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Austin No. 28 Summer 2013

Celebrating Central Texas food culture, season by season


Beverage Issue

Memb er of Ed ib le Commu n ities Memb er of Ed ib le Commu n ities

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CONTents beverage issue 6

Publisher’s Note


Notable Mentions


Notable Edibles

 Berry Center, Up & Down Tour, Coterie Market, Cuvée Coffee, Garden Time Planner.





Edible Waters

Philly Seafood.


Outdoor Cooking

Veggies fresh from the grill.


Farmers Diary

Swede Farm.


Cooking Fresh

A summer menu from Chefs Todd and Jessica.


Edible Environment

beverage FEATURES 24 Michelada Find your perfect summer michelada recipe.

War on waste.


Edible Endurance

Wheatsville Food Co-op.


Behind the Vines

Hilmy Cellars.


Edible Gardens

Outdoor pharmacy.


Department of Organic Youth

Baking smiles.


Hip Girl’s Guide To Homemaking

Homemade root beer.


La Casita de Buen Sabor

Cantina la Lucinda.


The Directory

106 Art

De Terroir



The Other White Milk Spotlight on goat’s milk.

42 Wine Guides The demanding craft of sommeliers.


Turkish Coffee Discover the history and read your fortune.


Glass of the Good Juicing takes Austin by storm.


Bride of Tequila A conversation with author Lucinda Hutson.


Making a Big Slash Texas beverage industry’s big business.


Tipsy Texan A brief history of the American cocktail.

Cover:  M  ichelada from El Chile Cafe y Cantina by Whitney Arostegui (page 24).

Publisher’s Note

DRINK, eat and be well

Publisher Marla Camp


ith so much to celebrate, it’s entirely appropriate that this is our Beverage Issue and toasting is in order.

First, a toast to our newest Edible team member,

Jenna Noel


Dawn Jordan, who is joining us as Advertising Director

Advertising Director

and Events Coordinator. We have always held that our

Dawn Jordan

mission to grow community goes beyond our printed

Production Assistant

pages and spills into our signature community events and

Whitney Arostegui

fundraisers. We are excited to bring a fresh focus to creating these events with

Copy Editor

each new issue. Watch for details about our Sipping Social, a vintage-themed

Christine Whalen

celebration of the Beverage Issue coming up on June 21. And here’s a toast to our advertising partners who make it possible for us to bring our mission to life. We would not be telling the stories and growing the local food community without you. Our 2013–14 events calendar showcases We’re also celebrating our move to publish six issues a year beginning in January 2014. We’re growing our staff and family of contributors to accomplish this now, as we typically work six to twelve months in advance of publication. We’re also increasing our press run to 40,000 beginning with this summer issue (another toast!). Our expansion in circulation and frequency will allow us to tell more stories and reach more readers in more places. Another toast is in order to the formation of a much-needed resource in our community, Austin Food For Life, a nonprofit organization dedicated to developing a healthier Austin food community, including helping food and beverage industry professionals, farmers and artisans access affordable health care. Austin Food For Life will be the beneficiary of our Sipping Social event. A final toast goes out to two of our contributors who have books coming out just in time for our Beverage Issue, Lucinda Hutson and David Alan. Appropriately focused on tequila and cocktails, respectively, you’ll find excerpts from the books—with recipes—inside. Please plan to join us in celebrating with them at upcoming Edible events at BookPeople and at our Sipping Social. I’ll leave you with one of the little dichos (sayings used for toasts in Spanish) sprinkled throughout Lucinda’s book, ¡Viva Tequila! Panza llena, Full stomach,


Corazón contento.


Editorial Assistants Melinda Barsales, Claire Cella, Dena Garcia, Cari Marshall, Michelle Moore, Lauren Walz

Advertising Sales

and celebrates these partnerships.



Happy heart.

Curah Beard, Laurie Cochran, Lis Riley

Distribution Manager Greg Rose

Contributors Full listing online at

Advisory Group Terry Thompson-Anderson, Dorsey Barger, Cathryn Dorsey, Jim Hightower, Toni Tipton-Martin, Mary Sanger, Suzanne Santos, Carol Ann Sayle

CONTACT US Edible Austin 1415 Newning Avenue, Austin, TX 78704 512-441-3971 Edible Austin is published quarterly by Edible Austin L.L.C. All rights reserved. Subscription rate is $35 annually. No part of this publication may be used without written permission of the publisher. ©2013. Every effort is made to avoid errors, misspellings and omissions. If, however, an error comes to your attention, please accept our sincere apologies and notify us.

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notable Mentions Nature Nights at the Wildflower Center

We Are Texas Spirits We aim to make Texans, Americans, and the world fall in love with Texas-made distilled spirits. We aim to make Texas the best state in which to operate a distillery. We aim to make distilleries a crucial component of Texas tourism.

For nature lovers who want to make the most of these long summer days, the Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center presents Nature Nights—a fun way to explore plants, animals and the ecology of Central Texas. With a different theme each week— ranging from amphibians to snakes to birds of prey—Nature Nights

Help us make distilleries the pride of Texas.

feature interactive presentations, hikes with experts in their fields

Ask for our products at stores and establishments near you. Join us! Principal, Associate, and Enthusiast Memberships available.

eryone to discover. Admission is free, and children 12 and under

supported through volunteer efforts by the Capital Area Master

Azar Distilling, LLC Texas Hideout Distillery D.E.W. Distillation LLC Deep Eddy Vodka/SAVVY Vodka Firestone & Robertson Distilling Co. Garrison Brothers Distillery North Texas Distillers Paula’s Texas Spirits Powderfinger Spirits

Railean Distillers, LLC Ranger Creek Brewing & Distilling Rebecca Creek Distillery, LLC South Congress Distillery Spirit of Texas Tito’s Handmade Vodka Treaty Oak Distilling Co. Whitmeyer’s Distilling Co., LLC Yellow Rose Distilling, LLC

and crafts for kids. And with the center’s impressive array of trails, gardens, ponds and meadows, there’s a little something for evreceive a free gift in the store. Nature Nights are 6 to 9 p.m. every Thursday from June 13 through July 25 (except July 4), and are Naturalists. Visit for more information.

Funkytonk Farmers Market North Austinites have another farmers market to call their own. In May, the Funkytonk Farmers’ Market debuted on Anderson Lane near 183 at the North Austin Trailer Yard (The NATY). The Funkytonk Market—which has a grow-

Come and taste these products for yourself at the Edible Austin Sipping Social June 21.

ing list of vendors, but already includes many farmers and artisans—prides itself on being kid-friendly and fun for all, with a lineup of live music and family activities. Catch the market every Saturday from 9 a.m. to 1 p.m. The NATY is home to several food trailers, covered seating, free Wi-Fi, portable restrooms, a music stage, a playground and ample parking. Visit for more information.

Edible Austin and BookPeople present Lucinda Hutson and ¡Viva Tequila! on June 7 Edible Austin presents celebrated food, garden and lifestyle writer Lucinda Hutson talking about her new book, ¡Viva Tequila! Cocktails, Cooking, and Other Agave Adventures, featuring sights, sounds and tastings from the book on Friday, June 7 at 7 p.m. at BookPeople. For a preview of this delightful evening, read Edible Austin’s interview with Lucinda on page 70 with an excerpt from the book with recipes. 8



Sipping Social brings the Beverage issue to life on June 21 On Friday, June 21, Sipping Social partygoers will be drenched in 1920s atmosphere and intrigue as we bring Edible Austin’s Beverage issue to life. We will celebrate select craft spirits, handcrafted wines and authentic brews within the intimate spaces of Vuka, one of Austin’s most compelling new event venues, complete with vintage furnishings and chandeliers. Guests can peruse the wine bar, cocktail lounge, beer hall and coffee bar among other sipping sensations— each weaving its own spell. To complete the experience there will be artisan-made treats, special guests, music by Cats and the Canary and videos inspired from times long past. For tickets and updates,

Devon Dikeou. PLEASE DEUX (ROSES, OEILLETS, PENSÉES), 2011 Ongoing. C-Print


Stop and Eat the Roses

g n i S i pp

l a i c So

Artist Devon Dikeou’s exhibition Please, which runs July 14 through September 1 at Arthouse at the Jones Center, features living re-creations of the flower arrangements and vases in Édouard Manet’s last paintings. If your interest in flowers goes

June 21

beyond art into food, come to AMOA-Arthouse and Edible Austin’s Stop and Eat the Roses community event on Tuesday, July 23 from 7:30 to 10 p.m. Experience the exhibition, and then taste food and drink created with edible flowers by notable Austin chefs and mixologists. Tickets are $15 for museum members or $20 for nonmembers. For more information and tickets to the event, go to programs/edibleflowers

Come in your favorite vintage attire to our 1920's-themed celebration of all things beverage-related with live music, artisanal food, handcrafted drinks and surprises around every corner.

Slow Food Austin Grub Trivia Are you quick on your feet with your foodie trivia? If so, mark your calendar for Slow Food Austin’s Grub Trivia on Sunday, July 21 from noon to 4 p.m. at Shoal Crossing Event Center. Test your culinary

Music by Cats and the Canary

knowledge with this pub-style trivia match and enjoy a “grub crawl,” including tastings from more than a dozen Austin restaurants. Raffle prizes will be offered from local merchants and artisans, and the inaugural “Snailblazer Award” will be presented to a member of the

Photography of David Alan and Joe Eifler by Michael Thad Carter


7-10 pm

community. Visit for details and tickets.

Edible Austin and Bookpeople Present David Alan and Tipsy TExan Edible Austin presents David Alan talking about his new book, Tipsy

Benefit for Austin Food For Life

Texan: Spirits and Cocktails from the Lone Star State. The event takes place on Wednesday, July 31 at 7 p.m. at BookPeople will feature special guests and tastings from the book. For a peek inside the book, read an excerpt on page 80.

Tickets & Info at:

edi bleausti n com /si ppi nngsocial g social EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM



Summer Camp for Wee Foodies Budding restaurateurs can develop their skills at Cook, Learn, Grow’s Restaurant Week, a summer cooking camp for kids ages 5 to 13. Professional chefs and educators teach young chefs how to run a restaurant, from cooking, cleaning and serving to the dos and don’ts of dining etiquette. Campers also learn different foodprep techniques and how to create balanced meals, and serve parents a meal on the last day. Each camp lasts one week, and they are held at various locations around the Austin area from June through August. Visit for more information.

Foodies: Get Ready to Rumble On Sunday, August 11, the Austin Food Quiz Bowl will pit teams of food industry professionals against one another in a battle for bragging rights. Teams will puzzle over questions developed by Addie Broyles of the Austin American-Statesman, Quiz Bowl founder Karla Loeb, and former Quiz Bowl MVPs Paul Courtright of Pioneer Wine and Elizabeth Ruggieri of Salt & Time. Attendees can enjoy the show while nibbling on fare provided by local restaurants, and will also have the opportunity to compete in a game show-style event for prizes like exclusive dinners and hotel stays. The event will be held from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. at Saengerrunde Hall. Proceeds benefit Austin Food for Life,


ty attitud

e - ci country vib

a nonprofit that helps provide food industry professionals access to affordable health care. Visit for tickets and details.

Blanco Lavender FestivaL The 9th Annual Blanco Lavender Festival will be held Friday, June 7 through Sunday, June 9. This citywide celebration features

EVERY SATURDAY 9am to 1pm Fresh produce, meats, eggs, specialty foods and food trailers serving breakfast and lunch!

Bringin’ the best of the country to the heart of Austin @ the Naty!

FOOD TRAILERS & LIVE MUSIC 1012 W Anderson Lane @183 & Lamar

Parking lot of Hobby Lobby, Planet Fitness & Bingo

free tours of local lavender farms and a lavender market complete with arts and crafts and local lavender products and cooking demonstrations on the grounds of the Old Blanco County Courthouse. Visit for details.

Green in the Heart of Texas Keep Bastrop County Beautiful presents its 2nd Annual Heart of Texas Green Expo Friday, June 7 through Sunday, June 9 at the Bastrop County Convention Center. The expo aims to inspire eco-conscious individuals and businesses to move in a direction that is both ecologically viable and economically sound, and features speakers and educational sessions on the sustainable use of resources as well as related exhibits. Visit for more information.




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The responsibility of sustainability.

We believe in using locally sourced ingredients in our Culinary Arts and Pastry Arts Programs. We provide individualized hands-on instruction with the classic Escoffier foundation, The Farm To TableÂŽ Experience, and a focus on sustainability. Visit our campus and learn more about our professional programs today. 6020-B Dillard Circle Austin, Texas 78752 Ph: 512-451-5743 / For more information about our graduation rates, the median debt of students who completed the program, and other important information, please visit

CULINARY ADVENTURES Team-building exercises, hands-on cooking lessons and fully catered events for food enthusiasts utilizing the school’s 9,000 square foot garden, commercial kitchens, and dining room.

For more information, contact: Special Events Manager, Nancy Marr 512-451-5743 / nmarr @

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notable EDIBLES


Resettling america


hirty-six years ago, Wendell Berry published The Unsettling of America: Culture and Agriculture—exposing the cultural and

ecological ravages of industrial agriculture and calling for a revival of small, diversified family farming. This past April, the Berry Center, established in 2011 to perpetuate the Berry family legacy, held its first conference, with the theme of “What Will It Take to Resettle America?” Executive director of the center, Mary Berry—the daughter of Wendell and his wife, Tanya—presided at the conference, held in

Twin County Lamb

Louisville, Kentucky. Attendance was limited to 300, and advance tickets sold quickly to people from throughout the U.S. and beyond. More than 25 speakers made up the program, including Berry himself, Bill Moyers, Bill McKibben, Wes Jackson, Fred Kirschenmann, Vandana Shiva and, by prerecorded video, Charles, Prince of Wales. photo by Jody Horton

They focused on what is required to “resettle America” and other places with sustainable farming, and explored land-use and farmand-food policies, full accounting for the costs of food production and distribution, finance and investment for local food systems and interdisciplinary degree programs in small farming and related subjects at academic institutions.


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To underscore the Berry Center’s own commitment to interdisciplinary agrarian education, the final day of the conference took place at St. Catharine College, which dates back to 1823 with a school established by the Kentucky Sisters of St. Dominic in the small community of St. Catharine, about 50 miles southeast of Louisville. Here, in partnership with the college, which was founded in 1931, the Berry Center has created the Berry Farming and Ecological Agrarianism program, which inaugurates its BS and BA programs this fall. Other institutions vied for this partnership, but the Berrys were drawn to St. Catharine largely by the Dominican Sisters’ continuing history of

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farming and dedication to the community. The farm at St. Catharine College is the oldest Dominican Sisters farm in the U.S. It was initially devoted to vegetables, flax and sheep, but while today’s sisters still grow vegetables, their main product has been beef since the 1960s—providing for Dominican Sisters throughout Kentucky and the U.S. The farm has grown to 800 acres, and encompasses not only vegetable fields and livestock pastures but also woodland and other wildlife habitats. The conference ended with a walk around the farm as Farm Manager Steve Smith, a lifelong Kentucky farmer, and Leah Bayens, assistant professor of English and coordinator of the agrarian curriculum, spoke about implementing the program. Ending the conference at the farm complemented the beginning of

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the conference, which was a choral celebration of selected Berry poems by the Voces Novae ensemble in Louisville’s Cathedral of the Assumption. The concert made audible the beauty and power of art, and the farm illuminated the greater beauty and power of the earth, for it—Berry reminds us in his writings—nourishes all living things, and


we are bound to reciprocate, with love and affection.—Pamela Walker EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM



Double trouble


oasted-to-order Brazilian coffee and strong Belgian-style ale may appear to fall at opposite ends of the craft-beverage spectrum,

but master roaster Joel Shuler, owner of Casa Brasil, and brewmaster Jordan Weeks, owner of South Austin Brewing Company (SABC), prove them to be a perfect pairing at their monthly Up & Down Tour—a fun, industry-level look inside the raw materials, production and tastes associated with these world-class beverages. “Both of us share a passion for the technical side and the geeky side of things, so this is a very in-depth class,” says Shuler. The four-hour tour, which takes place amid the roasters and various beer-brewing vessels of these neighboring South Austin businesses, is rich with history and technical detail. Stories range from the legend of the Ethiopian herder Kaldi and his caffeinated dancing goats to the tales of Belgian monks placing pans of sweet liquid wort on their rooftops to capture the airborne yeast (a special Belgian strain that creates a distinctly flavored beer with a high alcohol content). “Belgium is unique in that the Saccharomyces strain that was in the air is very alcohol tolerant,” notes Weeks. “So it could go all the way to eight, nine, ten percent alcohol before it died of alcohol poisoning. It also produces very fruity esters. When it’s metabolized with sugars, it produces banana and clove flavors that are very unique.” The tours are also experience based. For example, Shuler encourages tour goers to smell, touch and examine the coffee beans at a variety of roasting levels, including “first crack” (the point at which the bean’s cell structure begins to



rupture as it expands), “production roast” (a light, sweet roast with the bean’s acidity detectable) and a dark, pungent French roast. Up & Down participants gain a firsthand understanding of the

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passable, the awful and the sublime versions of both coffee and beer.

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For instance, awful frequently means a coffee brewed with unripe, broken or otherwise defective beans, while sublime might be the nuanced

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acidity and sweetness of Fazenda Recreio, a naturally processed arabica bean coffee of the Yellow Bourbon variety that Casa Brasil offers. “A lot of times we get comments in the class that it doesn’t even taste like coffee because it doesn’t have that charred flavor,” Shuler explains. “With its fruit flavor, it tastes more like a tea….It is very complex.” Tour goers also get to try one or both of SABC’s two beers: their Belgian Style Golden Ale, a fruity, gently effervescent drink; and the Saison D’Austin, a rich farmhouse-style seasonal beer with hints of pepper. The ales are available both on tap and in hand-corked 750-milliliter bottles, which are naturally carbonated through bottle conditioning. This kind of artisanal brewing allows people to experience the world-class beers of Belgium right here in town. Weeks and Shuler are quick to point out that the tour is much more than just an open house. Uchi host Christina Fallara, who attended the tour to gain a deeper understanding of the Casa Brasil coffee that her restaurant serves, agrees. “The whole thing took like five hours, but I would say it flew by,” says Fallara. “We had to drag ourselves away to get to work because the presenters were so fun and knowledgeable. It was just a great afternoon.”—Nicole Lessin For details, visit




Local Made Easy


n French, coterie means a gathering of like-minded people, and it’s fitting that a home-delivery business offering wares from lo-

cal artisans would take its name from the word. “I really liked the meaning behind it,” says founder Chelsea Staires. “It fits this effort to support local businesses and bring together people who are making quality local products.” Looking for some baked-to-order ciabatta from Easy Tiger, a jar of preserves from Confituras or a screen-printed apron from Fisk & Fern? Coterie Market has you covered, and the beauty is you don’t even have to leave home. Staires knew that Austin had a large demographic of consumers with the income and desire to buy quality local products, but with limited time. Coterie Market helps connect these buyers with local Photography courtesy of Coterie Market

producers by offering convenient online ordering and a two-business-day delivery turnaround for all merchandise—modeled after the popular Amazon Prime program. But unlike the staggeringly inclusive and often daunting Amazon model, Staires prefers to limit and curate her inventory by hand-selecting the very best options for each category. “I could offer twenty-seven different types of coffee, but I only offer one,” she says. “It’s important to me that I like and would use everything we offer.” And although foodstuffs make up about half of the inventory, the market also offers jewelry and art—everything from photo greeting cards to stamped kitchen towels—as well as candles, soaps and tinctures. The essential thread is that everything is made locally. “I love supporting the local market and buying from artisans where things are one of a kind,” says Staires. “I wanted to make it easier for people to do that without running all over town.” Coterie Market also acts as an advocate for local artisans—helping them market their products to a customer base. Steve Lawrence of the Chocolate Makers Studio says Staires helped raise the profile

or certain types of leather. And that’s beside the fact that they’re

of his business by taking care of some of the marketing for him.

great and delicious and fantastic quality.” That’s really what Coterie

“She realizes that what we do isn’t mass-produced, that we can’t

Market is all about: helping people to support quality local prod-

just pull it off a shelf,” says Lawrence. “She gives me the time and

ucts so that they don’t disappear.—Lauren Walz Find out more at

space to work.” In a marketplace that’s becoming increasingly global, as well as driven by cost and speed of delivery, Coterie Market helps local makers compete. “These are precious things, and things that, in some cases, you can only find here,” says Staires, “like mayhaw jelly

Coterie offerings (clockwise from upper left): Amity Bakery cinnamon raisin loaf, Dai Due pickled carrots, Fisk & Fern bacon apron, Texas Medicinals Blueberry Cordial.

proudly printing for austin’s food industries Specialty Foods • Deli & Meat Beer, Wine & Spirits • Produce Coffee, Tea & Spices • Fast Food Bakery & Confectionery • Retail

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New Keg on the Block


ecause of Austin’s extra-sultry climate, master roaster Mike McKim of Cuvée Coffee has always known that if coffeehouses

want to keep the lights on during the summer, they need to have a solid plan for their cold-brewed offerings. That’s why five years ago, he began to encourage his clients to sell cold-brewed coffee from a beer tap…to no avail. “Nobody did it,” he says. “Nobody listened to us.” McKim had first seen this concept used with a Frappuccino-like beverage in Colorado years earlier and was excited by the idea, but admits that he hasn’t always been a fan of cold-brewed coffees. “For me, cold coffees all tasted the same—they were one-note,” McKim says. “They were really heavy-bodied and chocolaty, which was fine, but there was no dynamic in the coffee.” But he still wanted to attempt a kegged coffee, and hoped to be able to somehow produce a more complex-tasting cold brew. After some experimentation, Cuvée’s professional barista Lorenzo Perkins came up with the “hot bloom, cold brew” method—a technique of first hitting the coffee with hot water, letting it de-gas for a few minutes and then dousing it with cold water for the rest of the brewing time. “What that does,” McKim says, “is allow all those solubles that don’t come out with cold water, particularly the acidity, to come out with hot water for a more complex drink.” The innovation didn’t end there. To accommodate larger batches and achieve better saturation, the Cuvée research team recently started brewing their coffee in a 100-gallon lauter tun that they pur-

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chased from a microbrewery in Michigan. They also began infusing the brew with nitrogen to create a cold coffee with a one-of-a-kind look and taste. “When it’s nitrogenated, you get that Guinness effect where a foam kind of forms on top and it cascades,” says McKim, who had an epiphany about adding the nitrogen after trying Colorado-based Left Hand Brewing Company’s Milk Stout Nitro for the first time. “It gets that creamy mouthfeel and texture, and that’s really crucial. That’s a huge differentiating point.” These days, Cuvée’s five-gallon kegs range in price from about $50 to $168 for a limited-supply, single-origin coffee. Regular keg buyers include independent coffeehouses, special-event organizers and even bars that are serving the coffee spiked with everything from lager to rhubarb liqueur. In fact, demand for the product has been so great that larger keg sizes are now available, and there are plans to build a 2,500-square-foot facility at Cuvée’s roastery in Spicewood dedicated exclusively to the microbrewery-style enterprise. McKim isn’t surprised that Cuvée’s kegged-coffee concept has caught on. “The consumer advantage is, it’s a much more approachable drink than an espresso or brewed coffee,” he says. “From the retailer’s perspective, there’s no training involved; you teach someone how to pull a tap handle.” But according to McKim, there’s one other important factor to consider, as well. “Getting a glass of coffee out of a beer tap…is just cool.”—Nicole Lessin Cuvée Coffee Retail and bar: 1912 E. Seventh St. (inside Salt & Time Butcher Shop) 512-522-7258

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A Reminder of the Time



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lack of passed-down wisdom regarding the many tips, hints, tricks and timing about gardening can be one of the biggest

hurdles faced by new and experienced growers alike. “Traditionally, that has come from parents, grandparents or a gardening mentor,” says veteran gardener Don Zeidler, the director of direct marketing for W. Atlee Burpee & Co., the nation’s largest seed supplier. “But you don’t always have access to that.” Luckily, the Pennsylvania-based company recently introduced the Garden Time Planner, a free app for the iPhone, Android and tablet devices to help streamline the gardening process. After you download the app, create a free account, enter

your zip

code and choose which plants you want to include in your garden, the app generates a task list and gives reminders about when to sow, transplant and harvest based on your particular region. The Garden Time Planner also includes links to videos that provide tips on how to grow particular plants, including suggested soil conditions and more. “You could use a book,” Zeidler notes, “but that would be another thing you’d have to carry around, whereas everybody carries a phone already. Also, a book isn’t going to remind you that next week you should start your tomato seeds.”


App founders say the planner was created in response to a spike


in interest in gardening and the expansion of seed varieties avail-

At the Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center

able. “In recent years,” says Burpee Chairman and CEO George Ball,

June 13, 20, 27 and July 11, 18, 25

Jr., “we have seen thousands of first-time home gardeners planting vegetable gardens to both control the quality of the food they put

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tered in supermarkets. Even well-seasoned veteran gardeners were inquiring about growing conditions for the many new items introduced each gardening season.” This summer, the company plans to roll out upgrades to the app,

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including the addition of flowers to their database as well as subvarieties of different vegetables and herbs. And while the Garden Time Planner was mainly designed for novice gardeners, it can also

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benefit seasoned horticulturalists as well, notes Zeidler, who used the automatic reminders this year to know when to plant his peppers and tomatoes indoors. “Even for experienced gardeners like myself, this just takes all the guesswork out of it,” he says. “It’s like

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Natural and Sustainable. Lone Star Foodservice is committed to promoting sustainable agriculture and humanely raised livestock through our partnerships with local farms, ranches and chefs. We source and deliver the finest cuts of natural beef, pork and lamb to tables across Texas.

Angus cattle grazing at Windy Bar Ranch, Stonewall TX

CEO and third generation butcher

Windy Bar Ranch Stonewall, Texas

Austin | Dallas | Fort Worth | Houston | San Antonio 20



1403 East 6th Street, Austin, TX • 512-646-6218 •


in.gredients by Jessica Dupuy • Photography by Andy Sams

Brothers (left to right): Joseph, Christian and Patrick Lane. (Far right): Interior aisles feature self-service bulk goods.


veryone has a soft spot for the local neighborhood corner

In.gredients’ shelf offerings and business model are no accident.

store—the place to grab a quick staple or two, where you feel

When brothers Christian, Joseph and Patrick Lane—along with busi-

safe letting your kids wander the aisles without getting too far

ness partners Christopher Pepe and Brian Nunnery—designed the

from sight and where the check-out person likely knows you by name.

store, they wanted to provide more than a simple neighborhood gro-

But many in our community would agree that it’s an immeasurable

cer; they wanted to make a difference. Building on ideas from the likes

bonus if that corner store also happens to be a popular neighborhood

of acclaimed sustainable food-centric author Michael Pollan, the team

hangout, a contributor to a local Community Supported Agriculture

followed the model of re-creating a shopping experience that our

(CSA) program and designed with strict adherence to low waste and

grandmothers (or even great-grandmothers) might recognize.

sustainability. Well, that’s exactly what in.gredients is all about.

