EKKEBUSMATHIS_PORTFOLIO_2024

EKKEBUS DESIGNER ⊹ WORLD BUILDER BODY OF WORK

MATHIS

LOVISA LAGER FOR EKKE F/W ’22 ‘PRESERVATION

SHOT BY WIND KUPH

OLIVIA O’BRIEN FOR EKKE F/W ’21 ‘SELF CARE’ SHOT BY LE3AY

O’BRIEN FOR EKKE F/W ’23 ‘PRESERVATION

FW ’22 ‘PRESERVATION’ CAMPAIGN

HUMIDUM Y UMENS - 10 LOOKS [WOMENSWEAR]

CONCEPT DEVELOPMENT, IDEATION, ART DIRECTION, DESIGN AND CONSTRUCTION OF ALL THE PICTURED LOOKS; THE CREATE A SPACE THAT FEELS LIKE THE END OF TIME

COLLECTION UTILIZES PRIMARILY STRETCH JERSEY + MESH CONSTRUCTION GARMENTS EMULATING THE MATERIALITY OF SCAFFOLDING SYNONYMOUS WITH THE UNIQUE BAMBOO SCAFFOLDING STRUCTURES IN HONG KONG AS WELL AS LEATHER GOODS [SUEDE], OUTERWEAR, AND LINGERIE/SWIMWEAR.

OLIVIA

SHOT BY LE3AY

EKKE

SHOT BY JACK MAFFUCCI

EKKE FW ’22 ‘PRESERVATION' CAMPAIGN SHOT BY JACK MAFFUCCI

HUMIDUM Y UMENS - 10 LOOKS [WOMENSWEAR]

CONCEPT DEVELOPMENT, IDEATION, ART DIRECTION, DESIGN AND CONSTRUCTION OF ALL THE PICTURED LOOKS; THE CREATE A SPACE THAT FEELS LIKE THE END OF TIME

COLLECTION UTILIZES PRIMARILY STRETCH JERSEY + MESH CONSTRUCTION GARMENTS EMULATING THE MATERIALITY OF SCAFFOLDING SYNONYMOUS WITH THE UNIQUE BAMBOO SCAFFOLDING STRUCTURES IN HONG KONG AS WELL AS LEATHER GOODS [SUEDE], OUTERWEAR, AND LINGERIE/SWIMWEAR.

CONTACT:

MATHIS EKKEBUS

EKKEBUSMATHIS@GMAIL.COM

HTTP://EKKE.ME/ +1 (646) 469 1894

EDUCATION:

PARSONS SCHOOL OF DESIGN - NEW YORK FASHION DESIGN - WOMENSWEAR (BFA) - GPA 3.88 [2017-2022] GRADUATED WITH HONORS AND DEPARTMENTAL HONORS

SOUTH ISLAND SCHOOL (ESF), HONG KONG GCSES [TAKEN 05-2015]

INTERNATIONAL BACCALAUREATE DIPLOMA [TAKEN 05-2017] 38 POINTS

• FLUENT IN ENGLISH AND FRENCH

• INTERMEDIATE IN SPANISH AND MANDARIN

CREATIVE SKILLS:

• COMMUNICATION; RESEARCH AND CONCEPT DEVELOPMENT

• CURATORIAL SKILLS AND ART DIRECTION

• STRONG UNDERSTANDING OF NEW SUSTAINABILITY WITHIN FABRIC PRODUCTION; WELL-VERSED UNDERSTANDING OF DIFFERENT FABRICS AND MATERIALS

• SOCIAL IMPACT CONSIDERATION; SIZE INCLUSIVITY

• CLEAR UNDERSTANDING OF ON-SET SKILLS NEEDED FOR SHOOTS AND SHOWS; EFFICIENT TEAM MANAGEMENT, CREATING CALL SHEETS, PRODUCTION DESIGN ARTICULATION, AND MOOD-BOARD DEVELOPMENT

• STRONG, AND UP-TO-DATE UNDERSTANDING OF MANY GLOBAL FASHION BRANDS, TRENDS AND POP CULTURE

• ATTENTION TO DETAIL

• ALTERNATIVE PATTERN-CUTTING/DRAPING METHODS; UP CYCLING AND RE-PATTERNING EXISTING GARMENTS INTO NEW FINISHED PRODUCTS

• WORLD-BUILDING

• STYLING ACROSS WOMENSWEAR AND MENSWEAR; CONFIDENT IN DEVELOPMENTS OF SILHOUETTE/TEXTURE THROUGH THIS PRACTICE

TECHNICAL SKILLS:

• ADOBE CREATIVE SUITE (PHOTOSHOP, ILLUSTRATOR, INDESIGN, LIGHTROOM AND PREMIEREPRO).

