The Gloss June 2016 by Gloss Publications

SPLASH OUT ON A SWIMSUIT / A ROSY FUTURE / BOOKS, FOOD, WINE & TRAVEL / EXOTIC JEWELLERY / INTRIGUING SCENTS

MAGAZINE JUNE 2016

with THE IR

ISH TIMES

BALLET FOR BEGINNERS Bending it like (Victoria) Beckham

THE GLOSSY GUIDE TO

SUMMER PARTIES

GET OUT THERE AND ACE YOUR SUMMER FASHION LOOK

B O O D LES. CO M / W I S T ER I A

JUNE 2016 NEXT ISSUE

�6

THURSDAY JULY 7

INSIDE THIS ISSUE 8 HUNTING & GATHERING It's game, set and match to natty tennis style

Director of Jimmy Choo, spends her downtime in London

32 FASHION Play to win in soft tailoring and athletic details

16 MOODBOARD

37 JEWELLERY

Susan Zelouf is feeling rosy

Heavenly coloured diamonds inspired by the hot tropics

18 OUCH! Maggie Armstrong on the impact of a social burn

20 HOME TO ROOST New Yorker Alice Carey has fallen for West Cork

Tried and trusted SPFs, tips to brighten skin and rosy essentials

41 BOOKS EM Reapy on the creative benefits of travelling alone

Nifty notions for June doings

42 FOOD Trish Deseine is spicing up a juicy joint of lamb

26 CALLED TO THE BARRE

43 WINE

Sarah Breen tries ballet for beginners

The joys of adding a vineyard visit to your summer holiday itinerary

44 TRAVEL

The best new season swimwear

Tim Magee takes a Game of Thronesinspired tour of Europe

30 MY GLOSSY WEEKEND

46 THIS GLOSSY LIFE

Sandra Choi, Creative

E DITO R

SA RA H M C D O N N E L L STY L E E DITO R

AISLINN COFFEY

��

39 BEAUTY

22 WHY DON'T YOU?

28 SHOPPING

PU B L IS H E R

JA N E M C D O N N E L L

The glossy guide to hosting, decorating and dressing for summer celebrations

2 | June 2016 | T H E G L O S S M A G A Z I N E

B E AU TY E DITO R

SA RA H H A L L I W E L L ART E DITO R

L AU RA K E N N Y ASS ISTANT E DITO R – FE ATU RE S

SA RA H B R E E N ASS ISTANT E DITO R

ON THE COVER: Chestnut sleeveless silk and linen jumpsuit; white canvas sneakers; both HERMÉS. Blue tweed and leather bowling bag, CHANEL. TOP CENTRE: Pale pink and grey bomber jacket; dark grey elastic waist and cuff trousers; khaki sandals with track sole; all ZARA. Black and white crochet knit tank top, CÉLINE.

H A N NA H P O P H A M ASS ISTANT E DITO R

SA RA H G E RAG H T Y ADVE RTIS ING SAL E S DIRE CTO R

T RAC Y O R M I STO N CO N TRIB UTIN G EDITO RS

TOP RIGHT: Cream cropped wool sweater; off-white pleated silk dress; large silver crinkled metallic Diorever leather bag; all CHRISTIAN DIOR. White platform leather tassel loafers; ZARA.

Polly Devlin, Antonia Hart, Catherine Heaney, Penny McCormick, Katy McGuinness, Aoife O’Brien, Peter O’Brien, Therese Quinn, Luis Rodriguez, Natasha Sherling

STAY IN TOUCH

CO N TRIB UTIN G PH OTO G RA PH ERS

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Michael Dwornik, Neil Gavin, Renato Ghiazza, Olivia Graham, Neil Hurley, Lisa Loftus, Barry McCall, Joanne Murphy, Liam Murphy, Amelia Stein, Suki Stuart THE GLOSS welcomes letters from readers, emailed to letters@thegloss.ie. THE GLOSS is published by Gloss Publications Ltd, The Courtyard, 40 Main Street, Blackrock, Co Dublin, 01 275 5130. Subscriptions Hotline: 01 275 5130. 12 issues delivered directly to your address: Ireland: t49.50. UK and EU: t80. Rest of world: t115. Printed by Boylan Print. Colour origination by Typeform. Copyright 2016 Gloss Publications Ltd. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited. This magazine can be recycled either in your Green Bin kerbside collection or at a local recycling point.

~ GLOSS IP JUNE

Holiday TRIBES... upgrade-worthy STYLE ... a fashion muse in WESTMEATH ... enthralling BEACH READS and pedicures are GOING GREEN ...

re you going on holiday? You’re not alone. According to Travel Supermarket, we’re now planning three trips annually instead of two. Research shows that those in so-called “grade A jobs” take an average of eight holidays a year – that’s one every six weeks. Millennials are also driving up the holiday bar charts by insisting on a #yolo lifestyle (you only live once). An Eventbrite survey found that 78 per cent would prefer to spend their money on an “experience” – such as a holiday – over something tangible that they could own.

orange and green. Add textured pouffes for meaningful pow-wows and expect to see lots of galloping horse prints. One more thing; it seems you can never have too many cacti.

FIRST CLASSY: Amal Clooney always looks SFU.

   Handsome Irish-American model SEAN O’PRY is certainly making a name for himself. Not only has he featured in music videos from MADONNA and TAYLOR SWIFT, he is currently fronting Filipino brand Penshoppe’s SS16 campaign alongside LUCKY BLUE SMITH and KENDALL JENNER. O’Pry will also be appearing in GQ, who brought him back to the ole country from his base in New York for a recent photoshoot. But he remains grounded, explaining: “I have the perfect amount of fame; no one knows my name.”

   Competitive holidaying is nothing new but there’s now an added dimension. Have you signed up for a “voluntour” yet? There’s a growing trend to contribute, give something back, and experience life-changing scenarios in far-flung destinations such as Laos, Fiji, South Pacific and Thailand. Global Vision International offers projects for those who seek rewarding travel experiences.    Wearable art is popping up on summer accessories. Lily and Lionel’s latest collection features SLIM AARONS’ iconic photographs of Beverly Hills Hotel, Poolside Glamour and the Eden Roc pool on luxurious modal and cashmere scarves, on sale exclusively in Liberty’s scarf hall. Asked about his work, Aarons said he photographed “attractive people, doing attractive things in attractive places”. In a similar vein, fancy swimming trunks label Vilebrequin (born in St Tropez) has used Italian photographer, MASSIMO VITALI’s images of the Provençal Hotel (opened in 1951) and its saltwater pool, carved out from the cliffs, on its Moorea and Merise trunks. Having documented holidaymakers on the Riviera in the 1970s, Vitali witnessed only two tribes – beach lovers or rock lovers. Writer AA GILL says that men have only two ways to show off on a beach – with their watch or their swimwear. That's presuming, AA, they have already moved past the socks-and-sandals phase. An alarming sight at the Alicante departure gate in Dublin airport recently featured a bevy of lads already attired in their swimming shorts. That's what we call forward planning.    LA stylist ELIZABETH SALTZMAN, who works with GWYNETH PALTROW, UMA THURMAN and SAOIRSE RONAN, recently judged the inaugural World’s Best Dressed Traveller List with British Airways. VICTORIA BECKHAM came first, though our money was on AMAL CLOONEY (a close second). Saltzman’s own flight hacks include CHARLOTTE TILBURY’s Magic

6 | June 2016 | T H E G L O S S M A G A Z I N E

  

Cream, LAURENCE DACADE sandals, a Céline navy cardigan and a Maison Michel hat. If we follow her advice, does that mean we’ll get an SFU (suitable for upgrade) note next to our name? In case you hadn’t got the memo, via the Chanel Cruise Show in Cuba, panamas and fedoras are big news this summer …

Fashion muse, heiress and mistress of BERNARD-HENRI LEVY, DAPHNE GUINNESS has released an album – Optimist in Black – and has worked on it with Irish producer PAT DONNE who co-wrote it. Guinness hired Grouse Lodge studios in Co Westmeath to record it. She loved it there so much that she now rents nearby Coolatore House (as did MICHAEL JACKSON in 2007). How does she manage the stairs in her NORITAKA TATEHANA heel-less footwear?

  

Thousands of women have been in training for the VHI Women’s Mini Marathon which takes place on June 6, with most running on behalf of a charity or a very worthwhile cause close to their heart. It seems, when it comes to training, strong wins out over skinny and it’s all happening online. Today’s It Girls aren’t staying out late drinking, sleeping in and touting good genes as the secret to staying svelte; instead, they’re waking up before 7am (Snapchat timestamps are the new way of showing off ), sipping matcha and hitting the gym, with HANNAH BRONFMAN, ANNA VICTORIA and KAYLA ITSINES making “strong” sexy. Four million-plus fitness fanatics follow KAYLA ITSINES and her “personal training journey,” posting Instagram photos of their progress using the hashtag #KaylasArmy. Getting double-taps isn’t their only motivation: these trainers sell downloadable e-books and virtual coaching. So, while strong is far better than skinny, before anyone feels under pressure, it’s worth remembering these women are making a living from how they look, not merely squeezing in a twice-weekly walk and going easy on the Sancerre.

What to read on holiday? Indiscretion by CHARLES DUBOW, described as The Great Gatsby of the modern era, set in the Hamptons; Frog Music by EMMA DONOGHUE, a whodunnit set in San Francisco; The Museum of Extraordinary Things, ALICE HOFFMAN’s magical realism set in New York.

   Planning a staycation and an interiors overhaul? Stand by for the latest hunter-gatherer interior trend – Navaho chic is going to be huge. Cowhide rugs meld with a subdued colour palette in sand, grey and earthy reds spiced up with hits of

   Spotted taking to the stage in Berlin recently was Irish make-up guru LESLEY KEANE, presenting MAC A/W trends. Expect multicolours, glitter and a luxurious reprise of the 1970s and 1980s. This summer, to avoid fashion Siberia, make sure your toenails are the right colour. Green is in. BEYONCÉ wore Nail Inc’s Bruton Mews to the Met Ball, while Chanel’s Emeraude or Essie’s Turquoise & Caicos are must-haves. Not your thing? Then take your cue from Prada’s nude pedi – ie beautifully groomed feet.    As festival season swings into life (see page 16), there isn’t a weekend to waste, with sporting and cultural events happening all over the country. If muddy fields are not your thing and you’re too old to master skills such as returning an enormous pop-up tent to the tiny bag it came in, you might want to listen to your favourite author speak, enjoy an evening of opera or attend a From The Isle pop-up dinner, food-tasting or food workshop at Kildare Village, all-Irish produce in the hands of talented chefs – delicious. ^

Photo Michel Gibert. Photograph used as a reference only.

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HUNTING

TENNIS TI ME

GET YOUR GAME ON

JASON LLOYD-EVANS

How we aspire to this Hermès vision of sportswear (while being a little alarmed at the lack of a good sports bra). We’ve always been wary of style over substance when it comes to the tennis court – the people with all the flashy gear generally turn out to be the most feeble players – and yet there are limits. That ancient Bowie T-shirt and saggy tracksuit bottoms are really not enhancing your killer backhand. Start playing to win. Adopt sharp whites for summer, whether actually participating or simply sipping Pimm’s court-side. We’re scouring sports shops for cotton karate trousers – cool and easy to wear – and pro ballet shoes. Let’s forget Lycra for a while, and find our inner McEnroe ...

