Coastline - Guide to the Ligurian east coast in kayak from Genoa to Moneglia

Coastline 1

Guide to the Ligurian east coast in kayak from Genoa to Moneglia

Tour of the promontory of Portofino

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Editions CoastalTouring 1

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Coastline Paddling along the coast

1. Guide to the Ligurian east coast Genoa to Moneglia

Š 2019

Editions CoastalTouring 1

Nature, history and art along the coast Along the route on the east coast of Genoa there are numerous sites of naturalistic, historical or artistic interest, some of which can be appreciated only from the the sea. Above: the Genovese fortress of Punta Pagana near Santa Margherita.

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The Ligurian east coast From Genoa to Moneglia

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he east coast of Genoa is characterized by variety and, at the same time, there are unique places of interest. This territory, although densely urbanized in many areas, still preserves areas of great naturalistic value in protected areas such as the Portofino Park, the bordering Protected Marina Area and the Sites of Community Interest (SICs). Equally valuable are the historical and architectural features along this coastal strip, both within the inhabited areas as well as in the isolated, striking natural settings.

Towers, castles, palaces, ancient fishing villages, all one after the other starting from the Genoese metropolitan area all along the coast towards the crowded centers of the Riviera that have become famous especially for tourist attractions.

The particular climatic conditions in fact have, since the nineteenth century, helped to shape this coast into a holiday destination, once exclusive, which is now very popular. The perspective from the sea, leading an excursion on easy rowing boats, allows us to appreciate this context in a unique, but also fascinatingly ancient way. The uniqueness certainly lies in the possibility to reach cliffs and bays otherwise inaccessible by foot and to enjoy the spectacular views of the coastline. Even now, access to ports and landings is repeated in the same way in which for centuries they were approached by cabotage sailors and local fishermen, that is to say by the stroke of an oar or paddle â–

Rock garden The jagged coast on the way to Chiavari with the offshoots of the Apennines that creep along the sea.

The Levante Genovese is characterized by large areas of cliffs interspersed with beaches, often short and pebbly, at the mouth of streams.

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The arch of the Riviera From the outskirts of Genoa to Moneglia, a strip of about 50 km, interrupted by the great promontory of Portofino.

The east coast The Levante Genoese The Golfo Paradiso The Portofino promontory The Western Tigullio The Eastern Tigullio

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5 1 Levante genoese 2 Golfo Paradiso 3 Promontorio Portofino 4 Tigullio occidentale 5 Tigullio orientale Google Earth

Waves of rock On the left, a spectacular twisted rock seems to break against the sea at Moneglia.

The coast offers intact natural environments.

Waterways On the right, in the foreground, the “Roman� bridge of Bogliasco and behind the arch of the railway viaduct.

Before the train, the road along the coast was very limited by the contour of the territory: it was therefore easier to move goods and people by sea.

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The watch tower in Nervi This sixteenth-century tower of Groppallo, located upon the cliffs along the footpath called Anita Garibaldi.

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The Genoese Levante From Boccadasse to Capolungo

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of easy landing places. Paddling is therefore very pleasant along the seven kilometers of coastline and the opportunities for stops and breaks are many.

Starting from the characteristic small port of Boccadasse, once a landing place for fishermen, today is more and more a destination for tourists and Genoese to go to the local pubs and restaurants which overlook the beach. It immediately runs along into Cape Santa Chiara, which is dominated by the medieval TĂźrckle castle. It is, in fact, a neo-gothic style villa built by the famous liberty ar-

Levante Genovese (East coast), despite the chaotic urban development of the 60s, still retains significant environmental and architectural features that can be uniquely appreciated from a different perspective, the sea. The path along the coast, from the inlet of the ancient fishing village of Boccadasse to Nervi, is full of evocative natural contexts, buildings of architectural value and relevant historical sites.

The eastern coastal side of the city also allows you to have practical solutions for public transport, services and a number

Risorgimento cliffs Giuseppe Garibaldi, the national hero of Italian reunification and independence (Risorgimento), sailed from the rock of Quarto for his adventure in southern Italy in 1860. On the right is the monument to honor Giuseppe Garibaldi by the sculptor Eugenio Baroni in the early years from the 1900s that can be seen from the sea. The artist was inspired by the initial verses of the Hymn of Garybaldi written by the poet Luigi Mercantini: “The graves are discovered, the dead have raised, our martyrs have all resurrected�. The monument was restored in 2010 for the 150th anniversary of the unification of Italy.

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the 6th of May 1860. The great bronze monument dedicated to Garibaldi, by the sculptor Eugenio Baroni and inaugurated in 1915 by none other than Gabriele D’Annunzio, a statue of whom is up just a little further, dominating a pedestrian square that overlooks the sea.

Thereon you will find a series of small bays protected by reefs that serve as easy landing places for boats: the port of Quarto, as well as that of Quinto (terms reminiscent of distance in Roman miles from the center of Genoa) and finally the characteristic small port of Nervi.

From the small port, overshadowed by a small castle, starts the famous “Anita Garibaldi” promenade that runs along the rugged cliff up to the small seafaring village of Capolungo, the last small village of the City of Genoa. This stretch of coast is among the most famous of the Ligurian coast and the view from the sea

chitect Gino Coppedè. Just after the cliffs of the ridge you can find a wide beach, which is part of the village of Vernazzola, once also a fishing port.

As you continue following the coast, you can find the village of Sturla, which takes its name from the stream that flows through it and into the sea. Beyond the walls of the Aurelia state road is the pediatric hospital “Giannina Gaslini”, works of Rationalist architecture of the first half of the 20th century. Today, the institute is an international center of excellence.

The coast is dotted with old bathing establishments spaced with stretches of bare cliffs. An obelisk of white marble crowned with a star stands out on a spike of sandstone: it marks the famous rock of Quarto from which about one thousand Garibaldi volunteers departed for Sicily on the night between the 5th and

Liberty tradition Neo-Gothic style villas dominate the rise of Santa Chiara, which juts out into the sea.

The wealthiest Genovese families had holiday residences outside the center along the coast. On the left, the Türckle castle built in 1903 by the famous architect Gino Coppedè, an acclaimed promoter of the Liberty style.

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enhances its beauty.

Beyond the cliff and the supporting walls of the promenade and the railway above you can see the foliage of the trees in Nervi Parks, ancient gardens of aristocratic villas now belonging to the municipality, and the barren peak of Mount Fasce which, with its 834 meters, is the highest elevation in the city.

Along this stretch stands a beautiful sixteenth-century tower, called Groppallo tower, the name was given to it by the family who bought it in the midnineteenth century, but also known as “hay tower” because of the wet grass that was burned to alert the arrival of Saracen pirates.

