EAT. DRINK. READ. THINK.
Raised With Care®
All natural pork, beef and lamb raised sustainably and humanely by a community of more than 600 independent family farmers and ranchers to produce the highest quality meat.
100% Certified Humane ®
No antibiotics or added hormones—EVER
No crates—EVER
Raised outdoors and in deeply bedded pens
100% vegetarian feeds
“It is not just the Great Works of mankind that make a culture. It is the daily things, like what people eat
―LAURIE COLWIN
Herbs: Chives & Chive Blossoms by Marissa DeGroot and Recipe by Christy McKenzie
Above: A slice of parsnip cake (page 12) was perfect after a trip to the library to find the books that inspired Jesse Raub's article (page 16). Photo by Sunny Frantz.
Cover: Spongy moss, birch bark and mushrooms—the perfect spring specimens. Photo by Sunny Frantz.
A glance at my bedside table reveals a lot about me—a petite shelf crammed with yet-to-be-read magazines, more dog hair than I’d care to admit and a stack of books piled so high they nearly eclipse the neighboring lamp. Browsing the titles of this towering library also provides a glimpse into how this issue’s theme, Food & Fiction, came to be. Wedged between a copy of Robin Wall Kimmerer’s Braiding Sweetgrass and The Third Plate by Dan Barber is Michelle Wildgen’s Wine People and Bread and Butter Below them is Leaning Toward Light: Poems for Gardens & the Hands that Tend Them. Topping the stack is my daughter’s Disney Princess cookbook.
To me, the stories of our food system and communities are best told through a combination of fiction and nonfiction, through deep analytical dives and sweeping poetry. Fiction, in particular, has a way of sharing nuanced messages in a package that stays with us long after we turn the last page. Some of my earliest literary favorites were, no surprise, centered around food and have left a lasting impact. Tomie dePaola’s Strega Nona teaches life lessons through making pasta and growing vegetables, while the chocolate cake eating punishment in Roald Dahl’s Matilda has left me, to this day, passing on cake.
As an adult, I have been drawn to works of fiction and fantasy, fascinated by how, even on distant planets or in alternate dimensions, food often plays a central role in telling us about a place and its people. The same is true of fiction taking place on our own planet, like the works of Michelle Wildgen, which have helped me understand how food can be a literary vehicle to understanding a vast range of emotions and experiences (page 6).
But beyond the books, diving into this spring’s issue has opened a world rich with intersections between fiction and our local food system. Mushroom literature can often read more like science fiction—inspiring this issue’s Cook at Home recipes (page 29)—and the ability for Wisconsin farms to grow vegetables even in the depths of winter through season extension technology (page 25) would have sounded like fairy tales not so long ago.
So as we emerge from our winter reading nooks into a Wisconsin beginning to blossom, I hope you’ll let your imagination run a little wild. Find some culinary inspiration from a favorite novel or discover a new favorite spot to grab a book and a beverage. However you celebrate spring, we hope it’s filled with great reads and even better bites!
Cheers,
Marissa DeGroot, Managing Editor
If you're looking to curl up with a good book and cozy dish, check out this recipe for braised leek gratin by chef Kyle Julius, which can be found exclusively at ediblemadison.com
Visit ediblemadison.com/recipes/braised-leek-gratin
MARISSA DEGROOT
Marissa feels fortunate to be a part of our local food system as the managing editor of Edible Madison as well as working at Vitruvian Farms, her husband Tommy's organic vegetable and mushroom farm. She loves raising their daughter, Ollie, and their team of fur babies on the farm in McFarland.
SUNNY FRANTZ
Sunny is an editorial and commercial photographer with a studio on the west side of Madison where she lives with her husband, their two kids and a tiny dog. She specializes in food and product photography and loves the opportunity it gives her to connect with the many wonderful businesses and entrepreneurs in Madison.
TRACY HARRIS
Tracy is a graphic designer and photographer from Madison. A polymath at heart, she dabbles in various arenas of makery including cooking and baking, sewing and knitting, painting and collage, and has a soft spot in her heart for film photography. When she’s not busy making things, she enjoys travel, good food and drinks, gardening and live music.
EMILY KAUFFMAN
Emily considers herself a forever learner. Whether it be through writing or food, hospitality or flowers, she is continually looking for new avenues to explore what care looks like in the world. Emily delights in watching things grow, pairing cottage cheese with apple butter and creating congenial spaces for gathering.
ERICA KRUG
Erica is a freelance writer from Madison. In addition to writing and helping to run youth writing summer camps, she also works for Rooted, a local nonprofit, where she supports statewide farm-to-school efforts. Erica loves gardening, swimming in cold lakes and playing Yahtzee.
MANAGING EDITOR
Marissa DeGroot
PUBLISHER
Christy McKenzie
BUSINESS DIRECTOR
Christy McKenzie
SALES DIRECTOR
Lauren Rudersdorf
LAYOUT & PRODUCTION
Nicole Welch
COPY EDITOR
Andrea Debbink
CULINARY ADVISOR
Christy McKenzie
SOCIAL & DIGITAL PRODUCER
Lauren Rudersdorf
ADVERTISING & SPONSORSHIPS
Lauren Rudersdorf laurenr@ediblemadison.com
DRIFTLESS REGIONAL SALES MANAGER
Kristen Wagner kristen@ediblemadison.com
CONTACT US
Edible Madison 4313 Somerset Lane Madison, WI 53711 hello@ediblemadison.com
SUBSCRIPTIONS
LAURA POE MATHES
Laura is a registered dietitian focused on using real foods and herbs to help heal the gut. She is the creator of the Rest, Digest and Heal online course and community, and teaches traditional cooking and fermentation classes around the region. Laura lives in the Driftless area with her husband and kiddos where they homestead and play in the river as much as possible. Originally from Missouri, she now understands why cheese curds are a thing.
CHRISTY MCKENZIE
Christy is the owner of Pasture and Plenty—a specialty market and deli, demonstration kitchen, and meal kit pick-up and delivery service. P&P gives the community access to healthy, locally sourced meals and foods that make eating well and eating local easier every day. She works to create and connect community around issues of food equity, access and agency. She is the publisher of Edible Madison and a sometimes writer.
JESSE RAUB
Jesse is a writer for Serious Eats, a former coffee professional and an amateur bread baker. He lives in Madison and spends his free time attempting fussy dough-based recipes along with walking his dog.
Subscriptions are available beginning at $35 annually. Learn more at ediblemadison.com/subscribe
We want to hear your comments and ideas. To write to the editor, use the mailing address above or email hello@ediblemadison.com
Edible Madison is published quarterly by Forager Publishing, LLC. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be used without written permission by the publisher. ©2025
Every effort is made to avoid errors, misspellings and omissions. If, however, an error comes to your attention, please accept our sincere apologies and notify us. Thank you.
VISIT US ONLINE AT EDIBLEMADISON.COM
Keep up with us between issues
LAUREN RUDERSDORF
Lauren is a grant writer, recipe developer and freelance marketing consultant who advocates for local producers and cooking with the seasons. Her love of good food began in Madison at the Dane County Farmers Market and deepened on the organic CSA vegetable farm she ran with her husband for nearly a decade. Now, life looks different with a big garden and two sweet kiddos to care for instead of the farm, but it's no less delicious.
NICOLE WELCH
Nicole is a graphic designer, photographer and artist from Madison. Her favorite things include off-trail hiking with her husband, Tyler, binging NYT Cooking videos and being a home chef, reading plenty of books and playing Dungeons and Dragons with her stepsons. She is also a cofounder of New Fashioned Sobriety, an alcohol-free community based in Madison which hosts monthly meetups and events. She aspires to someday photograph and design a cookbook for someone.
MICHELLE WILDGEN
Michelle Wildgen is the author of four novels, most recently Wine People. Her work has appeared in The New York Times Book Review and "Modern Love" columns, O, the Oprah Magazine, Best American Food Writing, Poets & Writers, RealSimple.com, Salon, and many other publications and anthologies. She is a cofounder of the Madison Writers' Studio and a writer-in-residence at the Wisconsin Institute for Discovery.
By Marissa DeGroot
Food & Fiction
WITH MICHELLE WILDGEN
When local author Michelle Wildgen released her fourth novel Wine People in 2023, it was her second book set (in part) in Madison and also her second centered around the food and beverage industry—with Bread and Butter set behind the scenes in a restaurant and But Not for Long chronicling the gentle creep of the apocalypse in Madison.
