It’s 95 degrees as I write this. The forecast says it will be 101 degrees in a couple of days. Not long ago, I, like most of us in the Houston area, had no power due to Hurricane Beryl, which meant no AC, which meant unbearable heat. So, it’s a bit strange thinking about fall; about soaking up the last vestiges of a warming soup with a hunk of crusty bread; firing up the oven to roast a locally raised chicken with thyme, rosemary and ample dollops of butter; or donning a sweater before heading out.
But the heat is a stark reminder of how connected we are to the weather and environment, of how what we eat is affected by temperatures and rainfall amounts, by flooding or loss of key infrastructure, and of how we should be mindful of those changes and what causes them to fluctuate.
The heat also reminds us of what’s to come — not just cooler temperatures, but bushels of new crops such as hardy (and hearty) greens and root vegetables and holidays in which we share those foods with friends and family. As Wendell Berry wrote in his poetry collection Farming: A Handbook, the farmer “enters into death yearly, and comes back rejoicing.” Though Berry was talking about the bareness of winter in Kentucky blossoming into spring and not the withering summer heat on the Gulf Coast giving way to the abundance of autumn, the point is the same: we should rejoice at the changing of the seasons and the foods they bring. I hope the articles in this issue help with your autumn-inspired celebrations. Shubhra Ramineni discusses tips and tricks for making a classic South Indian soup. If you need tasty bread to go with that soup or any meal this fall, Colin James Sturdevant writes about three of his favorite Houston bakeries. Bleah Patterson explores how family, memories and nostalgia shape what we enjoy at the table, while Stacey Ingram Kaleh shares the nuances of a bold red wine varietal we can enjoy at that table. There are also details about restaurants to try, festivals to attend and much more. May your fall be full of good food, family, friends, cooler temperatures and much rejoicing.
Farm-to-Freedom: Vietnamese Americans and Their Food Gardens by
Roy Vũ
Growing fruits and vegetables can help us reconnect to the land and soil that sustain us, but for many immigrants and refugees it can also connect them to the cultures and cuisines they left behind. Such was the case for the parents of Roy Vũ, who grew up in Houston and earned a Ph.D. in history from the University of Houston. After the Vietnam War, they were forced to flee their homeland in South Vietnam. When they finally arrived in Houston, they began growing the Vietnamese vegetables, fruits and herbs they couldn’t find here, which not only helped put familiar foods on the table but also helped them establish a plot of their previous homeland in their new home country.
Smoked Pork Sausage from The Farm at Bald Hill
I almost always have smoked sausage in the freezer. It’s versatile, tasty and thaws quickly, making it perfect for a quick, mid-week meal. You can grill or pan sear it, then serve it with a salad. Or you can use it to make a quick and hearty pasta dish, which is one of my favorite uses. Chop and sauté the sausage with garlic and crushed red pepper flakes, add some Lacinato kale or broccoli rabe, then cook it down with a little chicken stock, fish sauce and apple cider vinegar. Finally, toss it with orecchiette, feta, Parmesan, parsley and good olive oil. Lately, the smoked sausage in my freezer is from The Farm at Bald Hill, which is in East Texas and is operated by Justin Berry and Treasure Hance. The duo is focused on raising grass-fed beef, pasture-raised heritage-breed hogs and regenerative agriculture, which is developing farming methods that improve and maintain soil health, the water cycle and biodiversity. The result for consumers is high-quality meats that are available at Houstonarea farmers markets such as the Urban Harvest Farmers Market, Galveston’s Own Farmers Market or via online ordering. To learn more visit thefarmtx.com.
Inspired by his parent’s experiences, Vũ has delved into archival materials, conducted extensive interviews, and researched his own family’s history to craft an important book that explores the historical and geopolitical context of Vietnamese American food gardens, revealing the deeper significance of these often humble yet lush plots growing fruits and vegetables such as kumquats, bananas, bitter melon, rau ram, okra and water spinach. Farm-to-Freedom is a must read for anyone who wants to better understand the experiences of Vietnamese Americans and the importance of food and foodways for immigrants and refugees trying to remain connected to their culture, cuisine and homeland while forging new homes in a new land.
Rapha Kitchen + Co Sourdough Crackers
Delicate. Ethereal. Crispy. Those are the words that come to mind when I bite into Rapha Kitchen + Co’s petal-thin crackers. The two friends who started this Houston-based company in a garage are using long-fermented sourdough to make their gossamer wafers, which are available in four flavors: cracked pepper, flake salt, everything (sesame, garlic, onion, poppy, Maldon flake salt) and garden herb (oregano, basil, thyme, rosemary, sage, marjoram, garlic, Maldon flake salt). These crackers make a great snack on their own, especially the cracking flavors of the everything, while the more subtle cracked pepper and flake salt varieties pair well with cheese, salami and flavorful dips. You can find them at Henderson & Kane or order them for pickup at raphakitchenandco.com, where you can also purchase other items such as sourdough sandwich loaves, frozen sourdough pizza dough, pickles, pesto and more.
Winery & Vineyard Tasting Room Fredericksburg Main Street Tasting Room
Private & Public Events / Chef’s Table Luncheon beckervineyards.com
WORDS AND PHOTOS BY DAVID LEFTWICH
books.
PX PROJECT CAFÉ OPENS IN GULFTON
When Meredith Davis, founder and executive director, and Adam Garcia, executive chef and director of operations, launched the PX Project in 2020, they had a long-term goal of opening a café where alumni of the organization’s 18-week, culinaryfocused, life-skills program could utilize what they learned. Four years later, that café is open.
The eatery is in a beautiful, new building in Gulfton that is home to several other communityfocused programs and to PX’s new larger, wellequipped teaching kitchen, which allows them to help more marginalized people between 18 and 25, many of them immigrants and refugees living in the surrounding neighborhoods.
Staffed by former program fellows, the café is currently open for breakfast and lunch, serving dishes that reflect the cultures rubbing shoulders on the area’s soccer fields and school yards — dishes such as a galvanic beef bulgogi bánh mì, perfectly deep-fried pilau balls seasoned with garam masala and served with a grainy housemade mustard, a chopped fattoush salad, and a refreshing watermelon and grilled corn dish served with feta cheese, red onion and mint. Nothing beats good food that is helping a good cause, so go soon and often.
Visit at 6856 Bellaire Blvd. pxproject.org/pxcafe
JOSEPHINE’S GULF COAST IS TRADITION
Since many of us spend our days navigating the city’s concrete sprawl and encountering more grackles than gulls, it can be easy to forget that Houston is a port city and has been since the Laura, in 1837, became the first steamboat to fight its way up Buffalo Bayou to unload groceries and other goods imported from New Orleans. Josephine’s Gulf Coast Tradition, nestled in a midtown mixedused development, helps remind us of how closely our city is connected to salt water and its navigable waterways.
There, executive chef Lucas McKinney, a Mississippi native who spent several years cooking in the kitchens of Underbelly Hospitality, is delving deep into Gulf Coast cuisine to create some of the best seafood dishes in Houston such as a delightful smoked redfish dip that balances the rich charcoal hints of a campfire with the tang of lemon remoulade or hearty snapper collars revved up with a jerk spice rub and chili butter. These and other well-executed plates, as well as creative cocktails and a tidy selection of wines and local craft beers, are served in an elegant, yet casual environment decked out with a white tin ceiling and cozy dark wood details — a combination that makes Josephine a perfect place for a special occasion or a weeknight coastal get away.
