Edible Austin Heirloom Issue 2014

No. 37 Nov/Dec | Heirloom 2014

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HEIRLOOM Issue

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CONTENTS heirloom issue 8

NOTABLE mentions

12

NOTABLE edibles

Lammes Candies, Austin Fermentation Festival, Dai Due, UT Micro Farm.

18

edible CONVERSATION

Dan Barber.

22

COOKS at home

John and Kendall Antonelli.

24

farmers DIARY

44 Farms.

Click here for our

31

edible ENDEAVOR

CELEBRATIONS

Assured Sharp.

32

edible GARDENS

Turning a new leaf.

46

cooking FRESH

Jack Allen’s Kitchen.

64

edible PRESERVES

Fermenting basics.

74

department of ORGANIC YOUTH

Grow Dat, part II.

76

la casita de BUEN SABOR

Frijoles a la charra.

78

seasonal MUSE

The value of time.

80 hip girl’s guide to HOMEMAKING

Nut milks.

81

The Directory

42

Guide

HEIRLOOM features 28 Barbacoa Ever-evolving dish rooted in tradition.

36 Rice in Texas The history of rice in Texas and a look to its future.

50

The Circle, Delicious and Unbroken Feed your late night donut cravings.

60

Standing the Taste of Time all Creek Vineyards’ early vision has weathered F many storms.

68 Grandmother Billy’s Fried Chicken Piecing together a secret family recipe.

70 Turkish Mantı Are your mantı good enough to marry?

COVER: “Limones” by Knoxy.

PUBLISHER’S NOTE

TAKE COMFORT IN RADICAL CHANGE

T

PUBLISHER Marla Camp

ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER Jenna Noel

hings have changed a bit since we began publishing Edible Austin in

EDITOR

2007. There is more awareness about why we should care where

Kim Lane

our food comes from and how it directly affects our health and the

ADVERTISING DIRECTOR

future of our planet. There is more sustainably and locally produced

Dawn Jordan

food that we can buy at more farmers markets, eat in more restaurants and find in more grocery stores. That is good. And that is satisfying.

PRODUCTION ASSISTANT Whitney Arostegui

But that is not enough. The world is plunging toward an end-game scenario that is not what I would wish for my grandchildren—or theirs. We can see the writing on the wall in climate change research and population models that predict degrading conditions—environmental, geopolitical and financial—for nature-based food production worldwide, which is the heart and soul of our existence.

What it will take for us to tilt the balance back is radical change. Naomi Klein, in her new book, “This Changes Everything: Capitalism vs. the Climate,” posits that dealing with the consequences of climate change not only requires a new economy

MARKETING ASSISTANT Shannon Kintner

COPY EDITOR Anne Marie Hampshire

EDITORIAL ASSISTANTS Melinda Barsales, Dena Garcia, Marie Franki Hanan, Cari Marshall Michelle Moore, Lauren Walz

but a new way of thinking. When I heard her speak about this on National Public

ADVERTISING SALES

Radio recently, my spirits lifted. Incremental change may feel safe, but we could also

Curah Beard, Lori Brix, Valerie Kelly, Christine Kearney, Katy Mabee

choose to take comfort in a more radical shift to accomplish what we envision for the future.

DISTRIBUTION MANAGER

Enter chef, author and food activist Dan Barber. He practices a radical new approach to cooking in his highly acclaimed Blue Hill restaurants in Manhattan and at the Stone Barns Center for Food & Agriculture in upstate New York. He asserts that our role in the natural system of things as eaters and providers of food to eaters is to honor the process of preserving the soil and oceans that give us our food by supporting them wholly and not just cherry-picking their boutique offspring. If rotation crops are part of the cycle of nourishing the soil that produces the ingredients we traditionally have demanded, then let’s also incorporate those crops into our menus, our shopping lists and on our plates. This gives stronger financial sup-

Greg Rose

ADVISORY GROUP Terry Thompson-Anderson, Paula Angerstein, Dorsey Barger, Jim Hightower, Toni Tipton-Martin, Mary Sanger, Suzanne Santos, Carol Ann Sayle

CONTACT US Edible Austin 1415 Newning Avenue, Austin, TX 78704 512-441-3971 info@edibleaustin.com edibleaustin.com

port to farmers and rewards stewardship of our limited earthly resources. Join us at the Paramount Theatre on Monday, December 8 to hear him speak.

Our Heirloom issue honors things past, and in doing so hopes to preserve our future. In this issue, we’re featuring your granddaddy’s donuts, grandmother Billy’s fried chicken, one of Texas’ pioneering and persevering wineries, the history of rice production in Texas, and what barbacoa was before mad cow disease altered it forever.

Comfort food is part of the fabric of our lives. And we can take comfort in doing whatever it takes to preserve this for future generations.

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Edible Austin is published bimonthly by Edible Austin L.L.C. All rights reserved. Subscription rate is $35 annually. No part of this publication may be used without written permission of the publisher. ©2014. Every effort is made to avoid errors, misspellings and omissions. If, however, an error comes to your attention, please accept our sincere apologies and notify us.

Start planning your week at EdibleAustin.com Benefitting Urban Roots & Sustainable Food Center An Evening with Dan Barber Dec. 8 | 7 PM

Coming Soon!

Schedule of other Eat Drink Local Week 2014 Events

THE PARAMOUNT THEATRE Join us for an unforgettable evening with Dan Barber in his first Texas appearance to talk about his new book, “The Third Plate,” presented by Edible Austin and the Paramount Theatre, and featuring musical guest Michael Fracasso.

Barber is the chef of Blue Hill in Manhattan and Blue Hill at Stone Barns (Stone Barns Center for Food & Agriculture is a nonprofit farm and education center). His opinions on food and agricultural policy have appeared in the New York Times, along with many other publications. Barber has received multiple James Beard awards including Best Chef: New York City (2006) and the country’s Outstanding Chef (2009). In 2009 he was named one of Time magazine’s 100 Most Influential People in the World.

Edible Austin VIP Reception VIP tickets include a signed copy of “The Third Plate” and a reception from 6–7 p.m., where you can meet Dan Barber before the show while enjoying locally sourced, seasonal tastings from Dai Due, Café Josie, Hoover’s Cooking and Lenoir, along with cocktails by Tito’s Vodka and Thirsty Planet beer.

Other Ways to Get Involved Social Media We love to engage with the community over Twitter, Facebook and Instagram. Follow us @edibleaustin and tag us in anything related to Eat Drink Local Week with the hashtag #EDLW14

Shop Locally Whether it’s at farmers markets, farm stands or grocery stores like in.gredients, Wheatsville Food Co-op or Whole Foods Market—try cooking one meal entirely from local produce and proteins!

Eat Out Locally We’ve launched a mapped guide to local-sourcing restaurants in Austin. At these restaurants you will find chefs who focus on using sustainable, local ingredients to create their menus. The map also functions as a simple way to find a great meal in town.

For guides and more information visit edibleaustin.com/eatdrinklocal

TICKET INFORMATION General Admission: $35 Student: $25 VIP: $130

For tickets, visit austintheatre.org or call 512-474-1221.

Proceeds from the event support the historic Paramount Theatre, Sustainable Food Center and Urban Roots.

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notable MENTIONS HISTORIC FARMHOUSE TOUR NOVEMBER 1–2 Boggy Creek Farm invites the public on Saturday and Sunday, November 1–2 to tour the farmhouse built by pioneers James and Elizabeth Smith. The house, built over the winter of 1840–1841, shares the distinction (with the French Legation) of being the oldest house in Austin, and has a rich history, including a wedding attended by Sam Houston. Docent-guided tours are free, and include the newer adjoining “dogtrot” house, inspired by the 1845 home of Anson Jones, the last president of the Republic of Texas. For more information, visit boggycreekfarm.com or call 512-926-4650.

CELEBRATE THE TASTES OF TEXAS WITH JAK Jack Gilmore, co-owner and executive chef at Jack Allen’s Kitchen, will sign and talk about his just-released book, “Jack Allen’s Kitchen: Celebrating the Tastes of Texas,” at BookPeople on Friday, November 21 at 7 p.m. In addition to hearing Gilmore’s behind-the-scenes stories, enjoy small bites from recipes in the book, as well as Flat Creek Estate Super Texan Sangiovese and Grapefruit Sage cocktails made with Tito’s Handmade Vodka.

THE FUTURE OF FOOD What foods should be on our plates? Where do we take the farm-totable movement from here? Dan Barber, celebrated chef, food activist and author of the new book, “The Third Plate: Field Notes on the Future of Food,” comes to the Paramount Theatre, Monday, December 8, from 6–10 p.m., to spend the evening sharing his ideas for transforming the way we see our food. Presented by Edible Austin and the Paramount Theatre, the event also features Austin-based musician (and chef) Michael Fracasso, who will open the show. Tickets to this keynote event for Edible Austin’s Eat Drink Local Week (December 6–13) are available for $35 ($25 for students). A limited number of VIP tickets, priced at $130, include a signed copy of the book as well as priority seating for the event and entrance to a preevent reception featuring tastings from Dai Due, Café Josie, Hoover’s Cooking and Lenoir, along with cocktails by Tito’s Handmade Vodka and Thirsty Planet beer. Visit austintheatre. org to purchase tickets and visit edibleaustin. com for more information about this year’s Eat Drink Local Week fundraiser for Sustainable Food Center and Urban Roots.

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This exhibition is organized by the Museum of Contemporary Art San Diego, and is made possible by generous lead underwriting support from Tami and Michael Lang, and corporate underwriting from The San Diego County BMW Centers. Additional funding has been received from Stephen Feinberg.

View of James Drake studio, New Mexico. Image courtesy of the artist.

#BrainTrash Blanton Museum of Art / The University of Texas at Austin / MLK at Congress / www.blantonmuseum.org / 512.471.7324

@blantonmuseum

LET’S DO COFFEE Faraday’s Kitchen Store, in Bee Cave, celebrates all things coffee at their 2nd annual CoffeeFest on Saturday, November 8, from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. The day will be brimming with food and fun, coffees to sample and espresso-based workshops that will make true baristas of us all.

Jura’s Capresso specialists will demonstrate the latest in automatic coffee center technology and brew up some delicious holiday coffee drinks to sample. Visit faradayskitchenstore.com for more details.

CHAMPAGNE, CABERNET AND CHEFS The Wine and Food Foundation of Texas presents its 12th annual Big Reds & Bubbles on Thursday, November 6 at 6:30 p.m., featuring champagne, sparkling wines and “big reds” from around the world. More than a dozen of Austin’s top chefs will be showcased at the event, held in The Driskill Hotel’s ballroom, along with live music and a silent auction. Visit winefoodfoundation.org for more information and tickets.

LUMINATIONS AT THE WILDFLOWER CENTER Enjoy the natural beauty of the Lady Bird

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Johnson Wildflower Center, brought to life at night with thousands of luminarias and twinkle lights, on Saturday and Sunday, December 13 and 14, from 6 to 9 p.m. Luminations will also feature Frosty the Snowman, the Austin Banjo Club, the Chalameau Quartet, La Grosse Tet and the Eanes High School Choir, plus holiday specials at our store. Admission is free with a donation of two canned goods for the Capital Area Food Bank. Visit wildflower.org for more information.

SAVE THE DATE FOR BACON AND BEER! Toast two of your favorites—beer and bacon—both under the same roof at the 2nd annual Austin Bacon and Beer Festival, on Sunday, January 25, from 2:30 to 5 p.m., at East Austin’s Fair Market, copresented by Edible Austin and Eat Boston. Sample bacon-centric recipes from a slew of area restaurants, and pair them with some of the finest craft brews in Central Texas at this perennially sold-out event. Go to edibleaustin.com for the latest updates and some new surprises! Proceeds benefit the Capital Area Food Bank of Texas.

Tickets on sale December 1.

Boggy Creek Farm Fresh Produce Stand

8 AM to 1 PM Wednesday, Thursday, Friday and Saturday! www.boggycreekfarm.com

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notable EDIBLES AUSTIN’S 130-YEAR LOVE AFFAIR

I

f you need proof that Austin has a sweet tooth, look no further than Lammes Candies. The local confection institution will

celebrate its 130th birthday in 2015—a tremendous milestone for this family-owned business.

Lammes Candies was founded in 1878 by William Wirt Lamme.

Originally called the Red Front Candy Factory, the business was soon lost by Lamme in a poker game. But his son David Turner Lamme,

2nd Annual

Jura Coffeefest SATURDAY, NOVEMBER 8

Sr., came to town, settled the gambling debt of $800 and won back the business. The family reopened the store in 1885 as Lammes Candies, and the business has been family-owned and operated ever since. Austin had fewer than 25,000 citizens in 1885, but five generations later, Austin is booming, and so is business for Lammes.

The Texas Chewie Pecan Praline (always made using only Texas-grown pecans) has been in production since 1892 and is the company’s most popular candy. It’s joined on the shelves by hundreds of other creative creations, such as the Choc’Adillo, a chocolate-dipped cluster of roasted almonds and caramel, and the Cashew Critter—the same kind of confection—but with cashews instead of almonds. And it’s tough to ignore the citywide fervor Lammes’ chocolate-covered strawberries create in the spring as customers scramble to fill up on this limited-release item. “It’s remarkable, in this day and age, that a family business can sustain and even thrive,” says Pam Tiech, who runs the business with her

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siblings Bryan Tiech and Lana Schmidt—all Lamme descendants.

“Business is hard enough, and when you couple that with family, it can be quite challenging. We’ve survived despite ourselves, but we have drawn on our strengths and, thanks to Austin, done well.”

Of course, the family doesn’t do it alone, and has relied on remarkable help along the way from dedicated employees like Mildred Walston, who is celebrating her 74th year with the company. In 2012, the Austin City Council named an entire week in

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Walston’s honor for her devotion to the business. “I’ve told Mildred that if she tries to retire, I will too,” says Pam. “She comes in two days each week and is like a mother hen and best friend to most of us. We couldn’t do it without her.”

The family hasn’t decided yet how they’ll celebrate their momentous birthday, but they’re looking forward to opening a fifth location before Christmas in the Hillside Shopping Center on Anderson Lane. “We were in Northcross Mall forever, but when they reconfigured it, the space didn’t work for us anymore,” says Pam. “We’re excited to be back in the neighborhood.”

Lammes is also reaching out to new Austinites through the Austin Independent Business Alliance’s Buy Local program, which it recently joined. “Austin is growing so fast, and it’s a challenge just to reach out to the new people in town,” says Pam. “We’re inviting people to come give us a try because we know they’ll find something

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in our store that they will fall in love with.” —Kristi Willis For more information, visit lammes.com

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FERMENT YOUR FOODS!

T

he very first Austin Fermentation Festival is scheduled to take place from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. on Saturday, November 15 at

Le Cordon Bleu’s campus in the Domain Shopping Center. This free event, sponsored by Texas Farmers Market, Whole Foods Market and Le Cordon Bleu College of Culinary Arts, will include local and regional experts who will share information on the benefits of, and steps for, making fermented foods. “This festival will celebrate the art of making traditionally fermented foods and beverages, such as kimchee, kombucha, kefir, pickles and other cultured vegetables, sauerkraut, beer, wine, cider and sourdough bread,” says Carla Jenkins, the market manager for Texas Farmers Market. “And it will empower attendees to make these foods at home.”

Of course, one major draw of the festival is award-winning author and fermentation guru Sandor Katz, who is credited with sparking a nationwide revival of interest in fermented foods. His most recent best-selling book, “The Art of Fermentation,” won the 2013 James Beard Foundation Book Award for Reference and Scholarship. But organizers are quick to point out it doesn’t end there. “It’s not just Sandor’s wisdom and advice,” says co-organizer Kate Payne, a local author who regularly teaches fermentation workshops around town.

“It’s a ton of local experts and artisans who are teaching [others] how to do their particular fermented craft. When do you get to experience ten people telling you exactly how to make their amazing cider or kimchee or yogurt or kefir in a free setting with thousands

Along with Payne, presenters will include Jester King Brewery, Argus Cidery, Eagle Mountain Farmhouse Cheese and Buddha’s Brew Kombucha. There will be a community culture swap, fermented food vendors, books for sale, a farmers market and live music. Whole Foods Market will also offer a meal made with fermented ingredients for purchase.

Jenkins and Payne say it was important to keep this year’s festival free in order to make this healthy form of

Fermentation guru Sandor Katz

eating more widely accessible. “Science and experience tell us that it is possible to cultivate a healthier community of bacteria in our bodies by modifying our diets to include fermented foods that contain probiotics and beneficial bacteria,” says Jenkins. “We figure it’s never too late to eat healthier, and we want our community to learn what our ancestors experienced with fermented foods.”

While the daytime festival is free, limited-availability tickets will be on sale for an Austin Fermentation Festival after-party and meet-and-greet with Sandor Katz at HausBar Farms. Proceeds will benefit Sustainable Food Center and the Farm and Ranch Freedom Alliance. The event will include dinner bites from Qui, Dai Due, Salt & Time, Lenoir, Bola Pizza and Mum Foods, as well as dessert bites from Janina O’Leary, executive pastry chef of laV. —Nicole Lessin For more information, visit texasfarmersmarket.org

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DAI DUE GETS PHYSICAL

E

ight years may seem like a rather long time to take to open a restaurant, but Dai Due isn’t your ordinary establishment. In

fact, when Jesse Griffiths, owner and chef of Dai Due (dī-doo-ā), first debuted his farmers market pop-up stand, he had every intention of taking a sabbatical from the restaurant world for a while. Fast-forward to this past August, and the chef rejoined the brick-and-mortar scene in a new space in the Cherrywood neighborhood on Manor Road.

“When I started Dai Due, I didn’t want to open a restaurant simply because that was the world I was coming out of at the time,” says Griffiths. “But getting involved in the farmers markets over the years made us realize Dai Due’s demand really called for a more permanent space. I’m grateful it took eight years to get here—we had enough time to solidify our ideas and our ideals, and built a great staff in the process. I’m just glad everything is finally under one roof now.”

The 2,500-square-foot, red brick and light wood butcher shop/ restaurant is characterized by its distinct details: a finger-smudged glass case of gorgeous cold cuts, including venison chops and ante-

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lope; country-chic, white-washed wood paneling; glass jars full of colorful, worldly spices; an open, inviting kitchen that reveals the staff’s methodical baking, butchering and cooking; and a nightly crowd of friends and families dining on local fare, such as quail, goat sausage, brined Dewberry Hills Farms chicken and an impeccable collection of Texas wines and beers, which are served both in bottles and on tap. “We took a pretty big risk in saying we were only going to

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stick with Texas wines—mostly because there’s this perception that they aren’t very good. But we’ve put together a collection that way exceeded what we’d expected,” Griffiths says. “I think people will be pleasantly surprised.”

What’s more, Griffiths has managed to extend his wild-game program, which has easily become his signature culinary trade.

“Through different channels, we were able to find these meats we’re featuring on the menu and in our cold cuts,” he says. “We actually have this wild venison and antelope from the Hill Country that I’m really excited about, as well as some axis, red deer, oryx and feral hogs. That seems to be what people are really gravitating towards right now.” —Layne Victoria Lynch Dai Due is located at 2406 Manor Rd. For more information and

Photography by Jody Horton

hours, call 512-524-0688, or visit daidue.com

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A LITTLE PLOT FOR LEARNING

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T

he farm plot may be micro—spanning just one-fifth of an acre—but that doesn’t mean the vision of the people behind

the UT Micro Farm is as well. On a recent Tuesday evening, volunteer student workers made their way through the thicket of vines and rainbow chard just as the sun settled on the western edge of the University of Texas campus. Here, participants learn to appreciate one special hour, and the impact—both local and global—one person and one small farm can make.

Not long ago, students Daniella Lewis, Juliet Laney and Margaret Wellik shared the idea that food is worth thinking about. Together, they sought funding from the university’s Green Fee Committee to start UT’s first student-run organic farm. (The Green Fee is a $5 per semester fee collected as part of the university’s tuition and transferred to the committee, who rewards collected funds to environmental service projects on campus.) Following the successful project pitch, the students broke ground in 2013 on a small patch of Blackland Prairie soil at 2204 Leona Street.

The premise behind the farm is much more than simply growing one’s own supper, though. In fact, the students rarely take home the bounty. Instead, it’s sold to the UT Division of Housing and Food Service to help provide for other students.

