Smile sept2016

THE SON ALSO RISES M A G A Z I N E F O R C E B U PA C I F I C • S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 6

Hiking Mount Pinatubo with mom, dad and four-year-old

TURTLE RECALL Saving the shelled residents of Tubbataha

r u o y t e G ace on f e gam Take an action-packed adventure in the great outdoors *(costumes optional)*

Welcome aboard A note from the chief

Stories behind the numbers During the first half of 2016, Cebu Pacific ferried over 10 million passengers around the network.

That’s 10 million travel stories, big and small, that we as an airline are in some measure a part of. One story is particularly intriguing to me, and it doesn’t belong to any one person flying from one destination to another, but rather to entire populations.

Our rising passenger numbers to destinations in the Visayas and Mindanao — to places like Tacloban, Tagbilaran and Siargao — speak of growth and development, not just in terms of tourism, but also in trade and industry. While there are a lot of tourists exploring the rugged beauty of the countryside and experiencing the warmth and openness of smaller

Lance Gokongwei CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER

communities, there are also more people from once-remote places moving around the archipelago and across the region for business, family and other social pursuits. Our mobility as a people has a direct effect on our future prospects, and the numbers tell us those prospects are pretty bright. We at Cebu Pacific are delighted to be contributing to this upward trend, and honored to be part of all the travel stories yet to unfold. Happy travels, everybody!

SMILE is published on behalf of Cebu Pacific Air by Ink Publishing Pte Ltd • 51 Changi Business Park Central 2, The Signature #04-11A/12, Singapore 486066 • tel: +65 6324 2386 • fax: +65 6491 5261 • ink-global.com • waytogo.cebupacificair.com MCI (P) 124/02/2016 All articles and photographs published herein are created by the authors and photographers at their own discretion and do not necessarily represent the views of the airline. All material is strictly copyrighted and all rights are reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in whole or in part without the prior written permission of the copyright holder. All prices and data are correct at the time of publication.

ADVERTISING Group Publisher Mohan Gopal Advertising Manager Andrew Lugtu Brand Managers Nastassja Lacsamana, Dianne Nicole Cuarto Commercial Director David Bloomfield Tel: +65 6324 2386 Email: smile@ink-global.com INK Chief Finance Officer Jim Campbell Chief Executives Michael Keating & Simon Leslie Associate Design Director Terence Goh Chief Sub-Editor Jonathan Evans Editorial Director Alexandra Karplus

September 2016 Smile 3

Editor’s note

This month in Smile

Days of being wild The idea of an adrenaline-pumped issue catapulted me right smack to my early childhood in Surigao City, which back then seemed to have the unenviable post of welcoming all tropical storms as they barreled into the country. As a result, the town was always without power, school was always out, and my siblings and I were forever left to our own devices to keep ourselves entertained. It was never a problem — we taunted scorpions out of their hiding holes in the ground, jumped off the roof to prove a certain level of bravado (or, as the grown-ups called it, a particular kind of stupidity), climbed trees to pry beetles off the leaves, and waded in the murky waters of flooded rice fields. Our entertainment required no money, just a big imagination and a few costume changes. The world out there was vast and endless, and a superhero couldn’t possibly get bored.

It was in the spirit of letting loose our caped inner kids that this issue was pulled together. We trailed a four-year-old on a trek up Mount Pinatubo (page 54); dove into the waters of Tubbataha along with the rangers and scientists protecting the park (page 60); rappeled into cold dark caves in Samar (page 70); and learned how to ride the waves in Siargao (page 83). Enjoy this tribute to the wild ones. The stories — and awesome photography — will leave you breathless. Happy reading!

Tara FT Sering Editor

Reader tip: You can find even more travel ideas in Smile’s digital platform, waytogo.cebupacificair.com

WHAT WAS YOUR DREAM ADVENTURE AS A KID?

Marlon Espino Art director “I wanted to hitchhike across Africa, just like in the movies.”

Kat Zuño-Mateo Jonathan Evans Deputy editor Chief sub-editor “As a kid, I dreamt of “As a boy there was taking a plane to the US to nothing more exciting to visit Disneyland and see me than a night spent in Mickey Mouse in person. a rudimentary tent in our I cried when it finally back garden. I still love it happened. I was 21.” even now.”

Delle Chan Digital editor, Waytogo “I really wanted to believe that the world of Harry Potter was real, so I prayed so hard for a Hogwarts acceptance letter for my 11th birthday.”

Aaron Low Photo editor “To visit the seven wonders of the world within a day.”

September 2016 Smile 9

Our crew this issue

WE ASKED THIS MONTH’S TALENTED SET OF CONTRIBUTORS:

What’s the most adrenalinepumping trip you’ve ever been on?

MIKE AQUINO Writer, “Zen and the art of surfing” “Just this July, I boarded a ferry from Gili Trawangan to Bali.

The awesomely choppy ride would have been fun, if not for the fact we were fearing for our lives from beginning to end.”

TATA MAPA Writer and food stylist, “Thrill of the grill” “The time I went whitewaterrafting in Bali. We finally reached the calm waters after the rush of the rapids when our boatman decided to up the ante by tossing me into the river!”

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September 2016

TOMMY SCHULTZ Writer and photographer, “Defending paradise” “Paddling around the Bacuit archipelago, camping on deserted island beaches, everything was going great until a huge storm blew in. The cyclone winds almost blew us out into the middle of the South China Sea. Luckily, we were picked up by a passing fishing boat before we were lost at sea.”

LOUIE-AN PILAPIL Writer, “Zen and the art of surfing” “I enjoy being out in nature — hiking and the occasional bike ride —but I’m not a daredevil. So the most physically taxing and heartpumping thing I’ve ever done is surf.

And you’ll read all about it here.”

JAR CONCENGCO Photographer, “Thrill of the grill” “I trekked out alone at 5am to the Old Tokkaido Road in Hakone (1.5hr train ride away from Haneda), in search of the 400-year-old tea house Amazake Chaya. There were times when the hike was so steep, I didn’t know if I could take another step!”

LESTER V. LEDESMA Writer and photographer, “Peak parenting” and “Game of stones” “Central Sumatra in Indonesia. I thought the submachine gun that my guide carried was a bit of an overkill, but I soon learned it was because a man-eating tiger had been spotted in the very same jungle we were in. Needless to say, my adrenaline went haywire every time he paused and pointed the weapon somewhere. At the end of the trek, he test-fired the gun — it didn’t work.”

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HOT SHOTS HERE ARE OUR FAVORITE #MYSMILESNAP PHOTOS ON INSTAGRAM. TAG YOURS AND GET A CHANCE TO BE FEATURED NEXT MONTH

We want to hear from you We'll be celebrating our 10th anniversary in October! To mark this huge milestone, we’re looking back at the very best of Smile — the most memorable covers,

@jonie_lakwatsero ponders life at Jang Jang Hanging Bridge in Benguet

@johnnywanderland at Miag-ao Church in Iloilo

the most inspiring features, and much more. And we need your help! Head to facebook.com/ smilemag to take part in our ‘A Decade of Smile’ survey. Lucky respondents will get a prize.

We want to hang out with @jointhejourneyph and @tatianachahine in Panglao, Bohol

Loving @vin_aranas87’s shot of the girls at the Lake Sebu School of Living Tradition

Write to us, join our contests, show us your pics and stay updated. Follow us on Smile Magazine for Cebu Pacific and smilemag. And catch up on old issues of Smile at ink-live/emagazines/smile

Reporting the buzz

KC Ramirez Tells us all about Filipino startup Perle de l'Orient

14 Smile September 2016

Mikka Wee Recommends affordable Michelin-starred restos in Singapore

Nora Kyrkjebo Scours the network for fun events, and recommends a few good reads

Ruben Nepales Chats with Kristen Stewart about her latest projects

Outtakes

Behind the scenes

From the drawing board ith me up w How we ca ’s cover this month

We initially thought Siem Reap’s ruins would make the perfect backdrop...

For cute kids wearing colorful superhero costumes

BEHIND THE LENS

COVER HEROES

MAGAZINE F O R C E B U PA CIFIC • SE PTEMBER

2016

THE SON ALSO

RISES

Hiking Mount Pinatubo with mom, dad and four-year-o ld

TURTLE RECALL

Saving the shelled residents of Tubbataha

IS COMPLIMENTAR Y • SEPTEMBER 2016 • THE ACTION AND ADVENTURE ISSUE

middle of a waterfall during a storm on the first shooting day. His camera got wet and stopped working, but luckily, he had a spare.

“I had to rely on my backup camera for the rest of the shoot,” he says. Good job, Tim!

But then we thought it was more fun to put them on an ox cart, so...

OUR

Despite the wet weather, art director Marlon and photographer Tim managed to coax cute smiles from our two kid models, Snar and David.

“It took some time to work out how to get them animated, but I think the best shots happened when we just let them be kids,” Tim says. Here they are with (from left) stylist Franco, shoot producer Jorge, Siengly, Marlon and Tim.

Photographer Tim Gerard Barker got caught in the

r Get you on e c fa e m ga Take an action-p acked adventure in the great outdoors *(costumes optiona l)*

COVER.TS_XY

+ Spine7.2mm.ind

d 1

ELSEWHERE IN THIS ISSUE

THE BIGGEST SMILES COME AFTER A JOB WELL DONE. THANKS, GUYS!

Jar, JP, Tata and makeup artist Ren after shooting “Thrill of the grill”

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The Surfistas take a class picture with coach Elaine Abonal (in black)

He made it!

Mike takes home official proof of surfing in Siargao

Trending

Exclusively on waytogo.cebupacificair.com

Need some travel inspiration?

VISIT WAYTOGO FOR EXHILARATING DESTINATION FEATURES, AS WELL AS UPDATES ON THE HOTTEST EVENTS AND ATTRACTIONS IN THE REGION. 7 SPECTACULAR WATERFALLS IN THE PHILIPPINES YOU MUST SEE Feast your eyes on these stunning natural attractions across the country

10 BUDGET TRAVEL TIPS YOU NEED TO KNOW Follow our expert advice on how not to break the bank when you're making a trip

5 NATURAL ATTRACTIONS IN SORSOGON THAT WILL AMAZE YOU Revel in nature at this ecotourism hotspot, which is home to beautiful beaches, refreshing springs and more

CREATE A TRAVEL KIT Assemble your own travel mood boards with the Waytogo stories that inspire you.

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Click the “Save to My Travel Kit” icon on your

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Select which mood board you’d like to pin the stories to

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WATCH COOL VIDEOS

HOW TO WRAP FILIPINO TAMALES Learn how to prepare Pampanga's favorite breakfast dish with our step-by-step tutorial

18 Smile September 2016

PHOTO BY CELINE REYES (SORSOGON)

Watch out for this logo in the pages of Smile for web exclusives like videos, interviews and travel checklists.

September 2016

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The action advent & ure issue

Peak parenting Lester V. Ledesma trails the Bedural family as they trek Mount Pinatubo

60 Defending paradise A team of rangers, scientists and conservationists are on a mission to protect Tubbataha’s turtles

70 Rolling in the deep Discover the wondrous alien landscapes that lie beneath Samar

83 Zen and the art of surďŹ ng Two beginners go from wiped out to blissed out in Siargao September 2016 Smile 21

The

buzz What you need to know about this month

Eco-friendly design comes to adventure gear. Turn to page 41 for more information

PHOTO BY GETTY IMAGES

INSIDE NEED TO KNOW COOL FINDS THINGS WE LOVE EXPERT ADVICE HACKS AND TIPS GABFESTS

September 2016 Smile 25

The

buzz MID-AUTUMN TRIVIA COOL EVENTS

Sounds of September Do you like it loud or quiet? Whatever you prefer, there’s an event you can check out this month LOUD

ULTRA BEACH BALI 2016

Enjoy performances from the likes of Afrojack, Martin Garrix, Galantis and many more. September 15 & 16; Potato Head Beach Club; ultrabali.com

BLUE MAN GROUP

ASIDE FROM MOONCAKES, OTHER FOODS TRADITIONALLY EATEN DURING MIDAUTUMN INCLUDE PUMPKIN FOR GOOD HEALTH AND TARO FOR GOOD LUCK. OSMANTHUS WINE, WHICH SYMBOLIZES A HAPPY LIFE, IS THE DRINK OF CHOICE. MID-AUTUMN FALLS ON SEPTEMBER 15.

This phenomenal performance group is finally making its way to Manila. Their thrilling high-energy show is truly unforgettable.

September 14-25; The Theatre at Solaire; blueman.com FUN FIESTA

Make merry TOURNAMENT

If you’re heading to Tokyo, catch a sumo match at Kokugikan Stadium. September 11-25; check the schedule and book your tickets in advance at sumo.or.jp/En

A INTERNATIONAL BOOK FAIR MANIL Join your fellow bibliophiles and hoard new books to read at the 37th Manila International Book Fair. September 14-18; manilaintbookfair.com

BIG BANG DATA This exhibition will allow you to gain a deeper understanding of how data is transforming our world. Until October 16; marinabaysands.com QUIET 26 Smile September 2016

Head to Naga City and join thousands of devotees as they honor Our Lady of Peñafrancia with parades and processions. Load up on spicy Bicolano cuisine while you’re there.

Festivities last until September 18. Check the updated schedule on facebook.com/ basilica4400

TEXT BY NORA KYRKJEBO; KAT MATEO; PHOT0 BY GETTY IMAGES

GRAND SUMO

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buzz C

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Find out where to stay, where to eat, and what else you can do in Siargao this month at waytogo.cebupacificair.com

28 Smile September 2016

PHOTO BY GETTY IMAGES

Surf ’s up!

The

buzz EXCITING STUFF

This month’s perks at The Pen

Suite deal Book the Ruby Revelry room package for a chance to win the ultimate Peninsula pampering experience, plus a ruby pendant designed by Jul B. Dizon Jewellery exclusively for the hotel’s ruby anniversary.

TIME TO PARTY

Fab at 40 Makati’s grand hotel livens up the city as it marks a major milestone

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s the city’s premier luxury hotel, The Peninsula Manila is no stranger to lavish parties — birthdays, weddings, anniversaries, big office socials. But this September, the landmark on the corner of Ayala and Makati Avenues, is throwing its biggest blowout yet — a year-long celebration marking four decades of hospitality. The hotel opened its doors in 1976, just in time for the International Monetary Fund-World Bank meeting, which saw thousands of local and foreign delegates descend upon Metro Manila.

Thus began the hotel’s long history of putting local icons front and center to create unique local experiences for guests, a credo that continues today.

For instance, the halo-halo, served at The Lobby — the city’s enduring social nexus — is the stuff of merienda legend; and the Old Manila restaurant, helmed by Michelin-trained chef de cuisine Bertrand Charles, pays tribute to a more refined, bygone age. “The Peninsula Manila is in a thriving 40-year relationship with the city,” says Mariano Garchitorena, the hotel’s director of communications.

“So this year’s Pen anniversary will be a celebration of Metro Manila.”

Festivities kick off on September 14 and include dining and hotel stay promotions, a jazzed-up jeepney zipping around town and the work of National Artist Ang Kiukok. peninsula.com/manila

For more hotel events and promotions in Metro Manila, check out waytogo.cebupacificair.com

Feast at Escolta The main buffet hall pulls out all the stops with lavish spreads — enjoy prime cuts, pastas, sumptuous roasts and seafood for just PHP1,976 per person (net of taxes), in honor of the hotel’s birth year.

The Peninsula Jeepney Keep an eye out for the latest addition to the hotel’s fleet of luxury rides — a brand-new, fully air-conditioned 8-seater based on the 1955 Willys Jeepney by Sarao Motors, one of the country’s pioneering jeepney companies.

September 2016 Smile 31

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SUITE LIFE

Stellar spread Celebrity chefs descend on the Thai capital for a week of heavenly food

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tarred restaurants and rated chefs are a hot topic these days — Singapore’s first Michelinrated eateries recently stirred up quite a frenzy — so if you’re a foodie on the prowl for dishes worthy of your bucket list, head over to the Anantara Siam Bangkok Hotel this month. From September 19 to 25, nine chefs from eight countries around the world will take over the luxury hotel’s dining outlets for the 17th World Gourmet Festival to offer exciting and exclusive courses. The chefs in the line-up include (from left to right): chef and restaurateur

Bobby Chinn, best known for his Vietnam restaurants and now based in London; Mauro Colagreco, founder and chef of two-Michelin

star restaurant Mirazur in France; and Ana Ros, chef and co-owner of Hisa Franko, which overlooks sloping hills in the Slovenian countryside.

Anantara Siam Bangkok, Thailand; +66 2 126 8866; siam-bangkok.anantara.com

SUPER SPOT

Swell season Book a stay at Turtle Surf Camp along General Luna’s Tourism Road. This cozy, laid-back inn is designed to feel like a big family seaside home. There only four rooms — three for sharing and a family room good for four — all of them bright, airy and modern.

Amenities include air-conditioning and WiFi access in rooms, which is not to be taken for granted on the island. Communal spaces are designed for hanging out, whether with other people or by yourself on a hammock, strumming a banjo while staring up at the stars. The open-air kitchen encourages guests to make and share their meals, whether it’s fresh fruit from the market or meats on the grill, while sharing stories from the morning’s surf adventure. Adventure packages are also available. Turtle Surf Camp, General Luna, Siargao Island, Philippines; +63 947 740 8321; surfcampsiargao.com

September 2016 Smile 33

The

buzz USEFUL GUIDE

Follow the stars French tire company Michelin started awarding stars to restaurants 90 years ago via its eponymous guide. Its anonymous inspectors evaluate establishments based on these criteria: the quality of the dishes; mastery of flavor and cooking techniques; how the cuisine expresses the personality of the chef; value for money; and consistency between visits. Here’s what these coveted star ratings mean: very good cooking in its category; try the restaurant if it is on the way

excellent cooking that’s worth a detour

exceptional cooking that’s very well worth a special journey

MUST-TRY

Heavenly eats These Michelin-starred restaurants in Singapore prove you don’t need deep pockets to enjoy exquisite meals

A plate of soya sauce chicken from this hawker stall starts at just SGD2, making it the cheapest Michelinstarred dish in the world.

A shimmering slick of glaze gilds the chicken skin, and the meat is full of flavor.

34 Smile September 2016

Putien Restaurant 127 Kitchener Road, +65 6295 6358; open for lunch from 11.30am–3pm and dinner from 5.30– 10.30pm Fujian restaurant Putien was awarded a Michelin star for its fresh and delicious offerings, which may look simple, but come packed with flavor.

Try the Heng Hwa Bee Hoon (SGD8.90), a plate of hand-milled thin rice noodles cooked in a stock made with hens and pork bones. The dish is topped with seaweed, peanuts, shrimp and clams.

Hill Street Tai Hwa Pork Noodles 466 Crawford Lane, Tai Hwa Eating House #01-12, +65 6292 7477; open from 9.30am–9pm (closed on the first and third Mondays of the month) For only SGD5-10, you can enjoy a bowl of Michelinstarred Teochew-style bak chor mee. This noodle dish is topped with minced pork, slices of pork and liver, dumplings and ti poh (fried sole).

Candlenut 331 New Bridge Road, #0103 Dorsett Residences, +65 8121 4107; open from noon–2.30pm, 6–10pm (Mon–Sat); candlenut.com.sg Order the Buah Keluak (SGD24) — tender Wagyu beef is smothered in a paste made from black nuts that can only be used after they have been fermented or soaked for a minimum of five days to get rid of their toxins.