The villas behind the parks are now municipal property and are not only examples of luxurious mansions, but also the headquarters of important museums and collections: the Gallery of Modern Art (GAM), the Frugone Museum, the Luxoro museum as well as the Wolfsonian collection. Therefore, the nautical trip could also have an interesting cultural detour.

As for a stopover and refreshments, the

Boccadasse and the obelisk Above: S. Antonio’s church in Boccadasse Below: the obelisk in memory of Garibaldi’s departure in 1860

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Thousands on the metal plate

Riviera offers abundant possibilities: bars, trattorias, restaurants and the famous, and numerous, focaccerie where the true Genoese focaccia is cooked continuously.

The east side of Genoa revels in a particular microclimate since the surrounding mountains protect the coast. In the nineteenth century this climatic feature was particularly appreciated by the affluent international nobility that made Nervi a first rate tourist destination, as evidenced by the large hotels, now mostly homes, and the Art Nouveau villas that surround the parks. The presence of numerous exotic essences in the gardens is further proof of these particular environmental conditions. This is why paddling can easily be planned throughout the year. Taking advantage of a sunny winter day can in fact be particularly pleasant as you can easily arrive to the deserted rocky coves, numerous along the coast, and have no fear of traffic on the coast.

Access to the sea is generally quite easy in the marinas along the way. On this

The rock of the Thousand and a view from the monument to Garibaldi where a relief steel plate, installed on the occasion of the 150th anniversary of the unification of Italy, shows the names of Garibaldi’s volunteers. The entire coast is full of historical monuments.

stretch of coast you can also see the remains of steps or small piers, now in disuse: they are the old landings of commercial vessels that unloaded food, especially flour for the numerous pasta factories once present in the area. Today, maritime traffic takes place away from the beaches, beyond the 300-meter limit or in marked areas, while mooring is forbidden. Some public beaches are also equipped with free showers and rest rooms.

Today, maritime traffic takes place away from the beaches, beyond the 300 meter limit or in the marked corridors, while mooring is prohibited. As mentioned, 10

the coast is easily accessible by private or public means. However, taking a car can become difficult in the summer when the Genoese migrate to the nearest beaches closest to the city center.

Public transport is particularly functional with bus lines that follow the coastal road and the railway that connects all the small towns along the seaside. For those coming by train, Nervi station, which is located directly on the cliff and on the promenade “Anita Garibaldi”, is not only convenient, but has a truly spectacular view. As well as the whole trail up to Capolungo, where you can admire the entire gulf, “Golfo Paradiso”, that extends to the east with the Portofino promontory, which encloses it, in the background.

Despite being adjacent to the city, this coast is particularly rich from a naturalistic point of view. In fact, it is not rare to see the gray heron, cormorants or gulls. The seabed is just as interesting as it is brimming with patterns of Posidonia Oceanic beds and coral formations. For this reason the area has been declared a Site of Community Importance (SCI) and particularly protected in terms of the preservation of marine biodiversity.

Mountains near the sea Above: the small castle that protects the entrance to the small port in Nervi.

Below: the jagged coast between Quinto and Nervi dominated by the first cliffs of the Ligurian Appenino. Ancient fishermen’s dwellings follow modern buildings with an incongruous and anonymous architecture. Beside Monte Moro, which dominates Quinto, you can see the remains of the coastal artillery bunkers dating back to the second world war.

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Crossing this stretch of sea, it will certainly be easy to be alongside or surpass the boats of rowers and rowing companies. Along the coast there are numerous sports centers and nautical bases for hobbyist associations.

Sailing with small boats, canoeing, sea or river kayaking and SUP are practiced all year round along with fishing. In particular, the activity of fishing on wooden goiters is still alive, both day and night with dim lighting. In the small port of Nervi, old fishermen often meet, commenting on the last trip at sea in “zenéize” dialect.

It is interesting to know that the villages along the way were once separate towns from the city of Genoa: the sense of belonging to the local community, which stands out from the big city, is still a deep-rooted feeling. In fact, the inhabitants of the suburbs declare to be proudly “of Quinto” or “of Nervi” even before considering themselves as Genovese ■

Villas, bathing establishments Above: an ancient bathing establishment overlooking the cliffs in Nervi.

Below: the port of Capolungo, dominated by the sumptuous Villa Necchi by the architect Tommaso Buzzi built in the early 1950s.

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Cliff walk The marquis Gaetano Groppallo, owner of the tower, was the creator of the first path of the promenade that in the post-war period was named after Giuseppe Garibaldi’s wife, Anita. The villa is now part of Genoa’s Museum circuit.

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Useful info The east coast of Genoa is easily reachable by car (motorway A12 exit Genova Nervi), by train (Sturla, Quarto, Quinto and Nervi stations), by local bus (line 15 or 17 from the center of Genoa), by boat (seasonal line from the port of Genoa to Nervi). Excellent access points to the sea and stop at the small harbors of Boccadasse, Vernazzo, Quarto, Quinto, Nervi and Capolungo. Free parking along the waterfront or paid parking at Nervi station.

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1 Boccadasse 2 Monument to the Thousand 3 Quinto - small port 4 Nervi - small port 5 Groppallo tower 6 Capolungo Google Earth

Antola rock This sedimentary rock base that characterizes the cliffs in front of Nervi is called “limestone of Monte Antola�, the main peak of the Apennine mountain group behind Genoa. This stratified rock gives rise to suggestive constructions which have been eroded by the sea.

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Paradise is right next door

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Capo Santa Chiara (below) closes the western arch that extends to the promontory of Portofino. The eastern arch of this coast is called Golfo Paradiso.

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Seaside villages and spectacular cliffs The ancient medieval core of Camogli on the islet is now connected to the shore where the rest of the maritime village extends. The village is overshadowed by the 12th-century castle of the Dragonara and the coeval basilica of Santa Maria Assunta, reworked and enlarged several times over the centuries. Today the church exhibits a broad neoclassical facade.

On the left is the rock of the “lion� near Capolungo. The whole coast is characterized by jagged cliffs. Although it is densely inhabited, the coast still has some natural features.

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The “Paradiso” gulf From Bogliasco to Camogli

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beauty of the cliffs as well as for the historical and architectural richness of the ancient inhabited areas that overlook it.

The coast, which extends for a dozen kilometers, is in fact characterized by jagged sandstone cliffs interrupted by small valleys from which small creeks flow into the sea. The mountain descends gently towards the coast where Camogli village is characterized by wide terraces with numerous inhabitants on the coast in scattered homes. The eastern side of the gulf, from Camogli to Punta Chiappa, is instead dominated by the Monte di Portofino and is mostly characterized by a high overhanging cliff. This stretch has no shelters on the sea except for the fisherman’s boarding ladder of Punta

The east coast of Genoa, which ends with being enclosed by the promontory of Portofino, is not inappropriately called “Golfo Paradiso” (Heaven). The coastal areas of the municipalities of Bogliasco, Pieve Ligure, Sori, Recco and Camogli are part of this territory.