“We wanted to do groceries differently,” says Christian. “We en-

Entering the East Side store, visitors catch on quickly. The refrig-

courage people to bring their own containers and weigh their in-

erated cases are awash with marbled cuts of beef from Bastrop Cattle

gredients at our weight station. They can see what they’ve got in

Company, plump chickens from Windy Meadows Family Farm and

the container, what they’ve had in the container and how they’ve

fresh milks and cheeses from our many nearby dairy farmers. Down

reduced their overall waste of product over time.”

the first aisle is a collection of oversized metal barrels housing nat-

According to Christian’s research, 40 percent of what the av-

ural liquid soaps, nut butters and oils. There’s a fresh deli case and

erage consumer buys goes to waste—beginning with the produc-

a back counter of prepared foods packed with pizzas from East Side

tion and packaging of food, to the packages in the grocery store,

Pies, Easy Tiger breads and tasty treats from Miles of Chocolate, to

to what goes to waste in our own pantries and freezers. By cut-

name a few. There’s a tap station with a rotation of local beers, Wun-

ting out the conventional packaging system, a lot of that waste

der-Pilz kombucha, Third Coast Coffee Roasting Company cold brew

goes away. “We want people to understand what they’ve got in

and Texas wines from Pedernales Cellars. Other aisles feature large

their pantry to help them reduce their waste and maximize what

containers of grains, nuts, baking basics and dried goods. Purposely

they’re buying,” says Christian. Of course, if a customer should

absent, though, are most of the prepackaged goods normally found

stumble in without their own containers, they can purchase reus-

in the average supermarket.

able containers in the store and use them again on their next visit. EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM



“We really wanted to have a community space. But also a place where people can learn about food and where it comes from.” —Christian Lane Of the various products provided at in.gredients, the vast majority come from Central Texas. “We source as local as possible,” Christian says. “When we can’t find local producers, we try to find a responsible alternative. But lately we’ve tracked ninety-eight percent local on produce, more than sixty percent in dairy and sixty-nine percent in the cost of goods sold overall, whether food or nonfood.” But in.gredients goes beyond just selling local products. They work with the local producers to encourage and promote them, as well—everything from hosting special evening events that spotlight producers and vendors to working with many of the smaller suppliers to get them up to speed with basic business-accounting systems to facilitate better transactional processes. “We see this as a way to help bring new opportunities to newer producers who are just getting their goods on the market,” Christian says. “But it’s a lot to manage on our own. We have some challenges in finding new vendors, and there’s a lot to keep organized from logistics on deliveries to billing consistency and helping foster the different levels of business maturity among the vendors.” And the dedication to promoting local products spills out the


doors of in.gredients, as well—to the community picnic tables in the front, to the kids’ playscape and to the garden. “We really wanted to have a community space,” says Christian. “But also a place where

Experience TRACE, showcasing the finest locally

people can learn about food and where it comes from. We partnered

sourced and foraged flavors from the region’s

with Urban Patchwork to make a community garden here. People

surrounding farms. Sleek and sophisticated, Trace is

who are part of the Cherrywood Neighborhood Urban Patchwork

committed to creating an enriching culinary experience by fusing the local personality of Austin with a commitment to socially responsible food. Featuring Chef de Cuisine Lawrence Kocurek & James Beard Award nominated, Executive Pastry Chef Janina O’Leary

CSA help keep up our garden and take a large portion of its yield. In exchange, we’re able to sell a little bit of what’s leftover.” As in.gredients continues to grow in its current community, it’s possible that Austin could see other locations pop up in the future. But not before the founding team feels it has solidified its purpose first. “We want to get a solid foundation on what we’re doing here at this location before we think about expanding,” Christian says. “But we’d eventually love to effect this type of change in other parts of Austin, as well.” That’s something the corner-store fan in all of us can look forward to.


in.gredients 2610 Manor Rd. 512-275-6357




Our Summer Fling Whiskey & Honey our round rock bee keeper cocktail is made with 100% local, true wildflower honey produced by round rock honey and texas’ rebecca creek whiskey

Sun-Thurs 11am to 10pm | Fri-Sat 11am to 11pm | Sunday Brunch 10am-2pm Oak Hill 7720 Highway 71 West, Austin, TX 78735 | 512.852.8558 Round Rock 2500 Hoppe Trail, Round Rock, TX 78681 | 512.215.0372







melting pot

MichElada by Claudia Alarcón • Photography by Whitney ARostEgui


dding a squeeze of fresh lime

to ease a previous night’s overindul-

and a dash of salt to light lagers

gence—and adding Bloody Mary mix

or pilsners has been a tradi-

to a michelada is definitely a north-ofthe-border adaptation.)

tion across Mexico for decades. But in the 1980s, the Mexicans’ penchant for

In Austin, Ranch 616 was one of the

slightly salty-sour flavored beer evolved

first non-Mexican restaurants to fea-

one step further into a full-fledged

ture the refreshing aperitif, and still

beer-based drink known as a michelada.

serves its Michelada Negra made with

There are a few theories behind the

Negra Modelo beer. And many others

name and origin of the drink. Many

have followed suit. The bar at Hotel

maintain it’s merely a contraction of the

San José offers a Cubana-style miche-

phrase “mi chela helada,” Spanish for

lada made with freshly squeezed lime

“my ice-cold beer” (chela is Mexican

juice and Worcestershire and Tabas-

slang for beer). A more elaborate and

co sauces topped with freshly ground

widely believed account, though, says

pepper, and El Chile Café & Cantina’s

the libation was created at the bar of the

house michelada is served in a frosty

Club Deportivo Potosino in the state of

goblet with a generous rim of their se-

San Luis Potosi, where club member

cret salt-and-chili spice mix.

Michel Esper liked his beer served over

Downtown newcomer El Ceviche

ice and seasoned generously with lime

Grill features three variations of the

juice and salt. Eventually, other club

drink on its menu—including one

members started asking for the drink—

cradling fresh oysters and poached

calling it “Michel’s lemonade”—until it

shrimp. And the East Side’s Tako-

finally came to be known as a michelada (or sometimes simply a

ba serves an authentic, slow-food version where the bartenders


squeeze a whole lime into a large, frozen goblet, rub the rim vigor-

The popularity of the drink swept across Mexico and, thanks

ously with the lime halves to leave as much pulp as possible then

to the influx of immigrants, finally made its way into the U.S. To-

shake salt directly over the pulp while turning the glass to salt the

day, even beer behemoth Anheuser-Busch sells its own premade

whole rim. Once the glass is ready, a shot of homemade michelada

version called the Budweiser Chelada. In Mexico, patrons can still

mix is added then topped with the frosty beer of your choice.

find micheladas made using only the three original ingredients, but

“A michelada should always be ice-cold,” says Takoba’s owner

many variations have evolved over the years, as well. In fact, many

Jose de Loera, the creator of their signature recipe. “We freeze the

bartenders boast of their own secret recipes. For example, a spicy

goblets so that when you pour the beer in, it forms ice crystals.

variation known as a michelada Cubana is made with varying com-

That way, it remains cold longer without having to add ice, which

binations of Maggi Seasoning (available in Asian or Mexican gro-

would dilute the beer.” Freezing the glass also helps the lime pulp

ceries), Worcestershire sauce, soy sauce, bottled hot sauce, liquid

stick. “That way you get the taste of fresh lime with every sip,” he

chamoy (a Mexican pickled-fruit sauce), cayenne pepper, powdered

says. “It requires a lot of work and takes longer to prepare, but I

chili and black pepper. But contrary to popular belief, Clamato and

think it’s well worth it.”

tomato-juice mixes were never used as traditional michelada in-

Folks in Mexico believe there’s a michelada recipe for every beer

gredients in Mexico. (There, a beer cocktail made with Clamato is

drinker, which may very well be true. Here are a few recipes to get

known as Clamato con cerveza—a popular cantina offering that’s

you started on the path to your own custom michelada concoction.

perfect on a hot afternoon or as a tried-and-true morning remedy




BASIC Michelada Makes 1 drink 1 lime, halved 1 t. kosher salt 1 cold lager of your choice Ice

Rub the cut lime on the rim of a tall glass. Put the salt on a shallow plate and dip the glass in the salt to coat the rim. Add a few ice cubes and squeeze the rest of the lime into the glass. Pour in the beer and stir gently. Variations: To the salt, add ¼ t. ground chile piquín, Thai chili or cayenne pepper. To season the beer, add any of the following, or a combination, to taste: Maggi Seasoning, Worcestershire sauce, soy sauce, liquid chamoy or bottled hot sauce.

Willy’s Michelada Cubana Courtesy of Willy Larson Makes 1 drink This is my husband Willy’s take on the cocktail. It’s a fantastic, lighter alternative to a Bloody Mary for brunch or served with seafood cocktail on a warm Austin afternoon. For the salt: 1 t. kosher salt ¼ t. ground chile piquín Pinch of sugar Pinch of freshly ground black pepper

For the drink: Juice of 1 lime 2–3 dashes Maggi Seasoning Dash of Valentina, to taste 1 cold beer

Rub the edge of a chilled tall glass with the cut lime and dip in the salt to coat the rim. Add the rest of the ingredients to the glass and pour in the beer to mix well.

Asian Michelada Courtesy of Ben Craven Makes 1 drink Ben Craven, former beverage director at Lamberts, Elizabeth St. Café and Clark’s Oyster Bar, first prepared this michelada version from behind the bar at Starlite. The flavor of Sriracha definitely adds a twist. Ben recommends using a nice, light beer like Asahi Super Dry. ½ of a lime Kosher salt ¼–½ oz. Sriracha sauce, to taste ¼ oz. soy sauce ¼ oz. Worcestershire sauce Pinch of black pepper Pinch of minced garlic 1 cold beer

Rub the edge of a chilled tall glass with the cut lime and dip in the salt to coat the rim. Add the rest of the ingredients (including lime juice) to the glass and pour in the beer to mix well. 26



Texans make the



PAULA’S MARGARITA 1 oz. Paula’s Texas Orange 1 oz. premium tequila ½ oz. water ½ oz. fresh-squeezed lime juice

Mix ingredients. To serve martini-style, shake with ice and strain into chilled margarita glass. Also delicious served over ice!

w w w. Pau lasTexasSpi ri ts.c om EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM



Edible waters

Philly Seafood by Terry Thompson-Anderson • Photography by Sandy Wilson


ounded in 1909, Palacios is a sleepy little fishing village on the Texas Gulf Coast, southwest of Houston. The town is sustained by a thriving port, which covers some 600 acres, and is home to a fleet of over 200 commercial shrimp boats—earning it the designation of Shrimp Capital of Texas. Much of the shrimp and crabmeat sold wholesale from the Texas coast is brought ashore in Palacios—over seven million tons of shrimp in 2012 alone. The town is also the lifelong home of Edward Garcia, Sr. and his wife, Antonia. Edward’s livelihood has always been the Gulf—beginning with the oyster boats he worked on as a very young man. He eventually ventured into shrimping and worked his way up to boat captain. In 1952, the Garcias bought their own shrimp boat—a wooden-hull trawler they named Texas 18, the first in the waters of Matagorda Bay to be owned by an Hispanic family. Shortly after setting up their operation, though, the boat was destroyed in a suspected act of ethnic violence. Deciding that the best thing to do was to keep moving forward, the Garcias regrouped, and within six months purchased a second boat, Texas 1. The family business grew in the mid-1980s, at a time when many shrimpers were being forced out of business by the rising costs of operating the boats. The Garcias’

four sons and their sons’s sons soon came onboard—becoming boat owners and expanding the company. In 2002, the Garcias’ son Kenneth, along with daughter Regina Garcia Peña, joined together with the idea to streamline the family’s individual shrimp-boat operations into one, better-organized business. Kenneth wanted to pursue a direction that not only reflected the family’s fundamental principles of integrity, quality and service, but which highlighted a dedication to sustainable operating practices as well. Brother Anthony and Edward Sr. joined the partnership, and Philly Seafood (named in honor of Regina’s young son who had passed away) was formed. Regina was determined to change the way the company did business—from simply selling shrimp to developing an actual brand that represented their values, hard work and dedication. “Our parents taught their thirteen children that the most valuable thing a person owns is their good name,” says Regina. “Our name is everything to us.” Today, Edward and Antonia have four sons, two daughters, four nephews and many grandsons actively involved in the family business, and Philly Seafood is one of the largest privately owned shrimping groups in the United States. They count 30 trawlers under their umbrella, each with the capacity to hold 70,000 pounds of shrimp. To maintain complete control over their product from

A28 version SUMMER of this article 2013appears EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM in Terry Thompson-Anderson’s upcoming book, Texas Terroir: Celebrating the Flavors of the Lone Star State, published by UT Press.

the net to the consumer, Philly Seafood processes 98 percent of their shrimp locally in Port Lavaca, a short 23 miles from where the boats dock. The company directly employs 130 to 140 people, plus many more in the accessory ripple effect—net makers, fuel providers, engine mechanics and more—and an additional 100 people at the processing plant. The company is now a recognized and respected brand in the retail and wholesale seafood landscape across the U.S. Success and growth aside, the family’s dedication to respecting the Gulf waters remains unwavering. “We now use lighter webbing in our nets,” says Regina. “And the once huge and heavy wooden doors on the nets have been redesigned into smaller, lighter ones—practices designed to make the boats more fuel efficient.” The family and their employees remain mindful of the delicate balance that exists between the ocean and its creatures. “Our extended family thinks of themselves as family farmers,” Regina says. “Only our farm is the Gulf of Mexico and our crop is shrimp. We’ve had good years and bad years. [But] our father’s tireless work ethic and neversay-die spirit, and our mother’s endless support and encouragement, [have] been the foundation for our family’s success throughout the difficult and changing shrimp industry.”

(Above, left to right): Edward Garcia Sr., Regina Garcia Peña, Kenneth Garcia, Edward Garcia Jr. and Anthony Garcia

Shrimping in Texas

The Life Cycle of a Shrimp

by MM Pack


he Texas Gulf Coast waters teem with wildlife and serve as a marine playground for many, even as the adjacent petrochemical


hree types of shrimp are harvested in the Texas Gulf waters: brown shrimp (Penaeus aztecus), white shrimp (P. setiferus) and pink

and refinery towers loom and tankers and container ships ply the wa-

shrimp (P. duorarum). Most shrimp do not survive longer than two

terways—reminding us of the significance that oil and international

years and are thought of as an annual crop. As long as factors like water

commerce have in the region’s identity and economy. It’s a textbook

quality, temperature and salinity are favorable, shrimp multiply copi-

example of what cultural historian Leo Marx calls “the machine

ously and grow fairly fast. Newly hatched shrimp enter estuaries in

in the garden”—the intersection of technology, culture and nature.

February and March to settle in their nursery habitats.

Shrimp have long played a role in this formula, and harvesting

Female shrimp spawn in the Gulf at around six months of age—

them has long been a way of life along the Texas coast and into

releasing hundreds of thousands of eggs that hatch within 24 hours.

the Gulf. Nineteenth-century shrimpers set seine nets along coastal

Babies ride currents back to the shore, to estuaries where they feed

shores and used horses to pull them in. After World War II, surplus

in tidal creeks and marshlands until they grow to about three to five

military diesel engines and improved refrigeration enabled shrimp

inches. At this point, they migrate into the bays and out to Gulf waters.

trawlers to drag huge nets, go out farther into the water and stay out

Following this seasonal cycle, Gulf shrimpers go after adult shrimp in

longer. Modern Gulf trawlers are expensive, well-equipped vessels

deep, outer waters, while bay shrimpers trawl for young shrimp in the

that stay out for weeks—freezing and holding thousands of pounds

shallow bays. Because the life cycle of the shrimp usually ends within

of shrimp. In the bays, smaller boats leave port before dawn and

12 to 18 months, the Gulf is closed to shrimping for two months each

trawl until afternoon—returning with the catch daily.

year, beginning on May 15th, to protect the juveniles inshore so that

Like farming and ranching, shrimping has traditionally been

they may grow to a larger, more marketable commercial size.

family legacy work, and the independent-minded shrimpers have often been called “cowboys of the sea.” And, as has been the case for the family farmer and rancher, the situation for shrimpers has drastically changed over the past decades because of a combination of many factors. The bay is a common resource among many interest groups; commercial fishermen and shrimpers are often the least powerful and least organized.

Brown shrimp are the most abundant of the Gulf shrimp species—

Fifty years ago, more than half of the shrimp in U.S. markets

averaging 60 to 70 percent of total Gulf production. They have a bold,

were caught wild in the Gulf. Now, 90 percent are imported from

robust flavor, and are most often harvested offshore by large trawlers

overseas shrimp farms. The Texas Department of Agriculture re-

in deep waters. Brown shrimp can be found throughout the Gulf year-

ports that a low of 1.4 billion pounds to a high of about 1.7 billion

round, with the peak season from May through September.

pounds of shrimp are imported to the U.S. each year, mainly from Southeast Asian countries, followed by Ecuador and Mexico. (Total U.S. landings, including Gulf, Atlantic and Pacific, come in at around 200 million pounds per year, with the Gulf accounting for a very high percentage of the domestic volume.) This is an enormous In 1996, there were 7,500 shrimpers on the Texas Gulf Coast;

White shrimp were the first species of commercially important

today there are fewer than half that. Fewer boats paired with in-

shrimp in the U.S., with recorded fishery dates back to 1709. Prized

creased consumer demand for shrimp has led retailers to turn to

for their larger size, tender meat and mild, sweet flavor, white shrimp

the cheaper overseas-farmed shrimp, and caused price deflation for

are harvested during the day close to shore in the bays, mostly by

local wild-caught shrimp. Growth of tourism, recreational fishing

smaller, shallow draft boats. Peak season for white shrimp lasts from

and coastal property gentrification all generate change. And hurri-

May through November.

canes, drought, oil-spill contaminations and even recent mandates to install turtle excluder devices in shrimpers’ nets to save endangered turtle species cause acute stresses. Ultimately, for Gulf shrimping to continue to be a viable industry where future shrimpers can command prices high enough to make a living, enforcement and change in international trade policies and internal laws are needed. This includes higher tariffs for subsidized farmed-shrimp imports, banning chemicals in imports and accounting for environmental degradation by such shrimp farms. Then domestic wild-caught shrimp could compete on a

Pink shrimp are the largest of the Gulf shrimp species and are

more level playing field, and the proud local shrimping tradition

known for their sweet, tender texture. They are most abundant in

can be preserved for coming generations.

waters near Florida, but also inhabit Texas Gulf waters.




Artwork courtesy of Texas Department of Agriculture

discrepancy of domestic shrimp versus imported.

Brooklyn Silver Anniversary Lager 1988-2013

It’s been a long and, at times, bumpy road. But now more people than ever are able to enjoy Brooklyn beers all over the world. Throughout the years, some of the friends we’ve made have risen to artistic fame. We could think of no better way to celebrate our 25th anniversar y than to partner with Fred Tomaselli, Roxy Paine, Joe Amrhein and Elizabeth Crawford, all of whom agreed to contribute art to grace the labels of a Silver Anniversary Lager. Our celebrated Brewmaster Garrett Oliver crafted a double bock version of our first beer, Brooklyn Lager, to commemorate the anniversary. This second label features Joe Amrhein’s piece, A Fallibility of Perception. We’ll be rolling out the next two throughout 2013. Cheers!

Steve Hindy, co-founder and president The Brooklyn Brewery 79 N 11th St, Brooklyn, NY 11249 • • • @BrooklynBrewery •

811 West Live Oak 512-444-4747

Purchase or lease any new (previously untitled) Subaru and receive a complimentary factory scheduled maintenance plan for 2 years or 24,000 miles (whichever comes first.) See Subaru Added Security Maintenance Plan for intervals, coverages, and limitations. Customer must take delivery before 1-4-2014 and reside within the promotional area. At participating dealers only. See dealer for program details and eligibility.

Innovative cuisine in a majestic Texas setting




outdoor cooking

Fresh from the Grill by Meredith Bethune • Photography by JODY HORTON





ummer’s lush bounty of produce practically begs for the grill. There, magic happens as whole peppers surrender to the flame—collapsing into a silky heap of candy-sweet

flesh—while eggplant and zucchini assume a satisfying smokiness typically reserved only for meat. Cooking over fire offers more visual drama, too, yet still produces a quick, inexpensive and sat-

isfying dinner. Of course, hovering over a hot grill might not be an ideal activity during our sweltering summers, but it sure beats heating up the kitchen. Grilling vegetables isn’t much different from grilling a hamburger, really. Like meat, vegetables should be sized appropriately for optimum grilling and seasoned aggressively with salt and pepper. If they’re to be sliced, cut them into large enough pieces to prevent them from falling through the grill grate. Skewering vegetable chunks is convenient, but the results are inferior because less surface area is directly exposed to the heat. Things like peppers and bok choy can be cut in half through the stem, and summer squash should be cut lengthwise, but separated into slices about 1/8- or ¼-inch thick. Eggplant and onions should be sliced into rounds, and hard root vegetables should be boiled for about 10 minutes and sliced when cool enough to handle before grilling (grilled sweet potato rounds make a unique appetizer when dipped in a favorite barbecue sauce or Asianstyle peanut sauce). Many choose to brush the vegetables with oil before grilling, but it’s easier (and more fun) to throw them into a bowl, swirl in a few glugs of olive oil, add some salt and pepper and toss everything with your hands until coated evenly. Fallen or trimmed pecan and oak wood (likely available in your yard or neighborhood) are the perfect vehicles for starting a fire in

the food. Using a chimney starter stuffed with newspaper is a good

Salad of Grilled Romaine, Red Peppers and Manchego Cheese with Sherry Vinaigrette

alternative method for igniting coals. You’ll lose out on some fun

Serves 4

the grill. Charcoal will work too, but avoid lighter fluid and other additives because the chemicals impart an unpleasant aftertaste to

and flavor using a gas grill, but it’s a trade-off for convenience’s sake. Regardless of the preferred method, the grill must be very hot to achieve that desirable smoky flavor—so hot that a hand held above the grate can only withstand the heat for a few seconds. When using a gas grill, preheat it for 10 to 15 minutes before cooking. A wood or charcoal fire should die down until just flames and ash-covered coals or logs remain—which takes at least 30 min-

For the vinaigrette: 2 T. minced shallot 2 T. sherry vinegar ¼ t. salt ½ t. freshly ground black pepper 6 T. olive oil

For the salad: 2 hearts of romaine 1 red bell pepper Olive oil 2 oz. Manchego cheese, cut into shards

utes. Of course, invariably there will be hot spots on the grill, so position long-cooking veggies like eggplant, sweet potatoes, onions

Light a gas or charcoal grill. In a small bowl, combine the shallot, vine-

and beets away from the hottest coals.

gar, salt and black pepper. Let stand for at least 15 minutes, then slowly

Grilling vegetables perfectly demands diligence and a few tools.

whisk in the oil. Set aside.

Long-handled tongs are useful for turning vegetables; spatulas are handy for flipping portobello mushrooms and eggplant rounds.

Cut each heart of romaine and the pepper in half, lengthwise (the root

Eyesight, however, is the best tool for judging when the food is

will keep the romaine together). Seed the pepper, then lightly drizzle

ready. Periodically check the veggie’s underside because there’s a

the cut sides of the romaine and pepper with olive oil. Cook the pepper

fine line between nicely browned and scorched. And consider the

halves on a hot grill until soft, then remove to a plate to cool. Grill the

heat of the fire, how close the food is to the heat and the thickness

romaine hearts, cut-side down, for 2 to 5 minutes, until seared. When

of the vegetables. Cooking over fire is a primal joy that engages all

cool enough to handle, chop the red pepper into strips. Sprinkle the

of the senses with the smell of the smoke, the sizzle of the flames

seared romaine, cut-side up, with red pepper strips and shards of the

and, hopefully, the vitality of a cold beer.

cheese. Dress with the sherry vinaigrette and serve. EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM



NopaliTOS Serves 4 4 thornless nopal cactus paddles 2 poblano peppers, sliced in half through the stem and seeded 1 white onion, sliced into rounds about ½-in. thick Olive oil

Salt and pepper, to taste ½ c. chopped cilantro Juice of 3 limes Corn tortillas Sour cream, queso fresco and hot sauce, for serving

Place the vegetables in a bowl and toss with olive oil, salt and pepper. Cook the vegetables on a hot grill until the peppers and cactus paddles are soft and the onions are blackened. Remove to a plate to cool. Once cooled a bit, slice the grilled vegetables into long strips. In a bowl, combine the strips with the cilantro, lime juice and more salt to taste, then toss to distribute evenly. Let the mixture stand at room temperature for at least 15 minutes. Serve the nopalitos with warm corn tortillas, sour cream, queso fresco and hot sauce.

Grilled Beet Stacks with Chèvre and Pecans Serves 4 as an appetizer 4 large beets, peeled 4 oz. chèvre, room temperature 1 T. milk 2 T. chopped pecans 1 T. minced chives 2 t. minced fresh thyme

1 t. minced fresh rosemary ½ t. ground black pepper Olive oil Salt and pepper, to taste Juice of 1 lemon

Place the beets in a pot and cover with salted water. Bring to a rapid boil, then reduce the heat to a simmer. Cook the beets until they can be pierced with a fork—about 10 to 15 minutes. Drain and set aside until cool enough to handle. In a bowl, combine the chèvre, milk, pecans, herbs and black pepper. Stir until well combined and set aside. Slice each beet into 3 or 4 horizontal rounds about ¼- to ½-inch thick. In a small bowl, combine the beet slices with a bit of olive oil, salt, pepper

Portobello Mushroom Burgers

and the lemon juice. Toss to coat evenly. Using tongs, place the beets

Serves 4 as an appetizer

minutes per side. Remove the beets to a plate and let cool. To assemble

4 portobello mushroom caps ½ c. olive oil ½ c. balsamic vinegar 3 cloves garlic, chopped 1 small yellow onion, diced 1 t. salt ½ t. ground black pepper 1 red bell pepper, sliced in half through the stem and seeded

1 small zucchini, sliced lengthwise into ¼-in. strips 4 oz. young fontina cheese, grated 12 basil leaves 4 hamburger buns, toasted

Place the mushroom caps in a shallow dish. Combine the olive oil, vinegar, garlic, onion, salt and pepper. Pour the marinade over the mushrooms and let stand at room temperature for 30 to 60 minutes. Light the grill while waiting. Place the mushrooms, red pepper and zucchini on a hot grill, and cook for about 10 minutes on each side. During the last 5 minutes of cooking, top each portobello with 1 ounce of the cheese and cover the grill until the cheese melts. Serve each mushroom topped with three basil leaves and slices of grilled pepper and zucchini on a toasted hamburger bun.




slices on a hot grill (avoiding the hottest spots) and cook for about 10 the stacks, spread about a 1½ teaspoons of the chèvre mixture on top of one beet slice. Place another beet slice on top, and then repeat until there are two or three layers of cheese and all four stacks are assembled.

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Join us for a day of exploration and discovery at our Artisans’ Market.

