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edible

No. 43 Nov/Dec | Heirloom 2015

Austin

Celebrating Central Texas food culture, season by season

The

HEIRLOOM Issue


FINANCING TEXAS YEARS FINANCING TEXAS FOR FOR 100 100 YEARS

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HERE TO HELP YOU GROW.

Texas never stops. Thanks to the financial support of Capital Farm Credit, neither do the farmers and ranchers who call her home. For nearly a century, we’ve helped rural Texans show the world what hard work can achieve. But the job is far from over. And as rural Texas grows further, we’ll be there. CapitalFarmCredit.com | 877.944.5500


Your Holiday Shopping Done A Night In JACK ALLEN’S KITCHEN Celebrating the Tastes of Texas by Jack Gilmore and Jessica Dupuy, Photographs by Kenny Braun

JACK ALLEN’S KITCHEN jack gilmore and jessica dupuy

06

JACK

ALLEN’S

Potato Casserole

Broccoli Casserole

Butternut Squash Hash

Grilled Veggies

KITCHEN Celebrating the Tastes of Texas

fall entrées

Stuffed Texas Quail

serves 6

Quail is easy to find in Texas, and this is a great way to use leftover dressing. The corn and tamales work well with this type of meat. Ask your butcher for a boneless bird, and that will be a lot easier to stuff and eat. One bird per person is plenty. It doesn’t take that long to grill quail, so be careful not to overcook and dry it out. The stuffing should help keep it real moist. ingredients

measure

Dried oregano, preferably Mexican Black pepper Cumin seeds Cloves, whole Cinnamon, preferably Mexican canela Achiote paste

1½ tablespoons 1½ tablespoons 1 ¼ teaspoons ½ teaspoon 1 ½ teaspoons

Salt Garlic cloves

1 tablespoon 14 large

Fresh orange juice

1 ½ cups

Tamale and Jalapeño-Cornbread Dressing (see page 202) Celery Onions Jalapeño Egg, beaten

2 cups

Quail, semi-boneless

6 to 8

cut

preparation For Achiote Marinade: (1) Using coffee grinder, grind together first 5 ingredients, then transfer to bowl and smash in achiote paste.

3 tablespoons

¼ cup ¼ cup 2 tablespoons 1

Peeled and roughly chopped

Diced Diced Diced

(2) In blender, combine achiote mixture with salt, garlic, and juice, blend until smooth, with almost no grittiness, and reserve. See “Slow-Grilling the Quail,” below. (3) In large bowl, mix dressing and next 4 ingredients together until incorporated.

(4) Using hands, stuff quail, place on pan, and refrigerate for up to 1 hour.

slow-grilling the quail:

T E X A S

by jack gilmore and jessica dupuy

(1) Heat gas grill to medium-high, or light charcoal fire and begin when coals are covered with gray ash and very hot. (2) Either turn center burner(s) to medium-low or bank coals for indirect cooking. (3) Place quail on hot part of grill for 2 minutes, then turn over for 2 more minutes with lid closed. (4) Move quail to coolest part of grill. (5) Baste top of quail with Achiote Marinade. (6) Close lid for approximately 5 minutes. (7) Flip quail and generously baste with marinade again. (8) Grill until quail is thoroughly tender: Work in a fork near the bone; the meat should easily come free. Fall Entrées

233

A Night Out GIFT CARDS For every $50 Gift Card, you get $10 FREE!

Order the cookbook and gift cards online or pick them up at JAK’s. JackAllensKitchen.com


CONTENTS heirloom issue 8

notable MENTIONS

14

notable EDIBLES

BeeSweet Lemonade, Yard to Market Co-op, No Cow Chocolate, Milk + Honey, Community First! Village.

26

People

Jennifer Chenoweth: The art of hospitality.

50

behind THE VINES

Kiepersol Estates.

54

edible TERROIR

The flavor of tradition.

56

edible MEMORIES

In the service of royals.

62

edible BOOKS

Amelia Saltsman’s fresh take on tradition.

66

cooking FRESH

Liquid love.

73

what we’re DRINKING

With soup.

52 66

26

HEIRLOOM features 24 The Pie Guys The dudes who brought pizza to the East Side.

28

The Goat Man Cometh The goat revolution will not be televised.

30

Penny Adams Evolving with the wine industry.

74

department of ORGANIC YOUTH

Youth Food Jam.

78

hip girl’s guide to HOMEMAKING

A wall-flower no more.

80  LA CASITA de buen sabor

43

Understanding the present by way of the past.

46

The Directory

COVER: Berry Pie at The Frisco by Dustin Meyer (page 44).

A Return to the Family Tree Carrying on the legacy of these 38 pecan varietals.

52

Mr. Roy Something to smile about.

Picadillo: party in a pan.

85

The Art of Storytelling Through Food

60

Oh, Galveston Old island traditions carry on.


PUBLISHER’S NOTE

WHAT RHODA SAYS

PUBLISHER Marla Camp

ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER

I

t was a hot summer morning right after our Cooks issue hit the stands when self-declared “Edible Austin fan” Rhoda Russell called

our office and left us several messages. The upshot of them was “I need phone numbers. Remember that not all of us have computers

Jenna Northcutt

EDITOR Kim Lane

or are young; we need help a little bit.” She went on to say, “It would

ADVERTISING DIRECTOR

be helpful if you put phone numbers and addresses in these stories

Dawn Weston

unless for some reason that’s illegal.” Referring to our story on Sala & Betty, she explained, “I don’t have a computer, but I’d like to go eat there and call them and see what’s up.” The irony of this took my breath away. Our mission is all about connecting our readers to our story subjects—and here was a clear failure on our part to do so. Several years ago, we eliminated addresses and phone numbers with our stories and replaced them with website addresses, where, of course, you can go to find the phone numbers and location addresses. Unless you are elderly-and-not-tech-savvy. Unless you don’t have a computer. Unless you’re the new millennial who eschews digital-everything for back-tobasic methods of communicating.

COPY EDITOR Anne Marie Hampshire

EDITORIAL ASSISTANTS Claire Cella, Dena Garcia, Angela Chapin-Holt, Cari Marshall, Michelle Moore

ADMINISTRATIVE ASSISTANT Susanna Cassady

ADVERTISING SALES

Hmm.

Curah Beard, Valerie Kelly

We called Rhoda back and gave her the information she was asking for. Turns out that Sala & Betty is a bit out of her driving range, but she did get the phone number for

DISTRIBUTION MANAGERS

University of Texas Press to inquire about buying a copy of Toni Tipton-Martin’s “The

Leary Kelly

Jemima Code” advertised in the issue. “I’d be interested in buying that book. I need phone numbers,” intoned the voicemail recording. Advertisers, take note. In our push to stay current and relevant in the digital age, we inadvertently overlooked a core part of our purpose—making connections happen. Not everyone has a computer. Or, broadening the scope, not everyone wants to use a computer when a simple phone call would do. Or even a visit. So, Rhoda Russell, we hear you. As of this issue, we are putting phone numbers back into the contact information for stories—and adding contact information to more of our stories. After all, we are hopefully just the first step toward forging long and fruitful relationships between our readers and the subjects we write about. The more ways to connect us all, the better. Now go visit The Frisco at 6801 Burnet Road for a slice of pie and say hello to Mr. Roy. You can read his story on page 44. Organize a soup swap to celebrate the winter harvest and sharing food with friends. Find inspiration on page 58. And please support our 2015 Eat Drink Local Week benefiting Mobile Loaves & Fishes. A story about its Community First! Village is on page 22 and details about our week of activities are at edibleaustin.com. Or call 512-441-3971. Happy holidays, y’all.

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HEIRLOOM 2015

EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

ADVISORY GROUP Terry Thompson-Anderson, Paula Angerstein, Dorsey Barger, Jim Hightower, Toni Tipton-Martin, Mary Sanger, Carol Ann Sayle

CONTACT US Edible Austin 1411A Newning Ave., Austin, TX 78704 512-441-3971 info@edibleaustin.com edibleaustin.com Edible Austin is published bimonthly by Edible Austin L.L.C. All rights reserved. Subscription rate is $30 annually. No part of this publication may be used without written permission of the publisher. ©2015. Every effort is made to avoid errors, misspellings and omissions. If, however, an error comes to your attention, please accept our sincere apologies and notify us.


Start planning your week at EdibleAustin.com Benefiting Mobile Loaves & Fishes An Evening with The Beekman Boys Nov. 29 | 6 PM

Harvest Dinner Dec. 3 | 6:30 PM

THE PARAMOUNT THEATRE

Palm Door on Sabine

They’re not typical farmers in the least, but Josh Kilmer-Purcell and Dr. Brent Ridge are quick learners on The Fabulous Beekman Boys, the runaway hit reality show on the Cooking Channel. The series is an amusing look at their adventure, which took root when the couple left urban lifestyles behind — Kilmer-Purcell is a best-selling author, and Ridge is a former vice president with Martha Stewart’s company — to buy the Beekman farm. There, they raise goats, pigs, chickens, and a llama, and produce organic products such as goat milk soap and cheese.

Join us for a winter harvest bounty by Bread & Circus Supper Club, featuring a seasonal, local feast served family style.

Edible Austin VIP Reception VIP tickets include a pre-show reception with an opportunity to meet the Beekman Boys while enjoying locally sourced, seasonal tastings from: LENOIR Hoover’s Cooking Barlata Tapas Bar Café Josie featuring Barcelona Cellers, Tito’s Handmade Vodka and craft beer

TICKET INFORMATION General Admission: $30 Student: $20 VIP: $100

For tickets, visit austintheatre.org or call 512-474-1221. Proceeds from the event support the historic Paramount Theatre and Mobile Loaves & Fishes.

TICKETS $55

5 Days of Giveaways Nov. 30-Dec. 4 Follow us online @edibleaustin #EDLW15 In the spirit of holiday giving we’ll be giving away locally inspired packages each day via our social media to 5 lucky readers!

Other Ways to Get Involved Be Local Want to find more local food and artisans? Visit edibleaustin.com to find an easy way to be local in any part of town with our farmers market map and locally sourcing restaurant map.

For more information visit edibleaustin.com/eatdrinklocal Thanks to our Sponsor


notable MENTIONS GET THE BEST AT WURSTFEST Tickets are now on sale for “the best 10 days in sausage history”— the annual Wurstfest! This year, the festival in New Braunfels will kick off on Friday, November 6, and continue every day until Sunday, November 15. All 10 days will be packed full of the best of German, Alpine and Bavarian culture with musical performances, dancing, special events, rides, games and, of course, sausage. You may purchase tickets for $10 at the door and they’re also available in advance online for $8. Visit wurstfest.com or call 830-625-9167 for more information.

TEXAS OLIVE FEST The 3rd Annual Texas Olive Fest will once again bring local food, wine, art and live music to the tasting room and mill house of the Texas Hill Country Olive Company. This year, guests who visit this stunning organic olive orchard in Dripping Springs on Saturday, November 14, will have the chance to watch gourmet chef demonstrations, attend health and food seminars and nibble and sip the best the Hill Country has to offer in food and wine. The festival will be held from 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. and advance tickets are on sale now. Find out more at texasolivefest.com or call 512-607-6512.

THE FABULOUS BEEKMAN BOYS KICK OFF EAT DRINK LOCAL WEEK AT THE PARAMOUNT If you haven’t been watching the Cooking Channel’s runaway hit reality show, “The Fabulous Beekman Boys,” don’t worry. On Sunday, November 29, you can catch them live! This event, presented by Edible Austin and the Paramount Theatre, promises to be just as fabulous as the “boys”—Dr. Brent Ridge and Josh Kilmer-Purcell. Come learn and laugh as we celebrate these two city-turned-country boys who can certainly teach us a thing or two about fun on a farm. This event kicks off Edible Austin’s annual Eat Drink Local Week, and we think there’s no better way to honor our city’s sustainable, cultural and culinary wonders than participating in this and the other special events planned for the week. The Paramount Theatre show offers a VIP ticket option that features an opening reception at 6 p.m. to meet Ridge and Kilmer-Purcell and sample delicious treats from local chefs from Lenoir, Barlata Tapas Bar, Hoover’s Cooking and Café Josie, plus craft beer, Tito’s Handmade Vodka cocktails and wine from Barcelona Cellers. Showtime is 7 p.m. Following the show, get a head start on holiday shopping in the theater lobby with an artisan farmers market featuring some favorite local food and gift vendors. Proceeds from this and other events throughout the week will benefit Mobile Loaves & Fishes. For tickets, visit austintheatre.org or call 512-472-5470. For more information about Eat Drink Local Week, visit edibleaustin.com/eatdrinklocal or call 512-441-3971. 8

HEIRLOOM 2015

EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM


Come toast an extraordinary harvest.

Historic spring rains and rich Brazos Valley soil have yielded an outstanding 2015 Royalty pecan crop. Ideal for holiday gifts and for adding a burst

Health & Flavor In a Nutshell

of flavor to holiday delicacies, Royalty pecans are brought to you at the peak of freshness from our family-owned farm. Come taste the freshness here at the farm or at RoyaltyPecans.com. Mention this ad for a

Free Texas Wine Tasting Offer good thru December 31, 2015

RoyaltyPecans.com Bryan, Texas 800.694.8362 Hwy 21 on the Brazos River


EdibleAustinTom Lea915.pdf

1

9/21/15

2:37 PM

FAMILY FUN AT ROYALTY PECAN HARVEST FESTIVAL AND PIE BAKING CONTEST With Thanksgiving right around the corner, the Royalty Pecan Harvest Festival in Caldwell couldn’t be better timed. Together with a pie baking contest, this event offers the opportunity to stock up on all things pecan as well as test your beloved pie recipe before family and friends arrive in a few weeks. In addition to shopping and baking, Royalty Pecan Farms has planned a full day of activities from face painting, crafts, and games for the kids to wine tastings for

C

adults and live music for everyone. This year’s festival will be held

M

on Saturday, November 14, from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. Call 800-694-8362 or

Y

visit royaltypecans.com/harvest-festival for more details.

CM

MY

RAISE A MUG FOR SUDS

CY

As Austin continues its dynamic ascendance, it has welcomed and nurtured equally vi-

CMY

brant communities. The Austin Homebrew

K

Appreciation Society is one of these, and on Saturday, November 14, from 6 to 9 p.m., Detail of Lonely Town Oil on canvas by Tom Lea, 1937

Courtesy Catherine Lea Weeks and James D. Lea

they’re inviting members both old and new to celebrate the craft at the Austin Home Brew Festival. In order to attend, you’ll need to be a member, but if you’re interested in beer and brewing, you’ll

TOM LEA:

Chronicler of 20th Century America On view through January 3, 2016

no doubt see the benefits. All membership proceeds are donated to the AHB Community School. Visit ahbfestival.org to become a member and for more information about the festival.

HEAD DUE EAST Mark your calendars, because the increasingly popular annual East Austin Studio Tour (EAST) is set for the weekends of November 14–15 and November 21–22. Now in its 14th year, this free and self-guided art event offers prime viewing of Austin’s Eastside creativity from local artists and artisans who open up their studios, galleries and spaces for the public to see and experience. We’re even more excited this year because we’ve learned where we can score some delicious pozole along the way (see our story on page 26). Visit eastaustinstudiotour.com for more information, or call 512-939-6665. You can start planning your route with the 2015 collectible catalog, which contains a pull-out map. It’s free and will be available to the public at all City of Austin Public

You won’t miss the snow.

Library branches on November 9.

LIGHT UP THE NIGHT AT THE WILDFLOWER CENTER Experience the warm glow of thousands of luminaries lighting up the grounds of the Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center. Luminations, an Austin holiday tradition, will be Saturday and Sunday, December 12 and 13, from 6 to 9 p.m. Enjoy the natural beauty of the grounds as they are cast into a veritable wonderland. There will be plenty of kids’ activities in the gallery, too. Admission is $5 for adults, $3 for youth, ages 5–17. The event is free to members of the Wildflower Center and children ages 4 and un-

w i l d f l o w e r . o r g/ e v e n t s 10

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EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

der. Food donations will be collected for Capital Area Food Bank. Visit wildflower.org, or call 512-232-0100, for more information.


The exhibition is organized by Americas Society, Inc., and made possible by the generous support of the National Endowment for the Arts; the New York State Council on the Arts; the New York City Department of Cultural Affairs; PRISA/Santillana USA; SRE/AMEXCID – CONACULTA – INBA and the Mexican Cultural Institute of New York; Jaime and Raquel Gilinski; Mex-Am Cultural Foundation; and Grupo DIARQ. The exhibition catalogue was made possible in part by a grant from Furthermore: a program of the J. M. Kaplan Fund. Support for the exhibition at the Blanton is provided in part by Isabella Hutchinson and Diego Gradowczyk. Media Sponsor: Univision Alfredo Boulton, Pampatar, ca. 1953, Photograph of the living room of Alfredo Boulton’s beach house, Margarita Island, Venezuela, designed by Miguel Arroyo, Collection: Fundación Alberto Vollmer, Caracas

Blanton Museum of Art / The University of Texas at Austin / MLK at Congress / Austin, TX 78712 / 512.471.7324 / www.blantonmuseum.org


PAELLA COOK-OFF AND FESTIVAL IN MANOR On Saturday, November 14, Paella Lovers United will host its 13th annual Paella Cook-Off and Spanish Culinary Festival in Manor. Held each fall, this outdoor event starts at 1 p.m. and “runs until we’re done.” Attending guests have the chance to taste, see and smell a simmering selection of paellas entered in the cook-off, in addition to enjoying traditional tapas and live Flamenco music and dancing. Advance tickets are required. Visit paellaloversunited.com to find out more information, buy tickets or register your cook-off team.

HOLIDAY FESTIVITIES ON HISTORIC MAIN STREETS Southeast of Austin, downtown Bastrop kicks off the season with Lost Pines Christmas, featuring holiday activities almost every day from November 27 through December 20. The three-week celebration includes a dizzying array of events, including a Harvest Art Fest, a River of Lights promenade, a Winter Market from the Fine Arts Guild, a lighted Christmas parade, carriage rides, an ice-skating rink and even a World War II Radio Christmas (with a 1940s costume competition). Visit lostpineschristmas.com for more information. And head west to Fredericksburg, which also kicks off the holidays on November 27 with the annual lighting of the German Christmas Pyramid and the Community Christmas Tree at Marktplatz. Throughout December, the town hosts an array of events that feature German traditions, timeless holiday décor and endless Christmas cheer. Go to visitfredericksburgtx.com/holiday or call 888-997-3600.

BRING ON BACON AND BEER! If you love bacon—and are passionate about beer—we have an event for you! The 3rd annual Austin Bacon and Beer Festival will be held at Fair Market on Sunday, January 24 from 2:30 to 5 p.m., presented by Edible Austin and Eat Boston. Bacon-loving chefs will prepare mouth-watering bites, and many of your favorites from the craft brew scene will be on hand to pour their specialties. Visit edibleaustin.com for ticket and event details.

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HEIRLOOM 2015

13


notable EDIBLES WHEN LIFE HANDS YOU LEMONS, ADD HONEY

I

t’s not every CEO who starts an interview by jumping from behind the interviewer’s back and laughing at the look of surprise

on his face. But when the CEO is 10, you can cut her some slack. Actually, it’s a relief to know Mikaila Ulmer is still a kid at heart, because her company is growing up fast. Since she started bottling her honey-sweetened flaxseed lemonade for Austin’s East Side Pies, BeeSweet Lemonade has expanded to sell four flavors (mint, ginger, prickly pear and iced tea) all around Austin and in 32 Whole Foods Market stores across four states. In March 2015, Ulmer appeared on the TV show “Shark Tank”—attracting a $60,000 investment and giving her another platform to spread the word about the plight of bees (she donates some of the profits to groups helping the beleaguered insects). It’s the latest in an uptick of media appearances and speaking engagements for Ulmer that will make her miss 10 days of sixth grade this year.