All these villages overlook a small port directly on the sea, except for Pieve, which sits on the slopes of Mount Santa Croce, part of the mountain ridge that encircles the gulf to the north. Precisely this natural protection makes the stretch of coast a real “paradise” due to the mild climate and the exuberance of the vegetation.

The coastal navigation is therefore easy, due to the succession of marinas and easy landings, spectacular both for the

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Chiappa and the tiny port of Portopidocchio, just before the tip of the promontory.

Bogliasco, the first town and small port you meet by paddling from the west, offers a wide beach partly protected by a well-equipped pier. The river (of the same name as the town) flows through it and is crossed by a medieval bridge just a few meters from the water’s edge. The houses that lean on the two sides of the stream have historical sailors’ homes or, as is the case of the high building on the west side of the inlet, of a defensive castle for the Genoese Republic.

As you continue on your paddling journey, you will come across a succession of cliffs, coves and overhanging rocks where you can find overlooking holiday residences and tall maritime pines.

The village of Sori surrounds the next short creek, also characterized by a beach of small pebbles in which a creek of the same name flows. The facade of the eighteenth-century parish church of Santa Margherita is located right by the sea, a short walk from the beach.

Overlooking the sea Above: the town of Bogliasco. Among the colored houses, the arch of the medieval bridge stands out. Below: the facade of S. Margherita in Sori a few from the shore.

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After a few hundred meters, paddling to the east, you can see the village of Camogli. This town has retained all the charm and architecture of an ancient maritime village with colorful nineteenth-century buildings that overlook the port, the beach and the medieval castle Dragone clinging to a rock overlooking the sea. Right on the rock of the castle, once an island separated from the coast, arose the first inhabited area of Camogli with its parish church, then rebuilt with a large neoclassical facade and a baroque bell tower.

In the nineteenth century, Camogli was one of the main centers for the merchant navy. It came to be known as the city of “one thousand white sailing ships�: the owners owned hundreds of boats sailing routes all over the world.

Today, it is a center purely dedicated to tourism, but manages to maintain the

Continuing towards the east the rocky coast becomes even more jagged until it opens into the lower creek of the valley where you can find Recco, the main town of the entire Gulf. Here the beach is protected on each side by two artificial reef brushes: the one on the east contains a small marina and is where the water-bus stops. Behind the modern houses facing the beach you can see the curvy railway bridge rebuilt after the war. In fact, very little remains of the ancient village since Recco suffered heavy bombings aimed at interrupting the coastal railway that at this point emerges from the tunnels and crosses the valley on a long viaduct.

The convent of San Francesco (from the ancient settlement), leaning against the mountain on the eastern side, has been saved. Recco has recently become famous among surfers who take advantage of the waves that creep into the bay.

Hunting for pirates On the coast of Pieve Ligure rises the tower of the Cirla castle. Once a sighting tower against Saracen pirates, in the early twentieth century, it was rebuilt in the shape of a villa following the neo-Gothic taste of the time. Today, it is a private residence.

The steep cliff is divided by numerous small landing spots once used by local fishermen.

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characteristics of a vital fishing village, including a still rich fishing activity as evidenced by the fishing vessels in port.

Sheltered from the pier is a colorful painting of a rowboat with a Latin sail, which has become a symbol for the city. The boat, which bears the name “U Dragun”, is exhibited in rowing events and traditional festivals.

It’s possible to land on the beach behind the parish church of Santa Maria Assunta except when it is crowded on summer weekends. An excursion on foot for the caruggi, the narrow streets of the city, or the squared cobblestone pavements is more than recommended.

Along the pedestrian street overlooking the beach bars, restaurants and the inevitable focaccerie make the stage certainly pleasant. Since we’re mentioning focaccia, a typical Genoese bakery product, it is important to remember how the tasty cheese-stuffed variant is a specialty of the area, in particular of Recco, as certified by the IGP (Protected Geographical Indication) stamp.

Bringing the bow to the east you pass the village and you start to glide past the overhanging cliff, taking care to keep adequate distance from the flaky and unsafe rock.

Villas and parks Above: in Sori, a liberty style tower offered an elegant access to the sea.

Below: towards Recco, villas and houses with a seaside view.

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Castel Dragone The castle in Camogli, also known as the Dragonara, was used to protect the monks from assault from pirates, hostile factions and invaders, including the Milanese Duke Gian Galeazzo Visconti in the 14th century. Destroyed and rebuilt several times, it was used as a prison and to host a small aquarium, now it is open to visitors to the village.

Above the promontory among the crowns of pines, holm oaks and hornbeams you can see the houses and the church of the village of San Rocco, an ideal panoramic point of the whole gulf.

On the coast, still in the thick of Mediterranean scrub, you can see the suggestive Romanesque church of San Nicolò di Capodimonte, once a Benedictine monastery: a path leads quickly to the church from Punta Chiappa.

In this stretch of sea, buoys mark the presence of a small underwater net, a system of fishing with fixed nets, unique to Liguria.

It is worth remembering how, after passing the rocky point that stretches out over the sea, you come out of the gulf protected from currents and winds: therefore, caution is necessary in tackling the next stretch of sea exposed and flanked by steep cliffs. At Punta Chiap-

pa, as indicated by signal buoys with the yellow cross, you are already inside the Protected Marina Area of Portofino that surrounds almost the entire promontory and ensures, with areas of differing degrees of accessibility, the protection of a rich Marine environment.

From this side of the promontory you can visit the stretch of C and B areas, in which rowing is allowed, while there are limitations for sailing and motorboats.

Mooring is not allowed, except under special conditions. The Marine Protected Area is a beautiful accessory to the sea of the Regional Natural Park of Portofino, which extends over the mountain for 18 km2 to the inhabited areas of Portofino and Santa Margherita Ligure.

Apart from the promontory, which can only be accessed on foot and by boats, the whole coast of this route is easily accessible by public and private means.

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Camogli beach The beach in Camogli, dominated by the church of Santa Maria Assunta in the ancient village, is a practical landing place for rowing boats, but it is crowded with tourists during the summer season.

Since Golfo Paradiso (Heaven) is a very popular tourist destination, parking, moving and landings in high season are often complicated by the overcrowding of tourists.

The mildness of the climate, however,

makes it possible to enjoy, even in this stretch of coast, pleasant excursions throughout the year ■

The “Tonnarella” Fishing is still practiced although more at the amateur level than at the professional level. Near Camogli there is a small tuna fishery that renews the tradition handed down since the seventeenth century. The tonnarella is lowered from April to September and “raised” several times a day. In addition to tuna, large migrant fish are caught in front of the promontory.