We’re supporting the local food community by showcasing growers and specialty food producers in our stores. Visit our Williams-Sonoma featured stores for details. Austin Arboretum Market Barton Creek Square First Colony Mall Houston Highland Village Houston Town & Country Village The Shops at La Cantera The Woodlands




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Edible endeavors

The Other White Milk by Kelly Yandell • Photography by JO Ann SANTAngelo


n an increasingly competitive and corporate-driven milk world,

B6, copper and selenium,” notes LeeAnne Carlson of Swede Farm

some Texas farmers are turning to the hardy, versatile goat for

goat dairy in Waller County. “But those are just numbers,” she adds.

their dairy production. Goats are famous for tolerating arid cli-

More important to her are the many lactose-intolerant customers

mates, and they browse instead of graze, which means that while

who say they are thrilled to be able to drink real milk for the first

they do like a variety of plants in their vicinity, they do not need, nor

time in decades.

want, vast expanses of rich grasses—making it possible to operate

Consumers might be warming up to goat’s milk, but in a state of

a successful dairy on a smaller piece of land. Goats are smaller and

26 million people, Swede Farm and Wateroak Farms are the only two

easier to manage than larger animals. “Our average female goat is

goat dairies licensed to sell pasteurized goat’s milk in retail outlets

a hundred and twenty-five pounds,” says Mark Burow of Wateroak

and farmers markets. And while out-of-state concerns do sell goat’s

Farms goat dairy in Robertson County. “You can move them, and

milk in retail stores, it’s of the ultra-pasteurized variety, which ne-

when one is sick, you can pick her up and take her to the barn and

gates many of the health benefits people seek from goat’s milk in the

treat her.” Not so with an 800-pound cow. And goats also have a

first place. “Low-temperature-pasteurized milk is a totally different

higher feed-to-milk conversion ratio and are known to have a pleas-

product from the ultra-pasteurized version,” says Swede Farm’s Tim

ant disposition. “Cows will kick your knees out,” Burow says.

Carlson (LeeAnne’s husband). When asked why there aren’t more

But in a dairy culture dominated by cow’s milk, many Texans have

goat’s milk dairies selling in the Texas marketplace, Tim points to

never even tasted goat’s milk. Or if they have, it may have been canned,

the costs of complying with state regulations, the time required to

powdered or ultra-pasteurized—processes that destroy the unique

build a large and regular clientele and one other factor that might

and clean taste of fresh goat’s milk. But a rise in goat’s milk’s populari-

not occur to the average consumer. “Unlike cows, goats are seasonal

ty, coupled with increasing availability, could change all of that.

breeders,” he says. “So at times, there is no goat milk at all.”

Cow’s milk and goat’s milk share a lot of similarities; however,

A goat dairy would need to have a rather large milk production

their differences are important. Goat’s milk has smaller fat particles

volume to justify complying with the layers of regulation imposed on

and a smaller curd, which make it easier to digest. Since it contains

retail sellers, but goat dairies tend to be smaller operations. If a farm

less of the sugar lactose than cow’s milk, many with lactose sensitiv-

milks only a dozen or so female goats, it might make more sense to

ities are still able to enjoy it. According to the American Dairy Goat

market raw milk. Raw goat’s milk falls under the same set of statutes

Association, goat’s milk contains more riboflavin and phosphorus

in Texas as raw cow’s milk. This means a customer must obtain the

than cow’s milk. And it’s also “higher in calcium, vitamin A, vitamin

milk at the farm from a farmer who has been licensed by the state to EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM




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sell raw milk. Yet, only 14 farms in Texas are currently licensed to sell raw goat’s milk at the farm to the public. And according to Tim, many of the licensed farms don’t consistently sell raw milk because of the seasonality issue and the fact that, at times, there just isn’t enough milk to sell, given the smaller sizes of the operations. Mark and Pam Burow of Wateroak Farms began producing goat’s milk for family consumption in 1992 and quickly learned just how prolific goats can be. Two mature female goats produced three female offspring, and within three short years, the farm had a herd of nearly 50 goats. Having grown attached to their animals, the couple began producing milk for sale. Formerly a building contractor, Burow now works on the farm full time, and the family produces both raw and pasteurized goat’s milk, as well as farmstead cheeses. He attributes the “funny” taste that some associate with goat’s milk to the way the product is handled. “We only handle the milk using glass and stainless steel,” he notes. While they bottle their milk for sale in new plastic containers, he contends that any reusable plastic containers such as buckets or tubing can retain fat particles that can throw off the flavor of all subsequent milk produced using those implements. “Goat milk will pick up flavors,” he says, and goat dairy farmers typically do not keep male goats near the milk-producing females because they give off powerful scents. To allay any preconceived notions about goat’s milk, educating consumers is key. LeeAnne says that many of their customers seek out goat’s milk for the first time because they’ve been advised to do so for the health benefits. At the farmers markets, some regard the potential taste of the milk with dread. “They’ll pick it up with a shudder,” she says. But most happily return in the following weeks for more, and ask the Carlsons if they’re sure that it’s goat’s milk they’re selling. The free samples at the markets help dispel any unfair assumptions as well. “We are educating the public one sip at a time,” LeeAnne says. Of course, the production, packaging and sale of goat’s milk aren’t necessarily in line with optimizing income from goat farming. There’s a much stronger market for cheeses and other value-added products made from the milk, like yogurt and kefir (a fermented milk drink made with kefir grains). Also, goat’s milk costs more than cow’s milk for consumers, leading some to become dissuaded from buying it even though they’re accustomed to paying more for goat’s milk cheeses and artisanal products. It’s a financial bind, but both Swede Farm and Wateroak Farms believe so strongly in the health benefits of drinking goat’s milk that they’re committed to reserving at least part of their total production as milk. “Our backbone is cheese; our passion is milk,” says Tim. Currently, both farms are operating with demand for their products outpacing supply, and both see a bright future in goat farming. “This is not a short-term fad,” says Burow. “This is a lasting trend. [Goat’s milk] is becoming much more widely accepted and sought out.” And, while there might not yet be a wide variety of goat’s milk options in your grocery store’s cooler, there are goat dairies in Texas providing high-quality milk. The next time you encounter fresh goat’s milk at the farmers market or hear about a goat dairy in your area, perhaps it is time to ask yourself, why not? For a list of local goat’s milk farms, visit EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM



Farmers Diary

Swede Farm by Layne Lynch • Photography by JO Ann SANTAngelo


hough it’s but an hour’s drive outside of Houston, the city of

in pension administration while LeeAnne worked as a midwife, but

Waller bears no resemblance to the fourth-largest city in the

as their family expanded, the couple craved a peaceful environment

nation. In fact, the quiet rural town is home to verdant acres

where their 12 homeschooled children could roam, play and thrive.

of land, varied breeds of livestock and resourceful family farms. One

The Carlsons’ original herd of goats was started by LeeAnne as a

of those agricultural operations goes by the name of Swede Farm

fresh-milk-for-the-family pet project. But it’s hard to keep something

and serves as the lifeblood and livelihood of the Carlson family. Yet

as pure and refreshing as good milk a secret for very long. In 2008,

the Carlsons never could have predicted how an unforeseen turn of

Swede Farm was granted a license to produce, pasteurize, bottle and

events would transform their modest family farm into a farm that

sell goat’s milk. Fast-forward to the present and the farm has become

feeds families.

one of the most respected and talked-about participants in the Austin

In July 2004, Tim and LeeAnne Carlson uprooted their suburban

and Houston farmers markets. “It’s a continual work in progress be-

Houston lives and moved their brood to a fertile plot of land with the

cause we never thought we’d be doing this,” says LeeAnne. “We start-

intention of cultivating crops of produce and raising herds of free-

ed out with milk saying we’d never do cheese, and here we are doing

range animals. Before fully transitioning to rural life, Tim worked

cheese. Even a year from now, I’m almost certain our business will




look nothing like it does now, but that’s the nature of this business.” The Swede Farm herd is made up of three breeds: Alpines, Nubians and LaManchas. From this trio, the Carlsons have nurtured, nursed and created an artisanal line of products that includes plain goat’s milk, Guittard chocolate milk, yogurt, kefir, plain chèvre, flavored chèvres and scented soaps. The creamy goods have become trusted ingredients for Austin and Houston chefs like Jack Gilmore, Bryce Gilmore, Paul Qui, Justin Yu and Chris Shepherd. And even though the cheese sells more than any of the other products do, the milk will always be the foundation of the business in Tim’s eyes. “If I were following a traditional business model, I’d probably drop the milk and only sell the cheeses,” he says. “But I’m not going to do that because goat milk literally changes people’s lives. There are people who drink it for health reasons, and there are even people who drink it for survival reasons [since] goat milk has healing properties. We feel like it’s important to make that type of product available for people to buy locally.” cause of their desire to focus only on sourcing quality, farm-fresh great to ignore, the family finally incorporated a satisfying line of fragrant, soft, full-bodied cheeses. Nowadays, flavors like savory garlic and chive, sweet lemon blueberry, crumbly feta and smoky chèvre have created near cultlike followings. The delicacies have become so popular, in fact, that there is almost always a preorder waiting list. In an attempt to manage the growing enterprise, the family began brainstorming ideas on how they could increase their product



goat’s milk. Yet when the demand for a Swede cheese became too


For years, the Carlsons avoided segueing into cheese simply be-

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availability without cutting any corners or lowering their high quality standards. That’s when the Cooperative Agricultural Research Center at Prairie View A&M University stepped in. Late last year, the Carlsons accepted a proposal that allows them to blend their goat’s milk with milk purchased from neighboring dairies through the research center. By incorporating the milk-blending process, the farm is now able to increase the availability of their cheeses and cut production costs. The Carlsons emphasize, though, that milk sold at markets will always be sourced from Swede Farm goats only. “We definitely had to wrestle with the idea,” says LeeAnne. “I think the reason we felt comfortable with the decision was because the center is designed to be an educational resource for other small farms and

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honest and say we thought there was a fair shot we’d be kicked out of the markets, because we’ve seen that happen before, but we were completely up front and honest about the change in our business model, and the response we’ve gotten from the market, chefs and our customers has been overwhelmingly supportive.” Swede Farm has evolved quite a bit over the years, and the Carl-

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sons continue to wonder what the future might have in store for them. That uncertainty may seem uncomfortable to some, but this 14-person family has always had their priorities in order and known how to manage affairs. “Family comes first,” LeeAnne says. “It started that way and will always remain that way.” Find Swede Farm at SFC Farmers Market—Sunset Valley and SFC

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Working with wine all day might seem like a dream job, but the certification process is grueling and requires candidates to know history, science, farming and culinary arts, among other disciplines.

(Left to right): Scott Ota, wine captain, The Driskill Grill; Paula Rester, wine director, Congress Austin; Devon Broglie, executive coordinator of purchasing, Whole Foods Market; June Rodil, general manager, Qui and East Side King; Mark Sayre, sommelier, Four Seasons Hotel Austin.





WINE GUIDES by Kristi Willis • Photography by Marc Brown


he grand ballroom of the Four Seasons Las Colinas, in Irving,

on their feet, a requisite skill to surviving the service portion of the

is packed and lessons in geology, geography, agriculture and

exam, where students say it’s not uncommon to have practical math

chemistry are flowing over the crowd. If not for the sets of

questions pop up (If I have two cases of wine and there’s a party of

wineglasses in front of each participant, it would be easy to mistake

30, what is the pour and how much are you going to charge?). “It’s

TEXSOM, the Texas Sommelier Conference, for a science sympo-

definitely one of the true unconquerable disciplines,” says sommeli-

sium. Certified and aspiring sommeliers attend this annual confer-

er Paula Rester, wine director at Congress Austin. “Just when I think

ence to hone the exacting art of helping customers choose the per-

I know something, I figure out how much I have left to learn.”

fect bottle or glass of wine. What most of those customers don’t realize, though, is how demanding and evolving this craft truly is.

Of course all of that hard work pays off when it’s time to work with customers and help them select the perfect wine. Jessica Du-

The stereotype of a sommelier as a pretentious, suited wine

puy, freelance food writer and certified sommelier, encourages wine

expert who intimidates patrons with the depth of their knowledge

lovers to have a conversation with their sommelier and ask plenty of

is fading. Today’s sommeliers are as likely to work in more casual

questions. “Sommeliers are so excited to share what they know with

restaurants, grocery stores or even public relations. Many come to

other people, and they want to do it in a way that’s not pretentious.

the profession through a love of food—either from attending culi-

They want people to develop an appreciation; it’s exciting for them.”

nary school or working in restaurants—and they are lured to the

James Tidwell, cofounder of TEXSOM and beverage manager and

wine side of the business by the challenge of pairing food and wine

master sommelier at Four Seasons Las Colinas, encourages guests to

and the constant discovery of new wines.

be unafraid and to avoid becoming intimidated. “I am happy when

Drew Hendricks of Rudd Winery and cofounder of the TEXSOM

people come in and ask questions. My job is about being able to

conference says that the industry is changing in part because young-

answer questions at whatever spot a person is in their wine progres-

er people are choosing to become sommeliers straight out of college

sion, and help them find what they enjoy.”

or culinary school. “When I became a sommelier,” says Hendricks,

Sommeliers want feedback from customers, as well. Craig Collins

“I sort of backed into it—it took me a while to get to it. But now, you

and Devon Broglie are Austin’s only master sommeliers, and they both

can choose to be a sommelier, which wasn’t the case ten years ago.”

work in non-restaurant environments: Collins for Dalla Terra, distrib-

More women are joining the business, as well. “It’s difficult to be

utors of Italian wine, and Broglie as a buyer at Whole Foods Market.

a sommelier on the floor if you are interested in dating,” June Rodil,

They remind people to let their retail wine buyers know what they en-

general manager of Qui and East Side King says, only half-teasingly.

joyed and what they didn’t based on their recommendations. “It might

“I think it’s a little bit more difficult for women because the hours

take two or three times of making personal recommendations,” says

in a restaurant are not traditional to have a family. But if people look

Collins, “but if you ask for help, in a very short time, the retailer is go-

more into the industry, they would see there are a lot of fantastic

ing to recognize you, start to understand what your palate is and start

women out there who are a driving force—it’s just they have chosen

putting things in your hand that you love every time.”

a different outlet: the writers, winemakers, suppliers and marketers.”

Knowing what questions to ask customers is one of the keys to help-

Working with wine all day might seem like a dream job, but the

ing them feel comfortable while guiding them to try something new.

certification process is grueling and requires candidates to know

“The most important thing is to figure out what they drink normal-

history, science, farming and culinary arts, among other disciplines.

ly, and understand that people often drink wine not only for the fruit

The Institute of Masters of Wine in London, for example, offers a

flavors, but for the texture—they like the way wine feels,” says Mark

certification that requires a minimum of two years of study and in-

Sayre, sommelier at the Four Seasons Austin. “If they like full-bodied

cludes an annual one-week intensive seminar, a theory paper and ex-

cabernets, you can get them into other full-bodied regions like Priorat.”

ams. And the Court of Master Sommeliers has a four-tier path (intro-

Being a good listener may be the most important trait for a suc-

ductory, certified, advanced and master) to earn a master sommelier

cessful sommelier—engaging guests as part of a conversation rather

accreditation, with exams that include written tests, blind tastings

than a lecture. “Most people don’t know the technical vocabulary of

and service exams with on-the-spot quizzing. Hopeful candidates

wine, but they know what they like,” explains Rester. “You have to be

from both programs form study groups—testing and guiding one

willing to enter into that void with [the customer]. Listening to your

another through blind tastings—as they prepare to learn to think

guest and what they want is the key to being a successful sommelier.” EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM



Austin Sommeliers on Pairing


o successfully pair food and wine, our sommeliers suggest starting with the food, and to keep the flavors of the dish in mind

while selecting the wine. Also, choose whether you want one bottle for the entire dinner or different wines for each course. At a restaurant, talk to the sommelier about the dishes you have in mind and how you want to approach the pairings.

Devon Broglie Executive Coordinator of Purchasing, Whole Foods Market “The depth of what is available now is breathtaking and inspiring— wines from Portugal, Greece and Hungary that are just fascinating.”

Pollo al Carbon and Rosé  erve with Laurel Vineyard Rosé, Teutonic Wine Company, Willamette S Valley, 2012 “ Delicious char-grilled chicken served out of brown paper with street corn, charro beans and Mexican rice is one of my favorite quick, easy meals to grab from the drive-through window [and go] straight to my shaded patio on a blazing Austin day. The fresh berry and watermelon notes of a crisp, young rosé pair effortlessly with the rich, spicy chicken and beans. My favorite is 100 percent pinot noir-based 2012 Teutonic Wine Company Laurel Vineyard Rosé from the Willamette Valley.”

Backyard Burger and Malbec Serve with Bodega Tamari Reserva Malbec, Mendoza, Argentina, 2011 “ I make the ultimate burger by having our butchers grind equal parts sirloin, boneless rib and brisket. I form half-pound patties...then grill them to pink in the middle. My cheese of choice is blue, but make it your own! Thick-sliced and lightly grilled red onions, thick-sliced heirloom tomatoes and romaine. Ketchup, mustard, mayo and Cholula. Malbec’s juicy, ripe blueberry fruit and present, but softer than cab, tannins go perfectly with the meaty, fatty, grilled goodness. I love the 2011 Bodega Tamari Malbec Reserva for its easy-to-handle price tag and its crowd pleasingly classic malbec character.”

Scott Ota Wine Captain, The Driskill Grill “It doesn’t matter if you are spending thirty dollars or three thousand dollars—I don’t care. I just want you to have a good experience.”

 ecan-Crusted, Braised Pork Belly, Cornbread Puree, P Red Wine Demi Serve with Marc Hébrart Brut Rosé 1er Cru Mareiul-sur-Aÿ, Champagne, France, NV “ Textures and flavors are in complete harmony. Apples and pork are classic together, while the yeasty tones of the Champagne fare well with the pecan and corn bread, and the wine’s minerality carries the sweetness of the red wine demi.”

 an-Seared Cobia, Toasted Orzo, Sweet Peas, Maitake P Mushrooms, Sage Butter  erve with Weingut Knoll Grüner Veltliner Smaragd, Wachau, S Austria, 2008 “Bold earth textures and the fish’s density require a bold, voluptuous wine. Cobia and orzo together require weight while the ripe fruit tones of the grüner help bring out the sweetness of the peas and mushrooms. And since grüner gives many herbal tones, the wine will emphasize the sage in the butter sauce.” 44



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Paula Rester Wine Director, Congress Austin “ The blind-tasting experience is very much a left-brain-meetsright-brain exercise—it requires a lot of surrender on your part to listen to what is in the glass. The exact same thing happens when you are at the table with your guest—listening to your guest and what they want and what they are looking for.”

 ugar Snap Pea Salad with Barbecued Eel, Pea Tendrils, S Red Shiso and Foie Gras Serve with Kiralyudvar Tokaji Furmint Sec, 2009 “ When considering Hungarian wines, we often think of sweet, dessert-style wines. This one, however, is made in a crisp, dry style and has savory fennel tones to complement the green elements of the dish, and enough vibrant acidity to cut though the richness of both the eel and the foie gras mousse.”

June Rodil General Manager, Qui and East Side King “Wine encompasses a little bit of everything I like: a little science, subjectivity as far as what I personally enjoy and there’s a little bit of psychology with talking to guests. When in doubt, Champagne with anything! Fatty foods and high-acid wines are the best. And who doesn’t love bubbly? In essence, I feel guilty when I eat fatty foods, and bubbles, ideally Champagne, does just the trick to cleanse my palate and conscience. Specifically, a rosé with fried chicken so you have a little more weight and bright strawberry notes to go with something a little heavier, and a blanc de blancs with your favorite shoestring fries and aioli. For something a little quirkier, I’ve had a lot of fun recently with Flanders red beers like Duchesse de Bourgogne and cookies—I find that oatmeal cookies with cranberries and walnuts the most transcendent, while a traditional chocolate chip cookie does quite well.”

Mark Sayre Sommelier, Four Seasons Austin “I really fell in love with wine because of the story it told about people and place. It’s like music to me. Pairing wines with foods and food styles from the same country or region is one of the best ways to put food and wine together—it helps drive the symbiosis between the two. In Spain, they eat a ton of lamb and one of my favorite pairings is pan-roasted lamb rack with Priorat. Priorat is a region known for intense, old-vine garnacha (grenache) and cariñena (carignan)—making wines that have tremendous fruit

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power and complex minerality. Another favorite pairing of mine is roasted Gulf grouper and green mole with grüner veltliner. Green mole is more herb-and-tomatillo based than traditional dark mole, and the herbaceous tones can prove difficult to pair with wine. Grüner veltliner is an Austrian specialty that has lightning-like acidity, citrus and stone-fruit flavors and aromas, and this unique




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texas Terroir: Wine and food that grow together, go together

A Texas food and Wine Pairing by Russell Kane and Terry Thompson-Anderson During the 2013 Hill Country Wine and Music Festival in Fredericksburg, author and Chef Terry Thompson-Anderson and wine writer Russell Kane collaborated on an evening of food and wine pairings to raise money and awareness for the Texas Center for Wine and Culinary Arts, featuring recipes from Terry’s upcoming book, Texas Terroir: Celebrating the Flavors of the Lone Star State. We are sharing notes from this enjoyable event to highlight the fun and sensory experiences of pairing local food with Texas wine—to inspire your own pairings at home.

Pairing Notes The menu Amuse-Bouche Spicy, Texas-Style Hummus with Pita Chips Mushroom Rockefeller with a Hint of Herbsaint Crostini with Salsa Pomodoro Hilmy Cellars Tempranillo Rosé

First Course Boiled Gulf Shrimp on Asian Pear Slice with Texas Peach Rémoulade Sauce Curried Crab with Saffron on Watermelon Wedge Pedernales Cellars Albariño

Second Course Roasted Tomato and Basil Soup with Pesto Garni Texas Hills Vineyard Barbera

Third Course Mini Salad in Bibb Lettuce Cup with Cilantro Dressing, Tortilla Crisps and Seared Scallop Duchman Family Winery Vermentino

Fourth Cours e Sliced Roasted Beef Tenderloin with Orange-Chipotle Sauce on Onion and Jalapeño Polenta with Peppered French Green Beans Woodrose Winery Tempranillo

Fifth Course Seared and Roasted Pork Tenderloin with Spanish Chorizo and Mushroom Sauce on a bed of Kale with Jalapeños and Olives Torre di Pietra Petite Syrah

Dessert Course Fredericksburg Peach Bread Pudding with Peach Schnapps and Whiskey Sauce and Chantilly Cream Messina Hof Mistella “Glory” Late Harvest Muscat Canelli

After Bite Chocolate Bouchon with Salted Agave Caramel and Cointreau Crema 48

Fredericksburg Winery Orange Muscat



Color and Spice. The amuse-bouche had a predominance of spice, acid and color; the spicy, piquant hummus begged for a quenching counterpoint of sweetness in the wine while the salsa’s tomato and acidity sought a bright, red component and the acidity offered by the Hilmy Cellars Rosé made from Texas tempranillo. The ultimate seafood wine. The elements of seafood and Asian spices in the first course led to the selection of the Pedernales Cellars Albariño with its characteristic crisp pear, peach and citrus flavors. (Albariño should be the go-to wine for Gulf seafood.) Soup and red wine. This is perhaps the most difficult pairing, as most red wines are too harshly tannic. Enter the second course and Texas Hills Vineyard Barbera with its Italian heritage, crisp acidity and smooth, light tannic structure to accompany the tomato-basil soup. To illustrate the culinary flexibility of this wine, it has also successfully paired with red, raw maguro tuna. Salad, herbs and wine. Salad is the next most challenging food-wine match, especially with the pungency of cilantro present. Our mindset was simply to select a white Italian-style wine (Duchman Family Winery Vermentino) that always yields more herb descriptors than fruit, which it provided with its intense minerality on par with the lettuce and scallop. This course also highlighted the fact that white wines can follow reds—providing a refreshing interlude in multicourse dining. Red meat equals red wine. This is perhaps the most obvious and overused rule in the food-wine pairing arsenal. However, the fourth course’s match was determined not by this rule but rather by the predominance of the culinary accompaniments of garlic, pepper and orange. They led to a Spanish red grape and specifically to the Woodrose Winery Tempranillo with its peppery, orange-zest finish. Earth, smoke and spice. Pork, a near-perfect chef’s canvas, allows the auxiliary flavors to lead the wine pairing. Here, the searing and paprika in the chorizo yielded smoke, the mushrooms and kale evoked the earth and the piquant jalapeños demanded the Torre di Pietra Petite Syrah that delivered one for one on each element of this dish. Alcohol, fruit and relative sweetness. The whiskey in the bread pudding sauce begged for a high-alcohol wine with fruit dominance and led to Messina Hof’s Muscat Canelli, an aromatic, fresh, fruity wine fortified with brandy. The After Bite was very sweet and sticky. The Fredericksburg Winery Orange Muscat resulted in an orange-on-orange pairing. For both desserts, the wine was selected to be sweeter than the associated dish—a critical point because, if reversed, the results would be a bitter-tasting wine. Dr. Russ Kane is author of The Wineslinger Chronicles: Texas on the Vine. He also blogs at Terry Thompson-Anderson is author of many books including her upcoming book, Texas Terroir: Celebrating the Flavors of the Lone Star State.

