ZOOM TEXTILE DOSSIER
Protein fibers in Argentina
CONTENTS
Introduction —Animal textile fibers Wool —Exotic fibers Cashmere Mohair —South American camelids Alpaca and llama Vicuña and guanaco
El Espartano, in collaboration with INTI1 Textiles presents a report on the characteristics, value and contexts in which natural textile fibers are developed in Argentina. AUTHORS Eng. Cecilia Takashima Santiago Saralegui INTI Textiles
1. INTI works with organizations and industries to build a connection between business developments and the needs of the industrial field. At the same time, it builds relationships between its centers and other companies, facilitating the development of innovations that are often beyond the reach of a single company. INTI also acts as a national reference in contributing to ensuring the quality of measures aimed at the care of the environment, health, food, public safety, fair trade and the quality of industrial production.
Argentina produces an extensive variety of natural and exotic fibers in diverse geographical locations and among cultures with their own identity and history, which are valued by a market that seeks sustainability. It is important to understand the different varieties and contexts in which each of these fibers is developed in order to devise development strategies in line with their values.
ABOVE: Llamas in Jujuy province.
NATURAL FIBERS PRODUCED IN ARGENTINA
BOTTOM LEFT: Measurement of camelid fibers using Keisokki equipment, INTI Textiles. BOTTOM RIGHT: A scanning electron microscope (SEM) image of cashmere fiber. ANIMAL ORIGIN
PLANT ORIGIN
INSECT
SHEEP
GOAT
CAMELIDS
SEED
STALK
SILK
WOOL •
CASHMERE •
LLAMA • VICUÑA •
COTTON
CHAGUAR STALKS
MOHAIR •
GUANACO •
(Peku / Takuarusú / Tacuapí) OTHER
• Fibers included in this report
CATEGORIES Textiles are made and manufactured using different types of fibers or combinations thereof, and exhibit different characteristics depending on the use to which they are destined. Textiles can be of natural animal origin, such as wool and silk; or from plants, such as cotton and linen. They can also be chemically synthetic products based on petroleum, such as polyester, acrylic and nylon. Or they can be manufactured and obtained from cellulose polymers or regenerated protein, such as viscose or rayon. The choice of one fiber or another, or the use of a mix of fibers, is made principally in response to functional and economic factors.
PHOTOS: SANTIAGO SARALEGUI
ZOOM
CHARACTERISTICS Some properties – such as strength, elasticity, stiffness, ability to absorb and release moisture, and fire resistance, among others – allow us to determine aspects such as durability, protection against the elements, thermal regulation, and water repellency, or characteristics such as comfort, texture and appearance. While synthetic fibers gain market share and mass appeal due to their versatility and low cost, interest in natural fibers is growing in sectors of society that demand greater environmental responsibility and enjoy the use of natural materials.
TRENDS Sustainability has become a priority for the textile industry. Today, companies must innovate to reduce the environmental impact of their production processes, minimize their carbon footprint and take into consideration the life cycle of their products. In this regard, social responsibility becomes more relevant when we begin to ask who makes the clothes we wear and under what working conditions. As part of this transformation, the use of natural fibers in balance with sustainable development is a trend that fits perfectly with a growing group of consumers that are interested in healthy lifestyles and environmental responsibility, and who value local production and cultural diversity. TEXTILE DOSSIER
49
Animal textile fibers Fibers derived from animals are categorized as protein fibers and there are two main types: keratin (mammal hairs, from sheep, goats, camelids and others) and fibroin (secreted by insects, such as silk). The natural attributes and technical properties of animal fibers are combined with sustainable productive models to generate a wide range of products and applications. Like nature itself, the physical-chemical structure of keratin fibers is highly complex, which endows it a variety of unique properties. GLOBAL PRODUCTION OF ANIMAL FIBERS, 2016 (%)
TOTAL 91,971 mkg
22.7% COTTON
68.8% SYNTHETIC FIBERS
0.3% LINEN
6.7% REGENERATED CELLULOSIS
0.2% SILK
1.2% WOOL
0.1% OTHER ANIMAL FIBERS
Wool and other animal fiber products have many attributes that are beneficial for their use in clothing, interiors and architecture. Among these properties, are moisture control and thermal regulation, UV protection, high thermal resistance, breathability, sound reduction, toxic chemical absorption, fire retardant and wear resistance. Recent research is studying how these properties influence our health, our well-being during sleep, the elimination of static charges, combating skin problems, and also reversing the belief that wool or animal hair can cause allergies. In terms of quality, the main determinants that define animal fibers are their fineness or diameter, crimping or curling, strength, resilience and color. These aspects determine processing methods and the final characteristics of the products. Thus, the finer the fibers, the lighter and finer quality of yarns that can be made. In the INTI Textiles laboratories, the physical and chemical properties of fibers, threads and tissues are measured to obtain objective values for classifying, comparing and improving products and their processes, as well as establishing standards that ensure the correct marketing for the benefit of all parties. In addition to measuring equipment, the INTI has pilot scale spinning and weaving modules and a working team made up of scientists, engineers, designers and trend experts. The objective is to study and publicize the natural fibers produced in Argentina and to promote relationships with artisans, industrialists and designers who can provide deeper knowledge about the materials, machines and processes available. It enhances manufacturing and creative possibilities, and expands opportunities for innovation, thus adding local value and averaging design, identity and quality for the local and international market.