Ulmer plans to expand into other parts of Texas and more Whole Foods Market stores across the country. She also has two new flavors

“I wouldn’t say it’s been hectic, but it’s been busy,” she says, before

in the works, but like a pro, she avoids revealing what they’ll be. And

turning to her mom to ask how many “store demos we’re doing in this

through it all, she hasn’t lost sight of the fact that she’s doing it for

segment.” She can dish out that sort of business lingo with the best of

the bees. “When I started in business, I thought you had to choose

’em, but unlike many executives, what she says actually makes sense

between making money and solving a problem,” she says. “Now I

to people outside the business realm. Per a teacher’s request, she

know you can be sweet and still be profitable.” —Steve Wilson

recently taught her class how to read a financial statement.

Visit beesweetlemonade.com or call 512-710-5366 for more.

CRAFT CIDER

TA P R O O M O P E N I N G FA L L 2 0 1 5

AUSTIN www.texaskeeper.com

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There’s living. And there’s loving life. We’re here to help with the second one. Our intriguing blends of herbs and botanicals support energy, stamina, focus, and overall

®,©2015-2016 East West Tea Company, LLC

well-being. Cup after cup, day after day, life is good.

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in that space for people who grow enough to reach beyond their own home but who aren’t going to buy ten acres of land and start a farm,” says Annelies Lottmann, director of operations. She and six other gardeners who met through the Urban Patchwork and Texas Master Gardener programs banded together to launch the group in late 2013. Gardeners who join up don’t have to do a whole lot beyond growing their food organically. In return, the co-op handles their marketing, sales and distribution, and provides discounts on seedlings, compost and other supplies (such as T-shirts reading “Talk Dirt to Me”). Co-op owners take home as much as 80 percent of their own sales from the co-op’s stand at HOPE Farmers Market every Sunday, while participating non-co-op members typically take home 50 percent of their sales. That’s great for the gardeners, but what do the customers get out of it? More choice, says Managing Director Lesley Williamson. “Gardeners grow crazy unique varieties of fruits, vegetables,

GREEN THUMBS UNITE!

F

nuts and herbs that farmers don’t necessarily mess with, and eggs too,” she says. Indeed, when was the last time you saw quail and duck eggs at the grocery? You may just find half a dozen of each

inancially speaking, there’s no profit in backyard gardening.

at the co-op’s booth, alongside shiso (an herb used widely in Jap-

You can’t grow enough to sell at a farmers market, so you have

anese cuisine) and other exotic herbs.

to give away your surplus before it goes bad. All that sweat and

Customers who buy from the co-op also have the satisfaction

toil just to inundate the neighbors with free tomatoes? There’s got

of knowing they’re helping what may be the first gardener co-op

to be a better way.

of its kind in the nation, according to Williamson. “We follow a

That’s the reasoning behind Austin’s Yard to Market Co-op, a group uniting 30-plus organic gardeners under one name (and one farmers market tent) to sell their produce together. “We’re

democratic model, and people are excited about being part of that and supporting us.” —Steve Wilson Visit yardtomarket.coop for more information or call 512-537-6238.

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SATURDAY NATURAL TALKS Always free! Always empowering! Come in to see us! Mon.–Sat. 10–6:30 or visit us online.

theherbbar.com 200 W. Mary St. 512.444.6251

CHRISTMAS TREES 14 ACRE GARDEN CENTER ORGANIC GARDENING SUPPLIES VEGETABLE GARDENING HEADQUARTERS 830-693-9348 4201 FM 1980, Marble Falls www.BackboneValleyNursery.com 16

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LEWIS WINES visit by appointment Johnson City 512-987-0660 lewiswines.com


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’TIS AN EASIER SEASON

T

he silent nights of the holidays are anything but silent when food sensitivities leave your stomach gurgling with sounds of

revolt. That’s why No Cow Chocolate is rolling out an expanded line of dairy- and soy-free yuletide treats. Getting festive is no big transition for a company founded on the need for an allergy-free Easter. “I had to replace my Cadbury Creme Eggs,” Sandy Phillips says of the time she learned she had food allergies. That was 2013, and it took a whole year for her and her husband, Scott, to perfect a recipe in the rarefied world of

www.naturalepicurean.com

|

512.476.2276

|

Located in Austin, TX

allergen-free chocolate. “It’s trickier to make this way,” she says. “We have to work fast and pay attention to what we’re doing so it doesn’t turn into frosting.” The couple took the extra step of renting an industrial kitchen for their exclusive use to ensure that no leftover nuts or other contaminants would get into their mixes. And to produce their eight flavors including orange, raspberry and mint, they use only pure oils, which are free from problematic ingredients. The end result is a chocolate high in natural cocoa butterfat that satisfies the brain as well as the tongue. The couple mostly sells their Christmas, Easter and Halloween lines via their website, but they’ve expanded into a growing roster of farmers markets and chocolate-friendly businesses around town, including Roaster’s Coffee Cafe and Big Top Candy Shop. In the coming year, No Cow plans to roll out more ambitious creations—such as chocolate chips for restaurants that want to take their gluten-free pancakes to the next level of allergy-free goodness. It’s an idea Phillips may not have had if she wasn’t in the same boat as her customers. “I make it because I want to eat it,” she says. —Steve Wilson For more info, visit nocownohow.com or call 512-410-5763.

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OUR

e t i or v a F

THINGS 2014 Retailer of the Year

From Our Homes to Yours Come in and Shop Our Top 10 Lists for Gifting and Enjoying this Holiday

We’ve put together lists of our favorite wines, spirits and accessories to make your holiday shopping easy. Whether you are looking for a special gift or a complement to your holiday meal, you will find the perfect selection here.

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Mon-Sat 10am-9pm, Sun Closed

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THE BEE’S NEEDS

W

hen Milk + Honey founder Alissa Bayer learned of bee colonies collapsing the world over, she knew she could do

more for the insects than just naming her spa after the sweet stuff they make. “The almond milk I buy for my kids often goes out of stock because the bees that pollinate the almond trees aren’t doing well,” she says. “I wanted to get as directly involved as I could to help.” Because Bayer can’t drastically change the environmental causes or ban the suspected poisons that contribute to killing off bees, she hit on the next best thing: building beehives at Milk + Honey. When she proposed housing thousands of swarming, sting-y bees on the spa’s roof to her landlord, for some strange reason he didn’t call back. That wasn’t the only problem she faced: Bayer herself is allergic to bee venom. Fortunately, she had spa massage therapist Anna Gieselman at the ready. With the landlord’s eventual blessing, Gieselman, an expert beekeeper and owner of Bee Amour jewelry, set up four hives atop the Wright Bros. Brew and Brew near

the dry spells. (The downtown bees have thrived near the river,

Fifth Street and I-35, and six more on a plot of borrowed land just

but the Bee Cave bees have had a rougher go of it because of low

off—you guessed it—Bee Cave Road.

rainfall.)

Under Gieselman’s direction, a small group of Milk + Honey

Bayer wants to add more hives down the road, but she’s in no

employees volunteer to maintain the hives. Trained in the art of

hurry to sell the honey, use it in the spa or even give it away. “It

indulgence, they give the bees the proverbial “spa treatment”—

depends on how much we can harvest later, but for right now, it’s

raising them organically without pest-controlling chemicals, and

their food, and they need it.” —Steve Wilson

providing generous helpings of sugar water to help them through

Find out more at milkandhoneyspa.com or call 512-236-1115.

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21


HOME AND MORE

M

obile Loaves & Fishes has set down deep roots with its Community First! Village, a permanent place to live, work and

thrive for more than 200 of Austin’s homeless. On a gentle hill in East Austin near the fairgrounds, the 27-acre village features 100 lots for RVs; 125 micro-homes, canvas-sided cottages or platform tents; and 12 tepee sites (all available for a modest monthly rental fee), plus winding streets, lots of garden space, crowing roosters, decorative windmills and even a giant chess set. Nearing completion, the village aims to provide what the group says homeless people need most: neighbors. “The underlying theme of people on the street is that they’ve had a catastroph-

is a way to ensure that residents don’t get sent back to the streets.

ic loss of their family or support network,” says Mobile Loaves

Beyond stable rents, people who live in the village’s innovative

& Fishes’ Community Relations Director Sarah Boettcher. “We’re

mix of housing will also have the chance to work. Community

not just trying to alleviate part of the problem, the way a soup

First! Village also includes Genesis Gardens, a blacksmith shop, a

kitchen does. We’re going to the heart of the problem by helping

bed-and-breakfast, an art house, a food trailer and other opportu-

them become part of a community.”

nities for residents to experience the benefits of earning what the

It’s the natural next step for a group that started giving out food,

group calls “a dignified income.”

clothing and sermons from a van to the homeless in 1998. Since

“There’s no better way for people to feel a sense of dignity than

then, the ministry has grown to serve more than 4.5 million meals,

to give them the opportunity to make an income,” says Boettcher.

using 15 trucks to deliver about 75 meals each day of the year. For

“People need more than a home.” —Steve Wilson

the past 10 years, the ministry has provided housing for 99 homeless people in motor homes across Austin, and had an 87 percent

P roceeds from Edible Austin’s Eat Drink Local Week will benefit

success rate keeping the occupants there. But with RV parks as sus-

Mobile Loaves & Fishes this year. For more information about

ceptible to rent hikes as all other housing in Austin, the new village

Community First! Village, visit mlf.org or call 512-328-7299.

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HEIRLOOM 2015

23


edible ENDEAVOR

THE PIE GUYS BY C L A I R E C E L L A • P H OTO G RA P H Y BY M E L A N I E G R I Z Z E L


“It’s one product with which the possibilities and combinations are limitless…infinite.”—Michael Freid

D

espite what you may think, East Side Pies was not born at

Luckily, this isn’t New York, and Polk and Freid have found, and

1401 Rosewood Ave. in that signature building lined with

grown, an appreciative audience in Austin. And they’ve enjoyed

beige brick, topped with corrugated tin, wallpapered with

getting to have their way with the copious amounts of fresh and

concert flyers and dripping with local love. East Side Pies is ac-

quality ingredients available here. A visit to the shop on an aver-

tually much older than that, and really began within the walls of

age Saturday afternoon might find a pie featuring bounty that was

Mojo’s Daily Grind—a former 24-hour coffee shop from a long-

harvested less than 24 hours ago, such as peppers from Tecolote

ago Austin that some of us have been here long enough to remem-

Farm, eggplant from Springdale Farm and greens from Johnson’s

ber. It was there, in 1994, that two men met almost every day—one

Backyard Garden. They get peaches (when in season) from Lightsey

just beginning his job as a baker and the other just ending his

Farms in Mexia; the meatballs are made from grassfed beef from

nightly duty managing the Emo’s stage. It was there that these

Bastrop Cattle Company; and the crushed red pepper for sprin-

two men sat over coffee, played chess, talked philosophy, became

kling comes from Southern Style Spices in Manor.

friends, grew into family and, ultimately, started something special. These two men are Michael Freid and Noah Polk.

Next year, East Side Pies will celebrate a momentous 10-year anniversary. Polk says he remembers being in the kitchen more

Over the course of their friendship, Freid and Polk discussed a

than nine years ago and saying to Freid, “You’re most likely go-

void they’d noticed in Austin’s East Side—a neighborhood that, at

ing to see my kids born.” And he was right. Since then, Polk has

the time, not only lacked a pizza establishment but also reliable de-

gotten married and has had two children, one of Freid’s children

livery service. With the dawning of this realization, Freid and Polk,

has graduated from college and family members have passed on.

who proudly refer to themselves as “stoner pizza delivery dudes

“Life has kept going and has never stopped,” says Polk. “And we’ve

forever,” opened East Side Pies in 2006. “We were born to be pizza

been there for each other. It’s not all pizza all the time. I knew we

guys,” says Polk as he glances over at Freid. Then, without hesita-

would experience a lot together. I knew it was long term. I knew

tion, they both burst forth almost in unison, “C’MON…we LOOK

we weren’t quitters.”

like pizza guys!” The duo has opened three successful locations

Of course, it hasn’t always been easy. “We’re both loudmouths;

to date (on Airport Boulevard and Anderson Lane, in addition to

we both have opinions,” says Polk. “Like in anything—partner-

Rosewood Avenue) and has grown a loyal customer base. They’ve

ships, relationships—it’s a tough deal. We drive each other crazy,

even been heralded as creating Austin’s very own style of pizza.

but that’s all part of it.” While Polk and Freid may have had their

The foundation of this pizza is Freid’s thin and crispy crust, cre-

squabbles, they both know that, ultimately, they’re fighting for the

ated from a dough starter that’s almost 30 years old and that’s fol-

same goal, and in the end, they both win. And so do you, in the

lowed Freid’s baking career from New York to Germany to Florida

form of a delicious, piping-hot, edible canvas of creativity. In a

to Texas. Then the pies are ladled with almost anything but tomato

box. At your door.

sauce and topped with almost anything but mozzarella (although these classics are certainly offered). More likely, the day’s slices will feature a mixture of creative, daring and sometimes inconceiv-

Find out more at eastsidepies.com or call 512-524-0933 (Rosewood Ave.), 512-454-7437 (Airport Blvd.) or 512-467-8900 (Anderson Ln.).

able flavors—such as the watermelon-cantaloupe-relish concocted this summer to counter Austin’s unquenchable heat. Freid says this invitation for inventiveness was one of the many things that attracted him to the pizza business. “It’s one product with which the possibilities and combinations are limitless…infinite. We’ll get in a boxful of beets one week and before you know it, the staff has figured out that they can shave them real thin, infuse them with lemon and throw them on a pizza with pork!” Polk chimes in with more recent examples of staff creativity, such as jerk chicken, butternut squash and corn smoldering in a rich mole sauce; a blanket of chimichurri sprinkled with cremini mushrooms, bacon and Gorgonzola; and local peaches with pancetta nestled in clouds of ricotta. “I don’t think I’ve had a slice of plain pizza in months,” Freid adds with a laugh. “But if you talked to someone from New York, they’d say, What the %#&$ is this? Just give me a slice of cheese.” EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

HEIRLOOM 2015

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PEOPLE

JENNIFER CHENOWETH:

THE ART OF HOSPITALITY BY A N N E M A R I E H A M PS H I R E • P H OTO G RA P H Y BY J U L ES S L Ü TS KY

I

f you’ve attended the East Austin Studio Tour (EAST) since its inception in 2001, you likely have stories to tell about your favorite stops

along the way—a certain artist’s studio, a particularly impressive installation, a unique piece of art you fell in love with that now adorns your living room wall. And like many of the thousands of art appreciators who have participated in this annual ritual that unfolds east of I-35, you might also remember the soup. Jennifer Chenoweth’s soup, that is. Principal artist at Fisterra Studio, nonprofit executive director and all-around creative dynamo, Chenoweth has been a driving force behind the evolution of the annual arts marathon, and her home and studio on East Second Street have been a favorite stop from the beginning. “The first year we didn’t expect fifteen people to come, but it was more like five hundred,” she recalls. (To give you an indication of EAST’s explosive growth, there were 28 studios on the tour that first year. In 2014, there were upwards of 400.) And because Chenoweth is a tireless believer in the power of art to sustain communities, she decided to make that literal—by feeding the people who came for the art. In EAST’s second year, she started making pozole for the hundreds who wandered into her home and studio every day, and the tradition stuck. “Pozole is my ‘big-party-feed-a-lot-of-people’ dish,” she says. “It’s affordable, it’s gluten-free and I make a batch that’s vegan and a batch with organic chicken…so it feeds a TON of people. It’s the cheapest thing I can think of that’s good, but that I also love to eat. And now it’s become such a tradition that I couldn’t ever change it.” Chenoweth lived in Santa Fe before she moved to Austin, and she’s careful to specify that her version of the soup is Northern New Mexican, not Mexican, and that she uses a special brand of green


ing and connecting.” She adds that she looks forward to spending hours hanging out there—simply because it feels like home. “You don’t usually get to go into a stranger’s home and serve yourself food off their stove,” says Chenoweth. “I always run into people and they ask, You know what I always remember you for? and I say, Oh, God! And then they say, Your pozole! Thank God it wasn’t some drunken night at the White Horse or something. If it’s hospitality I’m being known for, that’s a very good thing.” The 14th annual EAST will be held November 14–15 and 21–22. Hatch chiles. “In Santa Fe, everyone bought frozen Bueno green chiles, because that’s the local company. So I usually get Fresh Plus to order me a case to make sure I have enough, because it’s not the same without these chiles.” Watching her chop carrots, onions and garlic with a Zen-like focus, you’d never guess how many plates she’s got spinning on a daily basis. It’s before noon and she’s already finished hanging art for a charitable event that her nonprofit, Generous Art, is holding at Blackbaud’s Austin offices. Generous Art serves four entities: artists, folks who love art, other nonprofits and businesses. The unique model works like this: When a piece of art is bought from one of Generous Art’s participating artists, 50 percent of the proceeds go to the artist and 30 percent goes to a local nonprofit of the buyer’s choice (there are more than 70 nonprofits currently on the list). The 20 percent remaining goes back to Generous Art, which is also committed to providing professional development for artists and aspiring artists. Then there’s Chenoweth’s own art. Recently at Silk Oak Park, she installed another phase of a public-art project being displayed in area parks. Each of her four featured sculptures will move to five different locations during the course of the exhibition. The project is under the umbrella of Chenoweth’s “XYZ Atlas: Hedonic Map of Austin”—a fascinating ongoing, multi-platform endeavor that uncovers the connections between emotions and geographical locations around Austin. One of her sculptures involved in the project is “Dance of the Cosmos”—a large-scale, steel, solar-powered lotus flower that opens and closes in sync with the sun. The 3-D representation of emotional wholeness debuted on the grounds of the Elizabet Ney Museum in July. And speaking of emotional wholeness, the pozole is now simmering on the stove, and the heady, smoky, spicy aroma is both powerful and intoxicating—and it certainly gets the heart pumping. Chenoweth understands this power. During the West Austin Studio Tour this year, she visited a Tibetan Buddhist temple on 45th Street, and the host there told her how important it is to attend to all the senses when welcoming visitors. “There was color, and light, and sound, and texture and SMELL—all the different things to consider when inviting someone into your space,” she says. Ask anyone who’s experienced Chenoweth’s pozole and they’ll tell you that it’s a big, welcoming hug—the epitome of the art of hospitality—and people remember her for it. Longtime EAST enthusiast Ish Kundawala says that Chenoweth’s place is a “wonderful first stop on the tour because there’s usually a mix of familiar faces and new faces all gathered in the kitchen eating and laugh-

For more information, visit eastaustinstudiotour.com or call 512939-6665, and for more information about the XYZ Atlas: Hedonic Map of Austin project, visit xyzatlas.org or call 512-482-0747.

