Di roccia di sole - Climbing in Sicily

COLLANA LUOGHI VERTICALI

COLLANA LUOGHI VERTICALI

Massimo Cappuccio Chiara Cianciolo Giuseppe Gallo

CLIMBING TECHNOLOG Logo CT per risvolto di c

DI ROCCIA DI SOLE Climbing in Sicily

EDIZIONI VERSANTE SUD

EDIZIONI VERSANTE SUD

Fourth Edition October 2015 ISBN 978-88-98609-37-6 Copyright © 2015 VERSANTE SUD S.r.l. Milano via Longhi, 10, tel. 027490163 www.versantesud.it All rights reserved world wide. No part of this book can be translated, electronically copied, reproduced, adapted partially or totally by any means.

Cover

Bunker, Daila Ojeda, Il ritorno dei Nomadi 6c+ (Ph. R. Zampino)

Text

Massimo Cappuccio, Chiara Cianciolo, Giuseppe Gallo

Translation to english

Alexandra Ercolani

Illustrations

Chiara Benedetto

Symbols

Ilaria Niccoli

Layout

Bruno Quaresima

Printing

Tipografia Pagani, Lumezzane (BS)

Acknowledgements The authors wish to thank Davide Gallo, Tommaso Tamagnini and Emanuele Andreozzi for personally helping them to update this guide book. The following people collaborated: Stefano Anile for the bouldering section, Roberto Zampino and Johnny Bonaventura for the DWS section. Thanks also go to: Ivan Savoi, Daniele Arena, Salvatore Poma, Mauro Calibani, Berni Rivadossi, Christian Leube, Dario di Gabriele and Sebastian Schwertner for the updating of San Vito lo Capo, Luigi Cutietta for bringing up to date Valdesi and Fabrice Calabrese for the multi-pitch routes in western Sicily. Ignazio Mannarano, Pep Puig, Rosario Cammara and Mirko Cangiamila for the Palermo sectors, Sergio Soraci, Nikos Lo Giudice and Marco Puleo for the crags of Catania and Messina.

In addition, all the bolters for the info on the new sectors inserted in this latest update, Regan McCaffrey for the photos kindly donated by him, and finally Gabriella Cianciolo, Antonella Cusimano and Isabella Anastasi for their precious advice.

Note Climbing is a potentially dangerous sport in which participation is entirely at your own risk. All the information in this guide has been updated based upon information at the time of publication, however it is vital to evaluate every situation yourself before placing yourself in a life threatening situation or to seek the advice of experienced and qualified individuals.

ZERO-KMS

The writers of this guide live and develop climbing on their own territory

ZERO-KMS guidebook!

This is a “zero-kms” guidebook What does that mean?

It means it is healthier and tastier, because produced by local climbers.

Like 0 kilometre tomatoes ?

Yes of course!

And definitely genuine.

Local writers bring positive input to those who climb: -they have up to date info -they don’t just send you to the more popular spots -they reinvest what they earn into new crags local writers are good for the territory they only publish what is publishable -they are careful to promote all the areas -they have a great local network and finally the most important thing: they have left a little piece of their heart on these rocks.

ZERO-KMS

The writers of this guide live and develop climbing on their own territory

Massimo Cappuccio Chiara Cianciolo Giuseppe Gallo

DI ROCCIA DI SOLE Climbing in Sicily

EDIZIONI VERSANTE SUD

Indice

Map 6 Introduction 8 Technical introduction 14 Outline 21 Messina 1 San Fratello

16

Rocche del Crasto 2 Nebrodi 3 Rocca Calanna

20 22 24

4 Artino’s Wall 5 Capo Calavà 6 Castelmola 7 Stockholm 8 Cesarò-Rocca Giannina

30 34 46 54 58

The other crags of Messina Mazzarò Molino

61

Catania 9 Acqua Rocca 10 Bronte 11 Sarbaggio

62 64 66

Siracusa 12 Brucoli

4

70

Monti Climiti 13 Panettone 14 Bunker 15 Ziroman 16 Canalone Sud 17 Curvone 18 Sortino 19 Pantalica 20 Cassaro 21 Anapo

72 74 80 84 86 92 96 98 108 110

Contrada Alfano 22 Antro dell’Eco 23 Nome e Cognome 24 Paradox Wall 25 Pisciotta 26 Contralfano 27 Grotta Re Lucertola

114 116 122 126 128 130 132

28 Arance Rosse 29 Arena

134 136

30 Cavadonna 31 Cugno Lupo 32 Cava della Contessa 33 Cava Grande 34 Sant’Andrea 35 Gole della Stretta 36 Timpa Rossa 37 Secret Garden

138 146 150 154 168 172 176 180

The other crags of Siracusa New School – Canicattini La Pagoda Bellavista

184

Ragusa 38 Cava d’Ispica 39 Iaddinara 40 Cimitero 41 Ambiguità 42 Pandora 43 Umpa Lumpa 44 The Wall

186 192 196 200 204 208 210

The other crags of Ragusa 214 Castelluccio Settore Ibleo Cava d’Ispica Settore Ascensore Cava d’Ispica Settore Catacombe Cava d’Ispica Settore Il Balcone Trapani San Vito Lo Capo Monte Monaco 45 Nuova Ossessione 46 Sperone Est 47 Cattedrale nel Deserto 48 Parete Nord Monte Monaco 49 Pizzo Monaco

216 220 222 226 234 242 254

Scogliera di Salinella 50 Calamancina 51 Campo Base 52 Grotta del Cavallo e Grotta dei Santi 53 Bunker + Two Caves 54 Portella delle vacche 55 Campeggio 56 Sinistra Pietraia 57 Pineta + Pineta Grotta 58 Scomparto Rifiuti

262 264 272 276 282 292 298 304 308 314

59 Torre Isulidda 60 Far Side + Salinella Sud

318 314

Macari 61 Lost World 62 Castelluzzo outdoor 63 Crown of Aragon 64 Nuovo Cinema Paradiso

328 330 332 338

Custonaci-Cornino 65 Parco Cerriolo + Grotta Cerriolo 66 Never Sleeping Wall

The other crags of Trapani Cala Firriato Fakiro’s beach Valanga Torre Radio Nord Fiamme gialle

342 348 352

Palermo Monte Pellegrino 67 Lo Schiavo 68 Discesa Valdesi 69 Spigolo Valdesi 70 Pablo 71 Valdesi

354 356 366 368 370 372

Addaura 72 Mariella Crack’n Up 73 Preistoria 74 Antro della Perciata 75 Parete Nord 76 Parete dei Rotoli 77 Paretone