ARGENTINE PRODUCTION
WORLDWIDE PRODUCTION
SPECIES
POPULATION
SHORN ANIMALS (PER YEAR)
ANNUAL PRODUCTION OF FIBER (KG)
POPULATION
ANNUAL PRODUCTION (KG)
VICUÑA
72,678 - 127,072 [1]
3,623
845
403,519 - 457,913
7,000
Peru (47-52%), Bolivia (23-26%), Argentina (18-28%) and Chile (4%)
GUANACO
2,087,039 [2]
6,000
2,000
2,153,069
2,000
Argentina (96%) and Chile (4%)
CASHMERE
700,000*
18,140
5,000 [4]
700,000
28,238,000
China (55%), Mongolia (15%) and others (Afghanistan, Iran, Turkey)
ALPACA
–
–
–
4,038,830
6,450,000
Peru (70%), Bolivia (30%)
LLAMA
161,402 [3]
60,000
60,000
668,641**
2,800,000
Peru, Bolivia, Argentina
No data*
650,000 [4]
900,000 [4]
650,000
5,964,000
South Africa (55%), Lesotho (14%), USA (9%), Argentina (8%) and others (Turkey, Australia, New Zealand)
14,000,000
10,410,000 [5]
46,000,000 [5]
2,114,005,000
1,163,000,000
Australia (19.9%), China (19.8%), Russia (9.9%), New Zealand (7.5%), Argentina (2.1%), South Africa (2.4%) England (1.5%), Uruguay (1.5%), others (35.4%)
MOHAIR
SHEEP (WOOL)
PRODUCER COUNTRIES
Sources: Mueller et al. (2015), except: [1] Bolkovic et al. (2008); [2] INTA (2014-2015); [3] INDEC (2002); [4] Lanari (2008); [5] Federación Lanera Argentina (Argentine Wool Federation), ZAFRA (2014-2015). World population data is calculated from the sum of the population of the main producing countries World production data: IWTO Market Information (2015) Peru Data: IV National Agriculture and Livestock Census (2012), National Institute of Statistics and Informatics (INEI). Census of Vicuña Population, General Directorate of Forestry and Wildlife, Bolivia Data: National Service of Agricultural Health and Food Safety (SENASAG) Notes: (*) The 2002 Agricultural Census reports a population of just over 4 million heads of goats, but they are not differentiated into mohair and cashmere categories. (**) To calculate the llama populations of Peru and Bolivia, only T’amphullis type were considered, as they contain the fleece suitable for textile use. The Q’ara type is a pack animal and generally intended for meat production. In Argentina, there are no differentiated population data by type.
YARN II
50
#01 WOOL Wool, which is made from sheep’s hair, is the animal fiber with the longest tradition in the textile industry and enjoys worldwide renown. In countries like Italy, the UK and China, wool production has achieved successful levels of productivity, accompanied by huge technological advances in manufacturing processes. The same has occurred in countries geared towards primary production, such as Australia, New Zealand, South Africa, Uruguay and Argentina. With an output of just over one million tons per year, wool currently accounts for 1.2% of global fiber production, and efforts to maintain its market presence seek to position it as a fiber that offers maximum technical features, along with excellent quality and comfort, in addition to targeting higher income sectors. Wool production in Argentina is an economic activity of vital importance for the Patagonian region, which is home to the largest proportion of sheep in the country and the most important breeds, Merino and Corrediale. It also extends to the Northwest, Mesopotamia and the Pampas plain regions. According to the Federación Lanera Argentina (Argentine Wool Federation), output for the 2016/2017 season totaled 42,700 tons of raw or “dirty” wool. Over 90% of the wool produced is exported washed and combed, mainly to Europe, but also to China, Turkey and Peru, among other destinations. In order to position Argentine wool in a highly competitive market, great efforts had to be made to apply regulatory systems that provide quality assurance for exports. The INTI (National Industrial Technology Institute) laboratory, together with other labs belonging to the INTA (National Agricultural Technology Institute) participating in the “Prolana” program run by what is now the Ministry of Agribusiness, carries out precise checks on the fineness and commercial performance of Argentine wool to set a market price in line with international values. In addition to its quality, Patagonian wool is prized for a number of properties that are becoming increasingly important in debates related to social and environmental responsibility, such as organic wool certifications, the implementation of methods to combat soil desertification, prevent overgrazing and the assurance of high standards of animal welfare. There are still many opportunities for the country to add value to this globally recognized raw material. Domestic clothing and interior textiles companies are setting their sights on industrial and artisanal developments that will enable wool to be used in combination with other valuable natural fibers, such as those of camelid origin, cashmere, mohair and silk.
