Edible Indy Winter 2019 | No. 35 by Edible Indy

edible INDY

EAT. DRINK. READ. THINK. Local Food Stories from Indiana & Beyond

Folk MEMBER OF EDIBLE COMMUNITIES

Issue 35 | Winter 2019

edible INDY

Winter 2019

CONTENTS DEPARTMENTS

FEATURES

2 Hoosier Thoughts

28 A Swedish Christmas with Hannah Lindgren

4 Foodgrams 6 DIY 11 Eat 16 Farm 20 Craft 24 Artisan 48 Last Bite

RECIPES

“Not only have I kept the traditions alive, but I feel like I really am Swedish.” words: Charity Singleton Craig | photography: Hiedi Nguyen

36 Steps Saved A personal narrative exploring Indiana’s impact on kitchen design and culture throughout history words: Claire Trost | photography: Indiana Historical Society

40 Bio Town Ag How this no-waste Indiana facility is changing the future of farming words: Shauna L. Nosler

7 Natural Pinecone Fire Starters 8 Homemade Muesli 8 Lavender, Flaxseed and Rice Soothing Eye Pillows 12 Golden Bite Latte 13 Fat Kick Flip 14 Vegan Maple Apple Almond Scones 15 Chocolate Gingerbread Financier 26 Bee Sting Cake 32 Pepparkakor (Ginger Snaps) 32 Glögg—the Old Swedish Way Find recipe for Swedish Brown Beans and explore more exclusive online-only recipes at EdibleIndy.com

COVER photography: Katherine Costello, shot at The Alexander Hotel in downtown Indianapolis. Find story and recipes on page 10. edibleINDY.com

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HOOSIER THOUGHTS

alking into the bitter cold temperatures that will say hello to us very soon, we readily embrace the warmth of change and the idea of new beginnings. With this issue we say goodbye to our beloved managing editor, Colleen Leonardi, who is creating a brand new journey in a brand new place in her life. Her departure leaves a missing piece in the heart of Edible Indy, and we wish her a bright and shiny future. We also take a pause to announce that we are looking for new hands and hearts to carry on the love, advocacy and storytelling of Edible Indy. We seek the next amazing publisher to help develop an even stronger bond with our community and to elevate its bloom and blossom. As we all grow older, situations shift and priorities change. Over the past six years we have grown our publication in ways that have championed and nourished the local food movement in Central Indiana. We have met amazing people, helped brilliant artisans and told stories from our hearts. We will not miss a beat while we are looking for new leadership with the right fit and we will continue to fight to make a difference. If you are interested in learning more about Edible Indy or stepping into the ownership role, please reach out to us personally. We are so blessed to have your local support and to support you back. Let’s make 2020 the best year yet to tell the stories that make a difference to someone.

PUBLISHER: Rubenstein Hills LLC EDITOR IN CHIEF Jennifer L. Rubenstein CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER Jeff Rubenstein EDITOR AT LARGE Shauna L. Nosler GUEST EDITOR Colleen Leonardi COPY EDITOR Doug Adrianson DESIGNER Cheryl Angelina Koehler STAFF Caryn Scheving, Graphics Claire Trost, Regional Sales

Hoosier Hugs,

ADVERTISING Claire Trost ClaireEdibleMidwest@gmail.com 614.806.0056

Jennifer & Jeff Rubenstein

Please call or email to inquire about becoming a member of our advertising partnership and show your support for the local food culture in Central Indiana.

s winter wraps its way around the Midwest, I bid farewell to my time with Edible Indy. Thank you to all of the wonderful people who have embraced my tenure with the magazine and shared their stories with me. May you all find sustenance and inspiration this season in your favorite traditions, home-cooked meals and the simple gifts that make the holidays truly holy days. May the kitchen be a place where stories and secrets are revealed and laughter stays lit long after dark. May your connections to the land where you live endure and light the way home to your heart. And may all children this season have a warm home, good food to eat and a special gift from a loved one to carry them through the year. I wish everyone continued success and joy, as we all stay committed to the local food movement. Thank you to everyone at Edible Indy and within the Central Indiana community for walking with me and bringing so much joy my way these last two years. Peace be with you. Eat Well, Love Well, Live Well,

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EDIBLE INDY TEST KITCHEN SPONSOR Market District CONTACT US Edible Indy PO Box 155 Zionsville, Indiana 46077 317.489.9194 info@edibleindy.com Edible Indy is published quarterly (March, May, September and November). Distributed throughout Central Indiana and by subscription elsewhere. Subscriptions are $32 for one year and can be purchased online at EdibleIndy.com or by check to the address above. Every effort is made to avoid errors, misspellings and omissions. If, however, an error comes to your attention, then you probably have not had enough wine with your healthy food. Please accept our sincere apologies and, if it’s important, please notify us! Thank you. No part of this publication may be used without written permission from the publisher. © 2019 all rights reserved.

Colleen 2

Photograph © Rachel Joy Barehl, RachelJoyBarehl.com

FROM THE EDITOR

Winter 2019

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FOODGRAM FEAST #edibleindy

Celebrate edible goodness through the lens of our community by tagging us on all of your culinary journeys. You might find us reveling in your photos here or @edibleindy. Cheers to your next Foodgram adventure!

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@hoteltangodistillery

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@bovaconticoffee

@nativebread

@oldmajormarket

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@see_do_eat

@101beerkitchenindy

@indyfp317

Winter 2019

The Inn Place to Stay

hotelbroadripple.com 317.787.2665 6520 Wes)ield Boulevard • Indianapolis, IN 46220

Nestled between the White River and the Monon Trail in Broad Ripple is a boutique hotel featuring nine rooms. The two structures were repurposed in 2014 to create an inviting, comfortable upscale hotel with the feel of a contemporary lodge. Since opening, two additional adjacent buildings have been purchased, adding four more guest rooms and a private event space. Each of the existing 13 rooms is unique in size, number and type of beds, and décor. In addition, Hotel Broad Ripple houses The Bunkhouse Lounge, a casual, comfortable setting offering a choice selection of wines and local craft beers for hotel guests and those who might stroll in off the trail. Small, healthy appetizer plates are also available. The hotel is beautifully situated on a spacious green lawn adjacent to the Monon Trail. Adirondack chairs on the lawn and on the many decks of the guest rooms offer the perfect spots for relaxing and watching life on the trail. Since its inception this space has allowed the hotel to add to the cultural events of the Village with Thursday evening outdoor movies, live music on the weekends and monthly flea markets. The yard is also available for wedding ceremonies. Hotel Broad Ripple is the Inn Place to Stay whether you are hosting out-of-town guests or looking to treat yourself to a staycation and their private event space is the perfect spot for business meetings, bridal and or baby showers or social gatherings. Also introducing new one- and two-bedroom apartments available at River House. Nightly, weekly and monthly rates available. Visit HBrRiverhouse.com to book. 6520 Westfield Blvd. | Indianapolis | HotelBroadRipple.com

Edible Indy Seeking New Publisher photograph: Lauren McDuffie

We are looking for new hands and hearts to carry on the love, advocacy and storytelling of Edible Indy. We seek the next amazing publisher to help develop an even stronger bond with our community and to elevate its bloom and blossom. As we all grow older, situations shift and priorities change. Over the past six years we have grown our publication in ways that have championed and nourished the local food movement in Central Indiana. If you are interested in learning more about Edible Indy or stepping into the ownership role, please reach out to us. Email: jennifer@edibleindy.com

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DIY

GIFTS & GOOD COMPANY ’Tis the season for sustainable gifting

words: Malinda Meadows | photography: Jennifer L. Rubenstein

henever I visit friends for dinner in NYC, my host or hostess gift always looks the same: a new favorite cheese, or perhaps rosemary table crackers, maybe something pickled or a bottle of something that brings a little extra warmth to the winter evening. Translation: Something that the host doesn’t have to make room for in their shoebox-sized apartment after our shared home-cooked meal.