388 392 396 398 402 404

Monte Gallo 78 Bauso Rosso

406 408

Capo Gallo 79 Grotta degli Svizzeri 80 Capo Gallo vie 81 Monte Santa Margherita 82 Quota 280 83 Punta Baloo 84 Pizzo della Sella

418 420 422 434 440 442 444

85 Pizzo Impastato 86 Uqbar 87 Terrasini

456 458 460

Rocca Busambra 88 Rocca Busambra Parete Nord

462 466

89 Parete Nord Quota 1245m 90 Rocca Ramusa 91 Pizzo Nicolosi 92 Pizzo Lungo

468 470 474 478

Madonie Caltavuturo 93 Cabeci 94 Gazzara 95 Rocca di Sciara 2 96 Rocca di Sciara 1080m 97 Monte d’Oro 98 Contrada Croce

482 484 486 490 500 502 506 518

The other crags of Palermo Anfiteatro Kemonia Passo Scuro

520

Bouldering in Sicily

522

DWS in Sicily

524

The main characters and bolters Sergio Soraci (San Fratello) Massimo Flaccavento (Artino’s Wall) BoBo’s Team (Stockholm) David Gallo (Anapo) Christian Leube (Cugno Lupo) Dario Di Gabriele (Secret Garden) Giorgio Iurato (Ambiguità) Alessandro Garetto (The Wall) Tommaso Tamagnini (N. Ossessione) Daniele Arena (Portella delle vacche) Manfred Neumayr (Crown of Aragon) Roby Manfrè Scuderi (Schiavo) Antonio Nastri (Bauso Rosso) Ignazio Mannarano (Bauso Rosso) Maurizio Oviglia (Capo Gallo) Rosario Cammara (Caltavuturo)

19 33 55 112 147 181 201 211 223 293 335 357 415 415 423 487

5

6

Marsala

Trapani

Castelvetrano

45-66

85-87

Sciacca

Partanna

Scopello Castellamare

San Vito Lo Capo

Corleone

88-91

S. Giuseppe Iato

92 93-96

Agrigento

Caltavuturo

67-84 Palermo

Capo Gallo Mondello

Madonie

97-98

Enna

Gela

Caltanissetta

Castelbuono Collesano

CefalĂš

9

13-18

22-27 28-30 Canicattini 31-33

Monti Iblei

19

36-37 39-40 Rosolini Scicli 38

Siracusa

Zafferana

Brucoli

12

6 7 Taormina

Catania

Sortino Floridia

Modica

41-44

Etna

11

Nicolosi

20-21

Buccheri

34-35

10

Bronte

8

2-3-4 Nebrodi

Ragusa

1

5

Capo CalavĂ Gioiosa S. Agata

Messina

MY PASSION MY CLIMB MY MATIK Cambia la tua scalata, scopri il nuovo Matik: il rivoluzionario assicuratore-discensore a frenata assistita che con la sua bassa forza d’arresto e il sistema antipanico si prende cura di te e della tua corda. Alza il livello: da oggi, col nuovo Matik, la tua scalata non sarà più la stessa.

www.camp.it

Redpoint (8a/+ - 9a) 14

9a 8c 8b/c

8b+

8b

8a+/8b 8a+/b

8a+

8a/+

Climb for Life Grotta Cerriolo Pazza Idea Cassaro La Spada Di Damocle Cava Donna Siamo casi difficili Pandora Superfly Cugno Lupo Mr. Mean Re Lucertola The Fan The Wall King Line Sinistra Pietraia Custonaci Parco Cerriolo Shemale’n Da Hood Cava Donna Mio Cugino L’esorcista Bauso This City Killing Me Pandora Anchor Punch Cugno Lupo Dragon Trainer Pandora Torello Ambiguità Batman Cala Mancina Tsingy rouge Grotta dei Santi Sanvito Festival Sinistra Pietraia Articiok Grotta Cerriolo Mava Cala Mancina Buffalo Soldiers Parco Cerriolo Il mio nome è nessuno Grotta Cerriolo Jonny dalla bocca larga Campo Base Fred Düber Cattedrale nel Deserto Ice and rest Lo Schiavo Mancano solo 100 metri Cugno Lupo Hell in a Bucket Cugno Lupo Lochness Nessie Cavadonna Gangnam Style Cugno Lupo Speedline Cugno Lupo Jumangji Gole della Stretta New Technology Arena Naturalmente Natural Arena Miei sogni e i miei perché Nome E Cognome Nero D’avola Arance Rosse Finocchi Compiaciuti Re Lucertola Variante Robin Cala Mancina Solid As A Rock Cassaro Produci Consuma Crepa Pandora Nuova Vita Umpa Lumpa Niente Torna Mai Umpa Lumpa Luna Piena L2 Ambiguità 99 Guerre Pandora Teoria del suono Ambiguità 2 Anni Per Convincersi Nuova Ossessione Minor S’appiglia Bauso Just A Moment Cala Mancina Jonas Winter Cala Mancina E sopra ti bagni Pandora Sea Simphony Cala Mancina Mi può fare accendere (after tufa breaking off) Crown of Aragon Dreamworld Sinistra Pietraia Sound Garden P2 Pineta Grotta

Adam Ondra

Christian Leube Dario di Gabriele Mauro Calibani Christian Leube Vincent Degirolamo Christian Leube Dario di Gabriele

Mauro Calibani Berni Rivadossi Christian Leube Stefano Ghisolfi Daniel Jung Valerio Casari Christian Leube Christian Leube Christian Leube Christian Leube Christian Leube Dario di Gabriele Ian Smolen Ian Smolen Giorgio Iurato Luca Passini Dario di Gabriele Giorgio Iurato Arthur Kubista Berni Rivadossi Arthur Kubista Dario di Gabriele Christian Leube Neil Gresham

Altitude

600m

S

Aspect

Beauty Splendid

Nice

Sufficient Terrible Pay attention Good Perfect

Equipment

Not exciting

!

Warning on climbing in crags close to the sea

30’

Approach

Nr. of visitors

Low Medium High Overcrowding

Comfort

Uncomfortable Uneven Comfortble

Parking

Difficult Sufficient Good Very good

For beginners Can climb when raining For families Danger rock fall

QR Code car park

Multipitch routes ?

8b 8a 7c 7b 7a 6c 6b 6a 5c <5c

19 9

18

25 25

20

Nr. of pitchs by difficult

33 41 39 38

311 44

15

06 Messina

Messina

Castelmola 500m

Rocche del Crasto – Castelmola

S

20’

06 lower one named il Masso and the other one settore superiore (upper sector).

