Pairing the Paisajes

PAIRING THE PAISAJES

Understanding the Entanglements of Wine Culture and Landscape Across Argentina’s Wine Producing Regions

Master of Landscape Architecture I AP ‘24

Master of Landscape Architecture I AP ‘24

ROCIO ALONSO

ELAINE ZMUDA

NEUQUÉN

San Patricio del Chañar

MENDOZA Uco Valley

SALTA Calchaqui Valley

Thank you to the Penny White Project Fund for this unbelievable opportunity to experience Argentina through such a unique perspective.

Thank you to Tat for advising us, as we wrangled our interests into an exciting project.

Thank you to the bodegas for hosting us and sharing an inside look at their methods.

And finally, thank you to everyone, instructors, friends, and family, who listened to us, encouraged us, and offered guidance.

Cheers!

ANDELUNA

Valle de Uco, Mendoza

AMALAYA

Cafayate, Salta

PROJECT SUMMARY

Argentina’s wine history spans centuries, deeply intertwined with the country’s battles with colonialism, economic uncertainty, globalization, and climate change. A country rich and diverse in culture and landscapes hosts an equally rich and diverse collection of wine-producing regions. Pairing the Paisajes challenges the traditional, arguably simplistic, definition of terroir, proposing a union of landscape and consumption in efforts to consider the complex effects of the colonization, extreme landscapes, transplantation of foreign practices, and economic shifts that have influenced Argentina’s wine-producing regions.

Pairing the Paisajes cuts a longitudinal transect of the country, developed through photographic studies, mapping exercises, field observations, and conversations with locals, winemakers, and laborers in the regions of Salta, Mendoza, and Neuquén.

Despite working toward the common goal of wine production, the cultural significance, commerciality, obstacles, and local identities differ between regions. Neuquén’s youthful vineyards serve as the new frontier for Argentine viticulture, occurring on the heels of growth as climate change pushes vineyards south. Mendoza’s commercialization and global significance hold no strength over the region’s increased issues of water scarcity. Salta’s closely embedded indigenous histories are illustrated in the sights and sounds of the region. Pairing the Paisajes provides deeper profiles of these regions and their terroirs, acknowledging the diverse and rich environments that surround them.

ALPAMANTA

Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza

FAMILIA SCHROEDER

San Patricio del Chañar, Neuquén

Seedlings alongside mature vines at Familia Schroeder winery in San Patricio del Chañar.

Integration of olive trees and grapevines at Bodega Bonfanti in Mendoza, exemplifying their shared role accompanying immigrants to the New World.

BODEGA BONFANTI

Lujan de Cuyo, Mendoza

ALPAMANTA

Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza

Barrels utilized for field preparations as part of the biodynamic process at Alpamanta winery in Mendoza.

CALCHAQUI VALLEYS

Cafayate, Salta

Color and variation of Salta’s Calchaqui Valleys lining the path from Salta Capital to Cafayate.

Recycling sorting facilities at Alpamanta winery in Luján de Cuyo, aligning with the winery’s goals of regeneration and cyclical approach to wine production.

ALPAMANTA

Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza

PENNY WHITE PROJECT FUND

PAIRING THE PAISAJES

Water

and production in an otherwise inhospitable climate.

infrastructure at San Patricio del Chañar’s Bodega Malma, supporting fertility

BODEGA MALMA San Patricio del Chañar, Neuquén

LOCAL CULTURE

Cafayate, Salta

Color and textiles emblematic of the variety, vibrancy, and uniqueness of North-Western Argentine cultures.

PENNY WHITE PROJECT FUND

Localized hydrological infrastructure at Amalaya winery in Cafayete.

AMALAYA

Cafayate, Salta

PENNY WHITE

PROJECT DESCRIPTION

Does colonization have a terroir? Historically, terroir, a French term, has been simply defined as “earth through the view of agriculture.” This is incomplete, ignoring historic and cultural forces that have shaped the earth into its current state. Pairing the Paisajes broadens the definition of terroir to better reflect the lived and embodied reality of agricultural production and understand the impacts that European colonization has on the taste of the planet.

Wine production in Argentina embodies such complication of terroir. Before colonization, no grapes or wine beverages were produced in South America. Wine grapes, Vitis vinifera, were introduced in the sixteenth century by Spanish missionaries. Now, it is inseparable from the national palate.

Before understanding Argentine terroir, it’s important to note that it is a relatively new concept. Historically, only the French had terroir, even though every wine-producing country had soil and agriculture. This changed in 1976, with the Judgement of Paris, a blind tasting competition between Californian and Bordeaux wines. To the shock of the world, the American wines won, proving that good wine was possible around the world in any soil, without the long history of wine production that France boasted of. However, the terroir of wine cannot be reduced to soil in Argentina – the soil had to first be constructed, quite literally. Mendoza, the historic locus of viticulture, is a constructed oasis, a pocket of land made to resemble Italian vineyards in the middle of rocky, dry plains at the base of the Andes. Each wine-region of Argentina has gone through similar modification to generate “unique” terroirs.

Neuquén’s fertile valley along the Rio Negro was expanded with the construction of the Cerros Colorados Dam Complex from 1969 to 1980. Originally home to fruit production, increased irrigation allowed larger-scale viticulture to take hold. In Salta, the highest vineyards in the world rely on reservoirs that capture snow melt from the Andes for irrigation. These manipulations of the land help to explain the differences in wine found in Argentina, but fail to understand the cultures that crafted the taste of the land, of terroir. Viticulture and oenology are complex subjects. More than soil science and irrigation, they encompass histories that span the globe, local reflections, conquest, economics, geography, agriculture, arts, and cuisine. It is a dynamic field because it is the bottling of a

FAMILIA SCHROEDER

San Patricio del Chañar, Neuquén

To understand Argentine wine, Pairing the Paisajes cuts a transect across Argentina from south to north. There are seven wine regions in Argentina, lining the Andes mountains. Three regions were selected to offer the most diverse overview:

Neuquén is in the southernmost wine-producing areas of Argentina, just east of Patagonia. It is one of the youngest but fastest-growing productive regions. The cold weather, low precipitation, and light but constant winds create a harsh growing environment that results in strong fruit. Before wine production scaled up, apples and pears were (and still are) the dominant industry. Canals and dams control water flow and irrigation in the river valley, but just beyond their reach, the landscape is an arid scrub land focused on oil production. The growing wine industry reflects this strange melding of moneyproducing industries - it is focused on producing grapes popular around the world, including Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, with a focus on exporting. In the city of Neuquen, there is little celebration of wine production. If one wasn’t aware it was there, they would never even notice it.

Mendoza is Argentine wine. While not the oldest wine-region in Argentina, it is the most famous internationally. Visitors arriving at the airport are greeted with wine shops and find their cars in lots organized by grape varieties. Mendoza is a desert with limited water supply from the Andes, delivered by canals originally constructed by the Mapuche and Incans. Summers are hot and dry, while winters are relatively mild. Strong winds, known as the Zonda, rise up on the Chilean side of the Andes, deposit snow, then come crashing down over the region, sometimes destroying vines. Indigenous mythologies connect the wind to Pachamama, the earth goddess, protecting nature from human greed. Mendoza’s wine production was heavily influenced by Italian immigrants. Carolina Fuller, head of hospitality shared the common story that “Italians usually came over with one olive branch under one arm and a vine under the other,” bringing their Mediterranean diet to Argentina.1 Many families started large vineyards, where they created blended house wines, successful across the nation. However, in the late twentieth century, economic changes began to impact the wineries. Then, the Judgment of Paris happened, opening up the world of fine wines. This revelation was a revolution in Argentine wine making. Winemakers quickly introduced French techniques to their production and began focusing on single-varietal wines. Argentine Malbec was born, becoming one of the most popular grapes in the world, putting Argentina on the international wine map. 1. Interview with Carolina Fuller

Bodega Salentein

+1,185m

Bodega Malma

+386 m

Bodega Familia Schroeder

+368 m

Furthest north is Salta, where Argentina’s early colonial and national history still feels very much alive in the architecture, dance, art, and cuisine, all strongly influenced by indigenous cultures. Known as “Salta, la Linda” or Salta, the Beautiful, there is great pride and poetry when speaking of the unique land. Historically, Salta was the gateway to Argentina from the Spanish capital of Peru. From Peru, missionaries brought grapes for sacramental wine to convert the indigenous population. Today in Salta, wine is primarily grown in the Calchaqui Valley, centered around the town of Cafayate. Here, the sun shines 340 days a year, its strong rays burning into the high-altitude vineyards (over 2,000 meters above sea level). As it is a valley, it is surrounded by mountains on all sides, creating a very dry desert climate with cool nights. This creates the perfect conditions for Torrontés grapes, which prefer cool nights. Unlike other regions, the parral method of planting (a high pergola), is still commonly used, as it shades the grapes from extreme sun.

