Edible Indy Spring 2015 | No. 15 by Edible Indy

Celebrating the Bounty of Bloomington, Carmel, Columbus, Indianapolis and Beyond

Feeding Our Community

Eat. Drink. Read. Think.

Local. Member of Edible Communities

Issue Fifteen

Spring 2015

we are local www.bloomingfoods.coop ͚͚͛͘ Ǥ ͛ Ǥ Ȉ ͙͛͞ Ǥ ͞ Ǥ Ȉ ͙͜͞ Ǥ ͚ Ǥ 52

edible INDY spring 2015

Contents One in six Hoosiers is Hungry 2

HOOSIER THOUGHTS

FROM THE EDITOR’S TABLE

HAVE YOU HEARD Peace Water Winery

WHAT'S IN SEASON Asparagus, Brussels Sprouts and Romaine Lettuce

EDIBLE 101 Central Indiana Hunger Fight

EDIBLE EDUCATION Second Helpings and Duos Offer Second Chances

FROM THE GOOD EARTH Indy Urban Acres

SEED TO PLATE Eating Local, by the Numbers

FARMACY Indiana’s First Sky Farm

BEYOND THE PANTRY Patachou Foundation

EATS A Traditional Flavor for a Traditional Italian Espresso

EDIBLE ENDEAVOR Mother Hubbard’s Cupboard

KIDS’ TABLE Basic Growing Methods of an Indiana Strawberry

ON THE FARM Paramount School of Excellence

EDIBLE DESTINATION Live Like a Local, Chicago

EAT DRINK LOCAL GUIDE

LAST BITE

RECIPES 6 Sautéed Asparagus with Crispy Shallots and Capers 7 Creamy Brussels Sprouts Orecchiette 8 Romaine Salad with Crispy Fennel and White Honey Balsamic Vinaigrette 34 Almond and Fennel Biscotti 43 Izzy’s Punch of the Week

Cover photos courtesy of Indianapolis Parks Foundation, Jennifer Rubenstein and Cassie Tam. Graphic by Cassie Tam. Photo on this page by Jennifer Rubenstein. edibleIndy.com

Hoosier Thoughts

edible INDY

he mission of Edible Indy is much more than just being a food publication. For us it is about making a difference within our community and within the lives of those we are blessed to have as readers. I (Jennifer) grew up in a family where we ate what we harvested and foraged. In springtime I was fortunate to have morel mushrooms and strawberries on the vine. Not everyone is lucky enough to have this type of food, yet I believe strongly that everyone deserves good food. Food that is fresh, not almost expired or overripe; food that will help build stronger minds, bodies and souls. This issue is focused on learning about some members our community who continue to make a real difference. It is about challenging each of us to make a bold move and “feed just one” if we can’t find a way to feed 100. Make a change, build a garden, teach someone to cook, donate fresh herbs, money or time. Help us take the sobering fact that one in six Hoosiers often goes hungry and change that number for the better. We can do it. Let’s do this together. Let’s feed our community.

managing editor Rachel D. Russell copy editor Doug Adrianson designer Cheryl Angelina Koehler web designer Edible Feast interns

advertising

FROM THE EDITOR·S TABLE

Best, Rachel D. Russell Managing Editor editor@edibleindy.com Give the gift of Edible Indy to someone—even yourself—delivered right to your door! $32 for one year (four issues) or $52 for a two-year subscription (eight issues). Subscribe online at EdibleIndy.com spring 2015

Katie Hopper: katie@edibleindy.com Audra Sternberg: audra@edibleindy.com Jennifer Rubenstein: jennifer@edibleindy.com, 317.489.9194 Please call or email to inquire about becoming an advertising partner and show your support for the local food culture in Central Indiana.

Photo by Kelly MacKinnon

Indiana is seen by many as a rural stronghold, with acres and acres of crop rows, farmers and farmland that feed people. But there are many Hoosiers who have never seen where the sky and sun touch the earth; have never seen a vegetable grow; have never had the money to buy and taste fresh fruit. These people are part of our community and they are the ones who suffer most from food insecurity and hunger. The overwhelmingly good news is there are people in Central Indiana who care, and these people have the means and moxie to do something about it. We showcase some of these compassionate people and their causes in this issue—we would need volumes to feature them all—and we are proud to have been allowed to meet with them and talk in print about their astoundingly important work. When I think of all of these important people, I am reminded of when I was a girl and I was being unreasonable about something insignificant. My great-grandmother would remind me how lucky I was, and no matter what my complaint she would talk about the Great Depression. She would reminisce about the countless children she and my great-grandfather fed during that time, because even though her family was poor they always opened their homes to feed those even less fortunate. What tremendous lessons we can learn if we open our hearts and listen. Whether it’s donating our time, giving money to feed those who need it or being the force behind a business that does both.

edible INDY

cfo Jeff Rubenstein

Kylee Wierks, Assistant Managing Editor Megan Tarter, Assistant Managing Editor Bailey Hunt, Graphics Cassie Tam, Graphics / Photography

Hoosier Hugs, Jennifer & Jeff

publisher Rubenstein Hills LLC editor in chief Jennifer Rubenstein

Edible Indy is published quarterly (March, May, September and November). Distributed throughout Central Indiana and by subscription elsewhere. Subscriptions are $32 for one year/four issues and can be purchased online at EdibleIndy.com or by check to the address above. Every effort is made to avoid errors, misspellings and omissions. If, however, an error comes to your attention, then you probably have not had enough wine with your healthy food. Please accept our sincere apologies and, if it’s important, please notify us! Thank you. No part of this publication may be used without written permission from the publisher. © 2015 all rights reserved.

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Have You Heard?

Sharing the Love

Peace Water Winery BY RACHEL D. RUSSELL " PHOTOS BY CASSIE TAM

Scott Burton pouring at Peace Water Winery. 4

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eace Water Winery is one of the newest additions to the growing business list on Main Street in Carmel. Unassuming from the outside, its inside tasting room is a welcome departure from the hectic world around us and offers many wines that delight. The owners are Scott and Laura Burton, longtime Central Indiana residents. Scott is a former corporate attorney, founder of the Fieldhouse in Fishers and one of the initial investors on the Monon Trail (he purchased and redeveloped the Bub's Burgers property on Main Street). He decided years ago to leave his crowded legal schedule behind to spend family time with his wife and eight children, now aged 12-26. And last fall, he and his wife decided to open a winery because they love wine, including the experience around it that brings people together. Keeping family in the forefront of their minds, the Burtons decided to incorporate their children into many facets of the new business. The top of all wine bottles have eight hands flashing a peace sign, which are actual Photoshopped line drawings of their children’s hands with their initials hidden in the artwork. And each of the family members played a large role in rebuilding and designing the entire space from the ground up using reclaimed wood and zen-like décor for a cozy feel. The family affair continues as son Jordan, a recent architecture graduate, runs the business alongside his father. Jordan loves the art of wine and wants to incorporate more of his designs into the business; he created the logo and the bottle art. But back to that round number eight again, which is most obvious from the moment you step in the door and see Peace Water’s “Giving Wall.” It features eight nonprofit organizations, each chosen by one of the Burtons’ children, and the winery donates 50% of all profits to these charities throughout the year. They even feature sponsored events at the winery and donate 10% of the evening’s sales directly back to that organization, and if you join the Peace Posse wine club they will donate a portion of your discount back to a charity of your choosing. And let us not forget the wine. It is overseen by a winemaker in California— where they share a bottling facility—and is made using Sonoma and Napa grapes. It’s then barreled and stored before being bottled and shipped to the Carmel

CURRENT NONPROFIT CHARITY LIST Art with a Heart The Equus Foundation Indiana University Dance Marathon The Jesse G. Library in Ethiopia Love on a Leash Peyton Manning Children’s Hospital SS Peter and Paul Cathedral Soup Kitchen Wine to Water

location. Peace Water features a wide variety of wines, including award winners at the World Wine Championship sponsored by the Beverage Tasting Institute in Chicago: “Bliss” 2013 Sauvignon Blanc, “Best White Wine”; “Sublime” 2012 Russian River Valley Pinot Noir, Gold Medal (91 points) and “Nirvana” 2011 Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon, Gold Medal (93 points).

Whether you’re a wine lover or simply revel in the thought of giving back, Peace Water Winery should be on your must-visit list. Look for a patio addition to the rear of the building later this year. Peace Water Winery is located at 37 W. Main St., Carmel, and can be contacted at 317.810.1330 or PeaceWaterWinery.com.

SHARE THE LOVE WITH EDIBLE INDY ON SOCIAL MEDIA Follow us on social media for your chance to be featured or to win great prizes! Facebook: edibleindy Pinterest: @edibleindy Vimeo: @edibleindy

Share with us @edibleindy Instagram #hoosierfood #hoosierlove

Join the conversation with @edibleindy on Twitter. Erin (Jones) Edds @ErinEdds2point0 Great time with @EdibleIndy today, drinking tea & talking about the future! Thanks JR! Really excited to start putting the pieces in place! Brittany Smith @YelpIndy Don’t leave without trying the smoked corn beef! -Hank’s Smoked Briskets on MLK @ VisitIndy @EdibleIndy

hattiemcdaniel, wine dinner

aprilharnish, mocha from Milktooth

thegardentable, Cassoulet with @smokinggoosemeatery lamb bacon and chicken from @ tynerpondfarm

Mama Carolla’s @mamacarollas This homemade Italian marinade recipe from @EdibleIndy sounds delicious! http://bit.ly/1D3EKeq

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What’s in Season?

