created an inseparable bond. Starting with Tupac in ’92 and Biggie in ’94, the mentions of Jordan in lyrics have only furthered his legacy in society. Artists such as Jay-Z, Drake, T.I., Kanye West, Lil Wayne and J. Cole followed shortly after, turning Jordan’s life into lyrics. J. Cole sang, “Hoop Dreamin,’ hanging up pictures of my idols/Jordan was like Jesus, SLAM was like the Bible/I used to read it twice and cut the pictures out/Had the Jordan free-throw dunk, tongue stickin’ out” in his song “I Got It” in 2010, paying tribute to Jordan as an idol in his life. Jordan also took on acting as he played the lead in “Space Jam,” a feature film for Jordan with the Looney Tunes.

The film’s plotline exhibits Jordan as a hero, saving the Looney Tunes from the “Monstars” by leading them to a win in a basketball game. This was another opportunity for the Air Jordan line to shine, and its film presence developed even further with “The Fresh Prince of Bel-Air.” Will Smith’s character held his sneaker collection close to his heart, and countless pairs of ‘90s-style Air Jordans are featured across all six seasons.

It’s simple: sneaker culture would not exist without Jordan picking up that pen as a freshly drafted 21-year-old and signing his name to partner with Nike, unknowingly creating one of the greatest sneaker partnerships of all time. His strong presence within sneaker culture has inspired other NBA players to integrate their persona, on and off the court, into sneakers.

All in all, Michael Jordan has earned a standing ovation to last a lifetime.

LIFESTYLE | 23

Y N C DELANEY MOORE

E ET TS S V VOGUE OGUE I IT T

NEW YORK, I LOVE YOU

TRAVEL | 24

Let’s Vogue It” –– a little phrase emphasized and lived by the eccentric, brilliant actor and drama professional, Madeleine Potter, means fully releasing yourself into the fierceness, coyness and fire of the moment. Oftentimes, when you “vogue it,” the face of an iconic supermodel instantly pops into your head; the urge to try and emulate them takes over as you step into your power. Perhaps it’s the natural glam looks of Kate Moss, the allure of Naomi Campbell, or the enchanting effect of Cindy Crawford that becomes your muse. No matter which look you choose, one thing that all these iconic ladies share is that they were the “faces” of New York City in the 1990s Existing as the spotlight of Planet Earth, New York City in the 1990s was the aesthetic “center of the universe.” NYC truly was, and still is, a vibe of its own, existing in the sparkling area between life and dreams.

It’s like a living, breathing entity, growing with time the same as a teenager who gradually takes on adulthood with a tube of red lipstick, some liquid courage and the yearning for self-discovery.

The city was going through yet another renaissance and a large bout of social unrest during the ‘90s, and it had never been as aesthetically relevant as it was under the reign of its resident icons, including personalities such as Madonna, Winona Ryder and Mariah Carey.

New fashion. New trends. A whole new persona transformed the city into an almost neon illusion.

If places were personified, NYC was the ingénue becoming the femme fatale. It was the protagonist in a rebellious coming-of-age narrative. It’s the grunge, the drama, the edgy, the experimental — the home of the glitterati. The whole era was a glorification of fame and was oh so public, and yet the true heart of the city’s elite life was shrouded in mystery. The city had an underbelly, littered with hidden gems, dives and prime retail… So, if you’re looking to find the best place to dance on elevated surfaces and live within your perfectly curated Pinterest aesthetic, look no further. Here’s how to DO New York City like it’s the 1990s. It’s time to dress, serve and strut like you’re already famous.

LE LET TS S V VOGUE OGUE I IT T

W H E N K ATE M ET J O H N NY

Kate Moss: heroin chic, a fresh face, a creative at heart. Johnny Depp: universal, eccentric, the typical “bad boy.” This collision would be still pop culturally relevant today — a union of shared famous friends, a partnership painted with scandal, a duo of extreme intrigue. One of the most iconic celebrity couples of all time… and they met in New York. Café Tabac, the legendary spot of the influential and hub for the dealings of white-collar illicitness, was the meeting grounds for one of the most prominent couples of the decade. The restaurant served as more than just a spot to get great fries; it was a social club for the icons of New York. Boasting regulars such as Madonna herself, the cafe had the ideal balance of bar to restaurant and was perfectly private.

