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Good food. Good drink. Good read. • No. 19 • Winter 2012

The Vegetarian Issue The Vegetarian Holiday Table The Dangers of GM Food Be Wise Ranch Casa De Luz Spread


Famgro Farms proudly presents

SWEE T K ALE

Perfectly pure: no pesticides or herbicides No need to treat and un-typically sweet Eats like lettuce, serves as salad, enjoy it raw Now available at Burlap, AR Valentien, Park Hyatt Aviara and through fine food distributors in San Diego

Famgro.com

FamgroFarms

FamgroFarms


{Two Cents}

“Eating is an agricultural act.” As Wendell Berry so famously proclaimed, “Eating is an agricultural act.” What I take away from that thought-provoking connection is that the food we eat supports the kind of agriculture that created it. Organic or not. Factory or not. Loaded with pesticides or not. With antibiotics or not. Biotech-controlled or not. So while the recent dust-up over genetically modified (GM) food labeling is more complex and controversial than this simple either-or paradigm, in some ways it isn’t. What do you choose to eat? Choice is at the core.

Riley Davenport & John Vawter

Prop 37’s (Right to Know) loss was not a repudiation of the movement to label GMOs (genetically modified organisms). It helped to bring the issue into the spotlight and to ignite national interest. Most people who switched from Yes to No still favor labeling, but they objected to the design of the proposition. The fight continues with ballot measures and legislation planned in a dozen other states. Inevitably, the U.S. will join virtually every other developed country in the world (where GMOs are not banned outright) in making labeling mandatory. The sooner the better.

What concerns us most is that GM foods have not been proven safe. Many studies suggest real health risks from GM foods, and only one long term study has been done. The controversial Seralini study lasted about two years, and no prior studies exceeded 90 days. The Seralini study showed that cancerous tumors in rats were linked to glyphosate and GM food. One study alone does not prove anything, and this study has been severely criticized. But most independent scientists not beholden to the commercial biotech industry agree that, at a minimum, the results of this and many other studies showing possible health risks call for more research to be done. But like the tobacco industry, Monsanto, Dow, Syngenta and the rest are fighting to influence the results of studies and to prevent independent research. And we can’t rely on the FDA, EPA or the USDA to hold their feet to the fire: There are too many officials in government from biotech and Big Ag who are biased toward the industry’s interests. We need to demand long-term testing of all GM foods now, and to prohibit the use of bioactive nutritionally enhanced plants (NEPs—see Dr. David Schubert’s article in this issue) in food until the risks can be thoroughly assessed through rigorous, unbiased, peer-reviewed scientific research.

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edible Communities 2011 James Beard Foundation Publication of the Year

MEMBER OF EDIBLE COMMUNITIES

CONTRIBUTORS

Edible San Diego P.O. Box 83549 John Alongé San Diego, CA 92138 Lisa Altmann 619-222-8267 Casey Anderson Chris Rov Costa info@ediblesandiego.com ediblesandiego.com Adam Fuller Caron Golden ADVERTISING Michelle Hackney For information about Brandon Hernández rates and deadlines, call Lauren D. Lastowka 619-222-8267 Mo Rafael or email us at Vincent Rossi info@ediblesandiego.com Susan Russo David Schubert No part of this publication may be Leah R. Singer used without written Matt Steiger permission of the Britta Turner publisher. © 2012. Lyudmila Zotova All rights reserved.

PUBLISHERS Every effort is made to Riley Davenport avoid errors, misspellings and omissions. If an error John Vawter comes to your attention, please let us know EDITOR and accept our sincere Lauren Lastowka apologies. Thank you. COPY EDITORS Doug Adrianson John Vawter Michelle Honig

DESIGNER Riley Davenport

COVER PHOTO Chris Rov Costa


Winter 2012

CONTENTS

DEPARTMENTS

TWO CENTS

2

JUST SPROUTING

6

TO YOUR HEALTH: WINTERIZE YOUR BODY 10

LOCAL TALENT: ROBIN SCHIFF OF SPREAD

12

GIVING BACK: BIG CHECKS AND SMILES

16

LIQUID ASSETS: A HELL OF A WHISKEY 40

LIQUID ASSETS: BIRD ROCK COFFEE ROASTERS

41

LIQUID ASSETS: SOCIETE BREWING

42

RESOURCES & ADVERTISERS

45

49

FARMERS’ MARKETS

FEATURES

BE WISE RANCH

19

SAN DIEGO’S LIFE BLOOD

24

CASA DE LUZ

28

THE VEGETARIAN HOLIDAY TABLE

32

THE ILLUSION OF GENETICALLY MODIFIED FOOD SAFETY

38

Recipe for a festive blood orange and St-Germain sorbet is on page 34. Photo: Lyudmila Zotova

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From our farm to your table

Our plump pullets are hand-raised and grow naturally on the finest grains, vegetables from our garden and forage in large treeshaded paddocks.

Large (5+ lbs) $25 Small (3+ lbs) one $17 or two for $30 TAJ Farms, a CSA subscription farm in Valley Center, is dedicated to sustainable and responsible agricultural practices. Deliveries throughout the week. Always fresh.

We also raise beef, pork, goat and lamb.

tajfarms.net•760-670-7012 4

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*See ad page 9.

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{Just Sprouting} Second Chance: Cultivating Community for Youth The quarter-acre garden is the clear bright spot on a tired stretch of Imperial Avenue in Encanto. Sitting on the edge of a parking lot across from railroad tracks, it’s bursting with tomatoes and eggplant, okra and cucumbers, tomatillo, mint and one very large pumpkin. Nearby, another patch of land is being prepared for an orchard. This is the new Second Chance Urban Garden, part of Second Chance’s 3-year-old program for young people with a history of incarceration or gang involvement. Called JOLT ( Juvenile Options for Lifelong Transitions), the program offers counseling and cognitive behavior training while the youth offenders are in jail. Once they’re released, they can participate in Second Chance’s hands-on training and life skills education, including working at the urban garden. For pay. With Southeast San Diego an acknowledged food desert, starting a garden was the perfect way to provide what program manager Ricky Valdez calls “restorative justice” for the community. “We had a little land and a little money,” says Valdez. “We felt it was important for our youth to do something that would give back to the community and connect them to it in a different way. We’ve transformed that empty lot and it’s now a vibrant garden that the community appreciates.” Between five and 10 young people work on the garden—planting, maintaining and harvesting crops and then selling them at the neighborhood farmers’ market and the Little Italy Mercato. The proceeds go back into the garden and pay the youths’ salaries. Now the organization is planning work days for the community so they can participate. But beyond giving back to the community, the garden has become transformative for those who work there. Rival gang members water, pick weeds and harvest together. The garden has given one young man, Jose, a career direction and a quiet, contemplative place to spend his days.

Photo: Riley Davenport

José Perez

“Sometimes I’m working here and it’s so peaceful,” he says quietly. “It gives me a chance to think. It’s very therapeutic.” SecondChanceProgram.org ~ Caron Golden

Archi’s Acres Starts Veterans Valor Fund Archi’s Acres, the modest yet bountiful organic farm in Valley Center, has raised the bar on its dual commitment to address our country’s pressing need for small-scale sustainable farmers and to help military personnel transition to fulfilling work in civilian life. Archi’s Acres has formed a nonprofit foundation called the Veterans Valor Fund (VVF). Its purpose is to provide scholarships, lowinterest loans and grants to support veterans who want to “redirect their leadership skills into sustainable agriculture as a career.” Owners Colin and Karen Archipley and their team at Archi’s Acres already have a highly acclaimed certificate training program in place. Since its founding in 2007, the Veterans Sustainable Agriculture

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Training (VSAT) program has graduated over 100 servicemen and -women, preparing them to become self-sufficient hydroponic farmers and entrepreneurs in other farm-to-market food enterprises. The new Veterans Valor Fund is staffed and supported entirely by volunteers, allowing 100% of contributions to directly support their target group of transitioning veterans to achieve their educational, agricultural and business goals. VVF also advocates for the interests of veterans; provides outreach to the American public, the media and the government; and champions the cause of smallscale sustainable agribusiness. ~ Mo Rafael


Sustaining San Diego One Seed at a Time Grown from sweat and ambition, the San Diego Seed Company strives to provide Southern California with locally grown and hand-harvested heirloom fruit, vegetable, herb and companion flower seeds—a range of products that no other local farm offers. “We want our community to have seeds available that are sustainable, seasonal, adapted to San Diego’s soil and microclimate, and that are grown using integrated pest management and other natural growing practices,” says co-owner Carrie Driskill. “It is extremely important to us that we offer our seeds that were grown using the least amount of pesticides and petrochemicals possible.” San Diego Seed Company has teamed up with local nonprofits including San Diego Roots Sustainable Food Project, Wild Willow Farm and Education Center, San Diego Edible Garden Society and Golden Hill Community Garden to educate about the importance of preserving local seeds through seed saving, seed banking and seed swaps. “The facilitation of community-centered seed-saving education and family-friendly seed swaps is the essence of the company and encourages the bartering spirit that is so central to growing and farming,” says co-owner Brijette Romstedt.

Photo: Riley Davenport

Brijette Romstedt and Carrie Driskill and their prize seed pumpkins

Golden Hill Community Garden meetings. Watch for San Diego Seed Company at local farmers’ markets and retail locations around the city. For more information on seed swaps or to purchase seeds, visit SanDiegoSeedCompany.com.

Seed sustainability classes are offered at Wild Willow Farm and

~ Michelle Hackney Up north at San Marcos’ Port Brewing, head brewer Mike Rodriguez rallied the company’s fans to help his crew pick hops in nearby Fallbrook over a several day stint for their Homegrown Fallbrook Estate Pale Ale. Now, those crafting such uber-regional libations will have another source for their hops—ZP Growers. Organic growers who started out with avocados and citrus fruits in 2011, ZP Growers owners Lyle and Robert Kafader saw the demand for locally grown hops and have since planted over a dozen different varieties in their fertile soil just west of Valley Center. Among those are the highly coveted Cascade, Centennial and Chinook as well as Northern Brewer, Galena, Fuggle and Zeus, all of which are certified organic.

Hop To It San Diego is well known for its potently hoppy beers. Yet, most of the floral cones that lend America’s Finest City’s pale ales and IPAs their trademark fruit notes and bitterness hail from faraway locales such as Washington’s Yakima Valley and New Zealand. With climates that are ideal for growing beery botanicals, these regions will likely always hover atop the hop heap, but brewing beers using local hops is a burgeoning trend among brewers. Each year, Ballast Point Brewing & Spirits specialty brewer Colby Chandler brews San Salvador, a saison made with indigenous ingredients including Nugget hops from Ramona’s Star B Ranch.

The hops are grown on modified, adjustable trellises, making it easy for brewers purchasing them to remove the cones from the vines. Such a harvest occurred in August. Several brewers who came by to reap their resinous harvest returned the following month, bearing and sharing the ambers and double IPAs they brewed with those hops quaffed amid the sounds of live music during a nighttime party celebrating the end of the Kafaders first season in business. As the Kafaders gauge which hops they are best able to cultivate, they will increase the size of their crop and reach out to more breweries. ZP Growers also grows fruits and berries and produces organic honey from local bees. Between that and the hops, these growers are certainly generating lots of buzz. ~ Brandon Hernández winter 2012

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GATHER ROUND BG

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4033 Goldfinch Street • San Diego, CA 92103 8

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Seasonal fruits & vegetables Free-range eggs Local honey Medjool dates • Prepared foods Baked goods Mediterranean foods Dried herbs • Retail merchants

ntee a S

Farmers’ Market Wic, EBT, DEBiT & cREDiT caRDS accEPTED

Wednesday 3 to 7 p.m. spring and summer 3 to 6 p.m. winter 10445 Mission Gorge Road Santee santeefarmersmarket.com


A San Diego native.

Cafe Merlot invites you on a culinary adventure! Forage on 17 acres of ranch and vineyard. Dine from our very own micro farm. We plant, grow and cook to order every meal.

Cooking Classes speCialty events Culinary MeDiCine

www.solarrainwatery.com

13330 paseo del verano norte san Diego, Ca 92128 858.592.7785 • www.cafemerlot.com

Eat me! I’m local. Dine at the docks on the freshest fish in San Diego and support local fishermen. Fresh Local Fish from Local Fishermen Sustainably Caught For daily specials, follow us on facebook

Have fun! Scan this QR code and play our iSpy game for a chance to win reward.