Last year, I noticed a little cloud hanging over me at the start of the holiday season. If the holidays are supposed to be about slowing down, cozying up and enjoying the warmth of conviviality with kith and kin, why did everything feel so complicated? More specifically, why were gifts so complicated? No matter where you live—whether it’s a restored farmhouse with lots of space or a pint-sized city apartment—I’ve yet to meet one person who said, “I wish I had one more dust-gathering thing on that shelf.” I was also concerned by the amount of holiday waste generated globally. While the winter holiday season brings good cheer for most people, it also brings a lot more solid waste to the landfills and harm to the environment. According to the Environmental Protection Agency, the amount of trash produced in the U.S. between Thanksgiving and New Year’s Day increases to about one million extra tons of garbage each week. Lastly, I was stressed by the general busyness that surrounds the holiday season. Underpinning this more sustainable approach to the holiday was also a craving for simplicity, an urge to pare everything back to basics and let nature set the pace of the season—not the frantic commercials or advertisements encouraging us to buy, buy, buy. These feelings inspired the idea to apply the same simple approach to the holidays as my NYC dinner rituals. The approach to holiday gifting was simple: no plastic or wrapping paper, opt for recycled over new, homemade over storebought, and if it was consumable, too? Even better. In short, an approach to gifting that wouldn’t put any stress on the giver, the receiver or the environment. When I resolved to do this, I informed my family and friends, mostly so they wouldn’t expect anything big or expensive from me, and hopefully, that would indirectly take pressure off them as well. To my wonderful surprise, my friends and family were not only supportive, they also joined me. Holding true to my habits as a dinner party guest, I made most of my gifts consumable. I opted for making batches of

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Winter 2019

homemade muesli and granola, paired with coffees from local roasters. I curated ingredients for simple holiday cocktails and paired them with unique glasses from vintage stores. I also made natural pinecone fire starters and soothing lavender eye pillows, my only non-consumables. My brother crafted beautiful coasters from reclaimed wood; his wife was the queen of delicious pickled and canned goods from the previous growing season. Other friends made soy candles in recycled pottery. The approved gift list expanded to include recycled books, because of their easily shareable nature and the idea that few things are more special than books that pass between different hands. Packaging was simple but still beautiful, like recycled glass containers or metal tins, with twine and a sprig of eucalyptus or pine. And because many wrapping papers cannot be recycled due to the wax or glossy coatings, recycled newsprint or magazines became an ideal substitute. If every American family wrapped just three presents in reused materials, it would save enough paper to cover 45,000 football fields. This approach isn’t perfect by any means, and there’s always room for improvement—especially when it comes to sustainability. Yet as Anne Marie Bonneau says, “We don’t need a handful of people doing zero waste perfectly. We need millions of people doing it imperfectly.” If anything, this approach is a reminder that a busy life isn’t the same as a full life, a gift doesn’t have to be big or expensive to be appreciated and holidays are best spent with those you love. This will be our approach to the holiday season again this year. And if all goes according to plan, we’ll have hot ciders, coffee, treats, books and good company. What else, after all, do we need during the holidays? Malinda Meadows is a freelance writer based in Columbus but will travel the world for a good meal. She loves handmade pasta, Swedish music and the first day in a new city. Find more of her writing online at MalindaInTheSnow.com or follow along on Instagram @malindainthesnow.

Natural Pinecone Fire Starters By Malinda Meadows Pinecones make for great fire starters, and fallen ones can easily be collected on your next walk. The white wax gives them a “snowy” effect, and because they are made from soy, they also have a cleaner burn. WHAT YOU NEED:

Pinecones String wick Soy wax Melting pot Starting at the base of the pinecone, wrap the wick along the inside, winding toward the top and leaving an extra inch for lighting. Heat soy wax in a melting pot according to instructions. Dip pinecone by holding onto the excess wick until you reach desired thickness and look. Higher wax temperatures will create smoother, shinier cones but will take more dips. Lower temperatures will create matte cones and will be quicker, but the coating will be less even. Arrange in a recycled tin or basket when finished.

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Homemade Muesli By Malinda Meadows Start your holidays on a healthy but delicious note with this homemade muesli. WHAT YOU NEED:

11 cups mixed cereal flakes (oats, rye, barley, spelt, etc.) 1½ cups toasted coconut 1½ cups seed mix (pumpkin, sunflower, sesame) 6 ounces toasted vanilla almonds 6 ounces dried bananas 6 ounces dried sour cherries (or your favorite dried fruit) Ground cinnamon to taste For toasting: Toast coconut flakes for 5–8 minutes and almonds for 10–15 minutes at 300°F, monitoring closely. Once almonds are ready, mix with a teaspoon of vanilla to coat. Mix all ingredients and store in a Weck jar for freshness, or any container with an airtight seal.

Lavender, Flaxseed and Rice Soothing Eye Pillows By Malinda Meadows This relaxing eye pillow is the perfect remedy for the busy holiday season. It can be cooled in the icebox or warmed up in the microwave for a few seconds. WHAT YOU NEED:

2 pieces of leftover scrap fabric, approximately 8½ by 3 inches ½ cup flaxseed ½ cup rice Lavender essential oils Sewing supplies First, make the pouch. Place 2 pieces of fabric with the print side facing each other (inside out). Sew along the edges, leaving 2 inches for an opening. Flip the fabric right side out. Mix equal parts flaxseed and rice, and add a few drops of essential oil. Begin to fill the pouch with the mixture until it has the right feel for you and then hand sew the opening together. 8

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Our kitchen

is fresh from scratch.

Keystone Crossing • 317.315.1125 Located on East 82nd St. and Dean Rd. Mon-Sat: 11-9 • Sunday: 11-8

TAZIKIS.COM

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@Mercantile37 Mercantile37.com 10

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25625 IN-37 Noblesville, IN 46060

hen Eric Stam’s family farm received a Hoosier Homestead Award at the 2015 Indiana State Fair, it recognized that they have tended the same agricultural land for over 150 years. His family has owned its Brownstown farm since the Civil War. But the award signaled more than a milestone—it also marked a turning point in the life of the farm. “The idea was, ‘What’s going to be the next generation of the farm? It’s up to me to take ownership of that.’ So, we started thinking about starting a distillery,” Stam says. That’s when he created Almond Bite Liqueur, one of the very first dairy-free, gluten-free and vegan cream liqueurs on the market. As co-founder and CEO, Stam leads a team of fellow born-and-raised Hoosiers dedicated to serving their community and producing an almond-milk-based liqueur in their home state. This holiday season, he’s sharing how to blend this local liqueur into your family food traditions.

Sugar Cookie Sips Almond Bite starts with a corn-based vodka, which makes the liqueur gluten-free and easily mixable. Blended with almond milk and vanilla, the liqueur has a light texture and a smooth mouthfeel. The light almond and vanilla flavors meld with a hint of sweetness for a warming sip that tastes like a sugar cookie. As well as being vegan, dairy-free and gluten-free, Almond Bite represents a more healthful alternative to traditional cream liqueurs. Lab-tested nutritional information indicates that Almond Bite has less than half the calories, sugar and carbs of whole-milk cream liqueurs—with just as much alcohol.

Mix It Up EAT

A TOAST TO ANIMAL LOVERS Indiana’s first vegan liqueur adds nuttiness to winter eats words: Madeline Crozier | photography: Katherine Costello pottery and styling: Rebecca Graves, Gravesco Pottery

As a versatile dairy-free liqueur, Almond Bite can add a new twist to mixed drinks and recipes. Just substitute in any recipe that calls for milk or cream liqueur. The sweet vanilla and almond milk liqueur pairs well with the warming flavors of the winter season, such as cinnamon, nutmeg and pumpkin spice. It swirls easily into coffee, homemade eggnog (see recipe on page 13 for vegan substitute), tea and hot chocolate. “For simple family recipes like these, you can use Almond Bite instead and create a new tradition,” Stam says. He and his team know that Almond Bite is untraditional, but that’s exactly what they want. “There are only several other companies in the world doing something like this,” he says. “We’re pretty proud of that, but we’re very different.”

Photographed at The Alexander Hotel in downtown Indianapolis. edibleINDY.com

From seasonal cocktails to home-baked goods, Almond Bite offers a way to get creative with classic family favorites. Pick it up at your local liquor store or try it in a mixed drink at your favorite restaurant or bar. “If you don’t see it at your local liquor store or restaurant, simply ask for it,” Stam says. Head to AlmondBite.com to find additional recipes and locations to purchase. Madeline Crozier is a freelance writer and student based in Chicago. An Indianapolis native, she attends DePaul University as a graduate student in the Writing, Rhetoric and Discourse program.

Recipes Almond Bite and Edible Indy teamed up with Sous Chefs Eli Laidlaw and Erica Oakley of Plat 99 located in The Alexander Hotel in downtown Indianapolis to bring together the winter flavors in both cocktail and pastry form. Impress guests by making these recipes or treat yourself with a trip to Plat 99, where these are on the winter menu.

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Golden Bite Latte 1½ cups light coconut milk 1½ cups oat milk 1½ teaspoon ground turmeric 2 teabags chamomile tea 2 ounces Almond Bite Liqueur ½ teaspoon ground ginger 1 pinch black pepper 1 tablespoon coconut oil Sorghum to taste In a saucepan, combine all ingredients together except the sorghum. Stir and simmer on low for 3 minutes. Strain the mixture and taste, adding sorghum to your liking.

Fat Kick Flip 1 ounce Almond Bite Liqueur ½ ounce chai almond butter fat-washed rum (see recipe below) 1 ounce Fino Sherry ¾ ounce coffee syrup (see recipe below) 1 ounce cold brew coffee 1 whole egg (vegan substitute: 3 tablespoons drained canned chickpea liquid) 1 teaspoon heavy cream (vegan substitute: oat milk or hemp milk) Grated nutmeg Orange peel First, make the components: CHAI ALMOND BUTTER FAT-WASHED DARK RUM 1 cup over-proof dark rum ¼ cup Revival Chai almond butter Mix dark rum with almond butter in a freezer-safe container. Let the mixture sit at room temperature for 2 hours, shaking or stirring

every 30 minutes. Set in freezer for 1 hour (this makes it easier to strain). Pour mixture through a coffee filter. Discard the almond butter (or put it in your oatmeal for a wonderful surprise!). COFFEE SYRUP 1 cup brewed coffee 1 cup demerara sugar 1 cinnamon stick 3 orange peels (no white parts—these are bitter) 10 allspice berries Simmer all ingredients together in a pan until the sugar is dissolved. Let cook 1 more minute. Strain into a heatproof container and store in refrigerator. Then, make the drink: Measure all liquid ingredients into a shaker. Add egg and ice. Shake until very frothy, then strain into glass. Garnish with orange peel and grated nutmeg.