The area on which the upper sector is situated falls on private land, but this has not prevented it from becoming one of eastern Sicily’s busiest crags. Eventually ask local climbers for any information on the current situation, and in any case use common sense and diplomacy if you are invited by the owner to leave the area.

The “Masso” routes do not fall in the same area and it is possible to climb here with no problem.

The first routes were bolted during the eighties by S.Soraci, G.Sturniolo and

Castelmola is a characteristic town perched at more than five hundred metres of altitude with a splendid view onto the sea and Mt.Etna. It rises a few kilometres after the more famous Taormina and it surely benefits from the great flow of tourists present all year round. The crag consist of a beautiful rocky band of limestone which is a few hundred metres long, and situated on the southern face of Monte Ziretto.

The area is very peaceful and there is a beautiful view which stretches out from the hills all the way to the sea.

The crag is divided into two sectors, a soccer field

gate Ristorante Chicchirichì

Ogliastrello

ruins 15

Monte Ziretto

min

.

IlIlMasso UpperSuperiore Sector Masso Settore

Castelmola

Taormina

7c 7b 7a 6c 6b 6a <6

46

5 12 14 12 7

10

17

79

L.Catalfamo. It is also thanks to the contribution of other young and strong climbers who come from eastern Sicily, that the crag is continuously expanding and the routes are growing both in amount and difficulty.

Due to the crag’s sun exposure during the summer months it is preferable to climb late afternoon, throughout the rest of the year the area is very pleasant except for some windy winter mornings.

All the routes are great with technical and fingery climbing on Masso and a bit more athletic on the superiore sector.

Back up points Taormina and Castelmola are probably the island’s main tourist centres, and offer everything for tourists and travellers, they are of a mediumhigh standard, and for those who are travelling on a tight budget it is best to look elsewhere.

There are many cheap restaurants, but if you are looking for cheap accomodation you have to go along the coast to Giardini Naxos towards Letojanni where many campsites and room rentals are available.

Access From Taormina continue to Castelmola, after about three kilometres turn right at the bend in the road and follow a little road downhill, follow the sign-posts for the Chicchirichì restaurant where, close to a group of houses, there is a trail which climbs up the hill till it reaches a ruin. From here, follow a trail to your right which takes you directly under the crag.

UPPER SECTOR

IL MASSO

47

06 Messina Rocche del Crasto – Castelmola

62 BABY BUMBLE BEE 7b 25m Technical wall, requires endurance at the end 63 MERCI’ AUGUSTO 6c+ 28m First half on a slab then overhanging with

a continuous level of difficulty on good holds 64 MACONDO 6c 25m Initial slab then overhang requiring endurance 65 OMINICCHI 6c+ 27m Vertical wall with overhang at the end 66 PAZZA FIX 7a+ 27m Central crux on sloping holds 67 PER UN PUGNO DI DOLLARI P1 6b+ 15m Vertical with holes

P2 7a 15m Featured wall 68 VARIANTE DEI TRAVERSI P1 5b 12m Easy traverse

P2 6b+ 15m Exposed diagonal crack and athletic end 69 ALBA CHIARA 7b+ 32m Continuous level of difficulty on an

overhanging wall 70 MISTER PONZARELLI 7c+ 32m Slightly overhanging on small holds 71 SOL LEVANTE P1 6c+ 20m Vertical wall with continuous difficulties

P2 7a 15m Vertical wall with small holds 72 STROPPONI P1 6b+ 27m Vertical wall with lunges

P2 6c+ 15m Vertical wall 73 LADRI D’ARANCE 7b 35m Start on arête and very technical finish on slab 74 LINGUA DI FUOCO 7b 37m Final boulder 75 GANGIA LOVE 7c 37m Slightly overhanging wall, dynamic move

and difficult exit CASTELMOLA SETTORE SUPERIORE

6b+ 7a+ 7a

7a

66

6c+

5b

6c+ 6c

68 6c

7b

7b

7c+

6b+ 7c

6b+ 7b

6c+ 7b+

62

63

64

65 67

69

52

70

71 72

Castelmola, J. Bonaventura, Macondo (Ph. R. Zampino) g

73 74 75

53

22 Siracusa

Siracusa

Antro dell’Eco The Alfano area has been improved thanks to a new sector, confirming the great potential of Canicattini Bagni, which still to this day has only seen a small section of its rock bolted.

The sector is characterized by a great wall which consists of excellent grey rock which climbs up to an overhanging cave. Beautiful and interesting routes on slab run up the vertical walls, requiring technique and which are never simple.

On the upper cave, the grey rock leaves place to tufas and yellow-ochre coloured concretions, the overhangs require athletic climbing and endurance. Shouts of joy for achieving a free ascent or swear words for an unexpected fall echo across the nearby valley, this is where the name of the sector comes from. The sector’s exposure makes it ideal during the summer months, when most of the other sectors are already under the baking sun, but even during the winter, for those looking for the ideal grip conditions or waiting for a timid sun ray during the afternoon. The area is quiet and the view overlooks the surrounding

340m

Antro dell’Eco

W/NW

15’

22 countryside and other canyons with rock faces which are still in waiting to be explored. One of the sectors was bolted

by Massimo Flaccavento and Antonio Tidona.

Access From Canicattini Bagni as for other the sectors of Contrada Alfano and park roughly 50 meters before the farm Case Timpa Rossa, on an opening to the right.

Access: From the car park head towards the farm, just before the houses go left and cross the field towards north, go by a narrow passage in the stone wall and continue walking along a small wall on the right to the end of the field delimited by a fence, climb over the wall on the right and just after head down on the left on rocks and down a short trail, shortly after, climb over the wall on the left and follow tracks through the holly oak woods which shortly leads you to the sector.

muretto low wall

low wall Antro dell’Eco

700 m.

8a 7c 7b 7a 6c 6b 6a <6a

116

1 2 2

4 5 4 6 5

big tree

Rosolini

29 Antro dell’eco, Mirto Monaco, Fantasia al potere 7c+ (Ph. R. Zampino) g

117

43 Ragusa

Ragusa

Umpa Lumpa

43

This sector rises on the walls, hydrographic right hand side, of the Cava della Gisana, just below the Pandora sector. This crag’s sector is slightly overhanging and on little holds, it offers sustained climbing even on the easier grades, often with bouldery moves which require a good technique and finger strength. The place is quiet and very attractive, in this point the valley presents all of its wilderness and beauty.

