Wanderer 2018-2019

A PUBLICATION CREATED BY TRAVEL WRITING PERU AND VISUAL COMMUNICATION STUDENTS

PERU ON FOUR LEGS

AGUASCALIENTES, NOT THAT HOT

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FALL | WINTER 2018

MEETING SEÑOR SALTADO INCAS

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DON'T TALK TO ME THE 3 FACES OF THE CUY THE ART OF BARGAINING WHITE IS THE COLOR TO BE

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CHICAGO FEMINIST FILM FESTIVAL

Film Row Cinema 1104 S. Wabash Ave. 8th floor

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Feb. 27-March 1, 2019

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WRITERS | PHOTOGRAPHERS CAROLYN BRADLEY JORDAN CLAY EMMA JENSEN SOPHIE POKORNY LIZZIE LEBOW KHYLA WALLACE

FALL | WINTER 2018

enaca once said travel and change of place impart new vigor to the mind. That seems to be the case for the six Columbia College students who traveled to Peru earlier this year. They returned to Chicago with new insights about art, food, dogs, racism, staying young – and much more.

The stories you see here in our 2018 issue put the spotlight on a range of issues and subjects, including:

• How the elders of Lima are staying young through dance • The pervasive Eurocentrism found in Peruvian advertising • Street artists who bring color to the city • Catholicism and gay rights at odds in South America • Guinea pigs, dogs and alpacas — animal life in Peru • The art of bargaining on the busy streets of Lima • Tourism — both a blessing and a curse — in Machu Picchu • The ubiquitous potato, which originated not in Ireland or Idaho but Peru • Sexism rears its ugly head for female tourists • The rise and fall of the Inca empire, in only 100 years • The many lessons learned when traveling far beyond home A special thanks to Elio Leturia, who took the students to his native homeland and shepherded these stories from inception to completion. He also worked closely with 15 students studying visual communication whose designs you also see here. Thanks to longtime journalist Nancy Traver, who assisted with the editing, as well as Mary Mattucci, who helped with proof reading. Kudos also to recent graduate Michelle Yu who worked and reworked the layouts.

We believe that studying abroad complements a well-rounded education by giving our students the opportunity to experience, first-hand, other places in the world. This is the third time Peru has been a destination offered in our Communication Department, and students have soaked up the exciting opportunity navigating a different culture in a different language reporting, writing and documenting their experiences.

We hope you enjoy reading the latest issue of Wanderer — the 11th edition produced since 2010 — and learn as much as we did about Peru and the joys of traveling. Let us know what stories you think our students should tell in Wanderer’s next issue.

— SUZANNE M c BRIDE , Chair, Department of Communication

Communication

DESIGN EDITORS CLORICE BAIR LARISSA BORROR REBECCA CASEY KENNY COLEMAN CHASE CONNER CIMONE DAILEY JULIA JANIZEWSKI MADELINE LOCKART ANJALI PAUL ANAÍS MORÓN-SÁNCHEZ CHRISTIAN SALVUCCI GABRIELA SZCEPANIEC GUADALUPE VALENZUELA MARIAH WILBAT MICHELLE YU COVER EMMA JENSEN | STEVE KRASON LAYOUT EDITOR MICHELLE YU EDITING NANCY TRAVER PROOFREADING MARY MATTUCCI PAGINATION JAVIER SUÁREZ FACULTY ADVISER ELIO LETURIA DEPARTMENT CHAIR SUZANNE MCBRIDE

This publication has been possible thanks to the support of the Communication Department of Columbia College Chicago, 33 Ida B. Wells Drive, Chicago, Ill. 60605 Phone 312.369.8900 SPECIAL THANKS Tabata Matos Freelance photographer | Paulo Puma, Tourism guide-Cusco | Luis Calderón, Tourism guide-Lima | Diego del Corral, External Study-Abroad Associate

PLEASE RECYCLE

Wanderer is a student-produced magazine. It does not necessarily represent, in whole or in part, the views of college administrators, faculty, the Journalism Program or the student body as a whole. student wanderer

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Photos SOPHIE POKORNY | ELIO LETURIA

Clockwise: Llamas in Machu Picchu. Cuesta de San Blas Street in Cusco. The beaches in Lima. Marinera, the national dance of Peru. Street painters in Miraflores.

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inside

FALL | WINTER 2018

6 RHYTHM OF THE SOUL

18 WHITE IS THE COLOR TO BE

How the elders of Lima are staying young. Lizzie Lebow

Eurocentrism in Peruvian advertising does not represent the local population. Khyla Wallace | STREET PHOTOS Tabata Matos

8 PERU ON FOUR LEGS Ride a llama, buy an alpaca sweater, hang out in the park with tons of feline friends and enjoy a morning walk with the company of a few stray dogs.

MAKING A CLOSE FRIEND Carolyn Bradley THE STREET DOG FREE LIFE Carolyn Bradley

20 GAYS BEAR THE CROSS IN PERU

PRECIOUS FUR BALLS AND A LAMB

Carolyn Bradley & Jordan Clay

Hues and meaning on the other side of the Equator STORY AND PHOTOS Khyla Wallace

10 WHEN IN PERU…

24 POTAYTO? POTAHTO? PERUVIAN PAPA!

One must always be prepared for the ups and downs of travel.

IT’S ALL IN YOUR HEAD Sophie Pokorny BEING A TOURISTY TOURIST Emma Jensen DON’T TALK TO ME Khyla Wallace A CHANGE OF PACE Emma Jensen

12 A TASTE OF PERU

Catholicism and gay rights do not find harmony in this South American country. Carolyn Bradley

22 COLORS ACROSS THE SEA

The ubiquitous potato, native to Peru, got to the United States with a stopover in Europe. Emma Jensen

26 FOOD, MEDICINE & ENTERTAINMENT The different faces of the cuy, our Guinea pig.

Sophie Pokorny

Eating in this Latin American country is much tastier than you could have ever imagined.

THE CHINESE-PERUVIAN EXPERIENCE Lizzie Lebow PIZZA IN LIMA Lizzie Lebow IRRESISTIBLE DESSERTS Jordan Clay MEETING SR. SALTADO Lizzie Lebow DINING IN PARADISE Lizzie Lebow SEA AND FRESH Lizzie Lebow

30 HOT SPRINGS, NOT THAT HOT

14 BARGAINING, A SHAMELESS HUSTLE.

32 TOURISM IN MACHU PICCHU: BLESSING OR CURSE?

But a valuable skill for maneuvering Lima’s streets “TWO FOR S/.20, MY QUEENS!” Sophie Pokorny HAGGLING AT THE MARKET Jordan Clay RESTAURANT RECRUITMENT Jordan Clay

16 SUNSHINE ON CANVAS Every weekend, street artists in Miraflores bring more color to the city. STORY AND PHOTOS Jordan Clay

28 ALPACAS FOR ALL BUDGETS You come to Peru, you leave with alpacas. Lizzie Lebow

Aguascalientes, a required stop on the way to Machu Picchu, is quaint and chaotic.

STORY AND PHOTOS Sophie Pokorny

How tourism is benefiting and polluting Machu Picchu.

Emma Jensen

34 EMPIRE OF 100 YEARS The rise and fall of the Inca Empire: How the culture survived.

Jordan clay

This issue of Wanderer magazine is a collaborative project produced by Visual Communication and Travel Writing Peru students.

Both courses are offered in the Journalism Program, Communication Department, Columbia College Chicago.

Visual Communication students edited, designed and laid out each story as their final course project, and Travel Writing students reported and wrote the stories providing photography for them, while traveling in Lima, Cusco and Machu Picchu in Peru.

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R Y M T H H

OF

BY LIZZIE LEBOW

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was trying to take pictures in Kennedy Park in Miraflores when all of a sudden I was swept onto a circular dance floor.

A man in his 80s, in his Sunday best pinstripe shirt and khakis, took my hand gently and led me to the center of the dance floor so we could enjoy the dance that is much loved in Peru, the salsa.

My partner, Julius, guided me through the moves. I followed his steps, and he smiled with a wrinkled grin as I tripped over my feet. He twirled, shimmied and hummed. When the song was over, he gave me a hug, kissed me on the cheek and waved at me as I walked away.

In those brief minutes, my dance partner had transported me to a space I had never been before.

This is not an unusual event for the people of Miraflores, in Lima, Peru.

Julius is one of dozens who partake in the end-of-the-week dancing in central Miraflores. In Kennedy Park every weekend, dozens of older couples gather informally to dance among the crowds and trees. A DJ arrives and plays light rhythms for the group as they bop along. There are only smiles from both the dancers and the onlookers.

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PHOTOS BY LIZZIE LEBOW

H T

E

SO U

How the elders of Lima are staying young

For older Peruvians, dancing is a fun and social way to meet people, exercise and enjoy life. Salsa music is one of their favorites.

LEFT Lebow and Julius dancing together.

Little does much of the audience know, this salsa program, Tercera Edad, or Third Age, was established to support the physical and mental health of Miraflores’s older population. As the website states, this is necessary because older people, “are more prone to suffer from problems and diseases due to the aging of their age.” Dancing is good for the body, keeping muscles healthy and strong and

warding off feelings of loneliness. Here, the neighborhood's older citizens can forget their age-related ailments and feel young again.

Tercera Edad initiated the effort 14 years ago, and since then the event has only grown.

Residents and tourists alike cannot help but stop and watch.

A salsa enthusiast, Juan Sandoval, observes from outside the circle. He watches the dancers,

waiting to make his entrance.

Juan has been coming to dance in the park for years. “I like to look for a younger woman to dance with,” he jokes. “Then we dance for hours.” Sandoval said this program has really helped older people in the community. He said, Luis Enrique, like Sandoval, is a weekly dancer at Kennedy Park. He departs the dancing ring exhausted but with a smile

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on his face. He says he learned salsa here and has been attending the weekly event for over a year. He is from the Peruvian department of Amazonas in northern Peru, but since moving to Lima, he has enjoyed all the city has to offer, including its dance scene. “The people here love to dance,” he says with a grin. He comes every Sunday hoping to scoop up a new partner. Each weekend, the festivities and the music brighten his day.

One evening, tourists huddled around the scene, taking in all they could.

I managed to speak to a few.

A couple in their 20s, David and Lily, watched the salsa dancing intently. They were visiting from the North German city of Hamburg, and they were excited to see something different from home. “We dance in Germany,” Lily says, laughing, “but not like this.” David adds, “We like the music, too.”