Ocean Sourced Made Locally for Freshness A pure, great-tasting premium drinking water, helping you make San Diego a better place. 1403 Scott Street, San Diego www.mitchsseafood.com

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{To Your Health}

Winterize Your Body Take a tip from nature: Slow down, fuel up

Winter is nature’s resting time. The days are shorter, colder and quieter. Our natural surroundings retreat within the ground and head back to their “roots.” This necessary withdrawal allows nature to recover and relax before the zaniness of spring. Although San Diego’s seasonal changes in the winter are less obvious than other places, it’s still extremely helpful for our bodies to unify with nature. To connect with winter’s energy, we too should seek repose and find some time for restoration and reflection. A conscious departure from our hectic lifestyles and routines allows us to become more aware of our senses and receptive to our needs. In Chinese medicine, winter is the season dominated by the water element. The kidneys and bladder are the organs most connected with the body’s water, and energetically are considered the “roots and foundation of the body.” These organs also provide the nourishment for the bones and musculoskeletal system. Thus, winter becomes a time to restore energy to our

Winter is a time to restore energy to our foundation through nutrition, rest and warmth. 10

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foundation through nutrition, rest and warmth. This conservation supports an internal warmth that guides us physically, emotionally and spiritually. Cultivating this warmth requires winter foods, which provide more heat. Healthy soups, stews and herbal teas provide the warmth our body desires. Simple broths become a nutritious staple for meals or snacks; baked or steamed root vegetables make dishes hearty, and warming spices and seaweed from the ocean add kick and warmth to meals. So what exactly do you include this winter season? Well, soups and stews made from homemade broths are a great place to start. If you are carnivorous, animal broths provide substances from cartilage, bone marrow, amino acids and minerals that can help ward off a winter cold, reduce an inflammation flare-up or help heal a winter sports injury. All you need to make a broth is water, animal bones such as a chicken carcass, celery, a carrot, an onion and some garlic and parsley. This broth is great for afternoon tea or as a stock for future soups and stews. As for the vegetarian option, a stock made from miso is a healthy alternative with similar immune benefits. Including the same winter vegetables will add a tonifying effect and nourishment for the body. In Japan, it’s traditional to drink a cup a day. Since fruits are traditionally less available in the winter, seasonal vegetables are the

best wholefood source for daily vitamins and minerals. Remember to follow nature to its roots and consume what’s in the ground. Carrots, onions, turnips and tubers are all excellent choices to add substance to soups and stews, as they serve as immune boosters and tissue healers and provide internal warmth needed during winter. For an extra kick and added health benefits, don’t forget to include some spices and herbs in your winter meals. Ginger, garlic, fenugreek, scallions, cinnamon and cayenne pepper are nutritious additions to food while juniper berries, flaxseed and nettle are great as tea tonics for the immune system and musculoskeletal system. Another seldomused food with tons of nutrient density is seaweed. Loaded with trace minerals and vitamins, seaweeds of all kinds are welcome additions to any soup, stew, tea or vegetable dish. Their mineral properties make them excellent selections for bone health, mood enhancement and detoxification. A healthy dose of these herbs and spices will turn up the internal temperature and promote a healthy defense and digestive system. Going within and developing warmth through healthy foods, thoughts and practices will prevent illness and rejuvenate our bodies. So relax at home, make a stew and reflect on what truly brings you warmth this winter. Adam Fuller, L.Ac., CSCS is a licensed acupuncturist and certified strength and conditioning coach. He is the owner of Thrive Wellness, a wellness clinic that focuses on balancing health, stress-reduction and activity through acupuncture, massage, fitness, nutrition and psychology.


Give organi c. c a o l l . e Giv Give fresh.

GIF T

O FF E R I NG

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SUZIE’S CSA GIFT SUBSCRIPTIONS SUZIE’S GOOD FARM BOX GIFT CERTIFICATES MARKET BUCKS & TOUR PASSES

HOLIDAY GIFT OFFERINGS FROM SUZIE'S FARM

We’re Proudly

TH E S E G I F T S A N D MO R E A R E AVA I L A B L E AT

100%

SU ZI ESFAR M . C O M

rich in dietary fiber • rich in potassium • rich in minerals calcium, manganese, copper, and magnesium • excellent sou

ne, lutein, and zeaxanthin protection against

How about a date? Morocco Gold dates

Raw, organically and sustainably farmed* Medjool dates Incredibly delicious and good for you! Grown in Imperial County and sold at San Diego farmers’ markets for 14 years. Find us at Santee Certified Farmers’ Market Or call 619-449-8427 for locations near you. *Uncertified but organic practices followed

rce of iron • contain flavonoid polyphenolic a

age related macular degeneration

MARKET BAGS, T-SHIRTS & FUN MERCH!

ntioxidants • anti-infective, anti-inflammatory, and anti-hemorrhagic properties • good source of vitamin-a • rich in antioxidant flavonoids such as beta-carote

San Diego Grown Exchange—connecting local producers with commercial buyers San Diego growers and food service pros hook up at www.sandiegogrown.com. Developed by the San Diego County Farm Bureau and funded by the County of San Diego Healthy Works Project, this website makes it easy for buyers and sellers to sign up, sign on, and do business.

s an diego g row n .co m

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{Local Talent}

Savoring Spread: Colorful Comfort Cuisine Story by Britta Turner Photos by Chris Rov Costa

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A

golden light spills upon the sidewalk in front of Spread, a neighborhood food haven nestled along North Park’s University Avenue. Owners Robin and Andrew Schiff have opened their doors to customers for over 10 years, welcoming diners into the warmth of their modern, simply decorated lounge to partake in a constantly evolving offering of 100% locally sourced vegetarian fare and curious cocktail concoctions.

Quiet leaders of the local food movement, Robin and Andrew source the entirety of their ingredients from weekly farmers’ markets and their own personal garden, located on site.

Quiet leaders of the local food movement, Robin and Andrew source the entirety of their ingredients from weekly farmers’ markets and their own personal garden, located on site. As growing seasons fluctuate, both Robin and Andrew share the role of artist and chef, demonstrating a high level of innovative mastery with regard to menu design. The way colors structured on a plate can evoke emotions the same as any other art form suggests there is a deeper experience to food. Enjoying a meal encompasses more than what you taste in your mouth. It includes what you see, smell and feel as you sit at your table. Through vested relationships with local farms like Smit Orchards, Schaner Farms and JR Organics, Robin and Andrew ensure the quality of the products they use and directly support San Diego’s expanding local food economy. They’ve been having farmers grow specific crops for their menu for over 10 years, so they know what to expect and can choose more interesting and flavorful varieties of produce. This relationship leaves farmers and their clients dependent on one another for survival. Pure synergy. “Every morning, we’re at the farmers’ markets or at farms nearby picking out our ingredients for that night’s dinner. For us that’s really the crux of our creative process. We run across some gorgeous vegetables and we base a dish around them. Simple and effective,” says Robin.

They harvest the remainder of their ingredients directly from their personal garden: fresh leafy salad greens, fragrant herbs like thyme and basil and seasonal vegetables like squash, tomatoes, lettuces and edible flowers. Their dishes are peppered with bright bursts of color that make every meal an inspiring, lively experience. There is no limit to the range of taste or cuisine. Andrew and Robin want guests to leave feeling satiated, yet not full, by offering lighter, more nourishing dishes using quality ingredients. Unlike many vegan restaurants, Spread avoids using soy-based foods or any processed products.

“I have access to the best of the best when it comes to ingredients, so I choose to not compromise quality and nutrition for overprocessed, uninteresting ingredients,” says Robin. They are also exploring whether it is viable to forage and trade for raw ingredients, establishing working relationships with friends, neighbors and growers around the neighborhood. In October of this year, Spread announced a new happy hour menu consisting of herbal infused cocktails with rare fruits and herbs featured alongside their unconventional nightly menu. The basilinfused sangria and the sweet-tart Blackberry Lemondrop lift your spirit and whet your taste buds. But drinks aren’t necessarily Spread’s forte. Aside from their popular array of spreadable delicacies, luscious salads are what Robin and Andrew hope draw the busy lunch crowds in and around North Park. They are working on debuting a lunch menu in 2013, for which Robin intends to serve a variety of handpicked greens, layered with seasonal vegetables and exquisite flavor affinities—dishes that are appropriate for take-out or dine-in. Spread: 2879 University Avenue San Diego, CA 92104 (619) 543-0406

Spicy Garlic Edamame Homemade Togarashi (Japanese chile seasoning)

1 pound fresh edamame (soybean) pods 2 tablespoons raw olive oil or butter

1 teaspoon fresh garlic

3 cloves garlic, diced

1 teaspoon dried lemon peel

Coarse sea salt (to taste)

2 teaspoons black sesame seeds

Homemade togarashi, to taste (recipe follows)

2 teaspoons red chile flakes

Cook edamame in salted boiling water for 2–5 minutes, until tender. Drain and set aside. Heat olive oil or butter in a medium pan over high heat. Add garlic and cook for 3–5 minutes, until fragrant. Remove from heat. In a large bowl, toss edamame with oil mixture, sea salt and homemade togarashi until coated. Serve and enjoy immediately!

2 teaspoons nori flakes 1 teaspoon black pepper 1 teaspoon dried parsley 1 teaspoon salt 2 Arbol chiles Combine all ingredients and grind in a food processor until fine. Store in an airtight container at room temperature. winter 2012

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Baby Beet Cauliflower Risotto with Sweet Corn 1 head cauliflower, chopped 2 teaspoons olive oil 2–3 baby beets, steamed, skin removed, diced into small cubes 2 tablespoons chopped garlic 1 sweet corn cob, kernels only 2 tablespoons vegan aioli (recipe follows) ¼ cup saffron almond “cream” (recipe follows) 1 teaspoon cracked pepper Sea salt, to taste Zest of one lemon Anyone can make a tasty rice risotto, so we’ve upped the ante and replaced the rice with cauliflower. In a food processor, pulse cauliflower until it has the consistency, size, and texture of rice. Set aside. Heat olive oil in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Add beets, garlic and sweet corn and sauté for 2–3 minutes. Mix in the cauliflower “rice,” then stir in aioli, almond cream, pepper and salt. The beets will impart a pink hue to the dish. Taste intermittently and season with salt and pepper to taste. Add lemon zest and stir, adding more cream and/or aioli depending on personal preference. Serve immediately.

Saffron Almond Cream 1 cup raw, unpasteurized almonds 4 to 4½ cups pure, filtered water 12 threads saffron (approximately, but you can add more) Note: Food processor, cheesecloth and a fine mesh strainer are required. Place almonds and 3 cups of water in a sealable container. Seal and allow to sit at room

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temperature overnight. Drain the water from the almonds and put almonds in a food processor with the remaining water. Grind until mixture has a slurry-like consistency. Fold cheesecloth into a square and fit it over a strainer, then place strainer over a bowl. Place saffron threads in bottom of bowl. Place a fist-sized amount of almond mix in the middle of the cheesecloth and squeeze out the liquid through the cheesecloth and the strainer. Dispose of leftover dry almond meal and repeat. Stir saffron around in almond cream and set aside. The almond cream will be good for over a week, and can be diluted with water to make almond milk.

Vegan Aioli 5 cloves garlic, whole 1 cup olive oil 2–3 tablespoons mild Dijon mustard 2 tablespoons diced onion ½ of a lemon ½ teaspoons sea salt Place garlic cloves in food processor and chop for about a minute. Add olive oil slowly, dripping a very slight stream into the garlic and keeping the motion constant. Do not stop the food processor at any point during the process! After a minute or so, add the mustard. Wait a minute, then add the onion. After a few minutes, the aioli should thicken up—if it doesn’t after 6–7 minutes of nonstop motion, add another teaspoon of mustard. Add lemon and salt. Store in the refrigerator (it’ll last a week or so).


PB&B Wonton Tower Makes 1 serving Olive oil 3 wonton wrappers (purchased or handmade, recipe follows) Salt, to taste 3 tablespoons dark chocolate peanut spread 1 banana, sliced Honey or agave syrup 1 nasturtium leaf or flower (optional) Pour enough oil into a small saucepan to immerse wonton wrappers. Leave them whole and unblemished and turn heat to high so that they fry to a golden brown. Carefully pull wonton squares from oil and sprinkle with salt. Place one wonton

wrapper on a serving plate. Spread 1 tablespoon chocolate peanut butter spread on the wonton, and place several banana slices on top. Add second wonton layer, and repeat with spread and bananas. Add third wonton wrapper and repeat again. Drizzle stack with honey or agave syrup and garnish with an edible nasturtium leaf or flower.