Whatever is left goes on the stands at the farm on Saturday

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mornings and on campus during the week. The rest is donated to a local charity.

The founders of the farm, now graduated, believe that food and farming are broad and intricate topics that involve health and nutrition, traditions and culture, agriculture and technology and environmental and community concerns. Because of this, the UT Micro Farm strives to be a space where students of all

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disciplines are welcome to continue their education with their hands in the dirt.

Micro Farm Development Director Dominique Vyborny is a business major. She joined the farm at the end of 2013 and has since applied concepts she’s learned in school to the farm. She’s currently working on the farm’s marketing plan as well as boosting public outreach endeavors. She says volunteers learn valuable lessons in critical thinking, research, public relations, communications, project development, environmental practices and business management, not to mention organic and sustainable agriculture techniques.

The farm is currently testing various irrigation systems— including drip irrigation, ollas and wicking beds—and experimenting with growing different varieties of plants, such as golden berries, moon and star watermelons, red Russian kale, ginger and Armenian cucumbers.

At the end of a workday, the students might not reap the benefits of consuming their sown edibles, but they leave with a sense of purpose and that they’ve provided value to their community. “On a primal level, there’s something about working out here as the sun sets that is so enjoyable and so connected to being present in, and a part of, the world,” Vyborny says. “It’s almost spiritual.” —Claire Cella For more information, visit utmicrofarm.wordpress.com

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edible CONVERSATION

DAN BARBER

BY E L I Z A B E T H W I N S LOW • P H OTO G RA P H Y BY SUS I E CUS H N E R

C

hef and visionary Dan Barber might be forgiven for presuming to know a thing or two about sustainable food systems.

He writes about food and agriculture in national publica-

tions, has won his profession’s most coveted awards—including a 2006 James Beard for Best Chef: New York City—and was named in Time magazine’s 100 Most Influential People in the World list in 2009. At his flagship restaurant, Blue Hill at Stone Barns, food is grown in fields just outside the windows and grilled over wood harvested from nearby forests. But several years ago, when visiting farmer Klaas Martens at Lakeview Organic Grain, Barber had an epiphany that moved him in a new direction.

Barber and Martens were standing in a field planted with cover crop. Barber had come to talk about emmer wheat—a sweet and nutty grain that had him swooning. Martens, however, was talking about soil. His fields were planted with millet, barley, kidney beans, winter peas, mustard and clover—all part of his method to enrich the soil and build a foundation for a later crop of emmer by rotating crops that add nutrients to the soil. As they spoke and surveyed the fields, Barber realized how limited his perspective had been, and how his own interest in nothing but the emmer had an impact on Martens’ profitability. Barber bent down and tasted a pea shoot. Revelation! It was sweet and complex. He gathered what he could and, that night at the restaurant, he created a new dish he called “Rotation Risotto.” Yet, as delicious as it was, Barber understood that his new ideas might be difficult for some to swallow.

In his new book, “The Third Plate,” Barber examines the trends in the way we’ve grown and consumed food—beginning with the first “plate” holding the traditional large portion of store-bought meat accompanied by few vegetables, followed by the current wave of “second plate” featuring a smaller portion of humanely raised, locally procured meat paired with copious, locally grown vegetables. Barber then challenges us to seek a “third plate” and question what sustainable really means, and he believes that the farm-to-table movement has hit a wall and will stall unless we take a whole farm approach to cooking and eating.

To illustrate this principle, his book follows a collection of eclectic

vising his menus—then doing away with them altogether. What he

culinary characters and food producers across the U.S. and around

needed was a paradigm shift. “I was still sketching out ideas for dishes

the world, and presents a cuisine path that more closely mirrors the

first and figuring out what farmers could supply us with later—check-

system of agriculture. “The larger problem, as I came to see it,” says

ing off ingredients as if shopping at a grocery store.” Written over a

Barber, “was that farm-to-table allows, even celebrates, a kind of cher-

decade, “The Third Plate” is the realization of this new way of un-

ry-picking of ingredients that are often ecologically demanding and

derstanding food. We caught up with Barber recently to hear more

expensive to grow.” He came at the problem again and again, first re-

about the reshaping of our food consciousness and landscape.

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Edible Austin: For people who haven’t yet read your book, how would you define true agricultural diversity as it relates to what we eat, and why is it important?

Serving Lunch, Brunch and Dinner with a menu inspired by our farmer friends.

Dan Barber: As a nation, we tend to eat “high on the hog,” whether it’s a 16-ounce pork chop or a prized heirloom tomato. True agricultural diversity—and true culinary diversity—means looking beyond just the prime cuts and the costly specialty crops to all of the ingredients that make up a healthy ecology. We’ve seen the recent success of the nose-to-tail movement in celebrating underutilized parts of the animal. What if we applied that mentality to the whole farm? To overlooked, soil-supporting crops like buckwheat or cowpeas? To bruised and fallen fruits? To foraged crops like cattails?

That is the question for the future: How can we make the most efficient and delicious use of what a landscape can provide?

EA: What are some relatively simple ways we can begin to diversify what we eat at home?

DB: Subscribe to a CSA and, more importantly, challenge yourself to use every ingredient you’re given in the box. Pretty soon you’ll become better acquainted with the ecological realities of farming, and you’ll start thinking more creatively in the kitchen.

EA: How does “The Third Plate” philosophy present a challenge to chefs used to working with “luxury” ingredients, and what advice do you have for them in meeting these challenges?

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DB: The good news is that the idea of the gourmet meal is being turned on its head. Many of the best chefs in the world are no longer glorifying foie gras and lobster on their menus—in part because those things aren’t that interesting to cook. Instead, they are celebrating in-

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gredients that are very specific to a particular place and time. I don’t want to understate the challenge, but when you truly commit to those kinds of constraints, I think it’s a much more exciting and delicious way to cook. That excitement spreads quickly to diners.

EA: What resources do you recommend for home cooks looking to discover and cook with underutilized ingredients?

DB: I like looking at cookbooks devoted to very specific micro-cuisines—the cooking of Sicily or Sichuan or Aleppo, Syria.

That’s something we lack in America, but it’s something I think we should be working toward. These kinds of cookbooks can also be instructive in how to deal with underutilized ingredients, because many cultures have been cooking with them all along.

EA: Describe an ideal “Third Plate” meal.

DB: Depends entirely on the time of year. But as I write this, I’m watching a cook prep tonight’s “beetfurters,” made from beets, scraps of pork and beef and a little pig’s blood. We grill them over charcoal made from carbonized pig bones—which infuses them with this incredible smoky, fatty aroma—and serve them on a wholewheat bun made from flour we mill in our kitchen. By itself, that’s a

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edible EXCERPT

ON BEING A CHEF ACTIVIST

BY DA N BA R B E R This excerpt from “The Third Plate: Field Notes on the Future of Food” by Dan Barber is reprinted by arrangement with Penguin Press, a member of Penguin Group (USA) LLC, A Penguin Random House Company. Copyright © Dan Barber, 2014.

T

first; assembling the ingredients comes later.

It was the nouvelle cuisine chefs of the

it happened the other way around. We foraged

1960s who, breaking with an onerous tradition

and then, out of sheer necessity, transformed

of classic French cuisine, stepped out of the

what we found into something else—some-

confines of the kitchen and launched modern

thing more digestible and storable, with better

gastronomy. They created new styles of cook-

nutrition and flavor. Farm‑to‑table restaurants

ing based on seasonal flavors, smaller portions,

promote their menus as having evolved in that

and artistic plating. In doing so, they estab-

order: forage first—maybe with a morning’s

lished the authority of the chef, giving him a

stroll through the farmers’ market—and cre-

platform of influence that has only continued

ate later. The promise of farm‑to‑table cooking

to expand.

is that menus take their shape from the con-

he idea of chef as activist is a relatively new one.

We forget that for most of human history,

We now have the power to quickly popu-

straints of local agriculture and celebrate them.

larize certain products and ingredients—in

••

some cases, as with certain fish, to the point

Farm‑to‑table may sound right—it’s direct

of commercial extinction—and increasingly

and connected—but really the farmer ends up

we do, with dizzying speed and effect. But we also possess the potential to get people to rethink their eating habits.

servicing the table, not the other way around. It makes good agriculture difficult to sustain.

Which is where farm‑to‑table chefs have been most effective.

••

Today the message has gone viral, highlighting the perils of our na-

What we refer to as the beginning and end of the food chain—a

tion’s diet and exposing the connections between how we eat and

field on a farm at one end, a plate of food at the other—isn’t really

our heavy environmental footprint.

a chain at all. The food chain is actually more like a set of Olympic

••

rings. They all hang together. Which is how I came to understand

And yet, for all the movement’s successes, and the accompany-

that the right kind of cooking and the right kind of farming are one

ing shift in popular consciousness, the gains haven’t changed, in any

and the same. Our belief that we can create a sustainable diet for

fundamental way, the political and economic forces shaping how

ourselves by cherry-picking great ingredients is wrong. Because it’s

most of the food in this country is grown or raised.

too narrow-minded. We can’t think about changing parts of our sys-

Nor, for that matter, have they changed the culture of American

tem. We need to think about redesigning the system.

cooking. Americans have more opportunities to opt out of the con-

A good place to start is with a new conception of a plate of food,

ventional food chain than ever before (farmers’ markets are ubiqui-

a Third Plate—which is less a “plate,” per se, than a different way of

tous; organic food is widely available) and more information about

cooking, or assembling a dish, or writing a menu, or sourcing ingre-

how to do it (innumerable cooking shows and easy access to a world

dients—or really all these things. It combines tastes not based on

of online recipes), but the food culture—the way we eat, which is

convention, but because they fit together to support the environ-

different than what we eat—has remained largely unaffected.

ment that produced them.

•• Chefs are often asked how their menus are created, especially

And its realization will rely, at least in part, on chefs. They will play a leading role, similar to that of a musical conductor.

how new dishes come into existence. Some of us are inspired by a

Today’s food culture has given chefs a platform of influence, in-

favorite food from childhood, or we’re drawn to rethinking classic

cluding the power, if not the luxury, to innovate. As arbiters of taste,

preparations. A new kitchen tool may spark an idea, or a visit to

we can help inspire a Third Plate, a new way of eating that puts it all

the museum. As with anything creative, it’s tough to pinpoint the

together. That’s a tall order for any chef, not to mention eaters, but

origin, but whatever the process, the scaffolding for the idea forms

it’s an intuitive one as well.

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new this fall Acclaimed Texas chef Jack Gilmore, owner of the popular Austin-area Jack Allen’s Kitchen restaurants, presents over 150 delicious recipes that feature fresh, seasonal Texas ingredients, accompanied by profiles of the local farmers who supply them.

Jack Allen’s Kitchen

Celebrating the Tastes of Texas by jack gilmore and jessica dupuy 300 pages, 350 color photos $39.95 hardcover

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university of texas press EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

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21

COOKS at home

JOHN AND KENDALL ANTONELLI

BY K R I ST I W I L L I S • P H OTO G RA P H Y BY K AT E L ESU EU R

A

s the owners of Antonelli’s Cheese Shop prepared to ring

dinners; it’s easy to make, and the ingredients can be substituted

in the New Year in 2013, there was no question that they

with whatever’s on hand. Also, it’s a recipe that everyone in the

had much to celebrate. But with a 3-year-old business and an

family can help prepare—an important factor now that Everett

8-month-old son, John and Kendall Antonelli were, quite naturally,

wants in on the act.

too tired for an evening out on the town. Instead, they invited friends

When the toddler sees Mom starting to assemble the dish, he

and family over for a New Year’s Day brunch. “Our friends, who

exclaims, “I help!” and crawls up on the stool to assist. Kendall

had been instrumental in listening to us form our plans for a cheese

shows him how to layer the bread, cheese and meat. She then gen-

business, had given up on calling us, knowing we were unavailable—

tly coaches him, “Sprinkle, sprinkle, sprinkle,” as he tosses the pep-

either working or catching up on rest with the baby,” says Kendall.

per across the top of the dish.

“Despite being exhausted, we recognized the need to ground ourselves and be surrounded by friends to greet the New Year.”

Not surprisingly, the Antonellis celebrated with meats and cheeses, and among the dishes at that brunch was a Monte Cristo

While John is preparing ingredients, deftly navigating the kitchen with daughter Elia attached to him in her Baby Björn, Everett practices his knife skills with a toy culinary kit—sawing away at the wooden bread with a wooden knife while Mom again guides, “Cut, cut, cut.”

strata that has become a mainstay for their growing family. “The

Once the strata goes into the oven, the family has a solid 45 min-

strata is an easy way for us to use the leftovers from the night be-

utes of playtime together before dinner—cherished time with the

fore,” says John. “And it’s the kind of cooking that doesn’t take away

kids. “The first time I knew I was a real dad was when we’d given

from the quality time with the kids.”

Everett a banana on a plane and he was smashing it between his

The Antonellis have worked hard to create a balance between

fingers,” says John. “We didn’t have quick access to a napkin and I

growing their popular business and having ample time for their

realized the only rational thing to do was lick it off his hands. It was

(now) two young kids, Everett and Elia. “It’s almost like we have

nasty, but I had to do it. Kendall looked at me and said, ‘I love you.’”

three kids: A four-year-old business, a two-year-old boy and a

Balancing their roles as business owners and parents isn’t al-

six-month-old girl,” says John. “Each one has its own stages and

ways easy, but John and Kendall approach life like they do the fam-

requires different skill sets, some of which we have and some of

ily dinner: Prepare early and improvise along the way.

which we don’t. We learn more than we give every day.”

Like most small business owners, the Antonellis used to shoulder the extra hours it took for special events or big projects. Slowly, though, they’ve been able to expand and train their team to take on some of the weightier duties so that they could cut back their hours to a more reasonable 40 per week—giving the Antonellis more time in the evenings and on weekends with the kids.

Even with the dedicated family time, though, getting dinner to the table can be a challenge—particularly with a hungry two-yearold underfoot. “It took Everett a long time to learn that dinner isn’t ready when we start cooking,” says Kendall. “If you take noodles out of the cabinet, he wants them on the plate.”

To avoid dinnertime misunderstandings, the Antonellis often prepare ingredients in the morning, or use the slow cooker or smoker to get dinner ready more quickly. They also share the cooking responsibilities: one of them takes on dinner while the other entertains the kids.

The versatile strata recipe fits perfectly into these weeknight

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JOHN AND KENDALL ANTONELLI’S “STRAIGHT OFF THE TODDLER’S HAND, IF NECESSARY” MONTE CRISTO STRATA This recipe calls for Gruyère, and there are a lot of Gruyères available. The Antonellis often use the 1655 Le Crêt Gruyère, or substitute with an Alpine-style cheese such as Pleasant Ridge Reserve (from Uplands Cheese Company in Wisconsin). For the meat, use any type of ham, but the Antonellis prefer Surryano ham, shaved thin. But they’ve also used La Quercia Speck Americano, which gives the strata a smokier flavor. For the bread, the Antonellis suggest Easy Tiger’s pain au levain, and if you’re not a fan of tarragon, substitute with another seasonal herb.

Softened butter 1 1¼-lb. loaf bakery white bread, sliced, divided ¼ c. grainy mustard, divided 1 lb. Surryano ham, divided 2 T. chopped tarragon, divided

¾ lb. Gruyère, shredded (about 3 cups), divided 3 c. milk 4 large eggs Freshly ground black pepper, to taste Preheat the oven to 375° and butter a 9-by-13-inch dish. Arrange ¹/³ of the bread in the bottom of the dish and spread ½ of the mustard on top. Top with ½ of the ham, 1 T. of the tarragon and ¹/³ of the Gruyère cheese. Repeat the layering, ending with the bread on top and reserving the last third of cheese. In a medium bowl, whisk together the milk and the eggs and season with the black pepper. Pour the custard evenly over the dish—pressing the bread to absorb the liquid. Add the remaining cheese on top and cover with a sheet of buttered parchment. Bake in the center of the oven for 30 to 35 minutes. Remove the parchment, turn on the broiler and broil for 3 minutes until golden brown.

Let stand for 10 minutes before serving.

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farmers DIARY

44 FARMS

BY L AY N E V I CTO R I A LY N C H • P H OTO G RA P H Y BY A N DY SA M S

W

hen Bob McClaren, current owner and CEO of 44 Farms, reorganized and revived his family’s fertile estate in the late ’90s, he had no idea the lush ranch would go on to

become lifeblood to both ranchers and restaurants in Texas. Today, 44 Farms is the largest Black Angus producer in Texas—supplier to fanfare haunts such as Franklin Barbecue, Salt & Time, Jack Allen’s Kitchen, Moonshine Patio Bar and Grill, Black Star Co-op and more than 60 other restaurants throughout the state. And even though the inspiration for the name of the ranch remains a mystery (McClaren suspects it may have originally been related to acreage or head of cattle), there’s nothing mysterious about the attention and popularity this business is enjoying.

Sprawled over acres of electric-green grass, tall shady trees, fresh water and fertile pastureland in Cameron, Texas, 44 Farms is home to crops of crisp corn and nourishing grain and most importantly, a wandering herd of shiny black purebred treasures. Even though ranching is practically embedded in his DNA, McClaren would never have predicted he’d one day be tending to bulls and beef after building a successful career as a mergers and acquisitions lawyer and the president of business operations for the Houston Astros. Now, as the manager of the land his great-grandparents Sherwood and Josie McClaren acquired in 1909, he feels he’s come home. “I’d come in the summers as a kid to see my grandparents and fell in love with the farm. The whole idea of the Texas cowboy and ranching lifestyle seemed so romantic, but my dad always warned me how hard a farmer’s life is, and he was right,” McClaren says. “I’ve been blessed to have a great career in all of my endeavors. To be a part of professional baseball was a thrill, but I’m grateful that I came back to agriculture.”

Unlike mass producers of beef, 44 Farms sells a significant percentage of meat that’s graded USDA Prime—a grade of beef that comprises only 2 percent of the total beef market. “I did a lot of research into all the different breeds, but nothing surpassed the

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quality of Black Angus,” McClaren says. “We rely on a lot of different factors: pedigree, DNA, projected fitness and a number of data points to grade our meat, and we’re always aiming to produce the best possible.” Further adding to the beef’s esteem, 44 Farms’ cattle are raised solely on a forage-based diet—receiving no growth hormones or additives during their lifespan.

Up until two years ago, 44 Farms focused on raising, breeding and selling Black Angus cattle and its seed stock to ranchers, but as is the typical way with Texas beef, it’s hard to keep something that marvelous a secret for too long. Soon, 44 Steaks—provider of 44 Farms’ marbled, juicy Black Angus meat—was woven into the business model. Since that key expansion, a deluge of casual- and fine-dining establishments in Houston, Dallas, Austin and everywhere in between have been lining up to get their hands on beef ribs, flank steaks, New York strips, rib-eyes, sirloin, ground beef, beef franks and other succulent cuts. Each customer has their preferred cuts, and even McClaren has no hesitation picking a favorite among his proteins. “You’ll hear a lot of people say rib-eye, but my favorite of all is the New York strip. Truthfully though, I must say I’ve never met a Black Angus I didn’t like.”

When 44 Steaks was first launched, online sales were slow and steady, but a tipping point was achieved when two Houston chefs—

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HEIRLOOM 2014

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including Randy Evans of the now-closed Haven—ventured out to Cameron to witness the majestic layout of the farm firsthand. “To their credit, they actually came out to see what they were buying,” says ranch overseer, and former turf manager for the Astros, Luke Jenkins. “I remember one of them saying, ‘If you’re going to be a cow, this is definitely heaven.’ I took a lot of pride in that confidence, and after they started talking about our meat, sales went up,” he says.

McClaren has the luxury of having his feet planted in both rural and urban territories. While the day-to-day operations of 44 Farms is carried out by six full-time ranch employees, McClaren and a handful of salespeople are charged with spreading the gospel of meat in places like Houston and Austin. “We’ve focused on encouraging restaurants to just give our products a taste test, but not necessarily do away with their other suppliers,” McClaren says.

“There’s plenty of room for competition in the field, and there’s no way we could solely meet the demand of a place like Franklin Barbecue. Believe me, I’d love to sell him all of our briskets, but it’s just not possible with that sort of demand.”

As for what the future holds for 44 Farms and 44 Steaks, McClaren emphasizes that the focus is all about sourcing quality and consistent meat and very little to do with growing the business in strides.