The sector was bolted by climbers from Modica and Ragusa in memory of their friend Calogero Gambino, every route’s name is a personal reminder from his friends.

190m

Umpa Lumpa

E

10’

Access On the SS 115, along the dual carriageway which crosses the Modica’s shopping area, once you reach a large

roundabout, turn left onto the via SordaSampieri towards Marina di Modica (SP 43).

After roughly 8,5 km turn left onto a dirt road, in front of the road “VANELLA 108”, continue downhill for roughly 400 metres, and park along the road just before an agricultural shed, make sure you don’t block the road. Climb over the wall on the left and follow a trail in a northerly direction, after roughly one hundred metres go round a pile of rocks and head towards the quarry’s edge. Start climbing down on easy rock slabs, fixed rope, to the woods with steep section which leads to the bed of the torrent. Passing under the yellow overhangs, walk up along the torrent for a hundred or so metres then just before a hole on the torrent’s bank, turn left along a trail in amidst the vegetation which shortly leads to the base of the sector. (10 minutes from the car park).

ste e

e rop

pd

Umpa Lumpa

fix ed

ow n

hil

l

creek bed

heap of stones

agricultural shed light pole

?

8a 7b 7a 6c 6b 6a 5c 5a

208

1

1 1

Marina di Modica

Modica

3 3

strada Vanella 108

5 6

4 4

28

1 Lâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ALPINISTA 2 FLY SWEET FLY 3 COME TE NESSUNO MAI 4 NOI TUTTI INSIEME...

5 SPIRALE 6 23 7 FM 8 AKA 9 BALOO 10 AMORE FRATERNO 11 BIG FOOT 12 I MIEI COMPLIMENTI COMPAGNO DI CORDATA 13 A TRATTI 14 CATARTICA 15 SOGNI E SINTOMI 16 NON CI SONO LIMITI 17 1 SU UN MILIONE 18 CRODINO E VODKA SECCA 19 BULMA 20 OUR PROJECT CONTINUES 21 NUOVA VITA 22 MINKIUNARIA TIME 23 UMPA LUMPA 24 CUORE IMPAVIDO 25 PICCIRIDDU SQUETU 26 SEI TUTTI NOI 27 GIOVANE GUERRIERO 28 NIENTE TORNA MAI

5a 10m Vertical slab 6a 10m Vertical wall 6a 10m Vertical slab 5c+ 10m Slab 6a+ 10m Slab 5c+ 10m Vertical wall 5c 10m Vertical wall 5c+ 10m Vertical wall 6a+ 10m Open dihedral 6c+ 10m Vertical wall 6b+ 12m Technical vertical wall 6c 12m Technical and slightly overhanging wall 7b 12m Slightly overhanging wall 7a 12m Slightly overhanging wall 7b+ 14m Boulder move and endurance 8a 14m Boulder and endurance 7b+ 14m Technical climbing on slightly overhanging wall 7a 14m Slightly overhanging wall ? 12m Bouldery 7a+ 12m Slightly overhanging wall 8a+ 12m Bouldery on small holds 7a+ 12m Crack then slightly overhanging wall 6c 12m Slightly overhanging and technical wall 7a 12m Slightly overhanging and technical wall 7b 12m Starting boulder 7a+ 16m Technical wall 7b+ 16m Wall with small pockets 8a+ 16m Bouldery overhanging

UMPA LUMPA

22 20 7a+

7b

8a+ 7b+ 28 27 26

25

7a

6c 7a 7b+ 7b 5c 6c 8a 6c 7a+ 7a 5c+ 5c+ 5c+ 6b+ 6a+ 8a+ ? 7b+ 7a 6a+

24 23 21

191817 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8

7

6 54

6a 5a 6a 32 1

209

Scogliera di Salinella 1 Calamancina 2 Campo Base 3 Grotta del Cavallo 4 Fakiroâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Beach 5 Bunker 6 Portella delle Vacche

Scogli

era di

Saline

lla

1

tuna factory

San Vito Lo Capo

2

7 Camping 8 Sinistra Pietraia 9 Pineta 10 Scomparto Rifiuti 11 Torre Isulidda 12 Salinella Sud

3 4 5 6

Camping La Pineta

7 8 9 10 11

12

A 29 Palermo-Trapani

262

Riserva dello Zingaro

(Ph. G. Gallo) g

A rock band which is more than four kilometres long and on average fifty metres high makes up the cliffs of Salinella. It stretches out along the west of the San Vito Lo Capo peninsula, it looks over the wide and striking Cofano gulf, one of the most beautiful parts of this corner of Sicilyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s coastline, from which it is possible to admire wonderful sunsets. There are almost 650 routes divided into different sectors, and this is the largest sector of all the San Vito Lo Capo area, it also represents the area with the most potential since among the rockâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s folds and this never ending crag it is possible to single out at least a thousand possible itineraries. You can walk for hours captured by the beauty of this immense rock face. Twelve sectors have been bolted and due to the size of the cliff some of these sectors have different accesses. On this rock face, before the

advent of sport climbing, a few routes have been climbed trad, but after the systematic bolting it is most probable that some of these old itineraries have been transformed into bolted sport routes and been given new names.

The majority of the routes bolted on the cliffâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s southern sectors have been put up by Joseph Gstottenmair, Kastern Oelze and by the Titt brothers owners of BOLT-PRODUCT, the gear produced by them was used. The anchor points on some of the routes are very original, special care is needed on how to use them correctly.

The sectors are described from North to South.

263

50 Trapani

Trapani

Calamancina

!

velops above a ledge which is just above the little bay and offers short and athletic routes. Sector 4 instead is ideal for beginners and children since the routes are easy and on good rock. The last sector, the cave of Calamancina is the best sector and the busiest during Christmas and New Year: a concentration of aesthetic routes on extremely compact rock. This is where the 2010 edition of the top marathon San Vito Climbing festival took place.

Among the busiest sectors in San Vito, Calamancina offers all sorts of difficulties and styles of climbing, an easy approach in a beautiful natural contest with the sea close by and beautiful sunsets. The area is divided into 5 sectors, surrounding the bay of Calamancina, on this area of coast it is the only easy access to the sea. The sectors are distant only a few hundred metres from each other. Sector 1 is a bit uncomfortable at the base but stays in the shade for the majority of the day.

Sector 2 consists of a tall rocky spur, the rock through is not very compact and is dangerous in some sections. Sector 3 de-

10m

Calamancina

N/W

5â&#x20AC;&#x2122;

Lighthouse

cemetery

d

oa rt r

via

Cala ma

ncin

a

di

lla

re atta

.M le P

via

San Vito Lo Capo

Calamancina gulf

?