Wonton Wrappers 2 cups flour (your choice, we use a mixture of buckwheat & almond) ½ teaspoon salt ½ cup warm water Sift together flour and salt in a bowl. Slowly stir in water. Dough will be stiff. Knead dough on floured surface until smooth, about 15 minutes. Cover with a towel and let stand for 20 minutes. Roll about half of the dough out as thin as you can and cut into about 32 3-inch squares. Repeat for other half of dough.

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{Giving Back}

Big checks and smiles say it all… almost We pulled it off with a lot of help and good will It was quite a rollercoaster ride but while we walked away still trying to catch our breath and with very shaky legs, we are happy with the final outcome. Our first Edible San Diego Eat Drink Local Week was a success (a few disappointments and near disasters nothwithstanding) and we are thrilled to have been able to make donations to our three nonprofit beneficiaries. This experience gave us a renewed appreciation for our big-hearted food community. If our sponsors and contributors had not stepped up to help us create great events and a solid financial base, we would not have succeeded. So while we went out on a limb to launch Eat Drink Local Week, the kudos must be shared with our sponsors and contributors. We had volunteers who made all the difference, too. Heartfelt thanks to Danica and Paul Merrifield, Marilyn Mirrasoul, L.J Livingston, Carolyn Kates, Mary Helmick Abbey, Kelly Davenport, Julie Darling, Chris Rov Costa, Max Abbey, Lhasa Landry, Jordanna Petkun and Jim Weiner. Truth is, we learned a lot along the way. If hard knocks are the best teachers, we are definitely smarter now. And we’re looking forward to cooking up a better, smarter, more successful week of events next year.

THANK YOU! Catalina Offshore Products Inn at the Park Jazz 88.3

SPONSORS Jsix Sadie Rose Baking Co.

Specialty Produce TAJ Farms Whole Foods Market

RESTAURANT SPONSORS Alchemy Leroy’s Kitchen + Lounge Tender Greens Blue Ribbon Artisan Pizzeria Local Habit The Craftsman New American Tavern Cafe Merlot El Q’ero Restaurant The Fishery Carnitas’ Snack Shack Restaurant at The Pearl The Linkery Cups Organic Saltbox The Lion’s Share El Take It Easy SBicca The Red Door and Wine Bar Farm House Café Sea Rocket Bistro The Tractor Room Healthy Creations SOL Bistro The Wellington Jeremy’s on the Hill Starlite Jsix Restaurant Stone World Bistro & Gardens Barn & Butter Bird Rock Coffee Roasters Cafe Virtuoso Caffé Calabria California Fruit Wine Carruth Cellars Carslbad Aquafarm Caxao Chuao Chocolatier Coffee & Tea Collective Coronado Brewing Co.

CONTRIBUTORS Cups Organic David Bacco Chocolatier Eclipse Chocolat Green Truck Hellanback Ranch & Vineyard Hess Brewing Lightning Brewery Manzanita Brewing Co. The MeatMen Miss Sushi San Diego Mission Brewery Ocean Beach Seafood

Pubcakes Ramona Ranch Cactus Star Vineyards at Scaredy Cat Ranch Societe Brewing Co. Solar Rain South Coast Winery Stone Brewing Co. Triple B Ranches Urban Fresh Delivery Vesper Vineyards

Facing page: scenes from our week of events. Photos by Chris Rov Costa

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THE FISHERY Wild Fish ~ Local Farms

FRESH, HEALTHY & DELICIOUS

Open Daily Lunch & Dinner

Sunday Brunch 5040 Cass St Pacific Beach CA 92109 858.272.9985

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4080 Centre Street, Suite 202 / San Diego, CA 92103 / 619.795.4422

Boat to throat Field to fork sustainable • local • just plain good 7091 el cajon blvd • www.terrasd.com • 619.293.7088 18

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Be Wise Ranch Pioneering organics has proved to be a smart move By Vincent Rossi Photos by Chris Rov Costa

I

’m looking at a sea of cherry tomatoes, filling a long table in the packinghouse at Be Wise Ranch. Be Wise Ranch General Manager Sandra Broussard is taking me along as she makes her rounds. Soon, she tells me, workers will begin sorting and packing the little tomatoes into plastic clamshell containers bearing the Be Wise Ranch logo. It’s a logo that’s become very familiar to consumers

who shop in local stores like Jimbo’s, Whole Foods or my neighborhood Barons Market, as well as to CSA subscribers from all over San Diego County and to wholesalers across the country. The packinghouse is 10,000 square feet and a couple of stories in height, but inside it’s remarkably quiet. Broussard and the other workers talk in conversational tones as they go about their business. Conveyor belts

and a forklift about the size of a riding lawn mower make little noticeable noise. In between conversations with other employees, Broussard tells me that other than the conveyor belts, forklift and tractors used in the fields, “We do everything by hand.” Broussard introduces me to Foreman Luisa Ramirez, with whom she talks briefly about coordinating customer orders winter 2012

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(“Remember, the driver for Whole Foods is coming at 1 o’clock. He needs heirloom tomatoes….”). She then turns back to me and describes how her job has given her a special feeling about food. “I get to see it grow from a seed to a plant to the table,” she says. Then she is all business again, saying, “Excuse me while I put out a fire,” as she looks at her cell phone. After she turns back to me, I remark what a tight schedule they are on with all these perishable items. “Pretty much everything that comes in I move out the same day or the next,” says Broussard. Founded in 1977, Be Wise Ranch is arguably the oldest organic farm in San Diego County and, according to owner Bill Brammer, “the only totally organic farm in the San Pasqual Agricultural Preserve.” Brammer, who grew up in the San Fernando Valley, was working nights at the post office while attending college during the day on a golf scholarship. He majored in business and 20

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His philosophical and business skills have meshed well in a business that has survived in the marketplace while grounded in a basically humanistic philosophy: providing people with sustainably grown food free of artificial additives and chemicals. philosophy. “I was good at logic and good at math,” he says now, grinning. What really captured his interest, however, was growing plants. Still, it could be argued that his philosophical and business skills have meshed well in a business that has survived in the marketplace while grounded in a basically humanistic philosophy: providing people with sustainably grown food free of artificial additives and chemicals. His first venture was growing peaches and other stone fruits on 20 leased acres in the 4S Ranch area. He hoped to create a niche market but wound up losing most of his crop to deer and other wildlife. He then planted

most of the land in avocado and citrus, because “they were the only crops the bank would finance.” Brammer also planted three-quarters of an acre in tomatoes. He calls that crop “the turning point.” For one thing, the wildlife avoided them, and there was regular demand for them. They became one of his steady crops, in rotation with squash and cucumbers. “As I grew different crops I realized what would work. You better figure out where you’re gonna sell it before you plant it.” Brammer used the profits from the tomatoes to rent more land in the hills above Rancho Santa Fe and in the San Pasqual Valley. He cites J. I. Rodale and Rachel Carson as important influences on his thinking. “I’ve never taken an ag class,” Brammer says. In fact, when he first started farming, his inquiries about organic methods at UC Davis and the US Department of Agriculture were greeted with incredulousness. At both places, Brammer says, he was literally told to “forget about organic farming as a commercial enterprise, that we’d starve.”


When he first started farming, his inquiries about organic methods at UC Davis and the US Department of Agriculture were greeted with incredulousness. At both places he was literally told to “forget about organic farming as a commercial enterprise, that we’d starve.” Fortunately, a growing grassroots movement of small farmers and consumers helped to turn organic farming into a commercial reality. Brammer played an active role in the movement. From 1990 to 1995 he served as state president of California Certified Organic Farmers (CCOF). He was also a founding member in 1990 of the Organic Farming Research Foundation (OFRF), which promotes educational programs, research and government policies favoring organic family farms. Brammer served on OFRF’s board for 10 years. He started out selling to local health food stores and farmers’ markets. Then he moved into selling wholesale to distributors across the country. However, a strong desire to offer

organic produce directly to local consumers led Brammer to start a CSA in 1994. The number of Be Wise Ranch CSA subscribers has grown from 600 in 2007 to almost 3,000 today. The farm delivers to almost 50 drop sites, from central San Diego city to beach, north coastal, north inland and east county communities. They offer 25 varieties of fruits and vegetables. Seasonal offerings include avocados, green beans, kale and strawberries. Fresh herbs, beets and oranges are among the produce available year-round. Brammer says that today 30% of his produce goes to CSAs, 20% to 30% to local stores and 40% to wholesalers. “Farmers’ markets and CSAs give small growers a chance,” he says. His website credits “a team of dedicated workers, many of whom have been with us since we started farming in 1977.” He also pays tribute to his wife, Marsanne, whom he married five years after starting the farm. “She was a great help in developing the business ideas and personnel management as she finished her PhD in English literature at UCSD. She was understanding of me having to work six days a week and 10 to 12 hours a day for many years and having to invest all of the profits each year to keep expanding the farm.” Be Wise Ranch’s continued growth has come amid some serious challenges. One was loss of leased land to development pressures. “By 2005 we were farming 900 acres before we lost the big lease where the houses on Del Sur are currently being built out,” says Brammer. “So now we plant 160 acres in San Pasqual and another 15 in the coastal belt.” Then came the 2007 Witch Creek Fire, which burned Bill and Marsanne’s home to the ground, along with doing serious damage to their crops. “It was the only week we didn’t ship,” he says,

indicating they’ve been shipping on schedule ever since. “Quality is the key,” Brammer says of his operation. He talks of the advantages of hand-picking crops on issues like food safety. “We hand-pick our spring mix lettuces compared to larger farms that have machines that cut the whole bed like a lawn mower.” Such industrial methods make it easier for contaminants like animal droppings to be cut and mixed with the lettuces, Brammer says. “We can hand-pick around such a problem,” he says. “We can see the problem and not pick leaves close by. You need to have intelligence out there that knows [when something is bad and shouldn’t be harvested].” “We have obviously demonstrated a proven food safety record for 35 years and we should not be mandated the same as the larger, mechanized farms. I think food safety is very important, which is why we devote so much time and effort into our successful program.” Be Wise Ranch 20505 San Pasqual Road Escondido, CA 92025 760-746-6006 BeWiseRanch.com Freelance writer Vincent Rossi is the author of three books on San Diego County history: From Field To Town: Chronicles of North County History, Valleys of Dreams and The Lost Town of Bernardo. He has also written for newspapers, magazines and online venues. He and his wife Peggy own StorySeekers, a research and publishing company for family history, memoir and historical books. His special interests are history, politics and culture. winter 2012

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World Class Wine Unforgettable Experiences

One of San Diego County’s best kept secrets is the growing number of world class, award winning wineries and tasting rooms in the San Diego foothills. We offer many of your favorite varietals as well as those unique to the region. To learn more about the emerging wineries, visit ramonavalleywineregion.com Please come share an experience of warmth, family and unforgettable ambiance.

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Local, sustainably raised beef. Good for you. Good for the planet. Raised on pasture and organic crop forage, alfalfa, and wheat grasses. Single-order beef packages: Buy in sampler, eighth-beef, quarter-beef, half-beef and whole-beef quantities. CSA shares: Join for 12 months or 6 months in 5-lb,10-lb or 20-lb quantities. Delivered to convenient pick-up locations. Farmers' Markets: Come to Hillcrest, Little Italy, and Riverside farmers markets to pick up single servings.

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H

igh in the Rocky Mountains snow is falling. Powder gathers in drifts and builds in clumps on evergreen boughs. Hundreds of miles to the west, a similar storm is blowing snow across the rocky tops of Sierra Nevada peaks and coating alpine valleys in white. In the upper reaches of the Rockies and the Sierra our reservoirs are filling.

Where does our water come from? The short answer is precipitation. The answer gets longer when the question lengthens­—when you ask not only where it came from but also how it got to you and why it’s important. La Poudre Pass lies at an elevation of 10,184 feet in the Rocky Mountains, 60 miles northwest of Denver, Colorado. La Poudre Pass—pronounced “la pooder” by locals—straddles the Continental Divide, the geographic line separating the Pacific and Atlantic watersheds, and forms the headwaters of the Colorado River. If you live in San Diego County, over half of the water spilling from your faucet began its journey to you there.

San Diego County imports 70% of its water supply and relies on sources hundreds of miles away.