“We’ll continue to grow,” he says, “but I never want to see the day where we stub our toe and mess up on quality. That’s the day I know I’m not doing something right.”

For more information, visit 44farms.com

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edible TRADITIONS

BARBACOA I

f you order barbacoa in

meat pulls away nicely from

in most parts of Texas,

the bone. “Because of the long

you’ll most likely end up

cooking, the meat becomes

with

slow-roasted

sticky and delicious thanks to

beef—usually served on, or

savory,

all of the melting collagen,”

with, tortillas. But barbacoa

says Mexican cuisine cook-

isn’t an actual recipe, rath-

book author and chef Rick

er, it’s a generations-deep,

Bayless. Once cooked, noth-

slow-roasting method, us-

ing was wasted—the eyes,

ing fire or hot coals, that’s

tongue and brains were also

thought to have originated

consumed.

with the Taino people in the

In his new cookbook, “Tru-

Caribbean. Versions of the

ly Texas Mexican,” Adán Me-

roasting method spread to all

drano connects his family’s

parts of the Americas, where

barbacoa pit in San Antonio

an underground roasting pit

to the earthen ovens discov-

of hot coals covered with

ered just a few miles away at

leaves was often used. The

the Olmos Dam archaeological

native peoples of what be-

site. He remembers his moth-

came Texas were also known

er preparing the head before

to have utilized this under-

his father and uncles placed

ground method for roasting

it in the ground. She carefully

meats such as deer and ja-

rubbed it with a spice mixture

velina. But with the arrival

particular to San Antonio. “We

of the Spaniards to Mexico in the 1500s—along with their roaming herds of cows, pigs and

used black pepper, garlic and a little bit of cumin. Sometimes chile rojo but not normally,” he recalls.

goats—the native landscape, as well as the local diet, were forever

Closer to the border near McAllen, cookbook author Melissa

changed, and the word “barbacoa” became irrevocably attached

Guerra—whose family has lived in the region for 16 generations—says

to one particular cut of meat.

she and her husband Kiko season the head only with salt. “The head

Of the new animals now available to the natives, the lumber-

is usually wrapped in clean kitchen towels, then wrapped in a burlap

ing longhorn became prized for its heartiness, strength and ability

bag,” she says. For accompaniments, Guerra prefers corn tortillas but

to produce rich meat under harsh environmental circumstances.

admits that flour tortillas are probably more representative of the re-

But as part of the lower realm of the ranching culture, the disen-

gion. She considers chopped onion and cilantro an essential garnish,

franchised Tejanos could typically only afford the cheapest cuts of

but choosing between red or green salsa is a personal preference.

meat—like the head. Ultimately, they would call upon their ances-

“While growing up, it was common for people to have a hole

tral cooking skills to transform this unappealing cut of meat into

in the ground,” Guerra says. “And that was just their barbacoa

an exquisite meal.

pit.” Since the sheer volume of meat on one steer’s head produces

Barbacoa prepared the traditional way consists of the head of a

enough food for about 50 people, the dish is most often found at

steer wrapped in maguey leaves, placed in an underground pit and

weekend gatherings or on holiday mornings. “You invite everyone

slow-cooked over buried, hardwood coals, where it’s kissed with

over for morning barbacoa,” she explains. “That’s when it’s ready—

the pungent flavor of mesquite smoke until the succulent cheek

if you put it on the night before.”

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Photography © Adán Medrano, courtesy of Texas Tech University Press

BY M E R E D I T H B E T H U N E

Traditionally reserved for these family celebrations, barbacoa wasn’t sold commercially until the 20th century. Restrictive health codes over the years have all but done away with businesses offering underground-pit-roasted barbacoa, but Vera’s Backyard Bar-BQue in Brownsville, Texas, claims to be the only commercial establishment left in the country still making barbacoa this way. Owner Mando Vera, along with his wife and adult children, continue the legacy that his father started in 1955. On Friday evenings, Mando lightly seasons the heads, smokes them overnight over maguey coals and pulls the meat for takeout orders that begin coming in as early as 4:30 a.m. In keeping with the weekend barbacoa tradition, Vera’s is only open on Saturday and Sunday mornings. “We’ve just always done it that way,” Mando says.

Sesos (brains) advertised on Vera’s faded menu are no longer available because of a USDA ban, but the eyes—or “Mexican caviar,” as Mando jokingly refers to them—are still available and quite popular. “An older person would want the eyes and brains,” notes Medrano. “But the younger people don’t want any of that. They just want the cheeks. It has to do with differences between the generations and how urbanized we’ve now become.”

Rooted in cooking methods that are thousands of years old, barbacoa continues to evolve as more people trade domestic rural life for bustling cities. But, according to Medrano, barbacoa will still remain culturally significant no matter what form it takes.

“Through the years of oppression and racial discrimination,” he says, “we have been able—within the walls of our home—to create our own foods and keep our identity going.”

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BARBACOA AL HORNO Adapted from “Truly Texas Mexican” by Adán Medrano

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Serves 8 Even without a steer head and a pit, this recipe comes close to traditional barbacoa.

2 lb. boneless beef chuck 3 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed ½ white onion, rough-chopped ½ t. crushed black peppercorns ½ t. salt 2 2-inch sprigs fresh Mexican oregano Preheat oven to 200°. Place the beef in a Dutch oven and fill it halfway with water. Add the crushed garlic, onion, black peppercorns, salt and oregano, and bring to a boil on the stovetop.

Once boiling, turn off the heat. Cover tightly, place in the oven and cook for 6 to 8 hours—turning the meat over once during cooking. When the beef is finished, place it on a cutting board or in a large bowl and, using forks or wooden spoons, pull the meat apart. Adjust the salt to taste. Keep the meat warm for making individual tacos. Serve with hot corn tortillas, an array of salsas, coarsely chopped cilantro and Mexican lime wedges.

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edible ENDEAVOR

ASSURED SHARP

BY C L A I R E C E L L A • P H OTO G RA P H Y BY M E L A N I E G R I Z Z E L

S

trolling through the Texas Farm-

or Spain. In fact, he only began about

ers Market at Mueller, I hear

two years ago. Cruthirds grew up on a

it: the gentle, unbroken purr

20-acre coastal farm in Mississippi with

marked by a series of fierce, quavering

three siblings, who would all be raised

trills. It’s a sound that instantly evokes

to develop a deep Southern drawl and an

my childhood years, and as I contin-

ever deeper drive to, as Cruthirds says,

ue down the rows of fruits and vege-

“get up and go out and work.”

tables, I find the origin of the familiar

And that’s exactly what he did. After

noise. In the faint morning light, a man

finishing trade school, Cruthirds pursued

is hunched over a machine—carefully

a career in mechanical maintenance in ma-

drawing a silver blade across a whirl-

jor U.S. power plants across the South. But

ing belt with the subtlety of a violin

when it came time to think about retire-

player—the shrill grinding of the metal

ment 35 years later, he knew he wouldn’t be

ringing out every time the steel hits the

satisfied with the sudden lifestyle change

belt. As the daughter of a knife sharp-

that would bring. He still wanted to work,

ener, my heart sings along, and I find

but he wanted to pursue something “more

contentment in the realization that the

in line with enjoyment,” he says. “I’ll die

tradition—oft-deemed a dying trade—

active because that’s just me. And I enjoy

is, thankfully, not yet extinct.

what I do—I really do. It gives me a con-

The well-worn hands that hold the

nection with people. I don’t want to come

knife belong to John Cruthirds, and ev-

home and sit and do nothing.”

ery so often, he runs tender fingertips

Instead, he perfected the skill of knife

across the glinting edge to feel the angle

sharpening, and now he’s the go-to guy

and the overall balance of the blade and the handle. It’s a movement

for a few restaurant groups in Cedar Park, as well as chefs and

I’ve seen performed many times before, and while it’s skillful, it’s also

individuals across Austin. On the weekends, Cruthirds’ Assured

intuitive. A good knife sharpener knows the feel of a knife when it’s

Sharp booth provides market patrons at Cedar Park and Mueller

right. It takes Cruthirds about five minutes to find this perfection—

an opportunity to obtain the one thing every kitchen really needs.

depending, of course, on the size of the knife, its condition and how

“I don’t think people realize how badly they need their knives

much he’s talking to his customers as he works. “I want to make sure

sharpened,” he says, explaining that he receives high praise from

every knife is considered individually,” he says. “That’s where my

customers after they’ve sliced and diced with their newly honed

quality is. If I can’t put quality to every knife, I don’t want to do it.”

blade. He believes that every home probably has something, right

Matt Greer, executive chef of Stuffed Cajun Meat Market and

now, that needs sharpening—whether it’s a knife, a pair of scissors,

Specialty Foods in Cedar Park, takes it a step further, saying that

garden tools or food processor blades. “I know that,” he says with

Cruthirds actually cares about each and every knife. “He takes

assurance.

knives I’ve had for three years and turns them into brand new

Of course, he’s happy to sharpen anything, or at least try. In

blades,” Greer says. “I go through thousands of pounds of chicken

the past two years, he’s seen a host of unusual objects—everything

and pork every week here, so we use our knives heavily and they

from mangled spoons that got caught in a garbage disposal, to foot-

get beat up. But he makes ’em right every two weeks. Without

long samurai swords, to knives that look like something out of a

John, my job would be ten times harder.”

science fiction horror movie. “I’m always up for a sharpening chal-

Yet, unlike my father and many other knife sharpeners, Cruthirds

lenge,” he says. “I never know what’s going to walk up to my booth.”

didn’t start his working life in this trade, or with the benefit of a

He hopes, though, that it’s you and your knives. To find him, just

generations-old knife-sharpening lineage tracing back to early Italy

listen for the booth that’s singing with that distinctive, nostalgic hum.

EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

HEIRLOOM 2014

31

Clockwise from top left: Multicultural Refugee Coalition gardeners Pabitra Tiwari, Indra Ghimire, Dhan Rai, Chandra Chhetri.

32

HEIRLOOM 2014

EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

edible GARDENS

TURNING A NEW LEAF

BY E L I Z A B E T H W I N S LOW • P H OTO G RA P H Y BY T H O M AS W I N S LOW

W

hat would you do if you

supplementing insufficient food bene-

found yourself suddenly up-

fits with fresh, healthy produce and fo-

rooted from everyone and

cusing on crops of familiar foods from

everything you know, far from home

home, many varieties that are difficult

and family, in a new land with an unfa-

to find in the U.S.

miliar culture and a language not your

Because the plots at Festival Beach

own? Thousands of refugees arrive in

filled up quickly and because transpor-

the United States every day under just

tation to the community garden is chal-

such conditions—and adjusting to a

lenging from the apartment complexes

new home is more difficult than anyone

in North Austin where many of the MRC

who hasn’t done it can possibly imagine.

participants live, MRC Garden Program

In 2009, two Liberian refugees in

Manager Lindsey Hutchison began look-

Austin, Johnson Doe and Paul Tiah,

ing for space to expand the program

wanted to create a long-term support net-

closer to the MRC community center.

work for refugees being resettled here.

A contact in the MRC network knew

They met Meg Erskine at the Caritas of

a garden was being developed at nearby

Austin Community Advocacy Program

Lanier High School. The students there,

and Sarah Stranahan at an African Society

together with Julia Ricicar, the Future

of Austin meeting. Erskine and Stranahan,

Farmers of America coordinator at the

who were both involved with refugee ser-

school, had put together a grant aimed

vices, also had a desire to provide a lon-

at developing a school garden that ad-

ger-term support network for refugees,

dressed food access needs for the sur-

and the four began talking about what they could do together. Their

rounding community. MRC was a perfect match—its gardeners

conversations grew and evolved into the Multicultural Refugee

could immediately provide strong support and participation with

Coalition (MRC), which now provides both long-term community

a minimum of outreach and coordination from the group at Lanier.

and educational support to the hundreds of refugees resettled to

Now, 13 plots are being worked by MRC gardeners alongside the

Austin each year from Africa, Asia and Cuba.

student plots; participants also tend a flock of chickens for eggs,

MRC currently offers classes in English as a second language,

manage beehives and raise rabbits and pigs. Plans are underway for

computer literacy and career development, and also organizes a

construction of a shade structure, terraced garden plots to create

sewing group and a Global Kids Club. But it’s the gardening pro-

more space for growing food and bee habitat gardens to support

gram that offers the greatest opportunity for program participants

the hives.

to feel the most rooted in their new community.

Aside from simply providing connections to land where food can

At the same time that MRC was coming together, a new com-

be grown, Hutchison continues to grow the programming in what’s

munity garden—Festival Beach Community Garden—was under

now called the MRC New Leaf Refugee Agriculture Program. She

development. Since refugees had been asking for a place to grow

meets with the gardeners every other Saturday—bringing them re-

food, Erskine went to Austin’s Sustainable Food Policy Board to

sources they need and helping them plan for the changing seasons

ask about the potential for partnership. Community leadership at

and how to adapt their skills to the growing seasons and condi-

Festival Beach granted MRC some scholarship plots; these went

tions in Central Texas. She has recently added monthly educational

quickly, with many people ending up on a waiting list. Currently,

workshops to the program—offering in-depth knowledge of a par-

there are 24 plots in the MRC section at Festival Beach, with three

ticular topic, such as seed-saving, water conservation and organic

gardeners growing in scholarship plots in the larger community

growing practices—followed by the opportunity for further hands-

garden section. MRC gardeners grow food to feed their families—

on, guided practice the next month. In June and July, the gardeners EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

HEIRLOOM 2014

33

learned about seed-saving with Tim Miller, local dry-land farming

Public Classes Distance Learning Professional Chef Training

guru and owner of Millberg Farm. Miller demonstrated saving seeds from cucumbers and tomatoes using a quick fermentation method in water—a very different technique than Bhutanese gardeners had used in their homeland, where they dried the seeds within the fruit.

The gardeners enjoyed leaving the city limits for the day and connecting with a large-scale grower, being out in the fields and feasting on freshly harvested figs and tomatoes.

The MRC Farm Link program—a pilot project in partnership with Green Gate Farms—offers gardeners another opportunity to get out in the field. There, they participate in a work-share program—harvesting crops, planting seedlings and working in the greenhouses—

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in exchange for a box of fresh, seasonal produce from the farm. This enables them to supplement what their garden plots produce, connect with new friends in Austin and learn from experienced farmers.

In all, 55 people engage in the MRC gardening program, and 150 people are fed by the gardens. We visited the gardens at Lanier on an early fall day. The gardeners were busy tending late-season okra and eggplant and sharing ideas for what to plant for winter.

Everyone was excited about cooler-season crops—especially mus-

Lettuce help you grow your own!

tard greens, a favorite of gardeners from many different countries.

Bees buzzed lazily around us as the shadows grew longer. As we watched people from the community walking on the nearby track and heard kids laughing and hollering from the basketball court, gardeners gathered the day’s harvest from their plots and the sun began to settle lower on the peaceful scene. I asked Dilli, a gardener from Bhutan, why the MRC gardening program was important to him. He smiled and said “Finally, I can think about myself again.”

BHUTANESE GUNDRUK (FERMENTED LEAFY GREENS) MRC gardeners from all over the globe enjoy mustard greens, but the Bhutanese and the Congolese make especially good use of them.

Makes several servings, depending on how it’s used

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HEIRLOOM 2014

CONGOLESE BRAISED MUSTARD GREENS Serves 4

Culinary herbs for chefs— and fruit trees, veggies and native plants for gardeners

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Wash, dry and shred 1 bunch of mustard greens (or other leafy greens) into thin ribbons with a sharp knife. Pack into an earthenware crock, cover with warm water and leave to ferment for 6 days at cool room temperature (about 70°). Gundruk offers abundant probiotics and minerals to a traditional diet consisting primarily of starchy grains and roots. With a flavor similar to sauerkraut, the Bhutanese enjoy it as a condiment to rice, or as an appetizer or side dish.

11726 Manchaca

EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

2 T. palm oil 1 onion, chopped 1 15-oz. can chopped tomatoes, drained and further chopped 1 bunch mustard greens (or collard greens or spinach), chopped Sauté the onion in palm oil until it begins to color slightly. Add the tomatoes and greens, then cover and cook until tender—approximately 5 minutes.

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edible AGRICULTURE

RICE IN TEXAS

BY M M PAC K

rice into Spain in the 8th century and to Sicily in the 10th century.

The second major rice species (Oryza glaberrima) was first cultivated about 3,500 years ago in the Niger River delta on the coast of West Africa. Although this species never spread too extensively from its origin, rice was an important crop in coastal West Africa, and the rice-growing skills of West Africans from the “Rice Coast” were instrumental to the success of rice in the New World.

Rice arrived in the Caribbean islands from Europe in the early 16th century, and Spanish colonizers brought Asian rice to Mexico in the 1520s through the port of Veracruz. In what is now the United States, the first rice appeared in 1609, with a trial planting (that failed) in Virginia. Asian rice was introduced to Charleston, South Carolina, in 1685 via a ship from Madagascar (an island off the east coast of Africa colonized by Malaysians); rice cultivation was well established in the Carolinas by the 1690s.

However, early French and British colonists of the region knew nothing about growing and processing rice. Those who did know were the slaves that American colonists imported from West Africa, where rice cultivation had been practiced for thousands of years. Africans from the Rice Coast of Senegambia and Sierra Leone—because of their invaluable rice skills and experience—brought the highest prices in the slave markets of Charleston.

Asian rice for Northern European colonists on plantations in the American South. Rice was a highly labor-intensive crop, and all

F

processes—planting, irrigating, harvesting, drying, winnowing or much of the world’s population, especially in Asia, rice

and milling—were performed by human hands.

is the most widely eaten staple food. Forty percent of hu-

By the mid-18th century, rice cultivation had become one of

mans—mostly in populous, less developed countries—de-

America’s most important businesses—primarily in South Caroli-

pend on rice as their major source of calories and energy. Hun-

na and Georgia. This continued for the next 100 years, until after

dreds of varieties of rice are grown in a variety of climates and

the Civil War when rice production there dwindled because of

terrains across the globe. Throughout history, rice has fed cities

several converging factors: There was no more slave labor to per-

and armies, supported empires and rural populations, and com-

form the work; a series of devastating hurricanes hit the region;

manded mythical and religious significance. In many cultures,

and the soil was overworked and depleted. By the turn of the 20th

rice has been a symbol of fertility (that’s why we throw rice at

century, the rice industry in those states was essentially dead.

weddings) and in several Asian languages, the greeting “How are you?” translates literally as “Have you had rice?”

Genetic evidence shows that domesticated Asian rice (Oryza sativa) originated in the Pearl River valley in Southern China between

However, during this same period, growing rice commercially became increasingly important in Louisiana, Texas and Arkansas, and later, in Northern California and Mississippi. These remain the rice-growing regions in the United States today.

8,000 and 13,000 years ago. Cultivation spread from China to Southeast and South Asia, and westward across India. The Middle East

Rice in Texas

acquired rice by 1000 B.C., and Moslem conquerors brought Asian

The first record of rice in Texas is from 1828, found in docu-

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HEIRLOOM 2014

EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

Grains of Rice, courtesy of Museum of the Gulf Coast, Port Arthur, Texas

By 1700, West African slaves were growing and processing

There is a great industry in Southeast Texas that is just beginning to grow and become one of the richest crops in the State—and that is rice. –Galveston News, Dec 10, 1901 ments from the Austin Colony—the initial Anglo settlement in the northernmost Mexican province, Coahuila y Tejas. Mary Austin Holley, cousin to Stephen F. Austin and a tireless documenter of early Anglo-Texas days, wrote in 1836 (the year of Texas’ independence from Mexico), “Rice is already produced in considerable quantities….”