More intimate than a club and more palatable than a dance floor, the cafe was the great success of East Village native Roy Liebenthal. An article from theface.com shared quotes from frequent attendees that described not only the atmosphere, but some of the club’s culturally historic moments, such as a quote from gossip columnist AJ Benza who said, “Everybody was there. When you ask me who was there, it’s easier to say who wasn’t.” Also documented on theface.com is an account of the first meeting of Kate Moss and Johnny Depp from journalist George Wayne: “Kate walks in with Naomi, I remember one night, and Johnny Depp was sitting at the back of the restaurant having dinner

UE UE I IT T

with a few friends. I just grabbed her hand and took her back there. I said, ‘Kate, this is Johnny. Johnny, this is Kate.” While stars like Moss have flourished with time, other’s legacies — notably Depp — have become ones marred with controversy and contention. While we can appreciate this era from an aesthetic viewpoint, we acknowledge that when rose-colored glasses are removed, there are deeper issues at hand. The Edge Magazine does not condone the actions of Depp and others in any form.

The cafe did more than introduce one A-lister to another; it also was a speakeasy, supermodel clubhouse, lounge and refuge of celebrity. It was almost as if there was a gravitational pull around it, attracting the biggest names to its doors: Liza Minelli, Valentino, De Niro, Naomi Campbell and Leonardo DiCaprio, just to name a fraction. While the bar closed in the East Village in 1997, you can still visit restaurants of its nature in NYC to get that glitzy, vintage vibe. Some restaurants we recommend adding to your city itinerary include the Polo Bar, where many of the regulars of Café Tabac have been spotted, and LAVO Italian Restaurant (a favorite of Mariah Carey). Just make sure you book in advance and bring extra change — they can be a bit on the pricier side. The socialite life is one of the whispered promises in bar corners and friendly handshakes across the table, and in NYC, you too can get a glimpse of the coveted madness.

TRAVEL | 25

L ETS LIKE

PA RTY ITS

1999 It was a spectacle. The party scene was a freeing invention forged and beautified from the ashes of governmental failure and neglect. It was the openness, sense of liberation and self-expression that made the club scene in New York City the revolution that it was. Everyone mingled regardless of race, ethnicity, class, gender, sexuality or status — it was the music that attracted them. Just like there was a mix of people, there was a mix of styles, and the clubs were a place of experimentation not only in the musical sense but also stylistically, sexually and socially.

If it were the 1990s, according to Blind Magazine, the nightclubs you’d

want to add to your list would be the Tunnel, Roxy, Palladium, Club Expo and Webster Hall; these were the places where everybody –– from Wall Street brokers to drag queens, to musicians and movie stars –– would be spotted letting loose. Let the music guide you to your destination; whether your ear is pleased by techno or hiphop, there is somewhere perfect for you.

Sadly, many of these ‘90s hotspots are now closed, so instead, we recommend checking out Elsewhere in East Williamsburg (music styles: indie-rock, underground, Latinx party) and Avant Gardener in East Williamsburg (music styles: electronic dance).

SITT ING ON A BENCH IN CONEY ISL A ND …

A vibrant, picturesque postcard to a skeleton of metal and back again, Coney Island is one of the most iconic locations south of Brooklyn. So, it’s only fitting that NYC’s biggest supermodel icons were photographed having a chill day at the globally recognized amusement park. In a famous photo, models Naomi Campbell, Linda Evangelista, Tatjana Patitz and Stephanie Seymour were all spotted having a drink together TRAVEL | 26

while enjoying a day out at the park.

Unlike some of the other pricier options, emulating your favorite icons at Coney Island is a much more doable and affordable option to add to your schedule. Just grab your favorite sun hat and best thrifted denim and head toward the amusement park for food, rides and live music — just make sure you avoid stopping by during the off-season.

X

XOX

THE STOMPING G RO UNDS

To close out, we’ve compiled a short list of Manhattan neighborhoods to visit like your favorite icons once did during your vacay, or perhaps as part of a stint in the Elon in NYC program. Whether it be for a quick hot dog or an Instagram story moment, we hope you find something of note in these celebrityfrequented locations.

T h e East Village: birthplace of punk, popular spot to visit elite bars, artsy. If you’re looking for a piece of history, stop

by McSorley’s Old Ale House, the oldest Irish saloon in NYC, to grab an ale (light or dark) and bask in the same upbeat energy that icon John Lennon once enjoyed.

Gramercy: formerly home to the Gramercy Park Hotel, it was one of the most frequented spots by some of the world’s biggest musicians including The Clash and Madonna, complete with great views, and home to an arthouse vibe.