JENNIFER CHENOWETH’S “BIG-PARTY-FEED-A-LOT-OF-PEOPLE” POZOLE BLANCO Makes 6–8 generous servings, but Chenoweth’s original recipe (multiplied by at least 4) serves dozens 4 15½-oz. cans white hominy, drained and rinsed 1 13-oz. container Bueno roasted and chopped Hatch green chiles (available at Fresh Plus or check store locator on buenofoods.com) 4–5 large carrots, peeled and chopped 8 c. vegetable stock (or 4 bouillon cubes and 8 c. water) 2 bay leaves 6 T. olive oil, divided 1 large white onion, chopped 4 large garlic cloves, smashed and minced 1 T. fresh rosemary, chopped (or 1 t. dried) 1 T. fresh oregano, chopped (or 1 t. dried) 1 t. crushed red pepper flakes Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste 2 lb. organic boneless, skinless chicken thighs, chopped into bite-size pieces Juice of 1 lime 1 small bunch fresh parsley, chopped 1 small bunch fresh cilantro, chopped Place the hominy, chiles, carrots, veggie stock and bay leaves in a large soup pot. Bring to a simmer on medium-high heat. Meanwhile, in a large cast-iron skillet, heat 3 tablespoons of the olive oil, then sauté the onions for a few minutes until soft. Add the garlic, rosemary, oregano, crushed red pepper, and salt and pepper, to taste. Sauté for a few more minutes until the flavors meld. Empty the contents of the cast-iron skillet into the soup pot. Without cleaning the skillet, return it to the heat and add the rest of the olive oil and the chopped chicken in a single layer. Salt and pepper the chicken, then sear the chicken pieces for 1 minute on each side. Deglaze the pan with lime juice, then cover and cook for about 7 more minutes. Add the chicken to the soup pot along with the parsley and cilantro. Keep the pozole at a low simmer for at least 4 hours before serving (it’s even better the next day). Depending on how long you cook it down, stir and reconstitute with more water every few hours. Remove the bay leaves before serving. At EAST, Chenoweth serves the soup with lime wedges, tortillas, chips and salsa (and lots of Lone Star in a keg out back). EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

HEIRLOOM 2015

27


farmers DIARY

THE GOAT MAN COMETH BY C L A I R E C E L L A • P H OTO G RA P H Y BY J O A N N SA N TA N G E LO


I

f you happen to stumble upon the herd of goats while roaming

Showroom. From there, Wolosin worked hard to get the meat into

the sun-drenched pastures of Windy Hill Foods, you might be

other restaurants, and his efforts were so successful that he could

surprised by their quirky personalities. Goats are curious and

no longer sustain his markets. He converted his business model to

lively creatures—quickly halting their fervent, head-down grazing

a co-op, and set out to find like-minded farmers and ranchers who

to lift and cock their scraggly, knobbed heads, then stare unblink-

grew organic produce, pasture-raised their animals humanely and

ingly at the newcomer. They’re adventurous, creative and unfet-

avoided the use of antibiotics, hormones, GMOs and soy products.

tered, too—infamous for fearlessly consuming whatever crosses

“As a realist, you have to know that one small farm can’t do it all,”

their noses and for mischievous fence-bounding, among other

he says. “But if a lot of smaller farms and individuals come togeth-

things. And with only the best intentions, one could safely say that

er, you’re bigger.”

farmer Ty Wolosin’s character is remarkably similar to these an-

It wasn’t hard to recruit participants—Wolosin pays market val-

imals he raises and sells across Central Texas. As owner and op-

ue, saves ranchers the auction fees for selling animals and saves

erator of Windy Hill Foods, Wolosin has had to exude equal parts

farmers the expense and time of delivery. In his refrigerated van,

ingenuity, stubborn perseverance and an unbounded perspective

he offers farm-to-restaurant distribution services in Austin, Dal-

as he’s grown this small ranch into a viable business—especially

las and, hopefully soon, San Antonio. To local businesses such as

in a state that’s as steadfastly loyal to beef as Texas is. It’s not easy

Whip-In, La Condesa and Max’s Wine Dive, Wolosin has become

changing mindsets, nor is it easy breaking through barbed wire

the veritable “goat man.” He also doles out eggs to Dai Due, boxes

fences, but he and his goats have done so all the same.

of figs to Bufalina and summer squash to Searsucker. “My ethos

It all started 18 years ago under the prowess of Wolosin’s moth-

from the very beginning has been ‘Texans feeding Texans,’” he says.

er and stepfather, Jan and James Williams, who moved from New

“We live in such a unique state where we can raise and grow a lot

Mexico to a 600-acre ranch in Goldthwaite, Texas, which also hap-

of things sustainably—whether it’s citrus in the Valley or goats in

pened to be home to a huge Angora goat herd. Almost overnight,

West Texas. We’re lucky to be in that situation and that’s my goal:

the Williamses found themselves raising goats in Mills County—

to support that and spread that.”

the “Meat Goat Capital of America”—though not selling them for meat yet.

Wolosin says that Austin’s rapid growth has helped—bringing in dozens of new restaurants and increasing culinary experimenta-

Wolosin, still in high school at the time, joined them a few years

tion and flair with menu items such as goat-meat pizza, goat tacos

later and began helping on the ranch and working at a feed store.

and goat burgers. And he loves when people tell him how much

Soon, he was off to college at Texas State University, but during his

they like the meat once they try it. His favorite aspect of the job,

sophomore year, he was diagnosed with thyroid cancer and faced

though, is the satisfaction he gets from working with the other

surgery and radiation. “After the surgery,” he says, “most people

producers. “The other day, the egg vendor stopped to tell me how

gain a lot of weight, and I did, too. I was bigger than I wanted to be,

much our partnership was helping them out,” he says. “It means a

so I started exercising and eating healthy. Because I was eating so

lot to me. It means that I’m doing what I set out to do.”

much produce, I switched to organic and started shopping at farmers markets. That experience really spurred my insight into what I

For more, visit facebook.com/WindyhillTX or call 254-979-1988.

was eating and where it was coming from.” Later, as a graduate student at the University of Montana, Wolosin’s thesis on political ecology and landscape change reflected a growing curiosity about who controls the food system. “I started questioning everything,” he says. “And since my parents had the ranch, I saw it as a great opportunity to do something—to really combat this big agribusiness.” In 2008, Wolosin moved back to Texas to his parent’s new and smaller ranch in Comanche and started digging in the dirt— and into new ideas. He took classes on sustainable agriculture and started growing and selling produce at farmers markets in Brownwood, Comanche and soon after, Abilene and Dallas. While he was selling produce, he was also learning more about goat meat. Texas raises 70 percent of the country’s supply, yet 90 percent of it is shipped out of state. Goat is a very healthy red meat, and Wolosin became more and more curious about why it was so rare to find it on menus in Central Texas. During 2011, when the drought set in and the cost of hay and feed skyrocketed, Wolosin decided to downsize by butchering part of the herd. He tapped into his growing network of food-growers and providers in Austin, put out the word that the meat was available and landed his first local customer: Sonya Coté, then at East Side EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

HEIRLOOM 2015

29


PEOPLE

PENNY ADAMS BY DAV I D A L A N • P H OTO G RA P H Y BY K N OXY

P 30

enny Adams’ connection to the Texas soil

ened just after high school, when she moved to

began early in life, during the many hours

College Station to pursue a degree in Texas A&M’s

spent visiting and helping out at her grand-

Horticultural Sciences program. There, she fell in

parents’ farm in Lubbock. The connection deep-

love with the science and art of growing grapes,

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and though grapes had grown in Texas since time immemorial, they hadn’t been grown for commercial wine production since before Prohibition. The inchoate Texas wine industry proved alluring to Adams, and while looking for a summer work-study program, she received a fortuitous phone call from a University of Texas professor, Dale Bettis, whose fledgling Blanco County vineyard was in need of a steward. In the early ’80s, the small Hill Country planting became Cypress Valley Vineyards—the fifth winery in Texas—and Penny Adams, who later married Bettis, Der Küchen Laden ∙ 258 E. Main St. Fredericksburg, TX 78624 830.997.4937 info@littlechef.com www.littlechef.com

was at the helm. Given the success of today’s Texas wine industry, it’s difficult to imagine what those frontier days were like. “My early career was definitely more challenging than today,” says Adams. “Texas wines weren’t taken seriously back in the early 1980s, and the industry faced many challenges that impacted our progress—mostly political and marketing challenges.” There was a good deal of gender-bias at that time, too, because the industry had traditionally been led by men. Yet, the essential skills required for the job are gender-neutral. “It is very physically demanding,” Adams says. “But I haven’t let that deter me in the least. Regardless of gender, the same skill set is required: a strong science background, mechanical skills, strategic management and organizational skills, a very strong work ethic, passion for the job and having a good palate.” And Adams relishes any opportunity to encourage and mentor other women wishing to enter the field. “Over the years, I’ve received

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tion as to how they might pursue this work,” she says. “What an honor to have others follow in my footsteps.” Though Adams is known as the first female winemaker in Texas, she’s spent most of her career in viticulture (the study of because many of the winemakers in Texas don’t grow their own grapes. Much of the grapes used are grown in the high plains of West Texas—if they’re grown in Texas at all. In 1979, there were only five wineries in Texas; there are now more than 350. Yet, the

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total number of acres under cultivation for wine grapes is fewer than 5,000—statewide. Just the central valley of California has more than 300,000 acres “under vine,” and that doesn’t include the hundreds of thousands of acres grown elsewhere in the state. Even


“We go into it with a strategy that starts in the vineyards. You grow

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—Penny Adams

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Texas wineries that have been in business since the 1970s are buying grapes from California. Adams believes that having her hands directly in the actual growing process has an impact on the finished product—in the same way that a passion for cooking can stem from a passion for gardening. “We go into it with a strategy that starts in the vineyards,” she explains. “You grow the wine in the field.” She also believes that it’s vital to understand the modern wine consumer. “Customers come to the tasting room asking for pinot noir and cab because that’s what they’re familiar with,” Adams explains. “Then there are those who think viognier is like the chardonnay of Texas, or tempranillo is our red grape.” (Although Adams remains unconvinced.) “Educating the customer is a top priority—find out what type of wine they like to drink, how and when they like to drink it, then steer them towards one that makes sense for them.” Adams’ approach to winemaking has paid off. Her latest venture is Wedding Oak Winery in San Saba, Texas. Founded in 2012 by local grape-grower Mike McHenry, the winery has won more than two dozen medals in its short existence—including a gold medal and “Best in Varietal” status for its 2013 sangiovese. And at the 35th annual San Francisco International Wine Competition, the winning streak continued. Wedding Oak’s 2013 albariño won “Best Albariño” and “double gold” status—meaning the judges were in unanimous agreement about the gold medal. Though she’s been involved in the Texas wine industry almost since the beginning, it’s a mistake to speak of Adams’ “pioneering” days in the past tense, because the industry is still constantly evolv-

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grapes and wines produced,” she says, “but also, improvements in wine quality and wine styles resulting from growing grape varieties in the best locations—expressing true terroir in the finished wines. I’m blessed to love my job, work with wonderful people and to help contribute to the rise and recognition of Texas wines.”

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HEIRLOOM 2015

33


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edible SCHOOLYARD

THE ART OF STORYTELLING THROUGH FOOD BY RAC H E L J O H N SO N

T

he first rain cloud of July moves slowly over Kealing Middle

for everyone to have different food,” adds Liu. “So when you

School—promising much-needed water for the on-campus

come together, you can learn about each other.” By visiting Sam’s

community garden. Eight raised beds comprise the garden,

BBQ and talking to Mays, both students were able to learn more

and rows of peppers, squash, kale and herbs are bursting into the

specifically about the food in East Austin, and the significance of

walkways, untamed by the harsh summer. A shed, constructed

building a community around food. “He told me that I would be

from donated materials, holds gardening tools and materials, and

successful when I get older,” says Liu. “That means a lot coming

the roof serves as a rain-collection device—funneling water into a

from him. When he sees success, he knows it.”

large storage drum. “If it ends up raining today, we’ll be collecting water,” science teacher Linda Pogue says excitedly

A’Lyrika Ransom, now a freshman at Lyndon B. Johnson High School, also participated in the project and interviewed cookbook

Though Kealing is divided into magnet and academy programs,

author Angela Shelf Medearis. Ransom’s interview focuses on the

the garden has always represented a shared space for students from

publication of Medearis’ cookbook and how it took determination

both programs to come and work together. Pogue serves as the main

and a peach cobbler to convince the publisher to read the manu-

garden coordinator—ordering equipment and overseeing student

script. “My peach cobbler has the powers to persuade,” Medearis

involvement. She hopes her seventh- and eighth-grade students will

says in Ransom’s article. “[Medearis] told us that food goes a long

focus their capstone projects on the garden so that important values

way in bringing people together,” says Ransom, and adds that the

such as composting and recycling can be carried on through high

Neighborhood Stories Project has taught her to be herself, to make

school. “The curriculum I use in my classroom is focused around

friends outside of her normal circle, to get out of her comfort zone

the garden, and I try to spend about half of our time outside,” Pogue

and to test her social skills. “I was a bit nervous at first, but [Med-

says. She’s a dedicated champion for the cause—advocating for

earis] made me feel very comfortable. I just knew she was a good

school improvements and enlisting students in the elective classes

woman and I could learn a lot from her.”

and after-school programs that help maintain the grounds.

The Kealing garden continues to inspire projects similar to the

Another dedicated champion of the garden and all that it can

Neighborhood Stories Project and further cultivate its essential

accomplish is former Kealing parent, Nine Francois. She’s worked

relationship with the surrounding community. Of course, the ef-

with the school since the garden’s inception in 2012, and she’s

forts rely on long-term commitments from sponsors in the com-

the current coordinator of the 2-year-old Neighborhood Stories

munity, parent volunteers and some support from the school’s

Project—an innovative way to connect food and the garden, stu-

budget. Francois has plans for the Neighborhood Stories Project

dents and surrounding community through storytelling. “For me,

to continue into the 2015/2016 school year, and the oral histo-

the agenda is social and it’s just doing it through gardening,” says

ries collected by students are now being archived by the George

Francois. “The garden is simply a hub.” The process is simple:

Washington Carver Museum and Cultural Center—reinforcing

Students come up with a range of questions—everything from

the importance of students learning more about the community

asking about personal food and garden histories and memories to

they live in and documenting history.

asking about changes in the neighborhood over the years—then,

To the great relief of the parched garden, the rain finally came

they conduct interviews with local community members. Photo-

that day in July—ringing in a new school year and the newest crop

graphs are taken of their subjects, and the students present and

of students. The act of coming together and learning through food

share their findings in the form of an article.

is changing the way students see their role at Kealing, in a true,

Allen Liu and Everett Butler, now eighth graders at Kealing,

full-circle learning experience.

interviewed Brian Mays of Sam’s BBQ last year. “He told us that barbecue is the original soul food of East Austin, and that it came

For more information on how to get involved, contact Nine Francois

from scraps—the leftover food,” explains Butler. “It’s important

at ninefrancois9@gmail.com EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

HEIRLOOM 2015

43


A’Lyrika Ransom is currently a freshman at Lyndon B. Johnson High School. Her interview with Angela Shelf Medearis appears here as it was produced as part of Kealing Middle School’s Neighborhood Stories Project.

44

HEIRLOOM 2015

EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM


edible ENDEAVOR

A RETURN TO THE FAMILY TREE BY SA RA H H O PWO O D • P H OTO G RA P H Y BY PAU L I N E ST EV E N S


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W

alking the streets of Seguin, Texas, is a passport back to a simpler time. Oak-lined streets lead the way through this modest town of 27,000, and its one main street showcas-

es the requisite small-town-Texas necessities: the bank, the diner… the giant concrete-and-plaster pecan proudly perched just outside the Seguin courthouse. Yes, you’re deep in pecan country, and Mark Walls has just returned home to his grandfather’s farm. Like many people in his generation, Walls left this town for col-

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lege and pursued a life of bigger dreams. An education at Texas State University led him to a steady job in technology sales and entrepreneurship—he and his wife started a medical billing company

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in Austin some years ago and have seen a good amount of success. But Seguin was embedded in his heart from birth, and the steady and constant pull from his grandfather’s legacy could no longer be ignored. Walls’ grandfather, E.W. “Doc” Darilek, grew up during the Great Depression in a small town about an hour from Seguin, and like

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millions of others at the time, “couldn’t rub two nickels together.” Darilek barely made it out of the eighth grade, yet despite the hardship, went on to become a dentist. He moved to Seguin in 1948 and purchased a 540-acre parcel of land with riverfront access—ideal

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where Darilek would repeatedly tell him the story of how he and his father started the orchard, nurtured the native trees and grafted 38 different varietals of improved pecan trees. Darilek would also talk about how important it was to create this legacy. He was very proud of what he’d achieved—not only for his family, but also for the community of Seguin. In fact, Darilek so loved his pecan trees that in 1962, he constructed and then gifted the city with the aforemen-

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tioned giant pecan homage. Darilek passed away in 1992, leaving his beloved pecan orchard to Walls, his brother Chad and son-in-law (and Walls’ stepfather) Gary Rainwater. And up until recently, Rainwater had been the sole caretaker of the farm. “Gary cares for Doc’s orchard better than anyone else,” says Walls. “He has everything to do with how well our orchard is doing.” But Walls always knew that going back to his roots was in the cards. “In the past, timing has held me back,” he says. “But now, all the stars are aligning to move forward with this passion.” And time is of the essence: Family pecan farms in Texas have been struggling in recent years. Local pecan farmers say their costs have multiplied tenfold since the 1960s. And pecan farmers are a dying breed—literally. According to USDA statistics, the average age of a Texas pecan farmer has risen—jumping from 56 in 2002 to 60 in 2012—while it had stayed stagnant at 52 years old for the previous 20 years. In addition, fewer and fewer of the children and grandchildren of pecan-growing families are staying on the farm to take over

From left: Gary Rainwater, Chad Walls and Mark Walls standing in the 38 Pecans grove holding a photo of “the world’s largest pecan,” in Seguin.

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EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

HEIRLOOM 2015

47


the businesses as their parents step down. As a result, Texas is seeing a disturbing drop in the number of pecan farms—losing 718 between 2007 and 2012. “We get inquiries in the mail pretty often from people wanting to buy the land,” says Rainwater’s wife, Sarah. “Not the pecans, just the land.” “And the young people are selling their farms,” adds Rainwater. “They’re dividing the land into fifty-acre parcels and selling them to housing developers or bigger corporate farms. They don’t have the money or it’s too much work for them.” Even in light of the numbers and facts, Walls took the risk and quit his job to take over the farm business and preserve the legacy. And he recently purchased The Pecan Barn in nearby Lockhart—a pecan shelling-and-selling hub that serviced several small pecan farmers for over a decade. Previous owners and pecan farmers, Sue and Gary Dickenson, had reached retirement age and, like so many others in the industry, were ready to move on. The newly renamed “38 Pecans” (coined in honor of Darilek’s 38 varietals), will serve as a continuation of The Pecan Barn, as well as a place to wholesale pecans from the orchard in Seguin. In a rapidly changing environment, it’s these kinds of steps that count toward preserving small farms, and therefore Texas pecan culture. “I want to grow this business and set it up for my kids and their future,” says Walls. After 20 years in business sales, his return to the farm business just feels right. “This orchard is in our blood,” he says. “And the farm is an extension of our family. If it died out, it would be letting Doc down.” Find out more at 38pecans.com or call 512-766-6964.

