Edible San Diego Land Lovers Issue 69 Spring 2023

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LAND LOVERS MAGICAL FRUIT • REGENERATIVE RANCHING • HOW TO BE AN AGRITOURIST SERVING SAN DIEGO COUNTY | MEMBER OF EDIBLE COMMUNITIES | EDIBLESANDIEGO.COM EAT • DRINK • SHARE • GROW NO. 69 SPRING 2023 LIMITED EDITION
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Spring 2023

The Slow Wine Movement

WHAT TO LOOK FOR ON EDIBLESANDIEGO.COM

• Farm Birds of Chino Farm

• Regenerative Ranchers and Food Makers

• Central Coast Destinations + MORE

LISTEN

Living Local Podcast

WATCH ON YOUTUBE

• Beet Carpaccio with Burrata and Pistachios

• Spring Salad with Kumquats and Green Garlic

• Roasted Cherry Tomatoes and Labneh

• Mashed Spring Pea Crostini

• Date and Tahini Power Snack

PHOTO BY AMANDA SUBISH
ON THE COVER Spring harvest bundles take a bath at Pauma Tribal Farms. Read more on page 38. THIS IMAGE Yellow squash blossoms photographed in the field by Pauma Tribal Farms garden supervisor Amanda Subish.
IN THIS ISSUE DEPARTMENTS 4 Publisher’s Note EAT 6 Magical Fruits 11 Sandwiched Between a Pandemic and Inflation 13 SunCoast Farmers’ Market Haul 14 Local Markets Guide DRINK 18
to you by Edible Communities and Slow Food USA SHARE 24 Regenerative Ranching in San Diego 30 Becoming an Agritourist 33 Edible for Kids™ created in partnership with Barefoot Books, Inc. GROW 38 Pauma Tribal Farms 43 Benefits of Bokashi TAKEAWAY 46 Are You a Flower Eater? 48 Spring Word Play
CONTENTS Issue 69
Brought
GET HOOKED ON QUALITY San Diego’s Premium Fish Market Fresh Local Seafood and Sushi Specialties Family Owned and Operated for Over 40 Years Open Tues.–Fri., 8am–5pm and Sat.–Sun., 8am–3pm. Curbside Pickup Available Tues.–Fri. 5202 Lovelock Street, San Diego • (619) 297-9797 • catalinaop.com

Feet Planted Firmly on the Ground

Welcome to Land Lovers, our spring issue in which we focus on the land we rely on for sustenance and life itself. 2023 marks our 15th year of bringing people together around local food and why it’s so important, revealing, and hopeful. Have you heard of earthing? I like how this practice invites us to relate directly with the planet. We’re born. We live. And we die. Just like everything we eat. How are we called to be in this moment? Opinions differ, but we’re here for you on this conversation and journey.

Because of the kind of magazine we are, we take on these questions here:

• Did you know San Diego County has grasslands suitable for regenerative ranching?

• You mean I can make frijoles with beans grown around here?

• What difference does it make to shop local for produce?

• We can eat flowers?

• I like wine, but what does it have to do with taking care of the land?

• I hear about reducing food waste, but what can I do?

• Enough scrolling—I want to see some of these farms for myself! Where are they?

• How is a local tribe reinventing its food sovereignty? Let’s get to it. Thank you, Earth, for another spring. Dear reader, enjoy this season of promise and renewal.

4 ediblesandiego.com
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LAUREN DI MATTEO

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Katie Stokes

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No part of this publication may be used without written permission from the publisher. © 2023 All rights reserved. Every effort is made to avoid errors, misspellings, and omissions. If an error comes to your attention, please let us know and accept our sincere apologies.

This magazine is made possible thanks to Edible San Diego advertisers, members, and subscribers. Thank you for supporting San Diego’s local and independently women-owned food media company.

SPRING 2023 | edible SAN DIEGO 5
COVER PHOTO BY AMANDA SUBISH
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Magical Fruits

Why grow heirloom beans?,

This was the question we asked ourselves more than 14 years ago when we began farming. We committed ourselves to growing the best organic heirloom beans that were handed down to us by at least a hundred generations of farmers. Heirloom beans offer a whole spectrum of culinary delights.

Beans actually have many flavors and textures unknown to most of us. How so? Because the eight or so broadly commercial

varieties are often at least two to three years old before they reach you in bags or cans, and much of their flavor is lost. Consider how a doughnut in a bag would taste after two years!

Fresh dry beans range in taste and texture from rich and creamy to subtle flavors of coffee, chocolate, citrus, and butter.

Beans were first grown in northern Mexico more than 10,000 years ago. They were domesticated from wild plants, then cultivated and shared with tribal peoples that spread both north and south to form some of the great empires of the Americas. Today, we find these beans in a multitude of shapes and colors throughout the world. It is these dry bean seeds that are the heartbeat of Rio Del Rey.

Rio Del Rey is a family farm located on nine acres in Valley Center in northern San Diego County. The farm began in 2010 with the experimental planting of many varieties of beans in order to find out which grew best and were able to adapt to the Southern California climate. In 2013, we began commercial production of three beans and currently grow over 10 varieties on land adjacent to our home.

Nutritionally, beans are considered an important source of plant protein, and coupled with either corn or rice, they supply all the essential amino acids you need in your diet. The 2015–2020 Dietary Guidelines for Americans recommend we eat 1 ½ cups of legumes (beans and peas) each week at the 2,000 calorie level, but few Americans are reaching this goal.

From the standpoint of health and nutrition, with roughly 200 calories per cooked cup, beans are:

• high in minerals and fiber without the saturated fat found in most animal proteins

• may aid in weight loss due to high protein and fiber content, which can keep you feeling full for longer

• may reduce risk of heart disease by lowering LDL (bad) cholesterol, blood pressure, and inflammation

Studies show that beans can aid people with Type 2 diabetes; this is largely due to their high fiber content and low glycemic index. In one study, blood sugar, insulin, and triglyceride levels all decreased significantly when people with diabetes ate beans instead of red meat.

What’s more, beans are very cheap compared to most other nutritious whole foods.

The correct way to cook beans

There is an endless debate about how to prepare dry beans from just cooking them in a pot with water without presoaking to soaking the beans overnight to pressure cooking. The goal in all of these methods is to soften the beans without having them fall apart.

I’d like to suggest a method that we use that fulfills this goal and

EAT |
FLEXITARIAN COOKING
A legendary grower tells us why beans are a feel-good food
PHOTOGRAPHY BY LAUREN DI MATTEO

produces the best-tasting beans. It employs brining your beans before cooking them and adding a small amount of baking soda while cooking. Soaking dried beans in salt water overnight to soften their skins helps them cook more evenly and reduces the number of beans that rupture. For 1 pound of dried beans, dissolve 1½ tablespoons of table salt in 2 quarts of cold water. Soak the beans at room temperature for 8 to 24 hours. Drain and rinse well before using them.

Another suggestion for cooking beans in a shorter amount of time is adding a little baking soda to your cooking water, which causes the beans to soften much more rapidly. Adding a small amount of baking soda (about 1 teaspoon per cup of dry beans) reduces the cooking time by nearly half.

Rio Del Rey expands the definition of a farm with goals focused on:

• Developing new and disease-resistant bean varieties

• Collecting and preserving rare and endangered beans from around the world

• Supplying unique organic heirloom beans for cooking and planting as seeds

• Creating a sustainable farming system as a model for future small farms to use in further developing heirloom beans

• Providing educational opportunities for everyone interested in heirloom beans

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Opposite page: Mike Reeske started growing heirloom beans 14 years ago. This page from left: Rio Del Rey grower Thomas carries an armload of newly harvested bean pods. A dried bean in a pod. Rio Dey Rey Pot of Beans (recipe on page 9)—don’t skip the garnish.
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Rio Del Rey Pot of Beans

1 pound dry pinto, Anasazi, Rio Zape, or Anazape beans, picked over and rinsed

12 cups water or 8 cups water plus 4 cups vegetable or chicken stock

2 teaspoons baking soda

3 bay leaves

1 sprig epazote (optional)

2 tablespoons coriander seeds

1 tablespoon cumin seeds

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 large white onion, chopped

2 jalapeños, finely chopped (remove seeds and ribs for less heat)

6 cloves garlic, pressed or minced

1–2 teaspoons salt to taste

1½–2 teaspoons apple cider vinegar to taste

Minced green onions or cilantro leaves, chopped white onions, grated cotija or parmesan cheese, and Mexican sour cream (crema) to garnish

Cover the beans in water with 1½ tablespoons salt and soak overnight, allowing extra water for expansion.

