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Member of Edible Communities

Good food. Good drink. Good read. • No. 44 • November-December 2017


Civico Vegan Italian • Oysters in San Diego • Exploring Ramona

November-December 2017


































Photo: Chris Rov Costa Cactus Star sparkling wine. Fig jam from The London Bakery, Ramona.

{Two Cents} Giving thanks “We have the world to live in on the condition that we will take good care of it. And to take good care of it, we have to know it. And to know it and to be willing to take care of it, we have to love it.” -Wendell Berry Winter is here and, as I complete one trip around the sun as the new publisher of Edible San Diego, I am grateful to the team that makes it all happen, especially our former publisher and current managing editor and designer, Riley Davenport. We have embarked on a new chapter for the company, one which I sincerely hope enriches your life.

Photo: John Stokes

Welcome to our Celebrations issue! In our Mediterranean climate, it’s time to harvest and enjoy local, seasonal delicacies like pumpkins, pomegranates, and persimmons. With cooler nights, we want to bake again, make soups, plant winter vegetables, and browse seed catalogs for next spring. Santa Ana winds remind us of summer as we crave sweater weather and time to celebrate with our loved ones. The end of the year is also time for reflection, and one story really stands out. The closing of Suzie’s Farm reminded us all how vulnerable small businesses are. The challenge and the good news is that buying decisions of individuals like us can make all the difference to valiant companies carrying out a mission against the odds. Speaking of small businesses, do you know how Edible San Diego works? We’re known for compelling stories about local food producers and artisans, healthy eating, cooking, gardening, and wellness. Behind the recycled paper and soy-ink printed pages, we pay market rates for writers, printing, and other services. Our contractors live locally and pay what you do for food, housing, transportation, etc. We really are all in this together! Complimentary copies of our magazines are distributed with income from selling advertisements and subscriptions. If you love our magazine, please recommend us to friends of yours with businesses who might like to join (or rejoin) this terrific community. Thank you! To celebrate the holiday season, Edible San Diego is discounting the price of an annual subscription for a limited time. During November and December 2017, our gift to you is six issues of heartfelt, relevant, insightful content for just $12 (instead of $33). See our “best gift deal ever” offer on page 42. Remember, a subscription makes a great gift, and each one helps us keep the lights on. The more I learn about other Edible publications around North America and the wonderful people throughout San Diego County, the more positive I am that together we can support the vision, integrity and grit of local businesses with our buying power. Yes we can! One of my heroes, Wendell Berry, sums things up well for our Celebrations theme. Even though so much work remains to improve it, our regional food system in San Diego County is rich and beautiful. Edible San Diego is here to help all of us learn more about it because, as Berry reminds us, only we can take care of it. In so doing, we take better care of each other. From all of us at Edible San Diego, thank you for another grand year, the cusp of our 10th Anniversary. We wish you, your families, and friends a loving holiday season and peace to all the world. Katie Stokes Publisher, Edible San Diego


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edible Communities 2011 James Beard Foundation Publication of the Year




Chris Rov Costa Edible San Diego Cynthia Dial P.O. Box 83549 Jaime Fritsch San Diego, CA 92138 Michael A. Gardiner 619-756-7292 Caron Golden Noreen Kompanik Lauren Mahan ADVERTISING Daniel Padilla For information about Stephanie Parker rates and deadlines, Kim Reasor contact Katie at Vincent Rossi 619-756-7292 Susan Russo advertise@ Sarah M. Shoffler Robin Dohrn-Simpson

PUBLISHER Katie Stokes


Katie Stokes, Executive Editor

No part of this publication may be used without written permission of the publisher. © 2017 All rights reserved.

Every effort is made to Riley Davenport, avoid errors, misspellings Managing Editor and omissions. If an error Maria Hesse, comes to your attention, Associate Editor please let us know and accept our sincere COPY EDITOR apologies. Thank you. Michelle Honig

DESIGNER Riley Davenport

COVER ART Kim Reasor

Holiday Traditions Begin at The Lodge at Torrey Pines Join us for Seasonal Activities and Dining Events


Cover art by Kim Reasor Kim Reasor was raised in Colorado, where she studied art at a number of different institutions. Her studies included design, figure drawing, painting, and art history. She mainly works in oils, applying her sense of color to overlooked landscapes of the American road as well as urban scenes and industrial landscapes. She enjoys depicting the unique light in California. Reasor has shown in galleries and museums in the United States and Europe and is currently finishing a project generated by an art residency she did in Finland last year. See Kim’s work at

November-December 2017

edible San Diego


{Tidbits} Calling all ostraphiles! In a city like San Diego, made up of many smaller communities, each with its own geographic and culinary identity, “hidden gems” that cater more to locals than the tourist trade are a fact of life. Case in point: The oyster bar happy hour at BEERFISH in North Park, where farmed raw oysters on the half shell are available at half price Monday through Friday from 3 to 6 pm, as well as late-night after hours on weekends.

According to restaurant manager Chris Burchell, “Many people don’t realize that farming oysters is actually good for the environment. By filtering the seawater, these bivalves help to improve the water quality wherever they are farmed.” ~ Lauren Mahan BEERFISH 2933 Adams Ave., San Diego 619-363-2337

Common Theory Public House announces uncommon new menu If you’re a fan of locally sourced, beer-centric cuisine, you’re sure to relish the innovative new menu at Common Theory Public House, where executive chef A. G. Warfield is serving up innovative new eats for the brew-savvy palate, such as:

“I have a long history with the craft brew industry in San Diego,” Warfield explains. “This new menu is designed to complement perfectly our wide selection of local craft beer offerings at Common Theory.”

• The signature Chef ’s Burger— ground chuck, crab cake, cheddar cheese, hollandaise, arugula, and a fried egg

~ Lauren Mahan Common Theory Public House 4805 Convoy St., San Diego 858-384-7974

• Flock of Duck Fries—shoestring fries, shredded duck confit, crispy duck skin, duck gravy, fried duck egg, and scallions

North County’s newest urban farm takes root For more than a decade, Root Cellar Catering Co. owners Marie Brawn and husband/chef Jamie Brawn have dreamed of growing organic, non-GMO produce on their own family farm. This September that dream became a reality as they submitted a simplified permit request to establish a one-acre urban farm just west of Highway 5 in Encinitas. “In 2016 the Encinitas City Council voted to make local agriculture a priority,” Marie recalls. “The idea is to keep developers from gobbling up valuable farmlands that 4

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represent the city’s agricultural heritage.” The Brawns plan to use scraps and other food waste from their catering business to produce their own compost, which will in turn be used to grow fruits and vegetables that will eventually end up on their clients’ tables. “We’ll be ‘closing the loop’ so to speak,” Marie explains. ~ Lauren Mahan Root Cellar Catering Co. 858-876-8106

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Sales Information and Pricing Coming Soon Estate-Caliber Residences with up to 5,687 Square Feet | | 949.751.8951 Prices, plans, and terms are effective on the date of publication and subject to change without notice. Square footage/acreage shown is only an estimate and actual square footage/acreage will differ. Buyer should rely on his or her own evaluation of useable area. Depictions of homes or other features are artist conceptions. Hardscape, landscape, and other items shown may be decorator suggestions that are not included in the purchase price and availability may vary. This ad contains general information about a new home community in California and it is not an offer or the solicitation of an offer for the purchase of a new home. This information is not directed to residents of any other state that requires registration or permit issuance prior to the publication of such information. Plans to build out this neighborhood as proposed are subject to change without notice. CalAtlantic Group, Inc. California Real Estate License No. 01138346. 5/17

November-December 2017

edible San Diego


{Local Talent}

Vegan Italian Cuisine to Dream About By Susan Russo Photos by Chris Rov Costa


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Born and raised in Southern Italy, Pietro cultivated his love of food from time spent cooking with his mother. “For us [Italians], food is everything,” he says, gently placing his palm over his heart. Although he willingly adopted a vegan diet, he admits, “I didn’t want to miss my food, so I started to convert Italian recipes to vegan.” Four years and countless iterations of recipes later, Pietro’s vegan menu is generating approximately 30 percent of the restaurant’s revenue. The vegan offerings vary considerably. Some feature straight swaps, such as the oyster mushroom “calamari” whose chewy texture and burst of umami mimic that of squid. Other dishes like the caprese mozzarella showcase juicy heirloom tomatoes and a stunningly creamy rice milk mozzarella. The lasagna romagnola features a rich vegan sausage ragout and seductively creamy bechamel sauce made from 50 percent vegetable broth and 50 percent rice milk. It’s a revelation for many diners. Indeed, Pietro coyly shares a story of one female diner, who after tasting the

meatless version, complained to him, “I asked for the vegan version; you gave me the regular lasagna.” Many of the vegan dishes compare favorably nutritionally with traditional Italian fare. According to Pietro, Civico’s vegan lasagna has a higher protein content and approximately ⅓ fewer calories and fat than its traditional version. One downside to vegan cooking, however, is the cost. Whereas a chef could order inexpensive ground meat for a typical bolognese sauce, Civico’s chefs don’t have a similarly low-cost vegan option. They also use pricier organic produce for 100 percent of their vegan menu and for 85-95 percent of their traditional menu. Since they make their regular pasta in-house, the risk for gluten crosscontamination is too high, explains Pietro, so they import their gluten-free pasta from Italy. They also use a separate set of cookware for vegan dishes. Diners appreciate this attention to detail. “We have a lot of people with food allergies [who] feel comfortable here,” explains Pietro. Recently, he had a diner with an allergy to garlic. “For us, from the south [of Italy], [garlic] is in everything!” says a bewildered Pietro, shaking his head. “But it’s no big deal,” he adds. “We cook it from scratch for him.” Such accommodation has created positive word-of-mouth for the brothers’ two year old restaurant. “We have people from everywhere here to try vegan dishes, from San Francisco and Los Angeles, from Portland and Canada,” says Pietro, and “they ask me to open a location there.”

Photo courtesy of Civico


or vegans, dining out at an Italian restaurant can be like a walk through a culinary minefield. After successfully navigating their way around the caprese salad and ravioli, they might unwittingly step on the pasta with marinara sauce. The pasta might contain eggs, while the sauce might have butter, explains Pietro Gallo, vegan chef and coowner, with brother Dario, of Little Italy’s Civico 1845. Vegan diners needn’t worry about hidden dangers at Civico 1845 since they can order from a 100 percent vegan menu created by Pietro Gallo, himself a vegan of four years.

Chef Pietro Gallo

Will the brothers trailblaze their way across the country offering both classic and vegan Italian cuisine? Pietro, who appears genuinely surprised and humbled by their rapid success, is noncommittal. His focus, for now, he says, is on the next day at the restaurant, another 16-hour shift, and he couldn’t be happier: “I love it! It’s my passion!” he exclaims.


Civico 1845 1845 India St., San Diego 619-431-5990 Susan Russo is a cookbook author and freelance food and travel writer. She contributes regularly to and has a monthly Get Fresh! column in the San Diego Union-Tribune. Follow her at @Susan_Russo on Twitter or email her at

Chef Gallo’s recipes on page 8

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Vegan Mediterranean Pasta Salad Serves 4 2 medium Italian eggplants (about 1 pound each), peeled and cut into into ½ inch cubes 4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 4 teaspoons balsamic vinegar 4 teaspoons dried oregano A pinch of salt 4 ounces sun-dried tomatoes in olive oil, cut into thin strips 4 ounces fresh arugula 6 ounces vegan mozzarella (preferably Miyoko’s), cut into small cubes 12 ounces whole-grain pasta Preheat oven to 400°.

Vegan Italian White Bean Soup Serves 2 to 3 4 Roma tomatoes, quartered 1 red bell pepper, sliced 4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 1 tablespoon dried mixed Italian herbs 6 ounces canned Italian cannellini beans, drained 1 tablespoon tomato purée A few fresh basil leaves, plus extra for garnish 1 ¼ cup water Salt and pepper to taste Preheat oven to 355°. Line a baking tray with parchment paper. Combine tomatoes and peppers in a bowl with olive oil and Italian herbs. Taste and season with salt and pepper as desired. Place vegetables on tray and bake for approximately 30 minutes. In a blender, purée the beans with the roasted vegetables, tomato purée, a few basil leaves and water until smooth. Transfer to a pot and heat through on the stove top. Serve topped with julienne cut basil and, if desired, vegan croutons.