48

HEIRLOOM 2015

EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM


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HEIRLOOM 2015

49


behind THE VINES

KIEPERSOL ESTATES BY T E R RY T H O M PSO N -A N D E RSO N • P H OTO G RA P H Y BY SA N DY W I LSO N

T

here’s a good indicator that Texas wine is standing the test

a fellow soldier overheard another praying and thought he’d said

of time: a handful of the early Texas wineries are now into

“Lord, kiepersol,” when in fact he’d said, “Lord, keep us all.” Dirk

their second generation of family who’s either running or

envisioned generations of de Wets living and prospering on the

working in the operations. Kiepersol Estates, just south of Tyler,

land via a self-sufficient, mixed-farming operation. And they did,

is no different—and slightly ahead of the game—with three gen-

until Dirk’s son Pierre decided to immigrate to the U.S. in 1994 with

erations of the de Wet family working on the estate.

his two young daughters, Marnelle and Velmay, after the untimely

The original Kiepersol Estate was actually established in the Eastern Transvaal of the Union of South Africa in 1954. Founder Dirk de Wet named it in honor of an old war memory, in which 50

HEIRLOOM 2015

EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

death of his young wife. Pierre, a seventh-generation farmer, established the stateside Kiepersol Estate in its present location. The idea to add a winery to the estate came when Marnelle


and Velmay were in high school. Farming was definitely in their genes, and both were immersed in the study of agriculture. Marnelle began experimenting with growing grapes, and it was soon decided that the family would participate as well. Pierre planted the vineyard in 1998, on top of the Bullard Salt Dome—a location known for its fertile Jurassic soils that are perfect for nurturing

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grapevines. Fueled by her passion to hone her growing skills, Marnelle went to Napa Valley just after graduation to work at the highly regarded Trefethen Family Vineyards—studying the process of growing grapes and making wine. The first vintage at Kiepersol was harvested in 2000, and the wines were immediately embraced by the local community. As demand grew, more acreage was added—bringing the total to 63 acres of 15 varieties—making it one of the largest estate vineyards in Texas. Over the years, Pierre has added a tasting room, a restaurant, an elegant, European-style bedand-breakfast and a delightful RV park to the grounds. Kiepersol’s wines are made exclusively from their own estate-grown grapes. Marnelle is the winemaker and property

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manager, while Velmay is the operation’s chief financial offi-

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cer—handling the financial and legal aspects of the estate with the guidance and support of her father. “We learned as we went,”

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Marnelle says. “And definitely learned from our mistakes. It’s been an ongoing adventure!” Pierre says that he regards wine as nature’s blessing, and that it is imprinted with the hallmarks of each season—summer’s warmth, fall’s ripening—turning a perishable product into joy embodied and preserved. The family’s goal is to produce wines that can compete in the

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global market, and they’re marketed toward connoisseurs. Only the highest quality grapes are used in production of the wines, and only 12 wines are made. Marnelle says their practices marry Old-World winemaking styles with Texas grapes to produce wines that are “comfortable” and balanced. Each year, just prior to harvest, the de Wets scout the vineyard and select those vines that have the perfect balance of fruit, flavor and color to produce their Barrel No. 33 blend. Each vintage of this wine has been superb, and each has great aging potential. This is a wine to be savored with red meats, and is especially well-suited for lamb. The current 2010 vintage—a blend of cabernet sauvignon and merlot—was aged for 41 months in oak and is one of the most well-balanced wines imaginable. In 2012, Pierre added a distillery to the estate—making Kiepersol the only Texas property to hold both a federal distillery permit and

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a federal winery permit on the same property. Pierre refers to the distillery as his baby, and within its walls he produces small batches of Dirk’s Texas Vodka (made from the leftover grapes from each harvest and the pomace left after the wines are made), Jimmy’s Texas Bourbon and Pierre’s Texas Rum (made from Texas-produced molasses). All three of the spirits have already earned an impressive lineup of awards at various competitions around the U.S. The de Wet family is ambitious and hard-working, never content to rest on their laurels. They recently added a state-of-the-art demonstration kitchen to the property, which they named “Salt” in honor of the salt dome on which the winery sits. Stay tuned for their next adventures. For more information about Kiepersol Estates, call 903-894-8995 or visit them at kiepersol.com

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HEIRLOOM 2015

51


PEOPLE

MR. ROY BY K R I ST I W I L L I S • P H OTO G RA P H Y BY D UST I N M EY E R

52

HEIRLOOM 2015

EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM


“When you start doing something, stick with it. It’ll grow on you, and you’ll learn everything you need to know. By changing jobs, you have to start all over again.” —Roy Mallett

F

ew people have seen more changes to Austin, or its food scene,

to a full-menu experience—introducing the now-famous Night

than Chef Roy Mallett. The spry 81-year-old (affectionately

Hawk chili, the popular meatloaf and the made-from-scratch pies

known as “Mr. Roy” by friends and fans) has a broad smile

that he still makes today.

and a twinkle in his eye as he shares what it was like to start work-

But as much as Mallett loves cooking, he says the real joy of his

ing, in 1955, at the iconic Night Hawk restaurant at South Congress

job is being with the people he works with every day. “My wife

and Riverside—the first eatery in a burgeoning family of restaurants.

passed in 2004 and this has been my home,” he says. “They’re

“My cousin was a chef at the Night Hawk and he helped me get a

like my family. I love them all—from the waitresses to the cooks

job as a busboy,” he says. “I moved to dishwasher, janitor, then night

and our general manager Deborah [Donovan]. They treat me like

watchman. I think I had almost every job there but cooking.”

family and call me ‘Mr. Roy.’ That makes me smile.”

Mallett went back to his job as busboy in 1963—“after President

That feeling of being family is mutual. “Many of our team

John F. Kennedy was assassinated,” he notes—but shortly there-

members have worked here for over twenty-five years,” says Don-

after, one of the head managers decided it was time for Mallett to

ovan. “There’s something very comforting about walking into the

learn to cook, and made him assistant chef. “I didn’t grow up cook-

restaurant and seeing Mr. Roy hard at work baking the pies and

ing, but I learned by watching,” he says. “When I was a busboy, I

making the cold salads. It warms my heart to see him passing on

passed by the chefs all the time and could see them putting all this

not only his craft to a new generation, but the commitment to

stuff together. They didn’t know I was paying attention.”

doing what you love.”

In 1970, the Night Hawk’s head chef left and Mallett was pro-

“When you start doing something, stick with it,” Mallett ad-

moted to one of the highest-profile kitchen positions in town—a

vises. “It’ll grow on you, and you’ll learn everything you need to

big leap for this humble man from Manor. “I only have a ninth-

know. By changing jobs, you have to start all over again.” And

grade education,” he says. “But I learned everything I needed

when people ask Mallett why he doesn’t retire, he says, “I don’t

to do—count, read, you name it—through working at the Night

have high blood pressure, I don’t have ‘the sugar’ [diabetes] and

Hawk. I don’t know how I made it this far, but it was God’s will.”

my eyesight’s good. I’m blessed to be alive, and I can’t imagine

The new chef learned his craft, in large part, by trial and error. He started his day at 5 a.m.—an hour-and-a-half before the rest of the staff—so that they wouldn’t see any mistakes he’d made as they prepared for the 11 a.m. lunch crowd. “I didn’t want people to know

anywhere else I’d rather be.” For more information on when to drop in and say “Hi” to Mr. Roy, visit thefriscoaustin.com or call 512-459-6279.

how much I threw away before they got there,” he confesses. He quickly found his groove in the kitchen, though, cooking alongside his mentor Lela Jane Akin, owner Harry Akin’s wife. Together, they developed new recipes and updated the restaurant menu. “It was special to cook with her,” he says. “I learned so much.” The Akins were the soul of the restaurant group, key to its success and known for being generous employers who enthusiastically hired women and minorities before it was common to do so. “Mr. Akin was a nice man, a good man. I’ll never forget him,” says Mallett. “He always knew everybody by their first name.” As times changed and the Night Hawk’s popularity waned, the original downtown location closed. Instead of moving to the Night Hawk Steak House at 290 and I-35, Mallett landed at another restaurant in the family—The Frisco on Burnet Road. He helped transform the beloved diner from primarily a burger joint EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

HEIRLOOM 2015

53


edible TERROIR

THE FLAVOR OF TRADITION BY I L I A N A D E L A V EGA A N D I SA B E L TO R R E A L BA

C

ereals are the foundation

vor, color and texture are vital for

of all great civilizations—

making flawless tortillas, but con-

Europe had wheat, Asia

sidering that around 90 percent of

had rice and Mesoamerica flour-

the corn found in the U.S. is geneti-

ished on corn. Indeed, corn is the

cally modified, and that it’s primar-

backbone of Mexico’s cuisine and,

ily used to feed cattle, great flavor

as such, it holds the same impor-

is probably not the main priority.

tance for the country’s culture;

The American “dent” or “field” va-

many of the indigenous people

rieties of corn resulted in tortillas

even believed that humans were created from the crop. For many

that were good, but not superb, and we were missing the very

generations, corn’s versatility and vitality have shone brightly in

important influences of native terroir. It wasn’t until late last year,

the countless dishes and food staples that are made from it—from

when we found a purveyor who carries multiple native Mexican

tortillas and tamales to moles and soups such as pozole. The food

varieties of corn (white bolita from Michoacán and blue comiteco

of Mexico would lose its very essence without corn.

from Oaxaca, for example), that we became truly satisfied with

It’s debated whether corn, or maize, originated in Tehuacán, Puebla, or in the central valleys of Oaxaca, but it’s commonly

our product. Our tortillas went from being a vessel or accompaniment to playing a starring role.

thought that it came from a type of grass called teocintle. In Mex-

Of course, as important as flavor is—especially in the restau-

ico, we refer to the endemic types of corn as criollo (though this

rant business—our commitment to importing heirloom corn is

term denotes European ancestry when in fact, it’s completely

actually part of a bigger picture. The negative consequences of

autochthonous). These grains easily adapt to different climates,

genetic modification affect small, non-GMO farms the most, be-

altitudes and terrains—some perform better at sea level, while

cause it ultimately reduces their ability to compete in a saturat-

others excel in the mountains or in drier conditions. It’s estimat-

ed market. Even more at risk, though, are the ideological beliefs

ed that there are around 55 different heirloom or landrace variet-

and ethnic identities of the very people growing authentic, native

ies of the crop in Mexico, each with its own qualities, and used

crops. Even though we fully believe in buying locally and sup-

for specific purposes and to achieve different results. The colors

porting our local farmers, we also believe that a culture cannot be

range from white, yellow, blue and red, to pink or even purple,

truly understood or preserved without the nexus to their terrain

and the masa made from them may reflect the color or take on a

and, thus, to the things they’ve produced in those unique environ-

gray, green or brownish hue. As with all heirloom species, the end

ments for generations. The paramount role of native corn in the

product may not be appealing to the eye, but it will make up for it

culture of Mexico makes the higher price tag worth it—because

with unmatched flavor.

we know we’re serving something that not only tastes good, but

At our restaurant, El Naranjo, we’ve tried to find corn that tastes like the corn we grew up eating in Mexico. The right fla54

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that also has a positive impact on preserving Mexico’s history, culture and society.


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55


edible MEMORIES

IN THE SERVICE OF ROYALS BY L AY N E LY N C H

N

early 20 years after Princess Diana’s death, the world is

These days, Dallas is a top food destination in the region. But

still captivated by her, the “People’s Princess.” During

when McGrady first arrived to the urban epicenter, the culinary

her short life, fans across the globe fell in love with her

revolution had not yet taken root. Limited access to ingredients

innumerable charitable works, amiable nature, trendsetting fash-

wasn’t the only initial hurdle for McGrady. The style and culture

ion sense and distinct fragility. But the truth is, only a handful of

of American cuisine—mainly the Southern influence—was foreign.

individuals truly knew the princess and all her complexities.

Though it was an adjustment, he slowly introduced Texan nuances

One of those people happens to be Darren McGrady, a Dal-

into his traditionally British cuisine—and vice versa. For instance,

las-based chef and caterer who worked as a personal chef to the

the chef prepares shrimp and grits with sharp, salty lumps of Stil-

royal family and Princess Diana for 15 years at Buckingham Pal-

ton cheese; Texas pecan pie with English clotted cream ice cream;

ace and Kensington Palace. Through detailed menu-planning,

and scalloped potatoes with bright, aromatic sage Derby cheese.

McGrady came to know the Princess and her personal palate—

McGrady’s Texas home also introduced him to barbecue, now

crafting her favorites, such as savory stuffed peppers, decadent

one of his greatest culinary loves. “It’s not just smoking meat on a

tomato mousse and rich bread-and-butter pudding, while gabbing

pit,” he says. “It’s a culture and lifestyle of cooking. You sit around

with her over cups of coffee and making the “boys”—Prince Wil-

the smoker relaxing and drinking beer. You don’t get that any-

liam and Prince Harry—kid-friendly favorites such as homemade

where else.” In addition to barbecue, McGrady also enjoys the

pizza, loaded potato skins and roasted chicken.

fare at Dallas restaurants, such as Bolsa, FT33, Casa Rubia and

“It seems like only yesterday I was cooking for her and the boys,

Oak, but he admits that being a continent away from a former life

and now Prince William just welcomed his second child!” McGrady

can make you miss some of your favorite heritage meals: “I miss

says. “Those were the happiest times. She would walk into the kitch-

English lamb all the time,” he says.

en and start chatting with everyone. The princess wasn’t like the rest

Perhaps the days of hobnobbing with royalty are behind him,

of the royal family; the formality wasn’t something she’d expected.”

but the chef recently opened his own catering company called Eat-

Life with the royal family afforded McGrady innumerable once-

ing Royally (also the title of his first cookbook), which offers a near

in-a-lifetime experiences, such as cooking for five U.S. presidents

replica of the royal dining experience and exquisite service—think

and hundreds of kings and queens, trips around the world by air,

“Downton Abbey” with an American twist. “There are people who

land and sea and the chance to utilize the best meats and artisan

really want royal service you can’t find anywhere in the United

vittles the Earth’s bounty has to offer. “If Prince Charles was coming

States. I want to be able to give diners that experience.”

home and wanted a rack of lamb, we’d make a phone call and some-

The royal family has evolved immensely over the years, in

one would deliver the meat on a motorbike,” McGrady says. “The

part because of the modernity of Prince William, the Duchess of

access to ingredients was incredible. You never get that again.”

Cambridge and Prince Harry, who have all garnered reputations

Along with the rest of the world, McGrady was devastated by

for being kind, gracious and approachable. The once stuffy pre-

the loss of Diana, and ultimately decided to begin his life anew in

tension of the British aristocracy has greatly diminished, and in

Dallas—a city he had admired during a tour of the United States.

its place is a more progressive, relatable brood. McGrady can’t

“I decided that if I was going to leave, it would have to be to Dallas,”

help but think Princess Diana had everything to do with that swift

he admits. And for 17 years, McGrady has continued his culinary

transition. “She’d be so proud of both of her sons,” he says. “She

career working privately for a prominent family in the area.

always was.”

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Heat the oven to 350°. Cut the tops off of the peppers and clean out the seeds and membranes. (If the peppers won’t stand up, cut a little piece off the bottom to level.) Place the peppers on a baking sheet and drizzle with the oil. Bake for 25 minutes, or until they start to soften. Remove from the oven and allow to cool. Pour the oil from the peppers into a frying pan and add the onions, mushrooms, zucchini and oregano. Season the vegetables with the salt and pepper, to taste, and sauté over high heat until they start to soften. Add the tomatoes, rice, water and bouillon cube, and simmer for about 5 minutes. Adjust the seasoning. Fold in the bacon, basil and mozzarella and divide among the peppers. Sprinkle the Parmesan on top of the peppers and bake in the middle of the oven for 15 minutes, or until the cheese has melted and the filling is hot. EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

HEIRLOOM 2015

57


TOMATO MOUSSE Serves 6

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1 lb. tomatoes, peeled ¼ small onion, peeled ½ c. mayonnaise ½ c. sour cream 3 oz. heavy cream 2 t. tomato puree

1 small bunch chives, finely chopped 1½ 8-oz. packets of gelatin Juice of 1 lemon Salt and pepper, to taste

Blend the tomatoes with the onion in a food processor to produce a fine pulp. Strain the pulp through a fine-mesh strainer into a large bowl. Lightly fold in the mayonnaise, sour cream, heavy cream and tomato puree into the tomato pulp. Add a pinch of salt and pepper and the finely chopped chives and fold into the mix. Place the gelatin into a small pan and add the lemon juice. Melt the gelatin over low heat until it dissolves, then pour it into the tomato mix—stirring as you pour. Adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper, to taste. Pour the mixture into individual ramekins or a mold and refrigerate for at least 2 hours. Just before serving, run a small knife around the edge of the mold and turn out the mousse onto a plate. Slice and serve.

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HEIRLOOM 2015

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3 oz. raisins 4 T. amaretto or Cointreau 4 oz. unsalted butter, softened, divided 12 slices white bread, crusts removed 9 egg yolks 6 oz. super-fine sugar, divided 1 vanilla pod 5 oz. milk 15 oz. double cream 1 c. fresh berries 3 oz. sliced almonds, toasted Raspberry coulis, for serving Vanilla ice cream, for serving Salted caramel sauce, for serving The night before, soak the raisins in the amaretto or Cointreau and leave at room temperature. Heat the oven to 350°. Grease a 3-pint casserole dish with some of the butter. Use the rest to butter the bread, then cut the bread—8 pieces cut into triangles, 4 into cubes. In a bowl, whisk together the egg yolks and 5 ounces of the super-fine sugar. Split the vanilla pod, place it in a pan with the milk and cream, then bring to a simmer. Slowly pour into the egg yolks—stirring constantly. Scrape the seeds from the vanilla pod into the custard and discard the pod. Place the cubed bread in the bottom of the prepared dish, then top with the raisins and soaking liquid. Sprinkle in the berries, then finish with the remaining bread slices arranged on top of the fruit. Pour the warm egg mixture over the bread—making sure all of the bread is coated. Leave to soak for 20 minutes. Place the casserole dish in the oven in a roasting tray ¾ full of hot water. Cook for about 30 minutes. Remove from the oven and sprinkle with the remaining super-fine sugar. Place the casserole dish back in the oven under the broiler until the sugar starts to caramelize. Top with the sliced almonds and serve with the coulis, ice cream or caramel sauce, if desired.


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59


edible MEMORIES

OH, GALVESTON BY LO RA- M A R I E B E R N A R D

O

pened in 1911 in Galveston, Texas, by San Giacinto Gaido,

acumen in an era when people dressed for dinner and servers referred

Gaido’s Restaurant was already famous for its impeccably

to patrons by surnames and memorized orders.

fresh seafood and sophisticated Old World service when

Before landing at Gaido’s, Dietz had been in the Navy and had

Charlton Heston strolled in late one evening in the ’70s looking for

hoped to become a diesel mechanic. Instead, he got married when

a table. Benno Dietz, the dining room manager, told the actor that,

he was 24, had three children and decided to follow his father’s

unfortunately, the kitchen had already closed, and a hungry Heston

footsteps working in Galveston’s now-abandoned Falstaff Brewery.

walked away. (A few days later, Dietz would send his best waiter,

Life on the bottling line turned out to be less than fulfilling, though.

Clary Milburn, to serve Heston in his hotel room as a mea culpa.)

“I kept looking at my watch every five minutes,” he says.

Yes, 40 years ago, things were decidedly different on the island.

Meanwhile, across the island, Dietz’ high school buddy, Wayne

It was a time when families, customs and traditions ran Galveston’s

Gaido, had opened Wayne’s Drive-In Theater next to his father’s

best-known restaurants—there was no late dinner service or 24-

restaurant. The theater had carhops in crisp white jackets and bow

hour fast food. Corporate and chain restaurants wouldn’t arrive for

ties, and juicy charbroiled burgers for 45 cents—the most expen-

another 25 years to pivot this once-quirky island into a bustling re-

sive on the island. What Gaido didn’t have, however, was a partner.

sort destination, but today, even amid the glitzy neon signs dotting

Dietz was approached and accepted the offer. “He gave me half

the seawall, a visitor can still find legendary, old-Galveston restau-

ownership and we went broke a year later,” says Dietz. “You know,

rant style—and from the same two men that Heston encountered.

we were kids. We didn’t know what we were doing.” But Gaido’s

During the ’70s, Dietz and Milburn were just two islanders trying

continued to prosper, and by 1965, Dietz was made the cashier.

to make a living at arguably the only “fancier” dining spot available.

“I enjoyed that more than any other job,” he says. “I realized that

“Anytime you came to Galveston, you had to go to Gaido’s,” Dietz says.

working at something you liked to do for twelve hours was more

“That’s just the way it was. You go to New York, you see the Statue of

fun than watching the clock for eight.”