I watched the 80-somethings hop and spin to the rhythm of the music with brightly colored clothing and smiles on their faces. They moved smoothly and giggled like young kids. It became clear to me then that age is only a state of mind.

—Designed by Anjali Paul

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Making a close friend

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BY CAROLYN BRADLEY

hile I’m excited by any chance to explore a new city, I grow attached to a place that is familiar, even for a few short days. Having a park with adventurous and kind stray cats made the city of Lima a special place for me. Naturally, I had to venture to this wonderful spot one last time before leaving this big city. Just for a few brief minutes, I told myself.

The street dog free life

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BY CAROLYN BRADLEY

eruvian animals are not shy with residents or visitors. I noticed this when I first arrived in Lima. In the town of Aguas Calientes, there were many dogs in the shop doorways and on curbs. Some even waited in line with us for the bus.

Our tour guide, Paulo Puma, explained that Peruvian pets were well cared for but not bound by leash laws, which allowed them to be friendly with strangers.

There were quite a few

small- to medium-sized dogs near the shops, as well as a few cats. They all seemed relaxed as they took in the sunshine, not worried about losing their owners or making a fuss. Their calm demeanors were contagious; being around these small residents made me feel welcome.

Of course, I wanted to spend more time with each of these pets. But there were even more sights to see and more animals to meet. It warmed my heart to see these happy pets being so friendly with tourists from all over the world. Meeting these furry friends was such a pure experience.

Many things excite me about being in a new country. The familiarity of being surrounded by animals was fascinating and a relief; animals are almost like a home away from home.

CAROLYN BRADLEY

CAROLYN BRADLEY

A stray cat roams around in Parque Kennedy, in the heart of the Miraflores district.

I wandered through the main road of Kennedy Park, greeting the many cats I saw with either a pat on the head or a final photo. Toward the end of my stroll, I sat down on the walkway near three cats.

One of them looked familiar. It was an orange tabby kitten I had played hide-and-seek with just a few days before. I remembered him being really shy, but I was curious as to whether he’d recognize me.

A group of friends approached the orange kitten.

One woman coaxed him closer to her with leftover chicharrón (deep fried pork), which he was not shy about enjoying.

The woman seemed quite satisfied that she had won his affection and encouraged him to finish his meal. I looked on, admiring the transaction: food was being used as currency for love.

The group eventually left, and the kitten sat down after finishing his meal. I watched him as he licked his chops.

Suddenly, he turned around and looked at me. The unexpected happened: he walked toward me and climbed onto my lap, meowing hello. I was shocked; this was the first time a stray cat had been so close to me. I felt him purr, and it was not long before he fell asleep in my lap. I was surprised and elated; I had made a new friend in a new country!

I had promised to be back by 10 p.m., which I had assumed would be easy. My friend thought otherwise. He grabbed my leg as I tried to leave. It was a difficult farewell, but something tells me he won’t be my last close feline friend.

Khyla Wallace pets two stray dog in Aguascalientes, at the foot of Machu Picchu, in Cusco, Peru.

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Peru on

Precious fur balls and a lamb

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lamas and alpacas are treated almost as Peruvian mascots. Every market offers an array of products that feature alpaca fur: sweaters, socks, slippers, rugs, gloves, hats, blankets and even little handmade alpacastuffed animals.

As I found out during one market visit in the town of Urubamba, an authentic “baby alpaca” sweater— that is, a sweater made from the first

In Peru, animals are just as much a part of the culture as the people. Ride a llama, buy a sweater made from alpaca fur, hang out in the park with tons of feline friends and enjoy a morning walk with the company of a few stray dogs.

Animals and Peruvians live in harmony with each other, and have each created a home where the other is welcome.

shearing of an alpaca —costs up to 400 soles ($125). We became acquainted with alpaca fur products almost immediately upon our arrival in Peru; however, it wasn’t until we flew to Cusco that we got the chance to meet the guests of honor in the flesh.

At an alpaca-breeding farm on the way to Urubamba, we met many alpacas face to face.

We quickly learned the easiest way to score the perfect selfie with these somber fluffballs is to wave some food that looked like alfalfa, just a little beyond their reach.

They certainly enjoyed it.

They were not shy about their food or getting their photos taken. Some were willing to join in for selfies, others posed for portraits, and a few were well suited for some candid shots. So long as they had their food from their tourist friends, they were almost always willing to cooperate.

Later that day, we went to a market in Pisac and got lost in a nearby shop. I walked around the market and successfully located a much less expensive, but just as fly, baby alpaca sweater. As I gathered my final purchases, a native Quechua woman and her daughter came up to me holding a beautifully adorned lamb. She kindly let us hold her lamb so we could take pictures. It was so soft and doc-

LIZZIE LEBOW

BY CAROLYN BRADLEY & JORDAN CLAY

Alpacas, llamas and vicuñas live together at the Awanakancha Textile farm near Pisac, Cusco.

ile and seemed as if she made a good pet.

Our encounters with alpacas didn’t end there, fortunately. Upon arrival in Urubamba, we stopped for a buffet lunch.

In the garden behind the restaurant, we found two precious alpacas. Collectively, we named one “Penélope” for her quirky attitude and the other “Café” for her coffee-colored fur.

Llamas, taller and with pointy ears, are quite charis-

matic animals, and unlike many furry friends, they seem to know when you want to take a picture. Sometimes they’ll pose, and other times they’ll look away. A man sitting down for a banana break at Machu Picchu played Find The Banana with a local llama, which was entertaining to watch. I give the llama credit: she seemed pretty talented at the game.

—Design by Clorice Bair

four legs

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WHEN IN PERU 2

wanderer | Season 201x

One must always be It’s all in your head

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BY SOPHIE PORKORNY

had been to high altitudes. At least I thought I had. Maybe I’m remembering things differently. Maybe these places were not as high as I had thought.

In the days leading up to traveling to Cusco, our group had discussed fears of altitude sickness or “soroche,” as Peruvians call it. Some had brought medicine. I didn’t bother. I was positive that I wouldn’t get sick. I had been on mountain tops before.

On the morning of Jan. 12, we boarded a plane to Cusco (altitude 11,152 feet). When we claimed our baggage, I began to feel strange. I tried to push it out of my mind, determined that I wouldn’t get sick. I ignored the sign announcing “Three Leaves Free” (coca leaves) at the entrance of baggage claim. However, I

still felt some kind of lightheadedness. Or maybe it was some kind of pressure. The feeling was hard to describe.

Then one of the students asked how we were feeling. All I could say was that I felt something.

We arrived at the hotel, and I walked quickly to my room to put my luggage away.

I remember feeling suddenly winded, breathing as if I had just sprinted across the hallway.

I realized I was feeling the altitude more than I thought.

All I wanted to do was sleep, but we forced ourselves to get up and go out for the planned activity of the day.

We were to visit the Qorikancha (Temple of the Sun) and the Cathedral of Cusco.

The tour guide promised that what we were feeling was mostly in our heads. All I could think about was the fact that they lived here. I accepted the offered coca tea hoping it would help.

Our guide was eager to hear our questions, but we were all exhausted, feeling the altitude. It was hard to stand for too long; all of us were light-headed and quiet. We ended the day and apologized for our lack of excitement and promised that the next day we would be much more awake.

DESIGNED AND ILLUSTRATED BY LARISSA BORROR

Being a touristy tourist

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BY EMMA JENSEN

hile I was living in Germany, I was frequently worried about looking like an American tourist. “Do I look too American?” I would ask my host sister. I would adapt my clothing to German style and would avoid taking too many photos in public. I enjoyed pretending I knew what I was doing and fitting in with the locals.

In Peru, I was very obviously a tourist. I didn’t blend in, and I got a stupid, wide-eyed blank look on my face when someone spoke to me in Spanish. At first, this made me uncomfortable.

I hated the label of being a tourist.

Eventually, I learned to embrace this feeling. There was no way I could avoid it. For every person who is rude to tourists, there are a thousand who are kind. I wore my ugly, comfy hiking boots and kept my camera strapped around my body, taking photos and videos of everything. In retrospect, I’m glad I did because my feet were comfortable, and I have a million photos to look back on.

prepared for the ups and downs of travel.

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Don’t talk to me

BY KHYLA WALLACE

atcalling is an international epidemic among women. It seems no matter how we dress, whether it is modestly or not, men seem to feel the need to express their desire toward us.

Unsolicited male attention is something that frightens me in the U.S. but even more so

when I’m overseas. Regardless of this, as one of my classmates said recently, “‘No’ is a universal term.” For whatever reason, though, men either can’t comprehend when we tell them “no,” or they just simply don’t give a damn.

Catcalling in Peru varied. Men in a car shouted things such as “Ayo, shorty with the glasses.”

A change of pace

feel that in order to fully reflect on our travels, I need to acknowledge the aspects I didn’t enjoy.

I love Peru; the culture is wonderful and I had a really good time. However, two things stood out to me in contrast to what I experience in Chicago.

The first is that I noticed the pace in Lima is a lot slower than what I’m used to. People walk a lot slower. Being tall and typically in a rush, I felt I was constant-

BY EMMA JENSEN

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Others whistled or blew kisses.

I can say with 100 percent certainty that I was not interested.

In one incident, I was walking alone to our hotel after a failed attempt at visiting a gay bar by Parque Kennedy.

Crossing the street, being mindful of my surroundings, a man whistled and said, “Ay, chocolate.” My initial response

was to turn around and suck my teeth. I would have wanted to so much more, swear at him or flip the bird, but I remembered that I was alone in a foreign country. I wasn’t certain about how he would have reacted to that, even though it’s something I wouldn’t hesitate to do in certain places in the U.S.

ly running into others and trying to weave around people. Also, the service was a lot slower. Dinners usually took at least two hours, and even just stopping to get a coffee would take almost 30 minutes.

The slower pace is something I could probably get used to. On the other hand, I would never be able to get used to the harassment. Men slowed down in their cars and yelled out the windows. They spoke to me

as they walked by on the sidewalk. A man made kissing noises inches from my face while I was strolling through Lima with my classmates. I merely rolled my eyes. I’m used to being catcalled in Chicago; however, I felt men were more aggressive in Lima.

Still, I love Peru. And I believe that experiencing cultural differences is one of the most important parts of traveling.

