Valle dell'Orco - From trad to sport climbing

36

N45 26.004 E7 15.407

South

N45 26.161 E7 15.482 (route nr 7)

10-20 min.

Description: the Dado is a recognisable white wall situated above the village of Prese di Ceresole, carved out by a wrinkle, covered by an aid route named “L’Escargot”. On the left hand sector, which is less imposing, unexpectedly a beautiful crack emerges, the route “Bianca Parete”, originally climbed aid. To the left other great cracks which have recently been revalued. Above the Dado the wall of Sitting Bull is situated, half hidden by the woods. Rock: granite, sometimes loose. Climbing style: athletic in cracks. Aspect: south.

Dado

Ideal season: summer or autumn. Height: 50/60 m. Equipment: the routes need to be protected with nuts and cams, but you will also find a few bolted single pitches. Eating and overnight facilities: Hotel Blanchetti, where you leave your car. Approach: from the village of Prese di Ceresole

climb up the meadows towards the base of the two rock structures (from 10 to 20 minutes). To reach Sitting Bull you need to a follow a trail in the woods to the left of the Dado but even if the itinerary is short, it is not evident and easy to find for first timers, especially during the summer season when it is invaded by vegetation. Alternatively it is possible to continue along the road towards Ceresole for roughly 400 metres beyond the Hotel Blanchetti, going beyond the first petrol pump and then Hotel Scoiattoli’s large wooden sign post and shortly after turn right into a steep paved road which climbs up the side of a few Chalets. Follow the road (pedestrian access) till it ends, near a small group of restructured huts, cross the stream on their left and find a trail in the woods which climbs up obliquely towards north-east, to the meadow situated at the base of the unmistakeable Z shaped crack. Descent: abseil down the route. Other routes: to the right of Escargot there are two single pitches with a few bolts, but they look dirty and as if no one has ever climbed them. They have probably been bolted by German climbers.

Sasso del Non dire DANCE IN TRAD tunnel

DROIDE

Pont C.

burnt down hut

DADO masso Kosterlitz

PIETRA FILOSOFALE

Torr. Orco

Ceresole

306

Prese cross country skiing centre

camping La Pescheria

Chiarai

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Valle dell'Orco - From trad to sport climbing

Published on Aug 27, 2010

Versante Sud srl

This guide book describes the walls of Valle dell’Orco, from its crags to the legendary walls of Sergent and Caporal, ending with Colle del Nivolet. The many routes opened over the past few years and the increase in visits to the valley, especially by foreigners, convinced the author to write a book which is not a simple guide with grades and names of routes, but also the source of inspiration for new generations. This book suggests a path to follow, a possible direction for climbing without forgetting the past. Maurizio Oviglia with his customary precision and clarity has listed all the old and new itineraries of the valley, after repeating almost all of them and verifying their grade.