Liberty; you go to Galveston, you eat at Gaido’s.” It was at this restau-

Dietz became hooked on the restaurant business. “I started bug-

rant, and its private Pelican Club, that the men honed their service

ging them about the dining room,” he says. Eventually, he was made

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“I made good friends with the cooks in Galveston. We spent a lot of time talking about what we were doing and what food everyone was making.” —Clary Milburn dining room manager and began new waitstaff programs. He’d heard

greens for the next day’s plates,” he says. “I’d wait till the end of

about a revolutionary idea from Steak and Ale restaurants—the

lunch to eat, and [café owner] Mary Ellen would save something

group was training waiters, which was a novel concept. Since Gai-

for me and she’d bring her rag and sit down with me—wiping her

do’s employed only experienced waiters, Dietz began his own train-

sweat. It was just so great to have those connections.” Milburn

ing classes with local high school students to diversify the candidate

was also running his own janitorial business at the time, and lat-

pool. When a Houston Chronicle reporter visited the restaurant and

er a floor-stripping company. But when he started a lunch cater-

saw students following around experienced waiters, the newspaper

ing business in 1974, big changes were set into motion. He opened

devoted a quarter-page feature to the story. No one had ever seen

Clary’s Seafood Restaurant three years later.

waiter trainees before. “To have fun with the kids, I had them pro-

Dietz also ran an assortment of businesses while he was work-

nouncing Liebfraumilch Glockenspiel and all these wines,” he says.

ing at Gaido’s. He had prosperous rental properties and ran a

“Kids thought that was hot stuff to go up and suggest to someone

booming go-cart business on the beach—the Gaido family even

a wine.” After that, Dietz got a raise and the family gave him carte

helped him get the lease. In 1981, though, Dietz left Gaido’s, even-

blanche to change anything he wanted to in the dining room.

tually sold his go-cart track and in 1983, opened Benno’s on the

When Dietz was promoted to general manager, he made salad dressings along with the pantry staff and prepared service trays to

Beach—a hole-in-the-wall, flip-flop-friendly, Cajun-style diner. Then, he opened Benno’s Catering.

learn more about operations. He even hauled in the daily catch from

Like old-guard Gaido’s, Benno’s Catering and Clary’s Seafood

Port Arthur—getting a nickel a pound for every haul—and hurried the

Restaurant strive to uphold the old Southern charm and service

fish back to Galveston before the dining room opened each morning.

that now seems lost among the carnival-themed eateries current-

Milburn was one of the most experienced waiters at the restau-

ly dotting the Galveston seawall. Their menus were, and always

rant during that time. Looking for work, he’d arrived in Galveston

will be, tailored around what’s fresh and caught just off the island’s

via Louisiana when he was 19. Unlike Dietz, he says he always want-

beaches, oyster reefs and bayous. Both Deitz and Milburn require

ed to have a career in restaurants. His first island job was making

that servers don tuxedos, and both have signature recipes and com-

fountain drinks and sandwiches at the John Sealy Hospitality Shop

forting traditions that loyal fans have come to cherish and expect.

in the hospital district. “It was wonderful,” he says. “I had a chance

For example, Clary’s has long served a complimentary, hot-boiled

to meet all the doctors and the med students. In fact, a lot of the

gulf shrimp appetizer—an original recipe from the mother of a

doctors [at University of Texas Medical Branch] that you hear are

friend whose family was in the shrimping business. And Clary’s

retiring, were med students when I was working there.”

whole fried gulf flounder has been a stalwart favorite for years—it’s

In the late ’50s, Milburn was working at the Jack Tar Hotel—a

always cooked in a single, decades-old pan.

large beach-view hotel and resort complex with an elaborate pool

Until Hurricane Ike hit in 2008, locals and tourists frequent-

and luxury rooms on the island’s east end. The modern complex

ed these establishments with joy and loyalty. Afterward, a new

had a coffee shop called Coffee Cove, and a restaurant called Sugar

Galveston emerged with a diminished population and more chain

’n Spice. The club, Choco Galley, was part of an entertainment hub

restaurants. Benno’s beachside diner recovered, and today looks

flanked by the famous Balinese Room and the long-forgotten Ric-

like a storm surge never touched a single red-and-white-checkered

ochet Club. But in 1961, Milburn was hired at Gaido’s, and soon

tablecloth. But construction problems, and then a subsequent fire,

became a star waiter at the Pelican Club. “I made good friends with

wrangled Milburn’s ability to reopen Clary’s for almost four years.

the cooks in Galveston,” he says. “We spent a lot of time talking

“I went to have my pacemaker checked after we finally opened for

about what we were doing and what food everyone was making. I

the last time,” he says. “The doctor said it went off sixteen times

never intended to open a restaurant…I was just talking to friends.”

during those four years. If I didn’t have it, I would be dead now.”

Between shifts, he’d help at Squeeze-In Café on 39th Street in

Regardless of the struggle, Milburn welcomes the new Galves-

the alley. It was so popular at the time that, even in segregated

ton and, like his friend Dietz, says he’ll remain deeply committed

Galveston, white and African-American patrons would line their

to excellent service, fresh food and local flavor. Dietz says that if

cars on both sides and wait to get in, he says. Annie Mae Charles,

he had to do it all again, he would. “If I was twenty-three, I’d still

Galveston’s first African-American female police officer, used to

be here,” he says. “My family is here. I was born here. I’d like to

frequent the restaurant. She even helped prepare food after she’d

see what it will look like thirty years from now. It’s just going to

finish her patrol shift, Milburn recalls. “She’d help strip the collard

be beautiful.” EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

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61


edible BOOKS

AMELIA SALTSMAN’S

FRESH TAKE ON TRADITION BY RO B I N C H OT Z I N O F F

M

y copy of Amelia Saltsman’s “The Santa Monica Farmers’

for seasonal chefs of any religious or cultural background. “Even

Market Cookbook” was just about worn out, so when her

if you don’t know the names of all the holidays,” Saltsman writes,

new cookbook, “The Seasonal Jewish Kitchen,” arrived,

“a year’s worth of Jewish food bears a striking resemblance to any

I got into bed and read it like a novel. I then went into the kitch-

market-driven cook’s seasonal road map.” I like that almost as

en and produced gvetch (the “Romanian ratatouille”) and zucchini

much as this: “Schmaltz, chicken or duck fat cooked low and slow

latkes, and experienced a psychological breakthrough. I used to

with onions, and gribenes, cracklings made from poultry skin and

think of Jewish food as either wonderful (my father’s chopped liver

onions, are at the core of the Ashkenazic food identity. Over the de-

with hard-boiled eggs and bits of onion) or god-awful (a chicken

cades, they have gotten a bad rap by some as unhealthful, outdated

boiled into submission by someone’s mother in 1950s Yonkers). But

and overused. I have three words for you: duck-fat fries.”

it turns out that the cuisine of my forefathers contains both nuance

“The Seasonal Jewish Kitchen” has a little bit of everything—Salts-

and breadth. And even though this book’s organization follows the

man’s own story, the wide-ranging culinary history of a wide-ranging

yearly cycle of Jewish holidays, it’s an everyday ethnic cookbook

people, political activism on behalf of sustainable farmers and entic-

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“...if you stop and think about the fact that Jews have been on the move for thousands of years, you realize that Jewish culture is exceptionally diverse, and by definition, exceptionally opinionated.” ing photographs starring Saltsman family heirlooms and California

meats, herring, bagels, lox and cream cheese—it’s defined by East-

produce. Because she likes “looking and cooking and reading and

ern- and Central-European Jewish immigrants from the late 19th

digging around,” Saltsman has unearthed some traditions that may

century. But if you stop and think about the fact that Jews have

surprise even the most observant Jew. “Simchat Torah,” she writes,

been on the move for thousands of years, you realize that Jewish

“is one of my favorite holidays: a celebration of books and learning,

culture is exceptionally diverse, and by definition, exceptionally

with music, dancing, and throwing back vodka shots to mark the end

opinionated. I wrote this book as an outsider, realizing that your

of the holiday season. What’s not to like?” Not much. Ditto for the

definition of Jewish food and mine might be very different. And

Iraqi funnel cake recipe, the story about the oyster knife and the

now when someone says, “Wait…that’s not Jewish food!” I can say,

loving portraits of two grandparents from two continents. How

“Well, yes it is.”

did Saltsman cram all this into a book? Read on. You’re a citizen of where—Santa Monica, right? But also…the world? I’m a mutt! But really, my heritage is one of great diversity. My mother’s family is from Romania, my father’s family is from Iraq, my parents met in the Israeli army, I was born and raised in California, and I think I was Italian in another life. Were you always a food person?

Take a dish like hummus. People might think it’s Jewish. Or Arab, or Israeli or Lebanese or Palestinian. Everyone can claim the patrimony of hummus. So what is it? An exciting, ethnic flavor. I’m not claiming that the foods in my book are only Jewish, just that they belong in the Jewish canon. Oh, and when you ask if a food is Russian or Jewish, I would say that basically, Jewish food is regional. There are Jews everywhere in the world, and before you could fly a peach 10,000 miles, what was there except regional food and local cooking?

I was exposed to a lot of different flavors early on. When I became a food writer, I realized that I had powerful food memo-

But that was true for everybody, Jewish or not.

ries that I could still recall in a sensory way—moments where my

Right, but on top of that is a layer of religious mandates and

palate was defined. Somehow, from my earliest childhood—and

dietary law. Take the Jews of Central Europe—that’s not an olive

I’m not kidding about early—I was always extremely open to food

oil region, it’s an animal-fat region and the primary animal fat was

from anywhere. We lived in a primarily Japanese neighborhood

pork. The Jewish cooking of Central Europe is regional cooking,

and I remember my parents saying, What? She needs to stop at the

plus cultural adaptation.

Japanese store and get the dried cuttlefish? So, no pork fat? Chicken fat instead? What was your experience of Jewish food, growing up?

Schmaltz and gribenes, and from there, it’s not a very far leap

As the child of Israelis, newly immigrated to the United States,

from cassoulet to cholent. I like that there’s a back-and-forth. [Cho-

who had come to study at the university, I lived in my own kind

lent is a traditional, slow-cooked Jewish stew eaten on Shabbat

of diaspora. I wasn’t with my extended family except on special

that contains meat (chicken or beef), potatoes, beans and barley.

occasions, but we traveled back to Israel when I was a child and

Originating in the south of France, cassoulet is a traditional, slow-

that exposed me to the fact that there was something different than

cooked casserole that contains most of the same ingredients, ex-

what I was raised with.

cept that pork is widely used.]

I was interested to read that not all Jewish food is the Ashkenazi

Speaking of which, you write about “fennel and eggplant

food I grew up with. Your book also made me wonder if the

moving from Jewish food into mainstream Italian cuisine.” I

foods I thought were Jewish were actually Russian.

didn’t know that.

For most Americans, Jewish or not, Jewish food means deli

It was a journey of discovery and exploration for me, too. EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

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I never knew it was a bigger

like a negative person, but I’m

mitzvah (good deed) to feast before Yom Kippur than to fast during it. Neither did I. Honestly, my own traditions are very varied, and I’ve come to appreciate that mix of experience. That’s true for a lot of people.

here to tell you people can really screw up latkes. Soaked in oil or burnt on the outside before they’re done on the inside. Believe me, I was on a mission to fix that bad rap.

What are some of your go-to recipes for winter seasons—

Did you go to synagogue as a

November-December or Jan-

kid?

uary-February?

Nope. The only year I went

I want people to be aware of

was the year my mother taught

two things: winter salads and

Sunday school. I was four or five.

roasting vegetables to bring out

And we used to go to holiday cel-

flavor. We think of salads as let-

ebrations at the Israeli consulate.

tuce, tomato and cucumbers 365 days a year, but there’s so much

So you made your own Jewish

more—winter slaws, quick-pick-

traditions?

led turnips and beets—to wake

There are a lot to choose

up our taste buds and bring us

from! I have photos of three

color and joy. As for roasting,

generations at the stove making

being able to throw something

latkes together—my mother, my

in the pan, shove it in the oven

kids and me—each with our own skillet and spatula. Cooking to-

and produce a brilliant result makes our lives easier and brings

gether is so entwined in what we do that two days after my son

out the best in whatever we’re cooking. It’s a way of paying re-

Adam was born—during Hanukkah—we were all making latkes

spect to the ingredients.

and drinking champagne. Any plans for Tu B’Shvat [the birthday of trees] this year? In this book, you divide the seasons into two-month sections.

In this time of drought and climate change, I’d like my family

How well do you think that works for the United States? It

to go tree-planting with TreePeople, a Los Angeles organization. If

seemed to line up pretty well with what happens in Austin.

the weather is nice, I’d like a picnic that includes winter fruits, veg-

As a student and teacher of the seasonal approach, I realized

etables and grains: citrus and avocado salad with spicy greens; one

that thinking in two-month increments is a lot easier and less over-

of my grain-bowl dishes that works at room temperature (freekeh

whelming. It helps break through the “summer is this and winter is

with kale, butternut squash and smoked salt); and squares of spiced

that” mindset. Looking at it through a Jewish lens, I saw that the

date and walnut oatmeal cake for dessert.

Jewish lunar calendar lined up with these two-month increments. ginning of October, but they basically occupy the September-October period. Same thing with Hanukkah—it falls right into November-December. The foods of the Jewish holidays are so utterly seasonal. After a lifetime of seasonless everything, thinking in seasons can be a big shift.

In your recipe for pomegranate-orange gelée, you write that “gelatin desserts deserve a comeback.” Why? And what’s the difference between gelée and Jell-O? Gelée is just French for Jell-O! Actually, Jell-O is a trademark brand name for an industrialized gelatin dessert. I was scarred, as a child, by Jell-O. But now I’m intrigued.

Wait, wait. Who had a lifetime of seasonless everything? Everyone did. We shopped at supermarkets and as a society, we lost our sense of seasonality. Because if there are peaches in De-

The equivalent of Proust’s madeleine could be the old Jell-O mold recipe someone’s mother made. But the artisanally produced, homecooked or restaurant-made version is always going to taste better.

cember at Whole Foods, I guess peaches must be in season. We’re starting to realize that doesn’t work.

This cookbook actually isn’t just for Jews, is it? No! Jewish food is for everyone, because everyone eats Jewish

Going back to Hanukkah for a moment, I loved that you in-

food whether they know it or not. It’s a cultural cuisine and a

cluded an entire guide to latkes in your book. You don’t seem

patchwork of regional cuisines, seasoned with meaning.

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Photography of Amelia Saltsman by Patricia Williams

The High Holy Days might fall at the end of August or the be-


FROM “THE SEASONAL JEWISH KITCHEN” Reprinted with permission from “The Seasonal Jewish Kitchen” © 2015 by Amelia Saltsman, Sterling Epicure, an imprint of Sterling Publishing Co., Inc. Photography by Staci Valentine.

FREEKEH WITH KALE, BUTTERNUT SQUASH AND SMOKED SALT Makes 6 servings Freekeh, fire-roasted green wheat, is a perfect canvas for autumn vegetables. The grain’s smoky notes are enhanced with smoked paprika (pimentón in Spain) and smoked salt. This dish is great for entertaining, as it can be served at room temperature or made a day ahead and reheated. It is also delicious made with farro or red or black quinoa. The cooking method for freekeh comes from Orie Habshoush, grandson of the founder of a spice, legume and grain shop near the Levinsky market in Tel Aviv. If you are using whole grain freekeh, allow several hours for soaking.

POMEGRANATE-ORANGE GELÉE WITH A CITRUS SALAD Makes 8 servings Gelatin desserts deserve a comeback. This easy, from-scratch gelée has a luscious silky texture and jewel-tone appeal. It is a refreshing finish to a rich meal, a beautiful autumn starter, or a between-course palate cleanser. Orange tempers the more assertive flavors of pomegranate; feel free to shift the balance of juices, keeping the total amount of liquid the same. If possible, use freshly squeezed pomegranate juice available in season where the fruit is grown. Autumn pomegranates symbolize the hope that one’s blessings in the new year will be as plentiful as its many kernels (arils). 3 c. (720 ml) pomegranate juice 1 c. (240 ml) strained fresh orange juice (from 3 to 4 oranges) 2 packets (¼ oz./7 g each) unflavored gelatin 2 T. sugar 2 t. orange flower water In a measuring pitcher, mix together the pomegranate and orange juices. If any pulp rises to the surface, skim it off. Pour 1 cup (240 ml) of the juice blend into a small bowl. Sprinkle in the packets of gelatin and let stand for 5 minutes to soften. In a medium pot, bring 1½ cups (340 ml) of the remaining juice blend almost to a boil over medium heat. Turn off the heat and stir in the sugar and the gelatin mixture, stirring until completely dissolved. Stir in the remaining juice blend and orange flower water, mixing well. Pour into small jelly glasses. Cover and chill until set, about 4 hours. (The gelée may be made a day ahead.)

1 c. freekeh (155 g), preferably finely cracked 1 small butternut squash, about 1¼ lb. (570 g) 1 small bunch tender kale, such as cavolo nero, about 6 oz. (170 g), or ¼ lb. (115 g) loose-leaf baby kale 3 T. extra-virgin olive oil 1 t. smoked paprika Kosher or sea salt 1 small onion, chopped 2½ c. (600 ml) hot water Smoked salt for finishing If using whole or cracked freekeh, soak in water to cover for at least 6 hours or up to overnight, then drain well. If using finely cracked freekeh, skip this step. Halve the squash and remove and discard the seeds and fibers. Using a vegetable peeler, peel the squash halves, then cut into cubes no larger than 1 inch (2½ cm). You should have about 3 cups (420 g). If using a bunch of kale, strip the stems from the leaves and discard, then massage the leaves to tenderize, if you like. If using baby kale, skip this step. Roughly chop the leaves. In a wide pot, heat 1 tablespoon of the oil over medium-high heat. Add the squash, the smoked paprika, and a little kosher salt and cook, stirring occasionally, until the squash is golden in places and crisp-tender, about 10 minutes. Remove from the pot and set aside. Add 1 tablespoon oil, the onion, and a bit of salt to the same pot and sauté until the onion is soft and golden, about 10 minutes. Stir in the kale and cook for 2 minutes. Push the kale and onion to the side of the pot. Add the remaining 1 tablespoon oil and the freekeh and cook for 1 minute, stirring to coat the grains with oil. Stir in the water, squash, and about ½ teaspoon kosher salt, cover, reduce the heat to medium-low and cook until almost all the water is absorbed and the freekeh is tender, about 20 minutes. Uncover the pot and cook until all the water is absorbed, about 5 minutes longer. Transfer to a serving dish and sprinkle with the smoked salt. Serve warm or at room temperature. EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

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cooking FRESH

LIQUID LOVE BY A N N E M A R I E H A M PS H I R E • P H OTO G RA P H Y BY J OT E K H A LSA

I

t’s the parched and muggy end of August in Austin—mid- to

a few years now. And they don’t need an official event either; on

upper-90s most days (not counting the heat index)—and this

any given month they’ll make soup and swap it with each other so

day is just like the rest of them. While the A/C struggles to

that for a few days afterward, they can get that Christmas morn-

keep its cool, it’s hard not to be worried about the turnout for what most would say is an unseasonable gathering: a soup swap. Mmmmmm…steaming hot soup in August?

ing feeling every time they open their refrigerator doors. This group didn’t come up with the concept. This version of soup exchanges started around 1999, when Knox Gardner—a us-

But sure enough, the faithful enter one by one, laden with

ability expert in Seattle—was in the midst of a long, dark winter in

boxes or coolers full of quart-size mason jars of soup, bottles of

the Pacific Northwest and got the idea to share his warming soups

wine and beer, loads of crackers and cheese, chocolates, dips and

with friends, and vice versa. Over time, Gardner worked out a sys-

spreads and more hugs and joviality than one could ever think

tem for swapping, and eventually, in 2005, after the concept spread

possible on a molten Saturday afternoon. Ah, the soup swappers

to Boston, New York, California and elsewhere, National Soup

have arrived. And they are really excited about their soup.