The Upper East Side: upscale, oozing with style and posh. This neighborhood is filled with prime New York spots every visitor should witness. A blend of classic brownstones and cultural

XOXO

institutions, this district is home to Museum Mile, a stretch of Fifth Avenue containing the Metropolitan Museum of Art (The Met), The Guggenheim and El Museo del Barrio. Definitely make the trip to the Met in your favorite trendy slip dress like Naomi Campbell and Kate Moss did at the infamous Met Galas of the ‘90s, and take blushingly chic photos in front of the Monets and Van Goghs.

Walking the streets of New York City is like walking through a museum — every street corner has a story and every alley has more secrets than most people.

Traveling to the city is like seeing snow for the first time; it’s indelible and feeds one’s inner romanticism.

Even if you’re physically far away, New York is never gone because it’s more than just a place, it’s a feeling — it’s a state of mind.

Wherever your travels lead you… New York, New York will always be ready to greet you as an old friend because it never really left you.

TRAVEL | 27

Let’s Talk About AAVE The Subtle Appropriation of Black Culture Through the Use of African American Vernacular English.

SARAH HENNIS | LIFESTYLE EDITOR

LIFESTYLE | 34

“SLAY.” “YASS.” “PURR.” “FINNA.” “CHILE.”

S

“

lay.” “Purr.” “Yass.” “Finna.” “Chile.” The list goes list goes on and on. These words serve as examples of African American Vernacular English, more commonly known as AAVE. What exactly is AAVE? Let’s talk about it. AAVE is essentially a vocabulary created by African American communities, including, but not limited to, the following: “chile,” “asf,” “woke,” “lit,” “snatched,” “bae,” “shook,” etc.

The common misconception surrounding AAVE is that it was created by Gen Z, but that is not the case — we just embody the generation that has taken it as our own.

However, the issue comes from a lack of knowledge and awareness. The increasingly frequent usage of AAVE by non-Black people can happen without the realization of its harmfulness.

Appropriation of Black culture does not solely pertain to AAVE, and it’s important to recognize the other avenues through which Black culture has been stolen.

The issue of white people adopting certain elements of Black culture is nothing new. The appropriation of Black culture has been so normalized that it is often not seen as cultural appropriation since it’s only obvious to those having their culture stolen. While I’m not here to “whitesplain” the concept of cultural appropriation, it’s important to discuss and bring awareness to it. So, let’s dive into an example of appropriation of Black culture.

The most prominent and complicated form of appropriation of Black culture comes down to music.

We owe almost all popular music forms to the Black community. Jazz, rap, techno, disco, rock ‘n’ roll — you LIFESTYLE | 35

So what is wrong with using AAVE as a non-Black person?

name it. Throughout history, these genres of music have all been subject to whitewashing, which is the act of altering something in a way that caters to white people.

A prime example of this is Elvis Presley, who became known as the “King of Rock ‘n’ Roll,” despite rock ‘n’ roll music being pioneered by Black musicians. This serves as just one example of the appropriation of Black culture.

Now let’s talk about AAVE. Everyone wants to throw the word “slay” around, but no one wants to discuss where it comes from. Thanks to platforms like TikTok and Twitter, the usage of AAVE by nonBlack people has become increasingly frequent in recent years. Although we have seen many examples of appropriation of Black culture, this specific abuse of language is uniquely harmful because it has been able LIFESTYLE | 36

to spread more quickly and anonymously through social media. Social media guarantees a certain amount of anonymity that users often hide behind, making them more comfortable using language that they might not use in real life.

AAVE has a long and complicated history as a dialect. According to the History News Network, a probable origin of AAVE is the Creole Hypothesis, which theorizes that AAVE was a bridge created between English and other various West African languages. This dialect spread through events such as The Great Migration, the movement of thousands of African Americans to northern cities

It’s all about the adoption of Black culture.

from the South. This event was crucial for the spread of AAVE and explains why it became so prevalent in Black culture. AAVE is often viewed as “slang” or “broken English,” which is extremely disrespectful and harmful to those who use it. Despite disregard for the validity of AAVE, it functions as a structured dialect that follows a set of rules just like any other form of language and deserves to be recognized for what it is.

So what’s wrong with using AAVE as a non-Black person? It’s all about the adoption of Black culture. Using these words and phrases ultimately makes it seem like users are trying to portray

and identify themselves with the Black community.

This becomes harmful because users can adopt this personality online, but can detach themselves from it in real life. White people can use AAVE without suffering from the racism and discrimination that Black people endure on a daily basis. They can remove Blackness when it is not convenient for them anymore, which is unfair to the Black communities that have endured constant pain and suffering.

