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Good food. Good drink. Good read. • No. 36 • July-August 2016

Surf & Turf San Diego Grown Meat Keeping Seafood Local Charles Andres of Ocean Pacific Grille

nature need

not be a STRANGER

Before our lives were so convenient, they were authentic. We woke with the sun, worked with our hands and slept under the stars. That may not be where we live anymore, but it’s a nice place to visit. Get the guide at Colorado.com

July-August 2016







































Contents Photo: Sam Wells

Thanks to Chef Rob Ruiz of Land and Water for cover photo styling. Photo by Chris Rov Costa.

{Two Cents}


Photo: David Pattison

e were heartened by an article in the The San Diego Union Tribune (3/16/2016) about the use of produce and fish in San Ysidro School District lunches on “California Thursdays.” The fish for fish tacos came from local fish company Catalina Offshore Products, the produce from Go Green Agriculture and Stehly Farms Organics, and though not strictly local, the chicken came from Mary’s Free Range Chicken in Salinas. These local ingredients were incorporated into new recipes developed by local chef Jeff Rossman (owner of Terra American Bistro in La Mesa), with the help of San Ysidro middle school students.

Riley Davenport and John Vawter

This is part of a statewide effort under the aegis of the California Farm to School Network, administered locally by Community Health Improvement Partners. At the time of the article, 33 of San Diego County’s 44 school districts’ schools incorporated produce from local farms into their menus. Other worthy goals of the farm-to-school programs include:

• Building a “stronger, more equitable local food system for California farmers, workers, and children.” Creating “a foundation for healthy food, healthy people, healthy economies, and a healthy environment across California communities.” • Committing “to fostering strong links between families and farmers that grow beyond the school year.” • Integrating “local agriculture and nutrition into all facets of the school, including the classroom, school gardens, the cafeteria, and the broader community.” These efforts reduce the miles food must travel to reach our plates, lower obesity rates and improve health, and foster more environmentally sustainable and vibrant communities and farms. We look forward to the day when our farm-to-school programs expand to provide fresh, local fare every day of the week, not just one day. Food that travels the fewest miles is typically fresher and therefore more nutritious, especially produce. And produce, for the sake of our health and environmental sustainability, should make up the bulk of our diets.

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Aimee Della Bitta Edible San Diego Stephanie M. Casey P.O. Box 83549 Robin Dohrn-Simpson San Diego, CA 92138 Jaime Fritsch 619-222-8267 Brandon Hernandez info@ediblesandiego.com Paul Hormick ediblesandiego.com Erin Jackson Amanda Kelly ADVERTISING Noreen Kompanik For information about Lauren Mahan rates and deadlines, Elaine J. Masters contact Riley at Sarah M. Shoffler Leah R Singer 619-222-8267 Lyudmila Zotova riley@ediblesandiego.com

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No part of this publication may be used without written permission of the publisher. © 2015 All rights reserved.

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COVER PHOTO Chris Rov Costa








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July-August 2016

edible San Diego


{Tidbits} Café Madeleine: La crème de la crème of South Park’s sidewalk scene

Since 2010 Café Madeleine owner Christine Pérez (her husband, Jérôme Gombert, is originally from Paris) has been serving up traditional Parisian street food—crèpes, both sweet and savory, panini and salads, as well as croissants and what the owner touts as the best cup of coffee in South Park.

“We serve illy coffee, which is a high-end brand imported from Trieste, Italy,” Perez says. “The hands-on training the company provides, from coffee grinders to the machines that froth the milk, helps to ensure that every cup of coffee is spot-on perfect.” ~ Lauren Mahan Café Madeleine 2248 30th St. (at Juniper) (619) 544-1735 CafeMadeleineSD.com Daily 7am–6pm Sat/Sun 7am–7pm

A Cinderella Story for Unwanted Food San Diego Food System Alliance’s Unwasted Food pop-up dinners aim to redefine the term “food waste”

Photo: Mike Mahan

If you find yourself walking south on 30th Street and happen to turn right at Juniper where the street jogs west, be prepared to be magically transported to a Parisian sidewalk café, complete with umbrella tables, Art Deco décor and dog-friendly ambience.

Owner Christine Pérez and customer.

The Taco Stand brings a taste of Tijuana to urban San Diegans

According to Elly Brown of the San Diego Food System Alliance (sdfsa.org), “food waste” is an oxymoron because, “When it comes to food, all ingredients are valuable.”

“Our goal is to prevent waste and encourage the use of food for people, animals and soil,” Brown says. “We feel that chefs play a key role in educating the public on effective methods to store and cook ingredients to prevent waste.” To find out more about SDFSA’s pop-up dinners, go to Re-SourceS.com. ~ Lauren Mahan

Photo: Courtesy of Taco Stand

To make their point, SDFSA has partnered with local chefs in to host a series of Unwasted Food pop-up dinners where otherwise unused or seemingly undesirable food items are magically transformed into multi-course gourmet meals.

Anyone who has ever tasted a Tijuana street food taco knows that the freshness and flavors are hard to beat. But San Diegan Julian Hakim, who grew up in Tijuana, was up to the challenge. “The idea behind The Taco Stand was to create something just as good—or even better—north of the border,” says Hakim. After months of experimenting and tasting, using only the best-quality ingredients, the family-owned business opened its doors in 2013 in La Jolla, followed by a downtown location at 6th and B. For anyone with a sweet tooth, The Taco Stand offers hot churros, made from a 40-year-old family recipe, as well as a fridge stocked with Mexican Coca-Cola (no high-fructose corn syrup). ~ Lauren Mahan The Taco Stand 645 B St., San Diego 621 Pearl St., La Jolla LetsTaco.com


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edible San Diego

July-August 2016

{Local Talent}

Chef Charles Andres of Ocean Pacific Grille By Erin Jackson Photos by Chris Rov Costa


“In Filipino culture, families love to cook together,” says Andres. “Seeing how much love and joy was being shared got me curious about what was going on.”

rom childhood, Charles Andres was intrigued by the affection and excitement he observed in the kitchen of his family home in the Philippines (and later, Hawaii) when multiple generations gathered to prepare a feast. “In Filipino culture, families love to cook together,” says Andres. “Seeing how much love and joy was being shared got me curious about what was going on.” At age 16, Andres’ father (a cook) set him up with his first job: washing dishes at the Rusty Harpoon in Whaler’s Village, Maui. Andres worked his way through the ranks, inspired by how the camaraderie among the staff mirrored what he saw in his family home.

In 2002 Andres returned to Maui, where he launched a career at Roy’s that spanned 12 years and several cities. Working at “the mecca of Hawaiian fusion” under Roy Yamaguchi himself, Andres learned how to mesh French techniques with Asian ingredients and be creative with what the land and sea provide. “I knew I loved to cook when I was younger, but when I was at Roy’s, that’s when I knew ‘This is it. This is me. This is what I’m going to do with the rest of my life,’” says Andres.

After graduating high school, Andres honed his skills in Las Vegas, where he mostly ignored the chaos around him. “ I was so focused on what I saw in that kitchen when I was younger. I took the memory with me and built upon it to create my culinary future,” he says.

Near the end of his career at Roy’s, armed with confidence and experience, Andres

began to create his own dishes highlighting Filipino flavors. Today, as executive chef of Ocean Pacific Grille, Andres turns out seasonally shifting fare inspired by the bold flavors of the Pacific Rim with a Filipino twist. Sourcing close to home is a major focus; 80% of the ingredients are local to California, including seafood from Catalina Offshore Products and Chesapeake Fish Company and produce from Moceri Produce, Suzie’s Farm and Specialty Produce. Since day one, Filipino guests have responded enthusiastically, but Andres says seeing non-Filipino diners enjoy the food is his “biggest accomplishment.” You can see Andres’ roots in two of the restaurant’s top-selling dishes: SlowBraised Short Ribs “Kare-Kare” and Crispy Skin Barramundi “Sinigang.” Short rib is a San Diego staple, but Andres’ spin, which incorporates achiote paste into the braising liquid, celebrates his Filipino culture ☛ July-August 2016

edible San Diego


Slow-Braised Short Ribs Kare-Kare Makes 8 portions Notes: Short ribs can be cooked and portioned a couple days in advance. A Dutch oven can be substituted for a rondeau. Achiote is available at Specialty Produce, and at most Mexican and Filipino supermarkets.

Braised Short Ribs 5 pounds boneless short ribs 4 garlic cloves 2 yellow onions (large dice) 1 jumbo carrot (large dice) 3 stalks celery (large dice)

½ cup red wine 4 whole black peppercorns 2 bay leaves 4 quarts beef stock 2 tablespoons tomato paste

Peanut Butter Sauce 1 cup yellow onion, diced 2 cloves garlic

½ cup carrots, diced 1 teaspoon achiote powder or paste

¼ cup red wine 2 ounces jasmine rice 2 quarts beef stock

¼ cup smooth peanut butter


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July-August 2016

Sautéed Vegetable Mix ½ teaspoon diced garlic and ginger mix 4 tablespoons olive oil 8 pieces baby bok choy 1 pound Japanese eggplant 1 pound long beans For the short ribs: Preheat oven to 350°. Season short ribs liberally with salt and black pepper. In a large rondeau over high heat, sear short ribs on all four sides. Remove short ribs, place on a roasting pan and set aside. In the same rondeau, sauté garlic, onion, carrots and celery until golden brown. Add the tomato paste; cook for 2 minutes. Deglaze the rondeau with red wine and add peppercorns, bay leaves and beef stock. Add the vegetable and stock mixture to the short ribs, making sure they are covered with liquid. Cover the rondeau with foil. Cook in the oven for approximately 3 hours. Remove short ribs from the liquid and set aside. Strain and reserve cooking liquid.

For the peanut butter sauce: In a sauce pot, sauté onion, garlic, jasmine rice and carrots over medium heat until golden brown. Add achiote and red wine and cook for 2 minutes. Add reserved cooking liquid and cook for 10 minutes. Blend in peanut butter. For the vegetables: Preheat a sauté pan to high and sauté garlic and ginger in olive oil to golden brown. Add vegetables and sauté for 2 minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Plating: Place short ribs and peanut butter sauce in a pot over low heat. Bring the mixture to a simmer for 5 minutes or until the short ribs are soft. Arrange sautéed vegetables in a large entrée bowl. Place short ribs on top of the vegetables and pour peanut butter sauce on top of the short ribs.

Crispy Skin Sea Bass “Sinigang” Makes 8 portions

Fish 8 (8-ounce) pieces skin-on sea bass (halibut or mahi mahi may also be substituted)

Tamarind Tomato Broth 2 stalks lemongrass 1 cup shallots, diced 6 ounces ginger (about 1 cup, chopped) 1 cup white wine 2 ounces tamarind paste 4 Roma tomatoes

¼ cup fish sauce ¼ cup tomato paste 2 cubes fish bouillon 4 quarts water

Confit Fingerling Potatoes 1 pound fingerling potatoes, cut in half 4 sprigs thyme 4 black peppercorns 1 teaspoon salt 2 bay leaf 2 cups duck fat (can buy rendered duck fat at Whole Foods Markets) 3 cups extra virgin olive oil

Sautéed Vegetable Mix ½ teaspoon diced garlic and ginger mix

For the Tamarind Tomato Broth: In a saucepot, sauté lemongrass, shallots and ginger over medium heat until golden brown. Deglaze with white wine and boil for 4 minutes. Add tamarind paste, Roma tomatoes, tomato paste, water and bouillon cubes and boil for 20 minutes. Strain the broth, add the fish sauce and set aside for plating. For the potatoes: Place potatoes, thyme, peppercorns, salt and bay leaf in a large pot and cover with duck fat/olive oil mixture. Place the pot over high heat and cook for 4 minutes. Lower the heat to low and cook for 10 minutes. Set aside.