San Diego’s Life Blood Keeping the water flowing makes farming—and everything else—possible By Casey Anderson

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Snowmelt from distant mountains and rain sloughing down hillsides and filling aquifers is what keeps our crops growing, our lawns green and, most importantly, our thirst slaked. The Sierra Nevada and Rocky Mountains act as the West’s biggest reservoirs. Each year, snowmelt from these mountain ranges combines with rainfall to fill rivers and reservoirs that meet the water needs of not just San Diegans, but between 36 and 40 million other people in California, Colorado, New Mexico, Utah, Wyoming, Arizona, Nevada and Mexico. How does water that falls as rain and snow get to San Diego County farms, businesses and homes clean and ready to drink? This is where the answer gets complex. San Diego County imports 70% of its water supply and relies on sources hundreds of miles away. At a community forum in Vista held on September 18, 2012 Michael Hogan, chairman of the board of directors of the San Diego County Water Authority (SDCWA),


stated the Colorado River provides San Diegans with 55% of their water, the Sacramento Bay Delta 15% and ground water and local surface water the remaining 30%. Soon, desalinated ocean water will be added to this mix. Water conservation and reclamation is another source counted in local supply. From whom does San Diego buy its imported water? The Metropolitan Water District of Southern California (MWD) is a consortium of 26 Southern California cities and water districts that was formed by an act of the state legislature in 1928 to bring new water supplies to Southern California from the Colorado River. MWD constructed and operates the Colorado River Aqueduct, which brings water west across hundreds of miles of arid desert, and is the largest contractor of the State Water Project, which carries water south from the Sacramento Bay Delta in Northern California. MWD distributes water to Ventura, Los Angeles, San Bernardino, Orange, Riverside and San Diego counties. Citrus trees sacrificed because of the price of water. Hillebrecht Farm.

The SDCWA is San Diego’s regional wholesale water supplier. SDCWA contracts and purchases water from MWD, as well as the Imperial Irrigation District, and works to develop new local supply sources. SDCWA sells the water it purchases to retail water agencies throughout the county. SDCWA is composed of 24 member agencies made up of some county cities, water districts, irrigation districts, public utility districts and Camp Pendleton. “Our region has the unique challenge of being at the end of the water supply pipeline,” says Jason Foster, director of public affairs at SDCWA, underlining some of the challenges SDCWA faces as San Diego’s regional water supplier. “Trying to sustain a very large and diverse economy on very meager local water resources, we face a constant challenge from climate change, drought, regulatory restrictions and other factors that can limit imported water supplies that we rely heavily on.” It’s those limiting factors that are the concern. In 1991 California was in the grip of a severe drought. Reservoirs were emptying across the state and on the

Colorado River. SDCWA at the time had two sources of water: purchases from MWD and local supplies. MWD purchases provided 95% of the region’s water while local supplies accounted for only 5%. In response to the drought, MWD cut water deliveries to San Diego County by 31%. Additional planned cutbacks of 50% were only averted by a deluge of rainstorms in March of that year that became known as the “March Miracle” rains. Following the drastic water cutbacks in 1991, SDCWA embarked on a mission that continues today to find and secure new sources of water for San Diego County. Community leaders realized that never again could San Diego be so reliant on water sources that had proved to be so unreliable. Therein lies a key driver of rising water

costs: reliability. Living at the end of the pipeline carries with it an inherent risk of being cut off. San Diegans rely on major aqueducts running for hundreds of miles both east and west, and north and south. In the event of a major earthquake, if one or both aqueducts were severed, where would San Diego turn for water? SDCWA has addressed that question with the Emergency Storage Project, and in the past 10 years has completed multiple new storage projects designed to provide enough water for the San Diego region for up to six months in the event of a major emergency. The costs of those projects are reflected in what you pay for your water. To see a list and details of all the completed projects and their impact on San Diego’s water portfolio, visit the SDCWA website at www.sdcwa.org and click on Projects, Facilities and Operations.

“Trying to sustain a very large and diverse economy on very meager local water resources, we face a constant challenge from climate change, drought, regulatory restrictions, and other factors that can limit imported water supplies that we rely heavily on.” ~ Jason Foster winter 2012

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Over the past decade water prices have risen 140 % and avocado acreage has dropped 32 % from 25,922 acres to 17,673. Without a meaningful differential water price for farmers, the acreage loss will likely accelerate. San Diego County farmers are in a unique position. Men and women whose livelihoods depend entirely on having access to clean water to grow their crops carry a full measure of risk. In the event of disruption in water supply, farmers have given up their right to access those emergency water stores to water their crops. In return, they receive a discount on their water bill of just over $200 per acre foot. One acre foot is equal to 325,853 gallons of water, or the amount two average households of 4 people would use in a year. That $200/AF is the only discount San Diego County farmers see on their water bill. The SDCWA wholesale rate of one acre foot of treated water for 2013 is $1,259. Retail water agencies add their own costs to that number. One acre of avocados requires at least four acre feet of water per year to produce a commercial crop. Think of the water bills farmers are receiving in the mail. Now think of this: over the past decade water prices have risen 140 % and avocado acreage has dropped 32 % from 25,922 acres to 17,673.  Without a meaningful differential water price for farmers, the acreage loss will likely accelerate. Farming is a business and San Diego farmers have often led the charge toward new and innovative ideas in water conservation that simultaneously save water and make good business sense. However, conservation as a tool can only be taken so far before crop returns begin to diminish. “It is critical to make sure we are properly investing in water supplies and projects to insure we will have enough water to support our local ag industry and our overall economy and quality of life,” says Jason Foster. “What makes it extra challenging is that investing in these water supplies projects can be expensive and we have to make sure we are obtaining water reliability as cost effectively as possible.” Visit these sites to learn more about San Diego farming and what water agencies are doing to find and build sustainable water supplies for the San Diego region: San Diego County Farm Bureau: www.sdfarmbureau.org

Casey Anderson is the Membership and Marketing Manager at San Diego County Farm Bureau, a San Diego non-profit organization working to protect and support agriculture. He has held that position since 2007.

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Turkeys ~ Fresh or Smoked! Crown Pork Roast ~ Always a Hit! Tur-duck~ens? Of Course!! ORDER NOW to avoid disappointment! VISIT US AT:

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Handcrafted Wood Pellet Grillss Great Gift For Grillers!

San Diego County Dept. of Agriculture, Weights and Measures: www.sdcounty.ca.gov/awm San Diego County Water Authority: www.sdcwa.org Metropolitan Water District of Southern California: www.mwdh2o.com

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FRESH. LOCAL. SUSTAINABLE Hands-on Cooking Classes

Sushi bar where YOU are! Catering • Foodtruck • Sushi-making Parties www.MissSushiSanDiego.com La Jolla, CA | www.cupsLJ.com/culinary | 858.459.2877

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Photo: Chris Costa

Casa de Luz Where health tops the menu at every meal

T

here’s something wrong with this vegan restaurant—I don’t smell incense. The staff aren’t anemic looking or donning hemp clothing. The decor is modern and sleek. There are no mock chicken salads or soy sausages on the menu. I start to wonder: Is this really a vegan eatery? Turns out there is a lot about Casa de Luz (“house of light”), the 100% organic, vegan, gluten-free restaurant and cooking school in North Park, that is unexpected—starting with its owner, Wayo Longoria. Ten years ago at the age of 28, Longoria was diagnosed with multiple sclerosis (MS). “I tried Western medicine for four or five years but it wasn’t working,” he says. So he began to research Eastern healing philosophies and discovered a strong link between diet and illness. “I wasn’t in the habit of eating healthy foods and taking care of myself,” admits 28

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Longoria, who began his career as a developer of fast-food chains including Papa John’s. He considers MS his “best friend.” “If I was never diagnosed with MS, I would never have changed my life.” “I decided to start using food as my medicine,” Longoria says about his choice to adopt a macrobiotic diet, an Eastern diet rooted in balancing foods for optimal mind and body health. After stints in Europe, including one studying macrobiotics at the Kushi Institute in the Netherlands, Longoria was ready to share his newfound passion with others. “I started this lifestyle change for myself. Then you start thinking about taking care of your family, then your neighbor, then our mutual home: the planet,” he says. That led to opening Casa de Luz in San Diego, the second in the United States. The first Casa was opened by Longoria’s father nearly 25 years ago in Austin, Texas.

By Susan Russo

Longoria purchased the old Salvation Army building on University Avenue in North Park and spent over $3 million renovating it. The space is minimalist modern, featuring reclaimed wood, energyreducing skylights and health-promoting electromagnetic fields underground. Large communal tables invite diners to share conversations and meals. The second floor of the building houses a cooking school intended for both cooking classes and health and wellness classes, including yoga and stress reduction. This past June, Casa de Luz hosted the launch of the Natural Healing and Cooking Program. The program was developed by Gordon Saxe, MD, PhD, and Lauray MacElhern. Saxe, who founded the Center for Integrative Medicine at UCSD, is both the director of research and an associate physician. He is also codirector of the Natural Healing & Cooking


Program with MacElhern, former director of the Cancer Project in Washington, DC, where she examined the role of dietary factors in cancer prevention and survival. The program, in collaboration with Casa de Luz, is based on Saxe’s extensive research on the combined effect of a whole-food, plant-based diet and mindbody stress reduction on the progression of advanced prostate cancer, as well as other cancers including breast and pancreatic. It also borrows from MacElhern’s former healing and cooking program that has been taught in eight countries and in over 60 cities across the United States, reaching over 60,000 people. Together, they designed the Casa de Luz Natural Healing & Cooking Program, the first of its kind. “There is a growing recognition that many of the illnesses [we experience] are diet and lifestyle related, from obesity and diabetes to heart disease to autoimmune conditions and even cancers,” says Saxe.

“There is a growing recognition that many of the illnesses [we experience] are diet and lifestyle related, from obesity and diabetes to heart disease to autoimmune conditions and even cancers,” says Saxe. Of course, you don’t have to take classes to enjoy the benefits of Casa de Luz. You can eat there any day of the week. The menu, which offers breakfast, lunch and dinner, changes daily. True to its communal roots, the meals are set by the chefs each day (so everyone eats the same food). You choose among two soups, two salads and a main dish, priced a la carte. All meals are carefully crafted for optimal nutrition and healing with a balance of fresh fruits and vegetables, legumes, and whole grains. Longoria is committed to a 100% organic approach and is building relationships with local farms such as Suzie’s to source more food locally. He has also installed a system to create alkaline water and composts leftover food.

In his own research, Saxe saw “a slowing or stabilization of advanced prostate cancer in the majority of the men in our program in less than three months.” The classes at Casa de Luz run in eightweek cycles with each three-hour class divided into two hours of instruction and one hour of communal dining. Students learn the art and science of self-healing— how to use food as medicine, reduce stress, become more mindful, embrace exercise and build social relationships. As Saxe says, “We want to teach people how to restore balance and dissolve diseases.” Buoyed by overwhelmingly positive feedback about the classes at Casa de Luz, Saxe and MacElhern are hoping to add more specialized classes such as maternal nutrition, healthy baking, and cooking for diabetes.

Of all the meals, breakfast is the most different from a typical American meal. Greasy hash browns and syrupladen waffles have been replaced with clean, energizing dishes such as homemade amaranth porridge with fresh berries and agave syrup, whole-grain cakes naturally sweetened with raisins, light miso soup and refreshing agua frescas (fruit drinks) in flavors such as pineapple-ginger.

So whether you’re looking to eat more healthfully, learn about nutrition, or simply share a meal with fellow San Diegans, walk into the light at Casa de Luz. You’ll walk away with mind and body nourished. Casa de Luz 2920 University Ave. San Diego, CA 92104 619-501-1200 Visit CasaDeLuz.org for more information and for daily menus. For more information about UCSD’s Center for Integrative Medicine and the Natural Healing & Cooking Program, visit CIM.UCSD.edu. Susan Russo is a San Diego–based food writer, cookbook author and recipe developer. She publishes stories, recipes and photos on her nationally recognized food blog, FoodBlogga (foodblogga. blogspot.com). Susan is a regular contributor to NPR’s Kitchen Window. She also has published several articles and recipes in the magazine Cooking Light and has been selected “Best of the Web” by Saveur. Susan can be reached at susancrusso@gmail.com.

