edible Baja Arizona - January/February 2015

edible

January/February 2015 • Issue No. 10 • GRATIS

edible BAJA ARIZONA

BAJA A RIZONA

Celebrating the foodways of Tucson and the borderlands.

A GASTRONOMY OF PLACE No. 10 January/February 2015

A Gastronomy of Place: 4,000 Years of Food Heritage Iskashitaa Gleans Tucson • Bisbee's Café Roka • Organics for All

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Contents January - February 2015 6

COYOTE TALKING

8 VOICES We asked students at the University of Arizona: What do you want to see changed about food on campus?

9 GLEANINGS 18

THE HUNGRIEST FOODIE

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THE PLATE

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KIDS’ MENU Haile’s Healthy Swaps.

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EDIBLE HOMESTEAD

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FARM REPORT

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IN THE BUSINESS Rebecca and Scott Safford’s Tap & Bottle is the place where everybody knows your name—or at least your favorite beer.

54 ARTISAN Restoring the classic appliances that once populated our kitchens.

62 POLICY School lunches get a much-needed makeover.

68 On the cover and above: Photo and arrangement by Bill and Athena Steen. Seeds courtesy of Native Seeds/SEARCH. From left to right: Tarahumara Bordal Runner Bean, Tarahumara “Sitakame” Bean, Calico Lima Bean, Chapalote Popcorn, Tarahumara Star Bean, Peñasco Cheese Squash, San Carlos Apache Wild Devil’s Claw, Chiltepin, Tohono O’odham “U’us Mu:n” Cowpea, Hopi Yellow “Sikya Hatiko” Lima, Tarahumara “Sitakame” Bean, Tarahumara Maiz Azul Flour Corn, Tarahumara Bordal Runner Bean, Mountain Pima Burro y Caballito, Bisbee Black Cowpea, Hopi Red “Pala Hatiko” Lima Bean, Guarijio Dipper Gourd, Guarijio Red Sweet Corn, Tarahumara “Sitakame” Bean, Hopi Black Dye Sunflower, Chiltepin, Hopi Purple String Bean

Features 96

A GASTRONOMY OF PLACE Reimagining Baja Arizona’s food future by peering into its past.

130

GLEANING TUCSON Through Iskashitaa Refugee Network, refugees from across the world not only recapture food that would otherwise go to waste, they also connect to their new community.

FOOD TRUCK The Ritz-Carlton Dove Mountain’s Roadrunner food truck offers resort food at food-truck prices.

76 PROCESS At Patagonia Orchards, Phil Ostrom and Sherry Luna are going beyond just distributing organic produce.

86 TABLE Café Roka turns 22 years old this month.

108

RECIPE The Ark of Taste is a celebration and living catalog of regionally distinctive foods facing extinction.

114

MEET YOUR FARMER Going behind the scenes of an organic Wholesum Harvest tomato reveals a finely crafted feat of science.

124

TABLE Eating organic before organic was cool, Steve and Renee Kreager have been putting pure food on Tucson tables since 2005.

148

BUZZ Plaza Liquors has figured out how to outsmart big-box retailers.

162

FORK IN THE ROAD Exploring Chihuahua’s little-known distilled spirit, sotol.

170

INK

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SOURCE GUIDE

186

LAST BITE

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COYOTE TALKING

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who live in Tucson spend an inordinate amount of time on what I call “the grid,” the maze of streets that we traverse on a daily basis. Do you ever find yourself waiting at yet another intersection and stopping to think, “You know, it’s amazing that I live in a sprawling desert city that has a 4,000-year history of agricultural cultivation and a deep culinary heritage, a city once an oasis self-sufficient in food?”

Well, you just might after reading Megan Kimble’s story “A Gastronomy of Place,” where she traces the long history of Tucson’s food heritage, from the ancient Hohokam farmers who tilled fields along the Santa Cruz River for thousands of years, to the arrival of the Europeans including the Jesuit missionary Eusebio Kino in 1692, to the contributions of Chinese immigrants in the late 1880s, to the revival of traditional indigenous crops by Tohono O’odham farmers in the 1970s, to the creation of the three-day celebration of Tucson’s glorious multicultural strands in the annual festival Tucson Meet Yourself. But in the end, you might want to ponder the important lessons we can draw from our agricultural and cultural past as we attempt to create a sustainable food system in an age of climate and resource uncertainty.

Tucson’s nonprofit organization Iskashitaa—the word means “working cooperatively together” in Somali—works with more than 30 local groups of immigrants from as many ethnic backgrounds to connect them with familiar foods from their homelands.

They do this through an ingenious program of “gleaning,” harvesting fruits and vegetables from all over the city that would otherwise go to waste.

In separate stories, we introduce you to Patagonia Orchards and Wholesum Harvest, innovative companies that are working to make organic produce widely available at a reasonable cost. At produce distributor Patagonia Orchards, the owners and the farmers they work with see the fields and orchards they till as part of the land and waters around them. Wholesum Harvest is using cutting-edge greenhouse technologies to produce organic tomatoes that are shipped all over the United States. As Laurel Bellante notes in her story: “A food-production process creates a ripple effect in the human, environmental, and political economic context connected to how we eat.” Two fascinating food system players in Baja Arizona.

Bisbee’s Café Roka is almost an anomaly. For 22 years, Rod Kass and Sally Holcomb have managed to maintain a restaurant on the historic mining town’s main street that is dependably excellent, satisfying, and overwhelmingly popular with locals and tourists alike. And in the process, they’ve created an extended family of longtime employees and have contributed immeasurably to the small community. A longtime Roka waitress, Gretchen Baer, aka Paintress Gretchen, is one of Bisbee’s most beloved artists and contributed fantastic oil paintings to illustrate the story. Thanks, Gretchen!

In a story about a little local business that could, Mark Thomson’s Plaza Liquors and Fine Wines has figured out a way to outsmart big-box retailers and keep customers coming back for more than 30 years. What’s his secret?

And at Renee’s Organic Oven, for nearly a decade Steve and Renee Kreager, the co-owners, have built a business based on educating their customers about the ecosystem of Baja Arizona farmers, ranchers, beekeepers, brewers, wine-makers, cheese- and ice cream-makers, coffee roasters, tea importers, and other organic merchants, all of whom are supported by their patronage.

There’s much, much more to enjoy and discover in this 10th issue.

And please check out our house ad on Page 174 inviting you to participate in our first Reader Survey. We’d love to know more about our readers, and we’re offering a slew of incredible prizes to entice you to spend a few minutes online answering some questions. Thanks!

Happy New Year! We’ll see you around the table. ¡Salud!

H AV E YO U E AT E N A N H E I R L O O M L AT E LY ?

OST OF US

—Douglas Biggers, editor and publisher

edible BAJA ARIZONA

EDITOR AND PUBLISHER

Douglas Biggers

ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER

Jared R. McKinley

MANAGING EDITOR

Megan Kimble

ART DIRECTOR

Steve McMackin

SENIOR CONTRIBUTING EDITOR

Gary Paul Nabhan DESIGNER

Lyric Peate

COPY EDITOR

Ford Burkhart

PROOFREADER

Charity Whiting

ACCOUNT MANAGER

Katy Gierlach

ADVERTISING CONSULTANTS

Dhyana Wasson, Carl Falwell, Kenny Stewart INTERN

Nicole Thill CONTRIBUTORS

Vanessa Barchfield, Laurel Bellante, Renée Downing, Bryan Eichhorst, Merrill Eisenberg, Molly Kincaid, Shelley Littin, Bobby Long, Lourdes Medrano, Rachel Mindell, Jennifer Nalewicki, Molly Patrick, Steve Renzi, Bill Steen, Eric Swedlund, Haile Thomas, Eric Van Meter, Alfredo Véa, Jr. PHOTOGRAPHERS & ARTISTS

Jackie Alpers, Gretchen Baer, Dominic AZ Bonuccelli, Stephen Eginoire, Liora K, Danny Martin, Addie Mannan, Steven Meckler, Molly Patrick, Bridget Shanahan, Jeff Smith, Bill Steen DISTRIBUTION

Carson Davenport, Royce Davenport, Mel Meijas, Shiloh Thread-Waist Walkosak, Steve & Anne Bell Anderson WE’D LOVE TO HEAR FROM YOU. 307 S. Convent Ave., Barrio Viejo Tucson, Arizona 85701 520.373.5196 info@edibleBajaArizona.com EdibleBajaArizona.com

Volume 2, Issue 4. Edible Baja Arizona (ISSN 2374-345X) is published six times annually by Coyote Talking, LLC. Subscriptions are available for $36 annually by phone or at EdibleBajaArizona.com.

Copyright © 2014. All rights reserved.

No part of this publication may be used without the express written permission of the Publisher. Member of the Association of Edible Publishers (AEP).

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VOICES

We asked students at the University of Arizona: What do you want to see changed about food on campus?

Photography by Dominic AZ Bonuccelli

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I work as part of a Smart Moves initiative on campus.

A dietician analyzes recipes, and if it fits our nutritional criteria, the food gets our symbol next to it—I wish more people knew about it.

Also, it’d be helpful if the prices were lower for these healthier options because they tend to be more expensive.

3

We have a garden on Highland. It’d be cool to expand the garden—give students the opportunity to pick their own food. We have so many spaces—we could plant edible fruit trees.

Kashja Iler

Senior, Environmental Science

4

I think the menus should show calorie counts. A lot of people need to eat more calories to gain weight or reduce calories to lose it, but they don’t know how to calculate that—so it’d be instead of guessing. And it’d highlight healthy options.

I’d like to see more attention to different diets. I’m a vegetarian, and a lot of the stuff offered on campus isn’t really available to me. Undergrads are exploring who they want to be, and a big part of that is deciding the foods they want to eat.

Jenna Haggerty

Madeline Ryder

Senior, Care, Health, & Society

Tiffany Doggett

Senior, Conservation Biology

Junior, Nutritional Science & Dietetics

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It’d be cool to see more local food on campus and offered on the meal plan. To see that the campus is supporting the local economy, to see students be more involved in stuff that’s happening here in Tucson. So much exciting stuff is happening and I feel like we’re kind of removed from that.

I’d like to see more sustainable, local things. A lot of our restaurants are chains. I’d like to see local options. I’d been hassling the Student Union about changing back to compostable takeout containers.

But of course, there are a lot of logistical constraints.

Ariana Manson

Junior, Philosophy, Spanish, & Portuguese

Sophomore, Biochemistry and Molecular & Cellular Biology

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The restaurants that have actual meals aren’t really open on the weekends. I really want grilled chicken, but I haven’t found a place that has it regularly.

Jaden Johnson Freshman, Physics

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Nicholas Havey

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We have a lot of ingenuity happening here—with LEAF, for example [Linking Edible Arizona Forests]. Everyone knows that there are meal plans. But not everyone knows that we harvested olives. That students harvest mesquite. There’s so much more we could do.

Emily Marderness

Emily Flink

Freshman, Physiology

Freshman, Undeclared

10 We need food that is not only healthy for the people consuming it, but also for the people growing it. Sustainable production of food needs to be taken into consideration when the Student Union sets up purchasing contracts. The U of A needs to sell food that’s priced at rates comparable for other grocery stores so that students with not as much money have access to healthy, sustainable options.

Katie Marascio

8

The first thing is having healthier options open later.

Especially on the weekends, they aren’t open—so you’re limited to fast food or chicken tenders. Park Student Union has a salad bar, but they close pretty early.

Senior, Environmental Science, Land, and Water

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I’d like to have more raw produce to cook with. It’s hard to find. Some students find the time to cook, and want to do it. I’d prefer to make my own stuff out of simple ingredients than eat something in a package.

Taylor Sanders Junior, Agronomy

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gleanings

Nicole Devito and Andrew Carhuff show off a freshly harvested bounty of locally grown mushrooms.

Mushroom Season in the Old Pueblo In Baja Arizona, winter is mushroom season.

By Shelley Littin | Photography by Steve McMackin

A

s w inter descends ,

cool winds drifting down canyons relieve the heat, ripple through cottonwood leaves, and stir flowing water. On the edge of Aravaipa Creek, Andrew Carhuff and his partner Nicole Devito—the owners of Old Pueblo Mushroom Growers—cultivate their crop.

From October to March, Arizona temperatures are nearly perfect for growing mushrooms.

“We have a very long season compared to other places in the country where mushrooms have to be heated in wintertime,” Carhuff said.

Carhuff has grown mushrooms as a hobby for years, “wherever I had space,” he said. In May, Carhuff and Devito expanded their hobby to a five-acre farm near Aravaipa Canyon.

“Our goal is to turn our mushroom operation into a diversified farm with mushrooms as one of the main crops, and use the compost from mushroom production to grow other crops,” Carhuff said. “We have really nice land, water, and good soil.”

The pair grow mainly oyster mushrooms, selected because of their tolerance for a wide range of temperatures.

Mushrooms can be grown from spores shed by the adult fungus or from tissue clones. Carhuff and Devito use both methods, nurturing their spongy crops in a nutrient-rich mixture of grain and straw packed inside buckets or logs.

Many mushrooms grow well on logs; Carhuff noted that he and Devito plan to experiment with growing shitake mushrooms on the cottonwood logs that adorn their farm.

“My goal is to have our mushrooms be as close to wild

mushrooms as possible in terms of flavor and texture,” he said.

“A lot of times the mushrooms you see in the supermarkets are watered-down versions of what you’d find in the wild.”

For their watery consistency, mushrooms pack a sizeable amount of nutrition. A source of protein and selenium, mushrooms may help to lower cholesterol. They are also high in vitamin D. “When sunlight hits mushrooms they produce vitamin D the same as humans do,” Carhuff explained. “A lot of people think mushrooms grow in the dark, but the best conditions are filtered light.”

Carhuff journeys into Tucson to showcase his harvest on Sundays at the Heirloom Farmers’ Market at Rillito Park, and on Thursdays at the Santa Cruz River Farmers’ Market.

Carhuff, who has been a chef all his adult life, tells his customers that fresh mushrooms are best eaten during the first three or four days. He recommends grilling and marinating the larger oyster mushrooms, using them as a substitute for meat, or just sautéing them in fresh butter.

“I’m interested in all things local, seasonal,” he said. “The simpler, the better.”

Carnuff and Devito are looking for volunteers to help cultivate and harvest their crops on Mondays and Wednesdays, offering overnight accommodation at their farm for any helpers.

Email Carhuff at opmushroom@gmail.com, or find him at the farmers’ market.

Old Pueblo Mushroom Growers. 520.577.6136.

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photo courtesy of LGH

g

How to Make a Meal on the Moon Some plants will grow just about anywhere.

By Shelley Littin

e

h er nAndeZ , a University of Arizona junior majoring in plant sciences and minoring in computer science, is studying how humans might one day grow plants on the moon.

The Prototype Lunar Greenhouse (LGH) program appealed to Hernandez immediately when she applied for a NASA Space Grant Undergraduate Research Internship with Gene Giacomelli, an engineer in the UA’s Department of Agriculture and Biosystems Engineering, College of Agriculture and Life Sciences. The LGH is a life-size model created and built by Phil Sadler of the Tempe-based Sadler Machine Co. Funded by the AZ-NASA Ralph Steckler Space Grant Colonization Research and Technology Development program and housed at the UA Controlled Environment Agriculture Center, the LGH has demonstrated ways of using plants to revitalize air, recycle water and waste, and provide a continuous source of vegetables for the inhabitants of potential future space colonization efforts.

At the LGH, Hernandez has found her passion.

Along with fellow undergraduate Connor Osgood, Hernandez monitors seedlings, maintains the hydroponic systems used to grow the plants, and rotates new seedlings to ensure a continuous crop.

“I also do data collection on various sensors making sure the environment is appropriate for plant growth,” she said. “We’re trying to collect as much data as we can out of this system so that we can determine any relationships between the environment and plant growth.”

A plethora of sensors, including live web cameras recordr icA

ing 24/7, monitor environmental conditions inside the sealed chambers.

All kinds of plants are fit for the moon, Hernandez said, as long as they can be grown using hydroponics. “We were given a list of plants by NASA. We’ve grown basil, sweet potato, strawberry, cowpeas, and a whole bunch of lettuce. Everything is edible, but we actually don’t eat anything because we’re doing analyses of plant biomass.”

This winter, Hernandez is helping to set up the LGH’s new Outreach and Teaching Module housed at the UA’s Biosphere 2.

“It will provide a place where people can learn about how plants can potentially be used for food in future space missions,” she said. “We might even harvest and allow people to eat the crops from that module.”

Hernandez’s experience at the LGH has provided focus for her own future. “If I were able to choose my future, I would hope that I would be able to continue doing research at the Lunar Greenhouse,” she said. “There are a lot of unanswered questions, areas where we could learn new things about how plants grow using hydroponics. A greenhouse is a really complicated system, and solving problems is exciting.”

“And of course, we’re hopefully directly contributing to helping people go to space,” she added.

The LGH is open to the public, although visitors must be accompanied by a tour guide—usually Hernandez.

Call 520.626.9566 to schedule tours of the LGH, or visit B2Science.org. To view the live webcam of LGH chambers, visit ag.arizona.edu/lunargreenhouse.

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The National Parks Store

A window into the people, places, and histories of this region.

Fine Handmade Crafts American Indian Arts Southwestern Food & Apparel Children’s Items Books on National Parks & the West Free Public Events Tours, Workshops, Concerts & More

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photo courtesy of Proper

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Monday Night Showtime Proper hosts new Market Monday menus.

By Shelley Littin

W

hat if you only bought your food locally, farmfresh, and constrained your cooking to whatever crops were in season? Would you become bored by the climatic limitations on the menu? Or could you find something new, something exciting to make for dinner every week?

Kris Vrolyk, executive chef at Proper Restaurant, asked exactly this question. Out of his query came the idea to prepare a menu using only ingredients from local farmers’ markets.

“My goal is really to showcase the farmers, and let people know that this is your option,” Vrolyk said. “If you choose to shop this way, you’re going to be more impactful on the region, and you’re really going to have a better sense of community.

“People need to know the difference between what they can find in the supermarket and what’s coming from the ground beneath their feet,” he said.

On the first Monday of every month, Proper hosts Market Mondays alongside its regular menu. On a reservation-only basis, Vrolyk serves a diverse assembly of guests gathered around a common table a three-course meal prepared fresh from whatever he could scrounge up at the farmers’ market the day before.

“Sunday morning I’m at the market 8 to 11 o’clock trying to figure out what I’m going to do,” Vrolyk said.

The menu is always a surprise, he said. “I don’t want returning guests to have the same experience every time. I want them to come here and ask, ‘What is going to happen? What’s going to come out of the kitchen?’”

Vrolyk admitted the endeavor can be intimidating. “It’s really difficult to come up with a new, interesting menu based on

ingredients that you found at the market. Sunday you buy stuff and Monday night, it’s showtime.”

Along with long-time friend Justin Lightsey, Vrolyk preps his creations day-of for Monday night guests. “A lot of it is off-the-cuff cooking,” he admitted. “It makes for a great challenge.”

The Kentucky-born chef has worked in downtown restaurants from his home state to Florida, Wyoming, California, and finally Baja Arizona.

From state to state, he has noted how farmers’ markets have taken off in recent years, with more new markets springing up all over the country. “This isn’t hype, this is not a trend,” Vrolyk said. “This is something that children are involved in now.”

Initially slow to take off, ever more of the Tucson community is now attending Market Mondays. November’s event saw Gabby Giffords and Mark Kelly seated at Proper’s table for the local-themed, seasonal feast.

“I’m cooking for that adventurous person who wants to be updated with what’s happening in the region, what’s growing, and where they can get it,” Vrolyk added, noting that he is happy to discuss recipes and ingredients with guests who are curious about the content and preparation of their meal.

“I don’t think that cooking should be a mystery or a secret,” he said. “It’s too cool to keep to yourself.” ✜ Proper Restaurant. 300 E. Congress St. 520.396.3357.

ProperTucson.com.

Shelley Littin is a science journalist and anthropologist. She spends her free time running unreasonable distances in beautiful places.

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I

In the ’Hood

tr AVeL all over Baja Arizona. And I eat. But just a few blocks from the Edible Baja Arizona office in Barrio Viejo, Tucson, at the Five Points intersection, a pair of businesses are making a lasting impression on our dining culture.

5 Points Market & Restaurant serves up delicious food and works hard to source from local farms. They also have a handy market for people living in the neighborhood. I’d been wanting to hit up their weekly Taco Tuesday for awhile—I can never get enough tacos. Finally, one sunny Tuesday afternoon, my girlfriend and I found ourselves there: Katy got the calabacitas tacos and I got the blackened bird (chicken) tacos. Served with local greens, beans, rice, and guacamole, this is a perfect lunch. The Taco Tuesday menu changes from week to week, depending on what produce is available. 5 Points is already a staple for those in the area; call it “The Time Market of Barrio Viejo and Armory Park.” 756 S. Stone Ave. 520.623.3888. 5PointsTucson.com.

Next door to 5 Points Market, you might catch wafts of a more exotic sort—the Ethiopian piquancy of Café Desta.

Ethiopian cuisine has the alluring, pungent spiciness of Indian food, but is heartier. This is not a meal you eat alone. Food is ordered and consumed communally. Each item ordered is piled onto a communal plate, on top of a sourdough-fermented, spongy flatbread called injera, which is usually about the size of a large pizza. The injera bread is made from a grain called teff, which is an annual lovegrass (Eragrostis tef) native to Ethiopia. Use extra injera to swipe up bites—no utensils are used.

This is a great meal for a couple or large group. There are many vegan options available, too. 758 S. Stone Ave. 520.370.7000.

CafeDesta.com.

Working with Edible Baja Arizona, I spend a lot of time at

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farmers’ markets. If you haven’t yet been to the Heirloom Farmers’ Market at Rillito Park on Sunday, you should check out their new pavilion. This market is becoming more than just a place to get groceries—it’s a pleasant way to spend a Sunday. Music, entertainment, food trucks, chef demos, and more totally alter the shopping experience. And all this while supporting local, small businesses and getting quality ingredients made or grown with care. 4502 N. First Ave. HeirloomFM.com.

Recently while at the farmers’ market, I visited one of my favorite food trucks in Baja Arizona. Twisted Tandoor uses incredibly fresh ingredients. The flavor of their dishes, and accompanying chutneys and sauces, brings eating into a higher, more artistic plane.

Most of us grew up eating grilled cheese sandwiches. But Twisted Tandoor takes this staple kids’ meal and makes it adult and gourmet. They start with the bread: grilled Texas toast, making sure to scorch the cuts, so every bite has the wonderful tongue feel a grilled cheese should have. Piled inside is cheese, tandoori chicken, cilantro, caramelized onions, tomato, and serrano chili. Finally, they flavor the sandwich with garam masala and chaat masala and serve it up with a house-made chutney (mint, ginger, garlic, and cilantro) and masala ketchup. Absolute heaven. Facebook.com/TheTwistedTandoor

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On the corner of 4th ave. & 9th st.

520.222.9889 • www.cafecoronet.com

All Things Sacred

GO tO B isBee at least once a month. Two great eateries have reopened, making life more delicious in this old mining town. Poco, which closed back in August of 2013, has reopened and started once again serving their vegetarian/ vegan fare. Honestly, as a nonvegetarian and meat-enthusiast, I forgot that I was eating vegetarian recently when I had their blackened Brussels sprouts burrito (chimichanga style). This was after a long bike ride—so I was hungry. And after I finished the burrito, I was sufficiently stuffed.

I’m usually skeptical about hybridizing something as sacred as the chimichanga. This chimichanga makes the case for experimentation—the result shows that it can sometimes be worth it to mess with sacred objects. 15 Main St. Facebook.com/PocoBzb.

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Simple. Classic. Italian.

Fresh, House Made Pasta Every Day The Finest Happy Hour in Tucson

Speaking of sacred things: chocolate. You might not care about chocolate. But those of you who worship this substance will share the enthusiasm I have for the reopening of Chocoláte. They usually close in summer, but were closed for a bit longer this year, evoking the consternation of those of us who rely on good, local chocolatiers. On the same cold day I stuffed myself at Poco, it started to rain. We pulled up to the tiny storefront, just a bit farther up Tombstone Canyon Road, and scrambled across the street; for a moment, all I could do was let my eyes ramble from one truffle to the next. Chiltepin truffles, pepper truffles, and my favorite, añejo tequila truffles, topped with rock salt and lime. I washed them down with a cup of fresh, rich hot chocolate. A sacrament for any epicurean. 134 Tombstone Canyon.

SpiritedChocolate.com.

Of all things sacred, the chimichanga has had much discussion within these pages. It is the honest result of borderland exchange. Some say the chimichanga is just a Mexican egg roll, implying that Chinese immigrants in our region contributed to the invention of this perfect food.

In Tubac, Soto’s PK Outpost has a wonderful chimichanga, rolled to a proportion similar to an eggroll. I should mention that it would be a sacrilege to consume this chimi without a margarita, or three. 14 Camino Otero.

Facebook.com/SotosPKOutpost

The Most Important Meal of the Day

B

i tr AVeL a lot for work, I stay at a lot of hotels, motels, B&Bs, and ranches. The term “continental breakfast,” to any well-travelled person, usually implies something underwhelming and unsavory: breakfast cereal, granola, bread (croissant if you are lucky), yogurt, and fruit washed down with coffee and orange juice.

Triangle T Guest Ranch has forever ruined me for continental breakfast. ecAUse

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After a wine-tasting event in the area, I booked an overnight stay. I did not anticipate much when I was made aware that “continental breakfast” would be made available after 9 a.m.

Arriving at the communal tables in the dining hall, I poured my coffee, grabbed some watermelon, and took a seat. Next thing I know, a hot dish was set in front of me, full of eggs Benedict on an English muffin and ham with a side of bacon and home fries. Needless to say, this is the perfect way to start a day of horseback riding or exploring—the landscape of the Dragoon Mountains is amazing, and just a short walk away is the Amerind Museum and the Fulton-Hayden Memorial Art Gallery. Only an hour away from Tucson, the Triangle T Guest Ranch is a very easy getaway and comes highly recommended. 4190 Dragoon Road. 520.586.7533.

AzRetreatCenter.com.

I spend a lot of time and energy sharing my enthusiasm for the amazing eateries of our region. But I want to emphasize that I do not do this at the cost of making wonderful food at home. Armed with a great array of cookbooks and the Internet, one of my favorite ventures is taking the various ingredients I have gathered from farmers’ markets, CSAs, grocers, and food purveyors and making food in my own kitchen. I also cull ingredients from my own garden. One of my favorite breakfasts is loosely poached eggs (from my chickens), set atop blanched or lightly sautéed greens, seasonable vegetables, goat cheese, and slices of artisanal sourdough bread.

This breakfast fuels my days wandering about, hunting for the gastronomical offerings of these wonderful borderlands.

Along with a hearty breakfast, my mornings are best spent waking up with loved ones, in the kitchen with the smell of food and brewing coffee. ✜ Jared McKinley is the associate publisher of Edible Baja Arizona Arizona.

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A world of flavor Ultra-Premium, First Cold

Pressed, Extra Virgin Olive Oils from around the world and the finest Traditional Aged Balsamic Vinegars from Modena,Italy.

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1

2

The Plate Plate the

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That one thing they should never take off the menu.

1234 Photography by Jackie Alpers

Nox Roasted Street Corn

Corn off the cob, queso fresco, chipotle aioli, smoked chile oil, and lime, mixed together and served with crispy tortilla chips; it’s called street corn, but in a place as lovely as Nox, why not stay for awhile? $9.

6370 N. Campbell Ave.

The Parish Tucson Chile Relleno

“Southern fusion gastropub” may not make much sense to you until you try this relleno, stuffed with cheese, pico de gallo, bacon, cilantro, and held together (flavor-wise, of course) with a tasty balsamic reduction. $8.

6453 N. Oracle Road

Zona78 Antipasti

There’s no better cure for your foodie blues than charcuterie cured in-house. Top it off with local cheese and homemade pickles and you’re set for the season. $14.

7301 E. Tanque Verde Road

Ginza Sushi Ceviche Sushi Roll

The best of both worlds— south of the border ceviche, with an Eastern flare. Filled with crab, cucumber, masago, and topped with white tuna, green and sweet onions, ponzu sauce, and spicy sauce, it’s a roll that comes with a kick. $9.95.

5425 N. Kolb Road

edible

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Feb 28 Rodeo Days Arts Festival

Mar 7 J Gilbert Dance Event

Mar 14, 15 American Legion Spring Craft Fair

Mar 21, 22 Plaza Palomino Fine Art Show

Ongoing: Saturday Mercado: Tucson’s Original Saturday Farmers’ Market 10AM - 2PM

Check our website for details and other special happenings!

www.plazapalomino.com See the new Plaza Palomino video!

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Specialty and Boutique Shopping and Dining 2900–2990 N Swan Road at Fort Lowell

. . . On Sale

THE NEWEST OF THE J. GILBERT STORES When we have one or two items left in stock on a particular product we send that merchandise to our new Plaza Palomino store and put it on sale.

Our customers get great buys on top quality products.

If you’re lucky and we have your size. . . you get a great deal!

You have to see it to believe it!

Great Merchandise, from all the best manufactures.

ALL THE BEST AND ALL ON SALE EVERY DAY…

UP TO 75% OFF! YOU HAVE TO SEE IT TO BELIEVE IT.

2930 N. Swan Rd. • 520 327-1291 • Swan at Fort Lowell jgilbertfootwear.com

Come stroll the promenade and also visit Plaza Palomino's additional merchants including Abstrax Hair & Day Salon, Dark Star Leather, Jackson Tavern, La Contessa Boutique, La Placita Café, Premiere Piano, and T & R Design Fine Jewelry.

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a tradition of inspiring excellence

f OR OVER 30 YEARS, The Gregory School has provided an unparalleled One of Arizona Highways’ 50 best places to eat in Arizona Happy Hour 4p-6p daily

educational experience that goes beyond strong academics. The school creates a supportive community where pursuing individual passion is encouraged and a love for learning is fostered. Our students graduate with the confidence to succeed in college and beyond.

Please Call for a tour. (520) 327-6395

Weekday Breakfast coming soon We will also feature prepared Healthy Lunches to Go! Lunch & Dinner - Dine-in & Take-out Catering Available! Reservations Welcome.

www.reneesorganicoven.com 520-886-0484

7065 E Tanque Verde

Formerly St. Gregory College Preparatory School 3231 N. Craycroft Road, Tucson, Arizona www.GregorySchool.org

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KIDS’ MENU

Haile’s Healthy Swaps

By Haile Thomas | Photography by Jackie Alpers

H

N ew Y ear , and welcome to Haile’s Healthy Swaps! Don’t worry, I’m still “mixing it up” in the kitchen and sharing my creations, but now readers get even more yummy recipes to try, as I’ve accepted the challenge to share healthy swaps for typically not-so-healthy meals. I present these recipes as yummy alternatives for anyone hoping to follow through on New Year resolutions to eat a bit healthier without sacrificing flavor.

My first swap is for breakfast. Cheesy scrambled eggs, meat-filled omelets, and pancakes are typical favorites, but they often come with cholesterol and saturated fat that we could all do without. I’ve come up with an equally delicious and flavorful Tofu and Brussels Sprouts Wrap. Tofu is naturally gluten-free and low in calories, contains no cholesterol, and is an excellent source of protein, iron, and calcium. Not only can tofu be nutritious, but it’s extremely versatile too. Season or marinate it in any of your favorite seasoning blends and the tofu will absorb the flavor. Give this recipe a try for a quick and nourishing way to break your fast. appy

Tofu and Brussels Sprout Wrap

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small jalapeño pepper, cut in thin strips red onion, sliced cups shredded Brussels sprouts cup cherry tomatoes, quartered garlic cloves, chopped cup silken tofu, diced small-to-medium potato, thinly sliced tablespoons extra virgin olive oil sprouted grain tortilla salt and pepper to taste tablespoon of your favorite spice blend (I like Trader Joe’s Everyday Seasoning) fire-roasted tomato salsa (I used a store bought one, but you can make your own.)

Chop, slice, and dice all vegetables and tofu. Thinly slice potato, season, and pan fry in 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil for 3-4 minutes, then add to platter. Season and stir-fry vegetables and tofu in remaining olive oil for about 3-5 minutes, until veggies are cooked through but still with a little crunch. Serve potatoes and tofu and veggie mix wrapped in the tortilla; add fire-roasted salsa on top. Enjoy!

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M

y second swap is for snack time! It’s been a few hours since breakfast and you want a quick pick-me-up. You could grab a bag of chips. The crunch and salt of potato chips is definitely enjoyable—but as for healthy, many brands are not! They can be high in fat and sodium, and filled with empty calories. So how about a better option? Make your own Oven Baked Sweet Potato Chips. This recipe is a yummy healthy swap, because not only do you control the salt, oil, and flavor, but also these are baked, not deep-fried. The saturated fat and trans fat in deep-fried foods increase your risk for high cholesterol and heart disease. Making your own chips is a whole lot better and delicious.

Oven Baked Sweet Potato Chips 2 large organic sweet potatoes 2 tablespoons olive oil salt, to taste

Preheat oven to 250 degrees. Rinse and dry sweet potatoes and thinly slice. If you have a mandolin, use it—if the chips are too thick and uneven, they won’t crisp all the way. Toss the potato slices in olive oil to lightly coat, and then sprinkle with sea salt. Spread coated slices on a baking sheet and bake for about 1-1 ½ hours, flipping chips halfway to ensure even cooking. Remove once crisp and golden brown. Let them rest for 10 minutes to crisp up before enjoying.

L

to get through the rest of the day before dinner.

Typical lunch favorites like burgers and sandwiches often come full of processed, high fat, and nutritionally empty ingredients. So I’ve created a vibrant, delicious, and nutritious Udon Noodle Salad to enjoy instead. This recipe is filled with fiber-filled veggies and spices to keep you fueled, full, and satisfied! ✜ unch is all about r efueling

Udon Noodle Salad

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Noodle Dressing:

package Japanese udon

1 whole lime, juiced noodles, cooked, rinsed, 10 tablespoons olive oil and cooled 10 tablespoons tamari head napa cabbage, 4-5 tablespoons sesame oil thinly sliced ⅔ cup brown sugar head purple cabbage,

6 tablespoons fresh thinly sliced ginger, chopped bag fresh baby spinach

4 cloves garlic, minced whole red bell pepper, 3-4 whole Serrano peppers, thinly sliced chopped whole yellow bell pepper, chopped cilantro thinly sliced carrots, shredded bag bean sprouts bunch chopped cilantro medium red onion, thinly sliced

Cook udon noodles according to package instructions. Chop, slice, and mix salad ingredients together. Whisk dressing ingredients together and use about half of the dressing to toss into the chilled noodles, and then pour the rest over the salad. Mix salad and noodles together with tongs and serve on a platter. Enjoy!

Haile Thomas is an eighth grader at The Gregory School, a motivational speaker, and a young chef featured on the Food Network’s Rachael vs. Guy: Kids Cook-Off. Haile is also the founder of the HAPPY Organization, which partners with the YWCA to offer kids’ cooking classes, fun physical activities, and nutrition education. Follow along at TheHappyOrg.org.

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Photography by Jade Beall | www. jadebeall.com

yogaoasis.com

stretch away

stress

Beth Daunis in Warrior 3

downtown | central | east

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[E DIBLE H OMESTEAD ]

kohlrabi (Brassica oleracea)

A Renaissance of Diversity

By Jared R. McKinley | Illustrations by Danny Martin

E

very issue , in these pages, my goal is to get you to plant varieties of vegetables and fruits that you don’t find in the grocery store. In the days before industrial agriculture simplified our choices to just a handful of varieties, information was passed between people about what apples made the best pies, which tomatoes made the best canned sauces, and what the heck does one do with salsify. This information was regional, depending on what was historically grown in each area. In some parts of the world, these traditions are still held. At street markets in Europe, generations of families still sell their farm products to the public—they’re so common that they aren’t called farmers’ markets; they are simply referred to as the local markets. Where we live, in the United States, this kind of connection has been overshadowed by our current food economy in which just a few varieties are grown on enormous scales to sell worldwide.

Over the past century, varieties of vegetables and fruits were chosen not necessarily for their taste or performance in particular dishes, but for their shelf life and appearance.

Basically, they were chosen for their economic performance.

You all know those perfect-looking tomatoes or apples that taste awful (but yet somehow are still sold daily in the supermarket). We have been trained to purchase food based on superficial qualities that don’t reflect the nutrition, flavor, or useful qualities of any particular variety. And it is convenient, having fewer options. You don’t have to work very hard to

figure out what to do with Tahitian squash or Italian puntarelle. You can slice up those tasteless, medium-sized whatever tomatoes and put them on a salad and call it dinner.

That was the case—until recently. Somehow, diversity has become popular again. I have been somewhat impressed with offerings made available even in corporate chains like Trader Joe’s or Whole Foods. Black garlic, mache, and amaranth flour are a few things that are now easily found for purchase.

But even the diversity appearing in the grocery store pales in comparison to what a gardener can grow. A stunning array of plants can be grown in the Baja Arizona backyard and all you have to do is figure out what the heck to do with a plant once you grow it.

This has been my experience growing food. I admit, I am a botanist and I grow things just because they are weird or fun.

Once I have grown them, I am often faced with the challenge of figuring out how not to waste my efforts and turn them into an edible dish. This educates me about more than just food, or botany. I learn about culture.

We’re living in a time when we have the entire world of genetic diversity available online and in the pages of a few incredible seed catalogs.

One stunning catalog available now is the 356-page Whole Seed Catalog put out by Baker Creek Heirloom Seed Company. They have taken it upon themselves not only to make amazing varieties available to the public (varieties found by

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romanesco (Brassica oleracea)

[E.H.] extensive research, lots of world travel, and sleuthy plant geekness), but also to document these varieties with gorgeous full color pictures. Who wouldn’t want to grow green fingerprint fava beans from the Andes or the pusa asita, a black carrot from India, once you see a photo of each? They are making rock stars of rustic, often ancient vegetables and fruits. It’s about time.

But we don’t have to look farther than our own backyard for such amazing plant geekness. For three decades, Native Seeds/SEARCH has been preserving both the genetic diversity of our region and also the culture behind it all, using the fanaticism of gardeners to help preserve our region’s bank of food options (and preserving arid-adapted crops for the world if global warming dries the planet out).

In Baja Arizona, we are certainly at the forefront of change, and it all starts in the garden. All you have to do is grow, research, or just experiment with something new.

That experimentation ends in the kitchen, of course. And it’s more work to have to plan out your dinner than to add water and heat to a boxed meal. You will have to spend more time thinking about your meals. Yes, I am asking you to choose inconvenience. Because you will certainly fail many times. You may perhaps plant something at the wrong part of the year and not give it enough time to develop. You might not always

use the crop for its best purpose and may waste a good vegetable on the wrong sort of dish. But if you care, you will learn what to do with all that bounty. You will become a better gardener. You will become a better cook. And your life will be enriched by the diversity that has never before been so available to any one group of people. We are privileged to live in a time when so much is being made available, and in a climate where so many things can be grown (if planted at the right time, in the right way). We are so lucky to find ourselves exhausted at the end of a Saturday, having harvested the bounty we painstakingly grew for a season, and processed it in our kitchen to enjoy with loved ones at the dinner table.

Plant Now For directions on planting and careful for particular crops, join us at Facebook.com/EdibleBajaArizona or visit us on our website at EdibleBajaArizona.com for our new series of gardening blog posts.