4 tablespoons olive oil 8 pieces baby bok choy 1 pound Japanese eggplant 1 pound long beans

Continued from page 7 and introduces nutty and sweet undertones. Likewise, the barramundi is served with a tamarind-tomato broth spiked with ginger, lemongrass, tamarind paste and fish sauce. Both dishes are plated with Japanese eggplant, Chinese long beans (a popular Filipino vegetable), and baby bok choy—all locally sourced.

Andres acknowledges he enjoys a unique position as executive chef of the only Filipino fusion restaurant in the city but is eager to share the distinction. “I want to inspire other Filipino chefs to not be afraid. We need to keep pushing the Filipino food movement forward and get the flavors out there,” he says.

For the vegetables: Preheat a sauté pan to high and sauté garlic and ginger in olive oil to golden brown. Add vegetables and sauté for 2 minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste. For the fish: Season sea bass with salt and pepper. Preheat a nonstick pan to high heat then sear fish skin side down for 2 minutes, or until skin is crispy. Flip the fish and cook for additional 4 minutes. Plating: Arrange sautéed vegetables and fingerling potatoes in a large entrée bowl. Place fish on top of the vegetables and pour broth into the bowl from the side (to ensure the skin stays crisp).

Erin Jackson is a food writer/photographer who is passionately committed to hunting down San Diego’s best bites. She shares her finds in several local publications, including DiningOut San Diego, Thrillist and Edible San Diego. Don’t visit her blog (ejeats.com) unless you are prepared to get very hungry.


July-August 2016

edible San Diego


{Kitchen Know-How}

Aguas Frescas Tasty Mocktails All Summer Long

By Erin Jackson

Aguas frescas (Spanish for “fresh waters”) might be the ultimate sipper. Refreshing, light and packed with fruit (or sometimes veggies!) they’re a tasty way to take full advantage of the bounty of spring and summer produce at its flavor peak. Most recipes are simple and straightforward, but if you’re looking to up your game this season, these recipes from Chef Miguel Valdez of The Red Door in Mission Hills are sure to satisfy.

Swipe a citrus wedge (lime, lemon or orange) around the rim of the glass and dip it in Tajín or coarse turbinado sugar for a flavorful and decorative presentation.

3 Easy Ways to Take Your Aguas Frescas to the Next Level

Erin Jackson is a food writer/photographer who is passionately committed to hunting down San Diego’s best bites. She shares her finds in several local publications, including DiningOut San Diego, Thrillist and Edible. Don’t visit her blog (ejeats.com) unless you are prepared to get very hungry.

Serve the aguas frescas with stainless steel straws. They’re stylish, great for the environment and get nice and cold.

Use part of the agua fresca mixture to make ice cubes (instead of plain water) for a bolder-flavored beverage that won’t get diluted as the cubes melt.


Photo: Sam Wells


edible San Diego

July-August 2016

Watermelon and Jalapeño Agua Fresca

Blackberry and Lemongrass Agua Fresca

Carrot Ginger Agua Fresca

Makes 10–12 servings

Makes 8–10 servings

Makes 6 servings

Jalapeño simple syrup:

Lemongrass simple syrup:

6 large carrots, peeled and chopped

3 jalapeño peppers (seeded and deveined)

1 stick lemongrass

2 teaspoons ginger, chopped

2 cups water

¾ cup agave syrup

½ cup agave syrup

1 cup sugar

¾ cup water

7 cups water

1 cup agave syrup

Use a wooden rolling pin or tenderizer to beat and smash the lemongrass. Bring the water and agave to a boil in a small saucepan and add the lemongrass. Remove from heat and cool completely. Strain and discard the lemongrass.

1 pinch salt

Pinch of salt Combine all of the ingredients in a medium saucepan. Bring mixture to a boil, then reduce heat to medium and cook for 20 minutes, stirring frequently. Set aside to cool. For the drink:

For the drink: 4 cups blackberries with 2–4 cups water

1 medium seedless watermelon (cut in small cubes)

8–10 cups water

1 cup jalapeño simple syrup

¼–½ cup fresh lime, to taste

2 limes, juiced

1 pinch salt

1 lemon, sliced

In blender, purée the fruit and water in batches, then strain to remove any seeds or pulp, using a fine sieve or cheesecloth. Add the simple syrup to the strained liquid and dilute with 8–10 cups water. At this point you can adjust the drink to your liking, adding additional agave or water as desired. Serve over ice with sliced lemongrass and blackberries for garnish.

5 cups of water In blender, combine watermelon, jalapeño simple syrup, lime juice and water. Blend for about 30 seconds. Do not strain. Pour into glasses full of ice, garnish with a lemon slice and serve immediately (or refrigerate overnight for a more intense flavor).

Small bunch mint (no stems) 1 red pepper (sliced, with seeds removed) Combine carrots, ginger, agave and three cups water in blender. Blend for 60 seconds, then strain using cheesecloth or thin strainer. Do not push mixture through strainer. Add the remaining 4 cups water and mix together with salt and mint. Pour into glasses full of ice, garnish with red pepper slices and serve immediately (or refrigerate overnight for a more intense flavor).

Note: Fresh blackberries give the beverage more flavor, but you can also substitute frozen berries.

July-August 2016

edible San Diego


Photo: Chris Rov Costa

{Liquid Assets}

From Costa Rica, with Suds

By Brandon Hernández


ucked snugly in the heart of Miramar (or “Beeramar,” as it’s affectionately known for its dense concentration of craft breweries) is a new operation dubbed Pure Project Brewing. The first tenant of developer H.G. Fenton’s “Brewery Igniter” campus—two identical ready-to-brew suites that come furnished with brewhouses, fermentation tanks, cold boxes and customizable tasting bars—it’s decorated with flora and reclaimed wood with a coastal rainforest theme. It looks like something uprooted out of a tropical nation … and it turns out it’s just that. Three years ago, inspired after more than half a decade of traveling to Costa Rica, marrieds Jesse and Agi Pine sold all of their belongings, packed up a pair of cats and moved there with no game plan and no reservations. “We fell in love with the culture and the people, but mostly the nature,” says Jesse. “The untouched areas of Costa Rica are absolutely beautiful, as if they were taken from a fantasy novel.” Six months into their residence, they attended the country’s second annual craft-beer festival and were amazed at how many Costa Ricans were embracing artisanal brews in a big way. While reminiscing about the event with longtime friend and fellow adventurer Mat Robar, the trio started kicking around the idea of opening a craft brewery in Costa Rica.


edible San Diego

July-August 2016

Left to right: Pure Brewing brewer Winslow Sawyer, Mat Robar, Agi Pine and Jesse Pine

“We really wanted to be part of a movement, and help bring together the craft beer culture and Costa Rican culture,” recalls Jesse. “We also wanted to brew beer using the amazing ingredients that we had access to at our local farmers’ market.” The Pines hit the ground running, developing a business plan and touring more potential sites than they can recount. They looked at everything from an old hotel to an up-and-coming marina to empty undeveloped lots. With ocean and jungle views, the sites were breathtaking, but the obstacles to realizing this dream were both many and varied. Structural support, zoning and water treatment were all barriers, but the one that proved insurmountable was being unable to find a way to discharge wastewater in an environmentally friendly way. Says Pine, “We realized a beautiful place like Costa Rica wasn’t the ideal location for someone to ‘manufacture.’” With their desire to open a brewery still burning, the Pines moved back to their former home of San Diego, where they reunited with Mat. They had first-hand knowledge of craft beer’s prominence throughout the county and knew how supportive local government was of the industry. They also felt their concept would work well in San Diego—an environmentally responsible operation crafting highly

refreshing beers designed for perpetually warm weather. They learned of the Brewery Igniter project and appreciated that not having to purchase equipment cuts down on start-up costs while allowing a lower-risk opportunity to test a business’ viability. The rest is a short but successful history. Pure Project is winning over locals with mostly session-able beers (ales and lagers coming in around 5% alcohol-by-volume) featuring myriad fruits, spices and specialty grains. Those unique beers are the work of Winslow Sawyer, a NorCal transplant who separated himself from other head-brewer applicants with the thesis he wrote on sustainability in the brewing industry. He fits right into this interest, which is designated as a One Percent for the Planet Company. One percent of Pure Project’s annual net revenues will be donated to local charities. It’s another unique plus these newcomers bring to our community, and another reason Costa Rica’s loss is San Diego’s gain.


Brandon Hernández is a native San Diegan; editor for West Coaster; correspondent for CW6, marketing manager for AleSmith Brewing; author of Complete Guide to San Diego Breweries and columnist for Pacific San Diego, Ranch & Coast and Celebrator Beer News. Follow him on Twitter (@sdbeernews, @offdutyfoodie)


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July-August 2016

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{Seafood for the Future}

Sustainable opah’s turn on the plate By Elaine J. Masters


new kid swam into town with the tuna catch. Tuna fishermen have discovered a swell supply of opah off the coast of California, caught incidentally on long lines. Tommy Gomes, chief fishmonger at Catalina Offshore Products, has embraced the chance to explore this new protein source. Once a tuna fisherman himself, he knows exactly where they’re being caught. “Take Hawaii and the mainland, put a boat right in the middle, and that’s where they’re fishing.” Lucky for us, opah is coming into San Diego instead of landing on Hawaiian auction blocks. Rich and creamy, it has every reason to be part of sustainable, healthy and delicious dishes at home and on menus. “U.S. wild-caught opah is a smart seafood choice,” a FishWatch report from the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration states, “because it is sustainably managed and responsibly harvested under U.S. regulations.” Incidental catch, like opah, is being managed to reduce waste and support biodiversity. The hope is that locally caught opah will be abundant well into the future. “So long as we have boats coming

into San Diego,” Gomes says, “I’m sure we’ll be the number one buyer.” “They basically look like a big BBQ potato chip,” says Gomes. Large, flat discs, opah flash spotted silver flanks with pink fins, a rosy belly and gold-rimmed eyes. There’s a huge specimen on the wall inside Catalina Offshore’s nutritional educational market. Visit on a Friday or Saturday and you’ll likely find Gomes cooking up opah chili. Fish chili? There’s nothing fishy about it—the ground belly cut cooks up much as beef does, without the meaty tones or cholesterol. A healthy alternative protein, according to the NOAA FishWatch reports, opah is a rich source of omega-3s, protein, niacin, vitamins B6 and B12, phosphorus and selenium. It’s also naturally low in sodium. The dark pink flesh turns white when cooked. Ground from the “tri-tip” abductor muscle, it works well in everything from meatloaf to marinara sauce, and that’s only one of many cuts.

“The abductor muscle is an incredible source of protein with so many different flavor profiles that it’s really exciting,” Gomes says, “and then you have a top loin, center cut, a bottom loin and the belly cut that’s super fatty. I like to tell people who ask how can you cook it—any way you want. You can just beat this fish with a mallet and you won’t damage it, it’s that durable, yet it cooks up extremely soft and moist.” Celebrity Chef Rick Bayless has San Diego opah on the menu at his new place, Leña Brava, in Chicago. Locally, Chef Miguel Valdez explores other options in his kitchen at The Red Door in Mission Hills. His elegant meatballs feature ground opah “tri-tip.” Your friends and family will never guess it’s fish!


Freelance travel writer, blogger and podcast host Elaine J. Masters is rarely home in San Diego. An award-winning writer, her blog, TripWellGal. com guides travelers to unique destinations and cultural experiences.

Photo: Sam Wells


edible San Diego

July-August 2016

Opah Meatballs Recipe adapted from Chef Miguel Valdez as demonstrated at the Collaboration Kitchen event in April 2016. 5 pounds ground opah 1½ cups seasoned breadcrumbs 1 cup chopped sweet onion ½ cup chopped pine nuts 3 teaspoons finely chopped thyme ½ cup Dijon mustard ½ cup garlic, roasted, cleaned and mashed 3 teaspoons salt 2 teaspoons pepper 2 cups feta cheese, crumbled Oil for frying

Mix all ingredients well, except the feta cheese. Add the feta last, to preserve the crumbles, and mix slowly for 20 seconds. Shape into meatballs about 2 inches in diameter. Heat oil in a deep frying pan or a fryer at 375°. Slide meatballs carefully into the hot oil for 1 minute. Remove carefully with a slotted spoon and place them on a sheet pan until ready to bake. To serve, bake in a pre-heated oven at 350° for about 5 minutes. Test 1 before serving to be sure it’s cooked through.