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that goes far beyond Bier und Brats. If you come to Fredericksburg anticipating authentic German cuisine, we will not disappoint. But further exploration will reveal restaurateurs that offer decidedly more diverse menus. Escolar and lobster. Seared duck breast with ginger/orange glaze. Tender steaks. And very naughty desserts. All complemented by award-winning cabernets, tempranillos, viogniers and rieslings from our numerous vineyards and wineries. Incidentally, “Zauber” is the German word for “magic.” Guten Appetit. H | 866 997 3600




Edible traditions

Turkish Coffee by Elif Selvili • Photography by Kate LeSUEUr


he word “coffee” entered the

fee during the reign of Sultan Süleyman

English language through a cir-

the Magnificent by Özdemir Pasha, the

cuitous phonetic route by way

Ottoman governor of Yemen, who had

of the Dutch word koffie, derived from

become a coffee convert during his ap-

the Italian word caffè, which probably

pointment to that country. Coffee quickly

came from the Turkish word kahveh,

became an essential part of the Ottoman

that has its roots in the Arabic word

palace kitchens, with the “chief coffee

qahwah—a shortening of the expres-

maker” (kahvecibaşı) taking his place in

sion qahwat al-bun, roughly translated

the royal court. The chief coffee maker’s

as “wine of the bean.” This is where

duty was to prepare the sultan’s coffee

any agreement between lexicographers

while maintaining absolute loyalty and

ends. Although there is no hard evi-

secrecy. A good number of chief coffee

dence, some scholars assert that the

makers percolated through the court

word qahwah is foreign to Arabic, and

ranks to become grand viziers to the sul-

that it originates from the Kaffa region

tan. Coffee’s fame eventually leaked from

of the southwestern highlands of Ethi-

the palace to the grand mansions and

opia, where the coffee plant was first

then on to the general public. Green cof-

cultivated. Although in many languag-

fee beans were purchased and then roast-

es, “coffee” refers to both the beverage

ed at home on pans. The beans were then

and the bean (which, in fact is a berry,

ground in mortars and brewed in copper

not a legume), in Arabic, the two are

pots. Written records document that the

distinct: the berry is called bunn and

first coffeehouse in Istanbul was estab-

the word qahwah refers only to the stimulating drink many of us have come to worship. There are many colorful tales about the spread of coffee through

lished in the 1640s in Tahtakale, a neighborhood next to the famous Spice Bazaar. The oldest Turkish coffee purveyor still operates today from a tiny storefront in this area.

the Arabian Peninsula and its discovery as a stimulant, including the

In modern-day Turkey, much as it was during the Ottoman Em-

one about Sheikh Omar, a Sufi doctor who was exiled from Mocha,

pire, coffee is not just a drink but a culture. Ever since the first cof-

Ethiopia (the modern word “mocha” owes its name to this ancient

feehouse opened in Istanbul centuries ago, artists, students and

city), to a remote region in Yemen in the 12th century for the crime

teachers have come together in coffeehouses to read books, perform

of curing patients with prayer. Omar, hard-pressed for food, chewed

plays and hold intellectual discussions. Today’s Turkish coffeehouses

berries from a nearby shrub but discovered them to be bitter. He

may be a little less intellectual, though no less lively. The traditional

roasted the berries to sweeten the flavor, but the berries became

ones—as opposed to the ubiquitous and unisex American franchises

too hard to chew. He then tried to soften them by boiling, which

currently dotting the urban Turkish landscape—are gathering spots

resulted in an aromatic brown liquid. When he drank this liquid, he

mostly for men who play backgammon, watch soccer on TV, argue

was instantly energized and felt no hunger for days. As stories of this

and joke, all at top volume. Although locally grown tea is probably

miracle medicine reached Mocha, Omar was asked to return and was

consumed in greater quantity, these establishments are still known

made a saint (sainthood would have been well deserved for a deed

as kahvehane (coffeehouses). Outside these traditional coffeehous-

this monumental!).

es, Turkish coffee is served widely in restaurants, pastry shops and

The first documented evidence of people drinking coffee appears

in every Turkish home. In more traditional families, Turkish coffee

in the middle of the 15th century, in the Sufi monasteries around

plays an important role in asking for a girl’s hand in marriage by the

Mocha. By the 16th century, the beverage had reached the Ottoman

potential groom’s parents. When the young man’s parents visit the

Empire, Persia and northern Africa. Istanbul was introduced to cof-

girl’s family to get the blessing of her parents, the future bride pre-







pares and serves Turkish coffee to the guests. The groom’s parents judge her readiness to be a good wife for their son by her skill at preparing the coffee. If the potential groom is also present, the bride-tobe sometimes uses salt instead of sugar to test his character. If the future groom drinks his salted coffee without any complaints, the bride-to-be assumes that the groom is good-tempered and patient. Turkish coffee is prepared in four degrees of sweetness: plain (sade), little sugar (az şekerli), medium (orta) and sweet (şekerli). The reason the coffee drinker has to declare his sweetness preference in advance is because the sugar is mixed into the coffee as it is being prepared. Turkish coffee is unfiltered, with the fine grounds sitting in the bottom of the delicate demitasse (espresso cup), as thick as mud and as bitter as a raw coffee bean. The coffee is best prepared in a cezve, a small copper pot with a long handle to keep the coffee maker’s hand safely away from the heat and flames (originally, coffee was cooked over a coal fire). Although both robusto and arabica beans can be used, the latter produces a smoother, sweeter result. A medium to dark roast results in an ideal taste for this method. Regardless of the type of bean or roast, the beans have to be ground to the finest possible degree, resembling the consistency of talcum powder. Traditionally, this fineness was achieved with a brass mortar and later with a handmade brass burr mill. The mill would be passed from one family member to the next to take turns at this arduous task while the aroma wafting from the mill would remind everyone of the treat to come. Today, many industrial and home grinders have a very fine grind setting especially for Turkish coffee preparation. The coffee is always served in a demitasse, usually accompanied by a cool glass of water and, if one’s lucky, a piece of Turkish delight. The freshness of the roast and the grinding of the beans just before making the coffee ensure a thick layer of foam on top of the cup—the trademark of an experienced coffee maker and the harbinger of excellent coffee. Turkish coffee, besides being considered an excellent digestive after a big meal, is also used for fortune-telling throughout Turkey. After the coffee is sipped almost all the way down to the grounds (taking great care not to touch them), the saucer is placed on top of the cup and the remaining liquid is swished around. The cup is

Türk Kahvesi (Turkish Coffee)

immediately turned upside down before the grounds can settle back

Makes 1 coffee

the bottom of the cup has cooled down, it is lifted away from the

1 demitasse cold water Sugar to taste (¼ t. for semisweet, ½ t. for medium, 1 t. for sweet) 2 heaping t. finely ground medium- or dark-roast arabica coffee

In a cezve (a small saucepan with a long handle), heat the water and, if requested, the sugar. Use a different pot for each of the different levels of sweetness (for example, one pot for plain and another for medium-sweet). After the water warms up, but before it reaches a boil, stir in the coffee. Turn down the heat as low as possible.

down, while holding on tightly to the saucer to create a seal. After saucer to reveal the patterns left by the grounds. There are as many ways to interpret the patterns as there are patterns to be created by the grounds. The cup’s sides are read in a clockwise direction, starting with the handle as being the present time. The walls of the cup can be divided evenly into vertical time slices the fortune-teller decides, such as a week, several weeks or even months, but rarely longer than two or three months. The bottom of the cup usually reflects the drinker’s mood or frame of mind: dark and thick means troubled, a bubble means a big source of worry, being able to see the bottom

Slowly bring the coffee to a gentle boil. When a slight foam forms on

of the cup means lighthearted. There are a few widely accepted pat-

the surface after 4 to 5 minutes, carefully pour out only the foam into

terns: a bird means news, a fish means money or good fortune, long

the demitasse and return to the heat. Continue bringing the coffee to

lines mean voyages and eyes mean envy or jealousy. The rest of the

a boil and pouring out the foam into the cup, 2 to 3 times more. Serve

patterns are entirely up to the imagination and interpretive skills

immediately. Allow the grounds to settle down for 3 to 4 minutes

of the fortune-teller as she (this is primarily performed by women)

before drinking.

rotates the cup and translates the velvety brown shapes.




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“During the summer, we like to focus on cold, spicy, light dishes and pair them with crisp wines like rosés and rieslings.” —Chef Jessica Maher 54



Cooking fresh

A SUMMER Menu From CHEFS TODD and Jessica by Layne Lynch • Photography by Knoxy


enoir’s seductive spin on French-infused warm-weather

pastas. “We definitely like to keep it simple when we’re home,” Ma-

cuisine, extensive international beverage list and cozy

her admits. “We shop at the farmers market, go on bike rides, walk

shabby-chic decor have been luring legions of diners to

the dogs. It’s definitely relaxing.”

the South First Street district since January 2012. Now, with an

For summer, Maher and Duplechan are spotlighting light, acidic

impressive and ever-expanding list of media accolades under the

and complex-but-not-fussy fare at Lenoir. “During the summer, we

restaurant’s belt, there’s even more reason to pay a visit. But the

like to focus on cold, spicy, light dishes and pair them with crisp

most compelling draw to dine at Lenoir is the chance to behold

wines like rosés and rieslings,” Maher says. “We actually try to have

the talents of owners and chefs Todd Duplechan and Jessica Maher.

as few hot dishes coming out of the kitchen as possible. Summer is

The husband-and-wife team entered the Austin culinary scene

definitely not as diverse or ideal as some of the other seasons, but

in 2007 after individually building impressive résumés in New York

we appreciate the challenge it presents.”

City restaurants like Danube, Tabla and Jacques Torres. Before de-

Enjoy this multicourse peek at the genius that is Lenoir’s team

buting Lenoir last year, Maher worked with Dai Due’s Jesse Griffiths

Maher-Duplechan, along with recipe notes by Maher on the follow-

while Duplechan showcased his adventurous cuisine at TRIO at the

ing pages.

Four Seasons Hotel Austin. Yet, like most resolute, ingenious chefs, the couple craved a place to call their own. Enter Lenoir. Flashing forward, the whirlwind success of the restaurant has amplified and solidified Maher and Duplechan’s individual and collective talents. But with that vindication has come an immense amount of pressure and expectation, too. “There are definitely days when I feel like we can’t add another single thing to our plate,” says Maher. “But in the end, we’re both hard workers who love what we do. We’re always thinking about how we can continue to stay relevant and creative, and I think that’s what people appreciate most about Lenoir.” Managing a restaurant with a co-owner and partner is difficult enough without the added intensity of love and marriage, but the duo somehow makes the challenge seem effortless. “I can be a major stress ball,” Maher says, “but Todd is cool as a cucumber, so it works for us. I’ve seen other couples fall apart after opening restaurants together, but being married to my business partner and the father of my child is actually a blessing. We get a creative outlet and we get to create our own unique identity. I find a lot of beauty in that.” Once a week, the couple escapes the chaos of the kitchen to spend the day together with their toddler, Hollis. On those cherished days, they wind down by preparing light, no-fuss meals like stir-fries and





FIRST COURSE Summer Bean Salad with Tomato-Pasilla Water, Smoked Mushrooms and Roasted Squash Serves 4 This salad takes a lot of summer vegetables and combines them in such a way that each one has a starring role, depending on your bite. The tomato water has an intensity of tomatoes enhanced by the smoky pasilla and mushrooms. For the tomato-pasilla water: 1 qt. chopped overripe tomatoes ½ of a shallot 1 basil stem with leaves ½ c. white cooking wine 1 whole pasilla chili, steeped in hot water until soft 2 t. tequila Salt and pepper, to taste

¼ lb. oyster mushrooms, smoked over mesquite chips, then roasted quickly in a pan ¼ lb. cherry tomatoes, charred over a flame 3 T. olive oil Salt and pepper, to taste Turk’s cap flower petals, to garnish

Combine the tomato-pasilla water ingredients in a blender and puree until smooth. Using several layers of cheesecloth and a strainer, strain slowly in the refrigerator overnight (you can also use an old T-shirt, but make sure it’s clean, of course!). The next day, the tomato water should be a slightly orange hue or a clear liquid that smells and tastes strongly of smoky tomatoes. For the bean salad, combine all of the vegetables with a little of the tomato water and the olive oil and salt and pepper, then divide into 4

For the bean salad: 1 c. purple hull peas, blanched ½ lb. Chinese long beans, trimmed and blanched 2 medium-size pattypan squashes, cut into 8 pieces each and roasted 56



bowls and top with a few petals of Turk’s cap. Suggested wine pairing: Adami Prosecco di Valdobbiadene Frizzante Sur Lie, Italy, 2011

THIRD COURSE Poha-Crusted Black Drum with Tomato-Kalonji Curry and Fresh Arugula Serves 4 This dish makes good use of tomatoes that may not look pretty, but have terrific flavor. We like to crust one side of the fish we’re using with poha, or flattened rice flakes, for texture and the scaly look of it. The tomato curry in this dish is really the star, and the arugula adds a nice peppery, fresh bite to offset all of the roasted flavor and spice.

SECOND COURSE Vermillion Snapper Ceviche with Canary Melon, Avocado Puree and Papadam Serves 4 We have to make a concerted effort to keep the menu light and cooling over the summer—not only because it’s hot outside, but because our tiny little restaurant heats up inside pretty quickly even

For the tomato-kalonji curry: 1 sweet yellow onion, diced 4 shallots, diced 6-in. piece of ginger, peeled and minced 1 T. grapeseed oil 16 medium-size tomatoes, stemmed and quartered 2 bay leaves 2 T. cumin seed 4 T. coriander seed 1 T. fenugreek seed 2 T. turmeric 4 cloves, whole 2 T. onion seed (also known as nigella seeds) 1 T. Tabasco sauce 3 T. fish sauce Salt and pepper, to taste

with our multiple air conditioners cranking out cool air. This dish is a good example of what we like to think of as “hot weather food,” with cooling melon, chilies and lightly cured Gulf vermillion snapper (or red snapper will work perfectly). It’s sweet, spicy, acidic and a touch fatty with the avocado—just delicious! 1 canary melon, peeled, seeded and cut into ½-in. dice ½ c. fresh lime juice 8 oz. fillet of vermillion snapper, thinly sliced 1 ripe avocado 3 serrano peppers, seeded and stemmed 1 orange, juiced Salt and pepper, to taste Papadam (chickpea flour crisps available at Indian markets) Pickled shallots and Thai basil leaves and flowers, to garnish

Puree ¼ of the melon chunks with the lime juice and use the mixture

For the black drum fish: 1 c. poha flakes 4 boneless, skinless black drum fish fillets Salt and pepper, to taste Grapeseed oil 2 T. unsalted butter 1 bunch fresh arugula, washed and dried

Prepare the curry. In a saucepan, sweat the onion, shallot and ginger in the grapeseed oil over medium-high heat. Add the tomatoes and cook down. Toast all of the spices except the onion seed in a medium-hot skillet and add to the tomatoes. Strain the mixture through a fine-mesh strainer. Add the onion seed, Tabasco and fish sauce, test for seasoning and add salt and pepper if needed. Keep warm.

to marinate the snapper for 10 to 15 minutes. In the meantime, com-

Put the poha flakes on a plate, season the fillets with salt and pepper

bine the avocado, serranos and orange juice in a blender and blend

and press one side of each fillet into the flakes to create an even

until smooth. Strain the marinade from the snapper and combine it

crust. In a medium saucepan, drizzle a little grapeseed oil and place

with the avocado puree and season with salt and pepper. Mix the

the fish, poha-side down, into the pan. Cook until the poha develops

snapper with the avocado puree. Place the papadam crisps onto 4

color then flip over, add the butter to the pan and baste the fillets

plates, top each with some of the snapper mixture and garnish with

with the butter until medium-rare. Remove from the heat, drain on a

the rest of the melon chunks and the pickled shallots and Thai basil

paper towel then serve a fillet on each of 4 plates with the hot tomato

leaves and flowers.

curry and a side of the fresh arugula.

Suggested wine pairing: Nikolaihof Grüner Veltliner “Hefeabzug”

Suggested wine pairing: Heidi Schrock Weissburgunder, Neus-

Wachau, Austria, 2011

iedlersee-Huggeland, Austria, 2009 EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM



FOURTH COURSE Summer Squash “Pasta” with Roasted Duck Breast, Duck Chorizo and Mint Marigold Serves 4 For the duck chorizo: 2½ lb. boned duck legs with skin ½ c. apple cider vinegar ¾ oz. kosher salt 1 T. cayenne 1½ t. ground pasilla chili

1½ t. ground mulatto chili 1½ t. ground black pepper 1 t. Mexican oregano 1 t. ground coriander 1 t. ground cumin

For the roasted duck breasts: 2 boneless duck breasts Salt and pepper, to taste For the summer squash “pasta”: 2 medium zucchini 2 medium yellow crookneck squash Reserved duck chorizo fat Splash of warm duck stock (or substitute chicken stock) Salt and pepper, to taste Mint marigold leaves and flowers, to garnish

For the chorizo, combine the duck, vinegar, salt and all of the spices and mix together in a bowl. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 2 hours, or overnight. Using a meat grinder, grind everything through a medium die. Mix well by hand, cover and refrigerate for 1 hour. Wash and sanitize all of the grinder parts and the

Real Cooking

machine, then pull out half of the duck mixture, grind through the medium die again and mix with the other half by hand. Divide the mixture in half. In a medium saucepan, cook one half of the chorizo over low to medium heat to brown and render out some of the fat. Drain the fat and reserve. Set the cooked chorizo aside until ready to plate. Freeze the remaining half of the chorizo in an airtight bag for future use. Prepare the duck breasts. Season the flesh side of the duck breasts

Mon-Thurs: 7 am-3 pm Fri-Sun: 7 am-5 pm

with salt and pepper and place them, skin-side down, in a dry pan over low heat. Render the fat slowly until the skin starts to crisp (don’t add any additional oil or fat to the pan). Once the skin starts to crisp, use the rendered fat to baste the flesh side until the breasts are cooked medium-rare, to approximately 140°. Set aside to rest on a plate, then slice before serving. Trim the top and bottom of each squash. Using a mandoline or a sharp knife, slice each squash lengthwise into 1/16-inch slices. Arrange the slices into several even stacks. Turn each squash stack on its side and slice in half again, lengthwise, to create long, pasta-like strands. Heat the rendered fat from the chorizo then gently sauté the squash strands in the fat. Add the splash of warm stock, season with salt and pepper, then remove from the heat and divide into 4 bowls. Top each with some of the chorizo, then some of the sliced

512-382-6248 11815 620 N. Suite 4 58



duck breast. Finally, garnish with mint marigold leaves and flowers. Suggested wine pairing: Quinta dos Roques Touriga Nacional Dão, Portugal, 2009

Showcasing work by national and regional artists, our collection combines figurative works, impressionistic

Gabe Langholtz, “Dockside” mixed media, 48”x36”

landscapes and

FIFTH COURSE: Fresh CKC Chèvre with Honey and Texas Peaches

representational imagery with

Serves 4 This may not be an obvious dessert plate, but we found that it seemed to suit both those who are, and who aren’t, dessert types.

contemporary expressionism.

Announcing our new location! 200 Main Street, Marble Falls

The CKC Farms chèvre has the perfect fresh zing to pair with sweet Texas peaches and honey. I ordered this for myself last summer while sitting down with some friends and was thrilled that it was

200 Main St., Marble Falls • 830.693.9999 •

even better than I had hoped it would be. This also pairs perfectly with summer melons like the honeydew varietals we get here. For the peaches: 2 lb. ripe Texas peaches ¼ c. cane sugar Zest and juice of 1 lemon Pinch salt

For the chèvre: 1 c. CKC fresh chèvre 2 T. Texas honey Pepper, to taste Splash milk, if needed

Wash, peel (with a peeler or sharp paring knife) and halve the peaches. Remove the pit then dice the halves into large dice (they don’t

Hill Country? More like lake Country, wine Country and art Country.

have to be perfect, so don’t discard the less-than-square pieces). Combine with the sugar, lemon zest, lemon juice and salt in a medium saucepan. Bring to a boil to dissolve the sugar—stirring frequently. Remove from the heat and strain the liquid back into the pan—reserving the fruit in a separate bowl. Bring the liquid back to a boil and reduce to a syrup that holds its shape when you pull a spatula through it (like Moses parting the Red Sea). Pour the liquid over the reserved fruit and put the bowl over an ice bath to cool rapidly. In the bowl of a mixer, combine the chèvre, honey and a touch of freshly ground black pepper. Using the paddle attachment, whip the chèvre mixture on medium speed until smooth (I always add a splash of milk—either whole cow’s milk or goat’s milk—if the cheese seems a little dry. It should be easily spreadable). Reserve and refrigerate until 30 minutes before serving. Drizzle some of the juice from the peaches around each of 4 plates and divide some of the chilled

Sure, we’re known for our hills. But take a look between them and that’s where you’ll find historic antiques, world-class wineries, inspiring art galleries and some pretty inviting waters. Find the latest deals and plan your overnight stay at

chèvre and peaches onto each. Serve with buttery or nutty crackers. Suggested wine pairing: Kracher Welschriesling “Auslese” Burgenland, Austria 2010 EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM



Edible Environment

WAR ON WASTE by Brandi Clark Burton

the U.S. Composting Council show

eating, very few peo-

the priorities in food recovery



from the most preferable at the top

the enormous amounts of human,

to the least preferable at the bot-

environmental and economic re-

tom (see chart on opposite page).


sources that go into making our

The top choice on the chart

meals possible. We are learning

is source reduction—this means

to eat seasonally, but lemonade in

preventing waste from happening.

the summer—just when you need

Next best is to feed people—spe-

it most—is not coming from local

cifically, hungry people. Wasted

lemons. And those of us who con-

food is even more tragic when you

sume kale year-round will have to

realize that 49 million Americans

outsource when the blazing Texas

don’t know where their next meal

sun makes growing it here unten-

is coming from. That’s 1 in 6 Amer-

able. The average vegetable travels

icans, or about the same number

1,300 miles to arrive on your plate,

as the entire populations of the 25

and that’s after the whole process

least-populated states. Even more

of planting, growing, harvesting,

heartbreaking: over 16 million of

processing and packaging.

those who are food insecure in the

The rotten truth is that after all

U.S. are children. This is nearly the

that effort to obtain the food, much

same number of all kids enrolled

of it goes uneaten. An estimated 25

in every kindergarten, first, second

percent of what enters American

and third grades.

homes gets wasted. And the aver-

Food donations are import-

age U.S. household spends more

ant, although there is a lot of fear

than $133 a month, or $1,600 per

around liability associated with

year, on food it throws away.

handing food off to someone else

Even worse, in the U.S., we waste 40 percent of our food from

who might become sick or die from eating it. Thankfully, federal

farm to table. Altogether, it’s enough to fill Texas Memorial Stadium

and state legal protection is provided to businesses who donate food

every day. Globally, up to 50 percent of edible food is wasted. A recent

to nonprofit organizations via the Bill Emerson Good Samaritan Food

study commissioned by the U.N. Food and Agriculture Organization

Donation Act of 1996 and Texas’s Good Faith Donor Act of 1981.

estimated that 1.3 billion metric tons of food goes to waste annually around the world. That’s one-third of all food produced for humans.

In the Austin area, more than 120 agencies offer food assistance to people in need, yet it is not enough to keep up with demand. Though

Currently, most food waste goes straight to landfills, which is about

it cannot address the full scope of the problem, an effective system of

the worst place it could go. Landfill deposits are sealed over with a

food donors, food runners and possibly some digital applications can

layer of daily landfill cover, which leads to the anaerobic breakdown

redirect to hungry people what is currently being thrown away. Keep

of the food. So rather than turning into soil, it generates the potent

Austin Fed is a small organization recovering food from a limited num-

greenhouse gas methane, contributing to global warming.

ber of restaurants and bakeries and delivering that food to places like

Perhaps the greatest tragedy is the millions of missed opportunities

Easter Seals and SafePlace. After a bit of soul-searching, the group is

to use the food and food scraps for higher and better uses. Food-recov-

gearing up to grow into the type of organization that can handle much

ery hierarchies developed by the Environmental Protection Agency and

more robust local food-recovery efforts.




Photography by Thomas Winslow


hile most of us enjoy

In September 2011, I asked the City of Austin and Travis County’s Sustainable Food Policy Board to create a food-surplus-and-salvage working group. We spent over a year researching facts, legalities, programs and resources, as well as networking and meeting with local food groups to develop and understand the landscape of food recovery. One outcome of our efforts was having the Austin City Council declare 2013 the Year of Food Waste Prevention and Recovery. Our working group, now called Food Shift Austin, is collaborating with Food Shift (in Oakland, CA) and EcoCampaigns to create a compelling initiative to align leaders, raise awareness and shift practices around food purchasing, handling and disposal. The bottom line is that we need to stop paying to put food in landfills, where it has negative impacts, and instead use that food to achieve positive results—feeding people and animals, as well as generating biofuel and healthy soil. In the U.S., we spend $750 million a year to dispose of food. What if we spent that same money to recover food? Part of what is needed is a fundamental shift in the way food is valued on a cultural level. The line of thinking that led to the rebranding of Austin Solid Waste Services to Austin Resource Recovery is the same thought process we need to have around food. Food waste is still food—for humans, animals or microbes in compost. If surplus food is not suitable for human consumption, it can be used for feeding animals, for industrial uses or at least for turning into compost. In December 2011, the Austin City Council unanimously approved the adoption of Austin Resource Recovery’s Master Plan, also known as the Zero Waste plan. If Austin is going to achieve zero waste, meaning 90-plus percent diversion from landfills or incineration, we must solve this food-waste problem.

Many remember the efforts to grow victory gardens and not waste

Nourishing tomorrow’s top reporter.


Meet Lorenya, a fifth grade student with big dreams. The after-school club at her elementary school gives Lorenya a nutritious meal and a place to work on her next piece for the school newspaper.

The good news is that the size of the problem also indicates the size of the opportunity. We can take heart in knowing it is not this way in every culture, nor have Americans always been this wasteful.





Children across Central Texas, like Lorenya, benefit from the Capital Area Food Bank’s food programs during the school year. But during the summer, school lunches and after-school meals are not available. 1 in 4 children in Central Texas lives in a household at risk of hunger. Every child deserves to have their dreams nourished. Help us bring 500,000 healthy meals to families across Central Texas. Advocate . Donate . Volunteer





food during World War II. We can shift our culture to those values and practices again. We are at an exciting time in history when we can redefine what is acceptable when it comes to food waste, and develop a variety of solutions that are good for people, animals and our environment, as well as our economy and our wallets.

What can you do? Prevent food waste at home We all have produce cull and trimmings, and even the most vigilant food savers end up with the occasional wilted lettuce or moldy leftovers. Try these ideas to minimize the volume of waste:

• Buy less, more often. • Scan your refrigerator, freezer and pantry before heading out to the farmers market or the store. Plan dishes and meals that incorporate what you already have that needs to be used first.

L earn about your food’s shelf life and how long it can be stored in the freezer. “Best by” and “use by” dates are not yet standardized or regulated and do not necessarily mean that the food is inedible if it’s past one of those dates. Trust your nose.

L earn how to properly store food to extend its useful life. Putting things in the right bag, container or drawer in the refrigerator can make the difference of many days of usefulness.

 se the freezer to temporarily stop the aging process. Turn fruit into U smoothies or ice pops, and collect veggie trimmings for soup stock.

• •

E at on smaller plates—it reduces food waste by about 20 percent.  dopt a system for diverting food scraps, produce trimmings and spoiled A food. Implement or gain access to a composting system or animals that enjoy food scraps. If you don’t have a yard, consider indoor composting systems. You can also toss scraps into a bucket in the freezer and when it gets full, transport it to a neighbor’s chickens or community garden’s compost pile. Note: In 2013 nearly 8,000 Austin households are participating in a curbside food waste and yard trimmings collection pilot program.

Prevent food waste WHen going out • • • • •

Order food family style. Split large entrées with a friend. Offer excess food you have to others. Bring a locking storage container to take home any leftovers.  ake a pact with your dining buddies that you won’t let food go to waste. M Either someone at the table will eat it or someone will take the leftovers!

Prevent food waste in the community •

I f you host a meeting, party or event, let no good food go to waste on your watch. Have in place leftover donation, send-off and compost strategies. Have some biodegradable to-go containers so that any leftovers can be sent home with volunteers, staff, guests or anyone!

 olunteer for Keep Austin Fed, and sign up to pick up surplus food from V restaurants and bakeries to deliver to social service agencies.

For additional resources and more information on this subject, visit often for information about where you can donate surplus food, volunteer to be a food runner and find out more about liability protection and tax deductions for food donors. 62



Leaving the garden hose out while mowing the lawn was one wrong decision. Avoid another by keeping the damaged garden hose out of your blue recycling cart.

Make the decision to Recycle Right Learn how at

AW-Purpleisthenewgreen_halfpage_4-29-13-Edibletimes.indd 1


4/29/2013 4:45:03 PM SUMMER 2013 63

Local Heroes in the wAR ON WASTE by Nicole Lessin

Keep Austin Fed

Ground to Ground



oseph de Leon wouldn’t normally buy a single-serving meal for

himself, but he relishes the weekly

bout a year ago, Lindsay Razzaz was blown away by a community meeting she attended with members of Compost Coali-

tion—a volunteer-based network of individuals and groups work-

opportunity to rescue hundreds of

ing to divert organic matter from the landfill through education,

them—packed with everything from

outreach and activities such as transporting kitchen scraps to local

ahi Niçoise salad to grassfed beef—

chickens. “I was impressed by the great service Compost Coalition

from the waste stream for some of

was providing for local businesses and for the environment,” Raz-

the city’s poorest people. De Leon is

zaz says. “I loved that there was very little money needed to effect

a leader in Keep Austin Fed, a volunteer group that helps funnel to

this change.”

charity still-delicious but otherwise landfill-bound food from area

In fact, Razzaz—who works in the horticulture office of Travis

bakeries, caterers and restaurants. “The best part,” he says, “is know-

County’s Texas A&M AgriLife Extension Service—was so inspired

ing that the people who are getting this would normally have no

that she began researching different composting programs around

exposure to something like a quinoa salad, and that they would

the world and soon found one in Melbourne, Australia, called

probably never buy this for themselves.”