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Place eggplant in a bowl with the olive oil, balsamic vinegar, oregano, and salt and toss to coat. Transfer to an oven-safe dish and bake for 20 minutes. Allow to cool. Cook pasta to taste. When cooked, cool down with a rinse of cold water. In a large serving dish, combine the pasta, eggplant, sun-dried tomatoes, arugula, and vegan mozzarella. Sprinkle with salt to taste. Optional garnish: Drizzle balsamic vinegar on top and scatter with halved fresh cherry tomatoes.

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November-December 2017

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{Kitchen Know-how}

The Perfect Pie Crust By Caron Golden


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am all about pies. I grew up making them with my grandmother who appeared at Thanksgiving with her apple and pumpkin pies until I was almost 30. She’d make the apple pies well before the holiday and freeze them, unbaked, to put in the oven on the morning of. You can’t do that with pumpkin pies, so she’d make the crusts, arrange them in the pie tins, and also pop them in the freezer. Once she was no longer able to bake, the Thanksgiving pie making became my role. But I discovered her way was no longer the best way. She used Spry shortening back in the day before transitioning to

margarine—and I didn’t want to use those ingredients. I needed a refresh. So several years ago I began a quest for the perfect crust that has taken me to several of San Diego’s best pastry chefs, who have taught me their techniques. Of course, there’s no one way to make pie crust, no one set of perfect ingredients (although everyone boasts theirs is perfect), no one set-in-stone technique. And that diversity is the beauty of pie. But, as many a failed pie maker knows, it’s also the source of a lot of frustration. I needed mentors so I wouldn’t resort to buying a pre-made, store-bought crust.

Here are my three favorite mentors and their pie crust tips: Michele Coulon of Michele Coulon Dessertier in La Jolla has, by far, the simplest technique. She took me under her wing to teach me her traditional French technique. It relies on just a few quality ingredients and sticking to a formula. First, use the best ingredients possible. Coulon uses unsalted European-style butter (try Straus Family Creamery’s Europeanstyle organic butter or Plugra). Second, measure or weigh the ice water for the crust. Keep the dough chilled—this is a universal commandment for pie crust making. Then there are the usual debates over pie pans: Glass versus ceramic versus aluminum or metal. Coulon uses aluminum pie tins for customers but prefers dark metal pans when baking for family, to help with browning. She’s not fond of ceramic pie plates and is firmly antiglass (sorry, Pyrex). As for putting it together, instead of using a food processor, Coulon is about simplicity—a bowl, a couple of knives, a spoon, and clean hands. Slice the butter, mix together flour and salt, add the butter into the flour mixture, and, using the two knives, cut the butter into the flour to pea-sized pieces. Then add your ice water and start mixing it together with a spoon. Once that stops being effective, plunge your hands in to scoop and press together the dough until it just comes together. Rolling comes next, then letting the dough rest, then fill it. But we’ll return to this. Tina Luu is a pastry chef with a mission: teaching. She taught at the Art Institute in San Diego for many years and now is focusing her sights on teaching high school students. Her favorite method uses cold butter for flavor, but also Crisco to get a flakier, more

tender crust. She also blends all purpose flour with pastry flour—and a little salt and sugar. For simplicity, she uses an all-butter and all purpose flour recipe, presented here. Finally, there’s Kathleen Shen. Shen had been the pastry chef of the late great Bake Sale Bakery in the East Village. She, like Luu, likes the classic blending of butter and shortening. And she explained why you don’t want to work all the fat into the flour. “You want those pieces of fat because they create pockets of steam and thus flakiness. And you want to minimize how much you work the dough to avoid developing gluten. Then the dough gets tough. Instead, it should just hold together.” Shen presses the dough into a disk before putting it in the fridge to cool. Then comes time to roll out. Now rolling out dough can be the greatest source of pie-making anxiety. Shen is the one who gave me the foolproof technique I continue to use. Here we go: Brush surface with flour and let the rolling pin do the work, not your arms. Roll the disk once. Turn it a quarter. Roll. Turn. Roll. Turn. You end up with a nice evenly rolled circle that doesn’t stick to the surface. (For extra flaky dough, you can also fold your rolled out dough into quarters and roll it out again--like laminating dough for croissants or puff pastry.) Fold the now large circle gently into quarters and lift it into the pie tin.

Unfold. Press into the pie tin and that’s it. For a double-crust pie—like apple—fold the top dough over the bottom at the edge, press to close, then crimp. Want to do something a little different with your crust? Instead of graham cracker crust for a chocolate cream pie, Shen suggests making a chocolate chip cookie dough, sans the chips, bake it, run it through the food processor to get the crumbs, and add sugar and butter. Then press into the pie tin and refrigerate until ready to use. Want to add some extra structure to a pie dough for lemon meringue? Instead of rolling the dough out with flour, use graham cracker crumbs. And don’t forget my Nana’s strategy for holiday pies—make the crusts in advance and freeze them either in a disk or rolled out in your pie tin. It’s like having premade crusts—only you made them.


Award-winning freelance writer Caron Golden is the author of the blog San Diego Foodstuff and Edible San Diego’s blog Close to the Source. She appears frequently on radio, and has contributed to Saveur, Sunset, Culinate, Riviera, the San Diego U-T, the Los Angeles Times and many other publications.

Pie recipes

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edible San Diego


Michele Coulon’s Apple Pie

Tina Luu’s All Butter Flaky Pie Dough

Tina Luu’s Classic Pumpkin Pie

1 Southern Pie Pastry (recipe below)

1 ½ cups all purpose flour

10 ounces pumpkin purée

1 pound 5 ounces apples (weight after peeling and coring)

1 teaspoon salt

Pinch of salt

2 tablespoons sugar

3½ ounces granulated sugar

½ cup cold unsalted butter

3½ ounces brown sugar

1 to 3 tablespoons ice water

¼ teaspoon ground cardamom

1 egg

1 teaspoon ground ginger

Sift or whisk dry ingredients together. By hand, cut in cold butter to fava bean size.

¼ teaspoon ground nutmeg

Mix egg and 2 tablespoons ice water together. Add and fold/press mixture until the dough comes together. As it comes together rotate the dough, adding a little more ice water if needed, just a little bit at a time. Don’t over mix—you want striations of butter in the dough.

3 eggs

Gently form the dough into a short square that will make it easier to roll out later. Wrap in plastic wrap and chill at least 2 hours or preferably overnight. Or put it in the freezer to use at a later date.

2 teaspoons vanilla extract or paste

1 cup sugar 1 teaspoon salt 2 tablespoons flour 3 tablespoons heavy cream (plus ½ cup for crust) 1 ounce butter 1 to 2 teaspoons cinnamon (optional) Egg wash for crust (1 egg and ½ cup heavy cream, lightly beaten together) Preheat oven to 450˚. Make Southern Pie Pastry and set aside. Peel, core and slice apples and place in a large bowl. Sift dry ingredients together, add to apples, and mix well. Add heavy cream. Roll out pastry to form two round pie crusts. Reserve one crust and cut into 1 inch strips to create a lattice top. Place the whole pie crust in the pie tin, leaving edges hanging loosely over the sides. Fill with apple mixture. Dot apples with butter. Weave a lattice on top with reserved pastry strips. Fold the loosely hanging dough up and use a fork to pinch edges, making sure not to go all the way through the dough with the fork. Brush the lattice top with the egg wash. Place the pie tin on a tray to catch any drippings and bake for 10 minutes. Turn the oven down to 350˚. Continue to bake until the apples are done—30 minutes at first and then probably another 15 minutes. The pie is done when a knife inserted into the center comes out clean.

Southern Pie Pastry Makes two pie crusts, top and bottom (or cut recipe in half for a single pie crust) 4 cups flour 1 teaspoon salt 1 pound cold unsalted European-style butter cut into 1-inch chunky pieces Mix ingredients until coarse crumbs form. Add 12 tablespoons ice water. Mix until just blended. Chill until firm. 12

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When you’re ready to make the pie, preheat the oven to 350˚. Flour your surface and roll out the square until it’s 1/₆th of an inch thick and the edge will hang over the pie tin. If you’re making a pumpkin or other cream pie, you’ll do a blind bake—meaning you’ll place the dough in the pie tin, line it with parchment paper and add weights (like dried beans) across the surface. Bake at 350˚ for 15 minutes or until golden. Remove the parchment paper and weights and bake for another 10 minutes. Let cool, then fill and follow the baking directions for the specific type of pie. If you’re baking a fruit pie, skip the blind bake step above and add the fruit mixture. Follow the baking directions for the specific type of pie.

1½ teaspoons ground cinnamon 6 ounces evaporated milk 5 ounces heavy cream ¼ vanilla bean pod, seeds scraped (discard pod)

Preheat the oven to 420°. Combine pumpkin, salt, granulated sugar, brown sugar, and spices in a saucepan and cook 3 minutes over a medium flame. Cool. Whisk together eggs, evaporated milk, heavy cream, scraped vanilla bean seeds, and vanilla extract or paste. Add to the pumpkin mixture. Mix until smooth. Pour into a frozen or parbaked pie shell. Reduce heat to 325° and bake about 35 minutes until the custard is set on the side and the center just jiggles. Cool completely.

Cranberry Compote 8 ounces fresh or frozen whole cranberries 6 ounces granulated sugar Zest and juice of one orange 2 ounces candied ginger, diced (optional) Combine the cranberries, sugar, and orange juice in a saucepan and cook over medium high heat until cranberries burst open. Stir periodically so the bottom doesn’t scorch. Once the mixture thickens to “cranberry sauce” consistency, pull off the heat. Mix in orange zest and diced ginger, and cool. Top the pumpkin pie with the compote and decorate with vanilla bean or orangeinfused whipped cream.

Local organic produce, meat & seafood Authentic Italian cuisine Food, wine & spirits pairing events ner, • Best Chef Win tà Lo io rs Accu t Winner • Best Wine Lis orld • 2017 Pasta Wip Winner, sh on pi am Ch Accursio Lotà

Patio dining Dog friendly

2820 Roosevelt Road • Liberty Station, Point Loma • (619) 270-9670 •

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{Liquid Assets}

The Sparkling Wines of Ramona and Julian By Robin Dohrn-Simpson


while back, Joe Cullen, owner and winemaker of Cactus Star Vineyard, decided it would be fun to make a sparkling wine and set about teaching himself the traditional French “méthode champenoise.” This method requires a secondary fermentation in the bottle. You take a beautifully made bottle of white wine, add a mixture of sugar and yeast, cover the bottle with a top similar to a beer cap, and allow the yeast to ferment the wine for several months to a year, depending on the wine. The wine is stored at an angle, upside down, to allow the accumulating sediment to descend into the neck of the bottle. The bottle is hand riddled (twisted) daily or weekly, depending on the winemaker. The final step in the process is disgorgement. The neck of the bottle is frozen with dry ice, the bottle is opened, and the sediment that has accumulated is launched about 25 feet in the air! Once the neck is clear, the bottle is immediately corked and a wire cage is put on. And, as the French would say, voilà! “I had a lot of fun making my sparkling wine and, when others became interested, I found it fun to help out and share what I learned,” Cullen said. You’ll have to wait to try his sparkling Viognier, because the first batch is already sold out. Hopefully he’ll make more this year. Elaine Lyttleton, winemaker and co-owner of Hatfield Creek Vineyards & Winery, is one of Cullen’s sparkling wine students. She has just released her second vintage of “Celebration,” named by her 98 year old mother. The wine, a Muscat Canelli first made by Micole Moore of Ramona Ranch Winery, was fermented into sparkling wine at Hatfield Creek. With the help of wine club members, a work party and a promise of a bottle upon release, these aficionados helped disgorge the bottles of sediment and recork the wines. Get to the winery fast for your bottle as there are only 32 cases set aside for the public. Moore, Ramona Ranch Winery co-owner and winemaker, is always ready to try something new and different. He researched one of the oldest methods of producing sparkling wines that has made a resurgence and decided to try his hand at it. He made Pétillant-Naturel, or Pét-Nat for short, a sparkling wine produced in the méthode