Asparagus, Brussels Sprouts and Romaine Lettuce

Fresh Seasonal Deliciousness RECIPES AND PHOTOS BY THE FITCHEN " ILLUSTRATIONS BY CASSIE TAM

pring is full of green. Green grass, green leaves, green clover and lovely green vegetables. The Fitchen, Edible Indy’s newest contributor, brings flavor, flair and these three healthy recipes to your table. Born in a small kitchen at Purdue University in 2012, the Fitchen, meaning “fit kitchen,” is the food blog brainchild of Jordan and Clark Cord. The couple created the Fitchen with the goals of showing people how easy it is to cook healthy food and share their favorite recipes. After moving to Brooklyn and being exposed to new cuisines and styles of cooking, the two developed a greater knowledge of the local food movement. Upon returning to Indiana, they found a budding food scene with new restaurants, fresh perspectives and plenty of inspiration. A perfect fit for the readers of Edible Indy.

Side Dish: Sautéed Asparagus with Crispy Shallots and Capers This recipe is vegan, gluten-, dairy- and soy-free. Serves 4 1 pound asparagus 2 tablespoons high-quality olive oil 2 small shallots 2–3 cloves of garlic 2 tablespoons white wine vinegar Wash asparagus. Trim about ½ inch off the bottoms of spears. In a large pot, bring enough water to cover asparagus (about 6 cups) to a boil. Prepare an ice bath (several ice cubes in water in a large bowl). Boil asparagus for 1 minute. Drain. Toss asparagus into ice bath. Once cooled, set aside on paper towel to dry. Thinly slice shallots and garlic. In a large, preferably cast-iron skillet, heat 2 tablespoons olive oil to medium heat. Toss shallots into heated pan and sauté for 2 minutes, then add garlic. Sauté for 3–5 additional minutes. Add asparagus to the pan, stirring occasionally to keep it from burning. After 5 minutes, add white wine vinegar and sauté. Remove from heat when asparagus is to your desired tenderness. Serve immediately. 6 6

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spring 2015 2015 spring

Main Dish: Creamy Brussels Sprouts Orecchiette This recipe is vegetarian. Serves 6

Ingredients for dish: 1½ pounds Brussels sprouts (look for smallto-medium sprouts, if available) Water for cooking pasta 1 tablespoon salt (optional) 2 cups orecchiette pasta 3–4 tablespoons olive oil 1½ tablespoons white wine vinegar Fresh herbs and Parmesan cheese (optional)

Ingredients for sauce: 1 tablespoon olive oil 3 cloves garlic, minced 1 (15-ounce) can whole coconut milk (shake well before using) ½ cup nutritional yeast 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice 1 teaspoon dried basil 1 teaspoon dried rosemary 1 pinch cayenne Heat 1 tablespoon olive oil in a small skillet. Add garlic and sauté for 3–5 minutes on medium heat, until fragrant and golden brown. In a blender, add sautéed garlic, coconut milk, nutritional yeast, lemon juice and seasonings. Blend until well combined. The sauce will look runny. Set aside for now. Remove outermost leaves of Brussels sprouts and rinse well. Chop about ¼ inch off the base of each sprout, keeping the sprout intact so leaves do not fall off. Chop sprouts in half vertically. In a large pot, boil pasta water. Add 1 tablespoon salt to water (optional). Add orecchiette. Heat 3–4 tablespoons olive oil to medium in a large cast-iron skillet. Carefully place Brussels sprouts into pan face-down and cook 5 minutes. Use a spoon to gently move sprouts around to prevent sticking, while keeping them face-down. After 5 minutes, add white wine vinegar and stir. Sprouts should look browned and crispy. Continue cooking for 10 minutes, stirring often, until sprouts are tender. Leave in pan and remove from heat. The pasta and Brussels sprouts should finish around the same time. Once finished, drain pasta and set aside. Pour garlic sauce mixture into sprouts pan. Add pasta and heat to medium-high. Stir until everything is wellcoated and hot. The sauce should start to thicken. Garnish with fresh herbs or a light sprinkle of Parmesan cheese. Serve immediately. edibleIndy.com

Salad: Romaine Salad with Crispy Fennel and White Honey Balsamic Vinaigrette

This recipe is vegetarian, gluten-, dairy- and soy-free. Serves 4

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edible INDY

spring 2015

¼ cup white balsamic vinegar ½ cup olive oil 2 tablespoons local honey 1 teaspoon sea salt ½ teaspoon black pepper ¼ cup dried cranberries 3 tablespoons fresh orange juice 1 fennel bulb 1 tablespoon olive oil ½ cup wild rice blend 1 cup water 1 teaspoon sea salt 1 head fresh romaine In a small bowl, combine dressing ingredients and whisk until well combined. Set aside. Chop dried cranberries into small bits. Combine in a small bowl with fresh orange juice. Set aside to soak. Bring rice, sea salt and water to a boil. Decrease heat to simmer and cover. Cook 30–45 minutes, stirring occasionally, until all of the water disappears. Wash romaine and roughly chop. Set aside in a large bowl. Chop 1 fennel bulb into small slivers. Heat 1 tablespoon of olive oil in a skillet over medium heat and add fennel. Stir occasionally as it browns and crisps, about 10–12 minutes. Pour dressing over romaine and toss to coat. Add cooked rice, cranberries and crispy fennel. Toss again.

For more recipes from Jordan and Clark Cord, creators of The Fitchen, visit TheFitchen.com.

edibleIndy.com

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FREE | Sun, Apr 26, 2015 | 1–4 pm 6701 Hoover Road | 317-251-9467 | JCCindy.org

edible INDY spring 2015

Edible 101

CENTRAL INDIANA HUNGER FIGHT BY MEGAN TARTER " PHOTO BY JENNIFER RUBENSTEIN

entral Indiana is home to more than 2 million people. And according to the most recent data, nearly 16%, or one out of six residents is food insecure. Food insecurity, as defined by the USDA, “is a household-level economic and social condition of limited or uncertain access to adequate food.” Food insecurity is not an independent problem, but a symptom of other factors including unemployment, single-parent households and lack of resources such as higher education and family support. In the last five years, food insecurity in Indiana has become a new normal. Food insecurity in Indiana is touching families whose breadwinner lost a job, families where grandchildren are moving in with grandparents and families in which parents are trying to get an education while also raising children. Fortunately, Central Indiana is home to a sizable hunger-relief network, including services from Gleaners Food Bank of Indiana. Gleaners, located in Indianapolis, serves over 21 counties throughout Central and Southeast Indiana. Gleaners Food Bank partners with 250 hunger-relief agencies throughout the state to provide food assistance to food pantries, homeless shelters and soup kitchens. Gleaners also has several food assistance programs for children including BackSacks: Weekend Food For Kids, a program that ensures more than 10,400 children in 243 schools in Central Indiana will have food over the weekends; School-Based Pantry Program, a food pantry located in schools for children and their families; and Summer Meals for Kids, a program that provides free and nutritious food for children through the summer months. Gleaners also has a Community Cupboard program, a food distribution program open to the public and a Mobile Pantry program. The latter is relatively new with focus on reaching rural communities by distributing more than 30 million pounds of food total in those 21 counties. Volunteers from partner agencies drive the truck and donate the food products. In the winter of 2013, Gleaners also began their Fresh Bucks program. This program is structured around farmers’ markets and allows Hoosiers to use their Hoosier Works Card, which is a state-issued card that has taken the place of food stamps, on fresh produce. The Fresh Bucks program, which finished its pilot year in 2013 at the Indy Winter Farmers' Market, saw nearly 730 transactions. Those who spend $20 on their Hoosier Works Card receive $20 to spend on produce. Fresh Bucks is currently available at the Crooked Creek Farmers’ Market, Broad Ripple Farmers’ Market, Binford Farmers’ Market, The Original Farmers’ Market (at the Indianapolis City Market in downtown Indianapolis) and is expanding to the Brownsburg Farmers’ Market this year. Hunger relief agencies accept monetary donations, food donations and volunteers. Because of their missions, hunger relief agencies are able to purchase bulk foods at low cost. Monetary donations are preferable to product donations.

edibleIndy.com edibleIndy.com

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Hoosier Hunger Facts Indiana ranks 24th out of 50 states for overall food insecurity, and 26th out of 50 for children with food insecurity. Statewide, Indiana has 2,220 schools that participate in the National School Lunch Program (NSLP), a federally assisted meal program operating in public and nonproﬁt private schools and residential childcare institutions. It provides nutritionally balanced, low-cost or free lunches to children each school day. The program was established under the National School Lunch Act, signed by President Harry Truman in 1946. Indiana is 32nd out of 50 states with most schools that oﬀer the NSLP. STATEWIDE Total Total Food Insecurity Total Children with Food Insecurity

POPULATION 6,596,855 1,023,650 661,950

15.5% of the total statewide population 64.6% of the total food insecurity population

CENTRAL INDIANA (includes Marion County and 11 surrounding counties, which are below listed) Total Population 2,122,908+ Total Food Insecurity Population 319,910 15.1% of Central Indiana population Total Children with Food Insecurity 101,040 31.6% of food insecure population Statewide, 13.1% of the total population lives below the poverty line, which for a household of two is $15,510, and for a family of four is $23,550. Average income for all household sizes is $22,194, and 14% of the total Central Indiana population lives below the poverty line. Poverty levels depend on household size. CENTRAL INDIANA BREAKDOWN BY COUNTY County % of population % of children with food insecurity with food insecurity