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Vegan Maple Apple Almond Scones Makes approximately 6 scones ½ cup all-purpose flour ¾ cup + 2 tablespoons cake flour ¼ cup smoked almond flour 1½ teaspoons baking powder 2 teaspoons baking soda 2 tablespoons brown sugar 1 tablespoon dried apple 2½ tablespoons maple syrup 1 teaspoon salt ½ cup + 1½ tablespoons coconut oil (grated) ¼ cup + 1 tablespoon oat milk (plus extra for baking) 2 tablespoons Almond Bite Liqueur ¼ cup + 3 tablespoons almond yogurt 2 tablespoons grated apple Sanding sugar or chunkier sugar (for garnish) Preheat oven to 350°F. Measure all ingredients and have everything close by. Sift flours with baking powder and baking soda. Add salt and brown sugar. Mix to combine. Add dried apples. 14

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Mix together wet ingredients (almond yogurt, almond liqueur, oat milk, grated apple and maple). Mix the cold grated coconut oil into the flour mixture. Don’t work it too much— you want there to be some pea-sized pieces of the coconut oil scattered throughout. Add the wet ingredients to the flour mixture. Use your hand to mix well. The colder everything is, the better this will work. Do not work the mixture into a smooth dough. There should still be pieces of coconut oil scattered throughout. Working the dough too much will make the scones too dense. Once your dough is holding together, turn out onto a floured table. Press the dough with your hands into a circle that is approximately 1½ to 2 inches tall. Flatten out the top. Cut into desired shape. Triangles are always good or try circles, squares or even Christmas trees. Place on parchment- or Silpat-lined pan and brush each scone with a light swath of oat milk. If you have

sanding sugar or chunkier sugar, sprinkle it on for extra crunch. Bake the scones for 20 minutes, or until they start to brown on the top and are fairly firm to the touch. Let cool slightly before eating. BONUS STEP: VEGAN GLAZE 1 cup powdered sugar 2 tablespoons oat milk 1 teaspoon vanilla 1 tablespoon maple syrup Stir all ingredients together to create a vegan glaze to top the scones. If it’s too thin, add more powdered sugar.

Chocolate Gingerbread Financier Makes 1 dozen 1¾ cups butter 1 cup brown sugar ½ cup molasses 4 eggs 2 tablespoons vanilla 2 cups almond flour 2½ cups cake flour ½ cup malted milk powder 2 teaspoons ground ginger 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon ½ teaspoon ground clove ½ cup cocoa powder ¼ cup chopped dark chocolate 4 teaspoons baking powder 2 teaspoons salt 2 cups sour cream ½ cup Almond Bite Liqueur Sanding sugar for the tops Preheat oven to 350°F. Brown the butter in a saucepan. Cool completely until it re-solidifies (popping it in the fridge works best). In a large bowl, sift all of the dry

ingredients together (flours, malted milk powder, spices and cocoa).

coming ¾ up the sides of the mold. Sprinkle tops with sanding sugar.

In the bowl of a stand mixer, place the browned butter, brown sugar and molasses. Fit with the paddle attachment and cream the mixture together until fluffy.

Bake for 18 to 20 minutes. The cakes will rise and firm slightly and be fairly crispy.

Add the eggs 1 by 1 with the mixer running on low. Add the vanilla. Beat mixture again and scrape down the sides of the bowl. In a separate small bowl, mix together the sour cream and Almond Bite Liqueur. With the mixer running on low, add about ⅓ of the flour mixture and beat until partially combined. Add ½ of the sour cream mixture and beat until just barely combined. Continue by adding another ⅓ of the flour mixture. Then, add the last ½ of the sour cream mixture and beat to combine. Add the remaining ⅓ of the flour mixture and any remaining sour cream mixture. Add the chopped chocolate and beat very lightly until just combined. Spray your favorite muffin mold with pan spray. Scoop in the gingerbread batter,

BONUS STEP: SALTED CARAMEL WHIPPED CREAM ½ cup sugar 2 tablespoons water 2 tablespoons butter 2⅔ cups heavy cream ½ teaspoon Maldon salt (big flaky salt) In a heavy-bottom saucepan, combine the sugar and water over high heat until golden brown, about 4 to 5 minutes. Reduce heat to low and slowly add the butter while stirring. Slowly drizzle in ⅔ cups heavy cream. Stir mixture until very smooth and the butter has melted. Remove from heat and whisk in salt. Allow to cool completely. Whisk the remaining 2 cups heavy cream to firm, stiff peaks. Then fold in the cooled caramel sauce.

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FARM

MONTROSE FARMS How one woman is living her dream while providing sanctuary for alpacas words: Melissa Smith | photography: Michael Schrader

hen Lori Lovely and her husband, Chris, bought and renovated what is now Montrose Farms in Brownsburg, Indiana, in 2007, they decided they should farm something. It was a big leap from their shared history in racing and world travel, but it was exactly where they wanted to be. “I don’t remember how we heard about alpacas, but we fell in love with them on our first visit,” Lori recalls. Her grandparents had been farmers, and she had lived on a small farm for a while. She had a different endgame in mind, however, for her farm. “I went vegetarian nearly 40 years ago, right after having a baby. Personally, I do not believe in killing and eating animals. I was delighted to find a way to farm responsibly and lovingly, with an end product that does not require [harm to animals].”

Building the Dream Together Lori and Chris might have been described as the perfect couple from the moment they met in the ʼ80s. “We’re project people,” said Lori. Farming proved the perfect project for them. Montrose Farms was a haven, and completely different from racing. They stayed active in both. In fact, Lori’s love of racing lives on in many an alpaca’s name: Jules Bianchi, Barbarella and Carlos Pace, to name a few. A few select alpacas are named after another very special man in Lori’s life—one who’s been an influence even longer than her husband. Though Lori can’t quite explain her lifelong adoration and devotion to to Freddie Mercury, lead singer of the band Queen, she credits him for helping her become a better person. He inspired the self-described “… little Midwestern white girl from a very strict family” to work in the gay community and volunteer at AIDS foundations. “Freddie was an awakening for me. He changed my life.” 16

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And, much like Freddie himself, her life has been anything but traditional. After earning a degree in history, Lori worked as a journalist for publications such as On Track, Racer and the Indianapolis Star. She started doing timing and scoring for Sports Car Club of America, then bought a Formula Super Vee and ran her own team. She met Chris, who worked as a mechanic, crew chief and eventually as a “gearbox guy,” through a mutual friend. It was love at first sight. For many years, “We ate, breathed and slept racing. We loved it so. But we also loved animals and wanted a retreat, so we bought this farm and began fixing it up.” Not ones to merely dabble, Lori and Chris learned everything there was to know about alpacas, of which there are two varieties: Huacayas and Suris, the latter of which Montrose Farms raises. Only one in 10 alpacas is a Suri. Suri alpaca fiber is luxuriously soft. It’s also hypoallergenic and warmer yet lighter weight than sheep’s wool.

Flying Solo Lori and Chris spent years renovating Montrose Farms and building their alpaca ranch. Finally, just when they were settling into their newfound dream life, the unthinkable happened: Chris was diagnosed with a terminal illness. Lori’s good friend Ingrid Newkirk, co-founder and president of PETA, sent vegan books and food and encouraged Chris to make the change to a 100% vegan diet. He did, overnight, and Lori joined him. “My only regret is that we did not do it sooner,” says Lori. After losing Chris, Lori’s dream life turned into an unimaginable abyss she had to navigate without her steadfast partner. Though many of her friends assumed she would sell the alpacas and the farm, Lori had no intention of doing so. She credits her beloved animals with getting her through that tough time. “The animals were the only reason I got out of bed.” With such a tender heart, it’s no surprise that Lori would never allow harm to come to any of her animals. When she sells one of her alpacas, she vets the buyers thoroughly and is careful with the contract language to ensure the animals remain protected.

Montrose Farms hosts alpaca yoga throughout the year. Visit their website for the schedule of activities. edibleINDY.com

Pictured are some of Lori’s favorite photos of her husband and herself.

Fortunately, alpacas in the United States are raised primarily for their fiber (for which they’ve been bred for thousands of years). A healthy alpaca’s lifespan is around 25 years, and it will produce good fiber for the majority of those years. Because alpacas are domesticated, they must be sheared every year. If they are not, their fleece will continue to grow, mat and cause health problems. “We take a lot of care during this [shearing] process,” Lori says. Lori and her team harvest the fleece themselves and sell many products at the farm, from fiber for spinning to socks, dryer balls, Teddy bears, stuffed alpacas and more.