Neuquén

Bodega Amalaya

+1,742 m

El Esteco

+1,596 m

Finca La Punilla

+1,547 m

Bodega Andeluna

+1,162 m

Domaine Bousquet

+1,126 m

Bodega Alpamanta

+944 m

Bodega Catena Zapata

+948 m

Bodega Bonfanti

+922 m

Salta Mendoza

While each region is a distinct collage of geology, hydrology, colonial and indigenous histories, ecology, and climate, they all produce wine in a fairly standard way. This influence comes from the French, who originated the term terroir, which Argentina adopted with gusto. In each region, we visited at least two bodegas. Although they all differ, there was a typical script followed in a visit. Most began in or looking over the vineyards. Rows of vines encircle each bodega, reinforced with irrigation lines or ditches. We learned harvesting methods (hand or machine), how different climates required different planting methods (parral or cordon-espalier), and different approaches to cultivating the best grapes. Some vineyards used modern methods, some required using traditional Argentina methods due to their old vines, and some were biodynamic, a modern approach to agro-ecology. Our guides explained how the viticulture would be expressed through the winemaking process.

Fermentation transforms the grape from an agricultural product into wine. The chemical process is universal, but not winemakers’ approaches. Culture influences the process. Most vineyards today ferment in giant stainless steel tanks, a technique borrowed from the French in the 1980s. These tanks are considered the most efficient way to create a standardized wine - almost all variables are controlled, such as temperature or sanitation. Organic winemakers might use cement tanks, carrying the influence of the land into the bodega. Now, some are going back to older Argentine methods, fermenting in wooden barrels that may or may not be sealed. Many use a combination of all three, assembling different historic practices into one single room.

Aging is what separates wine from other beverages, and what allows winemakers to separate themselves from each other. Some use American oak, others French, or even Austrian. A barrel is a cultural artifact, representing the taste the winemakers strive for, contributing taste a grapevine and soil would never achieve on their own. The best wines of the bodega age for up to two years in a single barrel, resulting in a wine that is as much flavored by oak as it is by grapes.

Wine tastings are an art form, codified by the Court of Master Sommeliers. When tasting, one considers the color, smell, and taste of wine to identify the grape variety, location, and even production year. Pairing the Paisajes understands that this examination of the wine reveals a much broader landscape hidden in the glass.

As explained by Sandy Ortiz at Bodega Salentein, there are three aromas to search for in wine, each revealing a landscape the wine passed through. The primary aroma comes from the genetics of the grape itself. These scents recall fruits, flowers, and herbs. For example, Malbec typically smells of plum and blackberries, while Merlot features strawberries. The expression of the primary aroma is modified by the soil the wine is grown in, the climate that year, and how much water the plant received. The secondary aroma originates in the fermentation tanks. Chemical changes are occurring in the wine. These changes are similar to the difference between milk and butter. Fuller flavors arise during the processing, often similar to bread or yeast. This is where the alcohol content of wine arises. Aging produces the final aromas. The flavor of the forest is mixed in. Oak transfers its tannins to bring notes of spiciness, smokiness, chocolate, caramel, etc. The toasting of the barrel interior is what allows the flavors to transfer between the two landscapes. The ideal wine balances all three aromas, perfectly capturing the landscapes in a single sip.

Tastings lead to pairings. Wines are considered to have a typicity, or an expectation of qualities based on the type of grape. Each wine type has a typical set of characteristics. Because of this, traditionally, certain wines go with certain dishes to compose a complete flavor. Pairing the Paisajes plays with this method, teasing out all the flavors of wine, pairing them back to the cultural landscapes of Argentina. Malbec today is only possible because it is intimately linked to the Incan canals of Mendoza, built by a people who never cultivated wine themselves. Water is appropriated collectively by the Obras Sanitarias Mendoza, connecting each winery to each other’s successful harvests. Snow melt from the Andes flows not into canals, but reservoirs in Salta, relieving bodegas from sharing the resource. Salta’s

sunshine forces it to pair with older vine systems that protect the grapes from overexposure, while also creating a historic pastiche.

In all cases, these pairings show how the glass of wine connects back to a broader, entangled landscape. Following one thread begins to reveal the entire world. Wine is not an ahistorical beverage, but one that can only be tasted in relation to its cultural, historic, agricultural and globalized origins. It is a designed system, from the landscape architecture of the bodega in the vineyard to the place setting of a formal tasting. Wine becomes a medium through which we reflect on the layering of geographies, empires, agriculture, ecologies, and cultural exchanges. Terroir is constructed and reconstructed with each vineyard planted, each grape harvested, each barrel aged, and each sip taken.

and flavors of barrels are transferred. Notes of smoke, spice, chocolate, and caramels emerge from the wood.

Chemical changes, originating in the fermentation tanks, bringing forward the alcohol.

or yeast.

Tannins

Fullness, similar to bread

PRODUCTIVE LANDSCAPE

AGED LANDSCAPE

Soils in which it is grown, climate, and irrigation.

PHYSICAL LANDSCAPE

fruity, and herbal notes. SIGHT SMELL

PROJECT SCHEDULE

Pairing the Paisajes began with the desire to understand how to understand terroir. Research quickly complicated the question.

During our planning phase, we outlined the route for tasting the wine landscapes of Argentina. We organized it from south to north so each region was visited before it was too cold for tours (it was late fall in Argentina). We contacted Fabricio Portelli, a wine journalist and sommelier based in Buenos Aires, to begin our selection of vineyards to visit. He helped us to narrow down a list of interesting vineyards to visit, either due to their history or unique wines.

Our faculty advisor, Montserrat Bonvehi Rosich, was crucial in helping us plan our field work. We met with her throughout the semester to review resources and techniques. Based on her previous experience, she advised us to gather as much information as possible in a standard way. We planned on taking specific photos of each bodega visited (such as a close-up of a vine, an architectural shot of the bodega building, drone footage), recording each tour, and gathering samples of the landscape, such as soil rubbings, that we would be able to take home.

To bookend our trip, we stayed with the Rocio Alonso’s family in Buenos Aires. This offered us the chance to more easily communicate with contacts in Argentina and finalize our plans locally. In addition, we were able to learn more about Argentine culture(s), many of which can be found in the capital. We visited museums, cultural centers, and local institutions. With the Alonso/Agrelo family, we understood how citizens understand the landscape of the country and the culture of wine.

NEUQUÉN

Neuquén was the first region visited. Research included visiting vineyards, exploring by car, and visits of local musuems. Wine did not play any major role in the economy or agriculture until the turn of the twenty-first century, but it’s roots could be found in the history of canal construction and fruit production.

Friday, May 19

Wednesday, May 17

On our drive to Bodega Malma, we passed through the many landscape of Neuquén, from desertlike scrub land to the lush river valley. Bodega Malma sits near the edge of the river valley, receiving water through the extensive canal system we viewed. At the Bodega, we had our first introduction to the standard process of wine production, from harvesting to fermentation, aging, and tasting.

Thursday, May 18

At Bodega Familia Schoeder, we were introduced to larger influences on terroir. The Bodgea is built upon the site of dinosaur fossils, relating it to the oil production found outside the river valley. We began to see similarities between different bodega and understand how each tries to differentiate itself.

In the city of Neuquén, we visited different cultural institutions in the Parque Central that reflect local history. The Museo Gregorio Alvarez chronicles two different timelines: one composed of artifacts of precolonial peoples, and one of local objects and photos from the past two centuries. At the Museo Paraje Confluencia, we learned more about the civic history and founding of Neuquen and what role it has played in the larger story of Argentina. Neither reflected much on wine in the region, as it is a newer product. However, it has always been home to a variety of agricultural products due to its fertile soil, navigable rivers, and ideal climate, especially for fruit orchards.

MENDOZA

Mendoza is the historic locus of Argentine wine production. We continued to visit vineyards, many with much more extensive tours. At the Catena Institute, we met with scientists focused on vineyard research and learned how soil, grapes, water, and history are studied in relation to wine production. We even tasted batches from experimental plots to understand how slight differences in soil composition, minerals, and rock can drastically shift the taste of wine. At Bodega Alpamanta, we had our most extensive tour of a vineyard, where we learned the steps of the biodynamic process of growing wine.

Monday, May 22

At the Catena Institute of Bodega Catena Zapata, we met with Guillermina van Houten, viticulture specialist, for an in depth tour of wine-making caves, tanks, review of vineyards, experimental wine tasting, and discussion with Belen Ureta, sustainable initiative specialist.

In the afternoon, we visited Bodega Bonfanti, a small winery that intercrops olive trees in the vineyard and produces olive oil, reflecting early Italian influences on the region.

Sunday, May 21

Mendoza is a center of wine tourism. To understand how wine is presented to tourists, we took the Bus Vitivinicola to visit three different bodegas with larger groups. We visited:

Bodega Andeluna, where we learned of more novel interpretations of grapes, such as making a white malbec. While here, the weather began to change from a calm sunny morning to a windy day, due to the Vieto Zonda (Winds from the Andes)

Domaine Bosquet, an organic winery. Here, we learned about less common fermentation techniques, such as cement. Many techniques used at Domaine Bosquet would be seen later at other bodegas that create organic wines.