• MICROSOFT OFFICE (WORD, EXCEL AND POWERPOINT).

• ADVANCED SKILLS; RHINO CAD SOFTWARE (FOCUSED IN JEWELRY AND HARDWARE DEVELOPMENT).

• GARMENT CONSTRUCTION; WOVEN, JERSEY AND LEATHER GOODS.

• PATTERN-MAKING, DRAPING AND GRADING.

• FASHION ILLUSTRATIONS; HAND/DIGITAL (PROCREATE)

• STRONG COLOR SENSIBILITY - COLOR PALETTE DEVELOPMENT, COLOR MATCHING DYE METHODS.

• LASER CUTTING

• WELDING/METAL-SMITHING

• TECH PACKS, TECHNICAL FLATS AND SPECIFICATIONS FOR FABRICATION OF GARMENTS/ACCESSORIES.

• ENCYCLOPEDIC KNOWLEDGE TO FASHION HISTORY/DESIGNERS, ARTFILM-CULTURE.

• TIME MANAGEMENT

TITLE: ASSISTANT DESIGNER [UNISEX] COMPANY: DION LEE NEW YORK, NY [2022-2023]

• WORKING ALONGSIDE THE DESIGN TEAM IN DEVELOPMENT OF SEASONAL COLLECTIONS - DEVELOPING DESIGN CONCEPTS, ITERATIONS, GARMENT CONSTRUCTION AND FACILITATING IN THE OPERATIONS OF THE COLLECTION FROM START TO FINISH.

• WORKING WITH FACTORIES, FABRIC MILLS ALONGSIDE A FOCUS IN HARDWARE DESIGN DEVELOPMENT, FOCUSED ON CREATING FUTURISTIC ADVANCEMENTS THROUGH EACH GARMENT

• RESEARCH AND CONCEPT DEVELOPMENT

TITLE: DESIGNER ART DIRECTION COMPANY: EKKE NEW YORK, NY [2020-PRESENT]

• FOCUS ON FANTASY, IN CREATING THE ANTHROPOGENIC WORLD OF ‘EKKE’/ DELIVERING SUBVERSIVE, TECHNOLOGICALLY FOCUSED WOMENSWEAR THAT PLAYS WITH PROPORTION AND BODY AS SILHOUETTE - FAMILIARIZING MYSELF WITH BRANDING, BRAND EVOLUTION AND CONTENT CREATION TO PROMOTE THE COLLECTIONS.

• WORKING CLOSELY WITH FACTORIES, PATTERN-MAKERS, PRINT COLLABORATORS AND OTHERS IN DEVELOPMENT OF EACH SEASONAL COLLECTION.

TITLE: ASSISTANT DESIGNER COMPANY: CHRISTIAN STONE HONG KONG [2020-2021]

• ASSISTING IN THE DESIGN ITERATION PROCESS OF THE SPRING/ SUMMER ’21 COLLECTION; INCLUDING LEATHER GOODS, SHOES, AND KNITWEAR.

• RESEARCH AND DEVELOPMENT FOR THE COLLECTION, WORKING WITH SUPPLIERS AND VARIETY OF SPECIALIZED FACTORIES - PATTERN MAKING, DRAPING, SEWING, CONSTRUCTING MUSLINS/SAMPLES AND PROTOTYPING BAGS AND UPCOMING HEELS AND BOOTS (DEVELOPING OF THE SIGNATURE GEISHA BOOT).

TITLE: KNITWEAR TECHNICAL INTERN COMPANY: YAN YAN KNITS HONG KONG [2020]

• WORKING CLOSELY WITH THE HEAD DESIGNERS THROUGH RESEARCH (KNIT AND WOVEN EXPLORATION), DESIGN DEVELOPMENTS, FITTINGS, FACTORY ASSESSMENT AS WELL AS DEVELOPMENTS IN POSTPRODUCTION SUCH AS EMBELLISHMENTS- SHOOTING CREATIVE CONTENT FOR SOCIAL MEDIA AND E-COMMERCE.

