Summer Project 2016

s um m e r Projec t A

D U O O F R E P O R T S E X P L O R I N G B R A N D S O P E R A T I N G W I T H I N A S E L E C T E D A R E A O F T H E F A S H I O N I N D U S T R Y

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Appendix Bibliography

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List of Illustrations

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R EPOR T n o . 1

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In this repor t I intend to explore the sustainable and ethical premium brand EMG (Ever ything Must Go).

I w i l l d e l v e i n t o t h e b r a n d ’s characteristics and identity through analysis of their U S P, market positioning and tone of voice. Through r e s e a r c h I w i l l d e c i p h e r E M G ’s competitors and complete a S W OT a n a l y s i s f o r e a c h b r a n d , allowing comparison of their strengths and weaknesses.

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EMG is a sustainable and ethical design initiative, who are creatively pioneering in the high-end creative cultural market. Through the production and sale of exclusive and unique designs at their pop up boutiques and exhibitions, EMG raise funds and awareness for a selection of charities and causes. Collaborative projects address different areas of concern with a main focus on humanitarian issues, such as those caused by the f a s h i o n a n d t e x t i l e i n d u s t r y, a s w e l l a s g l o b a l c h a l l e n g e s a r o u n d LG B T a n d g e n d e r e q u a l i t y.

With each new collection, a new diverse lineup of contributing designers are invited to foster discussion, creative practice and communication on larger issues that result from a demanding consumerist culture. The industr y often leaves designers and studios with vast quantities of l e f t o v e r m a t e r i a l s o f b e a u t i f u l q u a l i t y, t h e c o s t for production and purchase of which are high, n o t o n l y f i n a n c i a l l y, b u t a l s o i n o t h e r a s p e c t s such as where and how they were produced. EMG hones in on utilising remnants and reducing waste, by reassigning salvaged material to beautiful products to raise awareness for causes such as children in the work force, child abuse, w o m e n’s r i g h t s a n d t h e f a t a l h e a l t h a n d s a f e t y issues within production factories.

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EMG is positioned in the high end creative cultural market, operating as a niche brand. Their most unique characteristic i s t h e i r s u s t a i n a b l e p r o d u c t r a n g e o f S a l v a g e Te e s a n d drawstring bags, made from repurposed garments and o f f c u t s f r o m s o m e o f L o n d o n’s m o s t e c c e n t r i c d e s i g n e r s .

Being a sustainable brand brings EMG into a niche market, with their collaboration with designers creating a unique selling point, alongside their charitable suppor t work with Tr a i d a n d C h i l d H o p e . T h e i r s p e c i a l t y Te e s a r e t i e d i n w i t h their brand persona, which is fun but responsible; taking action in response to the many global issues surrounding garment manufacturing, waste and human rights.

EMG have formed their own niche through limiting what t h e y c r e a t e t o o n l y Ts h i r t s a n d d r a w s t r i n g b a g s . T h i s r e s u l t s in a limited product range in terms of garment/accessor y style, however the fabric designs and patterns are ver y d i v e r s e a n d u n i q u e , c r e a t i n g a “o n e o f a k i n d ” a p p e a l . N o t only are they falling under the sustainable and ethical niche, but also the entire brand is unisex, bringing them into the unisex clothing market, which currently remains n i c h e . B e i n g a u n i s e x b r a n d e n d o r s e s w h a t t h e y s t a n d f o r, s u p p o r t i n g LG B T r i g h t s a n d g e n d e r e q u a l i t y t h r o u g h t h e i r c r e a t i v i t y a n d s t a t e m e n t T ’s . T h e b r a n d s v i s u a l i d e n t i t y reflects their open mindedness using diverse models of both genders to display the same products.

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- Sustainable - Strong principles - Collaborations with designers - Supports charities for garment factory workers children - Unisex - LGBT and gender equality - Unique product range - Thought provoking slogan Tees - Clean likeable website and branding - Purchase through website

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Links to social media accounts are not on website Social media accounts not easy to locate The brand is only awake over the few weeks when the pop up shop is open - No details as to when next pop up or collections will be taking place

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More pop up or permanent stores Better Social Media engagement Zoom function on product page on website

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Last post on instagram 11 weeks ago Last activity on Twitter was in May Infrequent posts on Facebook

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The visual elements to the brand are well thought o u t a n d c o n c i s e ; t h e r a n g e o f S a l v a g e Te e s a r e colour ful, bold and expressive. The branding is mostly minimal and contemporary aligning with its upmarket position. Their product and model shots are vibrant reflecting the fun and colour ful hear t of the brand, but with a minimal slant. This combines the sleek high end branding and website with the e x u b e r a n c e o f t h e p a t t e r n e d Te e s .