8b 8a 7c 7b 7a 6c 6b 6a 5 4

264

2 1 4

Calamancina

6 7

2

8 8

5

15 13

50

71

Calamancina, Silvio Reffo, Batman, 8b (Ph. R. Zampino) g

Access From the centre of San Vito along viale P.Mattarella heading towards the port, turn left onto via Calamancina, drive along it for 600 metres then turn right onto a dirt road and turn left after a few metres. Follow the cart track which runs along below the cliffs for approximately 1,3 kilometres to the cove. Sector 1 is situated one hundred metres before reaching the cove. Sector 2 is right in front of the slide into the sea. For sectors 3 and 4 walk just beyond the cove. The Grotta sector can be seen beyond a rocky spur.

265

50 Trapani Calamancina

CALAMANCINA 1 1 SALTO NEL BUIO 5a 15m Easy featured wall 2 FELICE 6a 15m 3 LA CADUTA DEGLI DEI 5a 15m Easy featured wall 4 MELODICO 5b 15m 5 OGGI BENTALAN

? 25m Slightly overhanging wall with bouldery sections 6 ATTENZIONE 6b 25m Slab 7 GIORNATA ECOLOGICA 6b 25m Slab 8 TOPI SFRATTATI 6a 25m Slab 9 LIQUIRIZIA E MENTINE 6a+ 23m Featured wall 10 OLTRE MANICA 6a 25m Vertical Wall 11 GRATICULA 6b+/c 25m 12 SLAY BACK 6a 25m Vertical Wall 13 SUPER SANTOS 7c 25m Fingery boulder move 14 STOLEN GLORY 6a 20m Compact wall with good holds. Great route 15 BEAN ME UP SCOTTIE 6c+ 18m Technical climbing on excellent rock,

beautiful route 16 TU SEI BEA 5c+ 25m Long and featured wall

CALAMANCINA 1

6b ?

5a 6a

266

6a+

6 5

6c+

6a

6a 6b+

6b

5a 5b

1 2 34

6a

7c

15 14

6a

7 8 9

10

11

5c+

12 13

16

CALAMANCINA 2 7a

4

6a+

6a+ 21

6a

5a

20 17

18

19

CALAMANCINA 2 17 NO POSTCARD HOME P1

P2 18 BAD SEIS P1

P2 19 ROAD TO NOWHERE 20 JAMMIN’ IN THE NAME OF THE LORD 21 FEARLESS BOOGIE

5a 4 6a 7a 6a 6a+ 6a+

CALAMANCINA 3 22 SILLY GAMES (project) 23 RITTER SPORT 24 FORGEFIX 25 ALFA ROMEO 26 I 30 SECONDI DI VERONICA 27 APRIL SKIES 28 WALK THE DINOSAUR 29 JOHNNIE WALKER 30 THE RIDDLE 31 JAM OR JUMP 32 IF COWS HAD WINGS 33 TU MIO 34 STRANI SONO…SENZA PANCIA 35 DONATO A GIANNI

8a 12m 6a+ 12m 6b 10m 7b 15m 7b 15m 5c+ 10m 5a 10m 7a+ 15m 7a 14m 7c 10m 4b 10m 5b 18m 5b+ 18m 5a 18m

25m 10m 20m 20m 25m 30m 30m

Featured wall Not recommended Featured wall Slightly overhanging wall Dangerous: bolts removed Featured and vertical wall Featured and vertical wall

Precision climbing on vertical wall Vertical wall Vertical wall, more difficult than it seems Nice and varied, on tufas and concretions Continuous difficulties with dynos Easy climbing on compact rock Easy climbing on compact rock Technical vertical wall Crux is difficult to read Short and intense overhang Easy climbing on compact rock Easy climbing on compact rock Easy climbing on compact rock Leaning start then featured wall 267

50 Trapani

CALAMANCINA 3

Calamancina

7a+ 7b+

7a+

7c+/8a 22

6a+

5c+

6b+

23 24

7a+

5a

7a 33-35

29 30 31 27 28

4b 12m 4b 12m 4a 12m 4c 12m 5b 12m 5b 12m 5a 12m 6a+ 20m

Easy climbing on compact rock Easy climbing on compact rock Easy climbing on compact rock Easy climbing on compact rock Easy climbing on compact rock Easy climbing on compact rock Easy climbing on compact rock

CALAMANCINA 4

5b

4a 4c

4b

5a 5b

4b

268

37

32

26

25

CALAMANCINA 4 36 MARMOT 37 PERFORMING SEALS 38 RABBIT 39 MY LITTLE PONY 40 LIONS, TIGERS AND BEARS 41 SHEEP 42 BEAUTIFUL HAMSTER 43 NATHALIE

36

4b

38

39 40 41

42

Calamancina, Chiara Cianciolo, CHR.IS.TO. 7c+ (Ph. R. Zampino) g

269

50 Trapani Calamancina 270

44 PATRIK 6b+ 20m 45 SERGIO 6c 20m First metres are not great, then crux on slopers 46 ALICIA 6a+ 20m GROTTA CALAMANCINA 47 LADRO DI PANDA 6b+ 25m Sharp rock, exit on small pockets, 48 CALDO UMIDO 6b 25m Sharp rock, good for warming up on 49 ACQUA PANNA 7c 25m Technical climbing, difficult for short

people 50 40 OUT 80 IN 7c+ 25m Technical corner and final bulge 51 VARIANTE ROBIN 8a+ 15m Overhanging with dyno 52 BATMAN 8b 15m Crux on exit on tiny crimps 53 FRIDA IN THE WATER 7c+ 25m Overhanging start with reachy move, then

traverse in corner below roof 54 CANNA BIOLOGICA 6a+ 22m Unbelievable it is only 6a+ 55 LA NNICCHIA 6a+ 20m Fun and unusual 56 CHR.IS.TO 7c+ 25m Technical traverse then athletic climbing on fantastic rock 57 MAL DI SCHIENA 7b/+ 25m It follows a series of pockets, beautiful 58 MAL DI SCHIENA NATURAL 7c/+ 25m Climbs the crack on the right without

using the chipped holds. Strong fingers

and good footwork required.