Swap Day was born. It’s observed the third Saturday of January

Soup-swapping has become a ritual in the lives of these wom-

(generally regarded as National Soup Month), and the “holiday”

en, who talk, make and swap soup any chance they get—going on

has gained wide national, and even international, attention. “Every

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Soup-swapping offers endless opportunities to stir a little more goodness into the world.

year, there are a few soup swap locations around the world,” Gard-

And now “The Telling of the Soup” is about to begin. It’s one

ner says. “My favorite is those folks in Australia who find out about

of the central and most-loved aspects of Gardner’s soup-swap

it and then email me confused as it’s the middle of their summer.

methodology, and goes like this: Each swapper picks a number

But as we say: ‘Swap when you can!’ So if June is the most compel-

out of a hat, which is the order in which they will tell the story

ling time to swap soup, do that.”

of their soup, its ingredients and whether it has a special signifi-

Indeed, swappers here in Austin give no heed to season when

cance in their life or any other reason they chose to make it. Then,

it comes to soup. “We are hard-core,” says Amy, a devoted swap-

when everyone has taken their turn “telling,” the swapping begins

per. For her and many in the group, the joy comes every bit as

(in the same numbered order) and one by one, each chooses one

much from making the soup (six quarts divided into separate

quart of soup until they’re all gone.

quart-size containers) as it does from the bounty taken home in

Gardner says that this part of the swap can get competitive. “Our

the end. Before she pulls her precious cargo up the street in a

Seattle group is pretty fierce. Last year, I butchered our own chick-

wagon on the day of the swap, Amy posts on Facebook: “Patty

ens for a clean consommé, for example,” he says. “Still, a good story

Griffin Pandora station and the sound of my soup jar lids pinging

can sell a soup more than fancy ingredients. The first time someone

in the background as they seal…bliss!”

brought crackers to go with their soup, I thought I would faint! But EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

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now people are so tricky in trying to get people to pick their soups.”

there’s no treat to entice.” But then she goes on to say that it’s the

Today, “The Telling of the Soup” is both heartwarming and trash-

best %#&$ing soup she’s made in her %#&$ing life…and she’s not

talky, but it’s all in good fun—these women know each other well.

even kidding you. It turns out everyone believes her, and her soup is

Susan shares that her sopa verde de elote is green because she sau-

snatched up with record speed.

téed zucchini in a %#&$-ton of butter…and then onion and garlic—

While this particular group only swaps vegetarian soups to ac-

loads of that. “Oh, sorry,” she suddenly says to fellow swapper Jodi,

commodate everyone’s eating preferences, today there’s a rogue

who has a sensitivity to onions. “I thought about the onions and your

element. “Well, I’m the only one who brought bacon to a vegetar-

gastric distress on the way over.” She continues with: “Then there’s

ian soup swap,” Raini admits when it’s her turn—referring to her

lots and lots of corn, green peas…and then FOR MARCELA, a Hatch

bags of bacon bits as garnish for her okra tomato hominy zucchini

green chile.” (Marcela is known for her aversion to Hatch chiles).

soup. “My intention was to get everything from the farmers market

“But it’s not spicy. It just adds a little: Huh, I wonder what makes this

this morning, but I decided to sleep late because I drank too much

soup so good?” She then presents her soup’s garnish: roasted pepitas

wine last night,” she continues. As a counterpoint, Anne says of her

artfully presented in little reusable tea bags.

summer squash soup, “The squash came from the farmers market

Clearly, these swappers know their soup, and they know what

this morning. It’s a really simple soup with yogurt and onions, and

sells it. “I made this one because Asa loves it,” says swapper Jote.

it calls for hot sauce, but all I had was Scotch bonnet [peppers], so

(Asa is Susan-of-the-verde de elote’s 6-year-old daughter.) “It’s my

I tried to take it easy for the kids.”

mom’s ‘fakie’ chicken noodle soup that she started making back

When the swapping concludes, everyone packs away multiple

when Whole Foods was Safer Way. It’s the one I grew up eating,

quarts of soup to be taken home and savored. But the group con-

and the one my kids grew up eating and the one your kids grew

tinues chatting, snacking and holding the youngest member of the

up eating.” A reverent hush descends over the otherwise raucous

party: wee Baby Hank—barely a month old—who happily sleeps

gathering—but not for long. Marcela, who’s a regular at these

in various arms during the revelry. During this swap, his family

events—but whose husband Eric is always the one who actually

is the recipient of donated quarts of soup to line their freezer as

makes her soups—jokes as she holds aloft a quart of Eric’s spicy

little gifts to be consumed when sleep deprivation and constant

carrot coconut soup: “There may, or may not have been, special

baby-tending make finding nourishment a chore. According to

favors involved in the creation of this soup.” Kayci, who brought

Gardner, these tiny—and sometimes, really big—ways of giving

corn chowder with individual, hollowed-out bread bowls, explains,

back to the community are common among swappers. There’s a

much to everyone’s amusement, that her soup contains “happy but-

group in Indianapolis, for example, who puts on enormous soup

ter” (meaning, from cows treated humanely and pasture-raised),

swaps for a food bank, and a group in Jersey City who holds theirs

“happy cheese” and “happy half-and-half.” “Half-happy, half-sad?”

in a church to raise funds for an AIDS hospice.

quips Kim, who later has a dark confession to make when it’s her

Soup-swapping offers endless opportunities to stir a little

turn to talk about her mushroom leek white wine bisque: “Two

more goodness into the world. It’s also a party with a purpose,

things that terrified me about this soup are that it has NO veggie

a practical way to share a big vat of homemade love while mak-

stock—you use water…water! And NO GARLIC. The way this reci-

ing or deepening connections. “Cooking is usually something I

pe goes is that you make the broth from the mushroom stems, and

do alone, feeding people—children—who sometimes appreciate

then you slice the caps. And I was intrigued, but I thought, This is

it, but more often, don’t,” says Jodi-of-the-onion-sensitivity. “The

never gonna work. But it is SO GOOD.”

soup swap lets us celebrate our cooking. It’s a party while we’re

And speaking of so good, Kathie sells her soup with a profane kind of passion. “I made portabella cauliflower soup, and I have to say…it’s ugly, and I didn’t put a beautiful fabric topper on the jar, and

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together, and then the party continues. I ate Carly’s soup for lunch today and it was like a midday friend-hug.” For tips on how to throw a soup swap party, visit soupswap.com


Now, please give a big round of applause for the Soup Swap AllStars. These soups appear at this group’s swaps by popular demand and are likely to be snatched up quickly.

CARLY’S “FRIEND-HUG IN A JAR” SMOKY BUTTERNUT SQUASH SOUP WITH CURRY-ROASTED SEEDS Makes about 2 quarts For the soup: 3 lb. butternut squash (1 large or 2 small) Olive oil 1 T. butter 3 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed

JOTE’S MOM’S “GENERATIONS-PLEASING” FAKIE CHICKEN NOODLE SOUP Makes about 6 quarts 1 lb. egg noodles 1 T. canola oil 1 small yellow onion, chopped small 3–4 stalks celery, chopped small Salt and pepper, to taste Bragg’s Liquid Aminos, to taste 2 medium carrots, peeled and diced 1 medium zucchini, chopped small 2 T. butter 3 garlic cloves, minced ¾ c. textured vegetable protein (TVP) ¼ c. nutritional yeast flakes, or to taste 1 t. dried dill, or to taste Cook the egg noodles until al dente, drain and set aside. Heat the oil in a soup pot. Add the onions and celery and sauté with a bit of salt and pepper until the onions are translucent. Add 2 cups of water and a good squeeze of the Bragg’s bottle. When it comes to a boil, add the carrots and zucchini. When it comes back to a boil, add another 2 cups of water and another squeeze of Bragg’s and let it simmer until the carrots and zucchini are tender. Meanwhile, melt the butter in a heavy skillet on medium-low heat. Add the minced garlic, stirring frequently to keep it from sticking or over-crisping and becoming bitter. When the garlic is golden and tender, mix in the TVP so that the butter is absorbed and the garlic is thoroughly mixed in. Add salt and pepper, to taste. Toast the TVP—turning over in the skillet fairly frequently to keep it from burning. When it smells garlicky and nutty, turn off the heat and let

3 c. vegetable broth 1½ t. smoked paprika Salt and pepper, to taste Fresh cilantro, chopped (optional) 1 lime, cut into wedges (optional)

Heat the oven to 375°. Slice the butternut squash lengthwise (do not peel), then scoop out and reserve the seeds. Lightly brush the flesh side of each squash half with olive oil. Lightly brush a baking sheet or other large, shallow, oven-safe dish with olive oil, and lay the squash halves on it, flesh-side down. Using a fork, poke a few venting holes in the skin of the squash. Roast, uncovered, in the oven for about 30 to 45 minutes or until the flesh is very tender. Set the squash halves aside until they are cool enough to handle. Meanwhile, melt the butter in a small skillet. Add the garlic and sauté gently for 1 or 2 minutes until fragrant. Remove from the heat. Scoop the squash flesh out of the skins and transfer to a blender. Add the vegetable broth, paprika and garlic butter to the blender. Puree until completely smooth. If you prefer a thinner soup, add more broth, a tablespoon at a time, until it reaches the desired consistency. Transfer the mixture to a large stockpot and bring to a simmer—stirring frequently. Let simmer for 10 to 15 minutes. Add salt and pepper, to taste. Serve hot and garnish with the curry-roasted seeds, fresh cilantro and lime, if desired. For the curry-roasted seeds: 2 t. olive oil Garam masala, to taste Turmeric, to taste

Cayenne or chipotle powder, to taste Salt, to taste

Remove the pulp from the seeds, rinse thoroughly and pat dry. Place on a baking sheet and drizzle on the olive oil (enough to lightly coat all the seeds), then sprinkle generously with garam masala, turmeric, cayenne or chipotle powder (optional, if you like more heat) and salt, to taste. Stir so that the seasonings are evenly distributed and arrange the seeds in a single layer. Bake at 375° until they begin to pop, but take care not to let them burn.

it rest. Add the TVP mixture to the soup stock, then add more water (the TVP mixture will absorb a lot of the liquid) and a bit more Bragg’s to get the desired amount of “soupiness.” Sprinkle in the nutritional yeast and the dried dill and stir. Let the soup simmer for about 10 to 15 minutes. Taste and add more Bragg’s, salt and pepper, and nutritional yeast until it tastes just how you like it. Add the egg noodles at the end (toss ’em in so that they stay pretty firm, but let the soup simmer long enough to warm them through). EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

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AMY’S “WAGON-DRAGGIN’, LID-POPPIN’” GOLDEN CREAMY CAULIFLOWER SOUP Makes about 3 quarts 2 small or 1 large head cauliflower, cut into florets (about 12 cups) 2 T. olive oil 1 small onion, diced 4 large garlic cloves, minced 3 c. peeled and chopped potatoes 2 c. peeled and diced carrots 8 c. vegetable stock 1 T. salt 2 T. Sriracha hot chili sauce ½ c. nutritional yeast flakes Dash of tamari, as needed, for more saltiness Steam the cauliflower florets until tender. Heat the olive oil in a soup pot over medium-high heat. Add the onion and sauté, stirring frequently, until the onion is soft and translucent—about 5 minutes. Add the garlic and cook—stirring—for another minute. Add the potatoes, carrots and vegetable stock. Bring to a boil and lower the heat. Simmer, covered, until the potatoes and carrots are completely tender and the potatoes are falling apart. Add the steamed cauliflower to the potato mixture. Turn off the heat and puree with an immersion blender (or in a standard blender) until smooth. Add the salt, Sriracha and nutritional yeast. Cook, stirring, until warmed through. Taste for salt and add tamari as needed.

SUSAN’S “TON OF BUTTER” SOPA VERDE DE ELOTE (Adapted from 101 Cookbooks by Heidi Swanson) Makes about 6 quarts 10 T. unsalted butter, divided 6 small to medium zucchini, seeded, then chopped into ¼-inch cubes 2 medium white onions, minced 10 cloves garlic, minced 10 c. corn kernels (frozen is fine) 4 qt. water (more or less) 3 c. green peas (fresh or frozen) 1 big bunch fresh cilantro, chopped, plus more for garnish 1 large Hatch green chile, charred, seeded and peeled 1 large romaine lettuce head, core removed and rough-chopped Juice of two limes 2 T. fine-grain sea salt, or to taste Roasted pepitas (I use store-bought), Greek yogurt, lime wedges and chopped cilantro, for garnish Heat 4 tablespoons of the butter in a large skillet. Add the zucchini and cook for a few minutes, until soft. Remove from the skillet and blend using a hand blender or standard blender until you achieve a texture you like. Heat the remaining 6 tablespoons of butter in a large soup pot and sauté the onion and garlic until soft. Add the pureed zucchini and cook over high heat for about 3 minutes—stirring constantly. In several batches, place some of the corn kernels, peas, cilantro, chile and lettuce in a blender (or use a hand blender and a big bowl), and add enough water to liquefy the vegetables. Blend until the mixture is as smooth as possible. (Don’t worry about precisely measuring the water—just add enough to make it smooth and soupy) Pour each batch into the soup pot. Cook over medium-high heat—stirring constantly. Add another 3 cups of water, or more, until the preferred consistency is reached. Add the lime juice and salt, to taste. Cook, stirring often, until the soup is hot all the way through. Serve with roasted pepitas, Greek yogurt, lime wedges and cilantro.

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“MY NAME IS ANNE MARIE AND I HOARD THE TECOLOTE CHILES” TORTILLA SOUP Makes about 3 quarts

MARCELA’S HUSBAND’S “SPECIAL FAVORS” SPICY CARROT COCONUT SOUP Makes about 6 quarts (but who knows…he doesn’t measure) ¼ c. coconut oil 1 red onion, chopped Salt, to taste 1 garlic bulb, cloves separated, peeled and chopped Cayenne pepper, to taste 3 lb. carrots, peeled and chopped 2 13½-oz. cans coconut milk 3 clementines, peeled and sectioned Juice of 2 lemons Something crunchy and salty, crushed, for garnish In a sizable soup-making vessel, heat the coconut oil over medium heat. Add the red onion with a big ol’ pinch of salt. Add more salt. Lower the heat. Stir until the onion is “getting there” [softening] and then add the garlic. Add cayenne pepper, to taste. (I kept adding sprinkles until, Yep, a little too much.) When the onion is golden, add the carrots, coconut milk and enough water to cover the vegetables. Add more salt and the juice of the clementines. Bring to a boil. Turn off. Leave on the stovetop. Have a day. After your sweet day, bring the soup back up to a boil. Let cool. Puree. Squeeze in 2 lemons-worth of lemon guts and maybe a little more clementine juice and maybe more salt. Crush something crunchy and salty on that bad boy and guzzle.

For the soup: 3 large dried pecan-smoked New Mexico chiles from Tecolote Farm (or dried pasilla (negro), ancho or New Mexico chiles) 1 15-oz. can fire-roasted tomatoes with juice 2 T. olive oil 1 white onion, sliced thinly 3–4 garlic cloves, chopped 4 c. vegetable broth 4 c. water 1 T. masa flour 3 large carrots, peeled and sliced ¼-inch thick 1 c. red and/or yellow bell peppers, sliced into bite-size pieces 1 t. cumin, or to taste 1 t. chili powder, or to taste ½ t. salt, or to taste 1½ c. fresh or frozen corn kernels 1 15-oz. can black beans, drained and rinsed 3 c. baby spinach or Swiss chard leaves, packed Cayenne pepper, to taste (optional) Fried tortilla strips, shredded cheddar cheese, avocado slices, fresh cilantro and lime wedges, for serving Using tongs, turn the chiles over an open flame until they soften and char a bit. Let them cool, then stem, seed and break them into pieces. Place the chiles and the tomatoes with juice into a blender and blend well. In a heavy soup pot, heat the olive oil on medium heat and sauté the onions and garlic—stirring constantly until golden, around 6 minutes. Turn off the heat, transfer the onions and garlic to the blender and blend with the tomatoes and chiles until smooth. Return the pot to medium heat, add the blender mixture and stir constantly until it thickens—about 6 minutes. (Caution: The mixture will splatter and potentially burn you if not stirred continuously.) Add the broth and water and bring to a simmer. Ladle out a cup of the broth into a bowl and whisk in the masa until all lumps dissolve. Pour the masa mixture back into the pot and stir until incorporated. Add the carrots, bell peppers, cumin, chili powder and salt and bring back to a boil. Simmer on low for 15 to 20 minutes, or until the carrots have reached your desired texture. Meanwhile, roast the corn kernels in a bit of olive oil in a cast-iron pan—stirring frequently until they begin to brown, about 10 minutes. When the carrots are cooked, add the corn, black beans and spinach. Cook for 5 more minutes—tasting for salt and adding cayenne pepper if you like it spicy. Serve hot with your choice of garnishes above. For the tortilla strips: 1 8-oz. package corn tortillas, cut into ¼-inch strips ¼ cup avocado, canola or other high-heat oil Salt and chili powder, to taste Pour about 1 inch of oil into a small frying pan set over medium-high heat. When the oil is hot but not smoking, add one-third of the tortilla strips and cook until crisp—about 2 or 3 minutes. With a slotted spoon or tongs, transfer the strips to paper towels to drain. While still warm, sprinkle the strips with salt and chili powder and toss. Repeat with remaining strips. EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

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KNOX GARDNER’S “EVERYONE WANTS IT” CREAM OF MUSHROOM SOUP (Adapted from Michael Congdon’s cookbook, “S.O.U.P.S.: Seattle’s Own Undeniably Perfect Soups”)

lick

Makes about 6 quarts

honest ice creams

2032 South Lamar Boulevard

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Bake the potatoes at 500º for 30 to 45 minutes. When a fork or knife can be inserted smoothly, they are done. Let them cool, then remove the skins. Meanwhile, melt the butter in a large stock pan and add the truffle oil. Add the onions, shallots and garlic, stirring occasionally until they begin to caramelize—this could take as long as 20 minutes. When the onions are soft, gooey and brown, add ½ cup of the sherry and stir, making sure to get all the tasty bits that may be stuck at the bottom of the pan. Now add the mushrooms and the rest of the sherry. Cover for 5 to 10 minutes to let the mushrooms reduce. Add 4 cups of the stock, along with the peppercorns, salt and bay leaves. Cook for 30 more minutes or until all the ingredients are soft. Using a blender or food processor, puree the mushroom and onion mix in batches by adding only a few ladles at a time, alternating between the hot mushroom mixture, pieces of potato and additional stock. Pour the resulting mix into a clean pot if possible. Once the mushrooms, potatoes and stock are blended together (and you may have two pots going now), add the cream along with the fresh thyme. Bring to a simmer and add salt and pepper, to taste. Ideally, you’d chill this soup for a day or two for the flavor to develop, but if you don’t have time, it will still taste delicious. As with all cream soups, it’s important to reheat slowly and gently. Serve with a drop or two of truffle oil.

Photography by Sandy Wilson

2 large baking potatoes (russets) 8 T. unsalted butter 2 T. truffle oil 2 large yellow onions, thinly sliced 3–4 shallots, minced 3–4 garlic cloves, minced 1½ c. cream sherry (divided) 3 lb. mushrooms, chopped 8 c. vegetable stock (divided) 1 T. black peppercorns 1 T. salt 8 bay leaves 4 c. heavy cream Several sprigs of fresh thyme, chopped

Austin


WHAT WE’RE DRINKING

WITH SOUP BY T E R RY T H O M PSO N -A N D E RSO N • P H OTO G RA P H Y BY SA N DY W I LSO N

P

airing wine with soup can be a daunting

hot chili sauce, which would tear up many wines.

task—it’s all about balancing the various

Instead, try a wine with a solidly sweet profile

textures and weights. Generally, soups

to tame down the fire, such as the Messina Hof 2006 Riesling NV.

are paired with white wines, but the addition of red meat proteins to a soup can change the pairing. Hearty chowders and other thick, rich soups

Marcela’s Husband’s Spicy Carrot Coco-

can handle more robust, full-bodied wines, while

nut Soup (page 63). Although this recipe calls

creamy soups generally demand a wine with a

for “cayenne pepper, to taste,” even a moderate

good dose of acidity. Here’s what we’re drinking

amount of the spicy ground chili will be offset

with this issue’s featured soups.

by the addition of the fatty coconut milk. Heat, then, shouldn’t be a big factor in choosing a

Jote’s Mom’s Fakie Chicken Noodle Soup

wine to pair with it. A Texas Hills Vineyard

(page 61). This is an interesting soup in that it

chardonnay, which is estate-grown, is a perfect

doesn’t really contain chicken, but rather textured

match to cut through the fattiness and enhance

vegetable protein and nutritional yeast flakes to

the citrus elements of the soup.

help create a chicken-like flavor and texture. But it’s also packed with vegetables and a nice touch

Anne Marie’s Tortilla Soup (page 63). For

of dill, and should pair well with a wine that’s

chile-based soups, stay away from wines with

known for its herbaceous qualities, such as the

heavy oak and tannins, which would taste like

Fall Creek Vineyards 2013 Sauvignon Blanc.

fingernails-on-a-blackboard sound. Instead, opt for a more balanced choice, such as a tempra-

Carly’s Smoky Butternut Squash Soup

nillo from Pontotoc Vineyard.

with Curry-Roasted Seeds (page 61). Because this is a complex soup with a lot of flavors, it

Knox Gardner’s Cream of Mushroom

needs a full-bodied wine, especially one with

Soup (page 64). This is definitely a rich and

good acidity to cut through the creamy texture.

creamy soup that calls for an equally rich and

The Pedernales Cellars 2011 or 2012 Viognier

hefty white, but not one that’s highly oaky. Again,

is a fine match, and will help bring out the curry spice in the seed

try a Texas Hills Vineyard chardonnay that has aged in stain-

garnish.

less steel. This wine will cut through the richness of the cream in the soup, and the soup will bring out the minerals in the wine.