Bodega Salentein, an expanded vineyard that includes an art gallery, production building, and other hospitality centers.

Tuesday, May 23

During our tour of Bodega Alpamanta, we learned about biodyanmic wine production, which operates as a full ecology, integrating farm animals, native plants, different compost mixes, and material reuse.

SALTA

Salta is a unique region in Argentina, still significantly influenced by indigenous cultures and early colonial history. The region is very rural, requiring long drives through mountainous regions and a more exposed climate. The wine regions of Salta are further south, in the Calachqui valley. In Salta, we learned about extreme high-altitude wines, grown over 1,800 m above sea level, the early colonial history of wine, and the indigenous influences on Saltan and Argentine cultures.

Friday, May 26

At Bodega Amalaya, we learned how newer wine producers are adjusting to the region. Amalya was opened in 2010, focusing on wines that reflect the Salta regions. They grow grapes in a variety of micro-climates, including high altitudes.

Saturday, May 27

Wednesday, May 24

To travel to Cafayate involves a long drive from Salta (capital) through the Andes. There is a gradual transition from a green, heavily vegetated region, to forested mountains, to a desert-like range of bare red rocks. Water runs through the valleys, creating bursts of fertile regions. Cafayate is where the valleys open into a relatively vegetated zone, ideal for viticulture.

In Cafayate, we stayed at La Casa de La Bodega, a traditional estate that includes small-scale wine production, similar to what was established by early colonists and missionaries in the region.

Thursday, May 25 (Veintecinco de Mayo / National Day)

On Argentina’s National Day, we visited the Museo de la Vid y el Vino to learn about the history, ecology, and production of wine in Salta, and Argentina more broadly. At the museum, we were introduced to Torrontes wine, a varietal popular in the region.

In the afternoon, we visited Bodega El Esteco, one of the oldest vineyards in Argentina. We were introduced to how extreme altitude is expressed in wine and the requirements to grow grapes that are so exposed. We viewed parral vines, grown in response to the constant and strong sunlight. At our hotel, we toured the small wine operation, Finca de la Punilla, where we saw the processing lab and were able to smell samples of un-aged wine and in-process wine.

After returning to Salta Capital, we explored the regional culture further. We visited the Museo de Arquelogía de Alta Montaña (museum of high altitude archeology) to learn more about the Incan culture in the region. Before Spain colonized most of South America, the Incan empire spanned the continent. At the Cabildo Histórico (Museum of the History of the North), colonial artifacts told the story of local life, focusing on how settlers and later citizens, created a culture that fused local materials, indigenous cultures, and Spanish influence into the unique Saltan life today. In the evening, we attended a Ballet Folklorico, a local dance performance.

LEARNING OUTCOMES

PREPARATION OF FIELD WORK

In order to capture a wide perspective of each region, target interviews were established for individuals both directly and tangentially related to wine production. Targeted individuals were those involved in landscape management, tourism, neighboring cultural institutions, and wine elaboration, with the belief that these broad connections to wine production would provide a holistic picture of each region.

In Mendoza, a relevant interview included speaking with individuals from the Catena Institute of Wine, a research institute established by Laura Catena of Catena Zapata. The Catena Institute works in coordination with Catena Zapata winery on research to improve and advance knowledge of wine for the industry as a whole. The purpose of engaging the Catena Institute in Pairing the Paisajes was to gain an understanding of broad ongoing conversations and research surrounding terroir, climate change, and culture.

PREPARATION OF QUESTIONS

Questions were tailored to individuals involved in both the labor of wine production and the experience of wine consumption. Questions ranged from the day-to-day labor itself, the personal connections to the consumption and production of wine, to ultimately larger regional questions surrounding climate change and relevant adaptation measures. The goal of these questions was to gain a local perspective of each region from a range of laborers, not only those directly tied to wine production.

A derivative of the following questions was posed to local laborers:

• Can you describe your work? What are your daily tasks, what are seasonal tasks, etc?

• How do you think your work influences the terroir of a wine?

• What culture(s) of wine are you involved in?

• How/when do you drink wine? What rituals do you participate in? What do you drink wine with?

• Are there any specific communal celebrations or rituals the bodega participates in?

• Your history with wine (was your family involved? Did you grow up in a culture of wine?)

• What guiding principles do you follow for growing grapes/ producing wine?

• What modern landscape practices are you incorporating into wine production? What horticulture, what agricultural practices? How do you modify the land you work on?

• Where are the edges of the relevant landscape for your wine production?

• What impacts have you felt from climate change on wine production? How are you adapting your practices?

EXPECTATIONS

When identifying the Argentine wine-producing regions to study, Neuquén, Salta, and Mendoza were selected for their individual characteristics. The three regions form a transect of the country, spanning the length of Argentina’s Ruta del Vino. Mendoza was selected to function as a sort of control point, being the stronghold of Argentine viticulture and a major connection to the global industry. Mendoza’s deep-rooted history of immigration and viticultural identity functioned as a point of comparison, appropriately falling in what is essentially the midpoint of the longitudinal section of the proposed study. There is more information readily available on Mendoza, as it is one of the most important wine regions in South America, on par with Napa Valley in the United States. Salta and Neuquén functioned more so as outliers. It was the belief that Salta’s global record-breaking altitudes and rich indigenous histories rivaled Neuquén’s distance from the Andes and unique irrigation techniques in regard to providing a landscape for viticulture unlike any other in Argentina, particularly those found in Mendoza.

OUTCOMES

Through the conversations and field observations made in the three regions of study Pairing the Paisajes has crafted detailed profiles outlining the particular history, climate, culture, neighboring ecologies, pressing issues, and proposed pairings for each region.

To illustrate this broadened concept of terroir, a series of collages were created for each region.

CATENA ZAPATA

Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza

ALPAMANTA

Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza

DESCRIPTION

San Patricio Del Chañar sits 30 miles North of Neuquén city center. Wine production in the region is detached from the identity of the province’s capital, whose predominant industry is oil and gas. Being Neuquén’s only major wine-producing region and a young one at that, the story for San Patricio del Chañar continues to unfold. The small town of roughly 5,000 inhabitants is home to three major wineries, Bodega Familia Schroeder, Bodega Malma, and Bodega del Fin del Mundo, among several boutique wineries. Despite its small beginnings, San Patricio Del Chañar’s modern embrace of viticulture lends centuries of experience and refinement, making its growth rapid and informed.

HISTORY

San Patricio del Chañar dates its development to Roberto Gasparri, an Italian immigrant who dared to purchase 20,000 hectares of land that others believed was incapable of growth. Following Gasparri’s revolutionary inversion into the desolate lands, the growth of stone fruit took over, with the region becoming one the largest fruit exporters in Argentina. Thanks to the success of the industry, Gasparri made significant contributions to the foundation of the town of San Patricio del Chañar, namely donating 120 hectares that began its eventual development. The town was officially founded on May 21,1973. Around the same time, the construction of the Ingeniero Ballester Dam was largely influential to the region and water management increasing capacity for irrigation and allowing for the growth of agriculture.

The town pays homage to the merging of immigrant and indigenous communities in the region, named San Patricio after the patron saint of the Italian town of Campo Filone, from which the Gasparri family emigrated, and Chañar, as a derivative of the Quechuan word “chical,” in reference to a thorned tree local to the region.

While the neighboring wine-producing region of Rio Negro can trace back early plantings to the late 19th century, major wine production took longer to arrive. In fact, San Patricio Del Chañar’s wine history is in its

infancy in comparison to the rest of Argentina, with the region’s beginnings dating back to the 1990s.

The oil and gas industry is a major variable in the founding and future growth of the region. San Patricio del Chañar’s viticultural growth can be attributed to the early 2000s, when the Provincial Government of Neuquén dedicated financial revenue from the region’s booming petroleum industry to develop a local wine industry from the ground up. Despite the industry’s aid in establishing the region as a relevant viticultural landscape, its variability have impacted the labor force. The Vaca Muerta Formation, located Northwest of San Patricio del Chañar hosts a major oil and gas deposit, generating substantial revenue from the region while simultaneously attracting the labor force for local industries, including that of viticulture. Due to this, the relations between the petroleum industry and viticulture are in essence hot and cold.

CLIMATE

Contrary to the commonly held idea of the Argentine Patagonia, San Patricio del Chañar is located far from the feet of the Patagonian Andes. In fact, the Patagonian wine country of Neuquén is unique in its more level, desert climate, primarily made up of intense winds. Annual rainfall in the region averages 140mm. The cool, dry climate of San Patricio del Chañar accompanies intense winds and dramatically fluctuating temperatures from day to night, while the dry air aids the region in pest management.

These unique climactic conditions are illustrated in the vines themselves as the grapes are forced to develop thick skins as protection from the harsh winds, yielding more concentrated color and structure. The low rainfall provides the vines with large amounts of sunlight, producing high phenolic concentrations, while the fluctuating temperatures promote acidity.