G REENS AND C OLE CROPS

Broccoli, broccoli rabe, cauliflower, kale, collards, arugula, cabbage, nasturtium, miner’s lettuce, water cress, lettuce, mustards, kohlrabi, minutina, Swiss chard, the many Italian chicories, like endive, radicchio, puntarelle, chicons, escarole, grumolo verde, Catalogna chicory, and Asian greens like chrysanthemum greens, bok choy, Chinese cabbage, mizuna, mibuna, napa cabbage, tatsoi, yu choy, komatsuna.

W INTER ANNUAL HERBS Parsley, dill, cilantro, fennel, chervil.

R OOT CROPS

Carrots, beets, turnips, rutabaga, radish, daikon radish, burdock, root chicory. You can also start potatoes and Jerusalem artichokes in warmer parts of our region.

ALLIUMS

From potted plants or onion sets: onions (bulb and bunching types), shallots, garlic, chives, Egyptian walking onion, leeks.

PERENNIALS

Asparagus, artichokes, herbs like mint, oregano, thyme, lavender, rosemary, sage, lemongrass, bay leaf.

FRUIT TREES

You can plant just about any fruit tree this time of year. Be careful with frost-tender citrus (or tropical fruit trees). Make sure you plant varieties that are appropriate for your area. Lists of fruit varieties are available at the University of Arizona cooperative extension office (Extension.Arizona.edu/Pima).

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[E.H.]

The Bacon of the Vegetable World

T

TO START FROM SEED

he culinary world’s newfound enthusiasm for

this hardy, cool-season vegetable is well-deserved.

Kale is relatively easy to grow, presents few hortilant seeds an inch apart and keep seedlings well-wacultural challenges, has a healthy nutritional profile, stores tered, thinning them out as they grow (save the seedwell in the refrigerator, comes in a wide variety of gorgeous lings you pull out for salads and garnishes). Give each options, and is absolutely delicious. My favorite is plant enough room to fully develop. still the nero di Toscana or Tuscan kale (also If you let them grow too close known as lacinato kale, dinosaur kale, or (or fail to thin seedlings out palm tree kale). But I don’t want to sufficiently) individual undervalue other varieties, like the plants may not grow to lovely oak leaf shape of Russian mature, optimal size. red kale, or the mouth-pleasing Eventually most texture of the curly kales. kale varieties get With most varieties, colors fairly large. With range from light to dark some types, you greens, but there are some can harvest the varieties that are partly or lower leaves entirely red or purple to and they will almost bluish. Texture can continue to be extremely serrated and produce more “curly,” bumpy, or smooth leaves growing and round. A few varieties up though the grow like palm trees, espemeristem (growcially the walking stick variety ing point). Kale that grows six to 10 feet tall and is best fed steadily produces a stem that can literally with an organic be dried and laminated to make fertilizer like fish emulwalking sticks! sion or kelp meal. Mulch the base of plants after they Most kale varieties are easy to find, kale (Brassica oleracea) reach a few inches high with straw but varieties like the walking stick kale can be trickier. Hirt’s Gardens (Hirts.com) has them, or compost to conserve water. Plants as well as a variety called Nagoya flowering red kale, an orare best grown in full sun, but can tolerate some namental variety (still entirely edible) that grows in rosettes shade—but too much shade causes plants to succumb to pests.

Well-established kale can persist into the summer and somewith a deep blood-red center. times into the following year, but such plants are more prone The more pedestrian varieties of kale can be grown from nursery-grown starts (most commonly found in 4-inch pots to problems, like aphids. In the cooler areas of our region, well-watered or well-fed plants can suffer frost damage, but a or six-packs). This includes my favorite, Tuscan kale. But little frost and cool weather can improve the flavor of kale. ✜ more variety is available if you start from seed, obtained online or in print catalogs.

Jared McKinley is the associate publisher of Edible Baja Arizona

P

G ARDENING W ITHOUT A G ARDEN

S

ome of you may want to grow a garden, but lack

the space for it where you live. The formation of public, community gardens is a growing trend in Tucson (and in the country), which can provide you with an option for space to grow. Community gardens are sometimes free (if supported by

a neighborhood association), but often have minimal fees—usually under $20—that go toward water bills and resources for the garden, like irrigation supplies, shovels, or infrastructure. For the most updated list of community gardens in the Tucson area, visit CommunityGardensof Tucson.org.

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[E.H.]

Easy Container Gardening

By Nicole Thill | Illustrations by Danny Martin

K

aela Wilford wanted to eat fresh veggies but she

didn’t have a lot of space in her backyard. Marylee Pangman wanted to plant her garden higher off the ground for easy access. Peter Bourque wanted to put a couple of old bathtubs to use, instead of throwing them away.

For these three Tucsonans, container gardens were the answer.

Container gardening follows the same basic premise as traditional gardening, but plants are all grown within some type of enclosed and raised receptacle. By using containers you target your water use, have control over the soil quality, and have the option to raise or lower your beds to meet your personal needs.

Pangman teaches gardening classes at the Tucson Botanical Gardens and has been growing plants in her own pots for years. She also owns her own gardening company, The Potted Desert, and consults with clients all over southern Arizona about potted gardens.

“What’s really nice is to sit in your chair and tend to your plants,” Pangman said. “It’s one of the reasons I started doing it.”

The class size varies from small groups of eight up to groups of 50 people. She said she’s surprised at the number of people coming out to the classes.

“Edibles are definitely on the list of what people want to learn about,” Pangman said.

Container gardens can be made from just about anything that holds soil. Pangman buys pots and Bourque uses old containers and scrap materials. It’s all about personal style and how you want your garden to look.

“The pots themselves are gorgeous. They’re like the podium for the plants,” Pangman said. “It’s this organic piece of art that’s shown in this gorgeous pot.”

Container garden watering can also be more directly targeted than in-ground bed gardens. Nearby trees, weeds, and dry dirt don’t absorb water that was intended for your garden plants. While water usage is targeted, plants still need shade to retain moisture, even in cooler winter months. As your garden grows in the summer, more frequent watering may be needed. It’s important to keep an eye on the exposure of your plants throughout the year and adjust their location or watering schedule to accommodate.

Bourque also said container gardens give you more control over the quality and blend of soil and manure you use in your garden. Bourque blends ground soil, fertilizer, manure, and compost to keep his soil well fed, and makes his own compost from kitchen scraps.

Bourque has been making container gardens out of old bathtubs for seven years. Boppa’s Garden, as his family has named it, also has pool filter tubs, repurposed grills, and barrels holding soil full of lush garden plants. His son, Jesse, is a contractor and started giving him old tubs as they were pulled out of renovated homes. Bourque wanted to do something useful with them.

He set them up in his backyard, filled them with soil, and began to grow. Bourque had been a gardener before, but for him, this was different. He was able to control the soil he was using more easily and was able to arrange his garden pots like he wanted.

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[E.H.] “It’s really satisfying to see photosynthesis happen,” Bourque said. “We’re going to have salad every night for the next seven months now, so it helps us eat better, too.”

Picking the right size pots is an important step. You can use decorated terracotta, an old plastic bucket, or a wooden barrel on its way to the trash. The key is making sure it can hold enough soil. The container should be at least two feet deep, and 14-18 inches across if you plan to grow small plants like lettuces and greens. For bigger veggies, a 24-inch pot might work better.

One common mistake is to start too big or trying to grow too many veggies at once. Pick one or two veggies you’re interested in and start there. If they grow well, it’s always easy to begin potting more plants or experimenting once you’ve had some success.

Growing fresh herbs and salad ingredients like lettuce, radishes, and tomatoes is a good place to start. Try to grow vegetables with shallow root systems. Container gardens don’t lend themselves well to things like pumpkins or squash, but they’re good for plants like lettuce, greens, carrots, peas, and broccoli. Beans that grow in bushes are also good because of the growth pattern of the plant, said Pangman.

PANGMAN RECOMMENDS THESE

7 BASIC STEPS TO GET STARTED ON YOUR CONTAINER GARDEN TODAY .

1. Buy a pot: Or a bucket. Rescue an old crate, grill, or washtub. Anything that holds soil will work.

2. Pick a location: Look at the size of your container and find a place in your yard, windowsill, or porch that will accommodate the pot. Keep in mind that plants need sun, water, and shade when selecting a place to plop down your garden. Remember, if your pots aren’t too heavy you can always move the plants as needed.

3. Pick your plants: Decide what you want to grow. Lettuce, kale, peas, carrots, radishes are all good winter crops.

4. Grab some soil: Blending topsoil, compost, and manure to get a nutrient-rich soil blend is one way to do it. Any soil with organic material in it helps hold in moisture and nutrients which will help your garden grow.

5. Hit the store: You can start from seeds or buy seedlings to transplant into your containers. If you’re just starting out, visit local nurseries for more tips on how and what to grow.

6. Arrange your garden: If you buy seedlings, transfer them right away to their new garden homes. If you buy seeds, determine which veggies will grow in what pots and start planting.

7. Water, water, water: Make sure to water starter plants right away and keep a daily watering schedule. See how the plants react and adjust how much and how often you water, but don’t let them sit too long without any moisture. ✜ Nicole Thill is a journalism major at the University of Arizona with minors in Spanish and astronomy. She is a native Tucsonan and loves to eat new foods, cook, and bake.

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[E.H.]

Kitchen 101

Text and photography by Molly Patrick

C

HOW TO PRESERVE LEMONS

ommon in Moroccan cooking, preserved lemons add a flavor profile to dishes that you can’t get from a regular lemon. They’re super easy to prepare—the sooner you get to preserving, the sooner you can enjoy.

You will need: A sterilized glass jar; enough lemons, sliced in quarters, to fill the jar to the very top; and 1 tablespoon of salt per lemon Sprinkle 1 tablespoon of salt in the bottom of the jar and layer one layer of lemons over the salt, pressing the lemons into the salt. Sprinkle another tablespoon of salt over the first layer of lemons and repeat until the lemons come up to the very top of the jar.

If the lemon juice from the existing lemons doesn’t cover the top layer of lemons, then juice a couple more and pour just the juice over the lemons so that all are completely covered.

Sprinkle a bit more salt over the last layer and seal the jar. Place the jar into a dark cupboard at room temperature for one month. After you open the jar, store in the fridge and use within one year.

When you use your preserved lemons, give them a slight rinse and then chop them up, peels and all.

F

S IMPLE, D ELICIOUS FENNEL

ennel is in the same family as carrots, celery, dill, and parsley. It’s packed with antioxidants, high in fiber, and it’s an anti-inflammatory food. The flavor is a clean, refreshing combination of celery and anise. The smaller the fennel, the more tender it is; the larger the fennel, the more coarse and fibrous it will be.

The fennel bulb is the most commonly used part of the plant. You can’t do much with the stalk, but you can use the delicate green fronds as you would use any other fresh herb.

It’s super tasty to throw into a salad or to garnish a soup.

Here’s a simple recipe to return to time and again. Cut the stalks off one big bulb of fennel so you’re left with just the bulb. Slice the tough end off from the very bottom of the bulb and then cut the bulb in half. Thinly slice the fennel into half-moons and place in a bowl. Add some raisins, some quartered kalamata olives, a couple teaspoons of lemon juice, a kiss of olive oil, and a pinch of sea salt. Mix everything together and place in a bowl. Top with chopped walnuts and a few sprigs of the green frond when you’re ready to serve.

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[E.H.] R OOT V EGGIES THREE WAYS

R

are everywhere this time of year. They fill up CSA boxes and find their way to kitchens, only to get ignored until too many are piled up and you can’t see past the celery root. When you’re ready to tackle your root veggies, try these three techniques and never have a root veggie pileup again. oot Veggies

R OOT V EGGIE PANCAKES These are like potato latkes, but instead of potatoes, you can use whatever root veggies you have lying around. You can whip these up in less than 15 minutes.

Take 2 cups of grated root veggies and combine them in a mixing bowl with half of a grated onion, 2 tablespoons of rice flour, and 3 tablespoons of either chia seeds or flax meal, 1 green onion, ¼ cup of water, a pinch or two of salt, and some fresh cracked black pepper.

Stir the ingredients until everything is combined and heat olive oil in a skillet. When the oil is hot, scoop up some of the veggie mixture and form it in the shape of a little pancake and then pan fry on either side until golden brown. Do this until all the mixture is used up. Drizzle with tahini or top with cashew cheese and serve.

R OOT V EGETABLE G RATIN If you’ve never used root veggies in this application, you’ve been missing out. This is quite possibly the easiest gratin recipe out there and it will leave you totally satisfied but not weighed down.

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You can use any root veggies you like, but a good combination is 1 celery root, 1 turnip, 1 rutabaga, and 1 beet. Start by parboiling the veggies until they’re soft enough to cut through them easily, but not soft enough so they fall apart.

Slice into thin rounds. Lightly oil an 8 by 8 inch baking pan and evenly distribute the root veggies.

Place 2 cups of veggie broth, 1 cup of cashew pieces, 2 tablespoons of rice flour, and a pinch or two of salt and pepper in a blender and blend until smooth, about a minute or two.

Pour mixture over the veggies, drizzle a little olive oil on top, and place in a 350° oven for 45 minutes to an hour, or until the top is bubbly and brown and the veggies are tender.

S IMPLE ROASTED ROOT V EGGIES Roasting is one of the easiest and tastiest ways to prepare root veggies. Use whatever root veggies you have on hand, and cut them into whatever size pieces you want. You can leave the smaller ones like carrots and parsnips whole, or slice in half.

Veggies that have a thick skin, like celery root and kohlrabi, need to be peeled, while other veggies like beets and turnips don’t need to be peeled.

Place the cut veggies in a large bowl and add some good quality olive oil or coconut oil, fresh herbs, some acid, like vinegar or orange juice, a few peeled and smashed garlic cloves, and a pinch or two of salt and pepper. Pop them in a 400° oven and roast for 40-45 minutes, or until golden brown.

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[E.H.]

Knives 101 The only three knives you need in your kitchen Text and photography by Molly Patrick

C

ooking quality food in your home kitchen is not only less expensive than going out, it’s also healthier. Whether you’re cooking for your family, your friends, or just yourself, there’s nothing like being prepared before you get cookin’—which means getting out your knives! There are really just three knives that you need.

The most essential knife to have in your kitchen is an 8-10 inch chef ’s knife. Don’t be intimidated by the name. You and your chef ’s knife will do 85-90 percent of all your daily cooking tasks. While you can skimp on the quality of some kitchen items, it’s important to have a good quality chef ’s knife. You can get a good one starting at $100. Once you have your chef ’s knife in hand, you will be able to do almost anything with it, from cutting and dicing to chopping veggies, fruits, meats, and fish. Chef ’s knives are typically heavier than other knives, but once you use it a few times the weight will feel natural and you will feel totally in control. The next most important knife in your collection is a small paring knife.

A paring knife is great for small kitchen jobs that your chef ’s knife is too big for, like slicing herbs, cutting shallots, slicing garlic, and cutting small fruits like raspberries. It’s also a must-have for paring—go figure! The blade should be 3-4 inches long. A good quality paring knife should cost around $20.

A bread knife isn’t crucial, but it does round out the other two knives nicely. It is most commonly used for slicing through thick loaves of bread, but it can also be used on veggies and fruits with a waxy exterior, like tomatoes and pineapple. Because serrated knives can’t really be sharpened, you don’t have to dish out a lot of “dough” for one that will work. Choose one that’s 12 inches or longer and budget around $15 for it. Serrated knives are used for slicing and never chopping.

Don’t forget: Knives should be professionally sharpened at least once a year.

Molly Patrick blogs at BoldVegan.com

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Gardener Q&A: Russ Buhrow Interview by Jared R. McKinley | Photography by Addie Mannan

W

hile Russ Buhrow

was the curator of plants at Tohono Chul Park—a position he held for 21 years—he introduced many new species of native plants into the nursery trade, including many of his own selections and hybrids. In retirement, he’s still growing lots of saguaros, running a sawmill, and is planning other “top secret” projects. I first met Russ in the 1990s, when I owned a small plant nursery.

Were you always into plants?

I grew up on a farm, so we always had a garden and grew things. When I went to college, I went to study astronomy and found out it wasn’t what I thought; it wasn’t looking through telescopes.

It was just a bunch of math and physics. It wasn’t as much fun for me—I like to do more hands-on stuff. After a short break, when I went back to college, I changed my focus to agronomy, and then gravitated toward more horticultural stuff. Agronomy was right next to astronomy in the catalog, so …

Back in the 1990s, I remember you were growing all kinds of weird plants. One stands out in my memory, a plant that nobody else was growing: Crossosoma bigelovii, or ragged rockflower.

Nobody knew how to grow it. They would try to germinate some seeds, and the germination would be poor and they would give up. All you have to do is select for nondormancy—it takes a couple of generations.

But you were growing a plant that had no demand, except for plant weirdos like us.

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Well somebody has to lead.

The world is full of followers.

But really to me, it was just about growing pretty plants that were appropriate for our environment. Crossosoma is a beautiful plant.

People want to grow Camellias or they want to grow ... azaleas. And I just can’t believe it. Are you kidding me?

They like acid soil! Our soil is alkaline. Some spots at Tohono Chul are so alkaline, it’s almost corrosive! There are plants that are here and grow in soil like that. And they’re happy. And they are beautiful.

We still sell a lot of non-natives in the nursery trade.

People did a lot of development in Europe a long time ago. They found plants native to their area, or sometimes from expeditions to Asia or elsewhere, brought them into their yards, and grew them because they were interesting or pretty. Over time they picked the better ones. That is all I do: what they did then but with our own native plants. For some reason, maybe we are in a state of arrested development, we just hang on to those plants instead of developing plants here, appropriate to our own climate.

Do you think nostalgia plays a part in us hanging on to those plants?

Yes. People want what they know, what they grew up with.

But again, someone has to lead. Get the new things into the market. If they are pretty, and you are the only one who has them, those plants will sell. It was good doing the work I did under a nonprofit. We could spend the time and energy looking and selecting [new selections] and if one of those plants got popular, the nurseries might pick them up. Those guys have to make money. But see, this is where the nonprofits

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have a place—development. Nurseries mostly pick up what is already popular, native or non-native, and maybe they will work on improving those plants. But they have to make money. I know a lot of people who were [doing development] and went broke.

You have quite an asparagus bed. Is this Martha Washington?

I was one of them.

What citrus are you growing?

Well, there you go. That was the nice things about [Tohono Chul]. Take penstemons. We were growing like something between 30 and 50 different ones. Many of those were tough [to grow], but there were 10-15 that worked ... most anybody could grow them. Now all you have in the trade predictably are about 3 or 4 kinds.

Let’s see, that’s a ruby red [grapefruit], and there is a moro blood orange. And we have a kinnow mandarin, a Washington navel, minneola tangelo, Valencia orange, Arizona sweet orange, and a marrs orange.

The kinnow mandarin is really, really good. Problem is you have to wait. They start getting really good in March, really April, so you have to wait.

Are you still developing plants?

I still do plant breeding. I have some projects now. It’s all top secret. When something comes out, I will let you know.

Is the winter garden your favorite?

Winter gardens are nice because you get a lot more food for the amount of water you put out. But I like the summer garden better. I love corn. I love squash. I like growing fresh tomatoes and peppers. That costs a lot of money, though.

The only way tomatoes and peppers make economic sense is if you container grow them, and keep the adjacent trees from sucking the water from them. People don’t realize how much trees suck the water out of the garden. Use big pots. Plastic pots that don’t let water evaporate out of the sides. We often put a bunch of large plastic pots up against each other and that keeps them from going dry too fast.

No it was some other variety; it’s supposed to be super fat.

But the damn dog eats them off! We never got any asparagus because he got at them all.

You have a fig tree, too.

Yeah, I don’t have the variety name on that, but it’s one of those yellow ones. Super sugary. We got a frost recently here.

They don’t taste as good when the trees start going to sleep.

Those stress chemicals. As soon as they got hit by the frost we just had, they went from really yummy to the birds aren’t even eating them.

Any advice for beginning gardeners?

Don’t blame the plant. The plant never fails. We just have to figure out what it needs. Give the plant what it needs and it will thrive. ✜ Jared McKinley is the associate publisher of Edible Baja Arizona

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Free Baby Saguaro Cactus

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[E.H.]

Farm Report

W HAT’S IN SEASON IN BAJA ARIZONA.

By Sara Jones | Photography by Liora K

F

or most of the country , eating local in winter means eating

storage items like large roots and dense cabbages. Lucky for us, fresh produce is available here year-round.

Winter markets in our region are lovely and abundant. Different hues of green, gold, red, and purple leaves spill over market displays and vibrantly colored root veggies abound. But let’s face it: Winter crops just don’t have the prestige and allure of summer crops. Sun-ripened tomatoes, watermelon, and sweet corn evoke the nostalgia of childhood summers. Many winter crops, like cooking greens, beets, and turnips, evoke a very different sort of memory—a soggy pile of overcooked veggies that had to be consumed before you could leave the dinner table.

If you grew up disliking any of these winter vegetables, now is the time to revisit them. Seed companies have scoured the world and have developed better-tasting varieties in the past couple of decades.

Take the turnip. The earthy, funky nature of this veggie can turn some people off, but sweeter varieties of salad turnips are now available, which have a milder flavor and crisp, juicy flesh. Rattlebox Farm owners Dana Helfer and Paul Buseck sell vegetables and offer a CSA pick-up at the Thursday Santa Cruz River farmers’ market at the Mercado San Agustín. They offer two varieties of salad turnips and Dana says, “We find that people who like radishes love them.” The creamy white hakurei, or Japanese salad turnip, and the Ruby Queen have a more subtle turnip flavor and their flesh is crisp and sweet. “We have grown these turnips since we started out five years ago. They are easy to grow and customers ask for them,” Dana says. These turnips are great for salads, where they are frequently mistaken for apples, and for quick sautés and stir fries.

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G REENS AND BUTTERNUT S QUASH IN G INGER C OCONUT S AUCE You can use any greens you like in this recipe. It is particularly good with pak choi, as the succulent stems soak up the sauce. If you like curry flavors, add more spices to the mix, sautéing them with the onions before adding the rest of the ingredients. Add tofu, garbanzo beans, or chicken and serve over rice for a complete meal.

In a large skillet, heat oil over medium high heat and add onion. Cook, stirring occasionally until the onion begins to brown. Add ginger, chile flakes, and coriander and cook until fragrant. Add vegetables and coconut milk, plus about ½ cup of water. Bring to a low simmer and cook until squash is tender.

Season to taste with soy sauce or fish sauce and a bit of lime juice.

1 large bunch greens, cleaned and roughly chopped about 2 cups peeled winter squash or sweet potatoes, diced small 1 inch fresh ginger, grated 1 onion, sliced thinly ½ teaspoon ground coriander 1 tablespoon oil 1 cup garbanzo beans, tofu, or chicken ½ can coconut milk red chile flakes, to taste soy sauce or fish sauce, to taste lime juice and zest from one lime

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[E.H.]

G

W INTER G REENS

reens like collards , kale, chard, and mustard are favorites of farmers because they are cut-and-comeagain crops. That means that farmers can harvest the big outer leaves and leave the central stem and smaller leaves to continue growing. During the shortest days of winter, plants grow slowly, but as days get longer, things speed up and farmers can harvest the same plants more frequently.

Make sure to use the more delicate varieties of greens first.

Most lettuces, spinach, and chard have thin leaves that wilt quickly, while hearty greens like kale and collard will maintain their shape and texture much longer. This is true in the veggie drawer as well as with cooking, where smaller leaves and more delicate varieties of greens wilt down much faster than thicker varieties. Greens should be washed before using, to remove any grit. The best way to clean greens, especially curly and crinkled varieties, is to submerge them in a large bowl of water. Dunk and swish handfuls of leaves, shake gently, and lay them on a clean kitchen towel to drain. Remove any tough stems by folding leaves in half and cutting along stem or simply tearing greens away from stalk. To cut greens, stack several leaves and roll into a loose cigar shape. Use a sharp knife to cut into desired size.

Sweet and tender lettuces are best prepared simply. Take cleaned and dried greens and add a light drizzle of citrus juice, plus an even lighter drizzle of good quality olive oil and a sprinkle of salt. Toss gently and serve as is or topped with very thinly sliced root vegetables or apples. For heartier salad greens, like romaine lettuce, endives and escaroles, arugula, or kale, choose dressings and toppings with more assertive flavors to balance any bitter or spicy taste in the greens. Creamy and/or tangy dressings are a good choice.

Ask at the farmers’ market about the varieties of greens they grow. They can help you choose something you might like and give you recipe ideas. Or visit the La Oesta Gardens booth at the Heirloom Farmers’ Market at Rillito Park; they have a wide variety of veggies labeled with helpful signs that include nutrition and cooking information.

R

TURNIPS , BEETS , R ADISHES , AND K OHLRABI oasting intensifies the sugars and earthy flavors of

root vegetables. Slice into wedges, toss with oil, and cook an entire baking sheet full so you have leftovers.

Mix with eggs or shredded meat and you have an easy breakfast. The roasted veggies are also a nice addition to any salad—they are particularly delicious in a grain salad, drizzled with a good balsamic vinegar, and seasoned to taste with salt and freshly ground pepper.

Shredding root vegetables transforms them into something unexpected. Shredded, they are perfect for slaws, both creamy and tart versions. If you have a favorite coleslaw recipe, try substituting a mix of turnips, beets, radishes, or kohlrabi (not technically a root but similar) for the cabbage. You can also sauté shredded root vegetables with onions, letting them brown slightly, as a base for soups or pasta sauces.

I

C ITRUS

N B AJA A R IZONA , greens and citrus are in season at the same time. The tangy sweetness of citrus is a perfect complement to most greens.

A squeeze of citrus on greens, cooked or raw, is an excellent way to add a finishing touch to the dish. Citrus also lightens root vegetable recipes.

Last year’s mild spring that came with relatively light winds has made for a great citrus harvest this year.

Desert Treasures offers a large variety of citrus for sale at the Saturday and Sunday Heirloom Farmers’ Market at Rillito Park, as well as the Saturday Oro Valley market.

You will find varieties of oranges, grapefruit, and tangerines as well as kumquats. Chris Duggan of Desert Treasures says its Arizona Sweet oranges are especially popular. “Arizona Sweets are a sweet juice orange, with less pulp and a more balanced flavor for juicing,” he says. “They are very popular because they are hard to find elsewhere.” If you can’t make it on Sunday, don’t worry—citrus will show up at most markets across the region. Locally available citrus is mostly organic and free from wax, so it is perfect for zesting. Zesting removes tiny strips of the colorful and highly aromatic peel without any of the bitter pith that lies underneath. Add citrus zest anywhere you are using the juice, including salad dressings, marinades, sauces, and baked goods.

Sara Jones is a longtime employee of the Tucson CSA.

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IN THE BUSINESS

What’s on Tap? Only a year after it opened its doors, Rebecca and Scott Safford’s Tap & Bottle has become the place where everybody knows your name—or at least your favorite beer.

By Rachel Mindell | Photography by Liora K

You and Scott Safford own Tap & Bottle. Ten years ago, you were a server at Café Poca Cosa. Can you lead us from then to now?

Working at a local institution like Café Poca Cosa was an important foundation for what we’re doing at Tap & Bottle. I got to take part in a successful business that’s been going for a long time, even when downtown wasn’t what downtown is now. Poca Cosa is run by a strong woman, and this planted the seeds for thinking about how I’d run a business.

I’d be there, I’d be involved every step of the way, and I’d be downtown, because that’s what I love about Tucson.

Fast forward 10 years, my partner Scott and I envisioned a place where we would want to hang out, as professionals who have remained in Tucson and love beer. We were both really passionate about craft brewing. We planned vacations around visiting breweries and loved spending time at local breweries— Barrio, Dragoon, 1055, Borderlands.

We wanted to create a similar environment where you could also have a unique bottle selection from around the U.S. and around the world. We would go to California or Colorado and travel with huge coolers to bring back beer for our friends and ourselves. Why not own

that space? Tucson has breweries, we have restaurants with great craft beer, restaurants that highlight great wine; we wanted a place to bring it all together—hence the name.

What were your strategies for building relationships with local breweries, wineries, and the Tucson community?

Our engagement with the community started before we opened, when Tap & Bottle was just an idea. In order to be a thriving business in this town, we needed friends to support us and answer questions. Some of these relationships we’d been fostering long, long before we opened. Scott and I are really new to some of this—we didn’t know how to set up beer and wine taps or a cask system. People have been incredible [in helping us]. It’s been about friendships and businesses helping businesses and it continues to grow with events like tap takeovers or when local breweries release new beers. We want to feature what’s happening in our beer community. Even if they’re happening outside our space, we’re all supporting each other to support the craft. Tap & Bottle’s philosophy is that it’s not just about Tap & Bottle.

It’s about craft as a whole. It’s not Tucson versus Phoenix, or Tucson versus Flagstaff. It’s about how we can support communities as a whole.

If Tap & Bottle had a motto, it’d be this one, exalted by co-owner Rebecca Safford.

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The beer and wine list changes constantly at Tap & Bottle—sometimes even in the middle of a shift.

Tap & Bottle promotes both drinking and eating local. How?

We’re constantly changing the beer and wine tap lists to highlight what’s happening in our town and our state. Typically, one or two wines are from Arizona wineries, and we usually feature several Arizona beers. Because we don’t serve food, we encourage guests to support local takeout from Gio Taco, Brooklyn Pizza, Martin’s, Tasteful Kitchen, Empire Pizza, and Food for Ascension. We provide food on site three nights a week with food trucks that serve all kinds of different cuisine, like Indian, Cajun, Vietnamese, and Mexican. They focus on the food; we focus on the beverages. Everyone benefits from a lovely place to eat and drink. Plus, we are walking distance to downtown and Fourth Avenue. We hope that encourages people to make more than one stop at local businesses.

We are dedicated to serving our community and our neighborhood. I want to be the neighborhood beer and bottle shop.

Where you stop by after work and drink a pint, pick up a bottle of wine or a six-pack to go home.

People flock to Tap & Bottle to imbibe more than beer. What do you hope guests will experience in your space?

We want it to be a friendly place that encourages discussion, so there are no televisions. We want people to feel comfortable coming in alone. The staff includes brewers, and people with experience in other local spots—they all bring in their friends.

It’s fun to see people having meetings here, like brewers clubs that will come in to open different bottles and taste test. The guys from Borderlands will stop by. I see people in the industry hanging out here. A lot of times when restaurants are looking to expand their list, they’ll come taste from the bottle shop.

In terms of architecture, I wanted Tap & Bottle to feel like it had been around a while. A space that wasn’t new and shiny. I love our old dusty building—it already has so much

character despite only being open a year. Tucson didn’t have a craft beer bar and bottle shop but we wanted it to feel organic and authentic. Like once you started going there, you couldn’t even imagine what it was like before you had that favorite space where you go all the time.

It’s fun, we have a good time here and you can feel it. At least one night a week we have local music and it contributes to a great environment. The shows are always free and the door is open so you can come by anytime.

What are the joys and challenges of being a female in the craft beer world, which is largely dominated by males?

I know so many amazing individuals—brewers, vendors, customers. It’s such a fun community. Everyone is so excited and supportive. Yes, at this time, it’s mostly male dominated and that does stand out. You’re constantly dealing with stereotypes, like I didn’t know that girls like beer, or what’s a girly beer you have on tap? People have ideas about the kind of beers men drink and women drink.

I’d say, though, that we’re living in a very exciting time.

There are a lot more women entering the craft beer world at all levels, from the brewing process to selling to marketing to owning businesses. At the bar, sometimes there are more women than men. I love when women come in and want to learn more.

That’s how the community grows and people come to work in the field. In Tucson, Girls Pint Out started their chapter in October of 2013. Each month there’s an educational and social event—each month it gets bigger and bigger. ✜ Tap & Bottle. 403 N. Sixth Ave. 520.344.8999.

TheTapAndBottle.com.

Rachel Mindell grew up in Tucson and currently lives in Montana, where she teaches and writes poetry.

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4th Avenue The Crazy Heart of Tucson

SHOPPING • DRINKS • VINTAGE • FASHION • FOOD

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ARTISAN

Is Your Refrigerator Running?

Vintage Appliances restores and rebuilds the classics that once populated our kitchens.

By Steve Renzi | Photography by Dominic AZ Bonuccelli

D

r i v ing through a section of industrial buildings on Tucson’s south side, I passed a fenced-in yard filled with row after row of old stoves, heaters, and refrigerators.

In the front of the yard was a single story, ranch-style building with a small sign next to the front door: Vintage Appliances.

The door opened at my knock. Before I could say a word, Pete Philip—6 foot 4 inches, wearing a cowboy hat, jeans, and boots—said: “Come on in and take a look.”

There it was, a 1950s Kelvinator refrigerator. The kind I grew up with: rounded top, chrome handle, and about 5 feet tall, completely restored and painted blue. Inside, the refrigerator was immaculate, cleaner than our family’s fridge ever was.

Feeling nostalgic, I pictured a glass tray filled with Jell-O, and a pitcher of Tang, calling my name.

The refrigerators and other kitchen appliances of our childhood may be gone, but they haven’t been forgotten. Vintage Appliances saves, repairs, and restores the kitchen appliances of yesteryear.

Vintage Appliances is one of the largest restorers and manufacturers of antique stoves, refrigerators, and custom iceboxes in the world, with an inventory of more than 800 vintage and antique appliances, including baseburners, oak heaters, gas heaters, and cook stoves.

Classic appliance restoration is comparable to classic automobile restoration. Appliances are completely taken apart, sandblasted, plated, reinsulated, dents and dings fixed, safety

valves installed, new parts fabricated, pinstriped, and painted.

Vintage Appliances also ensures that restored antique appliances adhere to modern safety standards. For example, early electric refrigerators often used ammonia as the coolant. That poisonous liquid has to be drained and replaced with a modern refrigerant.

Rich Allen founded Vintage Appliances two decades ago.

“He was a man of many talents—a housing developer and an appliance repairman—and it was as a repairman that he saw a niche market for antique appliances,” said Pete Philip, the manager. “Allen was a good friend of mine and when he passed away, I agreed to manage the business. We have six employees who work as technicians, repairmen, and restorers. We find most of our appliances on the Internet, or people call us. We don’t advertise much … Our customers appreciate what we can do.”

Hollywood agrees. Two refrigerators from Vintage Appliances were used in an Indiana Jones movie. An antique icebox was recently repaired, restored, and sent to the home of George Lucas, the director of Star Wars. And they just shipped a retro-’50s refrigerator to a customer in Scotland, who grew up watching American movies and wanted his home kitchen to reflect that era, Philip said.

Pete Philip, the manager of Vintage Appliances, took over the business when founder Rich Allen passed away.

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“We also supply the appliances used in many professional plays staged in downtown Tucson,” Philip said.

In the work area out back, restorers José Romero and Miguel Maldonado are working on an early 1900s McCray icebox that was found in an old barn in Yuma. The icebox is about seven feet tall and was once considered state-of-the-art, Philip said.

A complete restoration includes installing stainless steel lining, insulation, new shelves, door hinges, and electric lights as well as refinishing the exterior wood. A high-efficiency compressor, condenser, and fan motor will be placed where the block of ice used to go.

While Vintage Appliances focuses on restoring and repairing antique iceboxes, it also manufactures new iceboxes by customer request. Philip says the company recently made two custom iceboxes for a small brewery in the Northwest to display its beer.

In another work area, Leo Maldonado does the paint and body work. “I learned to do this kind of work by working on cars. I had my own car body shop for six years. The bodywork on an appliance may take one to two weeks. It depends. A complete restoration of an appliance may take up to three months, sometimes even longer,” Maldonado said.

Potential customers should realize that a completely restored vintage or antique appliance can be costly. Prices for stoves range from $4,200 to $265,000 and prices for refrigerators range from $2,000 to $60,000.

Do you have an antique or vintage appliance at home or in the garage and want to know its value? Vintage Appliances also does appraisals.

The retro kitchen is making a comeback, and it’s easy to see why. In the hallway at Vintage Appliances is a completely

When sparks fly: Chris Ratliff, one of six employees, works on restoring vintage parts to make a modern appliance.

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Left: A restored refrigerator, in all its chrome-colored glory. Right: Employee Ralph Boren works on servicing a serve-yourself Coca-Cola machine.

restored 1955 Kelvinator Foodarama. Big, sleek, contoured, and colorized, this double-door refrigerator is eight feet wide with a freezer compartment that can hold 166 pounds of food.

When it was first released, it was offered in eight colors with a breakfast cubicle for eggs and bacon, a dispenser rack for frozen juices, an unrefrigerated banana bin, and a butter-conditioning cubicle. The Foodarama would have looked at home on a 1950s automobile showroom floor—the only parts missing would have been tail fins.

Outside, the fenced-in yard is filled with scores of classic refrigerators with names like Whirlpool Supreme, Crosley

Shelvador, and the Philco Coldspot. Many of them are weathered from years in the Arizona sun, but walking among them is a study in modern industrial design, with their elegant pinstriping, chrome door handles, and rounded, contoured edges.

Fortunately, they have been saved from destruction. ✜ Vintage Appliances. 3262 E. Columbia St. 520.326.6849.

AntiqueVintageAppliances.com.

Steve Renzi is a freelance writer who once had a job delivering refrigerators, sometimes helping carry them up a flight of stairs. Writing is easier.

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A NEW TAKE ON THE OLD PUEBLO. MORE EVENTS AT DOWNTOWNTUCSON.ORG January

1/10 2nd Saturday Downtown 1/16-28 Tucson Jazz Festival Downtown 1/25-26 Dillinger Days Hotel Congress & Downtown

February

2/1–16 Gem Show Downtown 2/1–16 Gem Show Downtown

Coming soon to

The Crown Jewel of Downtown 17 WEST CONGRESS

MARK RUSSELL JAN 9 | 7:30PM

THE WAILERS - 50th Annivesary of “Legend” FEB 4 | 7:30PM

GLADYS KNIGHT FEB 15 | 7:00PM

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foxtucson.com | (520) 547-3040 JEFF BRIDGES JAN 10 | 7:30PM

STEEP CANYON RANGERS FEB 11 | 7:30PM

ROSEANNE CASH FEB 19 | 7:30PM

NEW CHRISTY MINSTRELS JAN 14 | 6:30PM

ROGER McGUINN

FEB 13 | 7:30PM

LITTLE RIVER BAND

FEB 21 | 7:30PM

TUCSON JAZZ FESTIVAL

Joey DeFrancesco Quartet - JAN 15 Dianne Reeves - JAN 18 The Hot Sardines - JAN 23 JD Souther w/Billy Childs - JAN 24 Allan Harris - JAN 25 Burt Bacharach - JAN 28

ZAP MAMA & ANTIBALAS FEB 25 | 7:30PM

BANFF FILM FESTIVAL MAR 18 & 19 | 7:30PM

PINK FLOYD EXPERIENCE MAR 22 | 7:00PM

BLUES HALL OF FAME MAR 26 | 7:30PM

ARLO GUTHRIE APR 2 | 7:30PM

RICK SPRINGFIELD APR 9 | 7:30PM

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FALL MENU IS HERE! 520.250.8201 • hubdowntown.com

Brunch, Lunch, Dinner & Late Night PLAYGROUNDTUCSON.COM

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POLICY

More Salad, Please!

School lunches get a much-needed makeover.

By Merrill Eisenberg | Photography by Moses Thompson

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in late November at Manzo Elementary School in Tucson’s Barrio Hollywood.