8 | June 2016 | T H E G L O S S M A G A Z I N E

crush

Julian Schneyder, Martial Artist

Kendall Jenner, Model

GATHERING

Channel the Trend HERMÈS

7 8

JASON LLOYD-EVANS

SERVI N G U P ST YL E

ACE IT 1. Blush & Highlight Palette, SMASHBOX, d35.50, at Arnotts. 2. White wool sweater with stripe trim, GUCCI, d490; www.net-a-porter.com 3. Sterling Silver Wimbledon necklace, d95, at LINKS OF LONDON, 25 South Anne Street, Dublin 2. 4. White cotton skort with pockets, d29.95, at ZARA. 5. Set of twelve sportsday winner's medals, d6.95; WWW.DOTCOMGIFTSHOP.COM. 6. Red Connected rubber-strap watch, TAG HEUER, d1,400, at Weir & Sons, Grafton Street, Dublin 2. 7. Cateye sunglasses, d675, at VICTORIA BECKHAM. 8. Capucine Red leather cuff, HERMÈS, d355, at Brown Thomas Dublin. 9. Acrylic ice bucket, from a selection, at LAURA ASHLEY. 10. White perforated tennis visor, L'ETOILE, d79; www.net-a-porter.com. 11. Temagami racquet cover in canvas and leather, $295; WWW.PARKACCESSORIES.COM. For stockists, www.thegloss.ie

10 | June 2016 | T H E G L O S S M A G A Z I N E

Explore our extraordinary new Lingerie Room Now open on Level 3, Brown Thomas Dublin

UPDATE

The Lowdown

Glenveagh Castle, Co Donegal, home to Music at the Castle, one of the events at Earagail Arts Festival. Below left: Zurich Dalkey Book Festival. Left: Chanel Resort Collection 2016/2017. Below right: The Campo Viejo Tapas Trail.

YOUR GLOSSY GUIDE TO SUMMER FESTIVALS

GALWAY INTERNATIONAL ARTS FESTIVAL is packed with nostalgia this year, as Suede and Elvis Costello get set to whisk audiences back to the 1990s. Also taking to the stage is the Fishamble Olivier Award Winner 2016, Invitation to a Journey – Inspired by Eileen Gray. July 1124; www.giaf.ie EARAGAIL ARTS FESTIVAL begins on July 8, with a wonderful production of Wuthering Heights on the lawns of Rathmullen House and a discussion about folk music with Mercury Prizenominated singer Sam Lee. July 8-24; www.eaf.ie GREAT MUSIC IN IRISH HOUSES features performances of composers including Bach, Haydn and Schubert in some of the country’s most gorgeous spaces, such the Freemason’s Hall, No 6 Kildare Street, Dublin Castle, and Kilruddery House. June 7-12; www.greatmusicinirishhouses.com IMMA SUMMERFEST takes place on Saturday July 17 at the Royal Hospital Kilmainham. Curated by Cillian Murphy, the line-up includes The Gloaming’s Caoimhín Ó Raghallaigh and German pianist Hauschka; www.imma.ie

FAMILY Head for beautiful Bantry with the little ones for WEST CORK LITERARY FESTIVAL, where along with authors Zadie Smith, Louis de Bernières and Catherine Ryan Howard, kids will be treated to their own dedicated book festival. Think workshops in writing by ER Murray, poetry by Chrissie Gittins, illustration by Mark Wickham and select book readings. July 17-23; www.westcorkmusic.ie

GARDEN BALLYMALOE GARDEN FESTIVAL’s line-up includes featured speakers Susan Turner and June Blake and the first ever Ballymaloe Summer Show awarding prizes for the best home-grown and home-baked treats, and the silliest garden hat. September 3-4; www.gardenfestival. ballymaloe.ie. Meanwhile, BLOOM celebrates a decade in Phoenix Park from June 2-6; www.bloominthepark.com

LITERATURE FOOD & WINE At WESTPORT FOOD FESTIVAL, the charming Mayo village will host a series of culinary events including a fourcourse banquet, a Great Irish Food Quiz, masterclasses in mushroom and seaweed foraging and a pizza-making workshop. June 24-26; www.westportfoodfestival.ie THE CAMPO VIEJO TAPAS TRAIL is making its way from its sun-soaked vineyards in La Rioja to Dublin, Cork and Galway, from June 8. Guests are brought on a “tapeo” trail of tapas dishes from four Spanish eateries, complemented by red wine. June 7-September 7; www. campoviejotapastrail.ie

David McWilliam’s and Sian Smyth’s ZURICH DALKEY BOOK FESTIVAL always attracts impressive guests. In this year’s line-up are Malcolm Gladwell, Brian Eno, Bob Geldof, John Banville and Donal Ryan, along with discussions about Eastern medicine, Donald Trump and a play depicting Countess Markievicz’s life. June 16-19; www.dalkeybookfestival.org THE BORRIS HOUSE FESTIVAL OF WRITING AND IDEAS summons writers, historians, journalists, broadcasters, and musicians to the idyllic Carlow town for a weekend of fascinating discussion, this year from sources as diverse as Martin Amis, Chrissie Hynde, Lucy Caldwell, Michael Chabon and Kate Tempest. June 10-12; www.festivalofwritingandideas.com

THE FESTIVAL EDIT Not a flower crown in sight Petal collar necklace, d27, at Marks & Spencer.

Black Blaine embellished wrap top, d1,480, Isabel Marant, at Brown Thomas.

12 | June 2016 | T H E G L O S S M A G A Z I N E

Silver metallic sneakers, d89, Carolyn Donnelly The Edit, at Dunnes Stores.

ALSO THIS MONTH ... WE’RE READING: Karen McCartney’s PERFECT IMPERFECT which celebrates the wonderful idea that beauty can be found in the imperfect. Murdoch, S14.50. Jacqueline Susann’s VALLEY OF THE DOLLS, released 50 years ago, paved the way for Jackie Collins, Candace Bushnell and Lena Dunham. Virago has created a chic anniversary edition we’re dying to own. Virago, S12.99

WE’RE DINING AT: TANG, Yogism’s latest creation on Dawson Street, Dublin 2. The menu is inspired by yoghurt and created by food project Gruel Guerilla. Expect dishes of buckwheat pancakes and Turkish baked eggs, all served with yoghurt dips, with everything made in store. GOOD THINGS CAFÉ at Dillon’s Corner, Skibbereen. Family run and led by Carmel Somers, she sources all their ingredients (many organic) from local producers in West Cork.

COMPILED BY HANNAH POPHAM

MUSIC & THEATRE

WWW.THOMASSABO.COM

IRELAND@THOMASSABO.COM

MOODBOARD

“I’D LOVE TO HAVE THE WHOLE PLACE SWIMMING IN ROSES”

I’m seeing the world through Stella McCartney’s rose-coloured glasses in natural bio acetate, designed for Kering Eyewear.

JAMES JOYCE, ULYSSES

“THE WORKER MUST HAVE BREAD, BUT SHE MUST HAVE ROSES TOO.” ROSE SCHNEIDERMAN

THI S MO N TH T H E M O O D IS:

ROSY

I’m swooning over Masanori Umeda’s 1990 Rose chair for Edra. See it at the International Design Museum in Munich.

SUSAN ZELOUF is feeling in the pink As a little girl, I loved watching my maternal grandmother prepare Sabbath dinners, perspiring as she appraised the creamy cinnamon noodle kugel and brisket braising in her pale pink enamel oven, lifting lids to inspect Ashkenazi Jewish dishes simmering on all four hobs: fluffy matzo ball soup, halupki (stuffed cabbage), tzimmes (a sweet stew made from root vegetables, dried fruits and chunks of beef ) and kreplach (boiled dumplings stuffed with potato, then fried with onions). For my Home Economics class, I chose more exotic Middle Eastern recipes from my father’s side: tahdig (crispy rice my mother tended to burn for her in-laws) and baklava, a Persian sweet made with cardamon and rosewater from a blue glass bottle filled with the liquor of fragrant rose petals steeped in water. Since then, I’ve kept a vial in the larder to inhale on grey days, transporting me to rosier climes. Roses have a reputation for being difficult to cultivate; in bloom, it’s easier to look beyond the prickles. From the wild dog roses of Ireland’s hedgerows to the exponentially growing list of aromatic and colourful cultivars named after famous people or for a price, your own beloved, a rose is a rose is a rose, but consider the dollars of scents: it takes four tons (1,600,000 handpicked blossoms) to cull enough attar of roses, the volatile oil produced by steam-distilling crushed petals (plucked in the morning after the dew has evaporated but before the afternoon sun has warmed them) to make one kilogramme of rose oil, fetching around c5,000. Rosebased perfumes are big business, but what makes this flower such a potent symbol of love, so culturally significant, so rosemantic? The rose predates man by thousands of millennia; there’s fossil evidence of roses in Asia some 70 million years ago. Medieval Christians identified the five petals of the rose with the five wounds of Christ and later as a

16 | June 2016 | T H E G L O S S M A G A Z I N E

symbol of the blood of Christian martyrs. In Catholicism, the sudden smell of roses is a paranormal phenomenon associated with the presence of the Virgin Mary (“a rose without thorns”), the odour of sanctity. In Islam, the rose expresses Divine Beauty and the Prophet Muhammad. In Rome, a rose on a door signified a clandestine meeting; “sub rosa” means in secret, literally “under the rose”. In Oscar Wilde’s gothic fairytale The Rose and the Nightingale, a songbird pays the ultimate price for love, in the form of a blood red rose. It may smell as sweet, but the colour of a rose denotes its meaning. Give a single red rose and you invoke Aphrodite, Greek goddess of love and desire and before you can say “Roses are red, violets are blue, sugar is sweet, you have a lovely arse” you’ve sent a message conveying passion and eternal devotion. Interflora your significant other a dozen yellow roses as a sign that you’re madly jealous. When you’ve fallen out of the bed of roses, a long stemmed black rose acts as an elegant punctuation mark, declaring the end of the affair. If your true love happens to be an ex-con, try painting your walls tea rose like the experimental pink prisons in Switzerland, their cells daubed in Baker-Miller pink (also known as DrunkTank pink), a tone purported to calm violent tendencies. It’s June, and all over Ireland, climbers and shrubs and hedgerows are in full flower, so why not stop and smell the roses? Whether you prefer your rose notes lush and elegant or warm and powdery, freshly picked and uncomplicated or a dusky-plummy East-meetsWest tapestry, there’s a rose-based parfum for you. Don’t forget to ice the rosé before you sink into your Edra Rose chair in a pair of Dolce & Gabbana rose-emblazoned silk pyjamas, as roses do have a tendency to go to the head. ^ @SusanZelouf

THIS MONTH’S MOODBOARD I’M FLUSHING with pleasure multiple times a day in NARS Orgasm (1) a sheer pressed-powder blush with a soft lightreflecting pigment. At Brown Thomas. I’M LOUNGING in Dolce & Gabbana roseprint silk pyjamas (2). www.harrods.com. I’M SIPPING chilled Cuvée Bellugue Rosé from Chateau La Coste en Provence (3). Visit for the art, architecture and lush vineyards, or stock up at www.terroirs.ie.

I’M PAINTING my walls in Annie Sloan’s Antoinette, an eco-friendly subtle rose quartz hue (4). The Paint Pot, 8 St Patrick’s Quay, Cork. I’M DABBING my pulse points with Aerin Lauder’s musky, voluptuous Rose de Grasse (5). From www. esteelauder.co.uk.

hello P UREO LO GY

FOR COLOUR T RE AT ED H A IR

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SOCIAL LIFE

OUCH!