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ancestral. This historic method predates the méthode champenoise. The main difference in methods is that the wine is bottled before it has completed its first fermentation, allowing carbon dioxide to be produced by the natural sugars found in the grapes. Unlike Champagne, Pét-Nat is not disgorged or filtered on completion of fermentation. Pét-Nat has a light and fizzy mouthfeel and is low in alcohol. The end result is a raw, rustic, and lively wine that is slightly sweet and can age a few years in the bottle. Don’t worry about the cloudy liquid—this is due to the lack of filtering the remaining sediment. “Customers love this wine,” Moore said. “I plan on making more of it.” Another bit of sparkle is happening just up the hill from Ramona, in Julian. Most San Diegans know Julian has apples, lots of apples. But, what to do with so many delicious apples? Sure, you can make pies, and you can make juice, but how about a sparkling apple wine? That’s what Jim and Mike Hart, winemakers and co-owners of Volcan Mountain Winery, decided to do. The result is a sparkling apple wine called Pomme D’ Amor.

in our cold room. We picked over 500 boxes in 2016,” Jim said. All in all, it was a six month project from orchard to bottle. Apple wine is made much like hard cider or white wine. Once the apples were picked and pressed, the juice was sweetened with sugar and fermented with a white wine yeast. When it was just to Jim’s liking, the apple wine was then fined (cleared of cloudy settlement), then settled and filtered. Once the wine was clear and clean, he trucked it in plastic tanks to Oak Mountain Winery in Temecula where it was force carbonated with CO₂ and bottled. Make sure you taste this wine on your next visit to Julian. Besides the obvious apple notes, it also has subtle citrus undertones, a slightly creamy texture and a clean, lingering finish. It is delightful for sitting on the patio while enjoying your day. All of the winemakers agree that it is fun to make these wines but a ton of work. “It’s a great time, you get to work with fellow winemakers and learn the process, everyone chips in and does their part and when it’s done you have a special beverage that you can enjoy with friends,” Moore said. It’s well worth the effort to search out these special wines from local, boutique wineries. They only make small batches, so get ‘em while you can.

“This is our second sparkling apple wine,” Jim said. “Both were made entirely from our 10 acres of estate grown apples. Some of the apples included are Early Golds, Golden Delicious, Red Delicious, Jonathan, MacIntosh, Pippin, Granny Smith, Empire, and Gravenstein.”


“Because we have so many types of apples, the picking process took almost two months. The early apples were picked first and stored

Pecan Pie Cake

Order your holiday baked goods now! OPEN DAILY FROM 7AM — 2PM 2977 UPAS STREET SAN DIEGO, CA 92104 619-546-5609 CARDAMOMSANDIEGO.COM

Light up your holidays!

Traveling to 49 of the 50 states before she was 20 was the start to Robin Dohrn-Simpson’s unquenchable wanderlust. She’s been to over 70 countries, has lived in Brazil and Costa Rica, and has 26 years’ experience in the travel industry. Robin has a weakness for cute cafes and roads less traveled, especially if that road has a winery on it.

Cactus Star Vineyard 17029 Handlebar Rd. Ramona 760-787-0779

Ramona Ranch Winery 23578 Highway 78 Ramona 760-789-1622

Hatfield Creek Vineyards & Winery 1625 Highway 78 Ramona 760-787-1102

Volcan Mountain Winery 1255 Julian Orchards Dr. Julian 760-765-3267

Handmade Holidays


Let our candles remind you that life is indeed beautiful. Visit us at Little Italy Farmers Market. A PORTION OF PROCEEDS GOES TO THE MONARCH SCHOOL.

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riny, juicy, sweet, and chewy. These are not the words I used to describe the first oysters I ever ate, nor those for years after. Those words were: “salty, chewy mucus.” Why did I ever eat a second? Mostly etiquette and love of socializing. There was a backyard party where the generous host had hundreds of his favorite oysters flown in from Maine. Everyone slurped them down, raw and grilled. There was plenty of beer so I swallowed my share and piqued my interest. When manners forced me to try more oysters in the 15 years since that backyard party, I slowly grew to love their texture—silky, creamy, and chewy all at once. I began to notice the variety of flavors—from copper to lemon to honeydew—and always briny.

The benefits of farming oysters Oysters naturally live in estuaries, tidal creeks, bays, and sounds, in brackish to full seawater. Oysters spawn when waters are warm. Pregnant oysters are often creamier in texture and can be funky in flavor, which is why some people believe oysters shouldn’t be eaten in months that don’t have an “r” in them. They aren’t unsafe to eat in the summer, but many people who do simply don’t enjoy the flavor.

The Mighty Oyster in Our Fair City By Sarah M. Shoffler

Photos by Chris Rov Costa 16

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Most of the oysters we eat on the Pacific Coast are farmed. Farming methods fall into two categories: bottom and offbottom culturing. In bottom culturing, oyster farmers “plant” oyster “seeds,” or young oysters, on the bottom of the bay, creek, sound, or estuary in the type of environment where oysters would naturally be found. “The act of growing oysters has minimal impact on the environment. It requires no feed, supplements, or medications. The growing area is small considering the amount of protein produced. As filterfeeders, oysters naturally continuously filter and clean the waters in which they live,” says Rebecca Richards, an owner of the local Carlsbad Aquafarm, as well as Fresh Kumiai Oysters at Coronado Marriott

Clausen Oysters in Oregon. Oysters then eat and live as they would in the wild, for the most part, until they are harvested. Adult oysters can filter up to 50 gallons of water a day. This helps clean the water, especially of algae. In fact, the Billion Oyster Project aims to improve water quality and habitat in the New York Harbor by restoring 1 billion live oysters. Oysters are functionally extinct in the harbor. Oyster reefs that once inhabited the harbor not only filtered the water and decreased wave action, they provided habitat for fish, crabs, worms, barnacles, etc.

So many oysters, but just five species While there are hundreds of oyster varieties, there are only about 70 edible species. Of those, only five are commonly farmed and sold in North America. Two are native to North America: Atlantic, found on the Atlantic Coast from Canada to the Gulf of Mexico, and Olympia (or Oly), found along the U.S. Pacific West Coast. Both are hard to come by. The Oly is smaller and takes longer to grow than do the nonnative species. Few aquafarms grow Olys and they’re more expensive than others by the pound. This is why you don’t often see them on San Diego menus. If you do come across these gems, try them. They taste like a Bloody Mary. Of the other three species—European flat, Kumamoto and Pacific—San Diego menus regularly feature Pacifics and Kumamotos. With names like Kusshi, Sol Azul, Fanny Bay, and Kumiai, the Pacific varieties are named for where they are grown, as are the European flats. Kumamotos are sold simply as Kumamoto or Kumos. As names change with location, so do flavors. The characteristic of seafood taste deriving from location has recently been coined “merroir” after the French terroir, which describes the way the flavor of wine grapes and some foods reflect the flavors of the soil in which they’re grown.

Luke, the oyster shucker and cook at the fun outside seafood kiosk at the Coronado Marriott, shucks Thursday through Sunday.

What’s local?

“It’s close to the same experience as with wine or beer. You pick up subtle differences based on the conditional variables of the growing region,” says Timothy Fuller, executive chef at Tiger! Tiger!, on eating oysters. “The same species of oysters from Baja tastes more briny than those from British Columbia due to the growing waters,” says Dave Rudie, owner of Catalina Offshore Products. The Kumo, however, is usually sweet and less briny than the others. Pacifics will range in flavor from lemon to melon, from cream to copper, to any combination of these, depending on where they’re grown.

San Diego has few oyster farms. This is because “permitting and affordable coastal land is very difficult to attain in Southern California,” Richards tells me. And the farms in Northern California don’t distribute to Southern California, says Chef Michael Poompan, executive chef, Coronado Island Marriott Resort & Spa. “They’re sold locally in the region where they’re grown, so we don’t have access to them down here.” The most local oysters we can get in San Diego are the Pacifics and Kumos farmed in Baja or Central California. Carlsbad Aquafarm sells its oysters wholesale to Whole Foods,

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“It’s like swimming in the ocean with each slurp,” says Poompan. While many oysters require delicate toppings not to overpower the flavor, the Kumiai can handle stronger mignonettes and pairings with heavy beers.

What to look for in an oyster As with any seafood, look for traceability when selecting. Does the fishmonger or grocer know where they were grown? Oysters are alive when sold and shucked and eaten raw. If you’re buying live, whole oysters, look for shells that are shut tight, or that close quickly when tapped. They should smell briny fresh and look clean. If you’ve ordered them on the half-shell, the oysters tend to quiver when you squeeze lemon on them— proof that the animal is alive.


Wood fired oysters and oysters on the half shell at Tiger!Tiger!

Sprouts Farmers Market and many California restaurants. The Kumiai (a Pacific varietal) was named for the indigenous people who lived on the Baja California Peninsula, where they’re

grown. They’re cultivated in Vizcaino Bay, which is about halfway down Baja and right near a biosphere reserve. The chilly and nutrient-rich waters they come from result in meaty oysters all year round. They have a strong briny flavor with a sweet ending.

When it's about food... #specialtyproduce


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Sarah M. Shoffler is a seafood enthusiast, foodie philosopher, board member of Slow Food Urban San Diego and a fishery biologist. On Saturdays you can usually find her at the fish market eyeing the week’s catch or surfing the Shores.

Located at the Catamaran Resort Hotel and Spa | Complimentary Valet Parking 3999 Mission Boulevard, San Diego, CA 92109

| November-December 2017

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I Finding the Missing Crayons and Moving Beyond the Latke

Photo: Jamie Fritsch

t’s a question faced in just about every Jewish home come Hanukkah-time: How do we do latkes this year? Of all the things we could possibly make, it ends up being latkes every year. It’s as if we always choose to color with the same few crayons in the 64-color box. Maybe it’s time to use some of the other colors. At the core of the Jewish approach to food is “mindfulness.” An observant Jew cannot simply walk into a chain restaurant and have what everyone else is having: Cheeseburgers (incorporating, of course, both meat and milk) are not remotely kosher. At a deeper level, kabbalah—the Jewish mystical tradition—teaches us to move toward a unity of our body’s eating (food) and our soul’s eating (glimpsing the divine). By focusing on what we’re eating and why we’re eating it, we can get in better touch with the order of things.

By Michael A. Gardiner 20

edible San Diego

November-December 2017

Of course one need not be an observant Jew or a kabbalist to enjoy the benefits of focusing on being mindful of what we put into the body and how it relates to larger issues. Take, for

example, the issue of corn and monoculture. After a century of corporate agriculture, the corn in today’s supermarkets—whether sweet, flour or meal—is almost inconceivably less diverse than the pre-Columbian varieties of the North American or Mesoamerican Indians. And with the loss of corn varieties has come a loss of flavors. From a cook’s perspective, it’s like removing 9 to 10 of the colors out of a box of 64 crayons. Sound familiar?

product, make cornmeal from a company dedicated to values such as the use of non-GMO, heirloom corn and/or biodiversity (such as Masienda, Anson Mills or Bob’s Red Mill) the star of the dish. Adding shredded smoked chicken (or duck, if you prefer) mixed in with the batter elevates the hush puppies which sit on top of a classic remoulade sauce with a gremolata garnish.

Instead of the same latkes for Hanukkah, a new approach may lie at the other end of a search for some of those missing crayons: Hush puppies, the southern classic of cornmeal fried in the oil that is the essence of the Hanukkah story. Instead of using a mass-market

Michael A. Gardiner is a freelance writer and licensed California attorney living in San Diego and Rosarito Beach, Baja California. Gardiner is the regular food writer for San Diego CityBeat and a freelance writer for Thrillist, Edible San Diego, and Fox News Latino. He is also the primary writer for, and one of two co-hosts of the All Forked Up Podcast on the Specialty Produce Network.