For the Michelin Guide’s complete list of Singapore’s most notable restaurants, go to guide.michelin.sg

TEXT BY MIKKA WEE; PHOTOS BY GETTY IMAGES

Hong Kong Soya Sauce Chicken Rice & Noodle Blk 335, Smith Street #02-126, Chinatown Food Complex; open from 10.30am–7pm (Mon, Tue, Thu, Fri); 8.30am–7pm (Sat & Sun)

PROMOTIONAL FEATURE

Artist's impression of the swimming pool

Artist's impression of the audio-visual room

Artist's impression of the business center

Azalea Place Tower

Artist's impression of the building's lobby

Serene sanctuary HERE ARE FIVE REASONS WHY YOU SHOULD CALL ROBINSONS RESIDENCES’ AZALEA PLACE YOUR HOME IN CEBU CITY ACCESS TO THE BEST OF CEBU CITY Azalea Place is located along Gorordo Avenue in Lahug, and is in close proximity to top universities.

The University of the Philippines is right across the property, while the University of San Carlos — one of the oldest and best universities in the Visayas region and in the country — is just a short drive away.

You’ll also be close to Cebu Business Park and Cebu IT Park, where many multinational companies are headquartered.

Fuente Osmeña Circle is just a short drive away, which means you can easily access the many shopping, dining and entertainment options in this buzzing neighborhood.

STRESS-BUSTING AMENITIES The amenities at Azalea Place are designed to help you relax and savor the pleasures of life. There’s a swimming pool, a spa pool, a Japanese-inspired gazebo, reading

nooks, a library and a WiFi lounge.

There’s also an indoor game room where you can hang out with friends, and a gym so you don’t have to sign up for expensive memberships. You can also host movie showings in the audiovisual room.

FACILITIES FOR BUSINESS When work needs to be done while you're at home, simply head to the business center on the premises. If you need a venue for meetings, you can make use of Azalea Place’s function and conference rooms.

THE SPACE YOU NEED Whether you’re looking for a place of your own or hoping to set up a home for your family, you’ll find the right

space at Azalea Place. Choose from the tower’s studio, one- and two-bedroom units.

SAFETY AND CONVENIENCE At Azalea Place, you can put your mind at ease. The building will be manned by security, and there will be CCTVs installed in the common areas.

There are also smoke detectors and fire alarms with sprinklers. A power generator will always be on standby.

Management and maintenance personnel will be on call 24/7 so you can be sure that your needs will always be met. Should you need assistance with anything else, from housekeeping to food delivery, you can also make a booking using the online concierge service, RingRob.

Robinsons Residences has the winning formula for in-city living experience.

Azalea Place by Robinsons Residences is ready for occupancy on August 2017. Go to robinsonsresidences.com or Facebook.com/RobResidences for more information, promotions and to schedule a show floor visit. You can also follow @rlc_residences on Twitter and Instagram.

The

buzz Float Swimwear balances elegance and practicality in its UPF 50+ sleeved maillots, which stay put in the face of wild waves, but are chic enough to pair with skirts and pants for a night on the town. floatswimwear.com

PHP2,500 Float Samantha Bodysuit

PHP5,500 Contach Hirudo Speedboard

Ahon socks and gaiters protect feet from the hazards of roughand-tumble trails. The brand’s gaiters hook on top of shoelaces and are secured at the heel, to stop twigs and pebbles from entering shoes. facebook.com/ ahon.ph ADVENTURE GEAR

Rigged for risk Get stoked with supplies designed by those who know local landscapes best

“B

PHP150PHP200 50x50cm bandanas

38 Smile September 2016

If you’re an environmentalist at heart, go for a bamboo skateboard from Contach Longboards. Renewable bamboo is a sturdy alternative to maple, and many of these designs have multiple wheelbases so you can choose between turn and stability. facebook.com/Contach

PHP950 Ahon Baybayin Gaiters

Whether you’re shielding your face from the elements, or keeping your hair under wraps to prevent helmet hair, these kerchiefs and bandanas from Waves & Pavement Supply Co. won’t irritate your skin. facebook.com/ wavesandpavement or facebook. com/MadKahunaSurfShop

HEY LADIES

HERsHE Xtreme Sports Binder, a sports bra made completely of cotton elastic, aims to give women proper bust support whether they’re running, circuit training or practicing mixed martial arts. Fit is key to this goal, and HERsHE comes in eight sizes to suit all shapes, from petite all the way to XXXL. The snug undergarment minimizes bounce, and its shoulder straps are comfortable but unyielding, floating away from the body when arms are in full motion. PHP798; hershe.com.ph

TEXT BY ZAYIN SALAZAR; PHOTO BY MAKI AGANON (WAVES & PAVEMENT)

eautifully brutal” — that’s how adventure enthusiast Ronald Declarador describes the terrain of the Philippines. That starkly stunning quality is exactly what makes extreme sports here so rewarding. Ronald, co-founder of adventure footgear brand Ahon, is just one of several homegrown adrenaline junkies who have parlayed their experience into designs that will help you embark on adventures in our own backyard.

The

buzz OUT AND ABOUT

Hot spots Author Rosie Milne walks us through a few Singapore spots that call to mind the lead characters of her book — Sophia, Olivia and their common husband Sir Stamford Raffles.

Olivia Cassivelaun Fancourt “This restaurant is named after Olivia, whose first husband was Joseph Cassivelaun Fancourt.

Raffles was her second husband. I always think of Olivia when I eat here.” ocf.com.sg Mount Sophia “According to some accounts, Mount Sophia was named after Sophia

FOR YOUR BOOKSHELF

Love and war

TEXT BY NORA KYRKJEBO

A clutch of intriguing new reads offers both compelling mind games and adventures of the heart The Sympathizer

by Viet Thanh Nguyen The debut novel from this Vietnamborn, US-raised author won the 2016 Pulitzer Prize for Fiction. Its protagonist returns to his homeland of Vietnam after being educated in America — where he developed strong relationships with the CIA — to fight for the communist cause.

Olivia & Sophia

by Rosie Milne This piece of historical fiction focuses on the British founder of modern Singapore, Sir Stamford Raffles, and his first and second wives. You won’t be able to put down this dramatic recounting of these two women’s lives as they set sail on an uncertain adventure to a new world.

The Course of Love

by Alain de Botton Better known as an essayist, de Botton’s second novel is a gorgeous meditation on love. Unlike your typical love story which tends to end with marriage, this story explores the continuing adventure of love after the storybook “happily ever after”.

What Is Not Yours Is Not Yours

by Helen Oyeyemi The awardwinning, Nigerian-born Oyeyemi has been called one of the most gifted writers working today.

This collection of her short stories crosses multiple landscapes and explores several different realities, and makes for a riveting beach or bedtime read.

Raffles, and although this is not the only explanation of its name, I like to think that it’s true. There are plenty of restaurants here where you can raise a glass to Sophia.” We recommend Wild Rocket. wildrocket.com.sg Raffles Hotel Singapore “It wasn’t yet built in Raffles’ day, but I always think of him when I walk through its swanky shopping arcades.” raffles.com/Singapore

All books are available at kinokuniya.com.sg September 2016 Smile 41

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buzz ON OUR RADAR

Purse class Filipino start-up Perle de l’Orient creates genuine leather bags that are simple and sophisticated

I

f you’re ready to invest in highquality accessories that will last a long time, check out Perle de l’Orient — a new Manila-based brand offering classic leather bags.

Ryna Brito launched the brand because she loves the timeless stylishness of leather bags. The 21-year-old entrepreneur also has a strong conviction that such products can be produced in the Philippines at at mid-range prices, with a standard of quality that is on par with leather bags sold in New York and Italy.

Perle de l’Orient’s bags are made of genuine cowhide sourced from Switzerland, India and the Philippines, and produced at a workshop north of Manila. The designs are minimalistic, which highlight the softness of the leather.

The brand’s bestseller is the Victoria, which is as utilitarian as bags get. It’s a tote with comfortable straps and plenty of pockets for your essentials.

It’s unlined, has no hardware, and comes with exposed edges that are cut asymmetrically to show off the leather’s rough side.

The brand has launched 10 designs for its first and second collections just this year, with the third set to come next quarter. Only 20 pieces are made per model, with prices ranging from PHP2,550 for clutches to PHP11,000 for weekender duffels.

Perle de l’Orient is available at perle-de-lorient.com and very soon on zalora. com.ph. You can also place an order at shop.pdlorient@gmail.com

LEATHER CARE

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Clean the surface with a soft, damp cloth. Don’t use upholstery cleaner, wipes or alcohol.

Wipe spills and let the bag air dry. Never use a blow dryer.

High humidity may encourage the growth of mildew, so store your bags in a dry place.

Rotate your bags regularly.

At the very least, air them out from time to time.

Gently rub stubborn stains with a white eraser until the stain is lifted away.

Soak up oil with cornstarch or white chalk dust.

Apply, leave it overnight, then dust off.

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TEXT BY KC RAMIREZ; PHOTO BY VIC GUERRERO

Ryna Brito — founder of and designer at Perle de l’Orient — shares some tips on how to keep your leather bags pristine

The

buzz STRAIGHT FROM HOLLYWOOD

Beyond Bella

INTERVIEW BY RUBEN V NEPALES; PHOTO BY TRUNKARCHIVE.COM / SNAPPER MEDIA

Kristen Stewart is all grown up and ready to call the shots. After transitioning from blockbuster ingénue to indie darling, she’s now set her sights on making her directorial debut

H

er first bite of leading-lady fame was a big one, thanks to the career-making role of Bella Swan, a brooding teenager-turned-vampire consumed by love in the Twilight trilogy. Since wrapping that highprofile franchise, Kristen Stewart has opted to act mostly in low-key indies,

attracting considerable critical acclaim along the way.

In 2014, she became the first American actress to win a César Award, the French equivalent of an Oscar, for her role in director Olivier Assayas’ Clouds of Sils Maria. More recently, she starred opposite Jesse Eisenberg

in Woody Allen’s Café Society, set in 1930s Hollywood. As Vonnie, a secretary working in a big film studio, Kristen got to tool around town in a huge convertible automobile. “Yeah, it was really cool,” she says of steering the vintage top-down. “It was a real stick shift, too. It was difficult.”

September 2016 Smile 45

The

The 26-year-old has also become the face of Chanel, adding her touch of youthful grunge-tinged glamour to the luxury brand’s print ads and promotional videos. When I meet up with her at the Crosby Street Hotel in New York’s Soho neighborhood for this interview, she’s dressed casually in a white tee, gray pants and black patent leather flats, a curious “X” peeping out from the sleeve of her black Rag & Bone jacket. “Oh, I didn’t have my ID last night,” she says with a sheepish smile. “I went to play pool and they were like, ‘You cannot drink.’ I was like, ‘That’s fine.’ So the bouncer put an “X” on my hand.” She admits to loving pool to the point of obsession, and our ensuing chat reveals a single-minded young woman who comes clean about how she learned to embrace the pain of heartbreak, the one time she felt out of place on a movie set, and what Jodie Foster told her when she decided to become a director.

Did you enjoy playing Vonnie, who is ahead of her time in many ways?

It’s cool. I never know how to answer the whole woman question because as soon as you start talking about it,

A scene from Personal Shopper, her second movie with Olivier Assayas

you classify it. You know what I mean?

It is a great question but I hate what happens in my head when I try and answer it.

I’m always like, “We’re just people.”

I hate focusing on it. But in this particular case, sure. Especially in that time period, because then it would absolutely have been impressive and unique for her to take her life into her hands like that and dictate it. So yeah, it’s rad. That’s why I liked it.

She gets her heart broken — could you relate to this?

Oh my God, I’ve been destroyed! Yeah, totally. Yeah, absolutely, yes. Thank God, too.

You just keep going. Every single minute that I’ve spent “dying” has made my life so rich. I would not exchange it for feeling nothing. The worst thing that can happen is when people start shutting down. A lot of people are jaded and messed up by whoever messed them up.

Crazy things happen. You can never ever anticipate how things are actually going to go down. To not regret or blame — taking responsibility for your own happiness is where you should

“I LOVE TO BE THE ONE LOOKING AT PEOPLE... I'M OBSESSED WITH PEOPLE”

start. Because then, you can be happy with someone else. It sounds really obvious. I’m gonna write a self-help book. Be in it. Like if you’re in pain, just be like, oww! Don’t ignore it.

You’ve just finished shooting Ang Lee’s Billy Lynn’s Halftime Walk, which was shot at a ground-breaking 120 frames per second to create an immersive experience. So what was that like?

I can’t wait to see that movie because it’s been described to me as revolutionary — its reels contain more information than our eyes have ever received in a given second. Ang talks about movies now as if he’s watching reality TV, he can’t get close enough.

So I can’t wait to see what he’s talking about because we’ve never seen it.

I was so out of my element on that movie set. That was strange because a set is where I live. Like, I know what’s going on. Joe Alwyn, who plays the title character, was asking me questions because it was his first movie. I was like, “I have absolutely no idea what that thing (camera) is.”

It had two lenses. It was bizarre. So I can’t wait to see what that brings.

If you could be anonymous for one day, what would you do?

I would probably just walk around. I’m

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PHOTO BY GETTY IMAGES

buzz

With Jesse Eisenberg in Café Society

trying to think of actual things, malls and stuff. I’m not super sad about not going to malls. That’s not a problem for me.

Honestly, I would probably just people-watch. I want to be able to stare at everyone and not have them stare back at me because I want to observe. So it would be nice to make that switch because typically, when I go out, if I look up and engage, it’s a whole thing. I love to be the one looking at people. That’s why I’m an actor. I’m obsessed with people and why they do stuff.

What are you working on next?

I usually work in spurts. That’s how it’s been so far. I did five movies in a year

and a half, then at the end of last year I stepped way back. I wrote a short story, developed from a poem I wrote three years ago. In three weeks, I’ll be shooting it as a short film titled Come Swim. I’m so excited about it.

We’re ready to go. I’m “crewed up” — I have a cast, a storyboard. I have my shot list. My friend Josh will be in it.

He’s not a professional actor, but he’s incredible.

Are you psyched about directing for the first time?

I can’t tell you how happy I am. And

it will be quick too. I’ll probably act in a movie after that, but directing is where I want to be.

I’ve wanted to make movies since I was nine years old. I don’t think that there’s a huge divide between acting and directing.

When I told Jodie Foster that I was going to make this movie, she was like, “The first thing you’re going to learn is that you don’t have much to learn and that you’re totally ready.” That’s an incredibly affirming thing to hear from her.

Check out waytogo.cebupacificair.com for more interviews with your favorite Hollywood celebrities.

September 2016 Smile 47

The

buzz WOMAN IN SCIENCE

Digging in Archaeologist Mylene Lising fires up our imagination with ancient artefacts and The Traveling Museum PH

I

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Mylene Lising (fourth from left) with the Traveling Museum PH team

belongs to a team that excavates once a year for a month in Rizal, Kalinga — the site where the Rhinoceros philippinensis has been found.

Another exciting opportunity she has come across is excavating in Dmanisi, Georgia in 2013. “It is one of the most important human evolution sites in the world,” she says.

“The First Humans Out of Africa”, a display of scientific casts of fossils and tools from Dmanisi, is touring different universities in the Philippines this year.

The actual fossils and pieces from which these casts are made are around 1.8 million years old.

This tour came to life thanks to the efforts of event partners like brand experience company COZOZ, Inc., the Georgian National Museum and The Traveling Museum PH. The latter is an outfit that intends to stage new, interactive exhibits on prehistory and human evolution every year, and Mylene is its project director.

The Traveling Museum PH also plans to conduct day visits, lectures and discussions. “We already have a line-up of exhibits and projects for the next five years,” she says. For updates, follow facebook.com/travelingmuseumph

SLEEK RIDE

Hop on The tricycle gets an ecofriendly makeover with the help of the DOST-Industrial Technology Development Institute and the Korean Institute of Materials Science – Association of Southeast Asian Nations.

Launched in July, the “Tryk ni Juan” prototypes feature roofs of abaca fiberreinforced composite, a material that is light, sturdy, biodegradable and easily accessible.

TEXT BY CHARMAINE BAYLON; PHOTOS BY PHILIP SISION (MAIN); GERARDO G. PALAD, DOST-STII MEDIA SERVICE (TRYK)

f it wasn’t for a research paper that she was supposed to write, Mylene Lising would not have discovered her interest in archaeology.

“I was a licensed interior designer who enrolled in graduate school to study Fine Arts at UP Diliman. I was assigned to write a paper on prehistoric art in the Philippines, which required me to do research on archaeology. I got stuck,” she recounts, smiling. Mylene decided to pursue her newfound interest in archaeology and obtained her master’s degree in Quaternary and Prehistory under the Erasmus Mundus International Program at the Musée National d’Histoire Naturelle in Paris in 2015. This year, she got her MA in Archaeology from UP Diliman’s Archaeological Studies Program.

Although she admits to only being “focused on archaeology in the last four years,” Mylene has actually been attracted to this world since she was little. “I grew up in Cagayan Valley, where fossils of extinct animals have been found in what is now Kalinga,” she explains. “In the town of Peñablanca, there are hundreds of caves and some of them have been known to be inhabited by early humans. It is in one of these caves that Dr. Armand Mijares discovered the 67,000-year-old human foot bone.

This cave was literally my playground growing up.”

Now immersed in the field, Mylene

START TRAINING!

PHOTO STUDIO ZAG/ ASIA TRAIL MASTERS

, the and 5, 2017 On March 4 ain Ultra will llera Mount second Cordi ogon, Dalupirip, It ount Ugo in M in ss ld he be 30 races acro of a series of rt pa as , et Bengu rs Series is a Trail Maste an Asia. The Asi rtunities for create oppo e th designed to to e mag ent to pay ho . entire contin em th h roug by running th wild spaces ph ust. nser vationtr cordilleraco

52 Smile September 2016

OUTDOOR LOVE

Moving at nature’s pace MOUNTAIN RUNNER, CONSERVATIONIST AND CORDILLERA MOUNTAIN ULTRA ORGANIZER JP ALIPIO MAKES A CASE FOR RUNNING WILD

T

here’s something to be said about standing alone on an isolated mountain ridge, with only the trees for company. As the vast landscape stretches out in front of you, your scale in the larger scheme of things is suddenly revealed to you with such surprising clarity. Here, the mountain finally reveals its true self to you.

To truly experience the wild, you have to move at nature’s pace. There is something so elemental about scaling a mountain on your own two feet, rather than seeing the landscape through the windshield. You are there yourself, you become an integral part of the landscape you are exploring, and not simply a spectator observing the world from the high perch of your 4x4. Each and every rock is magnified, and every undulation on the trail is

felt from the soles of your feet to your burning lungs as you haul yourself up the mountain.

Mountain running provides you with this kind of access into the wild; you are stripped to the barest of essentials — some good running shoes, minimal clothing, a bottle of water and just enough food to get you through a day on the ridges.

It’s a sensory experience in every sense of the word — the burning sun, the grass as it brushes against your exposed legs, the water droplets falling from the sky onto your skin, the scent of wet earth, the sounds of the birds and the wind and the mist. You feel every single inch of the mountain in vivid detail.