Wildgen’s works of fiction are often inspired by her nearly 25 years living in the isthmus-bound city as well as three years post-college working at L’Etoile—an experience that inspired Wine People.
Wildgen is also the author of the novel You’re Not You, which was made into a film with Hilary Swank, and editor of the food writing anthology Food & Booze. She is a co-founder of the Madison Writers’ Studio and is currently the writer-in-residence at the Wisconsin Institute for Discovery at the University of Wisconsin–Madison.
Wildgen recently spoke with Edible Madison about the intersections of food and fiction and how Wisconsin’s food and beverage scene has influenced her work.
Why does food matter in fiction?
It [food] can accomplish almost anything from a writing standpoint. You can use it to describe personal behavior, emotional interaction between people; you can show class with it, you can show religion with it, you can show region with it, and you can show changes in all of that. It’s kind of everything because, of course, it’s universal.
Illustration by Nicole Welch
What drew you to food in fiction?
Even as a kid when I was reading books, I lit up when they would describe food, like Bread and Jam for Francis or The Chronicles of Narnia with the Turkish delight.
Some of it is just sheer personal interest. It’s who you read, and I encountered the right stuff to read at the right time and then wanted to figure it out myself.
By the time I was in college, I was reading M. F. K. Fisher. I was reading Laurie Colwin. Probably I was reading a lot of Gourmet. I wanted to do this [write about food] but I didn’t know what that would look like. But Laurie Colwin was a model for what it looks like in fiction—here’s what it looks like to just use this as one of your tools.
How have the Madison and Wisconsin food and beverage scenes influenced your work?
As I was getting ready to graduate, I wanted to write about food, but I didn’t know anything about food. So I got a job at L’Etoile and I worked there hoping they would teach me…but also I just wanted to be there. I worked there for three years. I was never going to own a restaurant, I knew that, but I just really loved being there. And they did teach me kind of everything. It was a lot more than I could have guessed I could even hope for. That was life-changing even though I left it behind in terms of the industry. It changed how I lived and it changed how I ate and how I saw the world.
Memorable Meals
The impact of food and beverages in favorite works of fiction.
Michelle Wildgen
“‘Let’s not starve this winter’ is the plot of that whole book.”
Little House in the Big Woods, by Laura Ingalls Wilder
“Croquembouche and champagne—it feels like such a gesture of care and love.”
Happy All The Time, by Laurie Colwin
Michelle Wildgen
Author, Cofounder of the Madison Writers' Studio, and writer-in-residence at the Wisconsin Institute of Discovery
Evan Dannells, Cadre and Lola’s
“He invented entire cuisines, ingredients, and even a cooking apparatus inside of his world-building.”
The Lies of Locke Lamora, by Scott Lynch
Adam Struebing, Madison Club
“Ever since reading Harry Potter I’ve been inspired to make an elaborate fall feast with many pumpkin things. It was a book that painted what my imagination always thought of in the autumn.”
Harry Potter Series by J.K. Rowling
By Marissa DeGroot, Recipe by Christy McKenzie
SPRING HERBS:
Chives & Chive Blossoms
Chives are rarely the hero. More often they play sidekick in creamy potatoes or rich sour cream spreads. But we believe this herbaceous perennial deserves the title role.
Straddling the line between an allium and an herb, chive shares many traits and uses with its green onion cousin. However, the plant’s thin green leaves—the part people know as “chives”—are more delicate in texture and subtle in taste compared to green onions, making them better suited for raw uses.
Chives bloom in mid-spring to early summer with leaves resembling soft, tall grass, and the plant will eventually produce pale purple flowers that are both beautiful and edible. Most grocery stores will only carry the green chive leaves, but the blossoms may be available at your local farmers’ markets.
Chive blossoms are globes made up of tightly packed florets. To use, carefully separate the florets using your fingers. They are great as a garnish or anywhere you want a pop of flavor and color.
Green thumb or not, chives are one of the easiest herbs to grow. They like full sun and rich, well-drained soil but are tolerant of most soil types and shaded areas. They make a great addition to any windowsill herb box, making it simple to snip a few stems to garnish soup, salad or maybe a deviled egg or two.
Chive Whipped Deviled Eggs
Serves 6
Prep time: 30 minutes
Cook time: 10 minutes
INGREDIENTS
12 large eggs
⅓ cup mayonnaise
1½ tablespoons Dijon mustard
1 teaspoon apple cider vinegar
2 tablespoons finely chopped chives
¼ teaspoon paprika, plus more for garnish
Salt and pepper to taste
Additional chives for garnish
DIRECTIONS
1. Gently place the eggs in a large saucepan, cover with cold water and bring to a boil over high heat. Remove from heat, cover and let rest for 10 minutes. While the eggs are cooking, prepare an ice bath. Remove the eggs from the hot water and plunge them into the ice bath. Allow them to completely cool, about 15 minutes.
2. Peel the eggs, cut them in half lengthwise and scoop the yolks into a bowl. Rinse the whites and place on a towel to dry; place in the fridge to chill. Whip the egg yolks with the mayonnaise, mustard, cider vinegar, chopped chives and paprika. Season with salt and pepper.
3. Fill the egg white halves with the whipped chive filling, then garnish with paprika and chives. Serve immediately or chill before serving. Enjoy within 2 days.
Photo by Sunny Frantz
Sweeter on the Other Side
There is so much to look forward to in the spring, and fresh produce is certainly at the top of my list. In our northern climate, however, the fresh produce available to us in early spring is limited. Fortunately, there are ways to extend the growing season that farmers have been honing for centuries, starting as early as the 1670s in France. These time-honored traditions allow some garden crops to be harvested earlier than would normally be possible if planting in the spring. The general term for these techniques is “overwintering,” which can include several different strategies.
The need for overwintering is due to the fact that few common garden vegetables naturally survive southwest Wisconsin’s cold winters. The typical plant hardiness zones for our region are 4 and 5, with average wintertime lows being -10 to -25 degrees Fahrenheit. These hardiness zones indicate what produce will survive the winters here. While there are many perennial plants (those that grow year after year) that can survive and thrive, most plants cannot and they need more support to make it through the winter. Thus, farmers and gardeners over time
have come up with ways to extend their growing seasons, which not only allows for earlier harvests, but also improves food security and resiliency in local food systems, can improve revenue for farmers and even makes crops more delicious.
One of the simplest ways to overwinter vegetables is to plant winter-hardy crops in the late summer or early fall, then harvest in the spring. This can be done by direct seeding or planting starts (another word for young plants), depending on
by Sunny Frantz
Photo
the vegetable. By planting a season ahead, the vegetables get an early start, beginning in the later part of the growing season then going dormant over the winter. Some growers will cover their crops with hay or other mulch for increased insulation, though this is not always necessary and should be removed as soon as the temperatures begin to warm. While it is too cold for the crops to grow while temperatures are as cold as they get in our region, they are still very much alive and active. During this time, these plants send sugars—the plant’s energy source typically reserved for growth—into the plant to be stored. This sugar storage during the plant’s dormancy helps protect it from damage in frigid temps, but also makes for a much sweeter, more flavorful crop when harvest time comes. This process is known as “cold sweetening.” This stored energy then allows the plant to grow and be ready to harvest much sooner than crops that are planted in the beginning of the growing season.
There is a small window for an early harvest of overwintered produce that happens as soon as the sunlight starts to increase and the ground thaws in the spring, but it must occur before too much growth takes place, as these crops will bolt (go to seed) quickly because of their abundant stored up energy. Bolted plants rapidly lose flavor and texture, so the harvest must happen in this sweet spot to be optimal. Not all garden crops can tolerate this type of overwintering, but there are a few that can survive the cold. Examples of vegetables that can be overwintered using this method include parsnips, carrots, radishes, turnips, potatoes, beets, spinach and other leafy greens. Garlic is also wonderful to overwinter because it requires a long growing season; this is harvested in the summer rather than spring, however. Refer to resources like Johnny’s Seeds and books like The Winter Harvest Handbook by Elliot Coleman for specific planting dates, which may vary based on the vegetable variety and your location.
Another way growers in cold climates extend their season is to use coverings such as greenhouses, hoop tunnels, cold frames and movable
row cover. With each added layer of covering, you essentially move your crops one zone south (warmer) in the plant hardiness zones, meaning the plants do not get as cold in the winter and can be harvested sooner. With the added warmth and concentration of sunlight these covers offer, some produce not only survives the winter but can even slowly grow, especially on warmer winter days. Some vegetables, such as leafy greens, carrots, and leeks grown in a greenhouse or similar covered structure can even be harvested during winter, as they will thaw and be ready to harvest as soon as there is ample sun. Snug Haven Farm in Belleville, a fixture in the Madison farmers’ market scene, is a great example of a local farm using greenhouses to produce a harvest all year.
