ESD 30 July-August 2015

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Good food. Good drink. Good read. • No. 30 • July-August 2015

Surf & Turf

Chef Rob Ruiz Da-Le Ranch Local fishermen go to market Promise of aquaculture


Before our lives were so convenient, they were authentic. We woke with the sun, worked with our hands and slept under the stars. That may not be where we live anymore, but it’s a nice place to visit. Get the guide at

July-August 2015







































Photo: Chris Rov Costa

{Two Cents}

Photo: David Pattison

Animal proteins seem to be the most controversial item on the food scene these days. Everything about meat, fish and fowl is fodder for dispute—cost, method of husbandry, where they come from, what they ate, their impact on the environment, their impact on your health and the ethics of eating them. While not without their own points of contention, plants seem less controversial. What do consumers want when it comes to meat? Our readers favor local, sustainably produced and humanely treated animal proteins. They want the healthiest food, free of antibiotics, hormones and chemicals from dicey feed. Organic if possible. They want the animal not to be in danger of going extinct. They do not want the method of its raising or harvesting to harm the planet. They want it to be as easy to obtain as possible and to be able to trust that they are getting what they are told they are getting. No greenwashing please. And of course they want it to be affordable. Is that so much to ask? It’s a lot.

Larger animals are costly to raise and produce here because of our climate, the cost of land, and the lack of USDA processing facilities at hand. Without abundant water and natural feed, many farmers and ranchers must import feed. If you are insisting on organic, the price tag on the end product increases. The lack of a convenient USDA processing plant is a big problem. It is expensive and carbon intensive to transport animals 460 miles to the closest facility. Did you know that pigs lose from 15-20% of their body mass just travelling to the processing plant? That is hard on the animals and farmers alike.

Riley Davenport and John Vawter

One option is to connect directly with the farmer, buy a whole animal (or share with friends) and get it butchered locally. Since you own the animal, no USDA certification is required. There is a movement afoot to connect locals to locally raised meats. Meat San Diego is working on educating and helping San Diegans to obtain, butcher and process local meat. They have high ethical standards for how animals are raised. Check them out at San Diego faces a shortage of water but not seawater, so fish should be a rich source of proteins for us. However, there are controversies there too. Many species are over-fished or endangered—among them Atlantic bluefin tuna, Atlantic halibut, orange roughy, bocaccio rockfish, some grouper and wild salmon. These are very popular with consumers, but by no means the majority of fish available to us. Take a trip to Tuna Harbor Dockside Market on a Saturday morning or to Catalina Offshore Products and you’ll discover many delicious, unendangered, locally available fish and seafood. My last word is to buy the best local food you can, especially animal proteins. Cheaper food is not a better deal than pricier local and sustainable options when you consider your own, our global community’s and the planet’s health.


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edible Communities 2011 James Beard Foundation Publication of the Year




Aimee Della Bitta Edible San Diego Eugenia Bone P.O. Box 83549 Chris Rov Costa San Diego, CA 92138 Caron Golden 619-222-8267 Erin Jackson Amanda Kelly Kay Ledger Lauren Mahan ADVERTISING June Owatari For information about Vincent Rossi rates and deadlines, Susan Russo contact Riley at Mika Shane Sara M. Shoffler 619-222-8267 Matt Steiger Sam Wells Lyudmila Zotova No part of this publication may be PUBLISHERS used without written Riley Davenport permission of the publisher. © 2015 John Vawter All rights reserved.


Every effort is made to Riley Davenport, avoid errors, misspellings Executive Editor and omissions. If an error Britta Turner, comes to your attention, please let us know Managing Editor and accept our sincere apologies. Thank you. COPY EDITORS Doug Adrianson John Vawter Michelle Honig

DESIGNER Riley Davenport

COVER PHOTO Chris Rov Costa

SATURDAY, AUGUST 8, 2015 4:00 to 7:30 PM Living Coast Discovery Center Chula Vista

The Living Coast Discovery Center invites you to celebrate the flavors that make the San Diego region so special. Join Chef Nicolas Bour and dozens of San Diego’s top restaurants, breweries, wineries, farms and other purveyors to support coastal wildlife, education and sustainability. Featured Partners:

Eclipse Chocolate Bar & Bistro • 1500 Ocean at Hotel Del Coronado • Común Kitchen • Table 926 Kitchen 4140 • Mistral at Loews Coronado Bay Resort • Sushi on a Roll • Tabletop Commons Nicolas Bour, Executive Chef, Loews Coronado Bay Resort Culinary Chair

The Fishery • Tidal at Paradise Point Resort • Local Habit • Ballast Point • The Lost Abbey And Many More...

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With special thanks to

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{Tidbits} Cleaner soil means cleaner eating. San Pasqual Valley Soils

In 2007, San Pasqual Valley Soils (SPVS) was formed as a means of delivering highquality soil products—topsoil, compost and mulch—to local growers. Today their OMRI (Organic Materials Review Institute) certified products are not only superior to, but also less expensive than

what’s available at stores or local landfills. “Private individuals are welcome to drive by with a pickup and we can load a yard of soil right onto the back of the truck,” adds sales and operations vice president Chuck Voelker. SPVS also offers delivery service for large-volume orders. San Pasqual Valley Soils is located at 16111 Old Milky Way, Escondido, 92027. For a list of local farmers who utilize SPVS products, call 760-746-4769 or go to

Photo: Lauren Mahan

Since the mid 1960s, Konyn Dairy founder Frank Konyn, Sr. had been supplying cow manure as fertilizer to friends and neighbors in the San Pasqual Valley region based on the honor system. “He would push it out to the end of the driveway along with a "donations' box,” recalls Frank Konyn, Jr., the current owner of the dairy.

Konyn Dairy cattle help build healthy organic soil.

~ Lauren Mahan

Valley Center Brewery serves up one-of-a-kind tastings in a rural community setting After four years perfecting their brewing process and product lineup, Valley Center Brewery owner Bob Marek and his brewmaster son, Alex, have moved their operation and are opening their doors to the public. “This is a manufacturing facility without the glass and glitz you see at other craft breweries,” says Alex. “What we’re going for is a homier feel—a gathering place for members of the community.” As Valley Center’s first and only brewery and beer tasting room, this dog-friendly facility has patio tables that encourage bring-your-own picnicking. Photo: Lauren Mahan

VCB’s current tasting lineup includes amber, pale and red ales, India pale ales

(IPAs), porters and stouts, as well as barrelaged and smoked brews. Although malts must be imported and fresh wet hops are only available locally in the fall, the Marek family makes every effort to support local growers by adding citrus, guava, apple and even Palomar roasted coffee accents to bring out distinct flavors. They also recycle the residual grain mash to local farmers as a protein-enhanced feed alternative. ~ Lauren Mahan 28960 Lilac Rd. #C Valley Center, CA 92082 760-913-0102

Hours: M–Th 3–8pm F 1–9pm Sa 11am–9pm Su 11am–8pm

Balanced and Bright Bone Broth: Now USDA-certified, soon to be widely available Bone broth is a centuries-old natural remedy that is making a comeback. Our ancestors used it in soups and stews to ward off everything from digestive and liver ailments to infection and joint pain. But not all bone broths are created equal. “Consumers need to pay close attention,” says Quinn Farrar Wilson of Balanced and Bright Bone Broth, which just this May received USDA certification. Wilson’s experience with bone broth started in 2011 when she had bone density issues that were causing her pain. “Very soon after I 4

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began drinking the broth, the bones began to heal and the pain was gone,” she says. “As an added plus, even some digestive problems cleared up.” Now, Balanced and Bright is moving to a USDAcertified commercial facility where they’ll be able to sell their product direct to consumers via delivery, shipping or through retail outlets. Stay tuned. For more information, go to ~ Lauren Mahan

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{Tidbits} Harvest2U brings farmers’ market quality to your doorstep “Once I mailed in the signup form with an initial check deposit, it wasn’t until two weeks later that I was given a twohour window within which to pick up my produce,” Webber recalls. “It was more than I could use and some of it was literally unrecognizable.”

In 2010 Harvest2U founder Don Webber had his first experience as a communitysupported agriculture (CSA) harvest subscription customer, and it was at best disappointing.

It was this firsthand experience that prompted Webber, along with cofounders Leah and Joanne Di Bernardo, to form Cultivating Good, the corporate parent of third-party CSA Harvest2U. (Temeculabased E.A.T Marketplace and E.A.T @ HOME delivery, both of whom offer artisan-prepared, locally sourced meals, are

also divisions of Cultivating Good.) “Our goal was to offer customers the same high-quality, seasonal produce they might find at their local farmers’ market, delivered to their home or office,” says Webber. Harvest2U delivery service is available throughout the North San Diego inland area*, with additional drop-off locations at selected retailers. For more information, go to ~ Lauren Mahan *Includes Temecula, Lake Elsinore, Murrietta, Fallbrook, Escondido, Vista and San Marcos.

Seafood Watch mobile app facilitates eco-friendly seafood choices

Seafood Watch is a comprehensive program developed by the Monterey Bay Aquarium that has, for over 15 years, empowered consumers in making choices that support healthy oceans and diverse marine ecosystems. Based on environmental impact assessments, the newly updated Seafood Watch app

indicates which items are Best Choices, Good Alternatives, or Best to Avoid. New features that make the Seafood Watch mobile app even more userfriendly include: • Quick referral to specific seafood recommendations • Search feature using common market or sushi names • Locator for nearby businesses offering ocean-friendly seafood

Photo: Tyson V. Rininger

You’re at the market or in a restaurant trying to determine if your seafood selection is ocean healthy. Now, thanks to the Seafood Watch mobile app, you can make easy and informed on-the-spot decisions.

Available for iOS and Android devices, the latest version of the mobile app can be downloaded at the Seafood Watch website at ~ Lauren Mahan

Culinary Art School of Tijuana: Perfecting the art of edible excellence Located in a stunning steel and wood building just across the border in the prestigious Zona Rio, the Culinary Art School of Tijuana is the first of its kind in northwestern Mexico. The three-year program with a specialization in culinary

art and hospitality was launched in 2003 and includes 70% hands-on training. Aspiring chefs are required to complete three 12-week internships at some of the world’s most highly acclaimed restaurants and hotels. Also available are 18-month programs for those planning to become sommeliers or viticulturalists. “Internships are a key component of a student’s professional development,” Photo: Cesara Rodriguez


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July-August 2015

says Director Javier González. “They frequently mark the beginning of a chef ’s international exposure.” Graduates of the school are currently practicing their craft in over 10 countries worldwide. The school hosts a variety of culinary contests and events throughout the year, as well as extension courses and workshops that are open to the public. For more information, contact: Culinary Art School of Tijuana 7126 Paseo del Rio, third floor Zona Rio, CP 22224 Tijuana, Mexico ~ Lauren Mahan

Local Fish from Local Fishermen Fresh Local Seafood on the docks in Point Loma 1403 Scott Street, San Diego • 619-222-8787 •

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{Local Talent}

Chef Rob Ruiz of The Land & Water Co. By Caron Golden Photos by Chris Rov Costa


t took Rob Ruiz some 17 years of honing his skills and developing a distinctive culinary point of view before he opened up his own restaurant, The Land & Water Company, in Carlsbad. But this chef, whose reputation centers around hyper-local, sustainably raised and sourced ingredients, started out as a kid making chocolate-chip banana pancakes for his family after church. His culinary inspiration? Public access TV shows like Great Chefs of the World. “I loved Great Chefs of the World,” he said. “You could hear the buzz of the oven hoods. Listening to them and watching the chefs prep the food totally relaxed me.” Ruiz, born and raised in Oceanside, was also hooked on fishing shows—no wonder, since for 25 years he spent every summer with his grandpa fishing around Alcatraz and later around Vancouver Island for salmon, rockfish and oysters. In fact, the oysters you enjoy at The Land & Water Company are from his old fishing grounds. But it took a move to the big island of Hawaii in 1995 for Ruiz to dive deep into what would become his calling. He went 8

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there to attend the University of Hawaii for a business degree (which he earned), but it was the culinary jobs he took to put himself through school that ultimately gave him his career. A short-order cook at Lulu’s Bar & Grill, Ruiz was discovered by Ian Whittemore of the Kona Inn. Whittemore’s mentoring in French cooking techniques, butchering and other skills enabled Ruiz to move on to the Five-Diamond Hualalai resort as a cook. But, Ruiz said, not quite a chef. “Morgan Star, whom I worked with, said ‘Any cook who’s a good cook can write and execute recipes—but that’s not a chef,’” said Ruiz. “He told me, ‘You’re going to do mother sauces and knife cuts. I’m going to put you on my line and if you don’t know it in your head on the spot you’re wasting my time.’ He taught me the fundamentals and set me up for success.” At the time, success meant working at the Hualalai for Alan Wong and then Etsuji Umezu, learning Hawaiian regional cuisine and developing the soul—and skills—of a sushi chef. It also gave him an appreciation for local ingredients.

After 10 years Ruiz returned to San Diego, working first at Sushi on the Rock, then Harney Sushi. Then came the opportunity to open his own place.

owned by longtime friend Ed Cannon, who is growing heirloom Japanese vegetables for Ruiz, as well as a variety of fruits, lettuces, other produce—and eggs.

“It was all about my chefs and me building ourselves a home to live and work in, each being able to do our own food, doing it the right way with no short cuts,” he emphasized.

“My goal is baseball-batting people over the head to know where their food comes from,” he said. “That includes educating people about seafood. When you do it responsibly, that’s the reward.”

His world has expanded. Like many San Diego chefs, Ruiz has been exposing himself to the bounty and talent of Baja. “It’s changed my cuisine. I love open-air cooking in Valle de Guadalupe. Now I want to put people in my new garden.”

Chef Rob Ruiz thinks this Aji, or Jack mackerel, is the best tasting fish in the sushi bar. It is abundant all over the world, is lower on the food chain (making it very sustainable), and is more nutrient rich than salmon or tuna. He says “it is like eating a cloud. Better than bluefin toro! Stop eating bluefin!"

