The Gloss October 2016 by Gloss Publications

LAYERING KNITWEAR / FAST BEAUTY FIXES / GROOVY GODPARENTS / NEW RAINY DAY READS / FOOD, WINE & TRAVEL

MAGAZINE OCTOBER 2016

with THE IR

CREATIVE

THINKING Entrepreneurs with style and courage

OUT OF OFFICE The secret pleasures of the business trip

EXCLUSIVE INSIDE VIVIENNE WESTWOODâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S DIARY

Making it

WORK for work REFRESH YOUR 9-5 WARDROBE

ISH TIMES

CHANEL www.chanel.com

BROWN THOMAS, GRAFTON STREET, DUBLIN 2

CHANEL BROWN THOMAS, GRAFTON STREET, DUBLIN 2

www.chanel.com

OCTOBER ��

WHEN THE DAY IS DONE Tweed dress; tweed jacket; scarf; all CHANEL.

NEXT ISSUE

THURSDAY NOVEMBER 3

AFTER DARK Cashmere sweater; doublebreasted jacket; wool trousers; all HERMÈS. Ankle boots, ZARA.

INSIDE THIS ISSUE 8 HUNTING & GATHERING The knitty gritty on winter dressing

12 THE LOWDOWN October’s best cultural events and dates for your diary

60 WORKWEAR REFRESH Tweak your work wardrobe with colour, texture and new shapes

PU B L IS H E R

JA N E M C D O N N E L L

66 GET A LIFE!

E DITO R

An exclusive look inside the

SA RA H M C D O N N E L L

private world of designer

STY L E E DITO R

Vivienne Westwood

AISLINN COFFEY B E AU TY E DITO R

14 MOODBOARD

68 LET’S DO LUNCH

Brunettes do it better, according to Susan Zelouf

Anne Harris talks ambition with

30 GOSH, I'M A GODMOTHER!

70 AGAINST THE CLOCK

Catherine Heaney on how the role has evolved

time-pressed

36 SICK AND TIRED? Overworked adrenal glands could be the problem

44 LOOK THE BUSINESS How to look on trend at the office

51 CREATIVE THINKERS Entrepreneurs share the secrets of their success (and failures)

SA RA H H A L L I W E L L

RIAI president Carole Pollard

Fast beauty fixes for the

74 WINE Mary Dowey on the red wine you've been overlooking

75 FOOD Trish Deseine is quietly revolutionising the roast

76 TRAVEL Stockholm embodies the best of Scandinavia, according to Tim Magee

54 UNFINISHED BUSINESS

78 THIS GLOSSY LIFE

Create a dedicated office nook at home

Arianna Huffington

Media mogul on her latest post

4 | October 2016 | T H E G L O S S M A G A Z I N E

ON THE COVER

3�

Wool blazer, DRIES VAN NOTEN, at Samui, 17 Drawbridge Street, Cork. Polo-neck sweater; cropped trousers; both TSE. Tobacco calfskin shoes, HERMÈS. Leather handbag, MARNI, at Samui. Photographed by Tom Corbett. Styled by Luis Rodriguez.

ART E DITO R

L AU RA K E N N Y ASS ISTANT E DITO R – FE ATU RE S

SA RA H B R E E N ASS ISTANT E DITO R

H A N NA H P O P H A M ASS ISTANT E DITO R

SA RA H G E RAG H T Y ADVE RTIS ING SAL E S DIRE CTO R

T RAC Y O R M I STO N CO N TRIB UTIN G EDITO RS

Polly Devlin, Noreen Hall, Antonia Hart, Catherine Heaney, Penny McCormick, Aoife O’Brien, Peter O’Brien, Therese Quinn, Luis Rodriguez, Natasha Sherling CO N TRIB UTIN G PH OTO G RA PH ERS

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Michael Dwornik, Neil Gavin, Renato Ghiazza, Olivia Graham, Neil Hurley, Lisa Loftus, Barry McCall, Joanne Murphy, Liam Murphy, Amelia Stein, Suki Stuart THE GLOSS welcomes letters from readers, emailed to letters@thegloss.ie. THE GLOSS is published by Gloss Publications Ltd, The Courtyard, 40 Main Street, Blackrock, Co Dublin, 01 275 5130. Subscriptions Hotline: 01 275 5130. 12 issues delivered directly to your address: Ireland: t49.50. UK and EU: t80. Rest of world: t115. Printed by Boylan Print. Colour origination by Typeform. Copyright 2016 Gloss Publications Ltd. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited. This magazine can be recycled either in your Green Bin kerbside collection or at a local recycling point.

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R E B O T OC

A-list PLAYLISTS ... inside Anna Wintour’s NEW YORK GARDEN ... dating a POLYAMOROUS PLAYER ... and Tipperary’s ARCHITECTURAL GEM ...

easons of mists and mellow playlists … We’ve noted a growing trend – celebrities issuing their favourite music (are we interested?). SIR PAUL SMITH’s recent playlist, revealed for Apple Music, included Around the World in 20 Tracks. Says Sir Paul, “I have lots of personal connections with people on the playlist. From VAN MORRISON who bought my house from me, to Led Zeppelin and JIMMY PAGE who I recently collaborated with, to BOWIE and PATTI SMITH who have been good friends throughout my life.” The same could be said about POTUS, BARACK OBAMA, whose summer playlist featured selections from JANET JACKSON, BILLIE HOLIDAY, ARETHA FRANKLIN and others.

achievements and challenges of women in Ireland within an historical and international perspective. Meanwhile, the DAVID HOCKNEY exhibition “I Draw, I Do” at Belfast’s MAC finishes later this month. The paintings on show include a portrait of LINDY GUINNESS, the Marchioness of Dufferin and Ava, who presides over the Clandeboye estate near Bangor. She got married in Westminster Abbey to SHERIDAN HAMILTONTEMPLE-BLACKWOOD, though he sadly died at the age of 49, bequeathing her the estate which now sells the eponymously named yoghurt. A percentage of the sales of her exhibition called “Cello and Cows” will go to the chamber orchestra Camerata Ireland. Her cow paintings adorn Clandeboye yoghurt which is sold in supermarkets across Ireland and also at Fortnum & Mason.

   Meanwhile the app called li.st attests to the growing evidence that listing is turning into an art form. Recent posts include LENA DURHAM’s Things I Ate As Prep for the Met Gala (see below) and BILL GATES’ summer reading list. RICHARD BRANSON and SHERYL SANDBERG are both advocates of making lists while DR DANIEL LEVITIN, cognitive psychologist, neuroscientist and author of The Organised Mind, claims the mental mini-break of writing a list is the route to a more efficient brain … See our stationery suggestions on page 56.    Film and fashion fans gathered at the Lighthouse in Dublin’s Smithfield last month to celebrate ten years of THE GLOSS as we hosted the Irish premiere of The First Monday in May, the documentary following the creation of the Met’s “China: Through The Looking Glass” exhibition and the Met Gala, spearheaded by Vogue’s ANNA WINTOUR, in association with the Audi Dublin International Film Festival. See all the photographs from the event and stay up to date with our Fashion Film Series at www.thegloss.ie.    MARTIN ROTH, director of the V&A, has left London to return to Germany apparently disillusioned by the Brexit vote. During his tenure, the museum hosted some of its most successful exhibitions, including the ALEXANDER MC QUEEN Savage Beauty retrospective, which originated at the Met, of course. Always impeccably dressed, he said in a recent interview that one noticeable regret about living in the UK was the slipping sartorial standards. “The sad thing for me is that nobody seems to wear a tie in London any longer – only the security guards.”

   FASH BASH: Guests at THE GLOSS Magazine’s premiere of The First Monday in May.

Acclaimed garden designer MIRANDA BROOKS recently shared her design aesthetic with The New York Times Style Magazine. Brooks did a postgraduate degree in landscape architecture before being an apprentice to the renowned perfectionist ARABELLA LENNOX-BOYD who designed the parterre garden at Airfield Estate in Dundrum. Clipped boxwood, long meadow grass, rustic trellises, self-sowing plants, twig gates and a sense of mystery are signature details of her romantic pastoral style as found in the Long Island home of Anna Wintour, that fills 40 acres. The garden has been an ongoing project for over 20 years. “She has given me and my family a very special world,” says Wintour. Praise indeed.    News from the dating frontline. A lady in her early 50s was surprised recently when a date asked her if she minded being in a polyamorous relationship. Apparently that means a non-exclusive set up whereby the man is free to date other women. That would be a negative. Perfect for letting others know your status are the new pendants by True Rocks in gold or silver. NICOLE APPLETON (ex of former Oasis frontman LIAM GALLAGHER) was featured wearing the Divorced necklace and there are other options such as Single, Married, Taken and a decidedly more upfront exclamation we couldn’t possibly print ...    The Belfast International Arts Festival (October 11-29) has some empowering events including 100 years of Emancipation for Women (on October 18) exploring the

Are you wearing a swinter dress? Too cold for bare legs, too hot for opaques, too wet for sandals, too stuffy for boots. The sartorial solution right now is a long-sleeved dress that can be dialled up or down, ideally adorned with petals or geometric patterns. Reformation is the goto brand for A-listers such as MARGOT ROBBIE and JESSICA ALBA, though Warehouse, Karen Millen and Marks and Spencer are also doing great versions. Teamed with a Mark Cross Grace bag (as in Kelly) they are on our wish list for autumn.    Kilboy House, Co Tipperary is the family home of Mr and Mrs SHANE RYAN and the subject of a recent cover story in Country Life, where it was named the “greatest new house in Europe”. It was awarded the Georgian Group’s inaugural Diaphoros Award for original, classical design. The new design took its cue from the original house built in 1768-71 for HENRY PRITTIE. Quinlan & Francis Terry was the firm tasked with the redesign which highlights Palladian symmetry and simplicity, while the interiors feature Colefax and Fowler fabrics and Irish antiques.    Finally, have you got some time to kill at the end of the day? How about reading to your dog? Apparently it’s been advocated by The American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals and can help dogs learn to cope with human contact. We’d avoid The Curious Incident of the Dog in the Nighttime. Otherwise for some mindless distraction we’re sticking to NACHO FIGUERAS’s debut novel High Season, detailing the drama of life on the polo circuit. Officially the world’s hottest polo player, we like his honesty: “It’s not a book that will win any Nobel prizes but I’m pleased.” ^

T H E G L O S S M A G A Z I N E | October 2016 | 5

HERMÃ&#x2C6;S BY NATURE

HUNTING

THE KNITTY GRI TTY

Winter is coming. In pursuit of hygge, the sought-after Danish approach to cosiness on which myriad books have recently been written, you will find us embracing these crisp, dark evenings in front of a crackling turf fire, with a glass of Bordeaux in hand. Why fight it? Fluctuating temperatures demand a winter wardrobe that can withstand the brutal cold of early morning as well as the comforting warmth from an Aga. The trick is finding a combination of layers that works. A fine-gauge knit (cashmere can’t be bettered) is a seasonal must-buy – wear it under a strappy slip dress, as seen at Valentino, for chilly evenings or peeping out of a chunky roll-neck sweater for crisp days. To care for your knitwear, always fold, never hang, or you risk damaging its shape. Machine washing is fine, but stick to a 30˚gentle setting. If you insist on hand-washing (where do you find the time?) never wring – stretch slightly while wet before drying flat. And embrace the power of cedar balls – hungry moths are no laughing matter.

8 | October 2016 | T H E G L O S S M A G A Z I N E

JASON LLOYD-EVANS

TRAFFICSTOPPING LAYERED KNITWEAR

GATHERING

Channel the Trend 1 9 2

4 3

JASON LLOYD-EVANS

SNU G G L E U P

DRAFT EXCLUDERS 1. Shaggy bolster cushion, d27, at MARKS & SPENCER. 2. Tigerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s eye and antique silver ring, d325; WWW.MULBERRY.COM. 3. Red Roses Cologne, JO MALONE LONDON, d109. 4. Oatmeal chunky-knit sweater, d74.99; WWW.LAREDOUTE.COM. 5. Red stripe fine-gauge polo-neck sweater, d19.95, at ZARA. 6. Retro Matte Liquid Lipcolour in High Heels, MAC X HELMUT NEWTON, d28, at Brown Thomas. 7. Shearling handbag, CHANEL, from a selection at Brown Thomas. 8. Small Great Things (Ballantine Books), JODI PICOULT, d20.45, at Eason. 9. Grey herringbone wool throw, d139.95, at AVOCA. 10 Precision Lip Definer, CHANEL, d23. For stockists, www.thegloss.ie

10 | October 2016 | T H E G L O S S M A G A Z I N E

9 10

UPDATE

The Lowdown WHAT’S TRENDING IN OCTOBER?

TALL TALES Four new Irish releases to curl up with this autumn I READ THE NEWS TODAY, OH BOY by Paul Howard An fascinating biography of Tara Browne, brother of Garech, racecar driver, Vogue model and Guinness heir, who turned Paul McCartney onto LSD. Picador, ¤19.99

WE’RE EXCITED ABOUT: COS X AGNES MARTIN, the upcoming capsule collection created by Cos, inspired by the late American abstract expressionist artist. Coinciding with the opening of her posthumous retrospective this month at the Solomon R Guggenheim Museum in New York, it echoes the subtle, evocative canvases and delicate pencilled lines and grids for which Martin is known. The twelve-piece collection is on sale from tomorrow at Cos, 6-8 Wicklow Street, Dublin 2 and at www.cosstores.com.

RECIPES FOR A NERVOUS BREAKDOWN by Sophie White

WE’RE HEDGING OUR BETS AT: ADAM’S FINE JEWELLERY AND WATCHES AUCTION later this month, where magpies in the know will gather to snap up classic Patek Philippe timepieces and beautiful vintage jewels. Keep a close watch on your chosen piece at showings from October 15-17. The auction takes place Tuesday October 18 at 6pm in James Adam & Sons Ltd, 26 St Stephens Green, Dublin 2.

Clockwise from left: The Cos x Agnes Martin collection. Wexford Opera House. Gold ‘Calatrava’ wristwatch by Patek Philippe, on sale at Adam’s Auction. Kearney House in Dublin 6, on view at Open House.

WE’RE CLEARING DIARIES FOR: DUBLIN THEATRE FESTIVAL, which has entertained the city for almost 60 years, and this year includes the world premiere of the wonderful new adaptation of Swan Lake/Loch na hEala by Michael Keegan Dolan. The play is interwoven with storytelling, song and an atmospheric new score created by Dublin folk band Slow Moving Clouds, which runs until October 9 at the O’Reilly Theatre. Also on the hitlist? Samuel Beckett’s darkly comic tale First Love, which runs from October 12-16. www.dublintheatrefestival.com

OPEN HOUSE DUBLIN, whose theme this year is Presence of the Past. As well as almost 90 tours of private homes, the spectacular buildings opening their doors include the Cathal Brugha Barracks, the Kodak building in Rathmines (one of Dublin’s few remaining examples of

12 | October 2016 | T H E G L O S S M A G A Z I N E

1847 by Turtle Bunbury Historian Turtle Bunbury’s country home of Lisnavagh was built in 1847, which got him thinking ... He tells the remarkable tales of that year, from Irish soldiers fighting in Mexico, to other world-shaping events. Gill Books, ¤24.99

ALL THROUGH THE NIGHT by Marie Heaney

Art Deco), the Dun Laoghaire baths and the tech district’s offices of Airbnb, Google and Facebook. October 14-16. www.openhousedublin.com

WE’RE SPOOKED BY: RTÉ CONCERT ORCHESTRA: PSYCHO LIVE, Hitchcock’s classic, which will be screened at the National Concert Hall, with the RTÉ Concert Orchestra playing the spine-tingling score, complete with screeching violin music for that chilling shower scene. Performances at 3pm and 8pm on October 31. Tickets from b18 at www.nch.ie. ^

A dreamy collection, edited by Marie Heaney, includes poems by Eavan Boland, Emily Dickinson and WB Yeats. Read to children, or even to yourself. A nice addition to the bedside table as the nights grow longer. Poetry Ireland, ¤16.99

COMPILED BY HANNAH POPHAM

WEXFORD OPERA FESTIVAL, which this year includes the farcical short opera, Il Campanello (The Night Bell) by Gaetano Donizetti, Riders to the Sea by Ralph Vaughan Williams which is based on the Irish play by John Millington Synge, and The Bear by William Walton, after a vaudeville by Anton Chekov. Tickets from b25. October 26-November 6. www.wexfordopera.com

This refreshing memoir and cookbook reveals how Sophie White has a delicious answer to everything life can throw at you, from losing a parent to falling in love. Gill Books, ¤24.99

MOODBOARD

I’m falling head-over-high heels for Bardem/Cruz, the loved-up couple making marriage sexy again.

“IT TAKES A SMART BRUNETTE TO PLAY A DUMB BLONDE.” MARILYN MONROE

“GENTLEMEN PREFER BLONDES, BUT MARRY BRUNETTES.” ANITA LOOS

TH IS M O N T H T H E MOOD IS:

BRUNETTE

I’m downloading Camille O’Sullivan’s Changeling on iTunes, the next best thing to hearing her live.