Ground to Ground that she thought would dovetail nicely with the

Keep Austin Fed—which started in 2008 with one volunteer

goals of the coalition. “It was a community composting program

gathering and donating leftovers from a monthly catered wine-

for coffee, and I thought that would be an incredible fit since used

and-cheese-tasting event—has mushroomed into a network of

coffee grounds are a really wonderful, nutrient-rich resource for

more than 30 volunteer food runners who pick up and deliver

your garden.”

consumable food to shelters, food pantries and other charities

Thus was born Austin’s own Ground to Ground project, a part-

in cooperation with the nonprofit organization Easter Seals of

nership that includes Compost Coalition and Travis County’s Tex-

Central Texas. This partnership allows the group to offer the par-

as A&M AgriLife Extension office, which uses their army of mas-

ticipating donor businesses, which include Upper Crust Bakery,

ter gardener volunteers to recruit cafés to offer their used grounds

Snap Kitchen, Kerbey Lane Cafe and others, a tax deduction for

freely to anyone who asks and to educate the community in gen-

the food they share.

eral about their myriad benefits. “Coffee grounds actually con-

While the volunteers don’t get a chance to actually feed peo-

tain nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium,” notes Razzaz, “which

ple themselves, de Leon says they derive satisfaction from rescuing

are the three major nutrients in conventional fertilizer, and they

what are often mountains of food—which, in addition to the indi-

contribute a range of micronutrients such as magnesium, copper

vidually packaged meals, have contained catering trays stacked with

and calcium that you don’t typically find in synthetic fertilizers.

lemon bars and fudge brownies, salmon entrées and even 10 gallons’

They add organic matter to your yard or garden, which helps retain

worth of Cajun-spiced mixed nuts—for the people who need it the

moisture, and are just a fantastic soil amendment overall.”


“I say that using coffee grounds in your garden is a gateway

These days, Keep Austin Fed is also piloting a project in part-

drug to composting,” Compost Coalition founder Heather-Nicole

nership with Compost Coalition, through which food that is no

Hoffman adds with a laugh. “You can actually put them directly on

longer fresh enough for people to eat is either composted or fed

your soil, so you don’t even have to compost them first.” Not to

to egg-producing chickens—thereby laying the foundation for

mention the fact that they’re free.

a new generation of consumable food. The group is also devel-

So far, the Ground to Ground program has enlisted about 20

oping a leadership team and an advisory board as word spreads

participating coffee shops citywide that will provide free grounds

among restaurant owners and other businesses that Keep Aus-

(and even reusable containers to transport them in) through a

tin Fed is the go-to group for food rescue. In the meantime, de

bucket-exchange program. Program leaders say they’re always

Leon says he’s enjoying doing his part to limit the food that

looking to expand, by adding either more business-

winds up in the landfill while simultaneously giving poor peo-

es or outreach educators. “The beauty of it is that

ple a chance to try healthy new foods. “I hear stories from the

it’s simple, sustainable and community-driven,”

shelter that the residents really enjoyed that Mediterranean sal-

Razzaz says. “Ground to Ground reduces waste,

ad…that it was a real treat for them,” he says. “That’s just icing

builds our soil and strengthens local businesses.”

on the cake.”

Find out more at

Find out more at 64




sip local Your neighborhood one-stop-shop & coffee bar Wholesale * Retail * Catering * Consulting * Tech Service

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Four Seasons Austin


he guest rooms at the Four Seasons Hotel Austin are known for their luxurious amenities—including down-filled duvets and

complimentary bath products from L’Occitane en Provence. But last fall, the hotel’s sustainability team introduced another special feature: an in-room recycling system—complete with information for guests on how to compost their food leftovers—as part of their new Zero Waste initiative, an ambitious program designed to cut down landfill-bound refuse from 90 to less than 10 percent in just two years. “We have seen a great amount of participation from the guests,” says Spa Supervisor Jaramy LaLonde, who serves as the chair of the sustainability committee that spearheaded the program. “We are a forerunner in waste diversion. That’s exciting to me.” The initiative is being undertaken in partnership with Texas Disposal Systems, which collects all three components of waste: recycling, compost and landfill trash. This has allowed for many items

Making your home a healthy haven.

house. yard. planet.

that were only just recently sent to the landfill (including cardboard, most forms of plastic and even the food trays put out for spa guests) to serve a higher purpose. “We divert almost everything, except for a minimal amount of trash that doesn’t compost or go into sin-

Hummingbird ecocleaning

gle-stream recycling, such as straws or condiment containers,” says LaLonde. “Almost everything else, you can divert to single-stream and compost.” Indeed, between December 2012 and February 2013, the hotel diverted 216,520 pounds from the landfill, which is 85 tons more than the same period the previous year.


While the hotel’s sustainability team’s goal is to achieve zero-waste status in two years—decades sooner than the City of Austin’s own plan for a 90-percent diversion rate by the year 2040—the team says


they’re not stopping there. They hope to eventually make the program a closed loop by using the hotel’s own compost to enrich the soil for the chef ’s kitchen garden as well as the surrounding area along Lady Bird Lake. But for now, LaLonde says it’s satisfying to see people from all areas of the hotel—food and beverage workers, housekeeping staff, even guests—enthusiastically doing their part to keep things out of the landfill. “It took us almost two years to get this in place,” LaLonde says. “But we believe in our earth and in having a legacy for the future. It’s the right thing to do.” Find out more at





F O R D E TA I L S & T O R S V P V I S I T:




Edible health

Glass of the good by Deborah Herriage • photography by Jenna noel

“Juicing has increased in popularity as consumers become more educated about its nutritional benefits.” —Mason Arnold, Greenling





ver the last several years, Austin has seen a growth

greens and adding fiber supplements to juices are two of the fastest

in markets that provide fresh, organic, low-calo-

growing trends we’re seeing at our juice bars,” says Whole Foods Mar-

rie-yet-tasty, nutrient-dense drinks. Juice bars and

ket’s healthy eating specialist Kelly Dennis. However you like your

smoothie spots are hot, and seem to be popping up

juice, though, those in the business suggest using produce that’s in

everywhere. But while blending and juicing fruits

season and harvested locally whenever possible to ensure a juice of

and vegetables isn’t exactly new, this current local

the highest quality and nutrition.

health trend seems much more focused on the quality and contents in the cup and the desired post-sip results.

And juice vendors appear to be listening to customers’ desires and tailoring their juices to fit current needs and lifestyles. For example,

Ronnie Larkin, chief operating officer of Daily Juice—the forerun-

People’s Pharmacy offers gluten-free, cold pressed juices, and Green-

ner of local juice bars—has noticed a slow widening in his customer

ling, a local grocery delivery service, offers to-your-door, cold-pressed

base, which now includes everybody from shorts-and-flip-flop-sport-

juices and juice kits that feature pre-cleaned and prepped produce for

ing slackers and athletes on a run, to young professionals, the stroller

home juicing. Greenling’s co-founder Mason Arnold says that “juic-

set and the downtown crowd in pressed suits and Italian shoes. Larkin

ing has increased in popularity as consumers become more educated

refers to the movement as a macro-trend in the already heightened

about its nutritional benefits. New technologies such as cold-press-

health consciousness of our current culture, where transparency and

ing increase the shelf-life and micro-nutrient values in juices. We are

details like food origination and source are important. “We wanted to

excited to make cold-pressed juices made with organic ingredients

create the kind of environment where people can see their juice being

available to customers.”

made and learn about the preparation,” says Larkin.

Whichever direction the trend goes from here, most will agree that

It’s true; people appear to be taking something as unassuming as

juicing can mean high nutrition in a glass and provides a healthy coun-

juice much more seriously and looking at it with new eyes. Shauna

terbalance to the more harmful trends of obesity, diabetes and heart

Martin, founder and CEO of Daily Greens, says that “juicing used to be

disease. Experiment with color, variety, savory and sweet, and invite

considered a way for raw foodies and celebrities to cleanse their way

the kids in to invent their own special blends. Happy juicing!

to perfection. Now, it’s gone from a novelty to a viable market segment of the ever-growing healthy food industry.” Matt Shook, the founder and owner of Austin’s JuiceLand and a partner at Juicebox and Soup Peddler, says that part of the popularity of juicing is that it also provides our on-the-go society a convenient, effective way to get in those daily portions of vegetables and fruits—now a hefty five cups a day recommended by the U.S. Department of Health and Human Services Dietary Guidelines for Americans. “We juice the drinks on our menus the minute they’re ordered,” says Shook. “And we encourage our customers to drink it on the spot; to use juice like medicine.” And people are. In addition to the convenience and delicious taste of fresh juices, many believe there are far deeper-reaching health benefits derived from imbibing. In the book The Juice Lady’s Guide to Juicing for Health, author and nutritionist Cherie Calbom claims that juices can be used as remedies for many common conditions such as arthritis, high cholesterol, weight management and even diverticulitis. And according to veteran juice experts like Dr. Norman W. Walker and Green for Life author Victoria Boutenko, drinking juice from fresh fruits and vegetables provides more immediate nutritional value to cells and tissues in the body. Juices help to maintain certain balances—like proper hydration, which is a key element to a healthy body, helps fight inflammation and supports a healthy immune system, especially for our athletic population in Central Texas climes. Dr. Walker notes that celery juice, for example, has a high water and sodium chloride content that can counteract the effects of extreme heat. But to eat the required amount of celery to have the desired hydrating effect would take more digestive time than drinking the juice with a bit of fruit added, or even more vegetables and fruits. He suggests that juicing and giving the digestive system a rest from time to time is key to good health and living longer. Many followers of the juicing trend prefer only pure juice without the solids, while others prefer juices containing the natural fiber, the

Choosing the Right Juicer High-powered blenders pulverize whole produce—giving the resulting juice a thicker consistency with more fiber. Those seeking only the juice (without the pulp) will need to strain the blend to separate it out. The Vitamix has been the popular forerunner of high-powered blenders for years, though it’s pricey ($500 range). Alternatives like the Nutribullet, relatively new on the scene, offer a more affordable blending alternative ($100 range). Extraction juicers use either a centrifugal-force action or a mastication and pressing action (also known as “cold-press” and “slow juicing”) to separate the pulp from the juice. Matt Shook recommends the Norwalk for those very serious about juicing. It has a hydraulic press and is hardworking for those tough greens—but it, too, is pricey at $2,000+. Alternatives like the many different juicers made by Breville offer consumers more affordable options. A good extraction juicer, either centrifugal force or masticating, should be able to extract the juices of all types of produce and separate or eject the pulp. It should have a wide mouth or large feed tube and few parts to clean. Look for adequate horsepower of 0.3 to 0.5 amps, and be aware that although centrifugal-force juicers tend to be more affordable than masticating juicers, they’re also louder and the amount of heat created during the centrifugal process is believed to result in some loss of nutrients. If you use juices mainly for cooking or baking, this may not be a concern. Centrifugal-force juicers are also less efficient in extracting juice from greens, and most are not able to process nuts sufficiently for nut butters. Tip: Pulp (insoluble fiber) from both fruits and vegetables can be stored in the freezer for a few days and used for thickening soups and pasta sauces, in muffin or cookie recipes or combined with flaxseed meal and olive oil and dehydrated for nutritious gluten-free breads and crackers. Consider adding pulp to the daily dog-food bowl for an extra dollop of goodness.

whole fruits or vegetables, or even desired supplements. “Increasing EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM



Essential DIY Juicing Basics

Green Energy

• Soak older juicer parts in white vinegar and water after

Courtesy of Mason Arnold, Greenling

scrubbing, or cut a lemon in half and squeeze the juice over the parts to kill bacteria. Newer juicers now come with specific instructions for cleaning their parts.

• Always wash and scrub produce well before juicing. Peel

anything not organic. Use warm water to remove the waxy coating on cucumbers, apples and other fruits with skins, even if they’re organic. Peeling will remove some pesticides, but you’ll lose precious minerals and fiber, so choose accordingly.

• Peel lemons, but leave the pith. Use citrus juicers when only the juice is desired.

• Many seeds can be pulverized with blenders such as a

Vitamix, and can be nutritionally beneficial, but avoid seeds from apples, loquats and pears as well as pits from stone fruits, as these are toxic.

• Consider

including things like ginger, parsley, cilantro and mint, and experimenting with both sweet and savory juices. Make smoothies with your juices by adding berries or avocados in a blender. A yummy example is a green juice made from green apple, spinach, cucumber, celery and lemon blended with an avocado.

• Drink juice as fresh as possible. Some can be stored in the fridge in a canning jar for one day, but any longer and nutrients diminish.

Makes 1 drink 1 cucumber 3 stalks Swiss chard (leaves and stems) 2 handfuls spinach 1 bunch fresh parsley ¼ jalapeño pepper, ribs and seeds removed ¼-in. piece fresh ginger 1 pinch turmeric 2 T. coconut water

Wash all ingredients well, then feed into an extracting juicer (not a blender).

Ginger-Kale Delight Courtesy of Matt Shook, JuiceLand Makes 1 drink 10 oz. frozen peaches (use fresh peaches in season this summer!) 10 oz. alkalinized water 1 oz. agave nectar ½ c. chopped fresh kale 1 t. unpeeled and grated fresh ginger Wash all ingredients well and put into a high-powered blender.

Early Morning Yum Courtesy of Deborah Herriage

JUICES BY THE SEASON J uices are always better when made using local, seasonal ingredients. To know what’s in season in our area, keep the list below handy when heading to the market.

Makes 1 drink 1 large apple 2 large carrots ½ lemon, peeled

Wash all ingredients well, then feed into an extracting juicer (not a Spring: beets, berries, carrots, celery, chard, cilantro, citrus (grapefruit, oranges), kale, parsley, spinach, sorrel, turnip and beet greens


Summer: apples (late summer), berries, carrots, chard, cucumbers, figs, kale, melons, mint, parsley, peaches, tomatoes

Courtesy of Deborah Herriage

Fall: apples, carrots, chard, cilantro, cucumbers, figs, grapefruit, kale, melons, mint, parsley, pears, tomatoes Winter: beets, carrots, chard, cilantro, citrus (grapefruit, lemons and oranges), dandelion greens, fennel, kale, parsley, sorrel, spinach, turnip and beet greens

Find more seasonal juice recipes and where to find for-purchace fresh juices at 68



Free Radical Fighter Makes 1 drink 2 handfuls Swiss chard 1 avocado 1 c. watermelon 1 c. blackberries 1 fig ½ cup blueberries 1 /8 cup flax seeds water

Wash all ingredients well, then feed into an extracting juicer or high-powered blender.

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Bride of Tequila a conversation with author Lucinda Hutson, by Shannon Oelrich


visit to Lucinda Hutson’s iconic amethyst-purple casita in the Rosedale neighborhood isn’t complete without a tour of her verdant gardens and a nip of tequila. Not a shot, mind

you, just a little taste in a glass, much like a serving of fine liqueur, to be enjoyed slowly while strolling among the rooms of her extensive outdoor growing space; each room a tiny vignette with mosaic works, unique furnishings and carefully chosen plants. Today’s offering is a blanco tequila, clear and cold, with a strong hit of lime off the top and an earthy, sweet flavor on the finish that Hutson says is agave. She should know, having tasted agave both raw (so caustic that it raised blisters on her lip) and roasted. As Hutson waxes poetic about the flavor profile of the blanco, the agave plant that created it and its homeland of Mexico, it quickly Photography by

becomes clear just how intertwined and enamored she is with the family of tequila and the many different ways it represents a lifeblood in Mexico. Although stateside the spirit is often unfairly maligned as the affordable go-to for college students hoping to get a buzz as quickly as possible, Hutson hopes to change American minds with her new book, ¡Viva Tequila!—a celebration of the complexity and variety of tequila, its production and its rich heritage. Edible Austin: In 1995, you published a book called ¡Tequila! Cooking with the Spirit of Mexico, mostly a cookbook with some history and facts about the potent liquor. Why revisit tequila when you’ve already written a book on it? Lucinda Hutson: ¡Viva Tequila! is my love letter to Mexico. In fact, the dedication in my book reads: “Para Mexico: Lindo y Querido” [“For Mexico: Beautiful and Beloved”]. I’ve been traveling there for thirty years. I love the

Mexican food, barbecue, et cetera, but a shot of tequila—often with

culture, the traditions, the land, the food. I wanted to tell the story of te-

sangrita—is served as an aperitif and often between courses, but

quila while preserving the traditions that surround it. Tequila has changed

may also be sipped and savored slowly throughout the meal. A lovely

so much over the years. Production is being modernized, even at some of

añejo often follows in a snifter with dessert, or you might have a

the family-run distilleries, and demand for it in the U.S. and worldwide is

warm fruit punch after dinner, which is family friendly, to which the

increasing exponentially. I wanted to tell how tequila used to be crafted,

adults would add tequila. Many Mexicans prefer their tequila neat—

as well as how it can be finely made today while changing with the times.

straight up. They like the pure flavor.

EA: What are some ways tequila is enjoyed in Mexico that might be new to us?

EA: We know about sangria, but what is sangrita?. LH: Not to be confused with sangria, Spain’s popular red wine,

LH: In Mexico, there’s a tradition of long dinners, especially on

brandy and fruit spritzer, traditional Mexican sangrita is more like

Sundays and during fiestas, with extended family and friends—ev-

a spicy Bloody Mary, although without the tomato. The red comes

eryone sitting around the table. Adults sip tequila or enjoy different

from the chiles, which are added to citrus juices to create a tangy, pi-

drinks throughout the seasons. A margarita with its cool, tart, limy

quant drink that pairs perfectly with a one-hundred-percent blanco

flavor tastes good throughout a meal, especially with grilled meats,

or reposada tequila, which is sipped alongside it.




EA: You grew up in El Paso speaking fluent Spanish and traveling back and forth to Juárez, and thirty years ago, you traveled to Mexico


alone. How have things changed since those times? LH: When I went thirty years ago, I was mostly ignorant of any

Tequila’s Spicy Chaser

danger. There were only one or two times that I thought, “Nobody knows where I am. Anything could happen.” And nothing ever did. People were warm and welcoming, helpful and open. I traveled to Mexico two years ago, and while people are still welcoming, many places were heavily guarded. I didn’t encounter any violence, but I wouldn’t travel alone anymore. I hope that, until people feel safe about traveling there again, my book will help transport them there in mind and spirit. Much of the premise of my book is to encourage folks to create their own home cantinas and to entertain as graciously here as they do in Mexico, and to preserve the traditions of how tequila and mezcal [another agave-derived alcoholic beverage] are imbibed in Mexico. That way, [they] can experience Mexico in their own backyards or homes without crossing the border. EA: Your book follows the history of agave-born beverages—from their possible origins in the caves near the modern-day town of Tequila to today. What sent you in search of all this in the first place?

Excerpt from ¡Viva Tequila!: Cocktails, Cooking, and Other Agave Adventures, by Lucinda Hutson (Copyright © 1995 and 2013 by Lucinda Hutson) used by permission of the University of Texas Press. For more information visit


n Jalisco, shot glasses filled with sangrita, a spicy and refreshing non-alcoholic chaser, arrive without request at the

table when you order a shot of tequila. A sip of this blood-red chaser simultaneously piques all taste buds in an explosion of sweet, tart, sour, salty, and piquant flavors, making it a natural compadre for tequila. Most mexicanos prefer it with a shot of reposado, but blanco also complements sangrita’s fresh flavor. It’s called sangrita (the Spanish diminutive for “blood”) because of its rich sanguine color. Americans often assume it’s made with a Bloody Mary mix. However, authentic sangrita

LH: I dated a matador who did some advertising for a tequila

gets its color and flavor from fiery red chiles, not from toma-

company, and he set up an interview in a distillery. Although things

toes. Just as the margarita was first made to please gringo pal-

didn’t work out with the matador, I soon fell in love with tequila and

ates, the sangrita often served now in Mexico unfortunately

the magical transformation from agave to distillate. The agave plant

reflects North American influences—most notably, the addi-

is a fascination in and of itself.

tion of tomato juice. Today even many Mexicans think it is a

EA: While learning about the process of making tequila, what most surprised or fascinated you?

traditional ingredient. In authentic sangrita, fresh citrus and pomegranate juices offer brightness and balance. (Often, grenadine syrup is used

LH: The magical transformation of the starchy, white heart, or

instead.) Since fresh pomegranates (or their bottled juice) now

piña, of the agave into fermentable sugar, obtained by baking the

are readily available, there’s no excuse not to make it in the

piña. What comes out of the oven resembles and tastes like a sweet

traditional manner. Bottled Jaliscan red chile salsa, made from

potato drenched in honey. Once crushed and fermented, it is distilled

fiery puya chiles, gives sangrita kick and color.

into tequila. Whoever thought—like in the production of chocolate and vanilla—that bitter beginnings would yield sumptuous treats? EA: Throughout your book, you mention some dichos, or traditional Spanish sayings, and how they’re used as toasts when drinking tequila. What are some of your favorites?

Commercially bottled brands of sangrita exist in Mexico and can now be found in some markets in the United States. They usually don’t keep well once opened, are artificially flavored and sweetened, and lack the sassy bite of the puya. Although others boast of being the creator of sangrita, Guadalupe Sanchez purportedly created the well-known Mexican brand,

LH: ¡Salud, dinero y amor, y bastante tiempo para gozarlo!

Vuida de Sanchez, in the 1930s at Lake Chapala, near Guadala-

(“Health, wealth and romance, and enough time to enjoy them all!”)

jara. American-made brands of sangrita are hitting the market,

Con barriga llena, el corazón contento. La tequila buena, las penas ya

too, though the ones I’ve seen are made with tomato juice.

no siento. (“With a full belly, a happy heart. A good tequila makes my troubles depart.”) Para todo mal, mezcal. Para todo bien, también. (“For all that ails you, mezcal. For all that’s good, as well.”)

My advice? You simply cannot bottle freshness, so make your own! The best sangrita is made from scratch in cantinas and cocinas, and the recipes are usually well-guarded secrets. I first created my version in 1990, before sangrita became widely known on this side of the border. Because of tequila’s popularity today, sangrita contests (like hot sauce contests) are the rage. Contestants often add nontraditional ingredients—charred tomatoes, pomegranate molasses, and even garlicky Thai sriracha sauce or horseradish—to their recipes, which, in my opinion, counteract the purpose of this tequila chaser: to highlight, not overwhelm, tequila’s flavor. [Recipes on following pages.] EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM



SANGRITA recipes from ¡Viva Tequila! Excerpts from ¡Viva Tequila! Cocktails, Cooking, and Other Agave Adventures, by Lucinda Hutson (Copyright © 1995 and 2013 by Lucinda Hutson) used by permission of the University of Texas Press. For more information visit

Sangrita La Lucinda Makes approximately 7 cups (24 shots) ...I store homemade sangritas in the fridge in bottles that once held tequila. I must admit, my sangrita is always the hit of a party, leaving guests begging for the recipe and attempting to discern the ingredients. It’s simple to make! 4 c. freshly squeezed orange juice 1½ c. 100% natural pomegranate juice ½ c. freshly squeezed lime juice, preferably from Mexican limes 8 oz. commercially bottled Salsa Valentina or Salsa Tamazula or homemade Salsa Puya Salt or Cantina Classic Sal de Sangrita*, to taste

Mix ingredients together and chill overnight or longer (it just gets better). Adjust flavorings al gusto (to taste) for the perfect balance. Serve chilled in shot glasses to accompany shots of tequila blanco

Salsa Puya

or reposado. Sangrita keeps for more than a week refrigerated. Notes: I love a glass of this non-alcoholic wake-me-up for breakfast

Makes 1 cup Salsa Puya is as ubiquitous in Jalisco as Tabasco is in Louisiana. This fiery brick-red hot sauce, bottled in Jalisco, gives this region’s sangrita its unique flavor. It’s also sprinkled on meats and tostadas and all sorts of botanitas (snacks). The puya chile, related to the guajillo, is a dried, blood-red chile about four inches long, tapering to a curved tip. Its flavor is decidedly tart, almost limey, with a piquancy that assaults the back of the tongue. Look for puya chiles in specialty Mexican markets or substitute combinations of other dried red chiles such as chile de árbol, guajillo, New Mexico, or cayenne. When you can’t make your own, use commercially bottled table sauces such as Valentina or Tamazula, imported from Mexico, and readily found in Latin American markets. 2 oz. puya chiles (approximately 30) 1½ c. very hot water, to cover ¼ c. mild fruity cider vinegar or part rice wine vinegar 2 T. chopped red onion ½ t. dried Mexican oregano, optional ½ t. salt

Briefly toast chiles on a hot comal, or griddle, turning continually; take caution not to burn them! Remove stems, seeds, and veins. Place chiles in a small bowl, cover with water, and let soak about 30 minutes. After soaking, place chiles in a blender with just enough soaking water (about ½ cup) to make a thick sauce. Add vinegar, onion, oregano, and salt, and puree. Strain through a sieve and keep re-

or a midday pick-me-up. Use less salsa for less incendiary sangrita. For a fiesta presentation, chill bottles of red Sangrita La Lucinda, yellow Sangrita Amarilla, and a green version, Sangrita Verdecita, in an ice bucket, along with a bottle of tequila blanco or reposado. Let guests choose their favorite sangrita to sip with a shot of tequila. • Find recipe for Cantina Classic Sal de Sangrita at

María Sangrita (Mexican Bloody Mary) Makes 1 drink This is much more revitalizing than a Bloody Mary, morning, noon, or night. It’s a feisty drink to imbibe at Guadalajara’s El Patio Tapatío, while listening to mariachis bellow lusty rancheras (ranch songs). Patrons enthusiastically sing along, after spending a day bargaining for pottery, silver jewelry, curios, and crafts in Tlaquepaque. Or serve it at your next Sunday brunch…and wish you were in Jalisco. 5 oz. Sangrita La Lucinda 1¾ oz. silver or reposado tequila Juice of ½ lime Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste ½ t. grated onion Garnishes: fluted scallion or chile pepper flower, orange slice dusted with chile powder, lime wedge

frigerated. (It will keep, tightly covered, in the refrigerator for more

Fill a tall glass with ice and mix in the ingredients. Use a fluted scal-

than a week and can be thinned with a few tablespoons of water, as

lion as a swizzle stick, or hook an orange slice dusted with chile pow-


der, a chile pepper flower, or a lime wedge on the rim of the glass.





• Bookstore • Giftshop • Coffeehouse

Sangrita Amarilla Makes approximately 5 cups ...This fruity amarilla (“yellow”) version sings of mango, citrus,

9 am - 11 pm everyday shop online at:

603 N. Lamar 472-5050

ginger and pineapple, with a blast of fiery habanero to ignite taste buds…and make a sip of tequila taste especially good! 1 heaping T. fresh, peeled ginger, loosely chopped 1 fresh habanero chile, seeded and stemmed, or a few shakes of bottled habanero salsa 2 mangos (¾ pound each), not overly ripe, peeled, and loosely chopped 1 /3 c. loosely chopped red onion 1 t. coriander seeds, freshly ground 1½ t. spicy Mexican Seasoning Salt 1 c. pineapple juice 2 c. orange juice with pulp ½ c. freshly squeezed lime juice Agave syrup to taste, if needed

Grind ginger and habanero in a blender. Add mango, red onion,

Color Fabulous

ground coriander, and spicy salt; coarsely puree. Blend in juices; adjust flavors and chill overnight. Thin with more citrus juices as needed. Serve ice cold to accompany shots of tequila.