That would be a Fallbrook property

Award-winning freelance writer Caron Golden is the author of the blog San Diego Foodstuff and Edible San Diego's blog Close to the Source. She appears frequently on radio, and has contributed to Saveur, Sunset, Culinate, Riviera, the San Diego U-T, the Los Angeles Times and many other publications.

Chef Ruiz's recipes are on pages 10 & 12

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edible San Diego


The Land & Water Company’s “Broke Da Mouth” Poke Salad This poke salad puts a twist on traditional Hawaiian food without interrupting its authenticity. The beauty of this dish is the texture— the velvety sesame oil, the crunch of the sea salt and onion and the lush burst of orange and acidity to cut through each bite. In Hawaii, when something is delicious, they say it’s so good it “broke the mouth.” Clean, fresh, sustainable fish, and the sesame-citrus crunch, have made this one of our most popular dishes. An important fact, which is long lost in the history of this often-mutilated dish, is that there is NO SOY SAUCE in a traditional Poke. If soy sauce (or any flavored liquid) is added to a poke, it is called a “wet” poke. ~ Chef Rob Ruiz

Yield: 2 servings 8 ounces fresh sashimi-grade fish (ahi, albacore, salmon, yellowtail; at LWC we use line-caught Hawaiian Tombo Albacore to retain authenticity) 1 whole orange ¼ Maui sweet onion, finely minced 1 spring onion, thinly sliced into extra fine “chives” 1 teaspoon Alaea Red Clay Hawaiian volcanic salt (or any high-quality sea salt) 3 teaspoons sesame oil ½ avocado 1. Prep the orange by slicing off the top and bottom. Halve the orange crosswise. 10

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Prop the orange up on its side like a car tire, with the flesh facing you. Insert your knife into the orange, just on the inside of the skin where the pulp meets the pith. Then use your hand to gently roll the orange along the cutting board, while the knife stays in the same place, removing all the pulp from the inside, and leaving you with a nice ring of orange to use as a “cup” for your poke salad. Repeat with the other half. Cut the orange pulp into chunks and set aside. 2. Cut your fish of choice into bitesized cubes and reserve in a chilled mixing bowl. Slice the avocado in half lengthwise. You can chop it and toss into the poke, but we slice the quarters into fans, and spread them out like a hand of playing cards to create an edible garnish.

3. C ombine the cubed fish, minced sweet onion, sliced spring onion and orange chunks in the chilled mixing bowl. Drizzle the sesame oil over the top to taste. Add a dash of salt to taste. 4. Gently toss all the ingredients together by hand, careful to not over mix or smash the ingredients. You want each component to stand out on its own in the dish before mixing into a medley in the mouth. 5. Set your orange rings down on your favorite plates, then set an avocado fan inside each one, upright and carefully spoon the poke mix into the center of the hollowed orange. This will help to stand the avocado fan straight up, and makes the orange rings overflow with the poke. Serve and enjoy.

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NEW COOKBOOK FEATURES LOCALLY GROWN ORGANIC PRODUCE! By Helene Beck, Owner of Beck Grove, Certified Organic Grower in Fallbrook

Jewels From My Grove persimmons, kumquats & blood oranges — reflections & recipes

Jewels From My Grove persimmons, kumquats & blood oranges REFLECTIONS & RECIPES

Jewels From My Grove by Helene Beck is the culmination of more than 30 years she and her husband, Robert, lovingly spent restoring an ailing tract of farmland in Fallbrook, California. Their vision and passion bore fruit — a wonderfully healthy sustainable organic citrus grove — and this cookbook is Helene’s love letter to her three favorite orangehued jewels — persimmons, kumquats, and blood oranges. In addition to beautiful grove and food photography, you’ll find recipes for some of Helene’s most cherished citrus-centric dishes that are both easy and challenging, savory and sweet, all wrapped in a story that is compelling and heart-warming.

Helene Beck

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French Twist Obamas Obama is not just the President’s last name, it is also the name of a very famous city in Japan, just south of Kyoto, in the Fukui prefecture. The waters near Obama, on the southwestern side of Japan, are where the Kumamoto oyster, one of the most prized oyster species, can be found. For centuries, the people of Obama have consumed oysters, and this recipe puts a French twist (AKA butter) on this traditional preparation. It’s geared for summer; in fact, it’s excellent for the BBQ. ~ Chef Rob Ruiz

Yield: 2 servings 1 dozen oysters (seek out your favorite, or grab some from your local fishmonger; just ask for the most recent harvest.) 2 tablespoons (heaping) unsalted butter 2 three-finger pinches of Bonito Flakes (katsuoboshi in Japanese) ¼ cup soy sauce (low sodium or gluten free, your choice) Optional: Simmer 1 part soy sauce, 1 part sake, 1 part mirin and 1 part dashi for 5 minutes. Throw in a pinch of bonito flakes, let cool and strain. This will make an umami-filled soy sauce on steroids called nikiri. Of course, a few drops of regular soy is how the Japanese eat it traditionally.


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1. Melt the butter in a small sauté pan over medium-low heat. The butter will melt and begin to bubble as the moisture evaporates out of it. Just listen to it. You’ll hear it simmering tightly, and then it will go quiet. Once it goes quiet, watch it. You can see that now you are toasting the milk solids. Once you see a little whisper of golden brown start to appear, kill the heat. Let it rest in the pan until it’s as nutty as you like. Then pour it into a different container until you’re ready to serve it on top of the oysters. 2. Throw your unshucked oysters on the grill and let them get hot! They will began to steam themselves in their own oyster liquor and pop open when they are ready to eat. If they don’t pop open don’t eat them.

3. Take oysters off the grill, carefully, and open them all the way. Remove the top shell and cut them free inside the bottom shell, by releasing the abductor muscle. Try to save all the natural oyster liquor you can—it’s the best part. 4. Lay the oysters out on a favorite plate or a piece of wood. Focus more on being a heathen than an aristocrat with the presentation. Drizzle the browned butter over the top of the oysters, sprinkle with a few drops of soy and garnish with the bonito flakes. The goal here is to slurp up the oyster with the umami-filled bonito flakes and soy and that rich, nutty brown butter to complement your wood-fired BBQ oysters. Simple, traditional, with a French twist and a whole new way to enjoy this sensual, sustainable seafood.

July-August 2015

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On the road with Edible San Diego to


An Edible Tour to Piedmont, Italy • September 18 - 25, 2015 Join Edible San Diego on a week-long journey exploring the regional foods, wines and craft beers of Piedmont in northwest Italy. Reserve now! Just 4 more places available. or call

805-886-1551 to learn more

The San Diego Chapter of the California Rare Fruit Growers Presents

The Festival of Fruit 2015 Friday, August 7—Sunday, August 9 at The Jacobs Center, 404 Euclid Ave., San Diego Field trips and tours on Friday and Sunday • Reception and book signing by fruit explorer Joe Simcox on Friday evening • Presentations, plant sales and vendor marketplace coordinated by UCCE Master Gardener Program of San Diego County on Saturday.

For more information visit 14

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{Liquid Assets}

Beer Cocktails

Photo: Lyudmila Zotova

One good local tipple deserves another


any San Diegans revel in the attention to detail and craftsmanship of our local breweries. That same love of artisanal work has transferred to San Diego’s recent craft cocktail renaissance, with new establishments popping up in each neighborhood. But what happens when you combine the two crafts? Simply, a beer cocktail is a drink created with liquor, beer and other ingredients like fruit or bitters. Because of the diverse array of beers, local farmers’ market produce and craft liquor, a beer cocktail can take on countless combinations of intensity, flavor profile and texture. According to Salt & Cleaver’s cocktail manager Damion Connor and Green Flash Brewing’s Dave Adams, collaboration—whether between liquor and beer or between breweries and bartenders— is a key component to elevate the beer cocktail above its singular elements. Connor takes inspiration for his cocktail menu largely from the farmers’ market, what beers are on tap and the brewer’s intentions, and takes special notes on a beer’s flavor profile before combining with complementary or contrasting ingredients. When it comes to flavor, it’s all about balance.

“You wouldn’t want a cocktail that’s all sugar,” Adams says. “You need acidity like lime or lemon juice to balance.” Connor agrees. For example, his Wu-Tang Wasp cocktail cuts the sweetness of Asian pear and other sweet elements with the bitterness of a pale ale. For Connor, the beer should be one of the first choices. “I tend to stay away from aggressive beers like a double IPA,” he says, and focuses on using lower ABV beers. Most important, “pick flavors you enjoy,” he says. Beginning cocktail makers should try beers that are already infused, like a tangerine wheat beer, and work from there. More important than flavor profile, Adams argues, is matching the intensities of the beer and liquor. A strong liquor should not be paired with a light beer and vice versa. “You might have a great flavor profile, but if you picked a too-intense liquor, that flavor’s not going to come out,” he says. In his opinion, it should be the number one concern for anybody who wants to try their hand at creating a beer cocktail. For beginners, he recommends starting with a light liquor and light beer so the intensity

By June Owatari

doesn’t overwhelm the other fresh ingredients. With a handle on that, move on to more complex and intense flavors. Most important, however, is to have fun and experiment. “Try shaking the beer,” Adams says. The creaminess and frothiness that results “rivals using egg white.” Texture is important to Connor as well. Whether shaken or not, carbonation from the beer adds depth to cocktails that may otherwise feel flat. “San Diego was missing one thing,” Connor says: beer cocktails. But no more. Cool and refreshing, smoky and dark, or any other combination, beer cocktails are the next step in San Diego’s race to become the beverage capital of the world.


June Owatari loves that she can find new craft beer and food in San Diego everyday, though her waistline regrets it. She particularly enjoys brewpubs with farm-to-table ethics. You can read June's thoughts on food, music and DIY on Twitter @Juniejuniejune or at her blog, Eatdrinkcraft. Above, Salt & Cleaver's cocktail manager Damion Connor July-August 2015

edible San Diego


{The Good Earth}

Animal Farm Old MacDonald had nothing on the couple at Da-Le Ranch By Susan Russo Photos by Chris Rov Costa


was lost. My GPS app had failed me four miles back when I hit the unmarked dirt road on the way to Da-Le Ranch in Lake Elsinore, one of San Diego’s more successful small family farms. I knew I had arrived when I opened my dusty door and was greeted by a cacophony of sounds: chickens clucking, sheep bleating, cows bellowing. Co-owner Dave Heafner, a burly 68-yearold, lumbered out of his front door, firmly clasped my hand in his own callused mitt and thanked me for coming to visit. In well-worn jeans and T-shirt, a Marines ball cap and mud-caked work boots, it’s hard to


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picture him sitting at a desk in a suit and tie. But after serving in the Marines for 20 years, Heafner had a lucrative career in finance.

“Everything you see here,” Heafner says, referring to the various animal habitats on the land, “we built ourselves.”

Twelve years ago he lost everything, from his money—“I had $20 dollars in my wallet”—to his health—“I was deathly ill and thought I was going to die,” he says.

“We started out with 12 chickens, four rabbits and six pigs,” Pesic says. Today they have thousands of animals, from cows to geese, that live on eight different properties. Pesic is their primary caretaker. Heafner calls her “the animal whisperer.”

That’s when, according to Heafner, his wife, Leslie Pesic, saved him. She wanted to move to Lake Elsinore and raise animals. Heafner would move on one condition: Pesic, then a vegetarian, would have to taste a bite of every animal they raised. She reluctantly agreed. They bought their house and some dry, rocky surrounding land.

Although Pesic coos and coddles, snuggles and sweet-talks the animals, she’s not sentimental. She admits that while she names some of them, others she simply calls “breakfast, lunch or dinner,” and lets loose a good-natured cackle. She agrees

when Heafner says, “God put animals on this Earth to be eaten.” “But there’s nothing wrong with loving the food before you eat it … Cause a happy animal is a tasty animal.” Heafner in turn credits the animals with helping to save Pesic. When they bought the land, Pesic suffered from anemia and an immune deficiency and says that once she began eating meat, her health improved. “I was so sick, I’d be in bed for days,” she says. This from a woman who routinely works 16hour days in the blistering Lake Elsinore heat. It’s that kind of resiliency that has made Da-Le successful. When they first began farming 12 years ago, the main source of income was their worm farm. Soon, however, Pesic began intensively researching how to raise larger animals. As we walk the grounds, guinea fowl, ducks, geese and chickens roam freely. “It’s not good for ’em to stay put,” Heafner says. “And, they get to eat directly from the land,” adds Pesic. “Bugs like maggots and spiders are great for them.” At nighttime, they are returned to their “living community,” an enclosed area where they “live in harmony,” says Pesic. Otherwise, they could fall prey to predators such as coyotes. Many of the animals, including their flamboyant Bourbon Red heritage turkeys, are fed a proprietary grass-based feed. Others, such as the cows, subsist primarily on alfalfa. Heafner explains that their cows are “grassfed and grass-finished,” which means they’re never fed corn or other foods such as candy, to fatten them up before slaughter.

This strict adherence to a grass-fed diet comes at a price. Every five weeks Heafner pays $8,000 for a truckload of alfalfa. “It’s really expensive,” admits Pesic, “but we do it because it’s healthier for the cows and for our customers.” Pesic says that pigs and chickens, in contrast, cannot live on more than 20% grass. Therefore, she supplements their diet with peas, corn, millet and oats. Da-Le specializes in heritage animal breeds, that is, traditional breeds that were routinely raised prior to the rise of industrial agriculture. “We’re not a ranch that needs to feeds the masses, so we can run a truly sustainable farm,” Heafner says.