SUSAN ZELOUF gets browned oﬀ Thoughts that keep me awake at night: the latest act of senseless violence, food regret (too much or too little), identity theft, gum disease, melting glaciers, woeful broadband coverage across the Irish countryside and the likelihood of suddenly developing a severe allergic reaction to hair dye. I came into the world, like much of the population of Asia, South America and Africa, with a high concentration of brown eumelanin, meaning I was born with brown hair. Less eumelanin and I’d be blonde, with more hairs on my head than my melanin-rich brunette sisters, helping to protect my scalp from harmful UV rays. Blonde me would take an average of six minutes longer to get ready in the morning to go to my restaurant job, where I’d earn bigger tips than the capable-looking, smart-yet-sexy darker-haired waitresses on my shift, according to a survey conducted by Cornell University in 2009. Had I a predominance of another pigment, pheomelanin and a recessive MC1R gene, I might’ve posed for a John Hinds postcard or been cast in Riverdance, born a ginger. Red locks are almost an anomaly, occurring in only one to two per cent of people, with the highest concentration found in Northern Europe. Women’s Health magazine reports that redheads exhibit higher self-esteem than the rest of us and, if you believe a study done by Men’s Health, people with red hair have significantly more sex than blondes or brunettes: “You can sleep with a blonde, you can sleep with a brunette, but you’ll never get any sleep with a redhead!” says actress Jamie Luner. Healthwise, blondes are vulnerable to skin and eye problems, at higher risk of developing melanoma and macular degeneration, while degenerate brunettes are prone to smoking in bed; our increased levels of melanin mean we’re more susceptible to nicotine addiction, as the same melanin at the root of dark roots prevents our bodies from metabolising that pack of 20 as quickly as blondes can. Men’s Health also posits

14 | October 2016 | T H E G L O S S M A G A Z I N E

that potential husbands are more likely to choose a brunette wife than a blonde one. Put that in your pipe and smoke it, Blondie! In Game of Thrones, when something major happens and there’s zero network coverage on The Wall, the Knights of the Watch send a raven. Pre-email, strap a missive to a raven’s twig-like ankle and your message would’ve landed on the shoulder of someone’s bear-fur cape almost before you could hit send today. Ravens have a reputation for being clever, resourceful and somewhat devious. Crows and ravens, both members of the genus Corvus, have been feared and revered throughout history, exhibiting baff ling intelligence and even the ability to use tools, ranking them right up there with chimpanzees and dolphins. No coincidence that the collective noun for a gathering of these pitch-plumed birds is a conspiracy of ravens, a murder of crows. Dark brown and black haired women inspire similar awe; those on the U to Y end of the Fischer-Saller scale, developed to differentiate between shades of hair colour for clinical use, are seen as archetypically evil, naughty, witty, determined, brainy, adventurous and dangerously sexual – think Wicked Stepmother, Betty Boop, Fran Lebowitz, Scarlett O’Hara, Michelle Obama, Audrey Hepburn and Dita Von Teese. My dark roots have long-since turned grey, indicating achromotrichia or ageing, as cells in the base of hair follicles slow and eventually stop producing pigment. The colourless hairs appear grey or white because of the way light ref lects off them. Going prematurely grey, as I did, may be blamed on genetics and/or environmental factors, and although I bow to beauties who have chosen to embrace their silver-threaded heads, I’ve hit the bottle. Come the Apocalypse, my stockpile of drinking water rests alongside bio-identical hormone replacement cream, Ultimo body shapers and Lady Clairol in the richest, darkest, lushest shade of bitter chocolate brown. ^ @SusanZelouf

THIS MONTH’S MOODBOARD I’M WATCHING Public Speaking, Martin Scorsese’s documentary about legendary New York raconteur Fran Lebowitz (1), an opinionated brunette worth listening to. www.amazon.co.uk

I’M BINGEWATCHING music videos with FKA Twigs. (2) Channel her mesmeric style via YouTube. I’M BUILDING an art collection, beginning with a witty graphic by Dom Pattinson (3). Browse at www.artinvestments.com

I’M DISCOVERING my dark roots with Color WOW Root Touch Up (4). Ask your colourist or visit Brown Sugar in Blackrock.

I’M PLAYING WITH Moschino Barbie (5), an African American doll with a blingin’ wardrobe and attitude. www. thebarbie collection.com

SOCIAL LIFE

PHOTOGRAPH BY HARRY CROWDER

Clockwise from bottom left: The Josh Wood Salon. Quentin’s artwork. The Everyman Cinema, Hampstead. The Exterior of Granger & Co, Clerkenwell.

QUENTIN JONES Discovered by Sarah Doukas aged 15, Jones modelled before studying illustration at Central St Martins. She has since created short films for Victoria Beckham and Chanel, a music video for Miley Cyrus and illustrated Smthyson bags.

My GLOSSY

definitely get that Friday feeling at around 4pm so I have a celebratory drink with the two girls I work with in the studio. I had a baby, Grey, six months ago, so weekends are all about catching up on sleep at the moment – the opposite of what they used to be. But my boyfriend George and I have been good at continuing to do the things we love – we take Grey to restaurants where we stash his carrycot under the table. We won’t stay out late – that’s easier on weekdays – so weekends are about chilling and relaxing and recuperation.

On Sunday we start the day with a long walk on Hampstead Heath and grab a coffee at MELROSE & MORGAN (www.melroseandmorgan.com). My family lives in Primrose Hill, another reason for moving nearby. Sunday lunch is a big occasion and my mum is an amazing cook – she’ll go to the farmer’s market in Marylebone and see what’s fresh. She cooks really good Asian food, fish and Middle Eastern vegetables. It’s very eclectic and we always stagger home incredibly full after lots On Saturday evening we go out for something to eat of dessert and ice cream. which presents an opportunity to dress up a bit. Recent Before the baby we’d have gone to the EVERYMAN fashion buys are an amazing Gucci bomber jacket with CINEMA (www.everymancinema.com) in Hampstead red and silver embroidery, and some Acne boots with a to relax for the afternoon with a big glass of red wine. tiny heel. We love HONEY & CO (www.honeyandco. Now, we’ve installed a projector to watch movies at co.uk) in Fitzrovia: you can’t book but they always home instead. To really wind down, a facial is very seem to squeeze us in with the baby. It’s tiny and really spoiling – I go to the JOSH WOOD SALON (www. unpretentious, more like a café, and they do amazing joshwoodcolour.com) in Holland Park for a Sisley Middle Eastern food and great cocktails. Another treatment. It’s a real treat and means total relaxation. favourite restaurant is GRANGER & CO (www. I love to go to galleries like TATE MODERN (www. grangerandco.com) in Clerkenwell. It’s so spacious, we tate.org.uk), but tend to go on a weekday afternoon can easily put Grey’s car seat on a bench with us, and when it’s quieter – that’s one of the benefits of working the food never fails to blow my mind and my tastebuds; freelance. Sunday wind-down begins when I love the yellow fish curry with shredded Grey is asleep and entails early bedtime and cucumbers and nuts. Oh, and they make a binge-watching a series like Transparent, mean spritz too. The Americans or Mr Robot. I used to I also love dining out with girlfriends get the Sunday night blues and feel and gossiping over cocktails on a Saturday super-stressed, but since having Grey night. For somewhere glam we go to the our days have more routine and I don’t WOLSELEY (www.wolseley.com) to drink feel it anymore. ^ champagne and eat oysters or a steak tartare, In conversation with Sarah Halliwell. or we head to DUKES (www.dukeshotel. Jones’ recent Instagram @quentin_jones. com) in St James for excellent martinis. purchase; a

WEEKEND

Multi-media artist QUENTIN JONES lives and works in north London

SATURDAY On Saturday mornings I go to Nadia Narain’s yoga class at TRIYOGA (www.triyoga.co.uk) in Camden, so I’ll be in yoga leggings and a T-shirt until lunchtime. I wear Frame and MiH jeans all week along with Converse or sandals, and baggy men’s shirts, most of them damaged by paint. I tend to wear f lat shoes; weekends are great for taking time to walk everywhere. I’m also a bit of a hat person and wear a lot of beanies. Returning to London has been a real readjustment. I was in New York for two years and it’s such a constant sensory explosion – you just want to keep stopping and exploring everywhere you pass. But the people in London are amazing and the food scene is getting better all the time – I love discovering new restaurants. There’s also plenty of variety work-wise: I’m currently collaborating with skincare brand Sisley on an ad for their new fragrance, and also working on a script for a short film I want to produce.

Gucci bomber.

16 | October 2016 | T H E G L O S S M A G A Z I N E

SUNDAY

B O O D LES. CO M

FASHION NEWS

Wardrobe BY AISLINN COFFEY

King of

COATS MaxMara creative director Ian Griﬃths’ impeccable design credentials include a long career in fashion education. We asked him how to choose the perfect winter coat ... WHAT WAS THE STARTING POINT FOR THE AW16 COLLECTION? There’s always a personal story behind a collection. I was walking the dogs with one of my dearest friends near my weekend cottage in Suffolk – Aldeburgh, to be precise. She’s a television producer, the sort of cool, strong woman I think about when I’m designing. We were talking about the newly released film Suffragettes when we noticed that two houses we were passing had blue plaques on them so we stopped to see who had lived there. By some weird coincidence, it turned out to be Elizabeth and Millicent Garrett, prominent suffragettes – Elizabeth was the first woman doctor and the first female mayor in the UK. So we started chatting about early 20th-century women pioneers, like the sassy heroines of Irmgard Kuen novels who drove cars, f lew planes, won places in the science lab and the film studio. And the women that were the leading lights of all the ‘isms’ – Lyubov Popova and Natalia Goncharova in Soviet Russia, the Futurist Dina Cucini in Italy, the Dadaist Hannah Hoch and the women of the Bauhaus in Germany. I thought it would be interesting to take that spirit as a starting point for the autumn winter collection. WHAT IS YOUR DEFINITION OF STYLE? Style is not what you wear so much as what you don’t wear. This is the litmus test: you may love something but if, when you put it on, you feel even the tiniest bit self-conscious, drop it and wear something else. You have to be ruthless to be stylish.

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WHY IS A CAMEL COAT SUCH A GOOD INVESTMENT? Its classic design has been honed over years – the perfect relationship between material, volume, proportion and finish. Everyone remembers how it has been worn by legends of the past and present, from Hollywood queens to punk rockers – as a result, it has acquired iconic status of its own. It carries powerful messages and meanings; chic, cool, status, luxury. Try one on with whatever you are wearing, you will feel like a star. HOW DO YOU KEEP REINVENTING IT? In terms of design, I avoid anything tricksy. I always ask how I will feel about it in five years. That doesn’t mean to say the design should be anonymous. To draw an analogy, an Eileen Gray Bibendum chair isn’t the slightest bit anonymous – on the contrary, it’s highly distinctive, but it’s as modern today as it was in 1930. A coat isn’t like a dress that you may wear only once, it has to work for you. It needs to be designed by, well, a designer. HOW DO YOU CHOOSE THE PERFECT COAT? Think of a coat as a life companion. It’s going to be with you for years and years, so go for the best quality you can afford. You may have several others in your wardrobe, in which case, why not go for a bright colour or a bold design, like the bib-front washed alpacas in our new 2016 collection? But if it’s your first investment, think about a colour and a style that will go with anything.

“You have to be RUTHLESS to be STYLISH.” IS THERE ONE COAT THAT SUITS EVERYONE? Nothing works for everyone. But after nearly 70 years, MaxMara has perfected the skill of developing a range that has a coat for every physical shape, skin tone and lifestyle. WHAT KIND OF WOMAN DO YOU DESIGN FOR? I have a lot of friends who wear Max Mara. When I think of the Max Mara woman, I think of an amalgam of these friends who I have known for a very, very long time. She made it on her own terms and she wants to be taken seriously. Max Mara women love discreet luxury and timeless good design, but they’re not starchy – they’re cool, confident, and they want to show it. I don’t think age comes into it anymore. Women in their 50s and above want to show their cool side – and women in their 30s who are just starting out in their careers come to us for suits or a classic coat, as worn by Gigi Hadid. They are all my friends; I want them all to feel great so they can succeed in their lives. MaxMara is at Brown Thomas.

GRIFFITHS’ TOP AW16 PICKS 1. Colour blocking inspired by Gertrud Grunow’s experimental textile works. The easiest way to wear the look is this multi-stripe knit combo. 2. The new camel coat in plush teddy. It is actually made out of pure camel hair – the fabric was developed expressly for us. 3. A dress inspired by the dungarees that the Bauhaus girls wore in the workshops: leather straps, a mix of gold sequins, camel and Deco pockets big enough to hold a paintbrush. 4. A mannish coat cut for a girl. 5. A touch of the Berlin cabaret – a herringbone pattern sequin embroidered sweater with this season’s new pants and chunky heeled lace-ups.

A R N O T T S - H A RV E Y N I C H O L S - D U B L I N

POWER TRIO Blazé Milano designers Corrada Rodriguez D’Acri, Delfina Pinardi and Sole Torlonia

PHOTOGRAPH BY DEIDUIMONDI

FASHION NEWS

Blazing

SQUAD Every woman needs a sharply tailored blazer. Blazé Milano is the brainchild of three friends who met while working at Elle Italia. One of them, Delﬁna Pinardi, ﬁlls us in ... A SMART BLAZER IS A WARDROBE ESSENTIAL. TELL US ABOUT THE PERFECT FIT? A boxy fit is

modern; strong, fitted shoulders with a wrist-length sleeve to show some skin and jewellery. WHAT’S YOUR AW16 STYLING SPIN? Our motto is “every cool girl is half-boy”. Our blazers are meant to be worn oversized. We love them with jeans, a high-collared sweater, oversized shirts and bodysuits. They also look great worn draped on shoulders over a dress. AND FOR WORK? Pair with a matte-silk printed or plain shirt (Equipment is our go-to brand). A polo-neck sweater is

also chic – channel Diane Keaton in Annie Hall. IS THE ONE-BUTTON BLAZER THE MOST FLATTERING CUT? Single-breasted blazers are undoubtedly very f lattering but our best-selling style is the double-breasted Everyday blazer. Our focus in on creating f lattering shapes that give women more options. For a larger bust, we suggest a single-breasted Midnight smoking blazer with a carré collar for evening. WHAT

Black wool blazer, ¤1,495; leopard-print blazer, ¤1,340; navy wool blazer, ¤1,340; winter white wool blazer with contrast collar, ¤1,495; all www. browns fashion.com.

ABOUT AFTER WORK – HOW CAN A BLAZER TAKE YOU FROM DESK TO DINNER? Our leopard print blazer is a standout style that will completely change your look in an instant. Swap your f lats for a higher heel and you’re ready to go – this

blazer does all the work for you. Blazé Milano is at www.brownsfashion.com.

THE ONE:

COCKTAIL SWEATERS Last season’s hero blouse has swiftly been replaced by the fancy, frilly, feather-light cocktail sweater. Exceptional craftsmanship and a romantic sensibility rule with the likes of Erdem and Alexander McQueen leading the way. Glossy favourite ALEX GORE BROWNE (a former Alexander McQueen knitwear designer) has taken the season’s ruff led silhouettes to dramatic new heights. For ultimate impact, team her beaded zig-zag ruff led cashmere-mix cocktail sweater with tonal, cropped-leg cigarette pants and high heels or ponited-toe f lats. Closer to home, a new class of fashion designer is on the rise. Dubliner ROS DUKE, a cashmere knitwear designer, has just started her eponymous label. Duke’s new collection (she worked with John Rocha for ten years) feels modern and youthful. Also, LAURA CHAMBERS, previous owner of Tulle in George’s Street Arcade, is turning out some good-quality colourful sweaters and accessories.

24 | October 2016 | T H E G L O S S M A G A Z I N E

Ochre and teal cashmere sweater, ¤245; www.laurachambers.com. White Carnival wool and cashmere-blend sweater, Alex Gore Browne, ¤590; www. matches fashon.com.

Alex Gore Brown shapes each piece by hand.

Plum Carnival merino-cashmere mix cape, ¤1,100; www. alexgorebrowne. com. Left: Grey polo-neck sweater, Ros Duke, ¤500, at [Made], Powerscourt Town Centre, Dublin 2.

SOCIAL LIFE

GOSH, I’M A GODMOTHER ( for the sixth time)

This August, I became a godmother for the sixth time. The baby in question is the son of dear friends, and although I’ve been a godparent since the tender age of twelve (I know – nuts), I found myself contemplating the role with a greater sense of responsibility this time around. In practical terms, it’s because the family currently lives in Hong Kong, so being present in the child’s life is going to require a bit more effort and imagination on my part. I also know that this couple put a lot of thought into their choices and so I want to make sure I live up to the honour they’ve bestowed on me. Finally, it’s about my own past experiences: I had two wonderful godparents myself, and having done at best a patchy job with my first three godchildren – James, Thomas and Olivia (all acquired by the age of 17) – I wanted to make a better go of it with the younger ones. Luckily I got the opportunity with Honor, Jakob and, now, little Sebastian. In any case, at the risk of going all Carrie Bradshaw, it got me thinking about what it means to be a modern godparent: what the expectations are (both moral and material), how the role has evolved and what one can do to nurture the relationship so that it has real worth for child and adult alike. Traditionally, it was all much more straightforward – the clue is in the name. A godparent as defined by the dictionary is an individual who is present at baptism and promises to take responsibility for the child’s religious education and development. For those with a strong faith, this is obviously still one of the key criteria – that said, I had difficulty in finding parents of my own generation (even among firm believers) for whom religion was a factor in their choice of godparents. Most reckoned that being able to make a decent fist of renouncing the devil at the font was enough.