Wild spaces, like gods, need adulation to survive and the Cordillera Mountain Ultra creates this form of

worship. Running, hiking and walking through 50km of jaw-droppingly beautiful trails, across ridges and forests, one can only be left with a sense of awe. And like the gods of old, we make our own offerings to the mountain— our sweat, the calories that are burned and spilled on its hallowed ground, the wonder in our eyes at its ever-changing beauty.

The event not only creates more followers for wild spaces, but it also employs over 100 members of the communities that live within the mountain areas, providing a sustainable source of livelihood for the many families that depend on the mountain directly. In this sense movement at nature’s pace helps the conservation of the wild, and it all starts with thse first few steps down the trail.

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Hiking with the family

PEAK PARENTING Husband-and-wife mountaineers Eduardo and Sharlene Bedural are known for trekking with their toddler, Wyatt.

Lester V. Ledesma trails this intrepid family as they conquer Mount Pinatubo PHOTOGRAPHY BY LESTER V. LEDESMA

54 Smile September 2016

orning finds me on the back of a 4x4 jeep, barreling down a dusty, rocky pathway in the province of Tarlac. I am en route to Mount Pinatubo for a scenic trek that attracts thousands of tourists each year.

But today’s climb is far from routine. I will be walking with a rather famous hiker — Wyatt Maktrav Bedural, a four-year-old who completed his first trek when he was just eight months old. Today’s Mount Pinatubo expedition will mark his 40th climb.

Of course, Wyatt’s parents Eduardo and Sharlene have been along for every single one of these treks, including the one we are embarking on today. They run Nomad Since Birth (wyattmaktrav.com), a popular mountaineering blog that turned their son

M

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Hiking with the family

into an unlikely star. When Sharlene was pregnant with Wyatt, the couple missed climbing so much that they decided to trek to the summit of Pico de Loro in Cavite when Wyatt was a few months shy of his first birthday.

“We missed the outdoors so much but we couldn’t bear to leave our baby at home, so we decided to just bring him with us,” Eduardo reveals. Wyatt completed that trek on his folks’ backs, and more expeditions followed as he grew older. This smiley, stocky boy has already climbed four of the Philippines’ highest peaks — Mounts Apo, Dulang-Dulang, Pulag and Kitanglad.

Such feats have earned the Bedurals

Explore more awesome hiking trails around the Philippines — check out waytogo. cebupacificair.com

56 Smile September 2016

a substantial internet following.

Their blog has been featured in online magazines, and the trio has appeared on numerous local TV documentaries.

While most parents would hesitate to bring their toddler on a rugged hike, these guys obviously know how to mount a family-friendly adventure.

How exactly do they pull this off ?

That’s what I’m here to find out.

UP AND AWAY Our 4x4 drops us off at the starting point for the 7km trek. Before us, the jagged moonscape of Crow Valley spreads out, a swathe of once-deadly pyroclastic material that spilled from the nearby volcano. Mountains of igneous sand surround us, and rocks of all sizes lie beneath our feet. These are fearsome reminders of the destruction wrought by the eruption of Mount Pinatubo on June 15, 1991. I remember seeing Manila blanketed in ash that day, despite the fact that the city was 150km away. In the neighboring provinces of Pampanga, Zambales and

Tarlac, the devastation turned vast areas into wastelands.

“We’ve always wanted to climb Pinatubo but never had the chance until now,” Sharlene confides as we begin the hike up the rocky, sandy highway of dried-up lahar.

Despite her bookish appearance and fair complexion, this lady is a veteran climber who placed first in a mountaineering competition in 2011.

She met Eduardo, a fellow enthusiast, during a hike in Batangas. After a three-month whirlwind courtship, they tied the knot.

I ask the couple how their trekking days have changed now that they are two-plus-one. “I’m just happy to be able to keep climbing mountains”, Eduardo admits. “We’ve had to slow down the pace of our treks and carry double the amount of supplies, but that’s normal. Our priority is for our son to be safe and well cared for.” He muses that his backpack is now mostly filled with clothes, milk and food for young Wyatt.

Trek Pinatubo The most accessible jumpoff point to Mount Pinatubo is the village of Santa Juliana in Tarlac Province, three hours north of Manila by road. Go to the visitors’ center to pay a PHP300 conservation tax. Local guide service costs PHP500 (sorry, you’re not allowed to

In the past, the couple often went traveling on a whim. These days, each trek is preceded by tons of research and a careful eye on the weather.

Still, one thing hasn’t changed — they both remain ardent climbers. “It’s a good thing my wife and I are both avid mountaineers. If only one of us wanted to go, there would always be an easy excuse to not do it,” Eduardo confides.

After two hours on the pathway, we notice the terrain change from moonscape to verdant jungle. The lay of the land, too, grows noticeably steeper as we begin the 1.5km ascent up the cone. As the pathway narrows, it becomes more scenic. Trees spread their foliage above us, offering welcome shade from the mid-day heat; below us, a gurgling stream shows the way up. By this time, little Wyatt has been alternating walking with riding on his father’s back. We stop for a breather, but not for long because the boy is raring to go — he is blissfully eating up the trail.

It is truly amusing to see Wyatt with his little feet tramping on the sand and rocks. Occasionally he stumbles, but he easily picks himself up and continues onward. For a toddler, this climb is by no means easy, yet the boy is clearly at ease in these mountainous environs. He smiles at the sight of trees and squeals with delight when stream water rushes around his feet.

Occasionally, he picks up a flower and stares at it with fascination before pushing forward.

Two hours later, we arrive at the summit. Admittedly, this is twice as long as regular climbers usually take.

But hey, the mere fact that this toddler made it all the way here is amazing.

I watch the family take a victory selfie on their GoPro. Below us, the blue-green waters of the crater lake shimmer, ringed by craggy cliffs. We rest our tired legs and chow down on our packed lunches.

“You’d be surprised at the kind of messages we get on our blog,” Sharlene shares as we settle down at a vantage

do it on your own), while 4x4 vehicles can be rented for PHP3,000 to 4,000 per day.

A more convenient option is to pre-book the trek through a local outfit like Anawangin Tours and Accommodation (+63 919 934 9474; allan.i.bognot@gmail. com), which can arrange the necessary transportation and logistics for individual or group treks to the summit.

point overlooking the gorgeous view.

“Most people are very encouraging and say Wyatt is an inspiration to other kids. But we get a few negative messages too.”

“Some people feel he is too young to be exposed to the elements, and that he’ll forget about his adventures anyway when he grows up,” Eduardo chimes in. “But all this exercise has been good for his health. He never September 2016 Smile 57

Hiking with the family

gets sick!” In fact, when the family has stayed indoors for too long, Wyatt tends to ask to play with their camping equipment, his parents reveal. “Just like us, he gets bored at home,” Sharlene jokes. “But seriously, mountaineering helped us wean him off electronic gadgets. I’m sure all parents can appreciate that.” Another thing most parents can probably identify with is the fact that the great outdoors doesn’t magically neutralize the occasional tantrum. “Kids will be kids, and sometimes you just have no choice but to ride out their mood swings,” says Sharlene.

BACK TO BASE CAMP With our batteries recharged, we decide to head back. “Here it comes — Wyatt loves the downward trek,” Sharlene says. The boy is visibly elated as he runs down the trail. His parents try to keep up with him, ready to catch their child if he loses his balance among the rocks. We bounce down the pathway, past groups of other hikers 58 Smile September 2016

trudging up the mountain. “That’s some kid you’ve got there — he’s stronger than us!” exclaims an amused pair of winded, middle-aged hikers.

Halfway down, however, the toddler gets tired and is soon asleep in his dad’s arms. We pause for a bit to let Wyatt rest, then continue pushing onward with Eduardo carrying his 23kg son. Another hour passes before we make it back to the jeep. During the ride to base camp, the wind suddenly starts to howl and a raging storm blows in from nowhere. We are taken completely by surprise. Visibility turns to zero and we get drenched in an instant.

Our 4x4 driver tries to maintain a steady pace, navigating the vehicle over the rugged terrain as we get sprayed with sand and water. I glimpse a shivering Wyatt wrapped in his mother’s arms, looking both excited and distressed. Eduardo tries to distract the boy with a song. At this point, I begin to worry that our budding explorer is getting too much exposure

to the great outdoors. Climbing a mountain is difficult enough, but to do that under sweltering heat and then face down a storm is a challenge even for adults — let alone a four-year-old.

All doubts evaporate when I turn to see the Bedurals happily soaking up the elements. Wyatt shrieks gleefully as the rain pours down on us, and his parents start giggling at the sight of their child having the time of his life.

As a father myself, I know exactly how they feel. When we finally reach the base camp, Wyatt hugs his parents tightly, bliss written all over his face.

He hasn’t said much all day, but now he speaks: “I love you! I’m happy!”

Cebu Pacific Air flies to Manila and Clark from across the network.

Cebupacificair.com

Turtle-tagging in Tubbataha

Green sea turtles are listed as an endangered species, and their numbers in Tubbataha are dwindling

D E F E N D I N G In one of the Philippines’ last wild frontiers, a dedicated team of rangers, scientists and conservationists embark on regular missions to protect Tubbataha’s most vulnerable marine species. Tommy Schultz hops aboard one of their expeditions PHOTOGRAPHY BY TOMMY SCHULTZ

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Rangers and scientists aboard the M/Y Navorca release a tagged turtle back into the sea

P A R A D I S E

A

ngelique Songco feels a special affinity for Tubbataha. Her husband, Norman, first sailed to this spot in 1978. That was not even 40 years ago, but the story of that fateful trip already has the feel of a primordial tale, passed down from a time when these remote, sapphire-coloured waters teemed with life that was almost untouched by human interference.

Norman had been tipped off by a fisherman from Quito, a village in Palawan, about this site, which was 10 hours by pump boat from Puerto Princesa — the nearest landmass.

The cost of the fuel required for the trip amounts to several thousand dollars in today’s money, and Norman's

expedition party of divers and spearfishermen had pooled their money to buy the fuel. Their expectations were modest — they all brought their spear guns along, hoping to catch enough fish to offset the cost of the trip. “They lost every single one of those spears,” Angelique remembers.

“Some were bent at a 90-degree angle because the fish were so big.”

From that original fraternity of hardcore divers, word of Tubbataha spread among the world’s diving elite. In 1988, this 97,000ha swathe of the Sulu Sea was established as the Philippines’ first National Marine Park by then-president Corazon Aquino. By 1992, it had become a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Today, it is known as one of the most September August 2016 Smile 61

Turtle-tagging in Tubbataha

legendary dive destinations on the planet.

Angelique herself first visited Tubbataha in 1982. “We went during the summer, in April or May because the seas are too rough during the rest of the year,” she recalls. The trip marked the beginning of her decades-long love affair with these waters. In 2001, she became the manager of the Tubbataha Management Office (TMO), which executes the policies of the Tubbataha Management Board, a multi-sectoral body comprised of government and nongovernment agencies that oversees the protection of these waters. As a long-serving defender of Tubbataha’s marine life, she’s now known affectionately as Mama Ranger.

Tubbataha still teems with life — about 600 species of fish live in this Coral Triangle, including tuna, trevally, jacks, rainbow runners, huge groupers and rare species like Napoleon wrasse and bumphead parrotfish. There are also 360 species of coral, 11 species of sharks, 13 species of dolphins and whales, and over a hundred species of birds.

But with increased awareness of Tubbataha’s breathtaking biodiversity, and as coastal areas within easy reach of nearby cities became more and more depleted, poachers

and other illegal fishermen have begun to venture into these protected waters, intent on raiding its treasure trove of marine life.

TURTLE RODEO Tubbataha’s green sea turtle population is a case in point.

They still nest in the area, but over the years, relentless poaching has resulted in a diminished population. My Tubbataha tale begins with these turtles. Mama Ranger herself had invited me to join a team of park rangers, marine biologists, and volunteers on their June expedition trip, and I jumped at the chance, flippers on.

That’s how I found myself aboard the M/Y Navorca research vessel. While the fancy live-aboard dive boats may offer more amenities, the Navorca has its own charms.

There is a sunny galley area for the crew to hang out in, rows of comfortable bunks and a buzz of camaraderie that comes from a shared belief in a common purpose. During this week onboard the Navorca, the specific mission is to tag Tubbataha’s green sea turtles, which have become increasingly hard to find and are only partly understood.

Want to help save our seas?

Check out how you can do your part at waytogo. cebupacificair.com

Green sea turtles can weigh up to 100kg

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The waters of Tubbataha, which are home to an amazing variety of marine life, are protected by Republic Act 10067 under Philippine law

The expedition team has dubbed this mission the turtle rodeo. I grew up in rural Virginia, where the rodeo is Christmas. My memories of it involve galloping broncos, bucking steers, and the near-constant possibility of permanent injury. I thought I knew what to expect, but in this aquatic version of the old Western sport, the spurs and steers are replaced with expert boat maneuvering, bare hands, and green sea turtles that weigh up to 100kg.

The turtle rodeo begins with one of Tubbataha’s sharpeyed park rangers scanning the shallow sandbar flats of the Bird Islet for the shadow of a cruising sea turtle. The boat driver coordinates with the ranger via a series of rapidfire hand signals and shouts. As the boat approaches, the turtles are invariably spooked and flee for the safety of deep water. Propelled by their powerful flippers, they look like underwater birds in flight.

We’re already traveling over 20-30km per hour, and as the boat draws within striking distance, the ranger catapults himself from the prow of the speeding boat, diving towards the sea floor to grab hold of the turtle and bring it to the surface. As you can imagine, the turtles have other plans.

They forcibly slap the water (and the rangers) with their powerful and surprisingly sharp front flippers. After just an hour, everyone’s hands are bleeding with multiple cuts and abrasions.

Once captured, the turtles are handed over to the waiting team of marine biologists, who measure their dimensions,

identify their gender, and fit each one with a tiny metal tag bearing a tracking number. The turtles are then released back into the water through the rear deck.

Marine biologist Nicolas Pilcher heads the science team. Originally from the United Kingdom and currently based in Kota Kinabalu, Dr. Nick, as everyone calls him, is a passionate sea turtle conservationist with a kind of enchanting professorial demeanor (at least until he cues up an endearingly extensive playlist of American music on his iPhone). He’s been on several turtle-tagging trips in this region over the past few years. On this trip, he’s pleasantly surprised to find turtles with tags from previous expeditions, noting the changes in their size and location in a growing database of important sea turtle information.

By the week’s end, 200 sea turtles are tagged with traditional numbered metal tags. Two mature males

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Turtle-tagging in Tubbataha

weighing over 100kg are fitted with satellite trackers — these small transmission antennae, batteries and sensors are attached to their weather-beaten shell using marine grade epoxy. The satellite tags are designed to activate only when the turtles are raised completely out of the water, and once activated, they will enable marine scientists to gain incredible new insights about the nesting and migratory patterns of these two turtles for as long as the batteries last (which is usually about a year). “This may be the first time mature male sea turtles have been tagged by satellite,”

Divers bring the turtles back to the research vessel for documentation and tagging

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Turtle-tagging in Tubbataha

Dr. Nick fits a turtle with a tracker that transmits location data to a satellite, giving scientists new insights into where these animals migrate and nest

says Dr. Nick, as he triple-checks that the tags are properly attached and functioning as they should.

We are not the only ones searching for sea turtles in Tubbataha. Before the first day of tagging is completed, we discover a medium-sized turtle with a crescent-shaped arc of teeth marks across its shell — the work of a tiger shark.

This turtle has gashes on both flippers still tinged red with blood, but it has survived the attack.

Just as terrestrial wilderness areas like Yellowstone Park have predators like grizzly bears and wolves, the aquatic world of Tubbataha is prowled by sleek tiger sharks who occupy the apex of the food chain. The sea turtles are their natural prey. So the presence of these sharks is not cause for alarm (although the turtles will probably disagree).

Rather, this is a sign of a healthy ecosystem, which is due in no small measure to the work of Angelique and the park rangers.

BAND OF BROTHERS The team of marine park rangers who protect Tubbataha forms the last line of defense against the illegal fishing boats that come here from as far away as China. The rangers live in an 8m-high domed station that is the only inhabited structure for hundreds of miles, and which

more resembles a futuristic space station than Palawan’s traditional nipa palm and bamboo huts. The walls are lined with wooden bunks where the rangers live for their entire eight-week rotation. A typical team consists of eight rangers, but during the high season from March to June, that number is increased to 11.

Before Navorca returns to Puerto Princesa, I decide to spend the last night of the expedition at this station with the rangers, so I can attempt to take photos of the night sky far removed from the lights of civilization. Using the astronomy app on my phone, I check to see what time the Milky Way will be perfectly positioned overhead — 3.40am.

It’s going to be a real struggle getting up.

Before I’ve even dropped my camera bag on the spare bunk, Segundo Conales, one of the longest-serving rangers, asks me to join them for a snack of fish caught just hours ago from the surrounding reef. Only the rangers are allowed to fish here, to supplement their basic ration of rice.

The mood of the group is upbeat, a band of brothers. But their smiles belie the challenges they face during eight September August 2016 Smile 67

Turtle-tagging in Tubbataha

3.40am, the Milky Way over Tubbataha.

Without light pollution, it’s a scene straight out of Star Wars

weeks of zero contact with their friends and family in the outside world. “The hardest part is being here in the offseason, when we are often stuck inside the station during the bad weather. What if you made a mistake in calculating how much coffee you need? You can’t get more,” says Angelique. “They are surrounded by water, but it’s not like they can take a bath whenever they want. We agreed to use only one gallon per day for bathing. Little things like this can become major challenges.”

But even with all the challenges facing the future of the park, she remains upbeat. “I think the ecological value of Tubbataha is actually more important than the aesthetic value. We know that it contributes to food security, it’s not just beautiful. We are believed to have more sharks per square kilometer than anywhere else on earth. Many other species use Tubbataha for raising their young, which grow up to live in other parts of the country.”

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I think of the green sea turtles — threatened as a species, they now have a fighting chance of surviving, thanks to the help of the rangers and marine biologists. I’m grateful to have experienced one of the world’s last truly wild places, with the people who care the most about protecting it. Without their tireless efforts, the majesty of this underwater kingdom would have been lost long ago.

Cebu Pacific flies to Puerto Princesa from Manila, Iloilo and Cebu. Cebupacificair.com

ROLLING IN THE DEEP

Spelunking in Samar

As Samar primes itself as the caving capital of the Philippines, Edgar Alan Zeta-Yap explores the wondrous alien landscapes that lie beneath PHOTOGRAPHY BY EDGAR ALAN ZETA-YAP

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Giant stalactites in Langun Cave

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t was my Indiana Jones moment. I had been hiking through a rain-soaked jungle for three hours, and had ďŹ nally arrived at the edge of a sinkhole. I looked down into the dark opening and felt like I was staring into an abyss. My heart was pounding but I summoned my inner swashbuckling explorer, and steeled my nerves. After all, this was the only way to get inside Central Cave. I roped up, jumped into the passageway, and started rappeling down to a depth of about six storeys.

This 400m-wide cavern beneath the upland forests of Catbalogan City was discovered by local bird’s nest gatherers and surveyed by master caver Joni Bonifacio and his team only two years ago. Central Cave is also known as September 2016 Smile 71

Spelunking in Samar

Crystal Paradise, and once I reached the floor, I understood why. I found myself amid sparkling columns that rose three stories high. There were rows and rows of stalactites, and layered flowstones — nicknamed cave bacon — hung from the walls. It seemed like an alien landscape straight out of a sci-fi novel. This was exactly what I came for.