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A taste

Eating in this Latin American country is much tastier than you could have ever imagined.

Pizza in Lima

BY LIZZIE LEBOW

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ELIO LETURIA

Chinese-Peruvian fare is varied, quite tasty and includes local ingredients.

The ChinesePeruvian experience

BY LIZZIE LEBOW

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one of us knew what we were in for when we arrived in the bustling streets of downtown Lima.

Luis Calderón, our guide, led us through the chaos. We walked along the crowded streets of Chinatown (Calle Capón) until we arrived at the buffet oasis. Ogling the giant table of food, we prepared to eat as much as we could in the allotted two hours.

I didn’t really know what to expect from Peruvian Chinese food. Back in the U.S., Chinese food is mostly inauthentic fried meats in soy sauces and rice.

Peruvian Chinese food has adapted to use local ingredients. Quail eggs sat alongside appetizers. Fish and tropical fruits like maracuyá (passion fruit) were used because they are readily available.

I had a good time tasting the ChinesePeruvian food. At the end of the day, the cuisine was a tasty treat.

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hen you think of Peruvian food, you might not include pizza. The well-known dish is more often associated with Italy or Chicago.

After trying many delicious Peruvian dishes in Lima, we decided to go in a different direction: a small Italian restaurant named Dolce Capriccio (dc. com.pe.)

We were seated next to the pastry case, and the cheesecakes taunted us. I was tempted to ask for a piece of cake for dinner, but I managed to resist and ordered a Margherita pizza instead.

The cheese oozed off the edges, and the tomatoes were delightfully salty. Still, all I could think about was the chocolate cake in the dessert case. I could not help but give in to its charms.

A decadent two-layer cake of devil’s food and mousse, completely worth the 12 soles ($3.70), sat on a plate in front of me. Though I could have gone for a more authentic dining experience, my Margherita pizza and cake proved that ceviche and lomo saltado are not the only dishes in Lima.

LIZZIE LEBOW

Pizza Margherita at Dolce Cappriccio in Miraflores

JORDAN CLAY

From flan to ice cream to chocolate cake, Peruvians love their desserts.

Irresistible desserts

BY JORDAN CLAY

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y mom has a sweet tooth. My dad has a sweet tooth. Put that together, you create a child with a super-mega sweet tooth.

Normally, I can keep my cravings under control. However, I learned very quickly that Peruvians have a special appreciation for dessert. From tres leches cakes to flan to rolled ice cream, the desserts in Peru are incomparable.

I found myself shamelessly bringing chocolate cake to class at 10 in the morning. I tried to be strong, but when the aroma of freshly baked cookies filled the air, I couldn’t walk past a bakery.

Bakeries in Chicago— with the exception of mass-produced and lowquality Dunkin Donuts— are rare. When you do find one, your options are limited to cupcakes and cheesecake.

In Peru, you’ll easily find a small bakery with many desserts, including cakes, ice cream, cookies, brownies, flan, fruit and chocolate. All are handmade.

There’s a lot I’m going to miss about this country: the landscape, the people, the restaurants, the dogs. But I’d be lying if I said the desserts didn’t make it on the list.

of Peru Dining in paradise

BY LIZZIE LEBOW

W LIZZIE LEBOW

I found my love in Peru, and his name is Sr. Saltado.

Meeting Sr. Saltado

BY LIZZIE LEBOW

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s a lazy person, I rely on services like GrubHub to do the hard work. While in Lima, however, I pushed my comfort levels in dining. I enjoyed eating in diners and luxurious restaurants.

However, eating food in front of my computer is incredibly relaxing no matter where I am.

So I set out to find food I could eat comfortably in my bed. To my dismay, I found very few options.

Perhaps because meals are a social event in Peru, there is not much demand for delivery or take-out. Why eat alone when you can enjoy food with your loved ones? And then I met Sr. Saltado.

Sr. Saltado is a Chinese-Peruvian eatery that replicates the fast-casual dining style in the U.S. At Sr. Saltado you pick a protein, veggies and sauce, and the chef cooks it in a wok. The food was tasty and filling and set me back only 14 soles ($4.35).

Sr. Saltado (srsaltado.com) gave me the best of both worlds: Peruvian food in the comfort of my hotel room.

—Design by Kenny Coleman and Michelle Yu

hile on our way through the Sacred Valley of the Incas, we stopped to eat at Tunupa Restaurant on the Urubamba River.

We enjoyed Peruvian treats like ceviche, quinoa stew and pollo saltado. For dessert, we had mousses, tropical fruits and torta de dulce de leche (caramel cake.)

I especially enjoyed the fresh avocadoes and tomatoes. Coming from the harsh winter of the Midwest, fresh vegetables were a pleasure.

The food was nothing compared to the view. Tunupa’s backyard is the lush valley of the Urubamba River. A garden of vibrant colors flourished against the backdrop of the Andes.

Outside the restaurant, two alpacas were enjoying their lunch. We named them Penélope and Café. Penelopé focused on eating grass while her admirers stroked her. Café was a little standoffish and shy.

Tunupa restaurant (tunuparestaurante.com.pe) provided the experience of dining in a mountainous paradise among Peru’s natural flora and fauna. We were able to have a delicious meal while enjoying the breathtaking beauty of the Andes.

LIZZIE LEBOW

Peruvian seafood is not only ceviche. This shrimp ravioli was spectacular.

Sea and fresh

BY LIZZIE LEBOW

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efore coming to Peru, I had not really associated its capital, Lima, with seafood. While dining in the city, however, my opinion changed.

Lima sits on the Pacific coast of Peru, thus its restaurants feature seafood. Peru’s national dish is ceviche, a seafood salad of raw fish in lime juice, mixed with purple onions and chopped ají (a Peruvian chile pepper.)

I tasted Lima’s seafood a few times: sushi, fried fish and Chaufa rice, and seafood paella.

I experienced one of the most notable dishes at a posh restaurant named Delfino Mar (restaurantdelfinomar.com).

It was shrimp ravioli in a creamy artichoke sauce. The saltiness and tartness of the artichokes perfectly complimented the shrimp. The creamy and cheesy sauce combined all the elements into one cohesive dish.

Growing up in the Midwest, I knew little about seafood. However, the restaurants of Lima changed my attitude. The seafood, so fresh and flavorful, left me wanting more.

ELIO LETURIA

A variety of desserts closed a great buffett of Peruvian dishes in Cusco.

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Bargaining, a shameless hustle.

But a valuable skill for maneuvering Lima’s streets

“Two for S/.20, my queens!”

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BY SOPHIE POKORNY

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wanderer | Fall . Winter 2018

ELIO LETURIA

JORDAN CLAY

ima boasts some very aggressive salespeople. Although meant to be welcoming and enticing, they often seem desperate and unappealing.

In celebration of arriving in Peru, the group of us Pisco sour is went on a hunt for drinks in the Peruvian Lima. national We ended up at a street cocktail, a popular lined with bars. It was not drink during until we entered that I reHappy hour. alized that this was a place meant for tourists.

We had barely set foot in the pedestrian walkway when people were already approaching us, offering drinks for happy hour, “2 for $20,” and delicious food. At one point it was like a war between two businesses as their hosts began to pull us in different directions, each trying to convince us that the competitor was lying about their cut-rate deals.

We almost decided to leave out of confusion and slight panic until one them, who was continuously calling us, “My queens!

My queens!” offered us 2 for $20 drinks, a free Pisco sour and the establishment’s wifi password.

We followed him in, leaving the other disappointed host and everyone else waiting along the street. When we sat down, he gave us the remote to his TV so we could play whatever music we wanted; it was all just a ruse since our drinks weren’t as good as we had been hoping. We could see him boasting to another host outside that he had gotten the five of us into his restaurant, but we left not too long after, disappointing him.

A waiter at La Calle de las Pizzas (Pizza Street) in Miraflores wooing potential customers and offering discounts.

Haggling at the market

JORDAN CLAY

BY JORDAN CLAY

At Parque Kennedy weekly art fair you can even negotiate the prices of real oil paintings.

Restaurant recruitment

I

BY JORDAN CLAY n the United States, choosing a restaurant is a casual, even boring task. In Lima, Peru, the atmosphere on the streets, filled with bars and restaurants eager to acquire your business, is anything but casual.

Desperate for you to choose them, hosts play tug-of-war against each other, and you are the rope. You are pulled in every direction, dodging promises of free drinks and WiFi codes, while never actually getting a chance to see the menu.

It can be an overwhelming experience for the indecisive or perhaps a thrill for those who like to be persuaded.

While wandering semi-aimlessly down a normal street in Lima, absentmindedly scouting for a potential spot for drinks, we were suddenly bombarded with requests from all directions to “come in, have a drink, free drink, come dance, no don’t go in there, come here, you don’t want their food, ours is better,” and so on.

At one point, two hosts began arguing over our group, splitting us in two, and going back and forth with each other over whom we should choose. They had a lighthearted tone, but they were also very intense. For a moment I was too nervous to choose, not wanting to upset the loser.

Eventually we chose the host who offered us free wifi and the option to control the music, and as we sat and enjoyed our drinks, I tuned out the noise of hosts calling out to other passersby, as they had done to us just moments before.

B

efore arriving in Peru, I was told that the ability to haggle with vendors would be an invaluable skill. This made me nervous, as I’d never considered haggling one of my strong suits.

I had this idea that haggling over prices with locals was rude; I believe in paying for quality, especially when something is handmade. However, it quickly became obvious to me that people in Peru, specifically at the Indian Market and other similar markets, don’t just expect price negotiations, they encourage it.

Often a merchant will name a price, then immediately offer a lower price, or even ask me to name what I am willing to pay. Their initial price is almost always an inflated one, based on the assumption that I will refuse to pay it and offer something lower.

“It is worth 50 soles, but for you,” [insert pause], “45.”

“How about 40?” I’ll retort. “40? 40 is fine,” and just like that, we’ve come to an agreement.

As I have been struggling with Spanish since my arrival in this country, the language barrier sometimes comes into play with these negotiations. When dealing with a merchant who understands no English—as I am someone who understands little Spanish—we had to be a little creative with communication.

As I have been struggling with Spanish since my arrival in this country, the language barrier sometimes comes into play with these negotiations. When dealing with a merchant who understands no English—as I am someone who understands little Spanish—we had to be a little creative with communication.