Farmers and gardeners over time have come up with ways to extend their growing seasons, which not only allows for earlier harvests, but also improves food security and resiliency in local food systems, can improve revenue for farmers and even makes crops more delicious.
Growers in our area can actually use the cold to their advantage and ensure local produce year-round by using a root cellar as a method of overwintering. Once your crops come out of the ground, you can keep “harvesting” them all winter from your cold storage in the root cellar. A root cellar with a temperature that stays between 32 and 40 degrees Fahrenheit (as is typical in our region with a properly-built cellar), paired with high humidity, will keep summer- and fall-harvested produce fresh and
ready to eat in the spring, long before other produce is available. Potatoes, cabbage, onions, apples, carrots and other root vegetables store very well in root cellars. This is great news for market growers who rely on their produce for income, as well as gardeners and homesteaders who want to reduce food waste, keep food costs down and enjoy their own bounty as long as possible. It is important to note that, since the produce stored in a root cellar has already been harvested, it will lose some nutritional value when stored. There are still plenty of nutrients in cold-stored produce, however, and these are certainly a preferable option to produce grown thousands of miles away that also lose nutrition during transport and storage.
While perennial plants that grow in our zone can typically survive our winters, there are a few that do not tolerate the cold and are often grown here as annuals (plants that need to be replanted each year), though they can keep growing season after season if protected from the harsh cold. For perennial plants that are not cold-hardy, potting up small plants and then bringing them inside your home is a way to help keep them alive through the cold season. This works well with plants such as some herbs and peppers, both hot and sweet. Once spring comes, transfer these temporary houseplants back out into your garden to continue enjoying all spring and summer.
While there are many different techniques for keeping your harvest going during the cold season, the big takeaway is that, with overwintering strategies, we’re not restricted to one distinct growing season. If you are a grower, either commercially or as a hobby, you can keep gardening all year long using these various methods of season extension. If you are not a grower but are someone who favors local foods for their flavor, nutrition and ability to support local folks and food systems, then seeking out overwintered vegetables such as parsnips, greens or carrots in the early spring is the perfect way to support local farmers through the whole year.
Spring-Dug Parsnip Cake with Lemon Cream Cheese Frosting
This dessert is carrot cake’s cool, indie cousin. Featuring spring-dug, super sweet parsnips alongside flavors like cardamom, lemon and tangy cream cheese, this cake is sure to please at your next gathering. This makes a double-layer cake, but it can be made into two dozen cupcakes as well; simply line cupcake pans with liners before pouring in the batter and reduce the bake time to 20–22 minutes. Can’t find parsnips? This cake can be made with carrots and will still be totally delicious.
Serves 8-10
Prep time: 45–60 minutes
Cook time: 25–30 minutes, plus 1 hour for cooling
INGREDIENTS
For Cake:
¾ cup light brown sugar, packed
⅓ cup granulated sugar
1 cup (2 sticks) melted butter, cooled to room temperature
4 large eggs
¾ cup applesauce
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 teaspoon lemon zest
2 teaspoons lemon juice
2½ cups all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon baking soda
½ teaspoon salt
1½ teaspoon ground cinnamon
1 teaspoon ground cardamom
½ teaspoon ground ginger
2 cups peeled, grated parsnips
1 cup chopped nuts (I recommend local hazelnuts,but pecans work great, too.)
½ cup raisins or other dried fruit (currants, cherries, cranberries, chopped dates)
½ cup shredded coconut, optional
For Frosting:
8 ounces cream cheese, softened
1 stick butter, softened
½ teaspoon lemon zest
½ teaspoon lemon juice
½ teaspoon vanilla extract
2–3 cups powdered sugar, sifted
Pinch of salt (if using unsalted butter)
DIRECTIONS
1. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F. Lightly butter two 9-inch round cake pans.
2. To help prevent sticking and ensure easier removal of your cakes: Cut circles of parchment paper to fit the bottoms of the cake pans, then put into place. Lightly butter the top of the parchment circles, then dust with flour, tapping out any excess flour.
3. To prepare the cake, whisk the brown sugar, granulated sugar, butter, eggs, applesauce, vanilla, lemon zest and lemon juice together in a large bowl until well combined.
4. In another large bowl, sift the flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt, cinnamon, cardamom and ginger together.
5. Pour the wet ingredients into the dry ingredients, gently stirring them together until just combined. Fold in the parsnips and the nuts, raisins and coconut (if using), being sure not to overmix.
6. Pour the batter evenly between the two pans. Bake for 25–30 minutes, until a toothpick inserted into the cake comes out clean. Be sure not to overbake, as the cake will become dry.
7. Remove the cakes from the oven and allow them to cool completely in the pans on a wire rack. The cakes must be completely cool before frosting and assembling.
8. While the cakes cool, prepare the frosting. In a large bowl using a handheld or stand mixer fitted with a whisk or paddle attachment, beat the cream cheese and butter together on medium-high speed until smooth, about 2 minutes. Add the lemon zest and juice, vanilla extract and a pinch of salt, beating to combine. Add the powdered sugar, ½ cup at a time, beating on high speed until creamy. (You will need about 2 cups of frosting, but can add more powdered sugar if the frosting is too thin, and a little milk if the frosting is too thick.) The frosting should be soft and spreadable, and can be chilled to firm it up if it’s too runny. Assemble and frost the cakes once they have cooled.
by
Photo
Sunny Frantz
The Spring Table
A GATHERING OF LOCAL GOODS AND LUXURIES
HOSTED BY THE VIROQUA FOOD CO+OP
Co+op
by Tracy Harris
Photo
1. Organic Seed Packets
Unique vegetable and flower varieties tailored for productive Midwest gardens. Driftless Seed Supply driftlessseeds.com
2. Fontina Herbes de Provence Creamy and savory with an aromatic Herbes de Provence coated rind. Landmark Creamery landmarkcreamery.com
3. Naturally Flavored, Traditional Dried Pasta Flavored pasta made with organic wheat and Wisconsin farm produce. Dalla Terra Pasta dallaterrapasta.com
4. Cast-Iron Teapot
Tetsubin style cast-iron teapot in a variety of colors. Telsaan Tea telsaan.com
5. Wiscato
A sweet white Muscat wine grown in Wisconsin. Drumlin Ridge Winery drumlinridgewinery.com
6. Bourbon Barrel Aged Maple Syrup
Organic Wisconsin maple syrup aged two years in bourbon barrels. Embark Maple embarkmaple.com
7. Maple Energy
Adventure maple syrup in rugged, resealable pouches that go anywhere! Embark Maple embarkmaple.com
8. Organic Bloom Blend
A beautifully balanced blend that starts sweet with a crisp citrus finish. Wonderstate Coffee wonderstate.com
9. Cultured Butter
Fresh and tangy cultured butter, small batch, hand-shaped. Landmark Creamery landmarkcreamery.com
10. Mushroom & Arugula Quiche
Easy-to-heat quiche featuring wholegrain crust and local produce. Pasture and Plenty pastureandplenty.com
Fictional Fare
Paging through Madison’s food history through fiction
By Jesse Raub
In nearly 100 years of fictional portrayals of Madison the city is defined by transplants starting anew, bringing whatever culinary traditions they have with them and adapting as best they can to their new surroundings.
Madison’s food story is often told through the city’s connections to the farmland surrounding it. When L’Etoile opened in 1976, it was one of only a handful of restaurants in the country that celebrated local ingredients as part of the early farm-to-table movement. When Top Chef stopped by in 2023, the show centered the episode on the Dane County Farmers’ Market, celebrating the fact that it’s the largest producers-only farmers' market in the United States. But Madison isn’t just a paradise of local produce. It’s a city of students and retired professionals, brown-bagged lunches and home-baked casseroles, classic Midwest traditions and first-time cooks. But you won’t often see this side of Madison represented in features. Instead, it’s best found in fiction.
It might seem strange to talk about a city’s food history through fiction, but regardless of whether the characters are real, the food traditions represented often are. Fiction—at least the type set in a specific city—is often one of the best snapshots of people’s everyday eating habits from a specific time and place. Food articles in newspapers and magazines are typically focused on something newsworthy, but there’s nothing newsworthy about two women sharing a cup of tea and cinnamon toast in a basement apartment in 1937. But that’s how we meet Charity Lang, one of the main characters in Wallace Stegner’s Crossing To Safety, published in 1987.