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TRUNK ARHIVE

Having grown up with two wonderful godparents, CATHERINE HEANEY examines how the role has evolved past sticking a fiver in a birthday card

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SOCIAL LIFE And in spite of varying degrees of lapsed-ness, the majority still chose to have their children baptised or blessed within the church. (Although that may say as much about schooling as anything else.) For people who don’t want to go the religious route, popular alternatives are self-styled naming or welcoming ceremonies, or those provided by secular organisations such as the Humanist Association of Ireland. Another non-traditional approach is that of children choosing their own godparents when they reach a certain age – an adult whom they want to play a special part in their lives. My cousin, whose children did this off their own bat (adding to ones they were given at birth), says her kids feel particularly close to these “chosen” godparents, not least because they have genuine shared interests. It’s a far cry from the largely ceremonial role of previous generations. For many over the age of 35, a godparent was a remote figure who might send them a fiver on birthdays, or else an aunt or uncle who was around anyway. Today, however, both more and less is expected – the emphasis has shifted from spending money to spending time, and shared experiences and a thoughtful, hands-on approach have replaced gifts as markers of devotion. Rather than making sure the child can recite the Angelus, the pastoral element is more about personal development, instilling values and providing them with a broader view of the world. Yet, within that broad remit, there are few hard and fast rules – search on Amazon for godparenting handbooks, and the options are mainly limited to Christian publications. Still, a certain sense of duty remains attached to the honour, even if most parents these days are realistic, understanding that it’s one more obligation in already busy lives. “I had really low expectations of the godparents I chose for my daughters,” says Ciara, a magazine editor and mother of two. “They are just people who are very dear to me and I wanted some of that to rub off on the next generation. I don’t expect them to remember birthdays, but if they do, that’s lovely.” A trawl of Mumsnet forums, and a straw poll of parents I know, confirmed a fairly relaxed attitude, although most felt birthdays ought be marked (one candid friend admits she can’t help noticing when her child’s godparents forget, and feels “like a judgy bitch” for it) – and on the whole, it seems godmothers are better at remembering than their male counterparts. Across the board, parents felt that rather than ostentatious gifting, the key thing was showing an interest in the child and checking in once or twice a year, whether in person (taking them out for a treat, perhaps) or in writing. One mum says, “my daughter’s godmother sends her long, funny, grown-up letters that she absolutely loves – receiving a surprise envelope in the post like that is far more special than a dashed-off cheque.” Occasional babysitting was also strongly endorsed. Many people use the yardstick of their own godparents when thinking about their duties. A former colleague remembers her godmother nurturing an early interest in art and culture – taking her to galleries and, on her 18th birthday, to her first opera – and she now wants to do the same for her charges. That might mean a trip to the theatre, or a museum or concert, but any outing together without parents can make for something memorable, particularly as they get older. A male friend recently took his university-bound godson out for lunch, knowing the young man would be studying the same subject he once

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had and wanting to share his interest in it. Similarly, keen to encourage her godson’s curiosity about the world, another friend took out a subscription to the kids’ current affairs magazine The Week Junior. It has been a huge success – every week he waits for it to arrive in the post and is now, according to his mother, better informed than she is. As for actual presents, it’s true that they still matter to some extent (just ask the kids), and you don’t want to get too sanctimonious – there should still be room for daft gifts every now and then. My own brilliantly madcap godfather had a genius for this – for my 16th birthday, he made me a member of Desperate Dan’s Cow Pie Club (on the basis that you’re never too old for The Dandy). The beauty editor of this magazine takes a similar approach. “I like the idea of being the scatty, slightly irresponsible godmother who sends pink nail varnish and Urban Decay palettes rather than something remotely sensible and worthy. And I’ll often send random small gifts and postcards during the year to compensate for being late occasionally with birthdays and Christmas.” She’s also a fan of the idea of something you can add to with each passing year – carefully chosen hardback books, for example, that will eventually build up to a personal library, or small charms for a bracelet. Laying down some wine or port from the year the child was born is another

For those of us who aren’t PARENTS ourselves, having godchildren is a welcome outlet for latent maternal INSTINCTS. future-focused idea for a christening or first-birthday present – the thoughtful woman who did this is planning to take her godson to Portugal to taste it when he turns 21. As she says, “I might not be able to afford a case of vintage port by then, but hopefully I’ll be able to manage a Ryanair f light.” Which leads to the knotty old question of appointing godparents with cash or cachet. It goes on, of course – choosing on the basis of wealth or connections (or preferably both) – even if few will admit to it. And in truth, there is nothing wrong with picking someone who’ll take your child on a nice holiday or help them get work experience further down the line, as long as you genuinely like and respect that person yourself. A fashion insider tells me it’s rife in her sphere, with the honour of being godparent often used as a strategic way to strengthen professional alliances or foster closeness with movers and shakers. However, if there isn’t a genuine, lasting friendship in place, there’s always the possibility of simply losing touch with a child if, in time, you grow apart from the parents. My friend Clare told me of one godson she hasn’t seen since the day of the christening. “And what age is he now?” I asked. She paused to think about it, before answering “Thirty-six.” Whether old friends or new, people without children of their own make perennially popular choices of godparent – in particular single women and gay men. Hannah, a television producer and mother of two, says this was the case for her: “Two of my chosen people don’t have children so I suppose that was a factor – that they might

have room for an extra soul in their life. But it turns out that these people are the most called-upon for godparent duties so they actually have a list of other godchildren to remember.” Scott, who runs his own creative agency, confirms this. “I have ten godchildren, and I’m the worst in the world. I have so much guilt about it – running down to the post office with a book and a card saying ‘sorry this is late’. And that’s if I remember …” Even so, he takes the role seriously, but sees it as being more than just a giver of gifts or a bastion of good sense. “I don’t think any of my friends signed me up for being responsible. I suppose I’m a bit of a wild card, but they wanted someone who will give their child an alternative, more rounded view of the world.” And in the long-term, he thinks that having led a less conventional, cosmopolitan life, he will be someone his godchildren can call upon when they face challenges of their own. “A couple of friends have said that if their child has any sort of meltdown – be it going off the rails in their teens, or questioning their sexuality – they hope that I would be a good person to talk to.” It’s something that most modern godparents naturally hope or aim to be – a confidant, a mediator between child and parents when necessary, a person to turn to in moments of conf lict or confusion. And it’s a two-way street. For those of us who aren’t parents ourselves, having godchildren is hugely rewarding, a welcome outlet for those latent maternal and paternal instincts. Sarah, a communications director in her forties, remembers being asked to be godmother by old friends at a particularly poignant moment. “I was in a really sad place. I was still grieving after my mother’s death, a relationship had ended painfully and I was coming to terms with the idea that I might not have children of my own. Then old friends asked me to be godmother to their son, and I remember going to their house to meet him, and having this real sense of peace. It was a consolation – I may not have my own children, I thought, but regardless of what happens, this child and I will always have a bond. And of all the people they could have asked, they chose me.” So what do the kids have to say about it all? I asked Lillian, ten, to tell me what she thought godparents were. “They buy you presents!” was her first response, before correcting herself to say, “They’re people who your parents trust – they’re like spare parents.” Which is as good an explanation as I’ve heard from anyone. Other definitions varied from “it’s someone who’s in charge of you if your parents die” to “they’re my special grownups”. Jimmy, eight, said it was the fact “that they belong to you” that makes godparents unique. So it seems they share the view that while treats are all well and good, there’s something about the relationship that runs deeper than presents. As for me, unless fate has a surprise in store, I probably won’t have children of my own, so those special six will only grow more dear as the years go by. I think of them as links in a human chain connecting me to their parents, stretching from the past to the future, from Dublin to London and Belfast to Berlin. And in our networked age, whether it’s through FaceTime calls or Snapchat, living in a different country won’t be an obstacle to contact with my godson in Hong Kong – quite the opposite in fact. Since I’ve been typing this, an Instagram post has appeared of a smiling Sebastian, proudly displaying his first tooth, with the caption: “This is one for the #newgodparents.” I like that. ^

Photo Michel Gibert, used as a reference only. Special thanks: TASCHEN.

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HEALTH

SICK and TIRED? Living in a constant state of stress could be the cause of your sleep disturbances, digestive problems and fatigue. The problem lies in overworked adrenal glands, writes KATE O’BRIEN

a cascade of hormone production by the adrenals that includes adrenaline, noradrenaline and cortisol,” he explains. “These hormones should theoretically work very well to keep our body within its normal mode of operation. Unfortunately, in modern society, we are constantly being subjected to all types of different stressors, and whether the stressor is work related, emotionally linked or even hormonally associated, this constant stress causes our bodies to release continuous amounts of cortisol as well as the contradictory adrenaline to keep up with these demands. This is termed ‘adrenal stress’, which is only the starting point. After a while, the adrenals cannot manufacture cortisol and with very little cortisol going around the bloodstream, one feels completely fatigued and this phase is termed ‘adrenal exhaustion’.” We all know that some amount of cortisol is essential. It’s the hormone that wakes us up in the morning. The problem is that high levels can impact nearly every system and hormone in the body. “Excess cortisol switches off our digestive system causing any number of issues such as reflux, indigestion, bloating and constipation,” adds Daya. “It affects our immune system making us more susceptible to infection and it affects nearly every hormonal gland including the thyroid, pancreas and the

re you among the growing band of women who can’t quite figure out why they can’t sleep, why they can’t lose weight or why they are always, always tired? If so, you’re not alone and many healthcare experts use the term “adrenal fatigue” to describe this constellation of symptoms associated with hormonal imbalances in the body. However, since the term was first coined in the late 1990s it has become somewhat controversial with much of medicine refuting its existence, while the burgeoning world of functional medicine is starting to understand the intricacies of these imbalances more thoroughly. Shabir Daya is a pharmacist and founder of the UKbased online health resource Victoria Health. He believes that adrenal stress is a modern misunderstood syndrome that affects most of us to varying degrees. “Stress, whether physical, emotional or environmental, can stimulate

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reproductive organs. Additionally, cortisol has a major impact on the nervous system and the neurotransmitters resulting in anxiety, sleep disturbances and mood swings.” What’s more, while the adrenals are busy trying to keep up with the demand for cortisol, they don’t produce sufficient energising hormones resulting in tiredness and fatigue and, although the body may be tired, sleep is prone to disruption. Traditional Chinese medicine has its own spin on this, as Paul Mc Carthy, Founder of the Summerhill Clinic and Academy of Classical Chinese Medicine in Dublin explains: “The signs and symptoms attributed to ‘adrenal burnout’ are similar to energetic disharmonies such as Kidney Yin or Yang Deficiency, or imbalances between Kidney and Heart or Kidney and Spleen. These terms, Kidney and Spleen, are energetic concepts and don’t reflect the organs as they are described in western anatomy and physiology, but in essence 20 people with the ‘diagnosis’ of adrenal burnout may all be treated quite differently, with a combination of acupuncture, herbal medicine, nutritional advise and lifestyle changes, depending on their unique circumstances.” Dr Silvano Mascadri from Espace Henri Chenot wellness clinic at Palace Merano in Italy describes adrenal burnout as “a condition in which the adrenal glands fail to produce an appropriate and necessary amount of hormones needed for energy production, maintenance of blood sugar levels, immunity and the healthy digestion of nutrients.” In many cases, the problem is linked to an excessive amount of

GETTY IMAGES

“This constant STRESS causes our bodies to release continuous amounts of CORTISOL as well as contradictory adrenaline.”

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HEALTH hormones, most especially cortisol, generated by intense periods of stress. “Cortisol attacks our body in different ways, from mental confusion and irritability to digestive disorders like irritable bowel syndrome (IBS), depression, anxiety, immune system deficiency, excessive fatigue, sudden weight loss or gain and more. The hippocampus [the part of the brain with the largest deposits of cortisol receptors] wasn’t ‘designed’ to respond continuously to stress, but as many of us live with the hippocampus constantly on, this is where the real danger is,” she warns. Cork-based nutritional therapist Karen Ward no longer buys into the concept of “adrenal burnout” as she believes that science has a totally different spin on HPA-Axis dysfunction (or HypothalamicAdrenal Axis dysfunction). “Instead of throwing lots of nutrients at the adrenals, such as B vitamins and high dose vitamin C, what has emerged is that it’s the brain, its stress response and the gut that need support to help a person coming back from ‘burnout’.” Ward sees lots of exhausted people, mostly women, at her clinic outside Kinsale, but she says it’s not adrenal fatigue that they suffer from, as the adrenals continue to function, unless of course, Addison’s disease or Cushing’s, both full blown autoimmune conditions, are diagnosed. In essence, it’s a breakdown in communication between the brain, the pituitary gland and the adrenals, primarily the result of chronic stress and all that accompanies it. “Even two glasses of red wine a night can affect how the body uses cortisol if the liver is already a little toxic,” she warns.

She is adamant that practitioners need to fully understand where the dysfunction is. “Testing is key and the DUTCH test (Dried Urinary Total Cortisol) provides the most comprehensive diagnosis possible. Once we dig deeper to the root cause, multiple therapeutic interventions are possible including adaptogenic herbs, specific phospholipids, along with other dietary and lifestyle measures to support patients return to a state of internal balance.” Dr Carrie Jones relies on DUTCH too. A naturopathic doctor specialising in hormones and women’s’ health based in Portland, Oregon, she believes that the current focus on adrenal fatigue is misleading. “The symptoms are very real,” she says, “but we’re all blaming the adrenal glands when we need to think bigger. We need to look to outside triggers like the brain, viruses, our fat tissue and obesity, amongst many other possible causes. We need to find the cause and not just blame the glands.” She understands why medical doctors may be sceptical about this adrenal story. “The adrenal glands don’t go through menopause like the ovaries do, so I can see why they [the medical community] say that they don’t give out and shut down. But there is something seriously wrong now that is greatly affecting the quality of the adrenal hormonal output and sadly our society is getting sicker.” While every discipline has their own specific therapeutic nuances, they are in unison on some basic lifestyle measures that will help reset our natural body rhythms.

“Even two glasses of red WINE can affect how the body uses CORTISOL if the liver is already toxic.”

#T H E A T R E O F C H R I S T M A S

Join The Gloss Magazine, Brown Thomas and Liam Dewis, Fragrance Expert for Jo Malone London, for an evening of fabulous fantasy. Magic and mayhem! Romance and spectacle galore! Christmastime is here! Let us treat you to festive fizz* and canapés whilst you enjoy a harlequinade performance spectacle. Let our Stylists assist you with all your gift giving** needs and add the perfect finishing touch to your Christmas Tree this year with a ceramic Christmas bauble, personalised with your initials, exclusively available at The Gloss Reader Event. Wednesday 16th November 7pm – 9pm The Dean Hotel 33 Harcourt Street, Dublin 2 €60 booking fee.*** Limited spaces. Please RSVP to the Jo Malone™ Boutique Brown Thomas Dublin 01 617 1181

* Customers must be 18 or over. **Only Credit Card/Debit Card payments will be possible at the event. ***Booking fee fully redeemable against purchases on the night. Guests will also receive a Jo Malone™ gift bag per guest.

38 | October 2016 | T H E G L O S S M A G A Z I N E

Most notable among these are: relaxing (many of us still need to “learn” this basic prerequisite), unplugging from technology (especially in the evening), exercising moderately, getting adequate sleep, eating a diet rich in healthy fats, with moderate protein and low in stimulants and refined carbohydrates, and taking care of our gut. To quote Jones: “Everything is a balance and we are just not very balanced now.” ^

WHAT SUPP? Dr Carrie Jones’s top herbal recommendations ASHWAGANDH Ayurvedic herb restorative to the adrenal glands, the immune system and the thyroid PANAX QUINQUEFOLIUS (AMERICAN GINSENG) Adaptogen for the adrenals and all over health tonic. ELEUTHEROCOCCUS SENTICOSUS: Adaptogen for the adrenals and helps reduce anxiety and improve focus. CORDYCEPS SINENSIS: From the fungi family is an immune and kidney tonic and helps support HPA axis communication. Always consult your healthcare provider before taking any of the above and avoid if pregnant or breastfeeding.

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BUSINESS BUSINESS WISDOM WISDOM DID ANYTHING IN YOUR FAMILY BACKGROUND INFLUENCE YOUR JOURNEY TO YOUR CURRENT ROLE? My parents instilled a strong work ethic in each of us – all my school holidays and weekends were spent working in the family shop. Being part of a small community, I saw firsthand how teamwork can deliver great results, whether that was achieving a Tidy Towns award, or fundraising for charity. My parents also instilled in me a strong sense of independence, equal opportunity and accountability. All of these experiences have been the foundation stones on which I have built my career, and still remain core values.

THE ACCOMPLISHMENT YOU ARE MOST PROUD OF? Well, this is a joint one with my husband, Michael – we have three fantastic children, and I am extremely proud of them.

HOW YOU APPROACH DIFFICULT SITUATIONS? I am known for being calm. I always try and stand back and see what is actually going on, before rushing to action.

HOW LONG DOES IT TAKE YOU TO GET READY IN THE MORNING? Not long! I tend to leave out my clothes the night before and then its less than 20 minutes in the morning from bed to car.

PHOTOGRAPH BY DOREEN KILFEATHER

FROM THE DESK OF ...

THE CV A graduate of the Irish Management Institute and Trinity College, Kate Quane began her management career at AIB, where she worked for 30 years in various roles, including Head of Learning and Development. In 2012, she retrained as an executive coach and joined Praesta Ireland two years later. To date, she has coached clients in the pharmaceutical, technology, financial, nonprofit and public service sectors.

THE COMPANY? The International Praesta Group is the world’s leading specialised executive coaching company. Today we have offices in some 15 international locations, including Ireland.

DESCRIBE YOUR ROLE: I work with high-performing senior leaders and teams who want to up their game and apply their honed skills productively in the workplace. We provide neutral territory, a safe space to think out loud, where executives in senior roles can develop their edge.

HOW CAN COACHING ENLIGHTEN? We work with clients to help them recognise patterns of behaviour or attitudes that might impact their effectiveness. We give real feedback and we can totally relate to the pressures and business issues. It is a valuable form of selfinvestment for clients who want to retain career momentum.

HIGHLIGHTS AND CHALLENGES DURING YOUR TENURE? Over the years, I have had the opportunity to work with some really talented individuals, large teams and great customers. There were many highlights in my AIB career, as I held many roles during my tenure. One of the key challenges is the usual one for women, how to maintain the elusive work/family life balance. Since joining Praesta, I have worked with some great leaders in Irish business and have had the opportunity for continuous learning and growth.

Kate Quane

EXECUTIVE COACH, PRAESTA IRELAND WHAT KEEPS YOU AWAKE AT NIGHT?

Honestly, not much. I’m a great believer in the power of the subconscious ... I tend to sleep on my worries and they always seem a little different the following morning.

A CHARACTERISTIC YOU BELIEVE A BUSINESS LEADER SHOULD POSSESS? Self-belief. Leadership can be a lonely spot.

WHAT IS THE MOST USEFUL WAY TO ENGAGE CLIENTS? It depends on the client and what is right for them. I really believe in the importance of networking – spending time with colleagues in the wider industry offers an opportunity for fresh perspective and for collaboration.