Have you ever experienced an embarrassing public brush-off by someone who knows you fine well? It’s called burning, says MAGGIE ARMSTRONG, and we all do it

icture the pathetic little scene. You are walking down the street, which is busy and cheerful. It’s your lunchtime, and you are thinking about your sandwich, or a pair of shoes on sale. Through the crowd you see a face you know. Adrenaline pumps; you haven’t seen them for a while. They draw nearer, their eyes meet yours; you begin to smile. Memories flood in, dilemmas over where to pick up again. As your paths converge, their gaze slips away into some compelling distance. You halt. They pass on. It stings. They’re gone. You lurch around, mouth open, your bright eyes turned to flames. You’ve been burned. We’ve all been burned and we all burn all the time. Blanking, some call it rather generously, as if it were a mistake, a name blank, a touch of poor eyesight. Burning is how we get along in a tight-knit capital such as Dublin. But there is something especially duplicitous, especially shorn of humanity about it in this virtual friendscape, this planet of public displays of affection they call the digital age. As our social lives are relocated to flashing pieces of metal in our hands, our WhatsApp groups proliferate, our number of “friends” climbs and we do ever more desperate things to gain “followers”, actual friendliness would seem to have a much higher value. Funny that it doesn’t. Funny that, as the popularity contest rages online and we work up those Twitter, or Facebook, or whatever silly new thing they’re calling it, stats, we are so busy maintaining these avatars we couldn’t be bothered with real life. It’s nothing sinister. You just couldn’t be bothered saying hello, at that particular moment, okay? Sure. And yet, when you burn someone, you are pretending they do not exist. You are consigning that person to a blind spot – a black social hole. It is a sleight of hand so craftily manoeuvred, so easily passed off as an oversight that people who make it their habit to burn other people can get through their whole lives without ever being held to account. Eye contact is never in writing – who can prove it happened? Parents have another term for burn – “cut dead” – as used by one solicitor I knew whose client lost in the High Court to an extremely egotistical barrister. That barrister cuts that solicitor dead regularly, even in the streets and shops of their small and lifeless town. But it’s different. “Cutting dead” implies cruelty, it has a confrontational moxy to it, an empowerment. There is boycott, and sweet revenge implied. Burning is cowardice. It is stamping on the republican principle of fraternity, ducking out of your most basic citizen duty, and into a Wild West of dishonesty. A burn is a lie, it’s just not printed or spoken. Of course, there are many reasons to commit such a

18 | June 2016 | T H E G L O S S M A G A Z I N E

When you burn someone, you are pretending they do not EXIST. You are consigning them to a SOCIAL black hole. sly and despicable snub. Particularly when the odds of meeting someone on your lunch break whose sister you once did a Grease solo with, or who you once insulted at 3am, are never in your favour. The older you get, the faster these unwanted acquaintances multiply and swarm all around you. They are everywhere. A school friend, now a barrister (Consigliere, learn manners!) recently gave me the old social heave-ho outside the Four Courts. In his defence, he was wearing a fine navy suit under his starched winged collar, and I was on a broken bicycle. As my wheels screeched up to his circle of attractive young jurisprudents he looked fairly smartly away. History shrank and disappeared in the polluted air between us. All those teenage dance moves, all those Senior Cup matches we supported together. O shame, where was thy blush? Shame didn’t have to blush, because it had got away with it. There are traitors in all kinds of ravishing disguises. That of an intelligent and admired woman I have shared not one but two long and intimate conversations with. Last time we met, at a packed and jolly gathering, our eyes locked just as she was embracing someone else. I grinned, went to wave, as she planted a kiss on that woman’s cheek.

Her gaze slid down, her smile warm and her eyes bleary with Judas kissing. It makes you want to have a good cat fight. But it seems the cat fight, and even the dirty look, have gone out of fashion. Burning’s easier. Coming from a place proud of its marvellously wonderful tradition of storytelling does not help. Unless we have something brilliant to say, a fresh chunk of banter to bring to the table, we prefer to flee than fight through this nasty little surprise. You do have to respect those Continentals, who can plant two mechanical kisses on each other’s cheeks and bash onwards, barely smiling. They don’t feel they have to give a PowerPoint presentation on their lives to someone who really couldn’t care less. What we can learn from our more sophisticated neighbours is speed of delivery. Upon my safe arrival at moral superiority on this matter I have discovered it’s better to land the greeting then disappear: no idle chit-chat. So follow these steps, kind reader: meet eyes, say hi, bash on. If you had small talk with every blighter you met, your talk, and your already contracting intellect, would grow very small indeed. Sometimes, a person who burns other persons claims to be doing the right thing by all. Once I met my psychotherapist on a speedboat to Sherkin Island off West Cork. She was in the arms of a lover. I was on a hen party. She gently disowned me. I took care to remind her at our next session that we had been on a tiny vessel together. She told me it was out of consideration for me, not saying hello. I paid her the ¤60 she was getting to boost my confidence in human beings with a very shaky hand that week, very shaky. There are ways of pre-empting the social outrage. Stare people out. When, through sheer eyeballing, you manage to wrench someone out of their pretendy-trance, they are invariably alarmed and delighted and overwhelmed with happiness to see you – “Oh X, wow, my god, I didn’t see you there, X” they whinge, your New Best Friend. It’s really enjoyable to be part of that interchange. Because they burned you, so you aren’t glad to see them, and you don’t have to hide it. It’s not ideal, but it’s better than burning or being burned. Woman up – meet eyes and land the greeting, then get on with thinking about that sandwich. Otherwise we will have a society of zombie stares, chafed exfriends, and bounders everywhere gazing at imaginary birds in the sky. It was Norman Mailer who said that when two people meet each other on the street and say good morning, there’s a winner and a loser. Imagine no one says anything. Imagine there are only losers. Imagine you didn’t have to imagine any more. Can you feel the burn? ^

LIVING

HOME TO ROOST The child of Irish immigrants, New Yorker ALICE CAREY always felt drawn to Ireland. So she bought a pile in Cork ...

t’s lashing rain. I’m on my own and I’ve got to get into Bantry for the Saturday papers – all of them. Since I don’t drive, I hitch. All togged out in my old, but still sturdy, Barbour, I close the cow gate and slog down the long, twisty, muddy boreen. Market basket in hand, I take my place by the side of the road. Then I hold out a huge sign announcing BANTRY, hoping a curious stranger will stop to wonder what sort of creature would hitch in the rain. This is part of my rural life in Ireland. When I told my New York friends that, in a grand gesture of middle-age madness, my husband and I had thrown caution to the wind and bought a ruined, yet once elegant, Georgian farmhouse in West Cork, I heard excited ooh’s and ahh’s bouncing off The Spire. Yet, trying to explain why we did what we did to a neighbour dashing to work, coffee in one hand, New York Times in the other, was frustrating. My Ireland wasn’t their Ireland. Buying a decrepit bang of an Irish house is not the same thing as buying a decrepit Hamptons bang. Pondering the word “ruin”, I could see my pals imagining their dream: a house resembling White O’Morn cottage in The Quiet Man, or Downton Abbey, ensconced in an emerald green field in the countryside. Americans think Ireland is magic. Not leprechaun magic, but magic in the ordinary things that Americans covet and Irish people take for granted – like silence. I blame William B with his “peace comes dropping slow”. “Silence, ohhhhh … silence!” utters my pal in hushed tones, eyes suddenly darting to the street as a Police Bomb Unit whizzes by. “You are so lucky.” And I am. Right here, right now, in a large room in the “Big House” that my husband and I fancifully call the “solar”, I am enveloped by

20 | June 2016 | T H E G L O S S M A G A Z I N E

Alice Carey photographed at home in Greenwich Village, New York.

Carey’s Georgian farmhouse in West Cork.

The CONTRAST between RURAL Ireland and Manhattan is DRAMATIC. silence, birdsong, the whirr of the washing machine and the triumphant grrrr of the cat, as she pops through the cat flap with a mouse in her mouth. The contrast between rural Ireland and Manhattan is dramatic. Geoffrey and I live in a carriage house in Greenwich Village, so near to the Hudson River I can hear boat horns, train whistles in New Jersey and voices in the courtyard. These noises are a comfort to me. They take me away from my self and my writing. When I hear horns, I picture pleasure boats circling Manhattan full of excited tourists. When I hear whistles I picture commuters on their way down to Washington DC dozing in the quiet car. When I recognise a voice in the courtyard I know who is passing through. Diversion over, I return to my work with fresh eyes. Rural silence can be unnerving, especially in winter when nearby cows and sheep have been moved indoors for shelter. Without their animal presence, it sinks in that I am really alone up here on this ridge. I need voices so I reply on radio – Tubridy or Kenny to perk me up and turn my thoughts around, then the Angelus and onto Lyric, hoping for a little Wagner. Along with the power of silence, I was surprised at the land that came with the house. You’d think the girl who took to heart Scarlett O’Hara’s father’s advice: “Land, is the only thing in the world worth workin’ for, worth fightin’ for, worth dyin’ for, because it’s the only thing that lasts”, would have had an inkling about what it would mean to own some.

Instinctually, I always wanted land though I never reckoned how much. Maybe it was my being Irish. So when our peers were buying cardboard condos and co-ops, Geoffrey and I bought our first property out on Fire Island – a tiny, wooden Arts & Crafts catalogue house, floated over to the island by barge in the 1950s, and plunked on the sand. It was there that I planted my first garden on land that was mine, a tiny slice compared to the four The room Carey acres that came with the Irish house. I calls “the solar”. had no idea how big an acre was. To me it seemed huge. All I knew was that my four were overgrown with huge trees, brambles, holly, furze, dog roses and weeds, and it was wild and magical. Around this time I came under the thrall of a book, The Wild Garden by William Robinson. Thoroughly believing its credo – to work with the natural landscape, not against it – I began clearing hundreds of broken branches and dead trees from the land, cutting back hundreds of huge brambles and dead fern fronds, so fresh, new species could grow and thrive. It took months then. It takes months now. I do this every year, because I follow nature’s cycle, not the human one. A natural garden is hard if not impossible to explain to urban visitors. When New York friends arrive, all fired up to see the garden I’ve been hooting about, they’re stunned to the point of silence. To their eyes, it looks like nothing’s been done. Nothing! “That’s the point,” I say as we walk around the land. “It’s supposed to look like nothing’s been done to it.” Wine in hand, we stroll through fields Geoffrey and I have given names to: Irish Oaks, Carousel, Bluebell, Agincourt, listening to pals go on about what they’ve planted in the Hamptons: white geraniums, caladiums, variegated ivy and white petunias. We stand in ruins of a tumbled one-room, fern-filled Famine hut with an extremely high nave that I’ve named St Mary’s Without, as uncomprehending glaze clouds my friend’s eyes. As I explain that St Mary’s loves ferns and May bluebells, the pal suggests planting hostas. “Yes,” I say. “I’ve tried them, but they were all eaten by slugs.” “Really,” says my visitor, hoping for more wine. I don’t blame him. Hoping for a small wheeze of a compliment, I point out my four-metre high “rose wall” planted 20 years ago with 40 white “Rambling Rectors”. But since rose season is over, there’s nothing to admire but a green wall. They mention how they’ve just purchased a flotilla of David Austin roses – “Gentle Hermione”, “Jude the Obscure,” “Just Joey” and “Darcy Bussell” – because they like the names. With nothing left to say about roses, we go back to the house for more wine. Living in Ireland is not for the faint-hearted. When Geoffrey and I are back in Manhattan, I joke that I must start toughening up for my return. Which brings me back to why I love hitching. Hitching every day to Bantry brings me into contact with people I’d never get a chance to meet – people passing through, lonely people, kind people, sad people, smart people looking for a few minutes of companionship. I’ve never met one that I didn’t have a terrific 20-minute conversation with. I do believe that living in Ireland has made a new woman out of me. It’s another chance to grow up, make mistakes, make friends, own land and move forward. For that I am grateful. ^ From Manhattan to West Cork: Alice’s Adventures in Ireland by Alice Carey (¤14.99, The Collins Press) is out now.

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SOCIAL LIFE

NIFTY NOTIONS FOR JUNE DOINGS

GUCCI

... SCENT YOUR DRAWERS with a bed of roses. Red Roses Scented Drawer Liners (¤44) are part of a new limited edition collaboration from Jo Malone London and London-based artist Marthe Armitage (above), now in her eighties but still hand-printing wallpaper designs in her garden studio. While we long for a sun-warmed greenhouse retreat, the Green Tomato Leaf Home Candle (¤55) recreates that quintessential summer scent indoors. And who could resist an elegant glass decanter of nectarine blossom and honey bath oil? At Brown Thomas.

... HORSE AROUND In this, its 143rd year, the Dublin Horse Show takes place July 20-24 instead of the traditional first week in August. The best way to experience the Horse Show? As a RDS member, with complimentary admission, access to the Members’ Club and a complimentary stand ticket in the main arena just some of the benefits. Dust off your jods and fit right in. www.rds.ie.

... SLEEP IN POPLIN Treat yourself to some pjs that are tailored to fit perfectly: the Poplin range is beautifully made and will last a lifetime, unlike many of the overpriced satin versions we’ve seen. If you buy a pair of Sitwell Stripe Silk Pyjamas, you could team the shirt with jeans at the weekend to justify that cost-per-wear. Roll out of bed and out to the shops ... ... ESCAPE TO THE RIVIERA and catch the real gems. An Art Lover’s Guide to the French Riviera, ¤25, RHA, written by Patrick J Murphy and published by Artisan House Editions, directs you to the highlights of artists like Picasso and Matisse – its pages transport you to the region of brilliant light and colour, even if you’re going nowhere. Richard Gorman’s joyous abstracts are just as inspiring, making your heart sing.