Drain the beans and rinse in cold water. Pour into pot. Add stock or water to equal 12 cups followed by the baking soda, bay

leaves, and epazote; stir. Place the pot over medium to high heat and bring to a boil. Lower heat slightly and continue to boil for 10 minutes.

Reduce heat and cover, leaving the lid slightly ajar to allow steam to escape. The liquid should just be simmering. Add more water as needed.

In a small skillet over medium heat, add the coriander seeds and toast while stirring for 2 minutes. Add the cumin seeds and heat while stirring for 45 to 60 seconds. Do not overheat!

Remove the skillet from the heat and allow the spices to cool. Transfer to a spice or coffee grinder and process to a fine powder. Add the spices to the pot of beans, stir, and cover again, leaving the lid slightly ajar to allow steam to escape.

Meanwhile, add olive oil to a skillet over medium heat. Add the onions and jalapeños and sauté until the onion is just turning translucent. Add the garlic and continue to sauté for 2 minutes. Stir this mixture into the low-simmering beans.

Cook the beans at a low simmer until beans are tender, 1 to 1½ hours. Halfway through the cooking, remove the epazote and bay leaves and season with salt to taste.

When the beans are tender and creamy, add the vinegar and stir well. Heat an additional 2 minutes then serve hot with the garnishes of your choice.

SPRING 2023 | edible SAN DIEGO 9
| EAT
Mike Reeske grows Rio Del Rey organic heirloom dry beans. For more information about heirloom beans and recipes, visit riodelreyfarms.com.
10 ediblesandiego.com San Diego’s community owned organic grocery store & vegan deli EVERYONE CAN SHOP AT PEOPLE'S, OR CHOOSE TO OWN A PIECE OF THE CO-OP FOR JUST $15 A YEAR! OWNERS ACCESS ADDITIONAL DISCOUNTS, PERKS & COMMUNITY EVENTS OPEN EVERY DAY 8am-9pm 4765 Voltaire Street San Diego, CA 92107 www.obpeoplesfood.coop EarthDo.com Organic ● Made in the USA. 2+ yrs ● Not intended to be eaten. Gluten-Free. Allergen-Free.

Sandwiched Between a Pandemic and Inflation

The fallout for small food businesses

Just when I thought my bakery was rounding the Covid corner, as if the disappearance of an abundant workforce and supply chain issues weren’t enough, there came another plague on the fragile existence of my business—predictions of a recession. And we all seem to be bracing ourselves for the impact.

But these aren’t the topics weighing heavy on my mind. I have since renegotiated agreements with my purveyors in order to receive my ingredients in a timely manner and even made peace with back-ordering to accommodate loyal customers. I continue to struggle with having to turn away business at times because we don’t have enough employees to fill orders. I had thought lost revenue was the worst part of it all, but the worst part was yet to come.

Every head of household dreads not being able to feed our families, keep the heat on, and fill the gas tanks. It feels like inflation came about so quickly that there was no time to prepare. Looking back on history, we’ve survived previous periods of inflation. Sometimes it takes a couple of years, and sometimes several more. Many companies save money by improvising

there is little to none), gently raise prices, and, by all means, keep product quality paramount.

I know I am fortunate to still be in business, and without my dedicated and loyal employees, we would not be making the best gluten-free bread anymore.

I’m proud of how far I’ve come and continue to grow as a person and as an entrepreneur. I am of the generation that played outside until the street lights came on, held flashlights in the dark, recorded music off the radio, and had really cool big hair. I identify with a strong work ethic and believe with all my heart that if we do everything we can to stay healthy and invest in local, we can weather this storm. s

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EXPLORER

SunCoast Farmers’ Market Haul

Head to Imperial Beach on the third Saturday of the month for leisurely shopping and support a growing food co-op

While the future SunCoast Market Co-Op store location in Silver Strand Plaza is destined to bring more healthy food options to South Bay residents, it’s not expected to open until late summer of 2024. If the market stays on the current timeline for development, it will have taken over eight years to start the co-op in Imperial Beach.

“It takes most co-ops 10 years to get their store open,” says Shannon Ratliff, vice president on the all volunteer co-op board of directors.

For now, there’s an open-air market that takes place from 8am to 2pm on the third Saturday of every month. You’ll find food trucks, gourmet cookies, garden and houseplant additions, produce from local growers, and more with a priority to support local vendors.

Why shop at a co-op?

According to the California Center for Cooperative Development, a food co-op is either member-owned or workerowned, but decision-making can include both members and workers. SunCoast shoppers can become a member-owner for $200 per household, with financial assistance programs available. The SunCoast mission is “to provide a customer-owned food cooperative offering natural, local, and organic products at reasonable prices while supporting the local economy, providing food education, and advocating for environmentally sustainable practices.”

To produce the monthly farmers’ market model, SunCoast co-op board members like Ratliff have become activists, learning to jump through hoops (i.e. bureacracy and politics) to make this market happen and attract suitable vendors. Market fees are waived for small farmers and food credits are offered to local families to redeem for select grocery items.

SunCoast is approaching 1,000 member-owners with a goal of having 1,400 when the store opens.

More cooperative ways to food shop

There’s another co-op market in San Diego: Ocean Beach People’s Organic Food Market. Established in the early 1970s as a foodbuying club, People’s currently has over 13,000 member-owners and the cost of an annual household membership is only $15. Of the many perks the store has to offer, the People’s vegan deli is a top casual dining destination in our book. s

Worthy IB detour

SunCoast Market Co-Op

» suncoastmarket.coop

Ocean Beach People’s Organic Food Market

» obpeoplesfood.coop

SPRING 2023 | edible SAN DIEGO 13
MARKET
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The market haul A Scratch House vegan goat cheese to enjoy with medjool dates; El Diablo pickles, El Diablo aioli, and a delicious vodka sauce from Pretty Provisioned; kale, beets, and kumquats grown by Ranchito Milkyway in Bonita. Swing by Millport for some unapologetically comforting food, stunning pastries, and locally made gourmet gifts.

out in the open air and shop for fresh seasonal produce and San

finest seafood. This guide to regional farmers’ markets includes listings for San Diego

Rancho Bernardo √ 13330 Paseo del Verano Norte Friday, 9am–1pm Escondido √* 262 E. Grand Ave. Tuesday, 2:30–sunset State Street in Carlsbad Village √ State St. & Carlsbad Village Dr. Wednesday, 3–7pm Del Mar √ 1050 Camino Del Mar Saturday, 1–4pm Escondido—Welk Resort √† 8860 Lawrence Welk Dr. Monday, 3–7pm
Diego’s
County. Solana Beach √† 410 S. Cedros Ave. Sunday, noon–4pm Borrego Springs √ 700 Palm Canyon Dr. Friday, 7am–noon (Nov–Apr) Santa Ysabel √ 21887 Washington St. Sunday, noon–4pm Rancho Santa Fe—Del Rayo Village √ 16079 San Dieguito Rd. Sunday, 9:30am–2pm Leucadia √* 185 Union St. & Vulcan St. Sunday, 10am–2pm Vista √*† 325 S. Melrose Dr. Saturday, 8am–noon Rancho Penasquitos 9400 Fairgrove Ln. Saturday, 9am–1pm Poway √* 14134 Midland Rd. Saturday, 8am–1pm Fallbrook Main Street √ Main Ave. btwn Hawthorne and Fig. Saturday, 9:30am–2pm San Marcos √ 251 North City Dr. Tuesday, 3–7pm Mira Mesa √* 10510 Reagan Rd. Tuesday, 2:30–7pm Scripps Ranch √ 10045 Carroll Canyon Rd. Thursday, 3–7pm Oceanside Morning √* 401 Pier View Way & Hwy. 101 Thursday, 9am–1pm Cardiff √ NEW Miracosta College San Elijo Campus 3333 Manchester Ave. Saturday, 10am–2pm
Get

ensuring that the produce is grown by the seller or another cer tified

in California, and meets all state quality standards. Locations are not exact. All listings are subject to change. Please contact markets directly to confirm hours of operation and locations. Visit ediblesandiego.com for more complete information and links to market