ADVICE TO WOMEN WHO ASPIRE TO BE IN LEADERSHIP ROLES? Share your unique views and ideas – do not shy away from being seen and heard and do not be afraid of feedback, even the challenging stuff is an opportunity for growth. Listen actively, understanding where the other person is coming from – it is the foundation stone for relationship building which is critical in today’s business world. The support of a mentor or coach is an invaluable investment. ^

MY WORKING LIFE:

THE WAY I DO BUSINESS 1. WORK/LIFE BALANCE: Balance is a personal thing ... what is right for one may not be right for someone else. In general, I think it is really important to enjoy your work, because if you are feeling constant pressure, the quality of the time you spend outside work will be diminished. 2. YOUR STRONG

POINTS? I’m a good listener and love a bit of fun. 3. WEAKNESSES? I have a very strong sense of fairness and justice and sometimes it gets me into trouble because I feel I must speak out. 4. LOOKING THE BUSINESS I love clothes, but am not a slave to fashion ... I go with what suits me and enjoy boutique shopping for something a little different.

5. PLANNING FOR THE FUTURE I come from a generation where the importance of “a good pensionable job” was drilled into us. Investing early in your pension is critical to support a retirement free from financial worries.

42 | October 2016 | T H E G L O S S M A G A Z I N E

LOOK THE BUSINESS

MAKING IT WORK WHILE YOU WORK Listen, it's not as if we didn't go to work all summer long, save for those couple of days or weeks off, but somehow – are we hardwired from childhood for the end of school holidays? – the autumn seems like a return. To cold, dark mornings, longer commutes, increased workload as we hurtle towards financial year end? Let's see it instead as an opportunity to rewrite the handbook – after all, we are told, we must be willing and able to reinvent ourselves. Re-start your year now: Appraise your wardrobe – does it send the message you want? Find out how other professional women annually reboot their look, overleaf. Do you have a creative idea you are keen to turn into a business? Be galvanised by entrepreneurs on page 51. Would creating a home office make you feel you were in control of those work-related calls and emails that you have to tackle after-hours? There's inspiration on page 54. Could you proactively turn travelling for work into an opportunity for some R&R, some culture or some intellectual stimulation? Other women do, meet them on page 58.

Look The Business T H E G L O S S M A G A Z I N E | October 2016 | 43

LOOK THE BUSINESS 9-

STY LE

ON TREND

ON DUTY

Scheduling a workwear update is a must but how to ﬁnd the time? Here’s how THE GLOSS and some brilliant working women do it … THE CORP ORAT E C U LT U R E C H AME L E O N

LINDA GREEN-KIELY Co-Founder, Voxpro

to synch with that.” In Silicon Valley, it’s tech companies and a casual dress code. “I wear dark J Brand jeans, a Balmain jacket and maybe some statement jewellery.” Or, she could be talking strategy in Georgia: “It was me and eleven men, all wearing ties, so I wore a sharp suit.” Enviably tall (she’s five feet nine with 33-inch legs) and slim, she looks good in pencil skirts, Victoria Beckham dresses and Tom Ford. On a cost-per-wear basis her Céline evening coat has served her well as has her leather coat from Christian Lacroix, bought in Harvey Nichols 15 years ago and bang on trend this season. “Leather

STYLE RESUMÉ Essential elements Gold flat circle ring, ¤29; WWW. JAEGER. CO.UK. Hawk’s eye and antique brass bracelet, ¤445; WWW. MULBERRY. COM.

POWER PROPS: Chunky gold jewellery

In New York, she dresses conservatively... In Silicon Valley, it’s a diﬀerent story.

“I HAVEN’T THE TIME TO SPEND or the energy to try on 40 things but I love fashion, so it’s about finding a formula that works,” says Linda Green-Kiely, co-founder of Voxpro, the Cork-based international outsourcing business that created 1,700 jobs here and counts Google, Airbnb, Nest and other successful brands as clients. She has always deployed clothes as armour in her professional life. In her first job, before she had earned any real money, her mother’s advice to “buy little, buy good” served her well. She bought three good tailored suits and mixed and matched them. Her later success in business, having international clients all over the world and three hubs in Silicon Valley, Cork and London, with a new HQ to open shortly in Dublin, has meant a different kind of pressure on her wardrobe. “Embodying our clients’ corporate culture is what we do and in our business you could change three times a day

44 | October 2016 | T H E G L O S S M A G A Z I N E

likes to be worn, it just gets better all the time.” But, it’s not all designer labels from Samui in Cork and Brown Thomas. When on those longhaul f lights to the west coast she’ll put on soft loungewear and cashmere wraps from Dunnes Stores. Just listening to Kiely talk about her working wardrobe is to understand some of the signals that we send when we wear certain pieces. “Voxpro is about adopting a client’s corporate culture and delivering beautiful customer service on their behalf. So, we are chameleon-like and clothes can play a huge part in that.” In New York where business is conducted with a certain formality, she dresses conservatively. In San Francisco, it’s a different story. “You can’t wear dark suits when there are blue skies and you can experience four seasons in a single day.” She observes the young men and women who work for her and is proud of how well they dress. “They are extraordinary. They know how to rock a modest wardrobe with style.” What about her own transition to an autumn-winter wardrobe? It could be smoother, she says. “I could be better at planning, I am a hoarder and find it hard to part with things so I buy classic rather than current.” She’s just made the changeover from her orange Céline to a black Chanel bag and has hung the light trench she bought on Net-a-Porter in her office. “Fashion gives you confidence and keeps you young.”

2 1

STATEMENT JACKETS: Excellent tailoring is essential

Navy double-breasted wool-twill blazer, BALMAIN, ¤1,590; www.net-a-porter.com.

UPDATING CLASSICS: A scarf adds a splash of colour

1. Black leather and gold long necklace, ¤950, at CHANEL. 2. Darcey sapphire encrusted necklace, ¤395, at LOUISE KENNEDY, 56 Merrion Square, Dublin 2. 3. Pink Bow silk scarf, ¤125; WWW. SUSANNAGHGROGAN.COM.

LOOK THE BUSINESS

THE NEW SUITS

THE GLOSS

DECODING THE WORKWEAR DRESS CODE ��6

TEXTURE

CLASSIC

Elevate your suit game with the help of a print. Checks are always a safe option, but for the more adventurous dresser, the choices are endless this season.

If you prefer to play it safe with colour, texture is a clever way to add a subtle element of luxury. Think heavy herringbone and chunky tweed.

In failsafe black or navy, a classic suit is a workwear must-have. Look for sharp tailoring, fine fabric and consider altering it to get that perfect fit.

Add on-trend burgundy or mustard to your tweed suit, dress or coat

THINK TEXTURE Grey check jacket, Autograph, d110, at MARKS & SPENCER.

PAUL SMITH

MIX COLOUR WITH TEXTURE

PHILIP LIM

MARGARET HOWELL

2 2

1. Black print jacket, ¤1,990; matching print trousers, ¤890; both GIVENCHY at www.net-a-porter.com. 2. Greige check jacket, ¤59.95; matching check trousers, ¤49.95; both at MANGO.

1. Grey jersey jacket, ¤675; matching skirt, ¤295; both WWW.JOSEPHFASHION.COM. 2. Grey check wool coat, Autograph, ¤175; matching check trousers,¤40; both at MARKS & SPENCER.

1. Navy wrap-front wool jacket, ¤175; navy flared-leg wool trousers, ¤95; both WWW.STORIES.COM. 2. Navy Bryce wool jacket, ¤1,140; navy wool trousers, ¤485; both STELLA MC CARTNEY; www.net-a-porter.com.

A HINT OF MUSTARD Mustard silk bow-neck blouse, EDUN, d730; www.mytheresa. com. Mustard Ravan trousers, d89.95, at SELECTED FEMME.

FINE WINES Burgundy leather bag, ANYA HINDMARCH, d940, at Kildare Village. Burgundy Chatsworth stretch wool dress, £295stg, WWW.THE FOLDLONDON.COM.

T H E G L O S S M A G A Z I N E | October 2016 | 45

LOOK THE BUSINESS Anne O’Leary wears Roksanda at LTB15.

T HE D RE SS E N T H U S I AST

ANNE O’LEARY CEO, Vodafone Ireland

OVER A LIFETIME, FAFFING OVER what to wear adds up to a significant amount of time. It’s not time Anne O’Leary, CEO of Vodafone Ireland, has to spend. “I use fashion to simplify my life, not to complicate it.” O’Leary’s diary is jam-packed and, while many of her commitments are scheduled months in advance, the unexpected meeting or event will often crop up. Always prepared to meet a customer at short notice or agree to a photo op request, she must always look smart. “I want to focus on making every moment count, and any planning that helps keep my brain free to concentrate on important decisions for business is worth investing in.”

A triathlete, O’Leary trains or swims early every morning so cuts deciding what to wear down to a couple of minutes: “Simple, uncomplicated dresses that can be dressed up to go from day to evening engagements by adding heels and a Marni necklace.” Choosing outfits takes even less time now she has installed glass-walled wardrobes. “My clothes are visible, accessible, on display. It makes it easier.” O’Leary keeps her clothes for ten years so always opts for quality in cut and fabric. She has evolved her own style and acknowledges the effect clothes have on her outlook. “Colour suits me, and it suits my personality. It lifts my spirits. I am a positive person and it makes me feel motivated.” O’Leary’s favourite designers include Roksanda, Roland Mouret, Erdem and Victoria Beckham. She loves Mary Katrantzou and Peter Pilotto too: “Their clothes are like pieces of art.” She wears heels, black or nude, many of them by Jimmy Choo, but has recently discovered the lower-heel comfort of those by Roger Vivier. For work, one great bag – a Mansur Gavriel tote – carries all her files, a laptop, make-up bag – and for evening, she favours a Chanel shoulder bag or a clutch by Charlotte Olympia. “Spending money on the right clothes is a great incentive to stay the same size and go to the gym,” she says.

THE DRESSES THAT IMPRESSED Anne O’Leary on her favourite looks from Look the Business events past “I have always loved the colour pink and it photographs well. The cut of the pink Roksanda dress I wore in 2014, below, was particularly flattering. I loved the blue Alexander McQueen I wore in 2013 – great with black tights in winter, and the green Roland Mouret from 2011 is a favourite. Mouret is a master of design – I’ve worn it many times since. Victoria Beckham is another expert at flattering the figure. I especially love her more affordable Victoria, Victoria Beckham range.”

2014

ROKSANDA

2013

ALEXANDER MC QUEEN

2012

2011

2010

VICTORIA BECKHAM

ROLAND MOURET

46 | October 2016 | T H E G L O S S M A G A Z I N E

FINDING A FORMULA A good uniform works wonders

A good uniform is the basis of every winning work wardrobe. Get yours right and you’ll save yourself a world of pain. Hillary Clinton, at 68, has pioneered pantsuit-wearing – it allows her wear low heels and look pulled together. Theresa May wears simple tailoring under a technicolour coat with signature quirky shoes. Christine Lagarde wears sober French tailoring, pearls and silk scarves.

W INNING FOR MULA

CELINE GILMER Group Procurement Manager at Entertainment Enterprises Ireland Ltd CELINE GILMER INHERITED HER VORACIOUS APPETITE for fashion from her mother, whose wardrobe once collapsed under the weight of her impulse buys. A forward planner, ahead of a busy week Gilmer will often have multiple outfits ready to go on Sunday night. “Professional means tailored, smart, sophisticated and elegant, but it can also be fun. For many corporate women, myself included, the suit has become a relic of the past.” Instead, Gilmer favours well-cut dresses from All Saints, Pied a Terre and Whistles, and embraces colour. “Dresses f latter my figure,” she says. “You will never see me in trousers and I always wear heels – they make me feel professional and look polished.” A clean and contemporary tailored jacket is the finishing touch. Gilmer’s winning formula for a streamlined work wardrobe? Downsize. “I start every new season with a closet cleanse. Creating a capsule wardrobe has simplified my life – I now own fewer items that combine to create dozens of different looks. It’s a difficult process, but worth it. I then store my wardrobe according to season.” Coats are one of Gilmer’s indulgences. “I have a few quirky dress coats from Joanne Hynes which are quite distinctive and a Helen McAlinden brown leather jacket. I love coats in all styles – a classic beige or red trench will smarten up any outfit, whether it’s from Burberry or the high street.” In her role, representing brands including Starbucks, Hard Rock Café Dublin and Mao, a challenge is making her workwear work outside the office for client dinners and evening engagements. For this, accessories are key. “While my jewellery is always subtle, I will change my bag. I actually change it every day, depending on what I’m wearing. I’m slowly building a collection of pieces from Lulu Guinness, Coach and Mulberry.”

LOOK THE BUSINESS

THE NEW DRESSES

THE GLOSS

DECODING THE WORKWEAR DRESS CODE ��6

WRAP

COLOUR

TUNIC

Equal parts flattering and smart, a wrap dress is a versatile investment. As wrap dress pioneer Diane von Furstenberg says, “It allows you to be a woman.”

Whatever your dress code, workwear doesn't have to be dull. Enliven your wardrobe with ontrend shades of merlot, pink and lavender.

A tunic, worn over trousers, is a stylish alternative to a typical dress, whether in coordinating or complementary colours.

ALWAYS BE WELL-HEELED Over-the-knee boots in the office? Yes! It’s time to think outside the boring (shoe) box

1 1

VICTORIA BECKHAM

LELA ROSE

CAROLINA HERRERA

ON THE BLOCK Wine patent leather anklestrap shoes, VALENTINO, d580; www.net-a-porter. com. Grey print doublestrap shoes, d35, at MARKS & SPENCER.

1. Black crêpe de chine dress, MAX MARA, ¤490, at www.net-a-porter.com. 2. Black wrap-effect faille dress, DKNY, ¤360, at Harvey Nichols. 3. Black Laria leather shoes, JIMMY CHOO, ¤495, at Harvey Nichols. 4. Black patent leather multistrap shoes, ¤42, at MARKS & SPENCER.

BOOT UP Black suede knee boots, GIANVITO ROSSI, d1,325, at Brown Thomas. Black Kaelynn leather boots, d650, at LK BENNETT.

1. Check wool dress, WEEKEND MAX MARA, ¤180, at Brown Thomas. 2. Oxblood v-neck dress,¤250, at TED BAKER. 3. Burgundy tweed short-sleeve dress, ¤295, at WWW.LKBENNETT.COM.

1. Black wool tunic, JAEGER, ¤75; winter white wide-leg trousers, ¤110; both at Arnotts. 2. Grey tweed tunic, ¤42; matching tweed trousers, ¤49; both at MARKS & SPENCER. 3. Black and white leather loafers with canvas trim, from a selection, at BOSS HUGO BOSS.

AFTER HOURS Black leather shoe boots, GIANVITO ROSSI, d580, at Brown Thomas. Black suede shoe boots, d129.95, at SELECTED FEMME.

T H E G L O S S M A G A Z I N E | October 2016 | 47

LOOK THE BUSINESS DESK TO DINNER Conversation pieces T HE DE C I S I V E DR E SS E R

JOANNE HESSION

Founder, The Entrepreneurs Academy THESE DAYS, A BUSY LIFE is all about reducing guesswork in the mornings by having a workwear formula that works. “I got this wrong for so many years,” says Joanne Hession, founder of The Entrepreneurs Academy which supports the foundation and growth of thousands of small businesses each year, and helps corporations better understand small business customers, training their staff and advising on their SME strategy. “I used to buy bits of everything, I had no plan. Now, life is so much easier. I get help. I have a stylist friend who takes me through options online, cuts down my choices, orders the clothes, then we meet when the deliveries are in. I try everything on and nine times out of ten, our selection is spot-on.” Hession, who is a board member of the British Irish Chamber of Commerce and Council Member of Dublin Chamber, has an autumn work wardrobe which includes a mid-calf fitted deep red wool coat, a selection of dark structured dresses and some wrap dresses which are ideal for travelling in as they are light and comfortable. She avoids anything too bulky and likes clothes that are versatile – her coat has a detachable fur collar. She has just nailed work event dressing too: “I updated what I have with a black fitted cocktail dress, a dark gold sequined

4 5

dress and a gold lamé shirt.” Unlike many women, the fact that most of her dresses are sleeveless is not an issue: “If I am giving a presentation, or talking on stage, I find them more comfortable and easy to move in.” Heels are a must: “They make me stand taller and actually seem to improve my posture.”

T H E ST RE AMLINE D ST RAT E G IST

GINA LONDON

Veteran CNN Broadcaster and Communications Strategist EMMY AWARD-WINNING VETERAN CNN broadcaster and communications strategist, Gina London has an ABC rule she applies to business: Appearance, Behaviour, Communications. It’s no coincidence appearance is first on the list – it underpins both behaviour and communications: “We can only work with what we were born with, but it’s important to boost your confidence by making the most of what you have – with grooming, being as polished as you can be and wearing f lattering clothes.” For London, this means a conservative but not frumpy approach: a body-con dress or pencil skirt and sleek bodysuit. Years in front of the camera have informed her look: “I hate anything that might rumple or look bunchy.” Having moved to Ireland from the US, she believes the weather doesn’t warrant a winter coat of the warm wool variety. “If you are a working woman, on the move, you don’t need to be weighed down – a big wool coat seems onerous, somehow. I really prefer a classy double-breasted understated black trench. I don’t do umbrellas but I always carry a black beret which I bought in Paris.” She always wears fingerless gloves and over-the-knee boots. It’s a streamlined silhouette. “I like to look sharp but not hard-charging.”

48 | October 2016 | T H E G L O S S M A G A Z I N E

1. Tassel earrings, OSCAR DE LA RENTA, ¤330, at Loulerie. 2. Elsa Rock crystal clutch, ¤795, at LOUISE KENNEDY, 56 Merrion Square, Dublin 2. 3. Black sequin-embellished satin shoes, BALENCIAGA, ¤2,250; www.net-a-porter.com. 4. Black lurex midi skirt, ¤221; WWW.FEEGEE.IE. 5. Black silk mix sweater with embellished neck, MARNI, ¤680, at Samui. 6. & 7. Black patent leather shoes, FURLA, ¤320; black tights, FALKE, from a selection, ¤10.80; both at Kildare Village.

WEATHERPROOFING A WINTER WARDROBE Go undercover 3 2

1. Black patent leather ankle boots, ¤205, KG BY KURT GEIGER, at Arnotts. 2. Black lightweight trench coat with grosgrain belt, ISABEL MARANT, ¤350; www.mytheresa.com. 3. Black felt beret, ¤20, at TOPSHOP. 4. Bone double-breasted trench coat, AQUASCUTUM, ¤505, at Kildare Village. 5. Navy umbrella, Hammond & Co, ¤45, at DEBENHAMS.