A semi-autobiographical novel, Crossing To Safety’s narrator, Larry Morgan, moves to Madison with his wife, Sally, to teach creative writing at the University of Wisconsin. The novel is mostly concerned with the relationship Larry and Sally build with fellow instructor Sid Lang and his wife Charity over a period of 40 years but anchored in the first half are depictions of life in Madison during the Great Depression—including bits and bobs about what people ate. The Langs come from family money and when they host a party it’s resplendent with “Chicken Kiev, saltimbocca, escallope de veau,” which is far afield from the baked potato that Morgan references as their usual fare. When he describes the cost of groceries against his adjunct salary, he mentions the exorbitant cost of milk, eggs and hamburger—familiar to everyone who lived through rising grocery prices in the last two years. Compared to perhaps our most famous Great Depression novel, The Grapes of Wrath, Larry and Sally get by just fine on his meager teaching salary until he sells a short story to The Atlantic, in which he immediately runs out to buy his favorite party food—“rye bread, mouse cheese, potato chips, and salted peanuts.” When they hire a nanny to help out with their newborn, she makes them “some sort of goulash” and “hot tea with jam in it, Russian style.”
The food we see in Crossing To Safety isn’t really tied to Wisconsin outside of “somebody’s idea of a salad (something embalmed in Jell-O)” that’s brought to a celebratory potluck, but it does show how the early days of industrialized food dominated the country’s diet in a period where most everyone was strapped for cash. Morgan picks up an individually packaged can of coffee while he’s out buying booze for a party—something that was only around 10 years old at the time—but there’s scant mention of a single vegetable in the whole book.
The Anatomy of Dreams, by Chloe Benjamin, follows a similar storyline. After becoming research assistants for their teacher’s lucid dreaming therapy at a boarding school, Sylvie and Gabe follow Dr. Keller to Madison to work for him full-time. While the focus of the novel is a meditation on the ethics of intervention and control in people’s lives, the story, told from Sylvie’s perspective, also documents what it’s like to be young and striking out on your own for the first time. Set in 2004, The Anatomy of Dreams captures the feeling of learning how to cook in the era just before the Internet and cooking shows helped elevate people’s understanding of food. When Sylvie and Gabe invite neighbors Thom and Janna over for dinner, Sylvie has a desire to play hostess but lacks the acumen of an accomplished home cook. She finds a recipe for skewered chicken but lets it dry out too long in the oven when trying to keep it warm, serving a lackluster meal to their guests. Even though Janna praised the dish, “she hadn’t eaten much of it. Now she picked the chunks off the skewer with her fingers and grouped them on the side of the plate.”
Serving your neighbors a poorly cooked meal isn’t unique to Madison, but it represents a demographic often overlooked when the city is portrayed in media. Outside of being a haven for professors and a playground for students, Madison is also a city where young couples get their first start. The food in The Anatomy of Dreams isn’t flashy—Thom makes Sylvie a chicken salad sandwich, Sylvie and Gabe bring bagged lunch to work—and it’s remarkable how similar food in Madison was portrayed in 1937 as it was in 2004. In both Crossing to Safety and The Anatomy of Dreams, food represents a transition to adulthood—making do with what you can on a budget and shifting into your perceived roles as a grown-up. Or as Sylvie puts it, “As we crossed the lawn to Thomas and Janna’s house—a bottle of wine in Gabe’s hand, the sweet potato dish in mine—we could have been any young couple.”
Brandon Taylor’s Filthy Animals takes a different approach to showcasing Madison food. Published in 2021 and set in contemporary times, Filthy Animals collects stories of students and young adults in Madison grappling with turning points in their lives. The world of Filthy Animals skews younger than the other two books mentioned in this piece, but its characters also deal with a harsher, post-2008 financial collapse reality. Instead of dinner parties between two young couples, the book opens with Lionel, a graduate student who recently recovered from a suicide attempt, attending a potluck. But there’s another shift: Taylor’s characters, struggling as they may be, eat a broader variety of foods prepared more confidently. At the potluck, Lionel stacks his plate with “baked asparagus, brown rice, kale salad” and picks at oxidizing chunks of avocado—all buzzy foods that enjoyed a popularity boost in health-conscious cities like Madison in the mid-2010s.
In another story, Sylvia, a young woman who splits her time as a nanny for one family and a cook for another, makes fries from scratch for the kids she’s watching. As she struggles to keep the kids clean and safe, she daydreams about making a soup for the other couple: “Lots of shredded chicken breast, a stock from the bones and marrow, a thick cream base, some herbs.” And then there’s Marta and Sigrid, a new couple who make latkes and borscht and had “grown vegetables in a little plot behind the house and pickled them.” On their first date at a high-end Italian restaurant, they eat “twenty-dollar orecchiette” and “a fifteen-dollar Bolognese,” even though both women live on meager salaries.
This shift towards a more food-conscious life, even on a strapped budget, showcases the overall priority shift for younger generations in Madison. While the leads in Crossing to Safety and Anatomy of Dreams are primarily concerned with succeeding in their field and living on a tight budget, the characters of Filthy Animals are looking for whatever affordable pleasures they can find—with food being a key small luxury. There is one common theme throughout all three books, however. In nearly 100 years of fictional portrayals of Madison, the city is defined by transplants starting anew, bringing whatever culinary traditions they have with them and adapting as best they can to their new surroundings. It may not be the version of Madison we see in food media, but even in fiction, it’s easy to see the truth in those similarities.
Honey Drizzled Crostini
By Christy McKenzie
Winnie the Pooh is the first literary character I can recall relishing completely in relationship with food. His commitment to hunt for honey and savor its sweet stickiness is an invitation to find pure joy. With this recipe, delightfully tumble into teatime, happy hour or an easy lunch or breakfast with family or friends.
Serves 4
Prep time: 15 minutes
Cook time: 15 minutes
INGREDIENTS
4 slices country bread, toasted
6 ounces soft ripened cheese like brie, or soft sheep or goat cheese
4 teaspoons roasted and chopped hazelnuts
1 teaspoons chopped fresh thyme
4 tablespoons honey, warmed Salt to taste
DIRECTIONS
Heat broiler to high with the oven rack in the top position. Spread the cheese on the prepared toast slices and place on a baking sheet. Broil until the cheese is melted and starting to bubble. Remove the crostini from the oven. Top with hazelnuts, sprinkle with thyme and drizzle generously with warm honey.
Photo by Sunny Frantz
JOIN A CSA
where fresh meets local
Community Supported Agriculture (CSA) - like a subscription to the freshest, most flavorful food your local farm has to offer!
And CSA is about more than just food. When you join a CSA, you’re also building a partnership with your local farmer. It’s a delicious way to eat seasonally, explore new flavors, and become part of a story that goes far beyond your plate.
FIND A FARM
Choose the CSA share that is right for you using our Online Farm Search Tool
STEP 1.
Go to: csacoalition.org/farm-search
STEP 2.
STEP 3.
Search FairShare Endorsed farms using the criteria that matters most to you:
• Pickup location • Share Type • Season • Share Size
Explore your results, choose your farm, and get ready for delicious farm-fresh food!
Blue Roof Orchard
Chris & Juli McGuire
Belmont, WI
bluerooforchard.com
@BlueRoofOrchard
Established 2003
We are the area’s only apple CSA, delivering flavorful and unique organic apples in autumn to the greater Madison area, Platteville, and Viroqua. We share pick up sites with veggie CSAs, so you can pick up apples and veggies at the same time.
Harmony Valley Farm
Richard de Wilde & Rafael Morales Peralta Viroqua, WI
harmonyvalleyfarm.com
@harmonyvalleyfarm
Established 1984
Offering a long delivery season from May to December along with over 30 years of experience growing for CSA families
Lovefood Farm
David & Abby Bachhuber
Stoughton, WI
lovefoodfarm.com
@lovefoodfarm
Established 2015
Lovefood Farm is located on 30 acres of beautiful rolling land in the town of Pleasant Springs, about 25 minutes east of Madison. We grow 5 acres of vegetables and herbs that are devoted to our CSA as well as sales to local farmers markets, restaurants and grocery stores.
Rooted - Troy Farm
Federica Ranelli and Paul Huber
Madison, WI
rootedwi.org/troy-csa/ @rootedwi
Established 2001
Troy Farm is a program of the non-profit Rooted whose mission is collaborations rooted in food, land and learning.