Linda Vista √*† 6939 Linda Vista Rd. Thursday, 2–7pm Chula Vista √* 300 Park Way & Third Ave. Sunday, 10am–2pm LEGEND * Market
Infants, Children) Farmers’ M arket checks. † Market
EBT
! Market
WIC
Vegetable
√ Markets
Commissio ner,
Imperial Beach √*† 10 Evergreen Ave. Friday, 2–7pm (2–6pm winter) SunCoast Market 1075 8th St. 3rd Saturday, 8am–2pm People’s Produce Mobile Farmers’ Market—Machete Brewery NEW 2325 Highland Ave. Sunday, 11am–1pm La Jolla Open Aire √ 7335 Girard Ave. & Genter Sunday, 9am–1pm Hillcrest √* 3960 Normal St. Sunday, 9am–2pm La Mesa Village √* La Mesa Blvd. btwn Palm & 4th St. Friday, 3–7pm People’s Produce Mobile Farmers’ Market—Second Chance Garden NEW 6145 Imperial Ave. Friday, 3pm–5pm Little Italy Mercato √*† 501 W. Date St. Wednesday, 9:30am–1:30pm Saturday, 8am–2pm Ocean Beach √ 4900 block of Newport Ave. Wednesday, 4–8pm People’s Produce Mobile Farmers’ Market—Mt. Hope NEW 4269 Market St. Wednesday, 11am–1pm Santee *† Carlton Hills Blvd. & Mast Blvd. Saturday, 2:30–6:30pm South Bay √ 4475 Bonita Rd. Wednesday, 3–7pm Tuna Harbor Dockside Market 598 Harbor Ln. Saturday, 8am–noon Mission Valley √† 7960 Civita Blvd. Saturday, 9am–1pm City Heights √*†! Wightman St. btwn Fairmount & 43rd St. Saturday, TEMPORARILY CLOSED Coronado √ 1st St. & B Ave., Ferry Landing Tuesday, 2:30–6:30pm Pacific Beach Tuesday √† 901 Hornblend St. Tuesday, 2–7pm Otay Ranch—Chula Vista √ 2015 Birch Rd. and Eastlake Blvd. Tuesday, 4–7pm People’s Produce Mobile Farmers’ Market—Lemon Grove NEW 2885 Lemon Grove Ave. Thursday, 4–6pm North Park √*† 2900 North Park Way at 30th Thursday, 3–7:30pm
vendors accept WIC (Women,
vendors accept
(Electronic Benefit Transfer).
vendors accept
Fruit and
checks.
certified by the San Diego County Agricultural
farmer
websites.

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The Slow Wine Movement

Advancing transparency, land stewardship, sustainability and flavor

Wine, one of the oldest alcoholic beverages, has gone through expansive iterations over many centuries. Dating back to 7000-6600 BCE at the early Chinese Neolithic site of Jiahu, the earliest form was a fermented mixture of rice, honey and fruit. In modern times, the wine industry has ballooned, with the global wine market size estimated at $340 billion in 2020, and expected to grow another $100 billion by 2028.

While the expansion of the wine industry has increased accessibility and variety, the behind-the-scenes reality has not always been positive. Today, fertilizers, pesticides and fungicides are used to combat pests, diseases and mildews that affect wine productivity. These synthetic herbicides have wreaked havoc on the environment, degrading soil and land. This leads to unusable land, water runoff, pollution, a loss in soil productivity, and other environmental hazards.

This is where the Slow Wine movement enters the picture; they are a grassroots group of global wine ambassadors who prioritize the conservation of natural resources through land stewardship. “The Slow Wine movement celebrates like-minded producers who prioritize sustainability in different ways and make land

stewardship one of their primary goals,” said Deborah Parker Wong, national editor of the Slow Wine Guide USA and a leader in the Slow Wine movement. Wine is an agricultural product and therefore, Slow Food believes production of it must be clean and fair as it impacts the lives of the people who produce it and the environment in which it is produced. Currently, this is not the case across the board. “What we see happening in the myriad of sustainability programs in the wine industry is land stewardship being treated as a tradeoff against other practices that are often far easier for wineries to adopt,” Parker Wong explained. “Most use a points-based system that allows synthetic herbicides in exchange for other practices such as water reclamation and solar energy use.”

One of the main challenges the Slow Wine movement faces is a common issue within the sustainability field: greenwashing. Greenwashing refers to businesses misleading consumers into thinking that their practices, products or services minimize their environmental impact more than they actually do. This leads to consumer confusion and frustration, and often puts the responsibility back on consumers to do extensive research to determine the actual environmental impact, if that information is

18 ediblesandiego.com
DRINK |
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even available. While there are guidelines and annual inspections for sustainability programs, enforcement of them varies greatly; currently, no federal or state laws govern the standards or enforcement.

“Greenwashing is an epidemic in the wine industry,” shared Pam Strayer, senior editor of the Slow Wine Guide USA, the nation’s only wine guide that prioritizes land stewardship, which aims to provide the transparency that consumers want and need. The publication highlights wineries that implement environmentally positive land practices. Awards are given to distinguished wineries for quality of wine, inclusion of heritage ingredients, and wine that is made more accessible via price. “The guide gives consumers facts and insights as well as choice recommendations. This gives consumers the power to seek out the wines that align with their values and the ability to discover under-the-radar wineries that are often too small to get media attention, but who are making wines worthy of attention.”

To determine which wineries qualify to be included in the guide, the Slow Wine team uses a robust process to select new wineries and update the wineries and wines featured in the guide.

For new additions, coordinators identify and contact potential new wineries by researching organic and dynamic winery databases, reading about sustainable farming practices, word of mouth referrals, tasting new wines, and reader suggestions. To update the listings, which is done annually, coordinators visit every winery that was previously featured in the guide, conduct a farming audit and taste the wines to be listed, to ensure they still emulate the values of the Slow Wine movement. Once this process is completed, all entries are fact checked, and the guide is finalized and printed. This multi-step procedure allows the team to not only eliminate any potential greenwashing or misinformation, but also to forge relationships with winemakers

20 ediblesandiego.com
DRINK |
Visit Edible San Diego’s online wineries guide featuring San Diego County’s unique history, terroir, and dedicated vintners.

and have conversations with them to advance the Slow Wine movement and provide resources.

“When we talk about the future of Slow Wine, I’m thinking about what’s being done in the present to help shape that future,” Parker Wong stated.

The movement and guide also celebrates women- and BIPOC-owned wineries, communities not commonly represented in the wine industry, and recognizes the humanity and talents of people working in the wine fields. The people aspect of sustainability is just as important as preservation of the land. “We strongly believe that the health of the soil and the people who live and work on the land is the foundation of sustainability,” Parker Wong shared. “By prioritizing stewardship, we are often questioned about singling out one aspect of sustainability—an aspect that we see as the lowest possible bar.”

While the Slow Wine movement has made strides to bring awareness to the industry for transparency and positive choices, there is still work to be done. One of the biggest issues that remains besides greenwashing is the domination of conventional wines, which is wine made using additives and chemicals. That is why supporting wineries in the Slow Wine Guide USA is crucial to help consumers make more informed decisions and provide incentive for winemakers to continue to make environmental improvements. Parker Wong and Strayer especially emphasized encouraging local stores to

carry the wines featured in the guide and supporting wineries directly.

The Slow Wine team is optimistic about the future as organic wine is expected to grow by 10 percent from 2022 to 2023. “We are seeing a new trend emerge, one that links ultra-premium wines and the premiumization of brands to land stewardship through organic certification,” Parker Wong shared. The Slow Wine team would like to see more consistent alignment with entities that are awarding sustainable certifications and how wineries are communicating their practices. “For the brightest possible future,” Parker Wong stated, “I’d like more collaboration and support from those who regulate sustainability in the wine industry for our work at the Slow Wine Guide USA s

For more information on the Slow Wine movement and to purchase a copy of the Slow Wine Guide USA, visit slowfoodusa.org/product/slow-wineguide-usa-2022.

Michelle DiMuzio serves as the communications coordinator for Slow Food USA, helping to facilitate posts on digital channels, creates content for the blog, and engages in storytelling efforts for the national movement. Michelle has spent the last seven years in the nonprofit sector and has participated in several fellowship programs including the New Sector Alliance Fellowship Program and the Neighborhood Leadership Program through the Wilder Foundation. She has been involved in the food sector in many capacities including collaborating on initiatives with the University of Michigan’s campus farm, working in the restaurant industry, consulting for a local fish company to promote the sustainable usage of invasive species, and volunteering at her local community garden. She recently received her master’s degree in sustainability from Harvard University, with a focus on sustainable food systems. She will be attending the University of Gastronomic Sciences in the fall to pursue a Master of Gastronomy in World Food Cultures and Mobility.