This early Texas rice cultivation was primitive. Small plots were plowed with oxen or mules, seed was planted by hand, and the yield

A

t the turn of the 20th century, one of the groups enticed to Texas to grow rice were the Japanese. In the early

1900s, Japanese immigrants initiated at least 30 large-scale, communal efforts to farm rice on the coastal plains around Houston and Beaumont.

was harvested with sickles, winnowed in baskets and milled by

In 1902, the Japanese Consul General in New York City was

heavy mortar and pestle—essentially the same practices followed in

looking for opportunities for Japanese to settle in the United

Asia and Africa for millennia. Since the settlers depended solely on

States. At the same time, railroad companies and local boost-

rainfall and not irrigation or managed flooding, the crop was known

ers were actively soliciting new settlers to come farm on the

as “Providence Rice.” If Providence sent rain, there was a crop. If

Texas “Rice Coast.” The Consul successfully campaigned in

not, not. By the 1850s, however, significant acreage was devoted to

Japan for businessmen to immigrate to Texas and invest in

irrigated rice production in the southeast part of the state; these Texas

the land and heavy equipment required for commercial rice

rice plantations were worked by slaves until after the Civil War.

farming. A 1904 New York Times headline declared, “Japanese

Rice cultivation improved in the 1880s thanks to the introducHauling rice in South Texas, by John Bertrand, courtesy of The University of Houston Digital Library

JAPANESE RICE IN TEXAS

tion of wells, canal systems, irrigation pumps, milling machinery

After Texas Rice Lands; Believe There is a Great Future for the Industry There.”

and the post-Civil War expansion of railroads to take crops to

Among these early Japanese impresarios were a banker, a

market. Land was cheap and suitable for rice, and this attracted

journalist, a wine merchant, a tea merchant, several former

immigrants from the grain-producing areas of the Midwest. They

military officers and a prominent politician who was also a

brought with them combines and mechanized agricultural practices

university president. To establish their enterprises, they

that had been developed for wheat, but worked just as well for rice.

brought Japanese farmers with them who actually knew how

By 1900, Texas and Louisiana together produced 99 percent of the

to grow rice. Two of the most well-known Japanese commu-

commercial rice crop in the U.S.

nities were the Saibara settlement in Webster, just outside of

Beginning around 1900, there was a concerted effort by rail-

Houston, and the Kishi Colony near Beaumont.

road companies, chambers of commerce, and local land boosters

Before coming to Texas in 1903, Seito Saibara was not only

to encourage Midwesterners and other immigrants (see sidebar,

a lawyer and president of two universities; he was also the first

Japanese Rice in Texas) to move to Texas and grow more rice. The

Christian elected to the Japanese House of Representatives.

Santa Fe Railroad, for example, advertised “Homeseeker’s Excur-

Inspired by the economic potential of the Texas rice lands,

sions to Texas and The Rice Belt” from Kansas City and St. Louis

he purchased 1,000 acres in Harris County and commenced

at “greatly reduced rates.” The Texas Rice Coast was described as

growing rice with about 30 farmers and their families. Saibara’s

a paradise of inexpensive, fertile land, abundant water and temper-

descendants continued farming rice into the 1970s.

ate climate, where fortunes could be made growing two crops of rice per year for the world’s markets.

Kichimatsu Kishi, formerly a Japanese army officer, had inspected farmland in California, Mississippi and the Carolinas

The immigrants came and the rice fields flourished. In 1912, Texas

before purchasing 3,500 acres in Texas’ Orange County in

A&M University and the U.S. Department of Agriculture jointly es-

1907. By 1908, he and his initial 15 tenant farmers harvested

tablished The Beaumont Cooperative Rice Experiment Station, which

their first rice crop. The Kishi Colony continued to grow and

remains one of the premier rice research facilities in the world today.

thrive; the farmers were well-educated and most brought

By 1915, there were big rice mills in Port Arthur, Beaumont, Orange

wives and families from Japan. The rice crops were very suc-

and Houston. Texas-milled rice traveled to local markets by railroad,

cessful until 1912, when salt water contaminated their irriga-

and on to global markets via the seaports of Houston and Galveston.

tion source. Kishi and his farmers switched to vegetables, fruit orchards and cattle, and continued farming until the 1930s.

The commercial rice industry in Texas always depended heavily on international markets; it thrived until there were major market slumps after World War I and later during the Great Depression of the 1930s. World War II brought a resurgence, and the world’s demand for rice continues.

Today, Texas is the fifth largest rice-producing state, after Arkansas, Mississippi, Louisiana and California. The current major rice-producing counties in Texas are Colorado, Wharton and Matagorda, which generate around 60 percent of the Texas rice crop. According to the USA Rice Federation, Texas rice production and processing adds $200 million per year to the state’s economy.

Significantly for the state’s rice industry, the Japanese set-

Traditionally, Texas rice farmers have irrigated their fields with

tlers introduced a new variety of rice to the region. The em-

water from one of the Texas rivers that traverses the state northwest

peror of Japan gave 300 pounds of Shinriki (“God power”) seed

to southeast and empties into the Gulf of Mexico—the Brazos and

rice to Texas; this was a hardy and disease-resistant strain that

Colorado Rivers in particular. This is accomplished by a complex net-

outperformed the varieties already present. Because of this

work of canals and pumps, along with the use of reservoirs and wells.

superior variety and because they quickly adopted the latest

In the 1930s, the state created the Highland Lakes on the upper

technologies, Japanese growers were able to double and triple

Colorado River to store water for use by the upriver cities like Aus-

their crop yields per acre, which influenced how the rest of

tin, and for agricultural irrigation and industrial purposes downriver

the state farmed rice.

toward the Gulf. Rice farmers were enthusiastic supporters of this

Although there were some failures, most of the Japanese

system; they realized the benefits of flood control and water reserved

rice farms flourished in Texas until after World War I when

for drought years. The body that governs the water allocation among

the bottom fell out of the world rice market. The growers’ finan-

users is the Lower Colorado River Authority (LCRA). (All the river

cial prospects did not improve with the Great Depression that

waters in Texas are controlled by similar authorities, answerable to

began in 1929.

the Texas Commission on Environmental Quality.)

At the same time, the political situation worsened for

Since they were established, the Highland Lakes reserves have

Japanese-Americans in the United States. Although Japanese

been adequate for all purposes, and LCRA has released water from the

settlers at first were welcomed by the government and by their

lakes downriver every year. That is, until 2012. As the multiyear Texas

Texas neighbors (much more so than their counterparts in

drought has become increasingly serious, the water level of the lakes

California), they weren’t able to become naturalized citizens,

has dropped to a frightening 34 percent of normal capacity, while the

and by the 1920s, anti-Japanese discrimination had reared its

water demands of ever-growing cities have increased exponentially

ugly head. In 1921, the Texas legislature passed the Alien Land

(for example, Austin’s water use tripled between 1970 and 2010).

Law that banned foreign immigrants from purchasing any

In 2012, 2013 and now 2014, LCRA has declined to release water

more land, and in 1924, the U.S. Congress passed legislation

downriver for irrigation. Similar scenarios are playing out on the

that closed further Japanese immigration into the country.

Brazos and other Texas rivers. This has set up heated and emo-

Economic and social prospects for Japanese-Americans

tional conflicts of interest between upriver cities and downstream

seriously diminished with the outbreak of World War II. Fol-

rice farmers. It’s a textbook example of the competing demands

lowing Pearl Harbor, the federal government set up internment

in a state that traditionally has been agricultural and is becoming

camps across the western U.S., and three camps were estab-

increasingly urban and industrialized.

lished in Texas, where up to 6,000 Japanese-Americans were

The drought and lack of irrigation water for three years running

imprisoned for the duration of the war. However, most of those

have had serious effects on the state’s rice industry. Not only has

interned there were not Texas residents; they were transported

the impact been far-reaching for farmers and their employees, but

from California and other parts of the country. There were few-

for related businesses such as equipment vendors and rice mills as

er than 500 Japanese-Texans at the time; while their lives were

well. Ronald Gertson, a fourth-generation rice farmer in Wharton

made difficult during the war, most did not go to the camps, and

County and an advocate for rice farmers’ water issues, has said that

some of the families’ children served in the U.S. armed forces.

crop insurance is becoming less available each year. On the posi-

Although most of the Japanese rice farmers sold out or

tive side, farmers are using laser-leveled fields for more precise ir-

converted to truck farming, some rice farms continued to

rigation and building permanent levees to capture rainwater. Some

function as late as 1979. Today there are no longer any active

are trying alternate crops—such as soybeans and sorghum—and

Japanese-owned rice farms in Texas, but descendants of these

pastureland, although the clay soils ideal for growing rice are less

early farm families populate the Gulf Coast, primarily in ur-

suitable for other crops.

ban areas. Several organizations work to document and pre-

So what are the long-term prospects for rice in Texas? Is this

serve the family histories of the early Japanese settlers who

crop—fundamental to the development of the state for more than a

had such a marked effect on the rice industry in Texas.

Planting Time on a Japanese Rice Farm Near Houston Texas, courtesy of Houstorian blog

Texas Rice and Texas Water

century—going to just fade away from lack of water? There aren’t

said. Research projects around the world are breeding strains of

any easy answers, but Dr. Ted Wilson, director of the Texas A&M

rice that require less water and developing new methods to grow

AgriLife Research and Extension Center in Beaumont and a world

them. Texas rice-growing counties are slowly developing down-

authority on rice production and research, thinks otherwise.

stream reservoirs to store irrigation water. Perhaps in the future,

In a panel about rice at the Foodways Texas Symposium this

water desalination processes will become financially viable. Also,

past March at Texas A&M University, Wilson was cautiously op-

as Gertson has pointed out, rice farmers are a tenacious lot. “If and

timistic that the industry could weather this drought crisis. “But

when water does become available again, there will be folks left

there will have to be many changes in the way we grow rice,” he

here to utilize it for rice production.”

THE STORY OF UNCLE BEN’S CONVERTED RICE

W

hat do a German scientist, an unknown

troops. Since Harwell was the only entrepreneur who

East Texas rice farmer, a U.S. Army quar-

grasped the importance of the process, Huzenlaub and

termaster, a maître d’ in a Chicago club and an

Mars moved to Houston and partnered with him, and

international candy manufacturer all have in

in 1942, Harwell’s Converted Rice was born.

common? The answer is Uncle Ben’s Converted

After successful demonstrations to the Army

Rice—a product that changed the way U.S. troops were fed during

Quartermasters Corps, the trio opened the initial converted

World War II. It was developed in 1942 by a Texas company that went

rice plant in Houston in 1944. The sole customer was the U.S.

on to become one of the largest rice producers on the world market.

military, which bought all the rice the plant could produce and

For many consumers since the mid-20th century, rice has

helped finance a bigger facility. In August 1944, Time Magazine

meant Uncle Ben’s Converted Rice in a box graced by a smiling,

described the “vitaminized, weevil-proof rice for G.I.s,” stating

older African-American man wearing a bowtie. Into the 1980s,

that the new plant would produce 25 to 30 million pounds per

the company commanded a full quarter of the U.S. market for dry

year for the army. The research director of the Quartermasters

rice, and its products currently are sold in more than 100 coun-

Corps called converted rice “one of the most significant scien-

tries. Although a subsidiary of the far-flung Mars, Incorporated

tific developments of World War II.”

conglomerate, and with its rice production plants now in Missis-

Like many food enterprises developed to support the military,

sippi, the company’s headquarters remain in Houston where the

after the war ended, Harwell’s rice company had lots of product

tale of converted rice first unfolded.

and manufacturing processes in place—and no customers. In 1947,

The story begins in 1930s London where a German biochemist

Harwell turned his formidable energy toward creating a civilian

named Erich Huzenlaub developed a process to improve the nutri-

market. Since Americans outside the coastal South traditionally

tion and shelf life of white rice. In this process, cleaned, unhulled

were not big rice eaters, he needed a story to convince the public

rice is put in a vacuum tank where the air is sucked from the grains.

that converted rice was tasty, nutritious, quick and easy.

High-pressure hot water containing water-soluble B vitamins is

Prior to the war, one of the small-scale products Harwell bro-

then forced into the grains and steam is applied to seal them. Once

kered was something called Uncle Ben’s Plantation Rice—pre-

dried, the rice is milled to remove the husks, leaving smooth, hard-

sumably named to evoke the role that African-Americans played

ened kernels (now impervious to insects) whose nutrients can’t

in the South’s rice production. The titles “Uncle” and “Aunt”

be rinsed away. However, surface starch is removed from the “con-

were long used by Southern whites to address older people of

verted” rice, allowing grains to remain separate when cooked.

color (e.g., Aunt Jemima, Uncle Remus).

Huzenlaub patented his process and began to pursue mar-

The story Harwell told (and Mars, Incorporated still tells to-

keting. Serendipitously, Forrest E. Mars (scion of the American

day) is that an African-American farmer outside Houston grew

candy family) was in Europe searching for new food manufac-

award-winning rice of such quality that other growers aspired

turing opportunities. The two found one another and, in 1941,

to match “Uncle Ben’s” rice. Purportedly, by the time Harwell

Mars became part owner of the patent.

was branding his converted rice, Uncle Ben was deceased, and

Meanwhile, in Houston, an enterprising food broker named

his surname (and any other facts about him) was lost to history.

Gordon L. Harwell was also convinced that white rice nutrition

Harwell adopted Uncle Ben’s as the reassuring name for his

could be improved by pre-milling processing. Although not a sci-

converted rice products. But what to do for a logo? As the story

entist, he performed parboiling experiments with a pressure cook-

goes, Harwell was dining with advertising guru Leo Burnett at the

er in his garage. Then he learned of Huzenlaub’s work and began

Tavern Club in Chicago; their brainstorm was to ask the club’s

pursuing him relentlessly. However, Huzenlaub had bigger fish to

maître d’ to pose as Uncle Ben. This facet of the story is verifi-

fry; he was visiting major rice millers in Louisiana, Arkansas and

able—the man’s name was Frank C. Brown. When Brown died in

Mississippi to solicit backers for his process.

1953, a New York Times marketing columnist noted his role in the

As it happened, none of the big players understood the potential

Uncle Ben’s story and described his long career in various Chi-

of converted rice, even though World War II had started and the U.S.

cago restaurants. Harwell trademarked Brown’s image as Uncle

was mounting full-press efforts to efficiently and nutritiously feed the

Ben, and it remains the company’s logo today.

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“We’d drive up from our San Gabriel Avenue ‘college estate’ at two or three in the morning to watch them roll off the assembly line into the hot oil. We’d get them as soon as they came out. You could squish a whole donut into about a square inch. We would each eat about six. Yummmmmm.”

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edible LATE NIGHT

THE CIRCLE, DELICIOUS AND UNBROKEN

BY L ES M C G E H E E • P H OTO G RA P H Y BY D UST I N M EY E R

T

he multisensory siren song calls like a spinning Julie

epiphanic, predawn donut experience. Then they close at noon,

Andrews on a nearby Alp. You are defenseless, pulled

rest up and do it all over again. On this particular evening, the

north, past the campus and up to Airport Boulevard.

inside of Mrs. J’s vibrates with energy like the atom we were in

Ladies and gentlemen, get out of the way—in a Holy Grail not

awe of the year this supreme donutarium opened in 1948. Anx-

much bigger than the real Holy Grail, it’s 8:39 p.m., the magic red

ious customers nod, offer knowing glances and rhythmically pace

beacon has been lit and hot donuts are coming off the line at Mrs.

around the space. There’s no shame; we all know why we’re here.

Johnson’s Bakery (“Mrs. J’s,” if you’re a regular).

We need a fix. Luckily, we’ll all leave happy and serviced, often

“8:39 p.m.” is not a typo. As if your own grandma was blessing

with a complimentary Mrs. J’s piping-hot glazed donut placed

your perhaps questionable nocturnal activities, Mrs. Johnson’s

atop the box cradling our warm stash…“a little something for the

opens in the late evenings, and bakes fresh donuts for the des-

ride home,” the staff will say.

sert hour, the midnight snack hour, again for bar-closing time and

Make no mistake, this IS your daddy’s donut. And probably your

even later for those scuttling across dark parking lots needing an

granddaddy’s, too, if you’re from a longtime Austin family. Once a EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

HEIRLOOM 2014

51

“They used to have an

“By far the best, pure

aerial photo on the wall

donut in town! I have

that was taken by a pilot

plenty of times (perhaps

landing at the old Austin

a little tipsy) stopped

airport. One of the ap-

there late-night. I pick

proaches passed right

up a couple dozen for

over the shop, and the

my kids to have a treat

pilots said they looked for

before school the next

the red ‘HOT DONUTS’

morning. It never hurts

sign to be lit as they landed.

that they give you that

They would stop by for

warm donut for the ride

donuts when they left the

home. Sticky

airport.”

goodness.”

baking empire with multiple locations, production centers,

noticing is the smoked salt we bake on the kolache.”

pies, cakes and big contracts like AISD schools (take that,

Expect a few other surprises from Mrs. J’s, Austin. “We’re down

healthy breakfast program), Mrs. Johnson’s is now whittled

with crazy donuts, yet we’re also purists,” says Kazal-Thresher.

down to this one beloved store with a highly concentrated, ach-

“We should be making pies and cookies by Thanksgiving. And

ingly devout fan base. One such fan over the years has been

for the pumpkin pie, we’ll use roasted, real, local pumpkins.”

the locally lauded noodle czar Freddy Lee of Michi Ramen on

But don’t forget to make those donuts, y’all. Lots and lots of do-

North Lamar. The story goes that as soon as Lee came to

nuts. “You just never know who will show up,” says Cassaro. “At

Austin years ago to attend the University of Texas and major

two a.m. recently, a bicyclist came up the drive-thru and said,

in economics, he checked into his college apartment, promptly

‘I am one of many.’ Then, over a hundred bicyclists showed up

went to Mrs. J’s and never stopped thinking about it. Around

on a full-moon ride.”

1980, two employees, Sarah and Greg Patel, bought the bakery

Truth be told, though, the folks at Mrs. J’s know exactly

and have been steadily at the helm for more than 30 years. Re-

who will show up—the steady stream of musicians, bar pa-

cently, though, Lee persuaded the Patels to let him shepherd

trons, comedians, audience members, late-night snackers,

the business anew—to honor the traditional recipes and try to

weirdos and night owls that always have; appreciated old and

restore the shop to its ’60s glory, when more Austinites knew

new faces who’ve sought thousands upon thousands of hot

it for birthday cakes than for donuts. Of course, he promised

donuts for over 66 years. It’s the only place in town that an-

to protect and remain true to the original donut recipes and

swers the question: “Who deserves a donut?” And if there’s a

to make sure that the method and recipe for the classic glazed

more joyful or satisfying purchase one can make for 65 cents

remained unchanged, just as the adoring throngs would expect.

in the middle of the night, we’d sure like to know what that

One of the first things Lee did was turn over the baking reins to Head Baker John Cassaro and Production Manager Aubrie Kazal-Thresher. The duo knows what Austinites love about Mrs. Johnson’s donuts, and not just the famous

might be.

Quotes included in this article are on-the-spot feedback from happy, longtime customers.

glazed ones. “Simple favorites like our strawberry icing, Bavarian cream and apple fritters are made from the best products we can get,” says Cassaro. “We’re going to grow the business, yet we know we’re standing on the shoulders of tradition.” Cassaro then parades out a popular new item: the barbecue kolache. “We get the brisket from Johnny T’s in Pflugerville,” he says. “That other unique flavor you’re

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EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

“We used to go there in the ’80s after a night out. Then go across the street and sit on the railing by the school and eat warm donuts.”

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53

cooking FRESH

JACK ALLEN’S KITCHEN Recipes from Jack Allen’s Kitchen: Celebrating the Taste of Texas (Copyright © 2014 by Jack Gilmore) used by permission of the author.

Images by Kenny Braun. Distributed by the University of Texas Press. For more information visit www.utexaspress.com

O

n Saturday mornings, you’ll find me at the farmers market.

Actually, I go to a few of them throughout town. Most open at 9 a.m., and I’m usually standing right at the entrance by

8:45. At opening time, I move through the tents as if it were a timed competition. In some ways, it is. I’m not the only chef in Austin who likes to get an early jump on the best picks of the weekend.

Plus, if you don’t get there early enough, you have to compete with the general public, who are also hoping to find great ingredients.

I carry a roll of cash and four or five checks. When I first started doing this, I took more time, making a point to get to know each of the farmers who brought in the ripe heirloom tomatoes, the ears of sweet summer corn, and the heads of lush leafy greens.

But now, it’s about getting the best of what I can, so that I can move to the next market. Nowadays I know the farmers and they know me. I know their spouses, their kids, even some of their pets. I’ve been to most of their farms and seen the great effort they put into their market tents each week.

When I’m making my rounds through the market, the farmers often know the bulk of what I want and have set it aside for me.

That takes some of the thrill out of shopping, but realistically, they know I have more than 800 people to feed at my restaurants on any given day, and they know that Saturday mornings are short when you have a bounty of ingredients to sift through.