“But there’s nothing wrong with loving the food before you eat it … ‘cause a happy animal is a tasty animal.” Dave Heafner They use previously owned farm equipment. Feed is fortified with “salvaged foods,” foods that are still edible but too unattractive to sell to consumers. On days when Heafner sells his meat at area farmers’ markets, he brings home leftover vegetables and broken eggs that either get mixed into feed or get composted. “It cuts down on what goes into a landfill,” Pesic notes. In an effort to “waste nothing,” Pesic recently began making stock from animal bones to sell at farmers’ markets. Heafner says customers love it: “Most people just don’t have the time to make stock from

scratch. So we do it for them.” Not everything on the ranch has been a success. Pesic takes me to an area housing about 15 chickens. “This is a costly experiment,” she says, resignedly. These former factory-farm chickens had lived in cages their entire lives. “They were de-beaked, with clipped wings and no feathers,” Pesic says. “It was so sad. I wanted to save them.” Although the chickens are doing much better—their beaks have started growing back, and they sport richly colored feathers—Pesic says they don’t roost or fly and are prone to mites. “They’re just not as healthy as the birds born here,” she says. In contrast, Pesic’s decision to become a certified “master incubator,” which allows her to care for and hatch chicken eggs, has become a significant part of their business. They also sell duck, guinea fowl, quail, turkey, goose and pheasant eggs. Although Da-Le Ranch raises animals, nearly all the meat is slaughtered, processed and packaged at different USDA approved facilities from San Diego to Northern California, with most in the central part of the state. The vacuumsealed meat is returned to one of their local USDA approved cold storage facilities in one to four weeks, ready for them to take to farmers’ markets. Da-Le meats are sold at 17 farmers’ markets throughout Southern California and can be ordered ahead of time. They sell as much of the animal as possible ranging from pork chops, sirloin and chicken breast to beef tongue and lamb kidneys. A

Geese make their daily trek to catch the last rays of the sun on the ridge overlooking the cattle corral. July-August 2015

edible San Diego


wide selection of sausages, ground patties and bacon are available. If they don’t have what you’re looking for, just ask.

As for now, they are here in San Diego, waking at dawn and working hard seven days a week. “We haven’t taken a vacation in 19 years,” says Heafner.

“We listen to our customers. We grow what our customers want,” says Heafner.

“It’s true,” Pesic concurs. “I love the animals. I need to be here for them.”

As for Da-Le’s future, Heafner says, “We’re not tapped out on growth yet.” They are currently looking to hire a couple of people to help with their burgeoning farmers’ market business. They also admit (to my dismay) that they have considered leaving California and moving to a state that is friendlier to small farmers. “California has legislated some small farms right out of business,” Pesic says.

Lucky animals. Lucky us.

Mixed heritage breed pig.

For more information about Da-Le Ranch, farm tours and where to purchase their meats, visit Connect with them on Twitter at @DaLeRanch and on Facebook.


Susan Russo is a freelance food, travel and lifestyle writer and author of two cookbooks: The Encyclopedia of Sandwiches and Recipes Every Man Should Know. She writes a monthly Get Fresh! column for the San Diego Union Tribune and has contributed to many local and national publications including and Cooking Light. Connect with her on Twitter at @Susan_Russo or email her at


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Intimate Interactions Using CSA model to know your farmer

By Amanda Kelly


n San Diego, our neighborhood farmers’ markets are plentiful with organic produce and sustainably raised meats. What’s more, our markets span nearly every day of the week.

Photo: Chris Rov Costa

At the end of March I visited Phil Noble of Sage Mountain Farm and Beef to discuss his meat CSA and how the community can help small farmers like himself thrive by buying directly from them. Farmers’ markets provide an Adrian of Sage Mountain Farms shows off spicy pork Italian sausages in the current CSA package. essential space for earth-conscious meat consumers and small farmers to CSA may also include cerveza beef, which reception he and his wife have received over come together in supporting sustainable Noble receives through partnerships with the years from customers at the markets. agriculture. Without markets, or the model local breweries. This is a win-win situation Noble says the best ways help local farms of community-supported agriculture in terms of sustainability as thousands of are to purchase a CSA share, shop at your (CSA), many of our most cherished pounds of leftover brewer’s mash stay out local market or frequent businesses that small farms would go out of business. of landfills and supplement the animals’ source from farmers. Every dime you CSA programs support farmers in raising all-vegetable diet. spend locally goes a long way to keeping healthy livestock throughout the year and, “The CSA model keeps our farms small small farms in business. in turn, shareholders receive a prearranged and running throughout the year, ” Noble quantity of meat per month. “It’s priceless. It does something to you,” says. “If we cannot get support from our Noble says of his experience at the farmers’ The grass-fed beef that Noble sells at communities, farmers either go out of markets. “It is incredible to interact with weekly markets in Hillcrest and Little Italy business or turn to less sustainable, even somebody that loves what you’re doing.” and through Sage Mountain Beef CSA is agribusiness, models to keep afloat.” raised at partner ranches in Santa Maria For more information about Sage Mountain began as a garden in Phil and or Woodlake. Historic drought across the Sage Mountain Beef CSA, visit his wife, Juany’s, backyard and has evolved state creates challenging conditions to into a full-fledged operation that now raise grass-fed beef in Southern California. includes growing certified organic produce His green-fed beef, which means the Amanda Kelly is a freelance writer based in San and raising sustainable beef and pork. Phil’s livestock are raised on a mixed diet of Diego. Her roots rest somewhere between the experience stems from what he learned about certified organic, seasonal produce like Pacific Northwest and the headwaters of the gardening as a child. beets, arugula or kale, is raised in southern Mississippi River. She strives to inspire a greater Riverside County. Noble allows his appreciation for Mother Earth through the art “It really goes back to my dad,” he says. “I of storytelling and living each day naturally and customers to select the type of meat and don’t know that I would have put in a big to its fullest. A portfolio of her published works is cuts that they receive each month. garden when I first moved out to the country


At any given time during the year, the 20

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July-August 2015

if I had not experienced that growing up.” He also attributes the success of his farm to the

available at

{Kitchen Know-How}

Scallop Sensations By Erin Jackson


callops are some of the most versatile shellfish on the planet. Served raw or seared, their mild, slightly sweet flavor makes them amenable to endless pairings, ranging from zingy citrus to creamy sauces and comforting starches. We turned to local chefs for some ingredient inspiration you can try at home to make your scallops sing.

Brown Butter and Citrus At Eddie V’s, Georges Bank sea scallops are sautéed in brown butter with almonds, then topped with supremed citrus segments and microgreens. It’s an exciting dish that’s straightforward enough to attempt in your own kitchen.

Leeks, Pesto and Caviar If you love the mild flavor of leeks, take a crack at replicating Chef Lance Repp’s Maine Diver sea scallops from Tom Ham’s Lighthouse, made with a creamy leek soubise—Béchamel sauce with onion purée—and a mound of shredded leeks for crunch. The finishing touches— stinging nettle pesto and paddlefish caviar— introduce bright and salty flavors.

Corn and Salami Chef David Warner’s scallop crudo at Bottega Americano is an advanced dish, thanks to roasted corn relish,

‘Nduja salami vinaigrette and liquid corn bread (made by blending softened shallots and garlic with corn bread and vegetable stock), but home cooks can take a shortcut by picking up the relish, corn bread and vinaigrette at Bottega’s marketplace. Before plating, dunk the scallops in a mixture of lemon, lime and orange juices.

Risotto and Mushrooms Seared scallops taste great with a satisfying starch, like the lemon-pepper mushroom risotto at 1500 Ocean. Chef de Cuisine Meredith Manee’s dish starts with stock made with Parmesan rinds and mushroom stems and is finished with lemon oil, lemon zest and lemon thyme. If you’ve been looking for a reason to sharpen your risotto skills, this is it.

Seared Scallops Rinse scallops under cool running water and thoroughly pat dry with paper towels. If the side muscle or “foot” is present, pinch it between your fingers to remove it. Heat approximately 2 tablespoons oil with a high smoke point (such as canola, safflower or avocado oil) in a stainless steel or cast-iron skillet to medium-high. Flick a droplet of water into the pan. If it evaporates, the pan is ready. Place the scallops a few inches apart and allow them to cook, undisturbed, for 2 minutes. Flip the scallops and cook for an additional 2 minutes, until browned on both sides and opaque. Serve immediately.


Scallop Sourcing Tips from Mitch Conniff, Owner, Mitch’s Seafood

Photo: Riley Davenport

Where to buy scallops: Catalina Offshore is a great source. They have a large selection and take pride in sourcing directly from reputable fishermen.

a detrimental effect on their flavor). Look for “day boat” or “diver” scallops—they’re harvested responsibly and will be fresh and high quality.

What to look for: Buy fresh, dry-packed scallops from Baja or the East Coast of the U.S. or Canada that are off-white or slightly pink. Bright white scallops are more likely to be over-processed or wet-packed in a phosphate solution (that has

What size is best? Small bay scallops are great for pasta, ceviche or tacos. Larger scallops, such as U8 or U5 (meaning there are under eight or five per pound) are tasty grilled or pan-seared (and it’s easier to not over-cook them).

July-August 2015

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{Kitchen Know-How}

The Sweet I Peppers of Summer By Eugenia Bone

f you’ve ever planted peppers then you know what overwhelming bounty is. It always amazes me how many peppers one scrawny little pepper plant can produce. And the variety! There’s a flavor for everyone, from hot to spicy to sweet. I love them all, but my heart belongs to the bell, that stir-fry perennial. Green bell peppers are unripe red or orange bell peppers, and they are great raw, and cooked with fish and shellfish. Red (or orange) sweet peppers are also good raw, and perfect for broiling, marinating and stewing. Look for wrinkle-free peppers with shiny, taut skin. One medium-sized bell pepper yields about ½ cup chopped pepper, and there are four or five medium peppers to a pound. They grow in 11 out of 13 hardiness zones, and from what I can tell, that means everywhere in the continental U.S. Bells are resistant to most pests, which may be why you see a gazillion of them in farmers’

How to Broil Peppers

Photos courtesy of Clarkson Potter Publishers 22

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July-August 2015

Some recipes call for the peppers to be charred and the skin removed. You can do this under the broiler or on top of a gas burner, directly on the heat. Under the broiler is more convenient and faster, but the peppers easily overcook. Cooking on the burner, where you place a couple of peppers on each burner and turn them with tongs until they are blistered all over, is more work, but produces a more controlled result. (If you use this technique the kitchen will fill with a tasty burning smell. I always get calls from my neighbors when I use this method.) I use the broiler with the door open so I can watch them more closely. Heat the broiler to hot. Place the peppers on a baking sheet. Place under the broiler. Turn the peppers as they blister. It takes about 5 minutes for a tray of peppers to roast. Some people like to put roasted peppers in bags to loosen the skin for easy removal. I don’t do it when using the broiler to blister peppers, because doing so steam-cooks the peppers. As soon as you can handle the peppers, remove the skin. Usually, the skin will slip off in a few big peels. If some skin sticks, it’s OK. Remove the seedpods and stems and rinse out the seeds.

markets in the summer, usually at pretty great prices. Yeah, it’s hard to just buy one. That’s what got me started marinating and canning them. I put up a pint or two a week throughout the season, usually while I am hanging around the kitchen cooking dinner anyway. And I eat them like crazy in fresh dishes. I broil and peel them and make salads with boiled shrimp, or warm potatoes, or canned tuna. I’ll sauté a mass of sliced ripe bells with onions and sometimes garlic and from that make multiple dishes: pan-cooked veal chops with peppers, onions and white wine; puréed peppers and onions thinned with a bit of chicken stock and poured over penne, then garnished with Parmesan cheese and chopped parsley; a summer fish stew composed of skate, squid and mussels, peppers and onions, and seasoned with a dash of vinegar.

But I think my favorite summer pepper dish is sautéed peppers and onions with poached eggs on top. This was the dish that my father dreamt of when he was a frightened infantryman in Austria in 1944, the dish I dreamt of when I was living in a windowless room in the back of a bar in New Orleans in the early ’80s, the dish my daughter dreamt of as she trudged through the Canadian snow to get to class last year. No dish is more personal to me, and I think that’s because it is simple and true and embodies two very important things: summer and home.


Eugenia Bone is a cook and author whose stories and recipes have appeared in newspapers and magazines across the country including The New York Times Magazine, Saveur, Food & Wine, Gourmet, Fine Cooking, The Wine Enthusiast, Martha Stewart Living, and The Wall Street Journal. She is the author of five books, among them Italian Family Dining, and Well Preserved: Recipes and Techniques for Putting Up Small Batches of Seasonal Food (nominated for a James Beard Award); Mycophilia: Revelations from the Weird World of Mushrooms, and The Kitchen Ecosystem: Integrating Recipes to Create Delicious Meals. Visit Eugenia's blog, .

Romesco Sauce Marinated chopped peppers­—pictured opposite on page 22—are an incentive to make great food fast. Just the fact that I can spoon the peppers out of a jar and not even have to cut them up has led to spontaneous and delicious dishes. For example, I toss these peppers with boiled shrimp, garnished with parsley, or make a quick dip/spread by mashing the peppers with feta cheese or softened goat cheese and dill or cilantro, or brown sausages, chicken parts or lamb shoulder chops, add the peppers and finish cooking. I love to make pimiento cheese (in the food processor add ½ cup homemade mayo, ½ cup grated cheddar, ½ cup goat and/or cream cheese, ⅓ cup drained, marinated peppers) and always, romesco sauce (recipe below). Makes 3 pints

oregano and salt and bring to a boil over medium heat. Add the peppers and toss them in the marinade.