318 Gray Street | josephinesgulfcoasttradition.com
VUJI CAFÉ SERVES UP TEX-ASIAN DISHES
At some point in the early 2000s, the phrase “fusion cuisine” fell out of favor when nearly every restaurant had a panko-breaded, wasabi-crusted whatnot on its menu. Those two words had become a marketing gimmick instead of a marker for the organic innovation that occurs when cuisines influence each other. But in diverse cities such as Houston, where cultures from around the world intermingle in strip centers, high schools, office cafeterias and neighborhood parks, those culinary creations didn’t stop just because The Cheesecake Factory put Tex Mex eggrolls on its menu. Instead, Houston became home to dishes like Viet-Cajun crawfish and the Brisket Burnt End Steam Buns at Blood Bros. BBQ and the entire menu at Jūn. Now, Houston is also home to Vuji Café’s Tex-Asian dishes inspired by Japanese sandos.
Co-founders Ian So and Tristan Nguyen, along with chef Kevin Villanueva, have substituted the sandos traditional milk bread with Texas toast and traditional fillings such as tamago with century egg salad that combines salted duck eggs, century eggs and yuzu avocado mash, which is one of seven sandwiches they are currently offering in their modern-casual eatery detailed with wood accents and sleek wood furniture inspired by Japanese design. My current favorite layers the hearty Texas toast with a delicate Hainan-style chicken enlivened by a snappy ginger-scallion sauce. They even offer a dessert sando that combines marshmallow with a creamy ube pandan filling and crispy Japanese wafers. With superb confluences of cuisines like these popping up all over Houston, it’s past time to come up with a new adjective to describe them, or heck, just bring back “fusion.”
Visit at 718 West 18th Street | vuji.cafe
KATAMI DEBUTS IN HARLOW
Since Manabu “Chef Hori” Horiuchi, who has earned four James Beard Award nominations, opened Kata Robata in 2009, it has consistently been one of Houston’s top restaurants, loved by diners, critics, chefs and my daughter (it’s one of her all-time favorites). So, it was exciting news when Horiuchi and his partners announced they were opening a second restaurant, Katami, in the Harlow District, the redeveloped site that was home to Nino’s and Vincent’s, two of Houston’s favorite restaurants until the passing of owner Vincent Mandola.
Following in Kata Robata’s and Mandola’s footsteps, Horiuchi and his team have created another destination-worthy restaurant. Katami, which means gift or memento in Japanese, is a luxuriousyet-minimalist, sushi-focused establishment offering both omakase at the 12-seat sushi bar and a-la-carte options from razor-sharp nigiri to impeccably crafted makimono such as The Southern Smoke Roll made with fatty tuna belly, caviar and shiso.
In addition to his precise sushi, Horiuchi creates innovative dishes such as a toro tar tar that combines fatty tuna with peanuts, a quail egg, taro chips and kimchi to create a luscious version of a classic dish that is laced with the just-right amount of
crunch and served with milk bread toast. He has also developed an extensive selection of wagyu dishes featuring 100 percent Japanese A5 that range from lightly seared, thin slices to unctuous wagyu menchi katsu, which are panko-fried pork and beef meatballs served street-food style in a brown-paper bag. For dessert, try the kakigōri, shaved ice, made with ice from Japan and finished with fun toppings such as chocolate ice cream, mascarpone cream, Nutella and strawberry.
Visit at 2701 W. Dallas St. | katamihouston.com
COASTLINE PIZZERIA GRLLS TEXAS-STYLE PIES
A new wave of quality pizza joints is springing up in the Houston area, featuring styles such as Detroit, Chicago Tavern and Buffalo. Coastline Pizzeria, which opened in late 2023 just north of downtown on Houston Avenue, is offering the less big-city-American, more traditional Neapolitan style and a thin-crust, grilled pizza it’s calling Texasstyle. The Neapolitan dough is fermented for 36 to 48 hours giving it a lacey tang and a satisfying chew once it’s baked in the wood-fired oven just long enough to start bubbling and charring the crust. Besides the crust, the essence of Neapolitan pizza is featuring just a few high-quality ingredients on each creation, which is what Coastline does on their tidy menu of five pies. I thoroughly enjoyed the margherita, whose piquant San Marzano tomato sauce and dots of melted mozzarella di bufala were elevated by springy leaves of basil. Note, the Neapolitan pizzas are only served after 4 p.m., once the wood-fired oven has reached the proper temperature.
Served all day, the Texas-style features a hearty, yet thin crust that is grilled and baked. It’s the pizza you wish they served you as a kid: an array of delightful ingredients on a crispy crust punctuated with just a hint of spongy lightness. The pizzas, along with a few small plates, sandwiches (lunch only), wine, beer and fun cocktails, are served in a warm-toned yet lively, historic space reminiscent of Brooklyn, Philly or Bayonne, NJ — it’s the East Coast pizza joint Houston didn’t know it needed. Visit 1720 Houston Ave. | coastlinepizzeriahtx.com
SECOND SLICE SANDWICH SHOP
OFFERS VARIETY IN EAST END
Second Slice Sandwich Shop is the first business you see when you walk into the Ironworks, a renovated, historic, 60,000-square-foot industrial building in Houston’s East End. The space that once manufactured oilfield equipment has been converted into an innovative warren of colorful shipping containers, layered and stacked at right angles, that house retail shops, Segundo Coffee Lab, GoJui Acai Bowls & Smoothies and Second Slice.
Founded in 2021 by Lucia and Jesse Rodriguez, Second Slice offers a variety of sandwiches and Mexican hot dogs, from its signature Pizza Melt, which is loaded with pepperoni, Havarti and marinara, to a bacon-wrapped hot dog with avocado, tomatoes, cilantro, jalapeños and Frenchfried onions. There are also several BLT and grilled cheese options, such as the spicy grilled cheese that laces melted cheddar, Havarti and provolone cheeses with jalapeño to create a kicked-up variation of a comfort food classic.
Visit at 711 Milby St. @worldfamoussecondslice
Left: Deep-fried Pilau Balls at PX Cafe
Middle: Snapper Collars at Josephine's Gulf Coast Tradition
Right: Hainan Chicken Sando at Vuji Cafe
Left Top: Toro Tar Tar at Katami
Left Bottom: Hainan Chicken Sando at Vuji Cafe
Right Top: Jalapeño grilled cheese at Second Slice
Right Bottom: Margherita Pizza Napoletana at Coastline Pizzeria
Ready to shake up your drink game and discover a new class level? Look no further than Sake, Japan’s iconic pour that’s perfect for today’s party scene. Whether you’re chilling at a sushi spot, hosting. or mixing up cocktails, sake’s complexity and smoothness make for the perfect addition to your lineup.
SAKE: THE ULTIMATE WINGMAN
Pair Sake with non-Japanese foods for a match made in Heaven.
SAKE AND CHEESE Match fruity Daiginjo with goat cheese, Junmai with Manchego, Kimoto with Emmental.
SAKE AND SEAFOOD Pour a glass of creamy Junmai to serve with oysters, Ginjo with lobster, and Daiginjo with caviar.
SAKE AND CHARCUTERIE Sakes perfectly complement the rich flavors of cured meats and Texas barbeque.
SAKE AND SPICY Sake smoothness tempers spicy Tex-Mex and Southern heat.
SAKE AND DESSERTS Sake’s sweetness complements fruit tarts and chocolate truffles.
UNLEASH THE FLAVOR
EDIBLE VARIETALS
BIG, BOLD AND BOOMING
It’s big and bold like Texas,” says Dr. Robert Young as he describes his signature tannat wine. Young is CEO and executive winemaker at Bending Branch Winery in Comfort, Texas. He’s also a retired medical doctor, affectionately known as Dr. Bob. “It’s like Cab on steroids,” he says of the varietal, pronounced “tuh-not.”