EMG have a specific tone of voice of the brand, which is asser tive and passionate which the millennial t a r g e t g e n e r a t i o n c a n r e l a t e t o, e v o k i n g t h e f e e l i n g that there is change to be made, and they are the ones to do it. They use a moderately relaxed and personal tone whilst remaining professional, as though they are speaking directly to the reader i n a f r i e n d l y m a n n e r. T h i s c o m e s t h r o u g h i n t h e i r literature, for example, “ We a r e s o e x c i t e d ” “ i t s a l l a b o u t h o w y o u r o c k i t ” This tone of voice continues to emulate through the brand visuals, where the models are styled and posed in slightly unconventional ways, such as big grins, plants on heads and looking natural, which begins to eliminate exclusivity of the brand. The shoot images are inviting to browse over; with a lack of high fashion seriousness it is clear the models enjoyed the shoot, which contains a strong element of fun echoing the brands persona.

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They are a mid twenties lover of Fa s h i o n a n d t h e w o r l d a r o u n d t h e m .

They seek to express their vibrant personality through carefully sourced clothing and accessories that are unique and responsibly made.

Pa s s i o n a t e a b o u t t h e d a m a g e w e are causing to the ear th, they enjoy exploring sustainable alternatives to fast fashion. A lover of the people, they are a favoured individual, spending their time with friends, family and new acquaintances; always aspiring to help anyone in need.

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T H E D E F I N E D TA R G E T M A R K E T F O R E M G A R E : •

Fa s h i o n C o n s c i o u s ,

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Ethical and Sustainability aware

• Individual • Millennials • Responsible • Vibrant •

Enjoys: travel, reading, music, keeping up to date with current affairs, a good party

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Looks for function as well as fashion

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Conscious of the world around

• Pa s s i o n a t e

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EMGs main competitors are all situated in the high end Fi g u r e 6

sustainable market, and have been identified as Auria, Katie Jones, and Birdsong. Auria creates sustainable swimwear from discarded fishing nets, which is innovative yet playfully styled to flatter the modern woman. Having featured their collections at pop up stores alongside EMG, Auria are reaching to the same market, which makes the two brands competitors, despite the var ying products. Both Auria and EMG are sustainable and ethical through their utilization of recycled materials and the majority of their garments being constructed in London studios. Katie J o n e s i s a l u x u r y k n i t w e a r d e s i g n e r, w h o s e e t h o s r e v o l v e s a r o u n d sustainable fashion and ar tisan handcraft work, working with surplus products and reclaimed garments in her London based s t u d i o. S i m i l a r t o E M G , K a t i e J o n e s s o u r c e s l a r g e q u a n t i t i e s o f her materials from designer surplus as well as consumer waste and British made product. Although each brand is responsibly creating beautiful products in the UK whilst being resourceful and conscious of the damage the industr y creates, EMG are taking it one step fur ther by suppor ting charities relating to garment manufacturing overseas.

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Another brand that reaches fur ther than the UK is Birdsong. Created by three young feminists, Birdsong focus on fair trade for the variety of groups of women w o r k i n g f o r t h e m g l o b a l l y, w h i l s t c h a l l e n g i n g t h e m e d i a s perception of women using their campaigns and slogan “n o s w e a t s h o p s , n o p h o t o s h o p”. D e s p i t e t h e i r f o c u s b e i n g less on sustainable products, they are ver y orientated towards the ethical end of the scale; this is why they a r e E M G s m a i n c o m p e t i t o r. T h e i r s u p p o r t f o r g r o u p s o f w o m e n m a k e r s a r o u n d t h e w o r l d a n d r e a c h f o r e q u a l i t y, alongside their battle against the media and passionate v i e w s , e c h o t h a t o f E M G . T h e ‘p e o p l e p a s s i o n’ t i e s t h e s e b r a n d s t o g e t h e r, a l t h o u g h o n e p u s h i n g LG B T r i g h t s a n d t h e o t h e r f e m a l e e q u a l i t y.

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• No photoshop • No sweatshops • Fair trade to workers and creators • Nice branding • Easy to navigate and aesthetically pleasing website • Supporting women workers globally • Strong morals • Beautiful products – with back stories • Each brand has a story on the website • Blog • Social media accounts on website • Frequently updated social media

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Some magazine pages very full, borderline cluttered Some text pages do not have numbering and category information, slowing down navigation and giving a disjointed feel Website banner GIF out of date Use of template website causes:

Generic aesthetic

Empty space at odds with the magazine’s ‘encyclopaedic’ style of clutter

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Expansion of website design to look more unique. This could include a tailored style that better represents the magazine’s appeal Experiment with white space Website banner is very small and simple.