Heirloom Hush Puppies | Smoked Chicken | Remoulade | Gremolata Serves 4


Smoked Chicken*

Hush Puppies

1 cup mayonnaise

1 carrot, roughly chopped

Vegetable oil

2 tablespoons Dijon mustard

2 stalks celery, roughly chopped

1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice

1 small onion, peeled and roughly chopped

1 cup non-GMO cornmeal (such as Bob’s Red Mill Blue Cornmeal)

1 tablespoon Italian parsley, finely chopped

2 bay leaves

2 teaspoons baking powder

1 sprig fresh thyme

1 teaspoon kosher salt

1 tablespoon kosher salt

¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper

3 cups beer (of your choice, but not a heavy beer like a porter or stout)

1 cup chopped smoked chicken

2 cloves garlic, peeled and minced 2 teaspoons capers, roughly chopped

2 pounds chicken thigh fillets

¼ cup red onion, peeled and finely chopped

4 cornichons, chopped

Smoker chips of your choice

¼ cup scallion, finely chopped

1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce

*This recipe calls for the use of a handheld Smoking Gun™, an exciting kitchen gadget used by professional chefs and at-home culinary hobbyists. The device makes adding rich, smoky flavor to your dishes simple, and it’s fun to play with. If you don’t have a handheld Smoking Gun™, try making a stove top smoker like this one on article/Video/VIDEO-How-to-Make-aStovetop-Smoker.

1 large egg, lightly beaten

1 tablespoon Louisiana-style hot sauce 2 teaspoons Creole mustard

1 teaspoon mild paprika 1 scallion, finely chopped ¼ teaspoon kosher salt ⅛ teaspoon cayenne pepper

You may opt to skip the smoking step and expect that the flavors of the dish will still be delicious—just not as delicious as smoked chicken.

1 tablespoon granulated sugar

¼ cup beer ¼ cup coconut cream

Gremolata 1 bunch Italian parsley, finely minced 1 clove garlic, peeled and finely minced 1 lemon Kosher salt and black pepper to taste

Instructions follow on page 22 November-December 2017

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Make the Remoulade: In a small bowl, mix together the remoulade ingredients and let sit for 1 hour for flavors to combine, then cover and refrigerate. Poach the Chicken Thighs: In a large, straight-sided skillet combine the first 7 ingredients. Bring to a boil, reduce to a simmer, cover, and cook 8 minutes. Season the chicken with salt and gently lower into the simmering liquid (liquid should just cover chicken). Cover and simmer until the chicken is cooked through, about 10 minutes. Using a wide slotted spatula, remove chicken from the liquid and refrigerate. Smoke the Chicken Thighs: When the chicken is cool, shred it and place in a metal bowl large enough to contain the chicken with room to spare. Place the smoking chips of your choice (pecan is a good option) in a Smoking Gun™ and operate according to the manufacturer’s instructions, covering the bowl with

plastic wrap. Allow the chicken to sit in the smoke for at least 5 minutes. Form the Hush Puppies: Stir together cornmeal and next 7 ingredients in a large bowl. Add the egg, beer, and coconut cream and stir just until moistened. Let stand 10 minutes. Working in batches, gently roll the hush puppy dough into golf ball-sized balls then dab with paper towels on all sides to dry the surface a bit. Cook the Hush Puppies: Pour oil to a depth of 3 inches into a Dutch oven or deep fryer and bring to 375°. Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 200°. Carefully lower a few hush puppies into hot oil using a slotted spoon. Take care not to crowd the pot or fryer. Fry until golden brown and cooked through, turning with a wooden spoon for even browning, 2 to 3 minutes. Drain on a wire rack over paper towels. Keep warm in the preheated 200° oven.

Make the Gremolata: Using a zester, remove about 1 teaspoon of lemon zest and finely mince. Keep in mind that the zest is the outer peel of a lemon, not the inner white pith. Be careful not to include any of the pith below the skin because it is bitter. Toss the minced lemon zest with the remaining ingredients in a bowl and season to taste with kosher salt and black pepper. Plate the dish: Form a pool of remoulade towards the upper left of the plate and place a hush puppy on it. Draw a line of the gremolata across the plate below the hush puppy and the remoulade.

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Agritourism for the Holidays By Stephanie Parker


he holiday season is upon us. It’s time to take a step back from the daily grind and give thanks for the food, family, and friends that we surround ourselves with. Growing up in an Italian family, I learned that there are two key ingredients to a memorable holiday gathering—good food and good company. I love that food is a worldwide connector. We gather over food to celebrate so many of life’s milestones. Just one bite and food can send you back in time to some of your fondest and most cherished memories. Maybe because of the hustle and bustle of our day-to-day lives, we long for meaningful food experiences. Whether in a new city, or in their own backyards, people are seeking a deeper connection with their environment. Farming has been an essential part of human history that continues to develop today. San Diego is quickly becoming a destination for culinary travel and agritourism with no signs of stopping. Agritourism—what does that mean? It is broadly defined as an opportunity for people to visit a farm or ranch and participate in activities for enjoyment and education. This can include farm stays, farm dinners, various classes, picnics, tours, and an array of other activities. It’s no secret—farming is hard work and our local farmers need our support more than ever before. By adding invaluable ways to further connect their community to their food sources, farmers are able to add another revenue stream to their profitability. Leslee Gaul, President and CEO of the Visit Oceanside Conference and Visitors Bureau, applauds local farmers for educating and exposing the community to their local food system. “If we don’t pay attention to initiatives happening in our local communities, we will lose this critical way of life,” Gaul says. Local farmers are providing spaces (figuratively and literally) for connection while ensuring financial stability during some of the most trying times.


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November-December 2017

If you’re like me and are seeking unique experiences to share with your loved ones this holiday season, I’ve put together some ideas on how you and your family and friends can reconnect and experience San Diego at its core.

Take a class on a local farm. Wild Willow Farm and Education Center in Imperial Beach has a packed calendar of various classes you can take to learn about regenerative agriculture, healthy soil, pickling, raising goats, cheese making, and beekeeping. You can even take a six-week intensive course about small-scale farming and learn to grow food in your own backyard. “We truly believe that the best food is the food you grow yourself. We are here to show our community that growing your own food is possible and it doesn’t have to be scary,” says Founding Farmer, Mel Lions. With a variety of classes offered year-round, you’re guaranteed to leave Wild Willow Farm with a newfound love for a once daunting idea.

Photo: Brendon Klein

Top: Cyclops Farms Water Bill Dinner Bottom: Dickinson Farm Tour

Veteran owned and operated, Dickinson Farm is an all heirloom urban farm in National City. Farmers Stepheni Norton and Mike Lesley saw an opportunity to grow food for their community in one of San Diego’s biggest food deserts. Every Monday night you can find the Dickinson Farm Farm Stand at Machete Beer House where you can enjoy your craft brew and shop directly from your local farmer. Every second Saturday of the month, the farm is open to the public for their on-site farm stand and farm tours. “By visiting and shopping from your local farm, you’re shopping your values. When we lose farms and farmers, we lose sustainability and sufficiency. Local farms provide local jobs, increase local economy, and keep local dollars local,” says Norton. Dickinson Farm also offers a series of unique farmto-table dining experiences to reconnect their community by breaking bread over meaningful conversation.

Photo: Rob Forsythe

Take a farm tour or visit your local farm stand.

Dine alfresco on a local farm. Cyclops Farms is located in a residential neighborhood of Oceanside with a gorgeous ocean view. That view comes with a hefty price tag. Faced with paying residential water prices, farmer Luke Girling created his Water Bill Dinner series at Cyclops Farms to raise money to, well…pay his water bill. By adding this revenue stream, it frees up finances to spend on other farm expenditures like organic fertilizer, seeds, and equipment. Girling has cultivated relationships with talented local chefs who are committed to ensuring quality local food is getting to our tables. Girling and team create monthly dinners serving a truly farm-to-fork meal. Guests can purchase their seats for these

dinners by visiting the farm stand on Saturdays. “We want to reward the people who are loyal to their community, who continuously support Cyclops Farms. By visiting the farm stand, we’re given the opportunity to connect with people who care about their food and, in turn, give them first pick at attending one of our farm dinners,” says Girling. Enjoy your holiday season with loved ones over some good, local food.


Stephanie Parker is passionate about San Diego’s hospitality industry, a champion for local food, a board member of Slow Food Urban San Diego and Founder of Epicurean San Diego. She loves to travel and explore new cities through their culinary scene.

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Flying Pig Pub & Kitchen

By Noreen Kompanik

Celebrating Family, Friends, and Community


hen Roger “Roddy” Browning and his wife and partner Aaron found a building for rent in the coastal community of Oceanside in 2011, they knew the stars had aligned for their new restaurant, Flying Pig Pub & Kitchen. Even curious locals stopped by and offered their help in getting the restaurant opened as soon as possible.

Photos by Daniel Padilla

Don’t let the name of the restaurants fool you. Far from being barbecue joints offering pub grub, the cuisine is best described as artisanal California eclectic with a southern twist. It’s not just delectable, it’s responsible and sustainable. Instead of an overarching culinary theme, the Flying Pig restaurants are known for superbly crafted dishes that tantalize the palate.

In 2015, much to the delight of a neighboring community, their second location opened in Vista. It not only works, it works well. As Aaron puts it, “That’s why we’ve been in North County for over six years. We support the community and they in turn support us.” Both Roddy and Aaron, level two sommeliers with years of experience in the

food industry, follow the belief that if you “do what you love and love what you do, the rest will fall into place.”

Pigs don’t really fly but the two restaurants soar like their whimsical namesake. Everything here is about family, friends, and great food. Their mantra is “Chef Inspired, Neighborhood Approved.”

The Flying Pig restaurants are members of the Slow Food movement, a way of living and eating. This global, grassroots movement with thousands of members worldwide links the pleasure of food with a commitment to community and the environment.

Thirty percent of the restaurants’ ingredients come from the Brownings’ own garden in Vista. Employees can even work in the garden if they wish. The remainder of ingredients—from fruits, vegetables, and poultry, to greens

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edible San Diego


and eggs—come from local farms to the maximum extent possible. Availability dictates seasonal menu choices. And farms they buy from are listed daily on a chalkboard titled, “Who’s Your Farmer?” Roddy says, “We have good ingredients, good people and a recycle-what-you-can philosophy.” Their formula for success is not only appealing and refreshing, it continues to pack both locations with happy patrons. No surprise the restaurants are popular with the locals and out-of-town business folk alike, who come back again and again. Why? “Because it feels like home,” said a gentleman at the bar. “But, I’ll guarantee the food’s better than home.” Those who come as strangers are guaranteed to leave as friends.

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November-December 2017

Whether ordering small plates or main menu dishes, sharing is commonplace because the food is so good and the portions are plentiful. When entrées are brought to the table, servers bring extra plates.They know items like truffle fries, bacon macn-cheese, beef tartare, Spanish-style octopus, Madeira braised pork belly, applewood-smoked sea bream, and Jidori free-range chicken are going to be enjoyed by everyone at the table.

Soups of the day are made with seasonal produce from the Brownings’ garden or herbs grown in old pots, wheelbarrows, and soda crates. Everything from pasta, pickles, pancetta, and pastries is made in house.

Jovial food lovers excitedly pass items to one another describing them with superlatives like “unbelievable, indescribable, and incredible.”

The wall of the bar in Oceanside was created using salvaged material. Antique chandeliers came from an old home. A hitching post was pulled from a riverbank. Patrons have even donated items.


Redwood on an outside deck was likewise repurposed. Recycled scaffolding was used to build a fence. “We don’t buy things that look old, we use old—the things you’d find in a landfill—because each and every piece has a story to tell.”

Imaginative cuisine at Flying Pig is always on the menu. Executive chef, Mario Moser interviewed for his job in 2011 by cooking a five-course meal for the Brownings in their own home kitchen. Maximum freedom allows him and chef de cuisine Justin Lappies to create new and innovative dishes.