WET AND WILD Samar Island in eastern Visayas is the third-largest island in the Philippine archipelago, and frequently pelted by typhoons and rainstorms. The slow percolation of these lashings of water through soil and rock has endowed this forested limestone landmass with thousands of caves, including the country’s biggest (Langun-Gobingob in Calbiga) and deepest (Robin’s Cave in Las Navas, Northern Samar).

The island certainly lives up to its reputation as the Caving Capital of the Philippines. “I’ve visited around a hundred caves here, but there are thousands left to explore,” said Joni, the region’s go-to caving guide who led my group through our Samar exploration. He has spent more than two decades exploring caves, and organizes caving tours and other adventures around Eastern Visayas through Trexplore, his outdoor shop located in downtown Catbalogan.

Before taking us to Central Cave, Joni had first introduced our group to the island’s subterranean wonders at Lobo Cave, a network of tunnels running beneath the hinterlands of Jiabong (pronounced “ya-bong”), a municipality that is an hour’s drive from Catbalogan. Lobo boasts underground rivers and waterfalls, and can only be explored by swimming between narrow canyons and squeezing through tight potholes.

While its crystal formations are not as grand as Central’s, they are varied and 72 Smile September 2016

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pristine. “It is the most beautiful cave in the Philippines,” declared Joni.

Exploring Lobo and Central Caves prepared us for the big one — on our third day, we went on an overnight traverse of Langun-Gobingob Caves in Calbiga, 20km south of Catbalogan.

After an hour-long hike through the rainforest, we saw Gobingob’s gaping mouth, lined with rows of stalactites.

First surveyed by Italian speleologists in 1987, this is the largest cave system in the Philippines, with more than a dozen interconnected caverns that span 2,968ha, including an underwater section called Lurodpon Cave that was discovered in 2009.

Entering Gobingob, we clambered over fallen stalagmites and broken boulders. Joni explained the sorry state of these first chambers — in the early 1990s, the cave was illegally mined

Getting there Trexplore (Abesamis Store, Allen Ave, Catbalogan City, +63 55 251 2301 or +63 919 294 3865; trexplore. weebly.com) offers outdoor activities around Eastern Visayas. Guided caving tours start at PHP3,000 per person, inclusive of caving equipment, permits, transportation, porters’ fees and meals. Catbalogan is an hour’s drive away from Calbayog, Samar, and two to three hours from Tacloban in Leyte.

Gear up • Wear a caving or climbing helmet with a non-elastic chin strap to protect your 2

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1 The mouth of Gobingob Cave

Central Cave cave floor

2 Rappeling into

3 A blind mud crab scuttling across a

4 A safety briefing with our guides

Serious about spelunking?

Find other cave treks at waytogo.cebupacificair. com

head from low ceilings and falling rocks.

• Secure a headlamp on your helmet with a rubber strap for hands-free lighting.

• Wear a lightweight and quick-drying shirt and hiking pants.

• Wear gloves to protect your hands when rappeling or climbing over sharp rocks.

• Put on a pair of heavyduty outdoor shoes, such as waterproof hiking boots with lug soles and superior ankle support.

• Carry your camera, food and a change of clothes in a dry bag, preferably one with a sling or shoulder straps to keep both your hands free.

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Spelunking in Samar

Safety first • Always leave word of your caving itinerary and expected time of return.

• Never go caving by yourself.

Choose a guide who can show you established trails.

• Stay close to your group • Avoid touching active cave formations, wildlife and archaeological artifacts.

• Never leave trash behind.

• Always bring spare batteries and at least two backup light sources (a flashlight and light sticks) for emergencies.

• If you get lost, stay calm, Camping in Gobingob Cave

for its limestone formations, which were almost completely demolished, with truckloads of limestone hauled away and sold on the black market.

Fortunately, this incredible karst landscape is now a protected area, as it has become a part of the 455,700ha Samar Island Natural Park.

Pristine formations await in Upper Gobingob, but getting there isn’t easy.

As we surmounted tall rockpiles, one of our groupmates exclaimed: “We’re mountain-climbing under a mountain!” The humidity made sweat stream down our faces as we negotiated sections on all fours. We realized how impressive the scale of the chambers were when we noticed that the beams from our headlamps didn’t even reach the ceiling. The deeper regions of the cave were large enough to house snow-white stalagmites and flowstones three to four storeys tall.

Most of the strange critters that dwell among these cave formations have evolved to survive in complete darkness. I tried to get a closer look at some of these intriguing species in the vast chamber where we camped for 74 Smile September 2016

the night. Camel crickets probed the dirt floor with their long and sensitive antennae, while scary-looking (but actually harmless) whip spiders with mantis-like claws stalked the walls.

There were rare animals only found in these caves — the blind crabs known as Sundathelphusa waray skittered across shallow pools and mudholes, while Caecogobius cryptophthalmus, the ghostly eyeless goby that is the Philippines’ first known blind cavefish, haunted murky pools and streams.

Perhaps this was my Hobbit moment.

The next morning, we soldiered on, crossing over into Langun Cave via a slippery cliff that could only be safely descended by rappeling.

After traversing even more boulders and a hallway of huge stalactites, we emerged into an enormous chamber the size of three football fields.

Encouraged by the sunlight beaming through an overhead opening, our team trudged through ankle-deep bat guano as we headed for the exit. I felt triumphant when I finally reached the bottom of the rockslide at Langun’s mouth, which led us to the thick jungle outside. Drenched and exhausted,

conserve your light and wait for help to arrive.

Head outdoors Join the following outdoor clubs on Facebook: • Gaia Exploration Club • Cebu Spelunking Society • Speleo Davao For a complete list of local caving groups, contact Philippine Speleological Society at +63 932 820 1198.

we followed an uphill trail for three grueling hours before we made it back to civilization — utterly drained, but brimming with admiration for the wondrous worlds beneath our feet.

Cebu Pacific flies to Tacloban from Manila and Cebu, and will commence flights to Calbayog from Cebu in November 19, 2016. Cebupacificair.com

Big bites

THRILL OF THE GRILL

Chef JP Anglo delivers a big serving of inspiration with these Pinoy grilled dishes that are perfect for whipping up on the road

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here’s something different about cooking in the great outdoors.

As chef JP Anglo puts it: “It’s more natural, and I feel more liberated. I just follow my instincts.” It’s an approach that suits his rough-and-ready vibe, not to mention the typical kitchen conditions on the road. “In coastal towns, they don’t have much. But there’s always fresh ingredients, wood and charcoal. The best part is how food actually tastes better when it’s grilled. There’s always that hint of smoke.”

He’s always been a champion of Filipino and Asian flavors.

SARSÁ Kitchen+Bar, which he launched in 2013, serves Filipino and Negrense dishes prepared with a contemporary touch, and he also has two Asian-themed restaurants, Mai Pao and Mu Shu, in his

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hometown of Bacolod.

“I always try to cook with local ingredients, if not Asian ones,” says the one-time judge of TV cooking contest MasterChef Pinoy Edition.

“When you’re on the road, you cook

with what’s on hand. Once, when I was surfing in Surigao, I used the local tuba (palm wine) instead of vinegar to prepare adobo. There wasn’t any sugar or soy sauce, so I used coconut sap that was reduced to a dark caramel, and some Red Horse Beer. I let the ingredients marinate while I surfed for about seven hours, then cooked everything over a wood fire. We served it with soft-boiled eggs steeped in the adobo sauce, lots of white rice, and even more Red Horse. It was amazing.”

Lately, his appetite for adventure has led him all over the country, as he explores thrilling surf spots and the Philippines’ fascinating island food culture for his show Hungry with Chef JP. Here, he serves up some sumptuous spreads that will have you yearning to turn grillmaster in no time.

GROOMING BY RENEN BAUTISTA

TEXT AND FOOD STYLING BY TATA MAPA PHOTOGRAPHY BY JAR CONCENGCO

B EEFED

B - UP

EEF

RIBS

Hankering for beef? Try this twist on prepping short ribs: JP marinates them in batchoy stock (a soup made with pork organs, chicken stock and beef loin) before finishing off the ribs on the grill. “This way, you get the rich batchoy flavors along with the aroma from the grill and a nice crust,” he says. He serves up some batchoy gravy on the side, and suggests the stellar pairing of the ribs with cold beer and copious amounts of steamed white rice. This has been such a hit at his catering gigs that he’s considering making it a regular item on SARSÁ’s menu.

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Big bites

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In an archipelago like the Philippines, you may well score the fresh catch of the day if you head out for your early-morning swim just as local fishermen return to shore. For this spread, JP stuffs the cavity of the lapu-lapu (grouper) with ginger, onion and lemongrass, then covers the entire fish with more of the same before wrapping it in banana leaves for grilling. For an added dash of flavor, the typical Filipino dipping sauce of vinegar, soy sauce, chilli, red onions and calamansi gets a boost from a sprinkling of coriander.

We’ve got more ideas for your kitchen adventures!

Check out our video guides at waytogo.cebupacificair.com

78 Smile September 2016

IT H A WS S BA T K ALA ABLE CR

Grilled veggies like kalabasa (a type of squash) make for scrumptious additions to meals on the road. This dish combines flavor, texture and presentation. JP cooks half of the squash in coconut milk, and tops it off with slices of grilled squash. This dish is a favorite among SARSÁ’s regular diners, and JP suggests sprinkling crispy crablets on it if you prepare it while you’re on the road.

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Big bites

IS A AN IS T G G LO N H A T W WI T

Longganisa, a pork sausage flavored with garlic and spices, is a go-to ingredient for all-day breakfasts. JP’s take on this humble dish takes it up a few notches — he marinates the longganisa in adobo sauce, then grills it instead of using the standard pan-frying method. The result? An added smoky flavor and a deliciously crispy coating.

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O RE E MG D A N L M S TI INASA TERE IN Inasal is a flavorful barbeque dish that traces its roots to the province of Negros Occidental, where JP is originally from. Here we have liempo-cue, isaw, chicken skin (pecho, or breast, and paa, or thigh), isol with atchara, vegetables and avocado pinakurat (spicy vinegar from the Visayas) on the side. (These are all served in SARSà as individual dishes.) To get inasal’s trademark tangy flavor and orange hue, JP recommends soaking the meat in coconut vinegar, leaving it for four to six hours while you enjoy the beach, then basting with atsuete oil when you start grilling.

Cebu Pacific flies to Manila from across the network. cebupacificair.com

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Surfing Siargao

ZEN AND

THE ART OF SURFING We asked two of our regular contributors, Mike and Louie-An, to try riding the waves for the very first time. Here’s how they went from wiped out to blissed out

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Surfing Siargao

Mike (in white rash guard) and fellow first-timers get a lesson on how to pop up on a surfboard

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MIKE AQUINO Writer, traveler, 100% landlubber

but you’re dealing with an element that is huge and powerful,” Elaine tells us before we hit the beach. “It can be forgiving one day, next it can be slapping you in the face!”

At 7am, we hit the beach directly across Tourism Road from Turtle Surf Camp. We’re each assigned a personal instructor, hired from among Elaine’s local contacts in the Matanjak Surf School. My instructor, Piro, is a wiry, tanned guy with bleached hair and a never-ceasing smile.

Using a board resting on the sand, Piro drills me on the proper technique for the “pop-up” — the energetic pushup that should (theoretically) bring me from a supine position to a standing position. I practice my pop-up again and again, pushing up with my arms while rapidly bringing my feet into position on the board. Piro tuts his disapproval.

“You’re using your knees!” he scolds.

I can’t help it; my arms don’t feel strong enough to make that solid push upward without a kneeling assist. “You

PHOTOS BY BEN PLUMMER, ELAINE ABONAL

“All it takes is one surf trip to change your life.”

That’s an incredibly ambitious statement, but Surfista Travels head trainer Elaine Abonal says it so sincerely as to leave no doubt of its

truth. I am feeling a massive amount of doubt in myself, though. Siargao island’s pounding surf feels a world away from where I currently sit — in the dry, cushioned comfort of Turtle Surf Camp’s common area, alongside fellow Surfista campers Louie-An, Gil, Natasha and Nicole.

Louie-An and I are the only two absolute noobs in the bunch. Gil, Natasha and Nicole are no strangers to the surfboard, and all three have crossed international borders to attend Surfista Travels’ camp — Gil from the UK, and Natasha and Nicole from Singapore.

Speaking solely for myself, I am 100% landlubber. My knowledge of the sea ends where I can no longer stand with my neck above water. What do I know about riding a wave on a surfboard in the open ocean? I’m about to find out. Surfista Travels, and the multiple surf breaks down Siargao’s east coast, are here to see to that.

Lesson one: the sea is not your friend. “The ocean is your playground,

Surf students and instructors test the waves

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Surfing Siargao

Mike gets tips from instructor Piro; another Surfista tests the waters

PHOTOS BY BEN PLUMMER, ELAINE ABONAL

d” ur feet. Trust the boar yo t us Tr . dy bo ur yo “Trust won’t be stable enough to get upright; you’ll wipe out on your first try,” Piro warns me.

I find out exactly what he means when we finally get into the water.

A short boat ride takes us from the beach to Matanjak surf break; the whole gang drops their boards into the sea and jumps in after them. It’s just a 10-minute paddle from the boat to Matanjak, but my lack of training betrays me. Elaine’s words ring in my head: “90% of surfing is paddling.” By the time I’m in position, my arms and dorsal muscles are throbbing, and I’m completely winded.

Surfing requires considerable upper body strength and stamina. This is not something you want to learn when you’re right in the path of the breaks, not to mention the other surfers riding them. Worse, my 90kg mass is simply too top-heavy for our slim 9ft longboard. Never mind standing; just staying on top of the board, lying bellydown, proves almost impossible.

Elaine salvages the situation by telling me to forget about the pop-up for today. I am going to bodyboard instead. Piro guides me (still bellydown on the board) to a rising wave, then lets go. A powerful wave takes hold and I accelerate towards the shore.

“Surfing on your belly, that’s still surfing,” Elaine quips later. At our post-surf debriefing back in the resort, she tells us that newbies often torture themselves for doing what comes naturally, which is to wipe out at every attempt. “Surfing is a lot of things going on at the same time,” she explains. “If people are used to sitting in an office the whole day, everything is overwhelming — the heat, the movement of the boat, the reef. There are already so many things to take in even before you have to stand up.”

Newbies like Louie-An and myself, she suggests, should take it one step at a time. “It’s your first time, just get used to everything before worrying about the technical stuff of standing up,” she cajoles us. “And have fun — don’t be too hard on yourself!”

Fun is a little slow in coming, but we get there. Over the next few days, we switch to a much larger paddleboard that probably served as a Siargao-tomainland ferry in a previous life. Piro watches from a distance as I stand, wipe out, stand again, then wipe out again. The waves aren’t as powerful in June as they are during peak season between August to November, which is perfect for beginners but not as fun for experienced surfers. We’re enjoying it in any case; the moderate weather has

tamed even the ferocious Tuason Point surf break.

“You’re doing it!” Piro yells as we near the end of our session on the third day. “You just need to align your feet with the center line, and stop walking forward!” He sounds even more excited than I am. With a more stable and forgiving board, I’ve gained a little more confidence and am beginning to shed the habit of intellectualizing my actions, learning to go with the flow instead.

Trust your body. Trust your feet.

Trust the board. Free of analysis paralysis, I am making the transition to surfing upright, for about seven to eight seconds per go anyway. I am not going to get as good as Gil, the Singaporeans, Piro, or Elaine in three days, but I am happy to take what I can get — a Zen-like appreciation of surfing as a mind game that I beat little by little, day by day, bruised ribcage, scratchedup shins and an overall body soreness notwithstanding.

“For some people, surfing is meditation. Because you have to focus so much on one thing, you can’t be thinking about so many other things,” Elaine tells us on our last day. “If you keep over-thinking, you’re not enjoying the process. But if you let go and stand up — go.”

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Surfing Siargao

Louie-An tests her stance before hitting the water

LOUIE-AN PILAPIL

PHOTO BY ELAINE ABONAL

Writer and yoga teacher My fascination with the ocean is equal only to my fear of it. I grew up in landlocked Concepcion town in Tarlac province, at a time when there were no public pools and no swimming lessons to be had. I also realize, rather belatedly as I write this piece, that my family never went to the beach.

Although Zambales and La Union are relatively nearby, our family gatherings always took place at my grandparents’ home, never out in the sun or frolicking in the waves.

Then, when I finally started going on beach trips, I learned I had an allergic reaction to sea water that made me break out in hives. It’s a shame really, because the Philippines has some of the world’s most enviable beaches.

Although I did take swimming lessons eventually, I have yet to conquer my fear of the deep end.

My exposure to yoga, however, has allowed me to meet people with different passions, including surfers, who often practice yoga to re-create “the flow” on the mat while honing their surfing skills. What all of them have in common, apart from their

face n I say I came face to he w g tin ra ge ag ex t “I’m no trip” with my fears on this killer physiques, is a palpable, almost fanatical, devotion to surfing. They seek a kind of peace that seems somehow absent on land. Despite my complete inexperience in anything that involves water, I grew intrigued with the sport that had them so enthralled.

Then came this assignment. I jumped at the chance to experience the world-famous surf spot Siargao, saltwater allergy be damned. Fellow writer Mike Aquino and I made our way to the island and were met by a smiling and hugging Elaine, whose energy says a lot about her — how much she loves being with people, and how passionate she is about surfing. I have come to think that those with an affinity for the ocean exude an energy

of levity, authenticity, generosity and openness. Meeting Elaine was a great starting point for this adventure, and I felt relaxed.

I love that Siargao has a smalltown vibe despite being a top tourist destination. Residents bristle at the thought of it becoming the next Boracay, and are fully aware of what rapid commercialization can do to its tranquil, laid-back atmosphere. As a vegan, I was also delighted to find that there were better food options here than other tourist places I’ve been to in the Philippines. More things to love: Turtle Surf Camp Siargao, where we start our lessons, has a simple and charming tropical aesthetic that will make anyone — surfer or non-surfer — want to move in, permanently.

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Surfing Siargao

A busy morning along a crowded lineup; (below) Elaine Abonal of Surfista Travels

READY TO SURF

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Find out where to fuel up on food after a surf session in Siargao at waytogo. cebupacificair.com

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spotted with bruises and my pride shredded, he takes me back to the resort where I lick my wounds.

How many times do you need to fall before you get up? That depends on how fast you learn your lesson.

The next day, Dom and I set out again and he tells me excitedly: “Today is your day to shine.” I chuckle at this declaration, not only because this tattooed, muscle-bound guy just talked like a shampoo endorser, but also because I believe it.

Miraculously, my skin does not break out. No antihistamines needed. I think to myself: the universe is giving me the encouragement I crave.

When you manage to stand up on a moving board that’s being swayed by choppy waves, even for just a few seconds, you get hooked. You’re a goner, like a teenager kissed by a long-time crush. You want it again. So you go back, stand up, and get wiped out. You try again. This goes on until your body gives up on you. You notice that your legs and feet are riddled with bruises, but you don’t care. Later on, you realize your arms feel more like limp noodles than arms. But yes, you will do it again. Because now that I’m braver, how can I stop?

OME

NDS?