2 pounds sweet red peppers (8 to 10 peppers) 2 cups white wine vinegar (5% acidity) 1 cup fresh lemon juice (5 large lemons; save the zest—it freezes well) 1 cup olive oil 2 tablespoons minced garlic 2 tablespoons dried oregano 1½ teaspoons pickling salt Char and peel the peppers (description above). Allow the peppers to come down to room temperature. Halve the peppers and remove the seedpods and stems. Chop the peppers. In a medium saucepan, combine the vinegar, lemon juice, olive oil, garlic,

Have ready 3 clean pint jars (or a combination of half-pints and pints) and bands, and new lids that have been simmered in hot water to soften the rubberized flange. Spoon the peppers into the jars and cover with the marinade, making sure the garlic and oregano are distributed evenly throughout the jars. Leave ½ inch of headroom. Wipe the rims, place on the lids and screw on the bands fingertip tight. Process the jars in a water bath for 15 minutes at sea level. Process the jars for an additional 2 minutes for every 1,000 feet above sea level. Remove from the

water, let the jars rest for 24 hours and then check the seals. If the jars seem a little greasy, it is OK. Just wipe them down with a bit of vinegar. The peppers may float at first but don’t worry; they will settle down. July-August 2015

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Schooled on Fish Shift to sustainability helps local seafood industry thrive

an Diego was once the Tuna Capital of the World. Canneries lined the waterfront, waiting to process the catch. But in the late 1970s concerns over dolphin safety pushed the industry to Japan. The last San Diego cannery closed in 1982. Since then the San Diego fishing industry has floundered. Fishermen have struggled to make a living. Some migrated up the coast to more favorable seafood cities like San Francisco or Seattle. Others quit altogether. Our iconic seafood delicacy, the fish taco, was built around imported fish: Alaskan pollock.

Photos by Sam Wells

Meanwhile, a coalition of dedicated fishermen has worked to preserve the industry. The San Diego Fisherman’s Working Group was founded and is led by Peter Halmay. Just recently they’ve succeeded in establishing a direct market presence for San Diego fishermen: the Tuna Harbor Dockside Market.

Above: Chase Fukushima with Bluefin tuna at Tuna Harbor Dockside Market.

The market is breathing new life into our fishing industry. Fishermen are returning to San Diego to sell their catch at higher

By Matt Steiger

profits, which translates to less pressure on the fisheries. And San Diegans have gained access to some awesome fresh, local and sustainably harvested seafood. Tuna Harbor Dockside Market is the best thing to happen to San Diego fishing in decades, and it’s one of the most exciting things happening in our city right now.

The Past Peter Halmay moved to San Diego in 1975 to start a sea urchin fishery. Urchins feed on kelp and are somewhat predator resistant. The local population had exploded and the kelp harvesters were poisoning them with quicklime. Halmay brought a fresh idea: fish the urchins and let nature strike a new balance. Now San Diego produces 750,000 pounds of urchins each year (and close to 100,000 tons of kelp). A market-sized urchin is seven years old—they are not fast-growing creatures. But Halmay says they’re “fecund”; the population is stronger than ever. “We had huge recruitment five years ago. July-August 2015

edible San Diego


They’re everywhere down there.” The comanagement of urchins and kelp has created a booming ecosystem. It’s a success story for both San Diego and fishery management. Halmay hopes the market, and the niche fisheries it enables, will facilitate more success stories like the urchin. He hopes to attract new fishermen and new customers and change the way we eat fish. “We need to get away from one or two big fisheries and start eating some of the under-loved species. Try some squid, or sardines. A few dollars goes a long way and they’re delicious!”

The Present Though Halmay hung in through years of decreasing interest and increasing regulation, most of his generation of fishermen has quit. In the past few decades a younger generation has moved in to tend the lines. Giacomo D’amato sells black cod, thornyheads and sand dabs at the market. He is a fourth-generation fisherman, and captain of the fishing vessels Ocean Princess and Giusy. He learned to set deep water long lines as a child and has been fishing up and down California for 20 years. D’amato sees the market invigorating customers and fishermen alike. “I’ve noticed a lot of people needed a place like this,” he says. “They can interact with fishermen: see what they’re getting, get some recipes and

Pete Halmay and Giacomo D'Amato with thornyback rockfish and blackcod

“ People got into the farm-to-table movement for produce, then they moved to beef, and now it’s finally coming to the ocean,” says Becker. “They care about where their fish is coming from. They care that we care about the species. We’re a sustainable fishery: We throw back females; we throw back smalls; we’re careful with the fish we do keep." know where the fish comes from. Almost like they’re catching it themselves.”

us get as much as we can from the catch, minimizing damage to the resource.”

He is also excited about what the market means for his business and the fishery. “We are shifting away from fresh and moving more towards live.” Extra handling means D’amato can charge a little more. “That lets

Dan Major is a native San Diegan who captains the fishing vessel Plan B. Tory Becker works as crew. They’ve been fishing rock crab, box crab and octopus out of San Clemente Island for the past 17 years. The Plan B crew enjoys interacting with their customers. “People got into the farm-to-table movement for produce, then they moved to beef, and now it’s finally coming to the ocean,” says Becker. “They care about where their fish is coming from. They care that we care about the species. We’re a sustainable fishery: We throw back females; we throw back smalls; we’re careful with the fish we do keep. These crab like cold water, we refrigerate the water they’re in. If we’re on the boat a few days we feed them.” Norm Abell's hand with live rock crab. As fresh as it gets!


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“Our niche is the live market,” agrees Major. “Seeing it alive—you can’t compare that to frozen or precooked. I’m satisfied to know I’m providing a good product to customers. I don’t sell anything that I wouldn’t eat myself.” It’s exciting to walk the market and see the strange, and potentially delicious, creatures that live offshore. Talking to the fishermen I learned our local fish are some of the tastiest out there yet for some reason have traditionally been deemed commercially unviable (like most nonHass avocados). These are exactly the sorts of foods that we should be eating: local, seasonal and less commercialized.

The Future If humans intend to continue eating fish, we must maintain a responsible harvest. California has some of the strictest fishery management in the world, regulating seasons, method of take and quotas. By tightly regulating the catch, we can maintain healthy populations. By eating the less-well-known species like black cod, box crab and, for that matter, urchin, we can distribute the pressure across a broad

variety of species. And as customers buy more sustainably harvested fish, we reduce demand for less-responsible, imported products. The Dockside Market represents the convergence of fishermen, fishery science and consumers. It really is one of the most exciting things happening in San Diego. It stands to breed new fishermen, to help sustain our fisheries and to educate consumers on the delectable but unknown seafood that lives just off our coast. Going forward, direct interaction between fishermen and customers is going to be crucial for the future of our fisheries. To get a taste for yourself, visit the Dockside Market, held Saturdays at 8 am at the Tuna Harbor Pier near Seaport Village.


Matt Steiger is a physicist, fisherman, home brewer, urban farmer, forager, and wannabe chef. He is always on the lookout for the best produce, fresh fish, great brews, and the perfect cup of coffee. Follow him at, on twitter @foodlunatic, or contact him directly at steigey @gmail. Above: Dan Majors with live sheepshead Below: Fishing boats tied up at Tuna Harbor Marina

July-August 2015

edible San Diego


Photo: Chris Rov Costa

Kombucha on Tap

Living Tea cans the bottle and serves only on draft

By Kay Ledger

Kombucha is a trendy beverage vaguely associated with health, yoga and probiotics. The effervescent tonic is customarily parked next to the pampered artisanal juices found in fancier food markets. Now, Oceanside’s Living Tea Brewing Company says they’ve found a better way to serve it forth: Their kombucha is available only on tap.

then ferment. “It’s a cellulose beast in which the components bubble and grow,” says Weigel. Between 21 and 28 days, flavorings are added such as fruit juices, spices, even tree barks. Ultimately, the kombucha will tickle the nose and taste lightly sweet with a faint tang.

“It tastes better out of a keg—fresher, more vibrant.”

Weigel emphasizes kombucha brewed traditionally is a ‘raw’ beverage that promotes mental, physical and spiritual health. “It’s packed full of living enzymes, cultures, acids, probiotics and antioxidants,” he says. But he claims that’s not quite the case for most kombucha purchased prebottled at a store. “Traditional bottling systems pasteurize bottled beverages while applying shrink wrap around cases. Pasteurized kombucha does not contain any living organisms,” he says.

Kombucha is fermented tea. It begins with a cellulose ‘mother’ called a SCOBY, or Symbiotic Colony of Bacteria and Yeast. Brewers add tea and sugar to the SCOBY,

Living Tea flavors includes ginger, piña colada and “roots.” The ginger is dry and aggressively fizzy. The piña colada tastes giddily of pineapple, while the “roots” is

Owner Josh Weigel brews small batches of kombucha with his Living Tea partners, older brother Bill Weigel and Neil Gehrke. They work out of a breezy establishment that is part organic market, part surf shack a few blocks from the beach. Weigel says kombucha on tap is superior to the stuff available in stores.


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not for wimps: components include birch bark and sarsaparilla. Weigel and his partners are committed to sustainability, and to keeping it local. “We do not bottle our product. Consumers of Living Tea either bring their own bottles to fill or purchase one of our labeled bottles to fill and re-fill forever!” He says, “The taste and benefit of a locally brewed beverage versus a large manufactured beverage is night and day.” Living Tea Kombucha is available at coffee houses and cafés such as 83 Degrees in Carlsbad, Fig Tree Café in Pacific Beach and mid-city’s Dark Horse Coffee Roaster. To find it near you, go to


Kay Ledger is a San Diego–based food writer with a fairly recent culinary degree. Her experience includes time served in a commercial jam kitchen and a local house of meat. She has written for Kiwi Magazine, Décor and Style and Edible San Diego.

Why do these savvy business owners advertise in this magazine? Trish Watlington

Mitch Conniff

Karen Contreras

The Red Door

Mitch’s Seafood

Urban Plantations

"We love advertising in Edible because it allows us to target an audience that truly appreciates what we do. Edible distribution is aimed at consumers who frequent farmers markets, farm-to-table restaurants, local growers, vintners and producers. Edible readers value the same quality, local, responsibly sourced food that we work so hard to put on the table as well as our dedication to less waste and devotion to heritage cooking techniques. Edible celebrates artisanal food and introduces us to the individuals who grow and create what we eat and drink, instead of focusing on décor, glitz or the hottest culinary personalities. Edible has substance and so do its readers."

"Edible San Diego provides a direct conduit to a group of customers we are trying to reach. As a restaurant that puts a lot of thought and effort into sourcing our food the right way it is important for us to reach a customer base that is looking for businesses like ours. By working with Edible San Diego we not only reach those people directly with every issue, we contribute to a community of like minded businesses in San Diego."

"We have been advertizing with Edible San Diego for seven years, and I can say with certainty, Edible San Diego brings us about 33% of our business. I'm constantly hearing, "I saw your ad in Edible San Diego"! With the high cost of advertizing these days, it makes sense for us to use Edible San Diego as our sole source for print advertising. John and Riley have been instrumental to the growth of our business and we can proudly call the Edible Community part of our family."

Dominick Fiume

k. Good

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29 read. • No.

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• May-Jun

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Urban Dwellings "Why I like advertising in Edible San Diego: To support the magazine in bringing important local food information to the public and to connect with people who care about good, clean and fair food."

Superlative quality, cost-effective rates, great community reach, personal service. Join our community of readers and advertising partners.

SD Weekly Markets “We advertise in Edible San Diego because it’s a brand considered highly credible by our target demographic. We don’t usually purchase print ads, but we do invest in the kind of marketing partnership that we have built with Edible San Diego.” July-August 2015

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Lions’ Share S an Diego Roots, Wild Willow Farm grow community along with food

By Matt Steiger Photos by Lyudmila Zotova

Mel Lions at Wild Willow Farm


s a reader of Edible San Diego, you’ve no doubt heard of Wild Willow Farm, its parent foundation San Diego Roots and their venerable founder Mel Lions. Lions is plugged into nearly every sustainable food endeavor I’m aware of and is widely recognized wherever he goes.

“Produce is ripe when it’s at the peak of nutrition and flavor; nature brings those three things together on purpose. With local food you are getting the tastiest and healthiest food possible. Commercial agriculture is more interested in cosmetic value and portability. Now you’re eating food with less nutrition, so what do you do? Eat more food!”

San Diego Roots Sustainable Food Project is a nonprofit Lions set out to empower himself, and others, through community, organization seeking to promote the growth and consumption nutritious food and the labor of his own hands. “Our food system of local food. Their programs include the has been stolen from us, and it’s killing us.” He farm school at Wild Willow Farm, a six“We grow farmers; not just food.” believes that by growing our own food we can acre property near Imperial Beach, and the take that power back. community outreach organization San Diego In 2006 he established San Diego Roots and Victory Gardens. Both seek to educate farmers, promote sustainable began fundraising. In 2009 Victory Gardens was established and gardening and farming, produce local food and build community. began teaching people how to farm in their own backyards. In 2010 Lions became interested in local food and sustainability back in Roots secured a space of its own, leasing six acres from Suzie’s Farm. 2001. He got roped into a loose coalition of farmers, gardeners and Now Wild Willow has its farm school in full swing—five weeks of chefs who came together to raise funds for a friend’s farm in Jamul. school, with two-hour lectures and seven-hour work labs each week. “At the time local food wasn’t even a thing,” he says. “I was a The first three weeks cover the fundamentals: soil and compost. graphic designer … I thought I could make them a flyer.” Students get continuing education through the weekly classes offered, which cover everything from composting to fermentation. Little did he suspect that first Save the Farm meeting would spawn a new life mission. Lions came to realize that local food was a solution On the farm itself, the emphasis is on education, not maximum to a growing sickness he perceived. food production. “Our farming is slowed to the pace of education,” Lions says. “We grow farmers; not just food.” 30

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Farming Organically Since 1976

Lions communes wtih a farm goat.

That leaves the farm looking more like a massive backyard garden than a traditional farm. But Lions insists that his students learn everything about farming, even its toil.

Customize your box with the local, organic produce and farm products you want.

“We spent our first year here just weeding. Imagine that, you go to work on a farm, ‘What are we doing today?— More weeding. When you’re sitting at your desk job, watching the clock and thinking, ‘I should become a farmer,’ You need to know, this stuff is hard work.”


off your first box



Besides local, sustainable food, Lions also seeks to foster community. “I’m at my best when I’m surrounded by like-minded people,” he says. “Together we can do so much more than any individual.” All Wild Willow classes are open to the public, Saturdays at 1pm, for $30. And the farm hosts a monthly potluck (a tradition carried over from another local farm, La Milpa) with killer sourdough cob-oven pizzas and good cheer. To learn more, visit; or if you feel like getting your hands dirty, head down to the farm any Saturday and dive in.