Décor at both restaurants inside and out is made with repurposed materials— dining tables from wood torn from the ceiling during renovation, chairs rescued from old vintage stores and menu covers from 50-year-old record albums. And the kids’ menu was designed by the couple’s daughter at age four.

Flying Pig Pub & Kitchen has rolled out new menu offerings including Lamb Salad, Kale and Apple Salad, and P.E.I. Mussels. The pork burger is a winner.

customers had filled with notes. These witty messages ranged from helpful menu suggestions to funny, inspirational, and sometimes personal messages. One read, “Sit at this hidden table. This is where magic happens. P.S. Order the Brussels sprouts.” The notes remain inside the drawer.

Roddy says one day when moving tables in their Oceanside restaurant, they happened upon a secret drawer in a rustic tree-cut table that enterprising

Walt Disney once said “Whatever you do, do it well.” And from what I’ve seen, they truly are doing it well.


Flying Pig Pub & Kitchen (Oceanside) 626 S. Tremont St. 760-453-2940 Flying Pig Pub & Kitchen (Vista) 230 S. Santa Fe Ave. 760-630-4311 Noreen Kompanik is a freelance travel writer, registered nurse, and San Diego resident. She has a passion for travel, adventure, cooking, food, and wine. You can find her many published stories on her website



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{Day Tripper}

Country & Cowboy Cool:

Meet Ramona

By Cynthia Dial

Photos by Chris Rov Costa

Activewear sponsored by #prAna

Our Equine Community Welcomes You mural by Linda Churchill


oward the end of the ascent from sea level to 1,400 feet, a landscape of boulder-strewn hills carves the path to Ramona’s straight-across-town thoroughfare aptly named Main Street. As the city’s low-key center of action, you’ll know you’ve arrived when San Diego County’s vibe has transformed from flipflop fun to cowboy cool. No longer known for its happenstance location along the road to Julian, this unincorporated, under-the-radar town has come into its own and is known for authenticity. So, follow me through Ramona—the place locals have long loved and the place visitors are beginning to fall in love with.














As the land of wide open spaces and skyscraper-free horizon, Ramona’s heritage aligns with its cowboy roots. Beginning along Main Street, a stop at the Guy B. Woodward Museum, located in an adobe of French Provincial design—the original 1886 Amos Verlaque House—showcases the area’s early Western culture. Fully furnished in period antiques, it gives a peek into the beginnings of Ramona, alongside such original structures as an 1800s jailhouse (in use until 1915), an 1874 cowboy bunkhouse, tack room, and blacksmith shop. edible San Diego



Western Legacy




November-December 2017
















Less than a block away is the Ramona Town Hall, listed on the National Register of Historic Places—a former movie theater, library, bank, and even a basketball court. And among Ramona’s noted locals is the late rodeo legend, Casey Tibbs, whose long-ago Ramona wedding was reportedly attended by one of the most popular Western stars of his era—Roy Rogers.

Maze of Murals To best understand the town’s vivid and varied history, a visit to some of the H.E.A.R.T. Mural Project’s collection of fifteen oversized wall paintings is key. Using the sides of buildings and walls as canvases, the murals commemorate everything Ramona from the July 4, 1914 image of Main Street, to Casey Tibbs, to the town’s long ago Turkey Queen.

Air Apparent Classic Rotors Museum, one of only three in the world, is located at the Ramona Airport. Specializing in helicopters and other rotorcrafts, this hangar full of aircraft includes such specimens as a Russian Mi-2 and a Piasecki HRP-1 (nicknamed the “Flying Banana”), each complemented by videos of these flying machines in action. Lucky Spirit– Charles Lindberg by John and Jeanne Whalen, at the corner of Main and Ninth Street.

Vineyard Grant James tasting room patio

Grapes of Craft A combination of hot days, cool nights, high elevation, and rich soil contribute to an abundance of wineries in Ramona. While known for its Sangiovese, varietals such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Muscat, and more are also grown in Ramona. The wineries are all different, and each one is special. Located on a Ramona back road is Vineyard Grant James, the creation of winemaker

Susanne Sapier. The vineyard is named for Sapier’s son, Grant, and her father, James— both key players on the winery’s team. Conceived approximately a decade ago, it has since been recognized by Travel + Leisure as the nation’s number two winery. Situated along Main Street, winemaker Jennifer Lane is at the helm of Pamo Valley Winery. Known for Bordeaux varietals, it is Ramona’s only winery open daily. Named for a granite edifice that in profile replicates a turtle’s face, Turtle Rock Ridge

Family takes a tour of the Classic Rotors Museum.

November-December 2017

edible San Diego


Scone with strawberry jam and clotted cream paired with imported black tea the The London Bakery.

Vineyard Winery’s sweeping panoramic views accompany each glass of wine. Salerno Winery is both a wine stop and art destination. A reflection of proprietor and art collector, Jaime Chaljon, the vineyard showcases a sculpture garden, bocce ball court, garden chess (played with three foot high pieces), and premier wines.

Food Fun From Mexico to London to local, Ramona serves foods that run the gamut and won’t break the bank. La Cocina, a Ramona tradition since 1981, is the place to go for homemade Mexican. New to the scene is The London Bakery for afternoon tea, scones (made from British owner Joanne Bennett’s 100-year-old family recipe), and the opportunity to take a photo with a Prince William and Kate cardboard cutout. Featured on the Food

Network’s Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives, and recognized for its one-half pound cinnamon bun, is the iconic Ramona Cafe. Upmarket options include Marinade on Main, the town’s first farm-to-table eatery, which promises fresh ingredients and local produce accompanied by local beers and wines. Featuring an impressive menu, a popular entrée is its signature burger. Another top dining choice is D’Carlos, a restaurant known for beef—from prime rib sliders, to steak bites, to a 12 ounce ribeye.

Sum of All Parts “When you live in Ramona, you refer to local places and activities as ‘on the hill’ and those outside of town as ‘down the hill,’” explains Michael Mecurio, a 37-year resident. With acres of vineyards, miles of trails and one-of-a-kind museums—all amidst a

Oak tree and relaxing outdoor area at Vineyard Grant James.

Marinade on Main’s signature burger.

genuine Western background—one might wonder: “Why venture down the hill at all?” For guidance, visit the Chamber of Commerce, 960 Main Street (8:00 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. Monday through Friday) or go to

Around the Calendar Action January and February Hawk Watch April Ramona Open Studios Tour May Ramona Rodeo/Old West Days August Ramona Country Fair September Grape Stomp October Taste of Ramona/Ramona Air Fair & Fly-In December Christmas Tree Lighting Ceremony

D Cynthia Dial is a journalist and admitted travel addict who travels the world in search of a good story. But when she returns home, it’s to Southern California. “I’d love to say I relax when I’m off the road, but in truth I don’t. After all, I live in an area that rivals any international destination,” says Cynthia. Her travels are chronicled on her website


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Preserving Native Kumeyaay Foods

By Vincent Rossi


hen it comes to celebrating traditional cuisines, the descendants of San Diego County’s indigenous people have many centuries worth to draw from.

San Diego County is “one of the oldest continuously inhabited places on earth,” said Kristie Orosco. Orosco, an ethnobotanist and member of the San Pasqual Band of Mission Indians, works as an independent consultant on sustainable resource management. She also teaches classes and workshops on native plants for the San Diego chapter of the California Native Plant Society, the Kumeyaay-Ipai Interpretive Center, and the San Diego Archaeological Society. The oral traditions of San Diego County’s indigenous people, borne out by decades of study by historians, archaeologists, and other physical and social scientists, have shown that Native Americans were living in this region for 10,000 years before the first Europeans—the Spaniards—arrived in 1769. The ancient residents called themselves Kumeyaay, in a language then unwritten but now part of the curriculum at Kumeyaay Community College and other institutions founded by their descendants to preserve their history and culture.


edible San Diego

November-December 2017

Top: Agave-gathering workshop. Bottom: Kristie Orosco.

Orosco’s work to preserve this history and culture has included helping preserve native plants, such as elderberry and prickly pear cactus, that have traditionally served nutritional and medicinal needs for local indigenous people. Native plant gardens can be found at San Pasqual and at other tribal community reservations including Rincon, Pala, and Barona. Members of all these local bands also contributed to building an ethnobotanical garden on the campus of Cal State San Marcos in collaboration with the university’s Anthropology Department. Food and food preparation are integral parts of the indigenous cultural heritage. “Food plays a huge part in the Kumeyaay way of life,” said Orosco. Martha Rodriguez, a member of the San Jose de la Zorra Kumeyaay group affiliated with the Sycuan Cultural Center, conducted a yucca cooking class in 2016 at the Barona Cultural Center and Museum. She and others conduct such classes annually in the county, teaching how to prepare dishes using yucca, acorns, mesquite, and prickly pear cactus, among other traditional native plants. These events have attracted a growing number of non-Native American attendees. This reflects what Orosco called “a growing awareness in the non-native community about the sustainable nature of the native people’s lifestyle.” It’s part of a heritage that Native American people themselves often had to struggle to hold on to. Centuries of overt and covert oppression by encroaching European and American cultures took away much of that ancient connection to the natural world on which indigenous cultures were based.

Above: Preparing roasted agave. Below: Monica Madrigal gathers thistle chia.

“We were no longer celebrating the seasons, caretaking our land, using digging sticks to aerate the soil, pruning plants, or thinning stands of trees,” said Barbara Drake, an educator with the Los Angeles-based Gabrielino-Tongva Band of Indians in a 2016 interview for KCET in Los Angeles. “We were no longer spreading seeds or saving them.” Drake was among the founders of the Chia Café Collective (“CCC”), “a grassroots group of Southern California tribal members and their allies committed to the revitalization of native foods, medicines, culture, and community,” according to the KCET program. For over 20 years, the CCC has promoted classes, workshops, demonstrations and native food celebrations. One such event is an annual agave harvest and feast held at the Malki Museum on the reservation of the Morongo Band of Mission Indians in Banning. This event has helped to reestablish the nutrient-dense agave, historically a staple food for indigenous people. “So many foods like agave were almost forgotten,” Lorene Sisquoc, a member of the Cahuilla/Apache community and CCC cofounder, told KCET, “but now we’re continuing to gather, eat, and celebrate these native foods.” The CCC has published a book, Cooking The Native Way. It is indeed a great cookbook, offering 23 recipes from acorn bread

November-December 2017

edible San Diego


to nopales tortillas to yucca petal hash. But it’s also a concise primer for people seeking to learn more about the cuisine that has sustained indigenous people in this region for thousands of years. The CCC also invites the general public to share in this indigenous heritage, “honoring the ancestors by offering an alternative to the industrialized food chain and all that it represents—the multinational corporate control of seeds, production of genetically modified foods, and the promotion of unsustainable agricultural practices damaging to all species and the earth which sustains us,” as stated on KCET. “The CCC encourages everyone to cultivate native food plants in their gardens or in containers on their decks, porches, and windowsills, and to become active in community gardens.” Deborah Small took that to heart. Small is an artist and ethnobotanist who teaches at Cal State San Marcos. She got involved with the the CCC some 18 years ago, “starting out as a documenter (photography is one of her fields). But she soon started growing her own native plants in the yard of her North County home. Her garden today includes a wall of prickly pear cactus, reflecting part of the CCC’s mission “to reconnect with the land.”


For more information: “Revitalizing Native Foods,” article by Deborah Small for KCET, 11/8/16: . Chia Café Collective, see Deborah Small’s ethnobotany website: Cooking The Native Way, originally published in 2016, will be available to the public in January 2018 from Heyday Books: Go to the website’s “Upcoming” list and you’ll find it available for pre-order. Freelance writer Vincent Rossi has been a contributor to Edible San Diego since 2008. He is the author of three books on San Diego County history and writes a biweekly blog, The San Diego History Seeker. His special interests are history, politics, and culture, with a special appreciation of the interrelationship between culture and food. With his wife Peggy, a professional genealogist, Vincent co-owns StorySeekers, a research and publishing company for family history, memoir, and historical books.