The kids are gathered on the lawn in the school’s central courtyard. Standing on stage, Principal Mark Alvarez asks them, “Who’s ready to eat some salad?” The students respond with a resounding “Yeah!” Principal Alvarez shares the stage with Tucson Mayor Jonathan Rothschild; the director of the Pima County Health Department, Dr. Francisco Garcia, the superintendent of Tucson Unified School District, Dr. H.T. Sanchez, and many others from the school and community. They are celebrating the first meal served in any Pima County school that includes fruit and vegetables sourced directly from a garden that the children themselves tended.

Last year, the Arizona Department of Health Services issued guidelines that establish safe practices for growing and harvesting food from school gardens. Garcia and Nick Henry, the farm-to-child program manager at the Community Food Bank of Southern Arizona, had a lot to do with that. Garcia says that he “spent significant political capital” to convince the state to adopt reasonable guidelines. Henry, a gardening and composting aficionado, was deeply involved in working out the details.

Manzo is the first school in Pima County to become certified.

Manzo’s school garden project is part of a nationwide effort to improve the nutritional quality of food served to children in schools. U.S. schools began providing lunches in 1853, when t ’ s a sunn y noontime

a private social service agency in New York offered meals for “poverty stricken children.”

The practice spread throughout the United States, and in 1932, the federal government started subsidizing these programs. In 1946, the National School Lunch Act started distributing commodity food to schools and reimbursing schools for meals served to children from low-income families nationwide.

In my day—in the 1950s and ’60s—school lunches consisted of unrecognizable blobs of some sort of meat and vegetable concoction served with syrupy canned fruit salad and a little carton of milk. In my kid’s day—1980s and ’90s—it was tacos, hamburgers, and a candy bar and soda from the school vending machine.

But since then, as childhood obesity rates have steadily increased, policy efforts have been pursued at the local and state levels to improve school food. For example, in 2006, the Arizona legislature prohibited elementary, middle, and junior high schools from selling “sugared, carbonated beverages and all other foods of minimal nutritional value” on school campuses.

But it was not until passage of the federal 2010 Healthy, Hunger-Free Kids Act (HHFKA) that a serious attempt was made to address what we serve to kids during the school day.

Among other system changes, HHFKA increases the number of servings of fruits and vegetables, and requires that half of the grain products served be whole grains. It reduces the amount of sodium and calories permitted, and eliminates trans fats. Tater

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(Left) Kellie Sheehan, a UA Community and School Garden intern, harvests lettuce with Ulysses Martinez, age 6, at Manzo Elementary.

(Above) Another 6-year-old, Kyana Villa, digs right in to her salad.

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Tots are no longer counted as vegetables (nor is ketchup being considered). HHFKA also increases the federal reimbursement rate for school meals.

Many have criticized HHFKA as being an unwanted intrusion into personal choice and an expansion of the “nanny state.”

However, a strong case can be made for supporting federal policy that provides healthy food to schoolchildren based on the recent steep increase in obesity and in obesity-related diseases, such as heart disease and diabetes, among children as well as adults, and the documented impact of obesity on our nation in terms of health-care costs, lost workplace productivity, and even military readiness.

Implementing the new nutritional standards for school lunches has not been easy. Changing standards does not mean that chefs—or school food service directors—will suddenly know how to use these new ingredients to prepare tasty meals that children accept. Indeed, common complaints in the media about the new standards include that the food tastes bad and that children leave the lunchroom hungry.

It’s true: kids are picky eaters. Shirley Sokol, the director of food services for the Tucson Unified School District, says, “Our perpetual challenge is to keep the students’ interest in the menu and to support a menu with tasty, nutritious meals.” TUSD has worked hard to implement the new standards in a way that satisfies the students. “My focus is to bring the fun back to food,” Sokol says. No small task for someone who oversees the preparation of 40,000 meals every day. Under her guidance, TUSD conducts taste tests, offers samples, and creates innovative menu designs and packaging to encourage students to try new items.

Outside research supports these efforts. One study showed that children are significantly more likely to eat carrots labeled as “X-ray Vision Carrots” than if they are unnamed—one reason that the school district has developed choices like “upside down lasagna” and “angry shrimp” for new entrees. Fresh fruits and vegetables are now presented in clear packaging so that their colors can encourage students to choose them. As a result, par-

ticipation in school lunch programs, which had dwindled when HHFKA was first implemented, has now started to increase.

But those responsible for preparing school meals do struggle with the new requirements. Delgado’s Catering prepares 3,500 meals each day for 23 local charter schools. Owner Adan Delgado reports that he has had problems finding sources for items that meet the new standards. Several large vendors have pulled out of the school food market since passage of HHFKA. Even when healthy food is available, it is more expensive.

Even with HHFKA’s 6 cent per meal increase in the Federal reimbursement rate (from $2.98 per meal to $3.04 per meal for free school lunches), costs are still a concern. Delgado says that regular chicken nuggets cost two cents each, while those breaded in whole wheat cost five cents each. He says he develops menus based on what administrators tell him the students like, and they do not seem to like the foods that comply easily with HHFKA. Delgado thinks that is because they are not used to eating these healthy foods at home.

“Kids don’t like wraps or hummus,” he says. “They go home hungry and complain to their parents that the food is bad.” Delgado believes that the new standards will not gain in popularity until there is a “change in the hearts and minds at home.”

Back at Manzo Elementary School, where children are involved in planting, nurturing, and harvesting fresh food, students are learning to try—and enjoy—healthy foods. When asked about the salad on her lunchroom tray, one first grader told me, “I never tried it before—looking at it, it looks gross.”

But then she enthusiastically stabs a forkful of lettuce and strawberries, and continues while chewing. “But yum! I ate it because I grew it, and it is good.”

For more information on garden-to-cafeteria programs in Arizona, visit: http://www.azdhs.gov/phs/oeh/fses/ school-garden/index.php Merrill Eisenberg is an applied anthropologist who is retired from the University of Arizona’s Zuckerman College of Public Health.

(Left) Joseph Norzagoray, 6, harvests Swiss chard from a Manzo garden bed.

(Right) Along with fellow kindergarteners, Ulysses Martinez, 6, harvests greens for their lunchtime salads.

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4

201

Tucson’s Reigning iron Chef team e GRINGO Joined th &is ready to awaken our

five senses

Open for lunch

happy hour mon-sat

Open for dinner

full service catering

520.887.3777

5900 North Oracle Rd

gringogrilltucson.com

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SHOP· DINE· EXPLORE

Spend a day in the real old town!

• Lots of garage parking downtown on weekdays.

See "P" on the map.

• Free street parking on the weekend.

• Pick up a Turqoise Trail map at any of these locations to walk the historic downtown.

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IN THE HISTORIC

PRESIDIO DISTRICT Celebrating the fine art of wine.

CRUSH pARTy

Friday, April 10, 2015 Tucson Museum of Art

Taste phenomenal wines from around the world and culinary creations from Tucson’s best restaurants, with a live performance by Cirque Roots, a special appearance by artist Mat Bevel, and more!

For tickets and more information call 520-624-2333 or order online: TucsonMuseumofArt.org

N

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FOOD TRUCK

Luxury for All The Ritz-Carlton Dove Mountain’s Roadrunner food truck offers resort food at food-truck prices.

By Jennifer Nalewicki | Photography by Liora K

T

off the metal siding of the Roadrunner food truck, reflecting its image onto the swimming pool at The Ritz-Carlton Dove Mountain in Marana.

Nearby, kids and adults alike form a line and order from the parked truck’s window. On today’s menu: three flavors of homemade ice cream served with a selection of toppings that would satisfy anyone with a sweet tooth (think chocolate sauce, white chocolate curls, toasted pecans, whipped cream, fresh berries, and assorted candies). The Roadrunner serves as a mobile culinary service for the resort and makes regular appearances on its manicured Sonoran Desert grounds, which are shadowed by the nearby Tortolita Mountains.

The food truck made its debut in 2012, three years after the resort opened. Much like The Ritz-Carlton’s six other onsite eateries, which include a bistro and a sushi bar, food quality is paramount. Chefs prepare dishes using the freshest ingredients, some of which come plucked straight from the onsite herb garden or citrus orchard. The only real difference is the method of delivery. Rather than having a waiter with a white cloth draped from his wrist serve you, the food is delivered from the truck’s open window. he sun glistens

“Guests know The Ritz-Carlton name and associate it with luxury,” says Sam Arnold, a cook for Ignite, the resort’s lobby lounge, who also cooks regularly for the food truck. “They’re excited to learn that we have a food truck that serves quality meals that aren’t fast food.”

Arnold was part of the culinary team that created the dozen or so menus for the truck, which change each year. Along with Andy Kalikas, the resort’s former executive assistant manager for food and beverage, the team took inspiration from Tucson, a city rich with Mexican culture, when deciding on dishes. Tacos were a given, but keeping luxury in mind they opted to include dishes that would make even the biggest foodies salivate. So they added inventive tacos like mahi-mahi topped with spicy slaw, cilantro, and honey mustard and spicy pork belly with kimchi, sweet chili, and a squirt of sriracha. Over time, the menus began reading like a Michelin-starred brick-and-mortar restaurant, with selections like puffed-rice salad with fried vermicelli, tamarind, cilantro chutney, tomatoes, onions, and Sam Arnold, a cook for Ignite, the resort’s lobby lounge, cooks regularly for the food truck and says his favorite dish is the buffalo tacos.

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potatoes—a kind of Indian street food—and Earl Grey tea and chocolate-ganache cake pops.

“The buffalo tacos are my favorite,” Arnold says. “It has every flavor in it—sweet, salty, and spicy—plus a nice crunch thanks to the lettuce.”

The idea for the truck stemmed from attending local farmers’ markets and seeing how popular food trucks were at these events.

It’s not uncommon for long lines to form as soon as these restaurants-on-four-wheels roll through. Seeing the trucks’ popularity, members of the culinary staff approached corporate about purchasing a truck. At the time, no other luxury resort in the United States owned one, so, as one can imagine, it took a little convincing to get the higher-ups to agree. After eventually getting approval, the next step was finding a truck fit for a company that has made a name for its fine dining while also keeping simplicity—one of the hallmarks of food trucks—in mind. In other words, they wanted to offer luxury to more than just the 1 percent.

“People don’t often associate luxury with a food truck,” Arnold says, “so we’re trying to change [their perceptions] by offering high-quality meals not served on fancy china. We want to keep things simple.”

Over time, the menus began reading like a Michelin-starred brickand-mortar restaurant.

W

hen i v isiteD The Ritz-Carlton Dove Mountain last fall, I had the chance to climb aboard the Roadrunner after hours, when hotel guests were off to dinner. As I scaled the truck’s metal steps, the first thing I noticed was how small it was on the inside. Although I’ve never worked professionally in a kitchen, it was hard to believe that chefs can maneuver in such tight quarters, especially with the grills ablaze and a line of hungry guests queued up at the window. And that’s all while I stood in a spotless, empty kitchen. I wondered what it would be like once it’s fully stocked with ingredients and cookware.

As I climbed back down, I asked Kalikas what he thought made the truck so popular and he had one word: “simplicity.” “People like simple stuff, but with a twist,” he adds. “Let me show you what I mean.”

He led me down a manicured path to Ignite, making a detour through the resort’s citrus grove. Much of the fruit had been picked for dinner service, where it will pop up in everything from desserts to Ignite’s signature cocktail, the Arizona Paloma, made with grapefruit-infused tequila, fresh-squeezed grapefruits, and a splash of tonic. (The food truck often uses the bounty to make agua frescas during the summer.)

The fact that the citrus for my Paloma came from a short walk away rather than a store made it all the more delicious. The grapefruit juice tasted sweeter and tarter than what I’m used to as a consumer. As I took another sip, I could see what Kalikas meant by simplicity. A cocktail made with the freshest ingredients didn’t

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Resort fare coming out of a food-truck window. Clockwise, from top left: Buffalo tacos; buffalo wings; buffalo burger with guacamole and Oaxacan cheese; fish and chips.

need the fanfare of exotic add-ons, rather, the fact that it was such a simple drink made me want another glass. No wonder the food truck has proven so popular with guests. The food is innovative and approachable at the same time.

The truck is most often used for corporate events, banquets, and even weddings, but on autumn weekends it’s parked outside Ignite for Tailgate Sunday football parties where it draws Marana residents and tourists alike. There it serves tailgate favorites with a twist, like Kobe beef Sonoran hot dogs, sliders, gooey chili-cheese fries, and smoked barbecue pork belly, which chef Arnold marinates in a dry rub of spices and mustard for 24 hours before cooking it in a smoker for four hours.

“The guests absolutely love the truck,” Arnold says. “They’ve been very receptive to it and are excited when they stay at the resort and get to try it.”

As I finish my cocktail, I can’t help but think that Dove Mountain is on to something with its food truck concept. In the time since its debut, several other luxury hotels around the nation have added food trucks to their culinary repertoire; it’s anyone’s guess how many more will follow suit. But with any trend, it’s important to be the first, and for that, The Ritz-Carlton Dove Mountain takes the crown. ✜ Ritz-Carlton Dove Mountain. 15000 N. Secret Springs Drive. 520.572.3000.

Jennifer Nalewicki grew up in Tucson but now calls Brooklyn home.

Her articles have appeared in The New York Times, Vegetarian Times, Wine Enthusiast, and Hemispheres.

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Weekly Nogales FRIDAYS 4-7 P.M. AT COURT R ST. RT ORLEY AVE. AVE. AV E & MORLEY

Restaurant & Bar

Only a short stroll across the Arizona border, nestled in the historic Casa Margot is La Roca.

Savor classic Sonoran cuisine made with produce from Northern Mexico’s fertile valleys, the freshest seafood from the Sea of Cortez, and choice beef from the foothills of the Sierra Madres.

Plutarco ElĂ­as Calles, Nogales, Sonora, Mexico T: (520) 313-6313 www.larocarestaurant.com

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The Modernist architectural heritage of this street is a regional asset.

On Broadway Boulevard between Euclid and Country Club (and within 3 blocks to the north and south), you will find premier shopping, dining, entertainment and services.

This two mile strip is lined with awardwinning boutiques and restaurants, as well as many neighborhood services you won’t find anywhere else.

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PROCESS

Organic Networking At Patagonia Orchards, Phil Ostrom and Sherry Luna are going beyond just distributing organic produce—they’re cultivating relationships to help balance ecosystems and nourish eaters.

By Eric Van Meter | Photography by Jeff Smith

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t was 1972. The year that “American Pie” spent four weeks at No. 1, Kodak introduced the Pocket Instamatic, and a U.S. gallon of gas cost 36 cents. Philip Ostrom, age 7 and defying a strict rule not to leave the yard, crossed a busy street, headed to the local hardware store, and got permission to pick up and take home whatever bulk seeds fell on the floor. Three months later, his Radio Flyer wagon piled high with his harvest of rutabagas, turnips, okra, and collards, Ostrom made his way around his Chapel Hill, North Carolina, neighborhood selling veggies door to door. It was his first foray into growing since toddling in his grandfather’s garden, his first pass at nourishing a community, and it stuck.

Forty-two years later, on one of Baja Arizona’s too-goodto-be-true November mornings, Ostrom shows me around the grown-up version of that little, red wagon. Patagonia Orchards is headquartered in Rio Rico, where Ostrom, his wife, Sherry Luna, and their staff of 15 clean, pack, and ship more than 10 million pounds of produce a year. The foods travel to them south from Maricopa and north from as far away as the Yucatán

Peninsula, a span of some 2,300 miles: pineapples from Oaxaca, limes from Veracruz, mangoes and hard squash from Sinaloa, plus plenty of Arizona edibles: apples, peaches and pears from Willcox, oranges from Gilbert, row vegetables from Tolleson— the list goes on and gets bigger every year.The vegetables are brought to a hulking beast of a machine that Ostrom and Luna cobbled together years ago with parts scavenged from other packing operations, customized to grab both the giant plastic bins used for produce grown stateside as well as the massive cardboard crates used in Mexico (new machines handle one or the other but not both). Belts turn to bathe grapefruits and lemons, give them a quick spray of natural wax to seal in freshness, sanitize them under infrared light, and then separate them into batches to be shipped across Arizona, to a handful of other states, and as far north as Canada.

Patagonia Orchards owner Phil Ostrom started selling vegetables door to door when he was only 7 years old; since then, his business has expanded just a bit.

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a Patagonia Orchards zucchini or bell pepper organic is like saying Aretha Franklin can sing. “The certification isn’t set up so that you have a nutritionally outstanding fruit or vegetable when the crop’s finally harvested,” Ostrom says. “That’s up to the grower. A lot of people fall down on the minerals because they’re not going to always have a flavor dividend. It’s more a question of, are you willing to invest in the soil so the consumer has something that they may not even taste but that their body’s going to know as a different level of nutrition?” For Ostrom and his partners, the answer is a no-hesitation “Yes.” Because what he’s really always cultivated are relationships with like-minded people passionate about foods, places, and all the living things that call them home.

“If you had 90 days to travel around and meet our farmers,” he tells me, “what I think you’d see is just a real excitement and enthusiasm for working in an ecosystem that’s balanced—where they can feel good that they’re seeing healthier and healthier systems supporting their organizations year after year, including the wildlife systems that coexist with them.”

Ostrom and the farmers he partners with see the fields they till as part of, not separate from, the lands and waters around them. It’s one reason Patagonia Orchards supports groups like Pronatura Noroeste, a regional chapter of Mexico’s National Pronatura System, which is working to reduce chemical runoff around Huatabampo’s agricultural operations on the southern end of Sonora. Note that “support” in this instance doesn’t mean just sending off a periodic check.

Ostrom and Luna describe trips to the region to learn about the cultures of those communities, sometimes bringing as many as 40 staff members, spouses, and kids (including the couple’s own, Kali and Rowan). “We did kayak tours into the estuaries so they could see the difference in the health of the mangroves.

It enlightens everyone on our staff about what it takes to grow organically and the people it takes to make that happen.” imply calling

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another crop that Patagonia Orchards sows. They educate farmers about effective microorganism (“EM”) technology as an alternative to pesticides and herbicides. They help growers implement better food safety practices and turn them onto environmentally friendly cleaners.

They help them plan their crops, forecasting what foods will be in high demand but also nurture the land. All these changes can be scary for small and vulnerable operations, but Patagonia Orchards also puts its money where its mouth is, underwriting the evolution of their partners, paying for harvests in advance, and sharing the profits when they come.

That holistic investment is what makes Patagonia Orchards an exemplar of how food systems can and should work, but when asked—no, badgered—about where that social consciousness comes from, Ostrom and Luna all but shrug it off. “It’s always just been part of what we do,” Luna says. “The people that we’ve partnered with and worked with—we’ve always paid them better wages, we’ve given them vacations—even when we had our sprout company, we paid better than minimum wage.”

More on that sprout company in a minute. First, a little more about what’s behind that Patagonia Orchards label, beyond higher wages. Employees get an arm-long list of benefits ranging from healthcare insurance and coverage for naturopathic care to retirement programs, year-round work with lots of time off (both rarities in their world), free massages, and profit-sharing. Dianna Rodriguez, accounting coordinator and grower liaison, and Sherrie Yanez, sales manager, both industry veterans, described working at Patagonia as like a second home and a world apart from working in conventional produce. Alberto Romero, Patagonia Orchards’ operations and food safety manager, came to work with the company when an employee described Ostrom as the best boss he’d ever had.

As for that sprout company? It was the couple’s answer to the question: “What do you do when you’re moving to Calinlightenment is

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Clockwise from bottom left: Incoming limes are given a quick water bath, sanitized under infrared light, and sorted

fornia but break down in Prescott, Arizona, and don’t have money for repairs?” Find a place to spend the winter and turn your RV into a greenhouse, of course. That was in the ’80s, when sprouts were kind of a big deal and Ostrom and Luna were in their 20s. Arizona became their oyster.

They bought “old, cantankerous” trucks. They bonded with people who raised chickens and milked goats and baked organic bread. Then they drove all around the state to pick up those goods, deliver them to equally starry-eyed dreamers with tiny retail operations, a kind of wholesale farmers’ market roadshow before the USDA even had an “organic” designation.

Those were hard years of 24-hour days and many an engine burnt up on the inclines of Black Canyon Highway, an eking by that would have driven most to put away their milk crates and shoehorn themselves into cozy desk jobs. Not Ostrom and Luna.

In fact, in a way, Patagonia Orchards is gearing up to return to those roots.

The company is launching another delivery service—this time to chefs and restaurants in Tucson and Phoenix to bring them organic, Arizona-grown and wild-crafted foods from nuts to nopales.

In 2015, they’ll begin supplying grocers with grass-finished beef from Arizona and sustainable seafood from the Sea of Cortez, and they’ve just introduced Arizona-grown,

Simply calling a Patagonia Orchards zucchini or bell pepper organic is like saying Aretha Franklin can sing.

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It’s like apples and oranges, and lemons and limes, too.

All the produce that leaves the warehouses bears the Patagonia Orchards organic seal of approval.

slow-pressed apple cider, Sonoran-grown unsweetened limeade, and a handful of other, all-natural juices pasteurized with UV to preserve their living enzymes. Of course, the UV process is slower than heat and the equipment costs more, but that investment isn’t surprising. After all, this is the guy who wanted to raise all-natural hogs but couldn’t find feed grown without pesticides and so grew his own, but still—20 plus years of one learning curve after another?

“I think it’s just a passion for foods—that and finding ways to nourish others,” says Ostrom, handing me a small, firm apple.

It’s a Sundowner, pink in places, still almost green in others. It’s

a variety Ostrom selected for me when I described what I love in an apple, and his choice is spot on: crisp and sweet but not too sugary, crunchy with a good amount of acid. I have another on the drive home and some tangy, salty Patagonia Orchards kale chips. In the back seat is a big box of lemons and limes, grapefruit, squash, peppers, ginger, and lots and lots of apples. I feel nourished. He’s done it again. ✜ Patagonia Orchards. 4 Ojo Court, Rio Rico. 520.671.8970.

Eric Van Meter loves good food, good people, and a good, hard rain. He’s called Tucson home all his 44 years.

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Bisbee,Arizona An unusual art town built in a deep canyon...

THINGS TO DO THIS NEW YEAR IN BISBEE ● Second Saturdays, 5-8pm – Bisbee After 5 ArtWalk - Discover Bisbee’s Vibrant Art Scene. Over 35 galleries and shops open - Jan. 10th - “Start with Art” - Feb. 14th - “HeARTS and Flowers” ● Every Saturday, 9am-1pm – Bisbee Farmers Market in Warren’s Vista Park ● Jan. 9th-18th - Bisbee Obscure Productions presents Death by Design by Rob Urbinati at Central School - Fridays and Saturdays at 7:30, Sundays at 3pm ● Jan. 13th - ART TANK at Star Studios in Lowell, 7pm - Free to the public ● Feb. 14th - Friends of the Copper Queen Library present the 24th Annual Chocolate Tasting at Central School - 6-9pm ● March 6th-8th - Bisbee Obscure Productions presents Bisbee Women’s Revue at Central School - Fridays and Saturdays at 7:30, Sundays at 3pm

s t a y

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Historic photos courtesy of the Bisbee Mining & Historical Museum

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EXPLORE

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BISBEE

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eat & drink in bisbee

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eat & drink in bisbee

Historic photos courtesy of the Bisbee Mining & Historical Museum

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TABLE

A Taste of Bisbee Café Roka turns 22 years old this month, standing the test of time in a town that seems timeless.

By Vanessa Barchfield | Paintings by Gretchen Baer

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n 1992, w hen owners Rod Kass and Sally Holcomb first opened the doors of Café Roka on Bisbee’s Main Street, the town was just beginning to recover from of the loss of the mining industry that nearly drove it to extinction.

Holcomb, a fifth-generation Bisbeean, was in high school when the copper mines closed in the ’70s. “It was a sad and turbulent time,” she says. Almost everyone in the town was involved either directly or peripherally with the mines. “A lot of people left. Houses and buildings were abandoned. There was talk at one point about Bisbee being listed as a ghost town.”

She spent most of the ’80s away, too, eventually ending up in Phoenix for graduate school. To support herself she took a job at the Registry Resort in Scottsdale. (“It doesn’t exist anymore,” she says. Clearly not everything in this tale is timeless.)

Rod Kass grew up in Denver—restaurants had intrigued him since he was a kid. “I loved going to diners with open kitchens, like a Waffle House, and watching how they worked.” His first job was at McDonald’s. In his 20s, Kass got more serious about food and considered going to culinary school, but his options were limited. “At the time if you wanted to go to school you had to go to New York or San Francisco—” “—or Europe,” Holcomb says. They’re one of those couples that complete many of each other’s sentences.

Back to Kass: “So I took the old path and did an apprenticeship program at a resort.” At the Registry Resort, that is, where he met Holcomb. They were friendly, but not close. By the late ’80s, Kass and his brother, who worked a corporate job in Phoenix, were considering a move to San Diego, since they both wanted to be close to the water.

One day, he got a call from a friend of his named Rosita, asking if he would be interested in spending a summer in Bisbee.

Holcomb had since quit her job at the resort and returned home to work on a project to revitalize downtown Bisbee. One day, her mom, who owned a local restaurant called the Courtyard—which has since closed—asked her if she knew anyone who’d be a good manager.

“And Rod’s name come up,” she says. “I knew he was really talented and very creative. So I put the feelers out—what had happened to Rod? A mutual friend put us back in touch.”

Enter Rosita.

Not long after her call, Kass arrived in Bisbee.

“It was kind of a summer adventure for me to come down here,” he says.

But he ended up liking Bisbee—a lot. He lived in an apartment in the Pythian Castle, one of the town’s iconic old buildings. “It felt like you were in the middle of old New York or old San Francisco—going 75 years back in time,” he says.

Kass worked at the Courtyard only for a few months, but other developments convinced him to stay in Bisbee. “Sally and I weren’t together when I came here. But during that summer it evolved into more than just a friendship,” he says. “We became a couple. And at that time I decided to stay but I had to figure out how to make a living.”

So he took a job doing food service at the local prison. “Really it didn’t have much to do with food—I was just a glorified guard in the kitchen. The inmates actually did the cooking,” he says. “They had four spices to work with and were always trying to get me to smuggle more in for them.”

While it wasn’t the highlight of his culinary career, Kass managed to share some of his expertise with the inmates.

“I hated seeing food go to waste so I said, ‘We have this left Fred Miller has manned the bar at Café Roka for 21 years.

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You can find owner Rod Kass cooking in the kitchen almost every night Café Roka is open.

over—let’s combine it with this over here and we can make it into a salad.’ The inmates in the kitchen were doing things they hadn’t done in the past, and the general population appreciated these different combinations of flavors.”

The story goes that they appreciated it so much that when Kass left the prison after a few months, the inmates protested

his departure with a hunger strike. “I think it only lasted a day,” Kass says, smiling.

He worked a few other jobs, including in a bakery where he introduced sandwiches and flatbread pizzas to the menu.

He’d deliver his food around Bisbee and got to know almost everyone in town.

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The storefront of Café Roka beckons Bisbeans into its warmth.

Eventually he took over the tiny kitchen at the Wine Gallery in downtown. The restaurant only had 20 tables, but after Kass started cooking there, it became wildly popular. “People kept coming and coming. We didn’t take reservations and so lines would wrap around the corner of the street,” says Holcomb, who worked as a hostess.

“We really realized that people wanted what we were doing.”

Back in those days Kass would buy cooking wine from the nearby Tavern Bar. He became close with the owner, a guy called Eddie, whom Kass describes as one of the sweetest people he’s ever met. The Tavern Bar was a Bisbee institution. “It was kind of along the lines of St. Elmo’s,” he says. “It was a working man’s bar where you could get a beer and a shot for a buck.”

During one of their visits at the bar, Kass mentioned to Eddie that he wanted to buy a building where he could finally start a restaurant of his own.

“And he said, ‘I’ve been trying to sell the bar for a long time.’

He had a lot of folks approach him. But he’d seen so many people come in and buy properties and sell them for a big profit, then leave. He wanted to make sure that whoever got the bar and the building was truly committed to the community.”

Eddie didn’t have to look much further. “Our business model has always been community first,” says Holcomb, who serves on a number of boards around town.

After the sale closed, they gutted the building while saving as many of the historic elements as possible. And in January 1993, the Tavern Bar reopened—as Café Roka.

Today Café Roka is much the same as it was back then. Diners are served four courses: a soup, a salad, and a palate-cleansing sorbet before their main. Kass, who was a vegan for many years, strives not just for taste but also for quality. He wants his meals to nourish.

“We were doing slow food before there was even a name for it,” Holcomb says.

“Our philosophy hasn’t changed, but the culinary culture has caught up to us,” Kass continues.

They source as much of their food from nearby as they can.

The sprouts and, when available, greens come from a grower in Patagonia named Michael; Margaret, a Cordon Bleu-trained chef, supplies their olives. They feature bread from the Bisbee-based Guadalupe Baking Company whenever Juliette Beaumont, the owner, can send enough over.

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A rack of lamb is among Café Roka’s classic menu items.

Kass is a nimble chef and tweaks his menu based on what’s available. “We really want to support the local farming that’s going on here,” he says. But with Café Roka’s volume—it’s packed nearly every night—they can’t depend solely on local sourcing.

Regardless of what ingredients Kass and his team have at their disposal, the menu at Café Roka always shines. Most mains come covered with rich sauces that have simmered through the day, like lobster Ravioli tossed in a saffron cream sauce and crowned with shrimp, or crispy white corn and pine nut risotto cakes accompanied by roasted veggies and a red curry and coconut sauce.

Some items on the menu never change, no matter what season it is; they’ve served the artichoke and portobello mushroom lasagna, for example, since the early days.

The couple beams when they talk about their local wine list.

They have featured Arizona wines since the fledgling days of the local industry. But now they have a dedicated Arizona list.

“We’re specifically focusing on grapes that were grown in Santa Cruz and Cochise Counties,” Kass says. “There are a couple of exceptions but usually there’s a story behind those.”

There’s also a story behind Café Roka’s staff. Fred Miller has been manning the bar, a large island in the middle of the ground floor, for 21 years. He’s also a co-owner of the Copper City Inn. Raul Berrios, who works in the kitchen, started coming to Roka as a customer. He liked it so much he joined the staff—19 years ago. Gretchen Baer, a server who also works as an artist, is another long-term staff member. There are others too.

“Everyone who works here does something else in their other lives,” says Holcomb.

“It provides a different outlet. A social outlet. It’s a family,” says Kass.

People depend on Kass and Holcomb: their staff, the Bisbee community, and their customers who come from around the corner and across the state. But it’s clear that the dependence is mutual. The couple has built their lives around moving Bisbee into the future—and making sure that it tastes good at the same time. ✜ Café Roka. 35 Main St., Bisbee. 520.432.5153.

CafeRoka.com.

Vanessa Barchfield is a reporter and producer at Arizona Public Media.

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Discover

T u b a c, A r i z o n a Special events you will not want to miss...

Plein Air Painting in Historic Tubac - Jan. 26th - Jan. 30th 56th Annual Tubac Festival of the Arts - Feb. 4th - Feb. 8th The Big Band Express - Feb. 13th Spring ArtWalk - Explore the local working artist studios and fine art galleries - March 15th - March 16th

Stay in Tubac

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Dine in Tubac

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Explore Tubac In the courtyard next to 10 Plaza Road Tubac Arizona

USA Today Travel named Tubac 1 of 10 Best Places to Escape the Cold

mirage bird d Named Tubac 1 of 14 Up-and-Coming, Conde Nast&Traveler

The best permanent flowers, plants & succulents on the planet!

Must See Destinations in 2014

Ana Thompson, AzMF

(520)248-5039 www.mirageandbird.com

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A Gastronomy of Place

Reimagining Baja Arizona’s food future by peering into its past.

By Megan Kimble Photography by Jeff Smith

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horseback from Mexico to a Sobaipuri O’odham village called Schookshon—meaning “below the black hill”—he counted 750 people living in 186 houses. At San Xavier, 10 miles south, another 830 people subsisted on irrigated land.

In 1880, the photographer Carleton Watkins, standing exactly where we are now, captured a sepia image of Tucson at a pivotal moment in its history. The railroad arrived only months before Watkins took the photo, connecting Tucson to the rest of the country and its industrializing economy. But in the image, Tucson is still a small desert town, one defined by agriculture.

Parceled plots fill most of the frame. The ruins of the abandoned Mission San Agustín still stand, its walled gardens still being cultivated. Single-story adobe homes crowd downtown, spreading north and south along the river’s lush line.

Until the 1890s, the Santa Cruz was an active river, with annual floods that escaped its banks, leaving layers of sediment that built up “sort of like a layer cake,” says Mabry. In 2000, when archeologists dug below the surface of a city that had long since become disconnected from this primary source of water, “We found evidence of habitation preserved in every layer, going back 4,000 years,” says Mabry. “And we found evidence of agriculture going back 4,000 years.”

Tucson is a 4,000-year-old farming village overlaid by a 300-year-old cityscape. It is a small town rooted in its heritage; it is a city of a million that suffers from amnesia. The land west of downtown is some of the oldest continuously farmed land in North America; it is also the site of a massive mid-20th century landfill.

A community’s sense of its identity is not a thing that Jonathan Mabry, the historic preservation officer for the City of Tucson, suggested that developers at the settles, stagnant; identity is conMercado San Agustín align a street along what used to be a primary acequia, or irrigation canal. “And stantly created, and defining our it made the design of the development more interesting,” he says. regional gastronomic identity is a shifting, complicated objective. To some extent, what defines our foodshed has already ing development—beyond the flicker of downtown’s high rises, been decided—our rivers are dry, our soils arid, and our climate streets stretch toward the horizon of the Catalina and Rincon changing. Our state government is mostly ambivalent and ocMountains. The dry riverbed of the Santa Cruz is barely visicasionally antagonistic; our national government subsidizes a ble; today, the line that defines the landscape, the I-10 freeway, food system built on cheap calories. flows with cars, contoured by cement and commuters rather But these are circumstances out of our control. We eat here, than wind and water. The city gleams in the sunlight, made of in this place, and it is here that we have the opportunity to metal and glass, cement and air-conditioning units. The city’s redefine what we want Baja Arizona’s food future to look like. infrastructure seems inevitable. It seems enduring.

Mabry and I peer across the landscape. “What Tucson is And yet, this scene wasn’t always so. Tucson began as a now is such a recent thing,” he says. He doesn’t elaborate, but farming community that subsisted on a flowing river and irrigaI gather up implications. If that which sprawls before us is a retion canals. Three thousand years after the first farmers of the cent arrival, perhaps we can unwind it to discover in our history Sonoran Desert settled in the Santa Cruz River valley, when a more enduring future. missionary Father Eusebio Francisco Kino arrived in 1692 on ear the summit of Sentinel Peak, there are fist-size mortars in the bedrock—thousands of years ago, there would have also been wooden pestles, used to pound into flour the mesquite pods gathered from these hills. Hidden in the thin shade of palo verde trees are shards of pottery sculpted by Hohokam hands. Where the slope of the peak tumbles toward Tucson, buried under layers of packed earth, ancient irrigation canals—the oldest in North America—reveal themselves as buried channels.

“Tucson’s identity for more than 4,000 years was an irrigated agricultural oasis,” says Jonathan Mabry, the historic preservation officer for the City of Tucson, as he strides along the uneven path to the summit. “And it’s only been in the last century or so that this hasn’t been our identity.”

We pause at the top and survey the landscape below. It’s hard to see this identity, squinting into the glare of Tucson’s sprawl-

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2014 Present over past: Today, the view from the summit of Sentinel Peak reveals Tucson as a very different town. The Mission Garden, recreated after it was abandoned in the early 20th century, has reclaimed the foreground, but the Santa Cruz River remains a dry remnant of the past.

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1880 In 1880, the photographer Carleton Watkins climbed to the summit of Sentinel Peak with a mule and a camera, capturing Tucson at a pivotal moment in its history. Then, only months after the railroad had arrived, Tucson was still a town defined by agriculture.

Photo courtesy of the Arizona Historical Society.

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plucking a ripe quince, or membrillo, from a tree heavy with T hursday morning in October, at the base of Senfruit—the first of many trees Spanish missionaries brought as tinel Peak—commonly known as “A” Mountain—the cuttings in the years after Father Kino arrived. As Pfeuffer passNewcomers Club of Tucson gathers for a tour of the es around slivers of the fruit, he says, “Jesus Garcia, who started oldest continuously farmed land north of Mexico. We cluster in the Kino Heritage Fruit Trees Project, would say that, because front of the adobe wall bounding the east side of the four-acre these trees are grown from cuttings of the old trees, not from enclosed area known as the Mission Garden—I cluster with a seeds, you don’t get a hybrid fruit—you get a clone. So you’re dozen mid-60s, gray-haired women who have recently relocattasting the same taste Father Kino tasted.” ed or “entered into a new life stage.”

The Newcomers dub the taste that Father Kino brought as “Today’s Mission Garden is a re-creation of the gardens alternatively dry, bitter, sour, and sweet. once built to feed the people associated with the Mission, both Although the gardens are inthe Europeans and Natives,” says tended to mimic the Mission-era Roger Pfeuffer, who serves on the garden, because of global warmboard of Friends of Tucson’s Birthing, “the climate we’re in now is place, the nonprofit that founded not the climate that was then. So the Mission Garden. The purpose we have to adapt,” says Pfeuffer. “It of the garden, says Pfeuffer, is “to becomes not only a traditional garrespect the birthplace of Tucson.” den—it becomes an experimental The purpose is to preserve—seeds, garden.” trees, and, above all, land.

In the northwest corner, a sePfeuffer points to a gentle slope ries of four timeline garden beds edging the path into the walled embodies Tucson’s transformation garden. “That’s a landfill,” he says. from past to present. Chapalote The women of the Newcomers corn, Kitt Peak tepary beans, anClub gasp—a landfill on the site cestral cushaw squash, black seed of Tucson’s birthplace? Impossible. devil’s claw, and amaranth repre“They bulldozed this area in the sent the crops grown a thousand 1950s. There was a landfill all the years ago by Hohokam farmers. An way from Cushing Street to 22nd O’odham pre-contact garden reStreet. It was,” Pfeuffer says, “not veals rows of 60-day corn, Tohono the best part of Tucson’s history.”