Lunches and dinners are fortifying. Personal favorites include a gingered beet and sweet potato soup and cucumber, pineapple, daikon radish and cilantro salad. Main entrees are inspired. Consider one I had recently: sautéed squash and mango with avocado lime sauce, collards with cactus beet sauce, and red rice and carrots served with pinto beans, corn and cilantro, and pickled cucumbers. The desserts defy logic. The cold, creamy raw berry “cheesecake” with nut crust is 100% gluten and dairy free

Photo: Chris Costa

Saxe acknowledges that genetics play a major role in our health but also asserts that many scientific studies have showed the direct connection between wholefood, plant-based diets and the reversal of illness. For example, “Diabetes will begin to reverse in three weeks of [patients] changing their diets,” says Saxe.

and 100% scrumptious. Pair it with Casa’s organic teas, wine or French press coffees.

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The Vegetarian Holiday Table By Caron Golden Photos by Chris Rov Costa

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L

isa Altmann, owner of Viva Pops, has been a vegetarian for 17 years. While she grew up eating a lot of meat, especially when dining at fine restaurants with her parents, once she made the emotional connection between her love of animals and food, she couldn’t turn it off and gave up meat.

to contrast with the creamy, earthy and sweet flavors of the squash.” And, she adds, “stuffed vegetables are a hit for presentation and the combinations are endless.”

“For instance,” she says, “grilled eggplant with sautéed shiitake mushrooms, goat cheese and tomato jus with herbs.”

And don’t skimp on the good stuff—rich cheeses, chestnuts, morels and chanterelles, even truffles—says Mary Kay Waters of Waters Fine Catering. “My thing is to splurge a little for the holidays. Just because you don’t eat meat doesn’t mean you can’t still indulge in culinary treats.”

Chef Ricardo Heredia of Alchemy emphasizes the importance of using what is in season. “Fall is all about greens, root vegetables, pumpkins and squashes, wonderful citrus fruits, apples, pears and You might think that preparing large holiday persimmons. I’m not a fan of fake meats meals for family and friends might trip so I like to use grains to her up, but no. Tradition add flavor. Also, contrast for Altmann is the idea of If you’re vegetarian or textural elements of dishes celebrating a meal with family have vegetarian guests, to put them in the forefront and friends and making it rather than have a table full your own—it’s not about the don’t try to make things of side dishes. Stuffed acorn specific dishes served. And taste like something else. squash with quinoa, Swiss Altmann’s dishes are not the least traditional. As chef Susan Sbicca, now chard tamales and parsnip au gratin are all dishes that “One year I had a vegetarian a vegan, says, “You’ll never can stand up proudly to any Mexican Thanksgiving with see Tofurky in my house.” turducken.” goat cheese enchiladas and Many of these dishes above sweet potatoes,” she recalls. work well as main courses. Build around “For Christmas it was roasted vegetable and them with complementary salads. butternut squash lasagna. It could be stuffed peppers. I don’t try to substitute the turkey or “I love making salads with all the ham and then have mashed potatoes.” wonderful things that are in season,” Altmann says. “One of my favorites is And that’s a point many chefs have made. If greens with gorgonzola, toasted hazelnuts, you’re vegetarian or have vegetarian guests, persimmon slices, cranberries and a don’t try to make things taste like something pomegranate vinaigrette.” else. As chef Susan Sbicca, now a vegan, says, “You’ll never see Tofurky in my house.” Saffron’s Su-Mei Yu loves to incorporate noodles—cold or hot—on the holiday Designing the Meal table. “You can mix wheat, rice or glass Sbicca notes that many people are noodles with greens to make an interesting used to composing courses much like dish,” she says. “Yes, this is root vegetable nonvegetarians: a main course of protein, a season, but in San Diego we have all starch and a vegetable. But, she points out, sorts of great greens, plus eggplants, the beauty of vegetarian courses is being pomegranates, avocados and cauliflower able to focus on just one or two primary of different colors. All of them can be vegetables and back them up with flavors transformed and combined with noodles that enhance. or grains to make a festive looking dish.”

Keep it simple, she adds. “It’s very easy for cooks to combine so many vegetables on a plate that it gets messy in terms of flavor. Try a stuffed acorn squash with a simple vegetable medley or grain with bright flavors

Top: Vegetable galette by Chef Steve Ferguson of Waters Fine Catering Center: Potato latkes Bottom: Chocolate Christmas log by Karen Krasne of Extraordinary Desserts

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“My thing is to splurge a little for

For Waters, that could mean a gorgeous puffy to a range of tastes and diets without the holidays. Just because you cheese soufflé as the meal’s centerpiece, or a having to deal with traditional holiday truffle mac ’n’ cheese or an omelet roulade expectations. don’t eat meat doesn’t mean filled with spinach and roasted peppers. Even • Family-style dishes allow for a variety of you can’t still indulge in culinary a root vegetable pot pie spiked with truffles, options that guests can pick and choose with a rich sauce made from root vegetable treats.” ~ Mary Kay Waters from. Include a range of choices from stock. And Waters and cookbook author Jill lighter salads to heavier entreés made O’Connor both suggest sautéed or roasted with potatoes and corn so the meal is vegetables snuggled rustically in phyllo packages—which have the filling and hearty. additional benefit of being able to be made in advance and frozen before cooking. O’Connor wraps each portion individually with a big • If making a lot of salads and vegetable dishes, mix in ingredients fluffy knot of phyllo on top, and uses olive oil instead of butter when like cheeses and nuts to make them heartier. Accompany them cooking for vegans. with sides like bruschetta, do-it-yourself garlic bread or flatbread— some of which can be gluten-free. The idea boils down to having a holiday feast that highlights a few main dishes with side dishes and salads to complement them. As • There are lots of great mock turkey or meat items—or tofu—that Altmann says, “I don’t like going to people’s homes and they tell can be added to a main dish, like a stir fry. me I can eat the side dishes. I might want to eat something more • Finish up with a variety of desserts that include something than mashed potatoes.” chocolaty, something light with fresh fruit, something vegan and And what about Hanukkah? From personal experience, even as an something gluten-free. Not only will you have delicious options for omnivore, I can say this is easy. Even for meat eaters, Hanukkah is people with varied dietary restrictions, but you’ll have a stunning all about the latkes, or fried potato pancakes. Nobody pays much display on your holiday table. attention to anything else so focus on the pancakes and you’ll be a Heredia adds that it’s important to prepare as much as you can hero. You could make a latke bar with traditional pancakes, curried ahead of time. “I like to start three days prior with washing and sweet potato, zucchini or, as Su-Mei Yu suggests, bitter greens, taro breaking down my veggies, cooking off my grains, and preparing or green onion pancakes. Serve a variety of sauces, along with sour dough for bread and pies. cream (or crème fraiche) and applesauce. Add some green salads and you’ve got a great holiday meal, sans meat. “I don’t know about you,” he says, “but I like to relax on holidays and

A Strategy for the Evening

enjoy my company and good wine. Isn’t that what it’s all about?”

Karen Krasne, owner of Extraordinary Desserts, may be known for her sweets, but she’s a trained chef and vegetarian who entertains regularly. She has five tips for hosting a vegetarian holiday meal, from apps to dessert:

Caron Golden is an award-winning freelance writer and the author of the blog San Diego Foodstuff. She writes the Local Bounty column for San Diego Magazine, and has contributed to Saveur, Culinate, Sunset, the Los Angeles

• Go heavy on the hors d’oeuvres and stretch out the cocktail hour. It’s a great way to offer a variety of flavors and options to appeal

For two delicious vegetarian entreé recipes, go to ediblesandiego.com • Vegetable Pot Pie by Mary Kay Waters of Waters Fine Catering • Grilled Vegetable Ratatouille Croustade by Jill O’Connor, San Diego-based food writer and cookbook author.

Times, and many others.

Blood Orange & St-Germain Sorbet 10 cups of blood orange juice 3 cups of granulated sugar 2 cups of St-Germain liqueur Heat the juice and sugar in a sauce pan until the sugar is dissolved. Let cool. Add the St-Germain. Chill and then put into an ice cream maker. Recipe contributed by Lisa Altmann of Viva Pops. ilovevivapops.com 34

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{Why Bother}

The Illusion of Genetically Modified Food Safety U

nlike in most of the industrialized world, in the United States there has been very little public interest in genetically modified (GM) food plants. This is largely due to the ability of large biotechnology companies to control the discussion via their unprecedented influence in both the news media and government agencies.

By David Schubert, PhD

The initial introduction of Bt* corn and cotton and herbicide-resistant soy was a boon to the factory farms because these crops reduced labor requirements. However, there have been no increases in yields and no net savings to farmers or customers because the proprietary seeds and necessary chemicals are more expensive. Meanwhile, insect predators have become resistant to Bt toxin, and weeds resistant to the common herbicide. The result is a massive increase in the amount of herbicide and insecticide use relative to pre-GM cropping and a proportional increase in exposure to consumers. A recent study in France has shown that the most common herbicide causes cancer in rats.

Because of the resulting lack of clarity on GM-related issues, my goal here is to debunk a few dishonest statements made by the proponents of GM foods and to identify much more problematic GM products that are now entering our food supply. The first falsehood is that GM food plants are thoroughly tested by the US Food and Drug Administration (FDA). The fact is that the FDA requires no safety testing. The FDA created the illusion that GM foods pass rigorous safety testing protocols similar to those required for medicines and cosmetics when GM legislation was first drafted. But the health risks of all GM plants are unknown. The consumer is participating in the clinical trial. Furthermore, GM proponents frequently make the false claim that “since we have been eating GM-based foods for 15 years and there is no evidence of harm, the product is safe.� This is an absurd statement. If a GM-based food did indeed cause an illness it could not be detected because of the technical limitations of identifying any increase in a disease within the background of the disease in the population. This problem is compounded by the lack of GM food labeling. Childhood autism has recently been increasing at a rate that 38

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cannot be explained. GM foods or the toxic herbicides associated with their production cannot be ruled out as a contributing factor.

It should be noted that the Bt toxins and much of the herbicide are retained by the plants and are therefore eaten by consumers. Bt toxins can attack the cells lining the gut and herbicides can kill intestinal bacteria. Both are intimately involved in our immune systems and therefore in our overall health.

This is a futile battle with nature in which the only winner is biotech. The ultimate losers are the consumer, our farmlands and the environment.

Bt toxins and herbicides also degrade the soil, as they kill beneficial organisms. In an attempt to overcome the resistance problem, biotechnology companies have recently introduced plants that produce much greater amounts of Bt toxins and plants that are resistant to more toxic herbicides than those in current use. This is a futile battle with nature in which the only winner is biotech. The ultimate losers are the consumer, our farmlands and the environment.


The FDA created the illusion that GM foods pass rigorous safety testing protocols similar to those required for However, as a medical research introduction of a second cycle medicines and cosmetics when GM legislation scientist, I am most concerned with of even more toxic plants and the next generation of GM foods. chemicals. was first drafted. But the health risks of all These are the so-called nutritionally In addition, nutritionally enhanced GM plants are unknown. The consumer enhanced plants (NEPs). Because plant products are entering our food nothing resulting from GM technology is participating in the supply with no safety testing and a great to date has benefited the consumer, potential for harm. There is no way to clinical trial. the industry is looking for new ways to promote its technology. To do this they are using genetic engineering to increase in plants the amounts and kinds of compounds that are widely recognized as having nutritional value. Among the first of this group are rice making elevated amounts of beta-carotene, the precursor to vitamin A, and soy producing more omega-3 fatty acids, a widely used food supplement. From a medical point of view, these types of GM plants present an even greater health risk than those currently on the market. Unlike plants producing Bt toxins and proteins for herbicide resistance, NEPs are designed to produce a product that is biologically active in humans. Because of the manner in which genes are inserted into plants, it is certain that molecules besides the desired products are going to be made. In the case of enhanced beta-carotene production, potential side products are various retinoids, which can be exceptionally toxic and are known to cause birth defects.