I had been interested in buying local paintings. While discussing prices of a piece of artwork, an artist takes out a calculator, sets it to zero and places it in my hand. He points to the calculator, then points to the painting. I am extremely confused, thinking he is trying to tell me the price of the painting is zero. It takes me entirely too long to realize that, no, he is not asking me to steal his work, but rather he is asking me to name my price.

I later realize this is a common tactic for merchants to evade the language barrier between buyer and seller.

Whether it’s verbal or visual, I’ve come to realize that haggling prices, at least at a local level, is a common practice in Peru, and my fear of offending has all but been overcome.

— Design by Chase Conner & Michelle Yu Fall . Winter 2018 | wanderer

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ND, E K EE STS W Y TI R EVE EET AR ORES R STR IRAFL COLO IN M MORE ITY C G BRIN TO THE PHOTOS Y D AN N CLA RY STO JORDA BY

VA S

SUN

INE H S

O

N CAN L

ima has a reputation of being a gray and gloomy city, so perhaps this is why its residents make a point of creating artwork that is anything but dull.

There is no shortage of artwork to see or buy; however, much of it—like in any major city—is mass produced and generic. That doesn’t mean that it is impossible to find original work; on the contrary, actually. I all but stumbled upon a field of artists

proudly showcasing their pieces for all to see.

On the outskirts of Parque Kennedy, a beautiful green area in the heart of Miraflores, in the huge city of Lima, a group of artists display their work every weekend in hopes of selling some pieces.

They set up their stands, position their canvases and let their images do all the talking.

Unlike many other vendors I’ve encountered in Lima, who are aggressive in their technique of pushing sales, these artists let their work speak for themselves.

They greet you as you pass by, encouraging you with a smile, but they will let you browse in peace, while also making themselves available for questions and compliments.

Artist Manolo Martínez was no exception. He sat calmly behind his canvases, his face hidden in the shadow of his art, and it wasn’t until I peeked around the stand to ask for his prices that he made himself known.

He gave me a price, and before I even had the chance to react, he asked me to name what I was willing to pay. I gave a price—a lowball, in my opinion—and to my surprise he accepted immediately.

He rolled up my painting and—another surprise—asked to take my picture! He had me stand in front of his paintings and snapped a few quick shots. Pride and appreciation played

Artists Manolo Martínez and Francisco Girón showcasing their artwork at Parque Kennedy in Miraflores, Lima, Peru where they come to sell it every weekend.

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obvious roles in his expression, and perhaps it was this display of gratitude that pushed me to visit him again the next day.

I came back on Sunday, and despite the language barrier between us, I could see in his eyes that he remembered me.

He told me that he’s been painting for over 20 years, and as is obvious by his numerous paintings, his favorite style is impressionism. Martínez did not even need to persuade me to buying anything, but by the end of our conversation, I had bought a second painting, even more bright and beautiful than the first.

Maybe I’m a sucker for artwork or maybe there’s something uniquely alluring about the street artists in Lima, but it should come as no surprise that my shopping spree didn’t end there.

Unlike Martínez’s impressionistic style of painting, Francisco Girón— another artist showcasing his work in the park— displayed realistic depictions of waves crashing against the shore and quaint Peruvian street scenes.

He has been painting for 50 years, he told me, and selling his art on the streets for 40. His years of experience became obvious to me when I saw that price haggling with him would not be so easy as with Martínez. He pointed to a seascape painting, telling me it’s his “best work.”

Well, I wasn’t surprised. The realism of the water took my breath away. As we finally settled on a price, he placed a fist on his chest and scrunched up his face in mock pain, mouthing “my heart!”

Did I really take his heart?

There is no shortage of talented artists in this city, and it is almost bittersweet that the park will be empty of their illustrations for a whole week.

These artists bring a certain vibrancy to the park that simply cannot be found elsewhere. We must bid them farewell for now, until the next weekend when they will return, set up their work, and bring back a little sunshine to this clouded city.

—Design by Gabriela Szczepaniec

A display of colorful art by an unknown artist at Parque Kennedy.

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WWH I T E

Eurocentrism in Peruvian advertising does not represent the local population.

BY KHYLA WALLACE

STREET PHOTOS BY TABATA MATOS

18

wanderer | Fall . Winter 2018

hen I was about 6 or 7, my mother would take my brother and me to the allergist every Sunday to treat our allergies. I can recall filling a tiny spot in those massive gray armchairs, my legs swinging above the checkered floor. My hair was long and natural, so my mother would braid it to keep it out of my face. I remember one time in particular, we were waiting for the nurse to call us in for my shots and there was a mother and daughter, both white, sitting near us.

I looked over to my mom and asked her, “Mommy, can I be white?”

She looked puzzled, but responded with, “Why?” I glanced over to the little white girl, who, unlike me, had flowing hair free of rubber bands and barrettes.

“They get to wear their hair down. I want to do that, too,” I

looked up at her, wide-eyed and waiting. With her expression, unaltered, she simply rejected my request and never brought it up again.

At the time, I didn’t see anything wrong with asking her this. In retrospect, I’m aware of all the issues that are linked to my early childhood inquiries.

At 21, I was given the opportunity to visit the vibrant country of Peru. The culture is rich, and the people are diverse. It’s a place where one can find people of Indian, African and Asian descent, but as I wandered around cities like Lima on the coast alongside the Pacific Ocean, and Cusco in the tall Andes mountains, the advertisements portrayed the same faces, catering mostly to one type: Europeans.

My entire life, it seems, advertisers have been trying to drill Eurocentric beauty standards into the heads of everyone who varied from the “norm.”

The Barbie dolls at toy stores looked nothing like me. They were blonde-haired, fair-skinned and light-eyed. Their lips weren’t full, and their hair wasn’t kinky.

The commercials on television never featured people who resembled me either, at least not portrayed as the Europeans were: beautiful.

In Peru, I saw ads for everything: restaurants, massage therapy, clothing lines, beverage companies, you name it. It made me uncomfortable seeing how the majority of these ads looked nothing like the locals. It was as if these companies couldn’t find local models, which I don’t believe is true.

Jacqueline Fowks, a Peruvian journalist and associate professor at Universidad Católica del Perú, has straight black hair and tanned skin. Tall (by Peruvian standards) and slender, Fowks says her mother is of Indian (Native American) and White de-

studies, gender theory and comparative literatures. She shares the views of Gonzales Vigil; Ferreira, who has tanned skin and wavy hair, says the ads are “far from reality.” They are directed toward a small group, not inclusive of the plethora of ethnic groups of Peru, she added.

In her opinion, the general population doesn’t feel represented, but because of these Eurocentric ads, “They feel the need to emulate what’s being shown to the public.” Although Ferreira hasn’t fallen into the trap of images presented in these ads, she understands game they’re playing, and she’s aware of the cosmetic changes some Peruvians are going through to appear less indigenous. Some wear lighter skin makeup foundations, lighten their hair or perm it to make it look wavy.

Who do these Eurocentric advertisements affect the most? Is it the youth? Hopefully, some time soon, I can return with more answers.

—Design by Julia Janiszewski

Universidad Católica professor Jackie Fowks.

KHYLA WALLACE

doesn’t allow these out-of-touch beauty standards to fill her head.

Fowks also stated that the advertisements affect the urban areas more so than the rural, but that it would be inappropriate to generalize in such a large country. I can agree with her here as well: It wouldn’t be fair to generalize a nation. If given the opportunity, I’d travel from the most southern part of Peru to the most northern, the rural and urban areas, interviewing person after person and gathering data on this topic. Her words make me want to delve deeper into this subject matter.

Is it possible that, even among urban people living on the coast, there are several different identities, and not everyone wants to look like the people featured in the advertisements? It is hard to answer for others.

De Paul University Director of Graduate Programs in Modern Languages Dr. Rocío Ferreira is also from Peru but has been teaching in Chicago for the past 17 years in the areas of Latin American literature and film

Photojournalist Ana Cecilia Gonzales Vigil.

Courtesy ROCÍO FERREIRA

scent while her father is Afro-Peruvian. She remembers how she felt about her looks during her younger years: “When I was a teenager, during high school and the first years as a student at the university, it affected me a lot.”

Her appearance bothered her, saying that looks have to do with identity at that age.

I can relate to Fowks’s comments as I struggle with my identity daily. It’s difficult, being surrounding by “the norm” in real time and also having to be exposed to advertisements plastered with the same slender faces.

Ana Cecilia Gonzales Vigil has blonde wavy hair, fair skin and blue eyes. A world-renowned award-winning photojournalist, Gonzales Vigil has documented the lives of Peruvians over her long career. In regard to the advertisements, she says, “Advertisements do not represent the audiences they are directed to. I believe most ads are based on an ‘aspirational’ approach. Something to look up to.”

Fortunately for her, she’s at peace with her identity and

ELIO LETURIA

is the color to be

DePaul University professor Rocío Ferreira.

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BY CAROLYN BRADLEY

Catholicism and gay rights do not find harmony in this South American country

ILLU

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wanderer | Fall . Winter 2018

GAYS BEAR THE CROSS IN PERU

“COFFEE IS AS SERIOUS AS A SACRAMENT,” I read as

I walked down Avenue José Pardo in the Miraflores district of Lima on a January summer morning. As someone who saved coffee for rare occasions, I didn’t see it as serious. On top of that, comparing the beverage to a Catholic ritual shocked me.

Yes, summer in January. This is Peru, in the southern hemisphere.

Peru is a devout Catholic country with rosaries sold at markets and taxi drivers making the sign of the cross when passing the many churches. According to countrystudies.us, only 4.5 percent of Peruvians identify as Protestant. The heavy Catholic influence is woven into the country’s politics: The archbishop plays a role in the government and has had significant influence in the passage of laws.

According to a March 29, 2016, Telesur article, Archbishop Javier del Río of Arequipa,

Peru’s second-largest city, declared it a “sin” to vote for leftleaning presidential candidates who champion abortion and gay rights.

Many Catholics share the belief that marriage is a sacred bond reserved for a man and a woman. Because of this, samesex marriage is illegal in Peru.

While being gay itself is not criminalized, it is considered taboo, and many LGBT Peruvian residents must be careful not to express affection in public because of widespread opposition to LGBT rights.