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1 Bogliasco 2 Sori 3 Recco 4 Camogli 5 San Nicolò 6 Punta Chiappa

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Google Earth

Useful info The succession of well connected villages along the coast facilitates access to the sea: motorway A12 exits Genova Nervi and Recco, train (stations of Nervi, Bogliasco, Sori, Pontetto, Recco and Camogli), provincial buses (ATP), by boat (seasonal line Golfo Paradiso in Nervi, Recco, Camogli and call at Porto Pidocchio on the promontory). The beaches of Bogliasco, Sori and Recco are excellent embarkating points, as they can also be reached by road. Camogli, on the other hand, has a pedestrian center and access to port and beach boarding is limited.

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The abbey of San Fruttuoso di Capodimonte A medieval jewel, now well of the Italian Environment Fund, the abbey is mirrored in a narrow bay in the middle of the promontory.

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The promontory of Portofino Punta Chiappa to Santa Margherita

The promontory of Portofino, which

owes its name to the seaside village of the same name, stretches out over the Ligurian Sea dividing the eastern coastal area of the region resting in between the villages of Camogli and Santa Margherita.

The mountain, which reaches a maximum height of 610 meters, surrounds the Gulf to the west, while to the east it encircles the Gulf of Tigullio. The wooded northern slope joins the Apennine ridge at the Ruta pass, which splits towards Camogli to the west and towards the wide valley above Santa Margherita to the east. The southern side of the mountain, exposed to the sea, is detailed with high cliffs crowned with Mediterranean vegetation of maritime pines and holm oaks.

Much of the mountain falls within the Regional Natural Park, while the sea, which surrounds it on three sides, is included in the Protected Marina Area of Portofino, which extends for over 200 meters from the coast.

This spectacular natural environment, together with the seaside villages and the almost intact artistic spots along the way, makes navigation along the coast one of the most satisfying and exciting experiences in the Ligurian Sea, and most likely of the entire Mediterranean. Due to the protruding cliffs, for long steep stretches causing a lack in landing areas, we would advise caution and attention to varying weather conditions.

Passing Punta Chiappa rock, which closes the Gulfo Paradiso, your bow is directed

Natural Park The promontory, for most of its existence, has been protected since 1935 and is managed by the Portofino Park Authority.

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to the west to skirt the jagged and high cliff up to the lighthouse of Portofino, about seven kilometers away. Numerous buoys ripple the coast along the way: these are mooring points for boats authorized to assist with underwater activities. The entire marine park is in fact a stunning diving area.

Instead, while gazing upwards, the remains of coastal artillery bunkers from the Second World War can be seen sporadically along the route. After less than a kilometer of jagged ridges, opens a wide bay fenced in by yellow signs that mark the park areas. It is Cala dell’Oro, an inlet downstream of a steep ravine, an integral reserve area where access to any boat and even swimming is forbidden. It is therefore necessary to keep outside this area and move towards the cape that surrounds the bay to the east.

On the crest of the rocky spur that closes this cove rises a sixteenth-century tower: a point of observation used to warn against frequent raids from Saracen pirates in this stretch of coast in the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries.

The gray cliff that sinks into the waves has the appearance of a mass of stones, more or less massive, made of granular sandstone. Because of its shape, the rock is known as “puddinga”, or pudding as coined in English.

Once passed the cape where there is a small tower, you can find a bigger bay that falls back near the mountain up to a narrow cove that houses a small fishing village called San Fruttuoso: a few old fishermen houses around the medieval Abbey dedicated to the Spanish saint of Tarragona.

The view of this diverse area, which is close to the sea yet surrounded by the green of the Mediterranean scrub and

Hard “Puddinga” The promontory cliff is characterized by a particularly hard conglomerate with rounded pebbles cemented by a crumbly finish with sharp edges. In the picture is an improvised landing between the rocks before Cala dell’Oro.

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Guard towers Defenses and observatories were built to defend the town and the Abbey of San Fruttuoso in the 16th century. A turret stands out on the rocks that close the bay of Cala dell’Oro, an integral reserve within the Marine Protected Area.

Below: the massive Doria Tower over the cliff in the San Fruttuoso inlet.

olive trees, is truly breathtaking.

The facade of the main building, adorned with two levels of Gothic three-light windows, rests on low arches planted on a pebble beach. The abbey church is visible behind the high octagonal nave tower surmounted by a slate-shaped dome.

Away yet near the abbey, stands a massive quadrangular tower, built to clearly protect the village.

The Abbey was constructed in the twelfth century thanks to the interest of the Genoese Doria family, built on an ancient religious settlement from the VIII century. The Dorias, especially the famous Admiral Andrea, transformed the Abbey of San fruttuoso di Capodimonte into their private shrine in the 14th century, entombing many members of the family.

The ownership of this area by the rich and powerful Genoese family is unmistakably manifested by the coat of arms frescoed on the great tower.

This area, now brought back to its 16th century splendor, is a heritage of the 27

The Doria Shrine In the bay hidden by the sea, not very accessible from the mountain, but rich in fresh water, a small church was erected which, from the tenth century, expanded as a Benedictine monastery. The rich Doria family, in particular Admiral Andrea Doria, invested in its development and transformed it into their own monumental shrine.

Italian Environment Fund and can be visited entirely, which is doubtlessly recommended. The landing on the pebble beach, formed after a disastrous flood in the early twentieth century, would be easy if it were not for the overcrowding of beach goers on the shore and of the boats at the small pier in late spring and summer. Definitely better to take advantage of the mild climate in the rest of the year and enjoy the view of the bay in complete stillness and serenity.

The “Cristo degli abissi� (a submerged bronze statue of Jesus Christ) was placed at the bottom of the sea, not far from the shore, in the fifties, and today is a famous destination for scuba divers and freedivers. While setting off towards the east, you pass by Punta Carega and continue along to see the steep cliff of the white lighthouse of Portofino.

Before paddling around the tip, you can see the profile of the church of San Giorgio, patron saint of the village, looking out from the top of the rock face.

After going around the bend, on which the lighthouse stands, you can follow the cliff surmounted here by the massive Brown castle, the ancient Genoese fortress, which protects the inlet of the small and ancient seaside village of Portofino. The reputation of this town, an exclusive tourist center since the end of the 19th century, extends far beyond the Ligurian Riviera. This side of the promontory, with more gentle terraced slopes and dotted with small bays, became and remains today a top international holiday destination, as evidenced by the luxurious yachts anchored in the bay in the summer. The village has however retained its ancient architectural cha28

pubs and small hotels on a beautiful sandy beach. Shortly after, you can see the bell tower of the Abbey of San Girolamo della Cervara, an ancient 14th century monastery, today a luxurious hotel.

The village of Santa Margherita occu-

racteristics and a walk, after the easy landing on the marina’s slipway, is certainly recommended.The paddling continues going up the promontory to the north and after about a kilometer you enter the Paraggi bay where you can find

Punta Portofino The white lighthouse is the ancient church of San Giorgio (below) on the foothills of the Portofino mountain.

