Edible San Diego To Good Days Ahead Winter 2021–2022 Issue 64

NO. 64 WINTER 2021-22 LIMITED EDITION

edible

EAT • DRINK • READ • GROW

SAN DIEGO

TO GOOD DAYS AHEAD FARM TO SCHOOL • CHEF BREAKFASTS AT HOME • LOCAL BAKERY GUIDE SERVING SAN DIEGO COUNTY | MEMBER OF EDIBLE COMMUNITIES | EDIBLESANDIEGO.COM



F R E S H • S E A S O N A L • LOC A L

N O W O P E N E V E R Y T U E S - F R I : 1 1 – 6 & S AT- S U N : 9 – 4

314 Deer Springs Road, San Marcos FARM FRESH PRODUCE • KITCHEN ESSENTIALS • GIFTS • COMMUNITY EVENTS

@ Golden Door Country Store

FRESH POKE SELECTIONS (New Menu Items Daily)

THE MARKET AT HFS

SHOYU AHI

HAWAIIAN

BLUEFIN

FIRECRACKER SALMON

FURIKAKE SALMON

GARLIC SALMON

ALAHAO SPECIAL

ONOLICIOUS

Authentic Hawaiian-Style Poke & Local Seafood Open Daily 10am-4pm 6491 Weathers Place San Diego, CA

(858) 282-0591 Daily Fresh Fish Lunch Specials!

Fresh Poke Cut & Mixed Daily

CALIFORNIA

FRESH PLATE LUNCH SPECIALS

Fresh-Off-The-Boat Local Seafood FISH & CHIPS

Complete Menu & Lunch Specials Posted Daily

@TheMarketHFS

FISH TACOS

FISH BURGER

FRESH-OFF-THE-BOAT LOCAL SEAFOOD

AHI TUNA

OPAH

SWORDFISH

WINTER 2021-2022 |

edible SAN DIEGO 1

Winter 2021-22

CONTENTS

Issue 64

O N THE COVER

Chef and writer Ryan Rizzuto fought with siblings over the last crumbs of the apple cider doughnuts that inspired his recipe.

Story starts on page 10.

T HI S I MAG E

Prepare doughnut dough in the evening and chill in the fridge for up to 12 hours.

They’ll be ready to fry up fresh in the morning.

Recipe on page 11.

IN T HIS ISSUE DE PARTMENTS

WHAT TO LOOK FOR ON EDIBLESANDIEGO.COM

4 Publisher’s Note

READ

LI VING LOCAL

• • • +

6

7

Hot Dish: Global Breakfast Traditions Meet Local Sourcing Liquid Assets: Rise-and-Shine Morning Drinks Gordon’s Gift Guide for Wine Lovers

LI STEN

Living Local Podcast

E AT ING WELL

WATCH ON YO U T U B E

8 Sitting at the Kids’ Table

• Sweet and Sticky Pineapple Pork Ribs • Baked Brie with Spiced Persimmon and Pears • Tide to Table in San Diego: Saraspe Seafood and Juniper & Ivy • Immunity-Boosting Citrus and Radicchio Salad • Easy Apple Raspberry Tart for Two

LOC AL ATTRACTION S

28 Local Markets Guide TAK EAWAY

30 Local Bakery Guide F E ATURES

10 Good Morning Crew 14 Overnight Sensations 16 Huevos de Cuatro Maneras E D I BLE COMMUNITI ES S I G NATURE SECTIO N

20

2

Winter Ramen Hacks The Story of Water in Southern California Izola Bakery’s Small-Batch Delights New Winter Recipes

We Are What We Eat: It’s Time to Make Food Decisions With the Climate Crisis in Mind ediblesandiego.com

Woof ‘n Rose Winery RAMONA VALLEY

Specializing in red wines made only from estate grown and other Ramona Valley grapes.

National and international award-winning wine.

Tasting veranda open Sat. and Sun. and by appointment. marilyn@woofnrose.com 760-788-4818 woofnrose.com

WINTER 2021-2022 |

edible SAN DIEGO 3

Publisher’s Note |

Rise Up

I

EDITORIAL Katie Stokes Editor in Chief

t’s winter in San Diego County. While others may scoff as we reach for sweaters the minute temperatures dip below 70°, this is the season when, hopefully, enough rain falls to make the brown hills green. What we may lack in spectacular foliage or chill hours (for fruit trees), we make up for with a bountiful season in the garden and farmers’ markets, and some of the year’s best weather to enjoy time outside.

However you spend your winter days, we wanted to dedicate this issue to mornings in the kitchen. Whether you’re a firm believer that it’s the most important meal of the day or not, we gathered a tasty and fitting array of options for breaking a fast. Because we are where we are, breakfast choices must include riffs on Mexican dishes and other options that reflect people’s distinct family, cultural, and geographical traditions. We refuse to choose between carbs and proteins because that decision is up to you, so you will see some grains, eggs, and gluten-free options, with an invitation to innovate to your taste.

From a special guest food editor, we learn how a local school district connects students with farms, gardening, and the fun of trying new foods at school.

With a nod to the holidays, we offer gift ideas with a viticultural theme.

Also, we present the third in a series of thought-leadership stories produced with Edible Communities. In partnership with Civil Eats, this feature explores how what we eat every day connects with the changing climate.

Last but not least, I want to thank you for sharing your 2021 journey with us. We aim to make this quarterly magazine, our evolving website, active social media channels, and emails enriching to your life. We feel immense gratitude to the companies who have advertised with us this year; it’s an honor and a pleasure to tell the world how great you are.

If you agree that stories and recipes highlighting the local, seasonal food scene here in San Diego County matter in your life, then the team here at Edible San Diego invites you to visit our channels often, purchase a membership for yourself or as a gift, and advertise with us if you can.

Wishing you, and all our diverse neighbors around us, wellness and delicious times together with your favorite people this holiday season and in the new year.

Katie Stokes Publisher and Editor in Chief, Edible San Diego PS: Congrats to all the media and journalism professionals celebrated by the San Diego Press Club in 2021. We’re still in shock to be recognized 17 times for Excellence in Journalism in 2021. That’s 36 awards in three years with a small editorial team and freelance writers, photographers, and artists who are passionate about promoting the virtues of local food. (It’s almost like we’re the little food magazine that could.)

Maria Hesse Executive Editor Dawn Mobley Copy Editor

Rose Fox

Associate Editor Janelle Manzano Guest Food Editor

DESIGN Cheryl Angelina Koehler Designer

PUBLISHER Katie Stokes

OPERATIONS Rose Fox

ADVERTISING SALES Deborah Garcia deborah@ediblesandiego.com Simon Weinberg simon@ediblesandiego.com Katie Stokes katie@ediblesandiego.com No part of this publication may be used without written permission from the publisher. © 2021 All rights reserved.

Every effort is made to avoid errors, misspellings, and omissions. If an error comes to your attention, please let us know and accept our sincere apologies.

Thank you for supporting your local food media company.

COVER PHOTO BY BHADRI KUBENDRAN CONTACT

Edible San Diego 1501 San Elijo Rd. South #104-210 San Marcos, CA 92078 601-526-1919 info@ediblesandiego.com 2017 Updated ediblesandiego.com

Social Media Icons 2017 Updated Social Media Icons Social Media Icons 2017 Updated @ediblesd

@ediblesandiego

4

ediblesandiego.com

@ediblesandiego RO S E FOX

This magazine is made possible thanks to Edible San Diego advertisers, members, and subscribers. Thank you for supporting San Diego’s local, independently owned food media company.

Join today at ediblesandiego.com.

Cork & Knife is your one-stop-shop for fine wine and party platters. Our premium selection of wines, meats, and cheeses is hand selected by seasoned specialists. Stop by one of our three retail locations—Escondido, Rancho Sante Fe, and Clovis— to discover the finer things in life.

Visit corknknife.com for location details, available catering options and additional information.

WINTER 2021-2022 |

edible SAN DIEGO 5

Living Local |

Hot Dish

Global Breakfast Traditions Meet Local Sourcing

BY MICHELLE STANSBURY

A

round the world, different countries and cultures CC’s Chilaquiles from Adelaide. have varying traditions for breakfast. Broaden your breakfast fantasies beyond boring eggs and bacon to Filipino rice bowls, chilaquiles, and a signature avocado toast with these three global dishes found around San Diego.

Phillip Esteban’s Filipino food stall, White Rice, at Liberty Public Market features savory rice bowls known as silog. Try the Longanisa Silog with sweet pork sausage, atchara pickles, a fried Eben-Haezer egg, and garlic rice with sawsaw (a soy sauce and vinegar-based sauce). Longanisa is a favorite meal at home for chef Esteban and his family, who eat it two to three times a week for breakfast.

CC’s Chilaquiles is one of Adelaide’s most popular dishes. A San Diego take on the Mexican breakfast dish, Adelaide’s version is prepared with sunny-side-up eggs, salsa ranchera, salsa verde, sweet onion, crema, and avocado, with the option to add housemade chorizo.