As soon as you take a sip of this deep purple wine, you’ll understand what he means. Robust, dry and packed with flavors such as blackberry, tobacco and vanilla, tannat is a slow-sipping wine with delicious complexity. Wine lovers appreciate it for its bold, striking qualities and its ability to take any steak dinner to the next level or just be enjoyed on its own. Collectors appreciate the wine’s capacity to age well. And winemakers and growers across the state love tannat’s versatility and hardiness as well as the way it resonates with Texans. A grape with origins in Madiran, a small village in southwest France with a climate similar to that of the Texas Hill Country, tannat is making a big impression in the Lone Star state. While Uruguay, the secondest largest tannat grower after France, may call it the country’s national grape, Texas tannat is gaining notoriety in the United States.
After years of traveling to wineries with his wife and then meeting Dr. Richard Becker and his former partner and wife Bunny of Becker Vineyards and learning their story, he began thinking that working with wine might offer everything he was looking for. He purchased acreage in Comfort that was close to his daughter and conducive to grape-growing. It’s situated on a hill at an elevation of 1,730 feet with good soil, good drainage and solid protection from frost.
After attending University of California, Davis’s online winemaking program, Young put his love of research and in-depth knowledge of chemistry into action by planting a vineyard and studying the performance of various grapes and winemaking processes. On 16 acres, he planted 16 varietals such as tempranillo, petite sirah, cabernet sauvignon, aglianico and malbec. Then he observed which grew well, held strong through the Texas heat and made great-tasting local wine.
After thorough testing, tannat was the clear winner. “There was nothing even close to it,” says Young, “Tannat is hands down a better grower, more effective in fighting off disease and more droughttolerant than any of the other vines.”
In addition to these beneficial qualities, likely aided by the grape’s thick skin, he also found tannat to be more versatile. It could produce rosé, bold reds and port. Not only that, he found tannat to be rich in procyanidins — what we might notice as smooth tannins. It’s a compound in red wine that research by Roger Corder, Ph.D., published in Nature in 2006, had shown to enhance blood flow in the body. What more could a doctor ask for?
“When you look at the science of wine, there’s a category of compounds that really have the most profound impact on the wine — they’re called polyphenols,” says Young. Polyphenols include the color molecules, the flavor molecules and the tannins. “Outside of acid, those are the most important three things in the grapes,” he says. Polyphenols are also a type of antioxidant, which some research suggests can help neutralize harmful free radicals. Young’s mission soon became, “How do we take a Texas red grape and get more of those wonderful compounds extracted from the grape and into the wine?”
So, Young invested in growing more tannat on Bending Branch. He even sent some of his tannat vines to nearby Newsom Vineyards and other growers to ensure he’d always have access if his vineyard faced weather extremes.
Next, Young began testing to determine how best to harness the natural goodness found in tannat, or what Bending Branch general manager Jennifer Cernosek calls “amplifying all of the grape’s natural qualities.” Young observed that common winemaking practices only extract one-third to 40 percent of the polyphenols in the fruit. So, he invested in top-tier equipment to propel innovation.
“The first thing we did is experiment with cryomaceration — a fancy word that means we freeze the fruit, keep it frozen for several weeks to a few months, then we thaw it out and ferment it,” says Young.
This resulted in preserving about 25 to 50 percent more polyphenols than a control batch using whole-berry fermentation, a way of making wine in open top bins by hand. It also passed the test, with flying colors, when it came to taste.
Another process that results in extracting even more of these key compounds is flash détente, which Young is the first to use in Texas. “For this process, we do the opposite of freezing,” he explains, “We put the fruit into a tank and then it gets heated up to 178 degrees Fahrenheit for a few minutes, then it immediately gets transferred to a tank, which is a vacuum chamber.” There, the components of the grape skin that contain the polyphenols “burst open,” resulting in extraction increasing to about 80 percent, which “translates to more color, more flavor and more tannins,” according to Young.
An additional benefit of these boundary-breaking approaches is they are certified organic and sustainable. “I think it’s important to use the fewest chemicals possible, not only for the sake of the land but for the sake of health, the long-term health of everybody,” Young says. In 2010, Bending Branch opened its tasting room with tannat on the menu, a 2008 vintage. The winery is now known as pioneers of tannat in Texas, along with Westcave Cellars and Reddy Vineyards. You can find their signature tannat in many H-E-B’s, and it is a staple for many Texan’s wine cellars. Last year, they harvested more than 90 tons of tannat, and vineyards in California are purchasing their vines.
Bending Branch currently offers more than nine different tannats, many of them award-winning. Whether you are looking for an elegant dry rosé, a vibrant frizzante rosé or a trademark bold red, you can find an expression of tannat to surprise and delight you. If you’re concerned about the off-the-beaten-path trek to Comfort, don’t. The drive to Bending Branch is an attraction in itself, filled with beautiful twists and turns through unobstructed country. Their tasting room is casual and welcoming, embracing the warm hospitality that Young and his team exude, plus it has a panoramic view of rolling hills.
Young’s thoughtful, scientific approach, which has yielded awardwinning wines, has inspired others to get into the business and to make their own tannats.
One of those is Mike Nelson, co-founder and winemaker at Ab Astris Winery between Stonewall and Hye. He grew up visiting the Central Coast of California with his parents, fostering a deep appreciation for wine and the wine community there. He fell in love with Texas wine at Bending Branch as he enjoyed a glass of their tannat during a visit to the Texas Hill Country in 2009–2010. “One of my biggest Aha! moments with Texas wine was Texas tannat. I had never heard of the varietal when I tasted it. It just blew my socks off! I fell in love. It was life-changing,” says Nelson.
Photo courtesy of Bending Branch Winery
WORDS BY STACEY INGRAM KALEH
Mike Nelson photo by Ab Astris Winery
“
The experience inspired Nelson, who studied law, along with his wife and co-founder Kristen, to take the leap into wine making and move to the Hill Country. They both thought the area was on the verge of becoming a wine community like some of the regions they were familiar with in California.“I felt like Texas was on the verge of something special,” he shares.
Since his first visit to Bending Branch, Nelson kept in touch with John Rivenburgh, a co-founder and former winemaker with Young. As he and Kristen forged plans for their own winery in 2015, they hired Rivenburgh as a consultant. Nelson considers him an invaluable mentor. “He helped with our first vintage and subsequently taught me how to make wine, how to manage a vineyard, and how to drive a tractor and a forklift. He taught me, a city boy and former attorney, everything I needed to know over the course of about four years,” says Nelson.
When Nelson and his partners started planning Ab Astris, they found land tucked away off “Wine Road 290,” a stone’s throw from the historic Junction School, where President Lyndon B. Johnson attended as a young boy and returned in 1965 to sign the Elementary and Secondary Education Act into Law. There, they immediately planted tannat.
Ab Astris opened in 2018 and started serving, in a gorgeous tasting room, its first estate-grown tannat in 2022. Nelson now makes at least three tannats each year. Beyond the estate wine, he sources grapes from Newsom Vineyards and the Texas High Plains.