Sangrita Verdecito Makes 5 cups Here’s another spicy tequila chaser. Felipe Camarena, founder of Tequila Ocho, a stand-out, single-estate tequila from the Arandas area, described to me a refreshing chaser that he had tasted in London,

find it at

where tequila has become very popular. I made up my own recipe and call it “Sangrita Verdecito,” or “something spicy and green.” 1 lb. tomatillos, husked and quartered (10–12) 3 or more serranos, seeded, chopped 4 green onions, chopped with some of their green tops ¾ c. cilantro, chopped 4 T. fresh mint, chopped ½ c. freshly squeezed lime juice 3 c. pineapple juice 1 t. Cantina Classic Sal de Sangrita* ½ t. crushed, dried chile de árbol to taste, optional Agave syrup to sweeten, optional

With slow pulses, grind together tomatillos, serranos, onions, cilantro, and mint in a blender. Add lime and pineapple juices and salt and blend lightly; do not over-blend. Chill several hours or overnight. Adjust flavors, adding more lime juice, chile de árbol, or agave syrup, if needed. Keep refrigerated for several days. EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM



Edible endurance

WHEATSVILLE FOOD Co-OP by Elizabeth Winslow • Photography by Dustin Meyer


n the 1960s and ’70s, the environmental movement was just

Also during this time, a group formed around the idea of communi-

taking hold in our national consciousness, and a demand was

ty access to healthy, natural foods and the Austin Community Project

growing for healthy, natural foods. Regular grocery stores were

(ACP) was born. By 1973, the ACP included two food co-ops, several

filled with processed “food of the future,” and natural, unprocessed

buying clubs, three farms, a bakery, four restaurants and numerous

foods were not much of an option. It was at this time that food co-

housing co-ops. Soon, food co-op activists were discussing a new

ops began to appear as an alternative to the conventional grocery

vision for the food co-ops. They wanted to create a bigger store with

store—allowing an invested community to have access to healthy,

more space, and products that would entice mainstream shoppers

unprocessed foods. And alternative ideas also flourished as new

while staying true to the original founders’ values of quality, commu-

paths were forged—early grocery co-ops in Austin included one

nity and sustainability—a community grocery for the future. In 1975,

known for its “pay what you like” model, and another that did its

the group found a building for lease on the corner of Lamar and 29th,

accounting in harmony with the phases of the moon.

and the community-owned Wheatsville Co-op opened its doors.




“We decided we might not be the biggest or the fanciest, but we were going to be the friendliest store in town” —Dan Gillotte

Underfunded in the beginning, the store was originally staffed

team came on board; sales grew exponentially; it looked like the tide

by volunteers (called “turnups” because they simply “turned up” to

might be turning. General Manager Dan Gillotte says that during this

work) who stocked the shelves, unloaded deliveries, bagged grocer-

period, Wheatsville was becoming the “little food co-op that just,

ies, did construction and mopped the floors. The store was barely

maybe, could.”

able to survive this rocky financial start. But even without deep fi-

Then, in 1995, less than one mile from Wheatsville, H-E-B opened

nancial resources, the community continually kept an eye on creat-

the gleaming, glittering, gourmet emporium Central Market and

ing a bigger and better neighborhood store with a deli and a wider

sales at the co-op began to free-fall. Management did what they

array of products on the shelves. Just five years after opening, the

could to create an imperative to the co-op’s members to save the

store saw an opportunity to realize the next phase of growth as the

communal grocery, and sales again began to climb slowly back up.

Kash-Karry grocery on Guadalupe was going out of business, leaving behind a larger space. Wheatsville moved in.

Three years later, the board hired Gillotte as general manager. His tenure has witnessed steadily climbing sales and a deep com-

Financially, times continued to be tough, but the management

mitment to a vision and message that allows Wheatsville to stand

board took the leap and community members again pitched in to gut

up against the other big groceries in town—carving out a signifi-

and remodel the new store. With the new real estate came an effort

cant niche. “We decided we might not be the biggest or the fanciest,

to run the co-op in a more professional and organized manner—hir-

but we were going to be the friendliest store in town,” Gillotte says

ing staff, ending a dependence on volunteer turnups and creating

proudly. Visits to the store’s Yelp listing bear this out—just about

strategic plans for growth and profitability. Unfortunately, labor and operating costs and debt weighed heavily on the store’s resources. But the community persevered. Dedicated and determined staff members volunteered hundreds of work hours; a new management

(Opposite page): General Manager Dan Gillotte (center) with today’s Wheatsville Food Co-op crew. (Left): 1981 reopening celebration at Guadalupe location. EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM



(Left): 1970s checkout at the 29th Street location. (Below): Checkout at today’s Guadalupe store.

every review mentions the friendly, engaged and helpful staff. Gillotte

our owners,” he says. “This gives us all the benefits of a mom-and-

cites the core principals of the co-op model as the foundation that

pop business, but with the strength for longevity. We don’t have to

allows this friendly vibe to flourish. “We are truly a part of our com-

worry about what might happen to the business when mom and pop

munity—everyone is invested in our success and vice versa,” he says.

retire or die, because we’re owned by a community.” There are other

“The downside of the investor-owned business is that really only a

benefits as well. “Being owned by a community means that we are

few people benefit from its success. At Wheatsville, we all benefit:

compelled to stay true to our community values,” Gillotte continues,

the staff, the management team, the owners and shoppers and the

“which are not dictated by Wall Street. Wall Street demands contin-

community.” Gillotte loves the fact that the co-op grocery is, by its

ual returns, but we have the flexibility to reinvest in what matters to

nature, hyperlocal. “We’ve always bought from local farms and car-

us. We think about the next thirty years, not just the next quarter.”

ried local products,” he says. “It’s not a fad; it’s who we are, because we’re invested in this community.”

What’s next for Wheatsville? The store’s underlying mission is to create good in the world, and the board and owners have come to

Gillotte set out to study what other successful, thriving co-ops

believe in recent years that multiple stores will amplify the positive

were doing right. He became a member of the National Cooperative

impact in our community. The second store is slated to open in July

Grocers Association and started learning from the group’s members.

of this year, stocked with all of the local, healthy, natural and deli-

He brought great improvements in customer service, merchandis-

cious products customers have come to expect from the original.

ing, product selection and labor efficiency. He works hard and is

Staying true to its roots, but with an eye on the future, Wheatsville is

passionate about what makes the co-op model work. “We have an

creating a legacy that’s rich in history—a living testament to the way

inborn, fundamental need to serve our customers, because they are

we care about food and each other.




Visit our model home parks in:

New Model Now Open

Round Top, TX

Wimberley, TX

(9 79) 278- 3015

(5 1 2 ) 3 9 2 -6 5 9 1 EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM




Making a Big Splash by kristi willis • graphic by jenna noel


elly up to a bar around the state and you’re likely to be greeted

compared to the rest of the United States we are still pretty far be-

with a lengthy list of offerings from Texas wineries, breweries

hind,” says Scott Metzger, owner of Freetail Brewing Company in San

and distilleries. The Texas beverage industry, once a modest

Antonio and member of the Texas Craft Brewers Guild. “In fact we

economic niche occupied by a few larger players and a healthy num-

rank forty-fifth out of the fifty states and Washington D.C., in terms of

ber of hobbyists turned entrepreneurs, is now an award-winning sec-

breweries per capita.”

tor that means big business in Texas—creating thousands of jobs and attracting fans from around the globe.

To create more opportunities for their members, the Texas Craft Brewers Guild has been working with members of the Texas legis-

According to economic impact studies, Texas breweries and winer-

lature to remove some of the barriers to growth. Brewpubs, for ex-

ies employ more than 2,400 people directly, but their real fiscal muscle

ample, want to be able to distribute their beer outside of their own

is felt through the jobs created by supporting industries like distrib-

facilities—meaning customers could buy a pint of Freetail or other

utors, custom-crush facilities and mobile bottling and canning units.

brewpub beer without driving to San Antonio. Breweries, on the other

Add in the jobs and cash brought in through tourism, and the finan-

hand, are lobbying to be able to sell beer directly to customers at their

cial splash the beverage industry brings to the state becomes crys-

facilities—much like wineries—so that people can enjoy a pint after

tal clear—over 17,000 direct and indirect jobs. Paula Angerstein, the

a brewery tour.

founder of Paula’s Texas Spirits and secretary of the Texas Distilled

The distillers recently earned the right to sell liquor by the glass

Spirits Association, explains, “Tourism is a big part of the industry.

and retail bottles at their facilities through legislation sponsored by

Our industry can become a big draw to the state like the Kentucky

Senator Leticia Van de Putte. Starting September 1, 2013, visitors to

Bourbon Trail…it becomes a reason why people come here.”

distilleries in wet counties can buy a drink during their visit and pur-

The Texas distilleries are still young and small enough as an in-

chase bottles of alcohol to take home with them.

dustry to not have measured their economic impact, but with 44 ac-

After decades of hard work to make it easier to buy, ship and enjoy

tive distiller permits and a 64 percent increase in production between

Texas wine, the legislative focus for the wineries is on a few tweaks

2011 and 2012 according to the Texas Alcoholic Beverage Commission,

needed to make the industry stronger. Two bills introduced during

they’re clearly growing. Tito’s Handmade Vodka is the heavyweight

this legislative session aim to do just that. The first bill would allow

among local distilleries—churning out two million of the two and a

wineries—many of which have event centers for entertaining—to stay

half million gallons of spirits produced statewide in 2012. But other

open until two in the morning rather than midnight on New Year’s

brands, like SAVVY Vodka, Rebecca Creek Distillery and Balcones

Eve and allow guests to celebrate without cutting off the annual toast.

Distilling, have increased production by more than 40 percent and are

The other bill defines what it means to be a winery—requiring manufacturers to produce or blend wine at the facility and preventing

building strong followings. For the wineries, the increase in the gallons bottled isn’t the only

people from cashing in on the industry’s growth by using production

sign of growth. A common early complaint about Texas wine was that

terms inappropriately. Reynolds explains, “In essence, if you open up a

much of it was created using grapes grown outside the state. As the

winery you are expected to produce, but there are some places that are

industry ages, more and more wineries are relying on Texas grapes

only tasting rooms, never planning to produce. Some of the competi-

alone—proudly touting the achievement with a 100 percent Texas

tion feels that those are no different from a package store.”

grapes designation on the labels. “If we see the same expansion we

As the Texas beverage industry grows, there will be more chal-

have now, in roughly five years there should be enough acreage grow-

lenges and hurdles to overcome, but the payoff in new jobs, business

ing grapes in Texas that no winery will have to go outside of the state

opportunities and deepening the unique Texas experience for visitors

for grapes,” said Debbie Reynolds, executive director of the Texas

is worth the effort. “It is an amazing culture that is unlike any other

Wine and Grape Growers Association.

business,” says Metzger. “Even amongst all our competitors we are still

While the craft breweries are experiencing incredible growth both

very friendly and are a community as opposed to an industry in a lot

in the number of breweries and brewpubs and the gallons of beer

of ways. With that said, it’s not something you jump into to get rich

they’re manufacturing, the Texas craft-brewing industry is not grow-

quick. It’s something you get into because you have a passion for it and

ing as quickly as in other parts of the country. “When you look at

are in it for the long haul.”

Texas isolated in a bubble it looks great, but when you look at things 78



Cheers to the long haul for Texas breweries, distilleries and wineries!


102 breweries / brewpubs




276 wineries



in 2012*



breweries / brewpubs








$15 million

$91.5 million


$.9 million

$92.1 million

* Source: Texas Alcoholic Beverage Commission as of March 28, 2013 Job, wage and tax figures were obtained from the 2011 Texas Wine and Grape Growers Association and 2012 Texas Craft Brewers Guild economic impact reports





A Brief History of the American Cocktail by David Alan • photography by Aimee Wenske Excerpted from Tipsy Texan: Spirits and Cocktails from the Lone Star State by David Alan (Andrews McMeel Publishing, June 11, 2013)


he mixing of drinks dates back

er facing the bartender, because that

to time immemorial, with rec-

person had not yet emerged as a pro-

ipes in all manner of ancient

fessional distinct from the multifaceted tavern keeper of yore.

texts for drinks to cure what ails you. The history of the cocktail, by con-

As the young nation began to in-

trast, is comparatively modern, and

dustrialize and urbanize in the nine-

distinctly American. Our colonial

teenth century, drinking habits like-

forebears came to these shores with

wise evolved. It was not unusual for

plenty of intoxicating cargo, but only

apprentices and masters working in

rudimentary ideas for mixed drinks—

small shops to go through much of

lightly alcoholic drinks such as sylla-

their day under some kind of mild in-

bubs, caudles, and flips that were rich

ebriation. Alcohol was a good source

in calories from eggs and milk. Punch

of calories— fermentation and distil-

was a noteworthy exception and

lation are above all else a means of

reigned supreme over the pre-cock-

preserving grain and fruit. Likewise,

tails. Within one hundred years of the

before the advent of modern purifi-

nation’s founding, however, a wildly

cation techniques, alcohol was added

innovative, distinctly American cock-

to water for its antibacterial qualities.

tail cuisine would emerge and be-

This all changed as the factory sys-

gin to be exported to points far and

tem developed. Whereas a few men

wide—an alcoholic ambassador from

can safely sit in a workshop making

the fledgling United States.

saddles under the influence, the game changes when hundreds or thousands

••• In colonial America, the idea of

of people have to work in close prox-

the individual drink had not yet tak-

imity, around expensive (and dangerous) manufacturing equipment. It is

en hold. Communal drinking was the norm, punch was often drunk straight from the bowl, and toasting to

no coincidence that it was not just religionists who were the most

health was widespread. Those were bibulous times, with per capita

vocal proponents of Prohibition, but also industrialists such as John

consumption many times higher than it is today. Not only was it un-

D. Rockefeller.

common (even unhealthy) to drink straight water, it was considered

The evolution of the commercial ice trade was also a major con-

pitiable by some commentators. Much community activity centered

tributor to the emergence of cocktails and professional bartend-

around the tavern, and the tavern centered around the punch bowl.

ers. Whereas ice had previously been available as a luxury for the

To the modern eye, one of the first things we notice when looking at

wealthy, the development of sophisticated harvesting, storage, and

engravings of these old “bars” is that there is no bar—customers sat

transportation techniques by Frederick “the Ice King” Tudor enabled

around tables, facing one another. They did not sit at a long count-

the democratization and spread of ice. Cut in winter from northern




ponds, lakes, and rivers, huge blocks of ice were shipped in insulated

increased interest in the South Pacific manifested itself across the mid-

cargo vessels to ports as far away as New Orleans, Havana, and Cal-

dlebrow culture of the day. Americans had now been exposed to the

cutta. New tools and techniques were developed to incorporate ice

allure of the Orient, and “Polynesian Pop” took the country by storm.

into drinks, and with them countless recipes, many of which were

What started in the backyard of Hollywood in the 1930s had spread by

collected in the first known drinks book to be published in the Unit-

the 1950s such that one could escape to the tropics in just about any

ed States, The Bar-Tender’s Guide (1862), by Jerry Thomas. The age

city in America—everything from shopping malls to home decor soon

of the cocktail bartender was born, and many of the modern tools

benefited from a touch of the islands.

and major recipes that are in use today were developed by the closing decades of the nineteenth century.

Whereas tiki palaces provided the most flamboyant means of escape, the most common sanctuary was the home itself. As Elaine Tyler May

However, the cocktail party didn’t last long as the Women’s Chris-

writes in Homeward Bound, “The home seemed to offer a secure private

tian Temperance Union (WCTU), the largest and most powerful wom-

nest removed from the dangers of the outside world.” Seeking respite

en’s organization of its time, advocated for temperance, not complete

from the din of war, the deprivation of the Depression, and the chaos

abstinence—moderation, not abolition. But temperance evolved into a

of crowded cities, Americans flocked to the countryside to populate it

full on prohibition movement with the emergence of such single-issue

with suburbs. America flexed its industrial might in a mind-boggling

parties as the Anti-Saloon League. The ASL was so effective at making

collusion of developers and homebuilders, automobile manufacturers,

it untenable for a politician to be publicly wet that both major politi-

tire makers, and road building contractors, all supported by government

cal parties added Prohibition to their respective platforms by 1918. The

will and the GI Bill. In a short time, suburbanization forever changed the

Eighteenth Amendment was ratified by the states on January 16, 1919,

American landscape, and it also changed the way we drink.

and went into effect the following year, thus beginning the thirteen-year drought known euphemistically as the Noble Experiment.

As Americans strived to escape the chaos of the city for the calm of the suburbs, our drinking habits changed. Without the convenience of

Prohibition largely failed at its main objective of drying out the na-

the corner tavern or neighborhood pub, we saw the rise of the home bar-

tion. It gave a mammoth boost to organized crime and made criminals

tender and an explosion of gear catering toward that emerging market.

out of ordinary citizens. Whereas Prohibition was a monolithic, com-

Whereas cocktail manuals from before Prohibition were sparse guide-

plete effort that was national in scope, repeal was the opposite: piece-

books for working professionals, those that emerged afterward were

meal, fractional, and hyperlocalized in scope. The Twenty-first Amend-

lush with detailed descriptions and images. Ted Saucier’s Bottoms Up

ment threw the decision to the states, many of which in turn passed

(1951) featured pinup gals from the brushes of America’s top commer-

the responsibility on to counties, cities, and even justice-of-the-peace

cial illustrators; Esquire magazine’s Handbook for Hosts (1949) offered

precincts—hence the incredible patchwork quilt of liquor regulations

not just an elaborate selection of cocktail recipes but also meat-carving

that result in different degrees of “wet” virtually every place you go. The

tips, jokes, toasts, and rules for canasta and bridge. •••

entire state of Mississippi was bone dry until 1966. Many readers will remember when you couldn’t buy liquor by the drink in Texas, and as

The landscape for beverages remained bleak throughout the 1970s

of 2012 the denizens of Tyler still have to leave the city limits to buy a

and ’80s, but during this time, the foundation was being laid for what

bottle—one of the many lingering effects of Prohibition.

ultimately would result in the cocktail and spirit renaissance whose

The middle decades of the twentieth century were for the most part

throes we currently occupy. What is good for the kitchen is good

an unfortunate time for American cocktail mixology, the profession

for the bar, and so the work of natural foods pioneers such as Alice

emerging from Prohibition in a state one might predict it would be in,

Waters helped create the space in which artisanal beverage produc-

having been forced underground, unable to evolve for over a decade.

ers would later flourish. In the late 1980s and 1990s, a few American

We went from exporting our ideas and traditions about cocktails to ex-

bartenders, notably New York’s Dale DeGroff, started to excavate tra-

porting the very talent, as professional barmen sought wetter pastures

ditional recipes and techniques that had largely disappeared from

abroad. Others left the business entirely, or continued to practice the

the mainstream culture.

craft in illegal speakeasies, working with whatever ingredients they could get hold of.

The cocktail has once again regained a distinguished place in the American culinary conversation. The esteemed James Beard Founda-

One exception to the general malaise of mid-century mixology was

tion now confers its honors upon top talents not just in the kitchen but

the tiki movement. Tiki was a glorious pastiche of tropical and Asian

also behind the bar. And it is now difficult to find a new chef driven

design aesthetics conjured by Hollywood, pioneered by such colorful

restaurant of any worth that has not given serious consideration to its

characters as Don the Beachcomber and “Trader Vic” Bergeron. The

cocktail menu.

tiki bars offered a cuisine of cocktails based on tropical flavors, but

If the narrative of American cocktails and spirits has mostly been

built in a classical fashion with balance and complexity in mind, and

told from a coastal perspective, Texas is finally getting its due. Cock-

practitioners of the art were massively successful. In the 1930s, the

tails and cocktail culture have traveled inward from such markets as

early tiki bars and restaurants offered a Technicolor culinary fanta-

San Francisco, Portland, and New York to such cities as Austin and San

sia against the black-and-white backdrop of the recent Depression; a

Antonio; in the next wave we will see these people and concepts expand

decade later, they offered solace to the souls of weary soldiers and

outward from urban cores to the suburbs. Two of my favorite cocktail

provided an escape to citizens.

dens that have opened in recent years are Whiskey Cake (Plano) and

With countless soldiers returning from the Pacific theater, and with the popularization of Hawaiian tourism (and eventual statehood), an

400 Rabbits (Circle C, Austin); both operate not in hip, restored warehouse districts but in suburban strip malls. EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM



Flor de Piña Makes 1 drink 1½ oz. 100% agave silver tequila ¾ oz. St. Germain elderflower liqueur 1 oz. pineapple juice ½ oz. freshly squeezed lime juice ½ oz. Canela Syrup Pineapple wedge, for garnish

Combine the tequila, elderflower liqueur, pineapple juice, lime juice, and canela syrup in a mixing glass and shake vigorously with ice to chill. Strain into a tiki mug filled with crushed ice. Garnish with the pineapple wedge.

Sazerac Makes 1 drink 2 oz. 100-proof rye whiskey or Cognac ¼–½ oz. Simple Syrup, or 1 or 2 sugar cubes 6 dashes of Peychaud’s Bitters Herbsaint or absinthe

VIDEO: History of the Sazerac + recipe demonstration by David Alan at

Lemon “coin,” for garnish

Combine the whiskey, simple syrup, and bitters in a mixing glass with ice. (If using sugar cubes, muddle the sugar and bitters and the smallest amount of water if necessary to create a syrup, then add the whiskey.) Stir to chill, and adjust the syrup to taste. Rinse an Old Fashioned glass with the Herbsaint and discard the Herbsaint. Strain the cocktail into the absinthe-rinsed glass. Flame the lemon “coin” over the glass and discard.

Hot Summer Night Makes 1 drink ¾ oz. Honey Syrup (recipe follows) 2 sprigs fresh thyme ¾ oz. freshly squeezed lemon juice 1½ oz. Tito’s Handmade Vodka ½ oz. Paula’s Texas Lemon (or limoncello if you are outside Texas) 1 oz. natural lemon or lemon-lime soda Lemon wheel, for garnish

Combine the honey syrup, one thyme sprig, and the lemon juice, vodka, and Paula’s Texas Lemon in a mixing glass and shake vigorously with ice to chill. Fine-strain into a Collins glass with fresh ice. Top with the lemon soda and garnish with the second thyme sprig and the lemon wheel.

HONEY SYRUP Honey is a fabulous cocktail ingredient and dates to ancient times as a sweetener for beverages. Unfortunately, you can’t use honey as-is, straight out of the jar, as ice and honey don’t mix. Instead, make a syrup of equal parts hot water and honey. It will not only pour more easily than straight honey, it will also dissolve more readily into your cocktail. Store it covered in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks. 82



Showgirl Makes 1 drink 1½ oz. vodka ¼ oz. passion fruit syrup or puree (if using puree, the sweetness may need to be adjusted) ½ oz. Orgeat (recipe follows) ½ oz. freshly squeezed lime juice 1 barspoon St. Elizabeth Allspice Dram 2 dashes of Bitter Truth Jerry Thomas’s Own Decanter Bitters Several sprigs fresh seasonal herbs and citrus zest, for garnish

Combine all the ingredients, except the herbs, in a mixing glass and shake vigorously with ice to chill. Strain into a highball glass or tiki mug filled with crushed ice, and garnish with a “headdress” of herbs and citrus zest—mint, basil, lemon verbena, lavender, kaffir lime, edible flowers—whatever you have on hand. Give this beauty what she deserves.

SPECIAL EDIBLE EVENTS with david alan Sipping Social, Friday, June 21 Visit David Alan for a book signing and tastings in our Cocktail Lounge at Edible Austin’s signature Sipping Social event at Vuka, 7 – 10 p.m.

BookPeople, Wednesday, July 31 Edible Austin presents David Alan talking about his new book, Tipsy Texan featuring special guests and tastings from the book. 7 p.m.

Wine Enthusiast RATINGS



TitosEdibleAd0413.indd 1


SUMMER4/30/13 2013 5:36 PM 83

Behind the Vines

Hilmy Cellars By Terry Thompson-Anderson • PHotography By Sandy Wilson


ew wineries continue

from some fruit juice in the

to open on Wine Road

family refrigerator. He asked



his father what would happen if

Johnson City through Freder-

he put some yeast in the juice,

icksburg. The trail currently

and he’s been experimenting

has 14 tasting rooms, and has

with fruit and yeast since that

become an increasingly pop-


ular and colorful destination

both of his parents, who wel-

for wine lovers from around

comed the various bottles and

the state and beyond because

jars of fermenting concoctions

of the diversity of wine vari-

that were part of Erik’s evolu-

eties and winemaking styles,

tion as a winemaker.



production-facility designs and

The Hilmys purchased the

the mélange of proprietor per-

winery property in 2006, and

sonalities and backgrounds.

planted the first three-acre

The pioneers of the Texas

block of sangiovese clone vines

wine industry were, for the

in 2009. The second planting of

most part, older, well-educated


individuals who were retiring

acres was put in the following

from other occupations. Hav-

year, and consisted of an ex-

ing built sizable nest eggs over

perimental block of tempra-

the years, they financed their

nillo, petit verdot and tannat.

wineries in response to a life-

The couple eagerly awaits the

long love of wine, and the op-

results of these distinct blocks

portunity for entrepreneurship.

as they unfold. Ninety to nine-

Recently, though, there’s been

ty-five percent of the fruit for

an influx of the younger set

their current wines came from

establishing wineries strictly

the Texas High Plains region,

from an intense love of the craft,

with the rest originating in the


Hill Country.

its history and its product. Such is the case with Erik and Neldie Hilmy, who opened Hilmy

The winery project had been in the forefront of Erik’s mind for

Cellars between Stonewall and Fredericksburg in 2012. Erik, who was

most of his adult life. He and Neldie had known each other for years

born in Tarrytown, New York, but raised in Mission, Texas, is an

before they married in 2010, so Neldie entered the winery project

immensely interesting, free-spirited guy—characteristics that come

head-on as a new bride, although she still worked for a medical-tech-

into play in his winemaking style. He describes his background as

nology firm as a member of their cardiovascular research team.

“a bartender two different times, a bum, a pastry chef after I took

Though she grew up in Texas—spending weekends at her grandpar-

a few courses at Le Cordon Bleu culinary academy and an attempt

ents’ ranch in Rio Hondo, near Harlingen—Neldie’s job has taken her

to become a real-estate developer.” But nothing seemed to be a fit

all over the country and to South America. Her position involved

to his inner callings, and he abhorred the business practices in the

calling on cardiologists, one of whom happened to be Erik’s father,

real-estate field. “I really think that Erik was a winemaker in a former

who insisted she meet his son. When the couple married, Neldie knew the depth of Erik’s pas-

life,” says Neldie. Erik made his first batch of wine when he was eight years old 84



sion for making wine. Hoping to avoid regret, they decided to pursue

this dream and undertook the winery project.