Java Earth, the family-owned coffee shop in North Pacific Beach, named their signature item “Deb’s Toast” after co-owner Debbie Artenstein. Bread & Cie toast is topped with avocados from Henry Avocado, microgreens from Green Valley Herbs, pickled onions, cucumber, and a drizzle of lemon vinaigrette.

Liquid Assets Rise-and-Shine Morning Drinks

W

hether grabbing a quick smoothie on the way to work or indulging in a leisurely brunch cocktail, morning beverages are just as important as your meal.

The Baja-style Michelada at Stone Brewing Liberty Station and Escondido features Buenaveza Salt & Lime Lager combined with tomato juice and spices for a refreshing and low-ABV morning cocktail. Stone also offers their bottled Michelada Mix if you want to whip one up at home.

Can you guess what secret ingredient makes the Metl Maria this color?

​​North Park’s Metlbar Creamery & Cafe is best known for its boozy ice cream selection, but the café also has a great selection of Bloody Marys, including the jet black Metl Maria that gets its striking hue from squid ink. The cocktail is garnished with black salt, breakfast sausage, cheeses, crackers, celery, and shrimp.

Farmer & the Seahorse taps into produce grown in their own garden to create the King’s Greens Smoothie. The nutritious breakfast smoothie combines avocado, banana, dates, almond butter, and spinach for a healthy start to your day.

6

ediblesandiego.com

M I C H E L L E STA N S B U RY; C O U RT E S Y O F A D E L A I D E

BY MICHELLE STANSBURY

Gordon’s Gift Guide for Wine Lovers A sommelier’s dog recommends local presents made from wine grapes PHOTOGRAPHY BY FELICIA BALLI STORY BY GORDON (AS TOLD TO FELICIA)

G

ift giving should be simple—all anyone wants are chew toys and scratches, right? If you’re like me and surround yourself with wine lovers, you might find that they can be a selective breed. As a bone-a-fide expert in making humans happy, I sniffed out the paws-down best local gifts to make any wine aficionado feel spoiled this holiday season.

First on my list is locally produced Domaine Santé grape nectar sweetener, an all-natural sugar alternative made from wine grapes. The tongue-in-cheek names of each flavor bring to mind classic wine regions. Bored-O Blanc blends sémillon and sauvignon blanc to mirror the tangy and rich complexity of white wine from Bordeaux. The All-Sass sweetener is made from traditional Alsatian varieties like gewürztraminer and riesling, offering a delicate essence of honeysuckle that would complement any wild berry or stone fruit dessert. Substitute Bored-O Rouge for red vermouth to slightly lower the alcohol without sacrificing the taste of a negroni. With fewer calories and half the sugar of honey or agave nectar, Domaine Santé will make holiday desserts feel a little less naughty. Purchase a gift-sized set on their website or fetch the bottles at Collins & Coupe Cocktail Supply Co. Keep spirits high with You & Yours Distilling Co.’s Provisional Sunday Gin, distilled from grapes and aged in

Gordon loves giving Carter Estate Winery Blanc de Blanc and Blanc de Noir.

viognier wine barrels. This aging process incorporates the perfumed floral notes associated with viognier to the gin, making it a fun choice for wine lovers looking to stock their home bar.

Mix it up with Domaine Santé sweeteners for a heartwarming treat that might put some fur on your chest.

When deciding to gift a bottle of wine, how can you make sure your selection will be barking up the right tree? Look no further than the sparkling wines made by Carter Estate Winery in Temecula. These méthode classique wines are bottle fermented and aged on yeast to replicate the production methods used to make high-quality champagne. The result is a local wine that balances a traditional European style with the unique ripe flavors that can only come from California sunshine. Purchase online or bring the whole pack on a trip to the winery resort, where bonus points are awarded for their Happy Hound program.

Anyone on your list would be thrilled to receive a gift certificate to Smallgoods Cheese Shop & Cafe. The La Jolla shop sources American-made products from small producers that are nearly impossible to track down elsewhere. Wine enthusiasts can get their paws on pairing options such as hoja santa-wrapped goat cheese to serve alongside grüner veltliner or sauvignon blanc. While you’re there, be sure to order one of their impressive charcuterie boards for your holiday party. Bone-appétit!

Disclaimer: While the tasting notes and descriptions are accurately depicted, no dogs were served items for the purposes of this article.

Such items may be considered toxic to dogs but we hope you enjoy a laugh with us and dig up a few great gifts.

Gordon drools over cheese from Smallgoods Cheese Shop & Cafe and Domaine Santé grape nectar sweetener.

WINTER 2021-2022 |

edible SAN DIEGO 7

Eating Well |

Sitting at the Kids’ Table

San Diego Unified School District’s Farm to School promotes mindful eating and scratch-cooked lunches

BY JANELLE MANZANO PHOTOGRAPHY BY MARIA HESSE

W

hile farm-to-table has become a growing trend in the foodie world, Farm to School (F2S) programming has also grown in our local public school systems.

What is F2S exactly?

F2S consists of three elements: • Purchasing local foods as part of the school meal program • Nutrition education • School gardens

San Diego Unified School District (SDUSD) Food and Nutrition Services started incorporating F2S back in 2010 by placing salad bars in all of their cafeterias. Today, they are recognized nationally as leaders of F2S and participate in local food purchasing initiatives such as Harvest of the Month (HOTM) and California Thursdays, which provide students with fresh, nutritious meals cooked from scratch. In addition, they provide opportunities for nutrition education and school gardens.

HOTM encourages school food services to feature locally grown, inseason produce every month as part of their lunch program. HOTM is served on Wednesdays in SDUSD school cafes.

Some examples of SDUSD’s HOTM offerings include a variety of stone fruit such as apricots, nectarines, and plums in the summer, red-flame grapes and persimmons in the fall, and kumquats and peewee avocados in the spring.

This winter, for the months of December, January, and February, 8

ediblesandiego.com

students across the district will receive persimmons, golden kiwis, and Minneola tangelos as part of their lunch. Typically, nutrition assemblies or cafeteria tastetesting events complement HOTM offerings. During the pandemic, the district F2S program specialist began hosting virtual HOTM tastings. In these events, students learn about the HOTM’s nutritional benefits, watch a video about the farm and farmer, and sometimes practice a mindful eating exercise.

SDUSD Food and Nutrition Services strives to purchase as much California Food for California Kids (CFCK). This initiative from the Center for Ecoliteracy, a school food advocacy organization based in Berkeley, CA, is an expansion of the initiative California Thursdays, which serves meals that are entirely sourced from within the state to students on Thursdays.

SDUSD’s California Thursdays meal is a roasted free-range Mary’s chicken drumstick (raised in Sanger, CA) that’s seasoned with a chile-lime blend (SDUSD uses a low-sodium seasoning made just for students) and served with whole-grain bread from Giovanni’s Bakery in Carson, CA. Students will grab this entrée and head over to the salad bar where a varied and colorful array of fruits and vegetables wait to accompany their meal. Scratchmade spicy pickled carrots are a student favorite from the salad bar.

Why is F2S so awesome?

First, school food services like SDUSD are encouraged to support local farmers and food producers. Sourcing locally

not only means food is more fresh and nutritious, but it also pushes for more scratch-cooked meals. This is especially exciting because California just passed School Meals For All: Starting this school year, all students in California can receive school meals at no cost.

Second, nutrition education and school gardens (the other two elements of F2S) introduce students to healthy eating habits, culinary and gardening skills, and enhanced understanding of the environment.

SDUSD, as well as many other districts, offer opportunities for school gardens to connect with the cafeteria through programs like Garden to Cafe, which allows school-grown produce to be served in the salad bar. Another program, Cafe to Compost, supports the collection of cafeteria produce scraps to be composted at school sites.

What’s the best way to support your district’s F2S program?

It’s simple: Eat school meals. More student participation means more reimbursement dollars from the USDA, which funds child nutrition programs.

This money goes not only to purchasing local food but also to updating kitchen equipment and training staff.

You can watch all of SDUSD’s virtual HOTM field trips online at bit.ly/HOTMfieldtrips. Find more info about F2S and the F2S Collective at farmtoschoolcollective.org.

MINDFUL EATING EXERCISE Try mindful eating as a family or on your own. This activity is great for practicing slowing down when we eat to taste and appreciate the food nourishing us.

Afterward, reflect and encourage sharing to discuss what you tasted.

What does your food or snack look like?

ROA S T E D C H I L E - L I M E C H I C K E N D RU M S T I C K S From SDUSD’s California Thursdays Meal Program Serves 5

5 chicken drumsticks (shop CA-raised chicken when and if possible) 1 tablespoon chile-lime seasoning ½ tablespoon oil Preheat oven to 350°.* Place chicken drumsticks in a resealable plastic bag and sprinkle chile-lime seasoning over chicken; shake to completely coat all pieces.

(soft, hard, smooth, wrinkly)

Lightly spray or coat a roasting pan with oil, place seasoned chicken directly on it, and bake in the oven until internal temperature reaches 190°, 45 minutes to an hour.