“Tannat is excellent because it produces very high-quality fruit. It can ripen to the right point, it grows well in Texas. It’s low maintenance, low intervention,” says Nelson. According to Nelson, the Ab Astris’ 2020 Estate Tannat, which is aged in neutral oak and American oak, evokes the flavors of blackberry cobbler. “It is one of the only wines we’ve ever gotten the acidity, the PH, the sugar, everything at the perfect level, so we did very little to it once we started processing it,” he says. “When you’re in the situation where you have to do very little to very good fruit, you’re in the territory of exceptional wine,”
He enjoys pairing it with ribeye and gamey meats like venison and bison or, for a lighter bite, Chaumes cheese on a crostini with a dash of blackberry jam. If you are looking for other tips, Nelson reminds us, “what grows together, goes together,” and encourages
customers to seek local, in-season products and to pair them with Texas wines made from varietals that grow well in their area.
Kelsey Kramer, director of education at William Chris Wine Company and the Hill Country Wine Academy, also highlights that power of place. She says William Chris’ approach to making tannat (and other varietals) is “about letting the grape variety showcase the place where it grows.”
William Chris currently grows about seven acres of tannat on its estate in Hye, and also sources grapes from vineyards in the Texas Hill Country and High Plains, like Vintage Press and Timmons Estate Vineyard. According to Kramer, the goal is to “showcase a raw expression of tannat, with mostly neutral barrel aging, primarily unblended tannat, with the intention of it developing over time in bottle, revealing its core.”
What’s at the core of this wine? “Tannat is structure, leather, tobacco and wild berries,” Kramer says. “It is far more tannic than cabernet sauvignon, less fruity, and more brooding." Kramer says she personally enjoys the challenge of coaxing the available fruit from tannat, which is not predominantly fruity, to bring it into balance with the other aromas natural to the grape. “This grape naturally smells like Texas, rough around the edges with aromas reminiscent of horseback riding and woodland areas,” Kramer says.
Beyond its enticing flavor and aroma profiles, tannat has a big personality. It’s audacious and memorable. “Tannat embodies the idea that everything is truly bigger in Texas,” Kramer says. “Not only that, but very practically, wines made from this grape can age in a cellar for 15 years, while also being quite pleasant to drink when young, which is when the wine is at its boldest and driest. Not all wines have this dual capability.” For wine lovers at any stage of their wine journey, this makes tannat a must-have for your collection as well as a great addition to any dinner party, especially if you want to show off how great Texas wines with Texas characteristics can be.
As we linger in the drawn-out Texas summer and embrace the fun and familiar chaos of fall — heading back to school, enjoying festival season and prepping for holidays — there’s no better time to create special moments to unwind with a glass of tannat from a local winery.
Sip on a glass or pick up a bottle of Tannat at these Texas wineries and others:
Ab Astris Wintery
320 Klein Rd. Stonewall, TX 78671 abastriswinery.com @abastriswinery
Augusta Vin
140 Augusta Vin Ln. Fredericksburg, TX 78624 augustavin.com @augustavinwinery
Bell Springs Winery
3700 Bell Springs Rd. Dripping Springs, TX 78620 bellspringswinery.com
@bellspringswinery
Bending Branch Winery
142 Lindner Branch Rd. Comfort, TX 78013
bendingbranchwinery.com @bendingbranchwinery
Busted Oak Cellars
6195 Round Top Rd. Carmine, TX 78932 bustedoakcellars.com @bustedoakcellars
Hye Meadow Winery
10257 W. US Hwy 290 Hye, TX 78635 hyemeadow.com @hyemeadow_winery
Lewis Wines
3209 US Hwy 290 Johnson City, TX 78636 lewiswines.com @lewiswines
Llano Estacado Winery
3426 E. FM 1585 Lubbock, TX 79404 Llanowine.com @llanowine
Majek Vineyard
12508 FM 957 Schulenberg, TX 78956 majekvineyard.com @majekvineyard
Portree Cellars
668 RM 1320
Johnson City, TX 78638 portreecellars.com @portree_cellars
107 Pecan St. Hico, TX 76457 silverspurwinery.com @silver_spur_winery
Slate Theory
10915 E. US Hwy. 290 Fredericksburg, TX 78624 slatetheory.com @slatetheorywinery
Texas Heritage Vineyard
3245 E. US Hwy. 290 Fredericksburg, TX 78624 texasheritagevineyard.com @texasheritagevineyard
Westcave Cellars 683 Ranch Road 1320
Johnson City, TX 78636 westcavecellars.com @westcavecellars
Wedding Oak Winery
316 E. Wallace St. San Saba, TX 76877
6009B E. US Hwy 290 Fredericksburg, TX 78624
229 S. Pierce Burnet, TX 78611 weddingoakwinery.com @weddingoakwine
Wildseed Farms
100 Legacy Dr. Fredericksburg, TX 78624 wildseedfarms.com @wildseedfarms
Stacey Ingram Kaleh is a native of the Texas Hill Country. Born and raised in Austin, she lives in Spicewood with her husband, two young daughters and fluffy dog Zeus. She’s been exploring Texas wineries for more than a decade, enjoying great wine, stellar company and scenic views as she learns from local winemakers. Follow her wine adventures on Instagram @TXWineGirl.
Pedernales Cellars
2916 Upper Albert Rd. Stonewall, TX 78671 pedernalescellars.com @pedernalescellars
3201 Kirby Drive Houston, TX 77098
William Chris Vineyards
10352 US Hwy 290 Hye, TX 78635 williamchriswines.com @williamchrisvineyards
Nostalgic for Napoli
BELOVED
ITALIAN
RESTAURANT CELEBRATES 29 YEARS AND CENTURIES OF TRADITIONS
WORDS BY BLEAH PATTERSON
Surprisingly, many Italian immigrants to the United States journeyed not only from Ellis Island into northeastern states like New York, but also from the ports of New Orleans and Galveston into southern states like Texas. In the late 19th century, numerous Italian families settled in places such as Nacogdoches and Galveston, making East Texas their home. Even Galveston’s oldest restaurant is Italian, Gaido’s, which opened in 1911. By 1913, Italian immigrants in Houston had opened two pasta factories, Houston Macaroni Manufacturing Co. and Magnolia Macaroni
Manufacturing & Co. Many Italian families were drawn to Houston’s proximity to the coast. Families could settle in Houston neighborhoods, and then travel to the coast for lucrative shrimping jobs. Throughout the early 20th century, Houston became a hub for Italian families who introduced their food and culture into the Bayou City. Now, it’s hard to imagine Houston existing without their influence.
Like many southerners, Italian Americans prioritize family, hospitality and sharing meals together. The family-owned Original Napoli on Beechnut is a microcosm of this culture. The restaurant has been around since 1996 and serves handmade pizzas, calzones and
an incredibly flavorful and large Greek salad. This spread is one my own family looked forward to. Original Napoli is the place our family gathered anytime we were all together: a dozen grandchildren, aunts and uncles, and our family’s matriarch — my grandmother. To host all of us, the staff would kindly push tables together, and we made memories around those tables, enjoying the owners’ family dishes and traditions.
I would always order a calzone and drench it in the restaurant's fresh and well-seasoned marinara sauce. The calzone would ooze rich mozzarella and creamy ricotta. Young, full of excitement, I’d swear I’d never had a better meal. My uncle would wait specifically for these gatherings to order the restaurant’s pizza topped with custom ingredients such as ricotta, fresh green peppers and Italian sausage. He wouldn’t bother ordering pizza anywhere else.
Recently, I visited Original Napoli for the first time in over 10 years — the last time I went was for my high school graduation in 2012 — and found myself instantly cocooned in familiar nostalgia. The interior hasn’t changed. Even better, the food hasn’t changed either. The ricotta is still prominent in their cheese calzone, regardless of how many extras you add inside. This has always been my favorite aspect of their calzones: the silky mozzarella and the rich ricotta make the dish feel decadent, something I recognized and craved even as a small child. I ordered mine plain, just like I did then, and my husband ordered his loaded with meat and veggies. Both came out golden brown, and paired with that same savory and fresh marinara sauce I remember. I haven’t been able to find a calzone that rivals it.