59 BANANA BIOLOGICA 7a 25m Athletic climbing with obligatory move

and technical exit, great 60 RED NECKS 6b+ 25m Climbing on pockets and cracks 61 COAST TO COAST 7a+ 25m Crux up high on crimps 62 FIGLIA DI NESSUNO 7b 25m Compact and slightly overhanging wall 63 TOYO 17 6c 25m Climb on corner with final overhang,

great route 64 JUST A MOMENT 8a+ 25m Vertical wall requiring precision. Final overhang 65 JONAS WINTER 8a+ 25m Compact wall with cracks 66 SEA SIMPHONY 8a/+ 26m Morphological on exit move, but great route 67 VAMA ? 25m 68 MAVA 8a+/b 25m Starting slab on small holds placed far

away, violent traverse near the end of tufa

on crimps 69 I MIEI PRIMI 40 ANNI 7b+ 25m Slightly overhanging wall with

pockets, technical and diagonal

271

43-46

6a+ 6c

6b+

6a

47 48 49

6b+ 6b

7c

50

7c+

50

7c+ 52

7c/+ 7b+

57

7c+

54 55 53 56

6a+ 6a+

52 8a+ 8b

51

7a

6b+

7c/+ 55 56 57 58 59 60

6a+

7c+

7b+

63

6c

?

64 65 66

8a/+

8a+ 67

GROTTA CALAMANCINA

61 62

7a+ 7b

8a+

68

8a+/8b

69

7b+

71 Palermo

Palermo

Valdesi This long rocky band which is part of M.Pellegrino’s west face has been and still is to this day one of Palermo’s most important sectors. The easy access, the large amount of routes, the good quality rock, the presence of many multi-pitch routes, the nearby beach of Mondello and the summer, morning shade…make Valdesi one of the busiest sectors visited

by Palermo climbers. Due to the large amount of easy routes, the crag is often used by local climbing schools and their climbing courses.

Valdesi counts more than 100 single pitch routes, as well as multi-pitch routes which reach the top of the wall, which is up to 90 metres high. The rock, as the rest of M.Pellegrino is exceptional, from grey on the slabs to red and yellow on the overhanging walls. With many cracks, as well as pockets and rock-tunnels.

Recently, a few tireless climbers have started rebolting the area using stainless

30m

SW

Monte Pellegrino - Valdesi

71

5’

steel bolts on the single pitch routes as well as on some of the beautiful routes which reach the top and which have been abandoned for too long. Unlike Roccia dello Schiavo, the multi-pitch routes here (both trad and bolted routes) have been spared the complicated intertwining of routes. A few of them, in spite of only being 3 pitches long, conserve an “adventurous” appearance therefore we have chosen to describe them in minute detail to avoid terrible surprises. For those bolted in a sport climbing style and easy to find, we have simply indicated the grade of each single pitch. From the top, as well as abseiling down from some of the equipped abseil anchors, it is also possible to walk down along the evident gully situated between the west face and the north face. To easily identify each route we have chosen to divide the crag into various sectors.

Santuario Santa Rosalia Valdesi

ENEL cabin

Viale Regina Margherita

?

7c 7a 6c 6b 6a 5c 5b 5a <5

372

1 2

Mondello 8 9

5

7 7

19 11

26

98

Livia Guarino, Cinematografo azzurro, 6c (Ph. M. Spataro) g

Palermo Parco della Favorita

Access From the centre of Palermo cross the Parco della Favorita towards Mondello. Continue downhill along viale Regina Margherita and at the junction with the traffic lights turn right along the road (via Monte Ercta) which climbs up to the right near the evident ENEL electricity box, for the Pablo sector continue a few hundred metres beyond the bend for the other sectors.

Back-up points In nearby Mondello or in the little town of Partanna you will find everything you need both for eating and sleeping.

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71 Palermo Monte Pellegrino - Valdesi

VALDESI SECTOR RETI

5a 5a

4c 5a

4a+

4a 4a

5c+ 5a 5a+

1 2 3

4

5

6 7

5c

6b+

5b+

8 910 11

12

13

SECTOR RETI Perfect for beginners offers routes up to the grade of 5c 1 EN TEO AGAFA L’AVIO 4c 17m 2 CAVALL FORT 5a 17m 3 JEEP I FIDEL 5a 17m 4 MICKEY MOUSE 4a+ 18m 5 DRAGON BALL 4a 18m 6 TOBY 4a 17m First pitch of a multi-pitch route 7 SCUOLA ROCCIA 5a 20m Featured wall 7a RITORNO AL FUTURO 5b 20m Trad Slab, then featured wall 8 TRAGEDIA GRECA 5a+ 20m Featured wall 9 SIMONA 5a 20m First pitch of multi pitch route 10 SCARABEO 5c+ 20m Short wall, bulge with crack, slab 11 ESTEROFILIA 5b+ 20m Featured wall 12 ZITTO E MOSCA 5c 20m Athletic little overhang at start then slab 13 AVEC LES TEMPS 6b+ 15m Crux at start then slab SECTOR DIEDRO BIANCO 14 LE UOVA SODE 15 LE UOVA 16 SCALPELLINI 17 COLELLA 18 FANTOZZI 18a ABBIAMO FATTO 13 19 VIA DEL TRENTINO 20 DIEDRO BIANCO + MANCANZA (Trad) 21 PALERMO ROCCIA 86 22 CATTIVO PRESAGIO 23 STAIRWAY TO HEAVEN 374

V+ 70m Trad. P1 35m IV+, P2 35m V+ V+ 80m Trad. P1 40m IV, P2 40mV 6a+ 70m See description at end of chapter 5a 80m See description at end of chapter 5b 25m Wall below the cave of Colella 6a 15m Wall below the cave of Colella 6a 25m Slab and small roof, anchor on webbing 6a+ 80m See description at end of chapter 6c 25m Technical slab VI 85m P1 40m VI, P2 30m V+, P3 15m IV+ 6a+ 85m See description at end of chapter

5b

VALDESI SECTOR DIEDRO BIANCO

6a 5a

6a

V+

6a+ 24

4c

5c+

21

6a 6c 6a+

6a 6a

5b

14

15 1617 18

19 20

22

23

25

26

27

28

24 VARIANTE DEL CIPOLLINO 6a 40m Starts on the left of abseil point 1 of Stairway

to Heaven or else on the right of abseil point

2 of Diedro Bianco climbing up an evident

carved out section on roof.

Splendid climbing on slab.