Does it have a smell?

Serve with whole-grain bread or brown rice and spicy pickled carrots.

(size, colors, shape)

What does it feel like?

Now, let’s take a bite and taste.

Adjective Word Bank to Help Get You Started Smooth • Fuzzy • Bumpy • Firm Hard • Heavy • Light • Crunchy Crisp • Soft • Mushy • Fruity Juicy Dry • Tart • Sour • Tangy Delicious • Yummy • Tasty • Mild

*Optimal oven temperatures for roasting drumsticks range from 350°–450° and drumstick sizes can make cook times vary, so the best rule is to find what works for your oven, check internal cooking temperatures, and cook for as long as needed.

S P I CY P I C K L E D C A R RO T S SDUSD chef Juan Zamorano says these spicy pickled carrots are “great to save in the fridge for a snack throughout the week or pair with sandwiches, Mexican food, seafood, appetizers, and even as a topping for salads.”

Serves 15

Note: Due to food and staff shortages as a result of the pandemic, SDUSD’s current school lunch menus do not entirely reflect everything noted here. While salad bars have been paused for the moment, HOTM and a variety of fresh produce and packed salad options are still offered to students.

SDUSD thanks the community for continued support, understanding, and patience in rebuilding the F2S program.

5 pounds carrots, peeled and sliced into coins

Janelle Manzano is the Farm to School Program Specialist with San Diego Unified’s Food & Nutrition Services. She has been in this role for about three years while pursuing a master’s in public health from UC San Diego. She received her BS in clinical nutrition from UC Davis and taught nutrition, garden, and culinary education in Oakland, CA, through a service year with FoodCorps AmeriCorps. Her experience in connecting nutrition, health, food, and sustainability through education and promotion has shaped her interest in Farm to School programming. You can follow her work with SDUSD on Instagram @sdfarmtoschool.

In a large pot, boil carrots in water until tender, 12 to 15 minutes.

1 cup sliced canned jalapeños 6 tablespoons olive oil ½ teaspoon salt 1 cup sliced yellow onions

(Note: Raw carrots won’t absorb the flavors well and will take forever to pickle.)

Drain carrots and allow to cool, then mix all ingredients together. Store in a jar and refrigerate at least 1 hour before serving.

WINTER 2021-2022 |

edible SAN DIEGO 9

Good Morning Crew

Two San Diego chefs from South Jersey dish about food, family, and what makes for a good morning with your loved ones

BY RYA N R I Z Z U T O | P H O T O G R A P H Y BY B H A D R I K U B E N D R A N

I

t turns out that chef Brad Wise and I have a lot in common.

We hail from neighboring towns in South Jersey; we consider Italian food our love language; and we were both raised on pork roll, egg, and cheese sandwiches for breakfast. For those who have never had pork roll, you are in for a treat with chef Brad’s Fried Pork Roll with Roasted Potatoes, Fried Eggs, and Grilled Bread. The way the edges of the pork crackle and caramelize in the pan will have you shipping pork roll by the pound to the West Coast. Recently, Wise and I discussed our traditions of cooking breakfast for friends and family during the holiday season.

Wise starts his mornings at sunrise by pouring himself a tall, strong cup of coffee and walking the backyard with his daughter Charlie. When the neighborhood is still and the sky’s just turning an illuminating pink, they plan the day ahead, identify various bugs and animals that cross their path, and brainstorm their favorite meal: breakfast. For Charlie, waffles are preferred. For Wise, it’s usually a second cup of coffee and a light bite, if he’s lucky, before heading off to lead the various culinary concepts of Trust Restaurant Group.

In his childhood, Wise’s Cape May, New Jersey, home was the talk of the town for weekend breakfast. His mom was revered for her elaborate spread of corned beef and hash, fat piles of French toast, and, of course, pork roll, egg, and cheese sandwiches. All of Wise’s friends would fight to stay overnight on Fridays knowing that they would awake to the intoxicating smells of his mom’s famous breakfast spread.

In San Diego, Wise carries on these traditions and invents new ones with his wife and daughters. This time of year, they love to cruise around the neighborhood on their street-legal golf cart while sipping hot cocoa to view the holiday decorations and lights.

On weekend mornings, Wise invites friends and family over to serve up fresh takes on his childhood favorites. His newest winter tradition incorporates grilling and roasting fruits and vegetables over charcoal, and pairing them with glazed smoked pork.

In my neck of the woods in New Jersey, I was raised on apple cider doughnuts. These puffy, warm doughnuts are rolled in cinnamon sugar and served with hot coffee or mulled cider. We would buy them by the dozen and my three siblings and I would fight over the crumbs at the bottom of the bag.

From left: Brad Wise adds final touches breakfast. Ryan Rizzuto reduces buttermilk and apple butter for Apple Cider Doughnuts.

10

ediblesandiego.com

APPLE CIDER DOUGHNUTS Recipe by chef Ryan Rizzuto Yields 20–24 doughnuts

3 cups apple cider (I chose Smit Farms) ¼ cup maple syrup plus 1 tablespoon, divided 2 cinnamon sticks

⅔ cup apple butter ½ cup buttermilk 2 teaspoons vanilla extract 4 cups all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting 1 tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons baking powder ¼ teaspoon baking soda 1 teaspoon kosher salt 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon, plus 2 tablespoons, divided ½ teaspoon ground ginger ¼ teaspoon ground nutmeg 6 tablespoons butter, softened

⅔ cup brown sugar ¼ cup granulated sugar, plus 2½ cups, divided 2 large eggs 1 gallon peanut oil for frying In a large skillet over medium-high heat, boil apple cider, ¼ cup maple syrup, and cinnamon sticks until thick and syrupy, 20 to 30 minutes.

Transfer to a medium bowl and whisk in apple butter, buttermilk, and vanilla until smooth; set aside.

Whisk together flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt, cinnamon, ginger, and nutmeg in a medium bowl.

In an electric mixer on medium speed, beat together butter, brown sugar, and ¼ cup of granulated sugar until smooth, about 3 minutes.

With the mixer running, add the eggs one at a time, followed by 1 tablespoon maple syrup. Reduce the mixer speed to low and alternatively add half of the dry ingredients with half of the apple butter mixture until both are fully incorporated.

The resulting dough will be sticky, resembling cookie dough.

Transfer the dough to a rimmed sheet pan lined with parchment paper and floured generously. Flour hands to press the dough to evenly fill the sheet pan. Generously dust the top of the dough with flour and wrap tightly with plastic wrap. Refrigerate for at least 3 hours, or at most 12 hours, before shaping doughnuts.

When preparing to shape doughnuts, heat peanut oil in a Dutch oven to 350°.

Combine remaining granulated sugar and cinnamon in a rimmed baking dish or a takeout container.

Transfer the dough to a floured work surface or wood cutting board.

Fold the dough a few times, adding flour when sticky.

Press or roll out dough with a baking pin to ¼-inch thickness.

Using a large round biscuit cutter (3¼inch diameter), cut out as many doughnuts as possible from the dough. Using the smallest round biscuit cutter (1¼inch diameter) or a round household item of smaller diameter (I used a bottle cap), punch out the center of each round.

Prepare a sheet pan fitted with a cooling rack and fry the first round of doughnuts in the heated oil. Carefully place the cut dough in the oil as it will be dangerously hot.

Fry until deep golden brown on both sides, about 2½ minutes per side, flipping gently using a chopstick.

Remove from oil with a pair of chopsticks or a handheld strainer and place on cooling rack. Allow to cool slightly before tossing in cinnamon sugar. Fry the dough centers as doughnut holes or combine them into the main dough.

Continue until all the dough is used.

Enjoy warm with hot cider or coffee, and store for up to 3 days in an airtight container or freeze for up to 1 month.

WINTER 2021-2022 |

edible SAN DIEGO 11

The holidays were always a big affair in my family with more aunts, uncles, and cousins than one could count, and the holiday table was as overflowing as the living room in my grandparents’ tiny cottage.

Post-holiday breakfasts were sure to include raisin walnut sticky buns, crispy bacon, fried scrapple, and buttermilk pancakes.

At my new home in San Diego, I still cook the classics but add modern flairs to my favorite dishes. Inspired by Charlie’s favorite waffle breakfast, I crafted a Vegan “Chicken” ‘n’ Waffles recipe that even my carnivorous friends enjoy. Fried local golden oyster mushrooms are the perfect substitute for chicken, and nitro cold brew coffee adds a boost of flavor to my oat milk waffle recipe.

As chefs, Wise and I have gleaned some expert tactics on cooking breakfast for a crowd in commercial kitchens that also apply at home. Chef Wise suggests learning how long each recipe takes to make before heading into the kitchen so that each dish comes out in unison, hot and ready.

To master this, I suggest assembling your mise en place (measure out all of your ingredients ahead of time to ensure that “everything is in its place”) before beginning to cook.

Wherever and with whomever you spend your holiday mornings with, be sure to make them delicious.