The church of medieval origins was transformed and expanded in 1760. Destroyed during a bombing in the Second World War it was rebuilt taking on a seventeenth-century structure.

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Small sqare for VIPs

pies the basin north of the promontory and surrounds a large bay, today protected by a long pier that borders the busy tourist port. The village towards the sea is dominated by the profile of the seventeenth-century Baroque Villa Durazzo Centurione that rises upon a green hill: the lush garden of the villa itself, which today has become a municipal park. Below the villa are ancient typically colored buildings that face the small port together with the defensive tower built by the Genoese in the sixteenth century. Continuing to the north, there is a wide beach with buildings and hotels dating back to the end of the nineteenth century, witnesses of a very lively tourist vacation spot. The center of Santa Margherita is certainly an excellent base for excursions to the promontory: the railway station and the Rapallo motorway exit make it easily accessible, while the wide range of services for tourism makes it as an ideal place to stay â–

Below: the open space, where once fishermen’s boats were stranded, is an exclusive square with refined local and fashion boutiques.

The limited access to the village and the expensive parking areas advise against considering Portofino as a starting point or destination for trips. Better to take advantage of the well connected and not too distant Santa Margherita. However, a stop in this ancient village is a must if only to appease the charm of a destination of international social life.

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Dolphin Port Above the Brown castle, from the name of the old English owners, dominates the marina of the village of Portofino. From the time of the Romans, the then “Portus Delphini� was a safe landing point. Today in high season the mirror of water is crowded with sailing ships, yachts and large speedboats often flying the flag of exotic marinas.

From castle to villa The castle of Paraggi closes the homonymous bay characterized by a large equipped beach on which an exclusicce beach stands. The structure of the castle, designed by the Genovese in the seventeenth century, after various adaptations, is today a luxurious private residence.

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Zone B

Zone C 1 Cala dell’Oro 2 San Fruttuoso 3 LightHouse 4 Portofino 5 Paraggi 6 Santa Margherita Google Earth

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Under the Genovese flag The rough bulk of the 16th-century Genovese castle is reflected in the large marina of Santa Margherita.

Zone A integral reserve, access only for authorized scientific research.

Zone B general reserve, possible rowing

or sailing and swimming. Dives allowed only to authorized diving centers. No anchorage.

Zone C partial reserve, only limited restrictions on access and use.

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Useful info Santa Margherita è ben collegata grazie Santa Margherita is well connected thanks to the nearby exit of the Rapallo motorway A12 and the railway station on the Genoa La Spezia railway line. The center is served by the provincial buses (ATP) and the boats of the Maritime Service line of the Tigullio (Rapallo, Santa Margherita, Portofino, San Fruttuoso). Access to the sea from the nearby coastal road is also possible in the Paraggi bay, while in Portofino the center is pedestrian and parking limits are strong.

San Frutoso is reachable only by boat or on non-driveways.

The Park represents a unique natural environment and a cultural testimony of great artistic and ethnographic value. Numerous sites (from medieval testimonies, to eighteenth-century mills up to the bunkers of the world war) have been restructured for the visit along the 80 kilometers of marked paths.

Protected nature View of the bay of San Fruttuoso with ancient fishermen dwellings with large areas for sheltering boats, today tourists’ kayaks.

Find sites on Google Maps by scanning the QR code above.

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The castle in Rapallo It rises on a rock connected to the mainland by a strip of land and has an original structure with two opposing circular apses. Its construction was decided in 1550 after the devastating raid by the Saracen pirate Dragout; who destroyed the village of Rapallo and enslaved the population.

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the Western Tigullio From San Michele di Pagana to Chiavari

F

Protected observatory

rom the Punta di Portofino to Capo Manara, after Sestri Levante, the Gulf of Tigullio extends further. The coast, which is divided into a large curve of a total of 30 kilometers, is characterized by jagged loops in the western stretch, a low coast in the middle at the mouth of the river Entella and finally steep cliffs in the promontory that surrounds it in the east.

The territory in fact has quite a diverse environment: from natural parks and protected areas to the crowded centers of Chiavari and Lavagna that extend into the coastal flat area or along the bottom of the valley like Rapallo. The coastal itinerary then touches on places rich in history and culture: castles, villas and historical centers follow one after another along the curvy gulf which takes its name from the pre-Roman people who lived there, the Tigulli.

From the port of Santa Margherita, parading along the seafront of the luxurious Bell’Époque style hotels, you head north towards Punta Pagana. Crossing the mirror-like waters in front of the ports is always to be done with much attention to the traffic of the boats: you must therefore consider that along this route you meet major tourist ports along the Levante Riviera and that, especially during the summer, recreational boating is very much practiced.

The jagged edge, which closes the bay of Santa Margherita, houses a small fortress with a star-shaped plant built by the Genoese Republic in the seventeenth century. Among the maritime pines you

The sixteenth-century Punta Pagana tower is a property protected by the Italian Environmental Fund.

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can see the high fortresses surmounted by watchtowers.

Today, the fort and the adjacent villa are the heritage of the Knights of Malta, donated by the old owners.

Next you will see two inlets and the small beaches of Prelo and Trelo, separated by a space occupied by an ancient cemetery. Incorporated into the walls of the cemetery area stands a sixteenth-century Saracen tower restored by the Italian Environment Fund, which owns it. Behind that you can see the bell tower of the ancient church of San Michele di Pagana.

The small bay of Trelo joins the wider one of Pomaro: both are surrounded by the typical colored Ligurian houses, once fishermen’s homes, which zigzag along the shore. These small tows, which overlook the three bays, make up the village

Impenetrable fortress Carrier of the coastal defense of the gulf, the Genovese peak, Punta Pagana, was built to prevent an attack by the Savoias.

But it was never attacked; Abandoned, it became part of a private residence.

of San Michele, part of the municipality of Rapallo to which it is connected by the coastal road that runs above the cliff.

While paddling on you arrive quickly to tackle the long boundary of the large tourist port of Rapallo (with a capacity of 900 berths) dominated by the imposing facade of a luxury hotel in Art Nouveau style. Rapallo, famous at the end of the nineteenth century for exclusive hotels frequented by international nobility and 36

for the large villas of rich industrial families, its’ village appearance has been distorted by urbanization in the sixties.

To criticize the phenomenon of wild over development and denounce it to the public, the famous journalist Indro Montanelli coined precisely the term “rapallization”.

From the sea, however, the modern buildings remain hidden behind the historical center facing the shore where, connected by a ribbon of sand, stands the Genoese castle of the sixteenth century, today the municipal center for exhibitions and shows. The touristic tradition of Rapallo has however remained, as evidenced by the numerous pubs and bars along the waterfront. As you are padding past Rapallo, the coast line bends towards the south-east and features rocks and high walls of stratified sandstone that create unique shapes on the water. You can see, at the top of the rocks, pines of Aleppo villas and more modest dwellings that overlook the sea.