LOOK THE BUSINESS

THE NEW COATS

THE GLOSS

DECODING THE WORKWEAR DRESS CODE ��6

INVEST IN SOUND STAPLES A good quality white blouse or crisp white shirt provides smart, solid underpinning for suits and jackets

FIT T ED

BELTED Outerwear doesn’t have to be bulky; a belt will cinch in the waist, creating a curvy feminine silhouette. Don’t buckle up: tie the belt in a knot instead.

DOUBLE BREASTED

FITTED

A menswear classic, the doublebreasted coat means business. But seek out good tailoring – the DB can look boxy. For evening, try “shoulder-robing”.

A figure-skimming fitted coat looks smart with cigarette pants and heels. Concealed buttons will allow for an ultra-clean look.

BELL SLEEVE Antonia poplin shirt, $295; WWW. ANNEFONTAINE. COM. Off-white bell-sleeved blouse, ¤49.95, at SELECTED FEMME.

BLUMARINE

MARNI

DEREK LAM

ADD ONS White lace bow toe, ¤95; WWW. MARYGRANT. COM. White Tallulah ruffle collar and cuff, ¤550; WWW.ANNE FONTAINE.COM. LADYLIKE Off-white Saskia blouse, ¤125, at LK BENNETT. White blouse, ¤140, at MARKS & SPENCER.

2 2

3 3

1. Grey Ailsa belted wool coat, ¤360, at HOBBS. 2. Navy belted wool coat, ¤339, at MARKS & SPENCER. 3. Black leather ankle boots, ¤65, at MARKS & SPENCER.

1. Black wool coat, VICTORIA BECKHAM, ¤1,995, at Brown Thomas. 2. Camel waterproof cotton trench, ¤69.95, at ZARA. 3. Black ankle-strap suede shoes, ¤265, at LK BENNETT.

1. Camel wool princess-line coat, MAX MARA, ¤635; www.matchesfashion.com. 2. Grey herringbone wool one-button coat, ¤345, at JIGSAW. 3. Snakeskin and suede shoes, ¤129, at MASSIMO DUTTI.

NECK DETAIL White cotton blouse with large collar, LENNON COURTNEY, ¤79, at Dunnes Stores. Off-white neck-tie blouse, ¤249, at MARC CAIN.

T H E G L O S S M A G A Z I N E | October 2016 | 49

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WORKING LIFE

CREATIVE THINKERS Starting a business takes guts. GRACE BONNEY asks high-achieving entrepreneurs about sacrifices, career challenges and what success really means

GENEVIEVE GORDER

Interior designer and US television host WHAT

CALLED

YOU

YOUR

LEARNED IN RUNNING A BUSINESS?

FIELD OF WORK? My childhood

You have to stretch to grow. And surround yourself with not only talented people who you can delegate to, but also with good souls. WHAT RESOURCES

would have been a renovation show if there had been a camera present. We restored Victorian homes throughout the 1980s and 1990s. WHAT IS THE

WOULD

YOU

RECOMMEND

BIGGEST SACRIFICE YOU’VE MADE

SOMEONE STARTING A CREATIVE

BUSINESS? Embrace social media completely. It is the most incredible tool. Create a “no assholes” policy. And travel. It is not a luxury – it is a necessity.

STARTING

YOUR

BUSINESS?

Time … and my 20s. I think when it’s a passion, it’s hard to call anything you do for it a sacrifice, but I know I’ve missed many important events and happenings in my family and my own life. NAME A FEAR THAT KEEPS YOU UP AT NIGHT. The juggle. How do I keep all the balls in the air and make sure they are perfectly polished? WHAT IS THE BIGGEST LESSON YOU’VE

“I’ve MISSED many important events in my FAMILY and my own life.”

LINDA RODIN

Stylist, founder of Rodin Olio Lusso skincare WHAT IS YOUR FAVORITE THING ABOUT YOUR WORKSPACE?

That it is wherever I am. Mostly in my head. Or at home. WHAT IS THE BIGGEST SACRIFICE YOU’VE MADE IN STARTING YOUR BUSINESS? I didn’t make one. I kept all things going all the time. WHAT DOES SUCCESS MEAN TO YOU? Success means feeling passionate

about what you do. NAME A FEAR OR PROFESSIONAL CHALLENGE THAT KEEPS YOU UP AT NIGHT. Things that are out of my control. NAME SOMETHING YOU’RE MOST PROUD OF IN YOUR BUSINESS EXPERIENCES. Keeping very long-term relationships. WHAT IS THE BIGGEST OVERALL LESSON YOU’VE LEARNED IN RUNNING A BUSINESS? Patience. HAS LEARNING FROM A MISTAKE EVER LED YOU TO SUCCESS? I think most things in life are trial and error. So a

bit of self-doubt is a good thing. IN MOMENTS OF SELF-DOUBT OR ADVERSITY, HOW DO YOU BUILD YOURSELF BACK UP? I keep moving forward. One step informs the next. For better or for worse. WHAT CALLED YOU TO YOUR FIELD OF WORK? I could not find a product that I liked for my skin, so I created my own. I was 59. WHAT RESOURCES WOULD YOU RECOMMEND TO SOMEONE STARTING A CREATIVE BUSINESS? Your own vision and your own imagination.

“SUCCESS means feeling PASSIONATE about what you do.” T H E G L O S S M A G A Z I N E | October 2016 | 51

WORKING LIFE TAVI GEVINSON

Actress and editor-in-chief of Rookie, an online magazine for teenage girls

“I have a PHYSICAL aversion to wasting TIME.”

WHAT IS YOUR PROFESSIONAL MOTTO? Do what’s in front of you. WHAT IS THE BIGGEST SACRIFICE YOU’VE MADE IN STARTING YOUR BUSINESS? What would otherwise have been free time, like

after school or post-graduation. But this is what I wanted to do with my free time, so it doesn’t feel like a sacrifice, just nontraditional. NAME A FEAR OR PROFESSIONAL CHALLENGE THAT KEEPS YOU UP AT NIGHT. Not filling the day as much as I could have. WHAT IS THE BIGGEST OVERALL LESSON YOU’VE LEARNED IN RUNNING A BUSINESS. Honour audience feedback. HAS LEARNING FROM A MISTAKE EVER LED YOU TO SUCCESS? There are ongoing

conversations with Rookie readers, and it’s always valuable to hear what they need more and less of, and learn what our blind spots are. IN MOMENTS OF ADVERSITY, HOW DO YOU BUILD YOURSELF BACK UP? Self-care, which for me means taking walks alone, journalling, and

doing yoga. WHICH OF YOUR TRAITS ARE YOU MOST PROUD OF? I have a physical aversion to wasting time. It helps to recognise selfdoubt as such. WHAT WAS THE BEST PIECE OF BUSINESS ADVICE YOU WERE GIVEN WHEN YOU WERE STARTING OUT? Own everything. WHAT’S THE FIRST THING YOU DO EVERY MORNING? Put on a podcast. I need to be engaged with something and listen to people right away. WHAT’S YOUR FAVOURITE THING TO COME HOME TO AFTER A LONG DAY OF WORK? Seinfeld and cereal.

EILEEN FISHER

Fashion designer and sustainability activist WHAT WAS THE BEST PIECE OF

DIFFERENTLY

BUSINESS ADVICE YOU WERE GIVEN

FIRST STARTING OUT? I would have

WHEN YOU WERE STARTING OUT?

been less driven – I would have tried to be calmer and take it a little slower; tried to make more conscious decisions. I would have liked to have put myself at the centre earlier and kept my own life as more of a priority. WHAT DOES THE

Grow organically. If you create a product that people truly enjoy and benefit from, profitability will always follow. WHAT DOES

SUCCESS

MEAN

YOU?

Happy customers. Having a positive impact in the world: sustainability work with other initiatives like women’s leadership. NAME A FEAR THAT KEEPS YOU UP AT NIGHT. Public speaking – anything from speaking in front of a small group of people to giving a speech to a large audience. HAS LEARNING FROM A MISTAKE EVER LED YOU TO SUCCESS? In the early

“If you create a PRODUCT that people truly enjoy, PROFITABILITY will follow.”

days I chose to use only French terry as the main fabric. It was a minor disaster. I learned that if I broadened my fabric choices, it would expand my collection – the business exploded after that. All the challenges I have faced are just new opportunities presenting themselves. NAME YOUR GREATEST SUCCESS IN YOUR BUSINESS EXPERIENCES. My

core design concept is still relevant after 30 years. It is nice to see that the clothing lasts and is still meaningful and relevant. KNOWING WHAT YOU KNOW NOW, WHAT WOULD YOU HAVE DONE

52 | October 2016 | T H E G L O S S M A G A Z I N E

WHEN

YOU

WERE

WORLD NEED MORE OF? LESS OF?

The world needs more love, happiness, and joy, and less stuff. You still need stuff, but just the right stuff. WHAT IS YOUR NO-FAIL GO-TO WHEN YOU NEED INSPIRATION OR TO GET OUT OF A CREATIVE RUT? I have a purpose

chair that I like to spend time in. I also like to write. For me, taking time to just ramble-write in my journal for pages at a time energises me. If I write it down, I can see through the mess and gain clarity in what I need to do and the next steps. ^

Extracted from In the Company of Women by Grace Bonney (Artisan Books). Principal photography by Sasha Israel.

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TREND JUST ONE NOOK A cosy alcove provides just enough space for a laptop and lamp. Add some art for a personal touch.

UNFINISHED BUSINESS The phrase “Desk to Dinner” has a new meaning now the lines between office and home are blurred – once in the door in the evening, you might as easily find yourself preparing a deposition as a family meal. The easiest way to manage is to set a perimeter …

54 | October 2016 | T H E G L O S S M A G A Z I N E

n the door at 6.30pm, scrolling through messages while you hop on one leg, trying to extricate yourself from your tights, pinging off an email with an eye on a child’s homework, logging into the server to talk a colleague through a software issue, Skyping a client in a different time zone … if you work, any evening at home could include one or more of these out-ofhours events. Sometimes it can feel as if the drive home is just a prelude to another work session, as the lines between office and home are blurred and it becomes more difficult to demarcate. Although it may seem like an encroachment on family space, the best way to achieve a separation is to create a space at home dedicated to work – or if not for formal work, a place to respond to emails, pay bills online, write lists, letters and thank you cards, create a spreadsheet for the Parents’ Committee or Residents’ Association … and file the domestic paperwork, which however digital the revolution, still seems to accumulate. The value of having a dedicated office nook is twofold: your computer and paperwork are always in the same place, accessible and organised, and other members of your household know that when you are in that spot, you are working or organising. In theory. It won’t stop them interrupting you to enquire where the clean gym kit is, or the Tae Kwon Do belt, or if you have the form for the school trip or a P60 for the taxman. If an exasperated sigh or one of our favourite sayings, “Look with a woman’s eyes,” might be the response to the first two queries, you just might be able to say, to the last two, “Of course, here they are my darling, in my foolproof filing system.” It needn’t be a dedicated office – unless your house is large, you are unlikely to have a vacant room. Carving out a space in another room – the kitchen if you like to be at the heart of the operation, the rarely-used dining room, or literally the cupboard

OUT OF SIGHT Messy worker? A bureau with a folddown worktop will conceal clutter.

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TREND ON THE BENCH An antique bench provides an elegant alternative to a traditional desk in a period home.

SLIDING DOORS To keep your workspace fully under wraps, consider an office cupboard. For added security, you can even add a lock.

under the stairs — is practical and inexpensive. Resist the temptation to locate your home office space in the utility room — however great a multitasker you are, springing up and down every few moments to see to some domestic task, a 1200 spin is not conducive to professional conversations. You might want to create a custom space while renovating a room, or you may want to just invest in an attractive desk and chair to occupy a space elsewhere, but there are a few things to consider. Make sure there are sockets accessible where you plan to locate your desk, so you can plug in a laptop, printer, phone charger and lamp. Choose a table or desk which fits the task. If you don’t need a huge amount of space, keep an eye out for a neat table but remember you need a bit of elbow room, particularly with a laptop. You might prefer a long, slim bench to run along an empty wall, a

SITTING PRETTY In an open plan home, a desk can become a feature. Just add a statement chair.

circular one to tuck into a bay window, or even a small bureau with fold-down desk panel. If you don’t plan to spend hours at your desk, consider any kind of chair that looks attractive with your chosen desk or table – painted wood, fabricupholstered, even a nice stool – but make sure it’s the right height for comfort. If you will be working for prolonged periods, get a proper office chair and adjust height and back support to suit. Finally, delineate the space around your office nook. Hang a favourite piece of art or a noticeboard on the wall behind it and personalise it further with a stack of favourite books, a pot of pens and nice stationery at the ready. If you have an in-tray, be disciplined about keeping it up to date. And when your son or daughter eyes up the space for themselves, send them straight to their room. ^ SMcD

FROM THE DESK OF ... Five ways to smarten up your home office

Poolbeg Chimneys hardback notebook, Duffy Bookbinders, d10; www.jamartprints.com

Pencils, David Shrigley, d2, at Flying Tiger Copenhagen.

56 | October 2016 | T H E G L O S S M A G A Z I N E

Printed notebook, d25, at Newbridge Silverware.

Ilum candles and diffusers: new scents in porcelain vases, from d95, at Max Benjamin.

At Home RSVP notelets, d45 for 20; www.smythson.com.

WORKING LIFE TRAVEL BUDDIES Take the stress out of solo travel with these apps

SEATGURU

OUT OF OFFICE

But Checking Email Can travelling for business also be a pleasure? These frequent ﬂyers think so ...

o you remember a time before your mental hard drive filled up with well, life, where time was your own, where thoughts flowed through your head uninterrupted? No, neither do we. We all bemoan the disappearance of that time and drive ourselves mad trying to get it back. Do you download meditation apps and forget to use them or book a detoxifying spa trip with a girlfriend who too wants a “total switch-off”, only to stay up late drinking wine and talking about work and family until your head spins? Or are you like the woman who took herself on a silent hiking retreat, but said it did “more damage than good”. Feeling panic-stricken with disconnection, she hiked further than the fittest – searching like a dervish for a mountain with a phone signal. She returned fit as a fiddle but mentally exhausted. Cutting yourself off completely to recharge doesn’t work for everyone. Which is why, while some groan at the thought of travelling for work, others see it as an opportunity for downtime – or a reboot. “After 20 years of business travel,” says a veteran of the advertising industry, “it never ceases to amaze me how much I learn on every trip. About the world, about myself. No matter how brutal the schedule is, I end up coming back more fired up than when I left. Business travel is a gift. It’s time to think and not just react for once. It’s purposeful. Inspiration is everywhere if you open your eyes.” An architect colleague says travelling is the best part of her job. “Every trip ends up bringing it’s own surprise. What I love most about travel is the distance it offers you. You rarely return the same as when you left. Something has always shifted somewhere. Your style, your ethos or even just your mood.” The MD of a specialist management consultant firm who spends a week out of the country every month, mostly travelling to Paris and London, says “The best possible scenario is when I’m travelling for work so I’m in touch with the office but far enough away that most of the work, apart from work relating to my own clients, can go on without me – that’s when I can carve out some time, even an hour here and there, or an entire evening, if I’m not having dinner with my clients.” She uses this time to have a massage in the hotel’s spa before a room service supper. On other days, she has breakfast at a café, rather than the hotel, “so I can soak up the atmosphere of the city and feel connected to it, as I would have done when I was a student. The buzz of city life gives me energy I don’t feel at home.” For her, the change is as good as a rest but for others, the switch-off happens on the flight out, particularly if it’s long-haul.

58 | October 2016 | T H E G L O S S M A G A Z I N E

PHOTOGRAPH BY CATHERINE WESSEL

This handy app offers interactive, colour-coded seating maps of planes in more than 116 airlines, allowing you to choose the best seats (with the most legroom) and avoid the duds.

A marketing director for a luxury brand travels long-haul once a month. “I love it. I feel really lucky to have this time for myself, to reflect and reconnect. There’s a feeling of being back on top of the list for a short period, with no else but me to please, once work is over for the day. The best part for her is the flight: “No connection, no interruption, for twelve hours – when does that ever happen now? I feel totally relaxed putting my feet up in my pyjamas (yes, I always change on the flight) and having a glass of champagne.” “I too cherish the long-haul flight,” says a London-based corporate psychologist and executive coach. “After a day of hurtling through back-to-back meetings, the plane’s the place where I feel can switch off, feel totally removed, and actually concentrate on a movie.” Joan Rolls, PR for high-end jewellers Van Cleef & Arpels, loves the train for the same reason. “Ah, the Eurostar! Same routine every time – outbound, quick switch from mother to businesswoman, prepping for the meeting in Paris and reading the FT. The return journey is about leaving it all behind and relaxing”. Creative consultant and former fashion editor of Grazia magazine, Paula Reed zig-zags the world’s fashion capitals for work: “I find travelling alone creates great headspace. I’m usually going to places I have been many times before and can make my way there on autopilot. I get so much sorted out in my head and in my notebook!” She also believes in the balm of a hotel bed and bath. “The first time I went to a hotel alone after having my kids, I deliberately left all the towels on the bathroom floor. The buzz I got knowing someone else was clearing up after me was better than wine. I now look at young families in airport security with a rueful smile before skipping off to the executive lounge.” And while hanging around in airports can seem like a drag to some, others take the opportunity to shop. It’s rare to have the time to browse in nice boutiques but you’re practically forced to when you find yourself airside with time on your hands. It’s no mystery why frequent fliers have Longchamp Pliage bags in several colours. Others love to pick up local coffee, charcuterie or a bottle of birthday bubbles. Handbag designer Rebecca Minkoff has even turned a flight delay into a chance to shop for supper. “I love the airports in Italy because you can pick up fresh cheese and pastas to take home.” Coming back refreshed by the cities you’ve visited and the things you have seen can bring benefits for those who stay at home. An interesting gift never hurts. Katie Stanton, vice president of global media at Twitter, has a ritual for including her family. “While I’m away, I Skype or Facetime with my family every evening and show them what the city I’m in looks like. And I never come home empty-handed.” ^

LOUNGEBUDDY Browse photographs and reviews of lounges in more than 800 airports worldwide before purchasing instant access direct from your phone. You can even filter by specific amenities, if it’s a shower or bed you need.