22 | June 2016 | T H E G L O S S M A G A Z I N E

Artist Marthe Armitage in her London garden studio.

You can get your hands on a limited-edition Gorman print for ¤500; at SO Fine Art Editions, 10 South Anne Street, Dublin 2, until June 23. www.sofinearteditions.com.

... DISCOVER ENNA O’CONNOR Back in Co Wicklow after a stint in London working with Matthew Williamson and Roland Mouret, O’Connor crafts sharply-cut, fluid, modern designs in the finest fabrics, with expert input from master tailors in Nepal. Her autumn collection, including the elegant Triton silk and crepe de chine top, declares her a homegrown designer to wear, and to watch. www.ennaoconnor.com.

... TAKE UP VACUUMING No, not the boring kind! The sous-vide method, beloved of chefs – sous-vide meaning “under vacuum” in French – vacuum-seals ingredients before bathing in a temperature-contolled water bath. Low-temperature cooking maximises the infusion of flavours and preserves nutrients. At the Taste Theatre at Taste of Dublin, June 16-19, Electrolux will present their new SousVide Combi Steam Oven for enthusiastic amateurs. Meanwhile, keeping an eye on certain German supermarkets can result in bargain kitchen kit.

... HAVE A SUNNY OUTLOOK and relish every hint of sunshine, reclining with a paperback and the biggest, Gucci-esque sunglasses you can find. A cat eye shape flatters everyone: our favourites are Calvi by Prism (www.prismlondon.com). Further raise your spirits by swapping your morning latte for a cup of Pukka Turmeric Gold tea (¤3.50): all those antioxidants will perk you up no end. When the sun goes down, light up your outdoor space with pretty lanterns. ^

1. Calvi sunglasses, Prism, £235stg, www.prismlondon.com. 2. Sitwell Stripe Silk Pyjamas (£270stg) by Poplin.co.uk. 3. Triton top, about ¤450; www.ennaoconnor.com. 4. Elide Pink lithograph, Richard Gorman, ¤500, at SO Fine Art Editions. 5. Solvinden lanterns, from ¤8, at Ikea, St Margaret’s Road, Dublin 11.

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Victoria Beckham demonstrates her newfound flexibility. Below: Alexa Chung in New York.

weights builds muscle, in ballet we want the opposite; we want to be strong but lean and light. And we have fun too.” Why does she think the workout appeals to Beckham? “Victoria Beckham is a perfectionist,” Ghisu says. “She’s obsessed with the aesthetic. What’s more beautiful than a ballerina? And the results, being slim and toned, speak for themselves.” Forty minutes later and my French vocabulary has expanded to accommodate words like pointe, demi pointe, demi plié, grand plié and releve. My thighs (feeling anything but “relevé”) are burning and I’m clinging to the barre while trying to keep my tailbone tucked in and thinking “tiny waist!” as instructed. But the music is carrying me forward and even though I’m having trouble keeping up with the steps, I’m enjoying myself, encouraged by the grace of my fellow classmates. When actress Natalie Portman was training for her role in Black Swan, she turned to professional ballerina Mary Helen Bowers to whip her into shape. Bowers has since gone on to found Ballet Beautiful (www.balletbeautiful.com), a ballet-inspired fitness programme with two studios in Manhattan, and legions of celebrity fans, including Alexa Chung, Kate Hudson and models Gigi Hadid and Lily Aldridge who go to “transform, elongate and tone” their lithe bodies. “We target ballet-specific muscles to achieve that ‘dancer’s body’ shape,” Bowers explains from New York while I tend to my aching hamstrings the following day. “We do a huge amount to strengthen the core and tone the arms, making everything very lean. Celebrities and VIPs find us through word of mouth. We’ve always had a lot of very high-profile clients who work in fashion, but also regular women all over the world who can subscribe to a personalised workout programme through our website.” Closer to home, Orla Hannon and Jade O’Connor run Rebel Barre (www.rebelbarre.rocks), a similar workout that combines ballet, Pilates and high-impact interval training, at a studio on Merrion Square and another location in Temple Bar. “Our clients come back because although they say it’s tough, it’s not boring like running on a treadmill,” says Hannon. “We see all ages and fitness levels in our classes and we teach pregnant clients as well. Simply standing at the barre and working on posture is great for anyone who spends a lot of time at a desk. Although I trained in ballet, I first took barre classes in Los Angeles where barre is hugely successful and I still go back and train there at least once a year. We have noticed a huge increase in the popularity of the classes here and it’s continuing to grow.” Two days later, when my DOMS – that’s delayed onset muscle soreness – has finally subsided, I’m still thinking about my first ever ballet class. I learned that how you hold your body can completely change its shape, and how you feel about it. Everything my mother told me about good posture was true. So without further ado, I’ve decided to sign up my three-year-old daughter. She’ll thank me later. ^

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FITNESS

TURNING POINTE Look the part with these ballet class essentials Pas de Deux Collection, inspired by the dancers of The Royal Ballet. At Boodles, 71 Grafton Street, Dublin 2.

Called to the

BARRE

It’s the secret to Victoria Beckham’s ﬂexibility and Alexa Chung’s lean limbs, but don’t be intimidated by ballet, says recent convert SARAH BREEN

n a rainy Saturday morning in May, I make my way through the clatter of food vendors setting up shop in Temple Bar to a small underground dance studio where I’m about to participate in my first ever ballet class. It’s all Victoria Beckham’s fault. Two months ago she posted a picture online displaying her impressive flexibility, captioned “ballet classes are paying off,” and now here I am, an adult woman who can’t even touch her toes, about to hit the barre. Downstairs in The Art of Ballet and Dance Studio (www. abdstudio.ie), some 15 women of various shapes and sizes in their late 20s and early 30s are hanging up coats, shaking off umbrellas and slipping into pale pink ballet shoes. Most are dressed in black: stretchy cotton camisoles or leotards and leggings with the occasional pair of chunky legwarmers and a white wrap skirt or two. There are buns aplenty. By the time class starts, there’s even a man. “I had always wanted to try ballet and when my dad got sick last year I decided to stop putting things on the long finger,” Aoife Drumm, a 28-year-old swimming teacher tells me, stretching out her calves. “I wasn’t prepared for how tough it would be. After my first class I couldn’t walk up the stairs for three days. But I love it and I now find myself much more aware of how I hold my body.” Leading the class is Arianna Ghisu, a petite Italian with teeny tiny thighs of sculpted steel, who has been dancing since she was three. “Ballet eradicates stiffness and corrects bad posture,” Ghisu explains. “You release tension while engaging your whole body and strengthening your core, limbs and back. While lifting

26 | June 2016 | T H E G L O S S M A G A Z I N E

Satin ballet shoe ribbon, d2 per roll; www. danceworld.ie. White cotton T-shirt, ForeverB, from d28, from a selection; www. danceworld.ie.

Pink jersey halterneck leotard, Ballet Beautiful, d74; www.net-aporter.com.

Pink hooded cashmere wrap cardigan, Pepper & Mayne, d399; www.matches fashion.com.

White tutu, d45; www.bloch.com.

Pink Aspire satin ballet shoes, d13.91; www.freedof london.com.

Pink cashmere socks, Pepper & Mayne, d99; www. matches fashion.com.

Coastline calling Relaxed linen, sophisticated stripes, and the classic love story of when white met blue. Long Island sofa: from £2,040/€2,840, Grace scatter cushions: £45/€63, Corinium tray: £66/€92 and Basil pot: £14/€20

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PR E T T Y LIT T LE ( BLUE ) EX T RAS

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Blue ikat Cancun bikini, Melissa Odabash, d245; fedora hat; d145; both Melissa Odabash at Seagreen, 6a The Crescent, Monkstown, Co Dublin.

Colour-block bikini top, d190; matching briefs, d160; both Roksanda, at Brown Thomas. Espadrille charm, Thomas Sabo, d59, at Arnotts.

White cotton top, d34.99, at H&M. White ruched bikini briefs, Norma Kamali, d187; www.net-a-porter. com. Pompom sandals, d29.99, at New Look.

Gingham cotton skirt, Lisa Marie Fernandez, d505, at www.mytheresa. com. Cotton shorts with blue trim, d59.99, at Accessorize. Blue cotton dress, d59.99, at H&M.

Make a splash in a Baywatch-style one-piece. Buyer beware: these suits are more revealing than a bikini

From left: Teal swimsuit, d45, at River Island. Olive swimsuit, d45, at Cos. Yellow swimsuit, Bower, d205; www.mytheresa.com. White swimsuit, d24.99, at H&M. Pavé button ring, Brilliant Inc, d152.18, at Brown Thomas. White sandals, d12.99; white embellished bomber jacket, d99; both H&M.

Black rash vest, Alexander Wang,d255; www.net-a-porter.com. Brown leather sandals, d29.99; black earrings, d24.99; both at H&M.

GREEN PIECE Green is officially the swimwear colour of summer 2016. Any hint, from mint to emerald, will do. Check out luxury Irish swimwear label Mona Swims.

Amitola print halter bikini, Mona Swims, d165, at Brown Thomas. Silver double-stud earrings, d35, at Newbridge Silverware, Newbridge, Co Kildare. Burnt orange wicker shopper, d9, at Penneys. Orange sun hat, d19.90, at Accessorize, Dundrum Town Centre, Dublin 16 and branches.

Pink bikini top, d19; matching briefs, d19; both Cos. Green Careyes leather sandals, Aquazzura, d475; www.mytheresa.com.

STR ONG S UI T

28 | June 2016 | T H E G L O S S M A G A Z I N E

Oneshoulder is the new cut out one-piece.

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Forget about the bikini or one-piece dilemma, it's really all about the trimmings, writes AISLINN COFFEY

POPPY DELEVINGNE X SOLID & STRIPED A match made in heaven; famously welldressed Delevingne has worked her A-list magic on blossoming swimwear specialist Solid & Striped's SS16 collection. www.solidand striped.com.

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FULL COVERAGE A rash vest will protect the delicate skin on your décolletage. Think clean-cut and elegant, not surfer chic.

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POOLSIDE GLAMOUR This plunging one-piece with matching cover-up is effortlessly cool.

Silver braided hoop earrings, ¤79, at Pandora, 35 Grafton Street, Dublin 2 and branches. Stripe crochetknit cardigan, d970; stripe crochetknit halter-neck swimsuit, d550; both Missoni Mare at www.net-a-porter.com.

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SOCIAL LIFE

My GLOSSY

WEEKEND SANDRA CHOI, creative director of Jimmy Choo, enjoys family time in Battersea, South London

y weekend begins on Friday night when I switch off my phone and can dedicate myself to my family: my husband Tamburlaine and our two daughters Phoenix, six, and Cyan, three. From Monday to Friday I am consumed by work, so compartmentalising my time is important and I’m strict about it. Everyone knows I have a no-email policy at weekends. When I’m at home I am first and foremost a wife and mum. This summer, I’m really trying to strike a better work/life balance – that’s every working mother’s goal, isn’t it?