A prime example of this harmful adoption of AAVE is within celebrity culture. Many celebrities, such as Billie Eilish, have adopted AAVE language, with Eilish eventually being called out by her brother on an Instagram live stream. Her brother questioned her choice of words and way of speaking, claiming she sounded nothing like herself, displaying her use LIFESTYLE | 37

JUST BECAUSE THE USE OF AAVE CAN BE CONSIDERED SUBTLE, DOESN’T MEAN IT IS NOT A FORM OF APPROPRIATION. It’s time to cut it out. of AAVE combined with a purposeful tone that is also known as a “Blaccent.” While Eilish can adopt this personality online, she can detach herself and return to her true, white form in real life, making it even more disrespectful.

Just because the use of AAVE can be considered LIFESTYLE | 38

subtle, doesn’t mean it is not a form of appropriation.

It’s time to cut it out. Throwing words around left and right without any regard or knowledge of their origins amounts to carelessness and disrespect. We are better than that. So, let’s start thinking twice before describing everything as “slay.” ■

LIFESTYLE | 39

LYDIA BUCKIUS | ASSISTANT BEAUTY & WELLNESS EDITOR

The L true cost of Streetwear

ong gone are the days of over-the-top outfits for daily outings. The comfortability, style and edge that streetwear provides are unmatched. The rise in popularity of streetwear fashion dates back almost 40 years with the emergence of brands like Stussy that sold skate and surf apparel. When worn outside their intended environments, these baggy and bright athletic pieces turned into fashion staples that would transform the industry for years to come.

FASHION | 40

Today, the global streetwear market is valued at 173.4 billion USD. It has become cut-throat, with resellers buying out drops and reselling pieces at two to three times the initial market value. The re-selling of sneakers and luxe apparel is a lucrative business that keeps many sneakerheads in a chokehold, but is it ethical?

Despite serving as just a side hustle for many, the most skilled resellers can make upwards of $10,000 a month with little to no overhead or time commitment.

From a business standpoint, this is golden; but, what about those who are attracted to the sneaker styles continuously being bought and sold for exorbitant prices in this online cycle?

Underprivileged populations that birthed these trends and styles are being priced out of the market and cannot dress as they want.

FASHION | 41

In the Bronx, hip-hop music started fashion trends and styles that were unique to Black communities and were initially very niche. With the rise of social media influencers and the appearance of more casual styles in runway shows came the mass influx in consumer interest in brands like Off-White, KITH, Aime Leon Dore and Bape.

The streetwear industry saw a jump in consumer demands, but it did not increase production quantities in an effort to remain exclusive and competitive. As a result, highly coveted items such as The Air Jordan have been gentrified. Now, consumers with a fixed budget are forced to buy dupes, adding yet another ethical dilemma to the equation.

Unregulated fashion dupes are not produced in clean, safe environments, and factory workers are often underpaid –– if paid at all.

The cost of a pair of Air Jordan sneakers on a foreign site may appear to be a steal for only a hundred dollars, but with a price that low, consumers must know that their money is not being morally allocated. Many factory workers in China are paid less than minimum wage, an amount already meager at 55 cents per hour, leaving the majority of the profit in the pockets of corrupt business personnel. This parasitic relationship continues each time a duped item is ordered online today due to streetwear’s out-of-control authentic re-sell culture. Global companies such as Nike have noticed this and are trying to reroute the industry to become more accessible and equitable. In a recent interview with NPR, a Nike spokesperson announced that the company would be rolling out new bot-detecting technology on the Nike SNKRS app FASHION 42 that will| prohibit bots from buying

This increased monitoring from Nike is promising and will hopefully lead to increased accessibility across the board. Today, the best way to secure streetwear styles for your collection without paying an arm and a leg is to explore sustainable thrifting sites such as Depop and Grailed. Buying second-hand styles is a great way to reduce landfill waste, lower your carbon footprint and freshen up your wardrobe with the hottest new styles, all while being ethical and financially savvy. Next time you are tempted to buy a streetwear dupe or an authentic item from a re-sell site at an excessively high price, ask yourself if it is worth the negative environmental and social impacts that will occur as a direct result of your purchase.

FASHION | 43

THE ROOTS OF RAP

CATIE MANNATO | TRAVEL EDITOR

F

rom the streets and city neighborhoods to an international phenomenon, hip-hop has developed into one of the world’s most dominant genres of music and culture.

Through the iconic ‘90s hip-hop scene — from its artists, producers, record labels and more –– let’s look at the three music capitals around the United States that cultivated the industry.