Courses at Surfista Travels run for six days, and the package includes individual instruction and accommodation. Slots are limited, so don't overthink it - just make the leap. Your body and soul will thank you for it. Surfistatravels.com; +63 917 585 0538

Cebu Pacific flies to Siargao from Cebu. Cebupacificair.com

PHOTOS BY BEN PLUMMER

After settling in, the interesting part begins. It’s time for those surf lessons.

The first session is where I learn the most, and achieve the least. I’m not exaggerating when I say I came face to face with my fears on this trip. I am cradled and then slapped around by waves, sometimes at the same time, an overwhelming sensation.

Lying belly down on a surfboard with fathoms of water below is more than my inexperienced land-based body and brain can handle. I am lucky enough to be paired with Dom, my patient, sassy and funny instructor.

He is shocked that I jumped in the water at all after I tell him about my water dilemmas, and goes into full therapist mode when he sees how dejected I am at being a sucky firsttimer. He assures me that tomorrow will be different.

With my feet, knees and body

RGAO?

AKE AW ES

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GAME OF STONES South-East Asia was once the setting of a thousand epics — a region where powerful empires battled one another for dominion over vast lands. What remains of these ancient civilizations? To piece together these glorious histories, Lester Ledesma spent 13 years and multiple journeys seeking out the enduring stone monuments of these fallen kingdoms

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Brand seriensew Join in tre

pid tra they fo velers llo as and sh w their obs ession are th s e ir s to Smile exclus ries in ives

PHOTOGRAPHY BY LESTER LEDESMA

a Muan Thom temple lies in no man’s land, surrounded by jungle, politics and a fair share of landmines. This 900-year-old Khmer structure sits right on the border of Thailand and Cambodia, well away from any city (the nearest one, Thailand’s Khorat, is 180km away), and its location has made it necessary for both countries to install soldiers here.

The forces sit in their own clusters, trying to keep out of each other’s way.

Thai troops gather in the northern half

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of the complex, while the Cambodians occupy the southern half. The mood is relaxed; both sides simply want to stay cool in the sweltering mid-day heat. Not too long ago, these men were shooting at one another.

I look up at Ta Muan Thom, surveying the condition and design of this half-collapsed heap of laterite blocks. The temple’s main buildings are still largely intact. A pair of headless dvarapala warrior statues stand guard in one doorway. A nearby lintel displays remnants of intricate

Rising high above the central Javanese countryside, Prambanan, the ruins of a 9thcentury Hindu temple, bear witness to an era when South-East Asian culture mirrored that of the Indians. Today, the structure remains a focal point for Indonesia's Hindu minority

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stonework, while a damaged apsara (celestial nymph) sculpture is frozen in her eternal dance on another wall.

These ruins, I am told, were looted by the Khmer Rouge when they controlled this area in the 1980s. I thank my Cambodian military escort and he walks me back to his army’s line. On the way, we pass a concrete bunker riddled with bullets. “Pak pak pak!” he says with a smile and points to the Thais behind us. In 2011, these combatants had battled for control of this spot, until both sides agreed to the current truce.

Intriguing as this bit of recent history is, I am interested in another story that goes much further back.

I have just crossed from the land of the Siamese into the domain of the 94 Smile September 2016

Khmers, following an ancient highway that once connected north-east Thailand to the kingdom of Angkor, some 250km to the south. Although little of this road remains, there are structures along the way that attest to its existence. Ta Muan Thom itself is also just one of many Khmer structures that dot the landscape of mainland South-East Asia.

Centuries before the birth of the modern nations that now make up the Association of Southeast Asian Nations (ASEAN), and certainly before any European power arrived in these parts, this swath of the globe bordered

by China to the north, India to the west and the Pacific Ocean to the east was a patchwork of kingdoms that fought and traded with each other.

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These states were no doubt diverse, but they also shared a common cultural influence that defined their era. If today’s world is a Westernized one, the ways back then were those of India — scholars have inferred that merchants, adventurers, teachers and monks sailed from south-east India across the Bay of Bengal, bringing with them the culture that this region came to adopt.

ANGKOR AND CHAMPA: INDOCHINA’S RIVAL KINGDOMS I’m on the last leg of a journey that started 12 years ago, when I took it upon myself to see the ancient kingdoms of South-East Asia.

I still remember that blistering summer day in 2003 when my journey

1 Divine female beings called apsaras perform their eternal dance in stone on the walls of Angkor

roles onstage at a venue in Siem Reap

2 Dancers perform apsara

3 Two Buddhist monks at Bayon, one of Angkor Thom's major temples

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From the mountains of Java to the east, all the way to the plains of My connections to India can anmar in the west, ancie be traced in architecture nt , religion, language an d the arts began. In the Cambodian border town of Poipet, I boarded a bus that took me on a torturous six-hour ride on a dusty, potholed highway towards the town of Siem Reap. I was cash-strapped back then, lodging at $4 per night guesthouses and relying on street stalls for food. But I was determined to see the exquisite ruins of Angkor.

Like any other visitor, I was fascinated by its structures and artifacts. I explored the ancient capital of Angkor Thom, marveling at the Hindu and Buddhist symbols adorning its crumbling walls and hallways.

Hinduism and Buddhism, of course, both originated in India.

At Angkor Wat, I roamed the Hindu cosmic universe, which had been rendered through the architecture of

this grand structure — the outer moat symbolized the edge of the world, a swath of land represented the realm of men, and five central towers alluded to the five peaks of Mount Meru, the abode of the gods.

The imagery I encountered at Angkor is present in one form or another throughout South-East Asia. From the mountains of Java to the east, all the way to the plains of Myanmar in the west, ancient connections to India can be traced in architecture, religion, language and the arts.

Angkor is without doubt the best known of the region’s Indianized kingdoms. Legend has it that in the first century, an Indian Brahman married into a Khmer chieftain’s

family and started the state of Funan.

The Angkor empire is believed to have originated there.

From the 9th to the mid-15th century, Angkor was the dominant force in mainland South-East Asia.

At one time, its influence extended to parts of Vietnam, all of Laos and a large chunk of what is now Thailand.

The history of this empire is captured in many of Angkor’s ruins, most notably at the Bayon temple.

The walls here feature bas reliefs of bullock carts, farmers, fishermen and market vendors, as well as visual accounts of battles and myths.

Blackened in parts, these artworks have otherwise survived the ravages of time remarkably well; even more amazingly, many of these depictions September 2016 Smile 95

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of daily life still exist in the flesh in today's Cambodian countryside.

Also portrayed at Bayon are warriors from Champa, a rival kingdom based in what is now Central Vietnam. Identifiable in the murals by their distinctive headgear, the Chams fought the Khmers in a series of wars that spanned the 11th and 12th centuries.

In 2005, I had visited the remains of their civilization at My Son, some 70km south-west of Danang. Many of the ruins were undergoing restoration at the time, but it was clear that their types and uses were similar to those in Angkor.

Their architectural styles, however, did differ. While Khmer temples were usually constructed with laterite rock, Champa buildings were made of red brick. To me, the latter also appeared to be more massive, with squat foundations and a unique saddleshaped roof design.

My Son served as the religious capital of Champa for over a thousand years. The site suffered much damage from American bombing during the Vietnam War, but many of its artworks survived. The Museum of Cham Sculpture in downtown Danang showcases this kingdom’s versions of the gods and deities that populate Hindu legends. There are also representations of the male and female reproductive organs — the lingam and yoni — which lie at the inner sanctums of every Hindu temple.

THE MARITIME EMPIRES OF SRIVIJAYA AND MAJAPAHIT While the Khmers and the Chams were battling it out in Indochina, 96 Smile September 2016

E X P E D I T I O N S

4

the Srivijaya empire was gaining prominence in the islands to the south. This state had its seat of power in Sumatra, and it used the surrounding seas to spread both the Hindu and Buddhist faiths to neighboring lands. By way of native sailboats called prahu, Srivijayan influence spread east to Java, and up north to the Malay peninsula and parts of what is now southern Thailand.

Its legacy persists today, sometimes in quite subtle ways.

The names of Thailand’s Chaiya district and the Philippines’ Visayas region, for instance, are believed to be corruptions of “Srivijaya”. You can also find Hindu-Buddhist terms in just about every major language in the region. For example, the Tagalog word diwata derives from the Hindu devata, or deity.

The empire’s physical legacy is even more impressive, as one can see from a number of landmarks in

Central Java. In 2008, I travelled to Jogjakarta, a bustling Indonesian city with gritty streets and charming Dutch colonial-era buildings. With the help of an eternally smiling, chain-smoking ojek (motorbike taxi) driver named Dudut, I headed out to the countryside to see the ancient ruins of Srivijaya.

Just outside the city, the sprawling temple complex of Prambanan dominated the horizon, its 47m central tower looming above the otherwise low-rise countryside. Back in the time of the Srivijaya, Prambanan had more than 200 individual structures. Today, a total of 18 temples still stand on these grounds. Seen from afar, its layout — again, an embodiment of the Hindu universe — seemed to be its most striking feature. Up close, however, it was the artwork that captured my imagination. Scenes from the Ramayana and Bhagavata Purana (both Hindu epics) adorned the main temple’s inner balustrades, alongside depictions of the familiar apsaras, devatas and dvarapalas.

North-west of Jogjakarta, another great structure beckoned — Borobudur, the world’s largest Buddhist monument. I paid my visit

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4 The Hindu Balinese are remnants of the once-great Majapahit empire

5 The greatest legacy of the Pagan empire in Myanmar is the widespread adoption of Theravada Buddhism

6 Khmer script, like many writing systems in the region, has its roots in Indian Sanskrit

7

Dvarapala statues guard the doorways of temples all over South-East Asia

5

6

7

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8

stor y th y rich regional hi remnants of a trul , st pa t an st di e hools from th These are ghosts y’s Westernized sc neglected by toda

during Visakha Puja, an important religious holiday that saw monks from all over Asia congregating here to commemorate the birthday of the Buddha. There was an orangerobed contingent from Thailand, and a yellow-clad group of Mahayana devotees from Malaysia, among other places. With flowers in their hands, the monks walked solemnly clockwise around the temple — a homage to their vow to keep the Buddha’s teachings at the center of their lives. This stirring scene of quiet devotion would have been a common sight in the days of the empire. Borobudur was most likely built in the 8th century, when Srivijaya was reaching its peak. The empire didn’t last too long, however, 98 Smile September 2016

because another state rose to challenge its supremacy.

From the 13th century onwards, the Majapahit expanded from East Java to eventually absorb the Srivijaya kingdom and much more.

Traces of this empire can still be found —when today’s Indonesians refer to Nusantara, they are actually drawing from the concept of a unified realm that has its beginnings in the the largest extent of the Majapahit empire during its golden age in the 14th century. Sadly, not much physical evidence of this remains. The most significant Majapahit ruins can be found in East Java — in the ancient capital of Trowulan and in clusters within the Dieng Plateau.

at is

THE WESTERN KINGDOMS OF PAGAN AND SUKHOTHAI To the far west, just across the sea from India, two other kingdoms grew strong enough to ward off the Khmers.

In the fertile lands around the great Irrawaddy River, a Burmese king named Anawrahta set the foundations of what would eventually become the nation of Myanmar.

His Pagan Empire may have lasted only 250 years, but its influence is still palpable. The Pagan adopted Theravada Buddhism from India, a religion that is now the dominant belief system not just in Myanmar, but also in neighboring Thailand, Cambodia and Laos.

I first laid eyes on Bagan, Anawrahta’s capital, in 2008. At that time, Myanmar was still locked in political isolation,

8 The stone sculptures of massive heads at the Bayon temple are said to represent the Buddhist goddess of compassion, Avalokiteshvara

9 Many South-East

Asian dance forms like this Balinese pendet were said to have been inspired by pre-colonial Indian court dances

and its government was wary of tourists even though the country needed them. Thanks to an invitation from Myanmar’s tourism bureau, though, I managed to arrive as a journalist to document this mysterious land.

It was with much curiosity and a tinge of trepidation that I finally set foot there, my official guide no doubt watching me for signs of “subversive activity”.

A political question or a conversation with a local regarding the then-ruling junta, I suspected, would have been enough to earn me a visit from the Burmese cops.

Nonetheless, I was fascinated by the ruins of Bagan, the capital of the Pagan kingdom. From the 9th to the 13th centuries, over 10,000 religious monuments were built here in a city measuring roughly 100sq km. Today, over 3,000 temples are still scattered across these dusty plains in central Burma. From this spot, a succession of kings gradually enlarged their domain, uniting a region that now makes up much of modern Myanmar.

To the immediate east, the ancient capital of Sukhothai tells the story of how a Thai tributary state managed to gain independence from their Khmer overlords. Much like Pagan, this empire was short-lived, lasting merely around 150 years after its birth in 1238. However, its existence marked a revolutionary time for the early Thais, who adapted Indian culture to suit their own. This was when Siamese culture began to come into its own.

Theravada Buddhism became the state religion, and the Thai alphabet was devised from the original Khmer

9

script. Sukhothai was later annexed

by Ayutthaya, a rival kingdom from the south that consolidated its rule into an area that now defines Thailand.

THE WINDS OF CHANGE History has shown that all empires that rise will also fall. In the 1300s, Angkor began to decline for reasons that are still debated. Most scholars believe that a number of factors — a drought, constant warfare with nearby kingdoms, a change from Hinduism to Buddhism which undermined the power of its kings — caused it to succumb to a Thai invasion in 1431.

At around the same time, Champa was annihilated by the Chineseinfluenced Dai Viet. Pagan was devastated by the Mongols in 1287, while to the south, the Majapahit was dismantled by emerging Muslim states. Then came the strangers from the far West — the Europeans,

who would eventually colonize this region and supplant its Indianized cultures with their own.

For the moment though, I am still very much immersed in the 13th century. From Ta Muan Thom, I head south in a rented car, following Route 68 until I find myself somewhere between the towns of Chong Kal and Srei Snam. I drive off the road and onto a dirt path, which leads me to one of the last remnants of the old Khmer highway.

The Spean Top bridge is made of laterite blocks and resembles a Roman viaduct with its long columns and picturesque arches. Nearby are the deserted ruins of Prohm Kel, one of 18 dharamsalas (rest houses) that sheltered travelers on this ancient road. These are ghosts from the distant past, remnants of a truly rich regional history that is neglected by today’s Westernized schools.

I pay my respects to Jayavarman VII, the Khmer king who ordered all this infrastructure to be built. Then I drive south, towards Angkor Wat, where my quest started all those years ago. It is late afternoon when I arrive — just in time to watch dusk fall over its five towers, the peaks of Mount Meru. My journey is complete.

Cebu Pacific flies from Manila and Cebu to 11 destinations across SouthEast Asia. Cebupacificair.com September 2016 Smile 99

journal Guides to Cebu PaciямБc destinations

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September 2016 Smile 101

International

Australia

Brunei Darussalam

SYDNEY

BANDAR SERI BEGAWAN

Bonn Carlo Santiago

Romel Torre

Data analyst

Banker

Sydney Fish Market has the freshest seafood in the city. You’ll find a wide variety — from freshly shucked oysters, gigantic Alaskan king crabs, and salmon sashimi to scallops torched right in front you. Watch out for the seagulls though.

Sample the local delicacies at Tamu Kianggeh. This open-air market along the Brunei River lets you experience the different flavors of the country. Then, take a water taxi for a leisurely ride along Kampong Ayer water village.

Grab a drink at the Bondi Icebergs Club. You can enjoy the view of Bondi beach from the restaurant’s balcony and watch the waves crash against the shore.

Marvel at the Sultan Omar Ali Saifuddin Mosque. This is probably one of the most photographed sites in Brunei. The most recognizable feature of the mosque is its main dome, which is covered in real gold.

One the most common items people bring home from Australia would definitely be Tim Tam chocolate biscuits.

To balance the sweet with the savory, stock up on some bags of Rock Deli’s Sweet Chili & Sour Cream chips.

Brunei has one of the highest vehicle-ownership rates, averaging about one car for every 2.09 people. Don’t expect to see a lot of public transport.

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TOWN TRAIN, BUS, TAXI

BUS, TAXI

International

Cambodia

China

SIEM REAP

BEIJING

Ayanna Tan

Mary de Ocampo

Sales & operations planning specialist

Customer advocate

Genevieve’s Restaurant in Sok San Road offers both traditional Khmer and Western cuisine. This place is usually packed during lunch and dinner, so reserve a table early to make sure you get a table at your preferred time. Dishes cost about USD4-10. Try the fish amok (curry) and beef lok lak (stir-fried beef served with fresh veggies).

To beat the crowds and catch the sunrise, you can start your day at Angkor Archaeological Park from as early as 4am. If you’re pressed for time and can only allocate one day for templehopping, don't miss Angkor Wat, Angkor Thom, Banteay Srei, Bayon, Preah Khan and Ta Prohm. A one-day pass to the complex costs USD25.

Head for Luzhu Lu and Qingfeng Baozi Restaurant for a taste of authentic Beijing food.

Tiananmen Square and the Forbidden City are directly opposite each other, so you can easily visit both sites in one day. Visiting the square is free, but you need to pay CNY15 to head up Tiananmen Tower. Entry charges for the Forbidden City range from CNY40-60, depending on the season.

For CNY60 a night, you can stay in BackHome Beijing Guest House, a traditional courtyard-style residence.

Book your stay via agoda.com.

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International

China

China

China

GUANGZHOU

HONG KONG

MACAU

Dave Xaikia

Marga Alaguia

Darlene Madrid

Photographer

IT project manager

Blogger

Dine at Panxi Restaurant at 151 Longjin West Road. Be sure to make reservations to avoid a long wait. My favorite dishes include a soup served with steamed white gourd, quail eggs with shrimp roe, and chicken with garden herbs.

Stroll the “Scenic Corridor” along the Pearl River. At over 2,400km, this river system is the third longest in China.

If you’re in town during winter, try to have dinner at Yoshinoya. They offer hotpot during the cold months — each person gets an individual pot, which is filled with veggies and beef. Go early in the evening, because they run out fast.

Instead of the MTR, take the ferry from Tsim Sha Tsui to Central. It’s cheaper, and you get to enjoy a view of the harbor.

Stop by the Lord Stow’s Bakery & Café outlet at the Shoppes of The Venetian Macao for a freshly baked batch of caramelised Portuguese egg tarts.

Even if you don’t gamble, visiting the world’s largest casino — The Venetian Macao — is an interesting experience.

Visitors will be surely be impressed with the main lobby and The Grand Colonnade with its vaulted ceiling, fountain, frescoes and all that gold.

Choose Yellow Taxis whenever possible. A trip from the airport to downtown costs only CNY50.

Purchase the MTR Tourist Day Pass at the airport before you travel to the city.

The pass includes one- or two-way travel on the Airport Express (HKD220-300), plus three days of unlimited rides on the MTR. Before your departure, return the card at the airport to get a HKD50 refund.

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106 Smile September 2016

Macau provides free WiFi for tourists in selected areas. To find out where these spots are, pick up the free WiFiGO service locations map at the ferry terminal.

China

China

Indonesia

SHANGHAI

XIAMEN

BALI

Antonette Mendoza

Clifford Alba

Erin Bender

Marketing manager

Spa owner

Travel writer/social media influencer

RedThai at Swiss International hotel is the best Thai restaurant in Xiamen.

A set lunch, complete with dessert and drink, costs CNY58.