Susan’s Sopa Verde de Elote (page 62). Since this soup has a blast of heat from the Hatch chile, it should be paired with a wine

Jennifer Chenoweth’s Pozole Blanco (page 27). Pozole is a

that has a slightly sweet profile. The William Chris Vineyards

complex, aromatic stew-soup with dominant flavors that are both

2014 “Mary Ruth” would be a good choice. The wine is 42 per-

spicy and tart. The Flat Creek Estate 2014 Texas Pinot Grigio

cent orange muscat, and it will help play up the citrus accent of

is a crisp, dry wine that was 100-percent fermented in stainless

fresh lime juice in the soup.

steel and blended with Texas blanc du bois and pinot blanc. The resulting wine is filled with traditional green apple characteris-

Amy’s Golden Creamy Cauliflower Soup (page 62). Nor-

tics and a hint of white peach and lime zest. The lime notes will

mally, a pinot grigio would be a good pairing for a creamy cauli-

pair with the lime in the pozole, and the blanc du bois will mod-

flower soup, but this one has a decent amount of spicy Sriracha

erate the chiles. EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

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DEPARTMENT OF ORGANIC YOUTH

YOUTH FOOD JAM 2015 BY J OS É M O R I N A N D I A N C RAW FO R D • P H OTO G RA P H Y BY M A X E L L I OT T

O

n December 5 this year, young leaders from Urban Roots will

make a difference. I realized that our differences in location meant

host Austin’s first-ever “Youth Food Jam” for Central Tex-

little, as we all had an indistinguishable passion for food justice.”

as. Sponsored by Kerbey Lane Café and held at Garza High

The participants returned to Austin excited to replicate the expe-

School, the event is sure to be an energetic community gathering and

rience.

an inspirational day. The core of activity focuses on workshops led

To prepare for the upcoming Youth Food Jam, Urban Roots youth

by youth and adults from a variety of food and leadership develop-

leaders—graduates of the organization’s six-month Farm Internship

ment organizations (including Urban Roots), and to round out the

Program and current participants in its Advanced Leadership Acad-

day, there’ll be a keynote address from internationally renowned

emy—spent the fall polishing their leadership skills on the Urban

author and University of Texas professor Raj Patel, and a perfor-

Roots farm, engaging with volunteers through farm work and giv-

mance by local hip-hop group Mindz of a Different Kind, which

ing back to the community through produce donations. In addition,

is co-led by Urban Roots graduate Breez Smith. Of course, there

they’ve been hard at work preparing a creative leadership workshop

will also be plenty of delicious local foods to enjoy throughout

to share at the Food Jam. To flesh out the event, they’ve invited other

the day.

youth groups (and a few adults) from across Central Texas to lead

The inspiration for the event came from the Rooted In Community (RIC) gathering held in Albuquerque, New Mexico, in 2014.

hands-on, interactive workshops on cooking, cultural and food history, public speaking, creative leadership and food justice.

Urban Roots members José Morin and Robbie Araiza, as well as

By planning and implementing a peer-led conference focused

two Urban Roots staff members, were invited to participate with

on youth empowerment, nutrition and food equity, the Urban

more than 120 other young attendees from several dozen youth-

Roots leaders hope to re-create the experience of the RIC gath-

farm programs across the country. Workshop topics ranged from

ering, and inspire others to get more involved in food and justice

the benefits of organic produce, to public speaking, to the culture

movements in their own communities.

of the land. “The experience is something I’ll never forget,” says

José Morin is a youth leader at Urban Roots. Ian Crawford is

Morin. “And the opportunity to encounter others passionately en-

the programs and operations director for Urban Roots. For more

gaged in the same work that inspires me solidified my dreams to

information, visit urbanrootsatx.org or call 512-750-8019.

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HEIRLOOM 2015

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n the middle of the afternoon, everyone gathers around a big sack of corn. From little children to grandparents, they separate the grains from the cobs. The women take the separated ker-

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nels, throw them into the air and catch them—allowing the wind to take away some of the loose hulls. Then, they rinse the kernels and cook them in limewater. This is the ritual of the nixtamalization process. From this corn, tortillas, gorditas, tlacoyos, huaraches, sopes, atole, corundas and tamales are made—food that’s the basis of the people’s livelihood and nourishment. Traditional diets and food preparations evolve through trial and error, and corn is a good example. It was a lucky accident when

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2nd Saturday Garden Party

passed to the next generations, soon became part of the heritage. Not long ago, I heard about heirloom seeds. The term was intriguing—a simple seed could carry heritage? I never thought about it this way, but it’s true. My grandfather used to grow beans, squash, watermelons, gourds, loofas and, of course, corn. Like every farmer before him, he was careful to save seeds from the plants he preferred. There at his farm, in the Mexican state of Nuevo León, the food was especially tasty—everything was freshly harvested and prepared. My memories of the flavors are still fresh: warm tortillas with beans, cabbage, fresh cheese and a little bit of chile piquin ground in a molcajete, and soft, thin-skinned avocados mixed with tomatoes, chilies, onion and cilantro. He grew the best avocados I have ever eaten, but they were impossible to transport to the market because, with their thin skins, they bruised easily and lost some of their delicate flavor. The point is that my grandfather learned through trial and error that saving certain seeds had real benefits because of the close correla-

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tion between flavor and nutrition. His careful and diligent practices became part of my family’s heritage and now my livelihood. I coordinate Sustainable Food Center’s The Happy Kitchen/La Cocina Alegre® cooking and nutrition classes taught in Spanish. Spotlighting culturally appropriate foods, age-old preparations and heirloom recipes are important parts of our classes. We believe that

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HEIRLOOM 2015

EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

preserving and sharing our traditional foods, methods and practices will help keep our heritage alive. For more information, visit sustainablefoodcenter.org or call 512-236-0074.


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HEIRLOOM 2015

77


A WALL-FLOWER NO MORE BY KATE PAYNE • PHOTOGRAPHY BY JO ANN SANTANGELO

Cauliflower is a champion of agricultural progress—appearing in Europe after broccoli, sometime around the 16th century. The cauliflower florets found on dinner plates and in pickle jars are really a cluster of premature flower-stalk branches. Part of the cabbage family, cauliflower is rich in cell-wall pectins and hemicelluloses, which makes it an ideal candidate for adding bulk to recipes. (This same cellular structure is also why cauliflower can be coaxed into a smooth, creamy puree.) Cooking it allows its cell walls to release some of the water within. The recipe below for cauliflower “flour” calls for pressing this water out of the cells to produce a pile of cauliflower “meal”—similar in consistency to that of masa used for making tortillas. There are a lot of options for adapting this recipe to meet your needs, but it’s important to choose ingredients that will help accomplish the desired texture and results. The other players in this grain-free pizza crust include cheese, egg and arrowroot starch. Cheese plays a role in creating a casein “fabric” that tightens up when the fat is baked out of it. We also have cheese to thank for the slight crispness of the crust. Egg acts as the binder, with the magic and science of custards behind it. If omitting egg is necessary, try adding 3 tablespoons of warm water to 1 tablespoon of freshly ground flaxseed meal mixed with a pinch of baking powder. Starch absorbs water and sets the structure during baking. I chose arrowroot starch because it produces a less-chewy final texture, but tapioca or even cornstarch will work well, too. In my crust experiments without starch, I found the outcome to be more like a quiche than a crust, but I encourage small-batch experimentation to find a texture that works well for the purposes of the recipe at hand. From a practical perspective, I prefer to view this as a two-step process, since rarely during the throes of mealtime preparation do I want to do an hour of cauliflower prep, too. The first time I made this, I underestimated how long it would take to get a meal from

I

f you pay close attention to the world of food and those blog-

a head of cauliflower and ended up eating dinner close to 10 p.m.

ging about it, you’ve probably noticed how dramatically cauli-

Preparing the cauliflower in advance and freezing it in 1-cup por-

flower has exploded in the grain-free community. Turns out this

tions is the way to go, and having premade cauliflower flour on

humble vegetable—the new kale of the special-diet scene—makes

hand makes this a quick and easy dinner to throw together whether

an impressive alternative for the nut and other high-protein flours

pizzas, pita wraps or just open-faced flatbread creations are on the

used to bulk up grain-free recipes.

menu (or ingredients beckoning from the crisper drawer).

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eat well. CAULIFLOWER “FLOUR” 11th & lamar

Yield varies

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1 head of cauliflower, cut off the base and then cut into small florets Heat the oven to 400°. Use a food processor to puree the cauliflower in batches. Pack the cauliflower puree into a glass baking dish and spread to distribute evenly. Bake for 15 minutes. Allow the puree to cool enough to work with it by hand—stirring with a spoon to facilitate faster cooling. Scrape the puree onto a flour sack towel or a fine-weave cheesecloth and wrap tightly. Squeeze the liquid out of the cauliflower over a measuring cup. (A 2¾-pound head of cauliflower yielded approximately 4 cups of packed, riced cauliflower, approximately 2¾ cups pressed “flour” and 1½ cups of water squeezed from the puree.)

CAULIFLOWER PIZZA CRUST Yields one 10” round crust 1 c. prepared cauliflower, packed ½ c. arrowroot starch ½ c. shredded mozzarella ½ c. grated Parmesan 1 medium clove garlic, minced 1 egg ¼ t. salt Fresh cracked pepper

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Heat the oven to 450°. Combine the cauliflower, starch, cheeses and garlic and mix well to incorporate completely. Whisk the egg in a separate bowl then add it to the cauliflower mixture. Sprinkle salt and pepper evenly over the mixture and mix again. Carefully spread the mixture onto a baking sheet lined with parchment paper—using your hands to press it together and form a uniformly ¼-inch-thick rectangle or circle. Slide the parchment paper onto a hot pizza stone or proceed to bake on the baking sheet. Bake for 14 to 18 minutes, then use a spatula to flip the crust. Allow it to bake for an additional 5 to 8 minutes. After the crust is baked, add sauce or pesto, toppings and cheese, as desired, and bake until melted and warmed to preference. EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

HEIRLOOM 2015

79


LA CASITA DE BUEN SABOR

PICADILLO: PARTY IN A PAN BY LUCINDA HUTSON

M

y late sister Criztina Peabody was a wonderful cook, and everyone cherished an invitation to her table. She had an imaginative knack for mingling sweet, savory

and spicy flavors with harmony and surprise. Her picadillo stands out as one such recipe—ground meat simmered in a piquant tomato sauce heady with fragrant spices, sweet raisins, salty olives and crunchy, toasted nuts. The word picadillo comes from the Spanish word picar—to finely chop—which you will do to many of the ingredients in this recipe. It’s a quick one-pot meal—filling the kitchen with such intriguing aromas that it’s hard to wait for the first spoonful. Since Latin countries around the world claim the origin of this hearty comfort food, various versions and serving suggestions abound. In El Paso, where my siblings and I were raised, picadillo was a featured dish at fall gatherings. Some served it in Mexican clay cazuelas (casserole dishes) or chafing dishes as a warm, hearty dip for tostada chips. Others presented platters of empanadas (pretty, crescent-shaped pastry turnovers with crimped edges that seal in the savory meat filling). We’d mound picadillo atop chalupas (whole, fried corn tortillas) on a bed of shredded lettuce, or use it as a filling for crispy tacos. And left-

Once she even hollowed out a big pumpkin and used it as a “pot”

over picadillo rolled in a flour tortilla was a favorite burrito. But

for picadillo.

we especially loved tortas—our Mexican version of Sloppy Joes.

For party fare, picadillo provides filling protein as opposed

We’d slice crusty Mexican bolillo rolls in half, hollow out some

to the carb-laden standards too often served. From a cast-iron

of the white bread and fill it with picadillo, then warm it in the

pan or a slow cooker, it’s surely a crowd pleaser! Accompany it

oven and eat it with avocado slices…yum!

with small bowls of condiments, such as toasted nuts and pepitas

Criztina took our family’s traditional recipe for picadillo to

(pumpkin seeds), sliced Spanish olives, capers, chopped cilantro,

Pátzcuaro, Michocán, where she lived her last years as an ex-

green onions, jalapeños and avocado slices. It’s flavorful enough

pat artist, but she embellished the recipe with her own exem-

without cheese, but a light touch of crumbled cotija or queso fres-

plary touches. For instance, she’d roast and peel whole poblano

co adds color and flavor.

peppers (slitting them lengthwise and removing the seeds but

Though my sister now delights dinner guests in the great be-

leaving the stem intact), then stuff them with picadillo and add

yond, she profoundly inspired my own style of cooking. I offer

festive garnishes. Sometimes she did the same with dried red

you her recipe for picadillo—recreating this heirloom recipe by

ancho chilies—marinating them first to soften before stuffing.

memory and heart.

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PICADILLO DE PÁTZCUARO A LA CRIZTINA Easily serves 12 or more Use this master recipe—making changes as needed for the other recipes listed. When serving, offer additional condiments mentioned in the story. 3 T. olive oil 1 large white onion, chopped 3–4 oz. uncooked spicy sausage, crumbled, or dry sausage, chopped 4 fresh bay leaves 6 garlic cloves, minced 2 lb. ground beef Salt and pepper, to taste 2 t. whole comino seeds 1 t. whole allspice berries 4 whole cloves 1 14½-oz. can high-quality chopped tomatoes 2 t. dried Mexican oregano 2 t. dried marjoram 2 T. crushed chile powder (I use crushed New Mexico red chiles) 2 t. high-quality cinnamon powder 2–3 T. tomato paste 2 T. red wine vinegar, or more to taste 1 T. grated Mexican dark chocolate, optional (I use Taza stoneground guajillo chili dark chocolate Mexicano) 2 /³ c. raisins 2 /³ c. Spanish olives (pimento-stuffed green olives), sliced 2 /³ c. slivered almonds, toasted Heat the oil in a large, heavy pan over medium-high heat. Add the onion, sausage and bay leaves and cook about 3 minutes. Add the garlic and cook about 3 more minutes, until the onion is soft. Add the ground beef and season with salt and pepper—crumbling the meat with a fork until evenly browned (about 7 minutes). Grind the whole spices in a spice grinder and add along with the tomatoes, dried herbs, crushed chile powder and cinnamon. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat. Add the tomato paste, red wine vinegar and chocolate, if using. Simmer, partially covered, about 15 minutes. Adjust flavors to taste, then add the raisins and olives and cook, uncovered, another 5 minutes or so (it should be thick but not soupy). Remove the bay leaves and sprinkle with nuts before serving. The picadillo will thicken (and get more flavorful!) if rested overnight. Thin with red wine, broth or water the next day, and adjust flavors to taste.

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In fact, this is the perfect dish to adjust to your own tastes! Consider adding olive brine for salt and more red wine vinegar or brown sugar. Try various kinds of dried red chiles, or add chopped jalapeños or serranos when cooking the onions. And consider soaking the dried fruits in 3 tablespoons of mezcal or tequila for 15 minutes before adding. For the meat, ground chuck or sirloin works well, or consider lean ground meats such as bison, venison, lamb or turkey (though they may require more oil or the addition of ground sausage or chorizo for more fat). Fried bacon is a good option—crumble and reserve bits for garnish, and use the fat for frying leaner meats. Or simply add diced bacon while browning the meat. Shredded meat, such as pork, beef or venison that’s been roasted, grilled or boiled, is also a good option.

Find these variations of this beloved and versatile dish, Nuevo Mundo Picadillo, Picadillo Cubano and Picadillo al Greco, at edibleaustin.com

501 Bastrop Hwy, Austin • 512-385-3452

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HEIRLOOM 2015

81


CAPITAL AREA FOOD BANK

OUT OF THE COLD BY SUSA N L E I B RO C K

C

old wind sweeps strawberry blonde curls over Marjorie

Local • Fresh • Innovative • Flavorful Tree Covered Patio

Peterson’s eyes as she whispers her name to the young volunteer ushering people inside. Teeth chattering, Peterson

answers the volunteer’s questions—from home address and number of family members in her household to what has triggered her need for emergency food assistance from the pantry today. A moth-

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er of two and a grandmother of three, Peterson’s reason for stand-

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ing in line causes the volunteer to shake her head before writing:

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“My son was killed and I take care of his three children now. I’m a wife in retirement. A widow.” Born in Comanche County to a fourth-generation farming family, Peterson’s life has spanned over a half-century marked by hills and valleys—echoing the Central Texas landscape around her. As a child, she made fairy dwellings among the melon rows as her father

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shooed away the fertilizer salesmen and commercial seed peddlers who began their rounds following World War II. Her father maintained a closed-loop food system and wasted nothing on the farm. Peterson saw the savings gained by this investment of time in the land—turning otherwise cast-off materials into soil and ripened vegetables into seeds that would renew the cycle each season. When the siren song of life beyond her family’s farm called to Peterson, she answered an ad for secretarial work at an agricultural machinery firm 30 miles south in Goldthwaite. Late fall in Goldthwaite can bring unpredictable cold fronts, and as Peterson continues to tell her story to the volunteer, her eldest grandson, who is 6, tugs at his “Mema’s” wool cardigan and asks if she thinks frosty gusts gave the town its nickname of “Windmill City.” Peterson looks down at his face and says how much he looks like his father did at this age. Peterson’s son was a gentle bear of a man and his career as a hunting guide ended suddenly the previous year when a bullet fired by another hunter ricocheted, leaving his children orphaned and in Peterson’s care. Each month brings tough decisions between buying medication for her type 2 diabetes and purchasing food for herself and her grandchildren. Without distributions from the Capital Area Food Bank (CAFB) to Partner Agencies such as Goldthwaite Evangelism Center’s pantry, families like Peterson’s can, and do, go hungry. More than 90 percent of CAFB’s clients are not homeless, yet may simply be one life event away from temporarily needing emergency food assistance. Since 1981, CAFB has provided food and grocery products to a network of 300 Partner Agencies and nutrition programs, serving nearly 46,000 people every week. In order to continue to meet the growing need for hunger relief across the 21-county service area in Central Texas, a new warehouse is sorely needed. To contribute funds, and to learn about more ways to get involved, visit austinfoodbank.org/campaign or call 512-282-2111.

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Get to know the farmers in the Finger Lakes, the artisans of Michiana, the vintners in Vancouver and more as we serve up the best local food stories from the fields and kitchens of edible communities. edible BLUE RIDGE

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THE DIRECTORY ARTISANAL FOODS Antonelli’s Cheese Shop We love cut-to-order artisanal cheese and all that goes with it. Order a picnic platter, take a class or host a private guided event. Free tastings daily. 512-531-9610 4220 Duval St. antonellischeese.com

Broken Arrow Ranch We field harvest truly wild animals for high-quality free-range venison, antelope and wild boar meat. Diamond H Ranch Quail from Bandera also available. 800-962-4263 3296 Junction Hwy., Ingram brokenarrowranch.com

The California Wine Club The California Wine Club is a monthly wine club for every level connoisseur that’s been discovering California’s best artisan wineries since 1990. 877-234-5598 2781 Golf Course Drive Unit B Ventura, CA 93003 cawineclub.com

Edis Chocolates Handmade chocolate truffles and fine desserts, free of preservatives and additives. Our desserts are made with fair trade chocolate. Excellent gluten-free options. 512-795-9285 3808 Spicewood Springs Rd., Ste 102 edischocolates.com

Lick Honest Ice Creams Artisan ice creams celebrating the finest ingredients Texas has to offer! Handmade in small batches in our Austin kitchen. Natural, local and seasonal. 512-363-5622 203 S. Lamar Blvd. 512-609-8029 6555 Burnet Rd. ilikelick.com

Pasta & Co.