Wild Willow Farm and Education Center 2550 Sunset Ave., San Diego 92154 Matt Steiger is a physicist, fisherman, home brewer, urban farmer, forager, and wannabe chef. He is always on the lookout for the best produce, fresh fish, great brews, and the perfect cup of coffee. Follow him at, on twitter

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School’s Out, Hunger’s Not Fighting food insecurity year-round in San Diego By Vincent Rossi


ood insecurity is the lack of regular access to healthy and nutritious food.

Or, to hear it conveyed most personally: “My mommy doesn’t eat.” That’s the comment of a little girl at a recent food distribution by the San Diego Food Bank, according to a request to donors from Food Bank CEO Jim Floros. Everyone there knew what she meant, Floros wrote. “Her mommy doesn’t eat because there’s not enough food. She goes hungry so that her children don’t have to.” It’s estimated that over 476,000 people in San Diego County face food insecurity every day, thousands of them schoolchildren for whom hunger does not go on break when the school year ends. Since 2003, the San Diego Unified School District (SDUSD) has conducted a Summer Lunch Program providing free meals to families in need, weekdays, from June through August. Program events, called “Summer Fun Cafés,” are held in city parks, community centers and other locations, according to Joanne Tucker, marketing coordinator for food services at SDUSD. Tucker said the program is aimed at those families whose children qualify for free or reduced-price meals and events are held in areas in which a substantial percentage of families, in some areas up to half, meet those income qualifications. The size of the need is revealed by the following statistic from Torin Childress, Summer Lunch Program director: “We started in 2003 with 10 sites. Currently we have over 60 sites.” School’s Out, Hunger’s Not is the name of a campaign inaugurated in 2012 by Photo courtesy of Feeding America San Diego


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Feeding America San Diego (FASD), the other of the county’s two major food banks. Madeleine Hennessy, FASD communications coordinator, said the campaign was started to “raise awareness about the fact that 56% of school students in the county receiving free or reducedprice meals during the school year do not have access to food programs” during the summer vacation period. “That’s 92,000 children in San Diego,” she said. School’s Out, Hunger’s Not, which runs from April through July, is one of a number of programs FASD conducts, in collaboration with local and state government, the San Diego Food Bank and other public and private partners to feed children and adults in need.

Photo courtesy of Feeding America San Diego

It’s estimated that over 476,000 people in San Diego County face food insecurity every day, thousands of them schoolchildren for whom hunger does not go on break when the school year ends.

Fighting food insecurity means satisfying the most urgent needs, like serving hot meals or distributing canned or boxed foods. Joanne Tucker of SDUSD said, “We have two production kitchens devoted to summer meals, where the food is prepared and then delivered to the sites.” The San Diego Food Bank’s Jim Floros described regular deliveries of two-ton containers of USDA surplus rice and oatmeal “which we re-package at our warehouse into one-pound bags for individual distribution.”

“It’s a big goal and we have to attack it from multiple levels,” said Erin Hogeboom, FASD’s program manager for School’s Out, Hunger’s Not and other programs aimed at filling the gap between school-year food programs and the summer.

At the same time, more attention is being paid to helping people have regular access to healthier food. Both food banks are including more fresh produce in their distributions.

“We’ve started to realize just how important summer feeding is,” said Hogeboom. The risk of childhood obesity increases during the summer months, she said, due to less regular access to nutritious food. Research by Feeding America’s national office, California Food Policy Advocates and other organizations has documented the negative immediate and life-long effects of food insecurity on school-age children. Technology and the state of the economy have also contributed to making kids “much more sedentary,” Hogeboom said, citing entertainment like video games or many kids spending time in their grandparents’ houses while their parents are working.

“We provide fresh produce to supplement other food products,” said Floros, adding that recipients also receive “menu cards and recipes for using the most nutritious ingredients.” FASD also runs a Healthy Cooks program at which nutritional interns give cooking demonstrations at their distribution sites using fresh ingredients. Program manager Kelcie Ellis said the classes include lessons on how to read food labels, advice on nutritious foods and recipes. “The teachers try to tie in what they’re preparing with what’s being distributed that day,” Ellis said, “and let people taste the ingredients and the resulting dishes.”

Follow-up surveys yielded “some really exciting feedback,” Ellis said. One showed “the number of people regularly eating fruit went from 27% at the start to 41% at the conclusion. Another saw vegetable consumption increase from 17% to 33%.” San Diego’s two major food banks coordinate in food gathering and distribution with local, state and federal government agencies as well as private donors to fight food insecurity. They depend upon volunteers for support. To find out how you can donate food, money or time, contact: San Diego Food Bank 858-527-1419 Feeding America San Diego 858-452-3663

D Freelance writer Vincent Rossi has been a contributor to Edible San Diego since 2008. He is the author of three books on San Diego County history and writes a weekly blog, The San Diego History Seeker. His interests are history, politics and culture, with appreciation of the interrelationship between culture and food. With his wife, Peggy, a professional genealogist, Vincent co-owns StorySeekers, a research and publishing company for family history, memoir and historical books.

July-August 2015

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riving in Baja at a vista point off the toll road just north of Ensenada, you might notice a set of large rings in the ocean below. These are pens holding bluefin tuna that Mexican fishermen catch as juveniles and fatten for up to two years. They are eventually sold, mostly to Japan, as high-quality sashimi-grade fish. This type of fish farming—open net pen aquaculture, where fish are fattened like cows or pigs—is the most common aquaculture system in North America and Europe. And more of it has been proposed for our local waters.

What Are We Eating? “The United States imports over 90% of the seafood it consumes. And half of all we consume is farmed,” says Russ Vetter, senior scientist for fish genetics and aquaculture at NOAA Fisheries in La Jolla.

Clearly, we are not very connected to our seafood sources in the United States. Given that most of the seafood we San Diegans eat probably traveled farther to get here than most tourists—seafood travels an average of 5,000 miles from ocean to plate—local aquaculturists are interested in farming seafood in California waters. They cite reduced carbon footprint, increased number of local jobs, a reduced trade deficit and decreased pressure on wild fish populations as some of the benefits of farming fish locally. “Plus, we’d be growing it by our standards,” says Don Kent, president of HubbsSeaWorld Research Institute (HSWRI). “There is a need to increase supply to meet the demand for fish and it has to come from aquaculture.” Even if all the seafood that California fishermen catch were kept in state—

much of it is exported and some of that re-imported in a ready-to-eat form—it wouldn’t be enough to meet dietary recommendations of a half pound of seafood each week per person in our state (around 500,000 metric tons per year).

Filling the Gap between Supply and Demand To fill this gap in California and around the country, HSWRI has proposed an aquaculture operation about five football fields in size 4.5 miles offshore of San Diego. The Rose Canyon Sustainable Fisheries Aquaculture Project would be the largest of its kind and eventually harvest up to 5,000 metric tons of yellowtail (AKA hamachi), white sea bass and striped bass each year. Unlike tuna ranches, HSWRI would produce fish eggs from broodstock at one of their hatcheries and transfer young fish to cages at the Rose Canyon site

The Promise of Aquaculture By Sarah M. Shoffler

Baby Yellow Tail Jack 50 days old, hatched and growing at Hubbs-SeaWorld Research Institute. Photo: Chris Rov Costa

July-August 2015

edible San Diego


View of surface net pens at the Hubbs test aquafarm in Todos Santos, Baja California, Mexico containing striped bass, white seabass and yellowtail jack being grown for market. January 2012

for fattening. Fattened and delicious, they’d go to market at about two years old. “Our waters are in some ways ideal for fish farms,” says Vetter. “We have few hurricanes or major storms. The ocean floor becomes quite deep not far from shore. This, with the deep water and gentle currents, prevents fish waste from accumulating on the bottom or degrading water quality.” Plus, “hatchery-reared fish that are good candidates for farming are already locally available. And many of these species are suited to our temperate waters,” says Paula Sylvia, research fish biologist at NOAA Fisheries in La Jolla.

that all species have to be available all the time. Just because there is a market for them, doesn’t mean it must be saturated at all costs.” He contends that the market should operate on what can be removed without putting the environment at risk. Some ranchers believe that tuna farming takes pressure off wild populations. “Farming produces fattier bluefin, which command higher prices than the wild purse-seine catch does,” says Luis Rodriguez, a biologist at HSWRI and former head biologist for Baja Aqua Farms SA de CV. “This means we can fish less

intensively because of the value added.” “Aquaculture can only take pressure off wild populations if demand stays static,” says Volpe. “Yet, fish farming tends to increase demand and pressure on the wild population.” Some salmon fishermen now have to catch more fish because they have to sell it more cheaply to compete with farmed fish prices. Aquaculture can stress wild populations in other ways: Escapees can outcompete them or breed traits not suited to the wild life. Disease and parasites can spread easily to

“It’s incumbent on us to provide what we can to others who can’t produce seafood locally,” says Kent, who envisions providing seafood year round. And because the Rose Canyon operation and local fishermen will harvest different species, Kent suggests they will not compete.

“ There is a need to increase supply to meet the demand for fish and it has to come from aquaculture.”

But are we entitled to fresh fish, of any variety, year round?

Don Kent

John Volpe, principal investigator at the Seafood Ecology Research Group at the University of Victoria, argues that no, we are not. “We have to challenge the notion Photo: Chris Rov Costa


edible San Diego

July-August 2015

Photo: Mika Shane

Don Kent, president of Hubbs-SeaWorld Research Institute

wild populations. Some farms, like those built on mangrove forests, destroy habitats. Plus, as the scale of an operation increases, so can the overall impact.

Feeding the Food

Marco Carè/Marine Photobank.

“Feed is one of the biggest costs in aquaculture,” says Sylvia. Ranchers feed their bluefin Pacific sardines and other small fish. “These come from a wellmanaged fishery but are a finite resource,” she says. Until recently, they were locally abundant and cheap. For animals like yellowtail, raised from egg to market in captivity, feed can be supplemented with other products, like algae and soy. Kent is exploring ways to reduce environmental impacts of farming fish including those associated with feed. He says, “165,000 tons of fish are caught in California each year, most of which is processed in Southern California. We’re assessing how to use leftover scraps from that processing for diets to grow farmed fish with a minimal carbon footprint.” This could reduce operating costs and use something that would otherwise have gone to our landfills. The promise of aquaculture is to produce in large quantities that which is limited in nature. “But to say this is to feed North America’s growing population is disingenuous,” says Volpe. Most aquaculture uses about 1½ pounds of pellet feed to produce one pound of fish (though bluefin require 14–20 pounds of sardines to produce one pound of fish—profit margins are high enough to support this). “There’s a net loss of protein. If industry was interested in feeding the world, there are more efficient ways to do it.” But the problem isn’t shortage of food, many argue. The problem is access to food.

Inside a bluefin tuna cage. Tuna are transferred from a fishing net to holding cages at a tuna farm.

we import seafood or grow it ourselves? Biologists ask, how can we increase production and not affect the natural system? Really, how can we know if our approach to aquaculture is good unless we study it? Where does farmed seafood fit in? As an everyday fish for all Americans? As a shot to our local economy? But we should also ask: Are we entitled to fresh fish all year round, no matter where

we live? And for those of us who view food as a manifestation of our culture, how does aquaculture fit in? For resources and continuing conversation around these issues, visit Sarah M. Shoffler is a seafood enthusiast, foodie philosopher, board member of Slow Food Urban San Diego and a fishery biologist for NOAA Fisheries. The information and any views or opinions expressed in this article are those of the author and do not necessarily represent those of NOAA.

View of surface net pens in Puerto Escondido, Baja California, Mexico containing Bluefin tuna. 2006

Any Questions?

Photo: Mika Shane

The world now eats more farmed than wild-caught seafood, and we have questions. Businesses ask, how can I get fish to market so that I can maximize profit? A good aquafarmer asks, how can I produce fish without harming them, the environment or people? The entrepreneur asks, will

July-August 2015

edible San Diego


Give Bees a Chance M

ankind has lived with bees for centuries, enduring occasional stings in exchange for liquid gold. In return we have spread bees over most of the planet: a near-symbiotic relationship. In our haste to modernize, commercialize and industrialize, that partnership has been abused. Bees now seem to work less with humans and more for them. Equally alarming is our trend of forgetfulness. Prehistoric man lived at peace with bees. But today we spray wild hives and run screaming from swarms. Our knowledge has devolved and, in our ignorance, fear has crept in. Let’s shed some light on some common misconceptions.

Wild Hives Wild hives are everywhere in San Diego. The combination of good weather and diverse flora has left our bees fairly healthy. They live in any cavity about the size of a bucket. A particular favorite seems to be water-main boxes, right next to busy sidewalks. Contrary to popular opinion, wild hives are not that dangerous. People believe the bees will swarm out and kill anything nearby. But if you move slowly and stay out of the flight path, you can often stand within three feet of the entrance without them noticing you. A colony is obsessed: insatiably trying to fill their stores. They have little interest in your shenanigans. If you find a wild hive, the best action is to leave it alone. Enjoy the extra pollination 38

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in your garden and the knowledge that you are giving them sanctuary. If you must have them removed please call a beekeeper, but take the chance to watch. You’ll be surprised by their calm.

Africanized Honeybees For centuries, Europeans selectively bred bees to be tame and productive. Inbreeding left them easy to work with, but also susceptible to disease. In the 1950s, Brazil tried reinvigorating their stocks with African bees. Those bees were essentially wild: more defensive, less productive, but significantly hardier. In 1957 they escaped and by 1985 had spread over the entire Americas. The release of “Africanized” bees was widely regarded as a disaster, but Brazil had inadvertently achieved for everyone what they wished for themselves. The hybrid, Afro-European bees were hardy, disease resistant and voracious foragers. Contrary to 1980s scare-tactic newscasts, Africanized honeybees are not bloodthirsty killers. They are simply more defensive than their Euro-wuss brethren. And their introduction has improved the health of bees worldwide. Now, nearly any wild bee you find has some “African” genes, but you’re still here to read this.