Hang Out with Alpacas The great news is, it’s easy to book a Montrose Farms tour and see (and feel!) for yourself. You can attend one of the many events at the farm, from Alpaca Yoga to wine tasting, and even book a bed & breakfast stay through Expedia or Airbnb. Visitors with young ones will be happy to discover Lori extended her love for alpacas by writing a children’s book based on a true story of a blind baby alpaca on the farm. Available at the farm and Amazon.com, Isadora’s Dance illustrates the journey of overcoming fear and learning to trust and discovering joy in a life where differences don’t matter. Agritourists may be interested to discover that alpacas are a “green” animal. Their manure doesn’t burn, so it can be used immediately. They have no hooves, so they don’t tear up pastures. Lori has established a lovely pastoral retreat. There’s truly something for everyone. On your visit, expect to see pristine landscaping and a variety of both farmed and domestic animals. “There’s always something going on, and we are open to hosting a variety of events in the future.” Lori, a self-described ethical vegan, says, “Animals are my purpose in life. They ARE my life. There is so much life on the farm, and so much love.” There is no doubt that Lori Lovely lives up to her name. For events, information and more details on how you can enjoy the farm, visit MontroseFarms.com. Melissa Smith is an English teacher and animal lover in Indiana with a passion for plant-based food and good, clean living. She insists that diagramming sentences while eating an arugula salad is her idea of a good time. 18

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CRAFT

TABLES WITH TALES TO Tell Reclaiming history at Mercantile 37 words: Julie Yates | photography: Dave Takayoshi 20

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ables have always been at the heart of the Mercantile 37 building, which sits surrounded by farmland on Highway 37 near Atlanta, Indiana. When it was known as Scotty’s Inn in the 1940s, weary individuals trekking between Fort Wayne and Indianapolis appreciated the chance to share a table with other travelers, grab a bite of truck stop fare and sip coffee. In the ’70s through the ’90s, after most traffic was diverted to Interstate 69, it became Wheelers Inn and it was the locals who filled the tables as a favorite place to grab a burger and hang out after the game. Today, after years of sitting vacant, Mercantile 37 not only houses the reinvented Wheelers Café and Market but is also a showroom featuring vintage and handcrafted décor items from over 50 local makers. Part of the endeavor involves producing custom lighting, mantles and furniture, but a large focus is bespoke tables constructed from reclaimed wood. Each table is designed to meet the specifications for the families of the individuals who commission them. Owned by Nick Roudebush along with his wife, Emma, and his parents, it is a place rich in his family’s history. “Emma’s great-great-uncle Cecil Scott built the place in 1940 as Scotty’s Inn,” says Roudebush. “She grew up in the house next door and her family still farms all around the property. The building was vacant from 1999 to 2017, when we purchased it. The community holds a special place in its heart for the building. Wheelers is operated by our family friends Neal and Angie Fine. We are all one big family here.”

Reclaiming Wood Trained as a potter with a Master of Fine Arts degree in ceramics, Roudebush has always held an interest in the connection of food preparation, serving and the art of sharing a meal with others. Designing tables is a perfect complement to the pottery he fashions. His tables honor the past life of previously used wood by becoming pieces with new purpose. “We get our materials from a variety of sources— anywhere from local barns to inner-city Detroit salvage. Depending on the table, we are either telling a modern Indiana farmhouse story or something like a modern industrial story,” says Roudebush. “We also love to work with materials that have personal meaning for clients. We have used lumber cut from a client’s property, milled and dried, and have also used recycled materials from families’ barns or homes.” Top right: Nick Roudebush and his father J.R. Roudebush. The other photos show some of the beautiful creations both sold at the store and created by hand. edibleINDY.com

The beautiful yet functional tables can be used with different seating options. Some have reproduced industrial bases with working cranks that adjust the height of the table as high as bar level. The tops are protected with seven coats of translucent finish so remnants of the original paint and usage history shine through. “What I am most drawn to are the stories these materials tell through marks left on their surfaces. Not only are the materials beautiful and interesting to look at, but there also exists a richness in reclaimed materials that we can’t find in something new,” says Roudebush. “This richness becomes a way to connect to and interact with the product and the people we are using it with—a kind of bridge for human interaction.”

Reinforcing Love For Andrea Westphal, owning a table built by Roudebush was the result of a desire to entertain multiple guests comfortably. As the mom of a toddler, she wanted a space for family meals but also the ability to accommodate friends on the spur of a moment. She became aware that Mercantile 37 produced custom tables after admiring the ones she saw in Wheelers Café. “It fit the bill of what I was looking for. We live in a throwaway society, and I wanted something that would last and had a history behind it. And, I never realized how intimate eating can be until becoming a mom and why having a table is so important,” says Westphal. “During our family meals we talk about our days and the conversations we have reinforce our love for one another.” Roudebush agrees: “Sharing a meal at a table is a sacred act between family and friends where stories are shared and memories are created. Reclaimed materials seem to reinforce this idea, causing us to slow down and become more aware of what we are doing and who we are doing it with.” Mercantile 37 | 25625 IN-37 | Atlanta | 765.734.1683 | Mercantile37.com Julie Yates is a freelance writer and food blogger from Fishers. She enjoys sharing the stories of individuals who pursue culinary-related experiences. Visit her blogs at YatesYummies.com and OrangesAndAlmonds.com or on social media @YatesYummies. Mercantile 37 sees the importance of details and the story behind what they create. 22

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Winter 2019

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TOGETHER THEY RISE

Perk Up Café owners produce breads and pastries with a German flavor words: Amy Lynch | photography: Katherine Costello

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Winter 2019

or Perk Up Café co-owners Jeanette Footman (a native of Berlin, Germany) and Alice Matsuo (of BrazilianJapanese heritage), a beloved German tradition wasn’t just a way to make new friends. It also led to a successful business partnership. A self-taught baker, Jeanette moved to Indianapolis with her Hoosier husband in 1995. Unable to find the authentic pastries of her homeland in her new hometown, she launched her own baking business, selling her products through farmers markets and other local outlets. Perk Up Café became a customer, giving Jeanette the opportunity to showcase her wares during kaffeeklatsch events each Sunday afternoon. “Kaffeeklatsch is a German word that means getting together with friends and gossiping over coffee,” she explains. “Many of the people who attend are German, but our overall team, our baristas and our customers are a very diverse group.” By the time Alice moved to Indianapolis from Wuppertal, Germany, with her husband in 2008, she was familiar with the kaffeeklatsch concept, and looked forward to checking out the one she heard about in Broad Ripple. Meeting Jeanette seemed almost predestined. The women hit it off immediately and decided to join professional forces when Jeanette discovered that Alice (a chemist by trade) is a certified German artisan baker, having completed an intensive three-year apprenticeship after falling in love with German breads while living in Wuppertal. “We had to educate customers about what artisan bread was, and explain that it was actually healthy for them,” Alice recalls. “Most people at that time were only familiar with the mass-produced, pre-sliced, pre-packaged bread they bought at the supermarket.” “German people eat more bread than any other country in the world,” Jeanette adds. “There are a lot of Germans who move here and want good, dense German bread; we get a lot of orders for our 100% wholegrain loaves.

Taking Ownership Jeanette and Alice took ownership of Perk Up 10 years ago, churning out small batches of baguettes, other breads, cheesecakes, muffins and pastries from the café’s tiny commercial kitchen for the café, farmers markets, special orders and a booth at the annual Christkindlmarkt in Carmel. “Sometimes we surprise ourselves with what we’re able to produce,” Alice says. “In the beginning, we would bake constantly, starting at 2 a.m. and working overnight. Now, we start Friday evening for our farmers market supply and we also bake for the shop several days a week.” “It’s a lot of moving around in a small space,” Jeanette says. Both Alice and Jeanette name German bread rolls (broetchen) as one of their favorite items to make. Although the ingredients are fairly simple and the recipe isn’t hard to follow, unpredictable factors can affect the baking process, making it difficult to achieve a perfect result. “So much depends on the room temperature, the daily humidity and other outside influences,” Alice explains. “When the rolls come out of the oven and start to cool, we say they’re ‘singing’ as the surfaces cracks a bit. When we get them right, that’s when we’re the happiest.” To complement the breads and pastries, Perk Up employs a manually operated Victoria Arduino espresso machine for coffee drinks created from fair-trade, organic beans roasted in house. “There are no buttons and no automation,” Jeanette says. “The measuring, the tamping and pulling the lever by hand all affect the quality of the espresso. It makes a big difference and depends totally on the skill of the barista. It’s something our Italian customers really appreciate.” 6536 Cornell Ave. | 317.251.0033 | PerkUpIndy.com Amy Lynch is an Indianapolis-based freelance writer specializing in food and regional travel.