Walter Estrada, 64, and his wife Carmen, 63, of Miraflores,

CAROLYN BRADLEY

ELIO LETURIA

agree the Catholic Church is tolerant toward those who have a homosexual predisposition. They do not believe, however, that gay people should be allowed to marry, citing their religious beliefs. In addition, they say it is wrong for gay people to act on their sexual urges; rather, they should remain celibate.

Mabel Ancajima, 36, of Miraflores, agrees with this sentiment.

“They are my brothers and sisters,” she says, “and I love them. But marriage is for a man and a woman.”

Ancajima has a gay cousin, whom she says she loves very much; however, she doesn’t think he should be allowed to marry a man.

Carlos Bruce is Peru’s first openly gay congressman. A May 27, 2014, NBC News article says his election generated negative responses and gay slurs, which Bruce said he expected. What shocked him, he told NBC, was the support he received. The article also says Bruce has supported a bill that would allow civil unions for same-sex couples.

After Congress Peru as blocked the bill a devout in 2015, Catholic Catholic Bishop Luis Bamcountry barén directed a takes its coffee quite gay slur against Bruce, according seriously. to a March 11, San Martín 2015, Splinter arde Porres ticle. and Santa Despite oppoRosa de sition from the Lima, two Catholic church, beloved some Peruvians Peruvian say they support saints. gay marriage.

Ana Cecilia Gonzales-Vigil, an independent photojournalist, says though she is Catholic, she does not practice the religion; rather, she prefers to explore spirituality. She disagrees with the Catholic Church’s policy and says gay people should be able to marry.

Rosaries even appear as merchandise from local shopkeepers.

Exploring other parts of the world can sometimes impact a person’s compassion for those who are different, as well as their beliefs. Though GonzalesVigil has traveled outside of her home country of Peru, she says she’s always believed in the importance of trusting people because they know in their hearts what they want. She said she never believed that being gay was wrong or a sin, but instead as something that is part of someone’s nature.

“It’s free will,” Gonzales-Vigil says. “People should definitely be free to choose who they want to live with. This is all about love. It’s not about gender. The same rules should apply to everyone.”

Freddy Castillo, 29, of Surquillo, a district of Lima, is gay. He says that though he is agnostic, he has encountered people, such as his own parents, who don’t understand his being gay.

Luis Olivares, 17, also of Surquillo, says he and his family are Catholic, and as a result, his family disapproves of his being gay as well.

Castillo and Olivares say the intolerance they face stems from a lack of understanding.

“I think about a world where we can exist together peacefully, regardless of who we’re attracted to,” Olivares said.

—Design by Rebecca Casey

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a e s e s r h o l t a o cro s s C

ing

ean m d n a s Hue

| STORY AND PHOTOS BY KHYLA WALLACE |

O

n the early morning of Jan. 1, 2018, the city of Lima, Peru, was quiet.

Most of the residents, who had the day off, were likely to be sleeping in after a summer night of celebrating the New Year.

I had just landed in this large metropolis. Traffic was moving along smoothly, and through the windows of our driver Juan Paz’s white van, I was able to take in the sea of colors: brilliant yellow rooftops and electric blue Volkswagen vanagons mixed with vibrant orange buildings, lime green front doors and crimson red flowers.

It was stunning. Contrary to the almost blandness of some U.S. cities, where our voices are loud and our personalities even more so, where our homes are varied shades of beiges and browns, with the occasional blue, red, or canary yellow, the people of these richly cultured lands seem to express themselves best through color.

In my experience, especially growing up as a black woman on Long Island, it was ingrained in our brains that bright colors should be worn only by lighterskinned women. Otherwise it would have been seen as obnoxious or “ghetto.” Over the years, I’ve come to realize how false that is.

Now, after being exposed to the Peruvian culture, where I’ve seen women and men

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alike wearing and/or making products with bright colors, I’ve become curious to find out what the significance of vibrancy is in their communities.

Days later I visited the Mercado Indio, an enormous Peruvian crafts market in Miraflores. Trinkets, jewelry, crystals, textiles, pottery and silver, among so many other crafts, are displayed for the world to buy.

If you’re not careful, it’s easy

to find yourself turned around within the many tiny shops, with sellers showing off what they’ve got to offer, asking you how much you’re willing to pay for such a fine item.

I was browsing from shop to shop when an artisan stopped what he was doing to offer me items made of these lovely red and black seeds, called huayruro (Why-EE-ru-ro).

According to the site shamansmarket.com, “There has been the belief among Peruvians that these seeds have the dual power to attract good fortune and ward off evil

spirits.” The huayruro (Ormosia coccinea) is associated with good luck, the shop vendors agreed.

The vendor’s little shop was littered wall to wall with necklaces handmade with dried orange peels. He sat at a small table making key chains from dyed seeds.

It was a quaint shop, and I was instantly interested in what he was selling. Rainer Quispe, 37, is an artisan who works mostly with seeds and wires creating everything from earrings to key chains. He also uses the orange peels that are discarded, recycling them and creating

the Equator f o e d i s ther

he o t n o

necklaces and other bijouterie.

Raised by artisan parents, Quispe has been crafting since he was 9, he said. He felt inspired to carry on their legacy, and so he graduated from Escuela Nacional De Bellas Artes (National Fine Arts School) in downtown Lima. Originally from Cusco, Quispe has been living and working in the “gray” city of Lima for 15 years.

I roamed around his shop getting lost in the variety of colors and designs. With intense concentration he quietly spent his time crafting his jewelry while a small television with loud soap operas played in the background.

“Color is very important in my

art because it represents the colors the Incas used in their crafts,” he said. But I wanted to know more about what color meant to him. Quispe said it is significant for him because they are a part of nature. “The red color has a mysticism,” he said. “It attracts good vibes, good luck, love, fertility and prosperity.”

Though he is a lover of all the Earth’s colors, as I could see in the diverse pieces he makes, he tailors his work to what tourists request most: red, black and green.

He’s been crafting for so long that he’s able to tell what certain tourists are more attracted to: the Europeans prefer matte colors such as browns, and Americans prefer bright colors, he said.

Listening to Quispe may have left me with even more questions. I’m interested in knowing what the other colors represent, if they also hold certain mysticism or if red is something Peruvians hold dear to their hearts.

Well, yes, the Peruvian flag is red and white.

—Design by Mariah Wilbat

DYEING WITH COLOR THE MASSIVE AMOUNT OF COLOR I saw in this trip was really spectacular. We learned so much about natural dye and were even privileged to witness yarn made from alpaca fur being dyed.

In Pisaq, a small town in the Cusco area, we walked through a sea of shops. I haggled with shop owners over prices for miniature skulls and sweaters, took photographs with baby goats and women in traditional clothing.

On our way out, I met a vendor who was selling watercolors in powder form. I felt chills run down my spine as I took in the vibrant colors resting within each tin.

A smile burst across my face as the woman revealed how brilliant the colors looked not only in their original place but on paper as well. She showed me how certain colors changed their appearance when mixed with water; by the end of her demonstration I was sold. And she was 25 soles ($7.50) richer.

LEFT Rainer Quispe, a native from Cusco, works in his shop at the Mercado Indio in Miraflores.

RIGHT Bracelets made with huayruro seeds, which are bright red and black.

Season 201x | wanderer

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Rocoto Relleno

Lomo Saltado

Ocopa

Locro

Ají de Gallina

Papas Doradas

Puré de Papas

Carapulca

Papas Fritas

Photos EMMA JENSEN, ELIO LETURIA

Potayto?

Potahto?

Peruvian papa!

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Causa Rellena

B

BY EMMA JENSEN eing a tourist in Peru, it is hard not to notice the abundance of potatoes served in restaurants and sold in supermarkets. Nearly every meal comes with a side of potatoes in various forms.

They’re used in many popular Peruvian dishes. Causa consists of layers of mashed potatoes seasoned with Peruvian chili peppers and lime juice. Or they are stwuffed with chicken or fish. Then there is Papa a la Huancaína, which is cold boiled potatoes covered by a creamy sauce made from cheese, yellow chili peppers, milk and oil. And there are many more recipes.

According to tour guide Paulo Puma, more than 3,000 varieties of potatoes grow in the Andes across Peru. Potatoes were originally harvested 8,000 years ago by pre-Inca cultures and there are currently about 10 varieties commonly sold in Peruvian supermarkets, such as Huayro, amarilla, negra, blanca, Huamantanga and Canchán, among others.

So how did potatoes become a common staple around the world? According to Potato Goodness website, when the Spanish conquistadors arrived to Peru in 1532, they took note of the starchy vegetable and brought it back to Spain. From there, it was later introduced to Ireland by Sir Walter Raleigh in 1589. European agriculturalists learned potatoes were easy to grow and contained many vitamins humans need to survive.

Almost 40 years after potatoes were brought to Ireland, they began to spread across Europe and eventually to the United States in 1621.

So the native American potato first arrived to the United States via Europe.

With all of the uses of potatoes commonly seen around the world, it is easy to forget where the potato began. According to Potato Goodness the original cultivators of this tuber also believed the potatoes possessed healing qualities and were used as health remedies. The Incas carried the tubers with them to prevent rheumatism and cure toothaches. Potatoes were placed on broken bones to improve healing. Raw grated potato was applied to sunburn and frostbite and slices were tied around their necks to soothe a sore throat.

The starches were also eaten by the Incas along with other foods to prevent indigestion, which may explain why they’re often served as a side dish at restaurants.

The potato has also significantly benefited the European countries where it was introduced. According to History magazine, with the easily grown root vegetable and its high nutritional value, Ireland and the United Kingdom’s population began to boom.

With the overall health of the people improving with better nutrition, they were more able to fight off diseases such as dysentery, tuberculosis, scurvy and measles. Birth rates increased and mortality rates decreased resulting in the drastic population jump. The impact of potatoes on Europe is easily seen by the Irish Potato Famine. Without a sufficient amount of potatoes, millions of people starved to death.

Contrary to what’s believed, potatoes are not from Ireland or Idaho. They originated in the Peruvian and Bolivian Andes and have been part of the indigenous diet for millennia.

Currently there are over 3,000 varieties of potatoes in Peru.

In 1621, potatoes arrived in the U.S. from England.

U.S.

By 1589, potatoes were introduced in Ireland.

Banned in France, potatoes got accepted after Antoine Parmentier served them to King Louis XV. Ireland

Virginia

England

EUROPE By 1573, potatoes were diet of hospital patients in Seville.