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PANSIES & MORE

At Specialty Produce, our goal is to sow excitement for unfamiliar fruits, vegetables, and even flowers, which offer a whimsical element in cooking and mixology that is often dismissed as simple décor. Yet many regular garden residents are rooted in sensational stories uniquely entwined with the narrative of humanity—stories of rejuvenation and growth, like spring itself, bring a bite of history to our pres ent-day plate.

Take the Victorian era, when budding advances in technology blossomed in the economic and cultural revolution, changing the way people lived, worked, and even gardened. Innovative greenhouses allowed delicate plants to survive through harsh winters and seeded demand for non-native species from faraway lands. As gardening gripped the nation, orchids became so obsessively sought after as a symb ol of luxury, beauty, and exclusivity that it was dubbed “orchidelirium.” Queen Victoria appointed orchid hunters to search the world for new varieties as they fought natural dangers and fierce competition from fellow hunters, who ruthlessly ransacked and nearly decimated populations of the plant. Lucky for us, orchids now grow in almost every region of the world and garnish our desserts and drinks with a mi ld, botanical taste of Victorian luxury.

Flowers are also often considered a universal language, as they hold symbolic meaning that transcends cultures stemming back thousands of years, from the teachings of Buddha to the works of Shakespeare. Tussiemussies, small bouquets of flowers carried near the nose to protect from unpleasant odors, were romanticized in the Victorian era as they were gifted to ladies by gentleman callers who relied on the language of flowers to share secret messages. Pansies, in particular, were favored to show love and desire (feelings that were taboo to express directly under the strict social etiquette). Today, pansies still flirt with our senses with their tender texture, delicate perfumed scent, and subtly sweet, tangy, vegetal flavor.

This spring season, cultivate your appetite for growth inside and outside the kitchen. We invite you to visit our warehouse to explore our colorful collection of edible flowers and download the Specialty Produce App for a fresh perspective of what’s on your plate—and how it got there!

SCAN HERE TO DOWNLOAD

future of agriculture includes all Americans. farmland.org

Discrimination against marginalized groups in agriculture negatively affects all Americans by limiting the opportunities for farmers, workers, and consumers. AFT is raising up diverse voices in agriculture, because we believe diversity contributes to a more resilient agricultural system, a stronger economy, and a more equitable society.

SPRING 2023 | edible SAN DIEGO 23
Get fresh updates on our work to ensure
At American Farmland Trust, we believe agriculture is strengthened through diversity, just like the soil.
the

Regenerative Ranching in San Diego

Restoring the region’s grasslands

A BITE OF HISTORY

San Diego County has grasslands well suited for regenerative ranching, which means there is the capacity and resources to restore what has been lost through history.

For thousands of years before the arrival of Europeans, a large portion of what we now know as San Diego County was covered with a dynamic array of perennial grasses, wildflowers, shrubs, and chaparral, inhabited and tended to by the region’s indigenous peoples. Colonization would radically change land use. First Spanish, followed by Mexican, then American settlers introduced agricultural practices from their homelands. Among many other profound and lasting impacts, these practices changed the natural rhythm of perennial and annual grasses, reducing their extent to only a few preserved locations.

Today, San Diego contains only about 147,200 acres of grassland, much of which through either neglect or intensive use has lost

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PHOTOGRAPHY BY LUKE SCHMUECKER, KELSEY BUELNA, AND MARIA HESSE Thompsons Heritage Ranch in Ramona.

most of its soil health, water retention, and biodiversity. A new generation of ranchers in San Diego is revisiting, learning from, and supporting the delicate, dynamic balance between grazing and resting the land.

WHAT DOES REGENERATIVE RANCHING LOOK LIKE?

The regenerative movement is a land use philosophy and practice that’s coming full circle to create a healthier future for people, natural systems, and the plants and animals we coexist with. There is not nor should there be a single definition for regenerative ranching, but those who walk this path seek an ever deeper understanding based on the ancient intelligence of the earth and first peoples. Ranching regeneratively requires us to eliminate artificial ways of tending to the land and encourages the remembrance of the harmonious pace of nature.

Some of the main principles of regenerative ranching include:

• Building topsoil

• Enhancing the biodiversity of native plants and animal species

• Sequestering carbon

• Rotational or mob grazing

• Adding cover crops

• Reducing chemical input

• Humane processing

Ranchers like Gabe Brown have demonstrated through their work that regenerative practices have the ability to enrich all life on the planet.

Brown has collected data on the carbon sequestration levels his soils have achieved; just in the top 48 inches, his soils have 96 tons of carbon per acre. On conventionally farmed soils in his region, typically only 10 to 30 tons of carbon is stored. Regenerative ranching is a completely different approach compared to conventional ranching. This type of land management can reduce or reverse damage that has been done over the last few centuries through excessive tilling, the use of petroleum-based fertilizers, genetically modified crops, and more.

SOME FOOD FOR THOUGHT

As we question aspects of agriculture that many have taken for granted, simple questions can lead us away from soundbites and towards more informed choices. For example, separating animal farming from plant farming seems normal, right? Well, actually ruminants have evolved to act as natural fertilizers and tillers of the soil. Without them in the picture, many farmers add mechanical and chemical inputs, which are expensive and can be very damaging to soils, waterways, wildlife, and our own health. Another way that food production has been stepping away from natural systems is the so-called fake food industry. Millions of

dollars are being invested in projects to create GMO animals and meat with 3D printers. Imagine the land we could regenerate with that money. Envision all the food that could be grown and the ecosystems that could be restored if all that energy was put back into the land instead of a lab. Though it may seem overwhelming to make an impact on a global scale, we absolutely can on a local one if we vote with our food dollars to support pastured animal products.

THE GRASS IS GREENER ON THE OTHER SIDE

Currently, in the field focused on innovation and regeneration, cattle, goats, and sheep are being deployed all over California to clean up areas prone to wildfire. Some ranches have contracts with Cal Fire while others collaborate within their communities, sharing animals to reduce the cost and workload. As these herds graze and consume all of the vegetation in their paths—which is now nourishing the herds rather than feeding a fire—a syntrophic relationship is created that continues to support and restore native plants and increase fungi activity below the soil.

The microbes in the soil are the foundation for the health of the plants and foods we consume. Practices such as moving the animals so that the land is not overgrazed and not overusing antibiotics plays a huge role in supporting soil microbiomes. In addition to animals aiding in fire prevention and increasing the organic matter below our feet, they are also our allies in reducing carbon emissions. According to a paper published in late 2020 by the Rodale Institute, global implementation of regenerative practices could sequester more than 100% of human-related carbon emissions.

The San Diego Climate Action Plan drew much attention to new technology, purchasing clean electricity credits, and other forms of inorganic ways to draw down carbon with a goal of net zero emissions by 2035. It doesn’t have to be so complicated. There are examples locally and globally that demonstrate that not only are we able to reduce our carbon footprint with holistic management of livestock, but we can also regenerate and restore ecosystems.

CARING FOR LIVESTOCK IN THIS WAY IS AN ACT OF ENVIRONMENTAL ACTIVISM

Are you aware that there are over 5,000 farms in San Diego County? This data was taken just two years ago and more farms and ranches have sprouted since. Less than a year ago, Ty Thompson and his family started a regenerative pastured pork operation on 400 acres in Ramona. “Ranching has been a passion of mine since I was a very little kid, and there are very few that do the operation we are doing. So I thought, let’s start something that I already have prior experience in and get out of working for someone. I wanted to make a change,” Thompson says.

Thompson Heritage Ranch practices rotational grazing and will be testing the soil every six to 12 months to shed light on changes and improvements in organic matter.

SPRING 2023 | edible SAN DIEGO 25
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“YOU ARE WHAT YOU EAT EATS TOO.” —MICHAEL POLLAN

BECOMING A REGENETARIAN

Regenetarian: A person who consumes food that has been grown or raised in a regenerative way that supports soil health and human health.