TRAVEL | 44

Los Angeles Los Angeles marks the hub for all things West Coast rap, and it is one of the cities involved in the most significant disputes in music history — one that resulted in the death of two of the coast’s star figures, Tupac Shakur from the West and The Notorious B.I.G. from the East. While hip-hop originated in NYC, LA mimicked the party-rap style of the East, until the late ‘80s when gangster rap allowed the West Coast scene to discover its own sound within the genre. West Coast hip-hop is known for its dance and rhythmic beats, while also having slower, chiller vibes compared to its Eastern counterparts.

LA artists in the ‘90s began to move up in the mainstream music charts, specifically with the release of the gangster rap group, N.W.A.’s Straight Outta Compton (1989) and the establishment of the LA-based label Death Row Records by Suge Knight, representing hip-hop legends such as Snoop Dogg, Coolio and Tupac (1992).

After Tupac’s tragic death in a drive-by shooting in Las Vegas, the attention of the hip-hop scene slowly drifted back toward a NY and East Coast focus once again, as well as to the emerging subgenres of Atlanta rap in the south. Hip-hop legends like LA’s Snoop Dogg also called a peace summit after Tupac was murdered to end the feuds between the East and West.

New York

New York City, the other half of the infamous hip-hop rivalry, marks the origins of the genre –– the 1970s in the Bronx. When hip-hop was first popularized, rap everywhere was considered “East Coast rap” since the artists were from NYC. Hip-hop’s golden age, beginning in the late ‘80s and lasting throughout the ‘90s, launched mainstream work in the New York metropolitan area from The Notorious B.I.G. He was the most influential figure for East Coast rap, up until his death in March 1997 in a drive-by shooting fueled by the East and West Coast rivalry. Both his fame and mostacclaimed album Ready To Die called attention to the East for gangster rap at a time when the West’s popularity for the genre surged.

When you think of New York hip-hop culture, you’re reminded of breakdancing, DJing, MCing and graffiti –– the main identifiers of the East’s scene. The East Coast and New York artists were set apart from others across the country by their complex lyrics with multisyllabic rhymes, wordplay and metaphors. The messages of the NYC songs of ‘90s rap entice people to listen, rather than just simply hit the elevated surfaces on the d-floor like LA hip-hop made you feel.

Atlanta

While NYC and LA took the headlines for their raging East vs. West Coast rivalry marking its territory in the ‘90s, Atlanta’s rap scene took the spotlight later in the decade. Hip-hop first emerged on the Georgia scene in the 1980s, but it didn’t gain immediate traction beyond local artists performing across the vibrant Atlanta nightlife. The first genres of hip-hop in Atlanta were labeled as part of the “Miami Bass” or “booty music” subgenre of hip-hop, characterized by heavy bass, sustained kick drums, dance tempos and sexually explicit lyrics. The earliest star, Atlanta-based rapper and producer MC Shy-D, brought his Bronx-style hip-hop roots to the

South in the late ‘80s and continued throughout the ‘90s.

In the early ‘90s, gangster rap defined the Atlanta hip-hop scene, serving as a platform for artists to express their adversity from living in the city’s ghettos. Hip-hop’s allure spread beyond the African American groups creating it, which resulted in its mainstream success.

Hip-hop production collectives in the ‘90s, such as Dungeon Family and Organized Noize, were the keys to the claim to fame for groups like Outkast, Arrested Development and Goodie Mob. Groups under these collectives paved the way for the ‘90s “Dirty South” music –– the term given to the hip-hop scene of that classic crunk Atlanta rap popularized after the rise of gangster rap.

By the middle of the decade, Atlanta’s most wellknown record label of the time was producing hit albums for acts like Usher, Kriss Kross and TLC, earning the city the title of “The Motown of the South.” Atlanta had discovered its own sound as the turn of the century approached with the emergence of trap music, a derivative of hip-hop that remains popular today. The significance of trap is critical to the city, specifically for those who lived in lower-class neighborhoods and grew up during the crack cocaine epidemic, as the lyrics of its songs express the resilience of their experiences. With its easy access, crack cocaine proliferated in these lower socioeconomic areas since it was a highly inexpensive drug that resulted in a quick high. The ‘90s defined the southern hip-hop scene like no other in Atlanta, bringing it forward amongst the two powerhouses in the East and West and establishing the city as a pivotal figure in the country’s growing rap domination.