• WORKING ON SPECS, ILLUSTRATING TECHNICAL FLATS, TECH PACKS SPECIALLY DESIGNED FOR KNIT MANUFACTURING.

TITLE: DESIGN INTERN COMPANY: ROSIE ASSOULIN NEW YORK, NY [2019]

• WORKING ALONGSIDE THE DESIGN TEAM DEVELOPING THE RESORT ’20, SPRING/SUMMER ’20 AND PRE-FALL ’20 COLLECTIONS.

• SOURCING FABRICS, ASSISTING IN FITTINGS, GARMENT CONSTRUCTION AND SAMPLES, ORGANIZING FABRICS AND CREATING COLOR STORIES, WORKING AND ASSISTING AT FACTORIES, PREPARING FLATS AND SPECS, FOR BOTH GARMENTS AND ACCESSORIES - DEVELOPMENT OF UPCYCLED PRODUCTION METHODS.

TITLE: COLLECTION TEAM ASSISTANT COMPANY: RAE CREATIVE NEW YORK, NY [2018-2019]

• WORKING ALONGSIDE BRANDS SUCH AS CALVIN KLEIN 205W39NYC, ALEXANDER WANG, PALM ANGELS, LONGCHAMP, R13, AND KHAITE.

• ASSISTING ON MODEL FITTINGS AND STYLING FOR THE SHOWS, ASSISTING PHOTOGRAPHERS FOR PREPARATION FOR THE SHOW.

• EXPERIENCE BACKSTAGE, SHOOTING FOR LOOK BOOK AND CATALOG.

FABRIC: TRIMS:

PVC LEATHER WITH HIGH GLOSS FINISH (60” WIDE)

16$/YARD FROM MOOD FABRICS + WOOL/ACRYLIC CHUNKY RIB KNIT (20” WIDE) 21.50$/YARD FROM ‘BOTANI’.

0.2MM BALL CHAIN, DARK BROWN CANVAS PIPING (SELF-MADE OR SOURCED FROM PACIFIC TRIMS FOR 2$/YARd, EKKE CLASP BUCKLE IN XL AND S

FABRIC:

TRIMS:

HEAVYWEIGHT SOFT-TEXTURED 100% WOOL BOUCLE (42” WIDE) 40$/YARD FROM ‘MOOD FABRICS’ + POLYESTER STRETCH MESH (60” WIDE) 9$/YARD FROM ‘SPANDEX HOUSE’ + WOOL/ACRYLIC CHUNKY RIB KNIT (20” WIDE) 21.50$/YARD FROM ‘BOTANI’ + CIRCULAR KNIT SPANDEX (23” WIDE) 12$/YARD FROM ‘ELEGANT FABRICS

MATTE STRETCH FOLD-0VER TAPE 2$/YARD FROM ‘PACIFIC TRIMS’, EKKE CLASP BUCKLES X6, METAL RIRI 20” DOUBLEENDED ZIPPED

Scaling up pattern pieces to create a hugging like mechanism to close the pieces around the arm.

Initial thoughts of creating garments out of lining material to link it towards the concept of the innerself; in ways having the model hide inside the leather jacket center rather than just wearing the jacket. These initial ideas came from the initial drapes that I started at the beginning of the collection iteration process.

FABRIC:

WHITE FAUX LEATHER OR UPCYCLED LEATHER, BEMBERG LINING (50” WIDE) 14$/YARD FROM ‘MOOD FABRICS’ + WOOL/ACRYLIC CHUNKY RIB KNIT (20” WIDE) 21.50$/YARD FROM ‘BOTANI’ IN WHITE AND DARK BROWN.

TRIMS: GROMMETS IN SILVER X48, SMALL 24L BUTTONS FOR THE CUFF OF THE SHIRT, EKKE CLASP BUCKLES.

LOOK 7: LEATHER FASTENED SKIRT + JACKET SET, COCOON CARDIGAN AND EXPOSED LINING SHIRT LOOK 6:

MATHIS EKKEBUS

For this development of the collection, I was really focused on composing a structure that both separated from the body whilst simultaneously creating movement of the fabric in relation to the jump away from the body. Deciding length of rod for each channel will also indicate how far the skirt can expand when the other tiers are applied to the form.

I also developed the top to include a curved metal structure over the bust - shapes out into a flag like piece.