CULTURE

The vineyards of San Patricio del Chañar are not only recognized for their innovative wine production

BODEGA MALMA

San Patricio del Chañar, Neuquén

but also for paleontologcal significance, with Familia Schroeder at the forefront. As the winery was under development and at the beginning of its construction, fossilized remains of a herbivorous dinosaur, a Titansaurus, were found in the excavation, a coincidental nod to the region’s ample prehistoric histories embedded into its soils.

San Patricio del Chañar’s local festivities are testament to the main agricultural industry of the region, the stone fruit. The Provincial Nectarine Festival occurs annually in February, crowning the Queen of Nectarine alongside local folklore music and regional art.

NEIGHBORING ECOLOGIES

The region is characterized by the growth of apples and pears, the predominant industry exceeding that of local viticulture. The green, fertile valley in which San Patricio del Chañar resides holds a distinct and notable transition to the desert landscape surrounding it. As the landscape transitions away from the canal system, the gradient of fertility and green fades away. Beyond the canals, the region is much more desert-like, where no trees grow and low plants grow with limited water.

OBSTACLES AND PRESSING ISSUES

Vineyards in San Patricio del Chañar face the intense Patagonian winds, enhancing the heartiness of the region’s vines while threatening damage during the bud break. Vineyards in the region have adapted their practices and construction in response to the harsh winds, planting protective trees alongside the vines and locating drip irrigation pipes near the soil to avoid water being blown away. This historic irrigation technique has been reintroduced into Neuquén’s vineyards, a testament to the trial and error that have preceded the region.

Being a young region, San Patricio del Chañar’s wine tourism is still in its infancy, particularly that targeting international, non-Spanish speaking tourists. Due to the isolation from the major city center, the primary workforce is local to the town of San Patricio del Chañar to ensure reliability. The population of San Patricio del Chañar is limited in its bilingual and Englishspeaking population, resulting in the tourism currently being provided solely in Spanish. As the local industry

and tourism continue to grow, accessibility in tourism is intended to broaden.

PREDOMINANT VARIETAL

While a range of varietals, including Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Merlot, Malbec, and Sauvignon Blanc, are accessible and commercialized in Neuquén, Pinot Noir is the predominant varietal for the region, with Patagonian Pinot Noir having slightly darker color and bolder flavors than usual due to the unique thickness in the grape skin. Compared to other grapes Argentina is known for, Pinot Noir is a cold-weather grape, giving it an advantage in the southern region

Neuquén’s wine production is also accompanied by a fairly significant production of sparkling wines, more so than Mendoza and Salta. Sparkling wines in the region are typically produced utilizing Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Torrontes grapes.

SOIL

The landscape of San Patricio del Chañar is predominantly made up of sandy brush, the concentration of vineyards, and neighboring agriculture occurring in an oasis, a green belt along the rivers and irrigation channels. The soils are predominantly sandy and alluvial, with low soil fertility, which is actually ideal for wine production.

PROPOSED PAIRINGS

Historical: Paleontological significance, oil and intangible riches.

Current: Nouveau riche, a desire to fit in, be revered and acknowledged as competitors to other top wineproducing regions.

Future: Pressure and dependency as climate change begins to render northern regions less fruitful.

FAMILIA SCHROEDER San Patricio del Chañar, Neuquén

MENDOZA

DESCRIPTION

Sitting at the foothills of the Andes mountains, the wine country of Mendoza is removed from the Mendoza city proper and organized into a series of geographic indications or departments– Eastern Mendoza, Luján de Cuyo, Maipú, and the Uco Valley. This designation of geographic indications can be traced back to the 16th and 17th centuries in Mendoza’s earliest Jesuit monasteries.

Unlike Neuquén and Salta, whose vineyards reside within a more concentrated area, Mendoza’s departments greatly range in altitude, climatic conditions, and soils. The varied and extensive conditions of Mendoza’s wineproducing regions yield varied approaches to growth and landscape management.

Mendoza’s success in viticulture and high-quality wine production has placed the region in the upper echelons of global wine producers, establishing the region as THE icon for Argentine viticulture.

HISTORY

Prior to the Spanish colonization of Mendoza province, the Huarpe peoples claimed the territory, establishing a network of kilometer-long canals from the Andes to the Mendozan valleys transporting snow melt from the upper Andes to support the cultivation of corn and potatoes. This network of canals was ultimately expanded, including the infrastructure of ditches, or acequias, that line Mendozan cities, along with the trees and vegetation that they support.

Mendoza’s colonial histories are largely linked to the Spanish-Chilean econmenderos, or colonists exchanging land rights for taxes. These individuals held rule over Mendoza’s landscapes from Chile for roughly 216 years under the Capitancy of Chile. Mendoza’s capital was founded in 1561, with the earliest documentation of Mendoza’s vines occurring in 1571. Mendoza’s vineyards produced wines primarily for religious practices, with growth of the industry occurring rapidly. In 1595 the Spanish King attempted to halt production in the region for fear of the region out-competing Spanish wine production. This attempt subsequently resulted in

the growth in popularity and production of the Criolla grape that continues into the present day. The following centuries Mendoza grew recognition for its wine production, cementing the Cuyo region in an identity of wine production by the early 17th century.

Mendoza’s population boomed following the 1882 construction of the Mendoza-Buenos Aires railroad, establishing Mendoza as the major Argentine agricultural supplier of Buenos Aires and beyond. In this growth, an influx of European immigrants, primarily Spanish and Italian, occurred, ultimately forming the immigrant-heavy population that continues to exist. The population of the Province of Mendoza continued to grow, with presentday population sitting at just over 2,000,000. The mass migration from Europe to Argentina was accompanied by agriculture, and subsequently a tradition of wine consumption.

Mendoza’s status in global wine production was largely influenced by winery Catena Zapata’s own Nicolas Catena, whose goal became to elevate Argentine wine to the status of other global labels. Embodying the quintessential immigrant family in Argentine viticulture, economist, Nicolas Catena began fighting to increase Argentine wine recognition in 1980. He was greatly influenced by the judgment of Paris and the growth of Napa Valley’s wine industry. After consulting with top global winemakers in California and extensively studying Mendoza’s soils and climates, Catena concluded that higher altitude conditions would provide cooler temperatures necessary to allow their grapes to grow and ripen more slowly, producing high quality grapes, similar to much of the world’s most-renowned regions. Coincidentally, the desired conditions were present in the Catena family’s abandoned vineyards in the San Carlos region of the Southern Uco Valley, sparking the family’s triumphant return to the region in 1990. Other winemakers of the region followed suit, ultimately establishing the Uco Valley as the premier region within Mendoza for wine production. Catena Zapata continues to be highly regarded globally, continuously advancing research on wine production through their research component the Catena Wine Institute.

ANDELUNA

Valle de Uco, Mendoza

MENDOZA

CLIMATE

Overall, Mendoza’s climate, along with other Argentine wine regions, is generally dry, hosting a range of wine-producing zones, generating a series of microclimates. General characteristics, such as aridness, are found in the various locations, but host nuanced climates, including differences in average daily temperature, day-to-night temperature differentials, and types of precipitation. Uco Valley’s vineyards grapple with more extreme day-to-night temperature differentials due to their altitude, while Eastern Mendoza’s climate poses greater risk for damaging hailstorms. Luján de Cuyo and Maipú’s vineyards lie in a region with greater daytime temperatures than Uco Valley, but lack the richness the higher altitude conditions provide. Regionally, these varied climactic conditions have created a hierarchy in the quality of wines and their origin, with a general understanding that the Uco Valley produces Mendoza’s highest quality wines, credited to the unique conditions of cooler temperatures, extreme night-day thermal amplitude, and soils.

Mendoza hosts a variety of landscape practices, largely driven by the varied climates of the region. Eastern Mendoza’s lower-altitude vineyards fall in a region characterized by higher temperatures than those found in the Uco Valley. In order to reduce exacerbated issues regarding temperature, the parral, or pergola system is largely utilized to provide a leaf canopy for the grapes. The parrals are roughly 6 feet tall, elevating the grapes providing protection from pests, humidity, and frost.

Water from the peaks of the Andes is the sole water source for Mendoza, resulting in a regional issue of water scarcity. In fact, vineyards outright do not own ground water, rather the local Department of Irrigation regulates water distribution, delivering water through the canal system once a week. Most vineyards store water in reservoirs, strategically utilizing their water supply.

Mendoza’s dry climate creates unique weather patterns resulting in greater likelihood for hailstorms than other regions. As humid clouds reach Mendoza’s cold dry fronts, hail production is heightened. The dryness and low temperatures that produce the ideal conditions for viticulture are the variables that ultimately pose this greater threat to the region.

CULTURE

The cultural identity of Mendoza IS the region’s viticulture, characterized by local celebrations accompanying the local grape harvest and the region’s wine production. La Fiesta de la Vendimia, with its beginnings dating to 1913, marries the harvest with folklore shows and pageants, ultimately naming an annual Queen of the Harvest. Consumption and status of the region’s wines are also celebrated in the annual Masters of Food and Wine, occurring every February.