This stretch of sea is less protected by the promontory of Portofino and therefore more exposed to the conditions of

Hidden treasures The baroque bell tower of St. Michael of Pagana stands out among the maritime pines. The small church contains valuable works including an altarpiece by the famous painter Van Dyck. Below: the bay of Pomaro with its colourful fishermen’s houses. Today it is a well-equipped beach.

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the open sea.

The coast has limited safe landing points: it is therefore recommended particular attention when programming an excursion.

Before reaching Zoagli, the next village on the sea, you will come across one of the few landings along these cliffs: the small beach of Bardi Marina created at the bottom of a small valley from the sediments of the stream.

After this small creek, the cliff rises steeply, while large boulders, populated by herons, seagulls and bertes, emerge from the sea: it is the most evocative and naturalistic stretch of the route.

The village of Zoagli occupies the small area at the mouth of the creek, facing terraced slopes. From the ancient village, behind the railway viaduct that divides the town from the beach, there is not much left after the bombing of the war: two ancient watchtowers and the parish church near the village. However, the town has found a tourist attraction and the view towards Portofino, especially at night, is definitely spectacular.

After Zoagli, looking up to the ridge, you can see a large building with curious architecture like a cathedral or an exotic castle.

View of Portofino From the main square in Zoagli, through the arches of the railway viaduct, you can see the Punta di Portofino which closes the Gulf of Tigullio to the south.

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Steep cliffs The jagged cliffs of the coast near Zoagli are topped by a rich Mediterranean maquis.

This stretch of steep coast has no moorings and is particularly exposed to the open sea.

The approach must therefore be slow and careful.

The town of Chiavari, lying in the flat area and separated by the river Entella from the next town of Lavagna, is revealed through the imposing silhouette of the Fara colony, a rationalist skyscraper from the thirties with a particular rounded facade. Built in the fascist period as a children’s colony, it has had many vicissitudes and has remained in a state of neglect until the recent recovery works to convert it to a residential and commercial structure.

In front of the building, to protect the

This is the eclectic style villa built by the eccentric poet and playwright Sem Benelli in the early twentieth century. Here, is where the artist, symbolist author and follower of futurism, spent the last years of his life.

Continuing your navigation from Zoagli to Chiavari the coast begins to rise, while the houses on the ridge are thinned out to leave the place to the woods. The bell tower of the ancient sanctuary of the Madonna delle Grazie stands out for its frescos from the 16th century.

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Castles on the sea

beach, a long artificial reef has been placed that extends out to the large modern marina that can accommodate 460 boats. To the side of the entrance of the port, facing west, there is a large artificial beach, which is an excellent solution when landing boats.

Chiavari is a large center with a rich history that is reflected in its civil and religious architecture. Already a Roman city, then passed under the Genoese dominion, it preserves a network of medieval streets characterized by low porticoes. Baroque churches, Renaissance palaces and a castle on the hill behind the town enrich this historic village.

Chiavari offers a wide variety of facilities and services for tourism and is well connected to other towns along the coast thanks to the motorway and the railway.

Together, with the other large towns of Santa Margherita and Rapallo, it represents a valid reference point on your nautical itinerary.

Above: the Sem Benelli castle stands out on the crest. Below: observation tower incorporated into a villa in Zoagli.

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The extension of the trip with a visit to the historical centers of these towns is particularly recommended and will certainly be appreciated.

As with all holiday centers on the Riviera, overcrowding during the summer makes the logistics for organizing excursions more complicated. Here too the climate, particularly mild throughout the year, suggests choosing a beautiful sunny day in low season â–

Colony Fara Designed by the architects Nardi Greco and Castello in the imposing rationalist style of the time, was inaugurated in 1938. The colony, which takes its name from General Gustavo Fara, could accommodate up to 400 children. With the advent of war it became a military hospital, a shelter for German soldiers and allied troops. After the war it hosted Istrian refugees. In the following years, it once again became a holiday colony, then a hostel and finally a school.

Abandoned for twenty years, it is now the subject of a recovery project.

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3 Useful info

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The western Gulf of Tigullio is particularly urbanized housing the main centers of the province after the capital of Genoa. The motorway runs along the coast connecting Rapallo and Chiavari, while the railway passes by Santa Margherita, Rapallo, Zoagli and Chiavari.

The settlements are served by provincial buses (ATP) and by boats of the Tigullio Maritime Service line.

The marinas of Santa Margherita, Rapallo and Chiavari are among the largest and most frequented on the Ligurian coast.

Free and paid parking are present in the major centers.

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1 km

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1 Santa Margherita 2 San Michele 3 Rapallo 4 Bardi marina 5 Zoagli 6 Chiavari

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Google Earth

Ancient rocks

Find sites on Google Maps by scanning the QR code

The sandstone layers, fractured and deformed during various geological eras, has created a jagged cliff that accompanies the navigation from Zoagli to Chiavari.

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Lookout point in Moneglia Above the ruins of the Genovese castle of Monleone, built in the twelfth century to protect the seaside village of Moneglia, stands the villa liberty “de Fornari� with its characteristic medieval tower. Behind the old railway bridge and at the front of recent homes, we can see the bell tower of the Benedictine church of San Giorgio.

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The western Tigullio From Lavagna to Moneglia

The mouth of the Entella river, which

separates the settlements of Chiavari and Lavagna, is more or less in the middle of the Tigullio Gulf. The eastern part of the inlet is characterized for a large stretch by a low sandy coastline behind which the town of Lavagna and its districts stretch out. The village, from the ancient medieval center leaning against the slopes of the hills, faces the large marina protected by a long dam.

After the port, there are well-equipped beaches and artificial reef brushes, placed to protect the former, which extend for about four kilometers. This stretch of coast is not very interesting: the focus is on the small promontory, which closes the gulf to the east, and the village of Sestri Levante rests at its feet. The Aurelia highway runs adjacent to the coast, along with the railway line. Both disappear into tunnels as soon as the coast rises into a steep cliff just before the valley where the most modern part of the village and its suburbs emerge.

The historical center of Sestri Levante occupies the entire neck of the promontory: the baroque palaces and the old fishermen’s houses in the west face the so-called “delle Favole” (Fairytale) bay, while in the east there is one called “del Silenzio” (Peace). The first name recalls the work of the writer Hans Christian Andersen who stayed here in the early nineteenth century and to whom the city dedicates an annual festival. The second name seems to be coined by a local poet.

Due to its particular position between two bays Sestri is often referred to as

Marconi’s tower An observation tower has emerged from the promontory over Sestri. It became famous because it housed Guglielmo Marconi’s radiotelegraphy laboratory in the 1930s. The radio beacon activated on the tower guided with precision the Electra, the scientist’s ship, in a path between buoys, thus demonstrating the usefulness of radio waves during navigation. Since then, Tigullio is also named “Marconi’s Gulf”.