Swarms When a colony feels strong, they reproduce: The hive splits like a cell. The departing bees consume three days worth of honey and move to a new home, usually stopping off in a nearby tree.

By Matt Steiger A swarm is a spectacular sight: thousands of (stinging) insects hanging in a ball or flying through the air. It is natural to fear this. However, they are not out to kill you; they are simply looking for a new home. Contrary to your primal instincts a swarm is actually the safest group of bees you will encounter. They are extremely docile— having gorged on honey, they are in little food-comas. They are homeless: With just days to find a new home, they are in a desperate race against time. They have no brood or honey, and no shelter. Far from defensive, they are defenseless. Bees are fundamentally gentle creatures. With all their being, they simply want to drink in the nectar of flowers. And they are insatiable; they really have little time to worry about us. Whether you see a bee, a hive or a swarm, ask yourself whether you could just leave it be. Or better yet, learn to keep them, and they will reward you with luscious golden honey. Matt Steiger is a physicist, fisherman, home brewer, urban farmer, forager, and wannabe chef. He is always on the lookout for the best produce, fresh fish, great brews, and the perfect cup of coffee. Follow him at, on twitter @foodlunatic, or contact him directly at

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School garden program takes research to the next level By Aimee Della Bitta


esearch shows that a school garden is a perfect tool to provide hands on learning experiences for any academic subject. Fourth graders learn about science through the life cycles of plants and first graders gain knowledge and firsthand experience of how nutritious foods can fuel their body by tasting fruits and vegetables that they’ve helped grow and harvest. Elementary schools in Encinitas, like Ocean Knoll and Mission Estancia, have seen this first hand. Now imagine taking the initiative of hands-on education through school gardens further and developing an on-site laboratory on 10 acres of land that students throughout a district can attend for experiential learning in the areas of design, research, engineering, math and science. That is the vision behind the Encinitas Union School District’s Farm Lab. Let’s step back a few years to see how this vision became a reality. The stars were perfectly aligned for the Encinitas Union

“ The Farm Lab is to provide students with educational experiences that demonstrate the interconnectedness of nutrition, agriculture and ecology." Mim Michelove

Left to right: Students tour Leichtag Farm during a Farm Lab field trip. Students were able to observe a farmer at work and, far right, see how plants are started.


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School District to launch the aggressive initiative to turn a 10-acre site on Quail Gardens Road in Encinitas into a working Farm Lab. The district already owned the plot of land—they were reserving it for a school site—but enrollment projections showed there wouldn’t be enough students in the district to justify another school. A $60,000-per-year tax bill was looming if the land did not go into development. The acreage was sandwiched between a cluster of agriculturally and historically rich community organizations such as Leichtag Foundation, Magdalena Ecke Family YMCA, San Diego Botanic Garden, San Dieguito Heritage Museum and Seacrest Village. However, the most important factor for turning this vision into a reality is not circumstantial. It stems from an expectation that starts with EUSD Superintendent Tim Baird and the school board and permeates throughout the district to faculty and parents, that educating children needs to be about addressing the whole child in an engaging and interactive way.

Providing students with an on-site laboratory is well-aligned with the latest standards set out by the California State Board of Education. In August 2010, the California State Board of Education adopted a new set of standards called the California Common Core State Standards. Unlike traditional standards, the Common Core State Standards take learning beyond the skills acquisition level, requiring students to also analyze, explain and apply new learning. “... If we look at the Common Core State Standards and examine the number of times certain words appear, we notice that research appears 132 times. This, coupled with our district’s wellness initiatives, makes Farm Lab the perfect setting to experience authentic application of all learning around science and nutrition…” explains Assistant Superintendent Dr. Leighangela Brady. Transforming the land into an outdoor educational space is a big project. That’s why the district has brought on Healthy Day Partners, a nonprofit started by two

Encinitas District parents, to help manage and drive the initiative. On site the lab is currently equipped with portable classrooms in the area designated an educational center. But, there is much more to come—the master plan includes a kitchen with solar ovens harnessing the sun’s energy, a maker’s lab and an area for students to study wildlife and record their observations. Mim Michelove is cofounder of Healthy Day Partners which developed and managed this project. Michelove has now been appointed director of Farm Lab by the Encinitas Union School District. She estimates that it will cost approximately $1 million in capital expenditures and $300,000 a year in continued annual expenses depending on the number of students who attend annually and how the lab is staffed. The Encinitas Union School District is focused on seeking corporate sponsorships, grant funds and donations to build out the ongoing educational program.

Farm Lab field trip to San Diego Botanical Garden.

“The Farm Lab is to provide students with educational experiences that demonstrate the interconnectedness of nutrition, agriculture and ecology. Through hands on lessons in the field and in food and science labs, students will develop a rich understanding of the connection between our actions and our health, economy and environment,” Michelove believes.

Early field trips welcomed students to become “expert consultants” and offer their insight and opinion on the relevance and appeal of the preliminary designs of the Farm Lab. Dr. Brady explains that students will have the opportunity to visit the San Diego Botanic Garden and the Leichtag Ranch, two locations that share mutual goals of environmental education. They will act as field researchers and then combine the knowledge they’ve gained with the existing plans for Farm Lab to present and pitch their ideas to the district representatives, community members and potential funders. Game elements such as “boosters”, “badges” and “time elements” will keep students engaged on tasks throughout the day. Final awards will be given based on judges' feedback for most innovative and best overall. It sounds like these field trips are rich in research, engagement and implementation; a true exercise in what Common Core State Standards is all about. With the development of Farm Lab, The Encinitas Union School District is proving not only the benefits of school gardens, but that outdoor learning centers can thrive and become an instrumental part of a district’s standard curriculum.


Aimee is a San Diego-based writer and freelance marketing consultant. She specializes in brand building, on-point promotional copy and creative messaging for editorial and corporate clients. She spends her free time trying out new recipes, hanging out with her two kiddos and husband and enjoying the beautiful seaside town she’s happy to call home.

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{Edible Reads}

Rethinking the healthy diet—again How the nutrition band wagon took us down the wrong road By Riley Davenport I was immediately intrigued by a book I received last Christmas, The Big Fat Surprise, featuring on its cover a juicy rib roast with a halo and the subtitle reading “Why butter, meat and cheese belong in a healthy diet.” I prefer fiction and suspected that this hefty book full of facts and scientific analysis would not hold my interest for long. That was the first surprise. Author Nina Teicholz, an investigative journalist with impressive credentials (she has written for Gourmet, The New Yorker, The Economist, The New York Times and The Washington Post) has explored the history of and personalities behind our nutrition policies and beliefs in a fascinating way. I had a hard time putting it down—one jaw-dropping revelation after another kept me turning pages. The basic take-away is that our accepted nutrition wisdom and advice from health care providers, government agencies and self-appointed healthy living advocates ran off the tracks starting in the 1950s. Ancel Keys developed the lipid hypothesis that implicated dietary fat in causing coronary heart disease. Many foods were vilified without scientific proof because they contained fat, saturated fat and cholesterol. The bandwagon revved up and the media, doctors, government agencies, drug companies and food corporations all jumped on. Consumers became the unwitting subjects of a huge diet experiment, replacing animal proteins and fats with processed grains, processed vegetable oils, fake foods and sugars. This experiment has had a terrible effect on our health. Obesity and diabetes are rampant and the occurrence of heart disease does not appear to have declined (though deaths from it have). Yet many studies show that saturated fats are quite healthy—even necessary. The breadth of the studies that Teicholz reports on is astounding.


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Interestingly enough, studies have long shown that there is no scientific proof that healthy fats (not trans fats or oxidizing vegetable fats) cause heart disease. Nutrition and health professionals simply chose to ignore these findings because they were at odds with predominant beliefs. The key word there is "beliefs." Slowly, nutrition guidelines are changing: Dietary cholesterol is no longer considered bad for you, saturated fat is fine within reason, butyric acid found in cheese reduces inflammation and stokes up your metabolism, and so on. And let’s not forget that too many carbohydrates create havoc and disease in our bodies. The Big Fat Surprise caused me to ponder how religiously and vehemently we are attached to our notions about what constitutes a healthy diet. Vegans, vegetarians and Paleo eaters, among others, all hotly defend and give passionate reasons for their dietary preferences. These preferences are not usually based on reliable science. I was impressed with the extensive nature of Teicholz’ research and came to believe that the preponderance of evidence supports eating a broad variety of real (not processed) foods— including meats, fats and dairy. I admit to being quite happy about that—no more worries about bacon. Regardless of which diet you prefer, challenge your nutritional assumptions and read this excellent book. You may not want to change what you eat, but you will certainly regard our food system with different eyes.

{Local Marketplace}

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Thank these advertisers for their local and sustainable ethic by supporting them with your business.


The San Diego Chapter will host the statewide meeting this year with the theme “The Year of Drought Tolerant Fruits.” Dynamic speakers, clinics, fruit tastings, educational displays, vendors’ marketplace, plant auction and sale and closing dinner. Fri, Aug 7-Sun, Aug 9 at the Jacobs Center for Neighborhood Innovation, 404 Euclid Ave, San Diego 92114. • festivalof

WoofRamona ’n RoseValley Winery


Specializing in red wines made only from estate grown and Ramona Valley grapes. National and international award winning wine. Tasting veranda open Sat. & Sun. and by appointment. 760-788-4818 •

Join Edible San Diego publishers Sept 18-25, 2015 exploring the regional foods, wines and craft beers of the Piedmont in northwest Italy. Limited to 12 people. Call 805-886-1551 for more information.

own reusable bags: no single-use plastic bags provided. • 760-651-3630 •


Find eveything you need here, including meat. Sponsored by the Escondido Arts Partnership. Tues 2:30-6pm year round on Grand Ave. between Juniper and Kalmia. • 760-480-4101 •


Delivers organic produce to your door from family farms in Capay and Imperial Valley, Calif. Weekly, biweekly, every third or fourth week deliveries. No seasonal commitment required–cancel or suspend deliveries at any time. • • 800-796-6009 •



Cultivates yards in San Diego homes to deliver organic, locally grown, pesticide-free produce through a CSA model. Garden & nutrition coaching available. Fruit Tree Care & Share services offered. • • 858-375-6121 •


Sponsored by the Hillcrest Business Assoc., the largest farmers’ market in the county (with over 175 vendors) convenes Sundays, 9-2 at the DMV on Normal St. 3960 Normal Street • 619 299-3330 •

SAN DIEGO County farm bureau san diego grown 365 dinner

A lavender farm in an idyllic setting with home and beauty products made onsite. Tours Wed through Sun, 10am to 3pm during the bloom in May and June. Soap making and other classes, English High Tea, and a beautiful venue for weddings. • info@ • 760-742-3844 •

Saturday, August 8 from 4 to 7:30pm, an evening of culinary delights, beer, wine & spirits, live music and close-up animal encounters at the beautiful Living Coast Discovery Center inside a national wildlife refuge. Proceeds support the Center. 1000 Gunpowder Point Dr., Chula Vista 91910 • 619-409 -5900 • Summer camps, events and activities for children. Blue Star Museums Free Admission for active military and their families Memorial Day through Labor Day. 320 North Broadway in Escondido. Kids admitted free. • 760-233-7755 •

September 20 at Stehly Farms Organics in Valley Center, a truly local farm to table dinner hosted by our county farmers themselves. For complete details and ticket information, go to: sdfarmbureau. org/dinner


Mira Mesa (Tue, 2:30-6 fall; 2:30-7 spring); State Street Farmers’ Market in Carlsbad Village (Wed, 3-6 fall; 3-7 spring); Kearny Mesa (Fri, 10:30-1:30), and Leucadia (Paul Ecke Central School) (Sun, 10-2). 858-272-7054 •





Sunday, 9-1 at La Jolla Elementary school on Girard. A great community success story! All proceeds benefit the school. Fresh produce, food court, local artisans and entertainment. 7335 Girard Ave. at Genter. • 858-454-1699 •


Friday, 3-6pm fall/winter, 3-7pm spring/summer. Over 50 vendors in La Mesa Village, corner of Spring St. and University, west of the railroad tracks. • • 619-249-9395 •

A great neighborhood market at the corner of E Street & Vulcan every Wed, 5-8 May-Sept, 4-7 Oct-April. 40+ vendors. Bring your

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Join our CSA!


…be human fully alive!


Seed Salt

Seeds. Superfoods. Salt.

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We plant organic seeds Install and maintain backyard gardens Harvest and deliver produce to your door

San Diego’s first juice & smoothie truck providing fresh, natural, organic & local beverages Visit us at our new store at 3733 Mission Blvd. Mon.-Fri. 7am-5pm • Sat.-Sun. 8am-5pm VEGAN, PALEO, VEGETARIAN GLUTEN- & DAIRY-FREE

240.246.5126 | 858-375-6121

Juicewavesd #JuiceWavesd #Sippinonzenandjuice


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edible San Diego


{Local Marketplace}


Sun 10:30-3:30 at the Sikes Adobe Historic Farmstead. Fresh, locally grown fruits, veggies and herbs, eggs, meat, honey, artisan foods, hot food and entertainment. Located just off I-15 at Via Rancho Pkwy, Escondido •


Thur 9am-1pm, rain or shine at 300 No. Coast Hwy. Certified fresh, locally grown fruits, veggies and flowers, hot food, baked goods and crafts. • • 619-249-9395 •



Experience the art of fine dining in an elegant timbered room overlooking the 18th hole of the Torrey Pines Golf Course. Market driven and seasonal cuisine. Reserve a seat at the Artisan Table, Thursday nights. 11480 N. Torrey Pines Rd. • 858-453-4420 •


A certified purveyor of honest pints. Local & craft brews, Neapolitan style pizza with fresh mozzarella, local veggies and charcuterie housemade from sustainably produced meat. Open Tues -Sun, 11:30am to midnite. 3416 Adams Avenue, San Diego • 619-255-2491 •

Sun 9:30am–2pm. Lovely morning market in the Fairbanks Ranch area, modeled on the town square concept. Local farmers, artisanal food, fresh flowers, crafters, live music, kids booth and more! 16079 San Dieguito Rd. Rancho Santa Fe 92067 • 619-7434263 • RanchoSantaFeFarmersMarket. Weekly farmers’ markets: College Area, 4747 College Ave. (Wed, 2-6); Linda Vista, 6900 Linda Vista Rd. (Thur, 2-7, and 2-6 in winter); City Heights, Wightman St. between Fairmount & 43rd (Sat, 9-1) and San Marcos, San Marcos Blvd. & Via Vera Cruz (Sun, 10-2). WIC and EBT Market Bucks accepted. • 760-580-0116 •


Stay for

Lunch !