TRAVEL | 45

LIFESTYLE || 46 FEATURES 46

LESLIE AVILES MENDOZA

T

The term Chicano or Chicana describes Americans of Mexican descent and is a chosen identity for many Mexican-Americans. It differs from the term “Mexican-American” because the word Chicano was originally used in a derogatory way to refer to the Mexican working class. However, MexicanAmerican people took the classist and racist term and used it as a form of empowerment.

The Chicano Movement, also called El Movimiento, was a social and political movement that began in the 1960s. During this movement, Chicanos fought against discrimination, segregation and stereotypes, as well as for voting rights. The Chicano Movement was caused

in part by the Treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo, which marked the end of the Mexican-American War and promised to uphold pre-existing land grants to those who decided to remain where they were. The border moved when the States won the Mexican-American War. The U.S. took over California, Nevada, Utah, New Mexico, most of Arizona and Colorado, and parts of Oklahoma, Kansas, and Wyoming. As many like to say, “We didn’t cross the border, the border crossed us.” Unfortunately, these land grant promises made by the U.S. government were not fulfilled, causing many Mexican-Americans to suffer due to the loss of land and not being treated as equals to white Americans.

LIFESTYLE FEATURES | 47

FEATURES | 48

FEATURES | 49

The Chicano Movement emerged through all of this to bring to light the issues and injustices faced by an entire community.

Many went out to the streets to protest. Posters and banners reading “Chicano means Power,” “Unite for better schools,” “We will not be intimidated,” “Be brown and be proud,” “Viva la Raza,” and “Education not eradication'' could be seen in big, bold letters. They were protesting for their rights and for equality. This movement was a form of expression for Chicanos as they stood up for their people.

Chicanos also protested by expressing themselves through fashion. They used fashion to counter forced assimilation into American culture. During World War II, when women and men were told to spend less on clothing, Chicanas and Chicanos did the opposite and started wearing Zoot suits. Zoot suits had jackets with extra-wide shoulders that narrowed at the waist, paired with baggy slacks and a wide-brimmed hat. Chicanos stood out because of these suits and people didn't like it. Many people, including servicemen, were upset. They viewed Zoot suits as an unpatriotic waste of resources.

Chicanos were seen as thugs and delinquents and were targeted as the victims of violence and police brutality.

On some occasions, police beat them with clubs and other weapons they could get their hands on. Even though they faced many obstacles, Chicanos never stopped fighting for their rights, particularly through their embrace of fashion as a form of expression. Because of this, fashion has been a long-lasting element associated with Chicanos expressing their culture.

FEATURES | 50

Many of the clothes that Chicanos wore stayed popular throughout the early ‘90s and 2000s and some were even modernized. Throughout the movement’s history, Zoot suits, tapered trousers, bold lip liners and big hairstyles, to name a few, were very prominent. Now, we can see the movement’s influence through the use of lip liners, bandanas and hoops as key pieces.

Clothing and fashion helped Chicanos and Chicanas express themselves and support their identity as an example of the love and respect for the culture, traditions and the Chicano movement itself. From Zoot suits to straight-leg khaki pants, Chicano fashion has continuously evolved and caught the attention of many.

Their fashion has helped inspire many of the trends we see today. It helps remind people of what they were fighting for and why they still fight.

Although they have continuously been targeted for their form of expression through clothing, Chicanos have never shied away from styling themselves as a form of protest and rebellion to those they are fighting against.

Fashion has played a key role in El Movimiento and will continue to do so.

Overall, the goal of the Chicano Movement was to fight for the restoration of land grants, rights for farm workers, better education and the right to vote.

El Moviemento also contributed to various aspects of society such as fashion, art and political and social issues. The outcomes of this movement have impacted more than just Chicanos— El Movimiento has shaped an entire generation. ■

FEATURES | 51

FASHION | 52

M

usic and fashion have us all in a chokehold. It’s hard to imagine a world where one doesn’t directly influence the other, and the evidence is obvious. Throughout history, music movements have created the styles of each decade — ‘60s mods and hippies, ‘70s punk and glam rock and ‘80s goth. We even see it now with Harry Styles fans wearing bright colors and boas to shows, or Swifties rocking the red lip. Music and fashion dominate pop culture and are widely loved because anyone can participate in them. The ‘90s are no exception. If anything, the ‘90s had a stronger influence than any other decade because of the wide variety of popular music genres. These genres birthed fashion styles like grunge, glam, hip-hop streetwear and athleisure.