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Fables and Silence The western bay of Sestri, with wide sandy beaches on which old wooden boats rest, is called “Fables” (to the side), the eastern one closed off by the ancient convent of the Annunziata (below) is known instead as “Silence”.

the “city of the two seas”. The green promontory, which was once a fortress, houses a medieval-style villa (Castelli Gualino), the Romanesque parish church of San Nicolò with the pointed stone bell tower and the ruins of the oratory of Santa Caterina: circumnavigating the

promontory you can see the roofs of these buildings between the fronds of maritime pines and Mediterranean scrub.

Among the trees there is also the outline of a red tower, famous for being used by the Nobel Prize winner Guglielmo Marconi in the thirties for his experiments

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on radio waves.

The “baia del Silenzio”, framed by colorful houses, once belonging to local fisherman. Today, there are pubs and bars for tourists, has been closed off by the former convent (dell’Annunziata) currently home to a multi-purpose center for the municipality.

Landing on the beaches of Sestri, protected by the harbor pier to the west and the rocks to the east, is easy and recommended for a visit to this traditional village. Leaving the bay begins off the jagged cliff of Punta Manara, end of the great promontory of Monte Castello that rises up to 260 meters above sea level. This solid structure, triangular in shape, is covered with holm oaks, alders, strawberry trees and pines. The whole area is subject to environmental protection and is a popular destination for hikers. Before reaching the tip, we reach a large slab of sandstone bending towards the sea, the so-called “Ciappa du Lu”, where a momentary landing is possible. On the ridge, stands the remains of an ancient Saracen watchtower.

The “pescatorello” in the bay The statue of the contemporary Sestrese artist, Leonardo Lustig, appears on a rock of the Silent bay. Bronze has become an icon of the village since it was placed in 2013.

Below, entrance to the bay of Silence.

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technologies, has a long history having been founded at the end of the nineteenth century and represents a piece of the country’s industrial history.

Rio beach ends at the “Assêu”, a low rock adjacent to the coast and crowned with a cross. From here there is a high and spectacular cliff characterized by vertical layers of sedimentary rocks. These large slabs of gray rock rise for tens of meters, perpendicular to the coastline, with large fractures and isolated stacks. The effect is really quite impressive.

Below the mountain runs the tunnel for the old railway line turned into an alternating way road. From Riva to the next town of Moneglia you can in fact take this road, paying attention that the cros-

Moving along, you can catch a glimpse of the low coast of Riva Trigoso characterized by a deep sandy beach at the sides of the mouth of the stream Petronio, from the town of colorful low-rise houses and, in the distance, see huge cranes in the shipyard.

The village of Riva Trigoso, a district of Sestri, occupies the area between the Punta Manara and the high cliff of Punta Baffe to the east. On the eastern side of the beach there are Fincantieri shipyards, a company specialized in the construction of military ships. The sight of the plant and the prows of the great ships that face the sea, is certainly suggestive. The construction site, which today exploits the most advanced construction 48

Manara’s Cape On the left, the tip is characterized by high rock bastions. On the right, the promontory of Monte Castello, with the offshoot of Punta Manara, as seen from the beach of Riva Trigoso. sing times are marked by long stops to allow for alternating traffic.

Shortly after the tip, crossing a gorge on a massive viaduct, the path exits outside for a few tens of meters. Here, when the sea is calm, it is possible to land on the big stones under the viaduct.

It is important to consider that this whole stretch of coast is particularly exposed to winds or currents and that sea storms are particularly violent, as demonstrated by the broken and damaged artifacts and protective walls along the way.

Continuing towards the east, the cliff remains high, jagged and without any landing space along the promontory of Punta Moneglia until the entrance of the village of the same name.

The old railway track crossed the valley between Punta Moneglia and the next Punta Rospo on a viaduct built between

Big ships The ships of the Italian Navy are built on the Riva shipyards, and not only.

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stretch, the old railway, passing under the hill, serves as a road link, with alternated ways, between the two towns. A stone roadbed was built along the entire cliff to protect the tunnel today eroded in many points by the sea. The arrival at Deiva is finally sighted through a sequence of modern buildings, a sign of the tourist exploitation of the seventies.

Like the previous stretches of coast, the latter, between Moneglia and Deiva, does not offer safe landings or shelters: the coastal navigation must therefore be well planned considering the exposure to the open sea and the few little ports reachable along the route.

the beach and the village.

The structure, maintained for road traffic control, hides the front of the houses from the sea. The beach of Moneglia is also protected by artificial reefs, which are parallel to the coastline.

The historical center of the town, which today lives purely on seaside tourism, is fairly well preserved and certainly deserves a relaxing walk.

Moneglia is the last municipality of the metropolitan city of Genoa, bordering the province of La Spezia: a green hill separates the village from the valley to the east where you can find the populated village of Deiva Marina. Also in this

Rock Millefoglie (a thousand leaves) Mount Moneglia juts out into the sea with the jagged Baffe and Moneglia peaks characterized by sandstone rocks stratified in spectacular naturalistic formations, in particular for the fauna present. At the top of the previous page, the Baffe tip stands out on the horizon as it skirts past Punta Moneglia verticals (left). The mountain is a Site of Community Importance (SCI) due to its aspect

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For travel between towns, in addition to the coastal road in the tunnel, it is worth considering the railway that connects all the centers of the coast in a few minutes. The access to the highway, which

runs inland, is instead practical only for the western inhabited areas of Sestri Levante and Riva Trigoso. â–

Glimpses of history Behind the ruins of a tower rises the bell tower of the seventeenth century church of Santa Croce in Moneglia. On the outer wall of the building there are some rings of the chain that closed the entrance to the port of Pisa, a trophy of the Genovese victory in the Meloria battle of 1284.

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1 Lavagna 2 Sestri levante 3 Punta Manara 4 Riga Trigoso 5 Moneglia 6 Deiva Marina Google Earth

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Vertical walls The suggestion of the walls overlooking the sea also attracts climbing enthusiasts, while numerous excursionists face the peaks along the paths.

On the left, the madonnetta on the rock in Punta Baffe.

On the right, a wall in Punta Moneglia.

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Useful info The eastern Gulf of Tigullio is distinguished in two distinct areas for accessibility to the coast. From Lavagna to Sestri the succession of inhabited areas, the presence of the coastal state road and the nearby A12 motorway (exits Lavagna and Sestri) make access to the sea particularly easy. Unlike in the eastern part the mountain and the high cliffs limit it to the only centers in the valleys. The latter (Riva Trigoso, Moneglia, Deiva Marina) are in any case connected by the narrow road that runs through an old railway tunnel, but above all by the new line (stations at Lavagna, Cavi, Sestri, Riva, Mogullia, Deiva). The Deiva motorway exit is far from the coast. All inhabited are served by the provincial buses (ATP), while the boats of the Tigullio Maritime Service line pass by Lavagna and Sestri.