Each season brings a lot of the same ingredients from tent to tent. In summer you see squash, tomatoes, watermelon, peppers, and corn. In fall and winter, it’s leafy greens, carrots, Brussels sprouts, and radishes. In spring, you find asparagus and green garlic, and I love to get my hands on the very first strawberries.

•• By the time I have visited a few markets, my truck is full, my head spins with ideas for seasonal specials, the Texas sun is higher and blazing heat onto the market tents, and beads of sweat have formed along my brow.

I nod a few goodbyes to my farming friends and make my exit, knowing that our kitchen will probably see many of them later on.

I tell every one that if they get stuck with produce at the end of market, knock on our back door. They know we’ll put it to good use and we’ll take care of them.

And in return, they always take care of us. That’s how it was more than 100 years ago in upstart agricultural communities, and that’s what we hope to preserve at Jack Allen’s Kitchen. —Jack Gilmore 54

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MEATLOAF WITH WILD MUSHROOM GRAVY AND CARAMELIZED ONION SAUCE Serves 8–10 Meatloaf is just a homestyle dish you can’t escape. But it can be really good or really bad. I like to get a good mixture of ground chuck and ground pork. You need a ground chuck with about 20 percent fat. You don’t want to go too lean or it gets dry. Turkey meatloaf is fine, but it’s just dry—and kinda boring. Ours is real moist, and we kick it off with Creole mustard, Tabasco, Worcestershire, onions and green garlic. We’ll put ketchup on it, because you just have to, but the gravy we make really sets it off. The other thing is, cook it quick, at about 400°, to get it crispy. It has to be a perfect loaf—about 4 inches across and 2 inches high. That way it gets just the right consistency.

For the meatloaf: 1 c. finely chopped celery stalks ¾ c. finely chopped red bell peppers ¾ c. finely chopped onion 2 lb. ground chuck, 20% fat 1 lb. ground pork 3 eggs 2 T. Creole mustard 1 T. Worcestershire sauce 2 T. roasted garlic (see recipe at right) 1 t. cayenne pepper 1 T. Kosher salt 1¼ c. breadcrumbs 3 dashes Tabasco sauce 2 T. Paprika ½ c. ketchup, plus 1 cup for topping Preheat oven to 375°. In large stainless-steel bowl, with hands thoroughly combine all ingredients up to and including ½ cup ketchup. Form uniform loaf on baking pan, approximately 2½ inches high, leaving space around edges. Drizzle 1 cup ketchup on meatloaf, and bake 25 to 30 minutes, until golden brown. Serve meatloaf slices topped with gravy.

For the wild mushroom gravy: 3 c. diced (bite-size pieces) wild mushrooms, your favorite ¼ c. butter 4 c. Caramelized Onion Sauce (see recipe at right) In saucepan, sauté mushrooms in butter until tender. Add Caramelized Onion Sauce and cook on medium heat approximately 5 minutes.

A WINTER MENU À LA JAK Meatloaf with Wild Mushroom Gravy and Caramlized Onion Sauce Grilled Brussels Sprouts with Balsamic Syrup Cauliflower Couscous Black-Bottom Pecan Sweet Potato Pie Pumpkin Spice Butter Rum 56

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ROASTED GARLIC Makes 1½ cups The cool thing about garlic is that after you roast it, it gets creamy and becomes a whole new ingredient. Roasting makes the flavor milder compared with straight garlic, which can be a little sharp and spicy—still a choice option for certain dishes. If you’re going to put the time into roasting some, do a few cups. Then jar it in a good olive oil, and it should last a few weeks refrigerated. You can use it with anything, from dressings and mashed potatoes to steaks or chicken right off the grill, or even on a good bread for garlic toast.

4 c. garlic cloves, peeled Water, to cover Preheat oven to 375°. Stack garlic in small casserole dish slightly covered with water. Bake approximately 45 minutes.

Note: Garlic can be refrigerated and used for up to 4 weeks.

CARAMELIZED ONION SAUCE Makes approximately 2½ quarts We use this as a sauce for steak and in a gravy for meatloaf. Many people don’t realize onions are naturally sweet.

They’re full of sugar. To caramelize them, you chop them really well and cook them low and slow with a little bit of olive oil. You want them to get really brown and golden. And when you add broth or wine, it pretty much dissolves but leaves so much flavor. If you cook the sauce right, it looks like a good demi-glace. The key is not to rush it or walk away from it for too long. You have to be on top of the stove and have at least 2 hours to do it.

2 lb. white onions, julienned ¼ c. vegetable oil ¹/³ cup apple cider vinegar 3 qt. beef broth (homemade or boxed) ½ c. honey 3 T. cornstarch 3 T. water Salt and pepper to taste In large skillet or braising pan on low, caramelize onions in oil for 1½ hours, stirring every 5 minutes. Look for deep brown color but not burnt. Deglaze with vinegar for approximately 3 minutes, then using handheld mixer, purée. Return to skillet, add broth and simmer for approximately 30 minutes, skimming as needed.

Add honey, and simmer for approximately 20 minutes. In small bowl, make cornstarch slurry, stir into pot and cook 5 minutes.

Season to taste. Sauce may be frozen in small batches.

GRILLED BRUSSELS SPROUTS Serves 4–6 2 pts. Brussels sprouts, outer leaves removed 1 T. salt ¼ c. olive oil 1 medium onion, quartered ½ T. black pepper ½ T. kosher salt ¼ c. Dijon mustard 2 T. sherry vinegar 2 T. olive oil In saucepan, cover Brussels sprouts with water, add salt, and bring to boil; remove immediately and strain. In stainless-steel bowl, combine oil, onion, and seasonings with Brussels sprouts.

On prepared grill, grill until completely charred, turning for even cooking. (I recommend a perforated grill pan, and use it

like you’re stir-frying sprouts on the grill.) For Dijon vinaigrette, in stainless-steel bowl, whisk together mustard, vinegar, and oil.

Add Brussels sprouts and toss. To serve, place on a platter and drizzle with Balsamic Syrup (see recipe below).

BALSAMIC SYRUP Makes 2 jars 1 c. red wine (your favorite leftover wine) 1 c. red wine vinegar 1 c. orange juice 1 c. sugar In stainless-steel saucepan, bring all ingredients to a boil, then lower heat to low and reduce until thickened and approximately 1¾ cups remain; allow to cool. Syrup can be refrigerated and used for up to 4 weeks.

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CAULIFLOWER COUSCOUS Serves 6–8 This is a lot simpler than it sounds. Anytime you chop cauliflower, you end up with all these tiny little bits left behind.

To me it looks like couscous. So we decided to just shave the whole thing, add some olive oil, salt, and pepper, and serve it as a side like couscous. We don’t even cook it but just let it marinate for a few hours to meld the flavors. It’s delicious and really healthy for you.

1 head cauliflower, shaved to the size of uncooked rice ¾ c. olive oil ¼ c. sherry vinegar ½ c. green onion, chopped, both green and white parts ¾ c. black olives, chopped ¼ c. capers ½ c. roasted red pepper, chopped (store-bought is fine) 1 c. feta cheese, crumbled Salt and pepper to taste

BLACK-BOTTOM PECAN SWEET POTATO PIE Makes 2 pies

Mix together all ingredients and let stand at least 5 hours before using.

PUMPKIN SPICE BUTTER RUM Makes 1 drink

If it sounds like this pie includes everything but the kitchen sink, that’s because it does. You have people who love choc-

A traditional holiday cocktail that you don’t see much any-

olate pie, pecan pie, and sweet potato pie (or pumpkin, if you

more, hot-buttered rum needed a comeback with a little touch

would rather use that). This is our way of pleasing everyone.

of Jack Allen’s. I did it, once again with the help of Treaty

Serve it warm or at room temperature, but I honestly like

Oak Distilling’s Barrel Reserve Rum, an aged rum. And we

it chilled because the chocolate has a thicker texture, which

don’t use just any butter; we use Pumpkin Spice Butter. It’s a

layers with the creamy sweet-potato filling and the crunchy

comforting after-dinner drink for the holiday season, or just

pecans—the best in layered texture and flavors.

sip it to warm up on those eight cold days each year we have here in Texas!

6 eggs 1½ c. dark corn syrup 1½ c. brown sugar ½ t. salt 2 T. dark rum 1½ c. sweet potato, canned (look for organic) 1 T. vanilla extract (not imitation) ½ c. butter, melted 1½ c. chocolate chips 3 c. pecan halves 2 pie crusts Whipped cream (for serving) Preheat oven to 335°. With mixer in mixing bowl, combine first 4 ingredients until smooth. Mix in rum, sweet potato, and vanilla.

Slowly add melted butter to mixture, and blend until smooth. Lay chocolate chips and pecans onto pie crust bottoms, and divide filling between pies. Place on sheet pan in oven, and bake for 35 to 45 minutes, until solid and golden brown. Serve at room temperature with dollop of whipped cream.

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Water Caramel, melted 2 T. JAK’s Pumpkin Spice Butter (see recipe below) 2 oz. Treaty Oak Barrel Reserve Rum Set water to boil. For garnish, dip rim of footed mug to coat in caramel. Add butter to mug and pour in rum to reach halfway in glass. Pour in boiling water to fill, stir and serve.

PUMPKIN SPICE BUTTER Makes 1½ cups 2 sticks (8 oz.) butter, softened 2 T. pumpkin purée 1 t. cinnamon ¼ t. ground nutmeg 2 T. brown sugar In mixing bowl, using handheld mixer, blend all ingredients well.

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behind THE VINES

STANDING THE TASTE OF TIME

BY T E R RY T H O M PSO N -A N D E RSO N A N D RUSS E L L K A N E • P H OTO G RA P H Y BY K N OXY

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F

all Creek Vineyards is celebrating the 35th anniversary of making its first wines, and although the winery is considered a pioneering force in establishing the Texas wine industry, it hasn’t

always been business as usual. In fact, it’s been anything but that. Like the beloved cypresses that line its allée entryway, the winery has grown and evolved, and has faced multiple challenges, setbacks and victories to become one of the most iconic destinations for Texas wine enthusiasts.

Situated at the northwestern edge of Lake Buchanan, Fall Creek Vineyards was founded by Ed and Susan Auler. Ed, a fourthgeneration Texan, graduated from the University of Texas School of Law in 1969 and took the reins of the family’s Fall Creek Ranch in Tow, Texas, in 1970. By 1973, Ed was looking for ways to make the ranch a more viable operation.

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The couple took a trip to France

aligning Texas winery laws with

to research French cattle breeds.

those of the major wine-producing

“We spent two days looking at

states. It was decades later when

cattle, and three weeks touring

the Texas Wine and Grape Growers

vineyards,” Ed says with a laugh.

Association lobbied to allow rural

“Somewhere around Bordeaux I

wineries to sell wines from their

began to realize how the topogra-

tasting rooms, no matter if the area

phy and soil were similar to those

was wet or dry. The feat required

on our ranch. I’d say they’re almost

an amendment to the state consti-

identical!”

tution, approved by Texas voters in

Ed went with the grapes—put-

2003. After its passage, the Texas

ting in an experimental plot of 13

wine industry grew rapidly—from

varieties, mostly French-American

42 wineries in 2000 to its present

hybrids. The vigor of the Vitis vi-

number of around 300 (50 in the

nifera (which included the classic

Texas Hill Country alone).

Bordeaux varieties) surprised him,

Ed’s early vision of the Texas Hill

and with the help of top Califor-

Country as a major new wine-pro-

nia growers and famous Beaulieu

ducing region also involved lobby-

Vineyard winemaker and enologi-

ing to get it accepted as an Ameri-

cal consultant André Tchelistcheff,

can Viticultural Area (AVA) by the

the Aulers planted more European

federal government. He realized

varieties. Fall Creek Vineyards be-

from his experiences in Europe

gan wine production in 1979.

that quality wines had a sense of

But not all of the harvests have

place—as defined by the Appella-

been good for the Aulers. In 1990,

tion d’Origine Contrôlée system in

an extended freeze killed their en-

France—and the establishment of

tire vineyard. The Aulers replanted

an AVA for the Hill Country would

with new vines, only to have them

offer these wines recognition for

succumb to Pierce’s Disease twice, predominantly because the disease

Ed and Susan Auler circa 1983. Photo courtesy of Ben Smusz.

their terroir. “There were three things I knew the federal govern-

was barely understood in Texas at the time. It was a costly lesson,

ment required if we were going to get the Hill Country accepted as

but Ed realized that a winery must diversify its sources of grapes,

an AVA,” says Ed. “First, I had to prove that the Texas Hill Country

leading him to build relationships with other growers.

was a recognized area. That was the easy part. All I had to do was de-

Most importantly, the Aulers had a big vision for what Texas Hill

fine its geographical boundaries and define its growing conditions. It

Country winemaking could become. Over time, Fall Creek Vineyards

was doable based on what I’d experienced as both a pilot and ranch-

continued to grow, and Ed gave up his private law practice to concen-

er in this area. I knew the borders were going to roughly be defined

trate on the winery, as well as to address pressing legal issues with-

as the boundaries of the Edwards Plateau.”

in the industry. He realized that the wine laws in Texas at that time

Then, the harder part came into focus. Ed had to present evidence

were written for an industry that didn’t exist. For example, it wasn’t

that the Hill Country was a recognized wine-producing area. This is

clear how wine could be made and marketed in rural parts of the state

where he got help from his wife, Susan. She worked with leading Tex-

where the sale of alcoholic beverages was prohibited. He either had

as chefs to get Texas wines on their wine lists and to feature them in

to get the laws changed or move his operation to a “wet” precinct. Ed

events around the country. She also founded the Texas Hill Country

worked with Dr. Bobby Smith, owner of La Buena Vida Vineyards in

Wine and Food Festival in 1986, and at the first one, three Texas win-

North Texas, who had the same problem. The two drafted a bill and

eries presented their wines: Bell Mountain Vineyards, Cypress Valley

presented it to the then-Texas House Speaker Billy Clayton.

Winery and Fall Creek Vineyards. There were also six wineries from

Leon Adams—considered to be the seminal American wine his-

California and one from Germany—paying homage to the Hill Coun-

torian—advised Auler that Texas legislators never vote against God,

try’s German ancestry. While the first event started small, the press

country, family or farming. Because growing grapes and small-scale

took note and eventually the area’s wineries won increasing nation-

wine production on family farms is such a strong tradition in Texas—

al attention. The resulting articles written about Texas Hill Country

going back to the 1800s—Auler and Smith thought their odds were

wineries and their wines gave Ed the last piece of evidence he needed

good to get something into legislation. Their bill was introduced in

to obtain approval for the Texas Hill Country AVA in 1991.

early 1977, and by June, it was passed as the Texas Farm Winery Act.

The Aulers aren’t content resting on their laurels, though. They

Signed by then-governor Dolph Briscoe, this new law allowed win-

strive to add even more elements that would carry Fall Creek wines

eries in dry areas to sell their wines in wet areas.

forward. Last year, after searching internationally for two years, Ed

Ed and Bobby’s vision and hard work started a long process of 62

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EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

and Susan brought Sergio Cuadra from Chile to be director of wine

Now open in The Hill Country Galleria!

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“The main thing is that here, ripening happens very quickly and, as a winemaker, I have to react more quickly to get the results I want.”

12800 Hill Country Blvd. Ste. G-130 Bee Cave, TX 78738

—Sergio Cuadra operations at Fall Creek. Cuadra had worked with the most successful Chilean wine companies—Viña Concha y Toro, Caliterra and Viña Errázuriz—and he came to Texas with a good bit of optimism, but his eyes were wide open. “I was concerned by the heat,” Cuadra says. “I know the effect high temperatures have on vines in Chile and in California. But, after tasting Texas wines and experiencing my first Texas harvest in 2013, I believe that something very interesting is happening here,” he says, “I believe that when grapevines are exposed to high temperatures over time, they activate something in their genes that allows them to not only survive, but to thrive and produce quality grapes and wine. The main thing is that here, ripening happens very quickly and, as a winemaker, I have to react more quickly to get the results I want.”

The synergy of Cuadra’s knowledge and Ed Auler’s winemaking skills speaks volumes for the future. Cuadra recently helped put the finishing touches on Fall Creek’s new GSM (grenache, syrah, Mourvèdre) blend made from Salt Lick Cellars grapes, and Cuadra’s first solo Texas wine—the 2013 Fall Creek Sauvignon Blanc made from grapes grown at Mesa Vineyards near Fort Stockton—was a double gold-medal winner at the 2014 Lone Star International Wine Competition. Of course,

A homegrown Austin original since 1938.

Ed Auler is still in charge of his signature wine: Fall Creek Meritus, a red Bordeaux blend, that continues to impress with a double gold medal in the 2013 Tasters Guild International Wine Competition.

Even after 35 years, new beginnings, opportunities and directions continue to unfold for the Aulers and Fall Creek Vineyards.

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63

edible PRESERVES

FERMENTING Excerpt from “Canning, Pickling and Freezing with Irma Harding,”

by Marilyn McCray, Octane Press

B

efore the advent of modern-day canning, food was preserved by the process of

fermentation. The simplest type of fermentation with naturally occur-

FERMENTING STEP-BY-STEP 1. Select nonmetallic containers or pickling crocks as described in the recipe. Clean jars, crocks and equipment to avoid harmful bacteria.

2. Chop all ingredients to desired consistency by hand or with a food processor.

3. Place ingredients in container and cover with brine or cover with water or whey according to the recipe.

4. Press down with a wooden spoon, lid or weight, adding more water to cover food. Fermentation causes bubbles, so leave 1–2 inches of headspace.

5. Select the correct lid or top for container. Cover tightly to eliminate all oxygen. Consult the recipe for the best fermenting time.

Hold at room temperature between 65°F and 72°F for the specified number of days before transferring to cold storage.

6. Skim any harmless white spots or film from the top.

7. Fill sterilized jar or container with fermented food and close.

Wipe off the jar, and store in the refrigerator. Consult recipe for maximum storage time. Mark container with contents and date.

ring yeasts or lactic acid was also called pickling. The Lactobacillus organisms convert lactose and other sugars present in the food into lactic acid. This creates an acidic environment that safely preserves the food and imparts classic tangy flavor. Sauerkraut, Korean kimchee and curtido from Latin America are produced with lactic acids. These traditionally fermented vegetables are salted, seasoned and placed in a container where they ferment.

TWO WAYS TO PROMOTE FERMENTATION • Soak vegetables in a brine that is salty enough to kill off harmful bacteria.

• Add 1 tablespoon of whey to each pint of food. Whey is the liquid separated from cultured milk or yogurt. It rises to the top or can be strained from yogurt through several layers of cheesecloth.

FERMENTING BASICS Select the freshest fruits, vegetables and meats. Wash food with cool, fresh water to remove any dirt and bacteria. Start in a large bowl.

Trim off any spots or blemishes. Cut out the core or pit. It is important to the fermentation process to prepare food in uniformly sized pieces according to the recipe.

EQUIPMENT • Knives, mandoline, peelers, zesters, cutting board • De-bubbler or nonreactive spatula • Standard-size mason canning jars (Ball- or Kerr-brand) • Wide-mouth mason jars for whole fruits and vegetables and jams and jellies • Regular mason jars for sliced fruits and vegetables and jams and jellies • Jelly jars for salsas, pesto, jams and jellies • Ceramic or stoneware pickling or fermenting crocks (lids optional) • Food-grade plastic and glass containers are excellent substitutes for stone crocks. Other 1- to 3-gallon nonfood-grade plastic containers may be used if lined with a clean food-grade plastic bag.

Caution: Be certain that foods contact only food-grade plastics.

Do not use garbage bags or trash liners.

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MINT CHUTNEY From Sally Fallon Morell, “Nourishing Traditions,” Washington, D.C. Makes 3 cups 2 c. fresh mint leaves 1 medium onion, peeled and coarsely chopped 4 cloves garlic, peeled and coarsely chopped 4 jalapeños, seeded and chopped

2 t. cumin seeds, toasted in oven 2 /³ c. crispy almonds, chopped 1 T. sea salt 4 T. whey 1 c. filtered water

Place all ingredients except salt, whey and water in food processor, and pulse a few times until finely chopped but not paste-like. Place in a quartsized, wide-mouth mason jar and press down lightly. Mix salt and whey with water and pour into jar, adding more water if necessary to cover the chutney. The top of the chutney should be at least 1 inch below the top of the jar. Cover tightly and keep at room temperature for 2 days before transferring to refrigerator. This should be eaten within 2 months.