Find the recipes for Fried Pork Roll with Roasted Potatoes, Fried Eggs, and Grilled Bread from Brad Wise, and Vegan “Chicken” ‘n’ Waffles by Ryan Rizzuto only on ediblesandiego.com. To taste the work of chef Brad Wise @chefbwise, visit Trust Restaurant @trustrestaurantsd.

Ryan Rizzuto is a chef and entrepreneur in San Diego. You can taste his work at his own soul food pop-up, Southside Biscuits, or at local nonprofit Kitchens for Good.

Follow him on Instagram @chefryanrizzuto and his soul food and public events @southsidebiscuits.

Certified Organic, Heritage Beans Grown Locally in Valley Center

Business Hours: Mon–Sat, 9am–5pm PST 760.749.8177 • riodelreybeans.com

12

ediblesandiego.com

Stop Pollution at the Source

| Partner Content

P

lastic is a problem before it reaches the beach. Extraction, production, consumption, and disposal all carry serious environmental and humanitarian consequences. Single-use plastic is particularly detrimental as bags, bottles, straws, expanded polystyrene foam, and food wrappers consistently top the list of items our volunteers collect at cleanups. Researchers estimate up to 11 million metric tons of plastic waste is entering the ocean every year and that by 2025, 11 billion metric tons will have accumulated in the environment. (Sources can be found on Beachapedia.) This pollution is impacting both humans and our marine ecosystems. Plastic fragments are even displacing plankton as the base of the food chain.

While the problem may be complex, the solution is simple—we need to stop plastic at the source! The Surfrider Foundation’s Ocean Friendly Restaurants program (OFR) does just that. We recognize restaurants that are committed to cutting out wasteful single-use plastic and offer a simple, straightforward framework to help them make sustainable choices for our ocean. The result is a community of like-minded restaurants we can promote, support, and lift up as examples of success to influence plastic reduction legislation. The larger we grow our network of Ocean Friendly leaders, the more mainstream the concept of plastic-free becomes.

OFR Holiday Dining Guide To help promote our OFRs during this upcoming holiday season, we are putting together a list of current OFRs to share via @surfriderSD and under Events on ediblesandiego.com.

Surfrider San Diego Chapter is grateful for Edible San Diego’s continued support. They have been a longtime promoter of the OFR program. Thank you Edible San Diego!

Introducing Ocean Friendly To-Go A win/win/win solution for restaurants, customers, and our ocean. The concept is straightforward: Restaurants simply prepare guest orders on reusable dinnerware, and customers transfer the order themselves into their own containers at a designated area.

Seriously, it’s that easy. sandiego.surfrider.org/ocean-friendly-to-go WINTER 2021-2022 |

edible SAN DIEGO 13

Overnight Sensations Why overnight oats should be your go-to breakfast

BY KAI OLIVER-KURTIN

S

ince lunch and dinner are known to take a bit of planning and prep, no-hassle breakfasts made ahead of time are the secret to low-stress morning routines. It’s no wonder overnight oats, chia puddings, granola parfaits, and other quick breakfast recipes are in demand for those on the go.

“Oats are so versatile,” says Kris Schlesser, founder of LuckyBolt, a local farm-to-front-door meal prep service that offers overnight oats and housemade granola as part of its weekly menu.

“With overnight oats, the texture is more complex since they’re not cooked over heat, which can cause them to be sticky and homogeneous.

The preparation of overnight oats gives you a rich, creamy texture, and the oats have a bit more chew,” explains Schlesser.

He says oats are trending right now because they’re healthy, and people are typically receptive to taking care of their bodies.

“People will do the right thing if you make it easy for them—that’s our motto at LuckyBolt,” he says. “After everyone was done overindulging at the beginning of the pandemic, I think they thought it was time to balance things out a bit more at home.”

Ready to make your own nutritious overnight oats?

Follow this recipe from LuckyBolt.

14

ediblesandiego.com

L U C K Y B O LT ’ S H O M E M A D E OAT M I L K Makes 5 pints oat milk

1 cup rolled oats 4 cups water 1¼ teaspoons salt Optional flavorings (see below) Soak oats in water for 1 to 2 hours. Transfer to a high-speed blender, along with salt and optional flavors (see below), and blend into a smooth, homogeneous consistency. There’s no need to strain this mixture.

Oat milk pro tip: If in a hurry, simply add dry oats and water to the blender without soaking and you will still get a good result. The mixture is a bit smoother if you allow the oats to hydrate before blending. Also, flex this oat milk recipe with preferred sweeteners or flavors and make it your own.

Citrus Spice Oat Milk Flavoring ½ teaspoon ground cardamom 1 teaspoon orange zest

Cinnamon Vanilla Oat Milk Flavoring 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon 1 teaspoon vanilla extract

An Essential Guide to Overnight Oats What are they?

Overnight oats are prepared rolled oats that are hydrated (not cooked) until softened, creating a porridge that can be spruced up with different toppings and flavors.

What makes them a healthy breakfast option?

L U C K Y B O LT ’ S OV E R N I G H T OAT P O R R I D G E Yields 5 pint jars, one for each weekday

5 16-ounce glass jars with lids 2½ cups rolled oats, divided 5 teaspoons chia seeds, divided Prepare 5 clean glass jars by adding ½ cup of dry rolled oats and 1 teaspoon of chia seeds to each jar. Pour 1 cup of oat milk into each jar and apply lids tightly. There should be some remaining space in the jar.

Shake each jar to mix the dry oats and chia seeds with the oat milk. Refrigerate jars for at least 2 hours while the dry oats and chia seeds hydrate. The longer you wait, the creamier the resulting consistency will be.

You can take the oats any direction from this point but here are a few ideas:

Oats are packed with dietary fiber, which can help lower your cholesterol, and the preparation of overnight oats makes them easily digestible. Using alternative nut milks can make for an even healthier version.

Are they easy to make?

Yes! Most people prepare them in the evening and let the oats soak in their fridge overnight for a quick grab-and-go breakfast, though the oats should be ready to eat after just a few hours.

Are they only served as a cold porridge?

Overnight oats can be heated in the microwave and served warm, added to smoothies as a thick and creamy oat base, or served as a hearty drink by adding extra liquid.

What are some popular toppings or added flavors?

Quick & healthy: Simply enjoy the oats just as they are straight from the jar. This is an excellent low-sugar, fiberpacked breakfast or snack. If you prefer to avoid sugary foods, you’ll find these will hit the spot without adding much else to them.

Peanut or almond butter, nuts, seeds, fruit preserves, vanilla, cardamom, cinnamon, and orange zest are all great options for toppings. Don’t forget to season with salt.

Quick & healthy + a little sweet: Add sliced fruit or berries along with nuts or seeds. You can use fresh or dried fruit such as raisins, chopped dates, apricots, etc. Add a little drizzle of honey or maple syrup if you want a touch of sweetness. If you don’t have fresh fruit, you can also add a few spoonfuls of jam or fruit preserves.

Overnight oats can last in the fridge for up to five days and will keep as long as they don’t contain any added sugar.

Make it high protein: Add a generous dollop of nut or seed butter.

Use it in a smoothie: Substitute your oats for storebought milk alternatives in any smoothie recipe.

How long do they stay fresh?

Should I feed them to my kids?

Yes! Overnight oats are a much healthier alternative to sugary cereals and a good source of whole grains and fiber. Even picky eaters can usually find a flavor they like.

WINTER 2021-2022 |

edible SAN DIEGO 15

Huevos de Cuatro Maneras

Four takes on eggs with a distinctly regional accent

BY MICHAEL A. GARDINER

tortillas, one with green salsa and the other with red salsa (the separate sauces accounting for the name—divorced eggs). Bent’s version features an egg cookery technique that might make the French scoff but offers a bigger hit of flavor.

Like Bent, Lety McKenzie (chef at Mujeres Brew House), offers her take on the classic Mexican egg dish huevos rancheros.

Her version (recipe on page 18) uses two salsas, each flavored with a different herb. The red salsa features pipicha, an ancient Mexican herb similar to cilantro but with pronounced citrusy notes. And her green salsa showcases epazote, with its complex, pungent flavor profile.

But the Mexican egg tradition stretches further back than those popular classics. Papadzules—essentially egg-filled tortillas with two sauces—is a pre-Columbian dish of Mayan origin that was the forerunner of today’s enchiladas. The key to the dish is the intriguing combination of hard-boiled eggs, a pumpkin seed sauce, and a tomato-based sauce with a touch of habanero.

Roberto Alcocer, chef of the newly minted Valle Restaurant, which features the modern Mexican cuisine of Baja’s Valle de Guadalupe, offers a distinctly Mexican take on a breakfast classic: Eggs Benedict. Alcocer swaps in sopes for English muffins, uses smoked pork chops instead of Canadian bacon, and spikes the Hollandaise with guajillo peppers and a hit of lime juice (recipe on page 17).

There could hardly be a better one-dish breakfast summary of the cuisine of our region. And you don’t have to wear a hat with 100 pleats to cook any of these dishes.