A larger and more elaborate design would more effectively grab the attention of passing browsers, and give immediate feedback to returning readers when the site is regularly updated

Ads in magazine ruining aesthetic Clutter over-diluting the reader’s potential interest Generic website layout may cause potential readers to overlook it

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Going for ward, Birdsong is a constantly functioning brand, which provides constant suppor t for its makers and women around the world, whereas EMG i s m a i n l y f u n c t i o n i n g d u r i n g i t ’s p o p u p s e a s o n .

Birdsong provide more product shots on their s i t e o f e a c h g a r m e n t / a c c e s s o r y, E M G t e n d t o h a v e two basic shots, however both may benefit from a zoom function. Despite products being available online at EMG there are no effor ts to push sales via social media, compared to Birdsong who have a l i v e l y p r e s e n c e . E M G h a v e t h e a b i l i t y, t a l e n t , products and morals to continue making changes and be a leader in the high end market, allowing other brands to follow in their stylish ethical and sustainable footsteps.

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Fo r t h i s r e p o r t I h a d p r e v i o u s l y intended to continue researching into sustainable brands, this time p u b l i c at i o n s. H owe ve r, i t h a s b e e n ve r y difficult to find a suitable publication that is still being produced and is not i n t h e l u x u r y s e c t o r. A f t e r a l e n g t h o f time I decided to change my course o f r e s e a r c h t o Fa s h i o n a n d M u s i c magazines where I encountered many more relevant publications. My next problem arrived when reviewing the magazines to get an idea of their aesthetics, layout and content as I had an eagerness to write about a publication I admire. The majority of the publications require payment to digitally download or purchase a printed copy with ver y few showing previews or availability on issuu. com.

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One of the publications I had picked out was Subbacultcha, they are not strictly fashion but they are stylish with their manifesto revolving around emerging art and musical talent locally (Amsterdam/ Rotterdam) and worldwide. I first encountered Subbacultcha when I was travelling in the Netherlands l a s t y e a r, i t w a s i n a q u i r k y Rotterdam hostel amongst a pile of beautiful looking magazines, leaflets and postcards - all free.

I was immediately intrigued and picked up a copy for a quite m o m e n t l a t e r. I t w a s p r i n t e d o n uncoated 100gsm paper and was over 70 pages long, exhibiting an array of interesting photography and imagery highlighting the emerging talent.

The publication I had picked up was issue number one, they have since produced 4 more as they operate as a quar terly magazine, I look for ward to seeing how they have progressed in the p u b l i c a t i o n s o v e r t h e y e a r. T h e platform itself has been running since 2005, mainly online along side gigs, club nights and exhibitions they run in the Netherlands. They have also begun a Belgian division of the platform, where they curate events, gigs and exhibitions alongside their monthly publication, this can be found on the main Subbacultcha site by clicking ‘BE’ on the top right.

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Subbacultcha is an SME company positioned in the p u b l i s h i n g s e c t o r. O n e o f t h e b r a n d ’s m o s t u n i q u e characteristics would be t h e i r m o n t h l y m e m b e r s h i p, allowing members access to all shows events and publications, as well as other p e r k s . Wo r k i n g c l o s e l y w i t h independent record labels and venues, the initiative work to promote unconventional and unruly artists at the start of t h e i r c a r e e r. S p e c i a l i s i n g i n organising progressive shows, making print publications and curating exhibitions, their loyal community of members have allowed Subbacultcha to set in place a unique system. This enables them to introduce a large and diverse young audience to the music, ar t, film and photography that they trust.

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Having begun in 2005, Subbacultcha have formed their brand identity and refined it over the years, resulting in an identifiable niche style evident in their publications and online. Their unique membership system allows consumers to fully engage with the initiative without costing too much, opening the spectrum of the audience and members to a wide range of creative and inquisitive people alike, from an array of backgrounds and ages.

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S T R E N G T H • Knowledgeable of their field • Stylish • Creative • Collaborations with artists • Clean likeable website and branding • Non discriminative • Publication: NL Quarterly, BE monthly • Regularly updated social media • Shows and Events • Support of local and emerging artists and musicians • Monthly membership available with good perks • Links to social media on website • Belgian division • Publication themes: trending music, youth culture, arts, fashion and design • Publications on Issuu.com • Radio show and online playlists • Blog

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• Could be cliquey • Other printed publications could be more accessible

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The visual elements of the brand are of consistent styles and mood; photography is usually playful, relaxed

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s t e a d y, w i t h t h e s a m e f o n t s u s e d o n l i n e a n d i n print. Overall the brand uses minimal layouts and concise colour schemes making features clear to read and differentiate between, par ticularly on the website.

S u b b a c u l t c h a’s t o n e o f v o i c e i s i n t e l l i g e n t , b u t relaxed, their passion for the subject flowing through ever y sentence. They are not overly formal, but write asser tively with a range of vocabular y a l l o w i n g t h e r e a d e r t o t a k e t h e i r t o p i c s s e r i o u s l y, s o m e t i m e s w i t h a s u b t l e s e n s e o f h u m o u r. T h e y are mature whilst being young and optimistic, their editorial informative with just a touch of playfulness. Their tone of voice relates directly to their target audience and members, who follow the platform for their knowledge and creative offerings.