Opposite: Co-owner Jeanette Footman and the adorable place where Perk Up is housed on the Monon Trail. Not pictured is co-owner Alice Matsuo.

edibleINDY.com

Bee Sting Cake

(Bienenstich)

Recipe by Jeanette Footman and Alice Matsuo One of the delectable treats customers might find during the weekly Perk Up kaffeeklatsch is a traditional German Bee Sting Cake, a sweet, yeasted delicacy with vanilla cream filling crusted with honey and sliced almonds. Note: Weighing your ingredients often gives better results in baking. Most kitchen scales include both metric and U.S./imperial measurements. Yield: 1 (15- by 11-inch) cake form FOR THE DOUGH

375 grams (3.2 ounces) flour 15 grams (0.5 ounce) dry yeast 65 grams (2.2 ounces) sugar 1 pinch salt 1 egg 200 milliliters (7 ounces) lukewarm milk 50 grams (1.8 ounces) melted butter (cooled) FOR THE TOPPING

275 grams (9.7 ounces) sliced almonds 150 grams (5.3 ounces) butter 90 grams (3.2 ounces) sugar 3 tablespoons honey 3 tablespoons liquid whipping cream FOR THE FILLNG

1 liter (35.2 ounces) milk 4 egg yolks 200 grams (7 ounces) sugar 8 tablespoons cornstarch 1 pinch salt 400 grams (14.1 ounces) butter, room temperature

According to one German legend, the name of this cake came about when its honey topping attracted some bees that stung the baker who was baking it. No one really knows, but it is fun to speculate.

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Winter 2019

Mix all ingredients and knead first at lowest speed in mixer with a dough hook (speed 2) and then for 5 minutes on highest speed (speed 4) to reach a soft doughy consistency. Leave dough covered in a warm area until volume has doubled. For the topping, slowly heat butter, sugar, honey and heavy whipping cream on the stove top while stirring constantly until just boiled; then stir in sliced almonds. Quickly knead the dough by hand on a floured surface, then roll out to fit into a 15- by 11-inch pan. Line the cake form with baking paper (for easy removal of cake), put the dough in the form and

spread the topping evenly over the dough. Bake in a preheated oven at 350°F (temperature and time might vary depending on oven) for 20 to 25 minutes, until the top is golden brown. For the filling, heat the milk in a pot, reserving 7 tablespoons. Add the sugar, egg yolks, cornstarch and salt to the reserved milk, mix well and add to the milk in the pot when it comes to a boil. Remove from heat and stir, then bring to a boil again. Let cool to room temperature, then cream the butter in a separate bowl and add it to the filling slowly until thoroughly combined. When the cake has cooled, slice through horizontally and fill with the pudding cream. Replace the top layer and cut into squares with an electric knife for serving. Or pre-slice the top layer of cake into squares with a serrated knife and place back on top of the pudding layer to make the cake easier to slice and serve.

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photography: Jennifer L. Rubenstein

A Swedish Jul (Christmas) with Hannah Lindgren “Not only have I kept the traditions alive, but I feel like I really am Swedish.”

words: Charity Singleton Craig | photography: Hiedi Nguyen

s the winter holiday season approaches, Hannah Lindgren does what a lot of us do: She pulls out heirloom decorations and stocks up on ingredients for family recipes. Yet for the Indianapolis-based filmmaker, Christmas doesn’t mean Santa figurines and sugar cookies. Instead, Hannah dusts off the Julbocken (Christmas goat), and bakes fragrant batches of pepparkakor, or ginger cookies (see recipe on page 32), sentimental symbols of her Swedish heritage. “For me, 95% of my Christmas decorations are Swedish, because that’s Christmas to me,” says Hannah, 28, a producer at The Story Shop in Pendleton. “Instead of Santa Clauses I have Jultomtens [Swedish Father Christmas] or I have Dala horses [traditional carved horse statues]. All these things mean Christmas to me because that’s what I grew up with.”

A Swe dis h Herit age

For most of her life, Hannah has had a keen awareness of her Swedishness, which comes to her through her father’s side of the family. Her dad is of 100% Swedish heritage, which makes her half Swedish. Grandparents on one side of her dad’s family and great-grandparents on the other emigrated from Sweden, “but they all lived within this close-knit Swedish community, and they just kept marrying fellow Swedes,” she explains. Because her dad grew up in an environment where his mother spoke Swedish with her parents, “[their culture] was still just very present, which I feel is rarer and rarer unless you’re a first-generation immigrant.” Over the years, both Hannah’s parents, Jim Lindgren and Brenda Myers, have been instrumental in passing along all things Swedish—Jim through his interest in genealogy, and Brenda, who’s not Swedish, by taking up the mantle of preserving family recipes and traditions. “Mom saw how important it was to my dad’s family, and so she made sure that it was a part of our lives from the beginning,” Hannah says. Take Christmas, for instance. Hannah’s family spent the holiday with Jim’s side of the family most years. “Christmas to me was just equated with being Swedish,” she says. “It was about the smorgasbord, it was about meatballs. When I was a kid it was about all these weird foods I didn’t want to eat, like potato sausage and pickled herring. All these things were totally unappealing to me, but they were just ever-present, especially with holidays.”

C e l ebrat ing St . Lucia’ s Da y

Whereas Christmas itself was spent with her extended family, most years Hannah and her relatives celebrated St. Lucia’s Day, or the Festival of Lights, with the local SVEA Lodge No. 253 of the Vasa Order of America, a Swedish American fraternal organization, to which Jim has belonged since Hannah was a young girl. “My entire life that also has been present, this community of Swedes, and mostly that presented itself when I was a kid at the two major Swedish holidays,” Hannah says. “My year always had Midsommar in the middle of the year and Lucia Day to start the Christmas season, and those were celebrated with the lodge.” St. Lucia’s Day falls on December 13, the winter solstice, or the shortest (and darkest) day of the year, according to the old Julian calendar. (The Gregorian calendar we use today places the solstice on December 21 or 22.) The festival is named after St. Lucia, a young girl martyred for her Christian faith, Opposite: Hannah Lindgren wearing the traditional St. Lucia outfit holding a tray of saffron buns. edibleINDY.com

who according to legend wore candles on her head so she could use her hands to carry food to orphans. Lucia, from the Latin lux, also means light. At home, Swedes commemorate St. Lucia’s Day with the oldest girl in the family baking breads and pastries and serving them to her family. But the holiday also is recognized publicly. At the local SVEA Lodge No. 253, the celebration is a community affair, with the lodge choosing one girl each year to be their St. Lucia. Girls typically are chosen around the age of 15, but since there isn’t always a 15-year-old among the members, girls also just age into the role. Hannah was 11 when her turn came. “It was always a big deal when you became old enough and you were the next Lucia,” Hannah explains. “Your family gets a table of honor. Even family from Vintage photographs of the Lindgren family celebrating Swedish traditions and Christmas together. my mom’s side came.” As St. Lucia, Hannah wore a white robe and a wreath of candles on her head. She led the procession into the lodge, followed by the other children: Lucia’s helpers, girls dressed in white and each holding a single candle, and Stjäerngossen, or Star Boys, wearing pointed hats and carrying star wands. Once on stage, the children recited passages and sang traditional songs before the whole lodge feasted on Julbord, or Swedish Christmas smorgasbord.

Em b r ac ing Sw e dis h Cult ure

Swedish tradition is not just a childhood relic or something her parents care about, though. Hannah now embraces the culture herself, a development that began with food. After being diagnosed with a digestive disorder in college, Hannah began to think about food differently. She began eating more locally, eliminating certain types of foods and cooking more at home. As food became more of passion for her, she found herself gravitating toward Swedish foods and flavors. “I love the classic Midsommar meal: Knäckerbröd, a flat crackery bread, with a spread and some smoked salmon. I love fish, and I love the smoked flavor. I love the dill flavors and the pickling: pickled cucumbers, pickled beets, pickled fish, pickled everything,” Hannah says. “The Swedish meatballs from Christmas smorgasbord also are seasoned interestingly, and I love the cinnamons, the nutmegs, the cardamoms. Those are all flavors I really like.” Hannah also recently became a member of SVEA Lodge No. 253 herself and even serves on the board. Last year, she helped organize and produce a Swedish cookbook as a fundraiser for the lodge. They gathered 60 recipes from several different families, including recipes for foods that Swedish Americans rarely make at home anymore (see recipes on page 32). “It was interesting to see recipes for a lot of the things we now buy from Ikea instead of making, like limpa, which is a type of bread, or pickled herring,” she says. “People used to pickle the herring themselves.” But even more than what Hannah does, being Swedish is an important part of who she is. “The last time I went to Sweden, over and over again I got mistaken for being a local. That just makes me happy,” Hannah says. “Not only have I kept the traditions alive, but I feel like I really am Swedish. It’s always been part of my identity.”

Charity Singleton Craig is the author of The Art of the Essay: From Ordinary Life to Extraordinary Words, coauthor of On Being a Writer: 12 Simple Habits for a Writing Life that Lasts and a contributor to The Wonder Years: 40 Women over 40 on Aging, Faith, Beauty and Strength. You can find her online at CharitySingletonCraig.com.

edible INDY

Winter 2019

Wha t’s on a Jul bor d ?