# of NSLP programs

Bartholomew Boone Hamilton Hancock Hendricks Johnson Madison Marion Monroe Morgan Shelby

2 3 8 6 6 8 7 58 3 4 5

12 12

12.6 11.2 9.8 11.3 10.5 12.2 16 19.2 17.9 12.8 13.4

edible INDY spring 2015 edible INDY spring 2015

20 16.1 14.3 17 14.9 18.2 24 21.9 20.4 20.6 20.7

If you need assistance or would like to provide it, please contact:

TRADERSPOINT CREAMERY Fresh. Simple. Organic. 100% Grassfed

Connect2Help, 317.926.4357, Connect2help211.org Gleaners Food Bank, 317.925.0190, Gleaners.org Hoosier Hills Food Bank, 812.334.8374, HHFoodBank.org Feeding Indiana’s Hungry, 317.396.9355, FeedingIndianasHungry.org Mother Hubbard’s Cupboard, 812.339.5887, MHCFoodPantry.org

The Loft Restaurant BRUNCH - LUNCH - DINNER

-----------------------

The Roost

Private Event Room

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Second Helpings, 317.632.2664, SecondHelpings.org The Caring Center, 765.482.2020, TheCaringCenter.net Hot Meals Mill Race Center, 812.376.9241, MillRaceCenter.org Merciful HELP Center, 317.663.4039, MercifulHelpCenter.org Green Harvest Food Pantry, 630.416.1109, GreenHarvest.org Our Lady of Greenwood Food Pantry, 317.888.2861, OLGreenwood.org Salvation Army Anderson, 765.644.2538, Corps.SalvationArmyIndiana.org/anderson Midwest Food Bank, 317.786.8980, MidwestFoodBank.org Mid-North Food Pantry, 317.924.7900, MidnorthFoodPantry.org Morgan County Food Pantry Red Barn, 765.342.9063 This list is only a sample of options available. There are over 150 organizations oﬀering assistance in Central Indiana.

9101 Moore Rd, Zionsville

traderspointcreamery.com 317-733-1700 edibleIndy.com

Edible Education

COOKING UP LIFE CHANGES Second Helpings and Duos offer second chances BY AMY LYNCH " PHOTOGRAPHY BY CASSIE TAM

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econd Helpings is known for feeding the hungry in Greater Indianapolis. The more-than-700-volunteer organization does this by creating hot meals for 75 agencies in and around Indianapolis using donated food. It’s on a mission to serve one million meals this year. And since 1998, Second Helpings’ Culinary Job Training program has provided valuable preparation to help its students land jobs in the local food service/restaurant industry. This has greatly improved their lives, and our community. “Graduates leave Second Helpings not only with real cooking skills, but also with practical knowledge of what will be expected of them in the workplace,” said Second Helpings CEO Jennifer Vigran. “They leave with training in time management, which is crucial in the culinary business, and they learn how to conduct themselves in a professional kitchen environment.” More than 600 students have completed the free 10-week program since its inception. In addition to learning basic knife skills and cooking techniques, students receive practical training that discusses financial literacy and helps them learn how to dress, present themselves and interview for jobs. The classes are diverse and populated with students from all walks of life. Some students are living in shelters, overcoming homelessness or in addiction recovery; others may have recently been laid off and find themselves in need of new marketable job skills. “For many of the men and women, a Second Helpings graduation certificate feels like a golden ticket to a start a whole new life,” Vigran said. “It’s a life-changing experience. They leave with confidence to move forward, eager to continue learning and with skills that will allow them to provide for their families. For many, it’s their first taste of accomplishment and success.” Becky Hostetter, co-owner of Duos Kitchen—an Indianapolisbased eatery with two locations, a food truck, a catering element and a weekday lunch operation at Eskenazi Health—started working with Second Helpings in 2011. “What speaks to us about the job-training program are a number of points,” she said. “We believe in the mission of another chance, with folks being respected and acknowledged from whatever place and circumstance they may have come from.” Through the years, Hostetter has hired six Second Helpings graduates to work at Duos Kitchen and she keeps in touch with those who have moved on to other positions and work environments. “I always encourage other chef pals to check with Second Helpings when looking for new staff,” Hostetter said. “It’s always good to feel like you’re part of the cycle of giving and receiving, and that is most certainly a very strong feature of Second Helpings.”

SKILA EDMUNDSON Skila Edmundson is the newest addition to the Duos Kitchen, having joined the team in March 2012 a week after her Second Helpings graduation. “My chef instructor knows Becky and David Hostetter well, and came to me and said they were looking for someone to help in the

kitchen,” Skila said. “I called Becky and set up an interview.” Prior to enrolling in the Second Helpings program, Skila had worked as an assistant to an ISTEP coordinator. But, she knew her passion wasn’t truly in education and wanted to make a change. “Cooking has always been my dream,” she said. “When my mother became ill, before she passed, I promised her that I would go back to school to pursue cooking.” Through Second Helpings, Skila learned about time management, cooking etiquette and self-presentation. She’s also earned five credits through the Second Helpings program to apply at Ivy Tech Community College, where she’s planning to take business management courses and complete her culinary degree with an eye toward opening a restaurant of her own someday. “I’m always trying to look ahead and work on my faith to see where it leads me,” Skila said. For now, though, Skila is happy working with a diverse crowd of people at Duos, and learning something new: vegan and vegetarian cooking. “On a personal level, I feel great pride in our relationship with edibleIndy.com

Second Helpings, and extreme honor to be able to work alongside Skila,” Hostetter said. “She can do every single job in the kitchen, and is full of good energy and wit. Skila is an amazing example of all the good that Second Helpings can create.”

ANTHONY PERRY Second Helpings graduate Anthony Perry was Hostetter’s very first Duos Kitchen hire. Anthony’s grandmother saw an ad for the Second Helpings program in a newspaper and suggested he might want to pursue it. “I was an unemployed cook at the time,” he said. “I went through the program and graduated in October 2010 as part of class #60.” After completing his training, Anthony stayed on at Second Helpings, working in the hunger relief kitchen as a food production assistant, training volunteers and serving as a food rescue driver. Ben Shine, Second Helpings communications manager, put Anthony in touch with Hostetter and he joined the Duos team in February 2011. “I did a little bit of everything—prep cook, line cook, working in the food truck and catering,” Anthony said. “What I learned from Becky is to always be happy and friendly. She also taught me about the value of using fresh, local ingredients; it makes such a big difference.” By August 2013, Anthony was ready to take on new challenges. He applied for a job at the Capital Grille, where he now works as a line cook. In a full-circle twist of fate, the Capital Grille donates to Second Helpings, so Anthony still gets to keep in touch with his contacts there. Anthony hopes to use his Second Helpings kitchen training to progress with the Capital Grille and, one day, to open his own bistro. He also credits Second Helpings with training him in other important life skill areas, particularly public speaking. “I was a really shy guy, and it broke me out of my shell,” he said. “Doing an interview like this would have been impossible for me before.” For more information about the Second Helpings Culinary Job Training Program, call 317.632.2664 or visit SecondHelpings.org. To apply for the program, email tiera@secondhelpings.org or complete an online application on the website.

Amy Lynch is an Indianapolis-based freelance writer and editor. She enjoys cooking, local beer, travel, gardening and yoga. 16

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SECOND HELPINGS’ CULINARY JOB TRAINING PROGRAM t A 10-week, no-cost program offered four times per year t Approximately 25 students per class t Application process: math and writing test (about eighth grade level), drug test, one-on-one meeting with Chef Sam Brown and eight hours of volunteer service in the Second Helpings Hunger Relief kitchen. t All graduates leave with a food safety certification called ServSafe. State law requires every commercially licensed kitchen have at least one certified person in the kitchen during operating hours. t Local kitchens that regularly hire Second Helpings graduates include Bankers Life Fieldhouse, Lucas Oil Stadium, Eskenazi Health, Harry & Izzy’s, Oakley’s Bistro, JW Marriott, The Alexander Hotel, Butler University and Flatwater Restaurant.

Dining Guide Guide 2015

Consider this an appetizer. Go ahead and pull out this dining guide. It’s yours to keep. Whether you’re looking for an elegant gourmet meal served with wine or hearty, stick-to-your-ribs cooking served with a local microbrew, Hamilton County is sure to whet your appetite.

Learn more at VisitHamiltonCounty.com ARTS W HISTORY W SHOPPING W DINING W BIKING W HIKING

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From the Good Earth A small urban farm making a huge community impact

INDY URBAN ACRES BY RACHEL D. RUSSELL

stone’s throw from an interstate, where loud semis and cars find their way in and out of the hustle and bustle of Indianapolis’ heart, is Indy Urban Acres. This eight-acre tract of organic farmland is conspicuously, yet unexpectedly, located on the eastside of Indianapolis on 21st Street. It was founded in 2011 by the Indianapolis Parks Foundation with the goal of feeding low-income, food insecure Hoosiers with what most of us take for granted each day: healthy and fresh fruits and vegetables. This important mission is driven with the help of community-focused organizations like Gleaners Food Bank, Indy Parks, the Glick Fund and Foundation, IU Health and many others with huge hearts and understanding. And, of course, as at all farms, there would be no food without a farmer. Indy Urban Acres’ farm manager is Muncie native Tyler Gouth. He was introduced to the world of feeding others when he was a young boy, by way of a community garden. The son and grandson of preachers, he can remember his dad tilling a piece of land behind his family’s church to use as a garden for parishioners. This childhood education blossomed into his current belief that we should take care of our own, and a large part of that is feeding healthy food to those who deserve it, no matter where they live or how much money they make.