Mendoza’s regional gastronomy largely accompanies its viticulture, with many vineyards incorporating restaurants within the winery itself to exhibit their wines alongside curated dishes. A common tradition in Mendoza, alongside all of Argentina, is the asado, an Argentine barbeque. A traditional asado is typically composed of a wide variety of cuts of meat cooked with minimal seasoning, salt only, over a fire. Of course, asados often are accompanied by local, Mendozan wines.

NEIGHBORING ECOLOGIES

Mendoza’s viticulture is deeply intertwined with olive groves, calling back to the region’s immigrant history. This relationship is exemplified by the small family-run winery in Lujan de Cuyo, Bonfanti, whose olive trees activate the vineyard landscape, being regularly spaced between the rows of vines. Mendoza’s early European immigrants emerged with vines and olive branches in hopes to find success in the region with one of the two crops. The pairing ultimately balanced the region’s seasonality with the grape harvest accompanying colder weather while the olives were harvested under warmer conditions.

Other, less predominant, crops in the region include peaches, apples, walnuts, almonds, quince, corn, lettuce, cabbage, cauliflower, and tomatoes, fueling the region’s rich and demandant gastronomy.

CATENA ZAPATA

Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza

MENDOZA

PREDOMINANT VARIETAL

Mendoza hosts a multitude of varietals, the most internationally recognized and celebrated being the Malbec. Malbec can be considered a fellow immigrant to Argentina, despite the widespread belief that it is a native varietal. Malbec’s success in Argentina is largely attributed to the adaptation to Mendoza’s lengthy growing season and arid climate. In fact, it is that very climate that lent Argentine Malbec to avoid the detrimental impacts of the phylloxera epidemic, inhibiting the propagation of phylloxera while European vineyards suffered.

In addition to the independent varietals, a wild grapevine propagated through seeds, known as “Criolla” exists in Mendoza. Being less controlled and regulated, Criolla wines evolved to be utilized in the local production of more inexpensive rosé. Criolla wine continues to hold a presence in present-day Argentine table wine.

OBSTACLES AND PRESSING ISSUES

Despite the region’s commercial success and global status among major producers of high-end wine, issues of water scarcity have limited the region’s growth and expansion of its viticulture. Due to the limitations on water, Mendoza has currently reached its cap in vineyard development, making the existing viticulture of the region all that it can rely on. In addition, climate change has placed immense pressures on the existing viticulture, creating variability in the previously consistent climates that had established the region as a major global wineproducer.

While more limited in many parts of the region, hail poses a threat to vineyards in Mendoza, driving the embrace of protective Kevlar netting in efforts to prevent detrimental losses and impacts to the vines.

Mendoza, along with the regions of San Juan, La Rioja, and northern Neuquén, can suffer the effects of the Zonda wind in fall, winter, and early spring. This wind, characterized by it’s dry heat, originates in Pacific ascending the Chilean side the Andes before making it’s way over and down into the Argentine landscape.

SOIL

Mendoza’s soils are generally rocky, dry and alluvial, providing uniquely favorous conditions for viticulture. Due to the dry conditions, clay, limestone, and sand mix to create heterogeneous soils. Much like its climate, Mendoza’s soils still do generally vary among the region. The Uco Valley is composed of primarily low fertility soils as opposed to those of Eastern Mendoza. Viticulture in the Uco Valley has used this low fertility to its advantage.

PROPOSED PAIRINGS

Historical: Drive and motivation, resourcefulness and hopes to succeed in the New World.

Current: Claustrophobia, a desire to grow but no room to do so.

Future: Anxiety, uncertainty over the region’s ability to meet demand while combating a changing climate. What will the identity become if vineyards are forced to move South for a more favorable climate?

ALPAMANTA

Lujan de Cuyo, Mendoza

DESCRIPTION

Nestled in the Calchaqui valley, 300 kilometers south of Salta Capital, the town of Cafayate is home to a high-altitude oasis of celebrated viticulture stretching from the Ruins of Quilmes to the Sierras of the Aconquijas. Distinct, varied, and vibrant landscapes envelope the journey to Cafayate, culminating in the Saltean wine capital sitting at 1,824 meters above sea level. Cafayate exists almost independent of the rest of the region, protected and barricaded by its mountainous surroundings and limited points of access.

In addition to the major wine-producing presence of Cafayate, the smaller towns of the Calchaqui Valleys enrich the industry whilst preserving a time machine into the region’s past. The towns of Molinos and Colomé host traditional adobe and mud construction in addition to high-altitude wine production.

Salta’s spirit and character is almost mythical, relying on urban legends and tales as major points of conversation and preservation.

HISTORY

Salta’s indigenous history dates back centuries with the Incans arriving in Cafayate in the 1480’s. Spanish colonists followed in 1535, driving a decade-long battle for the region between the indigenous peoples and colonizers. The name Calchaqui resembles this resistance, “calcha” meaning rebel and “qui” the very, or the valleys of the very rebellious.

The town of Colomé’s high end wine-production is relatively younger than Cafayate’s, established as a super-power in the region thanks to Swiss engineer, Donald Hess, and his wife, Ursula. The remote winery’s growth was not only productive for the industry, but in addition fruitful for the local economy and standard of living. As part of improving the conditions and facilities of the winery, investments were made by the Hess’ in the local community through a hotel school and elementary school, providing employment and refuge to an otherwise struggling community. An investment that was not short of a hefty price tag, $1.2 million to be exact, resulted in

unique and highly regarded wines representative of an equally unique location.

CLIMATE

The town of Cafayate sits in the Calchaqui Valley, surrounded by mountains that provide shade in its cool, dry high altitude desert valley condition. Despite being in a northern latitude of that of Mendoza, the altitude of Cafayate’s vineyards provides similar temperatures. Salta’s limited rainfall is concentrated in the region’s summer months, accompanying intense sun and resulting in intense fruit notes and warm aromas.

The colors and viscosity of Cafayate’s wines are in direct response to its climate, intensifying and deepening the wine’s colors while presenting an almost thick consistency. When you taste the region’s wine, you can practically feel the sun in each sip. These unique characteristics make Saltean wines stand out in comparison to competing regions

CULTURE

Salta’s culture and identity is heavily linked to its relationship with the Andes, embodying the influence of the indigenous histories dating back to the Incan empire. The region’s Northwestern location operates in many ways independently of the rest of Argentina, recognized for its slow and relaxed lifestyles. The region’s vibrant textiles, music, and folkloric dances resemble the equally vibrant surrounding landscapes, illustrating the rich marriage of indigenous histories with the region’s eventual colonization. Sounds of Salta vary between mountain goats, the Andean flute, and the charango, a small five string guitar-like instrument made of wood or the shell of an armadillo.

The taste of Salta goes beyond that of just its wine, as Salta’s food equally resembles the region’s blending of cultures and vibrancy of its peoples. Salta is celebrated for its authentic and unique Native Argentine cuisine of corn, beans, bell peppers, and pumpkin, while still embodying the heavily meat-centric culinary traditions of the rest of Argentina. It is not uncommon to find llama on the menu

EL ESTECO

Cafayate, Salta

SALTA

along with more typical beef.

Salta’s relationship with viticulture goes beyond that of just commerciality, as the region heavily recognizes the spirituality of its landscapes. Grapes were originally grown to produce communion wine for the Jesuit missionaries that Christianized the region.

NEIGHBORING ECOLOGIES

The Saltean landscape is unlike any other wine-producing region of Argentina, rich in color. The Calchaqui valleys house transitioning landscapes, ranging from multi-colored rock formations to red mountains. Mountain goats, cows, donkeys, and llamas line the green valley oasis along Ruta 68 from Salta Capital to Cafayate.

Native cacti growing at high altitude, cardones, are a major presence along the valley, often growing to heights of 2-3 meters and growing for 200-300 years. They are one of the few plants that grow in the drier portions of the valley.

PREDOMINANT VARIETAL

Cafayate’s unique altitude provides favorable conditions for the growth and success of Malbec, similar to that provided by Mendoza’s Uco Valley. Despite this, the predominant varietal of Salta is the Torrontes, aromatic similar to the foods and spices of the region. Torrontes is the only truly native Argentine varietal, entirely independent of its Spanish counterpart. Torrontes is nicknamed “The Liar ‘’ due to its deceptive nature, hinting toward sweetness through its aromas but providing the opposite in taste.

While Cafayate’s Torrontes is highly-regarded, particularly for its very cold nights and very sunny days, only about 1% of Argentina’s Torrontes is grown in Cafayate. The limited Torrontes that is grown in Cafayate is subject to the parral growing method to prevent sunburn.

Cafayate, Cachi, and Salta Capital all celebrate the region’s Torrontes in The Week of the High Altitude Torrontes, paying homage to Saltean culture, in particular

the role of Torrontes.