Coupon expires 8/31/2016 at 6 p.m.

July-August 2016

edible San Diego


Dreams Come True with Garden Kitchen By Stephanie M. Casey

Photos by Lyudmila Zotova

ommunity isn’t necessarily the first thing a restaurateur focuses on but for Coral Strong, it is the core of her new Rolando spot, Garden Kitchen. The theme comes up again and again at this cozy neighborhood eatery.

generated daily. If a batch of turnips comes in, the first day they may be sautéed as a side with the turnip tops used in a pesto for the next day. Then any leftover pesto becomes a spread for a bread appetizer. The restaurant’s trash and recycling bins are residence-sized and not even filled within a week. Scraps become compost, which is collected by customers for use in their gardens. Being a good citizen of the neighborhood and planet are equally important to the restaurant’s ethos.


For a long time, Coral envisioned a place where every aspect of the business aligned with her personal ideals. It was still a fantasy about a year ago when she and her husband strolled past a “for rent” sign on a corner bodega. A few weeks later, Garden Kitchen planning began. Two goals were her guide: Cook everything from scratch and know where the ingredients come from. Coral lived in Costa Rica when she was young and holds fond memories of the large community kitchen there. At mealtime, the women would gather—laughing, debating the best way to prep a dish, tomatoes flying, kids afoot. This childhood influence carried over. “I just want to cook for people and make them happy!” she says. Garden Kitchen’s food starts with quality ingredients—produce is organic as much as possible. Coral sources from farms such as Be Wise Ranch and Suzie’s Farm and strives for little to no waste. A new menu is


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July-August 2016

A small operation, only two people will touch the food before it’s placed in front of a customer. Coral comes out to chat with every table during service and strives to provide the best experience possible. “If someone has chosen to spend their hard-earned money in my restaurant, I want them to be comfortable and get what they need!” To that end, all menu items are built with common diet restrictions in mind. Most dishes can be easily modified to accommodate nut or gluten sensitivities and vegan/vegetarian diets. Even the meats, seafood and wines are local and organic whenever possible. Cutting down steps between plant cultivation, transport and use while heavily curbing waste is an indication of true “real food.” It doesn’t get more real than this. At Garden Kitchen, you get the personal touch

Coral Strong

at every stage in a casual, happy environment and are guaranteed a fresh, quality meal from seasonal, local ingredients at their best. “Does it cost me more to offer this kind of food?” Coral asks. “Yes. Is it worth it? Yes. Customer reception is more than I could have ever hoped for and when plates come back to kitchen scraped clean, you know you are doing the right thing.”


Garden Kitchen 4204 Rolando Blvd. San Diego, CA 92115 GardenKitchenSD.com Follow Stephanie, along with Real Fine Food on instagram @realfinefood for the best things happening with plates, people and plants.

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July-August 2016

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he next time you’re at a seafood restaurant, ask your server which dishes feature San Diego seafood. You’ll be lucky if he or she lists one or two dishes, even at restaurants with ocean views and “fish” in the name. Why is this? Why is it so hard to find local seafood locally? Turns out, it’s due to a combination of cheap competition, rigorous regulations, not enough fishermen to supply America’s Finest City and a lucrative export industry.

The Cost of Sustainability “It’s easy for wholesalers to buy imported seafood. It’s cheap. They don’t have the regulations we have,” says David Haworth, who’s been a commercial fisherman in San Diego for over 40 years. Haworth has five fishing vessels that harvest everything from tuna to lobster to anchovy. U.S. fishermen like Haworth are among the most regulated in the world, he says. They are subject not only to a variety of fishing regulations, which change with the seasons, years and fisheries, but also to labor, environmental and health laws. If they catch too many fish or harm protected species, like whales, they face consequences like closing the fishery, or changing gear or location. U.S. regulations are meant to ensure sustainability. In fact, the number of overfished populations in the U.S. is decreasing. However, these regulations increase the cost of getting a U.S.– caught fish from the ocean to your plate. This higher cost plus America’s preference for cheap equals a wide selection of seafood imported from countries with few regulations and inexpensive labor—like frozen shrimp for $7.99 per pound, produced with slave labor or on the graveyards of mangrove forests—and a small or nonexistent selection of local seafood.

The San Diego Seafood Scene

San Diego’s Seafood Challenge Story and photos by Sarah M. Shoffler

In order to supply all 1.3 million San Diegans the half-pound of seafood that the USDA recommends we eat each week, we’d need about 15 times the 2.3 million pounds that San Diego fishermen have caught in most recent years . What happened to the area once touted as the Tuna Capital of the World? “Fishing regulations make it difficult to gain access to fishing these days,” says commercial fisherman Dan Major, who fishes everything but spot prawn from Point Conception to the Mexico border. In some fisheries, like spot prawn, there’s a limited number of permits and they can be costly. Some estimate that spot prawn permits are worth $250,000 to $350,000. These are outliers, but any permit is valuable. “The value of my permits is high, which means less competition. This allows me to consistently provide quality products,” Major says. Overall, the cost of entering a fishery—permits, gear, boat and complying with regulations—limits the number of new entrants. Major says there are only about two dozen small-scale fishermen in San Diego who fish for their livelihoods. What about already-established fishermen who want to call San Diego their homeport? “San Diego needs infrastructure to support a larger fishing industry,” says Pete Halmay, a San Diego sea urchin fisherman.


Left: Rockfish harvested and sold by San Diego fishermen at the Tuna Harbor Dockside Market

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“We need unfettered access to a good crane for offloading boats. We need ice machines, freezers and refrigerator space and a wet floor for small-scale processing.” Without this infrastructure, it’s difficult to lure new or established fishermen to dock in San Diego. “Twenty to 25% of my catch stays in San Diego,” says Haworth. Kate Masury and Emily Tripp, master’s students at the Scripps Institution of Oceanography, are researching sustainability and traceability in local fisheries. Their research suggests that we don’t find local seafood locally because much is exported. “Overall, between 95% and 99% of California spiny lobsters are sold abroad to the Chinese market,” says Masury. Major and Haworth confirm they sell 95% to 99% of their lobster to wholesalers, for $18–25 a pound, who export most to China. San Diego restaurants and groceries can’t afford to sell California lobster because San Diegans wouldn’t buy them at what would be the marked up price.

Locally Caught Market Squid Also Has A Trans-Pacific Tale “A significant portion [about 90%] is shipped [frozen] to facilities in China where it’s unfrozen, cut and cleaned, and then refrozen for additional shipping,” Tripp says. “Much of it gets consumed in China … but a small portion comes back to the U.S.” Meaning that the calamari you ate most likely crossed the Pacific at least once. How local is that?

How To Fill Your Plate Locally • When eating out or grocery shopping, ask for seafood caught by San Diego fishermen. • Diversify what you eat and try new things. San Diego fishermen catch boatloads of “under-loved” species, such as whelk and box crabs. • Support local fishermen and their businesses. With the planned redevelopment of the waterfront, our city has the opportunity to invest in its food system. Redevelopment could go one of two ways, Halmay says: “The fishing infrastructure will be downsized as they make the waterfront into another yacht marina, or the area will be improved into a world-class working fishing harbor with all the infrastructure we need to provide sustainable seafood to San Diego.”


Sarah is a fishery biologist, seafood enthusiast, foodie philosopher and board member of Slow Food Urban San Diego. Most Saturdays you can find her eyeing the fish at Tuna Harbor Dockside Market or surfing La Jolla Shores. She recommends the science-based user-friendly FishWatch.gov for learning about sustainable seafood.

Top to bottom: Yellowfin tuna, caught offshore California, in the hold of Zephyr; direct sales of local seafood at Tuna Harbor Dockside Market; San Diego fisherman Richard Yoder and spot prawns July-August 2016

edible San Diego


Local Chef’s Quest to “Bring Home the Bacon” By Aimee Della Bitta


ocals in the North Park community were instantly impressed with Carnitas’ Snack Shack when it opened its window for business in 2011 and its easy to understand why. Husband-and-wife team Hanis Cavin and Sara Stroud have spent the majority of their lives in the restaurant industry and their combined experience enabled them to bring both wisdom and conviction to their first joint venture. They opened the pork-centric “Snack Shack,” as it’s been affectionately dubbed by locals, with the intention of offering customers delicious dishes made from humanely raised, sustainable meat and locally sourced produce.

In 2014 the seasoned duo made the decision to expand; they opened their second location in Carmel Valley at the Del Mar Highlands Town Center. As the restaurant chain grew, their volume increased and the demands on sourcing changed. It was during this time that Cavin realized that in order to maintain the quality of their product, they needed to look to bigger farms to get their protein. He explains that “as much as I wanted to stay local, I realized I was doing more harm than good by sourcing from only California farms.” The drought and other environmental issues make it difficult and very expensive for small farms in San Diego to raise animals. In an effort to meet the demands of a growing restaurant franchise and stay true to the commitment of offering a sustainable, humanely raised protein, Cavin decided to visit Murphy Brown Farms in Nebraska. “I went in

person to visit their farm, meet the workers [and] learn about how they process the animals,” he says. After seeing their facilities, Cavin believed Murphy Brown Farms was the obvious choice. “They breed their own stock, which means the cattle is raised on the farm and never outsourced. This enables them to control the disease and sickness without injecting the animals with antibiotics and hormones. These steps make a huge difference in how the animals live.” As local business supporters, Cavin and Stroud choose to buy locally whenever that option makes the most sense. Working with Specialty Produce, they are able to source at least 50% of their produce locally. They also work with local artisan bakers like Sadie Rose Baking Company and Dudley’s Bakery for their handmade breads and rolls. It’s through Cavin’s ongoing quest and commitment to offering customers the finest quality possible that he’s learned that the best thing you can do for your business and for your customers is to buy what works from the land where it’s grown and raised.


Aimee Della Bitta is a San Diego–based writer and freelance marketing consultant. She specializes in brand building, on-point promotional copy and creative messaging for editorial and corporate clients. She spends her free time trying out new recipes, hanging out with her two kids and husband and enjoying the beautiful seaside town she’s happy to call home.

Photo: Chris Rov Costa

“What I’ve found through many years of cooking is that the more humanely raised the animals, the tastier the meat. I was lucky

enough to be able to travel to pig farms and see the operation. It is through visiting the farm and talking to farmers and the workers of the processing plant that I was able to learn more about each step in the life and processing of the animals and that all of those steps mattered,” said Chef Cavin.


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July-August 2016

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July-August 2016

{Liquid Assets}

East County vineyards and wineries are beginning to come of age

By Robin Dorhn-Simpson Photos by Chris Rov Costa Adventurous wine tasters, take note: Highway 94 is more than just a fun, back road, scenic country drive. A drive on the two-lane highway east of Rancho San Diego will take you through the towns of Jamul, Dulzura, Barrett Junction, Potrero and Campo. This is the Highway 94 Wine Trail. Off the beaten track. Not Napa. No tour buses...yet. In summertime, the vines are green, laden with fruit starting to ripen. The cool afternoon breeze blows through your hair and reminds you that you’re only 25 or 30 miles inland from the ocean. Hillsides have transitioned from vibrant Kelly green to a golden brown. Ancient California oaks, black oaks and cottonwood trees dot the landscape. This is the iconic view of Southern California back country. Life moves slower out here. Spend an afternoon exploring the vineyards, admiring the vistas, tasting award-winning wines at the charming and historic tasting rooms or having a picnic among the vines.