JOURNAL PAGES:

The first stages of design development, I was really drawn to the way I could play with silhouette and volume off the body - this was the initial play to see the ways in which flimsier or more loose fabrics work in relation to a bar. I started to focus on contrasting seam lines away from the body using shoulders and hip curves to exaggerate the shape.

1. Development through design led me to follow a certain procedure that includes the overlay of mesh of jersey fabric to emulate the drape, movement and weight of scaffolding over the curves of the body - this material exploration can feel more bound by sewing seams down or also having fluid raw cut mesh over the dresses and skirts.

MANUFACTURING THE BODY

Sharp lines are integrated into the silhouettes as reference to the solution dripping off the manufactured body’s skeleton; parallels to the nature of scaffolding and how it’s built away from the building in means of encapsulation.

EQUINOZ ‘RESTRICTION’ (2021)

Chinese digital artist Equinoz is focused on creating ‘visible future’ with his creations - this series of encased floral gardens protected by metal fencing felt closely tied to visual qualities of the scaffolding that I’m trying to pull from. Protecting the flowers in this isolated landscape; fluorescent lights to provide energy.

SHYGIRL WEARS EKKE F/W ’22 ‘PRESERVATION’ FOR OFFICE MAGAZINE SHOT BY TYLER KOHLOFF

STYLED BY JULIO CESAR DELGADO

EKKE FW ’22 ‘PRESERVATION’ LOOKBOOK

SHOT BY WIND KUPH

LAUNCH OF FIRST EKKE SHOE SAMPLES, FOCUSED ON CONTINUING THE MATERIALITY OF THE COLLECTION INTO NEW EXAGGERATED SHAPES STRETCHING MODELS TO SURREALITY.

17 LOOKS [WOMENSWEAR]

CONCEPT DEVELOPMENT, IDEATION, ART DIRECTION, DESIGN AND CONSTRUCTION OF ALL THE PICTURED LOOKS; ARTICULATING THE DUALITY OF THE PHYSICAL AND SPIRITUAL.

COLLECTION INCLUDES VARIETY OF MATERIALITY, FOCUSED ON REDEVELOPING THE HUMAN SILHOUETTE, THIS IS EXPLORED THROUGH PUFFER CONSTRUCTIONS, DECONSTRUCTED CORSET MANIPULATIONS, AND ANTHROPOMORPHIC TEXTURES. THIS COLLECTION WAS AN ATTEMPT TO PIONEER MODULAR PATTERN-MAKING TO ENABLE GARMENTS TO EXPAND AND SHRINK THROUGH ENGINEERED CUTS.

EKKE FW ’21 ‘SELF CARE’ LOOKBOOK

SHOT BY ERFAN SHEKKARIZ

EKKE FW ’21 ‘SELF CARE’ LOOKBOOK

17 LOOKS [WOMENSWEAR]

SHOT BY ERFAN SHEKKARIZ

CONCEPT DEVELOPMENT, IDEATION, ART DIRECTION, DESIGN AND CONSTRUCTION OF ALL THE PICTURED LOOKS; ARTICULATING THE DUALITY OF THE PHYSICAL AND SPIRITUAL.

COLLECTION INCLUDES VARIETY OF MATERIALITY, FOCUSED ON REDEVELOPING THE HUMAN SILHOUETTE, THIS IS EXPLORED THROUGH PUFFER CONSTRUCTIONS, DECONSTRUCTED CORSET MANIPULATIONS, AND ANTHROPOMORPHIC TEXTURES. THIS COLLECTION WAS AN ATTEMPT TO PIONEER MODULAR PATTERN-MAKING TO ENABLE GARMENTS TO EXPAND AND SHRINK THROUGH ENGINEERED CUTS.

CUSTOM PRINT DEVELOPMENT IN COLLABORATION WITH ARTIST TYLER DUNN; FOCUSED ON CREATING HYPERREALISTIC PRINTS CENTERED AROUND SWEAT AND BLOOD - IDEALIZED INTO A THORN FLORAL PRINT IN CONJUCTION TO A DROPLET PRINT.