Taco Casa in Ubud serves up the best authentic Mexican cuisine I’ve had outside of Mexico. Don’t miss the taco salad bowl and the refreshing mint-lemon iced drink. The burritos are also delicious.

Head for Cha's at 30 Sinan Lu (via Shaanxi Nan Lu metro station). It’s a classic Cantonese diner plucked out of the 1950s that’s quite popular among loawais (foreigners).

Tianzifang is an arts and culture melting pot off Taikang Lu where you can find stores selling art, hand-crafted goods and random cool finds you wouldn’t see in most other places in Shanghai. Twists and turns lead to nice surprises, including hidden cafés and some surprisingly good pizza joints.

Itao Balay Ni Juan spa offers Hilot massages, a traditional Filipino technique. It’s also famous for its Tibetan Dance Massage, a therapeutic technique that heals and relaxes.

Try the Seawalker experience near Grand Mirage Resort in Nusa Dua. Equipped with an astronaut-style helmet and oxygen line, you get to walk on the ocean floor for up to 30 minutes. The regular price is around USD80, but you can often get deals that are up to 50% cheaper by checking with tour organizers at your hotel.

Skip the fake markets. The goods you’ll find there aren’t really that cheap.

The BRT is a bus system that makes use of elevated roadways, and it’s both the fastest and cheapest way to get around the city. Fares are paid using an E-Tong card, and prices range from CNY0.50-3.50.

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Go get a Balinese massage. A fullbody massage costs about USD8 in Kuta and goes up to USD50 at high-end spas.

MAGLEV, TAXI

September 2016 Smile 107

International

Indonesia

Japan

Japan

JAKARTA

FUKUOKA

NAGOYA

Pamy Lazatin

Stephanie Raley

Sarah Gallo

Market research consultant

Blogger

Travel blogger

Anomali Coffee along the Senopati strip is a local café that stands out for its cozy and rustic interiors. Fill up on the Power Breakfast (eggs, corned beef hash, mushrooms and toast) and wash it all down with their signature coffee for about IDR100,000.

For groceries, go to Kem Chicks at the Pacific Place mall. You can also get kueh lapis here from Scroll, which has refashioned this traditional cake into a square log, a shape that showcases the cake's many layers when sliced.

Gyoza numbers among Fukuoka’s specialties. You can eat these dumplings deep fried, pan fried or boiled. I personally prefer them pan fried and accompanied with a glass of beer.

Check out the sprawling Ohori Park. It has a lake at its center, and it’s a good place to catch a glimpse of locals going about their everyday lives.

When shopping in Japan, you don’t have to worry about getting ripped off and you don’t need to haggle.

The Java Jazz Festival (javajazzfestival.com) in March is a good reason to visit.

Try tenmusu — flavorful rice balls filled with shrimp tempura and wrapped in seaweed. One of the best places to buy these in Nagoya is Jiraiya, which caters to those looking for take-out. Prices start from around USD1.50 per piece.

I found Guesthouse Mado a cozy spot that provided an interesting cultural experience. The owners are a joy to be around and the rooms, at USD35 per person per night, are quite affordable.

You can put on a real Japanese kimono, take an ikebana flower arranging lesson, and learn to make your own green tea.

Feel free to ask the owners to arrange for classes for you.

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108 Smile September 2016

TOWN TAXI, BUS, TRAIN

International

Japan

Japan

Kuwait

TOKYO

OSAKA

KUWAIT

Oliver Requilman

Michi Takada-Capili

Anwar Menachem Catapang

VP for human resources

English teacher

Events manager

There are plenty of places that are free to visit in Tokyo. One is the Imperial Palace East Gardens. Another is the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building Observatories in Shinjuku, where you can enjoy great views of the city. The Fire Museum is also worth your while, especially if you’re visiting with kids.

Go to steak “heaven” at Ikinari, a standing-style steakhouse that serves excellent meat. You can choose the cut you want, and a 200g piece costs around JPY2,500-3,500.

If you’re craving kebabs, go to Mais Alghanim Restaurant at Arabian Gulf Street. You’ll definitely enjoy their kebab platter. The meat is tasty, juicy and tender.

Don’t miss the CupNoodles Museum, where you can customize your very own flavors and experience making fresh noodles by hand.

The Avenues Mall is the largest shopping center in Kuwait. It’s one of the best malls I’ve ever been to.

Dining out in Tokyo doesn’t have to be expensive if you know where to look. I had a bowl of ramen for just JPY500 at a hole-in-the wall diner in Shibuya.

Buy Japanese coffee beans and macha chocolate for pasalubong. They’re affordable and taste good, too.

Respect and social etiquette is highly valued in Japanese society. Remember not to answer your phone when you’re on the train. In Osaka, stay on the right side of the escalator if you are not in a hurry, and do not count your change in front of the cashier when paying for merchandise.

A scarf would make a good and practical souvenir. I got mine for just PHP100 at Souk Al-Mubarakiya, the oldest souk in Kuwait. Aside from cheap shopping, dining here is affordable too.

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110 Smile September 2016

International

Malaysia

Malaysia

Qatar

KOTA KINABALU

KUALA LUMPUR

DOHA

Camille Travilla

Rachel Taylor

Carlo Gabriel Sto Domingo

Business consultant

Travel blogger

Customer sales executive

Indulge in a seafood feast at the Sinsuran Night Market, located near the KK Central Market. Enjoy grilled seafood dishes that cost just MYR8.

Head for Jalan Alor and feast on some of the best (and cheapest) meals in KL. Try the barbecued meats and steamboat.

Visit the Mari Mari Cultural Village at Jalan Kiansom, where you’ll get to see the homes of ethnic communities, try their cuisine and take part in activities such as blow-pipe making. Entry is MYR170 per adult (cash payments only).

Head to Forest Research Institute Malaysia (FRIM) outside KL. It’s just a short journey by public transport.

There, you can go on the canopy walk, enjoy a picnic surrounded by nature and complete an easy or hard trek. Entry is free to the park. There’s a small fee for the canopy walk but there are limited tickets, so call ahead to reserve your slot.

Relax at Signal Hill Observatory and grab a drink or two to cap off the day. You can take a cab to the highest point, or be adventurous and use the stairway near the Atkinson Clock Tower.

There are lots of free walking tours in KL. Try the Free Dataran Merdeka Heritage Guided Tour to learn more about the city's historical buildings.

Restaurant Sridan at West Bay Doha has an extensive international buffet and costs just QAR99. It’s great value, and you get to enjoy the Arabian souk atmosphere and Qatari hospitality.

Visit the Souq Waqif, whose name translates as “the standing market”.

Traditional crafts and goods are sold there, and you’ll also find lots of restaurants and cafés. It's a good place to drop by in the evening.

The best time to visit Doha is in February, when the weather is a moderate 20-22°C.

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112 Smile September 2016

International

Saudi Arabia

Singapore

South Korea

RIYADH

SINGAPORE

BUSAN

Janelle Vales-Yasay

Andrea Cid

Tangerine Trubiano

Lifestyle blogger

Advertising creative

Travel blogger

The best burger in Riyadh comes from a Saudi brand, Hamburgini. Their burger patties are made fresh with quality ingredients every day. At only SAR9 per burger, it’s worth lining up for.

Head for Sugarhall along Amoy Street for excellent cocktails. Every cocktail I’ve had here has been good.

Each costs about SGD22. I’d recommend Tommy’s Margarita and the Oriental Note.

While the capital’s historic old town Diriyah is currently undergoing renovations, the government has opened a part of the area called the Al Bujairi District. Check out the restaurants, cafés, art venues and parks at this gateway to Diriyah.

If you happen to be in town on a public holiday, visit the Istana, the official residence of the president of Singapore.

For an entrance fee of SGD2, you can spend the day exploring the gardens and touring the buildings.

Dine at the restaurants in Jagalchi Fish Market. Pick any seafood you like and have it cooked your way.

To get the perfect view of the city, head for Dongbaek Island Park. From the top of the hill, you can see Haeundae Beach, Nurimaru APEC House, and the famous Gwangalli Bridge. That’s the largest bridge in South Korea, and it lights up at night.

A good buy from South Korea would be HappyCall, a double-sided frying pan.

It’s a little bit pricey, but it'll be worth it if you love to cook.

All stores close during salah (prayer time) so it’s handy to have a mobile app that tells you the prayer times. I use Muslim Pro.

Travel around the city by boat. If you’re at Robertson Quay and want to go to Marina Bay Sands, simply hop on a commuter boat. You can even pay with your EZ-Link card.

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114 Smile September 2016

International

South Korea

Taiwan

Thailand

SEOUL

TAIPEI

BANGKOK

Ingrid Villafuerte Puache

Rose Gregorio

Carlos Dominguez

Social media content creator/ freelance writer

English teacher

Regional social media manager

Myeongdong is home to a buffet restaurant called Under the Sea. It features a wide range of delicious cuisine, including Western, Japanese, Chinese and Korean. You can also have all the drinks, non-alcoholic and alcoholic, that you want.

Visit Ba Xian Tan Kao near Dongmen MRT. Order the “three cups chicken” (TWD250 for a small plate), so named because the recipe calls for a cup each of sesame oil, rice wine and soy sauce. Don’t miss the variety of char-grilled skewers starting at TWD150, and cap off the meal with some fried ice cream.

Pad kra pao (basil stir-fry), moo ping (grilled pork), khao man gai (chicken rice), and coconut ice cream with corn and condensed milk served between two loaves of white bread are my favorites. Try these dishes from stalls around the city.

Visit Nami Island. A great way to explore the island is to rent a bicycle (KRW3,000 for 30 minutes; KRW5,000 for one hour). It’s best to go in the morning to avoid the rush of tourists after lunch.

Explore the Gongguan area. Wander around the National Taiwan University campus, enjoy the Taipei Water Park, and try the street food at the night markets.

Bangkok’s Ari district is the perfect hideout away from bustling Sukhumvit.

The area is home to some of the best cafés in town including Fatbird, Porcupine Café and Casa Lapin. In the evenings, head to Talat Rod Fai and JJ Market for live music and rare vintage finds.

Buy packs of face masks, CC and BB creams, and lip balms and glossies for your girlfriends back home.

Go to the supermarket and stock up on Taiwanese food products. Aside from snacks and tea, I’ve also brought home Taiwanese sausage, which is distinctively sweet and peppery.

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September 2016 Smile 117

International

Thailand

United Arab Emirates

United States of America

PHUKET

DUBAI

GUAM

Connie Mendoza

Mariel Bautista

Felice Tan Valencia

Self-employed globetrotter

IT manager

General manager

Head to Açai Café on Soi Ta-ied, Chalong for an Açai Granola Bowl or Plant Protein Shake before or after a workout. It will give you a natural energy and an antioxidant boost.

I dined at the Al Mahara Seafood Restaurant at the Burj Al Arab hotel. This restaurant features a floor-to-ceiling aquarium. From the hotel, you can get to the restaurant via a submarine-themed elevator.

PROA restaurant in Hagatna is a must for first-time visitors to Guam. For starters, order the Beggar’s Purse Sushi, a signature dish. Locals and tourists fill the place every day, so it’s best to make a reservation a few hours before you intend to dine.

Do the Big Buddha run in Chalong — it’s a gorgeous mountain run that leads to a huge marble Buddha statue overlooking the island. Start as early as 5.30am to watch the sunrise, and to avoid the heat and traffic.

Pure Natural Wholefoods, on Soi Taied, has a wide range of organic, locally sourced food and beauty products that won’t bust your budget.

Try Jumeirah Sceirah at Wild Wadi Waterpark, just in front of the Burj Al Arab. This 32m tandem tube slide is one of the newest attractions in the theme park, and it's a thrilling experience sliding down at the astonishing speed of 80km per hour.

Many Filipinos living in Dubai love to hang out at the City Centre Deira mall during their day off. It’s located near Dubai Creek and the airport.

You experience the 35-minute underwater Atlantis Submarine tour from inside a 65ft submarine. My four-year-old son enjoyed this tour so much. He got to see colorful marine flora and fauna.

Shop at ROSS in Guam Premier Outlets. They restock their shelves with hundreds of items every week.

AREA CODE +66 (76) TOUCHDOWN PHUKET

AREA CODE +971 TOUCHDOWN DUBAI

AREA CODE +1 (671) TOUCHDOWN ANTONIO

INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT GET TO TOWN

INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT GET TO TOWN

B. WON PAT INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT GET

MINIBUS, TAXI

METRO, BUS, TAXI

TO TOWN TAXI, HOTEL SHUTTLE

118 Smile September 2016

Vietnam

Vietnam

HANOI

HO CHI MINH CITY

Therese P. Cruz

Jay Pangilinan

Market researcher

Creative director

Enjoy authentic Vietnamese fare at Cha Ca La Vong. The eponymous dish comprises grilled fish mixed with vermicelli, peanuts, chilli, fish sauce, turmeric and other herbs that combine to create an explosion of flavors in your mouth. Prices are above average, but it’s definitely worth the experience.

The Halong Bay Cruise must be in your itinerary when in Hanoi. Be it a day trip or an overnight cruise, you will be awed by the majestic scenery of limestone pillars and islets. Not bad for roughly USD100 per night per person for an overnight package.

Check out rooftop bar Broma at Nguyen Hue Street. Go in via a nondescript entrance and climb four flights of stairs — the vibe at the top is worth it. There are great cocktails and excellent beats by the resident DJ. Practice your haggling skills at Ben Thanh Market. Shop for souvenirs as well as coffee and roasted nuts.

Don’t be scared to cross the streets.

Make eye contact with the motorcycle drivers as you cross or just raise your hands. They’re pretty good at avoiding people. Once you start a crossing, commit to it — just keep walking.

AREA CODE +84 (4) TOUCHDOWN NOI BAI

AREA CODE +84 (8) TOUCHDOWN TAN SON

INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT GET TO TOWN BUS,

NHAT INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT GET TO

TAXI, MINI BUS

TOWN TAXI

The Philippines

BUSUANGA

BUTUAN

Cha Cababaro

Eric Po

Virgie Brown

Copywriter

Senior creative

Business owner

The cakes and pastries at Calea are reason enough to visit Bacolod. Try the Pistachio Sansrival and the White Chocolate Cheesecake with Raspberry Sauce. At only PHP70-90, they make good pasalubong.

Feed your artistic curiosity at the only declared inhabited national historical landmark in Bacolod — the Hofileña Ancestral House features the eponymous family’s heirloom pieces and precious art collection.

You must go to Santino’s Grill, which is on the main road leading to the pier. Tender meat slides right off the Baby Back Ribs (PHP300 for halfslab). Try their Chili Dynamite too.

Coron tour packages are available at travel agencies downtown, but you can also DIY it. Make sure you check out Kayangan Lake, the Twin Lagoons and Banana Island. Watch out for the corals, and always pay close attention to your guides, especially during diving or snorkeling trips.

Swing by The Ruins for a heritage tour of what was once the grand estate of Don Mariano Lacson and his wife Maria Braga. The Ruins is most beautiful and romantic when it is lit up at dusk.

Baron’s Grill on J.C. Aquino Avenue has the best seafood for sutukil-style dining, which offers dishes that are grilled, stewed and served raw. Their kinilaw is the best I have eaten and prices are affordable, varying according to how much fresh seafood you order.

Riding the 1.3km single zipline at Delta Discovery Park in Barangay Bonbon is exciting as it’s known to be the longest in Asia. It costs PHP650 per person, but they also offer a shorter 400m ride for PHP350.

Drive 32km west of Butuan City and visit Carmen. It has a lot of beautiful beach resorts such as Amontay, Bolihon and Jurassic.

AREA CODE +34 TOUCHDOWN BACOLOD-

AREA CODE +48 TOUCHDOWN FRANCISCO B.

AREA CODE +85 TOUCHDOWN BANCASI

SILAY INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT GET TO

REYES AIRPORT GET TO TOWN SHUTTLE VAN,

AIRPORT GET TO TOWN JEEPNEY, MULTICAB,

TOWN TAXI (APPROX. PHP500), SHUTTLE

HOTEL SHUTTLE

HOTEL SHUTTLE

VAN/BUS (APPROX. PHP200)

120 Smile September 2016

PHOTOS BY LESTER LEDESMA

BACOLOD

CAGAYAN DE ORO

CALBAYOG

CAMIGUIN

Tom Udasco

Julius Bool

Laurence Cruz

Freelance photographer

Tourism student

Art director

Go to Pane e Dolci for delectable pasta, desserts and coffee. Try their Caffe Zibetto, which is civet coffee that can be prepared in three different ways. Have it with a slice of their delicious Opera Cake (PHP145).

Indulge in Special Halo-Halo (PHP55) and Special Siopao (PHP55) at Rebelito’s Refreshments (Magsaysay Blvd cor Rueda St).

Xavier University’s Museo de Oro is home to well-preserved artifacts, art and prehistoric fossils that celebrate Mindanao’s rich culture and history.

The museum is open to the public on weekdays (PHP50 entrance).

Visit the 105-year-old St Peter and Paul Cathedral, the most important landmark in the city. Then, go for a zipline ride at Malajog Ridge Nature Park (PHP20 for entry) — it’s about 750m long and stretches from the ridge all the way to a nearby islet.

Head for The BeeHive and Island of Honey café, located along the Catarman seaside. They serve the best-tasting dragonfruit shake, using honey as a sweetener. They also sell homegrown coffee, honey and nuts.

Go to the White Island sandbar for a fantastic view of Camiguin island’s Mount Vulcan, Mount Hibok-Hibok and Tres Marias volcanoes.

Take home some tablea (cocoa tablets) from Maestrado’s Tablea. They offer free tastings.

Take a jeep to Barangay Tignapoloan and trek to the riverbanks of Cagayan de Oro River to see the 28 cascades that comprise Sinulom Falls.

September is when Calbayog’s colorful Sarakiki-Hadang festival happens. Don’t miss the locals performing a dance inspired by the movements of the rooster, which is performed to bring a bountiful harvest.

AREA CODE +88 TOUCHDOWN LAGUINDINGAN

AREA CODE +55 TOUCHDOWN CALBAYOG

AREA CODE +88 TOUCHDOWN CAMIGUIN

INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT GET TO TOWN TAXI,

AIRPORT GET TO TOWN TAXI, TRICYCLE

AIRPORT GET TO TOWN TRICYCLE

JEEPNEY, MOTORELA, SHUTTLE

122 Smile September 2016

PHOTOS BY LESTER LEDESMA (CAGAYAN DE ORO, CALBAYOG & CAMIGUIN); NELSON PETILLA (CALBAYOG)

The Philippines

PHOTOS BY EDGAR ALAN ZETA YAP (CAUAYAN); LESTER LEDESMA (CATICLAN & CEBU)

CATICLAN (BORACAY)

CAUAYAN

CEBU

Katt Fabon

Arvin Ramirez

Kish Coronado

Paralegal

Bank employee

Bank teller

Go to La Cozina Boracay for lunch.

It’s a beachfront Latin American bistro in Station 1, White Beach. Try their Grilled Cubano Pork (PHP290), Porchetta Tacos (PHP250) and Black Squid Paella (PHP380).

Go to Otep’s Tinuno in Barangay San Fermin to enjoy a meal in a garden.

Tinuno is the Ilokano term for grilled food. For mess-hall-style feasting with friends and family, try the Boodle Fight set (PHP855; good for four to six people).