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Find sites on Google Maps by scanning this QR code

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Cliffs and caves Above: rocks overlooking the promontory of Portofino towards Punta Faro.

On the right: between the fractured rock slabs, a hole opens towards a cove in the jagged coast at Moneglia.

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Safety first!

Whatever the rowing boat used in the excursion - from sea kayak to SUP (Stand Up Paddle), from the open canoe Sit on Top to the traditional rowing boat - some warnings are always to be considered very carefully: •

consider their capacities according to the length of the stretch and weather conditions on the sea;

•

evaluate and adapt the route to the weather forecasts (wind, wave on the coast, currents);

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study the itinerary by identifying landing points and coasts exposed to the open sea;

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equip yourself with suitable protective clothing (technical or suits, boots, caps, goggles) and rescue gear (buoyancy aid jacket);

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bring sufficient supplies of water and foodstuffs;

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communicate the planned itinerary and the scheduled timing to your land contacts;

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preferably make a group trip or at least in a pair.

By observing these simple rules of behavior, one can safely experience the adventure of coastal tourism by sea ■

Browse the ARPAL site and check the weather forecast for Liguria by scanning the QR code alongside

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Planning The itineraries proposed in this guide provide a navigation along the coast, at sight and always in the vicinity of landings and populated areas. Therefore the preparation and management of an excursion in good weather and sea conditions is certainly facilitated. However, this does not exempt us from facing the excursion with adequate planning to be able to enjoy an experience in peace and safety. It is essential to always calculate the distances of the itinerary that must be commensurate with the capacity of the participants and time available.

Always keeping in mind, as a reference, the least prepared and slowest person in the group.

By tracing the route (following the irregularities of the coast) on a topographical or nautical map, you can measure the overall distance and then calculate the possible stages. The distance must therefore be divided by the average speed of the group to which the times for any stops must be added. Always carefully consider the speed based on the experience, the physical shape of the participants as well as the state of the sea, for example the presence of waves, wind and currents. Other elements to be evaluated are the number of participants (which normally slows down the progression) and the possibility of making small stops along the way. For example, an expert canoeist in fair sea conditions can easily hold an average hourly speed of 3 kn (knots) or 3 nautical miles (1 NM = 1.852 km), then travel 5.5 km in a hour.

If, on the other hand, you are in a group or if you want to stop and admire the landscape from time to time, the route you have taken in one hour will be significantly reduced.

In a day of navigation it is therefore

Maps and tracks Above: large-scale nautical chart. On the right: detailed IGM 1: 25.000 card. Below right: processing of the route on Google Earth. possible to cover large distances, but it is always advisable to calculate a good margin of time available to manage unforeseen unforeseen circumstances. A day trip can therefore be planned, considering all the environmental variables, over distances from 15 to 25 km, which are naturally reduced in the case of beginners or conditions that are not particularly favorable. • Coastal nautical charts are an excellent tool for pleasure boating, indicating the characteristics of the coastline, landings and foundations.They are perfect in case of shallow sea and tide.

However, due to their large scale (1 cm to 100,000 or 50,000 for the most detailed) they offer limited information on the hinterland. The distances measured on these cards are in nautical miles (1 = 1.852 km).

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• The topographic maps representing the terrain are instead perfect for identifying the relevant points on the coast, accesses and characteristics of the territory. They can have very small scales (1 cm to 25,000, 10,000) and therefore useful for visualizing the hinterland as well as being perfectly prepared for planning the logistics of the trip. These maps use metric measurement.

online is today extremely diverse: from maps available on sophisticated apps, on hiking or road maps. As presented in the pages of this guide the use of this map can be particularly useful and easy. For example, the Google Maps service www.google.it/maps (with the connected Street View displaying panoramic photographs) lends itself easily to the organization of logistics (identifying routes to reach the coast, access to the sea, services to the ground). The use of Google Earth go-

• Digital cartography that can be used

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Orientering

ogle is equally practical. it/intl/it/earth that, in addition to offering an interesting 3D photographic view, allows you to trace the planned path, thus having a precise comparison of the actual distances â–

During navigation it is important to know your position in order to always have clear the distance traveled and the distance to be traveled. The particular elements on the coast are certainly useful for orientation, but it can happen to skirt high cliffs or indistinct stretches of coastline. For this it is recommended to have available on the boat a copy of the map used for planning that can help to interpret the coast.

Taking the time into account and estimating one’s speed is used to approximate the distance traveled and therefore to find one’s position on the map itself. A compass can indicate the precise direction of our progression at sea, especially near bends, heads and islets. Furthermore, the compass allows us to define the position through the map on the map of

In water safely Well equipped, aware of the itinerary and the weather conditions to be faced, the only surprise being the beauty of the coast!

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the known points identified on the coast. A good preparation on orientation techniques and the use of the compass is therefore appropriate.For orientation it is certainly easier to have the availability of a mobile device with a GPS signal that can indicate the position on a digital map.

However, relying too heavily on these technologies depending on limited batteries can be risky: better always to have an alternative.

This short guide aims to inspire you to experience a nautical experience full of emotions and new stimuli: it is in fact to be considered as an invitation to be aware of the natural, historical and architectural environment that you encounter while paddling along the coast.

For this reason it is suggested to read up further on the naturalistic and cultural aspects of the coast you intend to explore. A good source of information is from local tourist agencies, the sites of

the park authorities and the tourist hotel associations â–

Useful info Online resources in the territory: www.lamialiguria.it www.visitgenoa.it www.beactiveliguria.it

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Edizioni CoastalTouring Genoa © 2019 Copyrights

The author and his friends

Copyrights for reproduced maps and online version: © 2018 Google LLC, used with permission. Google and the Google logo are registered trademarks of Google LLC. Google Earth Data SIO, NOAA, US Navy, NGA, GEBCO. Image Landsat/Copernicus.

For photographs: © 2018 Paolo Ghelfi

The author Paolo Ghelfi, journalist, lives in Genoa and paddles in Liguria, but also around Italy and the world.

Translation in English has been made by Julia Delgado.

For the realization of this guide we thank our paddling friends: Andrea, Adriana, Claudia, Giuliano, Elena, Luisa, Marco, Nicola, Salvatore.

Editions Coastal Touring

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www.parcoportofino.com

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VISITGENOA.IT 63

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The east coast of the city of Genoa is

characterized by the variety and uniqueness of sites of interest. This territory, although in many urbanized places, environments of great naturalistic value protected within protected areas are still preserved. Equally valuable are the historical and architectural features. The perspective from the sea allows you to appreciate this context in a unique and fascinating way.

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â‚Ź 6,20

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