SARCA WALLS

COLLANA LUOGHI VERTICALI

EDIZIONI VERSANTE SUD

First italian edition: March 2002 Second edition (in english language): April 2007 Third edition: May 2013 ISBN: 978-88-896634-85-1 Copyright Š 2013 VERSANTE SUD S.r.l. Milano via Longhi,10 Phone +39027490163 www.versantesud.it All translation, reproduction, adaptation and electronic registration, either totally or partially, by any methods, are rights reserved for all countries.

Cover photo Jorg Verhoeven on Brento Centro (photo Heiko Wilhelm) Text and drawings Diego Filippi Translations Alexandra Ercolani and Kenny Stocker Print Monotipia Cremonese Acknowledgements My thanks go to Versante Sud which has believed in and invested in this publication for the third time.

Thanks to all my friends and climbing partners, for all the days spent on the Sarca walls, repeating forgotten routes and setting up new ones, and a special thank you to Roly Galvagni, Luca Pilati, Chistian Della Maria, Fabio Demetri and Francesco Devigili.

Thanks also to Sass Baloss, Matteo Bertolotti and Luca Galbiati for all the photographs taken.

Thanks to all the alpinists who have opened the last 200 routes.

Thank you Ruggero from La Lanterna restaurant, at San Paolo, for the hospitality offered to all climbers.

NOTE Climbing is a potentially dangerous sport, and those that partake do so at their own risk. All the descriptions in this guide have been based on information available at the time, but this should always be evaluated for yourself or by a qualified person before undertaking any climb.

Diego Filippi

ARCO WALLS

Classic and modern routes in the Sarca Valley Piccolo Dain Monte Casale Pian dela Paia Placche Zebrate Monte Brento Cima alle Coste Coste dell'Anglone Mandrea Monte Colt - San Paolo Monte Colodri

EDIZIONI VERSANTE SUD

Preface and Introduction 4

Preface The warm rays of sunshine make me break out in a sweat after only five minutes of walking up the steep path to the base of a crack full of old and unsafe pegs. The sunlight paints the wall with endless light, as infinite as the overhanging line which climbs up towards the sky. Nowadays all our thoughts and worries will disappear and this ascent will teach us how to breathe and how to think only of ourselves.

Many times I have found myself on the ledge of the piccolo Dain looking up trying to imagine Angelo Ursella gazing up on that day seeking immortality.

The line we are about to repeat is one of the oldest routes opened in the Sarca Valley, but for me it will forever be the most fascinating.

Etrieres and hard carpentry work are the ingredients needed to progress up this route.

Nowadays this all sounds a little old-fashioned but proud of being non-conformist we continue till we reach the summit. The spectacle is unique. Hanging from this anchor the cold wind sweeps up our feelings and carries them towards the valley opening, where the climate is milder and the lake sweetly cradles it. From this hanging belay it is as if we can dominate the entire valley. Generations of alpinists have followed the cracks and powered through overhangs, but above all, they have looked up at the mountains.

Great men have marked indelible ascent lines.

Detassis used ice pegs to climb the aesthetic route Canna d’Organo. Classic routes alternate with sports routes. Aid climbing embraces the innovative routes set up and created

by Heinz Grill, mixing with the signs of those who don’t want to leave any traces.

These mountains and all their lines would be nothing if it weren’t for these men and their dreams. Dreams carved out by our thoughts

and cradled by the ability to share, the sharing between climbing partners; this leads us to something indescribable for the majority of people but extremely clear for mountaineers.

It is the relationship between people and the consequent sharing of moments which develop while climbing a route which transform a simple ascent into something special. The Sarca Valley is a fantastic world, made of lights and colours, made of dreams and wishes. The Sarca Valley is everything and nothing.

It is not easy to describe a valley. One should describe the people that visited it, the people that have loved that valley and still do so to this day. One should talk about the people who with child like simplicity still manage to find new lines, new adventures.

Diego’s story is like many others who have fallen in love with the valley, six years ago he was just a photo I had on a book full of pictures describing ascents which for me were sometimes too difficult, and today he is a Friend who I share these vertical adventures with. He is definitely the most important gift the Sarca Valley has given me.

To say that Diego is in love with the Valley is an oversimplification. It is a statement which does not convey the passion which emanates every day from when Diego comes down from Sopramonte into this magical world.