There is a resonance to food that has a story—food that is raised with intention, not just for your family, but for generations to come. One of the most exciting things is going into a restaurant, reading its menu, and seeing a list of SoCal farms from which some of the ingredients are sourced. Farm-to-table is the way to wine and dine in 2023. Seeking out food that is pasture-raised in California, grass-finished, and organic is key when becoming a regenetarian. In the grocery store, one can search for labels like “regenerative organic,” “no-till,” or “glyphosate residue free.”

As consumers, it is easy to get swept up in diet culture and fad food labels but still have no real connection to the food and its impact on our soil. We can get wrapped up in the popular or ethical ways of eating but still not be connected to who grows or raises the food we eat, especially when talking about animal products.

• Who feeds you?

• Who nourishes you?

How can eaters find a meaningful connection to where their food comes from?

“I believe the best way is to go on [farm] tours and spend time observing the animals and their habits. Look at the soil and their impact, and how that relates to the food that ends up on our plates.”

Glossary of Terms

Regenerative—to regrow, renew, or restore something that has been damaged or lost

Carbon sequestration—capture, removal, and storage of carbon dioxide (CO2) from the earth’s atmosphere

Biodiversity—variety of life in a habitat or ecosystem

• Are you in a place to receive nourishment?

• Does your source of nourishment support your body and the land?

These are just a few questions to chew on.

It’s important to recognize that there are significant barriers to accessing food produced with these qualities and values, but the more we learn about, support, and purchase regenerative foods, the more we can reach our goal of making them more widespread and accessible to more people.

When we shop with the seasons, we are connected to the natural rhythm of the earth. Eating with the seasons informs our bodies of what it needs to know to live a resilient life. Living in Southern California, we have the weather for growing year-round, and farmers’ markets, farm stands, and CSAs offer the freshest and most local food possible.

Because of logistical limitations and a lack of meat processors in San Diego County, we can have food, even regenerative meat, that is grown locally, then shipped several hundred miles (through

26 ediblesandiego.com SHARE |
—Ty Thompson, Thompson Heritage Ranch
Book a personal ranch tour with Ty and Carene Thompson to meet the pigs in person.
SPRING 2023 | edible SAN DIEGO 27 | SHARE
“We’re passionate about the animals we steward, the soils we’re reviving through our grazing practices, and helping people live healthier and more connected lives.”
— Kevin Muno, Perennial Pastures
KELSEY BUELNA COURTESY OF PERENNIAL PASTURES
Above: Kevin Muno. Right: Grasslands at Perennial Pastures.

LA traffic) to processing and distribution centers, then shipped back to a major grocery retailer in your neighborhood. The farther our food must travel, the earlier it is harvested and the less nutrition it has to offer once it reaches the table weeks or months later. Shopping at the grocery store means tackling labels with healthy skepticism. It falls to us to research the claims made about ingredients, sourcing, and processing. Ask questions as you shop so retailers know you care.

When looking at regenerative ranchers, Perennial Pastures is a prime example of how these land and animal management practices can help inform the community. Their team is working with the Bionutrient Food Association to collect data to further demonstrate that soil health is tied to the nutrient density of the food grown in it. Many of us inherently know that an animal raised humanely on pasture is healthier than an animal raised in confined spaces and fed GMO feed, but there is limited data out there proving this. The Bionutrient Food Association is still at the seed-planting stages of its operation and is raising money for research.

“One of the things that has long bothered me about producing pasture-raised chickens is that there’s no way my middle-class parents could have afforded our birds when I was growing up. I hope this amazing movement doesn’t get limited to producing food for rich people. The big companies bring in economies of scale, which can help bring down prices so more people can afford nutrient-dense food. Of course, consumers will need to pay a bit more for better food. I don’t think anyone will argue that. But it’s also on us farmers to innovate systems that make these regenerative practices efficient, affordable, and accessible to more people if we want to see systematic change.”

CONNECTING WITH LOCAL RANCHERS

De-La Ranch, Lake Elsinore, CA »da-le-ranch.com

Happy Hens, Ramona, CA »happy-hens.com

Pasturebird, Oak Grove, CA »pasturebird.com

Perennial Pastures Ranch, Warner Springs, CA »perennialpasturesranch.com

Rancho Guejito, Escondido, CA »ranchoguejitobeef.com

Thompson Heritage Ranch, Ramona, CA »thompsonheritageranch.com

WE ARE REMEMBERING

One of the most beautiful things about the regenerative food movement is that it restores connections that have been lost to nature’s abundance, our farmers and ranchers, local economy, native plants, and the world beneath our feet. This is a multigenerational project.

One that can heal, one plate at a time...

And the time is now. s

*Disclaimer: This article is not intended to provide dietary advice. Consult with your healthcare provider before making significant dietary changes.

Three Sons Ranch, Ramona, CA »threesonsfarm.org

Gabriell Simons is a holistic health practitioner, ancestral-foods chef, writer, and homesteader in training. She recently started the North County San Diego Weston A. Price Foundation chapter and plans to collaborate with other practitioners and farmers in the community to offer families and friends a deeper connection to their food and where it comes from. She currently cooks for a few families and loves creating alchemy in the kitchen for private events. To connect, follow @thehealersdigest on Instagram.

28 ediblesandiego.com SHARE |
— Paul Grieve, Pasturebird
MARIA HESSE The grassland valley floor at Pasturebird near Warner Springs.

ADDITIONAL RESOURCES

Follow the Regenerative Organic Alliance and learn about best practices and certification standards.

»regenorganic.org

Check out the Bionutrient Food Association for more dirt on what they are working on.

» bionutrient.org

For more groundbreaking research, look to the Rodale Institute. » rodaleinstitute.org

To promote funding for regenerative agriculture in the federal 2023 Farm Bill, connect with the team at Kiss the Ground. Following the publication of the 2017 book Kiss the Ground, Michelle Lerach, La Jolla resident, local food advocate, and founder of the Berry Good Food Foundation became an executive producer of the 2020 documentary film of the same name, which has since been screened millions of times globally. Feedback from world leaders, state and federal politicians, and farmers motivated by the movie’s impact have helped the organization to form Regenerate America, a coalition of bipartisan businesses, farmers, and citizens supporting legislation for regenerative agricultural resources.

»kisstheground.com/regenerate-america

RISTORANTE ITALIANO BAR LOUNGE

Award-winning

Michelin

Open

SPRING 2023 | edible SAN DIEGO 29
Italian
Service,
List
Cuisine, Chef,
and Wine
Guide Bib Gourmand Restaurant
7 days a week in Liberty Station for Indoor & Heated Patio Dining and Take-Out/Delivery 2820 Roosevelt Rd, San Diego | 619-270-9670 | solarelounge.com
| SHARE
Young flock of chickens at Pasturebird.

Becoming an Agritourist

Rewarding and delicious experiences are only a farm stand away

What is agritourism?

ag.ri.tour.ism (ˌa-gri-ˈtu̇ rˌ i-zəm) is the practice of touring agricultural areas to see farms and often to participate in farm activities. (Merriam-Webster)

There are many benefits to being a farmer. It’s stimulating work, the views are spectacular, and there’s lots of sunshine and fresh air. Here’s encouragement to get a taste of this good life, experience the delicious things growing around us, and meet the people behind them.

Single-day agritourist experiences

Rural Retail Therapy

From the Vegetable Shop at Chino Farm to the microgreen salad ATM at Fred’s Urban Farm in Spring Valley, entrepreneurs and family operations are getting creative about offering world-class local food shopping, learning, and leisurely experiences in the countryside.

U-Pick Events

Keep an eye on the Stehly Farms Organics online event calendar in spring and early summer for some of the best strawberry and blackberry U-Pick day trips to Valley Center. Follow that up with late summer apple and pear picking in Julian and persimmon picking in Ramona in the fall.

Farm Dinners

For the ultimate in low-food-mile dining, book your next table on a farm. Seasonal special events produced by regional growers like Sage Hill Ranch Gardens are becoming annual traditions for fresh vegetable enthusiasts.

Volunteer

Community gardens and food rescue organizations need volunteers to help with numerous efforts and projects. What better way to experience an orange grove than gleaning with friends for a good cause?

The City of Oceanside and the San Diego County Board of Supervisors have recognized agritourism as an opportunity to enhance the region’s lucrative tourism industry. Local leaders are taking proactive measures to update ordinances and make it easier for farms, ranches, and wineries to welcome customers.