My area of scientific expertise is the brain. Minute amounts of specific retinoids are required for normal brain development; too little or too much can be lethal. We also know that aberrant fatty acid composition of the brain is associated with Alzheimer’s disease, and that the fatty acid composition of the brain is dictated by diet because dietary fatty acids are directly incorporated into brain lipids. Any ingestion of nonnatural fatty acids has the potential to seriously damage the brain. Since there is no mandatory safety testing of any of these products, the consumer has no way of knowing the health risk of any NEP. In summary, the current crops of Bt corn and herbicide-resistant soy have had no benefit for the consumer and their introduction has greatly increased our exposure to toxic herbicides and insecticides. Indeed, since these crops have led to increased levels of Bt-toxinresistant insects and herbicide-resistant weeds, they are currently failing in farms throughout the world, leading to the

determine if any of these plant products are safe to eat after they are introduced into the marketplace, and any disease caused by them may take decades to manifest. Therefore there should be a far greater will in the United States to demand an end to this massive genetic engineering experiment until the government has the wisdom to demand that the product be tested for safety before it is introduced into the food supply. David Schubert is a professor at the Salk Institute for Biological Studies. * Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) is a spore-forming bacterium that produces protein crystals which are toxic to many species of insects. Bt corn has been genetically modified to contain Bt protein. FOR FURTHER READING: “Environmental Effects of Genetically Modified Food Crops— Recent Experiences.” Margaret Mellon, Ph.D., J.D.; Jane Rissler, Ph.D., Union of Concerned Scientists, 2012. http://bit.ly/SuM5MA “Does GMO Corn Really Cause Tumors in Rats?” Tom Philpott, Mother Jones, Sep 21, 2012. http://bit.ly/R4HRwL “Public Research, Private Gain: Corporate Influence Over University Agricultural Research.” Food and Water Watch, April 2012. http:// bit.ly/MEWMwE “Genetically Engineered Crops and Pesticide Use In The United States: USDA Survey Data.” Dr. Charles M. Benbrook. http://bit. ly/dCo3ot

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{Liquid Assets}

A Hell of a Whiskey from Ballast Point Story and photos by John Alongé Traditionally, the “angels’ share” is a poetic descriptor for the portion of wine or spirits aging in barrels that is inevitably lost to evaporation. The Devil’s Share single malt whiskey is something else entirely, the brainchild of local distiller Yuseff Cherney, co-founder of San Diego’s Ballast Point Brewing Company. Why would a successful brewer want to start distilling spirits, you might ask? “I had already had the passion for distilling for quite a while,” says Cherney. “I wanted to be the first one to do it commercially in San Diego—to start a trend, not follow it.” So Yuseff set out to educate himself on the art of making quality spirits, reading everything he could find on the subject and attending distilling classes at the American Distilling Institute. Before long, with the help of some talented friends, he had fabricated his own 200-gallon stainless steel still from a repurposed beer fermenter. This allowed him to experiment and fine tune his distillation skills. He initially produced gin and white rum, since the “white” spirits can be bottled and sold quickly without having to undergo a long aging process, helping cash flow for the overall project. He knew all along, however, that his ultimate goal was to produce a unique, barrel-aged, single-malt whiskey from barley. “It was natural to envision making single-malt whiskey, since we were already using barley to brew beer,” Cherney explains. After experimenting with the original stainless steel still, he realized that copper was essential to making a world-class spirit, so he invested in a 500-gallon copper hybrid pot/column still custom fabricated by Vendome Copper & Brass Works in Louisville, Kentucky. The production/aging process is rigorous. “We use only two-row barley brewers’ grain and a proprietary yeast strain, with no filler of any kind,” says Quality Control Manager Nick Cain. The distillate is aged in new American oak barrels with a heavy char (much like those used to age bourbon) for at least three years. The result? This year, Devil’s Share was awarded the Gold Medal, Best of Category, in the Straight Malt Whiskey category at the American Distilling Institute’s sixth annual Judging of Artisan American Spirits. To date, Ballast Point is San Diego’s only commercial distillery. They currently sell vodka, gin and rum through select retailers and restaurants. Devil’s Share is waiting for its new custom bottle mold to be produced and will be released early in the coming year. The 124.8-proof barrel sample that I tried was incredibly rich and smooth with complex brown sugar, vanilla, cinnamon and orange peel aromatics. Definitely world class and definitely worth the wait.

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Bird Rock Coffee Roasters Offers Coffee Like No Other By Leah R. Singer When you walk by Bird Rock Coffee Roasters, located in the La Jolla neighborhood of Bird Rock, you notice a bustling crowd of people gathered outside and within the storefront. While this coffee shop is certainly a neighborhood favorite, many customers do not imagine that their cup of joe represents more than a brewed beverage and conversation. Yet for the coffee company, every cup represents a commitment to San Diego and to farmers outside the United States, as well as a passion for world-class coffee. The seeds for Bird Rock Coffee Roasters were planted when Chuck Patton, then a community college professor, received a gift of a home coffee roaster from his wife. Patton’s hobby soon became a business as he took his bean roasting out of his kitchen and to the Pacific Beach Veterans of Foreign Wars Post in 2002, launching Bird Rock Coffee Roasters. At that point, he delivered roasted beans to customers and sold them at the La Jolla Farmers’ Market. In 2006, the Bird Rock storefront opened its doors.

One of things that sets Bird Rock Coffee Roasters apart is its commitment to supporting individual farmers and agriculture abroad. Bird Rock specializes in direct trade for its coffee, meaning Patton purchases many of Bird Rock’s coffee beans directly from the farmers who grew them. Most coffee companies buy beans through a bean broker that is part of a cooperative. Every roaster who buys from that cooperative has access to the same beans, so no roaster can claim exclusivity. Bird Rock works with several small independent South and Central American farmers, which allows them to feature unique beans that are exclusive to Bird Rock. “Often what happens on the cooperative level is that individual farmers’ beans are mixed in with other farmers’ beans for a generic coffee,” Patton explains. For example, beans from five different Colombian farmers may be grouped together to create a generic Colombian coffee. While Bird Rock does work with some cooperatives and importers, the majority of their beans are from farmers they have built relationships with year after year. “What we wanted to do was be exclusive with the individual farmers for our beans. This helps us showcase the farm and we give credit where it’s due. We buy based on quality over quantity. This also allows us to pay the farmers more for their coffee.” Patton admits that even buying the highest quality of beans won’t guarantee a perfect cup of coffee. The other half of the equation is the roasting process, which is done within the store.

“You can buy the best ingredients in the world, but you need to do the work to assure you are roasting the beans correctly,” says Patton. “The roasting process is not easy. We have to roast the beans enough to taste the nuances.” One of the most rewarding aspects of his work is when customers tell Patton they can distinguish between a Colombian or Guatemalan coffee. “Before coming to our place, they couldn’t tell the difference. This is a testament to our beans and the roasting.” Bird Rock has become a local treasure, with community members meeting at the store regularly for coffee and conversation. Patton believes this starts with the coffee quality. He also thinks the company’s commitment to community (whether it’s local or abroad) resonates with people. Patton—a Bird Rock resident himself—is proud the store has become such a community landmark. What began as a hobby has become a true passion for Patton, who still enjoys finding that perfect bean. “The most exciting part of all this is when you’re sampling all these different beans and you find one that stands out to the point that you say, ‘Now this is something special.’” Leah R. Singer is a writer and marketing strategist who helps nonprofits and small businesses tell their stories. She is passionate about cooking, healthy living, eating high quality and great-tasting foods, and supporting San Diego farmers and businesses. Blog: www. leahsthoughts.com. Twitter (@leahs_thoughts).

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{Liquid Assets}

Societe Brewing Uniting people with beer

Story and photos by Matt Steiger When it comes to beer, San Diego has reached something of a critical mass. Between special releases, new openings and envelope-pushing collaborations, it’s getting harder to stand out from the crowd. Yet in the midst of this excitement, last summer saw the opening of one of the most eagerly anticipated breweries in recent history: Societe Brewing Co. The brewhaha stems from the fact that the founders of Societe Brewing, Doug Constantiner and Travis Smith, come from two of the most popular breweries in the state: The Bruery in Anaheim and Russian River in Santa Rosa. In its short time, Societe has already impressed the local maltoscenti, cranking out a series of popular IPAs to the local beer scene. Societe is so named because Constantiner and Smith believe beer to be the drink of the people. As Constantiner puts it, “Fine wine is expensive; only rich people can afford it. Pliny is arguably the best beer in the world and it only costs $5; anyone can enjoy it. Beer unites everyone!” The brewery focuses on IPAs, Belgians, sours and the occasional stout. The Dandy is a straight-ahead West Coast IPA, with clean citrusy flavor and aroma. The Pupil IPA utilizes a blend of New Zealand hops, resulting in the most incredible aroma: guava, passion fruit, melon and subtle hints of grape. Their Belgians are easy drinking and extremely dry, with subtle fruity/spicy notes. The Butcher Russian Imperial Stout is a solid brew: roasty, viscous and bittersweet.

As for Societe’s “flagship” brews, Constantiner insists they won’t have any. “We change our recipes with every batch. Hops and grains change in flavor and availability. We want to keep evolving, always making our beers better. We hope to eventually bottle our Belgians but we never want to bottle our IPAs.” Those should be enjoyed fresh, hoppy and preferably with friends—rich or poor. Matt Steiger is a physicist, fisherman, home brewer, gardener, forager and wannabe chef. He is always on the lookout for the best produce, fresh fish, great brews and the perfect cup of coffee. Follow him at thefoodlunatic.com, on twitter @foodlunatic or contact him directly at steigey@gmail.

Eat local. Drink local. Read local. 90 beer-inspired recipes — everything from Hefeweizen-Coriander Sea Bass to QuadBraised Osso Buco and IPA Mac-n-Cheese.

The handsome Societe tasting room is located in Kearny Mesa. It affords a view of the temperature-controlled barrel-aging room, where Stag’s Leap Cabernet Sauvignon oak barrels are already holding the first batches of sour ale (to be released late 2013). Constantiner and Smith mix their own blend of bacteria for lacto-fermentation. “We want to re-educate the public about sours,” says Smith. “Everybody wants vinegar but that’s typically a flaw; it should be lactic acid, not acetic.” Constantiner adds, “You’re not looking for salad dressing!” 42

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MOROCCO GOLD DATES Raw, organically and sustainably farmed Medjool dates grown in the Imperial Valley and sold at San Diego farmers’ markets. Find them at Santee Farmers’ Market Wed 3–7. • 619-449-8427 NORTH SAN DIEGO FARMERS’ MARKETS Sundays 10-4 at the Sikes Adobe Historic Farmstead. Produce, eggs, honey, artisan foods and hot food. I-15 at Via Rancho Pkwy, Escondido • northsdfarmersmarket.com BLUE TURTLE PRODUCTIONS FARMERS’ MARKETS Mira Mesa (Tue, 3-7), Carmel Valley (Thur, 3:30-7), Kearny Mesa (Fri, 10:30-1:30), La Costa Canyon, (Sat, 10-2), and Leucadia (Sun, 10-2). Local, farm-fresh produce, seafood, bread, flowers and specialty foods. 858-272-7054 • leucadia101.com SANTEE FARMERS’ MARKET Wednesdays from 3-7pm in the abandoned school parking lot. Fresh, sustainable produce, bread, pastured chicken, cheese and more. 10445 Mission Gorge Road • 619449-8427 • santeefarmersmarket.com

DEL MAR FARMERS’ MARKET In the Del Mar City Hall parking lot. Open 1-4 pm on Saturdays year round. 1050 Camino Del Mar • 760-521-0643 • delmarfarmersmarket.org

SAN DIEGO PUBLIC MARKET Open for farmers’ markets Wed & Sun 9–2. 1735 National Ave. near Petco Park. Permanent shops open spring 2013. Call to apply for space 619-233-3901 or email info@sdpublicmarket.com. • sdpublicmarket.com

ENCINITAS STATION FARMERS’ MARKET At the corner of E Street & Vulcan every Wednesday 5– 8 May-Sept, 4 to 7 OctApril. High quality produce, meat and artisan food vendors; no arts & crafts and no hot foods. Bring your own bags: no single-use plastic bags allowed.