SATURDAY Saturday always starts with a loud and messy breakfast in our pyjamas in the kitchen of our home in Battersea, south London. It normally involves a heated debate about whether the children deserve pancakes or not. We live just across from the park and I love that there is a big green space within walking distance. Crossing

30 | June 2016 | T H E G L O S S M A G A Z I N E

SANDRA CHOI: Choi, who was born on the Isle of Wight, is the niece of Jimmy Choo’s wife. She began her career as Choo’s apprentice in East London and was appointed Creative Director of Jimmy Choo in 1996. She lives in London.

over Albert Bridge with its signature pink paint always makes me happy, especially at nighttime when the fairy lights are twinkling. We recently bought a Georgian house in the countryside near Bath and we escape there when we can – it clears your head of the buzz of working in the city and you get time to think and allow the great outdoors to inspire you. But I love spending downtime in London too. For lunch, we go to either a cosy Tuscan restaurant, LA FAMIGLIA (www.lafamiglia.co.uk) in Chelsea or THE ROYAL CHINA CLUB (www.rcguk.co.uk), so I can get my dim sum fix. They serve the best you’ll ever taste. To walk it off, we will amble towards Church Street to browse at ALFIE’S ANTIQUES MARKET (www.alfiesantiques.com) or go to a gallery. My favourites at the moment are SAATCHI GALLERY (www. saatchigallery.com), SERPENTINE GALLERIES (www.serpentine galleries.org), THE NATIONAL PORTRAIT GALLERY (www.npg.org.uk) and of course the V&A (www.vam.ac.uk), where the terrific “Shoes: Pleasure and Pain” exhibition has just been replaced by “Botticelli Reimagined” (until July 3). We spend Saturday night in, starting off with a gin and tonic. My husband and I will then have a cook-off, our weekly ritual, after the children has gone to bed.

Clockwise from below: Sandra Choi’s local green space, Battersea Park. The Fine Cheese Co in Bath. The Jimmy Choo 20th anniversary Memento collection. The pastel pink Albert Bridge, London.

SUNDAY We don’t do it every week, but now and then we will indulge in a full English breakfast followed by some leisurely reading of the papers. I spend so much of my time travelling that I’m often loath to leave the house on Sundays. The saying “the heart of any home is the kitchen” is very true in our household. I keep my clothes casual when I’m off duty – jeans, a great T-shirt or cashmere jumper and Jimmy Choo trainers. Things that don’t matter if they get food, paint – or anything else that goes hand in hand with young children – on them. We like to cook seasonally, so Sunday lunch will involve local vegetables and meat, red wine and something naughty for pudding. Puddings are my responsibility and rhubarb is my husband’s favourite – it is so simple and extra-delicious at this time of year, picked from the garden in Bath. We always end with a cheese picked up from THE FINE CHEESE COMPANY (www. finecheese.co.uk) also in Bath. I have a glance at my schedule and start to prepare myself for the week ahead, as well as planning the logistics for my children. I use this time to reflect on how grateful I am for the friends and family I have and for being able to live the life I lead. ^ In conversation with Aislinn Coffey. To celebrate Jimmy Choo’s 20th anniversary, Sandra Choi has designed Memento, a new capsule collection of 20 shoes and bags. The new Jimmy Choo boutique opens later this month at Brown Thomas Dublin.

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SHOW COAT Olive bonded wool coat; black silk camisole; charcoal silk trousers with lambskin trim; white criss-cross strap leather shoes; all CÉLINE FASHION NOTE: CÉLINE is at www.celine.com.

The countdown to the Olympics is on. Be a good sport in soft tailoring and subtle athletic details Photographed by MICHAEL DWORNIK Styled by LUIS RODRIGUEZ

THE BOMB Blue and red leaf-print sequin bomber jacket; white wool skirt; both MARNI FASHION NOTE: MARNI is at www.marni.com.

TRACK RECORD Black Pascale top with ribbon embroidery; matching black Elsmere trousers; both STELLA MC CARTNEY. White flatform slingback leather sandals, SPORTMAX FASHION NOTE: SPORTMAX is at Harvey Nichols, Dundrum Town Centre, Dublin 16.

SUIT UP Camel suede bomber jacket; matching suede trousers; both LOEWE. White, black and tan block-heel shoes, CHRISTIAN DIOR. Gold aviator sunglasses, CUTLER & GOSS FASHION NOTE: JW Anderson's SS16 LOEWE collection is at www.loewe.com.

JUMP AROUND Black, blue and white long-sleeve printed jumpsuit; white Samurai chain-detail leather loafers; both LOUIS VUITTON. FASHION NOTE: LOUIS VUITTON is at www. louisvuitton.com. Photographed by Michael Dwornik. Styled by Luis Rodriguez. Assisted by Alexander Boutin. Hair by Noah Hatton at Judy Casey for Aire Salon. Make-up by Brian Duprey at Judy Casey for MAC. Model Casting by Cindi Blair Productions. For stockists, www.thegloss.ie

JEWELLERY

1. Finely Coloured Papillon pastel-coloured diamond necklace, at Boodles, 71 Grafton Street, Dublin 2. 2. Gold Lika ring with emerald cut amethyst, d1,770, at Stonechat, Westbury Mall, Dublin 2. 3. Gold Panthère De Cartier ring with tsavorites and onyx, Cartier, d8,129, at Weir & Sons, 96-99 Grafton Street, Dublin 2. 4. Rock brooch with green tourmaline and diamonds, Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co, at Brown Thomas, Dublin. 5. Gold Scarab tsavorites earring(s), d3,330; www. aureliebidermann.com. 6. White gold Prism ring with diamonds, at Boodles, as before. 7. Gold Kalix open ring with Swarovski crystals, Atelier Swarovski, d249, at Swarovski, 5 Grafton Street, Dublin 2. 8. Green quartz cocktail ring, Tiffany & Co, d1,400, at Brown Thomas, Dublin.

HOT TROPICS Jaw-dropping ﬁne jewellery inspired by the exotic

oodles’ head of design Rebecca Hawkins, the gentlest of women, must be learning to grapple with Big Green Monsters. Every fine jewellery designer the world over is jealously eyeing up the rare coloured diamonds Boodles Head of Gem Sourcing Jody Wainwright brought back to her from his travels abroad, the raw materials for the new Finely Coloured High Jewellery collection. The stones themselves, exquisitely cut and set in white diamonds, are the stars of delicate and beautifully balanced pieces, distinguished by Hawkins’ unmistakably feminine handprint. “Because coloured diamonds are so special, we wanted to create a collection where the designs do justice to their beauty and rarity,” says Hawkins. The Prism Collection of rainbow gemstones is also in the Grafton Street store now, inspired by the work of Parisian artist Sonia Delaunay and the artistic colony of St Ives in Cornwall. SARAH McDONNELL. Boodles, 71 Grafton Street, Dublin 2; 01 679 0203.

T H ET G HL EOGSLS OM SA SG MAAZGI N AE Z I |NSeptember E | June 2016 2009 || 37 15

BUSINESS BUSINESS WISDOM WISDOM DID ANYTHING IN YOUR EARLY LIFE EXPERIENCE OR FAMILY BACKGROUND INFLUENCE YOUR JOURNEY TO YOUR CURRENT ROLE? Yes, I grew up in a family business with very hard-working parents who gave me the strength and motivation to become an entrepreneur. Despite my nursing background, I always knew I would eventually own my own business.

AN ACCOMPLISHMENT YOU ARE PROUD OF? I appeared on Dragon’s Den last month and secured an investment of ¤100,000 from Gavin Duffy. It means we now have money to purchase more stock and also to invest in an international marketing plan. As the master distributor, I can now commission the talent to do that.

HOW DO YOU APPROACH DIFFICULT SITUATIONS? I tend to step back, put myself in my adversary’s position and try to find an outcome that is complimentary to both parties without compromising myself. For me, everything is about the relationship. If something doesn’t work, I find out what went wrong and try to remedy it.

WHICH IS THE MOST USEFUL WAY TO ENGAGE CLIENTS OR SUPPLIERS? I love to meet buyers and retail staff face-to-face in store. To me that’s far more beneficial than sending a generic email and it helps to keep me in the loop about what’s selling and what’s not.

FROM THE DESK OF ...

Sandra Walsh

PHOTOGRAPHED BY AL HIGGINS

OWNER, CANOPI CREATIVE LTD

THE CV After qualifying as a nurse, Sandra Walsh practised in Ireland, Australia and the Middle East. She opened her first boutique, Sandz, in Mount Merrion, Co Dublin in 1998, before moving it to Ranelagh in 2000 and opening a second location in Blackrock six years later. During her time in fashion retail, she noticed a gap in the market for a stylish armcover product to wear under sleeveless dresses. She founded Canopi Secret Sleeves in 2012; they are now stocked by retailers all over Ireland as well as internationally.

DESCRIBE YOUR ROLE: I am the owner of Canopi Creative Ltd and the founder and master distributor of Canopi Secret Sleeves, which are stocked at Brown Thomas, Arnotts, Pamela Scott, Harvey Nichols and many boutiques nationwide, as well as at Fenwick of Bond Street.

YOUR COMPANY’S BUSINESS PRIORITIES FOR 2016? I’m currently expanding my team. I want to challenge the perception that Canopi Secret Sleeves are just for middle-aged women. We already retail in Russia, Canada and Dubai but I am just about to sign with a Northern European distributor in order to grow the business internationally. It’s very exciting.

HIGHLIGHTS AND CHALLENGES DURING YOUR TENURE? Having brought a new product to the market, a highlight has been watching it gain traction to the point where it is now sold in 200 stores throughout Ireland and the UK. I’ve encountered obstacles – it can be very challenging to get to the decision maker in a store.

WHAT KEEPS YOU AWAKE AT NIGHT? Very little as I’m an excellent sleeper! If a problem is weighing on my mind, and it wakes me up, instead of lying there worrying I will get up and take action. That’s a benefit of having an office at home. I’m also a recent convert to “Havening” which is a type of meditation created by Paul McKenna. I’m a loquacious person and I find it very calming.

HOW LONG DOES IT TAKE YOU TO GET READY IN THE MORNING? About 40-50 minutes, between skincare, applying make-up and dressing.

WHAT IS ONE CHARACTERISTIC A BUSINESS LEADER SHOULD POSSESS? The ability to listen is absolutely vital. Only by listening can you can learn what your customers are looking for. You should hear what they’re saying, not finish their sentences.

THREE PIECES OF ADVICE YOU MIGHT GIVE TO WOMEN WHO ASPIRE TO BE IN LEADERSHIP ROLES? Surround yourself with like-minded people; have incredible value in your own worth and don’t put obstacles in your own way. ^

MY WORKING LIFE:

THE WAY I DO BUSINESS 1. STRONG POINTS I’m very honest. My answer to most things is yes. If I genuinely can’t do something, I will admit it. 2. WEAKNESSES I can take rejection personally, which is par for the course when you’re selling a product that you have designed and are passionate about. 3.

BUSINESS My style has evolved. Although I love formal business dress, I am now just as likely to wear cigarette trousers and a smart shirt with wedges to a meeting as I am a suit. It’s more modern. 4.

WORK/LIFE BALANCE

I opened an office outside the home which helps compartmentalise my time. 5.

PLANNING FOR THE FUTURE I surround myself with trusted

advisers and let the professionals do their jobs.

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LOOKING THE

BEAUTY

Buffet

BY SARAH HALLIWELL

THIS MO N TH

WE’RE WEARING ... BRIGHTEN & BRONZE

HINT OF A TINT

Warm and enlighten skin three ways: ELIZABETH ARDEN’s (6) light-reflecting Sunset Bronze Prismatic Highlighter (¤32) adds instant sheen; a touch of LA MER (2) Bronzing Powder (limited edition, ¤70) – almost too beautiful to use – gives a flawless glow. If you prefer a liquid formula, CLINIQUE’s (1) SunKissed Face Gelée (¤32, from June 10) is cooling and natural-looking – add a little to your moisturiser.

DR HAUSCHKA Tinted Day Cream (3) is one of the loveliest we’ve tried: think super-powered Rose Cream. The trick now is to use skincare as make-up, and the natural oils and extracts in this cream ensure glowing, properly dewy skin – it makes you want to bin foundation and try a lighter, brighter look. ¤28.95, at pharmacies, Avoca and www.drh.ie.

DOLCE & GABBANA

BETTER BASICS

THE ESSENTIAL

SELECTION

We love DR BRONNER’S goodlooking new toothpastes (5) with natural, mainly organic ingredients like cinnamon and anise; ¤8.50, available at health stores and www.downtoearth.ie. Finish with a gargle of Bronner’s Fairtrade coconut oil to whiten teeth.