I spoke with the owner, Zachery “Papa Zack” Ray, about his mission for the restaurant as well as how he and his team have managed to stay consistent in their practices and in our lives for so many years. Ray opened his first restaurant, The Original Napoli on Memorial Drive, in 1995 in the shell of an old Long John Silver’s. That location still stands and operates today, and celebrated its 29-year anniversary this past summer. The location on Beechnut, my family’s haunt, was opened a year later. Born the same year as me, it makes sense that this restaurant became a core memory for me.
Though Ray graduated with a degree from the University of Houston in hotel and restaurant management, in his heart knew he was a chef. His mother was Italian, his father was also from the Mediterranean, and his family third-generation immigrants. They came to the Houston area for many of the same reasons as those before them — searching for a place to raise a successful family. His family’s idea of success was always in food, he said. He recalled his love of preparation, of careful ingredients and of the incredible sense of taste he inherited from his mother.
“I watched my mother cook,” he says. “But anyone can follow a recipe. Not everyone can handle ingredients the same, only a chef can.” He said that he considers himself a chef first, business owner second, and that is why the calzones, pizza and rolls at The Original Napoli have tasted the same since I was a little girl.
“Tell them Papa Zack is in the kitchen every single day, so even when he takes a day off everybody cooks just like him because he’s the one who taught them!” he says, enthusiastically, speaking of himself in a mythological third person.
“The way you sauté garlic and onion together is not something you can learn, it can be the same ingredients but it’s in instinct and technique. It’s in your blood and in your DNA. The chef is the most important ingredient in the recipe.”
This idea of family is an important one to Ray and to the ethos of both locations of The Original Napoli. His mother, when her health allowed, was always in the restaurant making sure everything was clean and orderly. His father designed the interiors of the restaurants so that they would pay homage to Italian restaurants back home where he grew up. Even Ray’s children, who have found callings in marketing, graphic design and finance, contribute to the restaurant's operations.
Ray knows that taste is the most important part of his restaurants. And he is fastidious when it comes to his cooking, using only fresh ingredients, topping all pizzas and filling all stromboli and calzones by hand, and using only a stone oven. His favorite ingredient of any dish is the dough.
“I love my Italian food, my pizzas and my dough. Our dough is important, we use New York-style filtered water. We never roll our dough, everything is hand tossed, traditionally to order,” he says.
When I told him what the Original Napoli meant to my own family, Ray was touched.
“We are a family restaurant, for families and by families,” he says.
Visit The Original Napoli locations at 5266 Beechnut Street and 14743 Memorial Drive.
Much of her work explores the contention between identity and home and has been featured by various journals including Electric Literature, Write or Die, Phoebe Literature and Taco Bell Quarterly.
Bleah Patterson is a southern poet and writer born and raised in Texas.
Left Page: Calzone photo by David Leftwich
Right Page:
Left: Cannoli photo by Original Napoli
Right: Photo by Original Napoli
Soup for You!
MULLIGATAWNY, THAT SOUP FROM THAT “SEINFELD” EPISODE WORDS
AND PHOTOS BY SHUBHRA RAMINENI
No soup for you!" Her, with a snarky air of confidence: "I can make my own soup."
YES, YOU CAN. You definitely can. And you don’t need to find a secret recipe in the drawer of an old armoire, handwritten on crackly, antique rice paper. (By the way, if you get this reference, I am sure you have a nostalgic smile on your face now.)
When I first watched the infamous “Seinfeld” soup episode many, many years ago, I admit it was the first time I had heard of mulligatawny soup. The episode's strict soup purveyor was so proud of his soups — his mulligatawny being the most popular — that he had rules for which customers were deserving enough to order. I was very intrigued by this soup that customers stood diligently for in a long line, so I did some research. Turns out, mulligatawny is an Indian soup I’d never heard of! Although my family is Indian, we’re from northern India, this soup originated in the southern part of the country, specifically in the state of Tamil Nadu. The name comes from the Tamil language, milagu tanni, which translates to pepper water. The invading British at the time enjoyed this soup very much, and butchered the pronunciation to what we now commonly say as "mulligatawny." The main ingredient is lentils, specifically the yellow mung variety. You may be familiar with green mung lentils, which are commonly sprouted. Yellow mung is the whole green mung lentil that has been hulled. This is a mechanical process that removes the green outer shell, revealing a yellow inside. Further mechanical steps split the yellow lentil in half. When the whole lentil is hulled (shelled and split), the cook time is decreased, and a pressure cooker is not even needed. You can find yellow mung at Indian grocery stores, online and sometimes in the bulk section of grocery stores. This is not to be mistaken for split yellow peas, which are thicker, take longer to cook and have a different taste.
Years passed since seeing the Seinfeld episode, and I forgot about this soup and I still hadn’t tried it. When I was working on the table of contents for the chapter on lentils in my first Indian cookbook, Entice with Spice: Easy and Quick Indian Recipes for Beginners , mulligatawny soup popped into my head. I was curious about it and then I began noticing it on many Indian restaurant menus. Was it always there, and I never noticed it before? I tried it at a few restaurants around town, and then created my own recipe based on the basic elements of yellow mung lentils, a creamy consistency and a strong peppery bite. (Some versions also include chicken, which is Batman’s favorite food, according to Alfred in another pop-culture mention of mulligatawny soup).
Making mulligatawny soup from scratch is surprisingly easy for such a hearty and beautiful dish. The soup starts off as a basic Indian lentil stew, called a dal. The yellow lentils are boiled with tomatoes until soft. The next step requires the use of a blender (I prefer an immersion blender to keep things quick and dishes to a minimum). Purée until smooth and you do not see any individual lentil grains. Then add simple spices, and, of course, a good amount of black pepper. This warm and filling soup gets its rich consistency from heavy cream, which also makes this soup a hearty, comforting dish to enjoy during chilly weather! Peas and potatoes are also added to the soup to give it a satisfying touch. You could also add chicken if you like, or even leave out the peas or potatoes, depending on your personal preference.
Including this soup on this year’s Thanksgiving menu will be a unique and delicious addition, not to mention a good conversation topic. It will also be a welcome addition throughout the fall and winter months. This soup is also hearty enough to be enjoyed as a meal by itself, especially with a slice of your favorite crusty bread. It is an excellent one-pot dish to take to the office or pack for a school lunch in a thermos, and perfect for holiday gatherings and to take to potluck parties. Mulligatawny soup also freezes well. You can put it in individual or pint size containers to keep on hand in your freezer for a busy weeknight dinner after an exhausting day at work.
So now, if you watch a rerun of the “Seinfeld” soup episode, you will know all about the soup that was denied to Elaine, and you can make it in the comfort of your home and enjoy it as often as you like. Visit spicegirlkitchen.com to find more recipes.
Creamy Mulligatawny Soup
Serves 4
Prep time: 5 minutes
Cook time: 35 minutes
Refrigerator Life: 3 days
Freezer Life: 1 month
Reheating Method: Place the refrigerated or defrosted soup in a microwave, cover and stir periodically, or place it in a saucepan over medium-low heat and stir periodically.