BEAN CHEUNG FOR EKKE F/W ’21 ‘SELF CARE’ PREVIEW SHOT BY ELIZABETH KEZIA

BELLA POARCH WEARS EKKE F/W ’21 ‘SELF CARE’ FOR PAPER MAGAZINE X GOOGLE SHOT BY CHARLOTTE RUTHERFORD

EKKE: FUTURE FORWARD

Interview: Mathis Ekkebus / Founder of EKKE

DION LEE SS ’24 ‘RUNWAY

47 LOOKS [UNISEX]

WORKING WITHIN THE DESIGN TEAM ACROSS COLLECTION DEVELOPMENT, AND FOCUSED PRIMARILY IN STYLES WITH NEW CUSTOM DEVELOPED HARDWARE - THIS INCLUDES THIS SEASONS ‘GRADIENT CHAIN’ STYLES ACROSS JERSEY GROUPS AND LINGERIE/SWIMWEAR - RESEARCH AND DEVELOPMENT, IDEATION ACROSS SEASON.

DEVELOPED/CONSTRUCTED NEW PARACHUTE PANT BOOT VARIATIONS IN CONJUNCTION WITH COLOR DEVELOPMENT FOR THE NYLON CANVAS GROUPS

STYLED BY PATTI WILSON

WORKED INTO ITERATIONS OF THE SNAKE WRAPPING BELT WAISTBANDS FROM THE OPENING TWO LOOKS OF THIS COLLECTION; ITERATED INTO THE CONSTRICTOR CAPSULE AS TROUSERS, MINI SKIRTS AND MIDI SKIRTS.

DION LEE F/W ’23 ‘RUNWAY

44 LOOKS [UNISEX]

STYLED BY PATTI WILSON

WORKING WITHIN THE DESIGN TEAM ACROSS COLLECTION DEVELOPMENT, THIS SEASON ACROSS LEATHER GOODS AND SHEARLING WHICH WE DEVELOPED WITH NOTIONS OF REVERSIBILITY - IDEATED UPCYCLED FISHNET HOSIERY DEVELOPMENTS AS WELL AS EYELET AND STUD ARTWORK ACROSS THE COLLECTIONS LEATHER STYLES.

DESIGNED CUSTOM REPTILIAN-INSPIRED LACE ARTWORK WOVEN IN FRANCE- THE ARTWORK WAS BOTH ORGANICALLY AND DIGITALLY DEVELOPED. THIS WAS ALSO CARRIED ACROSS INTO KNIT DEVELOPMENT FOR THE REPTILE HOSIERY LOOKS.

47 LOOKS [UNISEX]

WORKING WITHIN THE DESIGN TEAM ACROSS COLLECTION AND COLOR STORY DEVELOPMENT - FOCUSED PRIMARILY IN THE MENSWEAR DEPARTMENT THIS SEASON FOCUSING ON BELTED STYLES, INCLUDING THE HARNESS PARACHUTE PANTS. DESIGN AND DEVELOPMENT OF NEW JERSEY AND RIB STYLES THROUGHOUT UNISEX STYLES. FOCUSED ROLE IN DEVELOPING THE COLOR PALETTE, AND ACROSS THE STYLING TEAM

WORKED INTO MENS BELTED ACCESSORIES, HARDWARE APPLICATIONS OF THE SAFETY SLIDER (PICTURED ON THE BUTTON-UP)DEVELOPED FROM RESEARCH INVESTIGATING CONSTRUCTION WEAR AND UTILITY CODES.

ASSISTED IN DEVELOPMENT OF THE INTERLOCKING RIB TANK LONG SLEEVE TOP WHICH REINTERPRETED ARCHIVE STYLE LINES INTO SOMETHING MODULAR.

DION LEE SS ’23 ‘RUNWAY

STYLED BY PATTI WILSON

DION LEE SS ’23 BIOMIMICRY ‘ACCESSORY DEVELOPMENT’ STYLED BY PATTI WILSON

DESIGN DEVELOPMENT

Sketch concept for the silver, spiked speedwell hardware that is to be constructed via Rhino CAD software - the structure of the speedwell would have a watch-strap like mechanism to keep the flower flowing with its natural movement (2/3 hinges along the metal shaft to create soft drapes). This integration of biology into metal was one of the first things that sparked to mind during the design iteration process of the capsule.

The lower sketch showcases the hardware explored into jewelry as an earring, possibly with 2 studs to allow for the wearer to loop it to the upper part of the ear whilst simultaneously wearing it a the main piercing hole.

- Spiked speedwell, I was focused on bridging the plant into hardware, the small delicate flowers are no more that 0.01m wide and could easily be developed into small metal paillettes. This could be integrated into the collection through elongated embellishments away from the body or following

Speedwell motif textures integrated into materiality for the pieces - possibly a knit exploration or furry integration for an upcoming collection.