OBSTACLES AND PRESSING ISSUES

Salta’s wine-producing regions are fruitful in direct result of the unique climate conditions found in the region. While uniquely favorable, the conditions are equally sensitive to a changing climate. As result of cooler harvests, recent conditions have produced lower than usual potential alcohol levels and subsequent subtler, fresher wines. As conditions become less predictable and consistent, Saltean vineyards are forced to adapt harvest techniques in response.

SOIL

Salta’s wine-producing region’s soils are primarily free-draining, sandy loams. The overall dry soil results in overall lower yields in the region. Debates circulate around the most beneficial production of Salta’s Torrontes, particularly in relation to the ideal yields, the argument being that while some believe higher-yielding vines guarantee crispness while lower-yielding vines preserve lower acidity.

PROPOSED PAIRINGS

Historical: Imposter syndrome, early attempts at making the region a “New Spain”, balancing sweet taste that attempts to glaze over a darker history.

Current: Sunburn, the heat is palpable as you can feel the warmth of 340 yearly days of sun in your mouth.

Future: Restlessness, a desire to keep up with the demand and competition of competing regions while finding a manner in which to preserve the historical identity.

AMALAYA

Cafayate, Salta

CONCLUDING THOUGHTS

CATENA ZAPATA’S MALBEC ARGENTINO

Catena Zapata’s Malbec Argentino’s label illustrates the millennia-long journey of the wine encased. Through four women of wine, they are able to narrate the history, culture, biology, ecology, and terroir. As Carolina Fuller of Catena Zapata explained, the first woman is Eleanor of Aquitaine, a French, and English queen, hailing from a family of Malbec vintners. She brought her “black wine” with her and spread the love of Malbec beyond France. The second lady is the immigrant, who came to Argentina, leaving everything she knew. Her atlas represents hope for the future. She carried a vine and an olive branch, bringing the Old World to the New. Third is Phylloxera, a representation of the disease that ravaged the vineyards of Europe in the nineteenth century. After the epidemic, nearly all the Malbec was replaced with Cabernet Sauvignon, altering the palette of French wine forever. But Phylloxera never took hold in Argentina, and Malbec was preserved, ready for a New World Renaissance. This renaissance was led by the last figure, who brought Malbec to Argentina. She is the woman of Catena Zapata. She represents the family and the history and future of the Bodega, where Malbec rose to new heights in the Andes.

Catena Zapata’s understanding and acknowledgment of the journey of viticulture and Malbec to Argentina exemplifies the plurality in agents that make up viticulture, renouncing the limitations and traditions that are best aligned with Old World viticulture. Argentina’s history of viticulture and wine production reveals a much more complex story of transferring and layering multiple influences, species, and people from around the world in specific locales. This is illustrated by the transect we traveled through the country: each region is distinct yet all represent the complicated narratives of Modern Argentina. Malbec specifically is influenced by tradition, emigration, climate, topography, and reinvigoration, all elements driving its trajectory to the present-day position of Malbec. This understanding is not a singular experience of the Argentine Malbec but can instead be the lens through which viticulture, particularly New World viticulture, can be observed and understood worldwide, an acknowledgment of the agents and contexts that influence it. As the world continues to globalize, Argentina can function as a model for this cultural blending, a landscape

that gathers and ferments multiple sources into messy but distinct techniques that come from any place to form a new, specific place. Just as winemakers celebrate their terroirs, Pairing the Paisajes aims to also celebrate the cultural landscapes.

LIMITATIONS OF TERROIR

Pairing the Paisajes supports this holistic understanding by challenging the term “terroir”, commonly utilized to discuss wine and its sensory origins. In studying the regions of Neuquen, Mendoza, and Salta–connections were made between the greater context in which the viticulture of these regions resides, be it ecological, cultural, or historic. The term “terroir” simply is not broad enough, leaving out so much of the richness and nuances of each region. For example, it ignores the pressures of San Patricio del Chañar to keep up with the existing expectations of Argentine wine, the uncertainty of the future of the Uco Valley, and the Andean spirituality embedded in the fertility of Calchaqui Valleys. These all equally influence the taste and experience of drinking wine from each respective region.

EMBRACING VITICONTEXTI

Rather than limiting the observation of wine to the antiquated and restricted understanding of “terroir,”

Pairing the Paisajes proposes a new term altogether. In lieu of limiting the understanding of viticulture to finite terms, this term should instead be equipped for an evolving and adaptive observation of viticulture. This new term should acknowledge the past, represent the active present, and be moldable to the uncertain future. The contexts in which viticulture resides are dynamic and boundless. Pairing the Paisajes proposes the term Viticontexti, drawing upon “vitis,” the Latin term for grapevine, and “contexti” a derivative of context, to describe the agents, conditions, and circumstances from which viticulture, or more specifically, a wine is derived. Viticontexti is not limited to the physical soils, nor the specific histories of a place. Instead, it unifies the ecologies, culture, histories, climate, and practices of a place while leaving space to expand this understanding. The viticontexti of a wine can change every year, whereas terroir is more stagnant. One could say, “The viticontexti of this Mendozan Malbec is influenced by French winemaking techniques.” To put it

simply, viticontexti pairs the paisajes.

VITICONTEXTI IN LANDSCAPE

Similarly, landscape architecture has also been constrained in the past, thought of only as what is drawn in a plan. Just as wine is not simply alcoholic grape juice, landscape architecture is much broader. Designers weave together histories, trends, cultures, plants, climate, and time into new places. Styles vary over time, but landscape architects only work by manipulating single spaces. But what is the product of that reshaping? To compare with viticulture, what is in the glass of wine formed by these landscapes? What do the outcomes of this manipulation taste like?

Looking at wine as a representation of landscape opens up the field to new lines of inquiry - if a glass of wine is a landscape unto itself, where else can we find landscape architecture? The vineyard is a designed site, but so is the fermentation tank or the aging oak cask, intentionally bringing together natural elements to play off and influence each other. All are designed spaces - all are landscape architecture.

Landscape architecture engages some of our senses, but not all. When we sip a glass of Argentine wine in the United States, we taste a landscape, something the discipline rarely designs to allow. If the field learns that taste is equally as important as the other senses in the creation of landscapes, where else can we explore landscape architecture’s influence? Through viticontexti, we discover landscape pervades all corners of life. We are never outside of a landscape and are often connected to multiple. Pairing the Paisajes toasts to this new expansion of landscape architecture and the new pairings it will reveal.

NEUQUÉN

MENDOZA SALTA

FAMILIA SCHROEDER San Patricio del Chañar, Neuquén

CATENA ZAPATA

Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza

PROJECT REFERENCES AND INTERVIEWS

Pairing the Paisajes utilizes several textual references, covering topics ranging from global topics to localized texts. Topics covered include food identity and politics, colonization’s impacts on food production and cuisines, and the development of wine production in Argentina.

Bormia, Eliana, Arquitectura del Paisaje: Bodegas de Mendoza, Buenos Aires: Ediciones Larivière, 2016.

Burrows, Dani & Aaron Cezar, eds, Politics of Food, Berlin: Sternberg Press, 2019.

Catena, Laura. Gold in the Vineyards, Ciudad Autónoma de Buenos Aires: Catapulta, 2019.

Catena, Laura. Vino Argentino: An Insider’s Guide to the Wines and Wine Country of Argentina, San Francisco: Chronicle Books, 2010.

Catena, Laura et al., “The Science Behind Terroir,” (seminar, Catena Wine Institute, Webinar, Nov. 2, 2021).

Catena, Laura & Vigil, Alejandro. Malbec Mon Amour, Ciudad Autónoma de Buenos Aires: Catapulta, 2021.

Catena Zapata. Catenamics, Argentina: Catena Zapata, 2022.

Cooking Sections, The Empire Remains Shop, New York: Columbia University Press, 2018.

Imbert, Dorothée, ed. Food and the City: Histories of Culture and Cultivation, Washington DC: Dumbarton Oaks, 2015.

Lauden, Rachel, Cuisine & Empire: Cooking in World History, London: University of California Press, Ltd., 2013.

Lavaque, Dolores, En La Cima, Salta y Sus Vinos, Ciudad Autónoma de Buenos Aires: The Master Drive Co: 2018.

Mount, Ian. The Vineyard at the End of the World, New York: W.W. Norton & Co., 2012.

Nickles, Jane A., “The Winds of Wine: The Zonda.” Wine, Wit, and Wisdom: The Official Blog of the Society of Wine Educators. Updated May 4, 2013. Accessed July 9, 2023. https:// winewitandwisdomswe.com2013/05/04/ the-winds-of-wine-the-zonda/

Nouzeilles, Gabriela & Graciela Montaldo, eds. The Argentina Reader: History, Culture, Politics, Durham: Duke University Press, 2022.

Parasecoli, Fabio, Gastronativism: Food, Identity Politics, New York: Columbia University Press, 2022.

Pollan, Michael, The Omnivore’s Dilemma: A Natural History of Four Meals, New York: Penguin, 2006.