Chia Café Collective Acorn Bread Makes one 8 inch square loaf 1 cup acorn flour* ½ cup cornmeal ½ cup whole wheat flour 1 teaspoon salt 1 tablespoon baking powder ¼ cup honey 1 egg, lightly beaten 1 cup milk

Preheat oven to 350°. In a medium-sized nonreactive bowl, combine the acorn flour, cornmeal, whole wheat flour, salt, and baking powder. In a separate bowl, mix the honey, egg, and milk and add the oil. Combine wet and dry ingredients and stir until all dry ingredients are just moistened. Pour into greased 8 inch square loaf pan. Bake for 20-30 minutes. The bread is done when a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean. When pressed down on the center, the bread should bounce back. * Can be purchased at


edible San Diego

November-December 2017

Photo by Suzanne Emery

3 tablespoons olive oil (or other healthy cooking oil)

Leaching acorn meal.

Help the Food Bank feed families in need this holiday season.

• Donate Online • Host a Food Drive • Volunteer • Host a Virtual Food Drive


Custom cakes and desserts made from scratch with the best ingredients.

Jenny Wenny Cakes By appointment only. 858-676-0760 •




Tasting room open weekends noon to 6pm

Estate Vineyard and Winery • 760-432-8034

November-December 2017

edible San Diego


Fridays are FRESH in La Mesa!


tre e S Stat


We bring the farm to you. • 24th YEAR OF OPERATION • @lmmarket



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Fresh Local Seafood on the docks in Point Loma

1403 Scott Street, San Diego 619-222-8787 38

edible San Diego

November-December 2017

{The Good Earth}

Solidarity Farm Sowing seeds of community-based agro-awareness and sustainability By Lauren Mahan Photos by Daniel Padilla


arming has for millennia been a tradition-based enterprise, where sowing and reaping was all about getting product to market and on the family table. But at Solidarity Farm in Pauma Valley, an ever-evolving business model incorporates a variety of outreach programs designed to solidify the bond between local agriculture and the community at large.

A worker-owned cooperative From the get-go, Solidarity Farm has practiced “ethical farming” which, according to co-owner Ellee Igoe, seeks to balance the needs of humans, animals, plants, and nature in a way that honors each part of the interconnected agro-system. “Far too many farms exploit the labor of immigrant workers,” Igoe points out. As part of its vision, Solidarity Farm became a worker-owned cooperative in 2012. Today it operates a diversified fruit and vegetable farm (over 70 varieties) and sells its produce through CSAs, local retailers, restaurants, and an on-site farm stand. “We have been operating commercially since 2015 and sustain ourselves, albeit modestly, entirely from our farm income,” adds husband and co-owner Nan (Hernan) Cavazos, a native of Mazatlán, Mexico, where he once played professional basketball. “We have strong customer loyalty and an astounding number of opportunities to expand.”

The chickens In 2015, Solidarity Farm received a Kivafunded loan that helped bring a starter group of 300 new laying hens to the farm, which has since grown in number to over 400. “We were also able to purchase a moveable electric fence to protect our ladies from hungry coyotes and to build their mobile chicken coop,” Igoe recalls. “Today, customers are nuts over our eggs! Because eggs from pastured hens not only taste and look better, buyers can feel good that the hens are living outdoors, eating grass and bugs. They are part of our crew for sure, as they move through the fields, adding their fertilizer.” According to Igoe, while exceedingly tasty and popular throughout the year, Solidarity Farm eggs are “especially good in the winter when there is lots of green stuff for them to eat.” Continued on page 41

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☞ 39


edible San Diego

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Left to right: Julia Mwatha, Anthony Duong, Anuradha Ranasinghe, and Ellee Igoe. Mwatha and Ranasinghe are stewards from the Multinational Exchange for Sustainable Agriculture.

The farm school A mother of three whose children attend a charter school in Bonsall, Igoe was more than open to suggestions from other parents that Solidarity Farm might collaborate with the school in developing an agriculture education program, with the school providing the site and Solidarity Farm providing the platform. One fortuitous result of this collaboration was the addition of Kahili Young, a teacher and eco-art-activist, to the farm school team. Although she has no real farming experience per se, Young explains: “The natural world has been my greatest teacher and provides food for body and soul. On my

outdoor adventures of play, wildcrafting, and organic gardening I’ve found appreciation, healing, and expanded perception.” Adds Igoe, “We both love sharing the magic of our farm with young people and families!” An experienced educator, Igoe spent seven years leading backpacking, river rafting and rock climbing expeditions with young people of all ages in Eugene, Oregon. Locally she was lead coordinator at the Pacific Beach Teen Center and at the New Roots Youth Farm at Crawford High School. In addition to the local farm school program, Solidarity Farm participates in the Multinational Exchange for Sustainable Agriculture (MESA) program

Solidarity Farm goats.

through the University of California, Berkeley. “We currently have an exchange student from Sri Lanka,” Igoe explains, “and one from Kenya arriving soon.” Solidarity Farm produce is available at Ocean Beach People’s Organic Food Market, through Good Neighbor Gardens, Harvest to You, and other local CSAs, and at Valley Center and other local farmers’ markets.


Lauren Mahan is a freelance writer with over 30 years’ experience based in Valley Center, North Park, and points south (Baja). She is the Tidbits editor for Edible San Diego and a frequent feature article contributor.

Seeking collaborators Solidarity Farm offers multiple complementary business opportunities to aspiring farmers and food-based entrepreneurs. It is currently accepting proposals from individuals or small groups who are interested in operating an independent small business in collaboration with Solidarity Farm. In addition to a solid brand, loyal customer base, and proven business model, it offers on-site facilities and vehicles, as well as marketing support and product distribution through existing sales channels. In return, it requires a land lease of $2,000 per acre per year, payment of monitored water consumption, liability insurance and state permitting, and adherence to “ethically grown” principles. Solidarity Farm 14909 Pauma Valley Dr., Pauma Valley 760-297-0838

November-December 2017

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November-December 2017

{Edible Reads}

A Farmgirl’s Table Not everyone is fortunate enough to grow up on a farm, but everyone can cook as if they did. This 176-page cookbook was forged for anyone who has the spirit of farm-fresh cooking inside them. It’s for moms and dads who incorporate heirloom tomatoes into the flower garden and the home bakers who are always looking for the perfect baking pan to complete their collection. It’s for the suburban farmer with an oversized plot of land she cultivates and the urbanite who simply grows a few tomatoes and a bit of basil on his back patio. Even if you’re not blessed with a green thumb, these recipes will inspire you to seek out the freshest ingredients at farmers’ markets and vegetable stands. Entice your family and friends with the savory aromas of homemade French-Canadian Beef Stew and homemade Potato Rolls. Or serve a special breakfast of easy-to-make Farmer’s Quiche and Spiced Apple Jam. Jessica Robinson, a New England farmgirl, transplanted to North Carolina, shares heartwarming stories and personal advice along with a bushel of new recipes in her much anticipated second cookbook, A Farmgirl’s Table (Gibbs Smith, April 4, 2017). Everything from using produce from the garden or farmers’ market, stocking a pantry with canned goods, making homemade bread and traditional family recipes, entertaining guests at get-togethers with recipes for Yankee Barbeque, Berry Swirled Pops, Blackberry-Raspberry Lemonade, pasta salads, hearty main courses, hand-crafted pies, Lemon-Blueberry Pound Cake, and more. Beautifully detailed images, captured by Jessica herself will make you want to reach on the page and bite into the homemade pastry she’s created or sip on freshly brewed Peach Sweet Tea. Peach Sweet Tea

Author of the well-reviewed New England Farmgirl, Jessica was raised on a small Connecticut farm where her family raised livestock and grew crops, as well as operated a maple sugar house. Today, Jessica lives on a small farm in Graham, North Carolina, with her husband and two sons. She is the editor, recipe developer, and photographer for her popular blog, Carolina Farmhouse Kitchen. You’ll often find her in her country kitchen whipping up homemade jams, pickles, and confections from locally produced goods.


Text and photos courtesy of Gibbs Smih, Publisher Recipes from A Farmgirl’s Table follow on pages 44 and 45.

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edible San Diego


Farmer’s Quiche On our farm, it always seemed there wasn’t enough time in the day. My mom would make homemade quiche often, because it was quick and used ingredients we had on hand. This quiche was beautiful in one of the vintage pie dishes she had collected over the years.

Cornmeal crust:

Serves 8

1 teaspoon kosher salt

1 medium onion, sliced

2 teaspoons granulated sugar

2 tablespoons butter

5 to 6 tablespoons ice water

2 teaspoons honey

To make the cornmeal crust, place the flour, cornmeal, salt and sugar into a bowl. Stir to combine. Cut in the lard and cold butter using a pastry cutter or two forks. Add the water, a little at a time until the crust holds together when squeezed in your hand. Place the crust into a large zip-style bag and refrigerate for 1 to 2 hours.

2 or 3 heirloom tomatoes, sliced 1½ cups fresh spinach 4 slices cooked bacon, chopped 3 to 4 slices honey ham, chopped 1 cup grated cheddar or pizza blend cheese 1 cup whole milk 1 cup heavy cream 5 large eggs Salt and pepper to taste 1 teaspoon garlic powder


edible San Diego

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1½ cups all-purpose flour 1½ cups yellow cornmeal ⅔ cup lard 4 tablespoons unsalted butter, cold

To make the quiche, melt butter in a sauté pan over low to medium heat. Add the onion to the pan, stirring occasionally with a wooden spoon. Cook over low to medium heat for about 15 minutes. Add honey and sprinkle with

salt and pepper to taste. Once cooked, turn off heat and set aside. Press the cornmeal crust into a 10-inch cast-iron skillet with your hands. Gently poke holes in the bottom with a fork. Bake in a preheated 425° oven for 12 minutes. Let cool for 10 minutes. Place the spinach, bacon, ham, cheese and caramelized onion into the cornmeal crust. Set aside. In a large bowl, combine the milk and cream. Add the eggs, salt, pepper, and garlic powder and beat well with a fork. Pour the mixture into the skillet. Gently place the heirloom tomato slices in a circular pattern on the top of the quiche. Place the quiche in a preheated 375° oven for about 60 minutes or until the eggs are set and the top is golden brown. Let cool for 15–20 minutes before slicing.

Mixed Berry Galettes These rustic free-form pies are perfect for a simple dessert. Top them with vanilla ice cream and freshly whipped cream if you would like. For a very flaky crust, be sure to not overwork the dough. Serves 6 to 8 Crust:

In a large bowl, add the flour, salt, and sugar. Using a pastry cutter or two forks, cut in the butter and cream cheese until you have pea-size pieces. Add a little cold water at a time until you can gently squeeze the mixture together with your hands. Place the dough in a large zip-style bag and refrigerate for 2 to 3 hours or overnight.

2 cups all-purpose flour 1 teaspoon kosher salt

In a large bowl, combine the berries, lemon juice, sugar, and tapioca. Stir gently with a spoon and set aside.

1 tablespoon granulated sugar ½ cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, cold

Lightly dust a work surface with flour and roll out the dough into ¼-inch thick rounds. Place rounds onto a parchment lined half sheet pan. Spoon the fruit mixture evenly onto the center of each pastry. Fold up edges, crimping gently as you go. The berry filling will be visible. Brush with egg wash. Bake in a preheated 400° oven for about 25 to 30 minutes or until nicely golden brown and fruit is bubbly. Let cool slightly, then serve topped with vanilla ice cream and whipped cream.