France Spain

ASIA

AFRICA

Peru

Peruvian potatoes were sent to Europe in 1560.

SOUTH AMERICA

Indonesia

The Dutch took potatoes to Indonesia in 1790.

AUSTRALIA

Sources EL COMERCIO, FARMERS ALMANAC

ELIO LETURIA

The ubiquitous potato, native to Peru, got to the United States with a stopover in Europe

THE ROUTE OF THE POTATOES

Nine types of potatoes at Wong supermarkets in Lima

This well-known famine may explain why many believe potatoes are native to Ireland.

Having an important impact on continents around the world has resulted in a variety of potato dishes popular in various countries. Shepherd’s pie, also known as cottage pie, is an Irish staple made with vegetables, stew and mashed potatoes.

Knödel is a popular German dumpling made with potatoes and is also popular in other central European countries such as Austria, Hungary and Serbia as well as Scandinavian countries.

Potatoes are found in the Indian dish aloo matar. Polish pierogis are filled with potatoes and cheese.

Of course, there are also French fries, which are popular in the United States and all over the world. Just imagine going to McDonald’s without the option of ordering the delicious, crispy, deep-fried potatoes.

When arriving to Peru, I was unaware of the history of potatoes in the country and why they were so popular in restaurants and in food markets.

There are many traditional Peruvian dishes that include potatoes, and they are also served as side dishes, which was a surprise to me. Potatoes can be boiled, mashed, pureed, fried, boiled and fried, dehydrated and reconstituted or baked.

Papa a la Huancaína, Papa Rellena, Ocopa, Solterito, Caucau, Carapulca and Lomo Saltado are just a handful of the copious numbers of potato dishes in Peruvian cuisine.

With the tuber’s origin in Peru and its trek through Europe and then on to North America, the potato serves an important piece of Peruvian history that crossed frontiers.

It’s now present in every corner of the world.

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w

Ias lovable pets, yet in Peru

Food, medicine,

& entertainment The different faces of the cuy, our Guinea pig

[ BY SOPHIE POKORNY ]

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wanderer | Fall . Winter 2018

they are considered the food to try and a delicacy for locals.

People swear by guinea pig, also known as “cuy,” which is regarded as one of the wellknown foods in Peru. Guinea pig has been in South America for at least 5,000 years and has been consumed since the times of the Inca. It is said that cuy also has had a medicinal purpose for Andean people. According to Peruvian traditions, a live guinea pig was rubbed over a sick person’s body and would squeak, identifying the infected area. Millions of cuyes are consumed every year, and the animals have become so embedded in Peruvian culture that they even enjoy a national holiday on the second Friday of October.

Guinea pigs are now raised and bred like any other farm animal. Farmers have made their livings from guinea pig farms where cuyes are raised and sold, whether for eating or betting games.

Yet a cuy can also be a source of entertainment.

In one game, the small animal is placed in the middle of a circle of boxes, and players bet on which box the cuy enters. Although guinea pig is much more popular in smaller communities in the mountains, it is becoming more popular as restaurants are eager to serve the food tourists want to try when visiting Peru.

Luis Calderón, 48, who works as a tour guide throughout Peru with the company Academia Latinoamericana de Español, is very familiar with the tradition of cuy. Despite its few other uses he mainly knows it as a special gift for celebrations and as a food source.

Originally from Cajamarca in the highlands of northern Peru and now living in Lima, Calderón has seen how the industry and mindset around cuy has changed. He talks about his grandfather traveling 140 kilometers on foot (87 miles) for a week from his hometown to a principal city on the coast, eating mostly cuy during his journey. He says his grandfather would dry it in sun, add salt and

SOPHIE POKORNY

n some places, they are kept

Luis Calderón offered us a roasted guinea pig he cooked at home.

eat it with corn. This was a main and abundant source of food protein while traveling long distances.

Calderón also discusses its more common use as a food during celebrations and recalls a native festivity in the highlands called Landa, or “cortapelo.” It is celebrated after children have their first haircut; friends and family are invited. Calderón thinks back and recalls, “The first time that I was invited to one of these festivities I saw at least 500 guinea pigs in a pan, a big pan.” He says guinea pigs are often offered as gifts when a child is born. Nowadays, cuyes are much more a tourist attraction, although the natives of Peru still treat cuy as a special dish; tourists see it as “an adventure,” Calderón says. He says many find it strange to eat since they are considered pets in the United States and parts of Europe.

Calderón adds that his favorite way to prepare cuy is frying it flat and serving it with onions and boiled potatoes. He was eager to show me what cuy looked like, since I had not had a chance to try it yet. Calderón told me that on the way to the airport I could stop by his house.

When we did, he brought out a whole cuy and posed while I took pictures of him, holding it proudly.

In Cusco it is cooked in its original shape, stuffed with herbs, over an open fire. In the Urubamba region, an area revered by the Incas, residents of small towns like Lamay special-

ize in offering cuy. It was in Lamay that I was finally able to try cuy myself. I wish I had been able to compare Calderón’s favorite with the roasted version of Cusco, which he had said he disliked in comparison. I took his recommendation, asking for it without the head, and we nibbled on small pieces of guinea pig, served with a side of potatoes, a pepper and, strangely enough, spaghetti. The taste was strong from the herbs, but it definitely didn’t taste like chicken. For me, eating it wasn’t as bad as look-

ELIO LETURIA

Painting at the Cusco Cathedral that includes guinea pig as one dish in the Last Supper.

ing at it and noticing its small rib cage.

According to Diego del Corral from Ecuador, the manager of Academia Latinoamericana de Español, people from Cusco often travel to small towns to enjoy the views of the Sacred Valley and the taste of cuy. The tradition of cuy has permeated all aspects of Peruvian culture, including religion. A sign in the Qorikancha (Temple of the Sun),

a Spanish cathedral built on top of Incan ruins in Cusco, explains that cuy is also used in the traditional Procession of the Corpus Christi. During this festival, cuy is eaten in a dish called “Chiri Uchu,” which means “Cold Dish.” A painting at the Cusco cathedral depicts the Last Supper, where a cuy is among the many dishes on the table.

It is clear cuy has played a long role in the history of Peruvian culture, from the first empire of the Chavín until now, adding to the “must do” list when visiting Peru. Although eating cuy may appear to be a strange custom to outsiders, it is important to acknowledge the rich history behind the tradition of the guinea pig in the Land of the Incas.

—Design by Cimone Dailey

Local woman sells roasted guinea pigs in the town of Lamay in Cusco.

PHOTO BY SOPHIE POKORNY

Season 201x | wanderer

3

U

p in the Andes, in the Peruvian region of Cusco, Quechua people work to make intricate patterns using alpaca wool.

Each handmade sweater, table runner and scarf is given hours of concentration, becoming one of a kind. It is part of a long tradition of weaving passed down by word of mouth.

The results are stunning.

Chaska Quispe, a Quechua woman working at Urpi Textile in the small town of Chinchero (19 miles northwest from Cusco,) stands in front of us and describes the entire process, from shearing the alpaca wool, to washing, kneading, dyeing and knitting.

Another woman offered all of us, a group of Columbia College Chicago students, a clay cup with “muña,” (MOONyah) a hot mint-like tea, which it is said to be good for digestion. One of my classmates asks why only the women workers do this. She laughs and says, “Because men are not smart enough!” Instead, the men of the community participate more in the farming and shearing of the alpacas, as opposed to the assembling of textiles, Quispe explains.

The women of this community in Chinchero sit in a huddled circle talking to one another as they weave their pieces together. Quispe shows us a table runner, made of intricate patterns and vibrant colors.

Tightly knit, she tells us this textile might take up to six weeks to make. A sweater would take maybe a month, while smaller items like socks or scarves only a week or two.

Despite Chaska’s accusation of men’s lack of skill when it comes to garment making, Mateo Quispe (no relation to Chaska Quispe) proved to be able to do the work perfectly.

His family is a part of the Awana Kancha cooperative near the rural town of Pisac, 14.5 miles northeast of the city of Cusco. It unites 14 families from the surrounding area who participate in farming and collecting alpaca wool. Mateo says he has helped his family members weave since he was 13. Now in his 30s, he is allowed to design his own garments.

Unlike Urpi Textiles, Awana Kancha offers more designer-like styles that are more expensive. The cooperative offers a greater variety of wool and patterns. Located on the road between Cusco and the Sacred Valley, Awana Kancha has evolved 28

wanderer | Fall . Winter 2018

At Urpi Textiles Chinchero women sit together and weave a variety of items.

ALPACAS for all budgets You come to Peru, you leave with alpacas

BY LIZZIE LEBOW

PHOTO BY SOPHIE POKORNY Photo by SOPHIE POKORNY

A woman demonstrates a weave at the Awana Kancha Project near Pisac.

Photos by LIZZIE LEBOW

to draw in as many tourists as possible.

The company has its own website advertising a petting zoo and intricate weaving displays. The company also boasts a fourand- a-half star rating on the acclaimed travel website Trip Advisor.

Urpi textiles, on the other hand, caters to a different tourist demographic of customers looking for alpaca goods with that handmade touch, but that is not expensive and does not sell exclusive designs.

The company is primarily found by customers through word of mouth. The saleswomen bombard potential buyers with deals for warm alpaca wool garments at an eighth of the price of those offered at Awana Kancha.

According to a Cusco native and experienced tour guide, Paulo Puma, alpaca is the animal of choice when it comes to garment making. The wool of the lama tends to be too coarse, he said. Those with more money prefer wool from the vicuña, a close relative of the alpaca, with its extremely soft and fine wool, which can be

“What bone is this?

It’s human, from someone who didn’t buy anything.”

—CHASKA QUISPE, weaver at Urpi Textile Cooperative in Chinchero, pictured at left

ALPACA GOODS AROUND CUSCO Urpi Textiles is located in Chinchero, whereas Awana Kancha is near Pisac. Both are within driving distance from the city of Cusco. This area is close to “The Sacred Valley of the Incas”.

URPI

46 mins 31 km 19 miles

AWANA KANCHA

41 mins 24 km 14.5 miles CUSCO

Source GOOGLE MAPS

MICHELLE YU

sheared only every three years, making it more desirable and much more expensive.

Awana Kancha offers the exclusive and luxurious vicuña sweaters for the steep price of 900 soles, or $300, and alpaca sweaters for 250 soles or $80. Shops like Urpi textiles tend to be less expensive, and offer only alpaca sweaters for around 80 soles, or $25. There are, of course, differences in quality, but for the regular visitor, each garment looks unique.