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THREEYEAR INDY URBAN ACRES STATISTICS Total pounds: 96,638 Total servings: 564,102 Total retail value: $306,431.56 Total TeenWorks apprentices: 55 Total children for tours and workshops: 5,366 Total volunteers: 1,866

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Photos courtesy of Indianapolis Parks Foundation

The farm features row crops on the back of the land, along with a few chickens and bees, 70 fruit trees close to the front of the property and, in the very front alongside 21st Street, boxes filled with 24 varieties of fruits and vegetables. The boxes are open to community picking and feature signage on what everything is and how to grow it. And while 24 varieties may seem like a lot for an eight-acre farm, it’s just a fraction of what’s been planted so far. Since the farm’s inception, Gouth, with the help of staff and over 100 volunteers and workers, has planted 43 varieties of fruits and vegetables. “We plant everything in Indiana you can, from A to Z—artichoke to zucchini,” he said.

edible INDY spring 2015

Gouth and his team harvest six days a week year round. During colder months, they grow crops like lettuce in a greenhouse located on site. All of the harvested food is donated to three local food pantries: The Bethel Food Pantry, Indianapolis Public School 14, which is taken to the school by Gleaners Food Bank, and Sharing Place. The farm uses surveys and visits the pantries regularly to determine what is most popular to grow. The Bethel food pantry, the second-largest food pantry in Indianapolis, is walking distance to Indy Urban Acres so farm teams walk the food there. Gouth says they could always load the food onto trucks and drive it down the street, but his hope is

Popular items requested from the farm are tomatoes, green peppers, green beans, cantaloupe and watermelon. The most requested crop is kohlrabi.

by physically walking produce to the pantry local residents “can see how close the food is grown, they can see there’s somebody out there that cares about their situation and wants to change it.” Indy Urban Acres also serves as an education center, reaching thousands of youth who tour the farm each year, particularly during summer months. They come from a wide variety of places, including schools, the Boys Scouts, Big Sisters and the YMCA. The front of the farm is their first stop. “That’s where tours start. The bus pulls in, they get out [of ] the bus and we can immediately talk about 24 varieties of things and kids can pull cherry tomatoes off right on the spot.” The farm is particularly important for the education of inner city youth, said Gouth, because many have never been to a farm and don’t know where food comes from or what it looks like in its natural state. With this in mind, each child touring the farm receives a young farmer’s activity book, which features how-to tips from worms to composting, and a two-gallon non-biodegradable bag filled with dirt so they can grow green beans at home. Most importantly, groups are educated about hunger in their area.

“That’s the first thing we talk about: our mission. The fact that we have hungry children in our community … it’s mind-blowing to me and not acceptable. If we can come together as a community to fix that problem, it’s gonna get solved.” Not only is the farm visited by area youth, teenagers assist on the farm for six weeks during the summer months. They come from TeenWorks, a nonprofit created and funded by the Glick Foundation. When Gouth was first approached about the idea he was skeptical, but the results have been nothing but positive. So far, over 50 teens have come to the farm over the last two summers to work six-week paid stints. They learn how to farm—each teen is assigned their own crop to supervise—and they gain valuable leadership and public speaking skills by sharing what they’ve learned about their crop with others. While the farm is free for anyone to visit, some schools struggle to afford transportation costs. This burden has been somewhat lessened by IndyGo, Indianapolis’ public transit system, which last year piloted a program to bring groups to the farm for free. This year, the program will be expanded and IndyGo will offer 400 free bus passes for Indy Urban Acres to distribute.

Illustrations by Cassie Tam edibleIndy.com

As to whether more urban farms are on the horizon for the Indianapolis Parks Foundation, it recognizes the interest and need in the Indianapolis area and receives new ideas on a regular basis, according to Gouth. For now, Indy Urban Acres has set an exceptional example for future urban farms that feed surrounding, low-income residents. The message is strong and passionate when Gouth speaks for the farm and the community it serves. “It’s not just getting them food, it’s a source of neighborhood pride and there are so many neighborhoods in Indianapolis that need that—that need something to be proud of, a way to give back and a way to help people.” Rachel D. Russell is the managing editor of Edible Indy. She has a passion for food, only second to writing, and enjoys hearing about how food has shaped lives. She is always interested in comments and ideas for new stories. She can be reached at editor@edibleindy.com

2015 FARM EVENTS Indy Urban Acres Farm Day is May 2 and will feature a plant sale with hundreds of varieties of tomatoes and other vegetables and herbs. Indy Urban Acres’ second annual Farmraiser is September 26. Tickets will be available to the public in June.

SUPPORT THE FARM Volunteer or donate by contacting the Indianapolis Parks Foundation at IndyParksFoundation.org. Visit the farm at 7710 E. 21st St., Indianapolis.

“It was life-changing for me to see these kids come out and turn into farmers … every single one of them I would hire.”

edible INDY spring 2015

Illustrations by Cassie Tam

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Seed to Plate What a Locally Produced Pan-Roasted Rack of Lamb Actually Costs

Eating Local, by the Numbers BY CHEF ALAN STERNBERG " PHOTOS BY AUDRA STERNBERG

ating local might cost a bit more but it is a bargain in many ways. The support of hardworking local farmers, foragers, chefs, artisans and business owners generates a community with greater economic impact. The question for many Americans is why does buying local or dining local cost more? While many factors affect the cost of local goods, Chef Alan Sternberg of Cerulean Indianapolis and Terry Knudson of Viking Lamb understand the economics of local sustainability. Both came together to showcase the reality of farm-to-fork and the bottom line for the consumer. This summary starts with the cost of lamb production at Viking Lamb, transitioning to the purchase of a lamb rack by Cerulean Indianapolis and ending with the cost to the consumer enjoying a locally raised, freshly prepared dish created by a locally owned establishment.

Viking Lamb Production Cost Average lamb crop per ewe: 1.7 Age of lamb: 4 to 5 months

Cost of average lamb Ewe feed, straw, vaccines Ram cost Labor Overhead: building, maintenance and equipment Lamb finishing feed Ewe depreciation* Miscellaneous Processing per head

$147.50 $75.00 $73.00 $58.82 $44.12 $100.00 $14.71 $75.00

Average cost per lamb Average hot carcass weight of 80 pounds

$588.15 $7.35 per pound on average

Lamb rack is the most desirable part of the lamb and is most expensive per pound. * An average ewe’s productive life is five years. Replacements cost approximately $500 per head. The outlined cost to raise a lamb crop is an average. Variables may include feed and fuel costs, which change daily, the health of the lamb, weather and farm overhead such as repairs, labor changes and new equipment.

edible INDY spring 2015

Patron Cost Pan-Roasted Rack of Lamb with Vegetables Sales Tax 7% Food and Beverage Tax 2% 20% Tip

$40.00 $2.80 $0.80 $8.72

Total Cost

$52.32

Cerulean Cost Beginning Cost of Lamb Rack $25.99 per pound x 1.44 pounds = $37.43 The bones are Frenched, meaning the rib bones are exposed by cutting off fat and the meat covering them, resulting in an 8% weight loss. To cover waste, the same rack now costs $40.68 Each portion served is 7 ounces Cost of 5 ounce portion Three Local Baby Carrots Two Local Cipollini Onions Two Local Parsnips Scratch Vegetable Broth Overhead and Labor

$12.39 $1.50 $0.40 $0.40 $1.00 $10.86

Total Cost of Prepared Dish

$26.55

For Chef Alan Sternberg’s Pan-Roasted Rack of Lamb recipe, visit our recipe page on EdibleIndy.com.

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Farmacy

Eskenazi Health takes the lead on making a difference

Indiana’s First Sky Farm BY KAREN KENNEDY

he surroundings are über urban. The Eskenazi Health and nearby IU Health campuses teem with traffic, pedestrians, cyclists and congestion. The sprawling and modern lobby of the Sidney and Lois Eskenazi Hospital bustles with patients, doctors, administrators and visitors rushing in every direction, each on his or her own personal mission. Sirens wail in the background and EMTs fly through, pushing stretchers. Yet seven stories above the noise and drama, the first tentative tendrils of pea shoots and baby lettuces peek up through the dirt, heralding spring. As spring turns to summer, an extraordinary bounty of fresh vegetables, herbs and berries will follow, defying the urban scene, and feeding the minds, bodies and souls of patients and hospital staff alike. This is the Eskenazi Health Sky Farm. The Sky Farm integrates the hospital’s core philosophy of preventative health measures—and eating fresh, locally grown food is at the top of that list. “Our CEO, Dr. Lisa Harris, is a passionate advocate of a healthy lifestyle and preventative medicine,” said Todd Harper, manager of media and public affairs. “She was the driving force behind the Sky Farm. As we planned this new building, the garden was always a part of it, and there was a lot to consider—irrigation, drainage and just the weight of it all. But we were committed to making this happen. To our knowledge, this is one of a kind. We don’t know of any other hospital that is doing what we’re doing, on this scale.” The Sky Farm covers the entire roof of the hospital—about 5,000 square feet, or one-tenth of an acre. And those pea shoots have an amazing view of the city from every angle. A total of 24 beds grow an astonishing array of crops. In its first growing season, it produced a total of about 90 pounds per week (2,200 pounds for the whole season.) The yield included baby kale, baby mustard, assorted lettuces, arugula, spinach, bok choy, beets, peas, lacinato, 26 26

edible edibleINDY INDY spring spring 2015 2015

Seven stories above the noise and drama, the first tentative tendrils of pea shoots and baby lettuces peek up through the dirt, heralding spring.

edibleIndy.com

Rachel White, the Sky Farm’s farmer and manager, proudly displays her ﬁrst year’s crop.

winterbor, red Russian kale, collard greens, chard, beans, onions, garlic, radishes, asparagus, tomatoes, leeks, scallions, carrots, squash, eggplant, cucumbers, turnips and celery, along with strawberries, blueberries and a multitude of herbs. Farmer Rachel White, through a partnership with Growing Places Indy, lovingly tends all of these crops. White works year-round, sowing the first seeds in February and harvesting the last of the crops in November. In between, she focuses on community involvement and educational classes, and has plans to ramp up those programs for the 2015 season. “The first year was a big learning curve for us,” said White. “We faced some challenges and solved some problems. We were caught off guard by the impact the wind had on transplanted crops, so we’re doing more with seeds this year. And we added a trellis for shade. Also, the ground freezes faster up here, so we have to take that into consideration when we plan.”