TRIPIT Forward your travel confirmation emails to plans@ trip.it and TripIt will make a master itinerary for your trip, which you can access from any device. Upgrade to Pro and it will also send you realtime flight alerts and keep track of your reward points and frequent flier miles.

UBER Now serving 300 major cities worldwide, Uber takes the hassle out of hailing a cab, and is a safe and reliable way to get to and from meetings when travelling solo. Sign up with a company credit card and it’s one less thing to add to your expenses.

AROUNDME Need an ATM in Antwerp? Coffee in Copenhagen? AroundMe will use your phone’s location to quickly reveal what your surroundings have to offer, along with the precise distance from where you’re standing.

TRIPOSO With city maps, localised tips and personalised recommendations, Triposo allows you to get to grips with your destination without toting around a guidebook. Bonus: it works offline too.

LOCALEUR Live like a local wherever you are with this clever app, which uses local recommendations to help you avoid the typical tourist traps and get a much more authentic travel experience. If you have the time off to enjoy it, that is.

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BLAZER SHARP THE PIECE: This longline double-breasted blazer by Dries Van Noten is the must-have feminine power piece. Cream double-breasted wool blazer, c1,045, DRIES VAN NOTEN, at Samui, 17 Drawbridge Street, Cork. THE EXTRAS: Cream polo-neck cashmere sweater, c995; cream cropped cashmere trousers, c995; both TSE. Tobacco Nil calfskin shoes, c650, HERMÃ&#x2C6;S. Brown and black leather handbag, c1,650, MARNI at Samui, 17 Drawbridge Street, Cork.

POWER PANTS THE PIECE: Superwide trousers, like these ones from Zara, will get you full-marks about the office. Texture, like tweed or check, will add extra oomph. Charcoal wool trousers, c59.95; grey herringbone oversized wool blazer, c59.95; both ZARA. THE EXTRAS: Grey tweed wool coat, Max Mara. Off-white Vivi silk blouse, c215; black Greta leather belt, c115; both LK BENNETT. Black and white leather boots, MANOLO BLAHNIK.

WORKWEAR

REFRESH Autumn's workwear edit: one or two carefully selected purchases will breathe new life into your office wardrobe Photographed by TOM CORBETT / Styled by LUIS RODRIGUEZ

GO-TO COAT THE PIECE: Autumn weather can be erratic, so invest in a coat that is perfect for layering, like this navy wool staple from Marks & Spencer. Call on this classic piece season after season. Navy Smart wool peacoat, M&S COLLECTION, c140, at Marks & Spencer. THE EXTRAS: White stretch poplin shirt, c495; powder blue cashmere sweater, c1,045; navy crÃªpe skirt, c894; all MICHAEL KORS COLLECTION. Red leather handbag with gold chain strap, MIU MIU.

TWINNING THE PIECES: Understated, well-cut co-ordinates like this dress and coat from LK Bennett make for an impeccably elegant wardrobe. Navy Whitney merino wool dress, c275; navy Fran wool coat, c595; both LK BENNETT. THE EXTRAS: Brown, olive green and black leather handbag, c1,500, MARNI, at Samui, Cork.

CAMEL CLASSIC THE PIECE: If you only buy one coat, make it a camel coat. A masculine, singlebreasted style, like this one from Selected Femme, will go with everything. Camel single-breasted wool coat, c199.95, SELECTED FEMME. THE EXTRAS: Black and white check Lauret wool top, c390; black and white check Demetria wool trousers, c420; both THEORY. Vintage reading glasses, CUTLER & GROSS.

COLOUR CODE THE PIECE: Don't fear colour. Consider this pink wool coat by Louise Kennedy. Bold? Yes. Elegant and polished? Absolutely. Fuchsia Janelle cashmere blend coat, c1,395, LOUISE KENNEDY, 56 Merrion Square, Dublin 2. THE EXTRAS: Black Kennedy 56 leather handbag, c1,395, LOUISE KENNEDY, 56 Merrion Square, Dublin 2. Red Sallie polo-neck wool sweater, c260; red Demitria DF wool trousers, c420; both THEORY. Burgundy Abel leather stilettos, c475, JIMMY CHOO.

Photographed by Tom Corbett. Styled by Luis Rodriguez. Assisted by Alexander Boutin. Casting by Holly Corbett at Bernstein & Andriulli. Make-up by Keiko Hiramoto using Diorshow at Bryan Bantry Agency. Hair by Alberto Guzman for Bumble & Bumble at Ray Brown Pro. For stockists, www.thegloss.ie

WORKING LIFE ART AGAINST CONSUMPTION

RANKIN

Andreas in Italy for work. We are now starting our Winter 2015 collections while the current ones are being finalised. I have been selecting, for my website, extracts from a biography of Rudolph Nureyev to show how art serves culture and that culture reveals the human genius. The terrible thing is that people do not know the difference between true culture and popular culture and that popular culture is indeed consumption: we are almost suffocated by the need to consume. NB: Going to an art gallery is not consumption – you engage with the past and therefore engage in the life of the world.

To photographer Rankin. Photos of Andreas [Westwood’s former student, husband and co-designer] with me as accessory. They are for a profile Deborah Ross did on Andreas for The Times. I’m glad. I want people to know he’s a great designer, doing as much work as me.

CANNES FILM FESTIVAL To Cannes. Pamela [Anderson] organised a charity event during the film festival. Pamela, with her short hair, looked more sensational than ever. We stayed in Cap d’Antibes in the Belles Rives Hotel, which Scott Fitzgerald, Zelda and daughter Scottie once rented. It was really lovely there among the cliffs. We ate there, down beside the sea. The next night we went to a dinner hosted by Giorgio Armani for Vanity Fair. Pamela wore just a Climate Revolution T-shirt.

GET A LIFE! At 75, Vivienne Westwood is a force of nature, combining fashion and business with campaigning for climate change and a hectic social life. Here’s a ﬂavour ...

STELLA SCHNABEL Our publicity campaign shoot with Juergen Teller, with actress Stella Schnabel, Julian’s daughter. She is a strong woman, generous and charming, and speaks with definition and focus. I loved the way she said, ‘yes’. I couldn’t hear it enough. She thanked me for having directed her to the Wallace Collection while she was here in London. It’s such a relief to meet people who are intellectually inclined. She’s staying with Anita (Pallenberg).

FRACKING

VIENNA

Launch of our We Need to Talk About Fracking campaign. Venue: HMS President on Victoria Embankment; Our letter of celebrities, scientists and organisations has just been published. It calls for an independent debate on the possible dangers of fracking to the environment and our health. The public need to know.

To Vienna. Stay at the Sacher Hotel. We visit our friend Irma, who Andreas has asked to prepare a traditional country dish, a home-made spelt pasta with a sauce of different cheeses, salads and a rhubarb tart. We are with her son and two neighbours, and lots of champagne. Irma’s flat is quite big with high ceilings; the rent is controlled, kept low. There are no school fees in Austria: it’s easier to live here. We have a shop in Vienna.

RENAISSANCE MASTERS Dinner at Buckingham Palace in support of the Royal Drawing School. Some of the drawings from the Queen’s collection on display. Holbein, Claude, Raphael and Michaelangelo. These last two Italians lived at the same time as the French writer Rabelais, who I am going to read next. All men of the Renaissance. The Royal Drawing School students are allowed to handle the drawings. I don’t know if they are allowed to try to copy them. But the only way to become your own master is to copy the masterworks.

BRYAN ADAMS’S PICNIC Bryan Adams’s picnic to raise money to support veterans’ charities and War Child. Venue: the Chelsea Hospital with operatic concert in the church. This Wren building is immaculate – a harmony between aspiration and restraint. Bryan sang a little at the beginning. He still does one gig a month and this gives him the time to do other things he’s interested in – his photography and time spent with his family. He’s a good cook: vegetarian.

SUSAN AND LELU My friend Susan came to stay.

LUNCH IN THE COUNTRY

We met when we were 18 at teacher training college. This is a real treat for me. We dined at home with Andreas – a niçoise salad (no tuna). We went to yoga together, then we met Sara (Stockbridge) and

daughter

Lelu at the Gate Theatre, Notting Hill, for Grounded – about drones. Lelu is just 16 and I wanted her to come; it’s so important for young people to know what’s going on.

Westwood at the finale of her AW16 show at London Fashion Week.

66 | October 2016 | T H E G L O S S M A G A Z I N E

We spent time in our shop and drove half an hour out of Vienna and into the country for lunch, to a very special place. All the food is grown there, and they sell seeds of the old varieties and many different potatoes so that they don’t go out of existence. Wonderful tastes you never had: slices of raw asparagus marinated for months in pear schnapps, served with strawberries and among the salad leaves, slices of raw marinated rhubarb.

OZZY OSBOURNE Sharon Osbourne invited us to come and see Ozzy perform in Hyde Park. We were at the back in the wings where you only hear noise and feel the beat. Ozzy just ran to one side then back to the other side waving his arms and the whole audience copied him, waving like a sea of corn. We left just as they were finishing so as not to get caught in the exodus. We could have rushed over to Jerry Hall’s party in Richmond – we love her but we have too much to do to rave. ^ Get a Life! The Diaries of Vivienne Westwood, is published by Serpent’s Tail on October 13.

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INTERVIEW

LET’S DO LUNCH

Having studied architecture at DIT, Dublin-born Pollard set up her own practice in 1992. She became president of the RIAI in January of this year.

by Anne Harris

68 | October 2016 | T H E G L O S S M A G A Z I N E

ILLUSTRATION BY LAUREN O’NEILL

Carole Pollard, president of the Royal Institute of Architects of Ireland, outlines her ambitions over crab on toast in Ely

magine you are invited to a conference – no theme, no title. The speakers are Lenny Abrahamson, Oscar-nominated director of Room; Annie Ryan, director of A Girl is A HalfFormed Thing; Kevin Barry, author of dystopian Bohane City. Is it a Drama Studies fame fest? A collective of luvvies, perhaps? Wrong. You are in the august embrace of the Royal Institute of Architects of Ireland and the vision of its new president Carole Pollard who wants architects “to focus on the creative process, to visualise things like getting a book onto the stage or screen.” This is not the conventional view of architects, the men and women in black who bestrode the boom, the high priests of the glass box who fell like Icarus, when the hard landing came. Initially Carole Pollard doesn’t come across as unconventional. She rarely does lunch, which is much more corporate woman than creative space dreamer: this one is utilitarian, crab on toast in Ely a few yards from the RIAI offices, where our talk quickly turns to the housing crisis and her relationship with government. And she knows the

A recession is a good time to study architecture.” You begin to appreciate why optimism is considered a prerequisite for its practitioners and why she relishes overseeing the resurgence of the profession the recession walloped. American human resource experts say the way to get a really difficult job well done is to hire a woman who has her children raised: she knows all about problem solving, taking responsibility and doesn’t pull sickies. They don’t mention the attritional years required to get to that place. Pollard married young and had her children in quick succession. Aged from 24 to 18, in pleasing symmetry they reflect their mother’s Renaissance range: an actor, an architect, a psychologist and a business student. “My career moved in and out while I was raising them.” She doesn’t pretend it was a rose garden. “I left college in 1988 and had my first daughter in 1992. I felt very isolated at that time. I didn’t want to lose my career and yet I would have had no life in a private practice.” Bleak realism perhaps, but that moment of isolation is often where the desire for self worth is forged. Like the most interesting buildings – and faces – there are few straight lines in her career. She set up her own practice, served on myriad RIAI committees, and co-founded a flexitime organisation. “Eventually I was in a position where I was able to take on the presidency of the Institute.” Having it all – clearly she didn’t always – is not a part of her conversation. Her priorities are subtler. “I work very hard. I have a good balance.” Her house in Donegal, homeplace of her husband (“not an architect, he has his own business”) is the key. Not only did she design the house, “keeping the footprint of the old,” but she found a spiritual home. She is author of Seven Donegal Churches, an eight-volume paeon to the work of native architect Liam McCormack. It’s not all solemnity, a recent weekend party included a “tasting” day with Neven Maguire. Hill walking and a great book club are also a part of the balance. But you get the feeling everything feeds the passion. She doesn’t have heroes, but hugely admires Yvonne Farrell and Shelley McNamara of Grafton Architects. “They are always learning – some architects can be precious. I was at the Venice Biennale and Yvonne had tickets to all the drinks receptions. She introduced me to everyone.” She hoots when I express surprise that she hadn’t tickets herself. But clearly schmoozing wasn’t paramount. So what does Carole Pollard want to achieve? Apart from the big concerns like flooding – “there is no planning conversation about it” – the housing crisis and more architects on local authorities, her pressing desire is that the RIAI “engages with younger members. Not just the older fellows.” She talks about how architecture is the key to equilibrium – happiness even – in towns and cities. And through her eloquence an artistry is emerging. If architects shape our external landscape, by definition they shape our inner landscapes too. Pollard’s upcoming RIAI conference is a recognition of the other great chroniclers of modern inner landscape – film and theatre directors. To some – Woody Allen’s every film is a love letter to a city – there is no divide between inner and external. Architects are expected to be original interpreters of our time. Carole Pollard’s way of reaching to a new generation is original, and unconventional. As befits a gentle rebel. With a cause. ^ CAROLE POLLARD:

value of proximity to power: “I am very impressed with Simon Coveney. We were both speaking at a planning conference recently. He came from Peter Barry’s funeral in Cork, to the Apple crisis talks in Dublin and on to our meeting. He listened, then stayed to talk to people, including myself.” But here is no pant-suited player. Her spare and original beauty, like her name, evokes something of those movie stars the French adore – Carole Bouquet or Kristin Scott Thomas. She speaks of architecture more as a cause than a career. I suspect the other departments with which she engages – Arts and Heritage, Jobs and Enterprise – are about to discover that art and engineering are not divided worlds. The fact that the proselytiser exudes the wide-eyed idealism of a girl from Cabinteely, who once thought of entering politics, makes it all the more remarkable. Politics, she decided, “would be too wearing.” Architecture was the easier option? “One of the first things you are taught in college is you will be unemployed.” Forty-one per cent of the profession can attest to that, including herself. “I have seen at least three economic cycles.

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BEAUTY

Buffet

THIS MO N TH

WE’RE WEARING ...

BY SARAH HALLIWELL

TOM FORD

Perfectly shaped for the inner eye area, LAURA MERCIER Candleglow Concealer (¤38) has a peach/ pearl undertone to neutralise any green/blue shadows, even on the palest skin. (4) “Strategic use of concealer means you can use less foundation and powder,” says lead artist Caroline Barnes.

HIT THE BOTTLE

Can pills pep up your beauty routine?

We spotted Amy Cahill’s skincare, OXMANTOWN, (3) at the Seven Wood pop-up shop (now on Dawson Street). It’s officially for men, but Frankincense & Neroli Face Oil (¤29) is too good to miss. Book in with her in Stoneybatter for natural treatments, such as a 30-minute express facial featuring seaweed exfoliation, clay mask and head massage, ¤35. www.amylous.net.

Brown Thomas’ #MYBTBEAUTY event runs from October 13-30, with visiting international artists and fabulous launches, including LA MER’s longwear foundation and MAC’s limited-edition Helmut Newton collection (1). Read more in Brown Thomas Beauty magazine, published with The Irish Times, on Saturday October 8.

We’ve reached peak lipstick this season: CHANEL’s dazzling new Rouge Allure Lip Inks (¤34) are properly exciting (2). They’re ultralight and silky to wear but seriously lasting. We must also mention the new limited-edition Le Vernis Longwear for nails in Liquid Mirror, ¤25, an incredible chic metallic silver.

e know that good skin is about diet, lifestyle and avoiding the sun, but can supplements give us an extra boost? Names like Imedeen and WelleCo have been around for a while, and now Beauty Beneath has become the first supplement in Boots’ beauty aisles. “Supplementing is the future of beauty, and taking pills for skin benefits will be commonplace in years to come,” says nutrition expert Parminder Sandhu, head of the team behind the new brand. “There is a huge opportunity to impact skin health from below the surface. It is not a replacement for good diet or skincare, but rather a missing piece in the whole jigsaw.” The pills contain optimum levels of 19 nutrients that all offer benefits to your skin, including strong antioxidants to protect. The main claim is collagen boosting: collagen is the “scaffolding” of our skin that depletes as we get older. Dr Muireann Cullen of the Nutrition & Health Foundation notes that a recent dermatology review found evidence that these kind of products may be effective. “But often, individual ingredients are examined in studies, rather than supplements containing multiple ingredients, therefore it is difficult to say whether or not one product works over another.” The key is balance. “Supplements are not a quick and easy replacement for a poor diet. What we eat and drink greatly inf luences our skin’s health as our diet determines the condition of all cells in our body. Nothing can replace a healthy balanced diet and plenty of water to help you achieve nourished skin.” Cullen has a word of caution about taking supplements without advice. “Between food and drink plus the supplements, you may end up taking too much of some nutrients, which is not a good thing. The body is finely tuned in all the actions it needs to undertake on a daily basis, and so one small aspect could have negative effects.”

TAKE THREE Unique scents for autumn 1. LANCÔME Jasmins Marzipane is one of a new trio of perfumes in exquisite etched bottles. A rich heart of two jasmines – absolu from Grasse and fruity Indian sambac – combined with grapefuit, orange flower and rich vanilla. “There’s a leathery animalic facet to vanilla – it’s not just sweet,” says master perfumer Dominique Ropion. ¤180.

THIS MO N TH

WE’LL USE The new lipstick collection from LANCÔME We’re dazzled by all the incredible lip formulas launching this season. But at heart, many of us are old-school about lipstick and love a bullet and long-lasting colour. Lancôme’s 55 new shades of Absolu Rouge, curated by creative director Lisa Eldridge (right, at the Paris launch), fit the bill. Eldridge enthused about the colour range (designed to suit all skin tones, including eight nudes in every nuance) and fabulous textures, from matte to cream and sheer: “There’s so much really pure colour here,” she says. Her own favourite is a matte red, while Penelope Cruz wears Caprice scarlet in the campaign. New Cushion Blushers are the exact match: “It’s important to have some continuity with your lipstick and your blush.” At Lancôme counters nationwide.