Dion Lee S/S ’21 collection nuances biomimetics through translating the monsteras leaf shapes into leather, armor-like plates - The subversive act of converting biological material into technology suggests dystopian ideologies that feel in tune with the brands future-centric view. I wanted to continue this approach in my design developments referring to the rapid integration of technology into nature; focusing on environments that feel untouched by humans and calculated by

Extension; of space, body and the mind

Looking at some chain-like material developments, I wanted to focus on emulating this soft, and inter-twining aesthetic of the plant but reiterating it in harder materials, steel paillettes, also could be iterated in a way that feels in

FIG. 2 - SPIKED SPEEDWELL INSPIRED HARDWARE TIE-END

Iterations into bralike garments; during development of the dress I started to unpack ways the silhouette or style details could be carried out into other styles along the collection; same hardware and made primarily of the viscose-jersey blend

Fascinated by these aerial photographs, I started to think of the brand’s focus on technology, the sharp blue reflex of light on the solar pants and metallic components strike several ideas for print, seam and possibly cut-out motifs that follow this web-like constructed environment.

I began the iteration process through exploring 5 prints, mostly focusing on a warped expansive landscape motif; I thought something like this could be easily turned into a beautiful light-weight delicate but also enable to print to really fuse with the wearer’s skin tone - this is in conjunction with a heavier-weight ‘viscose-blend jersey’

FIG. 5 - ‘THE ARRIVALS’ BY DENIS VILLENEUVE (2016)

The scarf style motif from the dress was continued in development for the trouser, I started to think of ways In which we could create a detachable scarf that could be worn around the body, or the head if not attached to the trouser.

Iterations of the mechanical cargo pant in a variety of different colors, the initial design was in a cool khaki color and I also iterated it into a dark grey color way; I think these looks could also be successfully translated into cotton canvas, creating structure in spaces of volume - the overlays might create restrictive movement which wouldn’t be ideal.

FIG. 7 - ‘ARM’ BY CARLOS SAEZ (2019)

1. DRESS

Cost: $24USD/12 PC N/A. (1PC)

Notes:

- 5-panelled mesh gown - overlocked, pressed and sewn as seams - continuing Dion Lee’s corset style motifs.

- 2 subtle 5” expansion godet detail on the front of the gown.

- Lace-up detail on the upper hip, fastened with 12 silver grommets to allow for both a relaxed feel or a more figure hugging silhouette.

- Scarf detail on the back connected via the upper arm.

- Illusion style details on the upper front of the detail, connect 2 straps into a halter-style design in the back of the dress, positioned with a 2” curved elevation and silver hoop detail.

- Printed mesh and solid mesh variations

- Baby seams at the hem of the dress to minimize bulk and to allow movement with the delicate fabric whilst the dress walks.

This dress was inspired by the intricate framework of a solar panel plant, the photographs of Bernhard Lang inspired this disorienting print. The 5-panel dress is made mainly of polyamide mesh, that is combined with the use of heavier viscose-blend jersey which enables the scarf to drape nicely over the upper arm and onto the back as well as hold the body in a comfortable way. The slight slouch in the waist, is accentuated with a lace-up detail that feels strongly associated with the brands constructive nature, and integrates some metallic details to further exemplify the futuristic aesthetic.

The print development for this dress was focused around a photograph by. Bernhard Lang, through using different techniques in Photoshop, I was able to give the imagery a disorienting feeling - playing with black and white as well as color halftones in response to the melting solar panel landscape, I thought this would make for a viable sheer overlay onto skin, allowing others to see small details yet not make up quite what the print is. I also think the print has a somewhat orbital feeling, sends the wearer into another galaxy.

This printed fabric would be on stretch polyamide mesh; a very light-weight variation of mesh that allows the skin to be primarily visible underneath.

BLACK PRINTED AND BLACK COLOR

FIG. 8 - SOLAR PANEL SCAPE WARPED PRINT DESIGN

2. TAILORED JACKET

UNISEX UNISEX

Notes:

- Cargo-style jacket with dropped tailored shoulder detail, and structured curved seams following the body lines.

- 2 6X6” Patch pockets with paneled opening placed on the center-front to side seams with subtle rivet details.

- 2 4” zipped convenient pockets above patch pockets.