SAN DIEGO OPEN AIR MARKET Opening Jan. 2013 at Qualcomm Stadium. Sat. & Sun. 10–3. Certified farmers’ market sponsored by San Diego Farm Bureau. Hundreds of vendors.Food court. Free parking & trolley stop.Vendors welcome to apply. sandiegoopenairmarket.com

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HILLCREST FARMERS’ MARKET Sunday 9-2 at the DMV. Locally grown produce, meat, fish, bread, artisan foods, gifts, arts, crafts and flowers, and hot prepared food items. 3960 Normal Street • 619-299-3330 • hillcrestfarmersmarket.com

SUZIE’S FARM Organic farm and CSA grows, sells and delivers USDA certified organic produce and micro greens to chefs 5 days a week, and to the public at many local farmers’ markets and through their CSA. 619-6621780 • suziesfarm.com • 800-995-7776 • sungrownorganics.com

FOOD REVIEWS & DISCUSSIONS LET THERE BE BITE LTBB helps you make the best food choices at your local store and online from trusted vendors, and provides tips on becoming your own four-star chef. • lettherebebite.com

FOODIE DESTINATIONS & CATERING ALCHEMY Light, healthy, sophisticated cultural fare, craft beer and cocktails. High-quality ingredients and local produce. 1503 30th Street, San Diego • 619-255-0616 • alchemysandiego.com ANNEL & DREW’S KITCHEN Mobile catering service featuring locally grown, organic produce. Specializing in events, farmers markets, and private parties. 858-210-5094 anneldrewskitchen.com BISTRO WEST Contemporary comfort food using only the highest quality and freshest ingredients. 4960 Avenida Encinas Carlsbad, CA 92008 760-930-8008 bistrowest.com BLIND LADY ALE HOUSE A certified purveyor of honest pints. Local & craft brews, Neapolitan style pizza topped with fresh made mozzarella, local veggies and charcuterie housemade from sustainably produced meat. 3416 Adams Avenue, San Diego • 619-255-2491 • blindladyalehouse.com BROOKLYN GIRL EATERY Locally owned and family operated. Casual neighborhood American eatery. Sustainable farm-to-table fare, full artisanal bar, local craft beers on tap, and an extensive and affordable wine list. 4033 Goldfinch • 619-296-4600 • brooklyngirleatery.com

CAFÉ MERLOT Dine from their own micro farm. They plant, grow and cook every meal to order. Cooking classes, specialty events, culinary medicine! 13330 Paseo del Verano Norte, Rancho Bernardo • 858-592-7785 • cafemerlot.com EL TAKE IT EASY Mexican wine country cuisine, local produce, pastured meats and local seafood. Local wines, craft beers and cocktails made with artisanal mescal, tequila, American whiskey and other spirits. 3926 30th Street, San Diego • 619-291-1859 • eltakeiteasy.com FARM HOUSE CAFE Rustic, country French cuisine in a quality, affordable neighborhood eatery. Local, fresh and seasonal produce, meat and cheese. Excellent eclectic wine selection. 2121 Adams Avenue, San Diego • 619269-9662 • farmhousecafesd.com FISH 101 Local and seasonal fish, shellfish and produce. All seafood is sourced in accordance with Monterey Bay Aquarium’s Seafood Watch Program. Delicious, seasonal desserts. 1468 N Coast Hwy 101, Encinitas • 760-943-6221 • fish101restaurant.com HARNEY SUSHI The most aggressive sustainability program of all Southern California restaurants. San Diegans “best sushi” pick.Sushi made with sustainably harvested fish. 3964 Harney Street, San Diego • 619-295-3272, and 301 Mission Avenue, Oceanside • 760-967-1820 • harneysushi.com JSIX Farm-to-table and boat-to-pan cooking sourced locally and using made-fromscratch methods. Great cocktails! 616 J Street, San Diego • 619-531-8744 • jsixrestaurant.com LOCAL HABIT Creating a community around local organic produce, meats and craft brewed beers. Hand-crafted pizzas, sandwiches and small plates. Produce from local organic farmers and award-winning craft brews. 3827 5th Avenue, San Diego • 619-795-4770 • mylocalhabit.com

Local craft beers on draught Market organics Local shellfish

4095 30TH STREET, SAN DIEGO • 619.283.1618

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MISS SUSHI SAN DIEGO Catering, foodtruck, sushi-making parties. Menus and complete information on the website. • misssushisandiego.com MITCH’S SEAFOOD Casual waterfront dining in the historic fishing neighborhood of Point Loma, serving up locally caught seafood with a view of the bay and the San Diego Sportfishing Fleet. 1403 Scott Street, San Diego • 619-222-8787 • mitchsseafood.com RITUAL TAVERN Humanely raised natural Niman meat, Jidori chicken, sustainable seafood, and locally grown organic vegetables in simple, delicious dishes. Great wine and craft beer menu. 4095 30th Street, San Diego • 619-283-1720 • ritualtavern.com SBICCA Cozy neighborhood restaurant. Traditional California cuisine. Ocean view. Given Wine Spectator’s “Award of Excellence” as the 2011 Gold Medallion Recipient for Best Neighborhood Restaurant. 215 15th Street, Del Mar • 858-481-1001 • sbiccabistro.com STARLITE Dinner. Cocktails. Late night dining. Cuisine that uses year-round local produce. Menu changes to accommodate San Diego’s seasonal products. 21 and up. 3175 India Street, San Diego • 619-358-9766 • starlitesandiego.com SUSHI JAPONE A Seafood, Soy and Sesame Environment. 100% rice bran oil for frying. Gluten-free soy sauce available. Happy hour Mon–Sat 5–6:30. 1101 Camino Del Mar (at 11th) in Del Mar • 858-755-7555 • sushijapone.com TENDER GREENS Organic classics and daily specials using the best of seasonal ingredients, local farms and artisan foods. San Diego locations: 2400 Historic Decatur Road in Liberty Station • 619226-6254, and 4545 La Jolla Village Dr. at UTC • 858-455-9395 • tendergreensfood.com TERRA AMERICAN BISTRO New American food with emphasis on ingredients and preparation styles from North, South and Central America. Local, sustainable and organic ingredients. 7091 El Cajon Blvd, San Diego • 619-2937088 • terrasd.com

THE FISHERY Seafood market at the center of the restaurant. Menu is market driven and changes seasonally. Sustainably raised and caught fish and fresh, local produce. Try the 3-course Tuesday Tastings menu. 5040 Cass Street, San Diego • 858-272-9985 • thefishery.com

SAN DIEGO BOTANIC GARDEN Four miles of garden trails on 37 acres, flowering trees, majestic palms, and the nation’s largest bamboo collection. Plants from all over the world thrive in a variety of microclimates. 230 Quail Gardens Drive, Encinitas • 760-436-3036 • sdbgarden.org

THE LINKERY Great food made with local produce, handmade sausages, local seafood and pastured meats. Local craft beer, and local wine. Open every day and late every night. 3794 30th Street, San Diego • 619-255-8778 • thelinkery.com

GROCERY

DA-LE RANCH Sustainably raised pork, lamb, beef, bison, rabbit, chicken, duck, goose, pheasant, quail and turkey by the cut at farmers’ markets. Custom order beef, pork and lamb by the side, half or quarter. CSA. • da-le-ranch.com/ • dave@da-le-ranch.com

BARONS MARKET Large selection of natural and specialty foods like grass-fed beef, organic cereal and bread and local craft beer at low prices. Organic produce section with many locally sourced items. Four locations: Point Loma • Rancho Bernardo • Temecula • Wildomar/ Murrieta • baronsmarket.com

GREEN BEEF Premier grass fed beef CSA. Family raised grass-fed beef since 1968. CSA shares of American Grassfed Association Tier 1 certified, Animal Welfare Approved grassfed beef delivered to Golden Hill Farmers’ Market (Sat), and San Marcos (Tue, Thur). • 888-524-1484 • eatgreenbeef.com

KRISP Family owned and operated since1975. Best Damn Beer Shop and Best Damn Homebrew Shop inside Krisp. Natural and organic foods, local beers and wines, brewers supplies.1036 7th Ave., San Diego 92101 • 619-232-6367 • krispsd.com

SAGE MOUNTAIN GREEN-FED™ BEEF Cattle fed organic wheat grasses, alfalfa, and other farm forages. No growth hormones, stimulants or antibiotics. Six and 12 month CSA options. Single order beef packages available at farmers’ markets. • sagemountainbeef.csaware.com/store

HEALTH & BEAUTY LIVE INSPIRED TODAY Clea Shannon guides you to a delicious, healthy, satisfying life. Board certified Holistic Health Coach. Gluten-free coach. 619-567-9642. cleashannon.com

TAJ FARMS A CSA/subscription farm in Valley Center selling pastured turkey, chicken, goat, pork, rabbit and beef. Dedicated to sustainable and responsible agriculture practices and creating safe and healthy food. • 760-670-7012 •tajfarms.net

RADIANCE YOGA & THERAPEUTIC CENTER Experienced, caring teachers guide you through postures gradually at a comfortable yet challenging pace. Yoga, therapeutic yoga, personal fitness and massage therapy. Private and group classes daily. • 619-299-1443 • radyoga.com

THE MEATMEN Artisan dry sausages made using an old world, cold fermentation process. Find MeatMen at Ocean Beach (Wed), La Mesa (Fri), Poway (Sat), Leucadia (Sun) and both Oceanside farmers’ markets (Thur). • 619- 708-9849 • meatmenstore.com

THRIVE WELLNESS Education, fitness training and lifestyle programs. Acupuncturists, massage therapists and other specialty doctors.4080 Centre Street, Suite 202, San Diego • 619- 795-4422 • thrivewellness.com

T&H PRIME MEATS AND SAUSAGE Artisan sausages, honey cured hams and turkeys. Year-round custom cut, smoke and wrap service for all wild game and farm-raised animals. At Vista (Sat am) and Del Mar (Sat pm) farmers’ markets • 735 E. Mission Rd., San Marcos • 760-471-9192 • tandhsausage.com

THE RED DOOR RESTAURANT AND WINE BAR A casually elegant neighborhood hangout. Organic produce sourced from their own ½-acre garden, local seafood and humanely raised meat. 741 W. Washington Street, San Diego • 619-295-6000 • thereddoorsd.com TIGER! TIGER! House baked breads, lots of excellent draught beer, salads, sandwiches, sausages and other hearty fare. Lunch served Fri– Sun. 3025 El Cajon Blvd. • 619-987-0401 • tigertigertavern.com

GARDEN RESOURCES GRANGETTO’S FARM & GARDEN SUPPLY Organic and eco-friendly garden and farm products, including rainwater harvesting, organic soil and pest control. Four locations: Escondido, 1105 W. Mission Av.; Encinitas, 189 S. Rancho Santa Fe; Fallbrook, 530 E. Alvarado St.; and Valley Center, 29219 Juba Rd. Open Mon-Fri, 7 to 5, Sat 7 to 4. Specials at grangettos.com • 800-536-4671 NORTH PARK NURSERY A neighborhood plant and garden supply enterprise owned and staffed by neighborhood residents. Supports local growers. Committed to reusing and up-cycling • 619-795-1855 • northparknursery.wordpress.com REVOLUTION LANDSCAPE Specializing in the design, installation and maintenance of edible gardens and eco-friendly, water wise landscapes for businesses and private residences. • 858337-6944 • revolutionlandscape.com

HOME & GARDEN LIVING PROGRESS Conscientious products for the home and garden, sourced from small design studios. Highest quality and accessible pricing. 2225 30th Street, San Diego • 619-280-5501 • progresssouthpark.com

MEAT

ORGANIZATIONS OXFAM An international relief and development organization that creates lasting solutions to poverty, hunger and injustice. oxfamamerica.org

CERTIFIED AND NON-PROFIT

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SD COUNTY FARM BUREAU Leading advocate for the farm community. Promotes economic viability of agriculture balanced with good stewardship of natural resources. Membership open to all, helps your local farmers and has many benefits. • 760-745-3023 • sdfarmsbureau.org SD CHILDREN’S DISCOVERY MUSEUM Inspiring children to learn about our world through exploration, imagination, and experimentation. Workshops. Discovery camp. Birthday parties. 760-233-7755 • sdcdm.org SLOW FOOD Supporting good food in San Diego and Riverside counties since 2001. Be a part of the growing national movement to reclaim and preserve good food and food traditions. • slowfoodsandiego. org • slowfoodurbansandiego.org • temeculaslowfood.org

PET CARE DEXTER’S DELI Suppliers of all natural diet and supplements for dogs and cats, including fresh raw foods and selected natural dry and canned foods. All are human-grade and chemical free. Two locations, Carlsbad, 760-720-7507; and Del Mar, 858-792-3707 • dextersdeli.com THE HONEST KITCHEN Healthy, nutritious, human-grade pet food, treats and supplements. Made from dehydrated whole food ingredients. Crueltyfree. Committed to supporting independent retailers. thehonestkitchen.com

REAL ESTATE CASSIDY/TURLEY COMMERCIAL REAL ESTATE Looking to expand your restaurant? Contact Randee Stratton who specializes in retail tenant representation. • 858-546-5418 • randee.stratton@ cassidyturley.com • Twitter: @rstratton