Connect to where your food is coming from and meet the people growing it. You might also make friends with others who like to geek out over U-pick events and farm stands.

Winery Tours and Wine Tasting

That's right, friends, visiting a winery is agritourism and there are over 100 wineries in the county. Cheers.

Farm and Ranch Tours

The Perennial Pastures tour includes a hearty regenerative lunch for a very reasonable price. »perennialpasturesranch.com

More Farms to Visit

Bates Nut Farm

Brick & Barn

Carlsbad Flower Fields

Oma’s Family Farm

Sand N’ Straw

Summers Past Farm

What farms are you headed to next?

Share your favorite agri-day-trips with us on Instagram and tag @ediblesdmag.

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223

Coast

A homegrown Bakery with breakfast, lunch and of course pastries from scratch. We are just blocks from the Oceanside Pier so stop in and see us!

SPRING 2023 | SAN DIEGO 31 Come explore Oceanside’s food scene with us! shoesandchews.com The Privateer Coal Fire Pizza theprivateercoalfirepizza.com 1706 S Coast Hwy A local family-owned restaurant using the freshest ingredients and a 100% coal fire oven. Cold craft beers and the largest selection of wines in the North County. Flying Pig Pub & Kitchen flyingpig.pub
Mission Ave. The best Southern style comfort food in the North County.
owned,
supported. KNVS Bar knvs.bar 127 S Coast Hwy Art inspired Restaurant Bar.
We
allmine allmineoceanside.com 119 S Coast Hwy allmine is a vibe. Born out of love for great food, fresh ingredients,
and
We
from
and
The Miller’s Table millerstable.com 514 S Coast Hwy A heartfelt community table experience. Join us for seasonally
Sit
Naegi eatatnaegi.com 1902 S Coast Hwy A Japanese
sister bakery,
Orfila Restaurant and Winery orfila.com 221 N Cleveland St Local
Petite Madeline Bakery petitemadelinebakery.com
509
Family
community
When Art Gallery and Restaurant fall in love.
have a rotating menu with rotating artists.
family
best friends.
love making things
scratch—from bread
pasta to sausage, cheese, pickles and jams.
inspired menus and curated wine and beer pairings.
down as strangers. Leave as friends.
influenced sandwich spot featuring karaag (fried chicken) sando, karaag, and the extraordinary milk bread bun made by our
Hokkaido Bread Company.
favorite specializing in seafood, steaks and shared plates with award-winning wine. We look forward to seeing you.
N
Hwy

Illustration adapted from The Perfect Sushi (Barefoot Books), written by Emily Satoko Seo and illustrated by Mique Moriuchi

SPRING 2023 | edible SAN DIEGO 33 Activities, recipes, stories (and more!) created for family sharing Read to Learn More: Discover the key ingredient for any dish in The Perfect Sushi ! barefootbooks.com/perfect-sushi is created in partnership with indie, award-winning, Concord, MA-based children’s publisher, Barefoot Books. Learn more by visiting www.barefootbooks.com. From the Heart

LET’S EAT!

Homemade Sushi Recipe

The perfect sushi is unique — made with kokoro (heart) by you!

You will need:

Time: 45 minutes Makes: 12–15 pieces of sushi

Note: It’s important you get very fresh, high-quality fish if you plan to eat it raw. You can ask for “sushi-grade” or “sashimi-grade” fish at the store to make sure it is safe to eat.

Ask an adult for assistance and wash your hands before you begin.

Prepare the rice:

1. With the help of an adult, place the rice and water in a small saucepan and bring to a boil. Once boiling, turn the heat to low and cover with a lid. After 15 minutes, turn off the heat and let it cool for 10 minutes, keeping the lid on to steam the rice.

2. Meanwhile, in a small bowl, stir the rice vinegar, sugar and salt together. Then heat the vinegar mixture in a microwave on high for 30 seconds or until the sugar and salt have dissolved. Alternatively, you can mix these ingredients together in a small saucepan on the stovetop with the help of an adult.

3. To help cool down the rice and make it shine, fan the rice as you add the vinegar mixture to it.

Prepare the toppings:

1. Ask an adult to help you slice your toppings into very thin pieces that are about 2½ inches long, 1 inch wide and ¼ inch thick.

• 1 cup short grain sushi rice, rinsed

• 1 cup water

• 1 Tbsp rice vinegar

• 1 Tbsp sugar

• ½ tsp salt

Topping ideas:

• cucumber

• avocado

• sashimi* (raw fish)

*sa-shee-mee

Make your sushi:

1. In a small bowl, add a little vinegar to cold water. Wet your hands with this mixture before making each new piece of sushi.

2. Place a small ball of sushi rice in your palm. Gently squeeze your fingers around the rice to form an oblong shape slightly smaller than your topping slices.

3. Join the topping with the rice by carefully gripping them together. As you do this, think of someone you adore. Repeat to create more sushi with kokoro.

34 ediblesandiego.com From the Heart
| created for family sharing Illustration
and text adapted from The Perfect Sushi (Barefoot Books), written by Emily Satoko Seo and illustrated by Mique Moriuchi

Guide for Cooking with Kids

Embracing imperfection is the key for successful collaboration with young chefs!

• Allow extra prep time Leave enough time for children to complete tasks at their natural (slower) pace.

• Gather ingredients and tools before you start Keep items just out of younger children’s reach, giving them one at a time as needed. Ask older kids to help gather the materials before starting.

• Encourage maximum independence Use a kitchen tower or stool to bring the child to the right height. Obtain child-sized cooking tools or select tools your child can use successfully with minimal supervision.

• Expect messes

Kids learn by trying, so allow them to make mistakes! You can minimize mess by spreading dish towels flat under your child’s work area.

• Lead with your heart

Your child will remember how it felt to cook with you more than how the dish turned out. Reassure older children that effort and thought are more important than a perfect final product.

Learn more about Japanese culture and Miko’s story at barefootbooks.com/perfect-sushi

For her grandmother’s birthday party, Miko wants to make her the perfect sushi, but not a single piece looks perfect

Phrases to Use:

• “Wow you worked really hard on that.”

• (calm and friendly) “Here’s a towel to clean that up.”

• “Look how much of this meal you prepared!”

• “Would you like to help serve the meal?”

SPRING 2023 | edible SAN DIEGO 35
is created in partnership with indie, award-winning, Concord, MA-based children’s publisher, Barefoot Books. Learn more by visiting www.barefootbooks.com.
. . .
. . . until she creates one with kokoro (heart). Illustration and text adapted from The Perfect Sushi (Barefoot Books), written by Emily Satoko Seo and illustrated by Mique Moriuchi. Guide for Cooking with Kids written by Stefanie Paige Wieder, M.S.Ed.

Kind Deeds Coupons

Give someone you love a gift of kindness.

Adult Helper Needed!

You , ll Need:

• paper

• scissors

• markers • stapler

1. Fold a piece of paper in half, then fold it in half again. Unfold it and cut along the folds to make four rectangles.

2. Repeat with two more sheets of paper so that you have 11 rectangles for coupons, plus one rectangle for a front cover.

3. Which family member would you like to give your coupons to? What kind deeds would they appreciate? Write or draw one idea on each coupon. For example:

• I will give you a hug

• We can read a story together

• You can choose a game to play

4. Decorate the cover and write your family member’s name on it.

5. Stack the coupons with the cover on top. With an adult helper, staple them together into a booklet.

6. Give your coupon book to your family member. They can choose when and where to use their Kind Deeds Coupons.

36 ediblesandiego.com
ACTIVITY
is created in partnership with indie, award-winning, Concord, MA-based children’s publisher, Barefoot Books. Learn more by visiting www.barefootbooks.com. Illustration and text adapted from Kind Kids (Barefoot Books), written by Dr. Helen Maffini and Whitney Stewart and illustrated by Mariana Ruiz Johnson Discover 50 activities for cultivating kindness in the Kind Kids activity deck at barefootbooks.com/kind-kids
From the Heart
SPRING 2023 | edible SAN DIEGO 37 Your destination for local produce, unique food and events. 314 DEER SPRINGS ROAD, SAN MARCOS Check out this week’s harvest!

Pauma Tribal Farms Celebrating the fruits of the land

When a place and a people embody thousands of years of flow, we are especially grateful to share a snapshot of how a farm can reflect this local tribe’s history, values, and future.