O’odham pink beans, Ha:l squash, And so it remains, the legacy of lima beans, and brown tepary a landfill lingering long after the beans. Post-contact—post-1692— area came under the management the O’odham garden expands. of Pima County, the Rio Nuevo Suddenly, there is yellow-meated board, and, eventually, the Friends watermelon and Ke:li Ba:so melon, of Tucson’s Birthplace. sorghum and cowpeas—suddenly, As we walk along the retaining there are options. wall bounding the garden, Pfeuffer While the Mission Garden once bends down and plucks a shard Mission Garden community outreach manager Dena Cowan of pottery out of the amber mud. harvests crops on a fall Thursday morning to sell at the Santa fed the Presidio, the fortress that “We find these all the time,” he Cruz River Farmers’ Market later that day. protected Tucson from Apache raiders, today it serves as its own says, passing it around the group. kind of presidio—protecting Baja Arizona against monoculThe group filters into the garden, but I linger, considering the tures and the loss of plant and seed biodiversity. slope concealing two decades worth of Tucson’s garbage—the “We have always talked about the cultural diversity in Tucson artifacts that will reveal our history 4,000 years hence. as a good thing. One of the things you deal with in agriculture Inside the reconstructed adobe walls, Pfeuffer leads the is plant diversity,” says Pfeuffer. “And we’ve got a pretty serious group along a row of Kino Heritage quince trees, their pale thing happening worldwide with large seed companies creating green leaves bright against the gray sky. Beyond, there is a monocultures. In the spirit of preserving crop, seed, and plant shimmering row of Mexican sweet lime trees, drops of water diversity, I think the Mission Garden is a kind of local example still clinging to thick foliage. Last night’s rain left the soil soggy of what we can do to make sure we have a diversity of crops and and soft, the colors scrubbed raw. Curved garden beds boast enjoy that diversity.” thick tangles of melon and squash vines, scribbles of herbs, Pfeuffer, a former superintendent of Tucson Unified School splays of lettuce. The “A” of “A” Mountain peeks above adobe District, says that the reason he got involved in the Mission walls—walls that were reconstructed in 2008 based on the same Garden was to teach Tucson kids about their heritage. “Kids in image Watkins captured on its summit in 1880. town need to know about this,” he says. “We want to preserve “The purpose of the Mission Garden today is to bring to the history so it can be passed along. So we can keep preserving. So community a powerful sense of its past by presenting both the we don’t have to turn our history into a landfill.” past and also what could be done in the future,” says Pfeuffer, n a

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Clockwise, from top: At Mission Garden, dried sunflower seeds make for a healthy, native snack. Seedlings sneak toward the light in a newly planted garden bed. A variety of 60-day corn stands out from its stalk in vibrant orange. An array of volunteers help maintain the garden—including intern Julio Esquer, with the Goodwill Good Futures program. Next page, top right: Bob Sotomayor, the farm manager at the San Xavier Coop Farm, keeps an eye on growing seedlings in the farm’s new greenhouse.

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story, but the story requires history.

If people have lived here for thousands of years, then what their stories all have in common is the Santa Cruz River. (That is, except for today’s Tucson, surviving on the spine of a dry river.)

Spear points dating back 11,000 years show Clovis hunters traversing the valley looking for mammoths and other large mammals drinking at its banks. Five thousand years ago, hunter-gatherers returned to the river after a hot, dry spell had pushed them north and south, and planted maize introduced from Mexico. By 1200 B.C., farmers had built the earliest of those very irrigation canals that Mabry and his colleagues have uncovered, channeling river water to grow maize, squash, tobacco, beans, and cotton. The calendar turned; by A.D. 500, Hohokam culture was thriving in the Tucson Basin, reaching a population of 7,000 by A.D. 1300.

By the time Father Kino arrived in 1692, O’odham tribes— the Sobaipuri O’odham and Tohono O’odham—were living and farming in the Santa Cruz River valley. Some trace the origins of the O’odham to the ancient Hohokam culture, which declined around 1400; others say that the O’odham migrated from northwestern or western Mexico. Either way, it was the O’odham that Father Kino first encountered, and who remained in contact with the Europeans for centuries thereafter.

South of town and west of I-19, spread behind the San Xavier Mission—its whitewashed walls puncture the vivid blue sky—are fields of ha:l squash, yellow-meated watermelon, and 60-day corn. And, of course, alfalfa, the crop that keeps the San Xavier Coop Farm afloat. Bundles of hay nearly hide the entrance to a farm store that sells cholla buds, mesquite flour, and a kind of roasted corn known as ga’iwsa. his is not a history

“We grow alfalfa because that’s the cash crop,” says Julie Ramon-Pierson, a longtime board member of the Coop Farm.

“We grow alfalfa to support the traditional crops. And that was one of the visions of the farm, that we bring back the traditional crops.”

Today, nearly 20,000 Tohono O’odham live on three reservations in southern Arizona. Sitting in the heart of the 1,400-person San Xavier District, this 1,000-acre farm had been cultivated for centuries and cared for communally—that is, until 1887, when the U.S. government issued the Dawes act, allotting parcels of land to individual tribal members with the hope that they would splinter from the tribe and assimilate into American society. (Of San Xavier’s 71,000 acres, 41,000 are allotted, meaning they’re owned by individuals and families instead of by the Tohono O’odham Nation.)

But in 1971, after a century of parceled harvest, a thousand farmers came together and decided to lease 1,500 acres of their land to a cooperative that would manage farming operations communally. Today, 28 people—26 of whom are members of the Nation—manage the cooperative farm.

“The elders always talk about when the water was running in the Santa Cruz. The kind of farming they did, and the crops that they grew,” says Ramon-Pierson. “We want to provide those crops to the people so they can be a healthier people. And to use this land as a resource that is beneficial.”

But the farm still has to contend with a river that no longer flows—and an increasingly populated valley competing for scare groundwater resources. After the farm sued for rights to that groundwater, the Southern Arizona Water Rights Settlement Act of 1982 extended the Central Arizona Project canal to bring northern water to a farm that once survived on the floods of a river that flowed from the south.

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unteer teacher at the center. “Before they arrived, the people 1862, when Union soldiers arrived to survey Tucson’s living in Tucson weren’t really growing that many vegetables.” fields, the property lines they drew aligned with irrigation They had squash, corn, and beans, of course, but not string canals dug centuries before. “This means it was still funcbeans, snow peas, or bok choy. “The foods that people had to tioning as a traditional Sonoran irrigated agricultural system,” choose from in Tucson grew exponentially because of the Chisays Mabry. nese farmers that farmed along the Santa Cruz River.”

The canals were common property; a común de agua, an Eventually, competition for increasingly scarce water drove irrigation community, was managed by an elected zanjero, or the Chinese into the city center, where they opened and ran overseer, who ensured that the water was shared equitably. “But corner grocery stores. Meyer Avenue is maybe a half-mile long, then Anglos arrived and started buying up property along the says Tom, “but it had four or five different stores on it. Each river,” says Mabry. “They claimed that water laws of the eastern store would have the basics, but then specialize.” (Many TohoU.S. should apply here. They bought up the oldest fields with no O’odham farmers on the reservation sold produce and eggs the priority use rights. The rest of the farmers challenged it, to the Chinese grocers.) but in 1885, a court ruled in favor of the Anglos. It was the By the 1960s, there were 80 Chinese grocers in Tucson’s beginning of the end of the traditional system.” downtown core. “We The arrival of the all grew up in a grorailroad in 1880 also cery store,” says Patsy signaled the beginning of Lee, a board member Tucson’s transformation who runs the senior from an integrated Hisprogram at the Chinese panic, Native American, Cultural Center—in and Anglo frontier comher case, it was Allen munity whose residents Market in Barrio Holintermarried and shared lywood, where she still neighborhoods, business lives. “Your home was ventures, and schools, attached to a grocery into an increasingly segstore. That’s how I regated population. know Tucson—through Besides Anglos, the the grocery stores.” largest group to arrive to Because the Chinese Tucson in the 1800s were markets serviced mostly Chinese immigrants, Hispanic customers, who settled on the fields many grocers—includspread along the base of ing Lee’s mother— “A” Mountain. Leasing spoke only Cantonese their land from Mexiand Spanish. “In the can landowners, these 1950s, all my friend’s Chinese farmers started parents worked in the growing fruits and vegemines. We knew they’d tables the likes of which Nancy and Richard Fe Tom helped raise funds for the new Chinese Cultural Center pay as soon as payday Tucsonans had never building; Tom’s firm, The Architecture Company, designed it. came around, so they seen—strawberries and got credit. The Hispanic people needed us as much as we needcauliflower, broccoli and lettuce, bok choy and bitter melon. ed them,” she says.

“Most of the Chinese that came over here were farmers, so Posters depicting the numerous grocery stores dot the culthey would naturally put their skills in that areas,” says Richard tural center’s lobby, part of a study of Tucson’s Chinese grocers Fe Tom, an architect and the former president of the Tucson organized by Lee—many of those grocery store owners are now Chinese Cultural Center. Many early immigrants came from a in the center’s cafeteria playing mahjong, she says. “So it wasn’t place called Taishan, which has a similar climate to Tucson, he hard to get that information.” says, “so a lot of the vegetables they grew there were adaptable If one mission of the Chinese Cultural Center is to preserve to here.” and celebrate Chinese culture, “the other component is to inThe Chinese Cultural Center looms, regally, over its quiet troduce our culture to the rest of the community,” says Nancy. stretch of River Road. “We think of it as a ship in the desert,” Since the center opened a decade ago, “We’ve had events with says Tom—he’s the architect who designed the building to look all the different ethnicities here,” she says. “We’ve worked with like one, with a foyer that juts into the parking lot like the bow the black community. The Pascua Yaqui want to do something of a boat. Thursdays are senior days, so mahjong players fill the with us. It’s neat—we’ll have an event here and you get to see cafeteria, the quiet click of tiles the only sound in the echoing kids of all different cultures running around, chasing each other. room.

“We want to show that Tucson is a multicultural town. That, “I think that’s the biggest contribution the Chinese made to actually, that is our town’s treasure.”

Tucson’s agriculture,” says Nancy Tom, Tom’s wife and a voln

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fith. “But by drawing attention to it, putting a frame around it, im G r iffith sits at a table in Jim’s Room in Little Mexico we’re making it easier for the community that has it to keep on Restaurant—“They’ve got the best chorizo in town,” he doing it.” says. The wooden plaque bearing his name hangs below Alvarez and Griffith are quick to admit that Tucson Meet a shelf displaying four of his books—the small shrine to the Yourself is a performance. “The world isn’t like that. You don’t cultural folklorist is “the best compliment I ever got,” he says. dance on the street with a stranger while eating a Filipino egg In 1974, Griffith, a retired University of Arizona anthropolroll,” says Alvarez. “We’re all busy, and we’re all busy in the ogist, says that he “realized there was a lot of beauty being cremainstream.” ated within the small communities that make up Tucson. And The purpose of Tucson Meet Yourself is, then, is to force that this beauty was not really available, easily, to the communius to examine what could be. To ask us to see what remains in ty as a whole. Forty years ago, we were a lot more fragmented the corners of our culture, hidden from mass-market influence. than we are now. People just didn’t know about each other.”

When I ask Griffith why local culture matters to him, he So he started a festival—a two-day celebration in downtown looks at me like I’ve just Tucson where people asked him how to peel could meet their neigha banana. “I’d go crazy bors in a comfortable, if I lived in a totally neutral space. “Jim mass world. A world chose the center of where everywhere I town for a reason,” says go, I couldn’t tell I was Maribel Alvarez, an ananywhere different from thropology professor at where I’d been. People the UA and the current feel pretty strongly director of Tucson Meet about who they are Yourself. “It’s always and where they are and been in the civic space. where they come from.”

In downtown TucAnd yet, in Pima son—which had already County, every year, one experienced its downout of three people lived fall, its blight—you’d somewhere else five have Yaquis, O’odham, years before—myself African-Americans, included. Creating a duAsians of all sorts, white rable local food identity ethnics. That was a big in a mass-market culture political statement.” is an uphill endeavor. It Over the past four requires that people put decades, the festival has down roots—that new transformed from a relfarmers plant seeds; that atively contained affair, chefs recreate menus; with 30 vendors and that entrepreneurs performers, to a sprawlpursue new endeavors ing, three-day festival in food and that custhat brings 100,000 tomers support them. It people to downtown to requires investment and peruse more than 100 innovation, not simply vendors, community groups, and exhibitions.

Jim Griffith says that being honored with a room at Little Mexico Restaurant tradition.

“It is possible to live More than half of the was the “best compliment he ever got.” in Tucson and not know food sold at Tucson where you are, but a lot of people are working to make that difMeet Yourself is available at no other time of year, as nonprofits ficult,” says Griffith. What sets Tucson apart from other cities and community groups dream up dishes specifically to sell at in the Southwest—other cities in the United States, even—is the festival. (Dishes like the Chinese Cultural Center’s Chinese perhaps the same stubbornness that allowed people to persevere hot dog—a decadent spin on the Sonoran, smothered in slowhere for 4,000 years. “There are a lot of things in Tucson that cooked, sweet pulled pork. “That,” says Griffith, “is Tucson.”) have been started by one or two people, simply because they The point of Tucson Meet Yourself is to celebrate our town’s thought it was what they should do. They didn’t wait around for folklife. “I was interviewed by a Chicano TV station years ago approval, for grants,” says Griffith. “The answer boils down to and the reporter said, ‘What is folklife?’” says Griffith. “I said, the people. We’ve got exciting, excited people, and we’re small ‘its stories about El Tijano, La Llorena, making tamales at enough that one person’s vision can make a difference in the Christmas.’ And she said, ‘Oh that old stuff?’ community.”

“Folklife, within its community, is ‘that old stuff,’” says Grif-

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In our desert climate, the future of food depends on the future of the water that comes our way.

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can influence a community, it’s also true that a community’s vision can influence our identity.

“Tucson was built as a little farming community,” says Mayor Jonathan Rothschild. “When you look at this as a place where cultures came together, Native American, Spanish, European, Asian, and the history, the length of time of which farming was in this valley—what’s important now is the preservation of that history and carrying it forward into how you deliver food to people who need it, how you connect people through food with their societies, and how we make people self-sustaining with food.”

If the Santa Cruz River once ran dry because of the city’s non-existent plan for water management, city leaders today are actively engaged in management plans. In October, Mayor Rothschild and Phoenix Mayor Greg Stanton announced a water sharing agreement that would divert Phoenix’s share of Colorado River water to Tucson for storage in exchange for credits. “We’re getting the water and we’re giving them our credit. So we’ll have the water in advance. It’s a pretty historic deal,” says Rothschild. “It’s an example of cities working together ... to conserve the water supply and make the best use out of it.”

What constitutes the best use of our water is a question that’s yet to be answered. There are still cotton fields in Marana, still thirsty pecan groves in Green Valley, and flood-irrigated fields f one ’ s person v ision

in Willcox. And as history has shown, what we decide to do with our water will play a large part in determining whether or not we’ll have enough local food to build an identity upon.

But so, too, will our ability to innovate based on what we have. “We’ve done a lot to incentivize and promote water conservation techniques, whether it’s water harvesting, gray water, or low-flow toilets,” says Rothschild. “And we’re working with the county and the university to work on water delivery and reclamation technologies so we can use that water for our agriculture.”

At the San Xavier Coop Farm, the farm manager, Bob Sotomayor, isn’t afraid of change. Although one mission of the farm is to reintroduce traditional crops into the tribe’s diets, another is simply to grow good produce. Sotomayor grows some vegetable hybrids—careful always to avoid cross-pollination with heirloom crops. “We feel free to investigate newer kinds of crops—kale, cabbage, cauliflower, broccoli,” he says. “And we can do that without risking the crops that people hold dear.”

In addition to cultivating newer varieties, “technology has arrived,” Sotomayor says, gesturing at two greenhouses sprouting in front of a field full of row crops. “Up until maybe five years ago, everything was done the traditional way to grow traditional crops. Now, technology enhances the production of traditional crops.”

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At the San Xavier Coop Farm, dried cholla buds, left, and roasted dried corn, right, known as ga’iwsa, serve as a reminder of the region’s heritage.

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of Sentinel Peak, on a warm fall day, Mabry holds a printout of Watkin’s yellowed photograph up against the vivid present. Only after he points it out can I make out the thin line of rail cars that bisects the photo’s adobe-spackled landscape. Much easier to discern in the crinkled photo is the glint of an irrigation canal connecting the Mission to the Santa Cruz River. I squint into the growing heat and imagine a sinuous, sparkling river edged by lush greenery, my desire for shade growing palpable.

“We’re working to replant the mesquite bosque that grew along the Santa Cruz River in this area,” says Mabry, gesturing to a hypothetical grove below. He’s working with the City of Tucson, Pima County, and the Rio Nuevo board to use reclaimed water and passive water harvesting to re-establish an authentic mesquite bosque from Starr Pass to Congress Street. If a bond measure passes in 2017, they could restore the riparian habitat, plant an edible urban forest, and connect Mission Garden back to the river.

I can imagine the lushness, the shade, the glittering coolness.

“What people have done for 4,000 years is to adapt this place, using the natural surroundings, to turn it into a place they want to live,” Mabry says.

We move and must root anew; we build new homes and plant old seeds. Chinese farmers from Taishan brought seeds sewn into pockets; they planted gardens that brimmed with bok choy, bitter melon, and jujube trees. Missionaries displaced in the New World wrote home asking for cuttings from the Old— confronted with a spiny, desiccated desert, they built oases of ack on the summit

pomegranate, quince, and fig. Tohono O’odham farmers revive the seeds of their ancestors and harvest the heirlooms of their elders. Immigrants sell gyros or perogies out of floppy cardboard containers at a food festival; year after year, they settle into this place. They expand and profit and then, suddenly, they are rooted.

Tucson was once an interdependent community, one where neighbors relied on neighbors for credit, recipes, and vegetables; where farmers relied on the river and the community on its farmers.

The town we are today is not the town we have always been, nor will it remain as it is today. We were once a town based on agriculture, one whose cuisine reflected a convergence of cultures. And much of that convergence still remains—in spite of Speedway Boulevard, supermarkets, and strip malls, Tucson is still a town with a rich and identifiable food culture.

But we will have to decide how to maintain that identity—to protect and build it. To support and sustain the people who grow and make our food, and the culture that surrounds its consumption. And one way to do that might be simply to figure out how to combine the view from 1880 with that of 2015—how to overlay a sepia photo over a vibrant present, applying the lessons from the past to the innovations of the future. Perhaps past is really prologue when we imagine Tucson as a desert city where residents realize that their food future depends on recapturing and reinventing an oft-forgotten past. ✜ Megan Kimble is the managing editor of Edible Baja Arizona.

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RECIPE

Ark of Taste Illustrations by Robert J. Long

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he a r k of t aste , a vision of the Slow Food Foundation for Biodiversity, is a celebration and living catalog of regionally distinctive foods facing extinction. These place-based and artisanal quality nominations represent an extraordinary heritage of fruits, vegetables, animal breeds, cheeses, breads, sweets, and cured meats from cultures around the world.

Each nomination must be rare or endangered, regionally or his-

torically unique, sustainably produced or harvested, and have distinctive flavor, texture and culinary uses. In Baja Arizona, a remarkable diversity of desert specialties are included; of the 1,700 products from 50 countries included on the Ark of Taste—174 in the United States—12 come from southern Arizona alone. We asked five Baja Arizona chefs to create a recipe inspired by one of these ingredients.

Brown and White Tepary Bean

Tepary Bean Cassoulet Doug Levy, Feast

3 ½ ½ ½ 3 1½ 1½ 6 1½ 1

cups brown tepary beans, soaked in enough water to cover, overnight cup small diced onion cup small diced celery cup small diced carrots tablespoon duck fat (you can substitute lard or butter) teaspoon decaf espresso grounds teaspoon cocoa powder cups veal stock (you can substitute chicken or vegetable stock) tablespoon brown sugar teaspoon ancho chili powder salt and pepper to taste

Sauté beans and vegetables in duck fat until they begin to soften. Add hot stock, cocoa, sugar, ancho chili powder, and coffee, and simmer until beans are soft. Season to taste.

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Green-Striped Cashew Squash

Calabaza con Queso Diana Teran, Mexico in Season

1 2 1 1 6 4 1 4

calabaza, cut into ¼ inch pieces large tomatoes, diced large onion, diced pound roasted peppers (Anaheim, poblano), diced ounces shredded cheese ounces cream cheese, cut into cubes tablespoon salt precooked ears of corn on the cob, sliced into 4 pieces each; or 6 ounces of corn kernels

Slice calabaza lengthwise and roast in a 350˚ oven for 30 minutes. Peel skin and cut in to ¼ inch pieces. Dice tomatoes, onions, and peppers.

Heat a large pot to medium heat, add all the vegetables, and salt; cover for 15 minutes. Stir occasionally. After 15 minutes of cooking, add the cheese, cream cheese, and corn. Set heat to low and let cook for an additional 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. Turn off and remove from heat and let sit for about 5 minutes. Makes 6 servings.

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Mesquite-Pod Flour

Cauliflower & Mushroom Mesquite Tart Sally Kane, The Coronet

For crust: 100 50 5 100 50 ⅛

grams mesquite flour grams all-purpose flour grams granulated sugar pinch of kosher salt grams cold butter, diced grams cold heavy cream teaspoon ground juniper (optional)

Filling: 1 3 1

8 2 ½ ¼ 2 ¼ ⅓ ¼

medium onion, chopped cloves garlic, sliced thin medium head cauliflower, broken into florets, stems chopped into bite size pieces ounces beech mushrooms, broken up into individual stems sprigs fresh thyme (reserve one sprig for topping) cup grape tomatoes, halved lengthwise cup olive oil, plus 1 tablespoon teaspoons salt, divided teaspoon turmeric cup soft goat cheese cup buttermilk fresh-cracked pepper, to taste

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Mix dry ingredients in a chilled bowl. Cut in butter using a pastry blender or fork until pea-size meal forms. Add cold cream and mix until the dough holds together. Do not over-mix.

Refrigerate for 30 minutes to relax the gluten and chill the butter before rolling. Sprinkle table with flour.

Roll out dough to roughly the dimensions of tart pan, stopping to flour as necessary to prevent sticking to rolling pin. Place dough in tart pan and push with fingertips to mold into pan. Bake for 15 minutes. Set aside.

Toss cauliflower pieces, mushrooms, and tomatoes in the olive oil and 1 teaspoon salt. Spread on two baking sheets and top with separated stems from one sprig of thyme. Roast in oven for 20 minutes or until cauliflower is browned on the edges.

(Reserve all the tomatoes and ¼ each of cauliflower and mushrooms for the topping of tart.)

In the meantime, sauté onions and garlic on medium heat for about 15 minutes, or until they are lightly browned. Place in food processor along with the remaining cauliflower and mushrooms as well as the salt, goat cheese, and buttermilk. Pulse until just combined; consistency should be chunky.

Fill the tart shell and decoratively top with the reserved tomatoes, cauliflower florets, and mushrooms. Remove leaves from thyme sprig and sprinkle over all. Bake in oven for 20 minutes.

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Chapalote Corn

Pork Rib Posole Rojo with Chapalote Hominy Greg LaPrad, Overland Trout

Chapalote Corn Hominy: Boil 2 quarts of dried chapalote corn with 2 ounces of lye in enamel pot for 15 minutes.

Cool the corn in the lye liquid overnight. The next morning vigorously rinse the corn under fresh water, discarding the lye mixture. The goal is to remove most of the outer hull of the corn.

This process is known as nixtamalization. The finished corn is now ready to become hominy. Take the nixtamal chapalote corn and return it to a pot of fresh water. Simmer for 2-3 hours until the nixtamal becomes tender, less starchy, “pops” open. The finished chapalote hominy is now ready to add to the posole.

Pork Rib Posole Rojo: 3 4 1 1 1 1 2 2 1 5 3 2-3

quarts pork broth pounds country style pork ribs teaspoon dried Mexican oregano teaspoon dried crushed chiltepin peppers teaspoon ground cumin teaspoon ground coriander ounces dried California red chiles ounces dried ancho chiles large white onion, diced garlic cloves, sliced Salt, to taste tablespoons olive oil quarts of fresh chapalote hominy

Boil ribs in water until meat is tender and falling off the bone. Reserve liquid for pork broth. Clean the chiles, removing the stems and seeds. In a hot cast-iron skillet, soften the chiles on each side for about 1 minute. Place all the chiles in a saucepan, cover with hot water, and soak for 1 hour. Create a red sauce by blending the onion, garlic, olive oil, and chiles. Season to taste. Strain the sauce.

In a large roasting pan or rondo, combine pork broth, chili sauce, and spices. Add the meat from the ribs, and prepared chapalote hominy. Simmer for at least 1 hour, adjust salt, and serve with corn tortillas, fresh onion, cilantro, avocado, and your favorite hot sauce.

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Cholla Bud

Cholla Bud, Green Bean, Mushroom, and Verdologas Salad with Queso Fresco and Pumpkin Seeds

Cholla buds: 1½ 12

cups dried cholla buds cups water

Place the cholla buds and water into 6-quart pressure cooker over high heat until regulator starts to rock. Adjust heat down so that regulator rocks evenly and gently. Cook 20 minutes then remove from heat, cool until air vent or cover lock has dropped. Remove and drain the cholla buds. To store for a longer period of time, pickle cholla buds. Makes 6 cups.

Janos Wilder, Downtown Kitchen + Cocktails

Salad: 8 8

8 6 2-3

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Jalapeño Orange Vinaigrette:

are one of the food treasures the Sonoran Desert provides in the spring. Like much that comes from the desert, their pleasures don’t yield without some effort. To fully appreciate, you may enjoy the process of harvesting, removing their stickers, drying, and reconstituting. They are wonderful freshly harvested and processed, but either the fresh or reconstituted cholla buds work well here. hoLLa

Buds

1 3 ½ 2 ½ 6

jalapeño, seeded & chopped ounces scallions chopped bunch cilantro oz. orange juice concentrate teaspoon fresh crushed garlic oz. olive oil Salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste

In a blender, puree the jalapeño, scallions, garlic, cilantro, and orange juice concentrate until very fine. With the motor running, whip in the olive oil in a slow steady stream. Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper. Makes 1 cup.

4 2 4

ounces fresh or reconstituted cholla buds ounces fresh, tender, blanched, trimmed, green bean, bias cut into ½ inch pieces ounces sliced mushrooms ounces fresh, raw verdologas, picked over ounces jalapeño orange vinaigrette ounces queso fresco, crumbled ounces toasted pumpkin seeds ounces orange supremes salt and pepper, to taste

Blanch the green beans in two quarts boiling water for just a minute or two, so that their color is bright, the beans are slightly cooked and lose their raw edge but are still toothsome.

Drain and immediately submerge in the ice water to stop the cooking and set their color. Drain and pat dry.

Gently mix the cholla buds, green beans, mushrooms, and verdologas together and season with salt and pepper. Gently toss the salad in the jalapeño orange vinaigrette and garnish with the pumpkin seeds, queso fresco, and orange supremes.

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Painting by Jill Pankey

edible Silent & Live Auctions of Unique and Collectible Art by Regional Artists

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MEET YOUR FARMER

High-Tech Organic Going behind the scenes of an organic Wholesum Harvest tomato reveals a finely crafted feat of science.

By Laurel Bellante | Photography by Stephen Eginoire

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for a second and imagine a tomato. The small, round cherry is just ripe. It’s organic. It’s local. It bursts with flavor when you plop it in your mouth. But how was this imaginary tomato grown? Out in the sun? Down in the dirt? Who picked and boxed it?

If you are anything like me, you probably envisioned a tomato being plucked off the vine in some idyllic, pastoral setting— maybe in a garden. But just 40 miles south of Tucson, there is a very different kind of organic tomato being grown. Here, in the dusty little town of Amado, Wholesum Harvest’s 12-acre greenhouse produces some 187,000 pounds of tomatoes every week. And although the tomatoes grown here taste nearly as sweet as the ones you might remember from childhood summers, the setting is entirely different. This is organic meets high-tech.

Owner Ricardo Crisantes says that people often associate the word “organic” with a lack of technology. “When you say you are an organic grower, a lot of people think that you must be working like people did in the 1800s, but that’s not us. This is high-tech.”

Indeed. In bay after bay of transparent glass the scene is repeated: rows of perfectly trained tomato vines reach upwards toward the towering greenhouse ceiling; technicians move among the rows with precise movements, some wearing lab coats and scribbling on clipboards; a constant whirring emanates from the huge fans and industrial boiler room, which supply carbon dioxide and moisture to encourage plant growth.

Taking it in for the first time, this intensive tomato production in the middle of the Arizona desert seems more like the setting for a science fiction movie than for the production of Lose your eyes

healthy food. Yet the more I listen to Crisantes talk, the more I understand how this carefully-controlled operation is linked to a very powerful vision of the future of organic food. “‘Organics for everyone,’ is the Wholesum Harvest motto,” Crisantes says. “But with organic tomatoes selling at $5.99 a pound, we can’t achieve that. So, how do we get there?”

For Crisantes, a big part of the answer lies in this shiny, new greenhouse and the exacting use of science and technology.

Crisantes explains that the greenhouse is a sophisticated tool that requires expertise and constant vigilance. If used properly, it is a tool that can alter the economics of organic and local food. “You have two options to bring organic prices down: You can increase yields or you can decrease your costs. On the costs side, there is only so much you can trim before you start to affect the quality of your product. That’s why we focus instead on continually increasing our yields,” he says.

“What happens if we can get our yields at or above conventional yields? Then organic could truly be available to everyone and we could compete with the $1.99 a pound offered in the conventional sector. That’s when people will really see that this is not about ‘healthy only for the wealthy,’ but that this is for everyone.”

Seeing the greenhouse production firsthand, Crisantes’s vision seems just within reach. Each of the operation’s 250,000 tomato plants grows at chest height in its own planting box filled with a substrate of coconut rinds and compost. The vines are trained onto a complex weaving of twine connected to the (Right) Wholesum Harvest owners Ricardo and Theojary Crisantes survey an expanse of tomato vines.

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(Behind) A top-down view of a Wholesum Harvest greenhouse.

(Left) In the shade of the greenhouse, owner Theojary Crisantes holds Wholesum Harvest’s greatest assest: organic, vine-ripened tomatoes.

greenhouse ceiling. Drip irrigation tubes are fixed to each root system and a large plastic tunnel below each row of plants brings in a steady stream of cool, humid air and a calculated supply of carbon dioxide. Behind the light-filled production bays there are large, windowless warehouse spaces that underpin the entire operation: An enormous gas-powered boiler stands floor-to-ceiling in a dark corner, producing a constant flow of water vapor and carbon dioxide to the bays; large tanks collect and sanitize excess water for recirculation; and jet-powered vats aerate huge batches of house-brewed compost tea.

A bio-control team moves through the bays, identifying and eliminating harmful pests or bacteria. One woman moves smoothly between the rows atop a battery-powered trolley.

She shakes each plant gently with one hand, startling a mild cloud of white flies from the leaves, and encourages them to fly directly into the large square of yellow, flypaper she holds in her left hand. Other members of the bio-control team fix a series of small, cardboard tabs along the rows, each containing parasitic wasp eggs. Although these wasps are nearly invisible to the naked eye, they efficiently seek out and destroy any white fly larvae that might still be lingering among the plants.

Another group of workers rolls a large tub of compost tea through each bay, applying a generous splash to each plant. The compost tea is continually tweaked. In the back room, a team of soil scientists brews large vats of the tea, monitoring the liquid for microbiotic and fungal growth and ensuring the resulting

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Wholesum Harvest employee Jesus Solis harvests ripe tomatoes off hanging vines; these tomatoes will get shipped across the country.

tea contains the highest possible concentrations of beneficial bacteria and nutrients.

Crisantes says they process their own compost mix and teas on site, not just to cut input costs but to improve quality. “We are constantly learning in this business. You know a number of years ago, we thought, ‘Ah, compost is simple,’ but no, there is a whole science to it. By managing the compost on site, we get to see the effect of different ingredients and proportions of things,” he says.

From seed to harvest, every step of Wholesum Harvest’s production is calibrated, monitored, and adjusted to maximize yields and minimize losses. “My father has an analogy for this business,” Crisantes says. “When you begin, you start with a

seed that has 100 percent of its productive potential. But every mistake you make along the way takes a little bit away from that original potential. Whether your timing is wrong or you get infested by pests, or something else happens, all of those mistakes add up and take away from that great potential you started with.”

Harvesting all that great potential is one reason the company transitioned its production to controlled environments. The family business has come a long way since Crisantes’ Greek grandfather started it in the open fields of Sonora in 1928. By the time Crisantes’ father took over the business in the 1980s, they’d begun experimenting with greenhouses. At first, the structures were just haphazard collections of metal poles and

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Employee Javier Soliz inspects tomato vines. Quality control at Wholesum Harvest is tight.

stretched plastic. But as the technology became more refined, they built better structures. Finally, in 2012, with the help of a private loan in the United States, the family invested in the 12-acre greenhouse in Amado.

Business is booming for Wholesum Harvest. Their tomatoes are sold throughout the United States, and the high-tech, controlled greenhouse environment allows for entirely organic production. Because Arizona provides nearly year-round sun and round-the-clock production, Wholesum Harvest is able to attract a highly skilled and year-round labor force, avoiding the seasonal dips in employment so common in other border industries. Eventually, the Crisantes family’s dream is to expand the Amado greenhouse production to cover the entire 60-acre lot, allowing them to increase production by more than five times what it is today.

Curious about doing business on both sides of the border, I ask Crisantes about challenges and benefits on each side, thinking that there had to be much higher costs for labor and inputs for their U.S. production.

To my surprise, he gently rebuffed my logic. “You’d think that would be a logical assumption, that labor costs would be much higher here, but this greenhouse system was designed in Holland specifically to optimize labor. That means that our biggest investment is actually the greenhouse infrastructure itself and not the labor.” Indeed, while their 15-acre operation in Sonora employs some 300 people, here in Amado, the only slightly smaller 12-acre greenhouse operates with just 87 employees. What’s more, because the upfront costs for the greenhouse are so substantial, the Crisantes family had a much easier time securing loans in the United States than in Mexico.

After peering down the rows of tomatoes one last time, I turn to leave. It’s nearly noon and greenhouse workers are gathering around to purchase sandwiches from a woman selling food and drink from the back of a pick-up truck. A flutter of bird’s wings from a nearby tree breaks the constant hum emanating from the greenhouse.

Back in Tucson, I speak with Gene Giacomelli, the director of the Controlled Environment Agriculture Center at the University of Arizona, to discuss some lingering questions I have about the sustainability of high-tech, large-scale greenhouse production. Like Crisantes, Giacomelli is quick to enumerate the benefits of greenhouse production: “In terms of the controlled environments for growing any crop, you can use water more efficiently; you can protect it from the environment, meaning the natural weather; you can guarantee a product. If you like the taste of the tomato today—not everybody does— you go there and buy it a year from now and it will taste exactly the same. There’s a consistency. The grower knows what he’s getting and the brand name on it should tell the consumer and the markets what they’re getting.”

Giacomelli says that controlled environment production offers important benefits for organic production and agricultural labor. In the open field, growers have to do a lot more physical work to produce organically and cannot guarantee that sudden changes in the weather won’t jeopardize a crop. And, the year-round production of greenhouses eliminates the need for farmworkers to migrate with the crops or face seasonal unemployment. “If farm work was my life,” says Giacomelli, “I would go in that direction [of greenhouse employment] because of the security of potentially higher wages than in the open field and the quality of life—I could settle nearby and have a home and a family. So socially, I’ve got to believe it’s a good thing.”

But when examining the overall energy footprint and environmental impact of greenhouses, Giacomelli becomes more ambivalent. Comparing open field and greenhouse production requires complex calculations of the entire life cycle of a crop.

The savings in water and chemical inputs of greenhouses must be considered in relation to the energy demands of that greenhouse, the materials used, and the hours of labor.

“The bottom line is, if you compare those to the open field, there will be times when the open field wins hands down [as] better, but there are many more times when it doesn’t,” he says.

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Greenhouse-grown cherry tomatoes ripen on a vine.

“The thing is that we need [greenhouses] as, to use a poor analogy, another tool in the toolbox. Let’s put it to use where and when it makes the most sense.”

While I still wonder about the energy footprints of greenhouses, their effects on labor, and the implications of isolating agriculture from larger environmental cycles, I leave Giacomelli’s office still interested in controlled environment technology. Indeed it seems sustainability in food production can only be understood as a complex spectrum of trade-offs.

In greenhouses, these trade-offs include fewer pesticides in exchange for greater energy use; fewer but better jobs for farmworkers; guaranteed production, but no feedback loops with larger ecological cycles such as the maintenance of pollinator populations or beneficial insects.

In other words, each production decision creates a ripple effect in the human, environmental, and political economic context connected to how we eat. The implications of these rippling effects offer no easy conclusions. However, the owners of Wholesum Harvest make a compelling case for the high-tech organic route. After all, who doesn’t want “organics for everyone?” ✜ Wholesum Harvest. 2811 N. Palenque Ave. 520.281.9233.

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Laurel Bellante is a Ph.D. student in Geography and Development and member of the Pima County Food Alliance Leadership Council.

She is lover and writer of all things food.

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TABLE

One Organic Oven Eating organic before organic was cool, Steve and Renee Kreager have been putting pure food on Tucson tables since 2005.

By Renée Downing | Photography by Steven Meckler

R

are way longer than dog years, which makes 2005 a long, long time ago in Tucson restaurant history—not the food-Precambrian, maybe, but certainly the deep Jurassic of local food consciousness. But 2005—the height of the real-estate bubble, the year that the first YouTube video went up—was when Steve and Renee Kreager, both just 27, opened the doors on a pioneering organic pizzeria at Tanque Verde Road and Sabino Canyon Road.

The Whole Foods on Speedway was still a Wild Oats, the local farmers’ markets were a fraction of their current size, and the food-truck round-up was a vague rumor from the Southern California coast. Children, it was another age.

But the Kreagers knew food, and they knew Tucson, having arrived in 1998 as a not-yet-married couple visiting family from the Detroit area on spring break.

“From the minute I saw Tucson, I loved it,” says Renee.

“There’s a feeling to this place that I got immediately: You can be yourself here. And you matter.

“I felt I’d come home. Steve felt exactly the same way. So we moved.”

Warm, quick, and outgoing, Renee intended to be a psychiestaur ant years

atrist—“I’m all about people and making relationships”—but had restaurant experience back in Michigan in a family-owned Lebanese place she’d loved. Once in Tucson, she got a job in an eastside café.

“The customers loved me, and I loved taking care of them.

But I didn’t see myself in the food business forever,” she says.

The pizzeria that eventually became Renee’s Organic Oven would be born, organically enough, of her pregnancy with the couple’s son, Jeff, now 12.

A long-time vegetarian, Renee adopted an “exactingly organic diet” when she was pregnant. Three realizations came from her months of obsessively reading labels, tracking down trustworthy food sources, and preparing her own meals: One, she felt better than she ever had before in her life; two, sourcing pure, sustainably produced food required effort; and three, it was almost impossible to eat out.

The dining-out problem came to a head when family visited from the Midwest: Where could they all enjoy a meal together?

Renee Kreager started Renee’s Organic Oven with her husband, Steve, when they realized it was almost impossible to eat organic and eat out.

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Sustainable, humane, organic meets cheesy deliciousness on the top of a Renee’s pizza.

“I couldn’t believe that there wasn’t more pure food on Tucson tables,” Renee says. “I knew there had to be other people out there with the same frustration.”

The Kreagers were inspired to open a place that reflected their feelings about the quality and ethics of food, and their knack for making customers feel loved. Since Steve’s background was in pizza, a pizzeria was the natural choice. Still, the mission statement Renee wrote for their business plan was all about her desire to become an important part of what makes Tucson a community.

“My investor was, like, ‘Hey, from your mouth to God’s ear, but don’t you think there should be something in there about profit?’”

They opened in a small strip mall storefront with Renee running the front of house and Steve presiding over the kitchen. Nine years later, they’re in the same space, but food trends have caught up to the Kreagers’ vision. Renee’s is packed every day for both lunch and dinner, has 159 five-star reviews (at last count) from the fusspots on Yelp, and, in spite of its tiny footprint, grossed nearly a million dollars last year. But while the menu is several times its original size, nothing has really changed: The couple’s first employee still works for them, and every cook but one started out washing dishes. Steve’s mother currently works in the back.