25 FACONDIA VI+ 80m See description at end of chapter 26 AFAFA VI 80m Trad. 60m abseil on metal cable.

P1 20m IV, P2 20m VI, P3 15m V+, P4 25m V+

27 LOVIGGI V+ 33m Trad. Featured small pillar, slab

small overhang. Abseil on metal cable 28 STRETCHING VI 85m Trad. See description at end of chapter CENTRAL SECTOR 29 APE MAIA 6a+ 25m

30 MIELE 6a+ 25m 31 LEGA LOMBARDA 5c 25m 32 VISO PALLIDO 6a+ 25m 33 BUFFALO BILL 6a+ 25m 34 JO-JO 6a+ 25m 35 VARIANTE HI HI 6a 10m

Single pitch of a multi-pitch route.

See description at end of chapter Wall with roof Featured wall Wall with roof Wall with roof Small pockets and roof Wall with pockets. Start on the right of Jo-Jo 375

78 Palermo

Palermo

Bauso Rosso This beautiful crag, situated on the southern side of Monte Gallo consists of an overhanging band of rock a few hundred metres long and fifty metres high.

The rock is made of excellent orange coloured limestone covered in concretions and pockets. The overhanging climbing requires good endurance, but don’t be fooled by appearances: the majority of the routes are characterised by single, difficult moves which alternate easier sections on tufas. Considered by many the best Sicilian crag, Bauso Rosso definitely deserves a visit. The first routes were bolted during the nineties, by the CMAS guys (Mediterranean Sports climbing centre), Antonio Nastri, Ignazio Mannarano and Fabio Valentino, who were among the first to bolt routes from 7a to 8a in Sicily. Those were the years of change in the Sicilian world of rock climbing and the discovery of this splendid crag marked the birth of sports climbing in Palermo. During the successive years many new routes were added, many bolted by Rosario Cammara, others by local and foreign climbers.

Bauso Rosso is divided into four sectors, the first three inspired by Dante Alighieri’s Divina Commedia therefore many names recall the characters of the Dan-

100m

Monte Gallo - Bauso Rosso

S

20’

?

8b 8a 7c 7b 7a 6c 6b 6a

408

78

1

10 5

6 6

11 13

22 21

95

Bauso Rosso g

tesque poem. To this day there are almost one hundred single pitches, a few of them have been recently bolted and are still to be freed.

The area is quiet and isolated, in spite of the proximity of an illegal allotment which for the most part is uninhabited, one of Palermo’s biggest environmental and urban mess also known as the “the hill of disgrace”. Apart from this unpleasant sight, there is a beautiful view overlooking the city and the mountains surrounding the Conca d’Oro. In spite of the area’s beauty and the quality of the routes, the crag is not busy since out of the way for foreign climbers who usually stay at San Vito Lo Capo. It could therefore represent an excellent alternative to escape from the crowded crags of San Vito during Christmas and New Year, and to visit the magnificent city of Palermo. Due to its southern exposure, the best conditions for climbing are during winter. During the hotter months it is best to choose shaded crags.

Access From Palermo head towards Mondello crossing the Parco della Favorita and go along viale Regina Margherita. Once you reach the beach of Mondello conti-

nue along the seafront towards the city centre till you reach a junction with merry-go-rounds: turn left here as if heading back to Palermo and after 100 metres turn right and take via Tolomea, a windy uphill road. Once the uphill section has ended turn left following via Tolomea for roughly 500 metres, and before the Poggio Mondello residence take an uphill road delimited by a gate. Go past the bend and head up till you reach an opening on the left in front of an en-

ponte

bridge

trance path which leads to a private house. Park and continue on foot along a road which starts off asphalt and then becomes dirt. Just before the little bridge near a forestry gate walk down into the little valley and head up following the fence along an easy path which leads towards the rock face (20 minutes on foot).

cancello forest forestale gate

Bauso Inferno Purgatorio Paradiso Artica

gate

Via

crossroad with carousels

Tolo m

ea

Lido Charleston

llo nde

Mo

409

410

Chiara Cianciolo, Cacciaguida 7b+ (Ph. R. McCaffery)

411

DWS

DWS in Sicily

by Roberto Zampino

Sicily has more than one thousand kilometres of coast, and includes some of the Mediterranean’s most beautiful beaches, as well as long rocky sections which are ideal for Deep Water Soloing. DWS means climbing on rocks which overhang the sea. In spite of Sicily’s great potential and its favourable climate which allows this activity to be carried out over six months of the year, there aren’t many spots which have been explored around the island. Currently the most frequented areas where the majority of routes have been found are these three: Syracuse, Giardini Naxos and San Vito Lo Capo. But there are areas near Palermo and Cefalù which have great potential.

It has only been a few years since this climbing speciality has been discovered. There are groups of Sicilian climbers who regularly climb DWS (acronym for Deep Water Soloing).

Each summer, they organize themselves with rubber dinghies and boats to explore the Sicilian coasts looking for the best lines.

Before DWS developed as a climbing speciality it was simply a way of reconciling this activity with the sea during the hot summer season.

Inadvertently in various parts of Sicily DWS was being practised on the cliffs without knowing that an actual, proper discipline was being developed.

Starting from the nineties in the area of Palermo, Antonio Nastri, already a precursor of bouldering, was developing the first lines on the cliffs of Monte Gallo. A few years later in Syracuse the guys of the Gruppo Roccia, Riccardo Lentini and Roberto Galiffi, explored the marine caves situated near the city. Marco Nescatelli from Rome, gave a great impulse, setting some of the most difficult lines on the high cliffs of the Syracuse area and in the reserve of Plemmirio, showing our beautiful coasts to many of his pupils. At Taormina a group of English climbers led by Neil Gresham 524

climbed the overhanging walls of Mazzarò.

Throughout the years the numbers of those who practise DWS has increased, in Taormina and Syracuse there are numerous active groups. Johnny Bonaventura is the reference point at Taormina and its surroundings.

Syracuse instead was brought to the forefront to the climbing public thanks to the spectacular videos made by epic-tv, it is the area with the most spots and major number of participants. The central nucleus of the Syracuse DWS team is made up of Simon Piera, Roberto Zampino and Cristian Leube.

Contact Pio tel (+39) 3488049941 for the dws group.

The following is a list of the most interesting areas: Siracusa (Plemmirio and Scogliera Nord) Plemmirio, with the sectors Geronimo and Arco. A beautiful cliff which is roughly twenty kilometres to the south of Syracuse, beyond Capo Murro di Porco.

Access from Via degli Zaffiri, park (gps 37.003037, 15.323128) beside no. 75. Two sectors, Geronimo and Arco.