It doesn’t matter if it is walking, climbing, climbing a ferrata or fixing an approach path.

The main thing is to glance up at these walls and start talking to them.

To write this page, knowing that I was preceded by two great alpinists such as Samuele Scalet and Maurizio Giordani is a great honour for me. An honour that only a Friend can grant.

Matteo Bertolotti

Introduction This new edition is not just an update of the 2007 publication but a new guide: with new and improved text and fully renewed sketches.

Over the past five years, the Sarca Valley has literally exploded, both in the number of routes opened and the number of climbers present. In recent years over 200 routes, of every type and difficulty, have been opened: they are almost always beautiful and deserve to be repeated, and are highly recommended. In all, there are around 520 routes described in this guide! A good number, since they are routes, which are on average two to three hundred metres long.

Our valley is becoming richer and more beautiful, and my thanks go first to all the climbers who have opened new routes. By now, opening new routes in the Sarca Valley besides the cost of pegs and bolts, means a lot of hard work

to the third edition

cleaning the rock and clearing the wall from loose rock, this is a huge sacrifice to be acknowledged and respected. You must remember that there are no professional bolters in the Sarca Valley and those who do it pay out of their own pocket, not only financially but also in terms of time and commitment.

Moreover, we should also remember that even if we are climbing on abundantly bolted crags in the valley, which are very busy, we are always climbing on dangerous walls due to rockfall.

Rock fall is the main danger we can encounter in the valley, therefore avoid a route if it is too crowded. Also be careful on very windy days or after heavy rain. Having said this, all I can do is wish you all great climbing in this small but wonderful adventure park.

Diego Filippi

DIEGO FILIPPI Guida Alpina Bergf端hrer Mountain Guide

e -mail: sarcavalley@gmail.com phone: 3487658394

5

Index and map 16

Piccolo Dain 1 South-East Face 2 Buttress 3 Parete del Limarò 4 Parete della Centrale

18 20 42 46 62

Cima alle Coste 21 Parete centrale 22 Lo Scudo 23 South Face 24 Guglia Solidarnosc 25 L’Antiscudo

286 288 298 318 324 330

Coste dell’Anglone 26 Sass dela Vecia 27 Anglone south 28 Anglone north 29 Cà del Liscio 30 Piramide Lakshmi

340 342 358 376 390 396

MONTE Casale 5 Parete Centrale 6 Second Pillar 7 First Pillar 8 Muro dei Meridiani 9 Croz dei Pini 10 Spalla Sud

70 72 82 92 110 114 124

Pian dela Paia 11 Il Transatlantico 12 Parete Gandhi 13 Il Dain

130 132 138 148

Mandrea 414 31 I Pilastri 416 32 Parete Centrale 426 33 Mandrea north 444

Parete Zebrata 14 Sport climbing sector 15 Parete Centrale 16 Pala dele Lastiele

178 180 204 236

Monte Brento 17 Grande Placconata 18 Pilastro Magro 19 Strapiombi Centrali 20 East Face

246 248 260 266 278

Monte Colt – SAN PAOLO 34 Parete Centrale 35 Muro di Oceania 36 Parete Sconosciuta 37 Croce di Ceniga 38 Parete di San Paolo

464 466 482 494 500 504

MONTE Colodri 39 South Face 40 East Face 41 Pilastro Zanzara 42 Rupe Secca

550 552 564 576 592

MADONNA DI CAMPIGLIO

Piccolo Dain 967 m.

3 1 4

TRENTO

2 SARCHE 7

M.te Casale 1636 m.

8

6 5 10

9

11

Pian 12 dela Paia Parete Zebrata M.te Brento 1535 m.

20 19 18

PIETRAMURATA

13 16 15

14

17 24

Cima 21 22 23 alle Coste Coste dell'Anglone

Mandrea

30 29 28 27 37

DRO

36 34 38

35

41 40 39

Co

31

lod

ri

32

Mo

nte

33

Co lt

26

25

42

RIVA DEL GARDA

ARCO ROVERETO 17

Piccolo Dain

Piccolo Dain path leading to Ranzo

3

Ferrata R. Pisetta Madonna di Campiglio

Piccolo Dain 971 m.

