MY WHY DIARY (noun phrase)
my research diary, why i done it, my opinions, what i took from it and how it has shaped by message.
MESSAGE DEVELOPMENT 1
MAKE DO & MEND
-In component one i looked into sustainability and the way in which Generation Alpha is becoming a lot more enviromentally concious which has led them to obtain more sustainable ways of shopping through the likes off charity shopping and turning to sustainable brands to cut down on consumerism and textile waste.
-Sticking with the 1950s theme for the AI aspect of my message. I wanted to look into the ways fashion and sustainability was viewed in the 1950s. World War Two had taught people how to “make do and mend” so recycling, reusing, reducing and repurposing where the standard ways of living.
-The ways they would do this would be through unravelling outgrown knitted items to turn them into scarfs, gloves, hats etc. Damaged clothing would be patched up so it could be reworn or passed down to family or friends. They also had a Rag and Bone man that would come through the streets and collect old house hold items and clothing so it they could either be repaired or sold.
-Seeing the way people were living sustainibily in the 1950s made me research into the ways in which brands these days are playing their part in making a sustainable future.
-My potential message for this concept will be how we can make do and mend old clothing, repurposing it and creating a styling video to show how we can make clothing work even if its damaged or old. This will also have an AI voice over to narrate the road to sustainability.
MESSAGE DEVELOPMENT 2
DECONSTRUCTING THE BINARY
-Throughout the research i done in component one i found the main things that were drawing me in was the attitidues of Generation Alpha and the way they are shaping the future through their access to information and the limitless society that they have been brought up in. With this being said, you can see the change in fashion through the way Generation Alpha is dressing and presenting themselves. Traditionally there has always been a distinct difference between womens wear and mens wear, but as of recently the lines between the two have been blurred and fashion has became a lot more androginous.
-Another main focus point for me was the origins of AI as i am aiming to create a campaign that speaks to future of the fashion industry which is becoming heavily influenced by the likes of AI. Through my research i learnt that the orgins of AI was created in 1956. So with this is mind, going forward in creating my message i want to incorprate both, AI elements and have a 1950s theme/ aesthetic to tie in the orgins of AI to show where the future is leading too.
-Looking into the 1950s i saw the clear gender divide when it came too fashion. Women were expected to be dressed elegantly and feminine wearing dresses. whereas mens fashion shifted to a more casual look, wearing t-shirts and jeans.
-So, my potential message and concept is based on deconstructing the binary and breaking those gender boundaries that were embedded in the fashion industry. I will look into making a styling video where take pieces and style them in gender neutral ways but incorporating a 1950s touch too them through accessories and colour pallettes. I will use AI voice overs to narrate the video to incorporate that aspect into my message by testing out different AI software programes to find voice narrations of my two of my picked influencers (marylin monroe, audrey hepburn, bridgitte bardot, elvis presley, james dean, marlon brando)
1950s POP CULTURE
The 1950s where a time of social change after the war which led to alot of attitude changes. The attitudes of the 1950s where characterised by a desire to rebel agaisnt authority and the societal norms pre war.
HOW DID THEY DO THIS?
pop culture became a way of rebellious expression.
-Rock and roll became one of the biggest genres of music which turned away from the jazz and blues era pre war. the Rock and roll scene was heavily influened by the likes of Chuck Berry “king of rock and roll” Elvis Presely “father of rock and roll” and Jerry Lee “the killer” all of these people went on to influence the likes of The Beatles and The Rolling Stones and where a huge pioneer to the rock and roll culture of the 1950s.
-Televisions started to become a more house hold item. the start of broadcasting led to the streaming of the likes of Panaroma which is a fortnightly magazine programme which covers current affairs. Shows that covered the war were popular as there was a fascination in understanding the war.
1950s FASHION
WOMENS WEAR
-In the late 1940s Christian Diors New Look carried through into the mid 50s was a look that was characterisied by a cinched waist and a full skirt. The silhouette was elegant and enhanced.
-As the decade progressed the silhoutte changed to a slimmer more natural shape of the body. Dior, Balenciaga, Chanel and Givenchy where emphasisng the womens naturla shape.
-Fashion leaned toweards femeninity and elegance
-Fashion influences: Marylin Monroe, Audrey Hepburn, Bridgette Bardot
MENS WEAR
-After the years of uniforms, fashion for men moved to a more casual look.
-With slim cut suits for a more formal occasion, but for day to day wear, mens fashion turned to t-shirts and jeans.
-This look was made popular by Marlon Brando in the streetcar named desire
-Leather jackets were made popular by Elvis Presley
-Fashion influences: James dean, Marlon Brando, Elvis Presley
CHILDRENS WEAR
-For young girls, they wore dresses with full skirts and matching accessories
-Smock dresses, pinafors, bold colours and patterns where typical staples in girls clothing.