4 ounces cream cheese, cold Ice water Egg wash for crust: 1 egg ½ cup heavy cream Lightly beat egg and cream together. Berry mixture: 1 cup blueberries 1 cup raspberries 1 cup strawberries, sliced ¾ cup granulated sugar 2 tablespoons lemon juice 3 tablespoons instant tapioca

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edible San Diego


{Local Marketplace}


A unique farm-to-table dining experience at The Lodge at Torrey Pines. This intimate communal meal is on the terrace overlooking the 18th hole of the Torrey Pines Golf Course. Executive Chef Jeff Jackson and Chef de Cuisine Kelli Crosson present dishes carefully paired with wines. • 858-777-6635 •


Learn to create Italian cuisine from Chefs Accursio and Brian through this intimate, hands-on experience in Solare’s commercial kitchen, Every other Saturday at 10am. Italian style coffee and pastry served, and Italian wine for students interested in “cooking with wine.” Class size limited to 10. $75 • 619-270-9670


A true European style market

Jan 21-27. Savor the diverse culinary flavors of over 30 of Escondido’s fantastic restaurants during the fifth annual Dine Out Escondido! event held every January. Whether you’re looking for craft beer pairings, local farm-to-fork delights, chef-owned culinary experiences, international cuisine, high tea or home cooking, Escondido’s restaurants have something for everyone. •


Nov 4, Dec 9. Saturdays at the Ranch, one day spa and culinary adventures that “create a taste of the peace and tranquility in a beautiful, natural setting that everyone craves and needs.” Price includes 50 minute massage. Only about an hour from San Diego. • 877-440-7778 •


Del Rayo Village Center 16079 San Dieguito Rd. Rancho Santa Fe • 619-743-4263 Sundays, 9:30am –2:00pm Come t o


Stay for


Saturday, Nov 18, 9:30am – 2pm. FREE healthy soil building activities, speakers, tours, botanist walks, family activities, composting, cooking demos, food & drink ($), dirt and fun! Bike and picnic friendly. 15 minutes by fwy from Downtown San Diego. •


Veteran owned and operated farm in National City producing organically grown, heirloom fruits, vegetables and herbs. Design your own box, buy a farmshare, and lots more options. 1430 E 24th St. National City, 91950 • • 858-848-6914 •


Find eveything you need here, including meat. Sponsored by the Escondido Arts Partnership. Tues 2:30-6pm year round on Grand Ave. between Juniper and Kalmia. • 760-480-4101 •


Delivers organic produce to your door from family farms in Capay and San Diego and Imperial Counties, weekly, biweekly, every third or fourth week deliveries. No seasonal commitment required. Customize your box. $15 off first box. Sign up for home delivery with promo code “eathealthy.” contactus@ • • 800-796-6009 •

Sunday Market SundayFarmers Farmers Sunday Farmers Market Market unday Farmers Market at the Valley Fort at Fort at the the Valley Valley Fort at the Valley Fort 3757 South Mission Road Fallbrook CA 92028

3757 South Mission Rd. • Fallbrook 3757 South Mission Road Fallbrook CA 92028CA

Open Everyevery Sunday 10am to 3pm Open Sunday Open Every Sunday 10am 10 am to 3pmto 3pm


3757 SouthforMission Road Fallbrook CA 92028Sunday, 9-1 at La Jolla Elementary school on Girard. A great more info email: community success story! All proceeds benefit the school. Fresh vendor info: or 760-390-9726 for more info email: produce, food court, local artisans and entertainment. 7335 Follow us on Facebook: Valley Fort Sunday Farmers Market contact Denise vendor info: Vendors or 760-390-9726 Girard Ave. at Genter. • 858-454-1699 •

Open Every Sunday 10am to 3pm for more info 951-204-8259 email: us on Facebook: Valley Fort Sunday Farmers Market vendor info: or 760-390-9726

Valley Fort Sunday Farmers Market

Follow us on Facebook: Valley Fort Sunday Farmers Market


edible San Diego

November-December 2017

Join us in thanking these advertisers for their local and sustainable ethic by supporting them with your business. LA MESA VILLAGE FARMERS’ MARKET

Friday, 3-6pm fall/winter, 3-7pm spring/summer. Over 50 vendors in La Mesa Village, corner of Spring St. and University • • 619-249-9395 •


Sunday, 10-2 at Paul Ecke Central School, 185 Union St. off Vulcan in Leucadia. A big weekend farmers market with just about everything. Knife sharpening often. • 858-272-7054 •


Eat well, save time and get more out of your day. Lucky Bolt makes it easy and affordable to eat well while you’re busy at work. Order by 10:30am and lunch arrives between 11:30am and 12:30pm. A different menu each day using produce from local, sustainable farms. • •


Since 2011 in San Pasqual Valley, Sun 10:30am-3:30pm year round, rain or shine. Fresh, locally grown produce, pastured eggs, raw honey, plants, ready-to-eat & take home foods. 100% San Diego County producers. A traditional, old fashioned farmers’ market. Supports the preservation & restoration of Sikes Adobe Historic Farmstead. EBT/credit cards. I-15 at Via Rancho Pkwy, Escondido • 858-735-5311 •


Thur, 9am-1pm, rain or shine at 300 No. Coast Hwy. Certified fresh, locally grown fruits, veggies and flowers, hot food, baked goods and crafts. • • 619-249-9395 •


Sun 9:30am–2pm. Lovely morning market in the Fairbanks Ranch area, modeled on the town square concept. Local farmers, artisanal food, fresh flowers, crafters, live music, kids booth and more! 16079 San Dieguito Rd. Rancho Santa Fe 92067 • 619-743-4263 •


Small scale beekeeping and honey production with beehives placed on small family farms in northern San Diego County. Not-so-ordinary, locally grown produce and plants from a small, Rancho Penasquitos backyard family farm. Exclusive producer of “PQ Backyard Honey.” Find RFB in the Certified Producers sections of select local farmers markets. •


Robust farmers’ markets with great selections at Pacific Beach on Bayard btwn Grand & Garnet (Tue, 2-7); North Park Thursday at No. Park Way & 30th, (Thu, 3-7:30); and Little Italy Mercato, Cedar St. (Sat, 8-2). All accept EBT. PB and NP also accept WIC. Farmers market vendor training, Vendor 101 and 102. • 619-233-3901 •


Freshly picked organic and sustainably sourced produce, much of it local. Great iPhone and Android app with easy-to-use database of over 1200 produce items. Wholesale and retail. Farmers’ Market Bag & Box options. 1929 Hancock Street #150, San Diego • 619-295-3172 •


Convenient midweek market. Wed, 3-6pm, fall/winter, 3-7 spring/summer. Over 50 vendors in Carlsbad Village east of the railroad tracks. • • 858-272-7054 •


elegance to your home, office or special occasion and remind you that life is indeed beautiful. Custom blended fragrances, nontoxic wicks, sustainable packaging. Buy online and at Little Italy Mercato Farmers Market. • 619-743-1792 •


Order your holiday baked goods now from this family owned and operated breakfast café and bakery built around great food, family and community. Fresh baked croissants, bread and pastries. Breakfasts made with real food from scratch. Tea, coffee, espresso. Open 7 – 2 daily. 2977 Upas St. San Diego, 92104 • 619-546-5609 •

Sun from 10am to 3pm at the Valley Fort, 3757 S. Mission Road, Fallbrook. Great atmosphere, vendors and music. • skippaula@ • 951-695-0045 •


Experience the art of fine dining in an elegant timbered room overlooking the 18th hole of the Torrey Pines Golf Course. Market driven and seasonal cuisine. For a really special experience, reserve a seat at the Artisan Table on Thursday nights. 11480 N. Torrey Pines Rd. • 858-453-4420 •


Great tasting hamburgers made from sustainably raised, grass fed beef and other pastured meats. Perfect for health and environmentally conscious diners, vegetarians and salad lovers. Nine locations in San Diego County: Carlsbad, Coronado, Del Mar, Del Sur, Gaslamp, Hillcrest, Kensington, La Jolla and Little Italy. •


Fresh, natural, organic & local beverages Visit us at one of our stores.


Miramar: 8680 Miralani Dr.,Suite 135 Mon-Fri 8am-3pm Mission Beach: 3733 Mission Blvd. Every day 8am-3pm

EscoGelato’s luscious, super creamy gelato is full of intense flavor and made fresh daily with the highest quality ingredients including fruit sourced from local farmers at the Escondido Farmers Market. 122 South Kalmia, Escondido, 92025 • 760-745-6500 •



240.246.5126 |

With 30 years in business, Flour Power is well-known and respected in San Diego. They’ve partnered with hundreds of local hotels, restaurants and private venues, and can create the ideal cake for every occasion. From the most elaborate wedding experience to a cozy, romantic backyard celebration, Flour Power has a cake to match. 2389 Fletcher Pkwy, El Cajon • 619-697-6575 •


Perennial “best sushi” pick of many, Harney also has the most aggressive sustainability program of all Southern California restaurants. Original Old Town location: 3964 Harney Street, San Diego • 619-295-3272; Oceanside: 301 Mission Avenue • 760-967-1820 •

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Kitchen Need A Safe Facelift?



Brian Malarkey created one of San Diego’s most stylish, sophisticated and highly praised restaurants. Check out the Accolades page on the website. 2210 Kettner Blvd. in Little Italy. • 619-955-8495 •

Loving your new copper core cookware but not so much your kitchen walls? Time to spruce up with Safecoat. We are the healthy paint choice and have been for 30 years.

Custom cakes and desserts that taste as good on the inside as they look on the outside. Made from scratch with the best ingredients. By appointment only (no cakes on site). 12265 World Trade Dr. Ste. D 92128 • 619-356-0536 •



The only 7-day-a-week marketplace showcasing the region’s agricultural bounty and international tastes. Explore the exciting variety of culinary creations, organic produce, meats, seafood, cheese, fine wine, spitits and craft beer from more than two dozen artisan vendors. Open 11am-7pm (minimum). 2820 Historic Decatur Rd. 92106 •

Fresh juices, smoothies, shots and Acai bowls served from a food truck modified to run on propane and a store at 3733 Mission Blvd. San Diego 92109, and 8680 Miralani Dr. Ste. 135 San Diego 92126. Ingredients sourced from local farmers’ markets, and all waste is recycled. • 240-246-5126 •


Handcrafted botanical skin products lovingly created with healing plant ingredients and packaged in old fashioned amber glass. Cleansers, toners, lotions, creams, masks, scrubs and


262 E. Grand Ave, Escondido

Casual waterfront dining in the historic fishing neighborhood of Point Loma, serving up locally caught seafood with a view of the bay and the San Diego sportfishing fleet. 1403 Scott Street, San Diego • 619-222-8787 • Chef Steven Riemer (formerly Exec. Sous Chef at A.R. Valentien) interprets classic dishes highlighting the purity and flavors of local produce, served in a beautiful bayside setting. Brkfst, lunch, dinner & Sunday Brunch. 3999 Mission Blvd. San Diego 92109 • 858-488-1081 •

San Diego Metro

Colorama Paint 619.297.4421 La Jolla

Meanley & Sons Hardware 858.454.6101


Safecoat - Building A Healthier World


San Diego Magazine 2016 Readers’ Choice for Best Chef (Accursio Lota) & Readers’ and Critics’ Choice for Best Italian Restaurant! Locally sourced ingredients, fresh made pasta, organic produce, sustainably caught fish and hormone-free meat. Great wine list, craft cocktails and beers. Happy hour Tues-Sun, Tues wine specials, Live jazz Thurs. 2820 Roosevelt Rd., Liberty Station, Point Loma • 619-270-9670 •


Light up your holidays with Shanon Warfield’s hand crafted, long-lasting, beautifully scented soy wax candles. They bring

Tuesday 2:30 - 6 Operated by the Escondido Arts Partnership

November-December 2017

edible San Diego


{Local Marketplace} face oils. All products 100% free of artificial fragrance oils. •


Made from naturally flavorful certified organic cream from their own cows without any gums, thickeners, additives, artificial ingredients or coloring agents, the true taste comes shining through in every creamy bite. •


Your organic headquarters for plant food & nutrients, amendments & mulch, seed & sod, veggies & flowers, garden tools, water storage, irrigation & vineyard supplies, bird feeders & seed, pest & weed control and power tools. A growing database of articles, tips and how-tos on the website. Encinitas, Fallbrook, Escondido and Valley Center. •


Family owned and operated since 1946. Find a coupon on page 23. Organic and natural products for your edible garden, trees, shrubs, flowers, succulents and everything you need for their care. Great selection of home canning supplies. 1019 San Marcos Blvd. off the 79 fwy near Via Vera Cruz • 760-744-3822 •