JAPANESE SAUERKRAUT From Sally Fallon Morell, “Nourishing Traditions,” Washington, D.C. Makes 2 quarts 1 head Napa cabbage, cored and shredded 1 bunch green onions, chopped 2 T. naturally fermented soy sauce 2 T. fresh lemon juice 1 t. sea salt 2 T. whey (if not available, use an additional 1 t. salt) Traditionally, this kraut is made with a culture derived from rice bran, but whey serves an identical purpose and is more easily obtained. Place all ingredients in a bowl, mix well and pound with a wooden pounder or a meat hammer to release juices. Place in a quart-sized, wide-mouth mason jar and press down firmly with a pounder or meat hammer until juices come to the top of the cabbage. The top of the vegetables should be at least 1 inch below the top of the jar. Cover tightly and keep at room temperature for about 3 days before transferring to cold storage.

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HEIRLOOM 2014

65

N

o one told me how much of life is just saying goodbye.

Because I was on a plane today, and then on a bus, and some-

where in between the two, I saw the ghost of my face reflected back at me. And I thought: My God. I’m not a child anymore.

I’m not a kid.

I’m not even a teenager.

I’m somewhere.

Maybe close to being a woman, but still so, so far.

(It is a long way, to being a woman.)

And I realized all over again, that my sandbox sand castle days, and the shallow end of the swimming pool, and pretend, and not having hips, and going to piano lessons with my brother, and never doing laundry because my mom did it, and dolls, and falling in

CHICKEN AND RICE Adapted from Gourmet magazine Serves 6–8 For the chicken: 3 large garlic cloves 2 t. salt 2 T. distilled white vinegar 2 t. dried oregano 4 chicken breast halves with bone, halved crosswise 4 chicken drumsticks 4 chicken thighs Mince and mash the garlic and salt into a paste, then transfer to a large bowl. Stir in the vinegar and oregano. Remove the skin and excess fat from the chicken and discard. Toss the chicken with the marinade until coated, then marinate, covered and chilled, for at least 1 hour.

love with books instead of boys and not knowing about things like funerals and pain—without knowing it, somewhere, I said goodbye.

And maybe it’s because of that very specific goodbye that I cling so fiercely to second chances.

Because I have to believe I will see you again.

Because I have to believe I will come back.

Because it’s too hard otherwise.

And because, the thought of not eating the chicken and rice I had at this little place in Portugal, the thought of never eating that again completely undoes me.

To never eat that chicken and rice again would be tragic.

It would be the worst.

I cannot handle a reality that does not have a repeat of that chicken and rice.

So I believe in second chances, and third chances, and returns and surprise encounters.

I believe in circularity and the stupid/fun/funny part of life that makes for good stories, and plot twists and romance and mystery.

I have faith in this.

I’m looking forward now.

Looking forward towards maybe being a woman someday. Sort of.

But more than that, I look forward to owning a long, rectangular kitchen table that maybe I’ll build myself. A kitchen table I’ll build myself, with lots of candles on it. And there are all the people I love, who have come back and second-chance-miracle-surprised me, sitting at this table.

And then we will eat chicken and rice.

For the rice: 3 oz. Spanish chorizo (cured sausage), skin discarded and sausage cut into ¼-inch-thick slices 1 T. olive oil 2 medium onions, chopped 1 green bell pepper, chopped 3 large garlic cloves, chopped 2 t. ground cumin 2 t. dried oregano 1½ t. paprika, preferably the hot stuff, plus more, to taste 1¼ t. salt 2 Turkish bay leaves or 1 California 1 lb. tomatoes, seeded and chopped 1 12-oz. beer (not dark) 1½ c. reduced-sodium chicken broth 2 c. long-grain white rice (14 oz.) ¼ c. bottled pimiento or roasted red pepper strips, drained, rinsed Place a heavy 6- or 7-quart pot upside down over parchment paper and trace the circumference with a pencil. Cut out the circle—cutting a bit inside the pencil line—and set aside. Place the pot over medium-high heat, cook the chorizo in the olive oil, stirring until some fat is rendered—about 2 to 3 minutes. Add the onions, bell pepper and garlic and cook, stirring, until softened— about 5 minutes. Add the cumin, oregano, paprika, salt and bay leaves and cook, stirring, for 1 minute. Add the chicken with the marinade to the chorizo mixture and cook, uncovered, over medium heat for about 10 minutes—stirring frequently. Using tongs, temporarily remove the chicken pieces to a plate. Stir the tomatoes, beer, broth and rice into the pot and bring to a boil. Once the rice has come to a full boil, replace the chicken, reduce the heat to medium-low, directly cover the mixture with the round of parchment paper and place a tight-fitting lid on the pot. Cook, stirring under the parchment paper once or twice, until the rice is tender—about 20 to 30 minutes. Remove from the heat and let stand, covered, for 5 minutes. Discard the parchment paper and bay leaves, and scatter pimiento strips over the rice.

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what I eat AND WHY

GRANDMOTHER BILLY’S FRIED CHICKEN

BY K R I ST I W I L L I S

W

hen I was a little girl, my mouth would start to water as

When the first piece of chicken hit the hot grease, I would pause

soon as I heard the sound of my grandmother’s cast-iron

and listen to the crackle of the batter as it started to form its crisp

skillet hit the burner. That signal meant one thing: It was

skin. When I got older, they would let me peer over the top of the

time to make fried chicken.

frying pan, from a safe distance, and I could see the chicken as it

On Sundays, my grandparents took turns in the kitchen. My

slowly turned golden brown.

grandfather Clay would make waffles for the grandkids and then

When the meal was served, my sister and I would beg for the

turn over the kitchen to my grandmother Billy and her sister Rosie.

drumsticks, and then impatiently wait for the prayer to end so that

The sisters would chat and laugh as they prepared the family din-

we could dig in. The first bite was always the best—crunchy skin

ner, maneuvering around each other in the modest kitchen.

and spicy juices followed by tender, moist chicken. It was heaven—

Billy would put the skillet on the burner and spoon in Crisco

and to this day, I’ve never had any chicken quite like it.

until the bottom of the pitch-black pan was coated white. Rosie

Fried chicken was our official celebration food; birthdays, an-

scooped flour and spices into a paper sack, then gingerly pulled the

niversaries and visiting family all earned the highest honor with a

chicken out of its buttermilk soak, plopped it in the bag and gave it

fried chicken dinner accompanied by mashed potatoes and fresh

a good shake to coat it.

vegetables from the garden. If you were really lucky, Grandmother

I watched from the kitchen table while I snapped beans or

made an angel food cake for dessert.

shelled peas—wanting to be part of the action, but knowing not

My grandmother passed when I was nine and Aunt Rosie made

to get underfoot. Every now and then, Grandmother Billy or Aunt

fried chicken for the family—a tradition she continued whenever

Rosie would come over to check on me and slyly slip me an oat-

she visited. She would lay down the platter in front of us, pat my

meal raisin cookie, thinking the other didn’t see.

grandfather or dad on the back and say, “This is from Billy.”

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When Rosie passed, I was afraid I’d never taste that chicken again. I tried to find it in restaurants, but was always disappointed. The chicken would be good, but not exactly right. If it had the right crunch, it might not be moist enough; if it was moist, it wasn’t crunchy. Some chicken was too spicy and some not spicy enough.

My efforts to recapture the perfect chicken of my childhood had me feeling a bit like Goldilocks.

I decided the only answer was to learn to make it myself. After all, I have one of my grandmother’s cast-iron skillets and I’m a pretty good cook. The problem was, there was no recipe—either my grandmother never wrote it down, or through a series of family shuffles, the recipe was lost.

I started interviewing family members for the secret—slowly piecing the recipe together from spotty and conflicting stories. My Aunt Pat swears that the key is coating the chicken in the paper bag and being sure to cover the chicken for part of the cooking so that it cooks through and stays moist. My mom insists that the buttermilk soak is critical, as is using a cast-iron skillet.

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and laughter taught me the joy of sharing the kitchen with others. I think of them every time I put my cast-iron pan on the stove or bite into a piece of fried chicken. Even if I never get the recipe exactly right, I know they would have been proud that I tried.

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GRANDMOTHER BILLY’S FRIED CHICKEN Serves 4 1 whole chicken, cut into 10 pieces 1 qt. buttermilk 1 t. salt Vegetable oil for frying 3 c. all-purpose flour 3 T. seasoned salt 2 t. black pepper 2 t. paprika Pour the buttermilk in a large bowl and add 1 t. salt. Place the chicken in the buttermilk, cover and refrigerate overnight. Heat 1½ inches of vegetable oil in a large cast-iron skillet with a lid over medium-high heat until a thermometer reads 350°. Meanwhile, mix the flour, seasoned salt, black pepper and paprika together in a large plastic bag. Remove the chicken from the buttermilk one piece at a time and place in the bag. Shake to coat it thoroughly, then place it in the hot oil. Repeat for the first half of the chicken, being sure not to crowd the skillet. Cover the pan and fry the chicken for 8 minutes. Uncover the pan and turn the chicken. Cover the pan again and cook for another 8 minutes.

Remove the lid and cook for 1 more minute, until the chicken is golden brown. Test the internal temperature of the chicken using a meat thermometer; desired temperature is 160°. Remove the chicken and place it on paper towels to drain. Reheat the oil to 350° and repeat the breading and cooking process for the other half of the chicken.

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edible TRADITIONS

TURKISH MANTI

BY E L I F S E LV I L I • P H OTO G RA P H Y BY LU I S GU T I E R R E Z

E

very lucky family has a tradition that revolves around

cial circular wooden dough board placed on top of the sheet. The

food. For my family, that tradition means three genera-

extra-thin and long rolling pin, called oklava, was a prized pos-

tions of Turkish women and children joyously working

session—perfectly straight and just the right weight. The oklava

together to painstakingly assemble the miniature, ravioli-like

was often passed down from generation to generation along with

treats called mantı.

the recipe for the ideal dough. After the most skilled member

The most likely origin of mantı in Turkish cuisine dates back

of the household rolled out the dough, the women and children

to the Uyghur people—one of the oldest Turkic tribes—who

would gather around the board to fill the neatly cut squares of

brought it from Central Asia to Anatolia (the Asian peninsula that

dough with tiny dollops of the meat filling and fold them deftly

comprises the majority of modern Turkey) in the 1300s. Mem-

into perfect bundles. The children would be cautioned against

bers of the same tribe also traveled east, taking mantı with them,

making themselves sick from sneaking too much of the uncooked

resulting in Korean dumplings called mandu and Chinese dump-

dough and praised for well-formed squares. By the time hundreds

lings called mantou. These nomadic people were thought to carry

of mantı were shaped, cooked, topped with creamy garlic yogurt,

the dried mantı in sacks on horseback, ready to be cooked and

sizzling melted butter and dried mint, the adults would be as im-

eaten over a fire when they chose their next resting spot.

patient for the treat as the children.

Delicious and labor-intensive in any language, these delicate

Future mothers-in-law, checking out prospective brides,

bundles of light dough with meat filling have been a staple of

would ask to eat mantı prepared by the young women in order

Turkish cooking for centuries. For many Turks, mantı evokes

to judge their suitability as good housewives—the smaller and

childhood memories of mothers, aunts, grandmothers, sib-

neater the bundles, the better qualified the bride-to-be. In fact,

lings, cousins and neighbors getting together over endless tu-

Turkish legend has it that the ideal bride could make a mantı so

lip-shaped glasses of tea, and dexterous hands filling and fold-

small that 40 of them could fit in one tablespoon.

ing the perfect square-shaped bundles over laughter, stories and

There are two main ways to cook the mantı: baked or boiled.

gossip while the kids stole bites of the raw dough and tried to

Boiled mantı is softer and chewier, whereas the baked version

decipher the adult stories.

is crisp and toasty. Traditional mantı is filled with ground lamb

In wealthier homes, there were marble tables in the kitchens

or beef, but more and more, feta cheese-filled versions are being

for the kitchen staff to knead and roll out the dough. The children

introduced to accommodate changing tastes without raising too

would be invited to come and “help” by cutting narrow strips of

many eyebrows. Gather your family and friends around, bribe

the dough for the tiny meat bundles. In more modest homes, a

them with the promise of a 600-year-old recipe, and let the mantı

big sheet would be laid over the living room floor with a spe-

tradition take root in your home.

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TURKISH MANTI Serves 6–8 For the dough: 2½ c. all-purpose flour (plus extra flour for kneading and dusting) 1 t. salt 2 eggs, beaten 1 T. olive oil ½ c. whole milk

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For the filling: ½ lb. ground beef, lamb, turkey or crumbled feta 1 medium onion, finely grated 1 /³ c. finely chopped flat-leaf parsley ½ t. each salt and pepper For the yogurt sauce: 1½ c. plain yogurt 2–3 garlic cloves, crushed ½ t. salt For the toppings: 2 c. stock (beef, lamb, turkey, chicken or vegetable)—for baking 6 T. butter 1 T. dried mint 2 t. mild paprika powder 1 t. chili powder, hotness to taste To make the dough, mix the flour and the salt in a large bowl. In a separate bowl, lightly beat the eggs and mix in the oil and milk. Make a well in the middle of the flour, pour in the liquid mixture and mix well with a wooden spoon. Place the dough on a floured, smooth surface and knead for 8 to 10 minutes (alternately, the dough can be prepared in a bread machine). Cover and chill the dough for about an hour.

To make the yogurt sauce, mix the yogurt with the salt and crushed garlic, cover and set aside.

To prepare the filling, mix together the ground meat (or cheese), onion, parsley, salt and pepper, then refrigerate in a covered bowl.

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Heat the oven to 375° and lightly grease a baking dish. Place the dough on a floured surface and cut into 4 pieces. Cover the dough with a cloth and roll each piece with a rolling pin, one at a time, to about a 1/16-inch thickness. Cut the dough into 2-by-2-inch squares. Save the irregular pieces to be used in another recipe that calls for homemade noodles. Place a tiny amount of the filling into each square—roughly ½ t. per piece. Keep your hands lightly dusted to prevent sticking and bring all 4 corners together, then seal by gently squeezing the edges—creating a square bundle with a cross pattern on top. Place the dumplings in the baking dish and bake for 15 to 18 minutes—until lightly browned. Warm the stock in a small pan but don’t bring it to a boil. Remove the baking dish from the oven and pour the warmed stock over the dumplings. Return to the oven, reduce the heat to 350° and bake another 10 to 15 minutes—until most of the stock is absorbed. (Alternately, to cook the mantı by boiling, bring a pot of salted water to a boil and add the mantı a few pieces at a time—stirring occasionally to prevent sticking. The mantı will rise to the surface as it cooks—finishing in about 15 minutes. Remove the mantı with a slotted spoon.) Transfer the dumplings to a serving platter.

In a small pan, heat the butter and stir in the paprika, mint and chili powder until it sizzles. Pour the yogurt sauce over the mantı and drizzle with the spiced butter. Serve immediately.

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73

department of ORGANIC YOUTH

GROW DAT, PART ll

BY I N ES M A LT I • P H OTO G RA P H Y BY M A X E L L I OT T

Left to right (back row): Dajon Wilson, Brittany Gaines, Nick Clayton, Taylor Freels, Amber Young, Ines Malti, Terin Daily, Dee’viera Easley.

(Front row): Jacki Brinker, Jabari Brown, Meg Mattingly

L

ast fall, Urban Roots traveled to New Orleans to visit our sis-

about their experience and give their peers supportive feedback.

ter program, Grow Dat Youth Farm, and this past May, Grow

I was one of the four interns that visited Grow Dat’s farm in the

Dat had the opportunity to reciprocate and travel to Austin.

fall of last year, and I feel incredibly fortunate to be a part of this ex-

“It is so rejuvenating to be out here on the farm and rejoicing…col-

change. This workshop taught us how we can better go about giving

laborating with our sister organization Urban Roots,” said Grow

interns the proper training to engage and interest young children in

Dat’s Site Director and Outreach Coordinator Jabari Brown during

learning about healthy eating. It was a fulfilling and gratifying expe-

his visit to our 3.5-acre farm.

rience to be able to stand on the stage beside Grow Dat, to engage

One of the highlights during Grow Dat’s visit was participating

with the audience about food and nutrition, and to see children and

in a community workshop held at Wheatsville Food Co-op where

adults leave the room with smiling faces and an enlightenment on

they, along with Urban Roots members, presented the differences

the topic of sustainability in farming and our food, or at least with a

between conventional and sustainable agriculture, introduced new

greater understanding of what these two youth organizations repre-

vegetables, such as kohlrabi and fennel, along with their nutritional

sent for the good food community. While we are located in different

benefits, and hosted a taste test of sustainably grown versus conven-

states with vastly different soil types, at the heart of both programs

tionally grown carrots.

are the youth who share similar ideas about and experiences of food

The workshop was not only informative to the mix of families

and sustainability. Although this was the end of this phase of a very

and food enthusiasts curious about the nutritional and environmen-

special partnership, it is only the beginning for the two organizations

tal benefits of eating locally, but also gave interns the chance to share

and their continual nourishment of the greater community. Many

their personal stories. Joe House, a three-year Urban Roots youth

thanks to Wheatsville Food Co-op for hosting us and to the Kabacoff

leader, gave a Food Network-style cooking demo on caramelized car-

Family Foundation for sponsoring our collaboration, and thanks to

rots and shared his passion for cooking. “I’ve been cooking for most

all who attended and supported the youth in their first community

of my life, and it has helped me bond with my dad,” he said. “Food is

workshop. Thanks also to the Grow Dat team for making the trip

what brings people together—communities together—and cooking

to Austin, and for being a part of this exchange of friendship, ideas,

is just an important skill to have.” Nick Clayton, one of the Grow Dat

wisdom and laughs. Oh, and about that taste test? In case you were

interns, shared his message with the audience, too. “If you want to

wondering, the sustainably grown Urban Roots carrot, described by

be special, if you want to be unique and stand out—buy locally, eat

the youth participants as “crunchy,” “colorful,” and “sweet,” was the

locally, know your food,” he said. “Be food-smart and food-wise.”

crowd favorite. Big surprise.

After hearty applause, interns were given time to reflect with staff 74

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EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

Ines Malti, 16, is an Urban Roots outreach intern.

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EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

9/19/2014 1:20:10 PM

HEIRLOOM 2014

75

LA CASITA DE BUEN SABOR

FRIJOLES A LA CHARRA

BY LUCINDA HUTSON

T

antalizing whiffs of

such as fried chorizo or sau-

smoky

bacon,

pi-

sage, ham hocks, salt pork or

chilies,

on-

small chunks of meat. Some

ions, oregano and the un-

serve frijoles charros with

mistakably rich and earthy

more broth, while others

scent of beans simmered

prefer thicker beans. Some

with beer escape in steamy,

add dried chipotle peppers

aromatic puffs from the clay

for a smoky flavor, or fiery

pot on my stove. I just can’t

chile pequín, chile de árbol,

wait to ladle them into a big

dried red New Mexican

bowl and mound them with

chiles (colorful and pican-

freshly chopped tomatoes

te!) or roasted rajas (“strips”

(traditionally

quant

year-

of poblano peppers). Even

round, but better when in

used

simple chili powder, cay-

season) serranos, green on-

enne or store-bought sea-

ions and cilantro, for added

sonings are good choices.

color and flavor. This meth-

While cumin, cilantro

od of cooking beans is called frijoles charros—named after the

and oregano are essential seasonings, traditionalists use dried

Mexican cowboys, or charros, who cooked them over campfires

Mexican oregano—a sweet, yet spicy, herb that grows on bush-

on the range. But I call my beans frijoles a la charra because this

es in Mexico’s high desert states. You’ll find it in small packages

“cowgirl” makes them.

at local Mexican grocery stores. Another Mexican herb, epazote,

Norteños, those from Mexico’s northern states of Tamaulipas,

has a strong, resinous flavor and is used fresh or dried. Some be-

Nuevo León, Coahuila and Chihuahua, claim the origin of this

lieve that adding a few fresh sprigs to the frijoles toward the end

recipe, savoring the spicy beans with barbecued meats and home-

of cooking prevents embarrassing situations associated with the

made flour tortillas, while those from Jalisco—Mexico’s foremost

musical fruit.

tequila-producing state—also like to take credit for the recipe.