Lewis Wines

Twin Liquors

Austin’s only fresh pasta manufacturer serving the greater Austin area’s retail and wholesale pasta needs since 1983. 512-453-0633 3502 Kerbey Lane www.austinpasta.com

Boutique producer of 100% Texas wines in Johnson City, Texas. 512-987-0660 3209 Highway 290 W., Johnson City lewiswines.com

Family owned and Authentically Austin™ since 1937 - Twin Liquors helps customers match wine and spirits to every occasion. 75 Central Texas locations. 1-855-350-TWIN (8946) 512-451-7400 1000 E. 41st St. #810 512-402-0060 12528 Texas 71, Bee Cave 512-872-4220 210 University Blvd, Ste. 120, Round Rock twinliquors.com

Paula’s Texas Spirits Sweet Ritual Artisanal microcreamery featuring 17 flavors of alternative ice cream - made with cashew, almond and coconut bases. Gluten-free options. Dairy and egg free. 512-666-8346 4500 Duval St. sweetritual.com

Texas Olive Ranch Fresh Texas-grown extra virgin olive oil from Carrizo Springs, infused olive oil and balsamic vinegar at farmers markets in Austin, SA, NB, Houston, Dallas. 877-461-4708 texasoliveranch.com

Real Ale Brewing Co. Handcrafted beer that is unfiltered, unpasteurized, and only in Texas. Visit us in Blanco for pints, flights, and free tours 11am - 5pm, Thu - Sat. 830-833-2534 realalebrewing.com

Spec’s Wine Spirits and Finer Foods

Tiny Pies are just like grandma made only smaller. Both savory & sweet. We cater, offer corporate gifting ideas, deliver locally & ship nationally. 512-916-0184 5035 Burnet Rd. tinypies.com

Family-owned since 1962, Spec’s offers expert service and Texas’ largest selection of wines, spirits and beers along with gourmet foods and more! 512-366-8260 4978 W. US Hwy. 290 512-342-6893 10515 N. MoPac Hwy. 512-280-7400 9900 S. I-35 512-263-9981 13015 Shops Pkwy. 512-366-8300 5775 Airport Blvd. specsonline.com

BEVERAGES

Texas Hills Vineyard

BAKERIES Tiny Pies

BOOKSELLERS BookPeople Texas’ leading independent bookstore since 1970. Located in the heart of downtown, BookPeople has been voted best bookstore in Austin for over 15 years! 512-472-5050; 603 N. Lamar Blvd. bookpeople.com

University of Texas Press Our mission is to advance and disseminate knowledge through the publication of books and journals and through electronic media. 512-252-3206 utexaspress.com

CATERING AND MEAL DELIVERY Coté Catering

Becker Vineyards Winery, vineyards, and tasting room with wines for tasting and for sale. Lavender fields, lavender products and annual Lavender Fest. 830-644-2681 464 Becker Farms Rd., Stonewall beckervineyards.com

Brooklyn Brewery Leading the world in beers made in Brooklyn. 718-486-7422 brooklynbrewery.com

Lone Star Foodservice Lone Star Foodservice is a famly-owned wholesale meat company, whose mission is to source and deliver the finest cuts of natural beef, pork and lamb to tables across Texas. 512-646-6218 1403 E. 6th St. lonestarfood.com

Paula’s Texas Orange Liqueur & Paula’s Texas Lemon Liqueur—all natural and handmade in Austin since 2006. Available throughout Texas. paulastexasspirits.com

Compass Rose Cellars Experience chef-inspired dining at our intimate winery with breathtaking Hill Country views at Compass Rose Cellars in Hye, TX. Worth the journey. 830-868-7799 1197 Hye-Albert Rd., Hye compassrosecellars.com

Winemaking, wine sales, tasting room, patio for picnics, gifts, award-winning wines, fun-loving staff and a beautiful place to visit. 930-868-2321 878 RR 2766, Johnson City texashillsvineyard.com

Coté Catering is a boutique farm-totable catering company dedicated to creating exciting, fresh cuisine for weddings, parties, and events of all kinds. Our seasonal, sustainable menus will entertain and delight your guests. 512-638-2144 cotecatering.com

Texas Keeper Ciders

Pink Avocado Catering

Small-batch cider made in south Austin from 100% apples. Available in stores, bars, and restaurants throughout Austin, Houston, and DFW areas. 512-910-3409 12521 Twin Creeks Rd. texaskeeper.com

A custom catering company specializing in tailored menus, incredible food and surprisingly personal service. 512-656-4348 401 Sabine St. Ste. B pinkavocadocatering.com

Total Wine

Spoon & Co. Catering

With a Texas-sized selection, Total Wine & More has a wine to pair with whatever Austin is planning for dinner. 512-892-8763 5601 Brodie Ln., Sunset Valley totalwine.com

It’s our business to delight you with the details, memorable events with mindfully chosen, prepared and presented food and a caring crew! 512-912-6784 spoonadco.com

EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

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DESIGN AND CONSTRUCTION Texas Oven Co. Experts in designing and building wood-burning ovens. Our handcrafted ovens are fire-breathing works of art. We are also a Forno Bravo pizza oven dealer. 512-222-6836 texasovenco.com

Royalty Pecan Farms A family owned & operated pecan farm featuring a gift shop, event venue and tourist attraction. Great source for fresh Texas pecans, pies, breads and gifts. 979-272-3904 10600 State Hwy 21 E, Caldwell royaltypecans.com

FINANCIAL Capital Farm Credit

EDUCATION The Natural Epicurean At The Natural Epicurean, we train professional chefs, health coaches, and consumers in plant-based health-supportive culinary techniques. 512-476-2276 1700 S. Lamar Blvd. naturalepicurean.com

EVENTS Recycling The Past Architecture, design and nature all collide at our 12,000 sq. foot sales and event venue in Round Top, TX. Procurers of architectural salvage and oddities. 609-618-7606 1132 N. FM 1291, Round Top recyclingthepast.com

FARMERS MARKETS

Capital Farm Credit is your financial lending partner, providing loans for recreational land, home loans and small and large acreage tracts. 512-892-4425 5900 Southwest Pkwy., Ste. 501 512-715-9239 301 W. Polk St., Burnet 979-968-5750 456 N. Jefferson St., La Grange 512-398-3524 1418 S. Colorado St., Lockhart 830-626-6886 426 S. Seguin Ave., New Braunfels capitalfarmcredit.com

GROCERS Royal Blue Grocery Downtown Austin’s neighborhood grocer—with dairy, prepared foods, beer and wine, Royal Blue has it all, in a convenient and compact format. Catering too! 512-499-3993; 247 W. 3rd St. 512-476-5700; 360 Nueces St. 512-469-5888; 609 Congress Ave. 512-386-1617; 301 Brazos St., Ste. 101 512-480-0036; 51 Rainey St. royalbluegrocery.com

Lone Star Farmers Market Providing fresh fruits, vegetables and quality products. Located at The Shops at the Galleria every Sunday from 10 am–2 pm in the Lowe’s parking lot. 512-924-7503 12611 Shops Pkwy., Ste. 100 Bee Cave lonestarfarmersmarket.com

FARMS Burg’s Corner Fredericksburg peaches. Local fruit and vegetable stand. Peach ice cream. Peach Cider. Over 100 Texas gourmet jarred products. Sweet snacks and gifts. 830-644-2604 15194 E. US Hwy 290, Stonewall burgscorner.com

Wheatsville Food Co-op Serving up local, organic, sustainable and humanely raised food since 1976. Full service deli, hot bar, salad bar, espresso bar and eating area with wi-fi. 512-478-2667; 3101 Guadalupe St. 512-814-2888; 4001 S. Lamar Blvd. wheatsville.coop

Whole Foods Market Selling the highest quality natural and organic products. 512-542-2200 525 N. Lamar Blvd. 512-345-5003 9607 Research Blvd. 512-206-2730 12601 Hill Country Blvd., Bee Cave 512-358-2460 4301 W. William Cannon wholefoodsmarket.com

HEALTH AND BEAUTY Hill Country Memorial Hospital Hill Country Memorial is a nationally recognized nonprofit hospital in Fredericksburg with a reputation of delivering remarkable care. 830-997-4353 1020 S. State Hwy. 16, Fredericksburg 830-428-2345 1580 S. Main St., Ste. 101, Boerne 844-362-7426 1331 Bandera Hwy., Ste. 3, Kerrville 830-693-7942 2511 US Highway 281, Ste. 800, Marble Falls 830-798-1821 204 Gateway N., Ste. B, Marble Falls hillcountrymemorial.org

Peoples Rx Austin’s favorite pharmacy for more than 30 years, Peoples integrates nutrition, supplements and medicine with natural remedies and custom Rx compounding. 512-219-9499 13860 Hwy. 183 N., Ste. C 512-459-9090 4018 N. Lamar Blvd. 512-444-8866 3801 S. Lamar Blvd. 512-327-8877 4201 Westbank Dr. peoplesrx.com

Wiseman Family Practice Wiseman Family Practice is an integrative medical practice in Austin, Tx that focuses on health education and natural approaches to wellness. 512-345-8970 2500 S. Lakeline Blvd. Ste. 100, Cedar Park 3345 Bee Caves Rd., Ste. 101 3801 S. Lamar Blvd. wisemanfamilypractice.com

HOUSEWARES AND GIFTS

The Herb Bar Best place to cure what ails you and a healing resource center since 1986. Our Optimal Health Advisers are highly trained, knowledgeable and compassionate. 512-444-6251 200 W. Mary St. theherbbar.com

LANDSCAPE AND GARDENING Barton Springs Nursery Locally grown Texas native plants. Organic pest management. Environmentally friendly soil amendments. Beautiful gifts. 512-328-6655 3601 Bee Caves Rd. bartonspringsnursery.net

Backbone Valley Nursery A destination garden center with over 14 acres of plants, vegetables, orchids, trees, and landscape supplies. Once you find us you won’t forget us! 830-693-9348 4201 FM 1980, Marble Falls backbonevalleynursery.com

It’s About Thyme Garden Center Top quality culinary herbs for chefs, and native plants for gardeners. A nursery with expert staff and pocket-friendly prices. Free lectures most Sundays. 512-280-1192 11726 Manchaca Rd. itsaboutthyme.com

Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center The Wildflower Center is a native plant botanic garden, a university research center and one of the 1,000 places to see before you die. 512-232-0100 4801 La Crosse Ave. wildflower.org

Callahan’s General Store Austin’s real general store…hardware to western wear, from feed to seed! 512-385-3452 501 Bastrop Hwy. callahansgeneralstore.com

The Great Outdoors Nursery A garden store and so much more! 512-448-2992 2730 S. Congress Ave. gonursery.com

Der Küchen Laden

Natural Gardener

Retail gourmet kitchen shop, featuring cookware, cutlery, bakeware, small electrics, textiles and kitchen gadgets. 830-997-4937 258 E. Main St., Fredericksburg littlechef.com

We are a garden center and teaching facility dedicated to promoting organic time-tested gardening practices. 512-288-6113 8648 Old Bee Caves Rd. naturalgardeneraustin.com

EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM HEIRLOOM HEIRLOOM 2015 8787 EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM 2015


LODGING AND TOURISM

Onion Creek Kitchens at Juniper Hills Farm

Bastrop Culinary District With over 18 restaurants and 11 food related businesses, historic downtown Bastrop has something for every palate. Come visit and experience the food! 512-303-0904 visitbastrop.com

Cooking classes, beautiful dining room venue for private events, hill country cabin rental. 830-833-0910 5818 RR 165, Dripping Springs juniperhillsfarm.com

NON-PROFIT Austin Water

Blanco Chamber of Commerce & Tourism Bureau Discover the fun and beauty of the Texas Hill Country in Blanco. We are your source of where to eat, shop, stay and play in Blanco. 830-833-5101 312 Pecan St., Blanco blancochamber.com

For over 100 years, Austin Water has provided safe, reliable drinking water service to Austin. We work everyday to protect this resource for the future. 512-974-2199 625 E. 10th St. waterwiseaustin.org

PHOTOGRAPHY AND ART

Brenham/Washington County CVB

Blanton Museum of Art

Visit Brenham and Washington County, home of the birthplace of Texas, Washington-on-the-Brazos State historic site. scenic drives, wineries and great lodging. 979-836-3696 115 W. Main St., Brenham visitbrenhamtexas.com

The Blanton Museum of Art, one of the foremost university art museums in the country, offers all visitors engaging experiences that connect art and ideas. 512-471-7324 200 E. Martin Luther King Jr. Blvd. blantonmuseum.org

Bullock Texas State History Museum

PROFESSIONAL SERVICES

The Bullock Texas State History Museum includes three floors of exhibitions, an IMAX® theater, a 4D special-effects theater, café, and museum store. 512-936-8746 1801 N. Congress Ave. thestoryoftexas.com

Fredericksburg Conference and Visitors Bureau Visit Fredericksburg, a small gem nestled in the Texas Hill Country. Enjoy eclectic shops, diverse lodging, amazing restaurants and Texas wines. 866-997-3600 visitfredericksburgtx.com

East Side Pies

Locally-sourced lunch and dinner. Craft brewery, live music, good people, dog friendly, creative community. #beermakesitbetter #ouratx 512-298-2242 1305 W. Oltorf St. theabgb.com

512-524-0933 1401B Rosewood Ave. 512-454-7437 5312 G Airport Blvd. 512-467-8900 1809-1 W. Anderson Ln. eastsidepies.com

Barlata Tapas Bar

Finn & Porter

Located in the heart of South Lamar. Barlata offers a variety of tapas, paellas, regional Spanish wines and cavas. Come and enjoy a bit of Spain with us. 512 473-2211 1500 S. Lamar Blvd., Ste. 150 barlataaustin.com

Casual fine dining restaurant and catering. We welcome private parties. Catering for all of your needs. 512-321-3577 919 Main St., Bastrop baxtersonmain.com

Make your next event memorable with Priscilla Badhwar and her sultry French jazz! Available to book for house parties or any special event. priscillabadhwar.com

416 Bar & Grille Americana Cuisine - Full service restaurant serving dinner until midnight seven days a week. Saturday and Sunday brunch starting at 10 a.m. 416 craft cocktails. 512-206-0540 5011 Burnet Rd. #150 416barandgrille.com

EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

Hut’s Hamburgers An Austin Tradition since 1939 featuring Grassfed Longhorn Beef and bison burgers. 512-472-0693 807 W. 6th St. hutsfrankandangies.com

Blue Corn Harvest Bar & Grill Blue Corn Harvest Bar & Grill is a farm-to-table restaurant located in Cedar Park. Locally owned and operated, we keep Cedar Park fresh! 512-528-0889 700 E. Whitestone Blvd., Ste 204 Cedar Park bluecornharvest.com

Cafe Josie Established in 1997, Cafe Josie strives to provide our guests with a memorable dining experience focusing on using locally sourced ingredients. 512-322-9226 1200 B W. 6th St. cafejosie.com

Chez Nous Priscilla Badhwar

Finn & Porter is fresh and modern. Locally sourced and exquisitely presented. The freshest seafood, steaks, sushi and produce the state of Texas has to offer. 512-493-4900 500 E. 4th St. finnandporteraustin.com

Baxters On Main

A casual french bistro, serving Austin since 1982, Chez Nous offers a delectable selection of regional french cuisine and wines in a relaxed, convivial and intimate atmosphere. 512-473-2413 510 Neches St. cheznousaustin.com

District Kitchen + Cocktails

Los Poblanos is set amongst 25 acres of lavender fields, an organic farm, and lush gardens, with 20 guest rooms and award-winning field-to-fork dining. 505-344-9297 4803 Rio Grande Blvd. NW, Los Ranchos de Albuquerque, NM lospoblanos.com HEIRLOOM 2015

Custom Labels up to 10 x 20 on paper, foil, synthetics, multiple adhesives, embossing, hot foil and UV coatings. Proud members of Go Texan, FTA and TWGGA. 512-302-0204 1610 Dungan Ln. austinlabel.com

RESTAURANTS

Los Poblanos Historic Inn & Organic Farm

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Austin Label Company

Austin Beer Garden Brewing Co.

District proudly partners with local farms and businesses to create an eclectic seasonal brunch and dinner menu. The industrial-style decor or the huge tree covered patio makes for a great dining atmosphere. 512-351-8436 5900 W. Slaughter Ln., Ste D500 districtaustin.com

Jack Allen’s Kitchen Texan in spirit and local in source, Jack Allen’s Kitchen serves up Texas-inspired cuisine, fresh cocktails, cold beers and good times daily. 512-852-8558 7720 W. Hwy. 71 512-215-0372 2500 Hoppe Tr., Round Rock jackallenskitchen.com

Jobell Cafe & Bistro We offer a carefully selected and prepared take on French bistro fare with wonderful wines all served amidst the intimacy and charm of Texas Hill Country. 512-847-5700 16920 Ranch Road 12 Wimberley jobellcafe.com

Kerbey Lane Cafe Kerbey Lane Cafe is a local Austin haunt serving up tasty, healthy food (mostly) 24/7. Stop by any of our 6 locations for a delicious stack of pancakes! 512-451-1436 kerbeylanecafe.com

The Leaning Pear Café & Eatery Serving the Texas Hill Country fresh and seasonal favorites using local ingredients. 512-847-7327 111 River Rd., Wimberley leaningpear.com


Lenoir

Slate Restaurant

The Turtle Restaurant

Lenoir is an intimate, family-run restaurant offering a weekly, local prix-fixe menu, great wine and friendly service. 512-215-9778 1807 S. 1st St. lenoirrestaurant.com

Mediterranean inspired cuisine serving lunch and dinner and brunch on the weekends. 512-474-2194 612 W. 6th St. slateaustin.com

Your destination for food prepared from locally available, seasonal ingredients. 325-646-8200 514 Center Ave., Brownwood theturtlerestaurant.com

For more information on being included in our directory call Dawn Weston at 512-827-3608

Wink Restaurant & Wine Bar Stella San Jac

Liberty Kitchen Liberty Kitchen offers regional seafood and American comfort foods. They serve lunch, dinner and brunch all weekend. Open 7 Days. Free garage parking. 512-840-1330 507 Pressler libertykitchenatx.com

Stella San Jac is a Southern-style restaurant offering an eclectic Austin-American menu featuring locally inspired dishes and cocktails. 512-792-5648 310 E. 5th St. stellasanjac.com

The daily menu is based on local artisans. Wink happily embraces omnivores, vegetarians, vegans, pescetarians and special dietary issues. 512-482-8868 1014 N. Lamar Blvd. winkrestaurant.com

SPECIALTY MARKET

Snack Bar

Thai Fresh

Make It Sweet

A nostalgic Austin café + lounge, cultivating community and camaraderie by providing a truly hospitable environment and serving accessible, ethical foods. 512-445-2626 1224 S. Congress Ave. snackbaraustin.com

Thai Fresh offers authentic Thai food, cooking classes, coffee bar, gluten free bakery. We source locally grown and raised ingredients. 512-494-6436 909 W. Mary St. thaifreshaustin.com

At Make It Sweet, you can find tools, supplies and ingredients to make cakes, cookies and candies and learn fun, new techniques in the classes offered. 512-371-3401 9070 Research Blvd. makeitsweet.com

“...a fine embodiment of innovative agricultural and architectural preservation.” ~ edible Austin

lospoblanos.com

Farm Shop • Dining • Lavender Fields • Historic Inn • Organic Farm • Weddings EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

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Angelbert Metoyer, Untitled (Indigo Series A–Z) (detail), 1997–present. Found sculptures, indigo pigment, silver nitrate, table, chair, gold dust, and rug. Dimensions variable. Installation view, Strange Pilgrims, The Contemporary Austin – Jones Center, 2015. Artwork © Angelbert Metoyer. Courtesy the artist. Image © The Contemporary Austin. Courtesy The Contemporary Austin. Photograph by Brian Fitzsimmons.

ART DE TERROIR

Strange Pilgrims September 27, 2015 – January 24, 2016 Works by fourteen internationally recognized artists across three sites. On view at the Jones Center, the Betty and Edward Marcus Sculpture Park at Laguna Gloria and the Visual Arts Center at The University of Texas at Austin.

Jones Center 700 Congress Avenue Austin, TX 78701 512 453 5312

Betty and Edward Marcus Sculpture Park / Laguna Gloria 3809 West 35th Street Austin, TX 78703 • 512 458 8191

thecontemporaryaustin.org

Visual Arts Center / The University of Texas 2301 San Jacinto Blvd. Austin, Texas 78712


Save time for things that matter . Order y�ur hOliday meal in StOre Or Online at wfm.cOm/ShOp. We also offer full-service catering for events of any size!

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domain: Just off mopac, north of Braker | north: highway 183 & 360 | downtown: 6th & Lamar south: william Cannon & mopac | west: hill Country Galleria @wholefoodsatX Š 2015 Whole Foods Market IP, L.P.

Heirloom 2015  

We are hopefully just the first step toward forging long and fruitful relationships between our readers and the subjects we write about. The...

Heirloom 2015  

We are hopefully just the first step toward forging long and fruitful relationships between our readers and the subjects we write about. The...

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