- Continued lace-up detail on the upper arm, allows for some varied styling options as the ties are housed on the inside of the jacket.

- Signature Dion Lee zipper pull front style (16”), with off-centered style.

- Large structured collar and V-shaped Yoke on the back of the jacket to create convincing robotic lines on the body - utilitarian inspired.

- Slanted flap pockets on the side of the trouser front with hidden snap detail.

For the tailored jacket, I wanted to approach it without centering myself around blazers, and finding an inbetween for Dion Lee’s cargo styles that have grown popular; this is a really boxy, oversized cargo jacket, with pocket details and curved seam lines that make it attractive for all customers. Creating this in conjunction with the pants, I thought this utility-inspired look could be a great addition to the collection whilst retaining the robotic lines found in some research imagery.

Notes:

- Oversized fit Cargo-style trousers with dropped waist and dropped crotch details; zipper and hidden snap closure for the waist of the pants.

- 2 6X6” Patch pockets with paneled opening placed on the back of the pants with subtle rivet details.

- Illusion 4” Welt zipper pockets with sewn down flat detail above the ‘robotic support’ scarf motif wrapped around the lower leg.

- Continued lace-up detail on the upper leg allows for some varied styling options as the ties are housed on the inside of the pants.

- Pant ties are finished with custom ‘Spiked Speedwell’ hardware which is developed via CAD - weighs down the trousers and leaves a more elegant finish to the pants.

- Inner-workings style detail on the front and side of the pants are inspired by robotic support mechanisms, boxy seam lines are inspired by utilitarian workwear styles/ military surplus.

The trousers of the capsule collection are focused heavily on the centric DNA of the brand, inspired by cargo-styles, these robotic seamed trousers are finished with topstitched 1/2” seams and subtle rivet details to merge the utility style with the futuristic aesthetic. I see these trousers living in a desert in space, the voluminous lower half is accentuated with the wrap around scarf detail that is pulled back from the dress design to remain cohesive. Finished with a snap at the waist, with adjustable togglesthe strings to tie the waist are finished with the custom Spiked Speedwell hardware that became eponymous whilst designing this capsule.

DTM

4. SHIRT

ENTRY

5. JERSEY CUT+SEW

Notes:

- 12-piece panelled cupro jersey shirt with hardware heavy lace-up details following a symmetric pattern on the center-front that builds around the wearers body.

- The shirt includes a halter style, with a engraved silver ring at the collarbone that brakes into two straps to tie at the back of the neck. Comfortable and restrictive at the same time.

- Fitted sleeves that wrap around the hand.

- Integration of black viscose-blend jersey in the bra detail and in the back to create tightness around the body and support the bust - bra detail in between the other fabrics.

- 14 grommets fixed into the culpro jersey center front and following lines into the shoulder seam for reassured support.

- Fusing the aesthetics of the brand, the small panels of stretch polyamide mesh are following the straps on the front and scoop on the back of the shirt to play with the wearer’s skin and opacity.

- The spiked speedwell hardware is implemented into these design at three different moments, tied at the back of the skirt and hanging suspended from 4 points on the skirt to allow adjustability and movement.

This shirt was focused on something that stuck out to me on the brief’s ‘brand pillars’ - comfort and restriction stuck out to me to create something that feels comfortable to wear yet aesthetically feels that its holding the wearer immobile, the strong lines crossing over the body feel like they’re endless - emulating this idea of space, extending around the body and following the lines that can release and tighten the volume of the shirt. Combined with the underwear styles and paired with the skirt, this look feels warrior-esque.

Notes:

- Star-shaped motif mesh bodysuit with halter tie detail at the neck alongside repeated ties on the back of the piece.

- Illusion style play with opacity, playing with the look of the star falling onto a laying body and wrapping itself around the natural curves - small reveals at the shoulder, and more visible pieces wrapping around the side and center-front of the body.

- Baby-tee style fit on the shoulder

- Finished with stretch bias tape to clean the raw edges of the mesh and create lasting support/fit.

- Small, star-like motif for the snap-panel at the crotchfinished with 3 1/4” nickel snaps for ease of wear.