The tone of voice reflects through the brand visuals, which are laid back and organised. Their social media accounts are ver y clean, often with promotional

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photographs, but often in a style that makes the images personal as if the photographer is capturing their group of friends whilst hanging out. The people in their imager y are within their target market portraying the openness of the platform, as they are all regular people this e l i m i n a t e s e x c l u s i v i t y.

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“Sign up for Subbacultcha now a n d we’ l l l o ve yo u f o r e ve r.

S e r i o u s l y. B e c a u s e i t ’s t h e m e m b e r s t h a t m a k e e ve r y t h i n g h a p p e n . Wi t h yo u r m o n t h l y m e m b e r s h i p f e e, we g e t t o promote the ar t and music that we l o ve. Yo u e n a b l e u s t o b o o k great ar tists, make publications, organise exhibitions, and all the r e s t . I n r e t u r n , yo u g e t a c c e s s t o a l l o f o u r e ve n t s , a s u b s c r i p t i o n to our growing roster of p u b l i c a t i o n s a n d m o r e.”

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T A R G E T G R O U P : The Subbacultcha audience are young and educated with a soft spot for the ar ts and an eclectic taste in music. As well as sharing a love for print publications, they share the commitment and suppor t for young, up-and- coming ar tists. The audience is comprised of mostly ar tists, musicians, readers, writers, students, and professionals working in creative industries and media.

M E M B E R S : Members of Subbacultcha represent the ideal audience of the initiative.

They are a dynamic and complex community of people passionate about music and art, supporting the platform with a monthly fee of €8. They receive free access to Subbacultcha shows and events, their own copy of the quarterly publication along side additional goodies and perks. They challenge and inspire, as the future of Subbacultcha is gradually moulded.

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T H E D E F I N E D M A R K E T A R E :

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Location: Amsterdam, Rotterdam, Utrecht, Groningen, The Hague, Belgium

• Creative • Cultural • Individual • Intelligent •

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Enjoys: music, ar t, travel, fashion, reading, keeping up to date with current affairs, a good par ty

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Identifying competitors for Subbacultcha is no easy feat.

Currently there is no organization like them in the UK, or in the Netherlands. Instead looking at other music and ar ts magazines and platforms, there is an enormous range to choose from. One o f S u b b a c u l t c h a’s u n i q u e s e l l i n g p o i n t s i s t h e i r p e r s i s t e n c e t o find and suppor t emerging ar tists, therefore their competitor w i l l b e d o i n g s o m e t h i n g s i m i l a r. T h i s e l i m i n a t e s s o m e w e l l known magazines that only promote fully established and popular music/ar ts. Aesthetica, Idol, The Unlimited, Kaltblut, H u c k a n d Fu s e d c o u l d a l l b e c o n s i d e r e d c o m p e t i t o r s .

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Huck Magazine have a similar ethos to Subbacultcha and are also targeted at millennials, suppor ting independent culture, people and movements that go against the n o r m a l f l o w. H u c k s e e k s o u t f r e e t h i n k e r s , r o a m i n g t h e globe to document grassroots counterculture as it unfolds with those who are bursting with new thoughts and ideas. Their focus is on bike and board spor ts, travel, perspectives and ar t and culture, which include: a r t , m u s i c , p h o t o g r a p h y, p r i n t , s t y l e . T h e i r s i t e i s v e r y accessible with a vast array or information, opinions and creativity ; this runs alongside their print magazine produced ever y two months and available to buy for ÂŁ6.

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Strong principles Concern for the environment Nice branding Easy to navigate and aesthetically pleasing website • Print magazine looks nice • Social media accounts on website • Frequently updated social media • Informative

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• People on the road (part of target market) will be unable to obtain copies of the magazine • Other more specific magazines competition

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Although Huck and Subbacultcha have similar aspirations, the two function slightly differently ; Huck is mass market, covering global ar ts and culture, whereas Subbacultcha hone in on local communities.

Both have a keen eye for creative ability and finding idiosyncratic talent amid a crowd o f m o n o t o n o u s n o r m a l i t y. A s S u b b a c u l t c h a are a smaller organization, the ser vice of t h e m e m b e r s h i p, w e b s i t e a n d p u b l i c a t i o n all feel more personal, despite being accessible to thousands of people. The monthly membership is not something that is available in the UK and for such a small price, it is unknown if it is something that would even be considered here. However I do believe there is a gap for a specialist platform like Subbacultcha alongside the s e r v i c e s t h e y o f f e r.

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Elissa Flynn e l i s s a s u m m e r p r o j e c t . t u m b l r. c o m