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They are also experimenting with Pinot Gris and Marsanne. The winery is young and still finding its way. Winemaker Sarah Spotts is celebrating a silver medal awarded at the 2014 San Diego International Wine Competition. Visit their tasting room on Saturday or Sunday and experience all that East County has to offer. (619) 433-9896

The Casi Cielo Winery at Maness Vineyards “If you have a dream and you work hard at it, it can come true,” says Greg Maness of his dream of opening a winery. For years Greg has been the cheerleader and champion for all the other wineries in the county, and now it’s his turn.

Dulzura Winery Located on the historic Clark Ranch, homesteaded in 1885, it is still owned by the Clark family. The tasting room once was the “Pickle House” where in 1902 Lila Clark produced and sold her famous pickled figs. Winery co-owners Grant Spotts and Terry Winnette have been collaborating since 2008, when they planted four acres of grapes. Today they offer Viognier, Chardonnay and Riesling for their white wines and they’re making a name for themselves with their full-bodied red wines: hearty Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, robust Zinfandel and a fruit-forward Malbec. Sip wine on the patio or in the vineyard in their two-story lookout tasting patio. (619) 468-3769

Granite Lion Cellars Big things are happening at this winery. While it is relatively new, owner Joseph Knutsen has big plans: vineyard homes, a clubhouse, a new wine tasting room and more acres of grapes to be planted. Currently four of their 500 acres are planted with 15 different varietals including Tannat, Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot. 24

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Today, Casi Cielo (Almost Heaven), is open to the public. Maness, vineyard designer and installer, creates turn-key vineyards for people throughout San Diego. Along with his wife, Dr. Paula, they have worked vigorously at planting and experimenting with different grape varietals to see which ones work best with their soils. A favorite of Winemaker John Keily is his Chardonnay and Viognier blend, called PJs Blend. Their property is a “must see” in East County: a historic adobe brick house built in Rancho Mission architecture style that takes you back to the days of old California. Greg is a collector of art; if you’re lucky

he might show you some of his bronzes or cherished paintings. (619) 251-1819

Deerhorn Valley Vineyards One of the newest wineries on the trail, Deerhorn Valley Vineyards is on the eastern slope of Lyons Peak, which cascades down to verdant Deerhorn Valley. The vineyard boasts newly planted Chardonnay along with mature vines of Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Sangiovese and Zinfandel. Their 2013 Cabernet Franc was awarded a silver medal at the Toast of the Coast at the Del Mar Fairgrounds in 2016. Look for great wines to come out of this winery in the next year. New owners Dianne and Robert Collis are learning the ropes and getting their feet dirty in the winemaking process. (619) 468-0030 These wine pioneers are hearty people who all share the same passion: farming the land, making wine and enjoying the quiet countryside. Sit down with the winemakers and talk about their inspiration for their wines or their wineries. Many people have planted vineyards and will be opening tasting rooms in the next few years. Watch this entire wine region grow and remember it’s a secret—enjoy it before the word gets out. For current happenings or a map go to: TheWineriesOnHighway94.com.


Robin is a member of the International Food Wine & Travel Writers Association. RobinDohrnSimpson.com

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July-August 2016

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CBD oil: Cannabis mega-hype or holistic medicine breakthrough? By Lauren Mahan Since CNN’s Dr. Sanjay Gupta’s groundbreaking 2014 documentary on the medicinal benefits of marijuana-based cannabidiol oil (CBD), both users and producers have come out of the woodwork in an effort to spread the word about CBD’s amazing, though sometimes anecdotal, success in treating everything from epilepsy and Parkinson’s disease to various forms of cancer. With CBD now available in many states, we felt it important to share the journey of our friend Karen Archipley—cofounder of Archi’s Institute for Sustainable Agriculture (archisinstitute.com) and Archi’s Acres organic farm—who is finding her own path to recovery, using a combination of traditional medicine and naturopathic healing to treat her breast cancer.

ESD: How did you find out that you had breast cancer? KAREN: Following a 2009 mammogram indicating I had breast cancer, I opted not to have a lumpectomy, radiation or chemo. Instead I used an organic herb called ashitaba and turned to an all organic diet, with good results. Then in 2014, following

a surgery that left me severely weakened for six months, the breast cancer returned. This time it was stage 4 in both breasts and had spread to my bones, lungs and sternum.

ESD: Is that when you turned to CBD oil? KAREN: I was able to get a prescription for medical marijuana at a local alternative care clinic. So in 2014 I began taking Rick Simpson Oil (which I had known about since 2009), in addition to two traditional drugs—Femara and Zometa, which my oncologist later switched to Ibrance plus a shot called Xgeva to keep the cancer from spreading. Six months later I was showing 90% less tumors. Following a routine PET scan in September 2015, my oncologist called to say I had no live cancer in my body! That doesn’t mean I am in complete remission, but it was definitely good news. ESD: Do you plan to continue with both the traditional and the CBD oil treatments? KAREN: Yes. I finally settled on a reduced dosage of CBD that has a very small amount of THC, the component that makes you high. I take it along with my

“Cannabis has been used for millennia in cultures throughout the world as a curative for ailments of both mind and body. More recently, patients undergoing treatment for HIV shared that cannabis increased appetite. Multiple sclerosis patients reported that cannabis relieved stiffness and pain. And a few cancer patients, for whom allopathic treatments failed, found that cannabis could occasionally help the body overcome drug-resistant tumors.” A ndrew Weil, M.D., in a forward to Cannabis Pharmacy by Michael Backes


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Karen Archipley

other traditional meds, and have found that I have been able to reduce the dosage of CBD. I could probably even drive while taking CBD since the dose is so small, but I choose not to do so. So I take it at home in the evening before bed. I also drink CBD-infused Nano water by Solar Rain. As of this writing, Karen Archipley’s breast cancer markers had been reduced from 204 to 22. Normal range is 0 to 25.


Lauren Mahan is a freelance writer with over 30 years’ experience based in Valley Center, North Park, and Baja. She is the Tidbits editor for Edible San Diego, as well as a frequent feature article contributor. She is a 10-year breast

Solar ®

straight from a cloud

cancer survivor.

RESOURCES: The Pot Book, Dr. Julie Holland Cannabis Pharmacy, Michael Backes “Weed,” Dr. Sanjay Gupta, CNN documentary (February 22, 2014, available on YouTube) Solar Rain’s CBD-infused Nano water (cbdnaturals.com) is available at Cream of the Crop in Oceanside (creamofthecropnatural.com)

Photo: Chris Rov Costa

July-August 2016

edible San Diego


Rio Del Rey Heirloom Beans Preserving our native legacy By Lauren Mahan


ike Reeske is a man with a vision: to revive and reintroduce beans from our earliest history that deliver significantly better taste and depth of flavor than commercially processed dried beans, many of which sit on store shelves literally for years. A retired high school science teacher and author of 13 books, Reeske and his wife, Chris, lease 27 acres in Pauma Valley, where their certified organic, non-GMO beans are planted in late April and harvested at the end of August through September. They are then passed through a small sorting machine in their Valley Center garage to remove broken pieces and debris. The final process of sorting the beans by color, which at a large commercial processing plant would be done using lasers, is still done by hand. This, according to Reeske, results in beans that are less uniform in color and flavor, and thus more interesting. “It’s just like coffee,” Reeske says. “Fifty years ago, we all drank one basic kind of coffee. But today we have so many more choices, with coffee beans sourced from throughout 28

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Photos by Chris Rov Costa

the globe, offering subtle nuances of taste and color.” Reeske hopes to achieve the same diversity with his heirloom beans. “Heirloom beans all have different flavor profiles, so they cook differently and meld differently with other foods,” he adds. “They also retain more of their health benefits, like fiber and low-fat protein, which help to lower cholesterol and stabilize blood sugar.” In addition to varieties collected through their travels, the couple source many of their beans through Native Seeds/SEARCH, a Tucson-based nonprofit seed bank established in 1983. According to Reeske, Native Americans have been passing down bean seeds and recipes for thousands of years, which explains why his brand, Rio Del Rey Heirloom Beans, carries names like Ayocote Morado and Cherokee Trail of Tears, reflecting their Native American heritage. Reeske’s first encounter with heirloom beans was with a variety known as Rio Zape, first discovered in caves in New Mexico estimated to be over 1,200 years old. “These were like no other beans I had ever tasted,” he

recalls. “They were meatier and full of flavor, even prepared with just garlic, onions and salt.” Beans are native to North and South America. By contrast, Old World beans, like fava and garbanzo, are actually legumes that for centuries have played a key role in European and Middle Eastern cuisines. So when real beans were first introduced back home by Spanish and Portuguese explorers, local cooks had no trouble integrating them into existing recipes. The result: traditional dishes like Paella Valenciana and French cassoulet that reflect a mixture of Old World cooking and New World beans. Rio Del Rey Heirloom Beans are available at the Rincon and Valley Center farmers’ markets and at Major Market in Escondido and Fallbrook, with plans in the works to expand distribution. They can also be purchased at RioDelReyBeans.com.


Lauren Mahan is a freelance writer with over 30 years’ experience based in Valley Center, North Park and points south (Baja). She is the Tidbits editor for Edible San Diego and a frequent feature article contributor.

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edible San Diego


It Takes a Village Local Businesses Collaborate to Make Healthy Meats More Available By Noreen Kompanik Photos by Jaime Fritsch


enry Ford once wrote: “Coming together is a beginning. Keeping together is progress. Working together is success.” Sometimes a problem can have so many facets, it takes more than a few to conquer it. And so it is with the challenge of producing enough local, sustainable and humanely raised meat to satisfy the needs of a growing San Diego market. One association of like-minded farmers in Alpine is working together with a local San Diego retail produce supplier and a Ventura County butcher in hopes of making the process easier and more cost effective. Nathan Rakov of Tzaddik Farms and Jeff Bloom of Bloom Family Farms raise livestock and chickens on their fertile farmlands surrounded by the picturesque Cuyamaca Mountains of Alpine. Friends since middle school, they market their specialty meats under the label Alpine Meats. Both farmers are dedicated to the goal of producing healthy, quality meat products

for their local market. They adhere to the philosophy “know your farmer, know your food,” which translates into consumers knowing where the animal was raised and what it was fed. Their animals have been bred and raised locally using no hormones, antibiotics or medicated feeds. Nathan is engaging with a local biologist to develop even healthier sustainable feeds to replace soy and corn components with locally produced resources such as beer grain for livestock feed and grape seed from area vineyards for his chickens. Cassandra Poindexter, retail manager of Specialty Produce, a family owned and operated premium fresh produce supplier, cites an ever-increasing consumer demand for quality meats. “Once a consumer tastes the difference between the incredible quality of local farm-raised meat and what they purchase at a regular grocery store, they don’t want to settle for less.” She adds, “Even though it’s expensive, there’s a definite demand for more.”