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NIGHT WORKER Ask beauty insiders what they put on their skin at night and inevitably they’ll rave about ESTÉE LAUDER Advanced Night Repair (4), the key night serum since the 1980s. Lauder whizzes have now infused a sheet mask, the space-age-looking ANR Concentrated Recovery PowerFoil Mask (¤19), with a double dose: you’ll look like you had twelve hours’ sleep.

Beyond the pale: tried and trusted ways to wear SPF now

esearch reveals that a high proportion of people still don’t use sunscreen. Very few wear it daily, believing that our less-thantropical weather means we don’t need to. This is madness; as any dermatologist will tell you, SPF is the one non-negotiable in skincare. “Eighty per cent of skin ageing is caused by everyday sun exposure that occurs throughout the year, not just at the beach,” notes Tom Ogden of Alpha-H skincare. A recent Australian university study has shown that daily application of SPF30+ effectively “pauses” skin ageing. We’ve been trying out daily failsafes with a high SPF and found several that are pleasant to wear and won’t clog skin with whiteness or greasy residue. Alpha-H Daily Essential Moisturiser SPF50+ (from ¤39, at M&S), with natural antioxidants, and Eucerin’s Sun CC Cream SPF50 (¤22) are two reliables that tick all boxes. Clarins Sun Wrinkle Control Cream for Face SPF50 (¤26) packs in all the French brand’s skincare nous with broad protection, while La Roche-Posay has launched an innovative Invisible Face Mist (¤14) – easy to reapply throughout the day – and a tinted Dry Touch Gel (¤19.50), both SPF50. Liz Earle’s Sheer Skin Tint SPF15 (¤29.75, at Boots) is also light to wear. Don’t forget exposed areas beyond the face: smooth excess cream onto hands and neck or invest in L’Occitane’s fragrant Almond Velvet Hands SPF15 (right, ¤21). Finally, if you’re already noticing signs of previous sun exposure in the form of dark patches, wear Caudalie’s VinoPerfect Radiance Serum (¤49.35, at Arnotts) under your sunscreen; it’s the bestselling anti-dark spot serum in French pharmacies.

5 6

BOOKING IN...

THIS MONTH WE’RE WEARING... a softer, subtle take on red lipstick: Clarins’ quiet hero Instant Light Natural Lip Perfector in limited edition strawberry is perfect for summer, ¤20.

If you colour your hair regularly, you’ll know the biggest challenge is offsetting the harsh chemicals involved. No wonder that the biggest thing to hit salons in the last year is Olaplex, a treatment that has emphatic results in rebuilding bonds in the hair, especially if you’re going lighter. Hair feels stronger, shinier and less dried-out. At last: colour salvation. At BROWN SUGAR salons, ¤25; www.brownsugar.ie.

BARE FACED CHIC BAREMINERALS’ comprehensive new skincare collection is seriously attention-grabbing, from the luxe, weighty packaging to the evidence of new owner Shiseido’s expertise, with a focus on creating healthy skin. We especially like the cleansers, including cucumber-fresh Cleansing Oil (¤27), and Blemish Remedy for teens (¤22). If you only invest in one item, make it SkinLongevity essence (¤55), a new staple for making skin feel more supple and invigorated. At Debenhams and BT2.

TAKE THREE Stop and smell the roses (in one of these elegant new formulas) 1. L’OCCITANE’s newest La Collection de Grasse scent is the elegant Violette & Rose De Mai, a limited edition with hints of rhubarb and bergamot to add intrigue to this intensely feminine blend. c62.

3. CLARINS Fix’ Make-Up is addictive – it wakes up and refreshes skin with the finest mist of elegant rose. Perfect for sluggish afternoons. c28.

2. We’ve tried many rose facial oils (Trilogy’s is an enduring favourite). INIKA Enriched Pure Rosehip Oil is an excellent organic option to repair skin and soothe redness. From c25 at www. feelunique.com.

T H E G L O S S M A G A Z I N E | June 2016 | 39

BEAUTY

HOMEGROWN TREASURES

IN SCENTS The lure of the unexpected seduces SARAH HALLIWELL

here’s a new mood in perfumery, and it captures the emphasis on authenticity and individuality that’s sweeping through fashion and beauty right now. “Consumers are increasingly wanting individual scents, something more unique. We’re finding that our customers are drawn to more distinctive scents with unusual but recognisable notes,” says Daniela Rinaldi, group commercial director at Harvey Nichols. Amid the vast choice in beauty halls, it’s niche fragrances – think Atelier Cologne and Francis Kurkdjian – that are standing out. “Fragrance layering is also becoming more popular with the rise of bespoke scent,” adds Rinaldi. So what are we wearing now, and what should we try next?

THE NEW UNISEX We certainly have a passion for scents that are powerful: strong and striking gourmand florals such as Chanel Coco Mademoiselle, Viktor & Rolf Flowerbomb and Lancôme La Vie Est Belle dominate the mainstream; the top-selling Tom Ford fragrance in Ireland is no-holds-barred Black Orchid, while Jo Malone London’s is Pomegranate Noir. Yet we’re now seeing a shift towards scents that appeal to both sexes and a trend for so-called “masculine” scents targeted at women, using traditionally male elements such as herbs. We can’t wait to sport Chanel Boy, launching later this month in the Exclusifs collection, with boyfriend jeans and a Breton top: it’s an aromatic scent inspired by the love of Chanel’s life, Boy Capel, with a traditionally male fougère (fern-like) accord based on lavender and rose geranium, and other aromatics like moss. Perfumer Olivier Polge’s aim was “to dive into men’s fragrance … and to show how well it could be worn by a woman.” Search out the unexpected. The luxurious Premier Crus fine fragrance collection on the way from Maison Lancôme this autumn embraces the trend to great effect, too; one sees lavender – generally categorised as a note in men’s scents – warmed with vanilla, and a touch of rose. Tom Ford has been instrumental in popularising scents that strike chords with both men and women: as well as Black Orchid, Tom Ford Noir, Oud Wood and Noir Extreme are bestsellers: try combining these with

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something lighter like Venetian Bergamot. That mix of masculine and feminine is seen in our enduring passion for Jo Malone London Lime Basil & Mandarin and Wood Sage & Sea Salt Colognes. Midnight Black Tea is the most popular so far from the Rare Teas Collection, and it combines delicious vanilla absolute and labdanum (an amber-like resin) with rich tea notes. At Harvey Nichols, Atelier Cologne Santa Carmin, a woody oriental, and Escentric Molecules, both unisex, are among the most popular scents. TRY: The Hermès bestseller in Ireland and the UK, Terre d’Hermès, a woody chypre with atmospheric flint and orange – it’s a bona fide classic. Smoky, woody incense Bois D’Encenses is the top Armani Privé choice for men, but we love wearing it too.

SUMMER LOVING For holidays, we want to wear brighter, lighter scents, and exotic hints of lime, rum and coconut will whisk us away somewhere sunny even if the reality is less than exotic. Estée Lauder’s Bronze Goddess always transports, while Tom Ford Soleil Blanc, in its glam white bottle, is a cocktail of beachy, sunny delights. “As summer is approaching we are getting more and more requests for citrus and green compositions like Cologne Indélébile by Frederic Malle and Acqua Viva by Profumum Roma, with concentrated pure Calabrian lemon oil,” says Marija Aslimowska of Dublin’s perfume boutique Parfumarija; she has also had to re-order James Heeley’s recently launched fresh floral Chypre 21, several times. TRY: Try OdeJo, flying off the shelves at Harvey Nichols, a subtle air of cucumber, lily and blue sea kelp. The intrigue is key, says cofounder Jo Levin: “I believe there’s a swing away from the blatant, towards something hidden that slowly reveals itself.”

FINE ROMANCE Romance is certainly not dead: we continue to have a taste for fabulous florals such as Rose D’Arabie, the bestselling Armani Privé scent. Dior’s top-selling fragrance in Ireland is J’Adore, representing 25 per cent of their business, while Coty’s is Chloé eau de parfum, ahead of even Marc Jacobs and Calvin Klein. At Parfumarija, Frederic Malle’s Portrait of a Lady is always in demand, as is Le Galion’s Sortilège, the fragrance once worn by Ava Gardner and Grace Kelly. “Classic scents are still very much in demand,” says Aslimowska. Indeed, Creed’s unashamedly romantic Love in White is the top female scent at Harvey Nichols. TRY: Yves Saint Laurent’s new Mon Paris is a flamboyant floral, fruity chypre with bergamot and pear, peony and jasmine, patchouli and musks (from ¤60, at Brown Thomas; nationwide from June 22). ^

Launched in February, Waters + Wild perfumery is causing a stir way beyond its West Cork base. The traditionally-made scents celebrate local ingredients that sing of their origin, such as rosemary, lavender and gorse, in a sophisticated and classic way: Tuberose and Frankincense, Rose and Oud, and Cedarwood and Cognac (which is ideal for Father’s Day, June 19). They are also a certified organic and chemical-free option. Love the ethos, and the smells. ¤95 each. www.watersandwild.com.

TAKE THREE Unisex scents to make you stand out from the crowd

AMOUAGE’s new Myths collection features an exotic oriental chrysanthemum, rose and vetiver blend for men, and green floral Myths Woman with narcissus, violet leaves and chrysanthemum. From ¤235, at Parfumarija.

The most chic take on scent to suit boys and girls simultaneously is CHANEL Boy. Think lavender, rose, lemon and sandalwood for a beguiling femininemasculine mix. At Brown Thomas from June 17, ¤175.

ODEJO is simply individual, from its minimalist bottle to its fresh notes, as refreshing as an icecold gin and tonic. If you love the intrigue of Escentrics Molecules, try this. ¤59, at Harvey Nichols.

BOOKS BEDSIDE TABLE

Author EM Reapy in her natural habitat.

What is LUCY CALDWELL reading?

Belfast-born Lucy Caldwell is an awardwinning novelist, playwright and radio dramatist. Her first book, When We Were Missed, was shortlisted for the Dylan Thomas Prize in 2006. Her debut collection of short stories, Multitudes, exploring the many facets of growing up, is out now. Faber & Faber, ¤20.55

GODS AND ANGELS by David Park Full of grace and a deep, deep truth, the 13 stories that make up this excellent collection centre on men and boys and unarticulated, or inarticulable, longing. It's incredibly hard to choose just one, but my favourite story of the collection, Boxing Day, about a teenage boy visiting his mentally ill mother in a grim seaside town over Christmas, is so tender it moved me to tears. It will stay with me forever. Bloomsbury, 017.99

THE GLORIOUS HERESIES by Lisa McInerney I was sent a proof copy of this morally complex and gripping debut novel set in post-bailout Cork but it arrived the same week as my baby son, and so languished under a pile of halfread baby books and breastfeeding manuals for many months. More fool me: it’s since gone on to receive rave reviews and has been shortlisted for both the Bailey’s and the Desmond Elliott Prize. Put it straight at the top of your own toread pile right away. You won't be disappointed. John Murray, 014.20

THE MAN WHO SNAPPED HIS FINGERS by Fariba Hachtroudi Fariba Hachtroudi is a FrenchIranian author who left her homeland after the Iranian Revolution in 1979 and didn’t return for more than three decades. The Man Who Snapped His Fingers, her English language debut, is a profound and searing novella about life under – and after – a totalitarian regime, and it’s also an unbearably moving love story. It very deservedly won the 2001 French Human Rights Prize. Europa Editions, 012.99