½ c. yellow lentils (dhuli moong dal)
3¼ c. water
1 small fully ripe tomato, such as plum (Roma), cut in half
½ c. frozen green peas
1 small russet potato (about ¼ lb), peeled and cut into ½-in cubes
¼ t. ground turmeric
¼ t. ground red pepper (cayenne)
¾ t. salt
½ t. ground black pepper
¼ c. heavy cream
8 to 12 fresh mint leaves, rinsed (for garnish) (optional)
PREPARATION
Place the lentils on a plate. Sift through them and remove any grit. Transfer the lentils to a small bowl. Rinse the lentils 3 times by repeatedly filling the bowl with cold water and carefully draining off the water. It’s okay if the water is a bit frothy. Place the lentils, water and tomato in a medium saucepan. Bring to a rolling boil over high heat. Again, it’s okay if the water gets frothy. Stir and reduce the heat to medium. Cook for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally and lightly mashing the tomato. Reduce the heat to low and cover the saucepan. Simmer until the lentils are completely soft, stirring occasionally, about 7 minutes. Turn off the heat and transfer the contents to a blender. Purée until smooth. Pour the blended lentil mixture back into the saucepan. (Or use an immersion blender and purée right in the saucepan.) Add the peas, potato, turmeric, red pepper, salt and black pepper. Stir to combine. Bring to a rolling boil over high heat. Stir and reduce the heat to medium-low. Cover the saucepan and cook for 5 minutes, stirring every minute or so to keep the soup from burning on the bottom of the pan. Add the heavy cream. Stir to combine. Cover the saucepan. Cook, stirring every minute, until you can easily insert a knife through the potato cubes, about 5 minutes. Enjoy now or let cool to room temperature and refrigerate for later! Garnish each portion with 2 or 3 mint leaves before serving.
is a first-generation Indian American raised in Houston. She is the author of two award-winning Indian cookbooks Entice with Spice: Easy and Quick Indian Recipes for Beginners and Healthy Indian Vegetarian Cooking that are available at local bookstores, and online.
Recipe courtesy of Shubhra Ramineni from her cookbook, Entice with Spice: Easy and Quick Indian Recipes for Beginners
Shubhra Ramineni
What's In Season
SEASONAL HIGHLIGHTS
This Fall
Fall is all about colors, all the reds, purples, and greens you can think of!
Orange hues in winter squashes such as butternut, spaghetti and cushaw but also in sweet fruits like persimmon
Beautiful shades of green in chards, mustards, kales, spinach and sweet potato greens
Year round mushrooms! Oysters, shitake, lion's mane pippino and many more
From the Gulf Brown Shrimp (from mid-July)
For more information on farmers markets, seasonal recipes and what’s in season, visit ediblehouston.com
French Onion Soup
Recipe and photos by Pauline Stevens
½ c. unsalted butter
2 T. olive oil
4 c. sliced onions
5 c. beef broth
1 t. dried thyme
1 pinch salt and pepper to taste
4 slices French bread
4 slices provolone cheese
¼ c. grated Parmesan cheese
Worcestershire sauce
Sprigs of fresh thyme
PREPARATION
Melt butter with olive oil in an 8-quart pot over medium heat. Add onions until tender and translucent. Do not brown the onions. Add beef broth, and thyme. Season with salt and pepper. Let simmer for 30 minutes. Serve soup into bowls and place 1-3 slices of French bread on top of each. Layer each slice of bread with a slice of provolone and 1 tablespoon Parmesan cheese. Broil bowls until cheese bubbles and browns slightly, 2 to 3 minutes. Carefully remove and add thyme and Worcestershire sauce to taste.
Beside her passion for photography, Pauline Stevens enjoys traveling and baking. She also visits every possible farmers market, even between frequent visits to NYC where her quadruplet sons live. Follow her store on IG @redbirdshouse.
Pumpkin Empanadas
Serves 4
1 12 oz. can of pumpkin puree
2 c. dark brown sugar
1 T. orange zest
1 T. butter
1 t. cinnamon
1/8 t. ground cloves
1/8 t. ground nutmeg
1/8 t. salt
1 T. sugar Puff pastry
1 egg mixture with 2 t. of water
Crystal sugar for decoration
PREPARATION
In a small saucepan over medium heat, add pumpkin puree, brown sugar, butter, orange zest, cinnamon, cloves, nutmeg and salt. Cook, stirring well, until sugar is dissolved, about 3 minutes. Transfer pumpkin mixture to bowl; chill in refrigerator until cold. Heat oven to 425°F. On a lightly floured work surface, using a rolling pin, roll out the puff pastry until thin and even. Cut 6” circles. Spoon about 2 tablespoons of cooked pumpkin mixture into the middle of dough. Wet edges with beaten eggs; fold in half to form half-moon shape. Seal edges by pressing with fork; transfer to baking sheet. Brush tops of empanadas with beaten eggs; sprinkle with sugar crystal. Bake until empanadas are puffed and golden brown, about 20 minutes, rotating pan after 10 minutes.
Embrace the Season
As autumn approaches and temperatures cool (hopefully), the spirit of celebration comes alive in the heart of the Lone Star State. From the vibrant city streets of Austin to the rich cultural tapestry of San Antonio, and the bustling urban landscape of Houston, fall festivals are the perfect way to embrace the season. These events offer a chance to indulge in local flavors, enjoy live music and experience the unique traditions that define each region. Whether you're a family looking for a fun outing, a foodie looking to sample some new fare or you are simply looking to make the most of the season, there's a festival waiting for you this fall in Central Texas.
Texas Pumpkin Fest (Leander/Austin area)
October 4–31, weekends + Halloween
Admission: $15
texaspumpkinfest.com
“Where joy is as abundant as the pumpkins!” If you love all things Halloween, don’t miss this festival that’s sure to get you in the spooky spirit. This is the largest pumpkin patch in the state, making it the perfect place to spend an afternoon wandering along the “Yellow Hay Road,” choosing your own pumpkins from a massive colorful array. With the festive fall decor, there are great photo ops all over the property. To facilitate your pumpkin-picking experience, wheelbarrows and wagons are available. They also sell carving kits. If a good scare is what you’re after, check out the Hall of Monsters, a terrifying indoor attraction, featuring state-of-the-art animatronics and props that will get your spine tingling. Other activities include zombie hayrides, pony rides, laser tag, pumpkin smashing, axe throwing, costume contests, a petting zoo and amusement park-style rides if all the monsters and horrors aren’t enough to get your adrenaline pumping. They also offer tasty food as well as kid-friendly and adult beverages to make sure the whole family stays fueled up.
Sweet Berry Farm’s Harvest of Fall Fun (Marble Falls)
September 21–November 16
Admission: Free! Just pay for activities you choose sweetberryfarm.com
Enjoy old-fashioned family fun at Sweet Berry Farm in Marble Falls. Activities include corn mazes, pumpkin painting, scarecrow stuffing, flower picking and pony rides. The farm is home to many animals that visitors can interact with. On weekends in October, hot dogs,
sandwiches and refreshments are available. And, of course, there’s a pumpkin patch full of pumpkins and gourds to buy and enjoy for the rest of autumn. This is a quintessential fall farm experience!
Gruene Music & Wine Fest
October 10–13
Admission: See below, prices vary gruenemusicandwinefest.org
The Gruene Music & Wine Fest, benefiting the United Way of Comal County, is all about promoting Texas and Americana music and celebrating Texas wine and beer. Festivities start on Thursday with the free Kickoff Party at The Grapevine where visitors can enjoy live music and optional tastings for $45 per person. Friday features Stars and Guitars — a private concert plus meet-n-greet with the headliner, a full-service dinner catered by Gristmill River Restaurant, wine tastings and auction, Saturday is Tastings and Tunes. Admission to enjoy the live music is free and it’s $45 for 10 tasting tickets and a wine glass. Sunday features the Showdown that boasts a lineup of favorite Americana and country artists, pop-up market and food extravaganza.