Below: Nathan Rakov of Tzaddik Farms and Jeff Bloom of Bloom Family Farms


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“The real solution to better food is making the process easier for local farmers to sell their meats.” ~Nathan Rakov Because there is no USDA-approved local slaughter or processing facility, area farmers must transport their livestock to remote sites in places like southwest Los Angeles County’s Pico Rivera for slaughter (also called harvesting). The quality meat must then be moved another 75 miles for processing to a cut-and-wrap facility before finally being returned to San Diego to market. Acknowledging the costs and the resulting minimal profit margin, these farmers are still steadfastly committed. More profit is not their ultimate goal. Nathan says, “The real solution to better food is making the process easier for local farmers to sell their meats.” He and Jeff hope to create a workable model for other farmers to follow. Jeff says they’ve met with the local Farm Bureau and are actively engaged with community businesses and fellow farmers in the Japatul Valley in search of answers. The ideal solution would be a local slaughterhouse and distribution center. But this path is fraught with challenges. Estimates run as high as $250,000 to build and equip a USDA-certified facility. The certification process alone could easily take five to six years. A mobile facility would be nearly as expensive with more limitations in capacity and site restrictions. The funds for either option are currently lacking. Additionally, any meat processing operation would require a costly secondary facility to handle and treat disposable waste and water in accordance with Regional Water Quality Control Board standards before they can be safely returned to local lands contamination-free. The location of a processing facility is also problematic. Though Alpine is primarily a rural community, it’s part of greater San Diego County, which has a decidedly more urban mindset. According to Nathan, “The community definitely wants healthier

Above: Tzaddik Farms heritage pigs and chickens dine al fresco and roam free on the farm

food, but doesn’t necessarily want to see the animals slaughtered and processed in their own backyards.” Despite these challenges, these highly motivated local farmers remain undaunted in their quest and commitment to find solutions, even interim ones. And Kent Short of Old Fashion Country Butcher in Santa Paula, California, appears to have one. Nathan and Jeff already use Kent’s cut-and-wrap facility for processing their meats. Responding to the needs of Southern California farmers, Kent made a decision to become USDA certified as both a harvesting and processing facility. This costly process has taken over two years, but at the time of publication, according to Kent, “we should be certified in no more than 30 to 60 days.” What this means to local farmers is an

easier, less expensive and more efficient process. Both Nathan and Jeff have steers ready for Santa Paula once the certification process is final. The farmers then plan to expand their healthy, locally raised livestock offerings to include pork, lamb and goat. And they hope to further increase production by encouraging other local farmers to join the cause. The great news for San Diego consumers is that because of these efforts, more local, farm-raised, healthy, quality meats may soon be available through area businesses like Specialty Produce.


Noreen Kompanik is an independent travel writer and San Diego resident. She has a passion for adventure, cooking, wine and travel. Her published stories can be seen on her Facebook site What’s In Your Suitcase? July-August 2016

edible San Diego


{The Good Earth}

Eli’s Farms I

n all honesty, I had an idyllic intention for this story. Eli Hofshi, owner of Eli’s Farms, refers to it as the “romantic image”—one of farmers’ hands dirtied with soil, cultivating delicious fruits and vegetables. Such naiveté often collides with facts, though, and the reality for small sustainable farms in Southern California is that they face significant challenges. From water quality and pests to weed control and urban sprawl, it’s becoming harder and harder for small farmers to support their families.

farming. “This is what I like doing,” he says. “I like being out in the dirt. At the same time, I feel the pocketbook is getting dinged. It is really difficult.” Prior to driving to his Fallbrook farm from San Diego, I agreed to meet him in San Marcos to discuss his newest endeavor: a hydroponics greenhouse. The 130,000-square-foot behemoth was once the site of a plant nursery and organic tomato farm. Within minutes of walking through the front door, Eli starts to tell me how much he believes hydroponics is the future of farming, at least in our region, and that traditional methods are “absolutely something of the past.”

Eli has never had to combat so many issues at once in all the 30 years he’s been

The Brave New World of Farming I can’t wrap my mind around a different way of farming, so I ask Eli for clarification. “Water and labor, all these new pests that we have,” he says. “We don’t have pesticides that are effective on a lot of this stuff, organic or nonorganic. A lot of the vegetables can’t really grow outside all year round, not as we used to.”

By Amanda Kelly Photos by Chris Rov Costa Inside the greenhouse, squares of stark white styrofoam float in water pools and contrast with the robust leafy heads of chard and lettuce. As Eli and two of his partners, Alex Gonzalez and Amiran Shahar, give me a tour of the greenhouse, two female workers shift the styrofoam pods to block out light and prevent algal growth. Everything is controlled and clean—a reverse osmosis system removes chemicals and treatment additives from the water, and the air coming into the greenhouse is filtered. My guides allow me to break off stems of leaves and eat straight from the source— pea shoots and then kale—with bursts of flavor so rich I find myself saying “beautiful” rather than “delicious.” The Hofshi family is investing in this project. Gonzalez is a managing partner and Shahar is contributing his expertise in plant nutrition. Eventually, Eli Hofshi

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“To provide a product that is purer than what you see commercially,” he says, “I think there needs to be an appreciation for what we do, if this is to continue.”

there will be a storefront for the community to buy straight from the greenhouse. Furthermore, the operation will be able to sell to grocery stores due to the uniformity of the produce—something Eli is quick to point out is not possible in the field. Later, beneath grey skies and an ironically bitter wind in Fallbrook, Eli and I talk about the greenhouse as the way of the future, about getting produce to taste sweet and repel pests. “This is my preference,” he says, meaning traditional farming with its reliance on soil, its good years and bad, rain and no rain. “But I think it’s just something that’s not viable.”

Dozens of chickens cluck busily in a wire pen. Eli shows me a plot of peppers that were able to grow through the winter this year as temperatures have been warmer than in the past. A while later, I’m plucking strawberries from a flowering plant. The berries are safe to eat straight from the ground because Eli doesn’t treat his produce—not even organic herbicides or pesticides. Every section of this 200-acre farm is planted with something—arugula, radishes, beets, carrots and onions—and the wildness of the land is obvious, but so are the residential properties I witnessed driving here. Most of the time, Eli works 15 hours days, seven days a week.

He climbs through a patch of brambly plants to point out a few sprigs of black kale, indiscernible from the weeds. “This is a field we finally gave up on,” he says. “I’ve been doing this all my life. It wasn’t so much the money as I always enjoyed growing things.”

“To provide a product that is purer than what you see commercially,” he says, “I think there needs to be an appreciation for what we do, if this is to continue.” I can’t help but wonder, though, as Eli and I discuss water, climate, pests and weeds

the rest of the afternoon, have we all but guaranteed that this is our future? That farmers should struggle until they can’t sustain themselves? I don’t know that answer. But what stands out in my mind is the contrast of Eli’s broken rugged soil, wild with weeds, to the sleek futuristic greenhouse I saw earlier. My romantic earth against the reality of a farmer’s: one bone dry and the other? Thriving.


Amanda Kelly is a writer and editor based in San Diego. Her work has been published in regional magazines in northwest Florida and in California. She strives to inspire a greater appreciation for the interconnectedness of our natural world through stories about real people, real places and the environment. AmandaKelly.Wordpress.com.

Eli’s Farms 2929 East Mission Rd Fallbrook, CA 92028 (760) 468-3370 ehofshi@gmail.com

July-August 2016

edible San Diego


Good Neighbor Gardens

Sustainable Sharecropping in Urban San Diego By Paul Hormick


ver here, we just harvested kohlrabi, and over here we just put in some tomatoes.” Mia Vaughnes is standing among several raised beds that run from the front yard to the back of this North Park home. The beds are filled with squash, string beans and lettuce. “This was our first garden,” she says, as she picks up a handful of dark, rich earth. For the last three years Vaughnes has spearheaded Good Neighbor Gardens, her urban sharecropping program that is transforming San Diego’s backyards and open lots into a network of food gardens. Her goal is to create the equivalent of one large urban farm, one garden at a time. Knowing that many San Diegans would love to garden but lack the time or experience, Vaughnes set up Good Neighbor Gardens to enhance pre-existing gardens or install completely new designs for interested homeowners. For a new participant, Vaughnes and her crew assess the property’s requirements, such as irrigation, then present a garden plan to the homeowner. “There are four basic plans that people can get involved with, but we also customize to suit individual needs and circumstances,” she says. Once the bit of urban farm is installed, a farmhand regularly tends the plants to ensure a proper harvest. Garden hosts, who are also referred to as Gracious Neighbors by Good Neighbor Gardens, can get involved with weeding and planting if they want, but if they don’t want to raise a finger, that’s OK too. The extra corn, rutabagas, and other vegetables that garden hosts don’t eat are gathered and distributed to other garden hosts in something of an exchange. For his extra tomatoes, for example, a host receives extra corn or radishes from other participants. Those who don’t have a backyard or don’t care to garden but still want to enjoy their neighbors’ bounty can sign up with Good Neighbor Gardens to regularly receive a basket of produce. Everything is extra fresh. What is harvested today is delivered today. Good Neighbor Gardens also has four locations where people can pick up baskets of produce every other Wednesday. Vaughnes refers to the food produced through Good Neighbor Gardens as hyper-local. “The food grown in Pacific Beach is eaten in Pacific Beach. The food for North Park comes from North Park,” she says. As well, the farmhands live in the neighborhoods of the gardens they tend.

Photo courtesy of Good Neighbor Gardens

Vaughnes considerably downsized her life to devote herself full-time to creating the urban sharecropping network. “I had two homes. I lived in La Jolla, but I’d been praying for my purpose,” says the former financial planner.


edible San Diego

July-August 2016

Collaboration and Convenience Julianne Markow contacted Vaughnes after a farmhand showed her a Good Neighbor Garden in her neighborhood. “I had all this dead grass in the backyard, and I thought that a vegetable garden would be a lot prettier and more sustainable,” she says. “We met a few times. Mia is very collaborative. She nicely guided me to a better design than the one I had originally proposed.” Left: Carrie Van Tatenhove, Good Neighbor Gardens host.

Molly Meekin has had a Good Neighbor Garden since January 2015. “I already had a garden, but I just dabbled. I really didn’t know what I was doing,” she says. She became a sharecropper after chancing across a presentation by Mia Vaughnes Vaughnes at People’s Organic Foods Market in Ocean Beach “I was so impressed. I liked that my food could also contribute to others. I grow more than I can consume.”

Photo courtesy of Good Neighbor Gardens

According to Vaughnes, household gardens help combat climate change by sequestering carbon in the soil. “And we aim for zero waste,” she adds.

Good Neighbor Gardens helped with an unused irrigation system, and now Meekin gets most of her irrigation from rainwater. She often travels for her work and appreciates that there is someone to tend the garden when she is out of town. “It’s the greatest thing!” she says. “When I’m home and the farmhand comes around, it’s like visiting with a friend, and I’ve learned a lot about gardening.” From the start, Good Neighbor Gardens has involved schools, with the hope of teaching the next generation about the virtues of home gardening. There are now four elementary schools involved, with plans of extending the program into middle and high schools.

Winner of

BEST ITALIAN RESTAURANT Critics Pick & Readers’ Pick BEST CHEF, Accursio Lota Readers’ Pick 2820 Roosevelt Road • Liberty Station, Point Loma • 619-270-9670 • solarelounge.com

COOK . CREATE . INSPIRE “ At Bastyr I have learned

critical ways that nutrition plays a role in natural medicine and health care. Lisa Holman, MS (2014)

Besides being an agricultural endeavor, Vaughnes thinks of Good Neighbor Gardens as a social development project. She says, “We’re not just growing food. We’re helping to build communities. All our neighbors know each other now, and that’s super cool!”

Create a Healthier World with a Master of Science in Nutrition for Wellness degree.


Paul Hormick is an environmentalist and horticulturist. As a freelance writer, his interests are the environment, current events, music and the arts. He is the author of As We Believe: Conversations of Religion and Faith. Paul lives in San Diego with his wife, Bryna.