FLYING SOLO

Travelling the world alone was a learning curve for author EM REAPY, and it shaped her writing in more ways than one

here are many obvious ways that travelling alone is beneficial to writing: travel forces you out of your comfort zone, you meet many people from all walks of life, people who will tell you their stories. You find your own stories, things happen to you that you didn’t see coming. You notice many more details because you’re in an unfamiliar place, you’re paying much more attention. But there are many other lessons I’ve learned from travelling that have shaped my writing in a more indirect way. When you’re on your own in a faraway place, you have to be open. Open to discovering the country, open to changing plans. That applies to writing too. My novel, Red Dirt, was originally conceived as a short story collection about different Irish immigrants, post-Celtic Tiger, trying to navigate Australia. But one story caught the attention of a film producer who was interested in me writing a script version of it, so I turned that particular story into a novella which was going to be pitched. Though the Film Board ultimately turned down the proposal, the novel had taken form and life, and I had to keep going with it. I had to follow the new path and trust my gut. In Peru, I completed the Inca Trail as an inexperienced hiker. It was gruelling, my muscles were sore from the first day, it’s all uphill and as I tried to get to the highest point on the trail, at nearly 15,000 feet, the altitude was literally breathtaking. The breathlessness meant getting anywhere fast was impossible. The unpaved uneven steps were never-ending. We were in the clouds. It was misty-wet, the kind of deceptive rain that feels so light you barely notice it until you’re drenched. The task was so overwhelming that it had to be broken down or I was going

to break down. Once I get to that boulder ten feet ahead, I will take a break and deep breathe for five breaths. Pick a new spot. Once I get to that cactus, seven feet ahead, I will deep breathe for five breaths. Tiny achievable goals make any seemingly impossible task manageable. It was exhilarating to finally get to the top and to know it was all downhill from there. I think writing a book is a bit like this – it’s scary and unknown and the end is so far away, but you continue step by step, word by word, getting there slowly. You pick up lots of stories bouncing around between different towns, cities, villages, meeting locals and backpackers and everyone in between, but the thing no one broadcasts on social media is that travelling on your own can be incredibly lonely at times. But because it’s a self-inflicted isolation, you can’t Skype home and say “I feel so lonesome here, as I look out at a volcano over the valley, the sun is rising hot already, the birds of paradise are singing, the forest is lush green and alive, I’m going to have banana pancakes for breakfast, again, but I don’t really know anyone yet and so I’ll be eating alone. Maybe I’ll end up spending the whole day alone, pitying myself in paradise.” People do not want to hear this. It sounds like a badly concealed brag. Loneliness while travelling is a transient feeling and it will pass but while you have it, you might as well use it. You learn to sit with it, you have to get comfortable, be grateful for it. Enjoy your own thoughts and time. Make plans. Read. Meditate. Write ideas. Reflect. Bask in the silence. These skills have helped with those long days and nights when I was rewriting and editing Red Dirt and I feel a lot more comfortable now going into the unknown as I prepare to write my next book. ^ Red Dirt (¤10.50, Head of Zeus) is out now.

T H E G L O S S M A G A Z I N E | June 2016 | 41

FOOD CHERMOULA LAMB This is the nearest I have come to reproducing the taste of that Marrakech lamb. Of course I slow roast a leg or a shoulder, not an entire beast. When the spices are good, and freshly toasted, their fragrance mingled with the robust meat transports me on my own culinary magic carpet, back to the smells and clamour of Jemaa el-Fna. FOR 6 (30 minutes preparation; 4 hours–overnight resting; 3-4 hours cooking) 1 shoulder or leg of lamb, bone in, about 2-3 kg (or two smaller shoulders) • 1 small onion, finely chopped • 1 small chilli, finely chopped • 3 garlic cloves, finely chopped • 2 tbs cumin seeds, toasted and cooled • 1 tbs coriander seeds, toasted and cooled • 1 tbs ground paprika • 2 tbs ground ginger • Juice of 2 lemons • 75ml olive oil • Salt and pepper • 5 or 6 garlic cloves in their skins

SPICE UP YOUR LIFE

The right blend of seasoning, spicy and aromatic, can immediately transport you (and your joint of meat) to sunnier climes, writes TRISH DESEINE

he most delicious lamb dish I have ever tasted was at a fruit grower’s lavish home just outside Marrakech. We had been invited to a family feast after visiting their apricot preserving factory, where rows upon rows of women and girls who should have been in school, were perched on thin high benches, sorting freshly picked apricots with nimble fingers. Stewards with wooden sticks patrolled the lines to discipline any workers who might slow the pace a little. Feeling somehow complicit with the unfairness of it all, I for one was glad to leave the heavy, over-subdued atmosphere and the defiant stares of some of those girls. Baby number two was also not too many months away from being born (into an altogether rosier future) and so I was doubly pleased to be out of the heat and be shown into a vast, cool, vaulted, mosaic-walled room. There, my face, hands and bare feet were sprinkled with cool, rosescented water, before we embarked on one of the most lavish feasts of my life. The lamb came after seemingly endless tiny bowls of delicately spiced salads, grains and purées, a gorgeously aromatic chicken braised in preserved lemons and just before a sumptuous pastilla, eaten with our fingers, like so much of the meal. Hesitant at first – and quite full up already! – we broke through the crispy warka (brick) pastry, dusted in criss-cross patterns of cinnamon and icing sugar into the hot mass of almonds,

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eggs, soft onions, spices and shredded pigeon beneath. Along with the meltingly slow-cooked, mechoui lamb we had just tasted, for years the celebratory pastilla became one of my favourite dishes to serve at French dinner parties. We are spoilt for choice in our wild, wet and verdant country when it comes to lamb, and perhaps at times we take our luck for granted when, a little bored, we are confronted by yet another roast lamb, gravy and mash listed beside the turkey and ham on yet another pub grub menu. On Easter Monday this year, my plans to serve a superb roast, rolled leg of Achill Mountain lamb (crispy on the outside, pink on the inside with whole cloves of garlic adding their stickiness to pan juices simply deglazed with a splash of balsamic vinegar, was my thinking) were scuppered by a sudden funeral, leaving me home alone with my gigantic roast and my big Staub pot. But the roast had to be cooked. And the first sweet slice I ate alone, and quite unashamedly with my fingers – Marrakech style, I tried to tell my upright self, in the kitchen. As for the rest, doomed to reheating and rather un-festive sharing the next day, there was nothing for it but to make gravy, lots of gravy. It may not have been the most noble end for such a superb piece of meat, but if there were a prize for The Most Comforting Dish When Comfort is Really @TrishDeseine Needed, well, it won hands down. ^

1. The day before serving, put all the ingredients into a mini blender and blitz to a fine purée, adding enough olive oil to make a very loose paste. 2. Rub the lamb all over with the paste, going into all the nooks and crannies. 3. Wrap it tightly in cling film, place onto a large platter and chill in the fridge for at least four hours and up to overnight. 4. 4 ½ hours or so before serving, take the meat out of the fridge and let it come up to room temperature. 5. Preheat the oven to 140˚C (without the fan) and let the meat cook for three to four hours, basting it as regularly as you can once the juices start to run and turning it once or twice as it cooks. Pop the garlic cloves in around the meat for an hour or so before serving. Cover the meat with foil if you feel it is drying out too much on the outside. 6. Lift it onto a carving board and let it rest for a few minutes before serving. Deglaze the pan with a little hot water or some good beef or chicken stock, removing some of the fat if you wish. Serve with couscous, a leafy salad and a raw, spiced carrot salad to stay firmly on the North African theme.

MOROCCAN STYLE RAW CARROT SALAD WITH ROASTED LEMONS AND CORIANDER FOR 6/8 (30 minutes preparation; 30 minutes cooling) 1 medium lemon, organic, scrubbed, sliced into rounds and chopped into pieces • 100ml olive oil • 2 tsp ground cumin • ½ tsp ground cinnamon • ½ tsp ground ginger • Pinch of chilli • Grated zest and juice of half an orange • Salt and pepper • 8 medium carrots, peeled and grated • Fresh coriander and flat leaf parsley to garnish 1. Heat a good three tablespoons of oil in a heavy-based pan and fry the lemons pieces slowly until they brown and start to caramelise (about 20 minutes.) Add more oil if necessary – it’s the infused oil we are interested in especially. Leave to cool. 2. Put the spices, orange zest and juice, some salt and pepper into a large bowl, mix and whisk in the olive oil until you get to the consistency you require. Tip in the carrots and mix with the cooled oil from the lemons and as many of the softened lemon pieces as you like – it will be very aromatic but also quite bitter. Season, garnish with the fresh herbs and serve.

WINE

PLANNING A GRAPE ESCAPE

You will never regret adding a vineyard visit to your summer holiday itinerary, writes MARY DOWEY

re you holidaying in a wine-producing country this summer? Forsake the sun-lounger now and again to explore the local wine scene. There’s nothing like sunshine and relaxation to make even modest bottles taste ravishing. And there’s nothing like a stroll through the vines, followed by a sampling session with a revved-up producer, to stamp new discoveries indelibly on the mind. Unless you have a glass too many you’ll remember those flavours and that landscape for the rest of your days. In the pre-holiday rush to finish work it can be tempting to leave wine visits to sort themselves out on the spot but a smidgeon of advance research pays off. Besides picking up basic info about grape varieties and wine styles, try to make a shortlist of a dozen top producers so that you don’t waste time on mediocre wannabes. This can be done fairly easily via Google – or at least slip a copy of Hugh Johnson’s Pocket Wine Book 2016 into your suitcase or on to your Kindle. Concise and reliable, this slim bestseller remains

2016 Kube Gloss HPH 243x153mm (May) KItchens.indd 1

a much better bet for wine tourists than Lonely Planet’s bafflingly cumbersome Wine Trails. As the best estates are besieged by visitors, it may be worth making a few appointments in advance – especially in France where some producers still aren’t inclined to open their gates to the public. Even so, initiatives are finally being launched right across Europe to lure wine lovers in ways that have been commonplace in countries such as Australia, New Zealand and South Africa for decades. Check out your shortlisted estates to see whether some offer vineyard walks or bike trails, picnics, wine and food matching sessions, a restaurant or accommodation, any of which should make your visit more memorable. Now to a couple of etiquette issues. First: freeloading. It’s not fair to taste your way through a batch of wines and chat at length to a producer if you plan to walk away empty-handed. Even if you’re travelling by air, hand baggage only, buy a couple of the bottles you liked most

1. ERIC LOUIS MENETOU-SALON 2014. Alcohol 12.5%. Next door to Sancerre, Menetou-Salon offers pure Sauvignon Blanc wines similar to those of its ionised neighbour, but at less inflated prices. From O’Briens, d18.95.

to crack open before your holiday ends. Second: spitting. Get your head around it, particularly if you’re driving; in wine circles it’s regarded as wise, not crass. Spittoons make it easy to taste any number of wines without becoming a road risk. Of course, driving your own car opens up the heady possibility of bringing home gallons of wine. The Irish allowance per travelling adult is 90 litres (120 bottles) of still wine or 60 litres (80 bottles) of sparkling, a quantity generous enough to make the hunt for quality stuff worthwhile. Supposing you’ve been too busy having a good time to read up on exciting estates? There is another way – one often employed by importers on the lookout for new additions to their portfolio. Decent restaurants have close links with the best local producers, so every time you eat out, ask the sommelier or restaurateur to part with a few prized names as well as choosing you a stellar bottle. ^ @MaryDowey

2. TERRENUS BRANCO, ALENTEJO PORTALEGRE 2013. Alcohol 13%. Travellers to Portugal may drink mainly red but today’s cleverest winemakers are evening up perceptions. Heaven with a creamy fish pie or roast chicken. From Terroirs, Dublin 4, d19.50.

3. BADIA A COLTIBUONO CHIANTI CLASSICO 2013. Alcohol 13.5%. This polished organic Chianti is flavoursome without being overwhelming. From Clontarf Wines, Dublin 3; Searsons, Monkstown, Co Dublin, about d27.

20/05/2016 10:23

T RAVEL Clockwise from top: The view from Grand Villa Argentina, Dubrovnik. The African Suite at Hotel Rangá, Iceland. A scene from the Game of Thrones set in Northern Ireland. The spa at La Sultana, Oualidia. Mother of Dragons Daenerys Targaryen, played by English actress Emilia Clarke.