Tourists come from all over the world to visit Peru and leave with beautiful textiles.

The people who put their heart into these alpaca wool garments have made them world famous.

— Design by Madeline Lockhart Fall . Winter 2018 | wanderer

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, s g n i r p S t Ho not t ha t Aguascalientes, a required stop on the way to Machu Picchu, is quaint and chaotic

STORY & PHOTOS

BY SOPHIE POKORNY

D

espite being wedged between Peru’s lush green mountains along the Urubamba river, Aguas Calientes is not the destination people travel across the world to see.

Sitting at the base of Machu Picchu, this tiny town of less than 2,000 inhabitants is a necessary stop along the way for travelers journeying to the UNESCO World Heritage Site. Although it existed as a train station before Hiram Bingham’s announcement of Machu Picchu’s “discovery” in 1911, the town slowly grew to accommodate tourists.

With only two main streets, Aguas Calientes primarily houses souvenir shops, restaurants and hotels to cater to the tourist industry that began to thrive in the 90s. Its name, meaning “hot springs” in Spanish, is derived from a common activity for hikers who have completed their visit to Machu Picchu. However, many reviews online have reflected some disappointment on the small pools, which suggests the hot springs are not appealing enough to bring in tourists on their own.

Like many other travelers passing through, I barely gave any thought to the town of Aguas Calientes. To be hon-

30 wanderer | Fall . Winter 2018

On their way to Machu Picchu, tourists can choose from many restaurants and souvenir shops in Aguas Calientes.

est, it wasn’t until I was on the trip that I realized Machu Picchu must have some kind of town nearby to cater to such a big crowd in the middle of these opulent mountains. I was fascinated with how the small town had started out as a train station and then began building on top of itself to make money off of Peru’s most famous destination, but I was much more concerned about Machu Picchu.

Our group, which included six college students, an instructor and a tour guide, tried to make the most of the town in between grand adventures.

I had been very aware of how prevalent tourism is in Peru, but this town amplified that. Ev-

erything I had read online about the town was verified.

When first entering Aguas Calientes, only accessible by train, you are then forced to walk through the town’s market, very similar to the other markets we had seen throughout Peru, with vendors offering prices for bags and shirts that you could most definitely find cheaper somewhere else.

Most of the buildings inside the actual town are occupied by tour companies, small convenience stores selling everything you may need for your hike around Machu Picchu, restaurants, hotels and hostels and small massage places that you can visit if you are sore after

CREATIVE COMMONS

FROM AGUASCALIENTES TO MACHU PICCHU It can take approximately 1.5 hours walking from Aguascalientes to Machu Picchu. Some other trekkers take the Inca Trail.

RIGHT Visitors making a line to get into the vans that will take them up to the Lost City of the Incas.

t ho t

hiking. Even though prices for everything here are still slightly cheaper than the United States, they were more expensive than in most of the country.

Down every street you walked, no matter what you were actually looking for, restaurant owners approached you, promising “happy hour four for one,” a better menu than the place across the way or bargained prices that rose much higher when an unexpected service tax was included.

Our group soon learned that the menus and deals were pretty much all the same even though the vendors were open to bargaining off the service tax once in awhile. But of course, these

With only two main streets, Aguas Calientes primarily houses souvenir shops, restaurants and hotels to cater to the tourist industry deals were given only to those familiar with the town’s customs, like our guide Paulo Puma. Having visited many times while guiding tour groups, Puma knew the town’s maze-like streets like the back of his hand.

When asked about the town, he said that because Aguas Calientes is so inaccessible yet made such a profit off of tourism, those who own property there got between 400 to 500 soles

(3.25 soles to $1 USD) per month from the town’s municipality to stay and work. In fact, according to Puma, when a competitor tried to establish a new company of buses to take visitors up to Machu Picchu—5.5 miles away and 1,200 feet higher— the locals reacted, feeling threatened by the competition.

So the townspeople gathered together and rented the train to Cusco to keep the monopoly on jobs for local residents. Many know about the money given to the people of Aguas Calientes and move to the town and buy land to make a living, Puma said.

Along with staying at a hotel in the town, we planned to visit the hot springs, for which the town is named. This has become another stop for tourists who want to relax after the taxing hike at Machu Picchu.

The hot springs advertise the

healing properties of the water, promising to relax every muscle in your body and to rejuvenate your skin.

The short 10-minute hike further into the mountains along the river was beautiful. After paying a fee of 20 soles, which was the most expensive price clearly only for tourists, we reached a concrete area with small crowded pools. The water was slightly yellow from the sulfur of the natural hot springs; each pool was posted with a sign announcing the temperature of the water.

While sitting in the pools, we could hear languages from all over the world. People raised one arm, and the bartender soon appeared waiting for a drink order. Men stared too long, and kids ran around the pool with little supervision by their parents.

It was clear that the hot springs, although calming, were not a reason alone to visit Aguas Calientes.

The town, however strange and chaotic, was quaint. No matter where you are from, if you want to see Machu Picchu, you are forced to pass through this town, now considered the gateway to and from Machu Picchu.

Even from the top, you can see Aguas Calientes, wedged between the mountains along the Urubamba River, reminding you that it will forever be a part of Machu Picchu’s history.

—Design By Anais Morón-Sánchez

Fall . Winter 2018 | wanderer

31

TOURISM IN MACHU PICCHU

Blessing or curse?

How tourism is benefiting ... and polluting the ancient city

I

By Emma Jensen

n 2007, Machu Picchu was named one of the New Seven Wonders of the World via an internet poll. Since then, tourism has drastically increased, changing the way the historic site is run and how tourists are able to visit.

During the years of the Shining Path, Peru’s Communist group that inflicted terror upon the country in the 1980s and early 1990s, tourism decreased because of fear of terrorists.

Columbia College Chicago associate professor Elio Leturia said Machu Picchu was completely empty during his first visit in July 1989. “I saw only 10 tourists,“ Leturia says. Twenty-five years after Abimael Guzmán, the leader of the Shining Path, was captured and the terrorist organization debilitated, the desire to visit Machu Picchu and

32

wanderer | Fall . Winter 2018

Peru has changed. Designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1983 and named a New Wonder of the World 24 years later, tourists now invade the so-called “Lost City of the Incas” to the extent that two daily shifts have been established to visit it.

As the political climate grows more calm and the economy expands, tourism has exploded to up to 5,000 visitors each day during the busy season.

This boom has affected Machu Picchu and the town at the base of the mountain, Aguas Calientes. Tourists flock to Aguas Calientes for its hotels and restaurants, benefiting the economy and creating jobs for residents. They buy souvenirs and crafts from local vendors and pay a fee to relax at the hot springs in town. Being named a World Heritage Site encourages conservation efforts, but on the other hand, the large number of

people walking on the trails has begun to erode the site. National Geographic reported in 2002 that this erosion might possibly result in a landslide, damaging not only Machu Picchu but also the town of Aguas Calientes.

When visiting Machu Picchu I couldn’t help but notice that tourism is strictly controlled. Buses travel up and down the winding roads to the entrance; the fare is $24 each way. Entrance lines are long, regardless of the time of day. Visitors of the Lost City of the Incas are required to

go in shifts, 2,500 in the morning and the same numbers in the evening. It costs two soles (or 60 cents) to use the restrooms.

There is a swanky hotel, the Belmond Sanctuary Lodge right at the entrance, which costs $550$1,850 per night depending on the season. The area is patrolled by guards to ensure that tourists respect the site and stay inside the designated walkways.

Guides promote their services to those who do not know the vast history of the space.

For the most part, tourists

Machu Picchu, from above, showcasing the historic architecture and bountiful plant life.

Columbia College Chicago students gathering among tourists to enter the site.

Students taking pictures and admiring the views on a sunny morning.

PHOTOS BY ELIO LETURIA

were respectful toward each other and the historic space.

However, I did witness a few discourteous acts. There was a man lying in the grass of a protected terrace loudly talking on his cell phone, a father pulling a baby llama away from its mother by the neck to take a picture of his young child with the baby and an old man yelling at me for unknowingly getting in the way of his precious photo of a rock.

Visitors flocked to the site from all over the world. I met people from the United States

and the UK, overheard Australian and Scottish accents, and I took photos for a group of people from Germany. There were people of all ages, from babies carried by sweaty moms and even an 83-year-old woman climbing the steep 45-minute hike to the Sun Gate, where the entire citadel can be seen from an even higher area. I walked past groups of people while I was attempting to decipher what language they were speaking to no avail. I have traveled a decent amount in my life, and

I have never seen such a wide array of people coming together to witness such a beautiful place.

While the effects of tourism on Machu Picchu have generally been positive, there may be some drawbacks to having such a large number of sightseers wanting to visit the iconic ruins.

The large number of footprints at the site increases the risk of landslides, and security guards have a hard time keeping an eye on the large crowds. The site seems ill-prepared to handle an evacuation if needed.

I was fortunate enough to visit the citadel two days in a row. It is rightfully named one of the Seven Wonders of the New World alongside places such as the Taj Mahal and the Roman Colosseum. With the increased control over tourism and the benefits it has to the local economy, I hope by protecting this breathtaking place future generations will have the opportunity to see the magnificent city for many years to come.

—Design By Christian Salvucci

Fall . Winter 2018 | wanderer

33

R

oman, Byzantine, Ottoman, Mayan, Babylonian, Persian, Mongolian: all are empires that have made a lasting impact and imprinted themselves in our memories throughout history. The common denominator between them, though, was the length of time they existed. These empires had hundreds —sometimes thousands— of years to grow and spread, which becomes obvious when we look at all they accomplished.

Along the western coast of South America, we can find a civilization just as widespread and powerful, but which rose and fell all within the span of 100 years. The Inca Empire, which covered parts of modern day Colombia, Ecuador, Peru, Bolivia, Chile and Argentina, began in the year 1438 CE when the Inca king Pachacútec began conquering surrounding civilizations and absorbing them into his own empire. It lasted until 1533 CE, when the Spanish arrived and eventually killed Inca Atahualpa.

Paulo Puma, 31, a tour guide from Cusco, has been leading groups of visitors for many years.