Bastyr.is/Consider • 855-4-BASTYR • San Diego


tre e S Stat

We bring the farm to you. • 21st YEAR OF OPERATION • @lmmarket


July-August 2016

edible San Diego


Once Upon a Farm Takes Baby Food to a New Level By Leah R. Singer


ike all mothers, Cassandra Curtis wants only the best for her two daughters. As someone with a background in nutrition and organic living, she planned to make her children’s baby food from scratch in her kitchen. She quickly realized that being a mom, working and being a chef did not coexist as easily as she had imagined. So Curtis did what most parents do for their children: went to the store to buy fresh baby food that would be similar in taste and quality of something she would make at home. However, she quickly realized that nothing like this existed. Four years ago, when her first daughter was born, the only viable option was baby food housed at room temperature on the shelf. Seeing this void—coupled with her own passion for high-quality baby food—led to the beginning of Once Upon a Farm. “I wanted to bring something high-quality and fresh to moms like me,” said Curtis, La Jolla resident and chief innovation officer of Once Upon a Farm. She began crafting baby food recipes inspired by the creations she was making at home for her daughter. Once Upon a Farm offers 10 recipes, including Green Kale and Apples, Magic Velvet Mango and Oh My Mega Veggie that’s loaded with apples, carrots, beets and ginger. Each recipe includes healthy fats, which are added for optimal organ development and help with absorption of vitamins and minerals in other veggies. The products are 100% organic, certified non-GMO and tested by the experts: 1,300 infants who give their seal of approval. The recipes are also tested and refined by nutritionists. The produce in each baby food is sourced from local farms in California, as well as a few high-quality farms in the Pacific Northwest. “We work with farms where we can get high-quality ingredients and [who] have great missions and visions,” said Curtis. “For example, the blueberries and strawberries we use are grown on farms in Washington with iron-rich soil that gives the fruit even better color and taste.” One of the biggest differences between Once Upon a Farm and other baby food manufacturers is the product is produced using high-pressure processing rather than the more common thermal pasteurization. This 36

edible San Diego

July-August 2016

means the nutrients, texture and aroma of the original food stays true, and there are no preservatives or synthetic vitamins. “If it’s a mango, it will taste just like a fresh mango,” said Curtis. “The baby foods on the shelf look different in color and are often sweeter. Babies should be eating food that tastes just like the real food because when they’re first tasting, they need to experience what food actually tastes like. If they eat the shelf food, they develop a sweet tooth. With our food, they develop a palate for fresher foods later in life.” When Curtis started selling Once Upon a Farm baby food at San Diego farmers’ markets in 2014, the response was huge. Their products are now available for purchase online as well as in Jimbo’s, Sprouts, Windmill Farms, Bristol Farms and People’s Co-op. Several San Diego–area Costco stores also carry the baby food, and it is being distributed along the East Coast and Northern California in Whole Foods Markets. Curtis is quick to point out that not only babies love Once Upon a Farm products. “They make great snacks for older kids and adults,” said Curtis. Many older adults who cannot eat solid food for health reasons are using Once Upon a Farm to make sure they consume their daily dose of fruits and veggies.


Leah R. Singer is a freelance writer who is passionate about cooking, healthy living and supporting San Diego’s small businesses and entrepreneurs. She is the editor for Red Tricycle San Diego, and writes regularly for The Huffington Post, Babble, Scary Mommy and numerous other national blogs and websites. Follow Leah on Twitter @leahs_thoughts.

Dominick Fiume

{Resources & Advertisers}

Real Estate Broker

Join us in thanking these advertisers for their local and sustainable ethic by supporting them with your business.

{Local Marketplace} Come t o

330 A Street, Ste 4 San Diego, EVENTSCa 92101 BASTYR UNIVERSITY CLINIC

July 21 – Healthy Cooking Foundation

Class: Cooking with Animal Proteins, 619-543-9500 6-7:30pm at Bastyr Univ. Clinic, 4110

CalBRESorrento No. 01017892 Vly. Blvd. SD 92121; July 25 – Free Community Talk: Natural Therapies for Stress Management, 6:30-8pm at Jimbo’s Naturally Carlsbad; August 18 – Healthy Cooking Foundation Class: Cooking with Sugar Alternatives, 6-7:30pm at Bastyr Univ. Clinic. • 858-246-9730 • bastyrclinic. org/about/events


Bring your own beer or wine and get ready for fun, great food and to learn about seafood from top San Diego chefs. Events held in the Catalina Offshore Products warehouse benefit San Diego children and charities in need. Produced by Specialty Produce and Catalina Offshore Products. • Facebook.com/collaborationkitchen


Saturday, August 6 from 4 to 7:30pm, support coastal wildlife while enjoying small plates, beverages and desserts from dozens of San Diego’s favorite restaurants, breweries, wineries, farms and more. Animal encounters, live entertainment, silent auction, fun! For info and tickets go to thelivingcoast.org


Saturday, September 17 from 9am to 3pm. Annual event gives San Diegans an imtimate look at our robust agricultural region through visits to working farms. Learn from the farmers themselves as they give you a personal tour of their operations. A fun and educational for the entire family. • 760-7453023 • sdfarmbureau.org/FarmTour


Saturday, July 30 from 3:30 to 7pm, enjoy a seasonal, farm-to-fork dinner at Suzie’s Farm prepared by Chef Jeff Rossman of Terra American Bistro with your farmers Thaddeus Barsotti, Farm Fresh to You and Lucila Alejandro. Benefits the Jacobs and Cushman San Diego Food Bank. Discount for Suzie Farm CSA members. Tickets: sandiegosummerfeast.eventbrite.com


July 23, Aug 20 and Sept 10, Saturdays at the Ranch, one day spa and culinary advertures that “create a taste of the peace and tranquility in a beautiful, natural setting that everyone craves and needs.” Price includes 50 minute massage. Only about an hour from San Diego. • 877-440-7778 • rancholapuerta.com


Saturday, August 6, support the youth of 4H, FFA and Grange by buying their high quality, locally raised beef, pork, lamb, goat, turkey, chicken and rabbit at a real auction! For buyer info, visit the Auction tab at RamonaJuniorFair. com, or go here: http://ramonajuniorfair.com/ cms/buyers-101-information-3


Mira Mesa (Tue, 2:30-6 fall; 2:30-7 spring); State Street Farmers’ Market in Carlsbad Village (Wed, 3-6 fall; 3-7 spring); Kearny Mesa (Fri, 10:30-1:30), and Leucadia (Paul Ecke Central School) (Sun, 10-2). 858-2727054 • leucadia101.com


Find eveything you need here, including meat. Sponsored by the Escondido Arts Partnership. Tues 2:30-6pm year round on Grand Ave. between Juniper and Kalmia. • 760-480-4101 • escondidoarts.org


Delivers organic produce to your door from family farms in Capay and Imperial Valley, Calif. Weekly, biweekly, every third or fourth week deliveries. No seasonal commitment required–cancel or suspend deliveries at any time. contactus@farmfreshtoyou.com • info@kclfarm.com • 800-796-6009 • farmfreshtoyou.com


Sponsored by the Hillcrest Business Assoc., the largest farmers’ market in the county (with over 175 vendors) convenes Sundays, 9-2 at the DMV on Normal St. 3960 Normal Street • 619-299-3330 • hillcrestfarmersmarket.com


Sunday, 9-1 at La Jolla Elementary school on Girard. A great community success story! All proceeds benefit the school. Fresh produce, food court, local artisans and entertainment. 7335 Girard Ave. at Genter. • 858-454-1699 • lajollamarket.com


Friday, 3-6pm fall/winter, 3-7pm spring/ summer. Over 50 vendors in La Mesa Village, corner of Spring St. and University, west of the railroad tracks. • outbackfarm@ sbcglobal.net • 619-249-9395 • cityoflamesa.com


Sunday, 10-2 at Paul Ecke Central School, 185 Union St. off Vulcan in Leucadia. A big weekend farmers market with just about eveything. Knife sharpening often. • 858272-7054 • leucadia101.com



Stay for


Sun 10:30-3:30 at the Sikes Adobe Historic Farmstead. Fresh, locally grown fruits, veggies and herbs, eggs, meat, honey, and hot food. Accepts EBT, WIC , credit and debit cards. Located just off I-15 at Via Rancho Pkwy, Escondido • northsdfarmers.com


Sunday Market SundayFarmers Farmers Sunday Farmers Market Market Sunday Farmers Marke at the Valley Fort Thur, 9am-1pm, rain or shine at 300 No. Coast at Fort at the the Valley Valley Fort at the Valley Fort

Hwy. Certified fresh, locally grown fruits, 3757 South Mission Rd. • Fallbrook 3757 South Mission Road Fallbrook CA 92028CA 3757 South Mission Road Fallbrook CA 92028 veggies and flowers, hot food, baked goods Open Every Sunday 10am to 3pm and crafts. • outbackfarm@sbcglobal.net • 3757 SouthforMission Road Fallbrook CA 92028 more info email: vffarmfresh@gmail.com 619-249-9395 • mainstreetoceanside.com


Open every Sunday Open Every Sunday 10 am to10am 3pmto 3pm vendor info: Jeanniehathaway2011@gmail.com or 760-390-9726

for more info email: vffarmfresh@gmail.com Open Every Sunday 10am to 3pm Vendors contact Paula Little at Follow us on Facebook: Valley Fort Sunday Farmers Market

vendor info: Jeanniehathaway2011@gmail.com or 760-390-9726

skippaula@verizon.net or 951-695-0045 for more info email: vffarmfresh@gmail.com

Sun 9:30am–2pm. Lovely morning market Follow us on Facebook: Valley Fort Sunday Farmers Market or 760-390-972 Valley Fort Sunday Farmers Market in the Fairbanks Ranch area, modeled on thevendor info: Jeanniehathaway2011@gmail.com town square concept. Local farmers, artisanal Follow us on Facebook: Valley Fort Sunday Farmers Market food, fresh flowers, crafters, live music, kids booth and more! 16079 San Dieguito Rd. Rancho Santa Fe 92067 • 619-743-4263 • ranchosantafefarmersmarket.com


Not so ordinary produce, herbs, ornamentals and raw honey from certified farmer/producer in Rancho Penasquitos backyard farm. Find them at North SD (Sikes Adobe) (Sun), Escondido (Tue), UTC (Thur) and Rancho Bernardo (Fri) farmers’ markets. • rfbfamilyfarm.com


Weekly farmers’markets: Linda Vista, 6900 Linda Vista Rd. (Thur, 2-7, and 2-6 in winter); and City Heights, Wightman St. between Fairmount & 43rd (Sat, 9-1). Accepts EBT, WIC, credit and debit cards. • 760-580-0116 • sdfarmbureau.org


Robust farmers’ markets with great selections at Pacific Beach on Bayard btwn Grand & Garnet (Tue, 2-7); North Park, NOW at North Park Way & 30th, (Thu, 3-7:30); and Little Italy Mercato, Cedar St. (Sat, 8-2). All accept EBT. PB and NP also accept WIC. Farmers market vendor training, Vendor 101 and 102. • 619-233-3901 • sandiegomarkets.com


Freshly picked organic and sustainably sourced produce, much of it local. Great iPhone and Android app with easy-to-use database of over 1200 produce items. Wholesale and retail. Farmers’ Market Bag & Box options. 1929 Hancock Street #150, San Diego • 619-2953172 • specialtyproduce.com


Convenient midweek market, Wed 3-6pm fall/winter, 3-7pm spring/summer. Over 50 vendors in Carlsbad Village east of the railroad tracks. • ronlachance@gsws.com • 858-272-7054 • statestreetmarket.com July-August 2016

edible San Diego


{Local Marketplace}

Woof ’n Rose Winery RAMONA VALLEY

Specializing in red wines made only from estate grown and Ramona Valley grapes.