As the spring and summer crops mature, volunteers from both the hospital staff and Growing Places Indy step in to help harvest, and White is in regular communication with the chefs for the Marketplace cafeteria and Café Soleil, the fullservice, sit-down restaurant. Because the hospital prepares over 2,600 retail meals and 950 patient meals per day, the bounty from the Sky Farm contributes a fairly small percentage of the total produce offered, but the chefs plan their menus, specials and ordering around what is available from the garden. Menus will note which ingredients in a particular dish have been harvested Sept. 2013 from the Sky Farm. The mission of the Sky Farm is not just to grow food for the hospital’s patients and staff. It is also intended to grow a relationship between the earth and the soul for those who visit. In season, it is open 24 hours a day, seven days a week, and patients, visitors and staff often retreat to the roof to eat a meal, enjoy the view of the city, have a quiet moment, put their hands in the dirt and recharge their spirits. Some of the beds are even designed to be reachable from a wheelchair. This year it will open to the public so that all members of the community can enjoy the rooftop sanctuary, as well. And as the outreach programs expand, community members can participate in gardening classes, seasonal eating seminars and other programs designed to help city dwellers stay in touch with the roots of the food they eat. “People can take food for granted,” said White. “They may have never seen what celery looks like when it’s growing in the ground. I’d like to change that.” Eskenazi Health hosts a farmers’ market on the downtown Indianapolis campus starting in May. All offerings in the Marketplace cafeteria and Café Soleil are focused on healthy food, locally sourced whenever possible. The Sky Farm is open 24 hours a day, seven days a week.

Karen Kennedy is an Indianapolisbased food writer with over 25 years’ experience in the hospitality industry in Indiana, Chicago and Vermont. She is the owner of Small Potatoes, a catering and event planning company and the creator of the Indie Indy Foodie Tours. She, along with her dedicated team of foodies, work to promote independently owned restaurants throughout the Indianapolis area.

Photography courtesy of Eskenazi Health 28

edible INDY spring 2015

VISIT HAMILTON COUNTY MARKETPLACE Explore a marketplace of local favorites and bold ﬂavors in Hamilton County. Whether your taste is for a sweet treat to go, dinner and a pint or an essential ingredient for a dish at home, Hamilton County’s local chefs and artisans create concoctions to appeal to every appetite. Preview the main course at VisitHamiltonCounty.com.

Nationally acclaimed Top 5 NY Chocolate Show Innovations using amazing premium chocolate, gelato too! Come stir your spirit. Two Locations 301 Carmel Dr., Carmel and Historic Indianapolis City Market 222 E. Market St., Indianapolis 317.518.8842 chocolateforthespirit.com

A locally owned sharing plates restaurant and bar serving lunch and dinner Monday through Saturday for guests 21 and over. Divvy's contemporary American cuisine is served in a unique atmosphere and is a dining experience to be shared. 71 W. City Center Dr., Carmel 317.706.0000 DivvyCarmel.com

GJBC is a destination for those who love handcrafted beers, spirits and wines paired with delicious pub food. Serving unique beer experiences with pride in the heart of downtown Westﬁeld. 110 S. Union St., Westﬁeld 317.804.5168 GrandJunctionBrewing.com

Our boutique winery lets you taste, purchase or make your own. Tasting bar is open six days a week. Live music and Karaoke on the weekends. 7350 Village Square Ln., Ste. 200, Fishers 317.585.9463 HarmonyWinery.com

Providing a unique culinary outlet using local ingredients in our house made foods, drinks and grocery items while offering retail items from beloved food and beverage artisans from the great state of Indiana.. 211 Park St., Westﬁeld 317.804.8555 RailEpicureanMarket.com

A Slice of Britain on a plate with authentic British lunches and all day High Tea in a tearoom. Traditional British recipes made in-house from local ingredients or genuine imports. Theme nights, parties and group catering. 30 N. Rangeline Rd., Carmel 317.565.9716 TinasTraditional.com

Specializes in scratch made pastries, French macaroons, craft cookies, custom birthday and wedding cakes, full espresso bar and unique and approachable breakfast and lunch items, from scratch soups and ever changing creative breakfast and lunch specials. 303 E. Main St., Westﬁeld 317.804.8200 UnionBakingCo.com

A specialty shop of oils, vinegars, spices and gourmet products. We oﬀer tasting events, cooking classes and custom made gift baskets. Bon Appétit! Hamilton Town Center 13185 Harrell Pkwy, Ste. 150, Noblesville 317.219.3423 VomFassHTC.com

An independently owned and unique eatery situated in the historic Andrew Carnegie Library in the Carmel Arts and Design District. Enjoy lunch and dinner in a casual, family friendly dining area, neighborhood pub downstairs or outdoor deck. 40 E. Main St., Carmel 317.573.4444 WoodysCarmel.com

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Beyond the Pantry

The Good Fight to Feed Everyone Good Food

The Patachou Foundation BY RACHEL D. RUSSELL " PHOTOGRAPHY BY STACY NEWGENT 30

edible INDY spring 2015

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Many of these children had never had real butter before.

“So, we went from [feeding] my family to my customers to truly children who are at risk in this community.”

—Martha Hoover

t all began with Café Patachou. Ask nearly anyone in the Indianapolis area what it is and they know it. It falls off the lips of friends meeting up for brunch, co-workers taking a lunch break after a long meeting and families looking to spend quality time together with solid eats on the weekend. The creator and driving force behind this local restaurant favorite is Martha Hoover, an Indianapolis resident, wife, mother, attorney and entrepreneur. She owns several Indianapolis area restaurants under the company name Patachou Inc., including Cafés Patachou, Petite Chou and Napolese, focusing on breakfast, lunch, French-style bistro fare and stone-hearth pizza. The restaurants showcase whole foods; quality, locally sourced ingredients; sustainability and elegantly adorned dining spaces. Hoover opened her first Patachou Café in 1989 to fulfill her then-extreme vision of giving people what they deserve: the same good food she was feeding her family. And that’s what she and her staff— whom she obviously holds in high regard—have been doing well for the last 25 years. But a few years ago, Hoover started to wonder about what she could do to give back to those in her community who need it most, particularly children struggling with hunger and food insecurity. Historically, her company has given generously to charity, but she didn’t feel it was enough. She felt like she was getting credit for writing checks and her staff and customers were left wanting. “We didn’t make any impact on the butts in our seats. Our customers knew that we supported the community, but it did not really translate to them.” and “it did not mean anything to my employees and that bothered me a lot.” Echoed Hoover. From this idea, in 2013 the Patachou Foundation was born. Its mission is simple and important: “To feed nutritious after-school meals to at risk and food insecure children in our community.” Hoover sees the Foundation as a natural progression of her brand and a powerful way to give back to her community. “We knew if we created our own foundation we would have remarkable control over how money was

“It was fun because we got to learn how to make different recipes. Learning to cook as a kid helps you when you are an adult. If you are able to cook, you can help out people that are disabled and not able to cook.” —Sana’a (10) and Keiara (10) edibleIndy.com