PHOTO: SANTIAGO SARALEGUI
PHOTO: SANTIAGO SARALEGUI
TOP: Sheep fleece inspection and containment in pens. BOTTOM: Sheep shearing in the province of Chubut.
PHOTO: SANTIAGO SARALEGUI
ZOOM
TEXTILE DOSSIER
51
Exotic fibers This group of fibers termed “exotic”, “special” or “luxury” accounts for just 0.1% of world production and includes cashmere, mohair, camel, yak, angora and camelid fibers (alpaca, llama, vicuña and guanaco). #02 CASHMERE Cashmere comes from goats; it is a short fine fiber (15 to 17 microns), which is very soft and light. It is produced in oriental countries such as China, Mongolia and Pakistan, mainly for knitwear and, when mixed with fine wool, for tailoring fabrics. It is the second most important fiber of animal origin, after wool, although production is considerably smaller (30 thousand tons per year) and it holds a higher market value due to its exclusive attributes. In Argentina, a study of the hair produced by different populations of goats used for meat production in northern Patagonia and the provinces of Mendoza and La Pampa revealed they have excellent characteristics, comparable to those of cashmere fiber. The first textile productions using Argentine cashmere fiber have already been launched, opening up interesting opportunities for further exploration.
#03 MOHAIR Mohair comes from the Angora goat; it is a coarser fiber (23 to 30 microns), but one that is long, silky and very shiny. It is mainly produced in South Africa for garment production. The Mohair Program, launched in Argentina in 1998 by the Ministry of Agribusiness with the aim of improving the quantity and quality of this fiber through the implementation of technology in production systems and the creation of small producer associations, enabled production to be increased to over 900 tons per year. At present, the provinces of Neuquén and Río Negro are home to smallscale fiber processing plants and are yarn producers.
South American camelids Camelids are thought to be distant relatives of camels, but what is certain is that they are native to the high Andean region of Argentina, Peru, Bolivia, Chile and Ecuador. Camelids are divided into domestic species (llamas and alpacas) and wild species (vicuñas and guanacos). The difference is that, while the former are suitable for livestock production, the latter are protected species and their commercial exploitation is governed by strict conservation measures backed by international organizations, which are designed to prevent their extinction and preserve biodiversity. In other words, since they are wild species of fauna, the protection and conservation of their natural way of life must prevail over any economic interests. #04 ALPACA AND LLAMA Peru and Bolivia are the main producers of these fibers that boast excellent characteristics, with an output of over 6,000 tons per year. Alpaca and llama fibers are classified into different grades of fineness, levels of quality and a wide range of colors (shades of whites, browns, grays and blacks) for a variety of applications in clothing and home textiles. Llama fiber offers greater uniformity and coarse fiber content, while genetic advances in alpaca fiber have made it possible to maximize production and improve its fineness, thereby achieving more uniform fleeces that better meet the requirements of the market. It is estimated that over 160,000 llamas are reared by the local inhabitants of Northwest Argentina, who make use of their meat and wool, mainly in subsistence conditions. Llamas are strong and hardy animals that can weigh up to 150 kg. Under the microscope, the fineness of their fiber ranges from 22 to 33 microns, making it coarser than other fibers, although its softness would suggest otherwise. With a smoother cortex than that of wool, llama fiber has less bounce and more drape, is soft to the touch and possesses excellent thermal properties, as a result of larger hollows in its internal structure. It is an excellent fiber for use in home textiles. One of the most complex features of the production chain is the collection and classification stage. Fiber producers are smallscale operators and are scattered over hundreds of kilometers of high mountain, often without roads. Fiber collection requires logistical and economic resources, but above all, the local knowledge needed to reach remote places and gain the trust of producers—factors that would appear to contradict market logic. In the Northwest Argentina YARN II
region, one can find industrial-scale processing plants that collaborate with fiber producers, artisans and design entrepreneurs to develop high-value products, in a highly diverse context with a strong local identity.