MAN in A SUITCASE Using locations from the hit television series Game of Thrones as his guide, TIM MAGEE is on a fantasy tour of Europe

y dad grew up in Winterfell. I had a drink at Christmas with Jon Snow and the Night’s Watch. I know a great pub in the (Norn) Iron Islands. I’ve walked where direwolves walk and dream of going back to a shack in the Kingdom of Dorne that does the world’s best fish and chips. And I love that my home of Northern Ireland is home to Game of Thrones, the biggest television show on earth. Are you lost? For those who don’t know, HBO’s Game of Thrones is the largest production in television history, a fantasy epic set in medieval times, with a cast of thousands. Filmed in several locations depicting the fictional kingdom of Westeros, there is a general rule of thumb that the green or cold bits are filmed in Northern Ireland and Iceland, and the warm bits are filmed in Spain, Croatia, Morocco and Malta. Game of Thrones also works well as a travel guide. Let’s start with Spain. The medieval walled cities of Spain have history less plausible and more violent than even HBO would risk. Make a pilgrimage to Seville and Córdoba, or the less well-known Almería and Peñíscola. The ALCÁZAR DE SEVILLA needed no work to play the Water Palaces of Dorne and was spectacular enough to distract from the hammiest acting of the series. It isn’t hard to imagine giants in the magical moonscape of Iceland. It was hard for poor confused Jon Snow to break his vows and virginity with wildling Ygritte chiming “You know nothing” every five minutes. The real steam for the scene came from the GRJÓTAGJÁ, a little lava cave in north-east Iceland that must have done something right, as the two actors are a real-life couple today. If you’re not up for schlepping up glaciers for love then make Reykjavik your base, and pace yourself – the town is as silent as the Quiet Isle until about one o’clock in the morning and after that it’s more wild west than up north. There are direct flights from Ireland now for the first time ever which makes this dream landscape a must. Stay in the HOTEL RANGÁ, an hour south of the city, a funky logcabin, star-gazing paradise, and don’t get freaked by the eerie lights. Winter is always coming around here.

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The leading man is not the handsome bastard Jon Snow, but Peter Dinklage who plays unwanted hedonistic dwarf Tyrion Lannister. Lannister, thanks to some brilliant and witty writing, stands taller than the Mountain, the Icelandic-born 6’9”, 28-stone Hafþór Júlíus Björnsson. And even Tyrion Lannister plays second fiddle to the women. Some women are objectified and treated like dirt, yes, but some are the show’s most influential, powerful and dangerous protagonists. Essaouira on the coast of Morocco hosted the dragon queen, Daenarys, with its red walls playing the role of Astor, where she meets the army of the Unsullied. Essaouira was a rock and roll and hippie hangout back in the day. That part of the world is now back in vogue and you can live like a Lannister in the striking LA SULTANA up the coast in Oualidia. Sibenik in Croatia is a handsome historical city that stands in for Braavos where the show’s most tortured and bravest kid, Arya Stark, goes through her savage apprenticeship. Dubrovnik doubles as King’s Landing, seat of the kings of Westeros, with LOVRIJENAC FORTRESS becoming the Red Keep. The island of Lokrum just outside the Croatian capital is turned into Qarth, and I’ve spent many happy hours, just an hour down the road as the three-eyed raven flies, in Ston and Mali Ston with its spectacular King’s Landing walls and even more spectacular seafood. On Malta, the dramatic star fort built by the Order of St John, FORT MANOEL on the edge of Valletta, will now probably be remembered forever as the place where Ned lost his head. Finally, much of Game of Thrones is made in Northern Ireland, but unfortunately – despite its beauty and having some of the best restaurants on our island – it is Beyond the Wall for too many of us. For some myopic reason we still imagine that part of our island as an otherworldy land of wildlings and random violence. Pure fantasy. Northern Ireland moved beyond that a long time ago. Last month’s elections were the first in which someone born after the Good Friday Agreement got to vote. It’s about time we caught up with them and ventured on the road trip that is the Causeway Coastal Route through some of the most gorgeous places in the world. Game of Thrones doesn’t need any more positive publicity but those kids who just voted do, so go for them, and go for yourself. ^ @manandasuitcase

TAKE A GAME OF T H RONES TRI P: NORTHERN IRELAND SEE: The Dark Hedges, Stranocum, Co Antrim, which doubles as the Kingsroad. Very Instagrammable.

SPAIN SEE: Alcázar de Sevilla, Patio de Banderas, Seville. It became the Water Palaces of Dorne in season five.

ICELAND STAY: Hotel Rangá, Suðurlandsvegur, and visit Grjótagjá, the hot spring where Ygritte seduced Jon Snow.

MOROCCO STAY: La Sultana, Parc à huîtres, Oualidia, and daytrip to Essaouira AKA the city of Astapor, home of the Unsullied.

CROATIA STAY: Grand Villa Argentina, Dubrovnik. The Old Town doubles as King’s Landing, the capital of the Seven Kingdoms.

MALTA SEE: Fort Manoel, Manoel Island, Gzira. This star fort was where Ned lost his head in season one.

THIS GLOSSY LIFE

THE GLOSSY GUIDE TO

SUMMER PARTIES Set the scene for summer shindigs

THE GREEN PARTY DECORATE: As soon as the paperless invitations have been emailed, Greens stock up on SĂ¸strene Grene (89 George's Street, Dun Laoghaire, Co Dublin) sustainable paper plates or buy online at www.talkingtables. co.uk. They arrange wild flowers and foliage, foraged, in glass jam jars and washed-out mustard pots. On the table, non-toxic beeswax or soy candles; in the trees, solar fairy lights. On the chairbacks, rugs from Foxford or Inis Meain. EAT: Groovy Greens serve seasonal sharing platters, fresh sourdough bread and fermented veggies. Carnivores pop an eight-hour brisket in the Big Green Egg (David Beckham's birthday present) and offer salted edamame with craft beer before calling everyone to their roughplank table to dig in. WEAR: Edun or Calvin Klein's Green Carpet collection. Otherwise, vintage from 38 Dunville Avenue, Ranelagh, Dublin 6 or Second Avenue, 24 Drury Street, Dublin 2. EXTRA GREEN: Try Gwyneth Paltrow's Chilled Garden Tea, with vodka, at www.goop.com.

THE TENNIS PARTY

PICNIC IN THE PARK

DECORATE: Wimbledon fever inspires nostalgic sporty types to book a court and round up the troops for a round-robin tournament. For fun, they buy a faux trophy and hang a tennis ball piĂąata from a nearby tree, keeping an eye out for the vigilant club secretary/park attendant. EAT: Players stick with Wimbledon traditions and think afternoon tea for the picnic basket or foldable trestle table: tiny scones with cream and jam, cucumber and salmon sandwiches, mini lobster quiches and strawberries and whipped cream served in pretty paper cups. DRINK: Lanson Champagne, Robinson's Lemon Barley water, and Pimm's No1, to which they add ginger ale, strawberries, cucumber, and a sprig of mint. Plenty of ice keeps it cool in an old-school Thermos. WEAR: As Wimbledon's official linespeople uniforms have been redesigned by Ralph Lauren, anything RL is up to the minute. But think traditional v-neck sweaters, white dresses and neat shorts at Tommy Hilfiger too. EXTRA SPORTY: A traditional green umpire's chair (www. amazon.co.uk) will be useful for supervising the kids at all subsequent events.

DECORATE: Dedicated Picnickers dig out the oldest, largest wool rug fom their mother's airing cupboard (families were bigger then) and stash it in a creaky wicker basket along with a football, rounders bats, a set of boules, melamine plates from Marks & Spencer and Laura Ashley's cut-crystal plastic glasses for the "lemonade". Colourful cotton napkins from Article are so much nicer than a roll of Bounty. EAT: Determined to keep it simple, they wrap egg mayo-filled Bridge rolls (back in vogue) in greaseproof paper but then cannot resist tying them with old-fashioned string, which takes ages. A wedge of boiled fruit cake and a six-pack of Tayto are musts. DRINK: Used to camping, Picnickers boil water for tea using a Volcano kettle and a few sticks or pine cones for fuel. www.kellykettle.com. WEAR: If the day starts off clement, they know they'll be in raingear come packing-up time. Every eventuality is catered for, equipment snugly packed into the boot of the estate. EXTRA OUTDOORSY: Combining a picnic with a zipwire experience. They wear leggings, and know to leave an hour after lunch before getting airborne.

THE LOOK: SHIP TO SHORE

Stella McCartney's eco fashion garden party. Re-create the look at home with props from www.prop meup.ie. Above: Blue Porcelain paper plates, c5 for 12; www.talkingtables.co.uk. Blue and white cotton dress, Zandra Rhodes, c99; www.peopletree.co.uk.

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White rattan furniture and a bit of grass, even faux, makes for a very Wimbledon experience. Above: Ivory belted wrap dress, Limited Edition, c74, at Marks & Spencer. Lemon barley water cordial, Robinsons, c3.40, at SuperValu. Biscuit Panama hat, c120; www.shevlin.ie.

Ikea's summer range of garden accessories includes striped cushions, c7.50 each, and colourful flatwoven outdoor rugs, c25; opening soon in Carrickmines. Above: Check wool rug, Foxford, c89.95, at Kilkenny, Nassau Street, Dublin 2. Floralprint canvas sneakers, Gucci, c475; www.net-a-porter.com. Fabric sandwich wraps, $30 for three; www.food52.com.

PHOTOGRAPHED BY DOREEN KILFEATHER. MAKE-UP BY ANNA O’CALLAGHAN; ANNAOCALLAGHAN@GMAIL.COM

THIS GLOSSY LIFE

WHAT TO WEAR TO A SUMMER OCCASION Tips from designer Niamh O'Neill "My summer collection is very ladylike and elegant but contemporary too, so ideal for occasions like parties and weddings. There are a lot of full, draped skirts – it's a very flattering and feminine silhouette. The sorbet-ish colour palette was inspired by a row of beach huts I saw in Australia last year. But occasionwear doesn't have to mean dresses; there's always the option to wear beautifully tailored pants or a suit. A full skirt can look amazing with a crisp white shirt or even a soft, cotton T-shirt. I like a high-neck blouse too; anything too 'pretty' can look twee. Shoes come down to personal taste but flats are looking really, really great with everything. And, if you're going to be on your feet all day, they have the comfort factor, allowing you to concentrate on hosting or just having a good time. If you'd like some extra height, a mid-level block heel is modern, or a higher, narrower heel is elongating. A hat is a fab finishing touch, especially at a wedding and always at the races. But you should never wear a hat just for the sake of wearing a hat – it should enhance your outfit rather than accompanying it. Something contemporary and clean works best. I'm a big fan of the milliner Martha Lynn, who wears a lot of Niamh O'Neill herself and always looks beautiful." www.niamhoneill.com

Pink duchesse satin coat, ¤595; www.niamhoneill.com. Pink ostrich feather pompom hat, ¤260; www.aoifekirwanmillinery. com. Gold cluster earrings, ¤95, at Vivien Walsh, 93 Monkstown Road, Monkstown, Co Dublin.

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THROWING A PARTY Tips from interior designer Roisin Laﬀerty "Parties are about celebrating and I don't think they should be taken too seriously. Planning the décor is my favourite part of the process. More is always more for me. With a garden party, plants and flowers are key. It’s all about drama so I choose large-headed blooms and foliage for maximum impact. Hydrangeas, alliums, ferns and grasses look striking when grouped together. For table displays, I prefer wild flowers and a more informal feel. I mix hydrangeas, thistles and fragrant eucalyptus in jars and glass bottles of different heights. I add potted candles for after dark. My garden is paved with patterned tiles in tones of aqua, green and blue so I stick to a pastel colour palette. Festoon lighting gives the space a festive feel. I keep things informal so that people can mingle. I love live music so an acoustic guitar is a must. Earlier in the evening, a good Spotify playlist will set the mood. I use Eathos (on Baggot Street) for catering. A dessert table is fun and Cove Cake Design makes unfinished pastel cakes that taste as good as they look. As for what to wear, a party is the perfect time to get dressed up. I normally wear head-to-toe black and rarely veer too far from that. This petalled jacket is by Pascal from Havana in Donnybrook and the skirt, although black, is very modern and feminine. I added a vintage necklace from Loulerie for a little sparkle." ^ www.kingstonlaffertydesign.com Black cotton kimono jacket, c1,036; www.danielleromeril. com. Moroccan cement tiles, from a selection, at Ryle + Company, Kilmacanogue, Co Wicklow. Festoon lights, c61.72; www.notonthehighstreet.com.

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PHOTOGRAPHED BY NATHALIE MARQUEZ COURTNEY

THIS GLOSSY LIFE

OUTDOOR LIVING

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