Martha Hoover, above, brings her passion of making a difference to many lives with her foundation and Public Greens. spent, the impact it would make and also how we could connect with our own staff. The one thing we did not count on was how impactful all of those things were going to be for our customers.” So how does it work? Several days a week, Patachou Foundation volunteers bus food, prepared at a production kitchen in south Broad Ripple, over to its community partner, the Legacy Center, located on Indianapolis’ near-eastside. From there, the Foundation works with Growing Places Indy, which also donates food from its greenhouse and raised beds at the Legacy Center, to provide healthy after-school fare to children from four Indianapolis Public Schools. To date, the Patachou Foundation has served over 6,000 meals. The Foundation is fueled by private donations, fundraisers and another restaurant Hoover can add to her impressive repertoire, Public Greens. Her newest gastronomic creation—subtitled “An Urban Kitchen on a Mission”—opened late 2014 and is an urban-style cafeteria featuring farm-to-table cuisine and an on-site micro-farm. The best thing about it: All profits and farmed food go back to the Foundation. While the Foundation is in the early stages, the reaction from the children is proof it’s making headway. “We have found that the children are insanely open to everything that we feed them, talk to them about, show them, have them participate with us in … they are truly sponges,” Hoover said. Hoover’s goal is to “awaken and increase kids’ knowledge about what they eat so they can make healthy choices on their own.” But Hoover doesn’t want to be just another person donating food blindly to her community, what she calls being a “food thrower.” With this in mind, the Patachou Foundation not only feeds hungry and food insecure children, it educates them. 32

edible INDY spring 2015

Last summer, the Foundation worked with Brookside Park on the near-eastside, through the Indy Parks summer camp program, where 98% of the children they fed lived at or below the poverty level. The children planted and harvested crops, made homemade salad dressings, breads and butter, played games involving food, read books, participated in physical exercises and were taught manners. According to Hoover, the children were just thrilled to eat what they had made, particularly real butter as some of them had never tasted it, and they beamed at the end of their time when they were treated to a formal, white linen dinner. As to the Patachou Foundation’s operations, it’s 100% volunteeroperated, save three part-time workers, and Hoover serves as the executive director. And the board member list is deep and impressive. When asked how she found such an accomplished group Hoover said, “When you’re selling something you’re really passionate about it’s not really hard to sell it.” As to the future of the Patachou Foundation, Hoover emphasized she will follow the same approach she used with her first Café Patachou—to grow slowly and strategically. The Foundation has plans to expand the number of children fed in Marion County during the 2015–16 school year and to obtain more community partners.

Public Greens, 900 E. 64th St., Indianapolis, on the Monon Trail in Broad Ripple; 317.964.0865. Hours vary based on season. To volunteer or donate to the Patachou Foundation, please visit ThePatachouFoundation.org for information. To inquire about becoming a community partner, email office@thepatachoufoundation.org.

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Eats

A Traditional Flavor for a Traditional Italian Espresso

ALMOND AND FENNEL BISCOTTI BY BAKER JOSEPH BERCOVICI " PHOTO BY CASSIE TAM

ile Square Coffee Roastery believes in good coffee, specifically carefully prepared specialty coffee, which is similar to fine wine or craft beer and should complement your culinary experience. This is why Mile Square now features baked items artfully crafted to pair with their handcrafted coffees. Items such as this Almond and Fennel Biscotti can be purchased on the Mile Square Cafe Mobile, a coffee food truck.

Almond and Fennel Biscotti Yields 60 mini cookies 2 tablespoons fennel seeds, toasted and ground 1 pinch salt 1 tablespoon baking powder 1 cup almond meal or almond flour 3 cups all-purpose flour (approximately) 1½ sticks butter 1⅓ cups sugar 3 eggs

Preheat oven to 350°F. Toast fennel in oven with pinch of salt on baking sheet for 5 minutes. Set aside. Mix together dry ingredients saving ½ cup of flour for later. Set aside. Thoroughly cream butter and sugar in standing mixer. Add eggs 1 at a time, incorporating completely. Combine dry ingredients and butter mixture until just blended, adding enough of the flour set aside earlier to create a dough you can handle easily. Equally divide the dough and form each piece into four smooth balls. Refrigerate for ½ hour. Remove dough from fridge and roll into even cylinders about 12 inches long. Add a small amount of flour if needed to roll the dough. Bake dough cylinders on a cookie sheet until lightly brown, approximately 30 minutes. Allow dough cylinders, which are now loaves, to cool completely. Cut loaves into thin slices with a serrated knife. Turn down the oven to 300° and lay the biscotti cookies on baking sheets in a single layer and toast them in the oven for 15–20 minutes, until they achieve a golden color. Cool and serve.

Follow Mile Square Coffee Roastery on Twitter @mscoffeeroaster to find Cafe Mobile downtown Indianapolis. Joseph Bercovici is a cook, baker and classical pianist living in the Indianapolis area. He began baking bread in 2007 and has continued learning about the craft ever since, which includes developing his own sourdough starter. Contact him at indybakerJB@gmail.com. 34 34

edible edible INDY INDY spring spring 2015 2015

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Edible Endeavor

Increasing Access to Healthy Food for All People

BY KYLEE WIERKS " PHOTOGRAPHY BY JENNIFER RUBENSTEIN AND MOTHER HUBBARD’S CUPBOARD

ood insecurity is one of the leading public health challenges in Indiana, and it is especially prevalent in Monroe County. According to the annual Map the Meal Gap study presented by Feeding America, the percentage of people who need food assistance in Monroe County has steadily grown. In 2010, 15.9% of residents suffered from food insecurity, but that number grew to 17.9% in 2012. Among the local organizations helping to combat this problem is Mother Hubbard’s Cupboard. Since its establishment in 1998, MHC has grown from a mere food pantry into a complete food resource center for the community. MHC President and CEO Amanda Nickey explained their mission: “We are working to increase access to healthy, fresh food for anyone who needs it. And we work to do those things in ways that

36 36

edible INDY spring 2015 edible INDY spring 2015

help people keep their dignity and in ways that encourage self-sufficiency and self-reliance and build community.” Mother Hubbard’s Cupboard works to fulfill this mission through several different ways, including their food pantry, community gardens, educational classes and a tool share program. The food pantry is at the core of Mother Hubbard’s Cupboard’s mission. At the pantry, in an effort to help empower and respect their patrons, they operate on Patron’s Choice and the honor system. The way Patron’s Choice works is that the pantry is set up like a grocery store and patrons go through and pick the things they need. No one tells them what they have to take, and this way MHC reduces waste. The honor system means that MHC doesn’t check IDs, proof of income, etc. If someone says they need assistance, they can use the food pantry.

“One of my favorite things to do is answer the phone and have someone call and say ‘I need to use the food pantry, but I don’t know what to bring.’ And you get to tell them ‘Oh, you don’t have to bring anything.’ And you can feel the sense of relief,” Nickey said. Another large part of the organization is its community gardens. “Everyone who comes to the food pantry experiences the community garden,” she said. “These patrons are either receiving the produce that’s coming from the garden in the pantry or they’re going and harvesting it themselves. Last year we grew about 3,400 pounds of produce in our gardens total.” Mother Hubbard’s Cupboard has one onsite garden and three offsite gardens in the community. One of the offsite gardens is located in the largest Section 8 housing neighborhood in Monroe County, Crestmont. The Crestmont garden is open for community members to harvest anytime they want, and MHC encourages community members to help tend to it. Nickey says there are a lot of people in that neighborhood who are homebound or have disabilities and can’t get down to the garden, so they have a bike cart MHC workers use to deliver produce to anyone who wants it. In collaboration with the food pantry and gardens, MHC offers a variety of educational opportunities including nutrition and gardening education programs as well as cooking classes ranging from food

preservation to bread- and pie-making. The classes are all very hands on and ingredients and instructional pamphlets are provided. The tool share program is their newest program, and as far as Nickey has heard “it’s the only one of its kind in the country.” Patrons sign up much like they would at a public library and they can check out cooking and gardening tools. MHC offers things like food dehydrators, canning equipment, shovels, a tiller and a variety of other tools. Since its creation last year, 95 people have signed up and they’ve had over 300 loans. Monroe County still has a long way to go in decreasing the percentage of people who suffer from food insecurity. But through MHC’s gardening and nutrition education, as well as their emergency food services, they hope to help the long-term sustainability in the community. To help, donate or volunteer at Mother Hubbard’s Cupboard visit MHCFoodPantry.org or call 812.355.6843. They are located at 1100 W. Allen, Ste. A, Bloomington. Kylee Wierks is an assistant managing editor intern for Edible Indy. She also works at CBS4 and Fox59 in Indianapolis, and writes a cooking blog called Kylee’s Kitchen.

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Kids' Table

edible INDY spring 2015

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On the Farm

Nourishing the Neighborhood

PARAMOUNT SCHOOL OF EXCELLENCE BY SARA CROFT

ood deserts are alive and real in Indianapolis. The Near Eastside is the most densely populated ZIP code (46201) in the city, yet it has only one grocery store, two specialty stores and seven convenience stores.The ability of a family there to find fresh produce is next to none. It’s not a choice between broccoli or Swiss chard for dinner, but between boxed macaroni and cheese or freezedried mashed potatoes. Studies have shown that children who grow up without fresh fruits and vegetables in their diet are more likely to become obese, develop diabetes or have a multitude of other health problems, not to mention how it affects their ability to learn and grow. Established in this neighborhood in 2010, the Paramount School of Excellence’s goal is to serve its students in two ways: with an unparalleled educational approach and through active leadership and ongoing outreach. When Tommy Reddicks, a former music teacher and assistant principal from Denver, moved to Indianapolis to help start this charter school, he knew nothing of this particular neighborhood. He began by knocking on doors to discuss the school he was so passionate about creating with potential parents and students. His approach to education is not about sitting behind a desk or computer each day, but instead can be seen inside and outside of the