Check out Spider House (spiderhouseresort.com) on Diniwid Beach if you want to get away from the crowds. Bonus: they have a sushi bar.

Check out the museum at Hacienda de San Luis to learn about the city’s rich cultural heritage. You can also visit Our Lady of The Pillar Church, one of the oldest churches in the country.

Hop on a tricycle to visit gastropub Los Indios Bravos (indiosbravosboracay. com). Pick from their wide selection of Philippine Craft Beer. Can’t decide? Let them help you. My personal fave is the Exit Wounds IPA.

Bring your bike and head for the barrios by the Cagayan River, where you’ll find a lot of trails and beautiful views.

Try the barbecue of Yakski Barbecue on Don Mariano Cui Street — it’s one of the best in Cebu. For a seafood experience, go to Manna SuTuKil Food House, a popular seafood restaurant in Mactan. Their tuwa (soup) is a must-try.

The saang (spider shell) is my personal favorite.

Head to Taboan Public Market and buy some danggit, salted sun-dried rabbitfish that is a breakfast favorite.

It might be stinky but it’s delicious, especially when fried to a crisp.

Go skydiving at Bantayan Island in northern Cebu. Rates starts at PHP18,000.

AREA CODE +36 TOUCHDOWN GODOFREDO

AREA CODE +78 TOUCHDOWN CAUAYAN CITY

AREA CODE +32 TOUCHDOWN MACTAN-CEBU

P. RAMOS AIRPORT GET TO TOWN TRICYCLE

AIRPORT GET TO TOWN TRICYCLE, PRIVATE

INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT GET TO TOWN TAXI,

THEN BOAT (10 MINS TO BORACAY ISLAND);

VAN

MULTICAB, HOTEL SHUTTLE

TICKETS (PHP200) AVAILABLE AT THE AIRPORT ARRIVAL AREA

September 2016 Smile 123

The Philippines

CLARK

COTABATO

Denise Soller-Loseo

Joseph Jeffrey B. Morales

Learning and development consultant

Nurse

For scrumptious Pampagueño dishes, a visit to 1956 Downtown Café by Bale Dutung is a must. Their nine-spice Crispy Aromatic Duckling (PHP620) will make your tastebuds very happy.

If you’re feeling adventurous, head for SandBox at Alviera (entry fee PHP100) in Porac. Adults and kids can enjoy a myriad of activities there, from rope courses to archery. You can also ride an ATV (PHP2,500 per hour).

Pastil is steamed rice and seasoned shredded chicken meticulously wrapped in banana leaves, and this unique and utterly delicious street delicacy makes for a filling meal.

The habal-habal ride that takes you to the jump-off point of Asik-Asik Falls could well be the bumpiest two-hour ride of your life, but it’s only half of the adventure. After that, you’ll be rewarded by the beauty of Asik-Asik.

AREA CODE +45 TOUCHDOWN CLARK

AREA CODE +64 TOUCHDOWN AWANG

INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT GET TO TOWN TAXI,

AIRPORT GET TO TOWN JEEPNEY,

SHUTTLE, CAR RENTAL, JEEPNEY

MOTORCYCLE, CHARTERED VAN

PHOTO BY LESTER LEDESMA (CLARK)

Purchase magnets, keychains and brasswares made by locals. Just walk around the city and you’ll find plenty of stores selling these collectibles.

The Philippines

DIPOLOG

DUMAGUETE

Anthony R. Castañeda

Lorie Ann Selga

Lex Alinsod

Quality analyst

Managing director

Wedding photographer

Head to UrChoice Bistro Café to enjoy pizza prepared by chef Rolando, whose culinary style has been dubbed “Itanoy” (Italian-Pinoy) by locals. My favorite is the Margherita Pizza (PHP320).

Gabby’s Bistro serves all-day breakfast, and you can pick from various silog (egg and rice combos) and American platters. Prices range from PHP150-300, and their cool and colorful interior is Instagram-worthy. Don’t leave Dumaguete without a box of silvanas from Sans Rival Cakes & Pastries.

Dine at Davao Dencia’s Restaurant.

Try the Inihaw na Porkchop (PHP75) and Crab Meat Omelet (PHP165) as well as their desserts.

Relax at The Gap Orchard Resort (entry fee PHP50), which has an Olympicsized swimming pool.

Buy textiles, baskets, bags and other handicrafts from the Pasalubong Center on Palma Gil Street, or from Aldevinco Shopping Center on Claro M. Recto Avenue.

Montaño Sardines offers the tastiest bottled sardines. They are most famous for their Spanish-style sardines, and also offer versions packed in olive oil and tomato sauce, as well as delicacies like bottled bangus (milkfish) and mangosteen preserves.

Always make the Montaño outlet in Turno your last stop to ensure you have enough luggage weight. The sardines may be packed in small bottles, but they’re heavy.

Visit Twin Lakes. It’s a great escape from crowded city life. You can get there by motorcycle (PHP150-200).

Walk along the boulevard and treat yourself to tempura or balut at dusk. Visit Silliman University and check out its Anthropology Museum (entry fee PHP30 on weekdays; PHP60 on weekends).

AREA CODE +82 TOUCHDOWN FRANCISCO

AREA CODE +65 TOUCHDOWN DIPOLOG

AREA CODE +35 TOUCHDOWN SIBULAN

BANGOY INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT GET TO

AIRPORT GET TO TOWN TRICYCLE (TO

AIRPORT GET TO TOWN TRICYCLE (TO TOWN,

TOWN PUBLIC UTILITY JEEPNEY, TAXI

DOWNTOWN AREA, PHP20 FOR 2 PEOPLE)

PHP100 ON AVERAGE), JEEPNEY

126 Smile September 2016

PHOTOS BY JOJIE ALCANTARA (DAVAO)

DAVAO

The Philippines

GENERAL SANTOS

ILOILO

KALIBO

Ionne Emia-Jao

Renz Abad

Hamelton Galili

Banker

Dentistry student

Banker

Dine at Tatoy’s Manokan and Seafoods. Their tempura is delicious. The city is also known for La Paz Batchoy, a soup dish you will find in many local eateries.

Head to Aquafresh Manokan just across Kalibo Bus Terminal on Osmeña Avenue. Order their famous version of chicken inasal (PHP68). This juicy grilled chicken dish is best eaten with your hands.

Head for the Iloilo River Esplanade for a run or a stroll. There are dining options there as well.

Visit the Bakhawan Eco-Park, a mangrove forest and research center for the conservation and preservation of various bakhawan (mangrove) species.

You can even rent a tent for an overnight stay.

Head to Lagao and experience the famous barbecue (PHP6 per stick) at Tiongson arcade. You will also find stalls selling grilled seafood at affordable prices. They also have a version of the Knickerbocker dessert.

Feeling adventurous? Try paragliding at Safi Ranch Paragliding Flysite in Maasin. Sarangani Paraglide can help with advance bookings and provide the 4x4 ride to the flying site. A tandem flight costs PHP2,500-3,500.

PHOTOS BY LESTER LEDESMA

Head about 50 minutes east of GenSan to Glan and enjoy the unspoiled white-sand beaches in the “Boracay of the South”.

Visit Jaro Cathedral, which is also the National Shrine of Our Lady of the Candles. The image of Our Lady was canonically crowned by Pope John Paul II when he visited Iloilo in 1981.

Drive 30 minutes to the town of Tangalan, to see the St. John Nepomucene Church built in 1889. From there, head to Jawili Falls.

AREA CODE +83 TOUCHDOWN GENERAL

AREA CODE +33 TOUCHDOWN ILOILO

AREA CODE +36 TOUCHDOWN KALIBO

SANTOS INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT GET TO

INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT GET TO TOWN

INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT GET TO TOWN

TOWN TAXI, TRICYCLE, HOTEL SHUTTLE

TAXI, VAN

TRICYCLE, TAXI, JEEPNEY, BUS, VAN

September 2016 Smile 129

The Philippines

LAOAG

John Mart Etom

Roy Secretario

IT specialist

Sports photographer

Almost all local restos in Laoag and neighboring municipalities offer empanada, a deep-fried pastry stuffed with meat, egg and other vegetables, and dipped in a special blend of vinegar and spices. Prices range from PHP35-50 each.

Waway’s Restaurant, established in 1967, is a good place to try the spicy Bicol Express. Make good use of the all-youcan-eat offer (PHP250) by sampling other native dishes like Pinangat.

Rent a car or van so you can easily explore Laoag and Vigan. Include these in your itinerary: The Sinking Bell Tower of St. Williams Cathedral, the La Paz Sand Dunes, Bangui Wind Farm and Calle Crisologo in Vigan.

PHOTOS BY LESTER LEDESMA

LEGAZPI

Chat with locals at Legazpi Boulevard, the coastal road network extending from the central business district to the port area. From there, you can view the majestic Mayon Volcano.

Buy pasalubong at Albay Pili Nut. They make the best pili nut products in the region. They also sell polvoron and mazapan de pili.

AREA CODE +77 TOUCHDOWN LAOAG

AREA CODE +52 TOUCHDOWN LEGAZPI

INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT GET TO TOWN SIRIB

AIRPORT GET TO TOWN TAXI, RENTAL VAN,

BUS, JEEPNEY, TRICYCLE, PRE-ARRANGED

TRICYCLE

RENTAL VAN

PHOTOS BY LESTER LEDESMA (MANILA); RAYMOND CALACDAY (NAGA)

The Philippines

METRO MANILA

NAGA

Carlo Casas

Melanie Ann Ursua

Photographer

Real estate broker

Check out Lágrima in Legazpi Village for some of the best tacos and burritos in the city. Order the Super Burrito (PHP300) with your choice of chicken, beef or pork — it will fill you up for the rest of the day.

Have it with the orange sauce.

Bob Marlin Restaurant (bobmarlin. ph) on Magsaysay Avenue is famous for its OMG Crispy Pata (PHP429), said to be one of the best in the country. They also have delicious Bicolano delicacies like pinangat and Bicol Express (PHP99 each).

Catch a gig over at saGuijo Café + Bar (saguijo.com) on Guijo Street and enjoy performances from some of the Philippines’ best musicians.

Naga City Market sells locally made products that make for good pasalubong.

You can get great deals there.

Club Manila East (clubmanilaeast. com) in Taytay, Rizal has a wave pool, where you can take surfing lessons offered by the Philippine Surfing Academy.

CamSur Watersports Complex (cwcwake.com) has a cable wakeboarding park, a skate park, a swimming pool and a man-made lake with water activities for kids and adults. Wakeboarding costs PHP165 per hour. Use of the pool costs PHP150 per person.

AREA CODE +2 TOUCHDOWN NINOY AQUINO

AREA CODE +54 TOUCHDOWN NAGA AIRPORT

INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT GET TO TOWN TAXI

GET TO TOWN TRICYCLE, TAXI, JEEPNEY

The Philippines

ORMOC

OZAMIZ

Rowell Lyndon D. Cinco

Jumelito Chino Capilot

Plant manager

Software engineer

Head to Lorenzo’s Café, which overlooks the sea port. Chill out with a can of beer and pair it with their hearty Vietnamese spring rolls (PHP195).

PHOTOS BY GERRY RUIZ (ORMOC); LESTER LEDESMA (OZAMIZ)

Go hiking on Alto Peak, the highest mountain in Eastern Visayas. Follow that with a ride in a kayak (PHP50) or a floating cottage (PHP500) on Lake Danao (PHP15 entrance).

Ormoc’s “Queen Pineapple” is famous for its sweetness and the unofficial icon of the city. It’s a must-try and a great pasalubong.

Visit Manukan ni Hanz-Ken at Circumferential Road in Aguada for a quick lunch. They’re famous for their native chicken soup and crispy chicken adobo (PHP300 for a whole chicken).

Prices for other dishes start at PHP50.

Cotta de Santiago is a short walk from the port. See the Our Lady of Triumph at the Cotta Shrine. Cotta Beach is also the perfect place to skimboard or watch the sunset. Enjoy street food from the kiosks there, and take a stroll around Cotta Plaza.

Buy malong, native jewelry and local delicacies at the public market located in the heart of the city.

AREA CODE +2 TOUCHDOWN NINOY AQUINO

AREA CODE +88 TOUCHDOWN LABO AIRPORT

INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT GET TO TOWN

GET TO TOWN TRICYCLE

TRICYCLE, CAR RENTAL

The Philippines

PAGADIAN

The Subtle Luxury of reÀned simplicity.

PUERTO PRINCESA

Stevan Hugh Fuego Alvarado

Jonette Valenciano

Sales assistant

Freelance writer and artist

Superior Queen Room

Paboreal King Room

• Breakfast included • Free Wi-Fi • 5 mins from the airport • Shuttle service from and to the airport.

Blessed Rd.-Abueg d Abueg Sr Sr. Rd Rd. II I Brgy Brgy. B Bancao Bancao, Puerto Princesa City, Palawan Philippines 5300 (+63) (48) 434 – 0326 Globe: +639778222080 Smart: +639499906736 Email: paborealboutiquehotel@yahoo.com Website: paborealboutiquehotel.com Smoke free hotel / LGBT friendly

Dine on fresh seafood at 22 Greenhouse Fishing Station and Restaurant. Some of the fish they serve come from their own ponds.

After visiting marvelous natural attractions such as Manga Falls and Mount Susong Dalaga, shop for dried fish at Agora Market. You can take them home for yourself or gift them as pasalubong.

Ride the unique Pagadian tricycle.

Its 40° incline makes for a fun experience — you’re in for a rollercoaster-like ride on the city’s uphill and downhill streets.

KaLui Restaurant is an art gallery as well as a resto. Try their tuna kilawin (PHP150) or seafood platters, and wash them down with either a lemon-ginger shake (PHP50) or an ice-cold beer.

Visit the Palawan Butterfly Ecological Garden and Tribal Village (entry fee PHP150). You’ll get to see exotic species, and learn about an indigenous group’s way of life.

The Iwahig Firefly Tour (PHP700) may be short, but it’s unforgettable. Tour guides/boatmen will show you where to look for these glowing critters. You can also enjoy a buffet for PHP500.

AREA CODE +62 TOUCHDOWN PAGADIAN

AREA CODE +48 TOUCHDOWN PUERTO

DOMESTIC AIRPORT GET TO TOWN TRICYCLE,

PRINCESA INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT GET TO

JEEPNEY

TOWN VAN, TRICYCLE (PHP50), MULTICAB

PHOTOS BY EDGAR ALAN ZETA YAP (PAGADIAN); LESTER LEDESMA (PUERTO PRINCESA)

Deluxe Family Room

ROXAS

Mylene Bendijo

Alvin Sabay

Legal secretary

SEO link builder

Make your way to Café Terraza in Pueblo de Panay to tuck into delicious dessert while enjoying a 360° view of Roxas City. We tried their mouthwatering cheesecakes (PHP125) and aromatic coffee.

Head to Precious Inasal and Bulalo and try their inasal house specials (from PHP100). Appetizers like Chicharon Bulaklak (PHP160) and seaweed salad are also must-tries.

Visit Santa Monica Church — also called Panay Church — where you will find relics and the largest bell in the Philippines.

PHOTOS BY LESTER LEDESMA (ROXAS); GEORGE CABIG (SAN JOSE)

SAN JOSE

Learn about the city’s heritage at Ang Panublion Museum (also known as Roxas City Museum). It’s housed in what used to be a water tank, and offers a nice overview of the city’s cultural traditions.

Entry is free.

You can visit Ambulong Island, Grace Island, Ilin Island and White Island in just one day. Boat rental for two people costs PHP1,500. If you dive, go check out Apo Reef, the second-largest contiguous coral reef in the world.

Inasakan Beach’s fine, powder-white sand makes it a must-visit as well. There used to be a resort there, but now they just have cottages where you can sip fresh coconut juice (PHP15) in the shade.

AREA CODE +36 TOUCHDOWN ROXAS

AREA CODE +43 TOUCHDOWN SAN JOSE

AIRPORT GET TO TOWN TRICYCLE

AIRPORT GET TO TOWN TRICYCLE

The Philippines

SIARGAO

SURIGAO

TACLOBAN

Ivy Ocampo

Frances Faye L. Fernando

Lord Christian Rapin

Multilingual specialist

Development worker

Site engineer

Try the barbecue at Ronaldo’s Inn & Restobar. It’s yummy and affordable.

Service is also quick.

Aside from surfing or learning how to surf, check out Magpupungko Beach and Tidal Pools in the town of Pilar.

Check out Café Lucia on Real Street near the Tacloban City Convention Center.

Try their special green tea and baby back ribs (PHP220). The café has comfortable interiors with a great view of the sea, which makes for a romantic dining experience.

Climb the 380 steps of the MabuaLooc Concrete Mountain Trail to enjoy a nice view of Mabua Pebble Beach, and visit Looc Pebble Beach in Punta Bilar.

You can only return from Punta Bilar in a four-wheel drive due to the steep road, so it might be better to hike up to Mabua again and return to the city on a tricycle.

Visit Magsaysay Town Center, where the Tacloban City Sangyawan Music Festival and Pintados Festival are usually held. On normal days, Taclobanons go to “Magz Center” simply to chill and hang out.

AREA CODE +86 TOUCHDOWN SAYAK AIRPORT

AREA CODE +86 TOUCHDOWN SURIGAO

AREA CODE +53 TOUCHDOWN DANIEL

GET TO TOWN TRICYCLE (APPROX. PHP200 TO

AIRPORT GET TO TOWN TRICYCLE, MULTICAB,

Z. ROMUALDEZ AIRPORT GET TO TOWN

CLOUD9), HABAL-HABAL, SHUTTLE VAN

HOTEL SHUTTLE

JEEPNEY, TAXI, TRICYCLE, HIRED VAN

Go to Patrick’s on the Beach resort to shop for souvenirs handcrafted by locals.

PHOTO BY LESTER LEDESMA (SURIGAO)

For hearty grilled food, check out Same Place Grill near Gaisano Capital Surigao mall. My favorites are the perfectly marinated sliced pork (PHP18) and chorizo skewers (PHP30), which go great with beer.

September 2016 Smile 139

TAGBILARAN

TANDAG

TAWI-TAWI

Mimcy Catibog

Renz Anthony R. Sumapal

Jojo Policarpio

Knowledge management

Government employee

Photographer

Dine at the famous Goldbar Restaurant in Mabua, where you can enjoy fresh seafood along with a nice view of the beach.

Have a tray of local halal delicacies at Bongao Coffee Shop. Don’t finish everything on the tray — simply eat what you like and pay for that. Their brewed coffee is also great, and I only paid PHP60 for a feast.

Try the Baked Prawns with Lyonnaise Potato or Steamed Seabass in Ginger Sauce at Oceanica Seafood Restaurant in Panglao. Their seafood is fresh and good value for money.

Take a snorkeling tour at Balicasag Island to see giant clams, sea turtles and fishes. Our guide from BoholLife Tours (bohollifetours.com) was experienced and didn’t give up until we found turtles.

Bohol’s signature peanut kisses are a perpetual favorite with tourists, but if you want to change things up, get chichaworms (deep fried, crispy worms, PHP80) or HillColate (hill-shaped chocolates, PHP50) at Tagbilaran airport.

Head to San Agustin’s fascinating Britania Islands, which comprise more than a dozen islets with white-sand beaches. Bring snorkeling or scuba gear to see beautiful fishes and corals up close.