Erik. In the beginning, he was intimidated by the

Erik and a few workers did much of the work on

thought of the project, and thought it impossible

the winery, including the framing of the original

if one didn’t inherit vineyards from a long line of

tasting room and production facility. (They re-

winemakers, as happens in Europe and Califor-

cently added a new, separate production facility

nia. However, he finally came to a different real-

and turned the original space into a barrel-stor-

ization, and now calls winemaking “the essence

age facility.) While Erik busied himself produc-

of simplicity.” He found that he could research

ing the wines to open the winery, Neldie continued to work, and

and learn just about anything he needed to know, and the rest he

details like business cards, letterhead, logos and marketing efforts

could learn by looking at what the rest of the Texas industry was do-

weren’t given priority. As Neldie found herself torn between balanc-

ing right, or had done wrong. He credits High Plains winemaker Kim

ing her job responsibilities and helping with marketing efforts and

McPherson as being an important and generous mentor.

management for the new winery, she took a year’s leave of absence

The Hilmys believe that much of what they’re doing is a discov-

from her job in November of 2012, to establish a firm business foun-

ery. “We can try to match varietals with Spain and Argentina, but in

dation for the winery. Erik also credits Neldie with having a very

the end, it’s solely about the terroir here in our vineyard,” says Neld-

keen palate, and although she has no formal training, her ability to

ie. Erik believes that the three greatest challenges to the Texas wine

evaluate the structure of wines has proven a valuable asset.

industry are those of temperature, ego and pricing. “Match the grape

Neldie’s ranch background was also important in the establish-

with the climate and work with Mother Nature,” he says. “Don’t try

ment of the winery in its rural Hill Country location. Since Erik

to plant something that’s not meant to grow here.” When it comes

wanted to avoid pesticides in the vineyard, Neldie suggested that

to ego, he thinks that wineries should work with the grapes that do

they start a flock of guinea hens. The hens range freely among the

best in Texas, not the grapes that they personally like the best. But

vines, devouring the insects that could harm them. Then she sug-

the third challenge of pricing is a prickly one.

gested dogs—big dogs. The pair acquired two Great Pyrenees—gen-

Because most people travel to wineries to be entertained, the

erally used to protect livestock—to keep the prevalent deer at bay

price of the entertainment is generally built into the price of the

without the need for expensive deer-proof fencing. Finally, Neldie

wine. Erik didn’t want to charge a tasting fee at his tasting room,

added a few goats to keep the weeds down.

but knew if they didn’t, they would be overrun with “tasters” and be-

Establishing a winery has always had an element of romance for

come known as the place that served free wine. Thus, their tasting EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM



fee is waived with the purchase of a bottle of wine. Erik’s opinion is that wineries that charge more than a wine is worth are doing a disservice to the industry. His goal is to be able to put a $20 bottle of wine up against a $20 bottle of California or Washington or European wine and have it be on par or above. He doesn’t want his wines to be perceived as being overpriced simply because they’re Hill Country wines.

1213 West Lynn | 512.477.5211 |

Noteworthy Vintages 2010 Politics and Religion: This unusual red blend of merlot and Mourvèdre is a gorgeous garnet-hued wine of medium intensity. On the nose there are layers of Christmas spice—mainly mace and nutmeg—with caramel and vanilla. Perhaps a slight nuance of Tellicherry black peppercorns. On the palate, the wine is fleshy and substantial, but not fat. There’s good play between the acid, the sweetness of the alcohol and the tannins. This is not a gritty sandpaper-like wine by any means, but it has enough grip to be pleasant with food. The fruit on the nose becomes noteworthy in the mouth; lots of subtle raspberry and strong cherry notes, with the raspberry being more of a flowery framboise eau-de-vie-style than fresh, ripe fruit. This is a wine for contemplation and conversation that will age well for up to 10 years.

2012 Rosé of Tempranillo: A first impression is that this wine is dark for rosé. Bottled in March 2013, the wine is showing its youthful and vibrant blue range of colors. This rosé is no Whispering Angel, but rather a rosé of a totally different and delightful style unto itself. The nose is redolent of fruit that’s a bit hard to pin down—perhaps cherry, which is a characteristic of Hilmy reds. There are notes of pomegranate and persimmon, and a hint of passion fruit. There’s also a big hit of bubble gum and, at 14 percent, a lot of alcohol. But when chilled (as a wine like this should be) the alcohol is less forward. The tempranillo provenance lends a certain garrigue, or soft-leaved scrubland nuance characteristic of the Mediterranean region’s limestone soil. There’s also some hefty leather and a bit of spice. In the mouth, the wine is filling and subtly sweet. This is a wine that will pair well with spicy fare and is excellent for summer drinking.

eat well. 11th & lamar 512-482-8868

2011 Muscat Canelli: The fruit for this vintage came from the Young Family Vineyards in the Texas High Plains. Pale straw in color, the wine has a generous and aromatic nose. The bouquet is big and expansive in the glass. There’s a definite aroma of citrus, especially grapefruit, very reminiscent of Texas’s Rio Star grapefruit. There’s a bit of floral, with some hints of lychee and a note of diesel or petrol. On the palate, the wine is definitely sweet, although not annoyingly nor cloyingly so. There’s a great balance between acid and sweetness, which makes the alcohol barely perceptible. The wine robes the tongue and then goes away. It would play well with Asian foods and is an excellent wine for drinking now. Hilmy Cellars 12346 E. U.S. Hwy. 290, Fredericksburg 86




Edible gardens

Outdoor Pharmacy by Laura McKissack


ong before modern chemistry, man relied on plants to heal,

properties and are known for their anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial

protect and manipulate the body. Many medicinal herbs grow

and anticancer properties. The most pungent of these is garlic, and

very well in Central Texas, and a medicine garden can be just as

according to Engels, the more pungent the allium, the stronger the

pleasing and useful as a kitchen garden. To get the inside scoop on cre-

medicine. “Garlic is also antithrombotic, antimicrobial, lipid lowering,

ating one, I recently visited Gayle Engels, the special projects director

antihypertensive, antiallergenic, antioxidant and can help regulate the

at the American Botanical Council (ABC), who offered her wisdom

immune system.” Tasty culinary-medicinal herbs such as oregano and

and a tour of ABC’s wonderful garden on Manor Road.

garlic can be added to food, of course. Engels suggests adding them

The medicinal gardens on the grounds of ABC are arranged by the

at the end of the cooking process to preserve the plants’ medicinal

action they take in the body. For example, there’s a bed containing

properties as well as the flavor. And parsley, she notes, is an excellent

herbs that aid in digestion, another with herbs that relieve respiratory

digestive aid as well as a superfood. Engels suggests a daily dose of

ailments and one with herbs for skin care. On the other side of the

it, along with fresh garlic, in your morning smoothie. “If your friends

property are the culinary gardens, arranged by regional cuisine, such

don’t like the smell of garlic on your breath, then they’re not really

as Mediterranean, Asian and Mexican. But many herbs fall into both

your friends,” she says with a laugh.

medicinal and culinary categories. Cayenne, for example, grows in the

There are many ways to use medicinal herbs in addition to cooking

Mexican culinary garden, but as Engels points out, the plant also has

with them. Skin-healing herbs like calendula can be applied directly to

many healing qualities. “The topical use of capsaicin preparations can

the skin or made into a poultice by crushing with a little water. Yarrow

relieve acute and chronic postherpetic pain, diabetic neuropathy, pso-

acts as a styptic (stops bleeding), and the leaves make a perfect little

riasis and osteoarthritis,” she says. “Internal use of cayenne or cayenne

Band-Aid applied as a poultice or simply wrapped around the finger.

preparations can help prevent peptic ulcers and protect the GI tract

And herbal infusions can be quite powerful, too. Mullein, for example,

against cancer. Additionally, cayenne may lower triglyceride levels and

can be made into a tea and has been used to treat respiratory ailments

platelet aggregation, improve circulation and protect against elevated

for centuries. It grows like a weed in Central Texas.

metabolic rate.” It can also be used in nasal sprays to relieve allergies,

When asked for the top five recommended herbs for the home me-

but don’t attempt to make those at home. For topical use or use as a

dicinal garden, Engels suggests lemon balm, for its antiviral and anti-

nasal spray, find a product containing capsaicin—don’t just rub the

anxiety properties; peppermint or milder spearmint for their cooling

peppers on your skin or inhale them.

and antispasmodic (think upset tummy) properties; calendula for its

Included in the ABC medicinal garden is a goji berry tree, which

beauty and skin healing properties; aloe vera for use in burn relief and

has purported anticancer properties. There’s also a variety of mints,

skin healing; and holy basil for its adaptogenic, antibacterial, antisep-

which cool the body, lift the spirits and soothe stomach issues, as well

tic, fever-reducing, antispasmodic, gas-relieving, expectorant, nervine

as lemon verbena and lemon balm, which can be used in children’s

and stimulant properties.

bathwater to help them sleep at night or as a soothing spritzer when

American Botanical Council

steeped with antique rose petals and chilled. Nearby are alliums—on-

6200 Manor Rd.

ions, garlic, leeks, chives and shallots—that possess powerful healing

Aloe vera





department of organic YOUTH

Baking Smiles by Fiona Parkes • PHotography by Jote Khalsa


love spending time in the kitchen.

you’re done, you have several batches

If I’m not working on homework

to taste and share! At that point, there

or outside playing, you’ll probably

was no turning back. I’d fallen com-

find me there. While I like cooking all

pletely in love with baking and was

kinds of things, truly my favorite thing

hooked for life.

to do is to bake. Baking is a great skill

Of course, sometimes you need

to have. The feeling of accomplishment

a little bit of motivation for baking—

is pretty swell, and there is nothing like

trust me, I get it. So my cousin and I

a good baking spree. I also get a defi-

frequently video chat with each other

nite sense of satisfaction when I finish

to exchange recipes and give feedback

a recipe that I have never made before.

on the recipes that we’ve already made.

Another reason I love to bake is

When you need some extra motivation,

because I can alter recipes and make

talk to one of your fellow bakers and

them my own by substituting ingre-

you might find yourself inspired.

dients with different ones that I think

Baking isn’t just about the sense of

will fit better. For example, one of the

accomplishment and how the cookies

recipes that I frequently make is Triple

taste, though. There is also the feel-

Chocolate Cookies, and I’ve made it my

ing of delight in making people happy.

own by including a touch of pepper-

There is nothing like seeing someone

mint extract to add a layer to the depth

smile when they taste what you’ve

of flavor.

made for them. Count the times you

I first got into baking because I love

have smiled because of a cookie…go

cooking and baking with my mom. She

ahead, count. That feeling sticks with you and makes you want to bake more.

is a skilled chef and baker and introduced me to baking when I was very young. But I didn’t really fall in

love with it until I was able to do a lot of the recipe prep on my own.

Fiona Parkes lives in far south Austin. She loves cooking, baking,

About a year ago, though, my cousin showed me “baking sprees,”

stitching, singing and playing her guitar. She hopes to one day live

where you make several recipes in one baking session, and when

on a farm with many animals and grow her own food for cooking.

Triple Chocolate Peppermint Cookies Makes 18 to 20 large cookies 2¼ c. unbleached all-purpose flour 1 t. baking soda 1 t. salt 1 c. room temperature butter 1 c. packed brown sugar ½ c. sugar 2 eggs 1 t. vanilla extract 2 t. peppermint extract ½ c. cocoa powder 1 c. white chocolate chips ¾ c. bittersweet chocolate chips 88


Preheat the oven to 350° and line a baking sheet with parchment paper. In a medium bowl, mix together the flour, baking soda and salt and set it aside. In another large bowl, beat the butter and both sugars until creamy. Add the eggs to the butter and sugar mixture, one at a time, thoroughly mixing before adding the next. Add the vanilla and peppermint, then beat in the cocoa powder until combined. Add the dry ingredients and stir until you have nice and thick dough. Mix in the chocolate chips—making sure that the chips are spread evenly through all of the dough. Use a ¼-cup measuring cup or an ice cream scoop to drop cookies about 1 inch apart on the baking sheet and bake for about 14 to 16 minutes. Let them cool for around 2 minutes then transfer the cookies to a cooling rack and let them cool completely before eating.


WE KNOW WHAT YOU WANT Austin-style pizza with a thin crust, local veggies, and homemade sauces.

14 01 B ROSEWOOD AVE. 7870 2

MENU 5 31 2 A IRPORT BLVD. S TE G 78751

4 67 8 9 0 0 18 0 9 -1 W. ANDERSON LN. 78757

Your Baking Headquarters Tools & Supplies

for making cakes, cookies and candies

Decorating Classes

beginner to advanced New Location! 9070 Research Blvd. (512) 371-3401 EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM



Green Corn Project

Good Stewards

Old-school baking with a twist! Meet us at @ SFC Farmers’ Market Downtown and Sunset Valley

Booming Granny Apple Pie Cookies Tito’s a Big Hunk Peanut Butter Marshmallows Toots MaGhoots Key Lime Pie Gramma Rosie’s Chocolate Chip Cookies Sex In a Bowl AND SO MUCH MORE!

512-417-9847 • • follow us @pmstreats

by David Huebel


drianne Hogan had tried gardening before. Her first attempt involved her husband jackhammering limestone on a lot ad-

jacent to her home near Oak Hill. “Between our hot, dry summer of 2011, the distance between our house and garden and my lack of experience in growing vegetables, the garden was not very successful,” says Hogan. She desperately wanted to continue gardening, but with three children and a return to school it seemed impossible. “I couldn’t seem to fit it into my schedule,” she says. Then one day, while doing research for school, Hogan discovered Green Corn Project (GCP) and thought it might be a great opportunity to give gardening another chance. She applied for a garden, and a team of volunteers came to her home in early April and installed a four-by-twelve-foot garden bed. Making use of existing soil along the south edge of her house, the team was able to double dig the bed without the use of power tools. “One of the primary reasons I want a garden,” Hogan says, “is to help my children understand their role as stewards of the environment and to take control of some of their own sustenance.” Hogan notes that her 12-year-old son, who was busy getting ready for a guitar recital while the garden was being installed, got into a bug discussion with one of the volunteers, who was very knowledgeable about insects. “I was thrilled to see him not only in the garden, but engaged in a discussion and actually smiling,” she says. The two also discussed building bee boxes—not for the honey, but to encourage pollinators in the garden. Because Hogan is vision impaired, her son’s help with insect identification will be especially important. After the first unsuccessful attempt at a garden, Hogan has now achieved her dream. “I found the structure provided by Green Corn Project invigorating,” she says. “They helped me narrow the scope of my garden to something I can manage as I’m learning, and they’re now a source of expertise to help me through any problems

Richardson Farms

that might come up.” And by working with experienced gardeners, Hogan has learned firsthand tips that can’t easily be found by reading books. “I was overly gentle in handling plants, and I was afraid to disturb the soil around plants,” she says, giving an example. “But now I know how to cultivate to remove weeds and work compost into the soil.” With a more manageable garden and readily available expertise

Grass Fed Beef, Pastured Pork, Poultry, & Eggs 90




from Green Corn Project, this time around Hogan’s garden has a better chance of success, and her children will come to understand the importance of taking care of the environment. For more information on workshops and volunteer opportunities, or to apply for a garden, visit

Sustainable Food Center

space will also be used to provide training and technical assistance to our Farm to Work and Farm to Cafeteria coordinators, as well as bolstering SFC Farmers’ Market activity.

COming Home

The Happy Kitchen/La Cocina Alegre will provide workshops and classes on-site. We project huge growth for this innovative hands-on cooking and nutrition program as we hold back-to-back classes in our new commercial kitchen. In addition, we’ll be able to train more facil-

by Ronda Rutledge

itators who, in turn, will deliver more classes at community centers, churches, clinics and schools throughout Central Texas. In other locations and communities outside Austin in need of pro-


grams like SFC’s, we’ll offer our second program-replication training

zation has undertaken in our four-decade history. And while we continue

with the specific service offerings that might be missing in their areas.

or too many years, we’ve been Sustainable Food Center (SFC) without a center. This summer, that will finally change. Our training facility

and adjacent 2.3-acre food garden make up the largest venture this organito explore how our center can best be used to have the largest impact on our food community, we welcome all of the challenges and successes to come as we move into this new space. The new center will serve as a bustling urban agriculture hub, where groups and individuals will learn experientially how to cultivate food in their backyards, schools and neighborhoods. While SFC has helped start many of the community gardens in Austin, we’ve not had our own home base. Given existing demand for projects such as Citizen Gardener and Spread the Harvest, we foresee a 50 percent increase in Grow Local participation by 2015. A primary purpose of our Farm Direct projects is connecting farmers with consumers. The new building will provide a central space for

this summer to help others address the needs of their particular regions The new SFC is centrally located in East Austin, immediately adjacent to the Capital MetroRail MLK, Jr. Station. A connected hike-andbike trail is planned next to the MLK, Jr. Station, providing further access to our center and community garden. Our Austin Energy Green Building is constructed of materials extracted or manufactured regionally and contains recycled content. In our capital campaign, we included a two-year reserve fund for the facility’s costs and an operating reserve for board-designated emergencies. These funds will provide additional financial stability for SFC through the transition to the new building and in future years. We couldn’t have come this far without you, our Central Texas family and friends, who share our belief that this mission isn’t optional; it’s crucial.

conducting farmer and chef trainings and exchanges, thus increasing

For more information on Sustainable Food Center, visit

the connection between institutional food buyers and farmers. The




30 locations in Central Texas




Homemade Root beer by Kate Payne • Photography by Jo Ann Santangelo


grew up in the Southwest, and as much as I thought I wasn’t a

upon being told they could no longer use filé (fee-lay), the sassa-

creature of my surroundings, having lived in the suburbs of Phoe-

fras-leaf-based thickener often used in gumbo. Eventually, Louisiana

nix, I still find myself drawn to the more redeeming qualities of

got to keep their precious filé since there’s hardly any of the contro-

life in the desert. I treasure my early exposure to things wild—the

versial safrole in the leaf, but sassafras root was otherwise relegated

idea of outlaws, a prodigious expanse of sky, eccentric desert flora,

to the realm of herbalists who sell nonfoods. The history of sassafras root use in the U.S. stems from Native

craggy mountain—all of which resemble each other in some way or another as storied, solitary, impervious and self-sufficient.

American tribal groups, spanning the Northeast to the Deep South

I remember childhood car trips to various Arizona old-town throw-

regions, who used it in beverages and as a seasoning and thicken-

backs, like Tombstone and Wickenburg, and visits across town to an

er for foods. A tea made from sassafras root bark was considered

otherwise high-end Scottsdale area called Old Town. These touristy

a blood purifier and thus used as spring blood tonic, and the root

magnets all featured some configuration of saloon-looking establish-

was also believed to treat rheumatism and arthritic pain. Herbalists

ments, a smattering of Native American crafts, Western wear and, of

today advise against consuming sassafras root infusions very often

course, the ubiquitous old-fashioned ice cream and soda counter.

or for extended periods of time (longer than 4 to 6 weeks), or at all

Even in the midst of these festive environs, I never came close to tast-

if pregnant or breast-feeding.

ing a true, old-fashioned root beer made from sassafras root bark. And

Sassafrass trees grow wild in Central Texas, and we Austinites

today, root beer sodas are nothing more than an inelegant mingling of

can dig up fresh roots (from invasive saplings, not from large trees)

artificial flavors and sometimes colors that have, literally, lost their roots.

like our East Coast and mid- to Deep South friends who are up to

The root bark and leaves of the sassafras tree were banned by the

their ears in fresh sassafras root. In addition, both dried sassafras

FDA in 1960 after scientists extracted safrole—the oil found in the

root bark and sarsaparilla root (used in the recipe below) can be

root at a level of 1 to 2 percent—and injected it into rats in doses of

purchased locally at herbal shops and online.

5 to 100 times the amount we’d ever consume. Unsurprisingly, the

Now make some homemade root beer! Just promise you won’t

rats got liver cancer. And Louisiana nearly seceded from the Union

drink three glasses of it a day for more than four weeks in a row, okay?

Traditional Root Beer Makes about 2 quarts 1

/8 c. dried sassafras root bark 8 t. dried sarsaparilla root 2 t. dried burdock or dandelion root 3-in. piece of vanilla bean, split lengthwise (optional) 8 c. water, divided 1 c. sugar Pinch ale yeast or active dry yeast 2 T. warm water

Add the roots, vanilla bean (if using) and 4 cups of the water to a pot. Bring to a boil, uncovered, then reduce the heat to a simmer for 15 minutes. Strain out the roots and add the sugar to the hot liquid. Pour half of the concentrate into a 1-quart SodaStream bottle (or another plastic bottle) and the other half into a swing-top bottle or Mason jar. Pour 2 cups of cold water into each bottle. Dissolve the yeast in the warm water (no hotter than 110°) and split that mixture between the bottles. Cap the bottles tightly and let them sit at room temperature. Check the carbonation level at 48 hours by squeezing the plastic bottle (the bottle should be completely hard and the contents fizzy when opened). Place the bottles in the refrigerator for up to 4 weeks.




La Casita de Buen Sabor

Cantina LA Lucinda


y affinity for tequila

melodic to the mouth as a maria-

seems to be a natural

chi tune is to the ear—bold, spicy

one, a legacy from grow-

and full of life! Upon the first taste,

ing up in the border town of El

it gives a liquid jolt to the sens-

Paso. In the late 1960s, our coming-

es that makes our tongues trill,

of-age initiations included esca-

trumpets resound in our ears and

pades to rowdy Juárez cantinas on

throatily bellows of “ay-ay-ay!”

Saturday nights. Looking back, we

fill the air. Tequila makes macho

were young and life was an uncom-

men burst into passionate lyrics

plicated fiesta. While my compan-

of unrequited love and shy women

ions guzzled Singapore Slings and

dance with abandon. How could I


not have my own tequila cantina?


promising speedy inebriation and

Nestled behind the detached

horrific hangovers—I slipped into

garage of my bright purple 1930s

the kitchen of our favorite canti-

“Texican” bungalow in Austin is

na, where Tío Mauro Orozco, the

my Cantina La Lucinda. Painted

uncle of my family’s housekeep-

screaming turquoise, it’s like a

er, was the cook. He’d pour me a

barrio (neighborhood) cantina on

shot of tequila reposado, and with

a dusty road south of the border. I

ranchera music blaring on the ra-

built a traditional Texas split-cedar

dio to the rhythmic patting of torti-

ramada (porch-like structure) for

llas, I learned how to cook and how

shade, instead of one roofed with

to sip tequila.

palm fronds frequently found in

Mexico’s comida y canciones

Mexico. The cantina holds a rustic

(cuisine and songs) and the gen-

bar table for serving punches and

erous spirit of her inhabitants filled my heart. Often, I felt more at home in that country than in my

(Top): Lucinda’s Cantina, Austin. (Bottom): Tequila bottles bordering garden beds beside cantina.

tequila drinks, and a saloon cabinet that stores bottles of tequila and mezcal for parties. A large,

own. Speaking Spanish fluently (which gave me an insider’s perspective

rusted metal sculpture of an agave perches atop the ramada, and like

of Mexican culture and traditions) and longing for adventure, I had no

in cantinas in Mexico, a calendar hangs on the wall to mark off each

fear of riding buses to visit small tequila towns, the only güera (fair-

blessed day. Nearby, a small statue of the Virgen de Guadalupe gives

skinned female) aboard.


Throughout tequila’s heartland, I visited fields planted with endless

To the side of the cantina, a handcrafted wrought-iron bottle tree

rows of blue agaves—formidable plants with a profusion of swordlike

“grows” upside-down bottles of tequila from its branches—“fallen sol-

blades exploding from a central core. I learned that these noble agaves

diers,” a friend calls them—instead of the blue bottles found on most

take nearly a decade to reach maturity for harvesting. In rustic and

bottle trees placed to scare away evil spirits. Many Mexicans seem to

modern distilleries alike, I watched the agave’s magical transformation

have an innate ability to turn found objects into art, like the sculpture

into tequila, the true spirit of Mexico. I tasted shimmering silver tequi-

of a trio of huarache-shod mariachis that greets guests to my canti-

las straight from copper pot stills and amber-hued ones from fine oak

na—each with a distinct personality (one has exchanged his musical

casks. I dined in distillers’ fine haciendas and with humble field work-

instrument for a bottle of tequila). Resourceful Mexican craftsmen fash-

ers, where often that precious bottle of tequila or mezcal was poured for

ioned them, with incredible attention to detail, from rusty oil drums

a toast to la vida buena (the good life).

and found objects.

Tequila is indeed my soul mate; Mexico in a bottle. Its flavor is as 94



My cantina has some recycled items, too. Dumpster diving has af-

Photography by John Pozdro as appears in ¡Viva Tequila!

by Lucinda Hutson

forded me plenty of empty tequila bottles with which to line the cantina’s garden beds, mulched with wine corks salvaged from local establishments or brought to me by friends. Previously used oak whisky

Locally owned wine shop offering affordable wines for home, special events or to enjoy on our patio!

barrels double as my cocktail tables when upside down or serve as planters filled with small palms. Horseshoes collected at the local Mexican pulga (flea market) now line the peak above the cantina. But perhaps my favorite embellishments are the big copper pot once used for collecting mezcal that I got in Oaxaca and the blue agaves that I grow in big pots started from “pups” I brought back from Mexico. A picnic table and its benches covered with cheerful Mexican oilcloth—brightly patterned fabric covered in a vinyl laminate that’s used throughout Mexico as tablecloths—await my cantina’s patrons, and there’s a whimsical tin outdoor shower, just in case a merry reveler gets

1209 Rosewood Avenue, Austin, TX 78702 512-904-9056 |

out of hand! (It’s actually used after gardening.) The image of cantina that I choose is about ambiance. You may only have a small space, perhaps just a liquor cabinet, in your home to devote to a bar, but it’s the hospitality and spirit of entertaining with which you welcome guests that gives them that celebratory and unforgettable cantina experience. I’ve distilled the essence of Mexico into my home





cantina—its flavors and character, its spirit and soul. May you be inspired to do the same—create a warm and inviting atmosphere for the celebration of agave spirits and amistad (friendship). And don’t forget, Mexican hosts typically honor each guest with the raising of a glass and a gracious “¡Salud!” or a dicho (proverbial toast) to personally ac-

At BAC, all of us share a passion for food that is evident in our commitment to serving the highest quality cuisine while also giving back to the community using organic, locally grown products whenever possible, and implementing sustainable practices such composting, recycling and gardening.

knowledge their visit. And remember: Tequila es para saborear, no para emborrachar (Tequila is for savoring, not for inebriating). ••• Lucinda Hutson’s first book, Tequila: Cooking with the Spirit of Mexico (Ten Speed Press), was published in 1995, way ahead of the tequila craze. The new book, ¡Viva Tequila¡! Cocktails, Cooking, and Other Agave Adventures, was just released in May by University of Texas Press. The three-in-one compilation is a natural history, a cookbook, a





bar book and filled with everything you want to know about agave spirits. Peppered with personal anecdotes and illustrated with documentary photographs and folk art from Hutson’s collections, ¡Viva Tequila! celebrates traditional Mexican libations and homemade concoctions used to highlight the flavor of tequila, such as: tequilas curados (tequi-

Steakhouse - Café Galleria 13500 Galleria Circle 512.441.9000

East Side - Café Este 1201 East 6th Street 512.382.1189

las “cured” or infused with fresh fruits, herbs or chiles); flavored salts,

Catering & Events 512.994.0662

like hibiscus flower and orange zest salt, for rimming and adding zip to

w w w. B U E N O S A I R E S C A F E . C O M

drinks,; flavored syrups like jarabe tinto (ruby pomegranate syrup) and luscious liqueurs to end the evening. You’ll also find festive recipes— from appetizers to desserts—to enliven your next fiesta. LOCAL PRODUCTS


SPECIAL EDIBLE EVENTS BookPeople, Friday, June 7 Edible Austin presents Lucinda Hutson talking about her new book ¡Viva Tequila! featuring sights, sounds and tastings from the book. 7 p.m.






Sipping Social, Friday, June 21 Visit Lucinda Hutson for a book signing and tastings in the Tequila Cantina at Edible Austin’s signature Sipping Social event at Vuka, 7 – 10 p.m.