edible INDY spring 2015

school, through neighborhood association meetings and a constant presence within the community. This removes the barrier of the walls of the school allowing the parents and students to feel more comfortable. “Myself and my staff attend neighborhood association meetings, and we volunteer to clean up the neighborhood often. When I go see a parent at their home, I know I have cleaned their alley, and I start to build that person’s trust,” Reddicks says. This approach has been vital to gaining support in Paramount’s mission. “We knew from experience that we would hold PTO meetings and few would come, so instead we’ve decided to go to the parents,” Reddicks says. Part of the school’s outreach is being a catalyst for health and sustainability in the urban corridor. Most of Paramount’s K-8 students come from this neighborhood, and 90% of them qualify for free or reduced-price lunches because their family income is below the poverty line. Having this ongoing foundation of more than 400 families means the school is able to provide a continual impact on the nutrition, quality and access to healthier eating options for the 581 students and their families. Built on 5.5 acres at 3020 Nowland Avenue in Indianapolis, the Paramount School of Excellence has taken advantage of the opportunity to offer education about farms, food, health and environment to

all of their students. Egg-producing hens, four dairy goats (milked daily at 7am), vegetable and herb gardens, a three-hive apiary, a water cistern system and a community hoop greenhouse are maintained by three staff members in addition to the students. “The staff help navigate the journey to ensure that nothing dies on the vine, so our produce ends up on someone’s table or pantry or restaurant, allowing us to sustain our community,” Reddicks says. “It took three years for Paramount to get to this point. The consistency of the school’s farm-to-school-to-community involvement is establishing an expansive pathway for healthy habits to take root and have a lifelong impact on students’ lifestyle choices.” Four focus areas of farms, food, health and environment will further come together with the inaugural TURN (Transforming URban Neighborhoods) Festival on Saturday, September 12. The Paramount School of Excellence will host this event on its property and in Brookside Park to bring kids, parents and community members together to attend workshops, visit exhibits and participate in demonstrations. “Nobody has tried to bridge those four concepts together before,” Reddicks says. “It’s not just about urban farms, it’s about transforming urban neighborhoods. TURN organizations support TURN practices, such as sustainability. We want to celebrate the TURN practices and create a beautiful spider web of a movement.” Presented by Community Health Network and Paramount School, the TURN Festival is a natural outgrowth of the work being done at the school in urban farming, ecology, green initiatives and community involvement. Advocates of urban homesteading, slow food and farm-to-table movements will exhibit at the event and offer workshops throughout the oneday festival. In addition to the Saturday event, the festival will host a fundraising dinner the night before with a high-profile national healthy lifestyle advocate that is soon to be announced. For information about exhibitors, workshops, volunteer opportunities and sponsorship, visit TURNFestival.com. For information on the Paramount School of Excellence, visit ParamountIndy.org.

Photos courtesy of Paramount School of Excellence

Sara Croft enjoys eating and drinking her way through Indianapolis. She shares these adventures through VisitIndy.com and her website, SolidGoldEats.com. She also develops recipes for local businesses and The Indianapolis Star. In her spare time, she enjoys hanging out with the local craft beer drinking group Girls’ Pint Out, playing with her two pups, volunteering for local nonproﬁts and getting lost in a really good book.

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Edible Destination

Three incredibly local spots in Chicago

Live Like a Local

STORY AND PHOTOGRAPHY BY JENNIFER RUBENSTEIN

ust three hours north of Indianapolis lies the Windy City, peppered with must-sees like the Magnificent Mile, Wrigley Field, Grant Park, Garrett’s Popcorn and world class chef, Rick Bayless. It’s a city filled with international delights and some of the most delicious food in the world. Whether one journeys there for the day or an overnight stay, living like a local should be in the cards. While Downtown Chicago is always a popular option while visiting, neighborhoods surrounding the downtown area revel in old world architecture, dabble in cultural worlds near and afar and awaken gastronomic senses. As an adjoining state, Indiana is woven into many elements in Chicago, especially within local artisan establishments. From Goose the Market to Gunthrop Farms, Upland Brewing Company to Traders Point Creamery, Indiana is well represented. Try your hand at living like a local with these three picks in two great neighborhoods— Andersonville and Lincoln Park.

Perennial Virant, a Paul Virant Restaurant, Lincoln Park Attached to Hotel Lincoln, this gem has done more than create a buzz. The simplistic and timeless setting is by design. Shelves lined with preserved vegetables, fruits, vinegars and the aroma of food being prepared, tickle every sense. Paul Virant, 2013 James Beard Foundation Award for Best Chef, Great Lakes Finalist, is the creator and mastermind behind this restaurant along with Vie located in Western Springs, Illinois and his most recent restaurant, Vistro, located in Hinsdale, Illinois. The restaurant’s namesake, Paul Virant has said, “The soul of my kitchen isn’t in my kitchen at all.” This is evident in the Perennial Virant’s basement where there are shelves upon shelves of pickled Saturday and Sunday Brunch is one of Paul Virant Restaurant’s most popular dining times. 42 42

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Donuts are one of the most popular items on the Perennial Virant brunch menu. and preserved Midwest harvested vegetables, wine in the process of turning to house made vinegars and even a meat-curing chamber. The dishes are inspired by what’s in season, and being able to serve as much local produce as possible. A full butcher team is on staff to create the most mouth-watering and full flavored cuts of meat possible, and several times a week foragers bring their bounty to be inspected and potentially purchased for use within the restaurant’s artistic and delectable dishes. Chef de Cuisine, Ed Sura, opened Perennial Virant in 2011. He and his staff know they have a food responsibility to the patrons, staff and community. Each day before they open, the staff sits down at 3:30pm to have a family-style meal before serving guests dinner. All waste is composted and provided to City Farm, a nonprofit Chicago based organization turning vacant land into productive farmland. And the food provided is by “the right people doing the right thing,” according to Sura. Staples on their menu include a rotating donut, such as the chocolate crème donut glazed with peanut butter and roasted peanuts, and a sweet and savory pear galette with grilled onion jam and Saxony cheese. House made sausage is on the menu, however, they share the love with Indiana’s own Gunthrop Farm’s chicken sausage topped with two eggs sunny side up over two scratch made melt-in-yourmouth biscuits. From time-to-time you will find Smoking Goose meats on the menu and Traders Point Creamery milk and yogurt. The latter is a standard in their grab-n-go offshoot, Elaine’s, located in the lobby of the Hotel. Whatever the reason for visiting Chicago, Perennial Virant must be on any foodie’s list. It is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner with brunch being served on Saturdays and Sundays. They are located at 1800 N. Lincoln Ave., Chicago. For more information on this restaurant visit perennialchicago.com.

Izzy’s Punch of the Week Israel Vallecillo, a mixologist at Perennial Virant, always concocts a knock-your-socks-off punch of the week. This one is perfect for brunches, parties or just to sip on the deck while watching the sunset. Yields 1 gallon

Farmhouse Chicago, Lincoln Park Another foodie treat is the Farmhouse Chicago. It sits quietly in an old building on W. Chicago Avenue in Lincoln Park and is considered a Midwestern craft tavern. The interior is welcoming and almost entirely designed from the salvage of a south side Chicago furniture factory. And, behind the bar is a 1930’s Bevador—a lazy Susan holding several hundred bottles of beer including Indiana’s own Alpha Klaus and War Mullet from Three Floyds Brewing Company and Sweet Myrtle from Upland Brewing Company. Owners, TJ Callahan and his wife Molly McCombe, own Brown Dog Farm, a 140-acre farm located in Wisconsin. Their passion for Midwest harvested food is evident. Their farm currently provides apples and black walnuts to the restaurant and they have recently planted

3 cups Christian Brothers Brandy 1½ cups Luxardo amaretto 3 cups champagne 8 cups orange juice 1 ounce lemon juice 1 cinnamon stick 3–4 whole cloves Mix first 5 ingredients together. Add cinnamon sticks and whole cloves. Chill. Serve over ice garnished with a drunken cherry and cinnamon stick. edibleIndy.com

Indiana farms have a strong presence at the Farmhouse. an orchard of fruit bushes and trees along with having four beehives. Wisconsin, Illinois and Indiana farm products are splattered all over the scratch made dishes and are featured on a chalk wall allowing patrons the opportunity to understand the localness of the food. Indiana is represented well with Bells Aquaculture, Forage and Foster, Hoosier Beef, Miller Amish Farm and Smoking Goose all having an almost permanent position on the seasonally changing menu. The most popular dish by far is Farmhouse’s scratch made, beer battered Wisconsin cheese curds and spicy curd sauce with over nine tons served each year. If cheese curds don’t fit the bill, the second choice must be the stick and bindle, a board full of Midwestern artisan cheeses, charcuterie, pickled vegetables and crusty bread. The main harvest dishes include everything from Rainbow Trout, pasture raised burgers, handcut fries and a roasted, juicy whole Amish chicken stuffed with seasonal roasted vegetables such as carrots, turnips and squash served over a bed of black rice. All delectable and memorable by any tummy’s standards. And dessert—the Farmhouse will make a personalized savory apple pie à la mode; for something sweeter, the chess pie will bring joy to world. The Farmhouse is a perfect stop for a libation, appetizer or a full meal and the atmosphere will make anyone admire the charm of barn dining. It is open for lunch and dinner and is located at 228 W. Chicago Ave., Chicago. For more information or to see their seasonal menu visit FarmhouseChicago.com.

A delicious local meat and cheese board from the Farmhouse. 44

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Over nine tons of the Wisconsin Cheese Curds are served each year.

Photo courtesy of The Guesthouse Hotel

SUBSCRIPTION PROGRAM

The lobby of the Guesthouse makes anyone want to “live like a local” in Andersonville.