Make island-hopping arrangements at La Entrada Beach Resort (+63 930 227 5934) for PHP1,500.

Travel light so you can explore more places — Tandag is the gateway to beautiful surfing spots and beaches.

Check out the white-sand beaches in Cagwait, or the surfing spots in Lanuza.

Take pictures at the Old Chinese Pier.

Hundreds of colorful wooden boats line the port, and you can buy cheap fish at the market, which sells it by tumpok (bundle).

Trek Bud Bongao mountain to catch the best sunrise and sunset views of the town and the ocean. Mountaineers in particular shouldn’t miss this experience.

AREA CODE +38 TOUCHDOWN TAGBILARAN

AREA CODE +86 TOUCHDOWN TANDAG CITY

AREA CODE +68 TOUCHDOWN SANGA-SANGA

AIRPORT GET TO TOWN TRICYCLE/

AIRPORT GET TO TOWN TRICYCLE

AIRPORT GET TO TOWN TRICYCLE (PHP20-25

MOTORELA, TAXI, HOTEL SHUTTLE

TO TOWN PROPER), JEEPNEY (PHP800 A DAY FOR A LARGE GROUP)

140 Smile September 2016

PHOTOS BY LESTER LEDESMA (TAGBILARAN & TANDAG); EDGAR ALAN ZETA YAP (TAWI-TAWI)

The Philippines

TUGUEGARAO

ZAMBOANGA

Michael Angelo H. Lasam

Marc Ervin Tabirao

Jan Pauline M. Santos

Business analyst

Architecture student and artist

Philosophy student and logistics supervisor

Try the longganisa (PHP230 per kilo) from Corazon Cadatal butcher shop. It has an addictive garlicky flavor, and it's best served with warm rice and spiced pinakurat vinegar.

PHOTOS BY LESTER LEDESMA (TUGUEGARAO & ZAMBOANGA); ERICK LIRIOS (VIRAC)

VIRAC

Check out the Tuguegarao Cathedral on Rizal Street. It was built in the 18th century by Dominican friars and was recently renovated.

Take a 15-minute drive to the town of Peñablanca to visit the seven chambers of Callao Cave and the mystical Mororan River for good fortune. You might even get to see a bat colony leaving the caves if you stick around at dusk.

Tuck into seafood and fresh meats like carabeef (carabao meat) while watching the sunset at Sea Breeze Restaurant (+63 52 811 0664). Then head to Blue Café in Virac town center for great coffee and desserts.

Get your history fix by visiting Bato Church in Bato. Made of mortar and coral stone, it’s a fine example of 19th-century Filipino-Spanish architecture.

Go to Baras and visit the cliffs of Binurong and Balacay Points, which face the Pacific Ocean. You can also check out Puraran Beach, the location for the annual festival Catanduanes Reef Break which celebrates surfing, skating and music every summer.

Dine at Mano-Mano na Greenfield Restaurant on Gov. Ramos Avenue, where you can eat local dishes using your hands. Try the famous Curacha (deep-sea crabs served with special sauce, starts at PHP850 per kilo) at Alavar Seafood Restaurant (+63 62 991 2483) in Tetuan.

Visit the Fort Pilar Shrine and Museum to learn some history and admire classic architecture. Visit the famed Santa Cruz Island and frolic on its majestic pinksand beach.

Head to Canelar Barter Trade Center to shop for malongs, scarves and shawls with unique designs at cheaper prices.

There are also different varieties of pearls available there.

AREA CODE +78 TOUCHDOWN TUGUEGARAO

AREA CODE +52 TOUCHDOWN VIRAC

AREA CODE +62 TOUCHDOWN ZAMBOANGA

AIRPORT GET TO TOWN TRICYCLE

AIRPORT GET TO TOWN TRICYCLE (LESS THAN

INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT GET TO TOWN TAXI,

PHP10 TO TOWN CENTER), TAXI, JEEPNEY

JEEPNEY, TRICYCLE

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PARTNER PROMOTIONS

The District for beach party luxury Enhance your beach party experience with a stay at The District Boracay, located on the quieter side of Station 2, and just a skip and a hop away from Boracay’s bustling nightspots. The District takes care of partygoers by providing guests with the Best Brunch Buffet during their stay — the crêpe, sandwich and pasta stations open for early birds at 6.30am and stay open for the late risers until 1pm. Come happy hour (5pm to 8pm), guests can cap their day with drinks and luxurious Meduse Shisha at Star Lounge, or savour Caruso Ristorante Italiano’s delectable dishes during a romantic beach dinner. Weary clubbers can also seek rejuvenation at Upperhouse Spa, which offers an introductory special of 40% off on its services. thedistrictboracay.com

Everlasting love stories in platinum Personalized platinum rings are becoming the next big thing for couples who want to express their love stories in the design of their wedding bands. Odysseus Suarez wedding rings offers slimmer and simpler bands for those who want the choice metal at accessible prices, etching them with initials, names, dates and other personal touches to make them more meaningful. The Pt900 platinum makes for long-lasting wedding rings due to its composition of 90% platinum and 10% palladium, a mix purer than 18- and 14-carat gold. Unlike gold or silver, which get scratched as they age, platinum moves across its surface as it wears over time, creating a charming patina that matches the love of a couple growing old together. suarezweddingrings.com

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PROMOTIONAL FEATURE

Constant comfort RELIVE HAPPY MEMORIES AND MAKE NEW ONES AT THE ARISTOCRAT

Lola Asiang

T

he rainy season often triggers cravings for comfort food. For some, the wet and rainy weather may induce a hankering for a warm bowl of sinigang or arroz caldo, while many may yearn for a plate of Java rice and chicken barbecue from The Aristocrat.

After all, many of us connect the smells and flavors of The Aristocrat to pleasant memories. Having been around since 1936, the restaurant has been part of many Filipino families’ celebrations — from birthdays to graduation parties, to weddings and anniversaries.

It all started with Engracia “Lola Asiang” Cruz-Reyes, who made it her mission to cook and serve delicious food, not just for her family and friends, but to the community as well.

In 1928, she opened an eatery, called

Lapu-Lapu, in her family home. Then in 1936, she came up with the Adobo Sandwich, which quickly became a favorite among her family and their friends. It was included in the menu of the rolling food store she launched in 1940.

Not too long after that, Lola Asiang and her husband, Alex, opened the first Aristocrat Restaurant at what is now Roxas Boulevard, on the spot formerly occupied by the food truck.

That restaurant is still standing today, just as Lola Asiang’s spirit and mission lives on in every Aristocrat restaurant.

Eighty years on, The Aristocrat still prepares and serves its classics the same way. You can rest assured that

The Aristocrat began as a food truck in the 1940s

you can always order your favorite dishes and relive your best memories at their restaurants. Even better, you can make new memories with your kids and grandkids.

Visit aristocrat.com.ph to find an Aristocrat Restaurant near you. Follow @TheOriginalAristocrat on Facebook and @aristocrat_ph on Instagram.

PARTNER PROMOTIONS

A new Aristocrat in town Catering to diners east of Manila, a new branch of The Aristocrat opened last June on Marcos Highway, spreading its time-honored tradition of delicious chicken barbecue and other Filipino cuisine. Open from 10am to 11pm, this new branch in Barangay Mayamot, Antipolo City is a great venue for parties and other gatherings. Reservations are accepted all day from Monday to Friday, and on Saturdays up to lunchtime. If you’re at home craving food from The Aristocrat’s restaurant and bakeshop, satisfaction is just a phone call away — call +63 2 894 0000 to order favorites such as pancit luglog, dinuguan with puto, lumpiang ubod, arroz caldo and many other dishes that generations treasure as comfort food. aristocrat.com.ph

Set the perfect mood with GE LED lighting GE Lighting’s LED bulbs have long lit rooms more efficiently and used less power than compact fluorescent lights (CFLs). The first visible LED was invented by GE scientist Nick Holanyak Jr. in 1962, and the company now offers more solutions that you can just plug into your home’s existing lighting fixtures to get the best of LED benefits. GE LED products such as Bright Stik, T8 Glass Tube, Deco Candle Bulb and Slim Downlight can replace traditional CFLs for various light fixtures to achieve energy savings, versatility and sustainability. Whether you need to illuminate an office or create soft lighting for a cozy nook, you can play with these products to customize creative lighting effects. gelighting.com

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Welcome to

Cebu Pacific Airline news, travel information, maps and onboard goodies

ON THE NETWORK

CHECK OUT THE MID-AUTUMN FESTIVAL LANTERN DISPLAYS IN SINGAPORE AND HONG KONG THIS MONTH.

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Company updates

Passenger volume exceeds 10 million CEBU PACIFIC CARRIED 9% MORE TRAVELERS IN THE FIRST HALF OF 2016 COMPARED TO THE SAME PERIOD LAST YEAR

Stand a chance to fly for free Use your Petron Value Card at any of the 2,000 Petron service stations nationwide, and you could become one of six winners to receive 25,000 GetGo points with the Petron and GetGo Fuel Your Flights raffle promo. GetGo is the lifestyle rewards program of Cebu Pacific.

With that amount of points, you can book a ticket and fly to your top international destination via Cebu Pacific for free! So have your Petron Value Card ready when you purchase gas, diesel, kerosene, auto LPG fuel, engine oils and

and Manila–Fukuoka routes in 2015. Trips to China, Taiwan, Hong Kong, Singapore, the Middle East and Australia also saw improved passenger tallies.

“We are very proud to share that since CEB’s inception in 1996, our passengers now number more than 130 million and counting. These promising figures encourage us to cater to the growing travel demand not just in Manila, but throughout our six strategic hubs nationwide,” says Atty. JR Mantaring, CEB Vice President for Corporate Affairs.

Score low fares at the Philippine Travel Mart Cebu Pacific will be at the Philippine Travel Mart from September 2 to 4, 2016.

Score low fares to China, Japan, South Korea and other exciting destinations. The Expo will be held at the SMX Convention Center Manila, Mall of Asia Complex, Pasay City. Come and visit the CEB booth at Hall 4 Booth Q, from 10am to 8pm.

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at least 500 Petron Value Card Peso points into GetGo Points. Two Petron Value Card Peso points are equal to three GetGo points. You gain one e-raffle entry per one GetGo point converted — so that’s already 750 GetGo points and 750 raffle entries.

To convert your Petron Peso Points, text REDEEM<space>16-digit PETRON CARD#<space> GETGO<space>AMOUNT <space>GETGO ACCOUNT# to 0917 567 1111 on or before September 30. The raffle draw is on October 7, 2016.

Don’t have GetGo? Register now for a GetGo account at GetGo.com.ph

PHOTO BY AJIG IBASCO (MAIN)

Cebu Pacific carried over 10 million travelers from January to June this year — up 9% compared to the same six-month stretch in 2015. Flights were about 87% full on average.

The airline also reached 1.6 million passengers in June alone — an 8% increase from the same month in 2015. The growth is mainly due to popular destinations in Visayas and Mindanao, such as Kalibo, Tacloban, Siargao and Tagbilaran.

Passenger volume to and from Japan also increased 21% due to the launch of the Cebu–Tokyo (Narita)

Petron Gasul from Petron’s participating outlets, so you can earn points and better your chances of winning.

To join the raffle, convert

Fly to Seoul from Kalibo Cebu Pacific will begin daily direct flights between Kalibo, Aklan and Incheon (Seoul), South Korea on October 1, 2016.

The Kalibo–Incheon route will use the 180-seater Airbus A320. It will leave Kalibo at 1.50am and land in Incheon at 7.10am. The return flight departs Incheon at 7.55am and arrives in Kalibo on the same day at 11.15am.

Regular year-round fares for the oneway Kalibo–Incheon route start at PHP3,549.

“The new Kalibo–Incheon route

CEB will fly you direct to Seoul from Kalibo, Aklan

opens opportunities for passengers to explore must-see places in Incheon, such as Wolmi-Do Island, Landing Memorial Hall and Jeondeungsa Temple, among others,” says Atty. JR Mantaring, CEB Vice President for Corporate Affairs.

THESE STICKERS WILL MAKE CHATTING WITH YOUR FRIENDS ABOUT #CEBTRAVELS MORE FUN. DOWNLOAD THE CEBU PACIFIC STICKERS ON VIBER NOW!

CEB aims to improve fuel economy CEB has enlisted OpenAirlines’ SkyBreathe Fuel Efficiency, a fuel management system of Big Data algorithms, to evaluate flight data and determine consumption patterns in of all its flights. “With more than 12,000 flights per month, all the data automatically collected by SkyBreathe will help us save time and achieve the best fuel economy. Fuel is a significant factor in airlines’ operations, accounting for 20% to 40% of their cost.

With this new fuel program, our passengers can continue to enjoy the lowest fares possible for their flights, ” says Lance Gokongwei, CEB President and CEO.

Help children in need with Cebu Pacific and UNICEF

Left to right: UNICEF Celebrity Advocate for Children Anne Curtis, CEB President and CEO Lance Gokongwei, UNICEF Representative Lotta Sylwander and UNICEF National Ambassador Gary Valenciano at the launch of CEB and UNICEF’s Change for Good program in June

Donate any currency to UNICEF’s First 1,000 Days Health and Nutrition program after the Fun Games portion of your Cebu Pacific flight.

The program is part of UNICEF’s Change for Good initiative, a global partnership between the organization and the international airline industry since 1987. CEB is the first airline in South-East Asia to partner with UNICEF and Change for Good. The program started on July 1 at CEB’s Manila hub, and will soon be carried out at its other Philippine hubs.

Your donations will help provide Filipino children with vital supplies and services including maternal

nutrition, mother and baby check-ups, skilled birth attendance, center-based delivery, breastfeeding from birth to 2 years, micronutrient supplementation, vaccination, management of pneumonia and diarrhea, treatment of severe acute malnutrition and safe water, adequate sanitation and hygiene education.

These critical interventions within the first 1,000 days of children’s lives will protect them from life-threatening diseases, allow them to finish more years of school and go on to earn up to 50% more in adulthood. For more information, visit cebupacificair.com and 1000days.unicef.ph September 2016 Smile 149

Travel tips

Sit back and relax DON’T BE THE SUBJECT OF YOUR FELLOW PASSENGER’S FURY. KNOW WHEN IT’S RUDE AND WHEN IT'S TOTALLY FINE TO RECLINE

We all want to be comfortable during a flight — to recline our seats, put on our eye masks and drift off to dreamland. But when is it okay to recline your seat and when is it just plain rude?

Read these tips before pushing that button.

Be mindful. Look behind you to see if your fellow passenger is trying to reach for his bag or has hot coffee on his tray table. This is especially important if the person behind you is a child. Their little fingers may get pinched, which will surely cause them to howl. In that case, everyone, not just the parents, will get mad at you.

Be polite. Let the person behind you know you're about to recline your seat. If you're the person seated behind a reclined seat and need a bit more space to be comfortable, politely ask your fellow passenger to adjust his seat slightly. If he or she doesn't comply, relay your request to your cabin crew.

Watch your angle. Even if the seat can recline fully, it doesn't mean you should, unless it's a red-eye flight where everyone will likely be sleeping. Find an angle that's comfortable for you and will not inconvenience the passenger behind you.

Need extra legroom? Book a seat at the emergency exit.

How to search, book and check in for flights Online Cebupacificair.com On your mobile device Download the Cebu Pacific mobile app from the App Store or Google Play. Book tickets and check in for your flights with just a few quick taps. You can also select baggage, meals and seat options, then pay by credit card.

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On the phone Need to speak to an operator? Call the following numbers: • Australia: • Hong Kong: • Manila: +61 2 9119 2956 +852 5803 3088 +63 2 7020 888 • United States: • Singapore: • Cebu: +1 855 5 CEBPAC +65 315 80808 +63 32 230 8888 It’s fun to be social Connect with us, and be among the first to know about our promos and other updates. Just “like” our @CebuPacificAir social media pages on Facebook, Twitter and Instagram.

Travel information

Stretch and recline Where you’re seated in the plane can spell the difference between

Check it

bliss and misery. Get the seat you

CARRY-ON NOT ENOUGH? AVOID HAVING TO PAY EXCESS BAGGAGE FEES AT THE CHECK-IN COUNTER BY PURCHASING YOUR BAGGAGE ALLOWANCE BEFORE YOUR FLIGHT

SEE THE SUMMA R F E E S FO Y O F R THES E ADD-ON S bit.ly/1d AT g45ec

want by reserving it online. Here are your choices:

YOUR OPTIONS

Small 15kg max

Standard 20kg max

Large 30kg max

Large Plus 40kg max*

Each passenger is only allowed one prepaid item of baggage per booking.

But don’t worry — you can always upgrade your allowance, as long as you have up to four hours before your scheduled time of departure. Just go to the Manage Booking tab on cebupacificair.com, or call the customer service hotline or the sales office. *A checked-in bag cannot exceed 30kg per piece to avoid injury to the porters. So if you purchase a 40kg baggage allowance, you need to break it up into two 20kg items of luggage, for example, or into one item that's 30kg and another that's 10kg.

TAKE NOTE

Worry-free travel When we’re traveling, there are plenty of factors that are beyond our control. But don't let these unknowns stop you from exploring new places, and having fun while you’re at it. That’s what TravelSure is for.

TravelSure, which you can purchase together with your Cebu Pacific flight tickets, offers protection from accidents, coverage for emergency medical treatments, and benefits for losses and delays. Visit travelsure.ph for more information and to get a free quote.

For more information about prepaid baggage allowance, seat selector and other add-ons, visit cebupacificair.com and click on the Travel Services tab.

As with your baggage allowance, you can select or upgrade your seat up to four hours before departure. Want to sit on the exit row? Be sure you meet these requirements: • You’re 15 years old or above; • You’re not sitting with an infant or a passenger who is below 15 years old; • You’re not traveling with anyone who may need your assistance if there is an emergency; • You’re fit and able-bodied, and do not have any permanent or temporary impairments; • You’re able to speak and understand English; • You’re able and willing to help the cabin crew in the unlikely event of an evacuation or emergency situation.

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Airport of the month

IF YOU’RE FLYING IN OR OUT OF...

Did you know that Osaka’s Kansai International Airport (KIX) was voted “World’s Best Airport for Baggage Delivery” in the 2016 World Airport Survey by Skytrax? It’s also been reported that no luggage has gone missing at the airport since it opened over 20 years ago.

Knowing that your luggage will be well taken care of is just one of the things that make Kansai a comfortable stop before, during and after a flight.

Other amenities include: 152 Smile September 2016

• Coin-operated showers at the KIX Airport Lounge and International Gate Area Center at Terminal 1, and also on the second floor of Aeroplaza. These are perfect if you'd like to freshen up during a layover.

• Massage sessions from the terminal shop on the third floor of Terminal 1, or the Refresh Square Shop on the second floor of Aeroplaza. These sessions can last a brisk 10 minutes or up to an hour if you have more time to spare.

• Hire a guide via the KIX VIP Service

for a fuss-free departure, arrival or transfer.

• Book in advance for the baggage delivery service, which can transport your bags from your home to the airport, or from the airport to your home. The relevant counters can be found at Terminal 1.

• You can also store your bags in the coin lockers, which charge by the hour or day. Cebu Pacific flies to Osaka three times a week. cebupacificair. com; kansai-airport.or.jp

PHOTO BY LEWIS TSE PUI LUNG/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

Kansai International Airport, Osaka