Small Family Farm
Jillian & Adam Varney La Farge, WI
smallfamilycsa.com
@smallfamilycsafarm
Established 2006
Small Family Farm is committed to being stewards to the land and delivering fresh, organic vegetables to our community.
Squashington Farm
Sarah Leong & Patrick Hager
Mount Horeb, WI
squashingtonfarm.com
@squashingtonfarm
Established 2016
150-member CSA in Mount Horeb offering pre-packed and market-style shares. On farm pick ups and Madison drop sites.
Local Craft Beverages
You already eat farm-to-table. Why not imbibe locally too? Try these Wisconsin beverage makers for some of the most creative refreshments around.
Balanced Rock Winery
Family-owned boutique winery located on the doorstep of Devil’s Lake State Park. Stop in for wine, food, beer and music.
BALANCEDROCKWINERY.COM
@balancedrockwinery /balancedrockwinery
Featuring Rhuberry & White Catawba
Grumpy
Troll Brewery
Stop in to the Grumpy Troll in Mount Horeb to try one of their 12 rotating, handcrafted microbrews made onsite. Their taproom is the perfect place to gather with friends and family or host any event! Be sure to try one of their delicious smokehouse offerings from their award-winning pitmaster.
THEGRUMPYTROLL.COM
@grumpytrollbrew /grumpytrollbrew
Featuring Sunflower Ale
Bailey's Run Vineyard & Winery
Bailey’s Run Winery is open 7 days a week. Neapolitan pizzas and live music every weekend! “WhereWineGoestoHaveFun!”
BAILEYSRUNVINEYARD.COM
@baileysrunvineyardandwinery /baileysrunvineyard
Featuring Edelweiss
Great Dane Pub & Brewing Company
Since 1994, Madison’s Original Brewpub has served up awardwinning craft beers alongside local and global pub fare. They feature a rotation of classic European varieties, modern styles and cask-conditioned ales. Find six-packs of your favorite Dane recipes at local retailers and all pub locations.
GREATDANEPUB.COM
@greatdanepub /greatdanedowntown
Featuring Mango Tango & Crop Circle Wheat
By Emily Kauffman
Books & Bites
Finding the ways food and fiction intersect is made deliciously obvious at the following local gems: Leopold’s in Madison, Arcadia Books in Spring Green, ObertAlvin Coffee House in Blue Mounds and The Book Kitchen in Mineral Point. Let me give you the SparkNotes version of what makes these places special.
Top: Leopold's on Madison's Regent Street. Middle: Arcadia Books in Spring Green. Bottom: The Book Kitchen in Mineral Point.
Top photos by Isabelle Delfosse. Middle photos courtesy of Arcadia Books. Bottom photos
courtesy
of The Book Kitchen and Paul Strabbing.
LEOPOLD'S BOOKS BAR CAFFÈ
Where else can you read while drinking a cocktail at the bar or look for a book with a coffee in hand?
Leopold's, located at 1301 Regent Street in Madison, is the place to do just that. Their menu features a rotating selection of Italian-inspired espresso drinks featuring JBC and Ruby Coffee, both Wisconsin-owned and national award-winning roasters as well as craft cocktails, wine and beer.
The bar isn’t the only place you can find a beverage to enjoy. Throughout their curated bookstore, you’ll find bottles of wine tucked in the shelves alongside cookbooks, fiction, history and travel organized by country of origin—sure to satisfy a traveler's itch.
Also located inside Leopold’s is a private space you can reserve for any event of up to 12 people. The Book Nook is perfect for book groups, club meetings, happy hour meet-ups and more.
It’s cozy alright. And it gets cozier.
Every Tuesday, Leopold's hosts Madison Django Jazz Jam. Enjoy live acoustic jazz manouche music in the style of Django Reinhardt while sipping a cocktail and reading a book.
ARCADIA BOOKS
Ever wanted to join a silent book club? Once a month, a group gathers at Arcadia Books located at 102 East Jefferson Street in Spring Green. Bring your own book, grab a drink from their coffee bar and enjoy silent reading time for one hour with more visiting at the end.
“All of the fun, none of the anxiety,” they say.
The bookstore, nestled in the Wisconsin River valley, offers a full-service coffee bar with a wide variety of espresso, tea, bursting boba and other cold drinks. Grab a freshly made monster cookie from their bakery case to go with a mocha for an afternoon treat. If you’re in town for a weekend getaway and looking for a quick lunch option, their grab-and-go cooler is filled with premade sandwiches as well as soup from local business Soups I Did It Again.
“At 3 p.m. on the weekdays, you’ll find our tables filled with elementary school kids here for their after-school snack. It’s a community space,” says Nancy Baenen, assistant manager and children’s book buyer at Arcadia.
Arcadia also hosts a virtual book club meeting once a month. Check out their website readinutopia.com and their YouTube channel for more info.
Make sure to put April 26 on your calendar as the perfect opportunity to check out Arcadia for the first time. They will join nearby bookstores to celebrate Independent Bookstore Day and will offer tours of their bookstore.
OBERTALVIN COFFEE HOUSE
Tucked away on Main Street in Blue Mounds is ObertAlvin Coffee House. The building’s exterior reads, “Opera House” but venture inside and you’ll find book-lined walls and cozy spots to plop down with a cup of coffee and a bite to eat in this beautifully restored 1868 opera house.
The shelves of books are from owner Christopher Berge’s personal library as well as donations from customers and community members. It operates as a “take a book, leave a book” library.
The beverage menu features Barriques espresso and drip coffee along with a curated selection of beer, wine and dry cider. The food menu is seasonally focused, sourcing local produce to make their soups, baked goods and smørrebrød, a traditional openfaced sandwich from Denmark, Norway and Sweden.
Berge grew up just five miles down the road from the Blue Mound Opera House where ObertAlvin Coffee House now resides along with a versatile event space and cozy vacation rental. His great-aunt lived in the building in the 1940s, family members had graduation ceremonies there, and his great-uncle performed on its stage.
THE BOOK KITCHEN
Imagine indulging in a cozy culinary mystery with the author— and the brownies from page 32—within arm’s reach. The Book Kitchen is a space where this sensory magic fit for a foodie comes true.
The Book Kitchen is a teaching kitchen in the Republic of Letters bookstore on 151 High Street in Mineral Point.
Nicole Bujewski, The Book Kitchen's owner, and Keith Burrows and Leslie Damaso, the owners of The Republic of Letters Bookstore, have crafted a space where the written word and the art of cooking come together for the community.
“We strive to make a positive contribution to our community by building self-confidence and broadening the learning experience through food,” they write.
From author visits and book signings to cooking classes for both adults and kids, “It’s really a discussion around food,” Bujewski says. “Why is it important and where does it come from? How did the recipe come to be?”
These questions and more are answered through a featured cookbook each month at The Book Kitchen. This spring, they’ll host a release party for The Wisconsin Whey: Cheesemaking in the Driftless with a book-signing, tasting and cheesemaker reception on March 1. In this new book, authors Nicole Bujewski, Keith Burrows, and Kristin Mitchell showcase 12 Driftless cheesemakers. From Master Cheesemakers like Sid Cook of Carr Valley Cheese to Andy Hatch of Uplands Cheese, these artisans span generations and backgrounds.
Visit The Book Kitchen’s website to stay in the loop with upcoming classes and events.
Extending the Season
By Erica Krug
No one goes into farming thinking that it will be an easy way to make a living, but unpredictable weather due to climate change is making an already challenging profession even harder. According to a recent article published by University of Wisconsin–Extension, Wisconsin springs are becoming warmer and wetter. From 1979 to 2021, there has been a 2.6-inch increase in average precipitation in March, April and May, and precipitation during the spring season is now more likely
to come in the form of extreme events. While warmer springs can mean longer growing seasons, varying temperatures and precipitation levels can make it riskier to plant annual crops outdoors. To make the best out of a difficult situation, some farmers in southern Wisconsin are getting creative and turning to infrastructure like greenhouses and hoop houses—protected shelters normally intended for season extension—to grow food throughout the growing season.
Local strawberries, one of summer’s earliest and most anticipated crops, have taken a hit in recent years due to excessive heat and amounts of spring rain that have massively disrupted strawberry harvests. But at popular Warm Belly Farm, a u-pick operation in Cottage Grove, an everbearing variety of strawberry called Albion is grown indoors in a greenhouse using a hydroponic system that allows the staff to control some of the variants like temperature and irrigation. “Being able to have a predictable baseline in your growing environment is beneficial to having a productive and successful crop,” says Erin Warner, horticulturist at Warm Belly. “We do a three-season approach, we start early in spring and go into the fall, that way we can have strawberries throughout that whole extended season and getting an early start means we have fruit earlier and can get people out to the farm earlier.”