The Guesthouse Hotel , Andersonville After all the good food and recreation, a comfortable, yet chic hotel whose mission really is “Live Like a Local” is a choice not to miss. The Guesthouse Hotel, a Select Registry member, is located in the heart of Andersonville. Just a few blocks from the famous jazz bar, the Green Mill (where Al Capone had a standing table and is said to haunt to this day), is where this beautiful and anything but ordinary guesthouse lies. The Guesthouse specializes in short- and long-term stays with one, two or three bedroom suites. All the suites resemble contemporary yet classically comfortable apartments complete with gourmet kitchens, luxurious linens, towels and robes. Down comforters adorn the queen and king beds making for an at-home-like sleeping environment, rather than a hotel stay. Each room has a private balcony with furniture and gas grills. Tall ceilings and airy colors make for a perfect combination for a stress-free stay. The lobby is full of local one-of-a-kind art and boutique items. The artwork here and throughout the hallways is Chicago themed or by Chicago artists, many of the pieces are family pieces, which allows guest to feel like they are home away from home. A 24-hour boutique is available featuring local artists wares such as beautifully handcrafted purses, hats, gloves, cufflinks, jewelry, candles and other unique gifts. Just adjacent to the lobby is the Exchange, a small market filled with local treats and snacks available for purchase. Stacked goodies such as Amy’s Candy Bar, Hillary’s Cookies, Lucila’s Alfajores and River Valley Farms salsas and sauces are just a few items worth mention. There’s also a library stocked with old books inherited from the owner’s parents, some of which were found in an old home purchased near Wrigley Field.

The four-story building includes a roof top open to guests. Plans for a future roof top garden are in being designed and constructed by the Indianapolis firm, Blue Marble Design. This will allow guests to soak up more greenspace and enjoy the Chicago skyline. To make a reservation or learn more about this crème de la crème in Andersonville, visit theGuesthouseHotel.com

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Featured as one of Gayot’s top 10 new restaurants of 2013, Cerulean oﬀers contemporary American cuisine with an emphasis on Hoosier hospitality in a casual ﬁne-dining environment. CeruleanRestaurant.com/ indianapolis Bloomingfoods, a Bloomington staple since 1972, is one of the nation’s largest co-ops, featuring the freshest hot bar with ingredients from over 50 local farms. Hot bar available at Third Street, Sixth Street and Kirkwood Avenue locations. Bloomingfoods.coop

339 S. Delaware St., Indianapolis, Lunch: M–F 11am–2pm, Dinner: M–Sa 5:30–10pm, 317.870.1320

3220 E. Third St., Daily 8am–10pm, 812.336,5400 316 W. Sixth St., M–Sa 7am–10pm, Su 8am–9pm, 812.333.7312 419 E. Kirkwood Ave., M–Sa 8am–9pm, Su 10am– 5pm, 812.336.5300

Eating Local Simpliﬁed Getting Hoosier-grown goodness on your plate doesn’t have to involve hours in the kitchen. These ﬁne establishments proudly serve up the freshest locally sourced cuisine. The farm-to-table movement begins with Central Indiana farms and dedicated producers who care about bringing only the best to market, which is a very good thing for locally owned restaurants that search out the best dairy, meat, produce and beverages for their patrons. Farm-to-table is gaining momentum not only with bornand-bred Hoosiers, but the many visitors to Central Indiana. Edible Indy connects growers, producers and food artisans with their community. Here is a select list of some of those chefs and owners who take great pride in celebrating Hoosier-grown goodness. *This is a paid advertisement.

We’re proud to keep it local at Harry & Izzy’s! Three restaurants sourcing locally from 10 regional farms, four breweries and seven locally owned purveyors or producers leads to one great meal. All open M–Th 11am–11pm, F–Sa 11am–midnight, Su noon–9pm. HarryAndIzzys.com Northside: 4050 E. 82nd St., Indianapolis, 317.915.8045

The District Tap is Indianapolis’s newest tap house featuring more than 60 beers including over 30 local craft beers on tap and a menu of unique food options they call damn good food. TheDistrictIndy.com

Airport: 7800 Col. Weir Cook Memorial Dr., Indianapolis, 317.241.0533

3720 E. 82nd St., Indianapolis, F–Sa 11am–1am, Su noon–midnight, 317.577.7800

Downtown: 153 S. Illinois St., Indianapolis, 317.635.9594

The Loft Restaurant and Dairy Bar at Traders Point Creamery is a true farm-to-table restaurant, located in a historic barn on an organic dairy farm, serving farm-raised, local and organic fare. Open for lunch, candlelit dinners and Sunday brunch. 317.733.1700, TraderspointCreamery.com Milktooth is a neighborhood brunch destination, serving up Indy’s ﬁrst Mod Bar coﬀee program along with upscale breakfast and lunch. Focusing on seasonal, local ingredients—everything is made in house. 317.986.5131, MilktoothIndy.com 534 Virginia Ave., Indianapolis, W–M 7am–3pm

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9101 Moore Rd., Zionsville, Lunch: M–Sat 11am– 2:30pm, Dinner: Tu–Th, Su 5–9pm, F–Sa 5–9:30pm, Sunday Brunch: 9:30am–2:30pm

Founded in 2009, Chef JJ’s Back Yard is a unique, personal and hands-on culinary experience with a focus on the Big Green Egg®, corporate team building, private events and grilling classes. 317.602.3828, ChefJJs.com Housed in a former rockabilly nightclub from the 50s/60s, Thunderbird is one of the shining stars in Indiana’s gastronomic revolution. An attentive cocktail list complements the 80-seat dining area dedicated to all things Southern. Fuel up on perfect portions of biscuits and gravy, cornbread with maple syrup and hushpuppies or order from one of the most extensive bourbon menus in Indiana. 317.974.9580, ThunderbirdIndy.com 1127 Shelby St., Indianapolis, Tu–Th 4pm–midnight, F–Sa 4pm–2am, Su 4–10pm

Tina’s Traditional Old English Kitchen oﬀers a Slice of Britain on a plate with authentic British lunches and all day High Tea in a tearoom. Traditional British recipes made in-house from local ingredients or genuine imports. Theme nights, parties and group catering. TinasTraditional.com 30 N. Rangeline Rd, Carmel, T–Su 11am–4pm, 317.565.9716 The Propylaeum: 1410 N. Delaware, Indianapolis , M–F 11am–3pm, 317.638.7881

A locally owned, quaint cafe featuring clean scratch made food. They use pasture raised meats and nonGMO fed dairy supporting local farmers throughout the year. Vendors include Traders Point Creamery, Tyner Pond Farm’s sausage, local farm fresh eggs, Corner Stone Bakery bread, Smoking Goose Meats, blood sausage from Chicago and locally roasted organic Harvest Café coﬀee. 9840 N. Michigan Rd., Carmel, M–Sa 8am–2pm, Su Brunch 9am–2pm, 317.283.2776, jacquies.net

Downtown: 42 W. South St., Indianapolis, opening Spring 2015

St. Elmo gives a big thank you to our local partners! As a locally owned business for over 110 years we take great pride in our local business relationships. Cheers to independent businesses! 317.635.0636, StElmos.com

1040 Broad Ripple Ave., Indianapolis, M–F 11am–6pm, Sa 10am–5pm.

127 S. Illinois St., Indianapolis, M–F 4–11pm, Sa 3–11pm, Su 4–10pm

Local Roots, California Wines (and vibes)! If you love tasting great Napa Valley wine in a fun, eclectic, groovy atmosphere, then Peace Water Winery is your place! Best yet, 50% of our proﬁts are donated to charities. So come in for a tasting, buy a glass, take home a bottle or join our wine club and learn how “One Bottle Does a World of Good!”. 317.810.1330, PeaceWaterWinery.com

The Garden Table is a local eatery and fresh juicery in the heart of the Broad Ripple Village. We serve seasonally inﬂuenced and locally sourced food and cold pressed juice. We believe in simple dishes, made from natural ingredients, grown and harvested by local farmers. 317.413.3778. TheGardenTable.com

37 W. Main St., Carmel, T–Th 2–9pm, F–Sa noon–10pm, Su noon–5pm

908 E. Westﬁeld Blvd., Indianapolis, Tu–Sa 8am–3pm , Su 9am–3pm.

Upland oﬀers a brewpub, beer bar, tap house and tasting room, all serving up Indiana’s ﬁnest craft brews. Juicy gourmet burgers to beet and pesto pizza, tofu tacos to the Porter chocolate cake, the brews and the food are one-of-a-kind and should be on any foodie’s list. The Carmel Tap House and the Brew Pub have full service lunch and dinner menus. uplandbeer.com Bloomington BrewPub, 350 W. 11th St., Bloomington, M–Th 11am–midnight, F–Sa 11am–1am, Su noon–midnight, 812.336.2337

Want to be listed in this guide? Contact us at: info@edibleindy.com or call 317.489.9194

Westside Beer Bar, 4060 Proﬁle Pkwy., Bloomington, W–F 3pm–10pm, Sa–Su 2pm-10pm, 812.336.2337 Tasting Room, 4842 N. College Ave., Indianapolis, Su–Th 4pm–10pm, F–Sa noon–midnight, 317.602.3931 Carmel Tap House, 820 E. 116th St., Carmel, , M–Th 11am–midnight, F–Sa 11am–1am, Su noon–midnight, 317.564.3400 edibleIndy.com

Last Bite

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edible INDY spring 2015

Edible Indy Spring 2015 | No. 15

Articles inside

Sautéed Asparagus with Crispy Shallots and Capers

Creamy Brussels Sprouts Orecchiette

Almond and Fennel Biscotti