Many cooks simmer the beans in beer. This technique is some-

Whichever locale, bowls of frijoles charros accompany carne asa-

times referred to as frijoles borrachos (drunken beans), and some

da (grilled meat), quail, shrimp and quesos flameados (melted

say it’s the best “medicine” for a hangover. I always add a gener-

cheese dishes that are usually flamed, often tableside) typical-

ous splash of smoky mezcal or tequila to the pot towards the end

ly found at parrilladas—mixed-grill barbecues served at large

of cooking, for added flavor.

open-air, family-style restaurants. (It’s clear why frijoles charros fit right in with Texas barbecues, too.)

Slow-cooker enthusiasts will love making frijoles charros. My friend Randy Henderson makes an especially tasty version by add-

For generations, frijoles charros brought to work in lunch bas-

ing the fatty pieces of a smoked brisket that would otherwise be

kets, or cooked over open fires, have sustained hungry Mexican

headed for the trash. He also adds small chunks of brisket and ven-

farmers and laborers. Street vendors offer clay cups of the beans

ison sausage to his slow-cooked recipe and the beans are delicious

to late night revelers—scooping from big pots heated on char-

indeed! I’ve added thick slices of grilled (or sautéed) High Country

coal-fueled braziers. These frijoles are lovingly ladled into bowls

Bison wieners to the beans at the end of cooking, too…yum!

in home kitchens, too, and treasured recipes have migrated to the

Whether eaten by the bowlful, accompanying huevos rancheros

U.S., making frijoles charros popular on many restaurant menus.

for breakfast or as a side dish for barbecue or grilled steaks, fri-

I’ve even found cans of them on grocery store shelves!

joles charros make for satisfying, hearty fare—comfort food at its

Each cook adds a signature touch to heirloom recipes, of course, 76

HEIRLOOM 2014

EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

very best!

FRIJOLES BORRACHOS A LA CHARRA (DRUNKEN BEANS, COWGIRL-STYLE) Serves 8–10 For the frijoles: 1 lb. pinto beans, picked over and rinsed 1½ t. whole cumin seeds 1 t. dried Mexican oregano, crumbled 3 garlic cloves 2–4 dried red chilies (see suggestions in text) 1 12-oz. Mexican beer, room temperature Salt, to taste

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To finish: 6–8 oz. bacon, cut into ½-inch pieces 6 oz. chopped chorizo (optional) 2 T. bacon fat or olive oil 1 white onion, chopped 3 garlic cloves, chopped 2–4 serrano chilies, chopped 2 medium tomatoes, chopped 1 t. salt 1 t. dried Mexican oregano, crumbled Generous splash of mezcal or tequila reposado

4220 Duval Street | (512) 531-9610

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Place the beans in an earthenware olla or other large pot. Add the cumin, oregano, garlic, chili peppers, beer and enough water to cover the beans by about 2 inches. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat and simmer, covered, for about 1½ hours—adding salt towards the end of cooking. (Tip: If using ham hocks, smoked pork shanks or a few slices of salt pork to flavor the beans, add them at the beginning of cooking. If using cooked sausage or other cooked meats, add them toward the end.) Meanwhile, fry the bacon in a deep skillet until it’s slightly crisp and the fat is rendered. Add the chorizo (optional) and cook for about 4 minutes, until crumbled and browned. Drain some of the fat, if necessary, then add the onion, garlic and serranos and cook until softened. Add the tomatoes, oregano and salt and cook another 4 minutes or so. Add this mixture to the beans, along with a generous splash of mezcal or tequila, and simmer, uncovered, for another 15 minutes. Serve with bowls of condiments at the table. (Note: For even more flavor, cook the frijoles the night before serving. Reheat the beans while you prepare the bacon/onion/tomato mixture, then add to the beans and simmer for 15 minutes.)

FOR 13 GENERATIONS

MEAT OPTIONS: Handmade sausages produced with an assortment of meats, spices and flavorings, as well as bacon smoked with different kinds of wood or flavored with jalapeños, abound in grocery stores. Visit local farmers markets or butcheries for specialty products.

Trimbach: Distinctly Clean and Dry French Rieslings

centrated vegetable stock instead of water. Many brands of vegetarian chorizo or sausage exist.

BEER: Twisted X Tex Mex Beers, made in Dripping Springs (I like the Fuego pilsner, flavored with jalapeños).

ACCOMPANIMENTS:

Serve frijoles with bowls of freshly chopped tomatoes, serranos, cilantro, onions or your favorite salsa fresca, homemade tostada chips, crunchy chicharrónes (crispy, fried pork skin cracklings) or additional bacon crisps. Serve with a basket of warm corn or flour tortillas, or ladle over cornbread.

©2014 Esprit du Vin, Port Washington, NY

VEGETARIAN OPTIONS: When cooking the beans, use rich, con-

SINCE 1626

CHOICE 95 EDITORS’ Frederic Emile POINTS

EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

HEIRLOOM 2014

77

seasonal MUSE

THE VALUE OF TIME

BY CA RO L A N N SAY L E

A

few years ago, the

in a letter to his wife, he

school district in

pronounced the ‘food do-

which we live won-

ings’ as ‘first rate.’”

dered—rightly, I think—

I told the board mem-

what education and value

bers that, like heirloom

derive from preserving old

tomatoes,

buildings. Potentially at

houses and rich bottom-

risk was part of a tax abate-

lands are fragile. Count-

ment allowed for City of

less antique houses are

Austin homes deemed his-

long gone, torn down for

toric landmarks (like ours).

lack of care or for dis-

At a school board hearing,

placement by modern de-

interested parties, both for

velopment—the heirloom

and against the abatement,

soil underneath smoth-

were invited to speak. The

ered for eternity. The

vast majority read from

Boggy Creek farmhouse,

prepared statements, and

on its primordial foun-

I noticed the board mem-

old

wooden

dation, has withstood at

bers listened to the speakers, but also looked down at their papers.

least two floods (1900 and 1935) and at least one tornado (2001),

I hadn’t prepared a written statement, but without notes I was able

plus the typical tortures old structures face from the first nail on-

to look every school board member in the eye and hold more of their

ward: roof leaks, window failures, termites and every era’s “gentri-

attention as I simply told them the story of this old farmhouse.

fication.” But with periodic resuscitation, it still stands a home and

Constructed by the Smith family and their slaves over the win-

a reminder of the farm it once was: a fine house amid land stretch-

ter of 1840–1841, on the 50-acre farmstead that the family estab-

ing out, the pecan trees at the creek, the slaves’ cabins, the vegeta-

lished in 1839, the farmhouse sits firmly anchored by two giant

ble gardens and the outside kitchen. Lives have been lived out en-

limestone foundations that support four fireplaces. I told them that

tirely within this home’s wooden walls—gatherings, births, deaths,

for Larry and me, who live in the old home and steward the re-

wars, torments, bounty, love. Original to one of the last scraps of

maining five acres (yet who are of decidedly lesser means than the

bottomland farm soil in East Austin, the house bears silent witness.

pioneers) the tax abatement has been a blessing. It’s costly to keep the paint intact, the roof sound, the chimneys securely pointed and the structure protected from insects, water and rot.

Then the three-minute buzzer sounded and I left. Thankfully, our abatement survived.

As stewards of the house, as well as the land, Larry and I re-

Continuing in a random-babble style, I told the board members

cently delved behind the farmhouse’s clapboard exterior to replace

about the many people who come to our farm and immediately sense

decayed wooden supports, and added new porch floors and paint.

they’re at an “old place,” and of the many students who visit to see

Next project: the windows, through which farmers across the years

a working farm but end up getting a history lesson, too. “Sam Hous-

(and today) have no doubt watched for visitors, marauders and

ton, the first president of the Republic of Texas, was a guest here on

weather. It’s our goal to maintain the health of this antique-heir-

December 24, 1841,” I tell the students. “You’re probably standing

loom farmhouse—the true value of which dwells somewhere in the

where his carriage was parked and walking where he hobbled up to

ether and can’t be measured in dollars—along with its timeless,

the farmhouse on crutches—favoring an ankle that was wounded

nourished fields, for the next generation. We think every farmer

at the battle of San Jacinto—a major in the Texas army by his side

who ever lived here would approve.

as an aide. He ate supper here—dining on cornmeal, pork, beef and

For more information on Boggy Creek Farm or the upcoming Historic

heirloom vegetables, all raised on the farm—and later that evening,

Farmhouse Tour on November 1 and 2, visit boggycreekfarm.com

78

HEIRLOOM 2014

EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

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A ONE-OF-A-KIND EASTSIDE NEIGHBORHOOD EVENTS SPACE Perfect for weddings, private events, concerts, weekend markets and more.

1100 East 5th St, Austin TX 78702 www.fairmarketaustin.com

EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

HEIRLOOM 2014

79

NUT MILKS

BY KATE PAYNE PHOTOGRAPHY BY JO ANN SANTANGELO

L

ast year, because I was experiencing gastrointestinal is-

To dry the strained nut meal, spread the meal thinly on a de-

sues, my doctor recommended that I remove cow dairy

hydrator tray and follow the instructions for dehydrating nuts. It

from my diet, and since the breakup with my beloved raw

also works to spread the nut meal thinly on a baking sheet and

whole milk, I’ve experimented with various dairy-free milks for

place in an oven set to the lowest temperature (160° if possible,

baking and cooking. Nut milks shook out as my favorite replace-

though 200° will also work) with the door cracked open to release

ment for the various things for which I would normally use cow

moisture and allow drying. Use a food processor or grinder to

milk—especially for baking.

create a finer meal once dried, if desired. Store completely dried

Most store-bought nut milks are essentially just watered-down nuts with preservatives and other additives and not really worth

meal in the refrigerator and use when recipes call for nut flours or nut meal.

the money. Luckily, nut milks are easy to make at home, and useful not only for baking, cooking and drinking, but also for the strained nut meal by-product that results from the pureeing and

ALMOND MILK Yields approximately 2 cups, strained

straining process.

Environmentally speaking, since almonds require a lot of water to produce—1.1 gallons PER NUT, according to a study on California water usage—using and enjoying this power food conscientiously is important. Dehydrating the strained nut meal not only eliminates waste, but the resulting product actually enhances the protein content of baked goods, adds a nutty flavor to hot breakfasts or soups, and acts as a great topping for jam or honey on toast.

It’s possible to make nut milk by simply blending raw nuts in a 2-to-1 water-to-nut ratio, but soaking the nuts overnight will produce creamier milk. Soaking also breaks down the enzyme inhibitors that prevent absorption of nutrients in raw or roasted nuts.

Soaking is the early stage of sprouting—or germinating a dried nut, grain or seed into a new plant—and when soaked in water with added sea salt, whey or lemon juice, the nuts kick off an ear-

1 c. raw almonds Filtered water 2 t. sea salt Dissolve the sea salt in 1 cup of room-temperature, filtered water and soak the almonds in a jar covered with cheesecloth or a coffee filter for 8 hours or up to 48 hours. Strain the almonds and replace with the same volume of plain filtered water if it becomes foamy and bubbly. (This is only necessary for a 2-day soaking.) When ready to make the milk, drain the almonds from the soaking water, rinse and combine them with 2 cups of filtered water in a blender or food processor (processing in batches is recommended). Blend until milk forms, then strain the meal from the milk and follow the instructions above for drying the meal for baking or cooking. Use or consume the milk within 3 days.

ly fermentation process to make the nutrients more bioavailable.

A Vitamix makes the creamiest end result, but a food processor or regular blender will work well, too. Because the food processor will make quite a mess if overfull, blend the following recipes in halves or thirds. I use a wire-mesh strainer lined with cheesecloth or a flour sack dishtowel to strain the milk from the meal. Use a spatula to push all of the liquid from the meal. Sweeten finished milks as desired with honey, maple or agave, and/or flavor them with vanilla extract or ground cinnamon.

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CASHEW MILK Yields approximately 2 cups, strained 1 c. raw cashews Filtered water 2 t. sea salt Follow instructions above for almond milk, but soak for not more than 6 hours (cashews become slimy quickly).

THE DIRECTORY ARTISANAL FOODS Antonelli’s Cheese Shop We love cut-to-order artisanal cheese and all that goes with it. Order a picnic platter, take a class or host a private guided event. Free tastings daily.

512-531-9610 4220 Duval St. antonellischeese.com

Lick Honest Ice Creams Artisan ice creams celebrating the finest ingredients Texas has to offer!

Handmade in small batches in our shop, locally sourced and seasonally inspired.

512-363-5622 2032 S. Lamar Blvd. ilikelick.com

Lone Star Foodservice Lone Star Foodservice is a famly-owned wholesale meat company, whose mission is to source and deliver the finest cuts of natural beef, pork and lamb to tables across Texas.

512-646-6218 1403 E. 6th St. lonestarfood.com

Royers Pie Haven Royers Pie Haven is a place you can come grab a slice of handmade sweet and savory pies, amazing coffee & sweet treats.

512-474-2800 2900 B Guadalupe St. 979-249-5282 190 Henkel Circle, Round Top royerspiehaven.com

BEVERAGES Brooklyn Brewery Leading the world in beers made in Brooklyn.

718-486-7422 brooklynbrewery.com

Hilmy Cellars Vineyards, winery and tasting room.

830-644-2482 12346 E. US Hwy. 290, Fredericksburg hilmywine.com

Paula’s Texas Spirits Paula’s Texas Orange Liqueur and Paula’s Texas Lemon Liqueur—all natural and handmade in Austin since 2006.

Available throughout Texas. paulastexasspirits.com

Oliver Pecan Family owned pecan company in San Saba.

Orchard fresh pecans, handmade chocolates, fresh baked pies, honey butters, pecan brittles, pralines, fudge & more.

800-657-9291 1402 W. Wallace, San Saba oliverpecan.com

Royalty Pecan Farms A family owned and operated pecan farm featuring a gift shop, event venue and tourist attraction. Great source for fresh Texas pecans, pies, breads and gifts.

979-272-3904 10600 State Hwy 21 E, Caldwell royaltypecans.com

Texas Olive Ranch

Spec’s Wine Spirits and Finer Foods Family-owned since 1962, Spec’s offers expert service and Texas’ largest selection of wines, spirits and beers along with gourmet foods and more!

512-366-8260 4978 W. US Hwy. 290 512-342-6893 10515 N. MoPac Hwy. 512-280-7400 9900 S. I-35 512-263-9981 13015 Shops Pkwy.

512-366-8300 5775 Airport Blvd. specsonline.com

Texas Coffee Traders

Fresh Texas-grown extra virgin olive oil from Carrizo Springs, infused olive oil and balsamic vinegar at farmers markets in Austin, SA, NB, Houston, Dallas.

877-461-4708 texasoliveranch.com

East Austin’s artisanal coffee roaster and one-stop shop offering a wide selection of certified organic and Fair Trade options for wholesale and retail.

512-476-2279 1400 E. 4th Street texascoffeetraders.com

BAKERIES

Texas Hills Vineyard

Blackbird Bakery Blackbird Bakery is the premier supplier of prepared gluten-free pastries, breads and gluten-free flour blends in Austin.

512-971-7955 blackbird-bakery.com

Winemaking, wine sales, tasting room, patio for picnics, gifts, award-winning wines, fun-loving staff and a beautiful place to visit.

930-868-2321 878 RR 2766, Johnson City texashillsvineyard.com

The Austin Winery The Austin Winery is a boutique, urban winery sourcing grapes from premier regions of California and Texas to handcraft artisanal wines.

713-724-0942 9007 Tuscany Way, Ste. 100A theaustinwinery.com

Tito’s Handmade Vodka Tito’s Handmade Vodka is handcrafted from 100% corn and distilled 6 times by Tito Beveridge in Austin, TX at America’s original microdistillery.

Gluten-free!

512-389-9011 titosvodka.com

Wedding Oak Winery Texas winery using 100% Texas grown wine grapes located in a historic 1926 building. Open 7 days a week. Specializes in Mediterranean varietals. Great patio.

325-372-4050 316 E. Wallace, San Saba weddingoakwinery.com

DESIGN AND CONSTRUCTION Texas Casual Cottages by Trendmaker Trendmaker Homes makes it easy to build a new home on your land. Come visit one of our two Model Home Parks in Round Top or Wimberley, TX. 512-392-6591 6555 RR 12, San Marcos texascasualcottages.com

Texas Oven Co. Experts in designing and building wood-burning ovens. Our handcrafted ovens are fire-breathing works of art.

We are also a Forno Bravo pizza oven dealer.

512-222-6836 texasovenco.com

EDUCATION Auguste Escoffier School of Culinary Arts

BOOKSELLERS Texas’ leading independent bookstore since 1970. Located in the heart of downtown, BookPeople has been voted best bookstore in Austin for over 15 years!

512-472-5050 603 N. Lamar Blvd. bookpeople.com

The Auguste Escoffier School of Culinary Arts is teaching the next generation of chefs and pastry chefs the importance of sustainable and ethical choices.

512-451-5743 6020-B Dillard Cir. escoffier.edu

University of Texas Press

The Natural Epicurean

Our mission is to advance and disseminate knowledge through the publication of books and journals and through electronic media.

512-252-3206 utexaspress.com

The place to go for a plant-based, comprehensive professional services training, plus public events and classes.

Learn here—change your kitchen; change your life.

512-476-2276 1700 S. Lamar Blvd. naturalepicurean.com

BookPeople

CATERING AND MEAL DELIVERY Firehouse Libations Authentic craft cocktail catering service with stylishly furnished bar arrangements.

512-992-5670 605 Brazos St. firehouselibations.com

Pink Avocado Catering A custom catering company specializing in tailored menus, incredible food and surprisingly personal service.

512-656-4348 401 Sabine St. Ste. B pinkavocadocatering.com

Spoon & Co. Catering It’s our business to delight you with the details, memorable events with mindfully chosen, prepared and presented food and a caring crew!

512-912-6784 spoonandco.com

EVENTS Come and Taste It at The Grapevine Third Thursdays at The Grapevine in Gruene Historic District. Meet Texas’ best winemakers and craft brewers.

Free tastings, live music & giveaways.

830-606-0093 1612 Hunter Rd., New Braunfels grapevineingruene.com

Edible Austin’s Eat Drink Local Week This year’s EDLW kicks off with keynote speaker Dan Barber, chef/owner of New York’s famed Blue Hill restaurants and farm. Throughout EDLW, celebrate local food at farmers markets, farm dinners and in your own kitchen.

512-441-3971 edibleaustin.com/eatdrinklocalweek

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HEIRLOOM 2014

81

presents

Currently showing on PBS Television Check Your Local Listings or go to ediblefeast.com

www.ediblecommunities.com

Fair Market A one-of-a-kind eastside neighborhood events space.

512-582-0844; 1100 E. 5th St. fairmarketaustin.com

Palm Door on Sixth Palm Door on Sixth is the most versatile event space located in downtown Austin’s Historic Entertainment District for parties up to 1000 people.

512-391-1994 508 E. 6th St. palmdoor.com

Sugar Land Wine & Food Affair Attracting more than 8,500 fanatic foodies, the Sugar Land Wine & Food Affair is recognized as the most anticipated culinary attraction of the year.

713-747-9463 sugarlandwineandfoodaffair.com

FARMS Boggy Creek Farm One of the first Urban Farms in the USA, BCF offers hyper-fresh vegetables at the on-farm stand, Wed. through Sat., 9 am­–1 pm. Stroll the farm and visit the hen house!

512-926-4650 3414 Lyons Rd. boggycreekfarm.com

Coyote Creek Organic Farm and Feed Mill Coyote Creek Organic Feed Mill produces certified organic, non-GMO feed for all types of livestock. We are dedicated to local, organic and sustainable Ag. 512-285-2556 13817 Klaus Ln. coyotecreekfarm.org

Twin County Lamb

FARMERS MARKETS HOPE Farmers Market at Plaza Saltillo Sundays 11 am–3 pm. Come celebrate local food, art and live music every Sunday at our unique East Austin market!

We accept SNAP/WIC. Free parking.

512-553-1832 401 Comal St. hopefarmersmarket.org

Lone Star Farmers Market Providing fresh fruits, vegetables and quality products. Located at The Shops at the Galleria every Sunday from 10 am–2 pm in the Lowe’s parking lot.