“We are built on a steady staff that has remained committed to us and have made their way to where they want to be in our place.”

People are always telling her they should open another location.

“Oh no, we shouldn’t,” Renee says. “We spend time going physically to our vendors and picking up local goods and markets and storefronts, so we can’t be spread too thin. And I’m all about balance. I love my friends and family.”

In addition, expansion would entail risk: The cost for the ingredients the restaurant uses is high, and the Kreagers would risk spending too much by adding mass and multiple locations to the mix.

“More and more people want local, organic, humane, and sustainable—and good for them—but they don’t understand all that means. Our sourcing is intricate.”

Educating her customers about the ecosystem of Baja Arizona farmers, ranchers, beekeepers, brewers, wine-makers, cheese- and ice cream-makers, coffee roasters, tea importers, and other organic merchants supported by their dollars is a big part of her job, as she sees it.

“One of my suppliers told me that I pay more for chicken than anyone in Tucson except Janos. I am happy, and my true audience is happy, to pay for the highest quality ingredients and a living wage for our staff. My customers understand that when they’re in this little restaurant, they’re helping the whole ship sail.”

She refuses to argue or apologize for her prices—which move the occasional one-star Yelper to righteous, bargain-focused anger. But she and her staff are ready and able to explain

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The hand that feeds is a well-treated one; many employees have worked at Renee’s Organic Oven for years.

the reasons behind the $30 16-inch pizza and the $6 4-ounce chicken breast.

“Food should cost more. Meat, particularly, is very precious.

If you’re paying $2 for breakfast, what are you eating? If the guy who owns the place can charge you that, the way his ingredients are produced is disgraceful.

“If someone doesn’t see the value in our food once they’ve tasted it and we’ve answered their questions, well, they don’t.

But our audience understands that we care about their food, and about this community, and about them. We run on a very small margin.”

Among the most fiercely loyal of Renee’s many devoted patrons are those with food allergies and intolerances. A couple of years in, the Kreagers decided to apply the same meticulous

sensibility required to run an organic kitchen to producing gluten-free appetizers, sandwiches, salads, and pizzas—and one supplier told her that she was using more gloves than the Arizona Inn. Since then, with input from the Celiac Association, they’ve simplified processes by setting up a separate, gloves-only, gluten-free line and adding extra staff to make the two lines work. So far they’ve sold 12,000 gluten-free pies.

“Eating organic and local is a preference; people with food allergies and intolerances have a need,” she says.

But it’s not all clean living and higher consciousness at Renee’s. The restaurant fields a selection of organic beer and wine, and, thanks to Renee’s input, the bar makes a mean cocktail.

“There’s got to be fun, right? We keep thinking about what we’re going to do next, what our customers would like to try

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Renee sits back with her coffee and smiles. “I like to think that we’ve brought the feel of the whole city in here. It’s not perfect. It’s never perfect. But lots of days, it’s beautiful.” ✜ Renee’s Organic Oven. 7065 E. Tanque Verde Road.

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Gleaning Tucson

Through Iskashitaa Refugee Network, refugees from across the world not only recapture food that would otherwise go to waste, they also connect to their new community.

By Lourdes Medrano Photography by Steven Meckler

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D

r i v ing dow n a lonesome dirt road near the northern edge of Tucson, past dense cotton fields ripe with white puffs that sway in the morning breeze, it’s easy to miss the unassuming goji berry shrubs growing wild in the desert brush.

But on this autumn day, the scraggly plant beckons a small group of people. Ten women and men emerge from parked cars, small plastic bags in hand, and swiftly begin picking the minuscule berries while chatting in English, Arabic, and Swahili. Although the day is still young, the workers have already filled the back of a pickup truck with freshly cut pumpkins from a nearby field in Marana.

Iskashitaa has partnered with Pima Community College’s Vocational English as a Second Language (VESL) class; at the St. Francis in the Foothills UMC commercial kitchen, volunteers teach juicing, jamming, zesting, drying, pickling, fermenting, marmalading, cooking, canning, and more. From left to right: Janighol Ahmadi, Afghanistan; Rigbe Hailu, Eritrea; Mary Lual, Sudan; Kidisti Fisehaye, Eritrea; Fatemeh Hosseini, Afghanistan.

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Iskashitaa volunteers are all smiles after a morning of harvesting. Clockwise, from top: Alaa Almudafar, from Iraq; Teresa Murekatetete, from Rwanda; Abdalla, from Darfur; and Zahra Ismael, from Somalia.

Picking fruits and vegetables that others might overlook is a specialty for these nimble harvesters. Throughout the year, they scour backyards, farm fields, and even the open desert on a mission to salvage food before it goes to waste.

The purpose? To recapture a wide-ranging supply of fresh food that Iskashitaa Refugee Network will use to nourish displaced people resettling in Tucson from Africa, Asia, and the Middle East. Forced by conflict to start a new life in the United States, they are people like Nargis Nabi from Afghanistan, Nandi Neopaney from Bhutan, Faeza Hililian from Iraq, and Adam Abubakar from Sudan. Abubakar, a familiar face at Iskashitaa harvests, is among those picking berries. The sight of the red, egg-shaped fruit makes him think of his North African homeland.

“We have many like this in my country,” the youthful father of four tells a companion as he points to a berry bush. When the fruit picking is over, both berries and pumpkins are delivered to Iskashitaa’s headquarters in central Tucson, where the crops are weighed, sorted, and distributed to refugees throughout the city. Last year, the newcomers and local volunteers gleaned some 100,000 pounds of fruits and vegetables such as pomegranates, dates, mesquite pods, and tangelos. Refugees not only help with crop harvesting but also participate in an array of culinary activities that allow them an opportunity to interact with people from all walks of life.

“There’s healing, there’s camaraderie,” says Barbara Eiswerth, director and founder of Iskashitaa. “It’s a good way for them to integrate into the community and become empowered.”

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Clockwise, from top left: Longtime volunteer Trudy Duffy loads harvested oranges into crates for delivery around town; UA students Hillary Johnson and Brandon Witten help with the harvest as part of their community service hours for a Global Health class; originally from Darfur, Omer Bahkit and his family lived in Egypt before moving to Tucson. They speak Zaghawa, a regional language that is said to be spoken by no one else in Tucson.

While various resettlement agencies help incoming refugees to secure housing and jobs, since 2003 Iskashitaa has offered new arrivals a support network that seeks to ease their transition to American culture. Refugees resettling here from more than 20 countries collectively have known wars, persecution, and genocide. Iskashitaa works to help them move forward through the universal language of food.

“We harvest together, we do food preparation, food demos, and cultural exchange activities so refugees can share their knowledge with the larger Tucson community,” Eiswerth says.

Anywhere from 800 to 1,200 refugees arrive in Tucson each year as part of a regular influx of displaced populations to Arizona. The state, which ranks sixth in resettlement admissions across the nation behind Texas, California, New York, Michi-

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Omer Bahkit and his wife, both from Darfur, serve as community organizers in their apartment complex to help divide up local fruit among other refugees and immigrants.

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The citrus harvest arrived early this year, so Iskashitaa has been inundated with calls to collect grapefruit, lemons, and oranges.

Volunteer Trudy Duffy goes the extra mile to collect all the fruit she can reach.

gan, and Florida, resettled 2,964 refugees last year. In that time, the United States took in about 70,000 of the world’s 1.6 million refugees. The number of admissions, set by the president, ebbs and flows each year in sync with wars and political upheaval around the globe.

When Iskashitaa came into being, many arriving refugees were Bantu-speaking members of a persecuted ethnic minority

in Somalia that a raging civil war has driven out of their country. After working with Somali Bantu youth early on, Eiswerth named the nonprofit in their language.

Iskashitaa, or “working cooperatively together,” turned out to be a fitting name for an organization that now works with some 30 ethnic groups with different customs, beliefs, and palates. Getting to know which refugees eat what has been a learn-

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Amina, originally from Somalia, holds her 6-month-old baby while her other children enjoy Somali sambusas during Iskashitaa’s multiethnic Thanksgiving dinner for some 150 residents and guests.

ing experience for Eiswerth and her small staff. In 2005, when Liberians resettled here, they wondered where they might find fresh pumpkin leaves. “To eat?” Eiswerth recalls asking.

Iskashitaa now regularly harvests pumpkin leaves, along with the fruit’s tender shoots, flowers, and seeds, to the delight of refugees who include them in their diet. “For refugees, the pumpkin is not just a jack-o-lantern,” she says.

The day after harvesters drop off a bounty of pumpkins and parts at Iskashitaa, the place bustles with workers and volunteers. Rows of the fleshy orange fruit line a wall and a storage room overflows with boxes of produce. Inside the adjacent offices, Mason jars atop shelves brim with carob powder, roasted jojoba beans, and dry herbs that Iskashitaa uses in educational workshops. Eiswerth’s home is on the other side of her workplace and the land between the two structures grows plants, holds a compost site, and hosts special gatherings.

Near a swimming pool, Afghani Nargis Nabi and Aluda Taku, from Eritrea, stand behind a table. Unable to speak a common language, they work quietly in tandem, gently dipping pumpkin flowers in a water container to rinse off any bugs. Taku arrived in Tucson just three months ago, so English remains a jumble of foreign words. She helps out at Iskashitaa to fulfill community service work that newly arrived refugees on government cash assistance must perform each week. Many stay on as volunteers after they get jobs and become self-sufficient.

Nabi, a war widow, has been a fixture at Iskashitaa for several years. Her flower task complete, she heads for the storage room and collects enough pumpkins, dates, rosemary, and chile peppers to feed four Afghani families new to Tucson.

“It’s very good, delicious food,” Nabi says while loading food boxes in the trunk of her car.

Eiswerth, a gregarious woman trained as a research geologist and environmental scientist, puts a couple of food boxes into a white cargo van donated by the Tucson Community Food Bank. The agency is one of many Iskashitaa works with to reach out to refugees. On this early Thursday afternoon, she heads to an apartment complex on North Alvernon Way that’s home to refugee tenants from several countries. As she drives, she points to a property where Iskashitaa has plucked grapefruits and lemons before they spoiled. She’s constantly on the lookout for fruits and vegetables that litter yards and alleys, which can mean more harvesting locations.

“Homeowners aren’t picking them or using them,” she says.

Her zeal for preventing food waste can be traced back to the late 1960s and early ‘70s, when Eiswerth was growing up in Pennsylvania. The youngest of three children, she lived in Bradford Woods, a borough outside Pittsburgh. “My brother and sister’s summer jobs were cutting lawns,” she says. “But there were often apple trees in people’s yards.”

Eiswerth would pick up the apples off the ground, gather glass milk jugs from neighbors, and, after cleaning the containers, beg her mother to take her to a community apple press.

“And so the apples—damaged, bruised—all would go into the apple press,” she says. “Then I’d fill up the jugs with apple cider, go back to the neighbors, and sell them.”

Many years later, during work trips to do research in East and West Africa in the late 1990s to early 2000, Eiswerth came face to face with the ravaging impact of food shortages. “Then I

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Clockwise, from top left: Barbara Eiswerth, Iskashitaa’s director and founder, celebrates the UA’s second annual olive harvest. As part of a collaboration with UA’s LEAF (Linking Edible Arizona Forests), Iskashitaa volunteers worked alongside UA students to harvest olives from campus trees.

After the harvest, the olives were pressed into olive oil at Queen Creek Olive Mill.

would come back to Tucson and there’d be pomegranates on the ground, Meyer lemons on the ground, and figs on the ground,” she says. “It got harder and harder to come back here, having just been in a village that’s experiencing a hunger period.”

The idea for what would eventually become Iskashitaa started taking shape. A local government grant allowed her to

put together a group of young people that, using Geospatial Information Technologies like satellite images, mapped area neighborhood food resources—everything from edible weeds to herbs to native and non-native trees. Other youth, including Somali Bantu refugees, later continued work on the project.

Now hosted on internal Google maps, Iskashitaa has identified

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Phul Chuwan, an ethnic Nepali from Bhutan, harvests green tomatoes, the product of a nine-month experiment with the UA’s Controlled Environmental Agricultural Center.

hundreds of locations where volunteers have permission to harvest, including farm fields, public spaces such as Tohono Chul Park, and many private residences.

In the backyard of Nura Dualeh and Mohamud Farah’s home, their fickle pomegranate tree produced enough of the fruit to tingle the taste buds of family, neighbors, and colleagues last season. And still the shrub offered an abundance of its red, round bounty in October, late in the season. Like they do every year, Iskashitaa volunteers came by. This time, they harvested some 350 pounds of pomegranates.

“It was an unbelievable year,” Dualeh says. “As a homeowner you feel good that the tree was harvested and it didn’t go to waste.”

Some of those pomegranates ended up in the home of Bhutanese refugee Nandi Neopaney, who resettled here five years ago. His family is from the small nation of Bhutan, in South Asia.

Eiswerth arrives at Neopaney’s apartment complex and finds him tending to his plot in a community garden. Iskashitaa supplies seeds, compost, and soil for such agricultural endeavors to refugees, many of them former subsistence farmers. Neopaney shows off his bumper crop of mustard greens, chile peppers, and luffa gourds, a common vegetable in Asia, to Eiswerth and Iskashitaa harvesting coordinator Chloe Sovinee-Dyroff.

“Wait ‘til you see what we have for you today,” Eiswerth tells the affable man.

When later, in his garage, Eiswerth hands him a bunch of pumpkins, shoots, and leaves, Neopaney says it reminds him of the years he spent at a refugee camp in Nepal. A food truck would drop off food that he helped distribute to fellow Bhutanese, he recalls.

“I do same here,” he says, cracking a smile. Before leaving, Eiswerth encourages him to gather some of the marigolds,

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Tuesday through Sunday year round, 10:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m., AZ Time.

(Closed Mondays and major holidays)

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520.586.3666

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www.amerind.org

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Iskashitaa’s harvesting and farmers’ market coordinator, Chloe Sovinee-Dyroff, came to Tuscon with AmeriCorps VISTA, through a collaboration with the nonprofit New York City Coalition Against Hunger.

peppers, and holy basil that surround his apartment to sell at the farmers’ market. A goal of Iskashitaa is to increase refugee participation at farmers’ markets, where the nonprofit makes available to Tucsonans local fruits and vegetables, including some rarely found in grocery stores. Date syrup is such a food.

Iskashitaa recently collected about 2,100 pounds of dates— thanks to a state grant, the most they’ve ever collected—after inspecting 12 sites and working closely with landscapers.

“We harvested at three different places at Orange Grove and Oracle, where the old orange groves were around the 1930s,” she says. “They also planted date palms.”

When it’s time to make date syrup, Iskashitaa calls on the experts: refugees from Iraq, where millions of date palms grow.

Faeza Hililian, who arrived in Tucson five years ago, seems at home in the kitchen of St. Francis in the Foothills United Methodist Church, a fiscal sponsor for Iskashitaa. She often takes part in food preservation workshops on making marmalades, jams, and dressings.

One early afternoon, Hililian left her English class early to help make date syrup with fellow Iraqi Alaa al Ani and other cooks. Standing over a huge pot, Hililian stirred the liquid extracted from boiling dates in water, then strained through a

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cloth. Once thickened, the liquid fills glass bottles that are placed in a water bath canner to prevent spoiling.

Iraqis mix the date syrup with tahini, a sesame seed paste, and eat it with flat bread. Dates rolled in sesame seeds are another favorite snack.

A few days later, Hililian arrives at the Benedictine Monastery on Country Club Road. Iskashitaa volunteer Marcela Ball drove her there so she could drop off a bottle of date syrup for the nuns, who weeks earlier had allowed Iskashitaa to pick dates from some of the 40 palms that go mostly unharvested on the grounds. Many years ago, when the trees were smaller, the sisters used to climb on scaffolding and pick the dates themselves both to eat and sell to visitors, says Sister Ramona Varela. But the sisters can’t afford to pay a landscaping company to pollinate the tall trees and later harvest the fruit.

Iskashitaa and its partners made it possible for the sisters to once again savor the dates. Sister Varela and Hililian agree that increasing the amount gleaned every year would be ideal.

Ever the Iskashitaa ambassador, Hililian talks about finding ways to expand date harvesting well beyond the monastery so more people can enjoy the tasty fruit. “We can do that,” she says, matter-of-factly. ✜ Iskashitaa Refugee Network. 1406 E. Grant Road. 520.440.0100.

Iskashitaa.org.

Lourdes Medrano is a Tucson writer who covers stories on both sides of the border.

Follow her on Twitter @_lourdesmedrano.

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BUZZ

The Little Store That Could After nearly forty years in business, Plaza Liquors and Fine Wines has figured out a way to outsmart big-box retailers to keep loyal customers coming back.

By Eric Swedlund | Photography by Jeff Smith

A

LOT HAS CHANGED since 1978.

When Plaza Liquors and Fine Wines opened, the number of American breweries was at its post-Prohibition low and homebrewing was still illegal. Napa Valley, fresh off the surprise victory of California wines over their French counterparts at the 1976 Judgment of Paris, was just beginning to establish its reputation.

Now, Plaza Liquors carries an inventory of more than 700 beers and a carefully chosen selection of wines that goes well beyond France and Napa, including another region on the rise: Baja Arizona.

The store is both compact and overwhelming, the bottle-lined shelves carefully organized by variety and style, with large beer coolers dominating one wall. Options abound no matter what your preference is, and the staff is ready with recommendations. It’s in an unassuming strip mall, sure, but Plaza Liquors has a “world-class” 98 rating from Beer Advocate.

Through years of massive growth in beer and wine producers, shifting consumer tastes, and the arrival of big-box liquor stores, Plaza has kept its focus on making the customer happy.

“Really for the past 30 years, we’ve done nothing but have increases in our business, with the exception of the latest recession,” says the owner, Mark Thomson. “Customer service has always been the bottom line here, and I’ve never let go of that theory.”

Even as traditional grocery stores, drug stores, discount outlets like Costco, specialty markets like Whole Foods and Trader Joe’s, and large beer, wine and liquor retailers like BevMo! and Total Wine & More have increased their fight for a share of the $400 billion beverage industry (as estimated by the Distilled Spirits Council of the United States), Plaza has thrived, mostly by doing things that others aren’t.

“A lot of people have been around for a long time selling liquor at discount rates. I’ve always had to deal with chains and I’ve had to devise different ways of outsmarting them,” Thomson says.

Today, Plaza draws people with a hugely popular mix-a-six bottled beer business and weekly beer and wine tastings that educate customers as well as provide the store with fresh data on what its customers like best. Add in an expert sales staff and a culture of quality and it’s no surprise that Plaza is a perennial winner of Tucson Weekly’s Best of Tucson awards.

“With box stores, I think a lot of people don’t like having to shop around such a big store. We have a tremendous selection, but within an area that’s easy to shop and with people to help,” Thomson says.

Plaza Liquors owner Mark Thomson shows off two Tucson-based liquor selections: Hamilton Distiller’s Whiskey del Bac and Iron John’s Black Hearted Mary Imperial Stout.

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Plaza Liquors was one of the first liquor stores in Tucson to offer the mix-a-six option: Combine any six beers, no extra charge.

The store opened on Jan. 15, 1978, in Campbell Plaza, next to what was then an AJ Bayless, which didn’t have a liquor license. A much smaller store, Plaza depended on grocery shoppers from next door as it built up a clientele. Seven years later, Plaza moved to its current location at 2642 N. Campbell Ave., where having its own parking lot allowed the store to be more independent and start focusing on a more varied selection.

“The first thing I got on was the wine. We were a liquor store at first, but I wanted to develop our wine business, so from the very beginning that became my specialty,” Thomson says.

“I went to wine country and visited wineries and read all I could and fortunately, we got to be one of the go-to places for wine.”

Thomson added a tasting license in 1980, but just this summer upgraded the store to include a tasting bar.

“I’ve always used it, for informal tastings and formal tastings, but recently we’ve decided to take it more seriously,” he says.

“Our focus on tastings is comparative tastings. With wine, we’ll take five or six bottles of, say, a Cabernet Sauvignon in a certain price range and taste them, with our customers as judges. That really gives us an idea of what the customers like. It works out really well. The customers, as tasters, have a lot more energy for that type of tasting. They feel they’re contributing, so they get really into it.”

The store holds tastings every week—and line up the tastings with 10 percent discount days: Wednesdays for wine and Thursdays for beer.

The craft beer explosion beginning about 15 years ago gave Plaza another opportunity to distinguish itself.

“I wanted to swing our attention over to beer and the best way to do that was to increase our selection. We built up inventory to more than 700 beers. That’s something we were on the forefront of from the beginning of the craft-beer explosion, so we caught that wave just right,” Thomson says.

But it wasn’t just selection that brought in the craft-beer crowd.

“One thing that’s made a huge difference is we went to singling about 10 years ago, mix-a-six. That not only worked, it became the mainstay of our business. You don’t get beer bored and we don’t charge any extra,” he says. “You could come in at any time of day and somebody is mixing a six. People in general love that opportunity. It’s variety, it’s adventure, it’s exploration, and it gives people the opportunity to do their own little beer tastings, so they can learn and appreciate the styles more.”

Beer specialist Gabriel Romero, who’s been at Plaza for about a year and a half, says the mix-a-six rewards adventurous and curious customers. He should know.

“I was a customer here for years. When I turned 21 in the late-’90s, the craft-beer trend hit. I lived up the street and I just fell in love with it,” he says. “Plaza was always the place that had things first. Some of the bigger stores are starting to catch up a bit, but we’re always rotating the stock and bringing in new things. We have the old standards, but we try to get a selection that’s different.”

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115 Railview Ave., Willcox, AZ www.carlsoncreek.com

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Small store, big selection: “Our selection holds up to the big stores,” says Romero. “And we know what we’re talking about here.”

With so many new breweries—the number of U.S. craft breweries has doubled in the last eight years—and a wide range of customer tastes, Plaza works to keep its selection eclectic.

“Every week there’s something new we can bring in,” Romero says. “We bring in things from everywhere.

Our selection holds up to the big stores for sure, and we know what we’re talking about here.”

That expertise is what matters, Thomson says, keeping Plaza a step ahead even as others have gone to the mix-a-six model.

“With the chains, even though some of them have gone to that, most stores don’t because it’s too labor intensive. So much human labor goes into stocking 650 cold beers every day,” he says.

And when those employees on the floor stocking coolers and wine racks are the same ones ordering, Plaza has a big advantage over a long corporate decision-making chain. One example Thomson cites is Iron John’s Brewing Company, the local small-batch brewery that began this year.

“We are all about Iron John. He’s always happy to run over the latest batch. That’s almost our No. 1 brewery now. Big stores don’t stock that,” he says.

“We’ve always focused on local wine and beer. Those are our neighbors and they need our support as much as we need their support. But we don’t just focus on Tucson. We love Flagstaff beers. We love Phoenix beers.”

One thing Plaza doesn’t stock is the corporate wineries you can find in the big-box stores.

“Something that’s really attracted our wine buyers, just like our craft beer people, is we deal almost exclusively in genuinely family-owned wineries,” Thomson says. “I take pains to point that out to customers. If they’re in here supporting us, they’re the type of person who would want to support the family-owned wineries too.”

Wine specialist Allen Rodriguez worked at Plaza for 13 years, then left to work on the wholesale side for 11 years, and recently returned, bringing his decades of knowledge.

“I’ve been in and out of so many retail stores over the years, and I’ve told Mark that his customer service standards are better than I’ve seen almost anyplace else,” he says. “That’s where the knowledge part comes in. If we’re out of a certain wine, I can show a customer four or five others.”

Plaza did struggle for a few years after the 2008 economic crisis, but sales now are over pre-recession levels, despite the increased competition from the likes of BevMo! and Total Wine.

Mostly, Thomson credits his “long list of good employees.”

“I’ve been lucky. My employees have taken care of me and been really good to the customers as well,” Thomson says.

“We’ve staked our business on the belief that if you’re a good store and you treat people well, they’ll come back and they’ll tell other people.” ✜

“We’ve always focused on local wine and beer.

Those are our neighbors and they need our support as much as we need their support.”

Plaza Liquors. 2642 N. Campbell Ave. 520.327.0452.

Eric Swedlund writes about music, travel, and food and drink. He lives in Tucson. Find him on Twitter @EricSwedlund.

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S

ince s tephen p aul ’ s Whiskey del Bac started shipping out to bars across Tucson in 2013, it has been close to impossible to meet local demand. The small copper potstill at Hamilton Distillers never had a chance once it found regular distribution. In response to the popularity, del Bac is transitioning from its humble roots in an alleyway off Fourth Avenue to a ramped-up factory at 2106 N. Forbes Blvd.

Global Stainless Systems in Canby, Oregon, provided a new, oversized copper-pot still and set of malting tanks that Paul hopes will produce 4,500 cases a year once it is fully operational. The team has also been talking with BKW Farms in Marana to start sourcing local Conlon barley to add another local ingredient to the process. Paul has already been donating leftover malted barley from the whiskey production process to a number of Arizona farms to use as animal feed. The first distillations began in December so expect the first wave of del Bac whiskey aged in the new facility to hit the market in May. HamiltonDistillers.com.

One reason for del Bac’s early success in Tucson was the team’s dedication to strong relationships with local bars and restaurants. Bartenders from across the city were included in every stage of the development: label design, early tasting, navigating the multiple liquor distributors on the market.

Thanks to their involvement, del Bac has become an unspoken requirement on any new cocktail lists in the burgeoning downtown restaurant scene.

Jesse Schaefer, bar manager extraordinaire at The Coronet, is offering the The Hegemon: Whiskey del Bac Classic, Swedish Punsch, Gran Classico, Angostura, lemon, and house grenadine. A strong winter sour with intense stewed fruit flavors, the drink pairs well with Naïm Amor’s guitar on the patio. There’s always live music at The Coronet on Wednesdays and Thursdays and usually some other day of the week. The Coronet also sports an extensive

classic cocktail list, a selection of which is only $5 during happy hour (3-6 p.m., Monday-Friday).

Thursdays seem to be the night to visit, with live music, strong cocktails, and a prix-fixe menu from chefs Jake Alpert and Erika Bostick-Esham. 402 E. Ninth St. 520.222.9889. CafeCoronet.com.

R Bar—self-described as “Tucson’s Best Alley Bar,” located in the alleyway next to the Rialto Theater—hosted its inaugural Bon Vivant’s Club on Dec. 4. The club will be hosted the first Thursday of each month and feature a selection of a half dozen wines that exemplify a particular wine-growing region. Rory O’Rear, head mixologist and host of the wine-tasting club, focuses on wines under the “natural wine” banner that is, wines with minimal intervention, low to no sulfites, lack of filtration, or produced following the principles of biodynamic agriculture Natural wine is something of a new product in most wine markets, as it fails to compete with large production wines, whose marketing budgets alone eclipse the entire budgets of these small farms. The opportunity to try a generous selection of these special bottles side-by-side is a rarity anywhere, let alone the often-forgotten Arizona market. The third meeting of the Bon Vivant Club will be Feb. 5 and will focus on the wines of Burgundy. Register online at rbartucson. com (it fills up fast) to taste the best selection of Chablis you will find anytime soon in Arizona.

350 E. Congress St., No. 110. 520.305.3599.

RBarTucson.com.

Lee’s Runway Bar and Grill, located on Alvernon south of 29th Street, is a bit of a legend in the Tuc- s o n dive bar scene. If you haven’t yet visited, it’s a neighborhood blue collar bar that serves cold domestic beer, hosts live music of every variety imaginable, plays football replays on an old cathoderay-tube TV, and is owned by a charismatic woman who sells jars of the best kimchee in town from behind the bar. Huicha “Lee” Smith moved to Tucson in hopes of pursuing an art career but quickly found herself working as a cocktail waitress in the officers’ club at Davis-Monthan Air Force Base. After years of working on base and at the nearby Disabled American Veterans chapter, Smith got an opportunity from a friend in the Korean community to take over Runway, which caters to military personnel and working class folks nearby. The bar represents everything a neighborhood watering hole should be; the Korean cuisine only makes a trip down even more enticing. Smith tries to make fresh kimchee every Sunday or Monday—she usually runs out of time on Sunday because she has to take her grandchildren to church—so make sure to stop by on Wednesday or Thursday to pick up a few jars, enjoy a Budweiser, and have a conversation with one of the postal workers drinking on the patio. 2101 S. Alvernon Way. 520.790.6288.

Bryan Eichhorst is a native Tucsonan, unapologetic sommelier, dedicated evangelist of Oaxacan mezcal, and the beverage director at Penca.

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CATERING IN BAJA ARIZONA

Thursday 4PM-8PM Friday 4PM-8PM Saturday 2PM-7PM

3810 East 44th Street edible 2015-01 Heritage Foods.indb 157

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SONOITA/ELGIN & TOMBSTONE WINE MAP To Tuc s

on/Ph

Exit #281

oenix

To New M

exico

6.3 Mi. 1

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83

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6

Tombstone

83

th S

Elgin ford

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80

12

Note: Many roads have been omitted for clarity.

1 2 3

CHARRON VINEYARDS

18585 S. Sonoita Hwy, Vail 520-762-8585 CharronVineyards.com Fri–Sun: 10-6

DOS CABEZAS WINEWORKS 3248 Hwy 82, Sonoita 520-455-5141 DosCabezasWineworks.com Thurs–Sun: 10:30-4:30

AZ HOPS & VINES

3450 Hwy 82, Sonoita 888-569-1642 AZHopsAndVines.com Thurs: 11-4, Fri-Sun: 10-6

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4 5

HANNAH’S HILL

3989 State Hwy 82, Elgin 520-456-9000 HannahsHill.com

By Appointment Only

WILHELM FAMILY VINEYARDS

21 Mtn. Ranch Dr., Elgin 520-455-9291 WilhelmVineyards.com Oct–April: Daily 11-5 May–Sept: Fri – Sun 11-5 Mon-Thurs by Appointment

6 7 8

11

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14

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RANCHO ROSSA VINEYARDS 32 Cattle Ranch Ln., Elgin 520-455-0700 RanchoRossa.com Fri–Sun: 10:30-3:30

CALLAGHAN VINEYARDS 336 Elgin Road, Elgin 520-455-5322 CallaghanVineyards.com Thurs–Sun: 11-4

FLYING LEAP VINEYARDS 342 Elgin Road, Elgin 520-954-2935 FlyingLeapVineyards.com Daily: 11-4

9

KIEF-JOSHUA VINEYARDS

370 Elgin Road, Elgin 520-455-5499 KiefJoshuaVineyards.com Daily: 11-5

10 V471 Elgin Road,EElgin ILLAGE OF

LGIN

520-455-9309 ElginWines.com Daily: 11-5

To Ft. Huachuca (50 min.)

Sierra Vista (1 hr.)

12 L2368 Hwy 83,RElgin IGHTNING

CELLARS

IDGE

520-455-5383 LightningRidgeCellars.com Fri-Sun: 11-4

W W 13 T15 N 4th St, Tombstone OMBSTONE

INE

ORKS

520-261-1674 TombstoneWinery.com Daily: 12-6

V W 11 S290 Elgin Canelo 14 S334 E AllenS St., Tombstone Rd., Elgin ONOITA

INEYARDS

520-455-5893 SonoitaVineyards.com Daily: 10-4

ILVER

TRIKE

INERY

520-678-8200 SilverStrikeWinery.com Daily: 12-6

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27811 S. Sonoita Hwy (Hwy 83), Sonoita 520.455.9272

Whisper's Ranch B&B in Elgin wine country www.whispersranch.com (520) 455-9246

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WILLCOX AREA & BISBEE WINE MAP Fort G ra nt Rd .

From Exit #331 1 Hour to Tucson 1 hour to Sonoita 3 Hours to Phoenix

336

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4

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Note: Many roads have been omitted for clarity.

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7 8 9 10

186

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186

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SAND-RECKONER 130 S. Haskell Avenue 303.931.8472 Sand-Reckoner.com

By Appointment Only FLYING LEAP VINEYARDS: WILLCOX TASTING ROOM 100 N. Railroad Avenue 520.384.6030 FlyingLeapVineyards.com Wed-Sun: 12-6 KEELING SCHAEFER 154 N. Railroad Avenue 520.766.0600 KeelingSchaeferVineyards.com Wed-Sun: 11-5 CARLSON CREEK 115 Railroad Avenue 520.766.3000 CarlsonCreek.com Thu-Sun 11-5 ARIDUS TASTING ROOM 145 N Railview Ave 520.766.9463 AridusWineCo.com Tasting Room Daily: 11-5 Crush Room Daily: 11-5 w/appt.

ARIDUS CRUSH FACILITY 1126 N. Haskell Avenue 520.766.2926 Mon-Fri: 11-5, Sat-Sun: By Appt.

11 12 13 14 15

. ve lA

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oo

#3

ag

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Exit #318

(3 hrs. to Las Cruces

)

to New Mexico

Exit #

Exit #331

Dr

191

7

Business Loop

PASSION CELLARS AT SALVATORE VINEYARDS 3052 N. Fort Grant Road 602.750.7771 PassionCellars.com

By Appointment Only CORONADO VINEYARDS 2909 E. Country Club Drive 520.384.2993 Mon-Sat: 9:30-5:30, Sun: 10-4 CoronadoVineyards.com FORT BOWIE VINEYARDS 156 N. Jefferson, Bowie AZ 520.847.2593 By appointment only BODEGA PIERCE TASTING ROOM 4511 E. Robbs Road 602.320.1722 Daily: 11-5 or by appt.

BodegaPierce.com PILLSBURY VINEYARD 6450 S. Bennett Place 520.384.3964 Pillsburywine.com Thurs-Sun: 11-5, Mon-Wed: By Appointment Only ZARPARA VINEYARDS 6777 S. Zarpara Lane 602.885.8903 Zarpara.com Fri-Sun: 11-5, Mon-Thurs: By Appt.

KEELING SCHAEFER VINEYARD 10277 E. Rock Creek Lane 520.824.2500 Wine Club Events Only LAWRENCE DUNHAM VINEYARDS 13922 S. Kuykendall Cutoff Rd. 602.320.1485 LawrenceDunhamVineyards.com M-Sa: 8:30-4, Sun 10-3 GOLDEN RULE VINEYARDS 3649 N. Golden Rule Road 520.507.2400 GoldenRuleVineyards.com

By Appointment Only FLYING LEAP VINEYARDS: BISBEE TASTING ROOM 67 Main St. Bisbee 520.384.6030 Wed, Thur & Sun, Noon to 6pm Friday & Saturday, Noon to 8pm

12/19/14 6:00 AM

Matt Cook/SILVERIMAGE

Makers of

Agua Chiltepin™

A spicy, healthy tonic, mixer and cooking ingredient hand made in Bisbee TioCeddy.com

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FORK IN THE ROAD

The Way to Sotol Exploring Chihuahua’s little-known distilled spirit.

Text and photography by Bill Steen

T

hroughout Tucson, flourishing in private and commercial landscapes, in roadway medians and parking lots, grows an evergreen plant with thin, serrated leaves. Some call it a yucca, but a yucca it is not, nor is it an agave. The plant, Dasylirion wheeleri, known as desert spoon in English and sereque in the state of Chihuahua, Mexico, belongs to the lily family, or Liliaceae.

In the wild, desert spoon grows on rocky hillsides in places like southeastern Arizona and New Mexico, parts of Texas, and the Mexican states of Chihuahua, Coahuila, and Durango, at altitudes of about 2,500 to 6,000 feet. It is primarily a grassland species that is extremely tolerant of cold, heat, and drought.

For thousands of years, native peoples have produced a fermented beverage from the cooked hearts of the plant. Pre-colonial, stone-lined baking pits can be found scattered through the mountainous areas of Chihuahua, including at the ruins of Paquimé, in Casas Grandes.

Unlike Mexico’s other distilled spirits—tequila, mescal, and bacanora—which are produced from agave plants, a distilled spirit called sotol is made from the desert spoon, which is a member of the lily family. Sotol has long been a favorite drink in mountain towns of Chihuahua, northern Durango, and Coahuila, as well as remote areas of eastern Sonora.

Incidentally, desert spoon is a very versatile plant that grows extremely well in virtually every part of southern Arizona and Sonora. Although sotol has traditionally been made in Chihua-

hua rather than in Baja Arizona, the desert spoon plant is an excellent candidate to grow and distill in Baja Arizona.

Keep in mind that in Mexico, sotol has domination of origin status, which means it can only be called sotol when it is produced in the states of Chihuahua, Durango, and Coahuila. So you can’t use the name sotol for any distilled spirit made from desert spoon produced outside of those areas— but you can still distill it.

The first step in getting to know a product is to taste it. Until recently, this was difficult, as sotol wasn’t made commercially until two companies, Don Cuco and Hacienda de Chihuahua, starting bottling sotol for export.

While both distilleries use wild-harvested plants to make their sotol, they both have conservation programs to ensure the continued survival of the plant in the wild.

At Don Cuco, Celso Jacquez and his son, Jacob, are still using the same techniques to bake, ferment, and distill their sotol that have been traditionally used in the mountain towns of Chihuahua for centuries. In contrast, the makers of the Hacienda Sotol use more modern techniques that resemble those used by most producers of tequila.

The product lines from both companies can be found in Tucson—head to Plaza Liquors for a taste.

Find your way to Sotol Drive, located at the entrance to Rancho Guadalupana and the Don Cuco Distillery.

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Up close and personal: Dasylirion wheeleri, or desert spoon

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Bar & Restaurant SATURDAY JAZZ

7-10PM

Now serving Sunday Brunch COCKTAILS & DINNER Downtown Gem - Uptown Comfort Food Garden Patios 198 West Cushing Street 路 622-7984 路 CushingStreet.com

watercolor by W. H. Cook

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At Rancho Guadalupana, the home of the Don Cuco distillery in Janos, Chihuahua, a worker uproots a desert spoon plant from the ground, leaving the main part of the root, the metastem, in place; this allows the plant to resprout, sometimes with two plants instead of one. Once the plant has been uprooted, the leaves are removed with an axe. Above, worker Jacob Jacquez throws the cabezas, the uprooted base of the plant, on top of the heated rocks in the pit.

Don Cuco

A

t the R ancho G uadalupana , in the town of Janos in northern Chihuahua, the Jacquez family is producing Sotol under the labels of Don Cuco Sotol and Ocho Cientos Sotol, with the latter sold primarily for export. Celso Jacquez’s grandfather, Don Refugio Perez, also known as Don Cuco, started the distillery in 1984. Since then, it has remained a family business that now spans five generations. Their artisanal sotol embodies centuries of culture, livelihood, and relationship to the environment by the local people of the region.

In some ways, their products are reminiscent of the smoky quality of Oaxacan mezcals and Sonora’s bacanora, but the taste is distinctly sotol, capturing the true flavor of the plant. Traditionally produced sotol has a marvelous complexity of flavors and aromas rarely found in tequilas.

I lack the vocabulary to describe distilled spirits as professionals do; I have little or no experience when it comes to recognizing the scents of dry river stones, ocean breezes, and hints of fruit or spice. However, much of my life has been spent sampling back-country mescals and bacanora in the Sonoran countryside and I think I can say that I recognize quality when I find it.

Should you like to visit the distillery, Celso and family are very hospitable and open to visitors. They offer rooms for rent and own a small motel nearby for overflow groups. There are several different ways to get to Janos, which is about 200 miles from Tucson; the shortest is via Douglas. Pueblo Partners of Tucson is the importer of their products. DonCucoSotol.com.