Calling Warm Belly Farm’s greenhouse a “mid-tech” approach to season extension, the structure has heat to warm plants in the spring but no way to cool them in summer aside from vents, says Warner. “So, we are still at the mercy of the environment,” she says. In addition to temperature considerations, there is also another crucial thing that the strawberries need to grow even inside a protected
greenhouse, says Emily Hebbe, Warm Belly’s chief operations officer. “It could be a really cloudy spring, and if they don’t get enough sun, they won’t grow,” Hebbe says. Garden-ripe tomatoes, another quintessential summer crop, are also grown in a protected environment at Blue Heron Community Farm in Reedsville, where farmer Alex Young isn’t shy about his feelings on hoop houses. “They are great tools for farmers in the Midwest,” says Young. “I am full-on in love with them. I think they are the greatest things on earth.” A hoop house, also sometimes known as a high tunnel, is a covered structure usually consisting of a steel frame and heavy-duty plastic that protects plants from harsh weather and can be used to extend the growing season. Young says using a hoop house for tomatoes, his farm’s number-one crop, has been a game changer. “The biggest thing is predictability… We can plant tomatoes the first week of April no matter what,” Young says. “In eight seasons on our farm, the outdoor soil conditions the first week of April have varied a lot, some years we get 12 inches of rain and we can’t even get in the fields, and last year it was warm in February, but when you have a hoop house, you are guaranteed the soil will be dry and the temperatures will be warm enough that you can get in and plant.”
Page 25: Learning how to trellis greenhouse cucumbers at Winterfell Acres (photo credit Winterfell Acres)
Top Left: Freshly harvested strawberries at Warm Belly Farm (photo credit Erin Warner)
Bottom Left: Carrot harvest at Blue Heron Community Farm (photo credit Blue Heron Community Farm)
Center: Winterfell Acres greenhouse built using a geothermal kit (photo credit Winterfell Acres)
Right: Cherry tomatoes at Winterfell Acres (photo credit Winterfell Acres)
or susceptible to damage. “It’s too stressful,” Young says. “Wind and catastrophic events that would only happen only once in a generation now seem much more common.” But with one hoop house still standing, Young plans
“The plants are saying that there is a shift, it’s interesting to notice it and intellectually know that it’s going on—and to have plants confirm it is fascinating to me.”
BETHANEE WRIGHT, WINTERFELL ACRES
But while greenhouses and high tunnels can help make an unpredictable process a little more predictable, extreme weather events can also upend efforts meant to safeguard against the effects of climate change, something Young experienced in December 2021 when his new hoop house blew away in unusually high winds. “We had just built that hoop house in November, and some derechos and tornadoes came through in December and blew it away,” Young says. “It was maybe standing for two weeks and then it was gone, we didn’t even get one growing season.” With a small farm, Young decided not to rebuild the new hoop house, focusing instead on growing outdoors and adding low tunnels which aren’t as expensive
to use it to grow tomatoes indefinitely. “The variability that happens with climate change, having predictability in one aspect of farming is really helpful,” Young says. “Throw your hands up with what you can’t control, but being able to control four to five degrees is very helpful.”
Farmer Bethanee Wright of Winterfell Acres says that climate change was one of the main reasons she started farming. “I felt like it was a tangible way that I could make a difference with all of the earth changes that it feels like we are experiencing,” she says. Having grown food for 15 years, now in her 12th season of owning her own farm, Wright says she has experienced “way more intensity” when it comes to the weather. “It’s not that it’s been drier or overly wetter, it’s that every year is different and it’s been amplified,” she says. “There have been several years where I lost crops because it was too wet.” Frustrated with the limitations that come with growing outdoors in fields, Wright received a grant to build a high tunnel and in the first year grew “3,000 or 4,000 pounds of produce,” she says. “I could start having a spring CSA, I was selling April through November, depending on frost, to my chefs…That was my first, ‘Oh wow,’ instead of having to make all of my income basically June through October, I can extend that.” While excessive amounts of rain can devastate crops, “it’s never a problem in the high tunnel or greenhouse,” Wright says. “It’s always easier for me to add water through irrigation but you can never take water away.” Sold on the high tunnel, next Wright and her husband decided to build
a greenhouse using a geothermal kit that uses passive solar to heat the space where she now can grow greens and herbs throughout the winter which she sells to Madison-area chefs. While propane is used in the spring to start seedlings, the majority of the year the greenhouse uses the earth's natural heat to provide heating and cooling. “It’s like a zone 8/9, think like southern Georgia or more Mediterranean,” Wright says. “So, it’s like Italy, which is just delightful.”
Making the best of a bleak situation like climate change, Wright is also trying to keep things new and exciting. “I’m trying to grow figs in my high tunnel, and that is one of the things with climate change. I wasn’t willing to risk that a few years ago because it would have been too cold in the winter,” she says. Wright also planted thornless blackberries in one of her fields in 2017 and hadn’t had a crop until last growing season, when she harvested 50 pints. “The plants are saying that there is a shift, it’s interesting to notice it and intellectually know that it’s going on— and to have plants confirm it is fascinating to me,” Wright says. “It's bittersweet for sure, but it’s where we are at now, we have to do our best to adapt.”
Eat & Drink Local Guide 2025
When you're thinking of going out to explore a new place to eat or meet friends for drinks please consider these generous sponsors.
Branding Iron Roadhouse
A country roadhouse serving burgers made from locally-grown beef and other local fare. The Friday night fish fry, wood-fired pizza nights and smoked rib nights are not to be missed!
132 S. Main St., Lime Ridge BRANDINGIRONRH.COM
Forage Kitchen
Forage Kitchen crafts specialty salads, hearty grain bowls, wraps and soups crammed with mouth-watering, wholesome, local ingredients that keep you happy and satisfied all day long.
Locations across Madison EATFORAGE.COM
Let's Shine Coffee
A cozy, upbeat spot to grab delicious, ethically sourced coffee and other specialty drinks. Thoughtfully developed breakfast and lunch menus highlight local goods.
815 Water Ave., Hillsboro LETSSHINECOFFEE.COM
Heritage Tavern
Heritage Tavern serves modern American cuisine that features fresh locally-sourced seasonal ingredients in a fine dining atmosphere.
131 E. Mifflin St., Madison HERITAGETAVERN.COM
Wonderstate Coffee
Spectacular organic and sustainably sourced coffee; roasted in Wisconsin. Also find a menu and bakery made of local and organic ingredients.
27 W. Main., Madison 117 Rittenhouse Ave., Bayfield
302 S. Main., Viroqua WONDERSTATE.COM
Pasture and Plenty
A restaurant, market, meal kit service, and event space serving a locally-sourced daily menu to folks who are hungry for high-quality, healthy meals, but starved for time.
2433 University Ave., Madison PASTUREANDPLENTY.COM
Graze
Seasonally inspired comfort food by Chef Tory Miller, with sweeping views of the state capital.
1 S. Pinckney St., Madison GRAZEMADISON.COM
Want to see more resources? Check our local guide online: ediblemadison.com/local-guide
BY LAUREN RUDERSDORF
Stranger Than Fiction
Photos by Sunny Frantz
Mushrooms are definitely having a moment here in Wisconsin. It feels like every other month, I learn of a new variety being foraged or grown locally, each more interesting and otherworldly than the last. King Oyster, Maitake, Black Trumpet, Giant Puffball—they look more like something out of a science fiction novel than food to eat. But despite their appearance, people aren’t as wary of mushrooms as they used to be. We’re no longer hiding mushrooms on pizza or burying them in casseroles. We’re learning to let them take a starring role. Lion’s mane and oyster mushrooms are two of my favorites. Incredibly easy to work with and hearty, these mushrooms can replace meat on sandwiches, tacos, crab cakes and much more.
Lion’s Mane French Dip Sandwich
In this spin on a classic French Dip, chef Juan David Umaña utilizes lion’s mane mushrooms as a meaty substitute. As a chef focused on plant-based fare, mushrooms have played a pivotal role in his flavors and textures. Lion’s mane mushrooms serve as a perfect vessel for absorbing marinades and being exposed to high heat while maintaining their textual integrity. If you are unable to get a hold of lion’s mane, portobellos and shiitakes make a great substitution.