Find the recipes for Michael Gardiner’s Egg Enchiladas with Pepita and Tomato-Lime Sauces (Papadzules) and Drew Bent’s Huevos Divorciados online at ediblesandiego.com.

16

ediblesandiego.com

BHADRI KUBENDRAN

I

t is a bit of culinary mythology that the reason there are 100 folds in a chef ’s toque—that tall, pleated, and very dated-looking hat—is that each pleat represents one of the hundred ways to cook an egg. Eggs, it seems, are foundational. As famed cookbook author, trained chef, and food TV personality Michael Ruhlman put it, “Understand completely this amazing and beautiful oblong orb—and you can enter new realms of cooking.” In other words, learn to cook eggs and you can cook just about anything.

In addition to being foundational, eggs are international.

From the omelets of France, Japan’s tamago and omurice, Scotch eggs, Italy’s frittatas, India’s egg bhurji, Korean gyeran jjim, and Spanish tortilla de patatas, few cuisines lack their own approach to the egg. There are also egg dishes that seem to magically cross borders. Huevos ahogados is similar to North African shakshuka with a Mexican accent (or vice versa). Both are eggs poached in a spicy, tomato-based sauce.

Mexico may indeed have more takes on egg dishes than most cuisines. From the aforementioned huevos ahogados to huevos rancheros, huevos divorciados, huevos migas, and many others, the Mexican egg tradition is an old one and a rich one. Perhaps that tradition is one reason our regional chefs and home cooks seem drawn to eggs. Our region, after all, is international: one part American, one part Mexican with many separate cuisines composing each. And many of those influences inform our chefs’ approaches to the simple, noble egg.

Drew Bent, chef-owner of the East Village’s Michelinrecognized Lola 55 offers a unique take on huevos divorciados, a classic dish in which two sunny-side-up fried eggs sit atop

E G G S B E N E D I C T W I T H G UA J I L L O H O L L A N DA I S E S AU C E Recipe courtesy of Roberto Alcocer Serves 4

4 tablespoons butter 4 egg yolks (reserve egg whites for another purpose) 1–2 tablespoons lime juice 1 tablespoon heavy whipping cream Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 1 dried guajillo chile 4 large eggs Splash distilled white vinegar 2 tablespoons corn, canola, or other neutral-flavored oil

MICHAEL A. GARDINER

4 slices smoked chuleta (pork chop) 2 tablespoons lard (or neutral-flavored oil such as grapeseed oil) 4 sopes (corn masa shells) 2 tablespoons shredded cotija cheese

Make the guajillo Hollandaise sauce: Melt butter in a small saucepan over low heat. While the butter is melting, in a small bowl beat the egg yolks using a wire whisk until they are thoroughly combined. Add in the lime juice, whipping cream, salt, and pepper, and whisk to combine.

boil. Add a little splash of vinegar to the water to help the egg white stay together once it’s in the water.

Meanwhile, turn a burner to high and pass the guajillo chile over the flame 2 or 3 times; combine it with the melted butter in a high-speed blender and process, starting on low and gradually turning up the speed until the guajillo butter achieves a smooth consistency.

Crack one egg into a small cup (a small measuring cup works well), then lower the egg into the simmering water, gently easing it out of the cup. Cook the egg in simmering water for 3 to 5 minutes, depending on how soft you want your egg yolk. (Note: It is not abnormal for a white foam to form on top of the water when poaching an egg. You can simply skim off the foam with a spoon.) Remove the poached egg with a slotted spoon.

Poach remaining eggs one at a time.

Add a small spoonful of the hot guajillo butter to the egg mixture and whisk to thoroughly combine. Repeat this process adding a spoonful of hot butter at a time to the egg mixture until all the guajillo butter is incorporated. (Adding the butter slowly, a spoonful at a time, will temper the eggs and ensure they don’t curdle.) Once the butter has been incorporated, pour the mixture back into the saucepan. Cook on low heat, stirring constantly, for just 20 to 30 seconds.

Remove from heat and set aside.

Finish and assemble the dish: While the egg is cooking, add the oil to a large pan over medium-high heat. When the pan comes to temperature, place the chuleta slices in the pan and cook for about 1 minute on each side. Remove the slices to a plate. Reduce the heat to medium and add the lard (or more oil) to the pan. Add the sopes to the pan and fry them for 30 to 45 seconds per side, just enough to give them a golden color.

Remove the sopes from the pan to a paper towel-lined plate.

Poach the eggs: Fill a medium saucepan with about 3 inches of water. Bring the water to a boil and then reduce heat to a simmer. You should see small bubbles coming to the surface but not a rolling

To serve, place a single sope on a plate.

Top each sope with a chuleta slice and a poached egg. Drizzle the guajillo Hollandaise sauce over each stack and sprinkle with shredded cotija cheese.

WINTER 2021-2022 |

edible SAN DIEGO 17

LET Y GONZALEZ’S H U E VO S R A N C H E RO S Serves 4

Salsa Roja 5 tomatoes ½ yellow onion 3 cloves garlic Kosher salt and ground black pepper 1 teaspoon minced pipicha (or cilantro) 2 bay leaves 10 dried árbol chiles

Salsa Verde 3 jalapeño chiles 1 bunch epazote 10 tomatillos 1 yellow onion 5 cloves garlic 3 bay leaves 1 teaspoon ground coriander 1 teaspoon ground cumin ¼ piece star anise 2 whole serrano chiles ½ bunch cilantro 1 tablespoon salt ½ tablespoon ground black pepper

Huevos Rancheros 3 tablespoons corn, canola, or other neutral-flavored oil 8 corn tortillas 1 cup shredded queso Oaxaca 2 tablespoons butter 4 eggs 2 cups prepared salsa roja 2 cups prepared salsa verde 3 tablespoons Mexican crema, for garnish ½ bunch of cilantro, minced, for garnish

18

ediblesandiego.com

Make the salsa roja: Bring a cast-iron frying pan to temperature over high heat. Add the tomato, onion, and garlic and cook until they are cooked through and take on a deep char. Season the vegetables to taste with salt and pepper and transfer them to the bowl of a food processor or high-speed blender. Add the pipicha (or cilantro) to the pan, along with the bay leaves and árbol chiles and toast them, stirring constantly, until they darken in color, 1 to 2 minutes. Add the chiles and herbs to the food processor or high-speed blender and purée until slightly chunky in texture.

To make the salsa verde, place the whole poblano and jalapeño chiles directly on the stove’s flame (or over an open or charcoal fire, or blacken the chiles using a blowtorch) and roast until the skin of the chiles are fully blackened. Place the blackened chiles in a ziplock bag to steam the skin free from the flesh for about 5 minutes.

Peel the skin from the chiles. Bring the cast-iron frying pan to temperature over high heat, add the epazote and toast until lightly charred, about 1 minute. Remove the epazote and add tomatillos, onion, and garlic and cook until they are fully cooked through and take on a deep char. Add the contents of the pan, the epazote, and remaining ingredients to the bowl of a food processor or high-speed blender and purée until smooth.

Make the huevos rancheros: In a hot frying pan, warm the 8 tortillas, then remove. Heat half of the oil in the pan over medium heat.

Return 2 of the tortillas to the pan and top them each with half the cheese and 2 more tortillas. Cook until the cheese inside is melted and the tortillas crisp up, adding the remaining oil as needed.

Repeat to make 2 more “quesadillas.”

In a small frying pan, add half of the butter and cook over medium heat until the butter bubbles. Add 2 eggs at a time and cook sunny side up (or over easy if that’s your preference).

To serve, add a “quesadilla” to each plate and top each with 3 to 4 tablespoons of salsa roja. Place an egg on the salsa roja and top each egg with 3 to 4 tablespoons of the salsa verde. Garnish with crema and minced cilantro.

Note: Pipicha is an herb that is similar in flavor to cilantro but with an added hint of lemon. Cilantro is an acceptable substitute.

MICHAEL A. GARDINER

3 poblano chiles

Grass fed nutrient dense beef Regenerative ranching practices that build soil Online ordering.

8 farmers markets.

Halves and wholes.

760.600.0248

Perennialpasturesranch.com

RISTORANTEITALIANOBARLOUNGE

Award-winning Italian Cuisine, Service, and Wine List Michelin Guide Bib Gourmand Restaurant Open 7 days a week in Liberty Station for Indoor & Heated Patio Dining and Take-Out/Delivery 2820 Roosevelt Rd., San Diego | 619-270-9670 | solarelounge.com

Virtual Spring Seminar

Contact us for all your Holiday catering needs!

Catering & Kitchen: 619-546-0650 Hours: Mon–Sun, 8am–2pm www.banyankitchensd.com

Earth Friendly Gardening Contact us for all your Holiday catering needs!

Learn, Plant, Grow.