-For boys, they wore jeans and shirts for most occasions
-Colourful pieces and knitwear and collared shirts where popular clothing items for boys
1950s ENVIRONMENT
The 1950s marked a significant shift in enviromentalawarness.
-Industrial growth and air pollution was caused due to the rise in manufacturing which emitted smoke and pollutants without regulation which led to the clean air act of 1956 which was the first time both, domestic and industrial smoke emmisions were regulated.
-Water pollution and chemical waste was an issue due to factories dumping waste into rivers and oceans which contaminated water suppliers and harmed wildlife habitats. This led to people being more cautious in the ways in which waste was dumped.
-Nuclear testing and enviromental consequences. The US and the USSR tested nuclear weapons during the early years of the cold war which left concerns about the lasting & long term effects of radiation.
-Public awareness of enviromental issues was on the rise due to seeing the consequences of the ways they were living and how that was effecting the enviroment.
Books and reports where being written which acted as groundwork for enviromental movements and acts to be put into place to stop making so much damages to the enviroment.
MAKE DO & MEND
A LOOK INTO THE MODERN MAKE DO AND MEND BRANDS
-For spring 2019, H&M launched a concious collection with a vision for sustainability. Each collection is made from sustainably sourced materials such as 100% organic cotton or recycled polyester. They re taking a step towards meeting their main goals which is to use only 100% recycled or other sustainabily sourced materials by 2030. This fits into my message as it shows the rise of sustainability and recycled materials which i could include into my video.
-ZARA has a join life project which ensures that 73% of the textiles they use are of lower impact with the goal of reaching 100% by 2030. 40% of their textile fibres are recycled, 25% of their textile fibres are from organic agriculture. ZARA works with other business under the “the fashion pact” to encourage enviromental sustainability in the fashion industry. This also fits into my message as it shows the move towards sustainability and recycling materials.
-LEVI’s is one of the oldest jeans manufacturors that offers tailoring and repairs done to your jeans. They offer sundries, alterations, paneling, distressing, repairs, embroidery and upcycling. This fits into my messaage as LEVIS works to mend damaged jeans and upcycle them so they dont go to waste.
-Patagonia is working on taking responsibility for the enviromental damages the fashion industry creates. They do this by making it as easy as possible to fix and repair your gear by doing it for free or even having free DIY tutorials to show you how you can fix it yourself. This fits into my message as it shows the way clothig is meant to be fixed not thrown out because of damages.
THE INFLUENCES
DECONSTRUCTING THE BINARY
GENDER NORMS AND HOW THEY ARE CHANGING?
- In the 1950s there was a clear and distinct difference when it came to how men and women acted, dressed and the expectations they where held too. For men this meant that they were expected to provide for the family through working, they were held to a lower standard of expecations and where allowed to smoke, drink and dress informally. The 1950s saw the increase in casual wear and suits and unifroms turned into t-shirts and jeans. For the women this meant they were expected to provide for the home, do the cooking and the cleaning and be a housewife and a stay at home mother, women were not granted the same amount of freedom socially or politically. This, in turn, reflected through the fashion they were expected to wear which was elegant and formal dresses or skirts with blouses.
-In recent years gender has moved towards a more equal space. Which leaves the likes of Generation Alpha to be able to blur the lines of gender norms and step into a more neutral space. Men can dress in womens wear, women can dress in mens wear, Women can have stereotypically “men” dominated roles and vice versa
WHO’S LAYING THE GROUNDWORK?
-There have been an increase in gender neutral brands such as the likes of Pleasing (Harry Styles’ life style brand) offers a range of loungewear appareal and beauty care, BODE is a gender neutral luxury brand. Telfar is also a genderless neutral brand that has the message “its not for you, its for everyone”
-As for celebrities there has been an increase in gender neutraility as a form of self expression that has been a stepping stone in normalising the decline of gender norms.Such as the likes of Harry Styles, Billy Porter, Demi Lovto, Zendaya.
INFLUENCER CULTURE
WHAT IS AN INFLUENCER?
- An influencer is an individual with the power to affeect purchasing decisions or opinions of others because of authority, knowledge, position or relationship with their audiance. Influencer / influence isnt a new concept but the platforms and scale have changed.
TYPES OF INFLUENCERS
-Mega influencers are those with over 1 million followers and have mass appeal these types of influencers tend to have an impersonal relationship online because of their wide reach.
-Macro influencers are those with 100,000 followers and have a niche expertise in their industry and reach
-Micro influencers are those with 10,000 followers and have a speciallised niche such as bakers or makeup artists
-Nano influencers are those with under 10,000 followers and have a more personal engagement becuase their more relatable.
MEGA INFLUENCER
MACRO INFLUENCER
-relatable -organic -true to herself -inspirational -intelligent
-aspirational -relatable -fashion niche -in touch
MICRO INFLUNCER
NANO INFLUENCER
-model / influncer
-makeup content -recreates makeup looks from shoots
-builds a relationship with audiance through her podcast where she talks about taboo subjects