Serves 4
Prep time: 15 minutes, plus 8–24 hours to marinate
Cook time: 60 minutes
INGREDIENTS
For Marinade:
5 teaspoons cumin seeds, toasted and ground
2 teaspoons smoked paprika
2 teaspoons chili powder
¼ cup nutritional yeast
½ cup tamari
½ cup mirin
¼ cup sesame oil
¼ cup extra virgin olive oil
3 tablespoons white wine vinegar
3 bay leafs
3 tablespoons maple syrup
1 teaspoon pink Himalayan salt
½ pound lion’s mane mushrooms, sliced into steaks or torn into strips
For Sandwich:
1 baguette, sliced lengthwise
4 ounces provolone, havarti, or vegan cheese, cut into thin slices
1 bunch scallions, thinly sliced
For Roasted Garlic Butter:
3 full heads garlic, cloves peeled and trimmed
1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
8 tablespoons butter or vegan butter
1 bunch chives, minced
1 tablespoon whole grain Dijon mustard
½ teaspoon pink Himalayan salt
For Au Jus:
1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
1 large shallot, minced
2 full heads garlic, cloves peeled, trimmed and minced
1 bundle fresh thyme
1 teaspoon porcini powder, optional
1 tablespoon sherry vinegar
1 cup marinade
1 cup vegetable broth
DIRECTIONS
1. Prepare the marinade by adding all marinade ingredients except the mushrooms into a blender and processing on high until evenly incorporated. Reserve half the mixture in a small bowl. Pour the other half of the mixture into a large bowl and toss with the mushrooms. Drain excess liquid using a fine mesh strainer into the small bowl of reserved liquid. Cover both and place in the fridge for 8-24 hours.
2. One hour before you want to eat, preheat the oven to 400 degrees F.
3. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Remove the mushrooms from the fridge and use your hands to place them on the prepared baking sheet, allowing excess marinade to drip off. Roast for 20 minutes, flip the mushrooms, and cook until well-caramelized, 20-30 minutes more.
4. To make the roasted garlic butter, coat the prepared garlic cloves with olive oil and place them in a small baking dish. Roast in the preheated oven, alongside the mushrooms, until tender and fragrant, about 15 minutes. Allow the garlic to cool, then puree in a food processor with the butter, chives, mustard and salt until all ingredients are incorporated consistently throughout the butter. Remove to a small bowl.
5. Prepare the jus by warming the olive oil in a small saucepan over medium heat. Add the shallot, garlic, thyme and porcini powder, if using. Cook until softened and fragrant, about 5 minutes. Add the vinegar, 1 cup reserved marinade and the vegetable broth. Bring to a boil over high heat, reduce to a simmer and allow the sauce to thicken for 10 minutes. Remove the thyme leaves and transfer the jus to a blender. Blend on high until the mixture is evenly incorporated. Strain the jus into four small ramekins or bowls.
6. Preheat the broiler to high. Spread the roasted garlic butter on both sides of the baguette. Add the cheese to one half of the baguette in an overlapping pattern so the pieces fan out across the entire loaf. Broil the bread for 1–2 minutes until the butter begins to brown and the cheese begins to melt. Add the mushrooms to the half of the baguette covered with cheese, top with scallions and close the sandwich. Cut the baguette into four servings and serve with jus.
Recipe by Juan David Umaña
Oven Roasted Mushrooms
Every spring, Dani Lind starts scanning the woods for golden oyster mushrooms, an invasive species that usually grows on dead elms that are easy to identify and unusually easy to find given their bright yellow color and tendency to grow in large groups of clusters. She finds this recipe to be a simple way to preserve large bounties of oysters for the freezer and recommends varying liquids and aromatics based on how you plan to use the mushroom. For example, use shallots, fresh ginger, mirin and tamari if you’re serving the mushrooms alongside rice or with an Asian soup. Or, use garlic, white wine, fresh Mediterranean herbs and olive oil if you’re serving them with pasta. Or try them with red wine or bourbon, garlic, rosemary and crushed juniper berries to top a perfect grilled steak
Serves 4
Prep time: 10 minutes
Cook time: 25 minutes
INGREDIENTS
1 pound fresh oyster mushrooms, foraged or store-bought
2 tablespoons olive, sunflower or sesame oil
1 tablespoon dry wine, sherry, dry vermouth, mirin or whiskey
1 tablespoon tamari or soy sauce (or ½ teaspoon sea salt)
1 tablespoon minced fresh garlic, shallots, and/or fresh ginger
2 teaspoons dried herbs or spices of choice (or 2 tablespoons fresh herbs)
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
DIRECTIONS
1. Preheat the oven to 400 degrees F.
2. Prepare the oyster mushrooms by cutting away any tough or dirty stem bases. Use your hands to separate clusters into large bite-size pieces. Don’t worry if some pieces are smaller than others.
3. In a large bowl, whisk together the remaining ingredients. Add the mushrooms and toss gently or mix with your hands to evenly coat.
4. Pour the mushrooms onto a greased or parchment-lined baking sheet and spread out evenly. Roast for 10 minutes, stir and continue to roast for another 10–15 minutes until the mushrooms are to your liking (tender or crispy).
5. Enjoy as is or with pasta, pizza, eggs, salads, sandwiches, soups, or on steak or marinated tofu. If you have a large quantity, let them cool and then pack flat in food storage bags for the freezer.
Recipe by Dani Lind of Red Clover Ranch
Oyster Mushroom Tacos
Mushroom tacos have become a weeknight staple in our household. Infinitely adaptable with whatever mushroom we have on hand (oysters, lion’s mane and shiitakes), they roast up into crispy strips that pair well with whatever is in season. Radish matchsticks and microgreens are a classic spring combo for us, often adding pickled red onions if we have some in the fridge.
Serves: 4
Prep time: 10 minutes
Cook time: 40 minutes
INGREDIENTS
For Roasted Mushrooms:
1½ pounds oyster mushrooms, torn into strips
5 tablespoons olive oil
3 tablespoons soy sauce or tamari
1 tablespoon maple syrup
2 green garlic stalks (or 4 garlic cloves), minced
1 teaspoon kosher salt
For Chive Sour Cream:
½ cup sour cream
2 tablespoons minced chives
¼ teaspoon salt
⅛ teaspoon black pepper
For Tacos:
8–12 small corn or flour tortillas
½ ounce microgreens
1 bunch radishes, cut into matchsticks
Pickled red onions, optional
DIRECTIONS
1. Preheat the oven to 450 degrees F.
2. Combine the mushrooms, olive oil, soy sauce or tamari, maple syrup, green garlic and salt in a large bowl. Toss until the mushrooms are evenly coated with sauce.
3. Spread out the mushrooms on two parchment-lined baking sheets. Roast for 20 minutes, stir and roast for 10–15 minutes until browned and crisped.
4. While the mushrooms roast, prepare the chive sour cream by combining the sour cream, chives, salt and pepper in a small bowl.
5. Remove the mushrooms from the oven and turn it off. Warm tortillas in the oven for a minute, then spread them with a generous portion of the chive sour cream. Top with mushrooms, microgreens, radishes and pickled red onions (if using).
Recipe by Lauren Rudersdorf
Lion's Mane Mushroom
“Crab” Cake
Ironically, Tommy Stauffer, a mushroom farmer, didn’t like mushrooms for most of his life, but as it turned out, he had never really tried different varieties or cooked them well. These days you’ll find shiitake, oyster, maitake, and lion’s mane mushrooms in nearly every dish he cooks, and he finds himself talking up how versatile and delicious they are to anyone who will listen. For mushroom newbies especially, he likes to suggest this “crab” cake recipe because it introduces people to a unique mushroom that mimics seafood in texture and taste, making it very approachable for those new to experimenting with mushrooms. He likes to serve this recipe on top of a bed of arugula or other spring greens salad.
Serves: 2-4
Prep time: 30 minutes
Cook time: 20 minutes
INGREDIENTS
1 tablespoon flaxseed meal
3 tablespoons water
½ pound lion’s mane mushrooms
¼ cup yellow onion, diced
1 tablespoon mayonnaise or vegan mayonnaise
1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce, classic or vegan
¾ teaspoon Old Bay seasoning
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
1 tablespoon parsley, finely chopped
¼ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon black pepper
½ cup panko breadcrumbs
3 tablespoons oil
Lemon Tartar sauce, optional
DIRECTIONS
1. In a small bowl, combine the flaxseed meal and water. Refrigerate for at least 10 minutes to thicken.
2. Shred the lion’s mane mushrooms by hand into small pieces so that they resemble the size of flaky crab meat.
3. In a large bowl, combine the flaxseed mixture, onion, mayonnaise, Worcestershire sauce, Old Bay seasoning, Dijon mustard, parsley, salt and black pepper. Mix until fully incorporated.