Catering & Kitchen: 619-546-0650

SAVE THE DATE

March 16-27, 2022

Hours: Mon - Sun: 8:00 AM - 2:00 PM www.banyankitchensd.com

mastergardenersd.org

WINTER 2021-2022 |

edible SAN DIEGO 19

Photo: Saverio Blasi/shutterstock.com

20 e d i bCommunities lesandiego.com edible |

S IG N AT U RE

S E C T ION

WE ARE WHAT WE EAT It’s Time To Make Food Decisions With the Climate Crisis in Mind

STO RY

BY

Twilight Greenaway, senior editor of Civil Eats,

produced in partnership with civileats.com

If we had been told, a decade ago, that so many climate-

they said that other parts of the world—developing na-

fueled disasters would hit the food system so soon, would

tions with little infrastructure and large numbers of subsis-

we have believed it?

tence farmers—would face the worst of the problem. And

If someone had described the catastrophic flooding of the Missouri river that submerged a million acres of corn

those of us in North America? We’d be fine until at least the end of the century.

and soybeans in 2019 (followed a year later by winds in the

Then someone turned the lights back on, the economists

same region that were so destructive they flattened corn si-

thanked the audience and everyone went home. I wrote

los), produce crops in Texas freezing in April, winemakers

about the lecture, quoted the experts on the science and was

having to throw away entire vintages because they tasted of

careful to take a similarly calm tone, as if I were writing from

wildfire smoke, shellfish in British Columbia being literally

a great distance about something that may or may not occur.

cooked alive in the ocean and ranchers throughout the West

Of course, some climate scientists were already issuing

being forced to sell off tens of thousands of cattle so they

dire warnings at that point, and many had made concerns

wouldn’t starve due to drought—would we have listened?

about our ability to feed ourselves central to their pleas

Would we have done more to prepare?

for action.

I can’t help but think back to a lecture I sat in on in

But most of us had no idea how urgently we needed to

2008 on the future of food and climate change by a pair of

prepare for what we’re now seeing play out in the food sys-

Ivy League economists. I had seen An Inconvenient Truth

tem—and in the world at large. Indeed, the stakes couldn’t

and was serious about local food. And I had a hunch that

be higher. Food production has been rocked to the core and

reducing my “food miles” wouldn’t cut it.

many small and medium-scale farmers are contemplating

The economists talked about the potential boon to crop yields, due to “increased photosynthesis” and “CO2

throwing in the towel.

This fact was driven home for me this summer, as I

fertilization,” but added that warming temperature and ris-

trudged through ankle-deep mud on my family’s small farm

ing evaporation would balance one another out, at least in

in Captain Cook, Hawaii—on what was once the “dry side

our lifetimes. Some places would get too wet, and some

of the island” but has seen record-level, nearly non-stop rain-

would be too dry, they warned. And, as if to reassure us,

fall for the past year. My mother, a farmer, was dismayed at

WINTER 2021-2022 |

edible SAN DIEGO 21 ediblecommunities.com

the constant rain’s impact on her orchards, and by the host of new

be marketing ploys, but it’s clear that they’ve realized “sustain-

invasive species—from fire ants and wild boars to slugs that carry

ability” is a term they must use literally, as in, do their business

a brain-eating parasite—that are thriving there due to warming

models have a future?

temperatures. The soil has been consistently saturated with water,

When it comes to making sure the rest of us have a future,

and the coffee and fruit trees are suffering from multiple fungal

however, I’m betting on the work of small-scale farmers and

diseases at once. The vegetables in the gardens are often stunted

ranchers—and more of them working at a human scale—as one

and mildewy as the sun has stubbornly refused to shine.

of our most important solutions to the climate crisis.

And I thought about those self-assured economists when I

If done right, farming and ranching can help bring the natu-

returned home to drought-stricken Northern California, where

ral world back into balance. And it has the potential to reverse our

I saved water from my kitchen and shower and lugged it to the

current scenario: millions of acres of land covered in monocrops

tiny garden I struggle to keep alive through the dry season. Most

growing in soil that is overly tilled, void of most life and actively

of the small-scale farms in the area didn’t have the luxury of re-

washing into the ocean nearly every time it rains.

claimed water; instead, they found themselves abandoning doz-

Soil holds three times more carbon globally than the atmo-

ens of acres at a time, making radical changes to their business

sphere does. And it can hold more if it’s managed in a way that

models, and discontinuing their CSAs. Meanwhile, the ongoing,

brings more of it back to life. But to do that we need producers

often terrifying onslaught of wildfires made the mere thought of

who are immensely curious and dedicated—who see the chal-

rain seem like a mirage on the other end of a very long desert.

lenge at hand and want to rise to meet it.

The fact that these “new normals” have already had a dra-

They need to work in concert, and they need to represent a

matic impact on the food system probably shouldn’t be a sur-

much wider swath of the population—here in North America

prise. Global temperatures have already risen 1.5 degrees Celsius

that means intentionally making space for exponentially more

above pre-industrial levels and the impacts are evident. The sixth

young people, more Black, Indigenous, and people of color (BI-

assessment report published by the Intergovernmental Panel on

POC) producers, and more LGBTQ producers. It also means

Climate Change (IPCC) in August warned of significant drops in

passing systemic policies that help them explore, invest in and

crop yields for corn, wheat, rice and other cereal grains if global

modernize the farming practices that have long been successful

temperatures hit the 2 degree C level. If that happens, the report

at cooling the planet.

said, there will be “more times of year when temperatures exceed

In plain terms that means we need more perennial crops, trees

what crops can stand” and “risks across energy, food and water

on farms (i.e., agroforestry and silvopasture), managed grazing,

sectors could overlap spatially and temporally, creating new and

cover crops, waffle gardens and other methods of deep-soil plant-

exacerbating current hazards, exposures, and vulnerabilities that

ing, crop diversity, prescriptive burns, seed sovereignty, local food

could affect increasing numbers of people and regions.”

and farm infrastructure, and multitrophic aquaculture.

Among the clear list of hazards are the “food shocks” caused

We need to help more farmers control weeds without tilling

by extreme weather events—and they show no sign of slowing

the soil. We need more compost on the surface of the soil and

down. For these reasons, food prices are expected to grow at a

more mycelia and living ecosystems below. We also need more

steadier clip than most of us have experienced in our lifetimes.

plants at the center of our plates. We need to spend more time

According to the United Nation’s Food and Agriculture Organi-

listening to Indigenous communities and remembering that our

zation (FAO), for instance, global food prices rose by nearly 33

needs are inextricable from the needs of the natural world, and

percent between September 2020 and September 2021.

the ecosystems that have kept it in balance for millennia.

It’s not just farmers who are scrambling to respond. Many of

Most of this probably won’t require new cap and trade

the world’s largest, most powerful food companies are starting

markets, new consumer labels or new technology. But it will

to examine their supply chains in a new light, hoping to posi-

require more hands—and very likely a different, more collec-

tion themselves as part of the solution. Multinational food com-

tive approach to land ownership, at a moment when building

panies like General Mills, Smithfield, Unilever and Danone are

housing is considered a much more valuable use of land than

all publicizing the changes they’re making in their supply chains

producing food.

to address emissions and rethink their farming practices. Some

None of this will mean much if we don’t also stop burning

of these changes could have a real impact and others might just

fossil fuels—and subsidizing that burning on a global scale. But continued

22 e d i bCommunities lesandiego.com edible |

S IG N AT U RE

S E C T IO N

ediblecommunities.com

WINTER 2021-2022 |

edible SAN DIEGO 23

24

ediblesandiego.com

WINTER 2021-2022 |

edible SAN DIEGO 25

26

ediblesandiego.com

there’s more and more agreement among scientists and cli-

their foods, it often has the curious effect of making us

mate advocates that we also need to turn more of our agri-

into the kinds of people who want to vote for—and fight

cultural soil into a carbon sink, and that doing so is a matter

for—systemic change.

of how—not if.

I was thinking about this recently while lugging a

The good news is that a lot of smart people are already

bucket of dishwater out to my garden and feeling a little

working on the how. And that’s where your dinner—and

like I was wasting my time, as my neighbors were still turn-

breakfast, lunch, snacks—enter the picture.

ing on their hoses. It hurts my back, it’s absurdly time con-

There’s a healthy debate in both agriculture and climate

suming. But every time I do it, I am made again and again

circles about the value of individual action versus the need

into the person who notices water and who keeps noticing

for systemic change. And food, thankfully, lies at the in-

water—who notices plants, notices soil. And being that

tersection of both. What we do—and eat—every day is

person is what makes me ache for climate policy that pri-

who we are. When we support people who produce food

oritizes survival for all.

with soil health and the climate in mind—whether that’s

Can we change the food system in time to help cool the

buying from them directly, using a farmers’ market dollar-

planet? That’s an open question. Do we have any real choice

matching program or dining in restaurants that cook with

but to try? As I see it, absolutely not.

Closing Thoughts From Our Founder Thank you for joining us on these pages, the third in a series of thought leadership pieces from Edible Communities.

We would like to send a special thanks to our partners for this issue, Twilight Greenaway, Naomi Starkman and the team at Civil Eats who made this story possible.