Family owned and operated. Stocks the most non-GMO and organic poultry feed choices in San Diego County, and canning supplies, horse feed and tack, livestock, pet food and supplies, hardware, clothing and more. 675 W. Grand Av. Escondido • 760-746-7816; 2762 S. Mission Rd. Fallbrook • 760-728-1150. •


Topsoil (specially blended for growing in San Diego), compost and mulch, ready to use or custom blended to your specifications. OMRI listed organic. Biosolids NEVER used. 16111 Old Milky Way, San Diego 92027 • 760-644-3404 (sales); 760-746-4769 (billing & dispatch)•



Southern California’s only whole animal butchery (nothing goes to waste) featuring sustainably raised, hormone and anitbiotic free beef, lamb, pork and chicken. Open Tue-Sat, 11am-7pm; Sun,11am-5pm. 2855 El Cajon Blvd. Suite 1, San Diego 92104 • 619-564-8976 •


Innovator in paint and building products with reduced toxicity to preserve indoor air quality with a complete line of chemically responsible, non-polluting paint and building products that meet the highest performance standards. • 619-239-0321 x110 •


On the westernmost boundary of Del Sur, Artesian Estates offers 39 executive-style, one- and two-story residences up to 5,687 square feet with unique architectural details and options, and exceptional craftsmanship by CalAtlantic Homes. A VIP list of interested homebuyers is forming now. For information and to register, visit • 949-751-8951


Dominick Fiume, Real Estate Broker, provides exceptional customer service with specialized knowledge of urban San Diego. CalBRE No. 01017892 1228 University Ave. Ste. 200 San Diego 92103 • 619-543-9500


California’s only fully accredited naturopathic medical school offers degrees in Nutrition and Culinary Arts, and a Master of Science in Nutrition for Wellness. Now offering cooking classes! Learn more at Experience Bastyr, Nov 4. 4106 Sorrento Valley Blvd., San Diego, CA 92121 • 858-246-9700 •


Educating the next generation of farmers, gardeners and homesteaders. See class schedule on website. Check calendar for Monthly Open House Potluck, 4-9pm, donations accepted, $5 to partcipate, $3/slice of pizza from their outdoor pizza oven! Tours, field trips and venue rental. Visit their blog; • •

Celebrating 40 years in business, this bustling wholesale and retail seafood market in a working warehouse offers fresh sustainably harvested seafood, much of it from local waters. Fri and Sat cooking demos. Mon-Tue, 8-3; Wed-Sun, 8-5. 5202 Lovelock St., San Diego • 619-297-9797 •




NEW, BIGGER STORE! Family owned and operated natural food market with local, organic produce, raw milk, grass-fed meats, vitamins, supplements, specialty foods and more. Open MondayFriday, 8am-7:30pm, Saturday, 8-6 and Sunday, 10-6. 325 6th St. Ramona • 760-787-5987 •

MEAT Sustainably raised USDA inspected meats by the cut and CSA. Beef, pork and lamb sides & cuts, chicken, turkey, duck, rabbit, quail, pheasant & bison. Free range eggs. No hormones, steroids, incremental antibiotics, GMO/soy. Find at SD, Riverside and Orange County farmers’ markets, or at farm by appointment. Farm tours/internships available. • •

edible San Diego


Escape from life’s stress and distractions on a healthy vacation that empowers your true self through integrative wellness. Guests of all ages and fitness levels enjoy exciting, energetic fitness options, delicious organic cuisine and pure fun and relaxation in a tranquil setting in the shadow of Baja California’s mystical Mt. Kuchumaa. • 877-440-7778 •





November-December 2017

Escondido may mean “hidden,” but it’s no secret there’s a lot going on there. Just 30 miles northeast of downtown San Diego and 20 minutes from the coast, Escondido is home to beautiful wineries, craft breweries, unique arts and theatre, delicious culinary experiences, a charming and historic downtown, and it has a beautiful climate. Visit Escondido! •


Photography that reveals the essence and nature of a brand, business, restaurant or place, and that translates the subject into a bright, inspiring and captivating vision, one frame at a time. • 858-699-8267 •


Serving 63,000 children, families and seniors a week, FSD leads the fight against hunger in our region by distributing fresh, nutritious food to those in need. Help build a hunger-free, healthy community by making a gift. 95% of your donation directly funds hunger relief programs in San Diego County. • 858-452-3663 •


The Jacobs & Cushman San Diego Food Bank is the largest hunger relief organization in San Diego County where an estimated 420,000 people are food insecure. Last year the food bank distributed 22 million pounds of food, serving, on average, 370,000 people per month. Get invloved with the Holiday Food Drive. •


“Almost Heaven.” Specializing in handcrafted red, white and rose wines, and their newest addition, Kickass Fruit wines. They also offer gourmet grape and fruit jellies, handcrafted quilts, barrel stave crosses, cork items and vineyard paintings. Open Sat & Sun, 12-6. 3044 Colina Verde Ln. Jamul , 91935 • 619-251-1818 •


100% estate grown Zinfandel, Sangiovese, Cabernet Franc and Albarino. Picnic on the patio overlooking the vines or warm up by the fireplace this winter inside the rustic tasting room. Open Sat & Sun 11-5pm. 910 Gem Lane, Ramona, 92065 • 760-788-0059 •


Dedicated to growing Rhone grape varietals and vinifying and blending them in traditional and innovative ways. Available for private events. Open for tastings Sat & Sun, 12-6pm. 15404 Highland Valley Rd., Escondido, 92025 • 760-432-8034 •


Full bodied red wines served from a small, family-run outdoor tasting patio overlooking the vineyard. Estate grown Syrah, Petite Sirah, Cabernet Sauvignon and blends showcase the quality of the RVAVA. Open Sat & Sun, 11-5. 26502 Hwy 78, Ramona • 760-788-6800 •


Features award winning red wines made from 100% Ramona Valley American Vitacultural Area (AVA) grapes, mostly estate grown. Try their flagship Estate Cabernet Franc. Open most Saturdays and Sundays, 11-5, and by appointment. Call ahead to allow them to give you good directions and to confirm availability. • 760-788-4818 •

FARMERS’ MARKETS MONDAY Escondido—Welk Resort # 8860 Lawrence Welk Dr. 3–7 pm, year round 760-651-3630

Seeds @ City Urban Farm 16th & C Sts., San Diego City College 10:30 – 12:30 am (Sept to June)

TUESDAY Coronado 1st St. & B Ave., Ferry Landing 2:30–6 pm 760-741-3763

Escondido * Heritage Garden Park Juniper btwn Grand & Valley Pkwy 2:30–6 pm year round 760-480-4101

Mira Mesa * 10510 Reagan Rd. 2:30–7 pm (3–6 pm fall-winter) 858-272-7054

Otay Ranch—Chula Vista 2015 Birch Rd. and Eastlake Blvd. 4–8 pm year round 619-279-0032

Pacific Beach Tuesday *#

People’s Produce Night Market *# 1655 Euclid Ave. 5–8 pm 619-262-2022

Santee *#

Sleeves Up Horton Plaza

Poway *

199 Horton Plaza 10 am –2 pm 619-481-4959

Old Poway Park 14134 Midland Rd. at Temple 8 am–1 pm 619-249-9395

Valley Center

Carlton Hills Blvd. & Mast Blvd. 3–7 pm (winter 2:30–6:30 pm) 619-449-8427

28246 Lilac Rd. 3–7 pm vccountryfarmersmarket@gmail. com

Serra Mesa #


3333 Sandrock Rd. 3–7 pm 619-795-3363

State Street in Carlsbad Village State St. & Carlsbad Village Dr. 3–7 pm (3–6 fall-winter) 858-272-7054

Temecula - Promenade * 40820 Winchester Rd. by Macy’s 9 am–1 pm 760-728-7343

THURSDAY Clairemont # 3015 Clairemont Dr. 3–7 pm 619-795-3363

El Cajon #

Borrego Springs

Horton Plaza #

Temecula – Old Town *

225 Broadway Circle 11 am – 2 pm 619-795-3363

Imperial Beach *# Seacoast Dr. at Pier Plaza Oct-Mar, 12–7 pm; Apr-Sep, 12–7:30 pm

WEDNESDAY Encinitas Station Corner of E St. & Vulcan 5–8 pm, May-Sept 4–7 pm, Oct-Apr 760-651-3630

Ocean Beach 4900 block of Newport Ave. 4–7 pm (summer 4–8 pm) 619-279-0032

Oceanside Morning * Pier View Way & Coast Hwy. 101 9 am–1 pm 619-249-9395

SDSU Campanile Walkway btw Hepner Hall & Love Library 10 am –3 pm (Sept to June)

13330 Paseo del Verano Norte 9 am–1 pm 760-500-1709

City Heights *!# On Wightman St. btw Fairmount & 43rd St. 9 am–1 pm 760-504-4363

Del Mar Upper Shores Park 225 9th Street 1–4 pm 858-465-0013

Little Italy Mercato #* W. Cedar St. (Kettner to Front St.) 8 am–2 pm 619-233-3901

Pacific Beach 4150 Mission Blvd. 8 am–noon 760-741-3763

12655 Sunset Dr. Escondido 10:30 am–3:30 pm year round 858-735-5311

Rancho Santa Fe Del Rayo Village 16079 San Dieguito Rd. 9:30 am–2 pm 619-743-4263

Santa Ysabel 21887 Washington St. Hwy 78 and 79 12pm–4 pm 760-782-9202

Solana Beach 410 to 444 South Cedros Ave. 12–5 pm 858-755-0444

Valley Fort - Fallbrook 3757 South Mission Rd., Fallbrook 10 am –3 pm 951-695-0045

SUNDAY Lewis Middle School 5170 GreenBrier Ave. 10 am – 2 pm 858-568-6291, 619-865-6574


North Park Way & 30th Street 3–7:30 pm year round 619-233-3901

325 Melrose Dr. South of Hwy 78 8 am–1 pm 760-945-7425

Allied Gardens Sunday

Linda Vista *#

North Park Thursday *#

Vista *#

Corner of Spring St. & University 2–6 pm year round 619-249-9395

UCSD Town Square

32115 Temecula Pkwy 9 am–1 pm 760-728-7343

Sixth & Front St. Old Town 8 am–12:30 pm 760-728-7343

La Mesa Village *

Rancho Bernardo Winery

Vail Headquarters *

Scripps Ranch

Christmas Circle Comm. Park 7 am–noon (late October–May) 760-767-5555

Prescott Promenade on East Main Btw Magnolia & Claydelle Aves. 3–7 pm, year round 619-641-7510 x-277 6900 Linda Vista Rd. 3–7 pm (2–6 winter hours) 760-504-4363

9400 Fairgrove Lane & Salmon River Rd. 9 am–1 pm 858-484-8788 10380 Spring Canyon Rd. & Scripps Poway Parkway 9 am–1:30 pm 858-586-7933

Bayard & Garnet 2–7:30 pm (2–7 pm fall-winter) 619-233-3901 UCSD Campus, Town Square 10 am–2 pm (Sept to June) 858-534-4248

Rancho Penasquitos YMCA

North San Diego / Sikes Adobe #

Gaslamp San Diego 400 block of Third Ave. 9 am–1 pm 619-279-0032

Hillcrest * 3960 Normal & Lincoln Sts. 9 am–2 pm 619-237-1632

La Jolla Open Aire Girard Ave. & Genter 9 am–2 pm 858-454-1699

Leucadia * 185 Union St. & Vulcan St. 10 am–2 pm 858-272-7054

Murrieta * Village Walk Plaza I-15, exit west on Calif. Oaks/ Kalmia 9 am–1 pm 760-728-7343

*M  arket vendors accept WIC (Women, Infants, Children Farmers’ Market checks) # Market vendors accept EBT (Electronic Benefit Transfer) ! Currently only City Heights accepts WIC Farmers’ Market Checks and the WIC Fruit and Vegetable Checks. All San Diego County markets listed except SDSU, Seeds @ City, and Valley Fort Sunday are certified by the County Agricultural Commissioner. Visit and click on “Farmers’ Markets” for more complete information and links to farmers’ market websites.

ESD 44 November-December 2017  
ESD 44 November-December 2017