1

4 2

P

Trento

bowling car park

P

car park

Sarche

PICCOLO DAIN

Sarca ri

ver

1 2 3 4

SOUTH-EAST FACE BUTTRESS PARETE DEL LIMARO' PARETE DELLA CENTRALE

Arco

Piccolo Dain is the final summit in the Paganella group however its rock is more similar to that of the Casale-M.Brento chain. Two spectacular faces have been formed on the southeast and west flanks; the south-east face is a vertical precipice standing above Sarche while

18

the west side is a wild and suggestive wall dominating the deep Limarò canyon. The difficult and spectacular 'Rino Pisetta' ferrata runs up the east side of the face.

Luca Galbiati, Diedro Maestri, Piccolo Dain (ph. sassbaloss.com)

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19

Piccolo Dain – South-East Face

1 South-East Face

Piccolo Dain

The walls are sunny and very attractive; vertical and compact they seem to dominate the entire valley. Piccolo Dain has an important place in history attracting some of the finest alpinists to come out of Trento such as Bruno Detassis, Cesare Maestri and Bepi Loss, while a new generation of climbers has put up aesthetic and difficult sport routes. This large face is cut in two by a perfect and regular corner known as the 'Canna D'Organo'. The wall to the left is known as the 'Parete Sud' (South Face), while that to the right is the 'Parete Sud-Est' (South East Face).

0.45 h 1.30 h 450 m.

Access From Sarche park near the bowling ground follow the path which leads towards the "R.Pisetta" ferrata. As soon as you are in the woods, on a flat section, leave the path and turn left up a steep track indicated with red marks. This trail leads to the junction for Ranzo (return route from ferrata).

For the routes on the south face (from route Amelie to route Rostagno) turn

SE

LOSS

AMELIE

SOUTH FACE

DUDAEV

SOUTH-EAST FACE

CANNA D’ORGANO

SCIROCCO

Ranzo VECIOTI… FRECCIA…

ROSTAGNO

CAI tr retur ail via fe ning from rrata

MAZZOTTI

LA ROSA DEI VENTI

ELIA

SENZA… LUCE…

DAIN BUTTRESS

LOTTA…

Bowling Sarche

Campiglio

20

Sarche

Arco

Trento

PILASTRO MASSUD

Via Ferrata R. Pisetta

left towards Ranzo and after a section with steps equipped with metal cables you will reach the bottom of the south face. For the other routes (from the Detassis route to the Massud route) continue by following the path. After a short while leave the path and turn left along a trail which with cairns and red marks, leads to the east face.

Descent For all routes it is best to descend carefully to the left, among bushes and rock steps, till you find an evident trail which descends down the west side of Piccolo Dain. Be careful along a few very exposed sections which have been equipped with fixed ropes.

Once you reach the path which is the return route from the via ferrata you easily reach the bottom of the valley.

1 LE STRANE VOGLIE DI AMELIE

250 m.

2 MISTER MAGOO

120 m.

3 JOHN COFFEY

140 m.

4 DUDAEV

180 m.

5 SCIROCCO

200 m.

6 VALERIO FONTANA

180 m.

7 DIRETTISSIMA LOSS

250 m.

8 LA ROSA DEI VENTI

250 m.

9 ULTIMA FIAMMA

300 m.

10 SENZA CHIEDERE PERMESSO

300 m.

11 LUCE DEL PRIMO MATTINO

400 m.

12 BEPI MAZZOTTI

400 m.

13 LE VRAI PLAISIR

400 m.

14 MAURO ROSTAGNO

500 m.

15 CANNA D’ORGANO

350 m.

16 ELIA

400 m.

17 VECIOTI E ZOVENOTI

450 m.

18 FRECCIA NEL CIELO

450 m.

19 PILASTRO MASSUD

200 m.

21

Piccolo Dain – Parete del Limarò

3 Parete del Limarò 0.15 h 0.40 h 450 m.

SW

Piccolo Dain

This wall looks like a huge open book, a large dihedral, rarely found in the Alps. It takes its name from the canyon: a deep crack carved out by the Sarca torrent. Along the large dihedral a beautiful and difficult line put up

by Cesare Maestri climbs up logically. Up the sides of this route, very severe and difficult trad and sports routes run up these vertiginous walls.

Access From Sarche, drive up towards Madonna di Campiglio, just before the bridge which crosses the river Sarca turn left along a little road, reach a large car park with fountain and play ground.