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Workers deliver a load of plants for baking to the Hacienda de Chihuahua Distillery in Delicias, Chihuahua. Hacienda de Chihuahua plants two sotol plants in their nursery for every one harvested in the wild. After about six years, plants are considered mature enough to make sotol. Inside the distillery, resting vats hold clear sotol; the wooden barrels remain from when the distillery produced brandy. Quality control engineer Jesus Gallardo prepares for a tasting.

Hacienda de Chihuahua

“L

ik e T equila ? Love Sotol” is the slogan used by Vinomex, the producer of the sotol sold under the label Hacienda de Chihuahua. Using modern production methods, they produce a sotol that is more refined than the traditional sotol of the region.

The distillery, located in Delicias, Chihuahua, originally produced brandy under the guidance of a master distiller, Jose Daumas Gil, who holds a masters’ degree from the world-renowned École Nationale Supérieure Agronomique in Montpellier, France, and whose résumé includes a cast of well-respected brands such as Martell, Larsen & Moet. When brandy production stopped in Chihuahua, he began producing sotol.

Gil oversees a state of the art production process; the plants are cooked in steam-heated ovens, fermented with champagne

yeast, and distilled in a reflux column still. All of their products are of very fine quality, smooth, flavorful, and despite their purity, are rich with sotol flavor.

Like the Don Cuco products, the Hacienda sotols are organic and kosher, but have the distinction of bearing the USDA organic seal. The beautifully packaged Hacienda line features seven sotol products.

Jose Daumas Gil recommends sipping sotol by itself rather than in a cocktail so as to fully appreciate its understated complexity. And if you must, he suggests chasing the sotol with a fruited beverage. VinoMex.com.mx. ✜ Bill Steen and his wife, Athena, are founders of The Canelo Project, a nonprofit organization in Santa Cruz County dedicated to “connecting people, culture, and nature.”

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New & Used Bikes Repairs & Custom Design

311 E. 7th St. 520.622.6487 OrdinaryBikeShop.com

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INK

Book Reviews by Molly Kincaid

A

h,

southern Food.

Celebrated for its pork-fat-laden, bourbon-scented decadence and reviled for its artery-clogging tendencies. While the South is geographically far from Baja Arizona, many of the same vegetables thrive in both regions: okra, green tomatoes, sweet potatoes, winter and summer squash, and heaps of winter greens. As a Southern transplant here in Tucson, I find myself The Edible South: The Power of Food returning to the recipes and the Making of an American Region of my youth frequently,

By Marcie Cohen Ferris (The Uni- so it seemed apt to review versity of North Carolina Press, a few recent books focused on Southern food.

2014) In her new book, The Edible South, Marcie Cohen Ferris approaches the complex history of Southern food from an anthropological perspective, telling its story through historical vignettes. Through meticulous research, she points out that Southern cuisine represents a rich history of culinary innovations and ingenious uses of meager resources; indeed, its recipes and classic dishes were often developed by oppressed and unsung slaves.

This isn’t a cookbook. Instead, Ferris tells the tale of the South based on what was on the supper table. She begins with the first inhabitants, nomadic hunter-gatherer tribes who arrived in the region at least 13,000 years ago, followed by the southeastern Mississippian peoples who relied heavily on corn. The arrival of the first Europeans in the South (the colonizers of Jamestown) was marked by a culinary exchange between settlers and the Algonquins, but it was also rife with racism and exploitation of Native people and their land.

Ferris moves chronologically through the following eras. The antebellum South was a time of lavish entertaining and overindulgence—the cooking done mostly by slave women, who shaped the region’s cuisine indelibly. Wealthy slaveholding families often raised their own hogs, poultry, dairy cows, cattle for beef, imported rice from South Carolina’s Low Country, and grew their own sweet potatoes, greens, and other vegetables.

Cooking methods practiced by enslaved African-Americans often had their roots in Africa itself. For example, Ruth Hastings, a northerner who moved South to be a governess on a Carolina plantation, wrote to her family that a proper bowl of rice appeared “white, dry, and every grain separate,” rather than the watery, porridgey rice typically served up North. This mirrored the West African practice of cooking rice through steaming and absorption, leaving a crispy brown skin on the pot (which was discarded in those days).

Then came the war, during which almost no one was spared the threat of meager rations and starvation. One Union strategy was to cut off the South’s food source, resulting in riots and looting, and widespread malnourishment. African-American soldiers fighting for the Union received less pay and inferior food than their white counterparts, often subsisting on “meat tea,” or weak broth. Confederate soldiers and much of the Southern populace resorted to eating mule, rats, and cats and dogs. Only a Southerner would take mule and make “boiled mule bacon and poke greens,” “mule foot jelly,” and “mule tongue ‘Cold à la Bray.’”

Such lean times shaped much of the modern Southern table.

Even after the Civil War and Reconstruction, most Southerners subsisted on the “three M’s”—meat, meal, and molasses. Cornmeal represented a staple of the Southern diet, and was normally served as a simple “pone” or porridge. The meat was either bacon or lard—most Southerners rarely ate any fresh meat or fish. Finally, blackstrap molasses—full of iron, copper, manganese, and potassium—provided nutrients in lean times.

Booker T. Washington—a champion of African-Americans disenfranchised by the Jim Crow laws—was instrumental in researching dietary problems in the South. Research under his direction at Tuskegee Institute revealed that the “three M’s” diet was linked to many health problems among African-Americans and poor whites, and that the problem was linked to an economic system that favored rich white landholders.

Research is woven alongside humorous anecdotes, like that of Carol Ruth, a young woman from Boston who first encountered Southern cuisine after she was put in jail for her participation in the Freedom Rides—she wrote in her journal about the “light and hot” biscuits served behind bars.

Ferris is careful to explore honestly the racism and power struggle that shaped the region, and to give credit where credit is due in the development of southern food. Her extensive research and use of first-person accounts add zest and humor to the historical narrative.

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pre-k through 8th grade

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“W

hat I cook is who I am,” writes Edward Lee, a Korean-American cook who grew up in Brooklyn before becoming one of the South’s top chefs as the proprietor of 610 Magnolia in Louisville, Kentucky.

As a youngster, Lee fancied himself a graffiti artist, but he always had an appreciation for ethnic foods.

He ate everything from his grandmother’s Korean Smoke and Pickles: Recipes and Stories food to fried plantains from a New Southern Kitchen By Ed- with ketchup and honey at his Puerto Rican friends’ ward Lee (Artisan Books, 2013) house. He learned to cook in New York City, but fell in love with the South when he moved to Kentucky in 2003.

“I had to reinvent my identity, both culinary and personal, through the lens of tobacco and bourbon and sorghum and horse racing and country ham,” he writes. And yet, many Southern foods reminded him of his grandmother’s Asian kitchen. “Soft grits remind me of congee; jerky of cuttlefish; chowchow of kimchee.”

Lee has a deep romance with his adopted home. “Something is simmering wildly through the American South,” he croons, noting the many confluences between Southern and Asian fare. His Korean forefathers loved pickling, and so do Southerners. Smoky flavors also connect the two cuisines, and Lee delights in adding bourbon and smoked country ham to pump up the smoke factor of his dishes.

How does such a unique blend of Southern and Asian fare pan out? If you asked Lee, “What do you cook?” he might reply with a cliché: “Soil to Mouth, Local-Global, New Asian, New Southern, New Anything.” But you’d be better served checking out his recipes: Togarashi Cheesecake; Creamed Corn and Mushroom Congee; Collards and Kimchee; and Southern Fried Rice all unite his two main influences.

Lee also preserves some of the more classic American fusion techniques from his days cooking at swanky haunts in New York City. His Orange Lamb-Liver Pâté, for example, is topped with braised mustard seeds. His steak tartare is accompanied by strawberry ketchup.

Occasionally, Lee will veer into a different cuisine entirely, though usually roping in a bit of Asian or Southern flair. His Kimchee Poutine makes use of homemade red cabbage-bacon kimchee. His recipe for ropa vieja uses soy sauce and is served with Carolina red rice.

But Lee’s bottom line is staying true to the South’s traditional cuisine. Reading Smoke and Pickles in tandem with The Edible South highlighted this point. Lee’s Cornbread, Sorghum and Buttermilk Ice Cream Milkshake makes use of one of the “three M’s” that has made up the Southern diet for centuries. And Lee’s recipe for An Imperfect Bowl of Rice, with a crispy brown crust sounds a lot

like the bowl that Ruth Hastings described during the antebellum South. But Lee recommends eating the crispy brown crust, just like a bowl of bibimbap, a signature Korean dish.

I

n contr ast to Edward Lee’s transition into Southern cuisine, Sean Brock is “as country as a turnip green.” He grew up in rural western Virginia, where Brock claims everyone has a kitchen garden and reveres homemade food, out of both tradition and necessity.

From his humble beginnings, Brock has become a star in the food universe, with his well-reviewed Charleston restaurant Husk. He also appears alongside David Chang on PBS’s The Mind of a Chef, Heritage By Sean Brock where he imbibes with Chang (Artisan Books, 2014) at the Pappy Van Winkle distillery, chronicles the Southern tradition of preserving foods (pickling, fermenting, and curing), and sports a hat that says “Make Cornbread, Not War.” He may look like a good ole boy, but Brock’s first cookbook is an elegant and beautifully styled tome, reflecting the refined spin he puts on Southern food. The only complaint a home chef might have is that some of these recipes are just a little too frou frou. Thirty-Minute Meals, they ain’t. But Brock’s philosophy is that beautiful food takes time and care. For a cook who’s up for a challenge, this book delivers.

Brock’s devotion to seasonal vegetables dictates that certain recipes can only be made when those veggies are in season. The morels in his Quail Stuffed with Morels and Cornbread must be foraged in the Southern wilds only in spring, and after a recent rain.

Some of his recipes, though, are more accessible to cooks everywhere. The Slow-Cooked Pork Shoulder with Tomato Gravy, Creamed Corn, and Roasted Vidalia Onions uses humble ingredients and the brilliantly lazy low-and-slow cooking technique common in Southern cooking. Farrotto with Acorn Squash and Red Russian Kale will be a go-to recipe for this Tucsonan all winter. Pickled Shrimp with Cilantro and Fennel is dead simple, and the classic Charleston dish makes great picnic fare. Brock’s chapter on “Saving Up” instructs on classic Southern techniques of preserving; tomato jam, bread and butter pickles, and pickled okra are necessary staples of the Southern table.

Even if you can’t find the ingredients for all of Brock’s dishes, his book is a feast for the eyes and senses, and offers insight into the philosophy of one of the most creative chefs in the South today. ✜

Molly Kincaid is a Tucsonan who is obsessed with tinkering in the kitchen and reading cookbooks. Her favorite foods are, paradoxically, kale and pork belly.

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Edible Baja Arizona

wants to

HEAR from

YOU

This is the 10th issue of Edible Baja Arizona! We hope you’ve met some interesting people, doing amazing things, in our pages.

Now, we’d like to know more about you!

Please, take about 10 minutes to complete our Reader Survey at:

ediblebajaarizona.com/survey All entries received by February 15th, 2015 will be entered into a drawing for the following prizes!

Two nights at the incredible La Posada del Rio Sonora Hotel in historic Banamachi, Sonora (just five hours from Tucson)

Two nights in Bisbee at the Inn at Castle Rock, a movie for two and a bottle of wine at the Bisbee Royale, and dinner at Café Roka

A night for two at the historic Triangle T Guest Ranch in Dragoon, Arizona

A night at Poston House Inn in Tubac, and dinner for two at Elvira’s

Lots of pairs of tickets to the Loft Cinema, memberships in the Museum of Contemporary Art, and gift certificates to Downtown Kitchen + Cocktails

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This SOURCE GUIDE is an annotated directory of our advertisers. Many of our advertisers are also distribution outlets where you can find a complimentary copy of the magazine. Our incredible advertisers are the reason we can provide this publication at no cost. Please make it a point to patronize them often and let them know how much you appreciate their support of Edible Baja Arizona and the local food and drink economy. Baja Arizona towns and cities are noted if the business is not located in Tucson.

Dining & Drink Guide Restaurants, Cafés, & Bars in Baja Arizona CENTRAL BEYOND BREAD Locally-owned and operated since 1998, we offer a variety of hand-crafted breads, delicious sandwiches, house-made soups, fresh salads and decadent pastries—all in a comfortable and friendly environment.

We make just about everything from scratch, using only the finest ingredients. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner. 3026 North Campbell Avenue 520.322.9965 BeyondBread.com KINGFISHER An American bar and grill specializing in regional cuisine from across the U.S. Specializing in several varieties of fin fish, shellfish, and oysters. Great intimate bar with happy hours and late night menus every day. 2564 East Grant Road 520.323.7739 KingfisherTucson.com PREP & PASTRY We are a modern American eatery. Serving breakfast, lunch, and brunch. All food and drinks are prepared with fresh ingredients, locally sourced. 3073 North Campbell Avenue 520.326.7737 PrepAndPastry.com DOWNTOWN, UNIVERSITY & THE SUNSHINE MILE 1702 A pizzeria, and craft beer extravaganza. On tap, 46 craft beers from all over the 50 states and world complements our fresh, hand-tossed pizza made with the best ingredients. 1702 East Speedway Boulevard 520.325.1702 1702AZ.com 4TH AVENUE DELICATESSEN Proudly serving Boar’s Head meats and cheeses, as well as Vero’s Bakery bread (locally owned). Come for the sandwich, stay for the pickle! 425 North 4th Avenue 520.624.3354 4thAveDeli.com BOCA TACOS Tacos with attitude! Happy hour daily 3pm to 6pm. Come explore with us on Exotic Taco Wednesday.

Catering services available. 828 East Speedway Boulevard 520.777.8134 CAFE A LA C’ART Enjoy your breakfast, lunch, or dinner in a casual atmosphere and surrounded by fine art. Try our famous desserts (with gluten free choices!). Join us at the historic Stevens House at the Museum of Art, or al fresco on the brick patio. Catering is also available. 150 North Main Avenue 520.628.8533 CafeALaCartTucson.com CAFE PASSÉ Dedicated to serving great coffee and coffee drinks, locally-sourced organic food whenever possible, craft cocktails and an eclectic beer menu. It is also home to Tucson’s best patio and biergarten with a patio bar. Live music and local art. 415 North 4th Avenue 520.624.4411 CafePasse.com CAFFE MILANO Led by the prestigious Italian chef Fulvia Steffenone (known as La Fufi) Caffe Milano offers a wide range of authentic Italian dishes: not only the classic pasta with tomato and meat sauce, but also the delicious salmon in foil, surprising salads, and fragrant rustic soups.

They also offer classic Italian cooking classes led by La Fufi herself. Call for more information. 46 West Congress Street 520.628.1601 LaFufiCaffeMilano.com

CARUSO’S ITALIAN RESTAURANT Offering fine homemade Italian Food located in the historic 4th Avenue district. Pasta, pizza and Italian Specialties • continuously served by four generations of the Zagona family since 1938. 434 North 4th Avenue 520.624.5765 CarusosItalian.com

FROG AND FIRKIN A locally-owned bar and restaurant right outside the University of Arizona campus Main Gate.

Please come by, sit on the liveliest patio in town, and watch the world go by! Live music Thursday-Sunday evenings! DELIVERY AVAILABLE. 874 East University Boulevard 520.623.7507 FrogAndFirkin.com

CHE’S LOUNGE Cheap drinks, great art, great jukebox.

Never a cover. Bringing the awesome since 2000. 350 North 4th Avenue 520.623.2088 ChesLounge.com

GOOD OAK BAR A celebration of Arizona. We focus on serving exceptional craft beer, fine wines, and great food directly from Arizona. 316 East Congress 520.882.2007 GoodOakBar.com

THE CORONET Brasserie-style restaurant, old world rustic cuisine, cute bar, quiet music, big patio with good shade, outstanding coffee. 402 East 9th Street on the corner of Fourth Avenue and 9th. 520.222.9889 CafeCoronet.com DELECTABLES International selections in a casual atmosphere. Breakfast, lunch, dinner, & late night menus.

Dog-friendly patio dining. Live music every Friday & Saturday. Full bar, excellent wine list, and homemade desserts.

Vegan & gluten-free menus. Catering. 533 North 4th Avenue 520.884.9289 DIABLO BURGER Named America’s Best Burger in USA Today, Diablo Burger is a local foods-based burger joint serving 100% grass-fed, hormone-free and antibiotic-free, open range raised beef. “All about local” and totally committed to enhancing the connection of people committed to place through local foods. 312 East Congress Street 520.882.2007 DiabloBurger.com DOWNTOWN KITCHEN & COCKTAILS Innovative farmto-table cooking with global influences & killer cocktails from James Beard Award winner Janos Wilder in an artfilled, urban setting with roomy outdoor patio. Dinner, happy hour, bar menu seven nights a week and late night Friday & Saturday. 135 South 6th Avenue 520.623.7700 DowntownKitchen.com EXO ROAST COMPANY We seek out the world’s finest coffees, craft roast them in small batches and extract them manually at our “slow bar.” Visit our cafe in a minimalist, historic setting and enjoy one of our “regionally inspired” coffee drinks using locally-sourced chiltepin, mesquite and mole. 7am-6pm, everyday. Free educational cupping Saturdays at 1pm. 403 North 6th Avenue 520.777.4709 ExoCoffee.com FALORA In the historic Joesler-built Broadway Village, Falora builds pizzas & salads anchored in tradition with a sharply creative angle. Ingredients are simple, fresh; imported from Italy or sourced from local farms. Lunch & dinner. Charming patio or cozy interior. 3000 East Broadway Boulevard 520.325.9988 Falora.com FLYCATCHER A bar and live music venue, Flycatcher is dedicated to live local, regional, national, and international touring music acts. Formerly Plush Tucson. 340 East 6th Street 520.207.9251 TheFlyCatcherTucson.com FOOD FOR ASCENSION CAFÉ A new paradigm of sustaining community by providing pure food through fair systems that interact together and support a vibrant life, community, and self with the ultimate intention of reconnecting our body, mind, and soul. 330 East 7th Street 520.882.4736 FoodForAscension.org

HUB RESTAURANT & CREAMERY Enjoy American comfort food, downtown made ice cream, and over 20 craft beers on draft. Located on historic Congress Street in downtown Tucson. Plenty of downtown parking and the SunLink streetcar route right outside our doors, a night on the town or dinner with the family is not only fun, but easy.

266 East Congress Street 520.207.8201 HubDowntown.com LA COCINA RESTAURANT, CANTINA & COFFEE BAR We care deeply for our community and strive to provide a gathering place for all. Tucson musicians take the stage most days of the week. Our cantina pours local beer and we support our local farmers and ranchers. 201 North Court Avenue 520.365.3053 LaCocinaTucson.com LINDY’S ON 4TH AVENUE If punk rock, heavy metal, Sinatra, tattoos, hotrods, choppers, low riders, a lazy Sunday afternoon, hot ladies, and the man’s man were all put into a burger that was so good you’d slap your mama, that’s what we’re servin’ up in this place. 431 North 4th Avenue 520.207.6970 LO4th.com MAMA’S HAWAIIAN BAR-B-QUE Whether you are a weary Wildcat looking for some cheap eats near campus or out for dinner with the family you will be sure to find something you like on our menu. Open late. We Deliver. 800 East Speedway Boulevard 520.792.2350 MamasHawaiianBBQ.com MARTIN’S COMIDA CHINGONA Nestled right on 4th Avenue, Martin’s is fun, casual and independent. Martin’s serves traditional Mexican food with awesome interpretations by chef/owner Martin Fontes. 557 North 4th Avenue 520.884.7909 MAYNARDS MARKET & KITCHEN We established the first downtown market and paired it with a charismatic restaurant & bar. Both are fueled by a passion for celebrating the best of place, product, and service. 400 North Toole Avenue 520.545.0577 MaynardsMarket.com MISS SAIGON DOWNTOWN Each dish is re-created with the same recipes Grandma passed down. This is authentic Vietnamese, home-style cooking, with a warm and inviting ambience. 47 North 6th Avenue 520.884.4778 MissSaigon-Tucson.com PENCA Mexico City cuisine and international bar located in the heart of downtown Tucson. December 2013, Food & Wine magazine named Penca “one of America’s best bars.” 50 East Broadway Boulevard 520.203.7681 PencaRestaurante.com

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PIZZERIA BIANCO James Beard Award winner Chris Bianco now has a location in downtown Tucson featuring his famous pizza. 272 East Congress 520.838.0818 PizzeriaBianco.com PLANET SMOOTHIE We bring two fabulous worlds together…Real Fruit Smoothies & Self Serve Frozen Yogurt, in two charming and upbeat atmospheres: Oro Valley & Downtown Tucson. Open 7 days week serving Organic Acai Bowls, Gluten Free Pastries, Homemade Belgian Waffles, & Marley Coffee. Blending 7am to late night. 7315 N. Oracle Rd., and 345 East Congress Street.

PlanetSmoothie.com PLAYGROUND BAR & LOUNGE In the heart of historic Downtown Tucson on the corner of Congress St. and 5th Avenue. Whether you’re looking for the ultimate spot to watch the game, meet up with friends for some late-night dining, or looking to dance the night away on Tucson’s largest ROOFTOP dance floor with our VIP Bottle Service, Playground Bar & Lounge is the place to be! 278 East Congress Street 520.396.3691 PlaygroundTucson.com PROPER A casual, urban dining establishment serving contemporary, farm to table cuisine. Brunch daily from 9am-3pm. Dinner nightly from 5pm-10pm. Happy hour Monday through Friday 3-6pm. Late night seven days a week, 10pm-midnight. 300 East Congress Street 520.396.3357 ProperTucson.com

TUCSON TAMALE COMPANY More than 30 different kinds of incredible tamales. Mild to spicy, meaty to vegan, savory to sweet, we have just about every kind of tamale you can think of and then some! GMO-free masa! 2545 East Broadway Boulevard 520.305.4760 TucsonTamale.com WILKO A modern gastropub featuring inventive classic American comfort food in the Main Gate district at Park & University. Everything is prepared on site. We use local, organic ingredients whenever possible. More than 30 wines by the glass, 11 quality brews on tap, and a craft cocktail bar. Check out our artisan cheeses and salume.

943 East University Boulevard 520.792.6684 BarWilko.com EAST BEYOND BREAD Locally-owned and operated since 1998, offering hand-crafted breads, delicious sandwiches, house-made soups, fresh salads, and decadent pastries in a comfortable and friendly environment. We make just about everything from scratch, using only the finest ingredients. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner. 6260 East Speedway Boulevard 520.747.7477 BeyondBread.com

R BAR Join us for a drink at R Bar, the Rialto’s 7-night-a-week bar. Great drinks, great times, no unicorns. Because they don’t exist. 350 East Congress Street, Suite 110 520.305.3599 RBarTucson.com

SOURCE GUIDE

TASTEFUL KITCHEN Modern vegetarian cuisine creatively prepared, farm to table fresh. We showcase regional heritage foods infused with Southwestern sauces and flavorings. Everything from scratch using whole foods, local organic when available, and few processed ingredients.

Dine in, take out, weekly meals to go, boutique catering, cooking classes, and a private function room. Dinner is served Tuesday through Saturday 5pm-9pm. Free parking. Reservations recommended. 722 North Stone Avenue 520.250.9600 TheTastefulKitchen.com TIME MARKET A historic neighborhood market that includes the best bread in Tucson (baked daily), incredible wood-fired pizza, a fantastic organic produce section, outstanding wines and beer, and a beer and wine bar with a patio. See our listing under markets, too. 444 East University Boulevard 520.622.0761 TOOLEY’S CAFE Fresh baked goods, scones, chocolate chip cookies, turkey tacos, killer mailman burro, pulled pork burro, posole, a great Mexican breakfast, limeade, and great organic coffee! 299 South Park Avenue 520.203.8970

TUCSON TAMALE COMPANY More than 30 different kinds of incredible tamales. Mild to spicy, meaty to vegan, savory to sweet, we have just about every kind of tamale you can think of and then some! GMO-free masa! 7153 East Tanque Verde Road 520.238.8404 TucsonTamale.com ZONA 78 Tucson’s premiere destination for artisan pizza, Italian specialties, and an eclectic selection of wine, beer, & spirits. Zona 78 sources many ingredients locally and has an in-house charcuterie. 7301 East Tanque Verde Road 520.296.7878 Zona78.com

GREEN VALLEY, SAGUAROITA

ROCCO’S LITTLE CHICAGO PIZZERIA Real Chicago Pizza, right around the corner! Since 1998 Rocco DiGrazia has been serving perennially award-winning pizzas, buffalo wings, and chocolate chip cookies on Broadway’s Sunshine Mile. Check out our gigantic beer selection, too.

You’ll agree it’s a HELLUVA pie! 2707 East Broadway Boulevard 520.321.1860 RoccosLittleChicago.com

SURLY WENCH Established 2004. Late night kitchen featuring fresh, never frozen beef and homegrown herbs.

Delicious burgers, tacos, and more. Full bar. Black Cherry Burlesque, live music, DJs, billiards, air hockey, arcade, foosball, darts. Daily happy hour & nightly drink specials.

424 North 4th Avenue 520.882.0009 SurlyWench.com

THE SCREAMERY Hand Crafted Ice Cream pasteurized on-site with all natural ingredients to provide an old fashioned solution to modern day ice cream flavors.

Its ice cream base is from the freshest cream and milk from Strauss Family Creamery out of California. Their cows only eat grass and are not treated with any hormones. 50 South Houghton Road Suite 120 520.721.5299 TheScreamery.com

VERO AMORE Authentic Neapolitan Pizza Certified authentic by Italy’s renowned Verace Pizza Napoletana, Vero Amore features fresh, handcrafted wood-fired Neapolitan pizza, pasta, panini, salad, dessert, and daily specials, made with the highest quality ingredients. Vegetarian and gluten-free dishes always available. Open daily with two locations and mobile Pizza Truck for parties and events. Lunch, dinner, full bar, happy hour, catering, private Parties. 2920 North Swan Road 520.325.4122 VeroAmorePizza.com

REILLY CRAFT PIZZA & DRINK Offering reasonably priced modern Italian food in a casual urban setting. Our menu features artisan hand-made pizzas, as well as craft drinks. We also offer fresh baked sandwiches for lunch and fresh hand-made pastas for dinner. 101 East Pennington Street 520.882.5550 ReillyPizza.com

SPARKROOT A cornerstone of a burgeoning downtown, Sparkroot serves up Blue Bottle Coffee & vegetarian fare with flair, in a striking atmosphere. Vibrant community flavor, morning through evening. Great meeting spot; you can even reserve our loft! Beer, wine, & killer Irish coffee. 245 East Congress 520.623.4477 Sparkroot.com

RENEE’S ORGANIC OVEN Serving creative and traditional pizzas and so much more. We offer a casual space for you to enjoy a menu filled with local and organic ingredients. Everything we do is made possible by our connection to great people and we would love to add you to our mix. Happy hour, dine-in, take-out. Reservations encouraged, but walk-ins welcome. 7065 East Tanque Verde Road 520.886.0484 ReneesOrganicOven.com

MAMA’S HAWAIIAN BAR-B-QUE Whether you are a weary Wildcat looking for some cheap eats near campus or out for dinner with the family you will be sure to find something you like on our menu.

Open late. We Deliver. 15990 South Rancho Sahuarita Boulevard, Rancho Sahuarita 520.207.8187 MamasHawaiianBBQ.com NORTH, CATALINA FOOTHILLS

JACKSON TAVERN New England inspired restaurant and bar located at Plaza Palomino. Classic tavern fare from Chef Virginia ‘Ginny’ Wooters along with modern classic twists that Metzger Family Restaurant have come to be known for. 2900 North Swan Road Suite 100 520.219.1235 JacksonTavern.com LE BUZZ CAFFE A one-of-a-kind hangout popular with cyclists, climbers, and locals with great in-house roasted coffee, full espresso bar, sublime baked goods, hearty breakfast, soups, salads, panini, and quiches. The Le Buzz “house cookie” is worth the trip alone. 9121 East Tanque Verde Road 520.749.3903 LeBuzzCaffe.com MAMA’S HAWAIIAN BAR-B-QUE Whether you are a weary Wildcat looking for some cheap eats near campus or out for dinner with the family you will be sure to find something you like on our menu. Open late. We Deliver. 6310 East Tanque Verde Road 520.770.7800 MamasHawaiianBBQ.com PITA JUNGLE “The Art of Eating Healthy.” Mediterranean-inspired dishes made from scratch daily with the freshest ingredients. The menu is based on offering a healthy and natural cuisine abounding with vegetarian and vegan options. Catering available. 5340 East Broadway Boulevard 520.207.6873 PitaJungle.com

ACACIA Located in the Catalina foothills, Acacia offers an exquisite panoramic view of Tucson and features award-winning cuisine by chef Albert Hall. Fresh natural and local ingredients lovingly prepared in the friendliest and most comfortable setting in Tucson. Join us for lunch, dinner, Sunday brunch, and happy hour daily. 3001 East Skyline Drive 520.232.0101 AcaciaTucson.com ARMITAGE WINE BAR & LOUNGE The setting changes character as the night lengthens, with its Old World ambiance and intimate conversation areas providing a relaxing setting for lunch, dinner, weekend brunch, or winding down after the workday. As the evening progresses, the lights dim and the music picks up tempo, transforming into an energized nightspot. 2905 East Skyline Drive 520.682.9740 ArmitageWine.com CONTIGO Innovative and modern Latin Cuisine. We respect yet redefine contemporary Latin American and Spanish cooking with pan-Latin fare incorporating flavors from Peru, Brazil, Mexico, Cuba and Spain, excellent specialty cocktails and fine wines from around the world.

1745 East River Road 520.299.1730 EatAtContigo.com NORTH ITALIA Our love letter to Italy. Handmade pasta and pizza: every day, we start from scratch to create dishes like Strozzapreti with Bloomsdale spinach or supple ribbons of tagliatelle for our Bolognese. With the spirit of the Italian taverna, North is the place to talk shop over a cocktail or swap gossip sharing delectable chef creations. La Encantada, 2995 East Skyline Drive 520.299.1600 NorthItaliaRestaurant.com

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ZONA 78 Tucson’s premiere destination for artisan pizza, Italian specialties, and an eclectic selection of wine, beer, & spirits. Zona 78 sources many ingredients locally and has an in-house charcuterie. 78 West River Road 520.888.7878 Zona78.com

WEST 4 SEASONS RESTAURANT Serving high quality and affordable Chinese, Thai, and American plates. Located off highway 10 & Miracle Mile. Enjoy a new relaxed atmosphere, patio seating, and great food. Open 7 days a week starting at 6 am. 1423 West Miracle Mile Road 520.882.4212 4Seasonsaz.com

NORTHWEST TUCSON, ORO VALLEY & MARANA

AGUSTIN KITCHEN Three-time Iron Chef winner Ryan Clark’s Agustin Kitchen is a twist on new American and classic French cuisine, with an emphasis on local ingredients. 100 South Avenida del Convento 520.398.5382 AgustinKitchen.com

BEYOND BREAD Locally-owned and operated since 1998, we offer a variety of hand-crafted breads, delicious sandwiches, house-made soups, fresh salads, and decadent pastries—all in a comfortable and friendly environment.

We make just about everything from scratch, using only the finest ingredients. Breakfast, lunch and dinner. 421 West Ina Road 520.461.1111 BeyondBread.com

COYOTE PAUSE CAFE Comfort food with a Southwestern twist! Menu inspired by local desert foods. Breakfast & lunch 730am-230pm. Omelets, salads, sandwiches, vegetarian choices, beer, wine. In Cat Mountain Station shopping center, unique art, antiques, buy-sell-trade fashion.

Arts & Crafts Fair December 7th, Sale December 21st! 2740 South Kinney Road 520.883.7297 CoyotePauseCafe.com

GOURMET GIRLS GLUTEN FREE BAKERY/BISTRO Everything is gluten free, from the seasonally-inspired menu to the outstanding selection of handcrafted baked goods. Enjoy house specialties all prepared in a dedicated kitchen with no cross-contamination. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner by reservation. 5845 North Oracle Road 520.408.9000 GourmetGirlsGlutenFree.com

MOTHER HUBBARD’S CAFE Serving contemporary Native American comfort food. Breakfast & lunch only. At the northwest corner of Grant & Stone--just minutes from downtown Tucson. Come taste the love! 7am-2pm, daily.

14 West Grant Road 520.623.7976

GRINGO GRILL + CANTINA A place to relax and enjoy fresh, simple flavors. More than 100 tequilas, hand-crafted cocktails, and seriously delicious food...you’ll always come back for more! Be careful, not many can handle the Desert Ghost Diablo! 5900 North Oracle Road 520.887.3777 GringoGrillTucson.com MAMA’S HAWAIIAN BAR-B-QUE Whether you are a weary Wildcat looking for some cheap eats near campus or out for dinner with the family you will be sure to find something you like on our menu. Open late.

We Deliver. 8300 North Thornydale Road 520.572.5225 MamasHawaiianBBQ.com THE PARISH A southern-fusion gastropub. It draws its inspiration from Louisiana, Texas and Arizona, devoted to comfort, cuisine, hospitality, and community. 6453 North Oracle Road 520.797.1233 TheParishTucson.com PITA JUNGLE “The Art of Eating Healthy”. Mediterranean-inspired dishes made from scratch daily with only the freshest ingredients. The menu is based on offering a healthy and natural cuisine abounding with vegetarian and vegan options. Catering available. 7090 North Oracle Road 520.797.7482 PitaJungle.com SOUTH & BARRIO VIEJO 5 POINTS MARKET & RESTAURANT Bridging South Tucson and downtown, we serve breakfast and lunch. We are also a grocery store and deli. 756 South Stone Avenue 520.623.3888 5PointsTucson.com CAFE DESTA Offering authentic Ethiopian cuisine, great food and great coffee in a relaxing environment. 758 South Stone Avenue 520.370.7000 CUSHING STREET BAR & RESTAURANT Uptown comfort food, garden patios, full bar, and live jazz, have made this 1860s historic landmark a local favorite for 40 years. Book an intimate party in a private dining room or a wedding for 100 guests. Family-owned since 1972. 198 West Cushing Street 520.622.7984 CushingStreet.com EL DORADO RESTAURANT Authentic Mexican cuisine in South Tucson. Where the locals go to eat. 1949 South 4th Avenue 520.622.9171 LOS PORTALES Our mission is to manage the satisfaction of our clients in a family environment where the art and the music merge to the flavor of the Mexican food. 2615 South 6th Avenue 520.889.1170 LosPortalesDeTucson.com SONORAN SNO-CONES Highlights the traditional recipes for sweets made of fresh fruit and natural ingredients, instead of artificial sweeteners. 135 West Ajo Way, Suite A 520.889.0844 SonoranSnoCones.com

SEIS KITCHEN Experience the sights, sounds, and smells of Mexico’s beloved street food at its finest—warm handmade tortillas, hot off the griddle quesadillas, fire-roasted salsas, or artisan tortas, all served Seis Style, inspired from six culinary regions of Mexico. 130 South Avenida del Convento 520.260.6581 SeisKitchen.com SONORAN SNO-CONES Highlights the traditional recipes for sweets made of fresh fruit and natural ingredients, instead of artificial sweeteners. 120 South Avenida del Convento Suite 120, 520.344.8470 SonoranSnoCones.com YOGI’S INDIAN CAFE & MARKET Delicious Indian food & delights! Largest selection of South Asian groceries in Tucson & you’ll love the prices too! Centrally located near UA & downtown. 2537 North Stone Avenue 520.303.3525

SCREAMING BANSHEE PIZZA & WINE BAR A unique, eclectic restaurant housed in a renovated gas station, with lovely front and back patios. We take pride in our hand-crafted, wood-fired pizza, salads, small plates, calzones, and sandwiches. Featuring a full bar, signature cocktails, local beers, and unique wines.

200 Tombstone Canyon Road, Old Bisbee 520.432.1300 ScreamingBansheePizza.net THUY’S NOODLE SHOP Authentic, from scratch Vietnamese food, specializing in pho, a noodle soup—beef or vegan. 9 South Naco Road, Old Bisbee 520.366.4479 WHYLD ASS COFFEE SHOP An organic, plant-based, culture experience. We feature “more than fair trade” coffee. Our restaurant offers healthy, tasty, vegan alternatives that are made with only the finest organic ingredients, mainly locally-sourced. Live music and poetry on weekends. 54 Brewery Avenue 520.353.4004 SONOITA, ELGIN, PATAGONIA OVERLAND TROUT Farm to table restaurant in Sonoita by celebrated chef Greg LaPrad. Dedicated to supporting local and producing quality meals. Lunch, dinner, cocktails.

3266 Highway 82, Sonoita 520.455.9316 OverlandTrout.com TIA NITA’S CANTINA Enjoy your favorite drinks in post-modern bordertown surroundings in Sonoita. Full bar opens at 2pm daily, serving Barrio Brewery beers on tap. Italian kitchen opens for dinner nightly, serving fresh, homemade pizza, wings, sandwiches, and more. Closed Tuesdays. 3119 South Highway 83, Sonoita 520.455.0500 NOGALES LA ROCA Enjoy authentic Sonoran cuisine with the freshest ingredients from Mexico. Take in the rich ambiance of the historic Casa Margot. Visit our unique shops below the restaurant to find local art, hand-crafted home goods, and beautiful clothing. Calle Elias # 94, Nogales (on the Sonora side) LaRocaRestaurant.com TUBAC/ TUMACACORI

BISBEE BISBEE BREAKFAST CLUB The best choice for breakfast in Bisbee, Arizona. Lunch also available. Open 7am3pm every day. 75A Erie Street, Bisbee 520.432.5885 BisbeeBreakfastClub.com CAFÉ CORNUCOPIA Made-from-scratch soups, sandwiches, quiche, and desserts, in the heart of historic Old Bisbee. Open Monday through Tuesday 11am-4pm, Friday through Sunday 11am-4pm. 14 Main Street, Old Bisbee CAFÉ ROKA Celebrating 20+ years of serving the Bisbee community and Baja Arizona. We create a wonderful dining experience for our guests, providing delicious food, beverages, and warm hospitality. Reservations recommended. 35 Main Street, Old Bisbee 520.433.5153 CafeRoka.com CONTESSA’S CANTINA Featuring traditional Mexican food for lunch and dinner. Full bar and live music.

202 Tombstone Canyon Road, Old Bisbee 520.432.6711 ContessasCantina.com HIGH DESERT MARKET Gourmet food, gift market, and cafe. Open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner with indoor and outdoor seating. We do all our baking on premises, serve generous gourmet salads and sandwiches, quiches, pizzas, desserts, and more. 203 Tombstone Canyon, Old Bisbee 520.432.6775 HighDesertMarket.com JIMMY’S HOT DOG COMPANY Jimmy and his wife Pammy use genuine “Vienna Brand” Beef, Hot Dogs, Sausages, even condiments and buns as well as authentic Gonnella Italian Bread, flown in fresh from the northwest side of Chicago for your dining enjoyment. 938 West Highway 92, Bisbee 520.432.5911 MORNINGS CAFE We are a quaint and popular local diner with a friendly atmosphere and familiar faces. Our menu is simple with creative twists and our half-pound burger menu will impress! Hope to see you soon! 420 Arizona Street, Warren (Bisbee) 520.366.1494 MorningsCafeBisbee.com

ELVIRA’S Established in 1927 in Nogales, Sonora, Elvira’s is now in Tubac, bringing you the best Mexican cuisine and award-winning dishes! 2221 East Frontage Road A101, Tubac 520.398.9421 ElvirasRestaurant.com THE GOODS Green smoothies, hearty & healthful bites for breakfast & lunch in the heart of Tubac. Soups, salads, sandwiches, baked goods, organic coffee, & teas + freshly tempered chocolates using healthful and often organic ingredients. Stop in for a cozy respite and a “good” meal.