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2. JACK Piccadilly ’69. Inspired by his memories of London in the 1960s, actor-turned-perfumer Richard E Grant’s third Jack scent is sexy and addictive, with hints of smokey patchouli, bergamot, leather and even petrol. ¤120, at Brown Thomas. 3. EIGHT & BOB Memoires de Mustique. Dream of crystal waters and sandy shores with this elegant unisex scent, with uplifting bergamot, neroli and orange. ¤130 at Harvey Nichols, Dundrum Town Centre, Dublin 16.

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BEAUTY

AGAINST THE CLOCK Only half an hour to spare? Try these shortcut treatments for grooming in record time, writes SARAH HALLIWELL

e’re all different: we all have a base level of grooming. Some consider a regular blowdry an absolute essential; many of us get by with an annual facial and a lot of dry shampoo. But most of us, working or not, have limited time to spend on titivating ourselves and frankly have better things to do than sit for hours in a salon. There’s a good reason that blowdry bars, such as the excellent Roller Blow on Hanover Quay and Oslo’s new Hot Air on Mespil Road, are flourishing – 30 minutes before work or at lunchtime can change not only how you look, but how you feel. What works, fast? Here’s a guide to time well spent.

MAKE-UP IN MINUTES Update your make-up for the new season at Brown Sugar salons, where a 30-40-minute make-over starts from ¤50. “If you’re under time pressure, it’s important not to over-complicate your look,” advises in-house make-up expert Dearbhla Keenan. “Make sure to apply your daytime base correctly as this will save you the hassle of a complete beauty overhaul after work. One quick fix is to eschew eyeshadow and focus on the lips using on-trend moisture-rich plum or currant tones. We’re moving away from eyeshadow this season: a touch of sparkle applied to the tearduct is a great alternative. Even if you only have ten minutes, just go for a quick application of natural individual lashes for an immediate eye-opening effect.” From ¤15. Brown Sugar, 50 South William Street, Dublin 2; www.brownsugar.ie.

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Fast manicures that last: A tiny spot that punches above its weight, COCO HAND & FOOT SPA is a hidden gem for a great mani or pedi using Essie and Vinylux polishes. ¤16 (30 minutes) for soak, file, buff, cuticle work and polish; ten-minute file and polish for a tenner. 2nd floor, 57/58 Mary Street, Dublin 1; 086 307 0283; www.slimline-studio.ie. 5TH AVENUE A luxe mini manicure takes 30 minutes (¤21). 51 Oliver Plunkett St, Cork, 021 427 8827; www.fifthavenuecork.ie. Experienced technician Michele Burke is based at 53 MAIN STREET salon in Dundrum Village: visit for a hard-wearing, long-lasting Gelish mani (¤35). 53 Main Street, Dundrum, Co Dublin, 086 233 2827; www.micheleburkenails.ie.

30 MINUTE FACIAL SKINCEUTICALS PEEL: The change of season is the best time for a youthifying peel, according to Patricia Molloy of The Derma Clinic in Blackrock. Glycolic peels are the shallowest exfoliating technique using glycolic acid, a mild chemical solution which removes surface cells on the top layer of the skin. This causes new skin cells to form 24 hours after the procedure. Each peel (Molloy recommends six but three will make a difference) takes about 20 minutes so you can be in and out at lunchtime, with no redness forcing you to barricade yourself in your office for the afternoon. Rather, you can expect fresh, clean skin, tightened pores and even colour, plus all other skincare works so much better and foundation glides on as well. A supporting Skinceuticals skincare regime at home (no hardship at all) helps maintain the effects. The quickest, most effective facial treatment we have ever tried. By the way, if you have been toying with the idea of fillers or laser treatments, Molloy will give you sound advice. She favours the subtle approach. ¤100 per peel. The Derma Clinic, 53 Rock Road, Blackrock, Co Dublin, 01 278 8211; www.dermaclinic.ie. ALSO TRY: ELEMIS POWER BOOSTER FACIAL Head to Harvey Nichols for a fast facial: Environ and Elemis offer treatments lasting between ten and 30 minutes. Harvey Nichols, Dundrum Town Centre, Dublin. THE BUFF DAY SPA is hidden away in the centre of Dublin, next to the Gaiety Theatre. Nip in for a Dermalogica Buff Express Facial (¤55), which packs skin analysis and a brightening exfoliation into a half-hour slot. 52 South King Street, 01 677 4624; www.thebuffdayspa.com.

TAKE THREE NAIL BARS

A QUICK REFRESH FOR HAIR We used to be fascinated by “the 13-day blondes”, that New York phenomenon of the 1990s: famous blondes like the late Carolyn Bessette-Kennedy had their colour refreshed every fortnight to stay coolly and glamorously blonde. For us mere mortals, it’s just not possible. Which is why blondes-in-theknow head to Lukazs Rod’s Batik salon in Dublin 6 between highlights appointments for a quick toner application to banish brassy tones and prolong colour. So in demand are Rod and colourist Ruth Gaynor – we like to say they invented the “Ranelagh Blonde” – early morning appointments are like gold dust. ¤35. Batik Hair Studio, 48 Anna Villa, Ranelagh, Dublin 6, 087 272 0004; www.batikhairstudio.com. AT HOME: When colour expert Andrew Dunne of Mane on South William Street recommends something, we listen. So we’re leaving Olaplex No3 (¤40) on hair overnight once a week to strengthen hair that’s frazzled by urban living and relentless colouring, and it’s definitely helping. L’Oréal Pro Fiber ReCreate Serum (¤17.99) is a good alternative.

THE SPEEDY SMILE UPGRADE With all the dark lipsticks around this season, we’re conscious of our less-than-pearly-white teeth. Even a scale and polish will improve your smile, while whitening is now easier and quicker than ever. Recently opened O’GARA DENTAL in Ballsbridge specialises in aesthetic dentistry. “Whitening is a simple way to make a huge difference, particularly to your confidence,” explains Dr Morgan O’Gara. “Up to around six years ago, power bleaching was in fashion, but it takes too long and there are sensitivity issues afterwards. The gold standard now is non-invasive and can be done in two appointments of ten to 15 minutes each. I’ve had several patients who were planning veeners who are happy since having whitening done.” Your newly gleaming smile should last 18-24 months. From ¤295. O’Gara Dental, Apt 6, 75 Pembroke Road, Ballsbridge, Dublin 4, 01 668 0639, www.ogaradental.ie. ^

TAKE HOME TREATMENTS Keep up the good work at home with these highimpact beauty investments: MASK IT Lancôme Absolue L’Extrait Ultimate Rose Serum Mask takes face masks to a whole new level of luxury. Beautifully hydrating, it has the inimitable Absolue citrus and rose scent. From late October, ¤360. WHITE OUT Regenerate Toothpaste contains the same mineral found in enamel to help strengthen teeth and minimise erosion. ¤13, Sam McCauley Chemists and Lloyds Pharmacy. MAKE ENDS MEET Aveda Damage Remedy Split End Repair is a leave-in treatment that repairs and protects damaged and fragile hair. ¤32, from Brown Thomas.

BOOKS BEDSIDE TABLE

What is STELLA NEWMAN reading?

Having originally worked in the BBC, writer and food critic Stella Newman has three previous novels, Pear Shaped, Leftovers and The Dish. Her latest novel Seven Steps To Happiness centres on two friends embarking on a ten-step happiness plan which garners mixed results. Headline Review, 010.50

FINDING TRUE NORTH

A new anthology features female writers from Northern Ireland. MARY O’DONNELL was reminded of Ulster’s fascinating culture ...

THE GLASS CASTLE Jeannette Walls This best-selling memoir about a girl growing up in mind-binding poverty defies all expectations – Walls soars above the genre, delivering tales of an extraordinary childhood full of adventure and extremes. Her story is jaw-dropping without being sensationalist, forgiving where most would surely blame, and above all, generous. The most impressive part is Walls’s ability to be the heroine of her own life rather than the victim. Virago, 014.20

THE WESTING GAME Ellen Raskin I generally don’t read much children’s fiction, but The Westing Game was mentioned in an article by Gillian Flynn, which she said had inspired her own adult fiction over the years. Intrigued, I tracked down a copy from 1978 and from the first page was hooked. Imagine if Scooby Doo was written by Dorothy Parker in one of her more exuberant moods and you’d be half way there. The book is a joyous celebration of character, plot and wit, unlike any I’ve read before. Penguin, 07.50

PHOTOGRAPH BY EILISH MCCORMICK

TINY BEAUTIFUL THINGS – ADVICE ON LOVE AND LIFE FROM SOMEONE WHO’S BEEN THERE Cheryl Strayed Strayed, the best-selling author of Wild, is also the agony aunt behind ‘Dear Sugar’ an advice column that ran in The Rumpus, now a podcast. This is a collection of her short essays in response to readers’ letters on subjects such as love, loss, marriage, dating, work, sex and more. Part memoir, part self-help tome, it’s deeply moving, wise and inspirational. She writes with brutal honesty and compassion. Atlantic Books, 014.20

hen Sinead Gleeson approached me to contribute a short story to a new anthology called The Glass Shore: Short Stories by Women Writers from the North of Ireland, I sat up, not just out of interest in the project, but because these days, when Gleeson calls, people tend to respond out of sheer interest in what she’s up to next. “What’s this?” I thought. “Women writers? And from the North of Ireland? All of us, including the three counties in the Republic?” Finally, I breathed with satisfaction, a gesture in publishing that includes the ancient province of Ulster, as I have loved it all my life, and which does not exclude the three "southern" administered counties. On the one hand, the anthology represents the retrieval of a group of long-dead writers whose work has largely disappeared from print or conversation, among them Margaret Barrington, Caroline Blackwood, Ethna Carbery and Alice Milligan. But it also contains the living: my colleagues from both sides of the border, including Annemarie Neary, Tara West, Una Woods, Evelyn Conlon, Martina Devlin, Bernie McGill, Polly Devlin, and Jan Carson.

As for the book’s title? “We may cross the border,” Gleeson told me, “but the shoreline is still the same, and we’re connected by land, by geography, by coasts, by history.” Growing up in Monaghan, I was educated in the myths and legends of Ulster, among other things. The Red Hand of Ulster, the Red Branch Knights, the Flight of the Earls and all the emblems, history and lore of O’Neill and O’Donnell was automatically impressed on us children, both at school and in my home. My father, although a south Leinster man, passed on the tales, by telling and through the books he bought for my sister and I. My mother, a Monaghanborn woman with strong connections north of the border, provided vivid accounts of what life was like for her as a child, and through the Second World War, when American soldiers would often cross the border and come south. The smuggling of goods northwards during the war, (things like butter and meat), then southwards during the 1950s and 1960s when produce choice in the Republic was limited, was big business and everybody knew somebody who could be relied on to get a suite of furniture or a new television into the Republic, usually via the network of unapproved roads that were like an invisible watermark along the border. That’s the thing that best captures what the border meant and still means to me: it’s the watermark that authenticates the bizarre division of this island, where Ulster can mean the Six Counties, but if you consider yourself "of

“To this day, I encounter people who don’t know whether MONAGHAN is in the NORTH or the SOUTH.” Ulster" but were reared in Donegal, Cavan or Monaghan, common perception is that you come from a no-man’s-land, because the nine counties, as we know, refer to something more ancient that no longer exists. Years later, when I came to live further south in the Republic, I often drew a blank when it came to any discussion of my place of origin. To this day, I encounter people who don’t know whether Monaghan is in the North or the South. What I really liked about Sinéad Gleeson’s brief was the fact that contributors were free to write about whatever they liked. Thankfully, it didn’t require a specifically "northern" focus, as such, so much as being a story by writers whose place of origin is Ulster. It was a good idea not to press the regional, especially in the context of the North, and readers will be pleasantly surprised at the diversity of theme, location and style within these stories. My own contribution to the anthology, The Path to Heaven, although set in the Republic of my upbringing, recounts an episode in the life of a woman who tries to help her Polish immigrant housekeeper, who is being beaten by her husband. The title of the story refers to the area in which the young woman grew up, close to one of Poland’s lesser known concentration camps. It’s a delight to be part of this anthology, and to know that, at last, I’m in the company of my writing colleagues from Ulster. ^ The Glass Shore: Short Stories by Women Writers from the North of Ireland (B19.95, New Island) is out now.

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I W

lack teeth and bitterness – that’s what I remember most from a mammoth tasting of inky-dark Corbières on a tour around the Languedoc 15 years ago. What a transformation! A recent return visit yielded superb wines every step of the way. They’re like today’s most luxurious cashmere and alpaca-enriched Aran sweaters – softer and more sensual than the rough, heavy knitwear we used to know, but still rugged enough to ref lect the wild landscapes that shaped them. If you’ve ever f lown into Carcassonne and driven east to the Mediterranean, you’ll have some idea how wild Corbières is. Castles perched on pinnacles of rock with vistas across miles of untamed countryside were where the Cathars sought refuge from persecution by the Catholic Church in the 12th and 13th centuries. Leave the main roads and you are lost in a world of craggy hills, woodland, wild f lowers, undulating vineyards and old stone villages. Stretching on its coastal side from Narbonne almost to the Spanish border, Corbières is the Languedoc’s largest appellation. And the Languedoc is vast, taking in a clatter of regions including Saint-Chinian, Fitou, Minervois and Faugères as well as the Coteaux du Languedoc. Unless you are a hermit you will know that this whole area has been viewed as wine’s Promised Land for decades – a place of infinite progress and infinite possibility, where quality supposedly goes hand in hand with value. On current form it looks as if Corbières, a slow burner, may turn out

THIS WONDERFUL LITTLE PLACE ... S HA NGHAI

Dearbhla Collins is an awardwinning pianist and the artistic administrator of the Veronica Dunne International Singing Competition

can’t quite remember who recommended Lost Heaven in Shanghai to me but I’m glad they did. I’ve been to China many times now since I first went in 2006 with Culture Ireland, but that first time I thought it might be my only visit. Based in Beijing doing a recital of Irish music in the National Centre for the Performing Arts, I decided to take a few days extra for myself to check out Shanghai. Lost Heaven is tucked away in a lovely 1920s-style villa on a little street in the Former French Concession area of Shanghai, and is just what you want from a restaurant in that setting – exotic, mysterious and darkly atmospheric, with delicious food. Downstairs there’s a bar that does gorgeous fresh juice cocktails, where it’s cool and quiet, perfect for a watermelon martini before dinner. Upstairs the restaurant is almost like a temple – lots of scarlet and

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BY M A RY

D EY

The largest appellation in the Languedoc, Corbières is producing red wines guaranteed to warm up winter, says MARY DOWEY

W O

SIMPLY RED

to be one of its greatest strengths. Why? Because its situation, close to the snow-capped Pyrenees and the sea, gives it the potential to produce rich wines with a crucial streak of freshness. Because its vineyards – some halfforgotten until recently – have the old vines that wise producers prize these days for concentration, especially in the Carignan grape which brings elegance and verve to blends of Grenache and Syrah. Because organic viticulture has been a f lourishing trend here for over 40 years, with biodynamic methods now also coming into play, helping to promote purer, juicier f lavours. And because of a wild ferment of zealous producers. Alongside locals with generations of vine-growing in their blood are blowins with new ideas. English couple Jon and Elizabeth Bowen make some of my favourite Corbières at Sainte-Croix. Magali Roux-Terrier of Domaines des 2 Ânes, another source of terrific wines (en route to Terroirs, Donnybrook), migrated south from Beaujolais. There is even an Irish connection: Dubliner Neasa Corish and her husband Laurent Miquel, already active in SaintChinian, are turning the magnificent Les Auzines estate into a benchmark for white wines (some of which are in Dunnes Stores and O’Briens). Although impressive whites are on the rise they remain small in number. Reds carry the day. Dense and meaty with a whiff of herbs, black pepper and black olives, they taste their best with a rich stew – spot-on for the months ahead. ^ @MaryDowey

SAINTE-CROIX CORBIÈRES LE FOURNAS 2013. Corbières at its most lipsmacking, with floral aromas and juicy acidity. Organic. Alcohol 14.5%. From Good Food Store, Dublin 2; Little Green Grocer, Kilkenny; JJ O’Driscoll, Cork; www. marypawlewines.com, about d17.20. CHÂTEAU PECH-LATT CORBIÈRES 2014. A slightly more traditional style, plump in the mouth and oozing dark fruit flavours against a backdrop of firm, fine tannins. Organic. Alcohol 14%. From Whelehans, Loughlinstown, Co Dublin, d17.95. CHÂTEAU HAUT-GLÉON NOTRE DAME CORBIÈRES 2013. Rich and intense with a supple texture; a special wine at a special price. Alcohol 14%. From McHughs, Artane, Dublin 5; Baggot Street Wines, Dublin 4; Redmonds, Dublin 6; Martins, Dublin 3; about d35.

chillies, curries, pickles, fresh herbs and a dash of Sichuan spices. The service is charming, although I tend to feel very tall when I’m there – the waitresses are tiny! I’ve been back to China – to Beijing, Wuhan and to Shanghai – both to teach and to perform, with bass John Molloy, mezzo soprano Aylish Kerrigan and soprano Lynda Lee, and it is a fascinating country with amazing food. Lost Heaven cocktail bar Although the cities have populations of scores of millions, there is a calmness about the people and a real friendliness and interest in meeting us musicians from the West. There is still a strong sense of exoticism that remains, despite all the building and development over the past decades. I love to see couples doing ballroom dancing in the public parks, ladies practising their T’ai Chi at the side of a busy road, or an old Buddhist temple nestled amid shiny new skyscrapers. And I love their great Lost Heaven dining room concert halls. I was talking to my brother Finghin [Collins, also an internationally renowned pianist] as he is off to Wuhan black, wooden floors and a huge Buddha, bamboo trees in central China to teach at the Conservatory there, so everywhere and flickering candles. he was picking my brains about my experience. When I A lot of high-end dining in China is a version of taught in Wuhan, I’d walk from the older section of the European food and in modern hotel-style restaurants Conservatory, the professors’ quarters where I lived, too, so the ambience and the menu in Lost Heaven is to the modern teaching part which has pianos in every something different that instantly feels both totally room, and I’d pass through the area where the street food foreign and exactly right. sellers congregate. Even just sniffing the air was exciting The food, based on the Tea Horse Trail, a trading – full of inspiring aromas and scents that make you route that stretched from Tibet down through Yunnan in the south-west of China and in to the hill country of want to go exploring. ^ ÓRLA DUKES Burma and Thailand, is a little like Thai food with some Lost Heaven, 38 Gaoyou Lu, near Fuxing Xi Lu, Shanghai; Vietnamese thrown in, lots of coconut milk, lemongrass, www.lostheaven.com.cn