A traditional Julbord, or Swedish Christmas smorgasbord, is loaded with the rich, hearty foods of winter. Here are a few of the dishes that show up on the Julbord of Hannah Lindgren’s family. Dill potatoes

Limpa with butter

Prinzkorv, or prince sausage

Kaffe Bulla, Swedish coffee bread

Lingonberry Sauce

Saffron Buns

Kanelbulle

Lutefisk

Glögg (see recipe)

Pepparkakor (see recipe)

Swedish Brown Beans (see exclusive online recipe at EdibleIndy.com)

Gravy

Pickled herring

Swedish meatballs

Glögg

Kaffe Bulla

Pepparkakor

edibleINDY.com

Pepparkako r (Ginger Snaps) By Ruth Öst This is a classic cookie served during the Julbord and throughout the Christmas season. Makes approximately 80 cookies ½ pound butter, melted 1½ cups sugar 2 tablespoons dark Karo syrup 1 egg 1½ teaspoons baking soda 2 teaspoons cinnamon 1 teaspoon ginger 1 teaspoon cloves 2½ cups flour Mix together butter, sugar, syrup and egg. Separately, sift together baking soda, cinnamon, ginger, cloves and flour. Add dry mix slowly to wet mix. Divide dough into 4 portions and refrigerate at least 1 hour. Preheat oven to 325°. Using 1 portion at a time, work on a floured surface and roll dough to ⅛ inch thick. Cut in shapes with cookie cutters and place on cookie sheets. Bake for 10–15 minutes. Ruth Öst is the grandmother of Katie Blodgett, a friend of Hannah Lindgren’s who also traces her roots back to Sweden. Hannah’s mother, Carin, submitted this recipe to the Swedish cookbook that Hannah helped compile and produce for the local SVEA Lodge No. 253 of the Vasa Order of America. 32

edible INDY

Winter 2019

Glögg—the O ld Swedish Way (Mulled Wine)

By Brenda Myers and Jim Lindgren Glögg is a favorite Swedish beverage during the Christmas holiday. Be sure to eat the nuts and fruit at the bottom of the cup when you’re done drinking. Yield: approximately 20 cups 2 orange peels ⅓ teaspoon cloves 10 cardamom pods, broken up 4 cinnamon sticks, broken up 1 gallon good port wine 1½ cups raisins ½ cup whole blanched almonds 1 pint 190-proof grain alcohol 2 cups sugar, or to taste Using a small saucepan and enough water to cover the ingredients, boil the orange peel, cloves, cardamom and cinnamon in a cloth bag for 40 minutes. Strain into a large pan. Squeeze out bag thoroughly.

Pour wine into the large pan, add raisins and almonds and bring to a boil. Add alcohol and sugar and let this come to a boil. Turn off the heat and let stand until cool. When cool, strain out the raisins and almonds, placing them in a jar and then into the refrigerator. When ready to serve, put a few raisins and an almond or 2 in the bottom of each cup. Heat the glögg but do not let it come to a boil. Pour into cups and serve. Brenda Myers and Jim Lindgren are Hannah Lindgren’s parents. They submitted this recipe to the Swedish cookbook that Hannah helped compile and produce for the local SVEA Lodge No. 253 of the Vasa Order of America.

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Steps Saved Stepping Back in Time A personal narrative exploring the Indiana history and impact in kitchen design and culture words: Claire Trost | photography: Indiana Historical Society

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Winter 2019

Mrs. F.T. Noeson, Bear Lake, Pennsylvania: “I have no piece of furniture in my well equipped home that helps as much to make the housework easy as my Hoosier Cabinet. My baking days are enjoyed instead of dreaded. Everything is at hand ready for use and it is a pleasure and satisfaction to use them.” —From The Hoosier Cabinet in Kitchen History by Nancy R. Hiller

arly in 2019, I paged through a recent issue of Food and Wine—turning the pages quickly, occasionally noting something delicious and speed reading through the intricate recipe, retaining nothing. Until one word caught my eye. “Hoosier.” The article, “Why Kitchen Islands Rule,” shared decor tips, upgrades and even a nod to the Kardashians as a part of the wild popularity of a kitchen island today. It also included a sidebar highlighting the history of the kitchen island. The claim was that today’s kitchen islands evolved from the Hoosier cabinet, popular in the early 1900s. “Do they mean Indiana Hoosier,” I wondered. I pulled out my phone and, sure enough, it was Indiana’s own moniker gracing the pages of Food and Wine and—evidently—shaping today’s kitchen. The cabinet was thought to be the first kitchen workstation, full of storage for equipment, ingredients and plenty of prep space, allowing the home cook to stay in one place. The “Hoosier” nickname arose because the New Castle–based Hoosier Manufacturing Company was one of the first and largest producers of the cabinets. These cabinets were so popular that it was believed that in 1920, one in 10 homes had one. More curiosity set in and continued to simmer as summer arrived. While reading The Library Book by The New Yorker reporter Susan Orlean, I was reminded that a library houses more than books. It also houses a community’s heart, soul and history. The library. Of course. I freed up an afternoon and took the trip downtown to explore the Indiana Historical Society’s William H. Smith Library. What I figured would be interesting turned out to be magical. In the library’s collection, I touched 100-year-old pages from sales trainings and brochures from the Hoosier Manufacturing Company. Delicate documents that highlighted the different models of cabinets and all they could do. I reviewed the many advertisements that were printed in the cabinet’s heyday in the Sears Roebuck & Co catalog, Ladies’ Home Journal and Good Housekeeping. These ads featured strategy and messaging that was cutting edge for the time and shaped much of marketing today. I even let out an amused laugh when I read about the “Hoosier Council of Kitchen Scientists,” a group of women with titles such as “Household Consultant” designed to aid the everyday cook with the use of her Hoosier cabinet. Basically, the influencers of the turn of the century. edibleINDY.com

In Bloomington woodworker and writer Nancy R. Hiller’s book The Hoosier Cabinet in Kitchen History, published by Indiana University Press in 2009, I stepped in to the kitchen of the homemaker of the turn of the century. Simple spaces, yet complicated as cellars kept food cool, kitchen gardens kept food fresh, pantries kept equipment clean and all of this kept the cook on her feet. But also in Hiller’s beautiful use of scholarly narrative, I stepped into the homemaker’s shoes. Her wants and needs were not all that different from the modern homemaker’s: The demands in and outside the house were many. There were kids, husbands and communities that needed her. The kitchen was a woman’s province, but it was highly physical, highly invisible and she needed a hack to make her life in the kitchen easier. So well over a decade before the Instant Pot and meal delivery kits, the Hoosier cabinet saved time and steps to aid in getting meals on the table more efficiently. Leaving the museum’s library, I fought the urge to hug each of the librarians who had assisted me that day. Their devotion to history—Indiana’s in particular—helped bring it to life. However, there was someone else that needed a “Thanks.” And so the final part of my Hoosier cabinet odyssey led me to a phone call to Hiller, the author of the book that took me to another place and introduced me to the housewife of that time. She delighted me with a fun, quick conversation as I shared how her book taught me so much more than just what a Hoosier cabinet is. She taught me all the nuance, culture and history packed into its drawers: Part women’s liberation, part man’s innovation. Part style, part function. Part further driving the “oppressive” nature of kitchen work, part bringing the kitchen to the center of the home. Hiller, a cabinet maker in Bloomington, stressed she is more an expert on period kitchens and doesn’t work on Hoosier cabinets in her cabinetry work today, but told me she, obviously, enjoys them. “They are like a giant toy,” she says, “a wonderful expression of what was going on [at the time] culturally and scientifically.” A time when the nation was fixated on efficiency and women were just beginning to be called out of what were once traditional roles. Thinking of the housewife of the 1900s while preparing dinner that evening, I glanced down to the herbs and vegetables on my cutting board from our wanna-be kitchen garden, a garden that is a hobby of mine in my attempt to live a little slower in this still efficiency-obsessed culture. But, then I looked up. My husband was across from me, putting together burgers for the grill. Our two small children, together on a step stool, were splashing at the kitchen sink. (Or, as they like to believe, “helping.”) All of us, together, around the kitchen island. Our kitchen workstation and the center of our home. All thanks to her, and the Hoosier cabinet. Claire Trost is a writer and Edible Indy’s director of development. She also owns and operates Bent Arrow Acres, a sustainable farm connecting families to farming, food and each other through great meals. Find Claire at @clairetrost and the farm at @bentarrowacres. Historical photography and quotes courtesy of the Indiana Historical Society and The Hoosier Cabinet in Kitchen History by Nancy R. Hiller.

edible INDY

Winter 2019

A 1900s Kitchen The kitchen began to be a more important room in the home, but without cabinetry the homemaker logged many steps. The first Hoosier cabinets were called “Step Savers” in hopes of bringing popular obsession with efficiency on the farm and in the workplace into the home so all the kitchen “things” were together. The cabinet was well organized and featured a place for everything. Spices, baking needs, equipment, even shopping lists, conversion charts and meal planners were found on the inside of the cabinet’s doors. The Hoosier cabinet’s success was thanks to the changing times in homemaking, but, also innovative sales and advertising. The Hoosier Manufacturing Company saw the opportunity to capitalize on the interest of the general public and established a network of dealers that sold directly to customers with the support of captivating print ads. Their annual advertising budget was $200,000.