A new generation of tribal members are tending vineyards using regenerative practices. Producing quality wines offers a new way to transform the beauty of the valley into sustainable income for the tribe while creating a culinary destination.

GROW |
38 ediblesandiego.com
From left: Andrew Madrigal, Farm Manager; Amanda Subish, Garden Supervisor; Tribal Chairman Temet Majel; Edward Calac, Vineyard Supervisor.

Pauma Tribal Farms offers a CSA (Community Supported Agriculture) program enabling each tribal member to enjoy a bag of fresh produce each week. People’s preferences and needs differ, but one tribal family with a vegan and a vegetarian in the household gets a bag each, which they love!

The farm rotates vegetables with the valley’s pronounced seasons and also supplies the Pauma Casino with some extremely local produce. Recently, restaurant diners couldn’t get enough of their tempura green beans fresh from the farm.

Olive varieties including Mission, Ascolana, Frantoio, Leccino, Pendolina, and Picual offer diversity as the tribe explores partnerships to harvest and process the fruits into oils authentic to Pauma Valley.

| GROW
COURTESY OF AMANDA SUBISH COURTESY OF AMANDA SUBISH

“The old ones said, ‘Pauma is the home where life from the mountains and streams formed a people whose strength comes from the heart of the earth.’”

“Pauma Valley is an oasis, a little slice of heaven. The farms are just one of the ways we want the world to know that we are about so much more than only gaming. Caring for the land has always been part of our culture. Today, we choose to enhance the farm to keep the land in a natural state and benefit the tribe’s health along the way.”

— Temet Majel, Pauma Tribal Chairman

GROW |
— Patricia Dixon, Pauma Tribal Council Secretary

“Last year, the first gathering at the farm since COVID brought tribal members of all ages together with a 5K walk, footraces, and raffles. Guests enjoyed produce from the farm, traditional foods like wiiwish and some modifications of these dishes such as a bread made from acorn flour. The event was so successful, we’ll do it again this year in combination with Earth Day.”

“In a nutshell, the garden is about building food security for Pauma tribal members. Regenerative practices make sense given our Native American ways. Nature is a teacher for me. I must be humble, fluid, and often improvise.”

— Amanda Subish, Garden Supervisor

“Including Cabernet, Savignon, Merlot, Viognier, Caminari noir, Errante noir, and Pasante noir grapes, we’re innovating to produce wines unique to our indigenous land.”

— Edward Calac, Vineyard Supervisor

| GROW
For more information about Pauma Tribal Farms, visit paumatribe.com or find @pauma_tribal_farm on Instagram.

Your special occasion deserves a special location!

Tucked away among the beautiful hills of San Marcos, TERI Campus of Life is an exceptional location offering full-service, customizable indoor and outdoor spaces perfect for any social event. We'll bring our flavorful, farm-fresh fare and elevated service to ensure you and your guests have an unforgettable experience.

555 Deer Springs Road, San Marcos, CA 92069 | 858.356.4546 | events@teriinc.org

Celebrate local, regenerative, and delicious! The Plot is perfect for a quick lunch, an intimate evening, or a large gathering. Reservations and catering options available at theplotrestaraunt.com. 1733 South Coast Hwy., Oceanside, CA 92054 • 442-266-8200 • @theplotrestaurant.com Social Media Icons 2017 Updated

Benefits of Bokashi

Composting comes with

Calling all soil lovers out there!

perks

The bokashi lifestyle is a journey toward building healthy soil, a daily practice of collecting kitchen scraps to create a beneficial resource that feeds the soil. Bokashi is the perfect introduction to witness firsthand the benefits of living soil. It’s easy for budding soil lovers and great for experienced gardeners too. For those interested in or committed to closing the loop and recycling nutrients right back into the soil, adding bokashi to your daily routine could be right up your alley.

Bokashi has many benefits: It’s simple, fast, affordable, and compact enough to be done just about anywhere, even inside your home. It’s also versatile, meaning that any person, couple, family, community, school, business, restaurant, homestead, or farm interested in taking full responsibility for all of their food waste can learn how. Skip the green bin and learn to safely process your valuable food waste at home. If you can chop your food, you can learn to bokashi. To get started, you need buckets with airtight lids, food scraps, and bokashi bran.

Bokashi bran is the key ingredient to bokashi. It allows you to safely preserve or pickle all your food waste. A form of regenerative gardening, bokashi keeps all food out of the landfill and quickly returns nutrients back into the soil faster than cold composting, worm bins, and hot compost. Unlike aerobic composting methods, bokashi uses anaerobic fermentation in a sealed bucket containing layers of food waste with bokashi bran. Nontraditional composting inputs like meat, fish, dairy, eggs, shells, bones, grains, fats, processed foods, moldy food, soiled oily papers, and lots of fruits and veggies are added, and after a few weeks it ferments and creates bokashi pre-compost, a fabulous soil amendment. A successful bucket is pathogen-free and will smell acidic, or sour with a whiff of vinegar, and never putrid. Select a fallow area to bury the bokashi pre-compost. Always mix it well with soil first, then bury it underground and cover with additional soil. Water, and walk away. No carbon, no turning needed. Wait two weeks before planting. After bokashi decomposes underground, the soil structure improves, holding onto moisture for longer. Plants are happier with bokashi.

Bokashi has many uses. It’s a game changer for passionate composters. Now you know the secret ingredient to successful hot compost piles: Use bokashi as a nitrogen-rich compost starter. Bokashi is a natural fertilizer to trench around the drip line of fruit trees and perennials. With care, you can also feed worm composting bins. The bokashi bran can also be used as a natural

One cup of bokashi bran can ferment five gallons or 25 pounds of food waste.

deodorizer sprinkled into litter boxes, chicken runs, or animal bedding. Add bran directly into your cold or hot compost piles for a fungal boost. Bran is also added directly into garden soil to help plants uptake nutrients faster.

The bokashi practice isn’t new; it’s been around since the 1980s and was discovered by Dr. Teruo Higa who developed a concoction of microbes called Essential Microbes or EM-1. These microbes are what make bokashi possible. The practice is used all over the globe and is becoming more popular through word of mouth and demonstration workshops.

Local producers use the EM-1 formula to create a high-quality inoculated product called bokashi bran. The bokashi bran carries common strains of bacteria found in our everyday environment like lactobacillus fed with sugars like molasses. EM-1 is skillfully applied to various carriers such as recovered rice hulls, sawdust, or brewers’ draff. It is then dried in the beautiful San Diego sunshine to be packed up later for purchase. Keep it dry out of light and bokashi bran will last up to a year or longer.

If you are ready to transform food scraps into your own bokashi pre-compost soil amendment, turn to the next page for a how-to with step-by-step instructions and see below for an upcoming workshop to help you get started on your zero food waste journey.

SPRING 2023 | edible SAN DIEGO 43
BOKASHI BRAN
According to the EPA, the average person produces 219 pounds of food waste per year.
A
household of four needs two gallons of bokashi bran to ferment and process 800 pounds of food waste or 32 five-gallon buckets per year. BOKASHI BRAN
| GROW
Upcoming Workshop Introduction to Bokashi When Earth Day Saturday, April 22, 2023 at 10:30am Teacher Me, bokashi enthusiast Stacey Messina Hosted by The Golden Door Country Store Located at 314 Deer Springs Road, San Marcos, CA

HOW TO BOKASHI

STEP 1 — FILL THE BUCKET

To try this zero food waste method, collect a variety of roughly chopped inputs in a countertop kitchen caddy with a lid. Do not add liquids. Throw in all leftover raw or cooked kitchen scraps. This includes nontraditional composting inputs like meat, fish, dairy, eggs, shells, bones, grains, fats, processed foods, moldy food, soiled oily papers, and lots of fruits and vegetables. The smaller the chopped pieces, the better.

Add ¼ cup of bokashi bran to the bottom of a clean bucket. No more than once a day, empty the contents of the kitchen caddy into the first bucket. Add 1 tablespoon of bokashi bran after every 2-inch layer of food. Sprinkle the bran evenly to make contact with all food scrap surfaces. Use a masher to push down and remove air pockets. Wipe the bucket lid and rim before sealing. Repeat until the bucket is full.