26A Tubac Road, Tubac 520.398.2001 TheGoodsTubac.com MELIO’S TRATTORIA Amazing view, candelight atmosphere, classic Italian food. 2261 East Interstate 19 Frontage Road, Tubac 520.398.8494 MeliosRistorante.com SHELBY’S BISTRO A southern Arizona restaurant, located in the artistic, historic town of Tubac. We offer Mediterranean-style cuisine. Lunch or dinner, it is a highly enjoyable experience! 19 Tubac Road, Tubac 520.398.8075 ShelbysBistro.com SOTO’S PK OUTPOST Mexican Food, great margaritas, delicious fajitas, and a friendly atmosphere where the customer is #1. 14 Camino Otero, Tubac 520.398.3256 TUBAC JACKS Welcome to Tubac Jack’s Restaurant & Saloon! Discover delicious, authentic Southwestern cuisine infused with our own signature style. 7 Plaza Rd, Tubac 520.398.3161 WISDOM’S CAFE Your neighborhood restaurant for seven decades. Let our family serve your family mouth-watering Mexican food that is lovingly prepared and steeped in tradition. Owned and operated by four generations of the Wisdom family. 1931 East Frontage Road, Tumacocori 520.398.2397 WisdomsCafe.com WISDOM’S DOS! Street tacos, Sonoran dogs, sliders, nachos, burritos, hummus, soup, salads, cheese crisps, and homemade ice cream await you when you want a quick, delicious lunch or want to stop in for drinks and appetizers before dinner. 4 Plaza Road, Suite 102, Tubac 520.216.7664 WisdomsCafe.com/Dos

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TAVOLINO RISTORANTE ITALIONO Specializing in simple, elegant food, Tavolino’s Northern Italian cuisine features fresh salads, homemade pastas, wood-fired pizzas, succulent rotisserie meats, and luscious desserts. Lunch & dinner Monday through Saturday. Happy hour 3-6pm and 9-11pm. 2890 East Skyline Drive 520.531.1913

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FOOD TRUCKS, CATERING, PERSONAL CHEFS BUDDHA’S BOWL Personal Chef Service Offering customized, ready to serve meals to complement your healthy lifestyle. Specializing in Vegan, Paleo, Low Carb, Gluten Free, and Omnivore diets, Affordable, convenient, and delicious. Free consultation. 520.668.9010 BudBwl.com CHEF CHIC CATERING Your answer to your food time dilemma. We are a personal chef service that can handle all of your food needs. Including, prepped meals, table ready meals, special diets, special occasions, parties, catering, desserts, and cooking lessons. 520.406.2757 ChefChicAZ.com

CHEF POLICE Your food has the right to remain tasty. A Personal Chef and Caterer of authentic Caribbean food.

Chef Police focuses on delivering artisan interpretations of cuisine from the Caribbean West Indies & Latin America, with European, African, and Southeast Asian influences. Follow us on Twitter and Instagram @ChefPolice 520.398.6596 ChefPolice.com FOODIE FLEET A high class, high quality, low price mobile eatery in the Tucson area. We feature pressed sandwiches and waffles. We also offer tantalizing sides, and our special homemade sauce, that will keep you coming back for more! We make a concerted effort to source all of our products locally and organically. It is an experience that you’ve never had before. Catering Available. 520.329.3663 FoodieFleet.com

PLANET OF THE CREPES Bringing southern Arizona a modern twist to the French classic, PotC’s award winning crepes range from savory duck breast with fig jam to the decadent fresh strawberry and French custard. Daily specials and rotating locations make this food truck a destination. 520.271.6083 PlanetOfTheCrepes.com ST. ANDREW’S CATERING Led by Deacon Jefferson Bailey (a Tucson culinary icon), this innovative caterer based at St. Andrew’s Espiscopal Church in the historic Armory Park district can do anything, from a locally sourced, organic, multicourse dinner to simply furnishing a pleasant space for an offsite meeting. Proceeds fund the non-profit Neighbors Feeding Neighbors program. 545 South 5th Avenue 520.622.8318

Food & Drink for Home Grocery Resources in Baja Arizona ARTISAN PURVEYORS & DEALERS ALEJANDRO’S TORTILLA FACTORY Corn and flour tortillas, bread, & chips. Look out for our new natural tortillas as well as our chiltepin and other flavored tortillas. Find us at many markets and grocery stores throughout Baja Arizona. 5330 South 12th Avenue, South Tucson 520.889.2279 AlejandroTortilla.com ALFONSO OLIVE OIL A world of flavor, locally owned. We invite you to a unique tasting experience of the freshest, first cold pressed, extra virgin olive oils, and flavored olive oils from around the world, and all natural traditional aged balsamic vinegars from Modena, Italy! “Taste first…buy when the excitement becomes overwhelming.” Central location: 4320 North Campbell Avenue, Oro Valley location: 7854 North Oracle Road 520.441.9081 AlfonsoOliveOil.com BISBEE HOT & SPICY The HOTTEST Place in Arizona. We have over 150 items - - all to tempt your taste buds and blast your head off with heat!! 51 Main Street, Old Bisbee 520.432.4332 BisbeeHotAndSpicy.com BISBEE OLIVE OIL Come visit us in Bisbee and experience everything the town has to offer. We are located in a 111-year-old renovated building and carry 180 different items for sale. With 45 different olive oils and balsamics, there is a flavor for everyone. We also offer free tastings!

8 Brewery Avenue, Old Bisbee 520.432.4645

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BLU—A WINE & CHEESE SHOP There’s a new cheesemonger in town! Tana Fryer of Blu has been crowned “cheesemonger in chief” by Tucson foodies. Also sold in Alfonso Olive Oil locations. 100 South Avenida Del Convento 520.314.8262 BluArizona.com CHERI’S DESERT HARVEST Cheri’s all-natural products are made from fresh fruits and vegetables indigenous to the Sonoran Desert. Only the freshest prickly pear cactus fruit, citrus, honey, sweet peppers, and hot chile peppers are used in her preserves. 1840 East Winsett Street 800.743.1141 CherisDesertHarvest.com DURAZO’S POCO LOCO SPECIALTY SALSAS Fresh fruit salsas with peaches, pineapple, and mangos at three different levels: Mild, Hot and Stupid Hot. Pico De Gallo, Salsa Ranchera (our more traditional), Guacamole, Ceviche with crab, shrimp, and baby clams, and Crab and Shrimp Dip. Find at Heirloom Farmers Markets. 520.884.7178 FERMENTED TEA COMPANY Family run and operated microbrewery of Kombucha which takes love, effort, and a desire to make the best batch, fermented with tea, every time. 520.286.6887 FermentedTeaCompany.com

GRAMMY’S JAMS Grammy offers artisan jams, jellies, chutneys, mustards, and pickles. Habanero Dills, Dilly Beans, Rolling Thunder, and Habanero Jams are favorites. Backyards, our trees, local farms, and orchards provide fruits for Grammy’s special products! Find Grammy’s at Heirloom Farmers Markets. 520.559.1698 Facebook.com/Grammys.AZ HAYDEN FLOUR MILLS A family business working to revive heritage and ancient grains in the desert. We have revived the tradition that started in Tempe, Arizona more than 125 years ago by Charles Hayden and his Hayden Flour Mills. While not milled at the iconic Hayden Flour Mills’ building, our fresh flour harkens back to a time when flour still was full of nutrients and flavor. 4404 North Central Avenue, Phoenix. 480.557.0031 HaydenFlourMills.com REX’S PEROGIES, LLC Making the most delicious traditional Polish Perogies—Handmade pockets of Love. Find us at the Oro Valley Farmers’ Market on Saturday and at the Rillito Park Farmers’ Market on Sunday. For more information call 520.250.1590 QUEEN CREEK OLIVE OIL MILL Oils & olives. A family-owned, local business that produces Arizona’s only extra virgin olive oil. Their olives are Arizona grown and pressed at their mill in Queen Creek, Arizona with four stores and tasting rooms in the state. At La Encantada, 2905 East Skyline, Suite 167, 520.395.0563 QueenCreekOliveMill.com SANTA CRUZ CHILI & SPICE COMPANY Both manufacturer and retailer of fine chili products. At our Spice Center in Tumacacori we sell, along with Santa Cruz Products, a wide variety of gourmet southwestern foods, cookbooks, and more. 1868 East Frontage Road, Tumacacori 520.398.2591 SantaCruzChili.com SKYE ISLAND OLIVE AND GRAPES We carry more than 30 different flavors of olive oils and balsamics! Come in and sample in our tasting room! Browse our gift shop for locally made items! Open Wednesday through Sunday 10am to 5pm. 3244 Highway 82, Sonoita 520.455.4627 SkyeIslandOliveAndGrapes.com TORTILLERIA AREVALO We offer tortillas, cookies, and pancake mix, all made with the natural goodness of sweet-tasting Mesquite pod flour. Our products are traditionally made and delivered fresh to the Tucson area. Find us at Heirloom Farmers Markets. 520.822.0952 BAKERIES BARRIO BREAD Tucson’s first Community Supported Baker. Don Guerra’s artisan breads, prepared with wild yeast cultures, long fermentation, and hearth baking create a truly inspired loaf. Crafting top quality bread and supporting local foods in Tucson since 2009. Find at Plaza Palomino Farmers’ Market on Sunday, and at the Tucson CSA. BarrioBread.com

BAVIER’S BAKERY Tucson’s premier provider of locally sourced, artisan, organic wedding cakes. Our pastries, cakes, and breads are enjoyed by thousands of Tucsonans every year. Trust us to create the perfect, unique cake for your wedding. 520.220.0791 BIG SKYE BAKERS Bodie from Big Skye Bakers will tell you that what he is selling is romance. Pies and cookies baked much the same as our grandmothers made.

The nuanced difference is the addition of mesquite flour; taste of a summer rain. Inquire about special orders at bigskyebakers@gmail.com BigSkyeBakers.com LA ESTRELLA BAKERY At the Mercado San Agustin: A Tucson staple with yummy traditional Mexican pastries and pan dulce you won’t find anywhere else in town. Monday-Saturday, 7 a.m.-6 p.m., Sunday, 7 a.m.2 p.m., 100 South Avenida del Convento 520.393.3320 LaEstrellaBakeryIncAZ.com SMALL PLANET BAKERY We started baking bread in February of 1975. At that point, we were a collective of six, only one of whom had any baking experience. We now service many stores and do custom baking for eight restaurants and participate in many farmers’ markets. 411 North 7th Avenue 520.884.9313 SmallPlanetBakery.com BEER, WINE, & DISTILLED LIBATIONS ARIDUS WINE COMPANY Family-owned Aridus Wine Company opened custom crush cellar doors in August 2012. Tasting Room open 11-5 daily. 145 North Railview Avenue, Willcox 520.766.9463 AridusWineCo.com BEAST BREWING COMPANY Arizona’s first and wildest craft beer. Our mission is to inspire a renewed passion for flavor, one pint at a time. 1326 West Highway 92 #8, Bisbee 520.284.5251 BeastBrewingCompany.com BODEGA PIERCE Our wines are made exclusively from 17 varieties of mature vines encompassing Bordeaux, Burgundy, Rhone, Spanish, and Italian grapes grown at the family’s estate vineyard south of Willcox, AZ. The wines are designed to express the high desert terroir of the Willcox Bench and have been found to be unsurpassed in producing spectacular world-class wines. 4511 East Robbs Road, Willcox 602.320.1722 BodegaPierce.com BORDERLANDS BREWING COMPANY Devoted to crafting unique beers using local ingredients and sustainable brewing methods. Founded in 2011 by two friends, Borderlands has a unique tap room located in a 100 year old produce warehouse and is now providing beer for dozens of bars and restaurants in Southern Arizona.119 East Toole Avenue 520.261.8773 BorderlandsBrewing.com

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CARLSON CREEK VINEYARDS A cozy, comfortable tasting experience, with plush seating and charming staff. Carlson Creek’s cottage tasting room allows you to relax and enjoy our wines in a stress free atmosphere. 115 Railview Avenue, Willcox 520.766.3000 CarlsonCreek.com CHARRON VINEYARDS & WINERY Less than 30 minutes from downtown Tucson is a small vineyard producing quality hand crafted Arizona wines. Visit one of the oldest wineries in Arizona where you can sample an array of award-winning wines in the glass enclosed tasting room or on the wine deck surrounded by mature vineyards and breathtaking mountain views. 18585 South Sonoita Highway, Vail 520.762.8585 CharronVineyards.com

SENTINEL PEAK BREWING COMPANY Located in midtown Tucson, our nano brewery and tap room provide a constant variety of award-winning, craft beers and great food in a casual setting where families and friends can catch a Wildcats game, enjoy live music, or get a growler to go. 4746 East Grant Road 520.777.9456 SentinelPeakBrewing.com TAP & BOTTLE A craft beer and wine tasting room in Downtown Tucson featuring hundreds of beverage options to enjoy on site or carry out. Look forward to beer flights, events, and merchandise. 403 North 6th Avenue 520.344.8999 TheTapAndBottle.com TEN-FIFTY FIVE BREWING Committed to the idea of the local nano-brewer; we are a small batch company using fresh ingredients and open minds to make some great tasting brew. 3810 East 44th Street, Suite 315, 520.461.8073 1055Brewing.com

AVALON ORGANIC GARDENS & ECOVILLAGE Avalon Gardens practices traditional permaculture principles and time-honored techniques of organic gardening, as well as new sustainable technologies; they also promote seed-saving and the cultivation of heritage varieties of produce provided to our local area through a Community Supported Agriculture (CSA) program. Tours available by appointment. 2074 Pendleton Drive, Tumacácori 520.603.9932 AvalonGardens.org CHIRICAHUA PASTURE RAISED MEATS Home of “Josh’s Foraging Fowls” pasture raised poultry (chicken, eggs, and holiday turkeys). Also high quality grass-finished beef and lamb. All of our livestock are raised on our irrigated pastures near Willcox, AZ. Visit us online or call to order.

520.507.3436 CPRMeats.com CHIVA RISA We make artisanal, all natural, European-style cheese on an off-grid, sustainable site situated in the upper San Pedro Valley near the Mexican Border.

We treat our animals, land, and cheese with the utmost care and respect. Sharing nature’s bounty with our community through finely-crafted cheese is Chiva Risa’s primary goal. 520.901.0429 ChivaRisa.com DOUBLE CHECK RANCH We are a family business that raises, processes (on-farm), and directly sells hearty, wholesome pasture-raised meats in ways that would be familiar to our grandfathers. For eighteen years we have been reinventing local, small-scale agriculture in a way that respects land, animals, and people. Find at various farmers’ markets. 520.357.6515 DoubleCheckRanch.com

DOS CABEZAS WINEWORKS Planted, harvested, and fermented in Arizona! Come try a glass!

Our winery tasting room is open Thursday-Sunday 10:30-4:30. Tasting fee of $15 includes a souvenir glass. 3248 Highway 82, Sonoita 520.455.5141 DosCabezasWineWorks.com FLYING LEAP VINEYARDS With developed acreage in both Sonoita AVA and Cochise County, Flying Leap offers a diverse portfolio of ultra-premium, carefully crafted wines. Visit the tasting rooms at estate vineyards in Willcox and Sonoita, and tasting rooms in Bisbee and Tucson. 520.954.2935 FlyingLeapVineyards.com

FIORE DI CAPRA Raw Goat Milk, Yogurt, Kefir, Artisanal Farmstead Goat Cheese, and Confections. Healthy, happy goats fed grass, alfalfa, and local browse.

Award-winning products can be sampled and purchased at the Heirloom Farmers’ Market, Sundays. 520.586.2081 GoatMilkAndCheese.com

GOLDEN RULE VINEYARDS One part of a family farming operation owned by Jim and Ruth Graham of Cochise, Arizona. The combination of rich alluvial soils, a deep groundwater aquifer, brilliant Arizona sunshine, and a wide spread between daytime and nighttime temperatures creates a high desert terroir that is unique in American vineyards. 3649 North Golden Rule Road, Cochise 520.507.2400

HARRIS HERITAGE GROWERS We are a small family U-Pick farm. Our seasons are May, July-November, we also sell farm raised chickens, turkeys, eggs and homemade pies. 27811 South Sonoita Highway (Highway 83), Sonoita 520.455.9272

HAMILTON DISTILLERS Whiskey del Bac is handmade by Hamilton Distillers in small batches using a copper potstill and house-malted, mesquite-smoked barley. Three desert single-malt whiskeys made in Tucson. 2106 North Forbes Blvd #103 520.628.9244 HamiltonDistillers.com

HIGH ENERGY AGRICULTURE Based out of Marana, AZ. Family owned and operated, High Energy brings the freshest possible produce for maximum nutrient value picked each morning of the market. Find on Facebook, available at Heirloom Farmers Market.

IRON JOHN’S BREWING COMPANY A rotating selection of small batch craft beers all bottled by hand. We produce all our beer at our brewery and have a small retail bottle shop on site. We invite you to stop by and purchase some of the beer you like. 245 South Plumer Avenue 205.737.4766 IronJohnsBrewing.com OLD BISBEE BREWING COMPANY Come and visit lively, historical Bisbee and taste the premium beer at Old Bisbee Brewing Company in the heart of Brewery Gulch! 200 Review Alley, Old Bisbee 520.432.2739 OldBisbeeBrewingCompany.com PLAZA LIQUORS A family-owned and independent store, Plaza has been around under the ownership of Mark Thomson for 35 years. Plaza specializes in family-owned wineries, breweries, and distilleries from around the world. The service and selection speaks for itself. 2642 North Campbell Avenue 520.327.0542 SAND-RECKONER VINEYARDS Located on the Willcox Bench at 4,300 feet in elevation, Rob and Sarah Hammelman tend to the vineyards. Our name, Sand-Reckoner, means ‘sand-calculator,’ and references Archimedes’ revolutionary and thought provoking third century B.C. writing. In this text, Archimedes calculates the size of the universe by figuring the number of grains of sand that will fill it. The name alludes to our sandy loam soils, our connection to the cosmos, and the infinite calculations required to create a wine that expresses the very sand into which our vines’ roots grow deep. 303.931.8472 Sand-Reckoner.com

COFFEE ROASTERS EXO ROAST COMPANY Exo seeks out the world’s finest coffees, craft roasts them in small batches, and distributes them in limited quantities to ensure unequaled quality. Roastery and café open Monday-Saturday, 7am-7pm, Sunday 7am-3pm. Come by for free twice-weekly tastings. Custom wholesaling for area cafes and restaurants.

403 North Sixth Avenue 520.777.4709 ExoCoffee.com SAVAYA COFFEE Our goal is to offer superior quality coffees available around the corner from where you brew at home, so the fresh flavors of the Americas, Africa, and Asia are right here for you to enjoy. Several locations in Baja Arizona. SavayaCoffee.com STELLA JAVA Enjoy delicious espresso drinks made from locally roasted coffee beans at this unique family-owned Tucson café. Mon-Sun 8am-2pm 100 South Avenida del Convento 520.777.1496 StellaJava.com FARMS, RANCHES, PRODUCE COMPANIES APPLE ANNIE’S U-PICK FARM The Country Store is located just off of I-10 exit 340 in Willcox. We are open daily year-round offering our famous pies, apple bread, fudge, jarred good, gifts and other Apple Annie’s goodies that you love! 1510 North Circle I Road, Willcox 520.766.2084 AppleAnnies.com

LARRY’S VEGETABLES We grow according to the seasons and the garden dictates when each crop is ready to go to market. All produce is picked within 24-48 hours prior to market. Larry and Eunice are “getting fresh with your veggies.” 520.250.2655 LarrysVeggies.net PATAGONIA ORCHARDS An organic grower, packer, and shipper based in Rio Rico, Arizona. We ship premium organic fruits grown in Arizona and Mexico to wholesalers and retailers throughout the U.S. and Canada. We partner with more than 15 organic growers. 520.761.8970 PatagoniaOrchardsLLC.com REZONATION FARMS A family-scale farm serving two restaurants, the Food Conspiracy Co-op, farmers’ markets, and others. We produce eggs, honey, and vegetables and hold natural beekeeping workshops twice a year.

4526 North Anway Road, Marana ReZoNationFarm.com SAN XAVIER CO-OP FARM The San Xavier Cooperative Association envisions a farm committed to sustainable farming practices that support economic development in the community. Visit our farm store. 8100 South Oidak Wog 520.449.3154 SanXavierCoOp.org SKY ISLAND BRAND From conception to consumption, you’ve got a friend on the land, SKY ISLAND BRAND! Find us at the Sierra Vista Farmers’ Market (Thurs), Bisbee Farmers’ Market (Sat), Sierra Vista Food Co-op, and Tucson at Food Conspiracy Co-op. 520.642.9368

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CALLAGHAN VINEYARDS Located in the rolling, oak-dotted hills of southeastern Arizona, at an elevation of 4800 feet, we produce rich, complex red and white wines from a 25 acre vineyard. Mediterranean and Spanish varietals—Tempranillo, Mourvedre, Petit Verdot, Petite Syrah, and Grenache—are the basic building blocks for our red blends, while Viognier, and Riesling are blended for our estate white wine. 336 Elgin Rdoad, Elgin 520.455.5322 CallaghanVineyards.com

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SLEEPING FROG FARMS Sleeping Frog Farms is an intensive 75-acre farm nestled in the Cascabel corridor of the San Pedro River Valley in Southern Arizona. Our mission is to improve the health of our land and community by growing high quality fruits and vegetables without the use of chemicals. 520.212.3764 SleepingFrogFarm.com SUNIZONA FAMILY FARMS We are a family-owned, certified organic farm in Willcox, Arizona growing fruits and vegetables with sustainable, veganic practices, and greenhouse technology. CSAs available all over Baja Arizona. 5655 East Gaskill Road, Willcox 520.824.3160 SunizonaFamilyFarms.com VAN HAREN MEAT COMPANY Local lamb & goat meat raised locally in San Manuel. Find at the Heirloom Farmers’ Market on Sunday at Rillito Park. 520.909.0744 email: TSVanHaren@msn.com WALKING J FARM A polyculture farm specializing in grass fed, pasture-raised beef, poultry, and pork, and organically grown vegetables. At Santa Cruz River Farmers’ Market on Thurs, Nogales Farmers’ Market on Fridays, and Heirloom Farmers’ Market on Sun 520.398.9050 WalkingJFarm.com GROCERS, FARMERS’ MARKETS & CSAS APPLE ANNIE’S COUNTRY STORE Open year-round offering our famous pies, apple bread, fudge, jarred goods, gifts, and other Apple Annie’s goodies that you love! Visit our U-Pick farm in season. 1510 North Circle I Road, Willcox 520.766.2084 AppleAnnies.com

RINCON VALLEY FARMERS’ & ARTISANS MARKET Enjoy the beautiful scenery and discover a one-of-a-kind shopping experience featuring fruit, produce, eggs, and meat from local Arizona farmers, local raw honey, artisan breads, beautiful artwork, crafts, furniture, aprons, and more handcrafted by our Artisans. We are open EVERY Saturday year round from 8am-1pm. 520.591.2276 RVFM.org RIVER ROAD GARDENS We are a small urban farm, using Biodynamic principles, located on the grounds of the Tucson Waldorf School. CSAs available. 3605 East River Road 520.780.9125 RiverRoadGardens.com SANTA CRUZ RIVER FARMERS’ MARKET Fresh, sustainably grown foods from local farmers. Arizona fruits and vegetables, free-range meat, eggs, honey, baked goods, and natural plant products! Live music, cooking demonstrations, children’s activities, and free workshops. A great place to get to know your community! Every Thursday from 3-6, on West Congress Street, just west of I-10 at Mercado San Agustin 520.882.3313 CommunityFoodBank.org SHOPORGANIC.COM An online retailer of carefully selected Organic and Non-GMO products. Local Tucson customers can shop online and pick up at our facility. We offer shelf stable groceries, bulk foods, personal care, household items, gluten free, raw, and more. 520.792.0804 ShopOrganic.com

SIERRA VISTA FOOD CO-OP Our store has a full natural & organic grocery selection as well as frozen, dairy, bulk foods, organic and local produce, specialty & organic cheeses, olives, cruelty-free cosmetics, premium supplements, and more! 96 South Carmichael, Sierra Vista 520.335.6676 SierraVistaMarket.com SIERRA VISTA FARMERS’ MARKET Open Thursdays at Veterans’ Memorial Park in Sierra Vista, AZ. Meet local growers, ranchers, beekeepers and bakers. Take home some of the bounty of southern Arizona! Grass-fed meats, desert heritage foods, and plants. Contact SierraVistaFarmersMarket@cox.net SierraVistafarmersMarket.com TIME MARKET A neighborhood market since 1919, we bring specialty goods to the table: craft beers, esoteric fine wine, wood-fired pizza, espresso, and artisan organic natural yeast breads. We sell organic produce and use it for our restaurant in sandwiches, salads, and pizzas. We are committed to honest communication about sourcing, and enjoy featuring local farms in our menu. 444 East University Boulevard 520.622.0761 TUCSON CSA Offering weekly boxes of local, organically-grown produce since 2004. We also offer pasture-raised eggs and chickens, grass-fed meats, cheese, and bread (from Barrio Bread). Pickups are Tuesdays or Wednesdays, 4:00-7:00 pm, The Historic Y, 300 East University Boulevard 520.203.1010 TucsonCSA.org

BISBEE FARMERS’ MARKET Vibrant village market appears magically at Vista Park in the Warren district in Bisbee every Saturday morning. We feature local musicians while you enjoy shopping for healthy local foods and artisan crafts. Choices for Sustainable Living booth features workshops for healthy lifestyle changes. 9am1pm, Saturdays, BisbeeFarmersMarket.org BISBEE FOOD COOP Community owned. Natural & Organic. Open for everyone. Serving Bisbee and Cochise County for over 35 years. 72 Erie Street, Bisbee 520.432.4011 BisbeeCOOP.com FOODINROOT We are a small business startup with big dreams. We believe you can change your world through food, and we are dedicated to bringing greater access and knowledge for all things concerning local food. UAMC Farmers’ Market on Friday 10am-2pm. St. Philip’s Farmers’ Market on Saturday & Sunday 8am-1pm 520.261.6982 FoodInRoot.com HEIRLOOM FARMERS’ MARKETS Four local farmers’ markets that support our region’s farms by: connecting consumers directly to local food producers, strengthening urban-rural agriculture and small food businesses. Heirloom Farmers’ Markets, dedicated to the benefits of local food. 520.882.2157 HeirloomFM.com

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HIGH DESERT MARKET Gourmet food, gift market, and cafe. Open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, with indoor and outdoor seating. We do all our baking on premises, serve generous gourmet salads and sandwiches, quiches, pizzas, desserts, and more. 203 Tombstone Canyon, Old Bisbee 520.432.6775 HighDesertMarket.com NATIVE SEEDS/SEARCH RETAIL SHOP In addition to the seed shop, find a mouthwatering variety of Southwestern foods, including native chile powders, savory mole sauces, locally grown beans, and much more. 3061 North Campbell Avenue 520.622.5561 NativeSeeds.org NOGALES MERCADO Enjoy the border experience at our all-local farmers’ market in the heart of downtown Nogales with Santa Cruz County produce, meat, baked goods, jams/ jellies, and much more every Friday afternoon. The Nogales Mercado is part of Cosechando Bienestar, an initiative in Nogales to renew food traditions so that locally-grown food is enjoyed by all for better health. 520.375.6050 Facebook.com/NogalesMercado

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Nonfood in Baja Arizona ARTISTS BARBARA BRANDEL ARTIST Original artworks by a long time Tucson artist, rich in luminous color, and well-crafted by the artist’s own hand. Paintings on canvas or paper, and mixed media collages with recycled postage stamps & maps. Themes of world cultures, ecology, nature, and Tucson. BarbaraBrandelArtist.com DENTAL DR. KRIZMAN INTEGRATIVE DENTISTRY We are an integrative dental clinic that combines the best aspects of general and biological dentistry, and determines the healthiest restorative dental solution for each patient. 1601 North Tucson Boulevard #27, 520.326.0082 KrizmanDental.com DESIGNERS & BUILDING SUPPLIES ARIZONA DESIGNS KITCHENS & BATHS, LLC Your home should be an extension of things in life you enjoy and value. Our designers have more than 100 years total experience designing kitchens and baths in homes throughout Southern Arizona. Come see us! 2425 East Fort Lowell Road. 520.325.6050 ArizonaDesigns.net ORIGINATE NATURAL BUILDING MATERIALS SHOWROOM Specializing in environmentally-friendly building materials made from natural, renewable, & recycled resources. We offer innovative and unique materials that rival the aesthetics and performance of more traditional interior finishes. Flooring, countertops, cabinetry, paints, plasters, alternative plywoods, fireplaces, and architectural salvage. 526 North Ninth Avenue 520.792.4207 OriginateNBM.com RED BARK DESIGN, LLC LANDSCAPE DESIGN + CONSULTATION RedBark Design offers regionally and ecologically appropriate landscape design services for residential, commercial, and consulting projects. Mail: P.O. Box 44128 Tucson, Arizona 85733. 520.247.2456 RedBarkDesign.com SUNSET INTERIORS & DESIGN STUDIO With over 30 years of experience, the award-winning Dara Davis is known for her unique interpretation of regional design, inspired by the rich heritages of California missions, New Mexico pueblos, and ranches of the southwest. Plaza Colonial at 2890 East Skyline Drive Suite #190, 520.825.2297 SunsetInterior.com FITNESS & YOGA DNA PERSONAL TRAINING/CROSSFIT Science-Based Fitness and Nutrition - CrossFit - Kettlebells. Wise training for wise people. 930 North Stone Avenue and 3305 North Swan Road 520.327.0600 DNAPersonalTraining.com YOGA OASIS Tap into the wellspring of your inner Oasis!

Every member of our staff is expertly trained in the art and science of teaching yoga. We specialize in making yoga more accessible. Three locations in Tucson: 245 East Congress Street, 2631 North Campbell Avenue, and 7858 East Wrightstown Road. 520.322.6142 YogaOasis.com HOUSEWARE & HARDWARE ACE HARDWARE Locally-owned and managed, we are an affiliate of the Ace Hardware co-operative. Five locations across Tucson, from Downtown on the West to the far Southeast side. We look forward to helping with your next project, no matter how small or large. Our locations listed at 135Hardware.com

BUFFALO GALS Three-quarters hardware store, one-quarter gift shop. 3149 Highway 83, Sonoita 520.455.5523 BuffaloGalsOfSonoita.com HF COORS Lead free, microwave, oven, broiler, freezer, and dishwasher safe. All our scrap and waste is inert or recycled. Our 200 foot long primary kiln is one of the most energy efficient in the world. 1600 South Cherrybell Stravenue 520.903.1010 HFCoors.com TABLE TALK AT HOME Tucson’s Premier Home Specialty Store! Our goal has always been to help you and all of our shoppers make your home as comfortable, functional, and fun as possible. Furniture, cookware, decorative home accessories. 7876 North Oracle Road, Oro Valley 877.828.8255 TableTalk.com TUMACOOKERY 45 minutes south of Tucson, in Tubac, this well-stocked kitchen shop is a foodie destination for gadgets, appliances, cutlery, gourmet food, and more. Great local products, and knowledgeable, friendly staff, make Tumacookery a regional favorite. Worth the drive to Tubac all by itself! 2221 South Frontage Road, Tubac 520.398.9497 Tumacookery.com HERBAL MEDICINE DESERT TORTOISE BOTANICALS We provide handcrafted herbal products from herbs wild-harvested and organically grown within the Sonoran desert bioregion. Owner John Slattery conducts the Sonoran Herbalist Apprenticeship Program, wild foods class, private plant walks, and individual wellness consultation services. 4802 East Montecito Street DeserTortoiseBotanicals.com TUCSON HERB STORE Located in the Heart of Downtown since 2003. Dedicated to serving a variety of ethically wild-crafted and botanical products of the southwest desert. We carry: bulk herbs, teas, herbal tinctures, beauty care products, soaps, books, incense, and much more!

408 North 4th Avenue 520.903.0038 TucsonHerbstore.com YARD WOMAN An old-fashioned natural remedy shop specializing in herbs and herbalism in the Western Herbal Tradition. Custom blending, essential oils, homeopathics, handmade soaps and lotions, books, tarot cards, and yard art. All natural. Servicing Baja Arizona since 2004. 6 Camino Otero, Tubac 520.398.9565 YardWoman.com INNS AND B&BS BLUE AGAVE BED & BREAKFAST Dramatically situated on one of the Tucson Mountain’s lush cactus covered hilltops, the Blue Agave Bed and Breakfast is perfect for those seeking an elegant yet relaxed Arizona desert experience. With four lovely casitas, The Blue Agave is a great B&B! 455 North Camino de Oeste 520.250.2202 BlueAgave.com CANYON ROSE SUITES Our turn of the century building is listed on the National Historic Registry and has been lovingly restored to provide every amenity. The rooms are beautifully decorated and include fully furnished kitchens and private baths. From $99 - $195 and we offer AAA and AARP discounts. Please inquire about our corporate and weekly rates. Subway Street & Shearer Avenue, Bisbee (520) 432-5098 CanyonRose.com CAT MOUNTAIN LODGE A bed & breakfast in the desert!

Eco-friendly accommodations in a vintage ranch setting with five eclectic spacious rooms. Southwestern comfort—mixed with modern conveniences. Enjoy free full breakfast at Coyote Pause Cafe. Reserve a guided Star Tour at Spencer’s Observatory. 2720 South Kinney Road 520.578.6085 CatMountainLodge.com

COTTAGE B&B AND BAKERY A historic landmark with comfortable, private accommodations: 1 bedroom cottage, 2 bedroom guest house. We serve a delicious full breakfast for two. Relax in our garden surrounded courtyard and enjoy a treat from our bakery. We offer a variety of freshly baked pastries, artisan breads, and organic coffee. Ask about our Saturday bakery deliveries to Tucson’s St. Phillip’s Plaza. 1104 South Central Avenue, Safford 928.428.5118 CottageBedAndBreakfast.com LA POSADA DEL RIO SONORA La Posada del Rio Sonora is a boutique hotel and restaurant on the Plaza Principal of Banámichi. Our 250 year old adobe has 10 rooms and suites, and two apartments. This is the heart of “La Ruta Rio Sonora” with nearby hot springs. 70 Calle Pesqueira, Banámichi, Sonora, Mexico MexicoEcoResort.com THE INN AT CASTLE ROCK A beautiful, eclectic hotel in the middle of Old Bisbee, located at the foot of Castle Rock, gateway to Tombstone Canyon. This 1895 historic hotel is also home to the historic Apache Springs Well. 112 Tombstone Canyon Road 520.432.4449 TheInnAtCastleRock.com TRIANGLE T GUEST RANCH Located in Dragoon, next to the Amerind Museum and only about an hour from Tucson, Triangle T is the perfect quick getaway. Established in 1922, the Triangle T Historic Ranch boasts a colorful and exciting past. 4190 Dragoon Road, Dragoon 520.586.7533 TriangleTGuestRanch.Rocks TUBAC POSTON HOUSE INN Located in the historic location of the Tubac village, the Poston House Inn has been occupied since the 1850s. Our Bed & Breakfast Inn has 5 pools, beautiful rooms, a homemade breakfast. Premier lodging in Tubac. 20 Calle Iglesia, Tubac 520.398.3193 TubacPostonHouseInn.com WHISPER’S RANCH BED & BREAKFAST 8 easy miles from Sonoita Vineyards. They offer king sized memory foam beds, private bathrooms, a full breakfast, and personal chef services to accommodate your special dietary needs—amenities that are unparalleled in the community.

1490 Highway 83, Elgin 520.455.9246 WhispersRanch.com LANDSCAPING & PERMACULTURE AHIMSA LANDSCAPING Ahimsa Landscaping is an ethically-focused, small design + build business specializing in creating sustainable landscapes through the integration of permaculture design principles and water harvesting techniques for the desert environment. Inquiries at info@ahimsalandscaping.com 520.345.1906 AhimsaLandscaping.com WATERSHED MANAGEMENT GROUP Helping you with water harvesting, soil building, edible and native gardens, and watershed restoration. We’re a Tucson-based, non-profit serving the community by sharing our technical expertise and offering hands-on workshops, training programs, custom property consultations, site plans, and project implementation. 520.396.3266 WatershedMG.org LAWYERS LAW OFFICES OF NICOLE J. FRANCO, PLC Do you need a social security disability attorney? If you suffer from a serious medical condition preventing you from working, we can help. All consultations are free. 5111 North Scottsdale Road #160, Scottsdale 888.945.0144 NicoleFrancoDisability.com LITERATURE

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Local Products & Services

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ANTIGONE BOOKS Zany, independent (and 100% solar-powered) bookstore. Books for all ages plus large selection of unusual gifts and cards. Regional books on cooking, gardening, sustainability, green living, and more. Voted Tucson’s best independent bookstore. Located in Tucson’s unique Fourth Avenue shopping district. 411 North 4th Avenue 520.792.3715 AntigoneBooks.com BOOK STOP A Tucson institution for decades (since 1967!), the Book Stop stocks thousands of quality used and out-of-print titles. Monday-Thursday: 10am-7pm, Friday-Saturday: 10am-10pm, Sunday: noon-5pm. 213 North 4th Avenue 520.326.6661 BookStopTucson.com HOZHONI, A GATHERING PLACE The best place for coffee, ice cream, books, art, events, and more. Weekdays: 6:30am-5pm. Weekends: 7am-5pm. 22 Tubac Road, Tubac 520.398.2921 Hozhoni-Tubac.com MASSAGE, SPAS & SALONS BLADES HAIR DESIGN Specializing in the greatest cuts, ORGANIC color & highlights, keratin texture smoother treatments, waxing, styling. 804 East University Boulevard 520.622.4247 BladesTucson.com COYOTE WORE SIDEBURNS A high quality progressive hair salon. Our stylists are well-trained and current. If you would like to speak to a stylist about your hair service prior to making a commitment, consultation appointments are available. New location: 2855 East Grant Road 520.623.7341 CUT, COLOR, POLISH SALON A full service salon surrounded by luxury and relaxation. Specializing in all things beauty. Cut Color Polish welcomes clients to come indulge in the experience while taking care of all hair and nail pampering needs. Whether it’s a quick cut and style on the go or a manicure for a special occasion, Cut Color Polish staff aims to please and make every customer a top priority. 345 East Congress Street 520.777.7419 CutColorPolish.com ESTUDIO DE PIEL This beautiful skin studio is the perfect place to treat yourself. The professionals at Estudio De Piel provide relaxing massages and clinically effective skin care treatments. 100 South Avenida del Convento 520.882.5050 EstudioPiel.com GLOW SKIN CARE & LASHES Melinda M. Spreng’s philosophy is ‘beauty from within.’ She uses all natural products and methods to make you look and feel your best! 3101 North Swan Road 520.261.4635 GlowSkinCare-N-Lashes.SkinCareTherapy.net THE HIVE HAIR STUDIO & GALLERY Conveniently located inside the historic Hotel Congress. We offer premium hair care at a competitive price point, and feature a revolving gallery of local artists. Book your appointment online today. 315 East Congress Street 520.628.4188 TheHiveTucson.com

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JEFF ROGERS, AT CRANIOSACRAL & ZEN SHIATSU THERAPIES OF TUCSON The only Upledger Diplomate Certified CranioSacral Therapist in Southern Arizona, treating deeply with a light touch all forms and effects of stress, injury, chronic pain, headache/ migraines, PTSD, and much more, since 1990. 439 North 6th Avenue Suite 221, 520.990.5865 CSTZST.com KRIS SCHAEFER ROGERS, AT CRANIOSACRAL & ZEN SHIATSU THERAPIES OF TUCSON Provides in-depth and multi-leveled bodywork skills to touch in at the root of energetic, nervous, immune, and organ function to regulate stress, trauma, and pain, since 1985. 439 North 6th Avenue Suite 221, 520.977.8019 CSTZST.com ROOTED THERAPEUTIC MASSAGE & BODYWORK A small, locally owned clinic staffed by independent massage therapists located in the heart of Tucson, minutes from downtown and the University of Arizona.