52
ABOVE (LEFT): Angora goat, Mohair fiber. ABOVE (RIGHT): Cashmere goat.
PHOTO: SANTIAGO SARALEGUI
ABOVE: Vicuñas / Manual dehairing of guanaco fleece at Cooperativa Payún Matrú, province of Mendoza. PREVIOUS PAGE: Llamas in the province of Catamarca.
ZOOM
#05 VICUÑA AND GUANACO The Northwest region of Argentina is home to more than 100,000 vicuñas, which inhabit magnificent landscapes over 3,000 meters above sea level. They are smaller, lighter and more agile animals than llamas, with a maximum weight of 45 kg. It is common to see them in groups, near tourist routes, drinking water or eyeing observers suspiciously. When transformed into delicate clothing, vicuña fiber is notable for its softness, shine, color and appearance. The garments it produces are light but have excellent thermal properties. It is one of the most highly valued and appreciated textile materials in the world. In addition to having excellent attributes, it owes its market positioning to the low volume of fiber produced annually (just 7 tons worldwide compared to over 2.1 million tons of wool) and the high costs involved in its production and processing. The main company that dominates the vicuña fiber business belongs to the LVMH (Louis Vuitton Moet Hennessy) group. The guanaco is a sturdy and quick-tempered animal that can weigh over 100 kg. Its coat has similar characteristics to that of the vicuña, although it is slightly coarser but still very fine in comparison with other fibers, and with a small variation in tone. It typically inhabits the Andean and Patagonian steppes. Most of the world’s guanacos are to be found in Argentina (estimated to number over 2 million), making them an extremely valuable renewable natural resource for the country. Guanaco fiber has broad-ranging textile potential, but, as is the case with the vicuña, its productive and commercial development poses a number of challenges. In the provinces of Jujuy and Catamarca, the entire community participates in the vicuña shearing events. The system used is known as “chaku”, an ancestral method that involves people marching along holding ropes decorated with colored ribbons, which are used to herd the vicuñas into pens. A similar technique is employed in the province of Mendoza and in Patagonia, where cooperatives and private enterprises have to cover great distances to round up, shear and then release the guanacos. Though they display much greater variety, like the llama, vicuñas and guanacos have coats made up of two layers: one composed of coarse long fibers, and another inner layer of very fine short fibers, which provides excellent protection against the cold. Once sheared, the fiber must undergo dehairing—the elimination of coarse fibers—if it is to produce excellent quality fabrics and garments, as well as spinning processes that are meticulously calibrated according to their unique characteristics. TEXTILE DOSSIER
53
Within this complex scenario, Argentina seeks to ensure greater benefits for local economies, the inclusion of the inhabitants of the Puna and Patagonia and the preservation of these species. We face technological challenges ahead and must overcome obstacles to the commitment to reaching agreements between the scientific, political, legal and private sectors. As is the case with any natural resource, actions are needed to enable sustainable use and equitable benefits for society. Training and professionalizing the sector, facilitating access to resources for obtaining and processing fibers, using design to improve the quality of products and their positioning and creating marketing strategies are all key elements for achieving the desired growth of the industry.
SOURCES • Arzamendia, Y., Baldo, JL, Vilá, B. (2013), La vicuña: manual para su conservación y uso sustent-
• Federación Lanera Argentina (Argentine Wool Federation) http://www.flasite.com/
able, 1st ed., Buenos Aires: CONICET - National Council of Scientific and Technical Research
• Lanari, M. R. (2008), ““Producción de fibras caprinas–Mohair y Cashmere–en Argentina”, Revista
• INDEC (2002), National Agricultural Survey
argentina de producción animal, 28 (3), 255-259
• INTA (2014-2015), “Distribución y densidad de guanacos (Lama guanicoe) en la Patagonia”
• Mueller, J. P., Rigalt, F., Lamas, H., Sacchero, D. M., Cancino, A. K., and Wurzinger, M. (2015),
• International Wool Textile Organization (2018), “Statistics for the Global Wool Production and
“Fiber quality of South American camelids in Argentina: a review”. Animal Genetic Resources/
Textile Industry”, IWTO Market Information, Edition 13
Ressources génétiques animales/Recursos genéticos animales, 56, 97-109