RESTAURANT SUPPLIES SPECIALTY PRODUCE Local, organic and sustainably sourced produce from over a dozen farms each week. Promotes freshly picked, organic produce. 1929 Hancock Street #150, San Diego • 619-295-3172 • specialtyproduce.com

SUN GROWN Sungrown cultivates six categories of quality produce: micro-greens, microherbs, sprouts, micro-mixes, edible blossoms and specialty greens and shoots. Also available through Suzie’s Farms. Call to order • 800-995-7776 • fax 619-662-1779 • sungrownorganics.com

SEAFOOD CATALINA OFFSHORE PRODUCTS Wholesale seafood market open to public, with fresh sushi grade and other local fish and shellfish. Saturday cooking demos . Open M-F, 8-3; Sat, 8-2. 5202 Lovelock Street, San Diego • 619-297-9797 • catalinaop.com PACIFIC SHELLFISH Locally owned and operated for over 30 years. Fish, shrimp and lobster are wild caught unless specified otherwise. Seasonal and subject to availability. Inside The Fishery restaurant at 5040 Cass St. Pacific Beach • 858-272-9940 • fax 858272-9615 • thefishery.com/wholesale

SPECIALTY RETAILERS CURDS AND WINE Home winemaking and cheese-making supplies. Large selection of wine kits. Make wine at the shop! Cheese-making cultures and equipment available and cheese-making demonstrations. 7194 Clairemont Mesa Blvd. , San Diego • 858-384-6566 • curdsandwine.com

Town Front Street, Temecula; 2754 Calhoun St., Old Town San Diego; 342 S. Cedros Av., Solana Beach; 148 Main St., Seal Beach • 1-866-olive-you • temeculaoliveoil.com

WINE ALTIPIANO VINEYARD AND WINERY Sangiovese, Barbera, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petite Syrah grapes. Wine Club. Tasting room: 11 to 5, Sat & Sun,. Reservations required for groups. 20365 Camino Del Aguila, Escondido • 760-839-7900 • altipianovineyard.com CACTUS STAR VINEYARD AT SCAREDY CAT RANCH Boutique winery producing small batches of premium wines from on-premise vineyard and Ramona Valley grown grapes. Tasting patio open 11 to 4, Sat & Sun by appointment only. 17029 Handlebar Road, Ramona • 760- 787-0779 • cactusstarvineyard.com CARRUTH CELLARS A boutique urban winery in the Cedros Design District. Tasting room open five days a week. 320 Cedros Ave. #400, Solana Beach. 858-847-9463 • carruthcellars.com HELLANBACK RANCH & VINEYARD 2010 & 2011 Hellanback Ranch & Vineyard wines now released. Tasting patio to open in mid Dec. 2012 by appointment only. 17287 Oak Hollow Road, Ramona • 760- 787-9586 • hellanbackranch.com

RAMONA RANCH WINERY Handcrafted award-winning red, white and rose wines created from Ramona Valley AVA family grown grapes. Not yet open to the public. 760-789-1622 • ramonavalleyvineyards.org TRIPLE B RANCHES A family business dedicated to producing San Diego’s finest wine grapes and premier estate wines. The wines embody the unique qualities of our region. • 760-749-1200 • triplebranches.com VESPER VINEYARDS We aim to expose wine drinkers to the diverse microclimates San Diego has to offer. We support local grapes and wine as well as all local agriculture and cuisine. • 760-749-1300 • vespervineyards.com

MEDIA CHEF’S PRESS • BREW FOOD Brew Food celebrates the range and versatility of beer and its adaptability to the home kitchen. Highlights the culinary creativity of chefs, dessertiers, brewers, brewery staffers, restaurateurs, and craftbeer-bar owners. chefspress.com KSDS JAZZ 88.3 FM JazzWeek Magazine’s Large Market Station of the Year in 2011. Full-time mainstream/traditional Jazz radio station licensed to the San Diego Community College District. jazz88.org

JENNY WENNY CAKES Cakes, cookies and desserts baked from scratch using the best ingredients. Order custom cakes and desserts for weddings, baby showers, birthdays and celebrations. See us at the San Diego Public Market on Sundays. 619-356-0536 • jennywennycakes.com SOLAR RAIN A pure, great-tasting premium drinking water sourced from the ocean off San Diego and purified locally using a clean, renewable energy resource. 760-751-8867 • solarrainwatery.com TEMECULA OLIVE OIL CO. Premium extra virgin olive oils from sustainably raised olives, balsalmic vinegars, mustards, sea salts, sauces and spreads. Four tasting rooms: 28652 Old

Saturdays

10am - 2pm

La Costa Canyon High School 1 Maverick Way Carlsbad, CA 92009 Benefits La Costa Canyon High School’s Visual and Performing Arts Department

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FARMERS’ MARKETS MONDAY

Escondido—Welk Resort # 8860 Lawrence Welk Dr. 3 – 7 pm, year round 760-651-3630

TUESDAY Coronado 1st St. & B Ave., Ferry Landing 2:30 – 6 pm 760-741-3763 Escondido * Grand Ave. btw Juniper & Kalmia 2:30 – 6 pm year round 760-745-8877 Mira Mesa * Mira Mesa High School 10510 Reagan Rd. 3 – 7 pm (3 – 6 pm winter) 858-272-7054 Morena District 1240 W. Morena Blvd. 3 – 7 pm 619-795-3363 Otay Ranch—Chula Vista 2015 Birch Rd. and Eastlake Blvd. 4 – 8 pm (4 – 7 pm winter) 619-279-0032

San Marcos *# Cal State San Marcos 333 S. Twin Oaks Valley Rd. 1 – sunset, (3 – 7 pm summer) 925-301-6081 Santee *# 10445 Mission Gorge Rd. 3 – 7 pm 619-449-8427 Temecula* 40820 Winchester Rd. by Macy’s 9 am – 1 pm 760-728-7343 Vista Main Street 271 Main St. & Indiana Ave. 4 pm – 8 pm 760-224-9616

THURSDAY Carmel Valley 5951 Village Center Loop Rd. Canyon Crest Academy 3:30 – 7 pm 858-272-7054 Chula Vista Center St. off Third Ave. 3 – 7 pm (3 – 6 pm fall/winter) 619-422-1982

Pacific Beach Bayard & Garnet 2 – 6:30 pm 619-233-3901

Horton Square San Diego 225 Broadway & Broadway Circle 11 am – 3 pm, REOPENS in March 760-741-3763

UCSD/La Jolla UCSD Campus, Town Square at Gilman/Meyers 10 am –2 pm (Sept to June) 858-534-4248

Linda Vista *# 6900 Linda Vista Rd. btw. Comstock & Ulric 2 – 7 pm year round 925-301-6081

WEDNESDAY

North Park CVS Pharmacy 3151 University & 32nd St. 3 – 7 pm year round 619-233-3901

Carlsbad * Roosevelt St. btw Grand Ave. & Carlsbad Village Dr. 1 – 5 pm 760-687-6453 Encinitas Corner of E St. & Vulcan 5 – 8 pm, May – Sept 4 – 7 pm, Oct-Apr 858-922-5135 Mission Hills # Falcon St. btw West Washington & Ft. Stockton 3 – 7 pm year round 619-795-3363 Ocean Beach 4900 block of Newport Ave. 4–7 pm (summer 4–8 pm) 619-279-0032 San Diego Public Market NEW! 1735 National Ave. 9 am – 2 pm 619-233-3901

Oceanside Market & Faire * Pier View Way & Coast Hwy. 101 9 am –1 pm 619-440-5027 Oceanside Sunset Tremont & Pier View Way 5 – 9 pm (winter 4 – 8 pm) 760-754-4512 San Carlos Pershing Middle School 8204 San Carlos Drive 4 – 7 pm 619-279-0032 SDSU Campanile Walkway btw. Hepner Hall & Love Library 10 am – 3 pm sdsufarmersmarket.com

Seeds @ City Urban Farm 14th & C Sts., SD City College 9:30 –11:30 am (Sept to June) erempala@sdccd.edu University Town Center # UTC Westfield Shopping Plaza 3 – 7 pm 619-795-3363

FRIDAY Borrego Springs Christmas Circle Comm. Park 7 am – noon (Nov–June) 760-767-5555 Fallbrook 102 S. Main, at Alvarado 10 am – 2 pm 760-390-9726 Imperial Beach *# Seacoast Dr. at Pier Plaza Oct – Mar, 2 – 6 pm, Apr–Sep, 2 – 7:30 pm 619-397-1917 Kearny Mesa North Island Credit Union pkg lot 5898 Copley 10:30 am – 1:30 pm 858-272-7054 La Mesa Village * Corner of Spring St. & University 2 – 6 pm 619-440-5027 Rancho Bernardo Bernardo Winery parking lot 13330 Paseo del Verano Norte 9 am – noon 760-500-1709 Southeast San Diego # 4981 Market St. (west of Euclid Ave. Trolley stop) 2 – 6 pm 619-262-2022

SATURDAY Carlsbad * Roosevelt St. btw Grand Ave. & Carlsbad Village Dr. 1 – 5 pm 760-687-6453 City Heights *!# On Wightman St. btw Fairmount & 43rd St. 9 am – 1 pm 925-301-6081 Del Mar 1050 Camino Del Mar 1 – 4 pm 760-586-0373 Golden Hill # B St. btw 27th & 28th Sts. 9:30 am – 1:30 pm 619-795-3363

La Costa Canyon La Costa Canyon High School One Maverick Way, Carlsbad 10 am – 2 pm 858-272-7054

La Jolla Open Aire La Jolla Elem. School Girard Ave. & Genter 9 am – 1 pm 858-454-1699

Little Italy Mercato Date St. (Kettner to Union) 8 am – 2 pm 619-233-3769

Leucadia * Paul Ecke Central Elem. School 185 Union St. & Vulcan St. 10 am – 2 pm 858-272-7054

Pacific Beach 4150 Mission Blvd. 8 am – noon 760-741-3763 Poway * 14134 Midland Rd. at Temple 8 – 11:30 am 619-440-5027 Ramona * 1855 Main St. (K-Mart pkg lot) 9 am–1 pm 760-788-1924 Rancho San Diego 900 Rancho San Diego Pkwy. Cuyamaca College 9 am – 2 pm 619-921-9450 San Diego Open Air Market Opens January 2013 Qualcomm Stadium 10 am – 3 pm sandiegoopenairmarket.com Scripps Ranch 10380 Spring Canyon Rd. & Scripps Poway Parkway 9 am – 1 pm 858-586-7933 Temecula * Old Town Temecula Sixth & Front St. 8 am – 12:30 pm 760-728-7343 Vista *# County Courthouse 325 Melrose Dr. South of Hwy 78 8 am – noon 760-945-7425

SUNDAY Gaslamp San Diego 400 block of Third Ave. 9 am – 1 pm 619-279-0032 Hillcrest DMV parking lot 3960 Normal & Lincoln Sts. 9 am – 2 pm 619-237-1632 Julian NEW! 2307 Main St. Bailey’s Barbecue pkg lot 10 am – 4 pm 760-765-2864

Murrieta * Village Walk Plaza off Kalmia 9 am – 1 pm 760-728-7343 North San Diego # Sikes Adobe Farmstead 12655 Sunset Dr. Escondido 10:30 am – 3:30 pm year round 858-735-5311 Point Loma # Corner of Cañon & Rosecrans 9:30 am – 2:30 pm 619-795-3363 Rancho Santa Fe Del Rayo Village 16079 San Dieguito Rd. 9 am – 1:30 pm 10 am – 2 pm fall/winter 858-922-5135 San Diego Open Air Market Opens January 2013 Qualcomm Stadium 10 am – 3 pm sandiegoopenairmarket.com San Diego Public Market NEW! 1735 National Ave. 9 am – 2 pm 619-233-3901 San Marcos *# Cal State San Marcos 333 S. Twin Oaks Valley Rd. 10 am – 2 pm 925-301-6081 Solana Beach 410 to 444 South Cedros Ave. 1 – 5 pm 858-755-0444 *M  arket vendors accept WIC (Women, Infants, Children Farmers’ Market checks) # Market vendors accept EBT (Electronic Benefit Transfer) ! Currently only City Heights accepts WIC Farmers’ Market Checks and the WIC Fruit and Vegetable Checks. All San Diego County markets listed except Julien, SDSU and Seeds @ City are certified by the County Agricultural Commissioner. Visit ediblesandiego.com and click on “Resources” for more complete information and links to farmers’ market websites.


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Edible San Diego - Winter 2012 issue