Hoosi er Roots It is believed that by 1920 the Hoosier Manufacturing Company, based out of New Castle, made and sold 2 million Hoosier cabinets, producing upwards of 700 per day. Other firms in Indiana such as G.I. Sellers in Elwood and Coppes Brothers and Zook in Napanee did well in the years Hoosier cabinets were a standard. A Fal l From Fash ion Yet the Hoosier cabinet’s popularity began to decline around 1930 due to the Depression and, eventually, the rise in built-in kitchen cabinets. Though today’s homemaker doesn’t need a Hoosier cabinet to do all that it once could, Hiller shared they can still be a great work surface and element of décor, but cautioned to be prepared for their size. Copious wall and floor space will be needed for this large, historical piece of furniture.

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SUSTAINABILITY FOR THE REAL WORLD How this no-waste Indiana facility is changing the future of farming words: Shauna L. Nosler | graphic redesign: Caryn Scheving

MATERIAL RECEIVING

FORAGE CROP PRODUCTION

LIVESTOCK PRODUCTION

APPLICATION

ANAEROBIC DIGESTION NATURAL FERTILIZER PRODUCTION AND WATER RECYCLING POWER GENERATION

ustainability. It’s one of the most talked about topics across all industries and a hot-button issue for politicians, educators, environmentalists and just about any and everyone with a pulse. But, what is sustainable? As it turns out, the definition varies from group to group, and when it comes to agriculture, what’s considered a sustainable practice for one commodity—say soybean or corn production—can be vastly different than it is on a dairy farm or cattle ranch. According to BeefResearch.org and the Beef Checkoff program [part of the 1985 Farm Bill], the beef industry defines sustainability as “meeting growing global demand for beef by balancing environmental responsibility, economic opportunity and social diligence throughout the supply chain.” And here in Indiana, on a 125-acre farm about 90 minutes northwest of Indianapolis, Bio Town Ag is doing just that.

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Winter 2019

Technology and the Environment Bio Town Ag, a livestock farm in Reynolds, runs off an operating model that they say is both environmentally sound and financially stable. A typical multigenerational Midwest farm on paper, they’ve been in business since 1980 and for nearly three decades have dedicated themselves to implementing the kinds of technological advances that they claim enhance the sustainability of their livestock operations, while also working to eliminate environmental impacts of past agricultural production processes. But just how does that work? Bio Town Ag President Brian Furrer explains how they’re working to turn animal waste into energy and why sustainable farming is so important for our future. Edible Indy: Was there a pivotal point when you started thinking it’s time to be (more) aware of the environment and what sustainable farming really means?

Brian Furrer: There was a point early in the farm’s life when we recognized certain products were being underutilized. Essentially, a lot of really great feed material was being sent to a landfill. Unfortunately, this waste or byproduct [such as distiller’s grain; the part of the kernel of corn left after ethanol is produced from corn and husklage; the shucks from seed corn plants when corn is harvested for seed] can have negative connotations when, in reality, its nutrients are great for cattle. EI: Is it fair to say your goal is to have a zerofootprint operation? BF: Our goal as a farm is to continually lower our footprint. We still have to purchase the byproducts, but we have become extremely intentional on what we are bringing on the farm and how we are feeding our animals. It’s our objective to pull as many organic products away from a landfill and recycle them into beneficial products. EI: What differentiates you from others? BF: Besides the vitamins and minerals that we give our cattle, everything we do is unique. Every day our cattle get the prescribed amount of substances and the rest of their intake is our very own byproduct mixture. We don’t grow anything for our cattle to eat, but actually find the products that other companies want to throw away and make better use of it. In our ecosystem, we bring in the byproduct, feed the byproduct to the cattle, take the cattle’s waste and extract energy from the waste that is used in our generators for energy. EI: What are some of the biggest ways that define what you’re doing as sustainable? BF: Bio Town Ag is the largest on-farm producer of electricity from waste in the world. We have methane digesters on site that take our cattle’s waste and create energy—something that no other farm is doing. Our farm puts twice as much energy on Northern Indiana Public Service Company power lines as Reynolds consumes. On the front and back end of what we do, we are feeding our cattle and taking waste processing to a whole new level. EI: Is sustainability the key to the future of farming? BF: When I was 10 years old, I started my first job on a farm cleaning pigs for 10 cents. Having been involved in agriculture for my entire life, I see plenty of opportunity. The problem with opportunities is that they come with a lot of hard work. When I walk through the grocery store, everything is so different than how agriculture was 40 years ago. We now have so many unique products including items that are categorized as organic and GMO, something that wasn’t necessarily prevalent back then. If you want to be a large-scale

Managing Our Trash Worldwide, waste is a problem. But it’s not news. At least not here in the U.S. Nearly 30 years ago, January 23, 1980, in his State of the Union Address, President Carter urged Americans to take heed: “As individuals and as families, few of us can produce energy by ourselves,” he said. “But all of us can conserve energy—every one of us, every day of our lives. Tonight I call on you—in fact, all the people of America—to help our nation. Conserve energy. Eliminate waste.” So we’ve known. Some might even say we were warned and failed to act—failed to heed the call to waste less and conserve more. But, while it’s true that we’ve been slow to take action, the good news is recycling is at an all-time high. The bad news, so is trash production. With exception of recession years, municipal solid waste (MSW) rose from 88.1 million tons in 1960 to 262.4 million tons in 2015—increasing from 2.68 pounds per person per day to 4.48. [YIKES!!] Each year, consumers throw away 16 billion diapers, 1.6 billion pens, 2 billion razor blades, 220 million car tires and enough aluminum to rebuild the U.S. commercial air fleet four times over. The highest amount of MSW generation, 25.9%, is from paper and paperboard products—but it’s on a decline: in 2005 we threw away 84.8 million tons; in 2015, 68.1 million tons … which is great ... But, conversely, MSW plastics generation grew from 8.2% in 1990 to 13.1% in 2015. In 1960, roughly 6% of MSW was recycled; in 1980, 16%; in 2000, 29%; in 2015, over 34%. Similarly, in 1960 no MSW was combusted for energy production; in 2015, nearly 13% was. In 1960, 94% of MSW went to landfills; by 2015 it was less than 53%. Today, nationwide, 35% of MSW is recycled, 13% combusted for energy production—an all-time high in the U.S. Here in Indiana … Per capita, the Hoosier State produces the sixth-highest amount of landfill waste. Of the total, 16.7% is from plastics, the highest level in the country. Clearly, these numbers are shocking, but MSW only accounts for a small percentage of total waste. According to the World Bank’s “What a Waste” global database (2018), in developed countries nearly one third of generated waste is attributed to the building sector, with the construction industry being the “largest culprit, generating more than 90% of the total waste produced in a country.” Even so, you, we, us … as an individual, you can help. What can you do … •

Invest in products that last longer and repair before you discard.

•

Make a meal plan and shop for what you need, not what you don’t.

•

Don’t buy single-use plastics.

•

Cut back on junk mail subscriptions.

•

When possible, buy in bulk and be cautious of excess packaging.

•

Don’t use paper plates.

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Donate what can be reused or repurposed.

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Take your own reusable bags to the grocery.

•

Learn how to compost.

•

Recycle. Recycle. Recycle.

And don’t be afraid to call out your neighbor or friend who doesn’t recycle … it starts with you! edibleINDY.com

The Process: Putting animal waste to good use Recycling animal waste to make methane gas and using it to power three generators that produce 4.5 million watts of electricity per hour [enough power to run 45,000 light bulbs], isn’t easy. Nor is finding ways to repurpose byproduct into useful materials. But, at Bio Town Ag, they’ve narrowed down a process that does both those things and more. Here’s how they make animal waste into good: •

Commodity beef and pork products yield food and fiber as they produce manure for the digester.

•

In the digester, manure and other organic byproducts from industrial companies are “cooked” to produce methane gas and solid materials.

•

The generators use the methane gas to produce electricity that goes on the grid.

•

Liquid organic fertilizer from the digester gets applied to farm fields, replenishing the micronutrients that are not available in commercial NPK fertilizer.

•

Water from the digester can provide irrigation for plants.

•

Some of the solids from the digester become bedding for cattle.

•

Other solids from the digester become potting soil for retail gardening outlets.

The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency refers to municipal solid waste (MSW) as “various items consumers throw away after they are used,” such as “bottles and corrugated boxes, food, grass clippings, sofas, computers, tires and appliances,” but does not include “construction and demolition debris, municipal wastewater sludge, and other non-hazardous industrial wastes.”

farmer, I can see individuals having a lot of trouble. But, if you want to be unique with what you’re investing your time in, I believe that you will find plenty of opportunity. EI: How difficult is it to be a sustainable farming operation? BF: Creating a sustainable farm can be difficult, but everything you do boils down to energy and commitment. As we look into the future of farming, I believe that being unsustainable will not be an option. EI: Why aren’t more farms taking this approach? BF: There are a lot of farms trying to take a sustainable approach, but everything takes time. For five years, I was constantly researching and studying every angle of sustainability before I broke ground on our initiatives. We’ve had people from all over the world visit our farm and while we are not perfect, I always know we’re doing something right when others want to imitate us. Interested in visiting the farm? Find out how at BioTownAg.com, and learn more about this innovative Indiana farming operation. To help support the farm, keep a lookout for Bio Town Ag products, sold under the Legacy Maker brand, at Moody’s Butcher Shop and Market District. A freelance journalist and Edible Indy’s editor-at-large, Shauna L. Nosler hails from the Pacific Northwest but now calls Indianapolis home. A fledgling pescatarian and novice yogi, she believes everyone has a responsibility to waste less and conserve more. Read more of her work at ShaunaNosler.com or visit her blog, SeafoodIsTheNewBlack.com, where she writes about healthy oceans and cooks up sustainable seafood recipes.