Sector Geronimo is near the natural little gulf, and for sector Arco continue on the right going along the illegal wall till you reach an arch over the sea. Excellent and compact rock which offers a variety of fun and athletic climbing. The natural beauty of the gulf, crystal clear water and the ease in reaching the spot make it a perfect place. The maximum height of the routes is 9 metres.

Sector Geronimo It takes its name from the platform created for diving. It is possible to traverse at all heights.

The routes all start from the base of the bay or from a little terrace which can be reached by

Cristian Leube, Arco, Siracusa (Ph. Zampino) g

525

DWS

swimming or traversing.

Three main traverses go from 6a to 7c with many variants and there are 7 lines which set off from the water or from the traverses and go from 5c to 7b. No danger of protruding rocks.

Sector Arco On the right of the gulf a stunning inlet acts as a natural setting for some of the area’s most beautiful lines. Traverse to the base of the arch and that is where the routes start.

On the right of the arch there are two variants of 7c+ on the left 2 slabs of 5c and 7a.

Scogliera nord Siracusa (Grotta Tunisi, Scogghiu ru frati, Arco and Cannone) The north of the city of Syracuse stretches out over a plateau which falls into the sea with a long vertical cliff where it is possible to find some beautiful and very interesting caves. On this cliff there are many possibilities for dws, the main four spots are listed here, from south to north.

Grotta Tunisi 37.081617, 15.301032 Viale Tunisi is one of the most beautiful caves.

Even tourists visit it by boat for its natural beauty, climbers will find compact rock and the thrill of its height, a combination which makes this spot unmissable.

The routes start off from the water (or from the boat) and from the convenient terrace which can be reached by swimming. The main terrace is an ideal platform to relax, leave your gear, back packs and non climbers.

526

The tufas allow for athletic variants and slightly overhanging walls. 10 routes which go from 6a to 7c+.

Access: Grotta dal Viale Tunisi, Siracusa, take via Corsica, the traverse of Bar Tunisi (excellent for breakfast) and continue down to the sea. Park the car and cross the cycling path. The cave is on the right at 200 metres. To go down to the base you will need to descend to the left of the cave and roughly 50 metres, an easy and leaning wall which is not protected and potentially lethal. The other alternatives are by boat, swimming, descending to the right of the cave or by diving in.

In this spot there are two of the most beautiful routes in the Syracuse area. A 7b+ and 7c+/8a which can be seen on Neil Gresham’s movie and on Epic TV. He talks about the thrill of being completely exposed on a 20 m roof.

The 7c+ which climbs up on the roof (as a reference point look for a large hole as you exit, and two bolts) was the main feature of the movie and was never repeated after breaking a knob on the roof. It is currently N.L. The route’s average height is of 17 metres.

Scoglio “Ru Frati” 37.085586, 15.301703 Typical cliffs found in this area of the city, I ru frati (the two brothers) known to the locals of Syracuse as an ideal place to dive off. Fun, athletic and easy but consisting of quite loose rock. The northern arête of the largest boulder has a great route of 6b which is excellent to warm up your fingers on and as an introduction to diving, almost a must after climbing.

4 routes from 6a to 6b.

They can be reached by boat, or by swimming from the solarium of Via Sicilia.

Arco 37.109750, 15.283713 A typical arch, exposed and appealing, where it is also possible to tackle a long and vertiginous pendulum.

Access: from the end of Viale Santa Panagia up to the road for the Tonnara, then head towards the block of small houses called “Il Gabbiano”. Park 300 metres before these houses. 37.102535, 15.279911 .

Turn left onto the dirt road which goes over the bridge on the cycling path which leads to the sea. A hundred or so metres before reaching the coast, head southwards, and after a few hundred metres find the highest part of the cave. Watch out and check the protruding rocks. A few of the most beautiful lines unfortunately cannot be climbed due to the shallow sea bottom.

2 lines of 7a and 7b run up the edge of the cave.

2 lines of 6c and 7b on one of the arch’s feet.

Easy traverses to warm up on.

Cannone 37.109600, 15.280838 Great cave situated inside a little gulf, just beyond a platform which during the Second World War was an artillery base, hence its name.

The access is the same as for the arch (Arco), the dirt road which crosses the bridge over the cycling path leading directly to the platform of the Cannon, the cave is just beyond to the north.

A short and easy wall north of the cave, allows a warm up traverse and a few simple routes. Two great overhanging lines run up the vault of the cave.

7 routes from 5b to 7c.

Excellent rock, athletic and compact.

Taormina (Baia di Mazzarò, Grotta Azzurra, Il Villaggio and Isola bella) In Taormina’s picturesque seaside resort a few interesting dws spots have been found. On the cliff between the beaches of Spisone and Mazzarò you will find a few lines on the left of the sector “Mazarò” which are bolted and with a cable to abseil down; a couple of routes in this sector can be also climbed without the use of a

rope. Other spots are the Grotta Azzurra and the walls on Isola Bella.

The easiest access is from the sea, by boat, or by renting a paddle boat, in the nearby Lido of Mazzarò. Point of reference for the area’s dws is Jonathan Bonaventura (+39) 377 1311453 Baia di Mazzarò 8 routes from 5c+ al 6c Grotta Azzurra 15 routes from 6b al 8A? Il Villaggio 10 routes from 6a+ al 8A/+ offering an amazing quality of rock and climbing on some lines! One above all: La leggenda di Barba Nera 7B??

There are other little sectors or walls which have been used for DWS like La Grotta dell’amore, the inside section of the southern bay of Isola Bella where a strong overhang which is 1 metre from the water forces even beginners to be brave! There are walls which have been climbed even around the island, easy lines which are not higher than 6/8 metres.

San Vito Lo Capo (Cala Firriato) San Vito Lo Capo is without a doubt the most popular climbing area in Sicily with over one thousand pitches and a dozen multi-pitch routes which are up to 400 metres long. It also offers interesting dws spots which have been made popular thanks to the contests organized as part of the San Vito Climbing Festival. The cliffs are not excessively high and the deep water makes this area attractive even to beginners. In the little inlet of Cala Firriato there are a dozen routes which go from 6a to 7b as well as two long traverses.

On a red vertical wall, situated a hundred or so metres further west, there are a couple of more difficult routes climbed for the first time by the very strong climber Mauro Calibani, in this area watch out for sticking out cliffs.

From San Vito Lo Capo follow the road towards Riserva dell Zingaro, after five kilometres turn left along a steep downhill dirt road which leads to Cala Firriato.

Reference point for dws at San Vito Lo Capo.

YMCA Daniele Arena (+39) 333 7075707

fDaniel Jung, Cannone, Siracusa (Ph. R. Zampino)

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