Robinson, Jancis, ed. The Oxford Companion to Wine, Oxford: Oxford University Press, 1994.

Rude, Emelyn, ed. EATEN, magazine, Issues 1- 15, Winter 2017 - Autumn 2022.

Trubek, Amy B., The Taste of Place: A Cultural Journey into Terroir, London: University of California Press, Ltd., 2006.

Veseth, Mike. Wine Wars II: The Global Battle for the Soul of Wine. Lanham: Rowman & Littlefield, 2022.

A major component of Pairing the Paisajes is centered around the immersive exhibit, organizing the research findings into the understood pairings between history, culture, ecology, and relevant land practices. This immersive experience draws upon the following projects for visual presentation style and curation. The work of Cooking Sections has been especially valuable as they have been exploring the intersection of politics and food through their practice in based in the UK.

Dhanda, Kritika, et al. Uncork: Augmenting the wine tasting experience, Interactive Exhibit of Student Work, Harvard GSD, 2015.

Cooking Sections, Becoming Xerophile, Garden Installation, Sharjah, 2019 ongoing.

Cooking Sections, Climavore, InstallationPerformance, Isle of Skye, Scotland. 2015 ongoing.

Cooking Sections, The Empire Remains Shop, Installation/Performance, London, 2016.

Cooking Sections, Floræ, Experimental Cheese Production, Tyrol, 2019.

Cooking Sections, Losing Cultures, Mixed Media Installation in Le Centre ne Peut Tenir, Group Exhibition, Fondation Galleries Lafayette. 2018

Sansour, Vivien, Palestine Heirloom Seed Library, Art project and seed library, based in Palestine. 2014 ongoing

Sansour, Vivien & Ayed Arafah, The Traveling Kitchen, Art project and social engagement, 2018

During each visit, we received tours and had the chance to ask questions with different staff at the wineries. Interviews with either in Spanish or English and recorded for future reference.

Neuquén

Dalma Toledano, Bodega Malma Guide, tour of winery with authors. May 18, 2023. Recording.

Melina Solange Aravena, Bodega Familia Schroeder Guide. Tour of winery with authors. May 18, 2023. Recording.

Mendoza

Interview with Bodega Andeluna Guide. Tour of winery with authors. May 21, 2023. Recording.

Interview with Domaine Bosquet Guide. Tour of Sala de Tanques. May 21, 2023. Recording.

Sandy Ortiz, Bodega Salentein Guide. Tour of winery with authors. May 21, 2023. Recording.

Carolina Fuller, Head of Hospitality at Catena Zapata. Discussion of bodega history with authors. May 22, 2023. Recording.

Guillermina van Houten, Viticulture Specialist, & Belen Ureta, Sustainable Initiative Specialist. Tour and Interview at Catena Institute. May 22, 2023. Recording

Aldana Bonnano, Bodega Bonfanti Guide. Tour of winery with authors. May 22, 2023. Recording.

Yanina Martina, Bodega Alpamanta Guide. Tour of winery with authors. May 23, 2023.

Salta

Interview with guide at Bodega Finca la Punilla. Tour of wine processing. May 26, 2023. Recording

Interview with guide at Bodega Amalaya. Tour of winery. May 27, 2023. Recording.

BODEGA MALMA

DESCRIPTION

Bodega Malma’s mission is “to take Patagonia to the world as a unique wine producing region.1” Currently, the taste of Patagonia is slightly different from the typical flavors associated with Argentina due to the climate. Bodega Malma grows cold weather grapes, such as Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Compared with other wineries in Argentina, it is a significantly smaller operation. The estate itself covers 5.8 hectares, including the winery, offices, restaurant, and hotel. Although Neuquén wineries are still mostly visited by Argentine tourists, the more modern architecture and luxurious amenities speak to a future international audience. The bodega building was built as a berm due to the high ground water - barrels are stored in the cava, or basement, but needed to remain dry to properly age.

Currently, the winery has a capacity of 1.8 million liters, or 2.4 million bottles of wine, many of which are sold internationally.

HISTORY

Boedga Malma was founded in 2004 by the Viola family. They are one of the first international wineries in the Patagonian region based out of San Patricio del Chañar. The family is advised by enologist Hans Vinding-Diers, who has made wine internationally.

VARIETALS GROWN

Reds:

Whites: Cabernet Sauvignon Chardonnay

Malbec Sauvignon Blanc

Merlot

Pinot Noir

VISIT INFORMATION

Date: May 17, 2023

Temperature: 45° - 67°F

Tour Guide: Dalma Toledano

BASIC INFORMATION

Region: Neuquén

Year Founded: 2004

Climate: Arid Desert, Cold

BODEGA FAMILIA SCHROEDER

DESCRIPTION

Familia Schroeder is one of the larger wine producers in Neuquén, cultivating over 140 hectares. The fields are divided by rows of birch trees, a common spatial arrangement used in Neuquén’s orchards. The bodega building houses all the wine processing, organized vertically to allow gravity to guide the flow from grapes to wine.

VARIETALS GROWN

Reds: Whites:

Cabernet Franc Chardonnay

Cabernet Sauvignon Sauvingnon Blanc

Malbec

Pinot Noir

HISTORY

While the current bodega was not established until 2001, Herman Heinz Theodor Schroeder entered the Pataongian wine business in 1927. His son founded the winery, which is now carried on by the third generation. As the family business pre-dates the construction of the dams in the region, the family worked hard to cultivate the arid landscape. Now, the bodega receives water through canals.

During the construction of the caves, dinosaur bones were discovered on site. The Panamericansaurus schroederi is now an icon of sorts for the winery, lending its name to a line of wine (Saurus). Visitors taste wines in a recreation of the discovery site, next to plaster casts of the bones.

VISIT INFORMATION

Date: May 18, 2023

Temperature: 42° - 70°F

Tour Guide: Melina Solange Aravena

BASIC INFORMATION

Region: Neuquén

Year Founded: 2001

Climate: Arid Desert, Cold, with frequent winds

Merlot

BODEGA ANDELUNA

DESCRIPTION

Bodega Andeluna is based on the belief that terroir is from a mixture of the environment, from soils, flora, fauna, and culture, the “wise” touch of humans over generations. The name “Andeluna” references what the bodega considers its most importance natural influences: The Andes and the Moon.

The bodega is over 80 hectares with vines of different ages. Nearby, there are many other vineyards. Just beyond are the Andes. The Bodega building references historic Spanish architecture. The lower caves feature vaulted arches to hold over 1,000 oak barrels and other aging vessels.

HISTORY

Andeluna was formed when two wine-making families came together: The Rutini family, who already made wines in Mendoza, and the Ward Lay family (of Frito Lay and Pepsi). The current bodega building was constructed in 2005. In 2013, Andeluna was purchased by the Barale Family, who are known for energy companies in Brazil, but are entering the wine business in Argentina.

BASIC INFORMATION

Region: Mendoza

Year Founded: 2003

Climate: Arid Steppe, Cold

VARIETALS GROWN

Reds: Whites:

Cabernet Franc Chardonnay

Cabernet Sauvignon Sauvingnon Blanc

Malbec Semillon

VISIT INFORMATION

Date: May 20, 2023

Temperature: 59° - 64°F, Zonda Winds

Tour Guide: Gaston

Merlot Torrontes

Pinot Noir

BODEGA DOMAINE BOUSQUET

DESCRIPTION

Domaine Bousquet practices organic wine production, which involves no pesticides and herbicides, as well as no addition of sulfites or sugars to wines. The climate of the region allows for relative ease for organic wine production - the fairly constant winds keep pests from settling long and minimizes growth of weeds. The 240 hectare vineyard produces very concentrated wines, but with overall low yields.

HISTORY

The Bousquet family has been producing wine in Carcassone, France, for generations. In 1999, Jean Bousquet visited Argentina and immediately fell in love and decided to open a winery in Mendoza. His daughter and son-in-law eventually joined.

BASIC INFORMATION

Region: Mendoza (Gualtallary Valley, Tupungato)

Year Founded: 2002

Climate: Arid Steppe, Cold

VARIETALS GROWN

Reds: Whites:

Cabernet Franc Chardonnay

Cabernet Sauvignon Pinot Grigio

Malbec Pinot Gris

Merlot Sauvignon Blanc

Pinot Noir Torrontes

VISIT INFORMATION

Date: May 20, 2023

Temperature: 59° - 64°F, Zonda Winds

Tour Guide: Marianela Novello Arranz

BODEGA SALENTEIN

DESCRIPTION

Bodega Salentein features a wide portfolio of wines and more. Beyond their three vineyard sites, totaling XX hectares, they have preserved an additional 49 hectares of land to remain in a natural state and contribute to the terroir of their wines.

The Bodega estate includes a 16-room guesthouse, Espacio Kilka, an art gallery, and a small chapel. Their first building hosts production and tastings.

HISTORY

Dutch winemaker Mijndert Pon began planting vineyards at Salentein in 1996. The name comes from his family, an aristocratic Dutch line. He hired the enologist Jose Galante, who is often considered the father of modern Argentine oenology to lead his operation. They are renown for both their wines and their bodega’s amenities.