Dewberry Farm Fall Festival (Brookshire/Houston area) September 14 – November 3
+ Boorific Nights every weekend September 28 through November 3
Admission: $35
dewberryfarm.com
Dewberry Farm’s original owners had a vision of transforming their property in Waller County into a top destination for familyfriendly, farm-based fun. Today, Bryan and Jill Lank — along with their children and grandchildren — are continuing that legacy by providing unforgettable agriculture-focused experiences for visitors. During their Fall Festival, they offer an eight-acre Peanuts (the cartoon)-themed corn maze, a sizeable pumpkin patch, barnyard animals to interact with, a flower garden where you can pick wildflowers, rides galore, tasty treats and endless child-friendly activities. And when the sun sets, it’s time to get your scare on with BOOrific Nights. Depending on how much frightening fun you want to experience, you can opt for the Haunted Hollow’s Trail of Terror, Spooky Acres Creepy Corn Maze, The Freaky Fun Pit or The Haunted Barn. Wander among replica sets of favorite movies and shows like Beetlejuice and Stranger Things and life-sized lanterns of favorite “heroes of horror.” You can even do some axe-throwing with Jason from “Halloween.”
Old Time Christmas Tree Farm Fall Family Fun
(Spring/Houston area): Weekends in October
$10
+ Christmas Family Fun oldtimechristmastree.com
Celebrate the entire holiday season, starting October 1, at this old-timey farm near Houston. In addition to a pumpkin patch, kids can enjoy hayrides and a petting zoo. This family farm is all about getting away for an afternoon and spending quality time with one another, browsing pumpkins, enjoying a variety of food and beverage vendors or engaging in one of their eight attractions.
After Halloween celebrations are over, you can visit again for a picturesque country Christmas experience that includes cutting down your own tree. The farm grows and cares for their pine and Cypress trees year-round so your family can find a full, healthy, beautiful
tree to enhance the warm fuzzy holiday feel in your home. Saws and measuring sticks are provided, so all you have to do is wander the farm until you find the tree that makes you hear angels sing (think “Christmas Vacation”)! If you’d rather not cut down your own tree, the farm offers a variety of pre-cut firs and spruces grown up north that are kept fresh in water. Throughout the season, there are also Christmas attractions and photos with Santa.
WORDS BY ASHLEY BROWN
Left Page: Images by Ralph Yznaga
Right Page:
Top: Photo by Dewberry Farm
Bottom Left: Photo by Old Time Christmas Tree farm
Bottom Right: Photo by Culinaria.org
Texas Renaissance Festival (Todd Mission/Houston area)
Weekends from October 12 to December 1, including Thanksgiving Friday
Admission: Daily tickets, weekend and season passes, prices vary texrenfest.com
Come celebrate the 50th year of the country’s largest Renaissance-themed festival! The festival offers a fantasy land of fairies, pirates and mythical creatures and 19 stages where you can take in a show of your choosing, losing yourself in another time and place. Activities and entertainment abound, including wine tastings, escape room adventures, scavenger hunts, a “Dragon Forging Experience” in which you wield the hammer to forge your own piece, tea and strumpets, jousting, magic, rides and over 400 shops! And with countless food and drink vendors, you will not go hungry! From refreshments like mead or hot cocoa to fun snacks like funnel cakes and beef jerky to Mexican, German, Italian cuisine and more … there is something for everyone. The 77 acres of festival grounds can be overwhelming to the Texas Renaissance Festival newcomer, so you can check out the website for a “Survival Guide for Newbies” as well as maps and details on all of the attractions and activities.
Tasting Texas Wine + Food Festival (San Antonio)
November 8-10
Admission: Ticket prices vary for each day, see website for details culinariasa.org/tasting-texas
This weekend of epicurean indulgence is a must for food and wine lovers. Enjoy live music; discussion panels; workshops on food and drink pairings; cooking classes; and samplings of wines, craft beers, cocktails and delectable bites from Texas chefs and restaurants. Proceeds benefit the James Beard Foundation and its grant program that supports culinary students in Texas.
Tickets are available for the following events throughout the weekend:
• The Grand Tasting is “the ultimate exploration of all things wine, food and cocktails!” This is a casual experience in which visitors can stroll and sample food and drinks at their own pace, getting to know the makers and learning more about their products. You can also take advantage of educational seminars to enhance your cooking skills and learn more about pairing dishes with wine.
• The Becker Luncheon is a luxurious multi-course meal in which each course is thoughtfully paired with a Texas wine. Becker Vineyards, where the luncheon occurs, is a gorgeous and serene oasis surrounded by fields of flowers, lavender and grapevines.
• The Dinners each night are a great way to connect with fellow foodies while enjoying creative dishes invented by local and guest chefs.
San Antonio Beer Festival (San Antonio) Saturday, October 19
Admission: $45–100 sanantoniobeerfestival.com
San Antonio’s original beer fest, founded in 2005, is a must for beer lovers. Going beyond local beers, offerings include over 400 premium and craft beers — porters, stouts, pilsners, ales, ciders, lagers and more — from over 150 breweries from around the world. A great way to soak up a beautiful autumn day, you can also enjoy music, games, local vendors, food trucks and wine. Visitors (21 and up only) are encouraged to bring blankets or chairs and relax for the afternoon. A portion of the proceeds benefit San Antonio Food Bank.
Dia de los Muertos at Hemisfair/Muertos Fest (San Antonio) October 26-27
Admissions: Free! muertosfest.com
This beloved celebration of the traditional Mexican holiday — named one of the 7 Best Fall Festivals in the country by National Geographic and one of the ten Great Day of the Dead Celebrations in the world by USA Today — offers a diverse array of food vendors, processions, music, dance and community-built altars. This year’s festival will be featured on the Cooking Channel’s nationally broadcast show “Carnival Eats!”
Writer and editor Ashley Brown lives in Wimberley with her family of rescues: a dog, two cats, and two donkeys. In addition to animal welfare, her passion is exploring the Hill Country's natural beauty, small farms, eateries and drinkeries.
Left: Photo by San Antonio Beer Festival Right: Photo by Muertos Fest
Good Bakes
THREE BAKERIES ENTICING HOUSTONIANS WITH INVITING SCENTS AND EXCEPTIONAL BAKED GOODS
Heat, flour, water, salt and air. These simple elements plus ancient techniques have been creating something that’s been served at extravagant feasts and on humble tables for centuries — something that we often take for granted despite its majestic qualities. It sustains us in good times and bad times. It’s a spiritual symbol that represents life. It, if you haven’t guessed yet, is bread. As we roll into the cooler months and the holiday season, it’s a perfect time to talk about some of my favorite purveyors of this hearty staple and its sweeter companions, pastries. Angela's Oven
I love my new neighborhood. Due to a fire back in the spring, I had to move. But now I’m within walking distance of the first bakery on my list: Angela’s Oven, which is just north of 20th Street in the Heights at 204 Aurora Street.
Either I’ll stroll the few blocks or take a drive with windows down and listen to the neighborhood rooster offer its song to the freshly broken daylight. As you near the establishment, you’ll notice the
comforting wafts of baked goods and spy pockets of greenery and flowers. Then, you’ll see an old warehouse as red as a barn that owners Jerry and Angela Shawn have transformed into their bakery.