Follow the road which leads to Madonna di Campiglio till you reach the first wide hair pin bend and descend into the canyon along the dirt road.

With the help of enormous containment nets it is possible to cross the torrent easily.

If there is a lot of water it might be difficult to cross the torrent.

Descent Traverse the woods in an easterly direction until joining the path that leads back to Sarche.

46

23 EFFETTI COLLATERALI

120 m.

24 LA SALSA DELL’ORSO

120 m.

25 SPIGOLO DEL LIMARO’

400 m.

26 LUCE RIFLESSA

400 m.

27 VIA GADOTTI

400 m.

28 MITICA E NOCCIOLINA

400 m.

29 SPAZIO ALLA FANTASIA

400 m.

30 VIA PEGORETTI COVI

400 m.

31 LA CADUTA DEGLI DEI

400 m.

32 LA TIGRE IL DAINO E IL GLADIATORE

400 m.

33 DIEDRO MAESTRI

400 m.

34 VICOLO CIECO

450 m.

35 AMICO BERTO

450 m.

36 CONTATTO RADICALE

450 m.

47

GADOTTI

LUCE RIFLESSA

SPIGOLO DEL LIMARO’

SPAZIO…

MITICA…

PEGORETI COVI

CADUTA DEGLI DEI

Sarca river

VICOLO CIECO

DIEDRO MAESTRI

LA TIGRE

AMICO BERTO

PARETE DEL LIMARO'

CONTATTO RADICALE

LA ZETA DI ZORRO

30

28

25

29 27 26

33

27a

29 28 26 25

27

31 30

32

37

33 34

36 35

59

Piccolo Dain – Parete del Limarò

34 VICOLO CIECO H H H D. Filippi 2008 450 m. (13P) A1, A2, a move of 6a/S1/III This itinerary retraces the characteristics of the nearby route Amico Berto, or that is a first part along grey leaning slabs and a second part made of yellow and overhanging walls. The climbing is mainly aid, except for a few pitches along the first part of the ascent and the last pitches which offer fun climbing along a characteristic dihedral-chimney. The rock is amazing, incredibly compact and solid. Limarò’s striking and enchanting environment, of rare beauty surrounds the route: the noise of the torrent keeps you company as you climb the route. The route was bolted entirely and abundantly with 8mm bolts and to repeat it you will only need quick-draws and two etrieres each. This ascent, as for Amico Berto, due to the ease in progressing aid represents an excellent opportunity to practice using etrieres to then move onto more difficult ascents.

Start: from the start of the Diedro Maestri follow a narrow ledge which enters the wall on the right.

35 AMICO BERTO D. Filippi 2007 450 m. (11P) A1, A2/S1/III This route climbs up the large wall on the right of Diedro Maestri. The wall which is 450 metres high is divided in two parts: the lower part, 250 m long is made up of grey slabs, leaning and covered in vegetation. The upper part instead is made up of long yellow overhanging slabs.

This route which has explorative characteristics, looks for the more logical and beautiful line climbed completely aid. It represents an excellent first approach to this kind of climbing, as well as great training for the route Vertigine.

The entire route is bolted with 8mm bolts and to repeat the route it is necessary to bring, only if you alternate them, 20 quickdraws, and naturally a pair of etrieres each. The rock face

V+

VICOLO CIECO

VI V+

A1 A1

yellow overhangs

A1

A1

A1 LA ZETA DI ZORRO

A1

A1

A1

A2

A2

A1

A1

A1

big grey slabs

A1

H H H

60

V+

A1 A1

A1

A1 grassy ledges

AMICO BERTO

A1

II DIEDRO MAESTRI

A1

A1 III

A1 A1

CONTATTO RADICALE

is beautiful and the rock extremely solid. The route, fun to climb, is immersed in a wild environment of rare beauty. Beware, if you choose to abseil down from the second part of the route, this could result problematic. This route is dedicated to our friend Umberto Marampon and his beautiful routes.

Start: roughly 50 m to the right of Diedro Maestri. Name at the base.