As part of his tours, he explains the many ways the Inca empire rose to

Pachacútec starts expansion There were 14 inca rulers. According to the legend, Manco Cápac, son of the sun god emerged from the Titicaca Lake to found the Inca Empire between 11501178 CE. He was followed by Sinchi Roca, Lloque Yupanqui, Mayta Cápac, Cápac Yupanqui, Inca Roca, Yahuar Huaca and Wiracocha. It was then the Empire started expanding with the last six incas.

Pachacútec (1438 - 1463) Amaru Inca Yupanqui (1463 - 1471) Túpac Inca Yupanqui (1471 - 1493) Huayna Cápac (1493 - 1525) Huáscar (1525 - 1532) Atahualpa (1532 - 1533) FAR RIGHT Machu Picchu, the lost city of the Incas was never found by the Spanish Conquistadors.

Map source ANCIENT HISTORY ENCYCLOPEDIA LIMITED

34

wanderer | Fall . Winter 2018

The rise and fall of the Inca Empire: How the culture survived STORY BY JORDAN CLAY DESIGN BY MICHELLE YU

greatness in such a short period of time and how the culture lives on to this day. Although Inca civilization dates back to 1198 with Inca Manco Cápac, the empire existed only within the 100 years between Inca Pachacuti and the last Inca Atahualpa. During this century, the empire grew to cover over 772,200 square miles of South America, engulfing previous surrounding civilizations.

Unlike many other empires, which accomplished amazing feats by way of forced labor, the Incas never used slave labor. Instead, they used a system akin to military service, where each adult—male and female—went to work for the Inca “government” for 2-2.5 years. This work was not mandatory, according to Puma, however this service tax was the only way for Inca commoners to gain privileges such as the right to marry and the right to own land, among others. If people chose not to work, they simply didn’t enjoy these rights. This system meant that more than 30,000 people would work to build a city at the same time, allowing for great accomplishments to be completed in incredibly short periods of time.

Inca cities are identifiable, in part, by their unique and innovative ar-

chitectural style. They used a technique of cutting large stones and fitting them perfectly together, without the use of any kind of glue or cement to hold them. This specific technique was reserved for important buildings such as temples and the homes of nobility, however the structures of all of their buildings are equally impressive.

You have to look no further than the city of Machu Picchu— considered one of the Seven Wonders of the Modern World— to prove this.

Even more impressive is the fact that their edifices are earthquake proof— a major issue in that part of the world. Even when walking through the city of Cusco, you can see the first level of many buildings are Inca structures, with Spanish colonial buildings built on top.

In 1532 CE, Spanish conquistador Francisco Pizarro arrived at the Andean city of Cajamarca, located in the northern part of modern day Peru, where he encountered Inca Atahualpa, who was preparing to march on Cusco, the capital of his brother Huáscar’s army. Pizarro offered to meet with Atahualpa, who accepted this offer without fear. According to Ancient History Encyclopedia, after refusing to accept the foreign reli-

gion of Catholicism that Pizarro offered, Pizarro slaughtered Atahualpa’s army and captured Atahualpa. At Pizarro’s request, Atahualpa agreed to fill two rooms with silver and one with gold in exchange for his release. After making good on this promise, Pizarro famously betrayed this deal and had Atahualpa killed by strangulation. Atahualpa was the last Inca ruler, and his murder effectively ended the Inca empire.

Contrary to popular belief, the Spanish did not wipe out the entire Inca population; they killed only the Inca nobility, but the common people lived on and are still living today.

The Quechua language was solely a spoken language, but it has been passed down by word of mouth and is now written using the Spanish alphabet.

The Inca culture —still thriving after all these years— sets it apart from every other fallen empire. Direct descendants of the Incas still live in these areas, speaking Quechua— the native tongue of the Incas— and practicing a mixture of their Andean religion and Catholicism, which was introduced to them by the Spanish. While visiting the Cathedral in Cusco, we saw

100 EMPIRE OF

YEARS

a group of native Peruvians coming to worship at the altar. They sung their prayers not in Latin or Spanish, but in Quechua. Puma said it is very common for Native Peruvians to come to mass on Sundays and afterward go back to their homes and give offering to the Pachamama, or mother earth. This is one way that the native people combine the Catholic religion introduced to them by the Spanish and the polytheistic religion passed down to them by their Inca ancestors.

It is also common to see elements of the Andean religion introduced into Catholic religious paintings made by Native Peruvians. For example, when natives paint images of the Virgin Mary, they draw her in the shape of a mountain, to represent the Pachamama. They also introduce images of snakes into these paintings, and while snakes represent the devil in Catholicism, in the Andean religion, they represent rebirth, as Puma pointed out.

Other elements of Inca religion include the worship of the sun —the main god— the moon, the stars and planets, thunder and lightning, rainbows and other natural phenomena. The Incas also revered animals such as the puma, the condor and the snake, which represented courage and strength, freedom and immortality, respectively. They offered food and sacrificed animals to the gods and rarely—in times of great strife such as natural disasters or royal deaths—human sacrifices. These sacrifices took place not in temples, but out in the open atop mountains. Death was by strangulation, removal of the heart, or being hit on the head. Human would be given alcohol before their sacrificial deaths so that they would be happy when they first encountered their gods, according to Ancient History Encyclopedia. These harsher elements of Inca religion, fortunately, have not survived to the present day, although the essence of it has endured, having intertwined itself into Catholicism and remaining in the hearts of native Peruvians.

Sometimes it is easy to look at civilizations such as the Incas and to think that they are so ancient. We forget they are not gone. Their religion is not mythology, their language is not forgotten, their buildings are not ruins. The Inca Empire fell but the culture, what is important, lives on.

Fall . Winter 2018 | wanderer

35

COVERING EUROPE:

Ireland J-TERM 2019

PARIS COVERING EUROPE FROM

This is an intense international travel/study course designed to prepare the student to report, write and produce print, broadcast and multimedia stories about the history, politics, economics and culture of Europe.

Based in Paris, the student will see how CNN and the International Herald Tribune cover the continent from Paris and interview members of the European Union, French government, financial markets, art museums, fashion houses, and major media outlets.

53-4620J

January 5 to 25, 2009 3 credits

Prerequisites include Reporting and Writing II and permission of the instructor. Contact Rose Economou at reconomou@colum.edu or 312.369.8919.

Intro to Fashion Journalism 53-2526 July 3 - August 1, 2014

Students will be able to: ✪ pitch, research, report, write and produce spot news and feature stories about Europe and especially Paris, France. ✪ develop strategies for covering a continent and producing and distributing news reports. ✪ file news and feature stories to The Columbia Chronicle and its website. ✪ develop news sources in Europe. ✪ navigate through the international press corps and understand the geographical, logistical, visual and deadline pressures of being a foreign correspondent.

3 credits

florence Summer 2014 Intro to Fashion Journalism: Florence 3 credits

Photos STeVehdC, ellenM1

Visit the stunningly beautiful and historic city of Florence! Students will examine all facets of contemporary fashion and its influence on the culture of Italy and the world at large. Critique trends and designers! Students will develop fashion writing, reporting, multimedia and blogging skills.

The Office of International Programs will provide a detailed cost summary.

More info: visit colum.edu/internationalprograms

Journalism Department

Questions? Contact instructor Yolanda Joe, yjoe@colum.edu

This is an intense international travel/ study course designed to prepare students to report, write and produce print, broadcast and multimedia projects about the politics, history, economics and culture of Europe. Based in London, students will see how CNN, BBC , the New York Times, MSNBC, the Associated Press, and Reuters cover Europe from London. They will interview members of the British government, Scotland Yard, World Bank, non-governmental organizations (NGOs), leaders in the arts, and prominent international correspondents and newsmakers.

Upon successful completion of this course, students will be able to:

• analyze international topics, politics, and social, economic and cultural problems;

• pitch, research, report, and produce

spot news, feature stories and multimedia projects about the United Kingdom and Europe;

• develop strategies for covering a conti-

nent and producing and distributing news dispatches and blogs;

• offer news and feature stories to stu-

dent publications like The Chronicle’s website, News Beat, Metro Minutes, the new Global News Student Exchange;

• develop news sources and media contacts in Europe;

• navigate the international press corps

and demonstrate an understanding of the geographical, logistical, visual and deadline pressures of being an international correspondent.

Prerequisite: Permission of instructor.

Contact Rose Economou at reconomou@colum.edu or 312.369.8919

Spend two weeks during J-Term in Dublin working as a multimedia journalist. We’ll be reporting, writing, blogging, taking photos and shooting video in Ireland’s capital – and meeting some of the country’s leading journalists and officials. Plus, we’ll see some amazing sites and experience another culture.

Course numbers: JOUR 465 & JOUR 565 Requirements: This course is open to all majors with permission of instructor.

For more information, contact Suzanne McBride smcbride@colum.edu

-5621J 1J | 53 53-462

Ing Coverope eur m o Fr

on d Ln o

, 2010

y 4-23

Januar

ts

| 3 credi

July 16 to August 3, 2007 3credits Visit Guadalajara in the heart of Mexico, the birthplace of mariachi music, charros and tequila.

Over three intense weeks students will learn and write about the culture and traditions of Mexico.

The course also will include a field trip to Puerto Vallarta and day trips to Tequila, Lake Chapala and other locales.

Photos TERESA PUENTE | Design ELIO LETURIA

Interested students must write a 300-word essay on why you want to study in Mexico and also include the name of a faculty reference. For more information, please contact Teresa Puente at 312-344-8911, tpuente@colum.edu or stop by her office 201-M in the Journalism Department.

Prerequisites include Reporting for Print and Broadcast and Introduction to CAR. To enroll you must have the permission of the instructor. This course is open to undergraduate and graduate students. Spanish skills are helpful, but not required.

Communication

MEXICO

TRAVEL WRITING 53-2545 There will be an informational meeting Thursday, March 29 at 6 p.m. in the orange hallway.

In addition to tuition, there will be a $1,500 trip fee to be paid to the journalism department. This includes airfare, all lodging in Guadalajara and Puerto Vallarta and transportation for field trips. Students will be responsible for their own meals.

EXPLORE THE WORLD WITH US. COMING SOON FOR SUMMER 2019:

PUBLIC RELATIONS IN MADRID, SPAIN!

Communication 6

student wanderer

For more information, contact the Communication Department, 33 Ida B. Wells Drive, Chicago, Ill. 60605 or call 312.369.8900