FASHION | 53

GRUNGE Grunge style was one of the most popular trends of the ‘90s. Grunge was like a new era of punk, where the goal was to look effortlessly cool but also slightly unkempt. It gave “fuck the rules” vibes and was heavily influenced by the music artists themselves. Kurt Cobain from Nirvana, as well as the members of Pearl Jam, formed this raw look dominated by combat boots, graphic tees, ripped jeans and flannels. The grunge style truly embodied the feeling of songs from these bands and ones like them — just listen to “Smells Like Teen Spirit” or “State of Love and Trust.” Layering patterns was popular at the time, and thrift stores were a grunge lover’s best friend. This style took the ‘90s by storm and continues to show up in current trends.

ATHLEISURE Athletic wear is one of the most popular styles of clothing to wear today, but it didn’t really exist outside the gym until the girl groups of the ‘90s started rocking the look. Mel C, aka Sporty Spice, basically invented athleisure. The tracksuit trend started gaining trac(k)tion — pun intended — at this point in time, especially after Mel C started regularly rocking Adidas in both her everyday style and her concert outfits.

All Saints, another English girl group that was popular in the ‘90s, started the “dad shoe” trend before most people rocking it nowadays could walk.

FASHION | 54

STREETWEAR ‘90s streetwear is arguably one of the most influential styles ever. The revival of this style is still seen heavily on pop culture idols nowadays.

This style was popularized by Black culture through hip-hop icons such as Lauryn Hill, Notorious B.I.G., Snoop Dogg, Tupac and TLC. This style was made up of baggy jeans, graphic tees and overalls combined with a *good* amount of accessorizing. Bucket hats, chains, rings and sunglasses were necessary to pull off the style correctly. Shoes were also an important factor in this look, as Timberlands and stylish or unique sneakers were frequently used.

GLAM

‘90s glam will hold a special place in our hearts forever. It was a time of experimentation that heavily influenced the style of the early 2000s as well, aka the “Y2K” style. Some of the most well-known glam gals of the ‘90s were the Spice Girls (as a whole), Jennifer Lopez and Gwen Stefani. Everyone had their own spin on their version of glam which is what made this trend so fun; glam was anything you wanted it to be. Each Spice Girl combined their personal brand with elegant pieces. J-Lo rocked the stunning chainmail tops before they were mainstream, and Gwen Stefani combined the punk “No Doubt” vibes with chic skirts and pumps. Not only were these styles popular in the ‘90s, but we have seen influences from the iconic “Y2K” era morph into today’s fashion. History repeats itself, and in this case, we’re loving it.

FASHION | 55

THE E G N U R G EFFECT FEATURES | 56

CAROLINE PIRWITZ

E T

Y

ou’ve likely heard the song “Smells like Teen Spirit” before. Or, maybe you went and saw The Batman (2022) in theaters and bobbed your head along to another one of Nirvana’s Nevermind songs, “Something in the Way.” You might’ve jammed along while Evan Peters’ character on American Horror Story: Freak Show (2014) sang a cover of “Come as You Are,” or maybe you had an “emo” phase in middle school where you listened to punk bands and wore black eyeliner, Doc Martens and oversized band tees.

Recently, as autumn has set in, a few TikTok fashion pages have begun to rule out the summer’s most popular look, the “clean girl aesthetic” (stolen from the slicked-back hair, light makeup and glossy skin look that Black and Latinx women have been doing for years) in favor of a more messy, low effort and, dare we say, grunge-y vibe, with smudged eyeliner and dark lipstick.

FEATURES | 57

AN ALTERNATIVE ROCK GENRE THAT HIT PEAK POPULARITY IN THE EAR Grunge, a huge music revolution and subculture of the ‘90s, has bled into the lives of younger generations despite the downfall of the sound. The effect is evident in the post-grunge music genre that arose after the death of grunge, in online aesthetics such as soft grunge –– popularized on Tumblr around 2012 –– as well as in the way the laid-back style of grunge kids has extended into our closets. With low-maintenance flannels, ripped-up and baggy clothes, oversized sweaters and stomping boots circling back into the fashion scene, as grunge style seems to always crop up with the colder weather, we might as well analyze how this subculture has influenced Gen Z. So, you may be wondering –– what is grunge?

For many, the word “grunge” brings to mind an era full of burnouts, sludgy guitar sounds, authenticity and teen angst. Grunge is an alternative rock genre that hit peak popularity in the early ‘90s, born out of the punk and metal genres of music. The music genre originated in the underground music scene of Seattle and neighboring towns, but thanks to the record label Sub Pop, it became popular around the world. Small-town bands became big-time sensations in no time. Big names like Nirvana, Pearl Jam, Soundgarden and Stone Temple Pilots helped to make grunge commercially successful as the ‘90s went on. Kurt Cobain, the frontrunner of Nirvana, has been dubbed “the father of grunge.”