STEP 2 — FERMENTATION

Once full, place the bucket in a dark cupboard, under the sink, or in the garage away from the elements or large temperature swings. Label the seal date as well as the open date (two weeks later). During fermentation, the microorganisms in the bran require ambient temperatures to quickly predigest the sugars and carbs to prevent decay and putrefaction of the food waste. In temperatures below 65°, fermentation will take longer. The anaerobic fermentation process eliminates the risk of harmful pathogens and unpleasant odors. With practice, you will learn when it is ready to bury in the soil. White fungal blooms and a sour pickle smell are good.

STEP 3 — BUCKET ROTATION

Begin bucket #2 while bucket #1 is sealed and fermenting. Most households use a 2 to 3 bucket rotation. Rotate the buckets as you fill, ferment, and empty them.

STEP 4 — HOW TO BURY BOKASHI PRE-COMPOST

First, dig and prepare a hole or a trench in the ground or raised bed or compost pile. Next, empty the bucket and mix it with soil using a 1:1 ratio. Then, cover it with an additional 6 inches of soil and add water. That’s it! No turning and no carbon ratios are needed unless you add to a traditional compost pile. Wait two weeks before planting. Dig in and discover that most of the bokashi has disappeared into the soil almost as if melting away.

TOOLS FOR BOKASHI

SUCCESS

Stacey Messina is the owner of Seed & Trellis in San Marcos and offers bokashi education downloads, composting consultations, and a bokashi and composting support group, all of which are free. Find bokashi supplies and starter kits at seedandtrellis.com.

1

¼ cup and 1 teaspoon to measure bran, masher or 3-claw hand rake

ADDITIONAL NEEDS

Storage with ambient temperatures for fermentation

Area to bury and additional soil to cover

2 HDPE buckets and 2 screw-top lids BOKASHI BRAN Bokashi bran Kitchen caddy, chopping board, and knife
PRO TIP
CUP OF BOKASHI BRAN CAN FERMENT ONE BUCKET OF SCRAPS
GROW |
44 ediblesandiego.com

Are You a Flower Eater?

Let‘s put more petals on plates

Literally under our noses is the delicious and delightful tradition of incorporating edible flowers into our meals. Our ancestors knew the pleasures of cooking with and enjoying edible flowers. Flowers were added to salads and soups. Other traditional preparations include dandelion wine, elderberry cordials, rose petal jam, and medicinal syrups of thyme, lavender, or mint. Edible flowers have long been appreciated for their beauty as well as their medicinal and nutritional properties. Adding a sprinkle of edible flowers to your meals brings a bit of colorful magic to the table. Most of us have enjoyed flowers as food or drink. If you have ever had the delicious jamaica (hibiscus) agua fresca, a stuffed squash blossom, a cup of chamomile or lavender tea, or peppery nasturtium flowers in a salad, you’ve tried an edible flower. Growing a few different edible flowers in your garden or a container is completely attainable for most people. From a colorful pansy to a wild, weedlike dandelion, incorporating edible flowers into your meals and garden is simple and fun.

Important safety tips

Always know the conditions under which edible flowers were grown. Flowers sold for arrangements at the grocery store or florist should never be eaten. Do not harvest unless you are certain the plants were never sprayed. It’s also essential that you are sure of the species. Anyone can have a reaction to a plant or flower, so it’s always best to taste a small amount first. In sum, use common sense. If in doubt, don’t eat it. If you feel like you are having a reaction to an edible flower, discontinue use.

Easy-to-grow, easy-to-eat flowers

Calendula

The flower petals have a mildly spicy, peppery, pungent flavor. Also known as “poor man’s Saffron” as it adds a warm orange color to savory dishes. Lovely tossed into salads. Does well in full sun and reseeds for abundant blooms the next year. Harvest flowers regularly to increase blooms. May be dried and stored in a glass jar for use throughout the year.

These striking blue violet star-like flowers taste similar to a mild cucumber. Freeze whole flowers in ice cubes for a special look in cocktails or punches. Grows easily in the garden and reseeds itself.

Thought of as a weed, but has a storied tradition as a food or medicine. All parts of the plant are edible, from flowers to root. Check out recipes for dandelion wine or flower fritters and use the greens in salads; the dried roots are used medicinally and as a coffee substitute. Best to grow your own from seed as the muchmaligned dandelion is heavily sprayed with pesticides.

46 ediblesandiego.com
TAKEAWAY |
(Calendula officinalis) Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale) Borage (Borago officinalis) Drying Calendula.

Nasturtium (Nasturtium officinale)

The flowers are mildly peppery. Leaves, stems, and even the green seed pods are edible and have a stronger, zingier flavor, making them great for salads. The flowers are a wonderful garnish—use whole or shred the petals, and serve as soon as possible after picking. Adorn salads or press flowers into cheeses, butters, or desserts. The trailing vines grow heartily but die back quickly at summer’s end.

Surprise—these three are also edible

These common flowers have been used in a variety of cultures.

Bougainvillea (Bougainvillea spectabilis and Bougainvillea glabra)

Roses (Rosaceae spp.)

If you grow your own roses organically, using the petals in a variety of ways is sublime. A favorite preparation of herbalists is to pour honey over fresh organic rose petals and allow to steep until a syrup is created, 7-10 days. Strain and use the rose syrup as you would honey or to flavor teas, cocktails, and desserts.

Violets (Viola odorata) or Pansies (Viola tricolor)

Huge variety of colors, mildly flavored, delightful subtle scent. These are perfect for coating in sugar and using for decorations, or scatter the petals in salads or as a colorful garnish on desserts, cheese boards, etc. Easy to grow, but prefers shady, cool areas, which is sometimes challenging to find in Southern California.

Daylilies (Hemerocallis spp.)

Beautiful and abundant bougainvillea originated in eastern South America and is native to Brazil, Peru, and Argentina. It’s famously used in Mexico and South America as a tea during cold and flu season and is especially helpful in calming a cough. After the tea is made, lime juice and honey are added. If you want to try this tea, I recommend purchasing dried flowers from a known retailer. Bougainvillea has been extensively hybridized and only certain species should be consumed.

Beloved in China, daylilies (Hemerocallis citrina) have been eaten there for centuries and are best eaten cooked. Daylilies have been cultivated extensively as an ornamental plant. If you choose to grow your own for cooking, look for a plant in the Hemerocallis species family. A common preparation of daylilies is to harvest the unopened buds and gently sauté them in olive oil with a bit of onion or garlic.

Yucca Flowers (Yucca aloifolia)

Flower-fetti

This is a fun recipe project to make with children (or the young at heart) and is the perfect edible decoration for a special cake, dessert, or meal. The day you plan to use the flower-fetti, gather fresh blossoms—a colorful combination of calendula, pansies or violets, nasturtiums, and borage is nice. Gently pull the petals off and fill a small bowl. If some of the flower petals are very large, snip them into smaller pieces with kitchen shears.

Mix gently and sprinkle on top of a frosted cake or cupcakes, or garnish salads, appetizers, or anything you like. This is an unexpected visual delight and looks as lovely as it tastes.

The entire plant was traditionally used across the Southwest. The young flowers can be incorporated into salads and eaten fresh. The flavor is cool, mildly aromatic, and crispy. Check for small bugs before eating the flower petals. Harvesting the flowers is challenging—beware the spiky leaves at the root of the plant.

Become a flower eater

I hope some of these suggestions inspire you to try edible flowers. A pleasant way to start is to choose a flower that appeals to you and grow a few either in your garden and or in a pot. Experiment with incorporating the flowers into your meals. This ancient practice brings color, flavor, and nutrition to meals. s

Cindy Saylor is an herbalist and nutritionist with over 1,000 hours of training in herbalism and vitalism. She’s lived in San Diego most of her life and loves to spend time in nature, garden, cook, travel, explore art, and hang out with her human, animal, and plant families. Find her on Instagram @everydayplantmagic.

SPRING 2023 | edible SAN DIEGO 47
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Spring Word Play

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Appreciation for These Businesses

Thank you to our advertisers. Readers, please patronize these supporters of our vibrant local food system.

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Answer key on page 5.

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WELLNESS LANDSCAPE

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resident Myles
is one of the top crossword and puzzle writers in the world. He has published over
crossword and word search books, producing dozens of puzzles each month.
Mellor
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San Diego County Vintners Association

2023 VINTNERS WINE FESTIVAL

The annual San Diego County Vintners Wine Festival caps off San Diego Wine Week, a week-long celebration of San Diego wines and wineries. It is the only wine festival exclusively showcasing San Diego Wines.

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