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Winter 2019

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COMING 2020 TO BOTTLEWORKS INDY

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edible reader survey TALK TO US We want to hear from you! Take our reader survey this month and we’ll send you a beautiful Edible ebook of our favorite seasonal recipes for free. Type this link into your browser to participate:

ediblecommunities.com/survey The survey is being conducted by GfK MRI, an independent research firm. All responses are confidential. 44

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eat drink & explore

LOCAL Supporting local builds and nourishes communities. It forges relationships and allows us to celebrate our growers, producers, artisans and advocates. Edible Indy believes in this celebration. Our readers and followers care deeply about understanding where the products they purchase come from and how their support makes a difference one dollar and one life at a time.

We partner with these local businesses in an effort to share their dedication to local with those who want to join us in this way of life. Interested in benefiting from our guide? Contact sales@edibleindy.com

AUBERGE Located at The Brick Street Inn, right on the bricks of Main Street in Zionsville. A relaxed, elegant setting for modern French cuisine. Seasonal local ingredients, extensive French wine list, local craft beers, seasonal cocktail menu. Lunch, dinner and weekend brunch. Enjoy family nights or date nights on the sought-after terrace or in the cozy dining room.

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Winter 2019

19 N. Indiana | Greencastle BridgesWineBar.com

175 S. Main St. | Zionsville Auberge-Restaurant.com

HARRY & IZZY’S We’re proud to keep it local! Three restaurants sourcing locally from 10 regional farms, four breweries and seven locally owned purveyors or producers leads to one great meal. Downtown Indianapolis 153 S. Illinois St. Northside Indianapolis 4050 E. 82nd St. Indianapolis Airport 7800 Col. Weir Cook Memorial Dr. HarryAndIzzys.com

REDUX A casual contemporary restaurant and wine bar with a convenient location on the Northeast side of Carmel. Our farm-to-table menu features “New American Cuisine” dishes presented with a flair of local seasonal ingredients. Choose from 40+ wines from around the world or one of our many craft brews. 14560 River Rd. | Carmel ReduxRestaurant.com

BRIDGES WINE BAR Handcrafted Neapolitan-style pizzas, scratch-made pasta and bread, farm-to-table specialties and a spectacular selection of craft cocktails and international wines. A destination worth the drive.

THE LOFT Dine at a true farmstead restaurant, located inside a beautiful historic barn on an organic dairy farm. Food grown and raised on-site takes center place on organic menus shaped by seasonal rhythms. Open for lunch, dinner and Sunday brunch. 9101 Moore Rd. | Zionsville TradersPointCreamery.com

ROOSTER’S KITCHEN Our kitchen menu changes seasonally with the local producers while keeping the staples. Mama’s brisket, mac-n-cheese and fresh crisp pork rinds hit the spot while our draft kombucha bar, mocktails and craft beer will quench your thirst. 888 Massachusetts Ave. Indianapolis RoostersIndy.com

THE GARDEN TABLE BURGER STUDY Expand your perception of what a burger can be at this premium, fullservice burger restaurant and bar. We are locally owned and pride ourselves on serving premium burgers crafted from the bestquality Midwest prime beef and other locally sourced ingredients. We feature craft cocktails, beer and wine. 28 W. Georgia St. | Indianapolis BurgerStudy.com

TAZIKI’S CAFE A perfect lunch or dinner option located at Keystone Crossing in Indianapolis. A locally owned and operated franchised cafe offering a fresh farm to table Mediterranean menu with beer and wine in a quick and convenient manner. 4025 E. 82nd St. | Indianapolis TazikisCafe.com

MERCANTILE 37

25625 St. Rd. 37 N. | Noblesville Mercantile37.com

345 S. Bowers St. | Whitestown MoontownBeer.com

55 E. Oak St. | Zionsville SaltyCowboyTequileria.com

908 E. Westfield Blvd. Indianapolis TheGardenTable.com

Offering kitchenware, gifts and fine foods, this Bloomington staple will empower you in the kitchen. Celebrating 46 years of connecting people to their food. 115 N. College Ave. | Bloomington GoodsForCooks.com

grill house & oyster bar

Housed in a historic 1940s high school gymnasium in Whitestown. Enjoy a local sustainable menu with beer brewed on-site from locally sourced grain. Family friendly dining, live music, and private event space available.

A Tex-Mex–inspired taco and tequila bar focusing on daily-made fresh ingredients complementing smoked barbecue meat. Best known for tableside guacamole, street-style tacos and our giant nachos. Featuring 50+ tequilas and freshly squeezed margaritas.

342 Massachusetts Ave., #100 Indianapolis

GOODS FOR COOKS

 

Featuring a mix of local and vintage home décor from a collective of 50+ local makers. Shop lighting, tables, furniture, vintage accents, local home décor, apothecary and jewelry. Wheelers Café and Market at Mercantile 37 is open for breakfast and lunch offering a simple, rotating menu of locally sourced coffee, pastries, sandwiches and more. We also offer a local farm produce and dry goods market.

SALTY COWBOY

A local Indianapolis eatery and fresh juicery serving seasonally influenced and locally sourced food and cold-pressed juice. We believe in simple dishes made from natural ingredients, grown and harvested by local farmers.

MOONTOWN BREWING COMPANY

ST. ELMO STEAK HOUSE A big thank you to our local partners! As a locally owned business for over 110 years we take great pride in our local business relationships. Cheers to independent businesses! 127 S. Illinois St. | Indianapolis StElmos.com

NOAH GRANT’S A grill house and oyster bar located on the bricks of Main Street in Zionsville. The kitchen and bar open at 4pm Tuesday– Sunday. The restaurant specializes in fresh seafood, certified Angus beef and fresh oysters from the East and West Coasts. Reservations recommended. 91 S. Main St. | Zionsville NoahGrants.com

TABLE From a store full of fresh, seasonal foods and a team of chefs and culinary experts comes a celebration of food called Table by Market District—a restaurant that brings passion for food right to your plate. Open daily for lunch & dinner, as well as brunch every Sunday. 11505 N. Illinois St. | Carmel MarketDistrict.com/Table

TRIPLE XXX FAMILY RESTAURANT Indiana’s oldest drive-in dishes up the best diner food. From breakfast anytime to their madeto-order chopped steak burgers, this place will take you back to win you were a kid. And don’t forget to order up their famous Triple XXX root beer. 2 N. Salisbury | West Lafayette

TAPHOUSE BURGERS Bringing you locally sourced burgers, old-fashioned milk shakes and craft beer and cocktails in a convenient downtown Greencastle location. This chef-driven restaurant is owned and operated by the Bridges Group and supports local producers, farmers and beverage makers. 24 S. Indiana St. | Greencastle TapHouseBurgers.com edibleINDY.com

LAST BITE

Our Kitchen Table The heart of our home is our kitchen table. It is an extraordinary setting overflowing with love, life and stories to impart. Each crack, Each line, Each dent delivers a memory. The faded marker spot where the words “I love you daddy” once were scrawled; the glitter and nail polish that permanently reside on the edges remind us of a simpler time when our little girls once sat painting their nails, drawing pictures, writing thank you cards; The laughter and tears over spilled milk, burnt toast and birthday cake echo across this beautiful surface. Our table is where we are often reminded life is too short. It is where we break the fast, light the candles and continue to build memories of a lifetime for our family. It is where we heal the sadness, make plans for the future and have conversations about our day. It is where we hold hands to pray, ask for forgiveness and look for strength. Our kitchen table is more than a piece of wood; it is a life well lived, a family safe haven, a place for us to come together and celebrate all things. It is our heart. It is our home. It is nothing other than love. —Jennifer L. Rubenstein

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Winter 2019

IN IN

DREAMIN’ OF A WINE

Holiday

Elevate the holidays with hundreds of award-winning wines straight from your backyard. Explore your options at indianawines.org

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“

We only buy Indiana Kitchen—

not just for the fact that we’re one of their farm suppliers, but because it’s a good quality product,

and I wouldn’t want to put anything else on the table for my family.” —Jen Sands & family

North Central Indiana | Indiana Kitchen Farmers

“

Meet some of our neighboring farmers and discover why, for the most authentic bacon, ham and fresh pork you can buy, more people are saying,

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Winter 2019

Edible Indy Winter 2019 | No. 35

Articles inside

Last Bite

Steps Saved A personal narrative exploring Indiana’s impact on kitchen design and culture throughout history

Bio Town Ag How this no-waste Indiana facility is changing the future of farming

A Swedish Christmas with Hannah Lindgren “Not only have I kept the traditions alive, but I feel like I really am Swedish.”

Bee Sting Cake

Craft

Natural Pinecone Fire Starters

Fat Kick Flip

DIY

Foodgrams

Chocolate Gingerbread Financier

Hoosier Thoughts

Vegan Maple Apple Almond Scones

Golden Bite Latte