512-924-7503 12611 Shops Pkwy., Ste. 100, Bee Cave lonestarfarmersmarket.com

Sustainable Food Center SFC cultivates a healthy community by strengthening the local food system and improving access to nutritious, affordable food.

512-236-0074 400 W. Guadalupe St. 3200 Jones Rd., Sunset Valley 2835 E. Martin Luther King Jr. Blvd.

4600 Lamar Blvd.

2921 E. 17 St., Bldg C (Office) sustainablefoodcenter.org

Texas Farmers Market Cedar Park (Saturdays, 9 am–1 pm, Lakeline Mall) and Mueller Farmers Markets (Sundays, 10 am–2 pm, the historic Mueller Hangar). Open year round, rain or shine.

512-363-5700 11200 Lakeline Mall Dr., Cedar Park 4550 Mueller Blvd. texasfarmersmarket.org

We are ranchers embracing stewardship of the land providing premium quality all natural, free range lamb raised in the Texas Hill Country.

830-864-4717 30881 Ranch Rd. 385, Harper twincountydorpers.com

Richardson Farms Our cattle are strictly grassfed. The hogs and chickens are pastured and are never given any growth hormones or antibiotics.

512-446-2306 richardsonfarms.com

GROCERS

Wheatsville Food Co-op

Der Küchen Laden

Serving up local, organic, sustainable and humanely raised food since 1976.

Full service deli, hot bar, salad bar, espresso bar and eating area with wi-fi.

512-478-2667; 3101 Guadalupe St. 512-814-2888; 4001 S. Lamar Blvd. wheatsville.coop

Der Küchen Laden is for the little chef in all of us. We have gourmet kitchenware, tools, gadgets, coffees and teas (just to name a few). Come check us out!

830-997-4937 258 E. Main St., Fredericksburg littlechef.com

Whole Foods Market

Faraday’s Kitchen Store

Selling the highest quality natural & organic products.

512-542-2200 525 N. Lamar Blvd.

512-345-5003 9607 Research Blvd.

512-206-2730 12601 Hill Country Blvd., Bee Cave 512-358-2460 4301 W. William Cannon wholefoodsmarket.com

HEALTH AND BEAUTY AOMA Graduate School of Integrative Medicine Acupuncture, Chinese Herbs, and Integrative Primary Care. In-network provider for United Health Care & Blue Cross Blue Shield.

512-454-1188 4701 West Gate Blvd., Bldg A aoma.edu

Blue Lux Fashion with a conscience! Organic, fair trade, local clothing and accessories.

512-284-9969 4477 S. Lamar, Ste. 590 blueluxfashion.com

Farmhouse Delivery

JuiceLand

We bring the farm to your door, offering home or office delivery of local produce, meat, dairy, eggs, and local, artisanal products.

512-529-8569 farmhousedelivery.com

JuiceLand fuels the people of Austin daily with fresh juice, superfood smoothies and wholesome vegan foods.

512-480-9501 juicelandaustin.com

Greenling

Austin’s favorite pharmacy for more than 30 years, Peoples integrates nutrition, supplements and medicine with natural remedies and custom Rx compounding.

512-219-9499; 13860 Hwy. 183 N., Ste. C 512-459-9090; 4018 N. Lamar Blvd.

512-444-8866; 3801 S. Lamar Blvd.

512-327-8877; 4201 Westbank Dr. peoplesrx.com

Greenling is a home delivery service of organic & sustainably produced local food!

512-440-8449 greenling.com

Royal Blue Grocery Downtown Austin’s neighborhood grocer—with dairy, prepared foods, beer and wine, Royal Blue has it all, in a convenient and compact format.

Catering too!

512-499-3993; 247 W. 3rd St. 512-476-5700; 360 Nueces St. 512-469-5888; 609 Congress Ave. 512-386-1617; 301 Brazos St., Ste. 101 512-480-0036; 51 Rainey St. royalbluegrocery.com

Peoples Rx

HOUSEWARES AND GIFTS Callahan’s General Store “Austin’s real general store!” From hardware to westernwear, from feed to seed... and a whole lot more!

512-385-3452; 501 Bastrop Hwy. callahansgeneralstore.com

Austin’s best source for cookware, bakeware, knives, kitchen tools, cooking classes and so much more!

512-266-5666 12918 Shops Pkwy., Ste. 540, Bee Cave faradayskitchenstore.com

The Herb Bar Best place to cure what ails you and a healing resource center since 1986. Our Optimal Health Advisers are highly trained, knowledgeable and compassionate.

512-444-6251 200 W. Mary St. theherbbar.com

Sunset Canyon Pottery The place to go for handmade fine craft specializing in stoneware pottery for table and kitchen. Visit the Gallery, working studio, and take a class.

512-894-0938 4002 E. Hwy 290, Dripping Springs sunsetcanyonpottery.com

LANDSCAPE AND ENVIRONMENTAL Austin Water Austin Water is committed to providing for Austin’s current and future water needs in a reliable and sustainable way.

512-972-0101 austintexas.gov/department/water

Barton Springs Nursery Locally grown Texas native plants.

Organic pest management. Environmentally friendly soil amendments.

Beautiful gifts.

512-328-6655; 3601 Bee Caves Rd. bartonspringsnursery.net

Gabriel Valley Farms We are a wholesale nursery specializing in growing certified organic herb & vegetable plants. Look for our “yellow tag” plants at your favorite nursery.

512-930-0923 gabrielvalleyfarms.com

The Great Outdoors Nursery A garden store and so much more!

512-448-2992 2730 S. Congress Ave. gonursery.com.

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edible MARKETPLACE Dine In - Carry Out - Catering

High quality, free-range venison, antelope and wild boar meat from truly wild animals.

And Diamond H Ranch Quail!

Open at 11am every day except Tuesday

Order Online

318 4th Street, Blanco 830-833-1227 www.old300bbq.com

www.brokenarrowranch.com

Secede Responsibly

doslunascheese.com • 512-963-5357

Johnny G’s Meat Market

™

www.whitehatrum.com www.facebook.com/whitehatrum

Pure Michigan maple syrup, maple candy and assorted seasonal jams and jellies.

Made especially for Johnny G’ s Meat Market 11600 Manchaco Rd. H, Austin, TX 78748 (512)280-6514

The Best Little Meat Market In South Austin.

512-280-6514 11600 Manchaca Rd., Suite H, Austin, TX 78748

johnnygbutcherblock.com

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Available online and weekly at your local markets.

blackberryblossomfoods.com blackberryblossomfoods@gmail.com

The perfect gift.

Uniquely delicious rum cakes made in Austin.

Order Online - We Ship

revolutionspirits.com

RumYumCakes.com

No Hormones • No Antibiotics • Grass Finished

www.HeritageLeanBeef.com | 830-683-7198

Gallery & Nursery Offering Landscape Design & Installation 900 Hwy 290 West, Dripping Springs 512-569-0175 • www.solsticegardens.com

gifts party ideas & more

C E L E B R AT I O N S

austin reserve gin

edibleaustin.com

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edible DC

Celebrating the Local Food Culture of the Capitol Region, Season by Season

Mick Klug on Peaches

Refresh: Cold Summer Soups T H E H E I R LO O M TO M ATO

SUMMER 2014

•

A MEMBER OF EDIBLE COMMUNITIES

•

ISSUE 24

Support Local Community, Food & Drink Member of Edible Communtiies

Good food. Good drink. Good read. • No. 25 • Summer 2014

Javier Plascencia | Organic Beer | Smit Farms | No-dirt Gardening Tulloch Farms | Crime in the Fields | Native Plant Gardening

edible Toronto Member of Edible Communities

®

AND THE GOLDEN HORSESHOE

No. 15 • Spring 2011

edible TULSA

Inspired | Informative | Influential

Spring’s Bean Sprung!

Overindulge in Asparagus while the Local Pickings are Good Romance the Palate, Latin American Style Taste Prince Edward County Resurrect Tradition

Support Local Community, Food & Drink Member of Edible Communities

It’s About Thyme Garden Center

The Inn at Wild Rose Hall

Marta Stafford Fine Art

Barley Swine / Odd Duck

Top quality culinary herbs for chefs, and native plants for gardeners. A nursery with expert staff and pocket-friendly prices. Free lectures most Sundays.

512-280-1192 11726 Manchaca Rd. itsaboutthyme.com

A one of a kind event venue with lodging blending relaxing natural beauty with vintage hill country style.

512-380-5683 11110 Fitzhugh Rd. theinnatwildrosehall.com

Located in the Texas Hill Country, housed in a historic early 1900s bank. Work by national & regional artists. Figural work, Impressionistic landscapes and more.

830-693-9999 200 Main St., Marble Falls martastaffordfineart.com

Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center

Marble Falls/Lake LBJ Chamber of Commerce

PROFESSIONAL SERVICES

Inspired by our farmer friends.

Check out oddduckaustin.com for our latest menu offerings. Make your reservation at barleyswine.com for our tasting menu.

Odd Duck: 512-433-652 1201 S. Lamar Blvd. oddduck.com Barley Swine: 512-394-8150 2024 S. Lamar Blvd. barleyswine.com

The Wildflower Center is a native plant botanic garden, a university research center and one of the 1,000 places to see before you die.

512-232-0100; 4801 La Crosse Ave. wildflower.org

Natural Gardener We are a garden center and teaching facility dedicated to promoting organic time-tested gardening practices.

512-288-6113; 8648 Old Bee Caves Rd. naturalgardeneraustin.com

LODGING AND TOURISM Austin Motel

The holiday season is the reason to visit Marble Falls world-famous Walkway of Lights with 2 million lights reflecting off Lake Marble Falls. Open Nov 21.

830-693-2815; marblefalls.org

Onion Creek Kitchens at Juniper Hills Farm Cooking school, private dinners, luxury cabin rentals.

830-833-0910 5818 RR 165, Dripping Springs juniperhillsfarm.com

W Austin

Austin Label Company Custom Labels up to 10 x 20 on paper, foil, synthetics, multiple adhesives, embossing, hot foil and UV coatings. Proud members of Go Texan, FTA and TWGGA. 512-302-0204; 1610 Dungan Ln. austinlabel.com

Nunnally and Freeman Dentistry Holistic dentists known the world over for excellence.

830-693-3646 2100 Hwy. 1431 W., Marble Falls healthysmilesforlife.com

The Purple Fig Cleaning Co.

Unique, family owned and operated, award-winning Austin landmark. Modernized but not commercialized since 1938. Rates include complimentary cable, wi-fi & parking.

512-441-1157; 1220 S. Congress Ave. austinmotel.com

Unleash your inner soul man, rock god or indie hipster with a stay at the latest destination sensation in Austin— W Austin, featuring Trace and Away Spa. 512-542-3600 200 Lavaca St. whotelaustin.com

We are a local company providing green cleaning services, producing green cleaning products and offering green living workshops to adults and children.

512-351-1405 cleanfig.com

Bastrop Culinary District

NONPROFITS

Atria at the Arboretum

With over 18 restaurants and 11 food related businesses, historic downtown Bastrop has something for every palate.

Come visit and experience the food!

512-303-0904 visitbastrop.com

Brenham/Washington County CVB Visit Brenham and Washington County, home of the birthplace of Texas, Washington-on-the-Brazos State historic site. scenic drives, wineries, great lodging.

979-836-3696 115 W. Main St., Brenham visitbrenhamtexas.com

Deer Lake Lodge and Spa Deer Lake is an organic spa and resort.

We offer a full service spa and salon, juicing classes, yoga, weekend retreats and a respite from every day life.

936-647-1383 10500 Deer Lake Lodge Rd, Montgomery deerlakelodge.com

Fredericksburg Conference and Visitors Bureau Visit Fredericksburg, a small gem nestled in the Texas Hill Country. Enjoy eclectic shops, diverse lodging, amazing restaurants and Texas wines.

866-997-3600 visitfredericksburgtx.com

Capital Area Food Bank of Texas CAFB provides food and grocery products through a network of nearly 300 Partner Agencies and nutrition programs, serving nearly 46,000 people weekly.

512-282-2111; 8201 S. Congress Ave. austinfoodbank.org

PHOTOGRAPHY AND ART Blanton Museum of Art The Blanton Museum of Art, one of the foremost university art museums in the country, offers all visitors engaging experiences that connect art and ideas.

512-471-7324 200 E. Martin Luther King Jr. Blvd. blantonmuseum.org

The Contemporary Austin The Contemporary Austin reflects the spectrum of contemporary art through exhibitions, commissions, education, and the collections. With two locations and the Art School, The Contemporary aspires to be an essential part of city life.

512-453-5312; 700 Congress Ave. 512-458-8191; 3809 W. 35th St. thecontemporaryaustin.org

REAL ESTATE Atria at the Arboretum offers exceptional senior living with luxury services and amenities for Austin’s most fascinating older adults.

512-346-4900 9306 Great Hills Trail atria-arboretum.com

Buenos Aires Cafe Austin-grown Argentine restaurant. We use only the freshest ingredients available and make an effort to support local farmers. Food made with love daily.

512-382-1189 1201 E. 6th St. 512-441-9000 13500 Galleria Cir., Bee Cave buenosairescafe.com

Cafe Josie Established in 1997, Cafe Josie strives to provide our guests with a memorable dining experience focusing on using locally sourced ingredients.

512-322-9226; 1200 B W. 6th St. cafejosie.com

Chez Nous A casual french bistro, serving Austin since 1982, Chez Nous offers a delectable selection of regional french cuisine and wines in a relaxed, convivial and intimate atmosphere.

512-473-2413; 510 Neches St. cheznousaustin.com

East Side Pies

Boutique firm specializing in Central Austin since 1987, especially the 78704 where we have sold more homes than any other single Realtor.

512-923-6648; 905 Avondale Rd. greenmangorealestate.com

We’ve got homemade, thin crust pizzas with local veggies and meats.

Gluten-free options, too!

512-524-0933 1401 Rosewood Ave. 512-454-7437 5312 Airport Blvd., Ste. G 512-467-8900 1809-1 W. Anderson Ln. eastsidepies.com

Land & Ranch Realty, LLC

Green Pastures

Green Mango Real Estate

Assisting buyers and sellers in Texas land transactions involving ranches, farms, and live water recreational properties.

210-275-3551 382 Hwy. 83 S., Leakey landandranchrealty.com

RESTAURANTS

Located in old South Austin a mile-anda-half south of the river on 5 acres. Offering lunch, dinner and Sunday brunch.

Catering and events on and offsite.

512-444-4747; 811 W. Live Oak St. greenpasturesrestaurant.com

Jack Allen’s Kitchen

Barlata Tapas Bar Located in the heart of South Lamar.

Barlata offers a variety of tapas, paellas, regional Spanish wines and cavas.

Come and enjoy a bit of Spain with us.

512 473-2211 1500 S. Lamar Blvd., Ste. 150 barlataaustin.com

Texan in spirit and local in source, Jack Allen’s Kitchen serves up Texas-inspired cuisine, fresh cocktails, cold beers and good times daily.

512-852-8558 7720 Hwy. 71 W. 512-215-0372 2500 Hoppe Tr., Round Rock jackallenskitchen.com

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Kerbey Lane Cafe Kerbey Lane Cafe has proudly served comfortable food at a reasonable price since 1980. Come into any of our 5 Austin locations for a taste!

512-451-1436; 3704 Kerbey Ln. 512-445-4451; 3003 S. Lamar Blvd.

512-258-7757; 13435 Hwy. 183, Ste. 415 512-477-5717; 2606 Guadalupe St. 512-899-1500; 4301 W. William Cannon kerbeylanecafe.com

Salt & Time Butcher Shop and Salumeria A full service Butcher Shop and restaurant, 100% locally sourced meat and produce, house made deli meats, charcuterie and salumi.

512-524-1383 1912 E. 7th St. saltandtime.com

Snack Bar

Serving the Texas Hill Country fresh and seasonal favorites using local ingredients.

512-847-7327; 111 River Rd., Wimberley leaningpear.com

Chef-driven, globally inspired & locally sourced menu with eco-vineyard wine, craft beer, artisan coffee and tea in a stylish relaxed space. Bring the dog.

512-445-2626; 1224 S. Congress Ave. snackbaraustin.com

Lenoir

The Turtle Restaurant

The Leaning Pear Café & Eatery

Lenoir is an intimate, family-run restaurant offering a weekly, local prix-fixe menu, great wine and friendly service.

512-215-9778; 1807 S. 1st St. lenoirrestaurant.com

Your destination for food prepared from locally available, seasonal ingredients.

325-646-8200 514 Center Ave., Brownwood theturtlerestaurant.com

Otto’s German Bistro

TNT/Tacos and Tequila

Otto’s offers German-inspired fare in Fredericksburg, Texas. Featuring locally sourced produce and meats. Local beers and wines on tap, handcrafted cocktails.

830-307-3336 316 E. Austin St., Fredericksburg ottosfbg.com

Fresh, handmade, and local describe this southwestern grill and tequila bar.

2013 Zagat listed TNT #1 in their top ten places to sip tequila in the US. 512-436-8226 507 Pressler St. tacos-and-tequila.com

Vaudeville & V Supper Club

Mission Restaurant Supply

Vaudeville is the foodie Mecca in the Hill Country. You will find under one roof a bistro, wine & gourmet market, a fine dining restaurant & much more!

830-992-3234 230 E. Main, Fredricksburg vaudeville-living.com

Mission Restaurant Supply is a full-service dealer for top of the line food service equipment and supplies.

Come shop with us. We are open to the public!

512-389-1705 6509 N. Lamar Blvd.

210-354-0690 1126 S. St. Mary’s St., San Antonio 361-289-5255 1737 N. Padre Island Dr., Corpus Christi 956-467-1295 3422 N. 10th St., McAllen 817-265-3973 2524 White Settlement Rd., Ft. Worth missionrs.com

We Olive Offering artisan olive oils, aged balsamics, gourmet foods, and gifts! Our wine bar features boutique wines, local craft beers, and a small bites menu.

512-382-6517 12800 Hill Country Blvd., G-130, Bee Cave weolive.com/austin

Wink Restaurant & Wine Bar The daily menu is based on local artisans. Wink happily embraces omnivores, vegetarians, vegans, pescetarians and special dietary issues.

512-482-8868; 1014 N. Lamar Blvd. winkrestaurant.com

Paella Mix Paella Mix “Online Store” is the easiest way to buy authenthic Paella stuff such as Paella Mix, Paella Pans, Cazuelas for tapas, etc.

512-577-5251 paellamix.com

SPECIALTY MARKET Make It Sweet At Make It Sweet, you can find tools, supplies and ingredients to make cakes, cookies and candies and learn fun, new techniques in the classes offered.

512-371-3401; 9070 Research Blvd. makeitsweet.com

For information on advertising and listings in the directory, email dawn@edibleaustin.com.

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Do Ho Suh, Net-Work, 2010–2014. Gold and chrome plating with polyurethane coating on ABS plastic and nylon fishing net. Dimensions variable. Installation view, The Contemporary Austin – Betty and Edward Marcus Sculpture Park at Laguna Gloria, Austin, 2014. Courtesy the artist and Lehmann Maupin, New York and Hong Kong. Photograph by Brian Fitzsimmons.

ART DE TERROIR

Do Ho Suh September 20, 2014 – January 11, 2015 On view at the Betty and Edward Marcus Sculpture Park at Laguna Gloria and the Jones Center

Jones Center 700 Congress Avenue Austin, TX 78701 512 453 5312

Betty and Edward Marcus Sculpture Park / Laguna Gloria 3809 West 35th Street Austin, TX 78703 • 512 458 8191

thecontemporaryaustin.org

Art School 3809 West 35th Street Austin, TX 78703 512 323 6380

Give the gift of JAK’s this holiday season

The Cookbook JACK ALLEN’S KITCHEN Celebrating the Tastes of Texas

by Jack Gilmore and Jessica Dupuy Photographs by Kenny Braun

Gift Cards For every $50 Gift Card, you get $10 FREE!

Order the cookbook and gift cards online or pick them up at JAK’s.

JackAllensKitchen.com

© 2014, Whole Foods Market IP, L.P.

EAT LIKE AN IDEALIST. America’s Healthiest Grocery Store® wfm.com/valuesmatter DOMAIN: Just off Mopac, North of Baker | NORTH: Gateway Shopping Center | DOWNTOWN: 6th & Lamar SOUTH: William Cannon & Mopac | WEST: Hill Country Galleria @wholefoodsATX