Sun from 10am to 3pm at the Valley Fort, 3757 S. Mission Road, Fallbrook. Great atmosphere, vendors and music. • skippaula@verizon.net • 951-695-0045 • thevalleyfort.com

RESTAURANTS, FOODIE DESTINATIONS & CATERING 608 NEW AMERICAN RESTAURANT Chef Willy Eick opened this much anticipated casual dining venue in early June in the former Swami’s Café. Small plates (e.g., Braised Short Ribs with Panang Curry, Bone Marrow & Shrimp Ceviche, Lobster Tail Tacos, a burger, salads and vegan dishes, $9-13) and desserts. 608 Mission Ave. Oceanside, CA 92054 • 760717-5899 • facebook.com/608mission/

National and international award-winning wine. Tasting veranda open Sat. & Sun. and by appointment. steve@woofnrose.com 760-788-4818 Woofnrose.com


Experience the art of fine dining in an elegant timbered room overlooking the 18th hole of the Torrey Pines Golf Course. Market driven and seasonal cuisine. For a really special experience, reserve a seat at the Artisan Table, Thursday nights. 11480 N. Torrey Pines Rd. • 858-453-4420 • lodgetorreypines.com


San Diego’s first juice & smoothie truck providing fresh, natural, organic & local beverages Visit us at our new store at 3733 Mission Blvd. Mon.-Fri. 7am-5pm • Sat.-Sun. 8am-5pm VEGAN, PALEO, VEGETARIAN GLUTEN- & DAIRY-FREE

240.246.5126 | www.JuiceWaveSD.com Juicewavesd #JuiceWavesd #Sippinonzenandjuice

Casual little sister of The Red Door restaurant. Craft cocktails, locally sourced small plates, boutique wines. Friendly faces, fab meeting space. Mission Hills newest neighborhood hangout. Planned opening is July 18.729 W Washington St, SD • 619-295-6000 • thereddoorsd.com


A certified purveyor of honest pints. Local & craft brews, Neapolitan style pizza with fresh mozzarella, local veggies and charcuterie housemade from sustainably produced meat. Open Tues -Sun, 11:30am to midnite. 3416 Adams Avenue, San Diego • 619-255-2491 • • blindladyalehouse.com


Great tasting hamburgers made from sustainably raised, grassfed beef and other pastured meats. Perfect for health and environmentally conscious diners, vegetarians and salad lovers. Eight locations in San Diego County: Carlsbad, Coronado, Del Mar, Gaslamp, Hillcrest, Kensington, La Jolla, Little Italy, and soon in Del Sur. • • burgerlounge.com


Dine from the bounty of their micro farm in the relaxed and beautiful setting of the Rancho Bernardo Winery. They plant, grow and cook every meal to order. Cooking classes, specialty events, culinary medicine! 13330 Paseo del Verano Norte, Rancho Bernardo, 92128 • 858-592-7785 • cafemerlot.com


Delicious food made from scratch, responsibly sourced. Pasture raised meats, organic sides, seasonal fruits and veges.


edible San Diego

July-August 2016

Take out menu, weekly MEAL SERVICE, limited seating. Order by phone, online or at the counter. 3620 30th St. 92104 • 619-869-0004 • calitable.com


La Jolla’s premier deli, bakery, restaurant & caterer for 25 years. Tasty and healthy menu items created with fresh and seasonal ingredients. Many of their fruits and vegetables grown in their own organic garden. 7837 Girard Ave., La Jolla 92037 • 858-454-3325 • girardgourmet.com


San Diego meal prep company. All of Fresko’s healthy, nutrient packed meals are crafted by chefs and prepared in a state of the art commercial kitchen using only the best local and organic ingredients, then delivered (free) to your door weekly. Mon-Sun, 9am-5pm • 858-752-1777 • freskosd.com


Perennial “best sushi” pick of many, Harney also has the most aggressive sustainability program of all Southern California restaurants. Original Old Town location: 3964 Harney Street, San Diego • 619-2953272; Oceanside: 301 Mission Avenue • 760-967-1820 • harneysushi.com


Since 2007, San Diego’s premier source for organic, individually customized Takeand-Make meal kits designed to fit to your dietary requirements and preferences. Everything is ready for you to cook using their step-by-step instructions. Pick up in Encinitas or have delivered. • 760-8150204 • healthycreationsmeals@gmail.com • healthycreationsmeals.com


Celebrate Baja cuisine and wines at farm-to-table wine dinners at La Cocina Que Canta, Rancho La Puerta’s culinary center in the heart of a six-acre organic garden. • events@lacocinaquecanta.net • lacocinaquecantaevents.com


The only 7-day-a-week marketplace showcasing the region’s agricultural bounty and international tastes. Explore exciting culinary creations, organic produce, meats, seafood, cheese, fine wine and craft beer from more than two dozen artisan vendors. Open 11am-7pm (minimum). 2820 Historic Decatur Rd. 92106 • libertypublicmarket.com


Casual waterfront dining in the historic fishing neighborhood of Point Loma, serving up locally caught seafood with a view of the bay and the San Diego sportfishing fleet. 1403 Scott Street, San Diego • 619-222-8787 • mitchsseafood.com


Specialty market and bread bakery with morning and lunch menus and locally

sourced veggies, spreads, meats, cheeses, wines and beer on tap. Open Mon-Fri, 7am3pm. 5277 Linda Vista Rd. (Morena area) 92111 • 619-260-8446 • pacifictimesd.com


From the BLAH and Tiger!Tiger! folks comes Panama 66 in the Sculpture Court at the San Diego Museum of Art in Balboa Park. Beer, wine and cocktails, salads, hot and cold sandwiches, house-made meats, vegetarian and vegan, brunch, kids menu, desserts and more. Open Mon – Sun, 11 to 3. panama66.com


Humanely raised Niman meat, Jidori chicken, sustainable seafood, and locally grown organic vegetables in simple, delicious dishes. Great wine and robust craft beer menus. Many vegetables and herbs grown in the patio seating area. 4095 30th Street, San Diego • 619-283-1720 • ritualtavern.com


San Diego Magazine 2016 Readers’Choice for Best Chef (Accursio Lota) & Readers’and Critics’Choice for Best Italian Restaurant! Locally sourced ingredients, fresh made pasta, organic produce, sustainably caught fish and hormone-free meat. Great wine list, craft cocktails and beers. Happy hour Tues-Sun, Tues wine specials, Live jazz Thurs. 2820 Roosevelt Rd., Liberty Station, Point Loma • 619-270-9670 • solarelounge.com


Dinner. Cocktails. Late night dining. Cuisine that uses year-round local produce. Menu changes frequently to offer San Diego’s seasonal bounty. Sunday brunch. Great cocktails. 21 and up. 3175 India Street, San Diego • 619-358-9766 • starlitesandiego.com


Simple, healthy, tasty food with a whimsical edge, artful and affordable. Open daily 7-3 for breakfast and lunch. Gluten free options, distinctive breads baked daily, beer, wine and HAN cocktails. • 3795 Mission Blvd. 858488-9060 • 2801 University 619-220-8992 • 1250 J St. Downtown 619-232-7662 • themissionsd.com


A casually elegant neighborhood hangout serving classic American comfort food. Organic produce from their own ½-acre garden or purchased locally. Sustainably sourced proteins. 741 W. Washington Street, San Diego • 619-295-6000 • thereddoorsd.com


Well paired food and drink emphasizing small, sometimes zany producers and with special attention to San Diego terroir. Lunch, brunch, happy hour and four-course Monday night dinner every third Monday of the month. 2219 30th St., South Park 92104 • 619-281-0718 • therosewinebar.com


Honest delicious food, pairing popular

trends in cuisine with healthy living. Brunch, lunch, dinner. Fashion Valley Mall, 7007 Friars Rd., Suite 394 • 619-810-2929 • foxrc.com/restaurants/true-food-kitchen


supplies, horse feed & tack, livestock, pet food and supplies, hardware, clothing and a lot more. 675 W. Grand Av. ,Escondido •760-746-7816. 2762 S. Mission Rd., Fallbrook • 760-728-1150 • hawthornecountrystore.com



Alternative care that considers every aspect of your health – mind, body and spirit. Naturopathic medicine, nutrition, physical medicine, women’s wellness, lifestyle counseling, and now—cooking classes! 4110 Sorrento Valley Blvd. • 858246-9730 • bastyrclinic.org/Heal

A handcrafted blend of nine different organic seeds, superfoods, mineral salts and spices, made in small batches. Avaialable at Le Mesa (Fri), Little Italy Mercato (Sat), Rancho Santa Fe and Hillcrest (Sun), and Leucadia (alt. Sun) farmers’ markets. • Contact tamara@be-runa.com • be-runa. com/product/seed-salt/

Topsoil (specially blended for growing in San Diego), compost and mulch, ready to use or custom blended to your specifications. OMRI listed organic. Biosolids NEVER used. 16111 Old Milky Way, San Diego 92027 • 760644-3404 (sales); 760-746-4769 (billing & dispatch)• spvsoils.com


Design, installation and maintenance of edible landscapes for home owners, restaurants and corporate settings. Complete orchard care, composting systems, and detailed organic garden care. They’ll create the garden of your dreams! karen@urbanplantations.com • (619) 563-5771 • urbanplantations.com



Educating the next generation of farmers, gardeners and homesteaders. Learn about sustainable farming, permaculture and how to live sustainably. Visit their blog; theartofagriculture.org • wildwillowfarm@ sandiegoroots.org • sandiegoroots.org/farm

Southern California’s only whole animal butchery (nothing goes to waste) featuring sustainably raised, hormone and anitbiotic free beef, lamb, pork and chicken. Open Tue-Sat, 11am-7pm; Sun,11am-5pm. 2855 El Cajon Blvd. Suite 1, San Diego 92104 • 619-564-8976 • theheartandtrotter.com



EscoGelato’s luscious, super creamy gelato is full of intense flavor and made fresh daily with the highest quality ingredients including fruit sourced from local farmers at the Escondido Farmers Market. 122 South Kalmia, Escondido, 92025 • 760745-6500 • escogelato.com Fresh juices, smoothies, shots and Acai bowls served from a food truck modified to run on propane and a store at 3733 Mission Blvd. San Diego 92109. Ingredients sourced from local farmers’ markets, and all waste is recycled. • 240-246-5126 • juicewavesd.com


Solar Rain believes you have a right to know what you’re drinking. Their water is harvested from the ocean off San Diego, vaporized and purified with passive solar energy locally, bottled


Installing owl nest boxes in and around your farm, vineyard, garden or homestead is an extremely effective form of pest control and helps restore balance to the environment. 346 Oak Street, Ramona • 760-445-2023 • barnowlboxes.com



A local, family owned full service grocery that provides the highest quality organic and natural foods at reasonable prices. Jimbo’s is committed to supporting organic growing practices and local farmers. Five locations: Horton Plaza, 4S Ranch, Escondido, Carlsbad and Carmel Valley. • jimbos.com

{Local Marketplace} A true European style market


Sustainably raised USDA inspected meats by the cut and CSA. Beef, pork and lamb sides & cuts, chicken, turkey, duck, rabbit, quali, pheasant & bison. Free range eggs. No hormones, steroids, incremental antibiotics, GMO/soy. Find at SD, Riverside and Orange County farmers’ markets, or at farm by appointment. Farm tours/ internships available. • da-le-ranch.com • dave@da-le-ranch.com

Del Rayo Village Center 16079 San Dieguito Rd. Rancho Santa Fe • 619-743-4263 Sundays, 9:30am –2:00pm ranchosantafefarmersmarket.com



Serving 73,000 children, families and seniors a week, FASD leads the fight against hunger in our region by distributing fresh, nutritious food to those in need. Help build a hunger-free, healthy community by making a gift. 97% of your donation directly funds hunger relief programs in San Diego County. • (858) 452-3663 • feedingamericasd.org

262 E. Grand Ave, Escondido



Your organic headquarters for plant food & nutrients, amendments & mulch, seed & sod, veggies & flowers, garden tools, water storage, irrigation & vineyard supplies, bird feeders & seed, pest & weed control and power tools. Locations in Encinitas, Fallbrook, Escondido and Valley Center. • grangettos.com













9AM - 2PM

Find a coupon on page 15. Organic and natural products for your edible garden, as well as trees, shrubs, flowers, succulents and everything you need for their care. Home canning supplies. 1019 San Marcos Blvd. off the 79 fwy near Via Vera Cruz • 760-744-3822 • supergarden.com



Tuesday 2:30 - 6

Family owned and operated. Non-GMO and organic poultry feed choices. Canning


Operated by the Escondido Arts Partnership

July-August 2016

edible San Diego




Dominick Fiume, Real Estate Broker, provides exceptional customer service with specialized knowledge of urban San Diego. CalBRE No. 01017892 330 A Street, Ste 4, San Diego 92101 909 W. • 619-543-9500


Freshly picked, organic and sustainably sourced produce, much of it local, from over a dozen farms each week. Great app for iPhone and Android with easy-to-use database of over 1200 produce items. Wholesale and retail. Farmers’ Market Bag & Box options. 1929 Hancock Street #150, San Diego • 619-2953172 • specialtyproduce.com

Leading advocate for the farm community. Promotes economic viability of agriculture balanced with good stewardship of natural resources. Membership open to all, helps your local farmers and has many benefits. SDCFB sponsors four farmers’ markets: College Avenue, Wed, 2-6; Linda Vista, Thur, 2-7; City Heights, Sat, 9-1; and San Marcos, Sun, 10-2. • 760-745-3023 • sdfarmsbureau.org


Six great issues a year! Get six issues a year of Edible San Diego delivered right to your door, each one filled with delicious recipes, thought provoking subjects and the stories of our farmers, ranchers, fishermen, chefs, winemakers and brewers.