4. Mix in the shredded lion’s mane mushrooms and panko breadcrumbs.
5. With your hands, form the mixture into three or four round, flat patties that are around ½- to ¾-inch thick.
6. Heat the oil in a large frying pan over medium to high heat.
7. Cook the patties for two to three minutes per side. The patties should be cooked throughout and golden brown on the outside.
8. Serve with a squeeze of lemon and tartar sauce or your favorite sauce.
Tableware and linens provided by Good Day Shop.
Recipe by Tommy Stauffer of Vitruvian Farms
Unforgettable Serve
Aged even more Aged
Made with care
Crafted in Spain
THE EXCELLENCE OF EUROPEAN D.O. CAVA AND JAMÓN CONSORCIOSERRANO
Crafted in Spain, perfected by time
In a world that often prioritizes speed over substance, there remains proof that good things, and excellent taste, take time. D.O. Cava and Jamón ConsorcioSerrano are two such treasures, each representing a unique blend of Spanish tradition and taste created with time and perfected over centuries.
Cava has earned its place among the world’s finest sparkling wines, yet it remains wonderfully versatile. Whether paired with a simple salad, a casual meal or a celebratory toast, Cava brings a touch of elegance to every occasion. What makes Cava de Guarda Superior unique is that it is produced using the traditional method where secondary fermentation occurs in the bottle.
This meticulous process, lasting a minimum of 18 months, is carefully overseen by the D.O. Cava regulatory body, ensuring that each bottle upholds the highest standards of quality and authenticity. Made from organic vineyards that are over 10 years old, Cava de Guarda Superior reveals its craftsmanship with every pour. As the delicate, harmonious bubbles rise to the surface, you can truly appreciate the time and care it took to perfect them!
Similarly, Jamón ConsorcioSerrano is more than just a drycured ham. This exquisite product is made using traditional curing
methods which takes a minimum of 12 months to deliver a delicate and rich flavor. Each production is upheld to the rigorous standards of the Consorcio del Jamón Serrano Español, which ensures that every piece of Jamón ConsorcioSerrano bearing the seal is of exceptional quality. Like Cava, Jamón ConsorcioSerrano is not merely an accompaniment to festive tables; it is a versatile delight that can elevate everyday meals with its complex flavors and delicate texture.
Both Cava and Jamón ConsorcioSerrano are perfect examples of how time-honored craftsmanship, underpinned by the European Union’s commitment to quality and tradition, creates products that are unmatched in their category. They are not just crafted in Spain; they are perfected by time, offering a taste of excellence that is both accessible and extraordinary. Whether enjoyed on a special occasion or as part of your daily life, Cava and Jamón ConsorcioSerrano bring the best of Europe to your table.
Learn more on our website
THANK YOU TO OUR ADVERTISERS!
We would not exist without the support of the businesses and organizations that advertise in our pages. This support allows us to pay writers, designers, photographers, print and distribute this issue and make this a free publication for readers to pick up throughout southwestern Wisconsin.
Please support the following businesses to experience the best local, seasonal and sustainable products and services in the region.
If you enjoy this publication and want to support our work, please consider subscribing. An added bonus: you won't miss an issue. Subscribe at ediblemadison.com
Thank you!
GROCERY STORES & FARMERS' MARKETS
PEOPLE’S FOOD CO-OP pfc.coop
VIROQUA FOOD CO+OP viroquafood.coop
WILLY STREET CO-OP willystreet.coop
EVENTS
FARMERS & FRIENDS STORY TIME AT LAKE CITY BOOKS ediblemadison.com /events/story-time
RIDGES & RIVERS BOOK FESTIVAL ridgesandriversbookfestival.org
LIFESTYLE & KITCHEN
DRIFTLESS POLE BUILDINGS driftlesspolebuildings.com
SIFT & WINNOW siftandwinnow.com
WISCONSIN CUTLERY & KITCHEN SUPPLY wisconsincutlery.com
WISCONSIN WHEY BOOK thebookkitchenmp.com
TOURISM
ANAWAY PLACE anaway.com
LATARNIA GUEST HOUSE latarniaguesthouse.com
FARMS & FOOD GOODS
B&E’S BOURBON BARREL MAPLE SYRUP embarkmaple.com
DALLA TERRA dallaterrapasta.com
DRIFTLESS CHOCOLATES driftlesschocolates.com
DRIFTLESS SEEDS driftlessseeds.com
LANDMARK CREAMERY landmarkcreamery.com
MEADOWLARK FARM & COMMUNITY MILL meadowlarkorganics.com
RIEMER FAMILY FARM riemerfamilyfarm.com
ROOTS TO FRUIT NURSERY rootstofruits.com
FOOD, AGRICULTURAL & SUSTAINABILITY ORGANIZATIONS
FAIRSHARE CSA COALITION csacoalition.org
FOOD & BEVERAGES
BAILEY’S RUN VINEYARD baileysrunvineyard.com
BALANCED ROCK balancedrockwinery.com
BRANDING IRON ROADHOUSE brandingironrh.com
THE COOPERS TAVERN thecooperstavern.com
DRUMLIN RIDGE WINERY drumlinridgewinery.com
FORAGE KITCHEN eatforage.com
GRAZE grazemadison.com
GREAT DANE PUB & BREWING COMPANY greatdanepub.com
THE GRUMPY TROLL thegrumpytroll.com
HERITAGE TAVERN heritagetavern.com
ISLAND ORCHARD CIDER islandorchardcider.com
LET’S SHINE COFFEE letsshinecoffee.com
MADISON SOURDOUGH madisonsourdough.com
NOURISHMENT nourishmentpc.com
PASTURE AND PLENTY | P&P MAKESHOP pastureandplenty.com
TELSAAN TEA telsaan.com
WONDERSTATE COFFEE wonderstatecoffee.com
The Wisconsin Whey, a collaborative book with Mineral Point’s Nicole Bujewski, Keith Burrows, and Kristin Mitchell celebrates Wisconsin’s iconic cheese and the artisans behind it, offering a compelling look at what makes the state exceptional.
BY MICHELLE WILDGEN
The Lost Object
A terrible thing has happened:
Emma has lost her appetite. Worse things have happened, and quite recently, than a woman who once loved food and is currently eating dry bread for dinner. A roast chicken was once Emma’s primary tool to address catastrophe, but now she can’t recall why she’d ever thought that worked. Chewing, staring at the pale gray paint of her living room, she imagines a bronzed chicken on a neat white plate and realizes it has nothing to do with her.
Perhaps she has been mistaken for decades, showing up to bedsides and houses of mourning with her poky little comestibles. The recipients probably chucked her offerings in the trash—not from malice, just this same sense of bafflement.
She’s been in this state since her own catastrophe; it may be temporary. If it’s not, she will have to fill her time with some fussy, mincing hobby like embroidery or painting Ukrainian Easter eggs. Instead of elaborate sauces, she can offer the stricken her dogsbody help, cleaning messes and transporting objects. Now that people have offered this type of thing to Emma, she knows how useful it is.
(There are many, many objects.)
But at some point it did strike her that no one has brought her, say, a casserole. It’s her own fault: they think she will
be critical. Maybe, before, she would have been. Now she understands that people in her state approach food with a sense of bovine obedience. They know they must take it in and make use of it, even if they cannot quite remember why. That is the state in which she finishes her bread. She did her job and the bread did its.
A few days later, however, something new occurs. An acquaintance, who must have heard of her catastrophe but doesn’t realize she once had strong opinions about recipes, leaves a loaf of sourdough on her porch. Lighter than it looks, round, as rustic and nubbly as earth. There is a card and a bottle of dark green olive oil.
Emma brings them into her house and looks at them, this selection of objects. Theoretically, she knows what to do. It’s a matter of unwrapping, slicing, plating, unscrewing, pouring, dabbing. It’s too much motion for right now, but the tangy fragrance of the bread makes her think that she might get started. Not yet, but possibly soon. In the meantime, she picks up the loaf of bread and places it in her lap. It emits a toasted fragrance and a fine dusting of flour and crumbs; its brown exterior gives no sign of its intricate, internal architecture. Emma holds it tenderly and lightly, like a lost object she is grateful to find.
Photo by Sunny Frantz