Many argue that with Cobain’s death came the death of grunge, as after his passing in 1994, many grunge bands broke up or became less visible. Unfortunately, many grunge icons are no longer alive today as addiction and mental health issues seemed to plague musicians in this bracket. But, grunge’s introspective lyrics that addressed themes such as social alienation, self-doubt, abuse, neglect, betrayal, social and emotional isolation, addiction, psychological trauma and a desire for freedom led to the growth of the grunge subculture.

Grunge’s influence was felt in music, fashion, movies, literature, politics and even culture. Many modern bands, such as Wolf Alice, Mitski and Big Thief have taken inspiration from grunge or been labeled as grunge. The followers of grunge culture were nonconformists, but not to the extent of punk. Grunge was more laid back, literally a “come as you are” aesthetic, with minimal effort put into the superficial aspects of life. Their indifferent demeanor was a heavy contrast to the content of their music, which often focused on fighting for social rights and equality. These kids just wanted to play music and talk about societal downfalls. Grunge bands were passionate about the issues that they had with society. They weren’t necessarily “activists,” just normal people that got pushed into stardom. Most of the musical artists that gained fame during this short time were surprised by the uptick in their popularity as grunge arose from the underground. Shows felt like intimate kickbacks, and the bands only played if they felt like it. The energy of these shows encouraged listeners to just be themselves while existing in that space.

WHAT IS GRUNGE?

HE EARLY ‘90S, BORN OUT OF THE PUNK AND METAL GENRES OF MUSIC However, grunge wasn’t just about the look and the vibes. Many grunge songs are attacks on inequalities that still run rampant today. The key players of grunge were not as outwardly political as punk bands were, whose lyrics would often overtly call out the government. But, since grunge was inspired by punk, the attack on social inequality and embrace of authenticity did grow within this genre. Many bands were involved in raising awareness for social and political issues, or at least got their listeners to think about these topics.

Some concerts even had booths with political information.

Though subcultures in general aren’t as prevalent nowadays and the grunge subculture didn’t survive much past Cobain’s death, that doesn’t mean that this way of life didn’t affect the generations of today. Grunge synthesized many ideals and philosophies of the modern era, including feminism, liberalism and cynicism.

The angst and frustration that fueled grunge music was something many Gen X-ers could relate to and later trickled down into the values of the younger generation. Gen Z runs on nostalgia culture and a yearning for a time before their own, often taking inspiration from older generations. Much like the kids of grunge, Gen Z is concerned with LGBTQIA+ rights, gender equality and the climate and is more left-leaning politically.

But, while the kids of grunge often put their energy into making their music, Gen Z has a lot more opportunities for outlets and gathering information with social media. Gen Z is concerned with authenticity, and they tend to question rules and authority –– much like the grunge kids before them.

FEATURES | 59

The grunge revolution was inclusive, meaning that female musicians were a vital part of the scene and feministic ideals became a part of the new sensibility. Before grunge, rock was predominantly a white, male-dominated genre. When grunge came around, the way women were viewed was transformed. The way the grunge scene treated women was drastically different from the metal bands of the 1980s, who often sang about women as conquests or items for them to overpower. Grunge rock avoided the exploitation of women; instead, grunge challenged gender norms.

Hole front-runner Courtney Love was a very important feminist figure during the ‘90s. With her thought-provoking lyrics and trend-setting image, she helped put in the work to solidify this idea that rock is not just a man’s world.

FEATURES | 60

Many other grunge artists also commented on misogyny. People like Cobain outwardly detested any misogynistic audience they gained. “At this point, I have a request for our fans,” said Cobain. “If any of you in any way hate homosexuals, people of different color, or women, please do this one favor for us — leave us the fuck alone! Don’t come to our shows and don’t buy our records.”

So, what can we take away from this? Grunge was a short-lived phenomenon, beginning in the mid1980s and dying around ‘94. But, its impact has been felt far into the future. We recommend listening to bands such as Nirvana, Hole, Silverchair, Veruca Salt, Pearl Jam and more. There is a lot you can learn from looking at the world in the way that they did during this era. ■

There is a lot you can learn from looking at the world in the way that they did during this era FEATURES | 61

PHOTO | 62

PHOTO | 63

@THEEDGEMAG ELONEDGE.COM