Great selection at Pacific Beach on Bayard btwn Grand & Garnet (Tue, 2-7), North Park (Thu, 3-7), and Little Italy Mercato now on Cedar St. (Sat, 8-2). All accept EBT, PB and NP also accept WIC. Farmers market vendor training, Vendor 101 and 102. • 619-233-3901 •


Freshly picked organic and sustainably sourced produce, much of it local. Great iPhone and Android app with easy-to-use database of over 1200 produce items. Wholesale and retail. Farmers’ Market Bag & Box options. 1929 Hancock Street #150, San Diego • 619295-3172 •

Sunday Market SundayFarmers Farmers Market Sunday Farmers Market at the Valley Fort Fort at the Valley Fort Sunday Farmers Market

at the Valley Fort 3757 South Mission Road Fallbrook CA 92028

3757 South Mission Rd. • Fallbrook CA 3757 South Mission Road Fallbrook CA 92028

Open Everyevery Sunday 10am to 3pm Open Sunday Open Every Sunday 10am to 3pm 10 am to 3pm vendor info: or 760-390-9726

3757 SouthforMission Road Fallbrook CA 92028 STAR B BUFFALO RANCH & HOP FARM more info email: for more info email: Open Sunday 10am to 3pm for Every info email

A family owned and operated 1200-acre buffalo and hop farm near Ramona. Supports sustainable agricultural management practices,

Follow us on Facebook: Valley Fort Sunday Farmers Market


Sun from 10am to 3pm at the Valley Fort, 3757 S. Mission Road, Fallbrook. Great atmosphere, vendors and music. • vffarmfresh@ • 760-390-9726 •


Family owned and operated in the heart of Temecula Valley Wine Country, a beautiful setting for special occasions like weddings, receptions, birthdays, photo shoots and other private events. 39925 Calle Contento, Temecula 92591 • 951-695-1115 •

Come t o


Conveneint midweek market, Wed 3-6pm fall/winter, 3-7pm spring/summer. Over 50 vendors in Carlsbad Village east of the railroad tracks. • • 858-272-7054 •

vendorVendors info: or 760-390-9726 contact Amanda Atwood at respecting the animals, the land and all of its natural resources. for more info email: or 619-417-8334 Produces 100% grass-fed Bison meat and San Diego grown hops. Follow us on Facebook: Valley Fort Sunday Farmers Market vendor info: or 760-390-9726 Tours by appointment. • 760-789-8155 • Valley Fort Sunday Farmers Market

Follow us on Facebook: Valley Fort Sunday Farmers Market

San Diego Children’s Discovery Museum

Explore, Imagine, Experiment Through Hands-On Science, Art, and World Culture Activities




Great tasting hamburgers made from sustainably raised, grassfed beef and other pastured meats. Perfect for health and environmentally conscious diners, vegetarians and salad lovers. Eight locations in San Diego County: •


Dine from the bounty of their micro farm in the relaxed and beautiful setting of the Rancho Bernardo Winery. They plant, grow and cook every meal to order. Cooking classes, specialty events, culinary medicine! 13330 Paseo del Verano Norte, Rancho Bernardo, 92128 • 858-592-7785 •


Rustic American cuisine made with quality, local ingredients and commitment to community, environment and culinary creativity. Local craft beers on tap. 626 South Tremont St., Oceanside, 92054, • 760-453-2940; and coming soon to 230 South Santa Fe Ave, Vista, CA 92084 •


La Jolla’s premier deli, bakery, restaurant & caterer for 25 years. Tasty and healthy menu items created with fresh and seasonal

From our garden to your plate. 26 years in La Jolla European Bakery & Deli Breakfast, lunch & dinner Full-service catering

Summer Discovery Camp June 22-Aug 14, 2015 1 Week Sessions, For ages 5-8 Camp Hours 9am-Noon

*Members receive discount on Summer Camp booking.

320 North Broadway, Escondido, CA 92025 (760)-233-7755 • SDCDM.ORG


edible San Diego

July-August 2015 7837 Girard Avenue La Jolla, CA 92037 858-454-3325

{Local Marketplace}


Dinner. Cocktails. Late night dining. Cuisine that uses year-round local produce. Menu changes frequently to offer San Diego’s seasonal bounty. Sunday brunch. Great cocktails. 21 and up. 3175 India Street, San Diego • 619-358-9766 •


A casually elegant neighborhood hangout serving classic American comfort food. Organic produce from their own ½-acre garden or purchased locally. Sustainably sourced proteins. 741 W. Washington Street, San Diego • 619-295-6000 • thereddoorsd. com


An intimate supper club in San Diego’s historic Mission Hills. Organic produce is sourced from their own ½-acre garden. Live music Wed & Thurs, 7-9pm. 729 W. Washington Street, San Diego • 619-295-6001•

Perennial “best sushi” pick of many, Harney also has the most aggressive sustainability program of all Southern California restaurants. Original Old Town location: 3964 Harney Street, San Diego • 619-295-3272; Oceanside: 301 Mission Avenue • 760-9671820 •

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Award winning Italian cuisine by Chef Accursio Lota. Locally sourced ingredients, fresh made pasta, organic produce, wild caught fish and hormone-free meat. Great wine list, craft cocktails and beers. Happy hour Tues-Sun, Tues wine specials, Live jazz Thurs. 2820 Roosevelt Rd., Liberty Station, Point Loma • 619-2709670 •



ingredients. Francois and Diana grow many of their fruits and vegetables in their own organic garden in Julian. 7837 Girard Avenue, La Jolla, CA 92037 • 858-454-3325 •


Celebrate Baja cuisine and wines August 15 and November 21 at farm-to-table wine dinners at La Cocina Que Canta, Rancho La Puerta’s culinary center in the heart of a six-acre organic garden. • •


Fresh, organic Creole inspired food and craft beer, wine and NOW cocktails! Offerings change seasonally. All made from scratch. Vegetarian, vegan and gluten free options. Check out the new patio! 3827 5th Avenue, San Diego • 619-795-4770 •


Casual waterfront dining in the historic fishing neighborhood of Point Loma, serving up locally caught seafood with a view of the bay and the San Diego sportfishing fleet. 1403 Scott Street, San Diego • 619-222-8787 •

Kit built • Pine beam construction Super strong Delivered • DIY or we assemble RV’s available! Hundreds of models Sustainable harvest practices only Call Tom: (760) 445-2023



"One of San Diego’s top ten nurseries” – San Diego Home/Garden Magazine. A hidden sanctuary, part botanical garden, part retail space and a unique and fresh location for your next meeting or event. Open 8-5, every day. 1452 Santa Fe Dr. Encinitas 92024 • 760-753-2852 •

Specialty market and bread bakery with morning and lunch menus and locally sourced veggies, spreads, meats, cheeses, wines and beer on tap. Open Mon-Fri, 7am-3pm. 5277 Linda Vista Rd. (Morena area) 92111 • 619-260-8446 •



From the BLAH and Tiger!Tiger! folks comes Panama 66 in the Sculpture Court at the San Diego Museum of Art in Balboa Park. Beer, wine and cocktails, salads, hot and cold sandwiches, housemade meats, vegetarian and vegan, brunch, kids menu, desserts and more. Open Mon – Sun, 11 to 3.

Find a coupon on page 5. Organic and natural products for your edible garden, as well as trees, shrubs, flowers, succulents and everything you need for their care. Home canning supplies. 1019 San Marcos Blvd. off the 79 fwy near Via Vera Cruz • (760) 744-3822 •


Heirloom vegetable, herb and companion flower seeds. Grown sustainably and acclimated to our microclimates and soil conditions. At City Farmers Nursery, In Harmony Herbs, Mighty Hydroponics, Mission Hills Nursery, Progress - South Park, Ramona Hydroponics, San Diego Hydroponics, Summers Past Farms and Walter Andersen Nursery. •


Humanely raised Niman meat, Jidori chicken, sustainable seafood, and locally grown organic vegetables in simple, delicious dishes. Great wine and craft beer menu. Many vegetables and herbs grown in the patio seating area. 4095 30th Street, San Diego • 619-283-1720 •

262 E. Grand Ave, Escondido




C O R N E R O F G I R A R D AV E . & G E N T E R S T.

9AM-1PM L A J O L L A M A R K E T. C O M

Tuesday 2:30 - 6 Operated by the Escondido Arts Partnership

July-August 2015

edible San Diego


{Local Marketplace}

san pascual valley soils

from their Julian ranch. Whole hogs, primal cuts, and individual cuts, wholesale and retail. Kearney Mesa, Thur 10am-6pm, Sat,9am-2pm, 8280 Clairemont Mesa Blvd. #117; Julian Station, Fri, Sat, Sun 12-6pm, 4470 Julian Rd. • 619-378-4432 •


Sustainably raised USDA inspected meats by the cut and CSA. Beef, pork and lamb sides & cuts, chicken, turkey, duck, rabbit, quali, pheasant & bison. Free range eggs. No hormones, steroids, incremental antibiotics, GMO/soy. Find at SD, Riverside and Orange County farmers’ markets, or at farm by appointment. Farm tours/ internships available. • •

Topsoil (specially blended for growing in San Diego), compost and mulch, ready to use or custom blended to your specifications. 16111 Old Milky Way, San Diego 92027 • 6760-644-3404 (sales); 760-746-4769 (billing & dispatch)• Design, installation and maintenance of edible landscapes for home owners, restaurants and corporate settings. Complete orchard care, composting systems, and detailed organic garden care. They'll create the garden of your dreams! karen@ • (619) 563-5771 •


Five acres of displays showcasing water conservation through beautiful themed gardens. How-to displays about mulch, irrigation, compost and more. Free admission. Open daily, 9am-4pm, 12122 Cuyamaca College Dr. West, El Cajon, CA 92019 • (619) 660-0614 •


Educating the next generation of farmers, gardeners and homesteaders. Learn about sustainable farming, permaculture and how to live sustainably. Visit their blog; • •


A local, family owned full service grocery that provides the highest quality organic and natural foods at reasonable prices. Jimbo’s is committed to supporting organic growing practices and local farmers. Five locations: Horton Plaza, 4S Ranch, Escondido, Carlsbad and Carmel Valley. •


Family owned and operated natural food market with local, organic produce, raw milk, grass-fed meats, vitamins, supplements, specialty foods and more. Open Monday-Friday, 8-8, Saturday, 8-6 and Sunday, 10-6. 642 Main St. Ramona • 760-787-5987 •



Southern California’s only whole animal butchery (nothing goes to waste) featuring sustainably raised, hormone and anitbiotic free beef, lamb, pork and chicken. Open Tue-Sat, 11am-7pm; Sun,11am-5pm. 2855 El Cajon Blvd. Suite 1, San Diego 92104 • 619-564-8976 •


Inspiring children to learn about our world through exploration, imagination and experimentation. Workshops, Discovery Camp, birthday parties. 760-233-7755 •


Leading advocate for the farm community. Promotes economic viability of agriculture balanced with good stewardship of natural resources. Membership open to all, helps your local farmers and has many benefits. SDCFB sponsors four farmers’ markets: College Avenue, Wed, 2-6; Linda Vista, Thur, 2-7; City Heights, Sat, 9-1; and San Marcos, Sun, 10-2. • 760-745-3023 •



Supporting good food in San Diego and Riverside counties since 2001. Join the growing national movement to reclaim and preserve good food and food traditions. Slow Food Urban San Diego and Temecula Valley Slow Food. • slowfoodurbansandiego. org •



An eco-friendly and socially conscious salon that strives to make social and environmental change through the small things that they do. Hours: Mon - Sat from 10am - 6pm. 109 S Acacia Ave, Solana Beach • 858-792-5959 •



Suppliers of all natural diet and supplements for dogs and cats, including fresh raw foods and selected natural dry and canned foods. Human-grade and chemical free. Two locations, 2508 El Camino Real, Carlsbad, 760-720-7507; and 1229 Camino Del Mar, Del Mar, 858-792-3707 •

Farm direct, premium antibiotic, cage and hormone free heritage pork


A true European style market


san diego seed company Local Organic Heirloom Seeds




edible San Diego

July-August 2015

Del Rayo Village Center 16079 San Dieguito Rd. Rancho Santa Fe • 619-743-4263 Sundays, 9:30am –2:00pm


Indoor and outdoor kitchen design and construction by Michael Mahan since 1980. License #395296.. • 760-749-1505 •


Kits for tiny houses, RVs, guest houses, cabins and more. Super strong, pine beams. Delivered and we assemble or DIY. Sustainable practices. Call Tom: 760-445-2023


Dominick Fiume, Real Estate Broker, provides exceptional customer service with specialized knowledge of urban San Diego. CalBRE No. 01017892 909 W. University Ave. San Diego, 92103. • 619-543-9500


Freshly picked, organic and sustainably sourced produce, much of it local, from over a dozen farms each week. Great app for iPhone and Android with easy-to-use database of over 1200 produce items. Wholesale and retail. Farmers’ Market Bag & Box options. 1929 Hancock Street #150, San Diego • 619-295-3172 •