BASIC INFORMATION

Region: Mendoza

Year Founded: 1996

Climate: Arid Steppe, Cold

VARIETALS GROWN

Reds: Whites:

Cabernet Franc Chardonnay

Cabernet Sauvignon Sauvignon Blanc

Malbec

Merlot

Pinot Noir

Syrah

Tempranillo

VISIT INFORMATION

Date: May 20, 2023

Temperature: 59° - 64°F, Zonda Winds

Tour Guide: Sandy Ortiz

BODEGA CATENA ZAPATA

DESCRIPTION

Of all the vineyards visited, Catena Zapata could easily be considered the best. One of it’s vineyards, the Adriana, is considered Grande Cru, or a superior vineyard of great growth. The Bodega is headquartered in La Piramide, a pyramidal building that reflects the unique indigenous culture of Argentina. There are six vineyards that comprise Catena Zapata, located across the microregions of Mendoza.

HISTORY

Like many Argentine wine makers, the Catena family originally hailed from Italy. Nicola Catena arrived in the late nineteen century. In 1902, he made his way to Mendoza, where he planted a vineyard that would eventually become Bodega Catena Zapata. His son, Domingo, took over eventually. The Bodega fell on hard times in the 1960’s, which Nicholas Catena was able to help his father Domingo through, as he was studying economics. He eventually took over and remade Catena Zapata into an internationally recognized vineyard through his research in California. The Bodega has always benefited from the diverse interests and educations of the family members. While Nicolas Catena is still leading the Bodega, his daughters Laura and Adrianna are each beginning to leave their impact through the founding of the Catena Institute, blending tradition and research.

BASIC INFORMATION

Region: Mendoza

Year Founded: 1902

Climate: Arid Steppe, Cold

VARIETALS GROWN

Reds: Whites: Malbec Chardonnay

Cabernet Sauvignon Semillon

Cabernet Franc Chenin Blankc

Bonarda

Petit Verdot

VISIT INFORMATION

Date: May 22, 2023

Temperature: 53° - 66°F

Tour Guide: Guillermina Van Houten & Belen Ureta & Carolina Fuller

Our visit at Catena Zapata was to the Catena Institute, a research wing of the bodega. The Institute was founded by Laura Catena to “advance and promote wine knowledge for the benefit of wine technicians and the wine community as a whole.”. Here, we were able to learn about the current research into soils and try wines from their experimental plots, where the soil is meticulously mapped so as to understand how it affects grapes and flavor.

BODEGA BONFANTI

DESCRIPTION

Unlike most other wineries visited, Bodega Bonfanti is unique for its inter-cropping of olive trees, creating a much more varied vineyard experience. The trees and vines are irrigated with a system of channels and gates that direct the flow of water across the 8 hectares. The vines are grown with both the espalier and parral methods. The small vineyard is nestled much closer to town than most others visited, yet is still high in biodiversity, creating a small oasis for birds, small rodents, and other animals. All production is by hand, from harvesting to bottling.

HISTORY

Bonfanti’s history begins back in 1915, when Roberto Bonfanti’s family first began growing grapes. They had just arrived from Italy. In 2004, the current Bodega was constructed, featuring vines started by Roberto’s family. To this day, the bodega is still owned by the family, where Roberto can be found most days.

BASIC INFORMATION

Region: Mendoza

Year Founded: 1915 / 2004

Climate: Arid Steppe, Cold

VARIETALS GROWN

Franc Chardonnay

Cabernet Sauvignon

In addition, Bodega Bonfanti produces olive oil.

VISIT INFORMATION

Date: May 22, 2023

Temperature: 53° - 66°F

Tour Guide: Aldana Bonnano

Reds: Whites:

Cabernet

Malbec

Pinot Noir

BODEGA ALPAMANTA

DESCRIPTION

Alpamanta means “love for the earth,” a major influence in the bio-dynamic approach to the vineyard. The vineyard follows a circular approach: No existing species were removed from the land before vines were planted. Farm animals, including cows, chickens, sheep, and ducks, graze between the rows while leaving the grapes alone. Every year, a mix of compost is created, then buried by each row in cow horns (a bio-dynamic ritual). Similarly, the vineyard integrates a robust recycling program, where all materials used are broken down and re-used or sent to recycling facilities. The wines of Alpamanta are fully organic, with a taste unique for the region.

HISTORY

Alpamanta was established in 2005 by a trio of European winemakers from Austria, Switzerland, and France. This ancestry is reflected in the barrels usedrather than French of American oak, Alpamanta uses Austrian oak to age their wines.

BASIC INFORMATION

Region: Mendoza

Year Founded: 2005

Climate: Arid Steppe, Cold

VARIETALS GROWN

Reds: Whites: Malbec Chardonnay

Merlot Sauvignon Blanc

Cabernet Sauvignon

Cabernet Franc

Petit Verdot Syrah

VISIT INFORMATION

Date: May 23, 2023

Temperature: 53° - 66°F

Tour Guide: Yanina Martina

BODEGA EL ESTECO

DESCRIPTION

El Esteco has some of the highest vineyards in the world, reaching over 2,000 meters above sea level. The vineyards are spread out over a few locations in the region, stretching from Cafayate south into Catamarca. Due to the intense sun, drip irrigation is used, sourced from either snow melt or wells. El Esteco has some of the oldest productive vines in Argentina - some over 80 years old. Their age results in vines much larger and twisted than expected. So as not to shock the old plants, they are still irrigated through the flood method, a much older technique, rarely used today, as it is not as efficient as drip irrigation.

VARIETALS GROWN

Reds: Whites: Bonarda Chardonnay

Cabernet Franc Torrontés

Cabernet Sauvignon

Malbec

Pinot Noir

Syrah

Tannat

HISTORY

Two French brothers, David and Salvador Michel, immigrated to Argentina near the end of the nineteenth century to begin making wine. Unlike most of the Italian immigrants, they chose to move to Salta rather than Mendoza. In 1892, they bought an existing vineyard near the small town of Cafayate, and began expanding. The family played a major role in the popularization of Torrontés outside of Argentina. Many of the buildings used to this day were built during the Bodega’s early expansion, all in a more traditional Spanish Colonial Style.

BASIC INFORMATION

Region: Salta, Calchaqui Valley

Year Founded: 1840

Climate: Arid Desert, Cold

VISIT INFORMATION

Date: May 25, 2023

Temperature: 65° - 81°F

BODEGA FINCA LA PUNILLA

DESCRIPTION

Finca la Punilla sits outside the main wine growing regions of Cafayate. It is nestled along the Río las Conchas, where the valley begins to narrow into a mountainous pass. The bodega is very small, more akin to traditional wine making done by a family with a larger farm or estate. Today, it is a feature of La Casa de la Bodega, a guesthouse for travelers. The wine making areas include a small vineyard, a tank room, an aging cave, a small lab, and a bottling room.

HISTORY

Constructed in 1999, the winery aimed to incorporate culture of the Calcaqui Valleys and wine production of Cafayate with the growing demand for tourism of the region. Visitors to the hotel have an inside experience and visitation of the winery’s laboratory , tasting rooms, barrel room, and wine cellar, culminating with a tasting of the winery’s locally produced wines. Their first wines were tasted in 2006, after years of construction and vine ripening.

BASIC INFORMATION

Region: Salta, Calchaqui Valley

Year Founded: 1999

Climate: Arid Desert, Cold

VARIETALS GROWN

VISIT INFORMATION

Date: May 25, 2023

Temperature: 65° - 81°F

Reds: Whites: Cabarnet Sauvignon Torrontés Malbec

BODEGA AMALAYA

DESCRIPTION

Bodega Amalaya expresses the “high vibrations” of the Calchaquí Valley according to its founders. The winery is located at the foot of the Andes, where snow melt fills a large reservoir used to irrigate the vineyard through smaller channels cut in the ground. Vines are either espalier or parral. Many of their wines are blends, capturing the different ways altitude affects grape varietals.

Common in Salta, Amalaya has a secondary vineyard just outside Cafayate to the south. It is smaller, but offers the opportunity to reflect slight differences in terroir.

HISTORY

In 2010, Larissa and Christoph Ehrbar, of the older Bodega Colomé, took their experience and founded Amalaya. Colomé is high-end winery in Molinos, whereas Amalya offers guests a more affordable, but still wellcrafted, experience in Cafayate. They focused on highaltitude wines and ecological viticulture.

BASIC INFORMATION

Region: Salta, Calchaquí Valley

Year Founded: 2010

Climate: Arid Desert, Cold

VARIETALS GROWN

VISIT INFORMATION

Date: May 26, 2023

Temperature: 62° - 78°F

Tour Guide: Augusto Agüero

Reds:

Whites:

Cabernet Franc Riesling

Cabernet Sauvignon Torrontés

Malbec

Petit Verdot

Syrah

Tannat

Scan to view videos from field observations.