1 year $33

Subscribe on line at ediblesandiego.com or send your information (name, street address, city, state and zip code) and check made payable to Edible San Diego to Edible San Diego, P.O. Box 83549 San Diego, CA 92138

edible San Diego


Suppliers of all natural diet and supplements for dogs and cats, including fresh raw foods and selected natural dry and canned foods. Human-grade and chemical free. Three locations: 2508 El Camino Real, Carlsbad, 760-720-7507; 1229 Camino Del Mar, Del Mar, 858-792-3707; and 3773 30th St., North Park, 619-738-8677 • dextersdeli.com


3 years $72


Supporting good food in San Diego and Riverside counties since 2001. Join the growing national movement to reclaim and preserve good food and food traditions. Slow Food Urban San Diego and Temecula Valley Slow Food. • slowfoodurbansandiego.org • temeculavalleyslowfood.org


2 years $54

July-August 2016


Inspires care and exploration of the living earth by connecting people with coastal animals, plants and habitats. The nonprofit zoo and aquarium is uniquely situated on the Sweetwater Marsh National Wildlife Refuge and offers visitors an ideal setting in which to explore and discover the natural world. • 619 409-5900 • thelivingcoast.org

Gated, private, 55+ age-exclusive resort-like retreat in Del Sur, adjacent to Santaluz and Rancho Santa Fe. Three new neighborhoods offer single-level homes with second story bedrooms. Visit the new Auberge Alcove, located in the Del Sur Ranch House, to meet with an Auberge Ambassador, view residence floor plans and more, Saturday through Wednesday from 12 to 4 pm. Go to AubergeDelSur.com to stay informed.



California’s only fully accredited naturopathic medical school offers Doctor of Naturopathic Medicine (ND) program and a masters program in nutrition and wellness. Now offering cooking classes! 4106 Sorrento Valley Blvd., San Diego, CA 92121 • 858-246-9700 • bastyr.edu/california.com


tasting room! Open Sat & Sun 11-5pm. 910 Gem Lane, Ramona, 92065 • 760-788-0059 • chuparosavineyards.com


Full bodied red wines served from a small, family-run outdoor tasting patio overlooking the vineyard. Estate grown syrah, petite sirah, cabernet sauvignon and blends showcase the quality of the RVAVA. 26502 Hwy 78, Ramona • 760-788-6800• edwardswinery.com


Taste wine,buy wine by the glass, bottle, case & barrel, become a virtual winemaker or master blender, host meetings and meetups, art shows, fundraisers and take classes. 12225 World Trade Dr., Suite P, San Diego 92128. Open Wed & Thur, 2-8pm; Fri, 2-9; Sat, 12-9; Sun, 12-6. Open Mon & Tue for private events only. Wine Clubs • 858-381-2675 • koizencellars.com


Award winning, handcrafted wines made in small lots from estate grapes and grapes from the Ramona AVA. Open noon to sunset on Sat and most Sun Please call to confirm. Picnics welcome. 23578 Hwy 78, Ramona, CA 92065 • 760-789-1622 • ramonaranch.netne@



From the grapes to the winemaker, Stehleon Vineyards is San Diego grown. Stehleon wines blend four generations of agricultural heritage with local product and talent. Tasting room and winery: 298 Enterprise St, Suite D, Escondido • 760-741-1246 • StehleonVineyards.com


Vesper Vineyards aims to expose wine drinkers to San Diego’s diverse microclimates. They support local grapes, wine and all local agriculture and cuisine. Tasting room & winery. 298 Enterprise St., Suite D, Escondido • 760-749-1300 • vespervineyards.com

Bustling wholesale and retail seafood market in a working warehouse with fresh sustainably harvested seafood, much of it from local waters. Fri and Sat cooking demos. M-F, 8-3; Sat, 8-2. 5202 Lovelock St., San Diego • 619297-9797 • catalinaop.com


Family owned and operated vineyard since 2003, making estate wines since 2012. Specializing in Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah and Viognier. Tasting room open Sat & Sun, 1-5. Schedule a tour: bill@ campocreekvineyards.com. 29556 Hwy 94, Campo, CA 91906 • 619-478-2820 • campocreekvineyards.com


100% estate grown zinfandel, sangiovese, cabernet franc and malbec. Picnic on the patio overlooking the vines or warm up by the fireplace this winter inside the new



A certified organic, urban winery focused on minimal-intervention winemaking. Craft wine with nothing added or taken away, 100% vineyard, capturing time and place in every bottle. Mon-Fri, 4-11pm; Sat & Sun, 11am-11pm. 1477 University Ave. San Diego 92103 • 877-484-6282 • vinavantiurbanwinery.com


Award winning red wines made from 100% Ramona Valley American Vitacultural Area (AVA) grapes, mostly estate grown. Try their flagship wine, Estate Cabernet Franc. Open 11–5 Sat. and Sun. and by appointment. Call ahead to allow them to give you good directions and to confirm availability. • 760788-4818 • woofnrose.com

FARMERS’ MARKETS MONDAY Escondido—Welk Resort # 8860 Lawrence Welk Dr. 3–7 pm, year round 760-651-3630

Seeds @ City Urban Farm

16th & C Sts., SD City College 10:30–12:30 am (Sept to June) cityfarm@sdccd.edu

TUESDAY Coronado

1st St. & B Ave., Ferry Landing 2:30–6 pm 760-741-3763

Escondido *

Grand Ave. btw Juniper & Kalmia 2:30–6 pm year round 760-480-4101

Mira Mesa *

10510 Reagan Rd. 2:30–7 pm (3–6 pm fall-winter ) 858-272-7054

Otay Ranch–Chula Vista

Santee *#

Carlton Hills Blvd. & Mast Blvd. 3–7 pm (winter 3–6 pm) 619-449-8427

State Street in Carlsbad Village

State St. & Carlsbad Village Dr. 3–7 pm (3–6 fall-winter) 858-272-7054

Temecula – Promenade *

40820 Winchester Rd. by Macy’s 9 am–1 pm 760-728-7343

THURSDAY Carmel Valley

5951 Village Center Loop Rd. 2:30–7 pm 858-945-5560

Chula Vista

Center St. off Third Ave. 3–7 pm (3–6 pm fall-winter) 619-422-1982

El Cajon #

2015 Birch Rd. and Eastlake Blvd. 4–8 pm (4–7 pm winter) 619-279-0032

Prescott Promenade on East Main Btw Magnolia & Claydelle Aves. 3–7 pm, year round 619-641-7510 x-277

Pacific Beach Tuesday *#

Linda Vista *#

Bayard & Garnet 2–7:30 pm 619-233-3901

UCSD Town Square

UCSD Campus, Town Square 10 am–2 pm (Sept to June) 858-534-4248

WEDNESDAY Encinitas Station

Corner of E St. & Vulcan 5–8 pm, May-Sept 4–7 pm, Oct-Apr 760-651-3630

Ocean Beach

4900 block of Newport Ave. 4–7 pm (summer 4–8 pm) 619-279-0032

People’s Produce Night Market 1655 Euclid Ave. 5-8 pm 619-262-2022

6900 Linda Vista Rd. 2–7 pm (2–6 winter hours) 760-580-0116

North Park *#

NEW LOCATION! North Park Way & 30th Street 3–7:30 pm year round 619-233-3901

Oceanside Morning *

Pier View Way & Coast Hwy. 101 9 am–1 pm 619-249-9395


Campanile Walkway btw Hepner Hall & Love Library 10 am–3 pm (Sept to June) www.clube3.org


7131 Regents Rd. 4–7 pm 619-795-3363

FRIDAY Borrego Springs

Christmas Circle Comm. Park 7 am–noon (October–May) 760-767-5555

Imperial Beach *#

Seacoast Dr. at Pier Plaza Oct-Mar, 12– 7 pm; AprSep, 12–7:30 pm • info@ imperialbeachfarmersmarket.org

Kearny Mesa

North Island Credit Union pkg lot 5898 Copley 10:30 am–1:30 pm 858-272-7054

La Mesa Village *

Corner of Spring St. & University 2–6 pm 619-249-9395

Rancho Bernardo Winery

13330 Paseo del Verano Norte 9 am–1 pm 760-500-1709

SATURDAY City Heights *!#

On Wightman St. btw Fairmount & 43rd St. 9 am–1 pm 760-580-0116

Del Mar

NEW LOCATION! 225 9th Street 1–4 pm 858-465-0013

Golden Hill #

B St. btw 27th & 28th Sts. 9:30 am–1:30 pm 619-795-3363

Lemon Grove *#

On hiatus Broadway & Lemon Grove Ave. 619-289-5535

Little Italy Mercato #

W. Cedar St. (Kettner to Front St.) 8 am–2 pm 619-233-3901

Pacific Beach

Valley Center NEW!

28246 Lilac Rd. 3 –7 pm vccountryfarmersmarket@gmail. com

4150 Mission Blvd. 8 am–noon 760-741-3763

Poway *

Old Poway Park 14134 Midland Rd. at Temple 8 am–1 pm 619-249-9395

Rancho Santa Fe Del Rayo Village

16079 San Dieguito Rd. 9:30 am–2 pm 619-743-4263

Ramona *

Solana Beach

Scripps Ranch

Valley Fort Sunday

1855 Main St. (K-Mart pkg lot) 9 am–1 pm 760-788-1924 10380 Spring Canyon Rd. & Scripps Poway Parkway 9 am–1 pm 858-586-7933

Temecula – Old Town * Sixth & Front St. Old Town 8 am–12:30 pm 760-728-7343

Vista *#

325 Melrose Dr. South of Hwy 78 8 am–1 pm 760-945-7425

SUNDAY Gaslamp San Diego 400 block of Third Ave. 9 am–1 pm 619-279-0032

Hillcrest *

3960 Normal & Lincoln Sts. 9 am–2 pm 619-237-1632

410 to 444 South Cedros Ave. 1–5 pm 858-755-0444 3757 South Mission Rd., Fallbrook 10 am–3 pm 951-695-0045 * Market vendors accept WIC (Women, Infants, Children Farmers’ Market checks) # Market vendors accept EBT (Electronic Benefit Transfer) ! Currently only City Heights accepts WIC Farmers’ Market Checks and the WIC Fruit and Vegetable Checks. All San Diego County markets listed except Rincon, SDSU, Seeds @ City, Valley Center and Valley Fort Sunday are certified by the County Agricultural Commissioner. Visit ediblesandiego.com and click on "Local Food” for more complete information and links to farmers’ market websites and social media pages.

La Jolla Open Aire Girard Ave. & Genter 9 am–2 pm 858-454-1699

Leucadia *

185 Union St. & Vulcan St. 10 am–2 pm 858-272-7054

Murrieta *

Village Walk Plaza I-15, exit west on Calif. Oaks/ Kalmia 9 am–1 pm 760-728-7343

North San Diego/ Sikes Adobe #

12655 Sunset Dr. Escondido 10:30 am–3:30 pm year round 858-735-5311

July-August 2016

edible San Diego


Profile for Edible San Diego

ESD 36 July August 2016  

Surf & Turf

ESD 36 July August 2016  

Surf & Turf