Rooted offers a wide range of modalities, including therapeutic, sports, Thai, prenatal massage, Chi Nei Tsang, and Skincare. 1600 North Tucson Boulevard, Suite 120, 520.326.8300 RootedMassageTucson.com

SPA DAZE TUCSON Providing quality pain management, stress relief, & athletic therapy. Therapeutic & Medical Massage, Shiatsu, Ashiatsu, Thai Massage, & More! 6812 North Oracle Road, Suite 100, 520.334.1919 SpaDazeTucson.com VILLAGE SALON Hair, nails, makeup...a full service salon located in Broadway Village. 120 South Country Club Road 520.795.3929 TheVillageSalonTucson.com ORGANIZATIONS AMERICAN SOCIETY OF INTERIOR DESIGNERS ASID is a community of people–designers, industry representatives, educators and students–committed to interior design. 520.547.5516 ASIDTucson.org AMERIND MUSEUM A nonprofit museum and research center dedicated to Native American cultures and histories. Located in Arizona’s spectacular Texas Canyon. 2100 North Amerind Road, Dragoon 520.586.3666 Amerind.org ARIZONA CENTER FOR INTEGRATIVE MEDICINE At the University of Arizona College of Medicine is leading the transformation of health care by creating, educating, and actively supporting a community that embodies the philosophy and practice of healing-oriented medicine, addressing mind, body and spirit.

IntegrativeMedicine.Arizona.edu BISBEE HUB Are you traveling to Bisbee soon? Find out what’s in store before you travel by visiting BisbeeHub.com and checking out the events calendar. We are also working on a business directory so come back again and again and see why Bisbee is so special! BisbeeHub.com COSECHANDO BIENESTAR An initiative to renew food traditions in Nogales so that locally-grown food is enjoyed by all for better health. We do this by improving access, building residents’ capacity to grow food, supporting sound policy, and promoting local business. 520.375.6050 Facebook.com/NogalesMercado DOWNTOWN TUCSON PARTNERSHIP A private nonprofit corporation whose mission is to revitalize Downtown through economic development, community development, public outreach, and events. 100 North Stone, Suite 101, 520.268.9030 DowntownTucson.org ETHERTON GALLERY Founded in 1981, Etherton Gallery specializes in 19th, 20th century, and contemporary fine photography, and features top local and regional artists working in all media. We also manage the Temple Gallery at the Temple of Music and Art. 135 South 6th Avenue 520.624.7370 EthertonGallery.com HEALTHY YOU NETWORK The mission of Healthy You Network, Inc. is to promote the lifelong health benefits of a whole, plant-based lifestyle to residents of Arizona. 3913 East Pima Street 520.207.7503 HealthyYouNetwork.org KXCI COMMUNITY RADIO Connecting the communities of Tucson and Southern Arizona to each other and to the world with informative, engaging, and creative community-based radio programming. Tune in at 91.3 KXCI Tucson, or listen online at KXCI.org.

LOCAL FIRST ARIZONA We empower Arizonans to build the life they want in their local community. Together we can create a strong economy, vibrant community, & job opportunities. LocalFirstAZ.com MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY ART The MOCA inspires new ways of thinking through the cultivation, interpretation, and exhibition of cutting-edge art of our time. 265 South Church Avenue 520.624.5019 Moca-Tucson.org NATIONAL CENTER FOR INTERPRETATION A research and outreach unit at the University of Arizona charged with social justice for language minorities through cutting-edge research, training, and testing for interpreters and translators while advancing professionalism. 800 East University Blvd Suite 200 520.621.3615 NCI.Arizona.edu PIMA ASSOCIATION OF GOVERNMENTS A nonprofit metropolitan planning organization with Transportation Planning, Environmental Planning, Energy Planning, and Technical Services divisions. 1 East Broadway Boulevard, Suite 401, 520.792.1093 PAGRegion.com PRESIDIO SAN AGUSTÍN Located at the center of Washington and Court Streets in downtown Tucson. The Presidio San Agustín del Tucson has living history festivals where visitors can sample Spanish Colonial food, listen to stories of old Tucson, learn period crafts, see the cannon fired, and watch the soldiers drill! Admission is free.

Metered parking is available during the week and parking on nearby streets is FREE on weekends. 196 North Court Street 520.837.8119 TucsonPresidio.com SANTA CRUZ VALLEY HERITAGE ALLIANCE We connect people to the unique heritage resources of the Santa Cruz River Valley in southern Arizona. 520.882.4405 SantaCruzHeritage.org SONORAN INSTITUTE Founded in 1990, the Sonoran Institute informs and enables community decisions and public policies that respect the land and people of western North America.44 East Broadway Blvd, Suite 350, 520.290.0828 SonoranInstitute.org SOUTHERN ARIZONA ARTS & CULTURAL ALLIANCE A not-for-profit organization that exists to ensure that, through engagement in arts and culture, our communities produce strong, inspired citizens. 520.797.3959 SAACA.org TOHONO CHUL PARK One of the “World’s Ten Great Botanical Gardens” according to Travel + Leisure magazine, and the place in Tucson where nature, art, and culture connect. 7366 North Paseo Del Norte 520.742.6455 TohonoChul.org TUBAC CHAMBER OF COMMERCE A non-profit business league, engaged in all activities relating to the perpetuation, preservation, & promotion of Tubac, and its businesses. Welcome Ctr 12 B Tubac Road, Tubac 928.300.9448 TubacAZ.com TUCSON CLEAN & BEAUTIFUL A non-profit organization with the intent to preserve and improve our environment, conserve natural resources, and enhance the quality of life in the City of Tucson and eastern Pima County. These goals are achieved through initiating educational and participatory programs implemented with broad-citizen, multicultural support. 520.791.3109 TucsonCleanAndBeautiful.org TUCSON JAZZ FESTIVAL A 12-day festival of jazz, with locations at the historic Fox Tucson Theatre, The Rialto Theatre, and the Hotel Congress. The Festival also includes a free outdoor event on Martin Luther King Day, Jan. 19, 2015 in downtown Tucson, and festival artists will also hold master classes and educational activities for local schools and academies.

TucsonJazzFestival.org TUCSON MUSEUM OF ART Western, Latin, modern and contemporary, and Asian art fills our historic city block in downtown Tucson for an everlasting experience while traveling exhibits keep the paint and clay fresh for each visit. 140 North Main Avenue 520.624.2333 TucsonMuseumOfArt.org

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YWCA TUCSON The Cafe at the YWCA: Setting the Table for Change. The Galleria Art and Gifts: Gifts with Purpose. Social Enterprises of the YWCA Tucson.

Our Mission: Eliminating racism, empowering women, and promoting peace, justice, freedom, and dignity for all. 525 North Bonita Avenue 520.884.7810 YWCATucson.com WATER RESOURCES RESEARCH CENTER The WRRC is committed to assisting communities in water management and policy, educating teachers, students, and the public about water, and encouraging scientific research on state and regional water issues. 350 North Campbell Avenue 520.621.2526 WRRC.Arizona.edu WESTERN NATIONAL PARKS ASSOCIATION Promotes preservation and stewardship of the national park system and its resources and associated public lands by creating greater public appreciation through education, interpretation, and research. 12880 North Vistoso Village Drive, Oro Valley 520.622.6014 WNPA.org PLANTS, SEEDS & GARDEN SUPPLY ARBICO ORGANICS Arbico Organics has been providing organic solutions for homeowners, gardeners, farmers and pet, horse, and livestock owners since 1979. Products include beneficial insects and organisms, natural fertilizers, amendments, composting supplies, weed and disease controls, critter control, and more. 800.827.2847 Arbico-Organics.com ARID LANDS GREENHOUSES We sell the most unusual plants: cacti, succulents, pachycaul trees, pachyforms, terrestrial bromeliads and orchids, and bulbs. Order online or to visit and browse, call ahead. 520.883.8874 AridLands.com B&B CACTUS FARM A cactus and succulent grower in Tucson, Arizona, B&B has both seasoned landscape specimens and plants for the collector. 11550 East Speedway 520.721.4687 BandBCactus.com BAMBOO RANCH Providing Desert Grown Bamboo since 1986. Specializing in non-invasive, clumping bamboo suited to harsh conditions. Providing plants, poles, and expert advice on species, growing, and care, for privacy screening and shade. 520.743.9879 BambooRanch@juno.com BambooRanch.net CIVANO NURSERY We carry a large variety of plants for our unique climate, pottery from around the world in various styles, colors and sizes. Wind chimes that sparkle and herbs and vegetables for your kitchen garden. Fruit trees and shade trees, and flowers for butterflies and bees. 5301 South Houghton Road 520.546.9200 CivanoNursery.com GREEN THINGS NURSERY A retail & wholesale plant nursery located in Tucson in the Binghampton Historic District on the banks of the Rillito River. Come visit us for an unbelievable variety of plants, trees, cactus and pottery all at great prices! 3235 East Allen Road 520.299.9471 GreenThingsAZ.com MESQUITE VALLEY GROWERS NURSERY A destination garden center with 24 acres of plants grown on-site, including desert natives, shade trees, fruit and nut trees, shrubs, roses, cacti and succulents. Also featuring fountains, statuary and garden accessories. Knowledgable staff on hand for planning, learning & diagnosis. 8005 East Speedway Boulevard 520.721.8600 NATIVE SEEDS/SEARCH Revered Tucson nonprofit and world-class seed bank saving and sharing the seeds of the desert Southwest since 1983. Classes, tours, seeds, native crafts and more! 3061 North Campbell Avenue (store) and 3584 East River Road (Center).

520.622.0830 NativeSeeds.org RILLITO NURSERY & GARDEN CENTER An independent family-owned business that has provided our customers with a diverse inventory of quality plants and products since 1994. Our goal is to provide quality products and excellent service at a fair price. 6303 North La Cholla Boulevard 520.575.0995 RillitoNursery.com

ROMEO TREE SERVICE Certified arborist and tree worker, Angelo Romeo is the author of the DVD Mesquites & Palo Verdes, A Homeowner’s Guide. 520.603.0143 RomeoTreeService.com SILVERBELL NURSERY & COUNTRY STORE We sell bedding, garden and landscape plants, water harvesting supplies and now even pet food. “Our success is yours.” We believe that if we sell you a plant and tell you how to plant it, feed it, water it, harvest it and prune it, and you and the plant are successful, you will be back. 2730 North Silverbell Road 520.622.3894 TANK’S GREEN STUFF Our mission is to create value added products from stuff that was once considered waste.

To create jobs and great products that can be used to build a sustainable local economy. Our compost is a naturally made soil amendment, containing no fertilizers or chemical products. 520.290.9313 TanksGreenStuff.biz REAL ESTATE & PROPERTY MANAGEMENT BARRIO VIEJO RENTALS Become part of downtown’s historic district. Apartments rent from $650-$900 a month.

Offices range from 400 to 6,000 square feet, and leases include off-street parking. Let us welcome you to the neighborhood. 520.623.4091 BarrioViejo.com HERBERT RESIDENTIAL Offering modern, urban living in downtown Tucson! Come see our newly remodeled studio and one bedroom apartments with breathtaking city views. 520.777.5771 HerbertLiving.com JILL RICH REALTOR I am dedicated to our Long Realty mission: To create an exceptional real estate services experience that builds long-lasting relationships. “It’s like having your grandma in the real estate business.”

520.349.0174 JillRich.LongRealty.com TIERRA ANTIGUA HOMES The largest, locally-owned real estate brokerage in Southern Arizona. With over 800 agents, we are the largest, locally-owned real estate brokerage in Southern Arizona. We are a high energy, cutting-edge company that continues to put clients and agents first! Downtown office at 216 East Congress Street Call Kent at 520.302.5368 or Emmary 520.314.8078 TierraAntigua.com RETAIL SHOPS & PLAZAS ANGEL WINGS THRIFT & GIFT SHOP Offering a “boutique” shopping experience with an ever changing and wide variety of inventory. All proceeds go to Our Lady of the Angels Mission Catholic Church, newly built, in Sonoita. 22 Los Encinos Road, Sonoita.

AVENUE BOUTIQUE One of Tucson’s most unique, fashion-forward women’s clothing boutiques. BRANDS: Gestuz, MinkPink, Plastic Island, Sheila Fajl, Rebecca Minkoff, James Jeans, Blank Denim, Myne, Dolce Vita, Genetic, Garde, Thomas Paul, Hanky Panky. Located in the Broadway Village. 3050 East Broadway Boulevard 520.881.0409 ShopAvenueBoutique.com BON BOUTIQUE Located in Broadway Village, we offer a collection of well-made, beautiful things… home, garden, clothing, accessories and gifts. The things we seek out are made by skilled craftsmen who are passionate about what they do, whether they are in Tucson or abroad. 3022 East Broadway 520.795.2272 Bon-Boutique.com BUFFALO EXCHANGE We buy, sell, and trade designer wear, basics, vintage, and one-of-a-kind items. You can receive cash or trade for clothing on the spot! We’re a family operated company that works to sustain the environment by recycling clothing. 2001 East Speedway Blvd.

(Campus) 520.795.0508 & 6212 East Speedway Boulevard.

(East Side) 520.885.8392 BuffaloExchange.com BUFFALO TRADING POST New & Recycled Goods. We buy-sell-trade wonderful clothing & unique things! Our ever-changing inventory includes home decor, vintage, furniture, imports, clothing & accessories for women and men. Known as “Buffalo Exchange’s Older Sibling.” Holiday Sale and Fair events in December! 2740 South Kinney Road 520.578.0226 CatMountainStation.com

COPENHAGEN IMPORTS Committed to providing the highest quality service to our customers. Come in and experience our comfortable showroom with exciting displays and sales consultants who are truly interested in your furniture needs. 3660 East Fort Lowell 520.795.0316 CopenhagenLiving.com COWGIRL FLAIR Sonoita’s local “Gussy’d Up Outfitters” providing locals and tourists a variety of contemporary western wear, boots, jewelry, and home décor with a unique style at 3244 Highway 82 #5 in Sonoita, Arizona Wednesday through Sunday 11am to 5pm. 3244 Highway 82, Sonoita 520.455.4784 Sonoita CowGirlFlairSonoita.com CROWE’S NEST Hats, casual fashions, Minnetonka Footwear, unique jewelry & gifts. Year-round Christmas.19 Tubac Road, Tubac 520.398.2727 DARLENE MORRIS ANTIQUES We carry an unusual collection of 18th, 19th, and 20th century items including silver, jewelry, furniture, porcelain, glass, fine art and decorative items brought to the great Southwest from all over the world. Plaza Palomino 2940 North Swan, #128 520.322.9050 DECO, AN ILLUMINATING EXPERIENCE Treasures for you and your home. An eclectic mix of local artistry, recycled glassware, one-of-a-kind artworks, many items made in the USA, plus worldwide accents. 2612 East Broadway Boulevard 520.319.0888 DecoArtTucson.com DESERT LEGACY GALLERY Offering Southwestern gifts and accessories. We also have a frame shop and an interior design service. If you like beautiful Native American and contemporary Southwest jewelry, saddle up your horse and ride on in! 3266 Highway 82, Sonoita 520.455.0555 DESERT VINTAGE We’ve come to be known as a great source for excellent, one-of-a-kind vintage pieces of quality and flair. We buy men’s and women’s vintage clothing and accessories seven days a week. Come by and check us out! 636 North 4th Avenue 520.620.1570 ShopDesertVintage.com DOS CORAZONES Offering Fabulous Furniture, Accessories & Gifts. Our store will have your heart singing!

Specialty lines and one of a kind inventory. We can add that special touch or do an entire home! 520.398.3110 DosCorazonesDesign.com FED BY THREADS Downtown Tucson’s Destination for American-Made Organic Sustainable Clothing that feeds 12 emergency meals to hungry Americans per item sold.

Featuring women’s, men’s, baby and toddler apparel made from organic cotton, hemp, bamboo and beyond. 345 East Congress Street 520.396.4304 FedByThreads.com FLASH IN THE PAST Book a pinup photo shoot! Flash in the Past takes you back to the era of the classic pinup! The perfect treat for yourself! The perfect gift for a lover! Pinup parties available! Aside from pinup photo shoots, Flash in the Past also offers Retro Beauty Classes and vintage shopping. 43 South 6th Avenue 520.304.0691 FlashInThePast.com FORS SHOP In the heart of the 5C district of downtown Tucson FORS Architecture has created a small gift shop inspired by food, fashion and design. Come chat with us about our architecture and interior design services too, since our office is in the same building. Come and browse!

Monday through Friday, 9am-6pm. 245 East Congress Street #135, 520.795.9888 FORSArchitecture.com GRUMPY GRINGO FINE CIGARS The husband drop off point, daddy day care center. It’s the place to go when the other one is shopping. Grumpy Gringo features fine cigars, pipes, tobacco, excellent camraderie and tall tales. 4 Camino Otero, Tubac 520.980.5177 GrumpyGringoCigars.com GYPSY COWGIRL RESALE BOUTIQUE Unique resale clothing and accessories for women. Consignment by appointment. An upscale, resale boutique for humble snobs. Featuring brands like Lucky Brand, Double D, Johnny Was, 3J Workshop. Boots, jeans, jackets, vests skirts, shirts and more. 6 Camino Otero, Tubac 520.398.3000 HEART OF GOLD Offers real antiques (over 100 yrs old) and consignments from local estates. The owner is a certified appraiser and can help with consignment services, an estate sale, or appraisals of your treasures. P.O. Box 1273, Sonoita 520.394.0199 or cell 520.240.4490

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TUCSON ORIGINALS Since 1999, The Tucson Originals have been the driving force in promoting the value of Tucson’s independent restaurants and supporting Tucson’s culinary diversity. Visit our website for information on restaurant membership, events, and special offers.

520.477.7950 TucsonOriginals.com

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HOW SWEET IT WAS Locally-owned since 1974, we specialize in vintage fashion from the 1880s-1980s. We also buy vintage everyday. No appointment necessary. 419 North 4th Avenue 520.623.9854

MAGNETIC THREADS Original Designs then constructed into handmade clothing by Meggen Connolley. 2 Copper Queen Plaza, Old Bisbee 917.660.4681 Magnetic-Threads.com

JGILBERT FOOTWEAR A luxury footwear, apparel and accessories boutique. We offer exclusive collections from Lucchese Classics & hard-to-find brands like Thierry Rabotin, Arche, Salpy and more. Monday-Saturday 10am5:30pm Plaza Palomino. 2960 North Swan Road Suite 124, 520.327.1291

MAST TUCSON A local lifestyle boutique. Specializing in handmade jewelry, leather goods, accessories, home goods & select furnishings. The three co-owners create the lion’s share of the stock, artfully curating an enticing selection from fellow designers and artisans. At Mercado San Agustin, 100 South Avenida Del Convento 520.495.5920 ILoveMast.com

MIRAGE & BIRD Working artist studio and retail shop.

Faux plants, succulents and individual flower stems. Custom and ready made permanent arrangements. Eclectic cards and gifts. Personal consultations available by appointment. ana@mirageandbird.com Plaza Santa Cruz, 10 Plaza Road, Tubac 520.248.5039 MirageAndBird.com MONTEREY COURT Studio galleries, cafe, bar, catering, and entertainment venue centrally located in Tucson just west of Oracle Road on historic Miracle Mile. 505 West Miracle Mile 520.207.2429 MontereyCourtAZ.com PICÁNTE A treasure trove of traditional handmade crafts from Mexico, Guatemala and Latin America. Artisan works include colorful ceramics, tin objects, carved wood santos, and fine silver jewelry.

There is an incredible collection of textiles, huipils, fabric by the yard, hand-embroidered blouses and dresses, and oilcloth.

2932 East Broadway Boulevard 520.320.5699 PicanteTucson.com PLAZA PALOMINO Distinctly Tucson specialty and boutique shopping & dining.

Beautiful courtyards, unique businesses and ample parking. Ready to make your shop or restaurant part of Tucson’s gateway to the Foothills? 2960 North Swan Road PlazaPalomino.com PETROGLYPHS-FURNITURE, LIGHTING, ACCENTS An eclectic collection of furniture, lighting ,and accents. Much of which is produced in Tucson. Located in the Lost Barrio shopping district. 228 South Park Avenue 520. 628.4764 PetroglyphsTucson.com POP-CYCLE A gift shop devoted to handmade items produced from recycled, reclaimed and sustainable materials. The products are fun and whimsical, with a little something for everyone. Many items are produced locally, some by the store’s owners. 422 North 4th Avenue 520.622.3297 PopCycleShop.com RUSSELL’S RETRO FURNISHINGS Tucson’s only store specializing in Mid-Century Modern furniture as well as vintage accessories from the 1950’, 60’s and 70’s. Relive the nostalgic style and function of an ingenious design era from kitchenwares, chotchkes and lamps to refinished, reupholstered and restored dining tables, living room and bedroom sets. Family owned and operated, we offer something for everyone.1132 East Broadway Boulevard 520.882.3885 RussellsRetro.com RUSTIC CANDLE COMPANY Locally-owned and operated. Our candles are hand-poured on site. All styles, sizes & fragrances. Enjoy a fabulous selection of home decor, gift, incense, soap & much more! 324 North 4th Avenue 520.623.2880 RusticCandle.net

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SAN AGUSTIN TRADING COMPANY In addition to handmade moccasins from artisan Jesse Aguiar, this shop showcases fascinating Native American crafts and jewelry. 120 South Avenida del Convento 520.628.1800SanAgustinTradingCompany.com KRIKAWA JEWELRY DESIGNS, INC. Located in the heart of downtown on Congress Street! In the showroom, you’ll find exceptional handcrafted jewelry, accessories and art made by local and national artists. Gaze into the workshop and see the internationally renowned Krikawa jewelers at work, making one-of-a-kind wedding and engagement rings, and taking care of your fine jewelry repairs. 21 East Congress Street 520.322.6090 Krikawa.com LITTLE BIRD NESTING COMPANY New, Gently-Used, and Locally Handmade Baby and Toddler Clothing, Gear, Toys, and Gifts! AGES Newborn to Age 4. 2924 East Broadway Boulevard 520.203.7372 LittleBirdNestingCo.com LA CABAÑA Offering an artful collection of furniture and decor including traditional talavera, blending Spanish colonial and classic styles from around the world; antique and contemporary. 120 South Avenida del Convento 520.404.9008

SUNSET INTERIORS & DESIGN STUDIO With more than 30 years of experience, the award-winning Dara Davis is known for her unique interpretation of regional design, inspired by the rich heritages of California missions, New Mexico pueblos and ranches of the southwest. Plaza Colonial, 2890 East Skyline Drive Suite #190, 520.825.2297 SunsetInterior.com MAYA PALACE Clothing & Gifts From Around the World.

Festive fashions including prom dresses, wedding dresses, work fashion, casual and seasonal attire. Plaza Palomino, 2930 North Swan Road #120 520.748.0817 MayaPalaceTucson.com MERCADO SAN AGUSTIN Tucson’s first and only Public Market hosting several locally-owned shops, eateries and incredible experiences. Our courtyard is home to the Santa Cruz River Farmers’ Market (every Thursday afternoon) and many other special events. Open seven days a week with Farmers’ Market on Thursdays from 3-6 p.m. 100 South Avenida del Convento 520.461.1110 MercadoSanAgustin.com

SUNSET INTERIORS FURNITURE WAREHOUSE One-of-akind furniture samples, consignment, and a little vintage thrown in. Treasure hunt in our warehouse Thursday, Friday, and Saturday from 11am - 3pm. 75 North Park Avenue Tucson, Arizona 85719. 520.825.2297 STAGECOACH BAGS Handmade, one of a kind, cowboy boot purses made from authentic cowboy boots. Custom orders available. Unique styles for all that love the look of bling and western flair. Located in Cowgirl Country. P.O. Box 393, Sonoita 480.265.5312 StageCoachBags.com

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SWEET RIDE GIFTS & ACCESSORIES We carry a variety of Sonoita tees for men women and kids. Old guys Rule Tees, Hats and gift Items, Beautiful Bling Belts by Nocona and Jewelry for ladies. Also motorcycle related gift items for our biker enthusiasts. Stop in and see Valorie—she will be glad you did. 3244 Highway 82, Sonoita 520.455.4717 TUCSON THRIFT SHOP Tucson’s unique vintage and costume-wear resource for the fun side of life! Established in 1979, we have evolved with the 4th Avenue community into a blend of old and new. A marketplace for streetwear and theme party needs. Hours: M-Th: 10-8, F-Sat: 109, Sun: 12-6. 319 N. 4th Avenue 520.623.8736 TUMACACORI MESQUITE SAWMILL A leader in raw and finished mesquite materials. From lumber, slabs, posts, to exotic burls and burl slabs, The Sawmill has an ever changing selection. 2007 E. Frontage Road, Tumacacori 520.398.9356 MesquiteDesign.com WILDFLOWER JEWELRY & ART We offer affordable and fun arts and crafts classes and have a wide selection of jewelry, drawings, quilts, plants, and more. Find us on Etsy. 27 Subway #4, Old Bisbee 520.234.5528 YIKES TOYS! Quirky Fun for the Curious Mind. Enchanting books, wacky wonders, old-school novelties. Serious science, kooky kitsch, phenomenal fun. Featuring original works by Tucson artists & scientists. Specializing in Gifts for All Ages. 2930 East Broadway Boulevard 520.320.5669 YikesToysOnline.com ZOCALO MEXICAN IMPORTS A destination for fine Mexican imports. Owners Robert and Karri buy directly from numerous artisans all over Mexico. The 10,000 sq. ft. showroom features an extensive collection of mesquite & alder furnishings, unique decorative pieces by artists featured in the “Great Masters of Mexican Folk Art”, a wide selection of handmade textiles from Mexico and around the world, antiques, artifacts & the finest iron chandeliers available. 3016 East Broadway Boulevard 520.320.1236

TUCSON WALDORF SCHOOL Tucson Waldorf School is located in the scenic Binghampton Rural Historic Landscape and is home to the River Road Gardens CSA farm.

Children from Parent-Child Classes through 8th Grade experience an engaging education that cultivates joy and excellence in learning. The arts are integrated throughout a classical curriculum and hands-on work. Weekly tours available. 3605 East River Road 520.529.1032 TucsonWaldorf.org SERVICES CONNECT COWORKING Connect provides entrepreneurs, small businesses and freelancers more than just a desk, more than just a roof. Connect is a place where cutting-edge minds and innovative technology call home; a place where collaboration breeds success, community and change. And it happens all right here. Right in the heart of Tucson. 33 South 5th Avenue 520.333.5754 ConnectCoworking.com FLASH IN THE PAST Book a pinup photo shoot! Flash in the Past takes you back to the era of the classic pinup! The perfect treat for yourself! The perfect gift for a lover! Pinup parties available! Aside from pinup photo shoots, Flash in the Past also offers Retro Beauty Classes and vintage shopping. 43 South 6th Avenue 520.304.0691 FlashInThePast.com INPULSE NINE MEDIA If you like the look of Edible, these are the minds behind it! I9M functions like a tiny marketing department, handling small businesses’ marketing so business owners can focus on their business without hiring more staff. Graphic & web design, social media and more. Clients get 10% off Edible ads! 520.777.9551 ImpulseNine.com ORDINARY BIKE SHOP Servicing bikes of all sorts and selling new and used bikes and parts. “Life is like riding a bicycle—in order to keep your balance, you must keep moving.”—Albert Einstein. 311 East 7th Street 520.622.6488 OrdinaryBikeShop.com

SCHOOLS

SCRAPS ON SCRAPS Scraps on Scraps is a residential and commercial food waste and compostable materials pickup. If it can be composted, then we want it! Scraps on Scraps is committed to changing the way that you dispose of your food waste. 520.333.7106 ScrapsOnScraps.com

CITY HIGH SCHOOL An Arizona public charter high school serving grades 9-12 located in downtown Tucson in the historic Cele Peterson building. City High School seeks young people who want to study in a dynamic small school that prepares them for college and connects them with the community in which they live. 48 East Pennington Street 520.623.7223 CityHighSchool.org

SAHUARO TROPHY A Family Owned Business serving Tucson and Southern Arizona for more than 30 years. We offer Three Generations of Experience in the Awards Industry, to provide you with quality innovative products.

We offer State-of-the-Art Technology in all our Marking Processes, including: Diamond Drag, Rotary, Laser, Photo Etch, Sublimation, Silk Screening and Sandblasting. 2616 East Broadway 520.326.9000 SahuaroTrophy.com

GREEN FIELDS COUNTRY DAY SCHOOL Challenge. Inquiry. Balance. The foundations of a Green Fields education.

From Kindergarten to Commencement, students are encouraged to develop their interests in Academics, Fine Arts, Sports, and more. Class sizes are small and students receive individual attention. 6000 North Camino de la Tierra 520.297.2288 GreenFields.org KINO SCHOOL Where students are given the responsibility and freedom that are the essence of a democratic society. Students of all abilities succeed where learning, creativity, respect for others, and community thrives. 6625 North First Avenue 520.297.7278 KinoSchool.org SKY ISLANDS HIGH SCHOOL A a tuition-free public high school in its 7th year, now enrolling grades 9-12 at its new campus on the Rogers Commons—formerly TUSD’s Rogers Elementary on 12-acres in the heart of Tucson. Call for a tour. 6000 East 14th Street 520.382.9210 SkyIslands.org GREGORY SCHOOL Inspired Learning—Beyond strong academics. Gregory School develops inspired students who are encouraged to pursue their individual passion and develop a love for learning. Our students are well-prepared to excel in college and go on to create impactful and fulfilling lives. 3231 North Craycroft Road 520.327.6395 GregorySchool.org

SOLAR ENERGY SERVICES & PRODUCTS TECHNICIANS FOR SUSTAINABILITY A Tucson based, locally-owned, mission-driven company specializing in renewable energy and sustainable technologies for residential and commercial settings, including solar electric (PV) and solar hot water. 520.740.0736 TFSSolar.com TRAVEL & TOURISM SILVER CITY Be here for lunch—an easy and scenic three hour drive from Tucson. Nationally recognized cuisine, historic downtown district, arts, Gila National Forest, WNMU University, fresh air, clear skies, mild climate, great festivals, a top-ten destination, quaint and quirky!

575.538.5555 SilverCityTourism.org TUBAC PRESICIO Come to Tubac Presidio and experience 2,000 years of Southwest history! We showcase every culture (Native American, Spanish, Mexican, Pioneer American, and Arizonian) with award-winning artifacts and displays to bring those 2,000 years of history to life.

See Arizona’s first printing press, our original 1885 school house, and much more. Open 7 days 9am to 5pm in Arizona’s 1st European settlement. 1 Burruel Street, Tubac 520.398.2252 TubacPresidio.org

VENUES, THEATRES & ENTERTAINMENT BISBEE ROYALE A cultural and events venue screening new, classic and foreign films & hosting wine tastings, poetry, flamenco concerts & more! 94 Main Street, Old Bisbee 520.432.6750 BisbeeRoyale.com D&D PINBALL A great place to enjoy the Art and Sport of Pinball in Tucson Arizona. Open Thursday through Sunday. 331 East 7th Street 520.777.4969 DandDPinball.com FOX TUCSON THEATRE Tucson’s Premiere entertainment venue. A 1,200 seat Southwestern Art Deco movie palace built in 1930 and restored in 2005. 17 West Congress Street 520.547.3040 FoxTucson.com RIALTO THEATRE Recognized by the Tucson Weekly as the Best Indoor Venue for 10 years running, the nonprofit Rialto Theatre is the best place to see live music in Tucson, bar none. 318 East Congress Street 520.740.1000 RialtoTheatre.com LOFT CINEMA A local nonprofit cinema dedicated to creating community through film, honoring the vision of filmmakers, promoting the appreciation and understanding of the art of film. 3233 East Speedway Boulevard 520.795.7777 LoftCinema.com THE MINI TIME MACHINE MUSEUM OF MINIATURES Displaying more than 300 antique and contemporary miniatures in a state-of-the-art building sure to entertain and educate visitors of all ages. 4455 East Camp Lowell Drive 520.881.0606 TheMiniTimeMachine.org VETERINARY CARE ENLIGHTENED VETERINARY CARE Provides Holistic house calls for pets. Wellness & healing naturally. Homeopathy, Accupuncture, manipulations, nutriceuticals, hospice/senior nursing, vaccinations, hands-on exam. Concierge service at your home is convenient, comfortable, safe. I love cats! Consult Dr. Jones: drjonesevc@yahoo.com 520.249.1661 EnlightenedVetCare.com WELLNESS CENTERS & CONSULTANTS BOBCAT INTEGRATIVE CONSULTING Bob Harris & Catriona O’Curry. We bring 25+ years experience working with Couples, Families and Small Businesses; Masters in Psychology; Coaching for Individuals and Businesses; 4 Year Diplomas in Energy Healing; Groups for Women & Men; Energy Medicine Classes. 520.822.4982 BobCatIntegrativeConsulting.com FOREVER ABLE WELLNESS We are an alternative wellness center that provides services in acupuncture, Chinese herbs, massage, and chiropractic. 205 W. Giaconda Way Suite #135, 520.219.2400 Forever-Able.com NEW GRATITUDE NUTRITIONAL THERAPY Kariman Pierce is a Nutritional Therapy Practitioner and Real Food advocate with a focus on gluten sensitivity, digestion, and blood sugar related issues. She uses Functional Assessment to uncover your body’s bio-individual needs and supports you with customized nutritional protocols based in nutrient-dense whole foods. 520.477.6204 NewGratitudeNutrition.com

FOR THE RECORD The article in the September/October issue “Feed the World” implied that Howard Buffett believes African farmers should grow genetically modified seeds. The statement should read, “To help poor farmers increase yields, he believes they should ‘grow some kind of improved seeds.’”

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SWEET POPPY A one of a kind store, along with a unique selection of furniture, accessories, and much more.Located in the Mercado de Baca in Tubac next to Shelby’s Bistro. 19 Tubac Road, Tubac 520.398.2805 SweetPoppy.webs.com

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Tasting Arizona

By Alfredo Véa, Jr.

A

The two of them breezed past two other guests and swept toward the table where they began picking through the cassoulet, spearing every sliver of duck confit, then sucking them joyously into their gullets.

Our expectations were low, but the plain fact is that we were amazed by the wines. The Dos Cabezas was everyone’s favorite.

The Keeling Schaefer came in a close second and, surprisingly, the Callaghan was a very close third. All three were dark and full-bodied. I was reminded of Amarones that I’d had in Venice.

There was very little of that ubiquitous “California” taste.

Surprisingly, the higher-priced Lozen seemed closed up to my taste and prudish to the French.

After an hour of eating and drinking, the French were still cooing over the Cabezas and the Schaefer. They were agush with words that would have sent chills down the spine of a cellar master from Minervois or Pomerol. “Cassis and a note of chocolate,” he said. “Eucalyptus and lemongrass,” she countered with a blush. I lifted the glass of Lozen that had been ignored for a full hour. It had opened up significantly. Now it was in a dead heat with the Dos Cabezas.

While my guests were busily tossing overtones and finishes across the table like darts, I put the glass of Lozen to my nose and sniffed. There was the unmistakable odor of wet adobe at the rim. Beyond the rim I glimpsed the crimson-red of votive candles silently spitting and dancing in a nicho. I heard the comforting shuffle of goats on the roof, then the Doppler shift of a faraway train. I heard my Indian grandfather agreeing not to kill any more pet chickens. I felt a drop of blood dribble down my left nostril—a gift from the fields. It flowed past my lip and onto my tongue. I drank half the glass.

“I savor myself,” I said quietly. “My grandfather never slept indoors,” I explained to the glass of wine, if to no one else. “He just hated roofs. He slept outside on an old Army cot. I slept there with him. I remember his stories—and on my tongue I can taste that first hard night without his grandson.”

I can taste Arizona. ✜ P HOTO BY

C HERYL K OEHLER

R IZONA W INE ? An oxymoron? But there they were sitting on my porch, four bottles from the desert state of my childhood. Long ago I had run from that sweltering place—from the bloody noses and the eternal cuts in my fingertips from picking cotton. In all truth I really hadn’t run away.

That was my mother’s version. My snarling, angry child-mother had dragged me from my grandparents’ home “to get back at them.” I can hear my grandmother crying. That sound still carries with it the smell of creosote. I see my Yaqui grandfather fully befuddled by modern life as my mother grabs the lever and pulls without mercy.

I am the leverage that breaks them, turns them away; sends them shuffling sadly into the darkness of their adobe home. Suddenly the beans cooking inside are tasteless.

What is the terroir for Arizona wine? I came to understand terroir—the desire to reclaim a moment in time and space—when I lived in France, when the sun was this way and the rainfall was that; the year the pickers were Moroccan. It is the art impulse: mindfully tasting mindfulness. The bottle is a time capsule of earth, seed, and human intention. I have worked at many wineries in California, where I now live. Most wineries have no qualms about buying juice from elsewhere in order to amend their own wines. The wines here are very good, some exquisite, but so few of them carry the flavor of a somewhere … of a specific sometime.

I placed the four bottles on the table and walked past them several dozen times, glancing at them each time—one Dos Cabezas, one Keeling Schaefer, one Callaghan, and an ostentatious-looking bottle named Lozen. I called Sebastien, a French snob and a close friend who agreed to come over and taste the wines with me, but only if I served an authentic cassoulet. Authentic? The white beans on my shelf are from Stockton; the duck at the butcher shop from Modesto; the ham hocks and sausage come from southern Oregon. The garlic and carrots come from Mexico—nothing at all from Carcassonne.

“When the recipe calls for white wine,” he had snorted over the phone, “make sure it’s a Graves Sec. My dear mother will use nothing else.”

“White beans in white wine at a tasting of reds?” I asked. He had already hung up.

Sebastien arrived with his lovely girlfriend, Leah, at 6 sharp.

Alfredo Véa, Jr. was born on Buckeye Road, west of Phoenix, and lives in Oakland, California. He’s a lawyer who has also written three novels: La Maravilla, The Silver Cloud Café, and Gods Go Begging, named one of the best books of 1999 by the Los Angeles Times.

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Roasted daily in the Sonoran Desert

Start each day sipping a cup of organic Savaya coffee — behind our mesquite wood bar or in your own home.

From crop to cup, we bring an extensive collection of coffees from around the world to your desert doorstep.

WILLIAMS CENTRE

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LA ENCANTADA

ORO VALLEY

DOVE MOUNTAIN

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