- Tie detail attached to the Dion Lee brand and applied to the neck connected from the upper part of the bra piece.

was one of the exciting pieces to research, develop and design - I was fascinated with the anemones and integrated it into this star-like motif paneled into the mesh bodysuit, creating unique illusion style seam lines, and dissecting the body in ways that showcase the highhip and the wearers figure. This design would work well on a curvier, more full-bodied woman as well keeping the cut-line of the bottom of the bodysuit to cut over into the underarms. Made out of 2 materials, this is an easier and more accessible design to integrate into the collection.

Fabric: Stretch Polyamide Mesh

Notes:

- 3-panelled cupro jersey skirt with hardware heavy laceup details following a symmetric pattern on the centerfront that builds around the wearers body.

- Signature cut-out viscose blend waistband that open-up the hips and sculpts the body before the skirt opens.

- 2 grommets fixed into the waistband, and 52 grommets fixed into the culpro jersey.

- Exaggerated sharp cuts for the train of the skirt that extends around 35” from the feet - reimagining the star motif from the bodysuit and integrating this extending motif that feels aligned with the capsule.

- Subtle integrations of the polyamide mesh are placed in the 2 center-front and 2 center-back godet details at the bottom of the skirt, 3/4 layers of the mesh are placed to create movement and kick when the wearer is walking.

- The spiked speedwell hardware is implemented into these design at three different moments, tied at the back of the skirt and hanging suspended from 4 points on the skirt to allow adjustability and movement.

This skirt brings more drama to the rest of the collection, focused on flattering and an elongated silhouette, the skirt fits tight from the hips down to the calf and breaks into a train that stretches the wearer’s figure and extends into the floor. This style is heavy on metal and plays heavily with some of the brand pillars that stuck out to me centered around movement + restriction; this implementation of lace up detailing in restricting methods but finished out of culpro jersey that lays delicately on the skin feels to work great in highlighting the body.

ILLUSTRATOR TECH DRAWINGS

LOOKS DEVELOPED FROM MY STYLES FOR THE PRE-SPRING, AND FOLLOWING SPRING ’24 COLLECTIONS; USING THE CIRCLE CHAIN MOTIF IN DIFFERENT DIRECTIONALITY'S ON THE BODY - PLAYING WITH THE DELICATE NATURE OF THE CHAIN ON THE SKIN, THIS FLOWED INTO LINGERIE AND SWIMWEAR STYLES INTUITIVELY.

LOURDES LEON FOR DION LEE CIRCLE CHAIN BAG CAMPAIGN

SHOT BY CARLOTA GUERRERO

DION LEE PRE-SPRING ’24 LOOKBOOK SHOT BY ILYA LIPKIN

DESIGNED CUSTOM HARDWARE IN REPLACEMENT FOR THE LEATHER DENIM BACK TAG ALONGSIDE UTILITY INSPIRED RIVETS, BUTTONS, CORD ENDS AND ITERATIONS INTO GRADIENT CHAIN GROUP (PICTURED BELOW)

DEVELOPED/CONSTRUCTED NEW PARACHUTE PANT BOOT VARIATIONS IN CONJUNCTION WITH COLOR DEVELOPMENT FOR THE NYLON CANVAS GROUPS

DION LEE PS ’24 LOOKS

31 LOOKS [UNISEX]

WORKING WITHIN THE DESIGN TEAM ACROSS COLLECTION DEVELOPMENT, AND FOCUSED PRIMARILY IN STYLES WITH NEW CUSTOM DEVELOPED HARDWARE - THIS INCLUDES THIS SEASONS ‘GRADIENT CHAIN’ STYLES ACROSS JERSEY GROUPS AND LINGERIE/SWIMWEAR - RESEARCH AND DEVELOPMENT, IDEATION ACROSS SEASON.

14 LOOKS [UNISEX]

WORKING CLOSELY WITH CHRISTIAN FROM START TO FINISH ON THIS COLLECTION AS HIS RIGHT HAND - DEVELOPMENT OF STYLES THAT DERIVED FROM GAMING FURNITURE AND BACKPACK CONSTRUCTION LANGUAGE- WE EXPLORED THE RELATIONSHIP BETWEEN THE POSITIVE AND NEGATIVE, EXPLORING CUT OUTS AND NEW VISIONS OF SENSUALITY IN RELATION TO THE CLOTHES WE WEAR. DESIGN ROLES WERE FOCUSED IN MORE OF THE BACKPACK AND UTILITARIAN STYLES + WOMENS.

CHRISTIAN STONE F/W ’21 ‘PAINSTATION’ LOOKBOOK STYLED BY OSCAR CHIK