Telling powerful stories about local food and community has been the mission of Edible Communities for the past 20 years. And while I know we’ve had an impact on the way food is grown and consumed throughout North America, now more than ever there is a greater urgency for all of us to do more. A lot more.

As Twilight so elegantly points out in this article, taking individual action daily—whether recycling household water in our garden or demanding more inclusivity for those raising the food we eat—is what keeps us aware and makes us pay attention. It is what makes it impossible for us to ignore the honest reality inherent in: “What we do—and eat—every day is who we are.” And it is what will ultimately lead to systemic change.

During this holiday season and as we begin a new year, I want to express my deep and enduring gratitude to the network of wildly talented individuals who are the lifeblood of Edible Communities—the publishers, editors, contributors and staff who so diligently work to bring you these important stories throughout the year—every single one of whom has courageously and tirelessly fought to keep their local food communities alive, even in the face of a global pandemic. With independent journalism being threatened today more than at any time in our history, it’s especially important for us to support their efforts. The ability to maintain editorial independence and to dive deeply into urgent issues like the climate crisis are critical to the health of our society. That is why organizations like Civil Eats (civileats.com) are so important to us and to our mission. I encourage you to subscribe to their newsletter, donate, be informed, pay attention—help effect change.

Tracey Ryder, Co-Founder & CEO Edible Communities

edible Communities |

S IG N AT U RE

S E C TI O N

WINTER 2021-2022 |

edible SAN DIEGO 27 ediblecommunities.com

edible san diego Local Monday

Escondido—Welk Resort √† 8860 Lawrence Welk Dr. 3–7pm 760-651-3630

Tuesday Coronado √

1st St. & B Ave., Ferry Landing 2:30–6pm 760-741-3763

Escondido √*

262 E. Grand Ave. 2:30–sunset 760-480-4101

The Farmstand NEW

(formerly People’s Produce Night Market) 4261 Market St. 5–8pm 619-813-9148

Mira Mesa √*

10510 Marauder Way 2:30–7pm (3–6pm fall-winter) Closed in January 858-272-7054

Otay Ranch—Chula Vista √

2015 Birch Rd. and Eastlake Blvd.

4–7pm 619-279-0032

Enjoy the Open Air Wednesday

Thursday

600 W. Date St. 9:30am–1:30pm 619-233-3901

2885 Lemon Grove Ave. 3:30–6:30pm 619-813-9148

Little Italy Wednesday Mercato √*†

Lemon Grove √*

Ocean Beach √

Linda Vista √*†

Santee *†

North Park Thursday √*†

South Bay √

Oceanside Morning √*

State Street in Carlsbad Village √

Rancho Bernardo √

4900 block of Newport Ave. 4–8pm (4–7pm winter) 619-279-0032 Carlton Hills Blvd. & Mast Blvd.

3–7pm (2:30–6:30pm winter) 619-449-8427 4475 Bonita Rd. 3–7pm 619-550-7180 State St. & Carlsbad Village Dr. 2:30–7pm (3–6pm fall-winter) 760-453-7076

6939 Linda Vista Rd. 3–7pm (2–6pm winter) 760-504-4363 2900 North Park Way at 30th 3–7:30pm 208-922-8900

401 Pier View Way & Hwy. 101 9am–1pm 760-791-3241 16535 Via Esprillo 11am–1:30pm 619-279-0032

Temecula—Promenade √*

40820 Winchester Rd. by Macy’s 9am–1pm 760-728-7343

Pacific Beach Tuesday à

Friday

San Marcos √

Imperial Beach √*†

Borrego Springs √

901 Hornblend St. 2–7pm 208-922-8900

251 North City Dr. 3–7pm (3–6pm fall-winter) 760-744-1270

Temecula—Vail Headquarters √* 32115 Temecula Pkwy.

9am–1pm 760-728-7343

UCSD Town Square √

UCSD Campus, Town Square 10am–2pm, Sept to June 858-534-4248

28

ediblesandiego.com

700 Palm Canyon Dr. 8am–noon, Oct to Apr 760-767-5555

EAT the most delicious californiagrown fruits and vegGIES 7 days a week

10 Evergreen Ave. 2–7pm (2–6pm winter) info@imperialbeachfarmersmarket.org

La Mesa Village √*

La Mesa Blvd. btwn Palm & 4th St. 3–6pm, year-round 619-795-3363

Rancho Bernardo √

13330 Paseo del Verano Norte 9am–1pm 760-500-1709

Markets Guide

Saturday

find the freshest local catch

City Heights √*†!

Poway √*

Tuna Harbor Dockside Market

Del Mar √

Rancho Penasquitos

Vista √*†

Fallbrook Main Street √

Sand n’ Straw Community Farm

Little Italy Mercato à

Temecula—Old Town √*

Wightman St. btwn Fairmount & 43rd St. 9am–1pm 760-504-4363 1050 Camino Del Mar 1–4pm 858-465-0013

600 W. Date St. 8am–2pm 619-233-3901

325 Melrose Dr. 8am–noon 760-945-7425

629 Mar Vista Dr. 10am–4pm 760-877-9054 Sixth & Front St. 8am–12:30pm 760-728-7343

Support local growers and businesses

Sunday

Murrieta √*

Hillcrest √*

3960 Normal St. 9am–2pm 619-237-1632

24480 Village Walk Plaza I-15, exit west on Calif. Oaks & Kalmia 9am–1pm 760-728-7343

7335 Girard Ave. & Genter 9am–1pm 858-454-1699

Leucadia √*

598 Harbor Ln. Port of San Diego 8am–3pm

9400 Fairgrove Ln. 9am–1pm 858-484-8788

111 S. Main Ave. btwn Hawthorne & Fig 9am–2pm 760-728-5845

La Jolla Open Aire √

14134 Midland Rd. 8am–1pm 619-249-9395

Rancho Santa Fe—Del Rayo Village √ 16079 San Dieguito Rd. 9:30am–2pm 619-743-4263

Santa Ysabel √

21887 Washington St. 11am–4pm 760-782-9202

Solana Beach √ 410 S. Cedros Ave. Noon–4pm 858-755-0444

185 Union St. 10am–2pm 858-272-7054

cultivate community Due to Covid-19: Markets shown in gray are temporarily closed and all listings are subject to change. Please contact markets directly to confirm hours of operation and locations.

Visit ediblesandiego.com for more complete information and links to market websites.

* M arket vendors accept WIC (Women, Infants, Children) Farmers’ Market checks. † Market vendors accept EBT (Electronic Benefit Transfer). ! Market vendors accept WIC Fruit and Vegetable checks. √ Markets certified by the San Diego County Agricultural Commissioner, ensuring that the produce is grown by the seller or another certified farmer in California, and meets all state quality standards. Temecula markets and the Murrieta market are certified by the Riverside County Agricultural Commissioner.

WINTER 2021-2022 |

edible SAN DIEGO 29

Edible San Diego’s Local Bakery Guide

The Doughnut Edition

Barrio Donas  This hybrid doughnut shop in Clairemont melds together the best Mexican and American pastry flavors for a unique doughnut experience. Who can resist a churro doughnut? Vegan options are also offered.

▼ Broad Street Dough Co. There’s no surprise that Encinitas has welcomed this New Jersey transplant, especially since their menu accommodates those with keto, gluten-free, and dairy-free diets.

Christy’s Donuts This mainstay on Voltaire is another dependable spot for doughnut shop classics. Look for old-fashioned doughnuts with seasonal berry glaze, and we can attest that the cream-filled doughnut is worth every calorie.

Copper Top Coffee & Donuts ▼ San Diego’s doughnut game is strong and there’s sure to be one for each of us—from classic to vegan to gluten-free, keto, and even churro—so revel in it.

Keep this guide of 15 iconic San Diego doughnut shops handy for when you need to scratch the doughnut itch.

With their home in Hillcrest, this coffee and doughnut shop is all about pleasing the community with creatively named treats. Try their namesake, made with salted caramel espresso glaze, maple frosting, and espresso grinds.

Devil’s Dozen The moment of the high-end doughnut in Little Italy has arrived at this bakery concept from SDCM Restaurant Group and corporate executive chef Brian Redzikowski.

Gourmet flavor selections change weekly and the signature doughnuts are always spot on.

 Donut Bar There will most likely be a line out the door at the downtown location, but their over-the-top concoctions are worth the wait.

Some of the “Everyday Favorites” include the Big Poppa Tart, the Unicorn, maple bacon, and crème brûlée doughnuts.

They also offer plenty of vegan options.

The Gluten Free Baking Co. 

ILLUSTRATIONS BY LULU YUEMING QU

30

ediblesandiego.com

This bakery was opened to support those dealing with food sensitivities and to show the community that gluten-free baked goods are just as delicious.

You can pick up bread, doughnuts, cookies, and other treats—there are even dry mixes you can purchase if you want to practice your at-home baking skills.

The Goods Doughnuts  This Carlsbad shop sources locally and churns out scratch-made batches every hour. If your dream selection sounds anything like, “Give me a chocolate ganache with sprinkles, one Boston cream, one citrus cream, two apple fritters, and three of those Nutella buttercream cruffins, please,” it might be the place for you.