36 CONTATTO RADICALE H H H A. Toni Zanetti, M. Brighente 2010 450 m. (14P) 6b, A1 (5c obl.)/S1/III Interesting itinerary with mixed climbing, free and aid, amidst the beautiful and striking environment of Limarò. The ascent line follows the wall’s weak sections as much as possible, such as ledges, dihedrals and cracks. Almost all pitches offer sections of free climbing with moves in aid, the equipment is excellent: the bolts are placed nearby and you only need to bring quick-draws to repeat the route. Eventually an etriere could come in useful for the A1 moves. The climbing along the first part of the route is disturbed by vegetation, but higher up along the yellow slabs and overhangs the ascent becomes exciting, exposed and worth climbing. The exposed traverses along the 10th and 13th pitches are beautiful.

Start: just to the right of Amico Berto, plaque with name at the base.

easy traverse

A1 LA ZETA DI ZORRO

5b

overhanging dihedral

6a 6a

AMICO BERTO

A1 6b 5c A1 big leaning slab

A1 5c A1 6a good crack

CONTATTO RADICALE

4a hidden dihedral

5b

A1 6a

smooth slab

Ao 6b

5b good

dihedral

AMICO BERTO

A1 6a 5c Ao grass

61

Cima alle Coste

Cima alle Coste Sarche

stanga

24

23

P

Lago Bagattoli

21

22 25

CIMA ALLE COSTE

masso Antiscudo capitello

21 PARETE CENTRALE 22 LO SCUDO 23 SOUTH FACE 24 GUGLIA Solidarnosc 25 L'ANTISCUDO

distributore

ometto discesa al sentiero dell’Anglone

Arco

Known also as "Gran diedro di Dro", this face resembles an immense corner at the point where two formidable faces meet: the South face is high, vertical, crumbly and frightful and home to several of the most extreme routes in the valley, while the East or central face is meeker and more accessible. The good quality of rock on this face has made possible several new routes in the past few years.

These sport style routes climb the low buttress named "Lo Scudo" or The Shield. Given the number of routes on this face it can be considered to be an independent sector.

286

Towards the east end of the south face a long and sharp arete terminates with a nice detached pillar. This pillar is very visible when approaching the face and is known as "Guglia Solidarnosch". The side that overlooks the valley contains some very interesting routes.

One of the valley's most historic routes climbs the large corner, climbed in 1966 by Heinz Steinkotter and friends. This route, which has only been repeated in its lower part, is now almost forgotten due to the crumbly and vegetated nature of the rock.

Claudia Farruggia, Diedro Martini, Cima alle Coste (sassbaloss.com)

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287

Cima alle Coste – L'Antiscudo

25 L'Antiscudo 0.30 h 0.40 h 130 m.

E

Cima alle Coste

This sector was discovered and appraised by Roly Galvagni and Massimo Maceri. For “Antiscudo” we mean the not so obvious but characteristic rock band which you go round to reach the routes of Cima alle Coste. This band of solid grey slabs offers a series of great and deserving routes, recommended especially in late autumn or during sunny winter days. The climbing is generally on slab, with a few moves in dihedrals and cracks. The protection is quite good and abundant, bolts are used.

Access Along the forestry road which leads to Lago Bagattoli park just before the barrier. Follow the forestry road and at the second hair pin bend turn onto the little road on the left (acess shared with Cima alle Coste). After a flat section, turn onto the tracks to the right (boulder with Antiscudo written on it) which enters the woods and leads to the base of the wall.

Descent Usually abseiling down the routes. Or else on foot: follow, to the left, a track keeping close to the wall till you find some cairns which lead to a seep gully. This gully is equipped with fixed ropes and quickly leads to the base of the wall.

34 OTRA VEZ 35 AGUAS DE MARZO

120 m.

36 TEMPESTA ORMONALE

120 m.

37 DIEDRO BEPI FLOR

120 m.

38 L’INVERNO DEI MOICANI

330

80 m.

90 m.

39 PROGETTO DHARMA

120 m.

40 OVER THE RAINBOW

120 m.

41 INVISIBILE TOUCH

120 m.

42 JEAN JEAN

120 m.

43 BARBIE GIRL

120 m.

44 PREMIATA FORNERIA

120 m.

45 FONDAZIONE LEBOWSKI

120 m.

46 POPOLARE NETWORK

120 m.

47 CANE CICO

120 m.

48 LO STAFFODROMO

130 m.

49 SHANGAI

120 m.

50 CARLO MAGNO

120 m.

331

34

35

36 37 38 39 40

41 42 43

44 45

46

46

45

47

48

285