ES EINE

Quick- roasted meat, vegetables or ﬁsh can be delicious and easy to produce on the hoof, says TRISH DESEINE

RULE THE ROAST

FOOD

BY T R I S H

PHOTOGRAPH BY DEIRDRE ROONEY

A useful recipe you can tweak to all-onion, all apple or a mix of fruits. Use it to brighten up any quick-roasted, grilled meat or fish. (Prep 5 minutes, cooking 40 minutes)

y now we have more or less settled into our autumn routines of work, school, watching Poldark and Lords and Ladles and retrieving our winter coats and boots out of the cupboard once more. If you are like me, you are slowly giving up on trying to recreate summer with the season’s sturdy greens and are hankering for hearty f lavours and autumnal colours. Words like caramelised, roasted, baked, sticky and, well, pumpkin, are jumping out at you from the recipe pages of your mind. At the same time, your trusty slow cooker and/or cast iron casseroles look tempting now the nights have fair drawn in, but when you think it through seem only to promise dishes you should have started to cook yesterday and which always require some kind of starch to mop up their (delicious) sauces. How do you build f lavour and mix textures without losing them all in an ultimately homogenising stew? Well, dear friends, you do it by doing something you were probably already doing. Sheet pan cooking is a thing. It is a thing because not only does it suit our growing familiarity with world food f lavour combinations and diminishing shyness about using them, but because Martha Stewart, Bon Appetit, Food 52 and all reputable, up to speed, recipe curators and creators say so. It is basically bunging a handful of ingredients requiring similar cooking times on a shallow, f lat baking tray (sheet pan), adding said f lavours and roasting them all together at high heat, allowing juices to mingle and surfaces to grill, caramelise and get sticky … all those delicious words catching our appetite’s imagination right now. This method saves on equipment used, preparation required and most of all, washing up (especially if you use foil as a liner) and the sheets usually look alluring enough to be served directly on the table. It’s a cooking concept made for weekdays and a perfect way of using up leftover cooked meat, vegetables and cheese and the ends of oil bottle that which is every kitchen’s guilty secret. (The picture is simply pork chops with a Indian spiced garlic relish and a little extra oil. Serve it with chopped salad with apple on the side.) In my house, it became the ideal way of reducing the amount of meat we ate. Somehow the roast medley approach allowed me to rejig the proportions of meat versus veg or use cured meats almost as a condiment rather than the main act. (Crispy bacon bits, bacon fat, yum!) Topped with feta or any crumbly goats’ cheese, with salad and bread on the side, roast vegetables became a perfectly

GENTLY SPICED FRUIT RELISH FOR ROASTED PORK CHOPS

1 small pineapple or four tart apples peeled, cut into chunks • 1 onion (four or five if you are not using fruit) peeled and chopped very finely • 3 garlic cloves peeled, chopped finely • 30g sultanas (add and mix with dried dates, apricots, prunes, cherries...) • 2 tablespoons Demerara sugar • 5 tablespoons cider vinegar • 1 teaspoon mustard seeds • ½ teaspoon ground coriander • ½ teaspoon ground cumin • 1 teaspoon ground ginger 1. Put all the ingredients into a saucepan with a little water, bring to a simmer and leave to cook very gently indeed for 30 minutes, stirring once or twice. Add a splash of water if the relish sticks and take the lid off for the last ten minutes to get a nice thick consistency. 2. Leave to cool, pour into a jar, keep in the fridge and use as needed.

SAUSAGES, RED ONIONS, JUNIPER, BAY LEAF, PUMPKIN AND APPLE I love the the autumnal colours and flavours in this mix. FOR 4 (30 minutes preparation and cooking) 6 plump sausages • A slice of pumpkin of about 300g, skin off and cut into slices • 2 red onions, sliced • 3 tart, firm apples, peeled and sliced • 3 or 4 juniper berries, crushed • Couple of bay leaves, torn into four pieces • Olive oil, salt and pepper 1. Pre-heat the oven to 180°C. 2. Toss the pumpkin, onions and apples in the olive oil, juniper and bay leaf, season and lay on the baking sheet lined with foil. 3. Pop the sausages on top and bake for 20 minutes or so, giving them a shake half way through.

acceptable main course even to my voracious teens. Often the resulting glorious roasted mess does need a little sauce to loosen things up as you eat. This allows even more scope for creativity and, in my case, another outing for perhaps my favourite kitchen implement, my Magimix Mini Blender. It (or if I’m honest they, I have two, due my fear of ever being without it, given my nomadic lifestyle) blasts its way easily through nuts and dried up ends of parmesan making the loveliest, smoothest herb pestos for say, a sheet of baked fish with vegetables. You can also make them double up as marinade and sauce, using half for cooking and half with the finished dish. Just a couple of seconds blasting of tomato, spring onion, lemon juice, olive oil and honey if you fancy, will give you a fresh, chunky sauce and a perfect replacement for any squeezy bottles of store-bought gloopiness. My alltime favourite umami-plus-sweet-creation-which-goeswith-everything is miso mixed with maple syrup, and do not underestimate the lovely bitter sweetness of roasted citrus thrown in with your sheet pan mix. Here are my standout sheet pan combinations and f lavour shortcuts for week nights when you would much rather be watching the Great British Bake Off than cooking anything yourself. ^ @TrishDeseine

HOT CAESAR SALAD Everyone is roasting their lettuce these days, have you noticed? And it is very delicious too. FOR 4 (25 minutes preparation and cooking) 4 chicken breasts • 4 tbsp of grated parmesan • 4 tbsp breadcrumbs or panko crumbs • 1 or 2 tbsp olive oil • 1 tbsp chopped parsley • 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped • 2 heads of romaine lettuce, or 4 little gems, halve • Olive oil, salt and pepper, anchovies and extra parmesan for serving 1. Pre-heat the oven to 190°C. 2. Mix the parmesan, parsley, panko, one chopped garlic clove and season with salt and pepper. 3. Line the baking sheet with foil, set the chicken on it and top with the parmesan and bread mixture. Bake for ten minutes or so. Remove from the oven, add the halved lettuces, drizzle with olive oil and sprinkle with garlic and roast for a further ten minutes until slightly charred and soft. 4. Serve garnished with olive oil, anchovies and seasoned with a little salt and pepper if needs be.

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TRAVEL

MAN in A SUITCASE

Left to right: Stockholm, built on 14 islands; the interior of Slip; a cabin in the Prince van Orangiën.

Stockholm embodies almost everything that is great about Scandinavia, writes TIM MAGEE

candinavia could build a wall. They don’t need anything from the rest of us now. They couldn’t have done it 20 years ago but that was before oil, Lars Van Trier, and a food movement that is the envy of the world, Scandi noir, Alexander Skarsgård and Saga from The Bridge. Behind their wall they could use Nokia and Eriksson to talk to each other. Sweden alone could dress everyone in H&M and her sisters, Cos and & Other Stories, and supply us all with flat pack furniture, which we’d assemble listening to Spotify. Scandinavia has all the energy it needs. This new micro continent could plough on with the stuff we keep arguing or dreaming about. Hydroelectricity already powers Norway’s electricity, geothermal all of Iceland. The Danes are masters of the winds and Norway’s gas and oil bonanza can cover the rest, and then some. Behind their wall they could keep making great television and books about murder and odd but loveable detectives. They could host clean summer and winter Olympics when they like all the while giving their Nobel prizes to each other. There might be savage competition for best city to live in though. For quality of life surveys Helsinki and Copenhagen are in and around the top ten every time globally as it is (Oslo is too boring, Reykjavik too nuts). Stockholm is always there or thereabouts too. Stockholm is like Venice and Budapest had a baby. A very pretty baby that went to live in a pristine nature reserve. Such a peaceful child too. The Danes and Norwegians had Hitler to contend with, and the Finns had Stalin and other big bad bear handlers at their door, but Sweden has had over 200 years of peace. It defines it. You can feel it in the air in the capital. Until you hear the screaming that is. I hear this screaming from the tiny boat I am staying on in between Djurgården and Beckholmen, islands near the centre of Stockholm. My boat, the PRINCE VAN ORANGIËN, is a little Dutch beauty from the 1930s that is all oak, rosewood and marble. It’s a bijou hotel now but looks like

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the river boat from a Tarzan film and feels like you are on the set of a Poirot movie. It’s like a floating version of the Orient Express, but less formal and with bigger beds. The screaming is coming from children who are doing pretty good Tarzan sounds themselves. I don’t like noisy holidays but this is distant and happy enough to make you chortle, and the hollering is deliberate as they shoot up, down and around a very classy funfair, Stockholm’s Gröna Lund. There must be something subliminal about screaming joy that had me pottering around my boat with a smile all day. The city is spectacular, laid out across 14 islands. Some with tiered wedding cake buildings, some modern, others medieval, some just green – all pristine and linked by water. Stockholm is not the Venice of the north – here there’s room enough to breathe and locals outnumber Pac-a-macs. Fourteen islands is too much to see on any single trip so just pick a district or two like Gamla Stan or Södermalm. Gamla Stan, the medieval heart of the city is touristy but not tacky and still thronged with a diverse population going about their business in a warren of streets and lanes from the middle ages. Södermalm or Söder is the opposite of Gamla Stan, more Berliner, with slightly more bearded and pierced restaurants, cafés, bars and clubs. This trip though, as usual, was for food. I’d arrived by train from Copenhagen, which is a nose ahead of the Swedish capital in a Scandi two horse race. Stockholm has been quietly catching up in a very efficient Swedish way though. Most of all it’s a town with a solid foundation of casual dining. You could dig into that foundation starting with the city’s best meatballs in BAKFICKAN Tartar of topside (hip pocket), a tiled and wooden at Slip. diner at the back of the opera house. Then get over that with cocktails in the retro ERLANDS MAT & COCKTAILBAR. If you are still greedy then take your greed to Rolfs Kök, to BABETTE for pizza, or to THE FLYING ELK for not so traditional pub food, always ending with a glass of wine in Gaston. If you are a

restaurant junkie then go to one of Stockholm’s stars, like the woodburning oven heavyweight, EKSTEDT, or the more accessible WOOD. Another one of Sweden’s brightest stars is related to and almost touching distance from the boat where I am staying. The Prince Van Orangiën and its sister restaurants OAXEN KROG and OAXEN SLIP are a nuclear family of dreamy treats on the site of a 17th-century shipyard whose parents are chef Magnus Ek and his wife Agneta Green. Krog is a destination dining gentle two-star. Next door and serviced from the same kitchen is SLIP. The night after the edible theatre of Krog, I dined exclusively on just the snacks and sides from Slip’s bistro menu while watching fat whole fish, the best bits of well minded animals and wild things get carried out to happy families, generations out together over dinner. Simple food but each dish having some mark of the two-star brilliance from next door. You could stay on the boat, and commute across the little wooden bridge to those two restaurants, never see the rest of Stockholm and still have the perfect time. You wouldn’t even need to pack a coat. When I did pack, saying goodbye to my sweet Prince and arriving at the airport (tip: go through security before deciding to eat anything) the absence of police or military was enough to stop you in your tracks. Maybe the Swedes have already built a wall of sorts that has, so far, reduced the kind of fear that currently terrifies most of the rest of the western world. Their wall isn’t made of bricks and mortar, but is a solid structure built of cop-on and peaceful decades of model democratic socialism with some of the world’s best diplomats to explain it all. It’s not Utopia – every country has its problems, its faults, even Sweden – but it’s pretty close. ^ @manandasuitcase

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THE NEXT CHAPTER: Author of 15 books and co-founder of a news site that sold to AOL for $315m in 2011, after 30 years in the media industry, Arianna Huffington is moving on, launching a new wellness website and business next month.

This Glossy Life

Huffington’s Latest Post

With the HuﬀPost behind her, Arianna Huﬃngton’s new project is about changing how we work and live ...

s the co-founder of The Huffington Post, one of the world’s largest news aggregators and most read websites, Arianna Huffington knows a thing or two about burning the candle at both ends. But a collapse from exhaustion in LA nine years ago was the catalyst that changed everything for the Greek-born media mogul. After stepping down as editor-in-chief of the HuffPost in August, she founded Thrive Global, a website focused on helping companies and employees improve their overall wellbeing, which is poised to launch next month. To do so, Huffington says, she needed to rearrange her priorities: “Running both companies would have involved working around the clock, which would be a betrayal of the very principles of Thrive. To truly thrive means knowing when the time has come to close one chapter and start the next; for me that time has arrived.”

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THIS GLOSSY LIFE

where it all started for the HuffPost. After growing up in Athens and moving to England at 16, Arianna Stasinopoúlou studied economics at Cambridge before embarking on a career in media. She wrote several books, among them biographies of Maria Callas and Pablo Picasso, before rising to prominence in the US after a failed Senate bid by her then husband Michael Huffington, a Republican. Her first foray into internet publishing was at Resignation.com, a website which called for the resignation of then-US president Bill Clinton. Her next venture was Arianna Online, which grew out of her syndicated newspaper columns. Then, in 2005, with three others, she set up The Huffington Post. In 2011, she sold the website to AOL for $315m. Her colourful and opulent 2,400 sqft loft on Mercer Street in New York’s Soho, which she purchased for $8m in 2013, is Huffington’s refuge. Here, surrounded by family photographs, books on everything from poetry to philosophy and freshly cut flowers, is where she unwinds, listens to music (classical is a favourite) and recharges. Sleep is Huffington’s favourite topic at the moment, and something she is adamant we need to prioritise. “Sleep deprivation is the new smoking,” she says. “We are very aware of how much battery remains on our phones. It goes below 13 percent and we get a little

“In the same way we need to plug in our phones, we need to UNPLUG OURSELVES ...”

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SLEEP YOUR WAY TO THE TOP Take Huffington’s advice to bed 1. Light suppresses the production of melatonin, which signals us to sleep: blackout blinds are a good investment. “We should make our bedroom a calming, quiet, dark space.” 2. Keep blue lightradiating devices, such as phones and tablets, out of the bedroom. “Think of blue light as an anti-sleeping drug or stimulant.” 3. Turn down the thermostat. “The ideal sleeping temperature is 60-66 degrees Fahrenheit.” 4. Moderate daily exercise will help you

sleep better. “Make it a habit. Try exercising 20 or 30 minutes five days a week.” 5. Eat right, sleep tight. That means avoiding large meals, spicy foods and caffeine before bed. 6. Avoid that nightcap. “Alcohol does indeed initially act as a sedative, but later in the night it is a sleep disrupter.” 7. Try meditating if you wake during the night. “I practice meditation. It takes the stress out of wakefulness.”

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Thrive Global will operate within two business models, corporate and consumer, with Huffington and president Abby Levy at its helm. As well as promoting wellbeing and productivity through wellness courses, including online seminars and technology products (like an app to help employees manage email while on holiday), Thrive will also offer an e-commerce platform, retailing a wide selection of products from scented candles to pillows, mattresses, yoga products, “sleep kits” and food supplements. Also in the pipeline: live events, celebrity partnerships (Kobe Bryant’s name is already in the ring) and corporate retreats taught by Thrive-certified trainers. “The culture is shifting toward the recognition that for people to perform at their best at work they need to take care of themselves,” says Huffington. When Huffington approached Levy, a former independent health advisor, in June, coming on board was a no-brainer. “We’ve known each other for several years and I’ve been a huge fan and supporter of her work,” Levy said. “When I learned that Thrive was becoming a business, I knew I wanted to be involved.” The start-up raised $7m in Series A funding in August and is already working with Accenture to create a pilot training programme. Remarkably, the company is headquartered in the same building, at 100 Crosby Street in New York,

PRIORITIES RIGHT: LEFT: Huffington’s fourteenth book Thrive, published in 2014, was followed this year by The Sleep Revolution. Her apartment is full of reminders of her achievements, though she doesn’t do it all. Very little happens in the tiny kitchen, for instance. “I know how to make a really great cheese plate,” she says. She makes tea, too. ABOVE: Huffington’s very feminine wardrobe, which includes this cobalt Alexander McQueen dress, proves looking the business doesn’t mean power suits and dull fabrics.

THIS GLOSSY LIFE

FAMILY VALUES: Huffington’s daughters are now in their 20s. As a working mother, Huffington, “always felt guilty. I think that’s something every working mother feels. But I don’t think I would’ve been happy if I was not working.”

anxious. We don’t feel the sense of urgency or panic about ourselves. The same way we need to plug in our phones, we need to unplug ourselves.” “Until my collapse, I had no bedtime routine; my routine was texting or emailing on my Blackberry until I turned off the light. If you don’t transition to sleep, you’re going to wake up, as many people do, in the middle of the night and have a harder time going back to sleep.” To disconnect after a long day, Huffington has a routine. “I turn off the phone, the iPad, everything that involves a screen. No overhead lights, just the nightstand lamp.” Then she takes a very hot bath with epsom salts, lavender oil and a flickering candle. “There’s something incredible about water, it’s like washing away the day. Your mind begins to slow down.” Since this is advice from a former workaholic, and media mogul, we don’t feel silly for listening. And when Huffington announces “Great pyjamas are a great investment” we can wholeheartedly concur. Because, as she says, “When I changed the amount of hours of sleep in my life, everything became easier: meditation, exercise, health, relationships, clarity of mind. Everything changed.” ^

TAKING A NIGHT STAND: No phone, no digital clock. “My nightstand is a little bit like an altar: a candle, some flowers, a picture of my daughters and my dream book.”

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