The quality of the goods at Angela’s Oven is top notch, the service impeccable, and you feel more than welcome and never rushed. The breakfast, lunch and baked goods as well as the ingredients they use are top of the line. Many items are made with local products, from the roasted coffee beans to the scrambled eggs to the brioche. Jerry and Angela are the binding links of the community on Aurora Street. Recently, as bread was being baked in the back, I sat down with them over coffee to learn how they started. It all revolved around the Heights where they both grew up and went to school, got married, had kids that grew up in the area and opened their bakery. They were one of the earliest vendors at Urban Harvest’s Farmers Market, where their now-grown children often helped sell the breads and pastries.
But before that, Jerry was a Marine based in California. He would take trips to San Francisco and encountered topnotch sourdough. He realized that he wanted to be in the kitchen, so he eventually began taking classes at the California Culinary Academy. While learning to cut carrots into minute squares, he found himself staring through a large glass wall at people making bread. More intrigued by kneading than slicing, Jerry’s love and drive to work with bread and pastries was born.
My go-tos for breakfast are: the Aurora Breakfast plate, which includes local pastured eggs your way, a protein of choice (go with the sausage patties) and a humongous biscuit; a chocolate éclair; or an iced latte with a house-baked loaf of bread that I can enjoy throughout the week. The brioche is my favorite because I love a slice with a quick soak in a mixture of Mill-King cream, local eggs and cinnamon sugar to make brioche French toast. The baguettes and sourdough are also exceptional. As are the pastries, such as the croissants, which are indulgent and soft. Hands down, go get some when you plan to go out for breakfast.
Magnol French Baking
When I was in college, I minored in anthropology with a focus on food and alcohol and loved learning about French cuisine. I even imagined taking a trip to the French countryside as a graduation gift to myself. But I was way too broke to travel post graduation. As a consolation prize, I can now regularly visit Magnol French Baking. I’ve been a fan of this bakery since Otto Sanchez, a native of El Salvador who has lived in Houston since 1992, opened it in an ochre-brown brick strip center at 1500 North Post Oak. This welcoming bakery offers some of the most unique breads and pastries I’ve had in Houston. From the hardy yet internally soft baguettes to the twice-baked chocolate almond croissant, this place is a treat. Each bread has a unique tasting crust, each interior a different flavor and texture. My favorites are the baguette, rolls, Campagne loaf and the brioche hamburger buns. But I’ve enjoyed all the bread I’ve purchased there, and the staff is knowledgeable and will help guide you to the perfect choice for your needs and preferences. They even sell French butter you can spread across the sliced bread. But my deepest indulgence here isn’t the bread. I stock up on the opera cake — a decadent, layered almond sponge cake laminated with a rich chocolate ganache and soaked in a flavorful coffee syrup. I’ll buy four pieces to last me through the week. I beg you: grab some bread, butter and dessert and have yourself a bakery diet for a day. Oh, and good news, they are opening a second location at 1115 East 11th Street in the Heights.
Sinfull Bakery
I first found Sinfull Bakery’s goods while cruising the aisles at Central Market. I rounded a corner and the biggest, most enticing iced cinnamon roll was beaming at me, and I beamed back. I looked at the label and thought how true: Sinfull Bakery. I mean, this thing had a crown of icing — and folks, icing is half of the equation for certain baked goods. It’s the best cinnamon roll in Houston. Come fight me, thumb-wrestling style over coffee. I will convert you to Sinfull Bakery’s vegan — yes, I said vegan — cinnamon roll.
The owner and artist behind this vegan bakery is the talented Dylan Carnes, whose dream of opening a vegan bakery budded while on a hike. Carnes’ treats can now be found at mom-and-pop coffee shops and businesses all around the Houston area, Central Market, H-E-B, Whole Foods, and at the brick-and-mortar location at 1714 Webster Street, which is Houston’s first vegan bakery.
When you go to the white, square brick-and-mortar (note, I said when, not if), parking can be a bit tight, but when you walk in, it’s cloud nine. You’re greeted by the warming smell of oats, baking spices and molasses. And hot damn, every vegan baked good you could ever want or share with your vegan friends is spread out before you. Whether you get some pretzel buns, a sustaining Everything Bar, or some other sweet treat you will ask yourself in shock, acceptance and joy: Is this really VEGAN?! Houston, get there. And anyone that says vegan baked goods aren’t as good, suggest they check out Sinfull Bakery. There’s so much I wanted to say about these three Houston hotspots, but I am limited to what can be printed in the pages of this magazine. Thanks to the folks behind these Houston dreams. And keep on doing that magic Jerry and Angela, Otto and Dylan! Now I’m going to go look lovingly at my loaf of brioche before I toast a slice and scarf it down eloquently.
To learn more about these bakeries visit angelas-oven.com, magnolfrenchbaking.com and sinfullbakery.com.
Colin James Sturdevant is a poet and writer based in Houston. He is the founder and managing editor of table//FEAST Literary Magazine. He enjoys trying craft cocktails around town, foolishness and at-home cookery.
WORDS BY COLIN JAMES STURDEVANT | PHOTOS BY DAVID LEFTWICH
Photo by Angela's Oven
Sinfull Bakery photo by David Leftwich
Magnol Bakery photo by David Leftwich
Local Stars
MICHELIN RELEASING GUIDE TO TOP TEXAS RESTAURANTS
This fall, all eyes will be on Texas restaurants as the Michelin Guide — a prestigious international restaurant rating program run by the French tire manufacturer — makes its long-anticipated debut in the Lone Star State. The Michelin Guide to Texas, which is set to release before the end of 2024, may spotlight top-tier restaurants from five Texas cities: Austin, San Antonio, Houston, Dallas and Fort Worth.
According to a press release from Michelin, anonymous inspectors are already dining in secret at Texas restaurants, searching for the next recipients of the guide’s coveted stars. It’s anyone’s guess what their official selections may be, but statements from Michelin representatives suggest an affinity for unique-to-Texas cuisines like barbeque and Tex-Mex.
“The Texas culinary scene has proven to be an exhilarating one, with multicultural influences, homegrown ingredients and talent that is rich in ambition,” says Gwendal Poullennec, international director of the Michelin Guide. “Foodies and travel enthusiasts alike will find something to enjoy, with such a broad dining scene spanning farm-to-table dishes, fusion cuisine, upscale dining and the famous Texasstyle barbecue. Texas is a perfect fit for the Michelin Guide, based on the experiences of our anonymous inspectors.”
These inspectors, who visit each restaurant several times a year, will base their ratings on Michelin’s five universal criteria, including
quality of ingredients, the harmony of flavors, the mastery of cooking techniques, the voice and personality of the chef as reflected in the food and consistency between each visit and throughout the menu. These standards date back to the company’s first guide, which was released at the turn of the 20th century as a way to promote worthy travel destinations for French motorists. However, as the guides have become increasingly international, it’s proven to be as beneficial to travelers as it is to the featured destinations.
“The introduction of the guide will be a tremendous asset for Texas, promoting our rich and diverse food culture and elevating the restaurant scene to an international stage,” says Tim Fennell, director Travel Texas, a statewide tourism bureau, which will collaborate with Michelin to produce and promote the forthcoming guide.
Michelin typically adds new regional guides by forming connections with local tourism boards, which often help pay to promote the guides and for the inspectors. For example, Houston First, an economic development organization that promotes the city’s arts, entertainment, and convention opportunities, is paying $90,000 per year for three years to host the Michelin Guide, according to Eater Houston. The guide is intrinsically linked to the tourism industry, offering an opportunity for Texas cities to share their culinary identities with international audiences.
AVA MOTES is an Austin native who follows the city's expanding food scene with an eye for the people and stories behind the menus. She loves trying new restaurants, exploring farmers markets, and relaxing in cafes with a good book in hand.