Bustling wholesale and retail seafood market in a working warehouse with fresh sustainably harvested seafood, much of it from local waters. Fri. and Sat cooking demos. M-F, 8-3; Sat, 8-2. 5202 Lovelock St., San Diego • 619-297-9797 •


Authentic Mediterranean dips and sauces made from the freshest ingredients high in nutritional value, sold at farmers markets and brick & mortar stores all over Southern California. 8765 Dead Stick Rd. San Diego 92154 • 619-426-6946 •


Installing owl nest boxes in and around your farm, vineyard, garden or homestead is an extremely effective form of pest control and helps restore balance to the environment. 346 Oak Street, Ramona • 760-445-2023 •


Handcrafted small batch blends of nine different organic seeds, superfoods, mineral salts and spices. Available at La Mesa (Fri), Little Italy Mercato (Sat), Rancho Santa Fe Del Rayo (Sun) and Hillcrest and Leucadia (alternating Sun) farmers’ markets. Contact: •


Buy, sell, trade new and recycled clothing. Recommended by One Green Planet for helping the planet! Two locations: 1079 Garnet Ave., Pacific Beach, CA 92109 • 858-273-6227 • 3862 5th Ave. Hillcrest, 92103 • 619-298-4411 •


Home winemaking and cheese-making supplies and instruction. Large selection of wine kits. Make wine at the shop! Cheese-making cultures and equipment available and cheese-making demonstrations. 7194 Clairemont Mesa Blvd., San Diego •858-384-6566 •


EscoGelato’s luscious, super creamy gelato is full of intense flavor and made fresh daily with the highest quality ingredients including fruit sourced from local farmers at the Escondido Farmers Market. 122 South Kalmia, Escondido, 92025 • 760-745-6500 •


Fresh juices, smoothies, shots and Acai bowls served from a food truck modified to run on propane and a NEW STORE at 3733 Mission Blvd. San Diego 92109. Ingredients sourced from local farmers’ markets, and all waste is recycled. • 240-246-5126 •


Not your average Kombucha! 100% raw and organic with 9-12 unique flavors on tap. For sale by the glass, growler or your own container! 302 Wisconsin St. Oceanside, 92054 • 760-696 -2376 •


Gourmet food products made in Vista, including infused avocado oils and vinegars, agave syrups, condiments, salad packs, spicy beans, culinary tools and more. Gift certificates availiable. PO Box 507, Vista, CA 92085 • 800-622-8880 •


400 fresh ground herbs and spices, 140 hand-blended seasonings, organic selections, extracts and gift sets. 937 South Coast Hwy 101, C-110 in the Lumberyardshopping center. encinitas@ • 760-230-4801 • california/encinitas-the-lumberyard.html



Well paired food and drink emphasizing small, sometimes zany producers and with special attention to San Diego terroir. Lunch, brunch, happy hour and 4 course Monday night dinner every third Monday of the month. 2219 30th St. South Park 92104 • 619-2810718 •


Vesper Vineyards aims to expose wine drinkers to San Diego's diverse microclimates. They support local grapes, wine and all local agriculture and cuisine. Tasting room & winery. 298 Enterprise St., Suite D, Escondido • 760-749-1300 •


Features award winning red wines made from 100% Ramona Valley American Vitacultural Area (AVA) grapes, mostly estate grown. Try their flagship wine, Estate Cabernet Franc. Open by appointment most days. Call ahead to allow them to give you good directions and to confirm availability. • 760-788-4818 •



Mountains were made to move you. Come remember what freedom feels like and forget that traffic and spreadsheets even exist. Go skiing. Go snowshoeing. Colorado isn’t just a place to visit, it’s a place where you feel alive. Plan your Colorado winter vacation now. Get the guide at



JazzWeek Magazine’s Large Market Station of the Year in 2011 and 2013, and 2014 National Jazz Station of the Year! Full-time jazz radio station licensed to the San Diego Community College District. Member supported, commercial free, community radio •



Family owned and operated vineyard since 2003, making estate wines since 2012. Specializing in Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah and Viognier. Tasting room open Sat & Sun, 1-5. Schedule a tour: 29556 Hwy 94, Campo, CA 91906 • 619-478-2820 •

This cookbook is author and La Vigne Organics grove owner Helene Beck's love letter to these underappreciated fruit. Citrus-centric recipes from easy to challenging, sweet to savory, with beautiful photos of the grove, the fruit and the dishes. La Vigne CCOF certified orchard. PO Box 2890, Fallbrook, 92088 • 760-723-9997 •


100% estate grown zinfandel, sangiovese, cabernet franc and malbec. Picnic on the patio overlooking the vines or warm up by the fireplace this winter inside the new tasting room! Open Sat & Sun 11-5pm. 910 Gem Lane, Ramona, 92065 • 760-788-0059 •


Full bodied red wines served from a small, family-run outdoor tasting patio overlooking the vineyard. Estate grown syrah, petite sirah, cabernet sauvignon and blends showcase the quality of the RVAVA. 26502 Hwy 78, Ramona • 760-788-6800•

It’s not cheating if you read more than one


Award winning, handcrafted wines made in small lots from estate grapes and grapes from the Ramona AVA. Open noon to sunset on Sat and most Sun Please call to confirm. Picnics welcome. 23578 Hwy 78, Ramona, CA 92065 • 760-789-1622 •


Promotes, protects and enhances the Ramona Valley American Vitacultural Area, 89,000 acres that are home to more than 80 vineyards and 20 bonded wineries.


From the grapes to the winemaker, Stehleon Vineyards is San Diego grown. Stehleon wines blend four generations of agricultural heritage with local product and talent. • 760-741-1246 •

buy more than one publication and save!

2 FOR $45 / 3 FOR $60

now in one convenient place July-August 2015

edible San Diego


Farmers’ Markets MONDAY Escondido—Welk Resort # 8860 Lawrence Welk Dr. 3 – 7 pm, year round 760-651-3630

Seeds @ City Urban Farm

16th & C Sts., San Diego City College 10:30 – 12:30 am (Sept to June)

TUESDAY Coronado

1st St. & B Ave., Ferry Landing 2:30 – 6 pm 760-741-3763

Escondido *

Grand Ave. btw Juniper & Kalmia 2:30 – 6 pm year round 760-480-4101

Mira Mesa *

10510 Reagan Rd. 2:30 – 7 pm (3 – 6 pm fallwinter ) 858-272-7054

Otay Ranch—Chula Vista

2015 Birch Rd. and Eastlake Blvd. 4 – 8 pm (4 – 7 pm winter) 619-279-0032

Pacific Beach Tuesday *# Bayard & Garnet 2 – 7 pm 619-233-3901

UCSD/La Jolla

UCSD Campus, Town Square 10 am –2 pm (Sept to June) 858-534-4248

WEDNESDAY College *#

4747 College Avenue 2 – 6 pm 760-580-0116

Encinitas Station

Corner of E St. & Vulcan 5 – 8 pm, May-Sept 4 – 7 pm, Oct-Apr 760-651-3630

Grossmont Center # NEW! 5500 Grossmont Center Dr. 3 – 7 pm 619-795-3363

Ocean Beach

4900 block of Newport Ave. 4 – 7 pm (summer 4–8 pm) 619-279-0032

Santee *#

Carlton Hills Blvd. & Mast Blvd. 3 – 7 pm (winter 3 – 6 pm) 619-449-8427


edible San Diego

State Street in Carlsbad Village

State St. & Carlsbad Village Dr. 3 – 7 pm (3 – 6 fall-winter) 858-272-7054

Temecula *

40820 Winchester Rd. by Macy’s 9 am – 1 pm 760-728-7343

FRIDAY Allied Gardens NEW!

5185 Waring Rd. btw Orcutt & Zion 4 – 8 pm 619-279-0032

Borrego Springs


Closed until fall Christmas Circle Comm. Park 7 am – noon (October–May) 760-767-5555

Carmel Valley

Fallbrook Village Assn.

5951 Village Center Loop Rd. 2:30 – 7 pm 858-945-5560

102 S. Main, at Alvarado 11 am – 3 pm 760-723-8384

Chula Vista

Imperial Beach *#

Center St. off Third Ave. 3 – 7 pm (3 – 6 pm fall-winter) 619-422-1982

El Cajon #

Prescott Promenade on East Main Btw Magnolia & Claydelle Aves. 3 – 7 pm, year round 619-641-7510 x-277

Horton Square San Diego

225 Broadway & Broadway Circle 11 am – 3 pm, March thru October 760-741-3763

Linda Vista *#

6900 Linda Vista Rd. 2 – 7 pm (2–6 winter hours) 760-580-0116

North Park *#

3151 University & 32nd St. 3 – 7 pm year round 619-233-3901

Oceanside Morning

Pier View Way & Coast Hwy. 101 9 am –1 pm 619-249-9395

Oceanside Sunset

Tremont & Pier View Way 5 – 9 pm 760-754-4512 x-103


Seacoast Dr. at Pier Plaza Oct-Mar, 12 – 7 pm; Apr-Sep, 12 – 7:30 pm info@

Kearny Mesa

North Island Credit Union pkg lot 5898 Copley 10:30 am – 1:30 pm 858-272-7054

La Mesa Village *

Corner of Spring St. & University 2 – 6 pm 619-249-9395

Rancho Bernardo Winery

13330 Paseo del Verano Norte 9 am – 1 pm 760-500-1709

SATURDAY City Heights *!#

On Wightman St. btw Fairmount & 43rd St. 9 am – 1 pm 760-580-0116

Clairemont at Madison High School NEW!! 4833 Dolivia Dr. 9 am – 3 pm 888-666-0799

Closed until fall Campanile Walkway btw Hepner Hall & Love Library 10 am – 3 pm (Sept to June)

Del Mar

UTC # New Location!

Grand Ave & Kalmia St. 10 am – 2 pm 619-838-8020

7131 Regents Rd. just south of Arriba St. 4 – 7 pm 619-795-3363

Warner Springs

Closed until fall 30951 Hwy 79 Warner Springs 3 pm – 6 pm (Sept – June) 760-782-3517

July-August 2015

1050 Camino Del Mar 1 – 4 pm 858-465-0013

Escondido Saturday

Golden Hill #

B St. btw 27th & 28th Sts. 9:30 am – 1:30 pm 619-795-3363

Lemon Grove *# NEW!

Broadway & Lemon Grove Ave. 9 am – 1 pm 619-289-5535

Little Italy Mercato #

W. Cedar St. (Kettner to Front St.) 8 am – 2 pm 619-233-3901

Pacific Beach

4150 Mission Blvd. 8 am – noon 760-741-3763

People’s Produce *#

Southeast San Diego 4700 Castana St. (north of 47th & Imperial) 3 – 6 pm 619-262-2022

Murrieta *

Village Walk Plaza I-15, exit west on Calif. Oaks/ Kalmia 9 am – 1 pm 760-728-7343

North San Diego #

12655 Sunset Dr. Escondido 10:30 am – 3:30 pm year round 858-735-5311

Point Loma #

Corner of Cañon & Rosecrans 9:30 am – 2:30 pm 619-795-3363

Poway *

Rancho San Diego

Ramona *

Rancho Santa Fe Del Rayo Village

Old Poway Park 14134 Midland Rd. at Temple 8 am – 1 pm 619-249-9395 1855 Main St. (K-Mart pkg lot) 9 am–1 pm 760-788-1924

Scripps Ranch

10380 Spring Canyon Rd. & Scripps Poway Parkway 9 am – 1 pm 858-586-7933

Temecula *

Sixth & Front St. Old Town 8 am – 12:30 pm 760-728-7343

Vista *#

325 Melrose Dr. South of Hwy 78 8 am – 1 pm 760-945-7425

SUNDAY Gaslamp San Diego 400 block of Third Ave. 9 am – 1 pm 619-279-0032

Hillcrest *

3960 Normal & Lincoln Sts. 9 am – 2 pm 619-237-1632


Open June 15 – Oct 28 1656 hwy 78 Library/school prkg lot 10 am – 3 pm 760-765-1749

La Jolla Open Aire Girard Ave. & Genter 9 am – 1 pm 858-454-1699

Leucadia *

185 Union St. & Vulcan St. 10 am – 2 pm 858-272-7054

NEW LOCATION, DAY & TIME! Valhalla HS, 1725 Hillsdale Rd. 1 – 4 pm 619-977-2011

16079 San Dieguito Rd. 9:30 am – 2 pm 619-743-4263

Rincon’s Outdoor Market

Apr – Aug, first or second Sunday of each month 34323 Valley Center Rd. 10 am – 2 pm

San Marcos *#

San Marcos Blvd. & Via Vera Cruz 11 am – 3 pm 760-580-0116

Solana Beach

410 to 444 South Cedros Ave. 1 – 5 pm 858-755-0444

Valley Fort Sunday

3757 South Mission Rd., Fallbrook 10 am – 3 pm 760-728-3205 * Market vendors accept WIC (Women, Infants, Children Farmers’ Market checks) # Market vendors accept EBT (Electronic Benefit Transfer) ! Currently only City Heights accepts WIC Farmers’ Market Checks and the WIC Fruit and Vegetable Checks. All San Diego County markets listed except Rancho San Diego, Rincon, SDSU, Seeds @ City and Valley Fort Sunday are certified by the County Agricultural Commissioner. Visit and click on "Local Food” for more complete information and links to farmers’ market websites and social media pages.







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People everywhere who love music love Jazz88.3 Your local jazz station recognized as the 2014 National Jazz Station of the Year M e M b e r-s u pporte d, coM M e rcial-fr e e, coM M u n ity radio

Voted on by readers, writers and editors of JazzWeek Magazine as well as music producers and record companies across the country. Jazz 88.3 FM competed against five other stations in the same category in large metropolitan areas that included New York, Portland and Detroit. Another feather in San Diego’s hat!