Mary’s Donuts This Santee institution with additional locations in Lakeside and El Cajon (Main Street Donuts and Deli) offers favorites like plate-sized “Big Donuts” for special occasions, apple fritters, and decadent maple bacon doughnuts.

Nomad Donuts

Parlor Doughnuts

What started as a small doughnut shop in North Park has turned into a bustling weekend destination, now offering bagels as well. The menu changes by the season and popularity, and they even team up with local craft breweries for creative pairings.

Located in Oceanside and Solana Beach (in addition to nationwide), Parlor Doughnuts is known for their Famous Layered Doughnut, which is flaky and sweet thanks to layers of butter. They’ve also mastered a keto doughnut recipe if you’re sugar- and carb–conscious—and— they even have doughnuts for dogs!

Rose Donuts

Sidecar Doughnuts

Located in Linda Vista, Rose Donuts has been in business for over 25 years. You’ll find all the classics here, including twists, apple fritters, old-fashioneds, and French crullers.

A welcome addition to Del Mar, this doughnut shop started in Costa Mesa with the belief that the only way to enjoy a doughnut is when it’s hot and fresh, so they fry their doughnuts in small batches all day long. There is a delicious assortment of flavors with butter & salt at the top of our list.

Solomon Bagel & Doughnut Company  This North Park newcomer offers both regular and vegan doughnut selections. You’ll probably want to grab a dozen of their New York-style bagels while you’re at it.

VG Doughnut and Bakery  A “Very Good” full-service bakery, this classic shop has been feeding Cardiff-by-the-Sea since 1969. Favored by local surfers and San Elijo State Beach campers, it’s hard not to love their classic doughnuts, pastries, and breads.

Find more community-inspired guides on ediblesandiego.com.

WINTER 2021-2022 |

edible SAN DIEGO 31

ADVERTISER RESOURCE GUIDE

Join the local food movement by patronizing the businesses that support Edible San Diego in being the trusted source for content about sustainability and healthy living in San Diego County.

ARTISAN BE VER AGES KAKAWA COFFEE 3655 Voltaire St., San Diego • 619-2412995 • kakawacoffee.com ROSE’S TASTING ROOM 2754 Calhoun St., Suite G, San Diego • 619-293-7673 • rosestastingroom.com SAFARI COFFEE ROASTERS 1012 W. El Norte Pkwy., Escondido • 760-740-9575 • safaricoffee.com WOOF ’N ROSE WINERY 17073 Garjan Ln., Ramona • 760-788-4818 • woofnrose.com

CORK & KNIFE 515 W. 13th Ave., Escondido • 858-703-8399 • corknknife.com HAWAIIAN FRESH SEAFOOD 6491 Weathers Pl., San Diego • 808-8458862 • hawaiianfreshseafood.com KISMET REFINING CO. 1411 Queenston Dr., Escondido • 708-370-4734 • kismetrefining.com PERENNIAL PASTURES Santa Ysabel • 619-787-6403 • perennialpasturesranch.com RIO DEL REY BEANS 30966 Cole Grade Rd., Valley Center • 760-749-8177 • riodelreybeans.com

COMMUNIT Y O R G A N I Z AT I O N S

SAN DIEGO BAR sdbar.co

FALLBROOK CHAMBER OF COMMERCE 111 S. Main Ave., Fallbrook • 760-7285845 • fallbrookchamberofcommerce.org

SPECIALTY PRODUCE 1929 Hancock St., #150, San Diego • 800-221-9730 • specialtyproduce.com

MASTER GARDENER ASSOCIATION OF SAN DIEGO 858-822-7711 • mastergardenersd.org SURFRIDER FOUNDATION - SAN DIEGO COUNTY CHAPTER 3900 Cleveland Ave., Suite 201, San Diego • 858-800-2282 • sandiego.surfrider.org FA R M S , FA R M E R S ’ MARKETS & PRODUCE D E L I V E RY SAND N’ STRAW COMMUNITY FARM 629 Mar Vista Dr., Vista • 760-575-4758 • sandnstraw.com

SPICEBREEZE spicebreeze.com HOME, GARDENING, FLORISTS & R ANCH S U P P LY GRANGETTO’S FARM & GARDEN 1105 W. Mission Ave., Escondido • 760-745-4671 • grangettos.com R E S TAU R A N T S BANYAN KITCHEN & CAFE 2690 Historic Decatur Rd., San Diego • 619-546-0650 • banyankitchensd.com LUCKYBOLT 10920 Roselle St., #104, San Diego • 619-940-7191 • luckybolt.com

At Banyan Kitchen LIFEST YLE COLLINS & COUPE 2876 El Cajon Blvd., #100, San Diego • 619-727-4971 • collinsandcoupe.com GOLDEN DOOR 777 Deer Springs Rd., San Marcos • 760-744-5777 • goldendoor.com HARVEST JOY harvestjoydesign.com REVESSEL 1150 Garden View Rd., #231975, Encinitas • revessel.com VINCENT RIPOL PERSONAL TRAINER 619-337-4542

J.R. ORGANICS 31030 Rodriguez Rd., Escondido • 760-638-6387 • jrorganicsfarm.com

MITCH’S SEAFOOD 1403 Scott St., San Diego • 619-222-8787 • mitchsseafood.com

S E RV I C E S

G R O C E RY, M E AT & SEAFOOD

SOLARE 2820 Roosevelt Rd., San Diego • 619-270-9670 • solarelounge.com

EPIK WORK 5600 Avenida Encinas, Carlsbad • 858-354-8858 • epikwork.com

DA-LE RANCH 24895 Baxter Ranch Rd., Lake Elsinore • 619-206-2691 • da-le-ranch.com

SPLIT BAKEHOUSE 5550 Grossmont Center Dr., #219, La Mesa • splitbakehouse.com

MATT YUNKER, REALTOR 858-997-6414 • huntermaddox.com/ agent/Matthew_Yunker/8304393

CATALINA OFFSHORE PRODUCTS 5202 Lovelock St., San Diego • 619-297-9797 • catalinaop.com

32

ediblesandiego.com

These businesses participate in Edible San Diego’s Local Business Builder Program. Learn more at ediblesandiego. com/advertise/marketing-memberships.

Our readers are dedicated to supporting businesses that align with their values. Connect with them by becoming an advertiser or magazine distribution partner today.

Scan the QR code or contact deborah@ediblesandiego.com.

From flavor to folklore and recipes to records, the Specialty Produce App is your encyclopedia of fresh foods, your map of local markets, your cookbook of culinary custom, and your archive of ancient histories—the often whimsical, sometimes eerie, always satisfying stories of fruits of vegetables from around the world.

Tales traveling out of Scotland tell of the Bloody Ploughman, a rare Scottish heirloom apple, whose grim beginnings—as legend has it—are seeded at the Megginch Estate. A ploughman on the property was caught red-handed stealing apples from the estate’s orchard by the gamekeeper, who shot and killed the poaching ploughman on the spot. His body was returned to the ploughman’s wife, who discovered the stolen apples still in his pockets and, in anger, threw them onto a heap of rubbish to rot. Yet in time, one of the apples produced a seedling that grew strangely dark, crimson-red fruits. Superstition led estate workers to believe that the apples had been stained by the blood of the late ploughman, inspiring the name as we know it.

In America, whisperings of an old wives’ tale in the Ozarks warns of upcoming winter weather, predicted by splitting open a persimmon seed. The shape inside will resemble either a fork, indicating a mild winter, a spoon, signifying snowfall, or a knife, foretelling of a bitter and cutting cold. In Japan, persimmons are the fruit of fairy tales, paintings, poetry, and décor, ornamentally drying in doorframes and windows, but of course, they are also beloved as a tasty natural treat. The elusive Chocolate persimmon—natively known as Tsuru Noko—is one of the most highly-sought varieties by persimmon enthusiasts around the world, boasting a sugary sweetness and a hint of warm spice, with chocolatebrown speckled flesh ripening from crisp to creamy.

Craving more juicy details? Download the Specialty Produce App to indulge in the rich history and culture of your favorite foods, or sink your teeth into something new as you explore the diversity of your planet and your plate from the palm of your hand. sponsored content WINTER 2021-2022 |

edible SAN DIEGO 33

GET HOOKED ON QUALITY

S a n D i e g o ’s P r e m i u m F i s h M a r k e t Fresh Local Seafood and Sushi Specialties F a m i l y O w n e d a n d O p e r a t e d f o r O v e r 4 0 Ye a r s Open Tues.–Fri., 8am–5pm and Sat.–Sun., 8am–3pm. Curbside Pickup Available Tues.–Fri. 5202 Lovelock Street, San Diego • (619) 297-9797 • catalinaop.com Exclusive Discount: Mention “EdibleWinter10” during in-store checkout or use code online.

34

ediblesandiego.com

(Promotion expires 2/28/22; some restrictions may apply.)