Downtown Austin, Texas 3rd & Lavaca • 4th & Nueces 6th & Congress EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM






The Directory ARTISANAL FOODS Antonelli’s Cheese Shop We love cut-to-order artisanal cheese and all that goes with it. Order a picnic platter, take a class, or host a private guided event. Free tastings daily. 512-531-9610; 4220 Duval St.

Broken Arrow Ranch We field harvest truly wild animals for high-quality free-range venison, antelope and wild boar meat. Diamond H Ranch Quail from Bandera also available. 830-367-5875 3296 Junction Hwy., Ingram

Fischer & Wieser Specialty Foods, Inc. From the farm to your family table, we have been creating exciting, delicious, and award-winning gourmet products for over 40 years in Fredericksburg! 830-997-8969 1406 S. US Hwy. 87, Fredericksburg 830-990-8490 315 E. Main St., Fredericksburg 800-369-9257 411 S. Lincoln St., Fredericksburg

Lick Ice Creams Artisan ice creams celebrating the finest ingredients Texas has to offer! Handmade in small batches in our shop, locally sourced and seasonally inspired. 512-363-5622 2032 S. Lamar Blvd.

Lone Star Foodservice Lone Star Foodservice is a family-owned wholesale meat company, whose mission is to source and deliver the finest cuts of natural beef, pork and lamb to tables across Texas. 512-646-6218 1403 E. 6th St.

Noble Pig Sandwiches Local sandwich shop featuring housecured meats, made-from-scratch breads, condiments and pickles. 512-382-6248 11815 620 N., Ste. 4

Texas Olive Ranch Fresh Texas-grown extra virgin olive oil from Carrizo Springs, infused olive oil & balsamic vinegar at farmers markets in Austin, SA, NB, Houston, Dallas. 877-461-4708

Tom’s Tabooley Fresh Mediterranean Cafe since 1977. Vegan to carnivore delights: falafels, gyros, hand-rolled dolmas, beer & wine. Live music. Open 7 days a week. Family friendly. 512-479-7337; 2928 Guadalupe St.

Virginia Cocktail Peanuts Elevating the fabulous Virginia peanut to its rightful place in the pantheon of gourmet foods, VCP offers a catalogue of sweet and savoury selections. 877-872-1957

VOM FASS VOM FASS is the premier specialty retailer of the world’s finest gourmet oils, vinegars, spirits, liqueurs, and wines. 512-637-9545; 3663 Bee Cave Rd.

Bakeries Blue Note Bakery Blue Note Bakery is Austin’s premier custom cake shop, meticulously creating one-of-a-kind desserts for your special occasion. 512-797-7367 4201 S. Congress Ave., Ste. 101

Naegelin’s Bakery Full scale retail & wholesale bakery. 830-625-5722 129 S. Seguin Ave., New Braunfels

Princess & Moose’s Sister Bakery Old school baking with a twist. We use as much local produce as possible. We do small batch baking to keep the intregrity of the product. 512-417-9847

Red Oak Bakery 100% gluten free bakery using local, sustainable and organic ingredients. Handmade and house-made artisanal sweets and savories. 830-214-6911 596 S. Castell Ave., New Braunfels

Beverages 4.0 Cellars 4.0 Cellars is a tasting room and event venue serving the wines of Brennan Vineyards, Lost Oak Winery and McPherson Cellars. 830-997-7470 10354 E. US Hwy. 290

Austin Homebrew Supply

Pedernales Cellars

Since 1991, Austin Homebrew Supply has been helping people craft their own beer, wine and cheese. Come by or visit us online. 512-300-2739 9129 Metric Blvd.

Pedernales Cellars is a family-owned winery in the Texas Hill Country where one can enjoy delectable Spanish style wines and fabulous views. 830-644-2037 2916 Upper Albert Rd., Stonewall

The Austin Wine Merchant

Real Ale Brewing Co.

Locally owned and operated since 1991. Courteous and professional services. Careful selection. Competitive pricing. Gift wrap. Delivery within Austin. 512-499-0512 512 W. 6th St.

Founded in 1996 in Blanco, TX. RABC is a craft brewer of a wide variety of beers and ales. Only sold in Texas. Tasting Room: Fridays 2-5 pm.; Tours: 3 & 4 pm. 830-833-2534 231 San Saba Ct., Blanco


Spec’s Wine Spirits and Finer Foods

This certified organic winery in Mendocino County, California, produces world-class wines, including sauvignon blanc, chardonnay and cabernet sauvignon.

Brooklyn Brewery Leading the world in beers made in Brooklyn. 718-486-7422

Cuvée Coffee Cuvée is a specialty coffee roaster nestled in the TX Hill Country with a coffee bar on E. 7th street. All coffee is directly sourced & roasted to order. 512-264-1479 1912 E. 7th St.

East End Wines Locally owned wine shop offering affordable wines for home, special events, or enjoying on our patio! 512-904-9056 1209 Rosewood Ave.

Hilmy Cellars Vineyards, winery & tasting room. 830-644-2482 12346 E. US Hwy. 290, Fredericksburg

Maine Root Handcrafted Beverages Maine Root makes Fair Trade Certified organically sweetened beverages in bottles and soda fountains. Most places that have Edible Austin have Maine Root! 512-517-3158; 1406 Smith Rd.

Paula’s Texas Spirits Paula’s Texas Orange Liqueur and Paula’s Texas Lemon Liqueur-all natural and handmade in Austin since 2006. Available throughout Texas.

Family-owned since 1962, Spec’s offers expert service and Texas’s largest selection of wines, spirits and beers along with gourmet foods and more! 512-366-8260; 4978 W. US Hwy. 290 512-342-6893; 10515 N. MoPac Hwy. 512-280-7400; 9900 S. I-35 512-263-9981; 13015 Shops Pkwy. 512-366-8300; 5775 Airport Blvd.

Texas Coffee Traders East Austin’s artisanal coffee roaster and one-stop shop offering a wide selection of certified organic and Fair Trade options for wholesale and retail. 512-476-2279; 1400 E. 4th St.

Texas Distilled Spirits Association A trade association of licensed Texas distillers dedicated to raising awareness of Texas spirits and improving local distilling economics. 512-636-6389

Tito’s Handmade Vodka Tito’s Handmade Vodka is handcrafted from 100% corn & distilled 6 times by Tito Beveridge in Austin, TX at America’s Original Microdistillery. Gluten-free! 512-389-9011

Twisted X Brewing Co. Mexican style craft beer made in Texas we call Tex Mex Beer. 512-393-9224 3200 W. Whitestone Blvd. C#1, Cedar Park

Wedding Oak Winery Located in the northern Hill Country, Wedding Oak Winery creates Texas wines from 100% Texas-grown warm weather varietals. Our Texas roots run deep! 325-372-4050 316 E. Wallace, San Saba




edible Marketplace as french bread te x



supporting local food with

handcrafted honeywines


2900 rio grande . 512-499-0544

specialty food & wine shop

Largest selection of Texas Wines in the Hill Country! 13904 Ranch Road 12



Madagascar Black Pepper Gourmet Sea Salts Culinary Herbs and Spices Wholesale and Retail

Private Party Catering!

Bringing nature back to civilization • Locally grown herbs and native plants • Greenhouse, labyrinth, gardens • Classes on herbs, gardening and cooking • Handmade comestibles, gifts 407 Whitney St., Fredericksburg • 830-456-9667 • 830-864-5060




Boggy Creek Farm

Market Days: Wednesday and Saturday 8 AM to 1 PM

A Day On The River Is Worth A Month In Town

Cabins ~ RV Spaces ~ Gift Shop 830-833-5115

Don’t miss a single mouth-watering issue.

Subscribe online.

inTThhee JJooin Vegolution! 4601 N. Lamar Blvd. Austin, TX 78751 TEL. 512.323.2259 World’s Best Falafel




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Edible Communities is proud to present the Edible Recipe Guide. Covering local food-loving regions across North America, James Beard Award-winning Edible Communities has forever changed the way we think about sustainability and the importance of being connected to your local food community, wherever you live. In this delicious new app, we present the very best of Edible Communities recipes — a must-have collection of local, sustainable dishes that feature delectable meals to warm and wow, from luscious soups to divine desserts and everything in between, including tips and menus, Edible Radio podcasts, and links to all Edible Communities publications. Also included with your purchase of the app is a 6-issue, 1 year, subscription to Organic Gardening Magazine. See offer inside the app for details. Purchase now to get the very best that Edible Communities and Organic Gardening have to offer.

Bookseller BookPeople Texas’s leading independent bookstore since 1970. Located in the heart of downtown, BookPeople has been voted best bookstore in Austin for over 15 years! 512-472-5050; 603 N. Lamar Blvd.

Catering and Meal Delivery Dishalicious Restaurant-quality prepared meals made from scratch, inspired by seasonal produce and delivered to your door. 512-940-9662

Pink Avocado Catering A custom catering company specializing in tailored menus, incredible food & surprisingly personal service. 512-656-4348 401 Sabine St. Ste. B

Spoon & Co. Catering

Texas Oven Co. Experts in designing and building wood-burning ovens: Our handcrafted ovens are fire-breathing works of art. We are also a Forno Bravo pizza oven dealer. 512-222-6836;

Events Come & Taste It at The Grapevine in Gruene On the 3rd Thursday of each month we invite you to meet some of Texas’ best winemakers & brewers with free samples, live music & giveaways at The Grapevine. 830-606-0093 1612 Hunter Rd., New Braunfels

Real farms. Real food. Live music. Kids’ areas. Weekly tastings. Summer festivals. Free parking. Double dollars Tues. for SNAP/WIC. 512-236-0074 400 W. Guadelupe St. 3200 Jones Rd. Sunset Valley 2835 E. Martin Luther King Jr. Blvd. 4600 Lamar Blvd.

Edible Austin’s Sipping Social

Lucky Star

The place to go for a plant-based, comprehensive professional services training, plus public events and classes. Learn here: change your kitchen; change your life. 512-476-2276 1700 S. Lamar Blvd.

Design And Construction Texas Casual Cottages by Trendmaker Trendmaker Homes makes it easy to build a new home on your land–come visit one of our two Model Home Parks in Round Top or Wimberley, TX. 512-392-6591 6555 Ranch Rd. 12, San Marcos 979-278-3015 580 S. Hwy. 237, Carmine

Sundays 11-3. Come celebrate local food, art and live music every Sunday at our unique East Austin market! We accept SNAP/WIC. Free parking. 512-553-1832; 401 Comal St.

SFC Farmers‘ Markets

Culinary Education

The Natural Epicurean

HOPE Farmers Market at Plaza Saltillo

6th annual Texas wine, food & art festival in the new spacious Dripping Springs Ranch Park Event Center. Dripping Springs–where Hill Country starts! 512-858-4740 29401 Ranch Rd. 12 N., Dripping Springs

Friday, June 21! Come to Vuka Co-op for our 1920’s-themed celebration of all things beverage-related. Live music, artisanal food, hand-crafted drinks and surprises around every corner! 411 W. Monroe

The Auguste Escoffier School of Culinary Arts is teaching the next generation of chefs and pastry chefs the importance of sustainable and ethical choices. 512-451-5743 6020-B Dillard Cir.

Hipsters and foodies unite. Saturdays from 9am to 1pm for fresh produce and more. Listen to live music and have breakfast/lunch at one of our food trailers. 512-879-8565; 1012 W Anderson Lane

Dripping With Taste

It’s our business to delight you with the details, memorable events with mindfully chosen, prepared and presented food and a caring crew! 512-912-6784

Auguste Escoffier School of Culinary Arts

Funkytonk Farmers’ Market @ The NATY

Where whole living meets art, Lucky Star is sleepaway camp for women. October 9-13, 2013 in Hunt, Texas. It’s a retreat for mind, body and soul. 361-944-7860;

Farmers Markets 1832 Farmers Market Shop on Tuesdays and Saturdays weekly for freshest of local produce, meats and speciality items. Conveniently located in historic downtown Bastrop. 512-360-4799; 1302 Chestnut St., Bastrop

Cedar Park Farmers Market North Austin’s Saturday market. Located in the parking lot of Lakeline Mall. Local farmers and ranchers, food artisans, seafood and live, local music. 512-743-0678 11200 Lakeline Mall Blvd., Cedar Park

Fredericksburg Farmers Market FFM is a weekly grower/producer-only farmers market in the heart of historic Fredericksburg. Farms, ranches, wineries and fresh food every Thursday 4-7pm. 830-456-1204 Marketplatz, Fredericksburg

in.gredients in.gredients is a zero-waste, package-free microgrocer selling local foods with pure ingredients. 512-275-6357 2610 Manor Rd.

Royal Blue Grocery Downtown Austin’s Neighborhood Grocer with dairy, prepared foods, beer and wine-Royal Blue has it all, in a convenient and compact format. Catering too! 512-499-3993 247 W. 3rd St. 512-476-5700 360 Nueces St. 512-469-5888 609 Congress Ave.

Wheatsville Food Co-op Serving up local, organic, sustainable and humanely raised food since 1976. Full Service Deli, Hot Bar, Salad Bar, Espresso Bar and eating area with wi-fi. 512-478-2667; 3101 Guadalupe St.

Whole Foods Market

Farms Boggy Creek Farm One of the first urban farms in the USA, BCF offers hyper-fresh vegetables at the on-farm stand, Wed. and Sat, 9 am–1 pm. Stroll the farm and visit the hen house! 512-926-4650; 3414 Lyons Rd.

Richardson Farms Our cattle are strictly grassfed. The hogs and chickens are pastured and are never given any growth hormones or antibiotics. 512-446-2306;

Twin County Lamb We are ranchers embracing stewardship of the land providing premium quality all natural, free range lamb raised in the Texas Hill Country. 830-864-4717 30881 Ranch Rd. 385, Harper

Grocers Farmhouse Delivery We bring the farm to your door, offering home or office delivery of local produce, meat, dairy, eggs and local, artisanal products. 512-529-8569;

Greenling Greenling is a home delivery service of organic & sustainably produced local food! 512-440-8449;

Selling the highest quality natural & organic products. 512-542-2200 525 N. Lamar Blvd. 512-345-5003 9607 Research Blvd. 512-206-2730 12601 Hill Country Blvd., Bee Cave 512-358-2460 4301 W. William Cannon

Housewares and Gifts Callahan’s General Store “Austin’s real general store!” From hardware to westernwear from feed to seed... and a whole lot more! 512-385-3452 501 Bastrop Hwy.

Der Küchen Laden Der Küchen Laden is for the little chef in all of us. We have gourmet kitchen ware, tools, gadgets, coffees and teas (just to name a few). Come check us out! 830-997-4937 258 E. Main St., Fredericksburg

The Herb Bar Best place to cure what ails you and a healing resource center since 1986. Our Optimal Health Advisers are highly trained, knowledgeable and compassionate. 512-444-6251 200 W. Mary St.



101 101

Sunset Canyon Pottery The place to go for handmade fine craft specializing in stoneware pottery for table and kitchen. Visit the gallery, working studio, and take a class. 512-894-0938 4002 E. Hwy. 290, Dripping Springs

Williams-Sonoma Since 1956 and now with more than 250 stores nationwide, Williams-Sonoma remains dedicated to customer service and strong commitment to quality. 800-840-2591

Landscape and Environmental Austin Water Utility Austin Water is committed to providing for Austin’s current and future water needs in a reliable and sustainable way. 512-972-0108

Barton Springs Nursery Locally grown Texas native plants. Organic pest management. Environmentally friendly soil ammendments. Beautiful gifts. 512-328-6655; 3601 Bee Caves Rd.

It’s About Thyme Garden Center

lodging Onion Creek Kitchens at Juniper Hills Farm Cooking school, private dinners, luxury cabin rentals. 830-833-0910 5818 Ranch Rd. 165, Dripping Springs

Photography and Art AMOA-Arthouse The museum provides rich environments for a wide range of audiences to investigate and experience excellence in modern and contemporary art. 512-453-5312; 700 Congress Ave. 512-458-8191; 3809 W. 35th St.

Blanton Museum of Art The Blanton Museum of Art, one of the foremost university art museums in the country, offers all visitors engaging experiences that connect art and ideas. 512-471-7324 200 E. Martin Luther King Jr. Blvd.

Cultivate your urban homestead! YardFarm designs & constructs edible, native & waterwise landscapes that reflect their owners’ organic lifestyle. 512-961-7117 7204 Shelton Rd.

Eco-friendly housekeeping, eco yard care, and personal assistant services in the Austin area. Detail oriented, reliable and trustworthy. 512-368-2268

Time Warner Cable Business Class Time Warner Cable Business Class offers a full suite of business communication tools to small and medium businesses and enterprise-sized companies. 877-824-8314; 12012 N. MoPac Expy.

The Purple Fig Cleaning Co. We are a local company providing green cleaning services, producing green cleaning products and offering green living workshops to adults and children. 512-351-1405;

The Village at the Arboretum

Marta Stafford Fine Art

Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center


Hummingbird EcoCleaning

Commercial and editorial photography, specializing in food, travel and lifestyle. 512-694-6649;

TASTE Wine + Art

We are a garden center and teaching facility dedicated to promoting organic time-tested gardening practices. 512-288-6113 8648 Old Bee Caves Rd.

A casual french bistro, serving Austin since 1982, Chez Nous offers a delectable selection of regional French cuisine and wines in a relaxed, convivial and intimate atmosphere. 512-473-2413 510 Neches St.


Top quality culinary herbs for chefs, and native plants for gardeners. A nursery with expert staff and pocket-friendly prices. Free lectures most Sundays. 512-280-1192 11726 Manchaca Rd.

Natural Gardener

Chez Nous

Continental Automotive Group’s Austin Subaru - Locally owned and operated, We’re all about Austin! 512-323-2837; 200 W. Huntland Dr.

Jody Horton Photography

A pairing of art and antiques. The collection includes sculpture, representational works and contemporary expressionism in a charming vintage 1930s home. 830-693-9999 112 Main St., Marble Falls

The Wildflower Center is a native plant botanic garden, a university research center and one of the 1,000 places to see before you die. 512-232-0100 4801 La Crosse Ave.

Austin Subaru

The Village at the Arboretum offers exceptional senior living with luxury services and amenities for Austin’s most fascinating older adults. 512-346-4900 9306 Great Hills Trail


Professional Services Austin Label Company Custom Labels up to 10 x 20 on paper, foil, synthetics, multiple adhesives, embossing, hot foil, UV coatings. Proud members of GoTexan, FTA and TWGGA. 512-302-0204 1834 Ferguson Ln., Ste. 201

Austin Resource Recovery Austin Resource Recovery provides a wide range of services designed to transform waste into resources while keeping our community clean. 311

Join us for lunch, dinner, or brunch to sample our Mediterranean inspired, locally sourced food. 512-477-5211 1213 W. Lynn St.

East Side Pies We’ve got homemade, thin crust pizzas with local veggies and meats. Gluten-free options, too! Three locations: Eastside, Airport and now Crestview. 512-524-0933; 1401 Rosewood Ave. 512-454-7437; 5312 Airport Blvd., Ste. G 512-467-8900; 1809-1 W. Anderson Ln.

El Meson Tequileria Regional home-style Mexican food. Comida Mexicana for Aficionados. 512-442-4441; 2038 S. Lamar Blvd. 512-416-0749; 5808 Burleson Rd.

FABI+ROSI FABI+ROSI serves classic European dishes with a young and modern twist. Sourcing locally grown and sustainably raised provisions is our top priority. 512-236-0642; 509 Hearn St.

FINO Restaurant Patio & Bar

Baxters on Main Offering a stunning art collection by 40+ established TX artists w/ a wide range of styles. Worldwide + TX wines sold by the taste, glass, bottle, or case. 830-868-9290 213 N. Nugent Ave., Johnson City

Cipollina West Austin Bistro

Step back in time amid raw brick walls, soaring ceilings and 1920’s decor for a fine dining experience that will please all your senses! 512-321-3577 919 Main St., Bastrop

Modern Mediterranean. Tapas. Small plates. Paella. Eclectic wine list & signature cocktails. One of Austin’s Best patios. Easy parking. 512-474-2905 2905 San Gabriel St.


Austin grown Argentine restaurant. We use only the freshest ingredients available and make an effort to support local farmers. Food made with love daily. 512-382-1189 1201 E. 6th St. 512-441-9000 13500 Galleria Cir., Bee Cave

Organic gardening products, including soils, herbicides and plants. Seven locations throughout Central Texas. 512-329-4900 3606 FM 1327, Creedmoor 512-754-0060 2212 Old Ranch Rd. 12, San Marcos 512-930-8282 250 W.L. Walden Dr, Georgetown

Cedar’s Mediterranean Grill

Green Pastures

Buenos Aires Cafe

Enjoy a delicious blend of Italian and Lebanese food in a casual dining atmosphere. Recipes feature the healthy ingredients of the Mediterranean region. 512-321-7808 904 College St., Bastrop

Located in old South Austin a mile and a half south of the river on 5 acres. Offering lunch, dinner, and Sunday brunch. Catering and events on and offsite. 512-444-4747 811 W. Live Oak St.



103 103

Jack Allen’s Kitchen


Texan in spirit and local in source, Jack Allen’s Kitchen serves up Texas-inspired cuisine, fresh cocktails, cold beers and good times daily. 512-852-8558; 7720 Hwy. 71 W. 512-215-0372; 2500 Hoppe Tr., Round Rock

Home of one of the 50 best burgers in Texas! Come sit on the porch and indulge in fantastic burgers with all the fixin’s, great milk shakes and much more. 512-321-1803 2804 Hwy. 21 E., Bastrop

Kerbey Lane Cafe

ThunderCloud Subs

Kerbey Lane Cafe has proudly served comfortable food at a reasonable price since 1980. Come into any of our 5 Austin locations for a taste! 512-451-1436; 3704 Kerbey Ln. 512-445-4451; 3003 S. Lamar Blvd. 512-258-7757; 13435 Hwy. 183, Ste. 415 512-477-5717; 2606 Guadalupe St. 512-899-1500; 4301 W. William Cannon

The Leaning Pear Café & Eatery Serving the Texas Hill Country fresh and seasonal favorites using local ingredients. 512-847-7327 111 River Rd., Wimberley

Lenoir Lenoir is an intimate, family-run restaurant offering a weekly, local prix-fixe menu, great wine and friendly service. 512-215-9778; 1807 S. 1st St.

Magnolia Cafe Come to Magnolia Cafe! Fresh food cooked with passion in a comfortable setting, kind of like your favorite aunt’s giant kitchen, if she had one. Open 24/8 512-478-8645; 2304 Lake Austin Blvd. 512-445-0000; 1920 S. Congress Ave.

Navajo Grill A unique dining establishment nestled deep in the heart of where historic Fredericksburg lies. 830-990-8289 803 E. Main St., Fredericksburg

For fresh, fast and healthy, head on over to your neighborhood ThunderCloud Subs, Austin’s original sub shop. Now with 30 locations in Central Texas. 512-479-8805

TRACE Austin TRACE Austin is a sleek and sophisticated restaurant featuring the finest flavors of Central Texas sourced directly from the region’s surrounding farms. 512-542-3660 200 Lavaca St.

The Turtle Restaurant Your destination for food prepared from locally available, seasonal ingredients. 325-646-8200 514 Center Ave., Brownwood

Uptown Blanco Restaurant Open for lunch daily. Dinner Thurs.–Sun. Unique culinary specials using local hill country ingredients. Ballroom & Courtyard available for private groups. 830-833-0738 317 Main St., Blanco

Wink Restaurant & Wine Bar The daily menu is based on local artisans. Wink happily embraces omnivores, vegetarians, vegans, pescetarians and special dietary issues. 512-482-8868 1014 N. Lamar Blvd.

Specialty Market

Papi Tino’s

For Goodness Sake Natural Foods

With a simple and elegant interior Mexican menu, and a tree canopy covered front porch, this genuine Mexican Cantina’s atmosphere is simply quite perfect. 512-479-1306; 1306 E. 6th St.

Family owned and operated health food store featuring high quality supplements, all natural and organic bodycare plus unique grocery items. Peace & Love! 830-606-1900 1306 E. Common St., New Braunfels

Snack Bar

Make It Sweet

Chef-driven, globally inspired & locally sourced menu with eco-vineyard wine, craft beer, artisan coffee and tea in a stylish relaxed space. Bring the dog. 512-445-2626 1224 S. Congress Ave.

At Make It Sweet, you can find tools, supplies and ingredients to make cakes, cookies and candies and learn fun, new techniques in the classes offered. 512-371-3401 9070 Research Blvd.




Tourism Bastrop Chamber of Commerce Our Patriotic Holiday events are fun to share with the whole family. Visit Bastrop on July 6 and share in the celebrations! 512-303-0558 927 Main St., Bastrop

Bastrop River Company The only full service river outfitter in the Colorado River basin featuring kayak and canoe excursions, SUP river options, tubing, and shuttle services. 512-988-1154 601 Chestnut St., Bastrop

Brenham/Washington County Convention & Visitors Bureau Brenham/Washington County is the perfect location to enjoy affordable events at historic sites, wineries and lush gardens! Great shopping, dining, lodging. 979-836-3696

Comanche Chamber of Commerce & Agriculture Nestled in the hills of Central Texas, Comanche boasts of antique and gift shops, great restaurants and lodging facilities, an art gallery, plus lots more. 325-356-3233 304 S. Austin St., Comanche

Messina Hof Winery & Resort Messina Hof Winery & Resort features world class award-winning wines and hospitality in their Fredericksburg and Bryan tasting rooms, B&Bs and Restaurant. 979-778-9463 4545 Old Reliance Rd. Bryan 830-990-4653 9996 US Hwy 290, Fredericksburg

Wellness Aquasana Healthy living starts with healthy water! Aquasana manufactures and sells high performance water filtration systems for home and commercial use. 866-662-6885

Bicycle Sport Shop Bicycle Sport Shop has been selling bicycles and cycling equipment in Austin since 1983. Our goal is to get more people on bikes more often. 512-477-3472 517 S. Lamar Blvd. 512-345-7460 10947 Research Blvd. 512-637-6890 9900 W. Parmer Ln.

Cherry Blossoms Spa Enjoy a relaxing spa experience “where beautiful things happen!” 512-332-2600 804 Spring St., Bastrop

Peoples Rx Fredericksburg Conference and Visitors Bureau Visit Fredericksburg, a small gem nestled in the Texas Hill Country. Enjoy eclectic shops, diverse lodging, amazing restaurants and Texas wines. 866-997-3600

Hyatt Regency Lost Pines Resort and Spa Escape to infinite comfort at our award-winning resort set along the banks of the Colorado River. Minutes from the airport and downtown Bastrop! 512-308-1234 575 Hyatt Lost Pines Rd., Lost Pines

Marble Falls Chamber of Commerce Marble Falls is the gateway to exciting Hill Country day trips - wineries, lakes and caves, just to name a few. Come stay with us and see for yourself. 830-693-2815

Austin’s favorite pharmacy for more than 30 years, Peoples integrates nutrition, supplements and medicine with natural remedies and custom Rx compounding. 512-219-9499; 13860 Hwy. 183 N., Ste. C 512-459-9090; 4018 N. Lamar Blvd. 512-444-8866; 3801 S. Lamar Blvd. 512-327-8877; 4201 Westbank Dr. Want to have your business listed in this directory? Please contact for more information.




Devon Dikeou. PLEASE SIX (BOUQUET DE PIVOINES), 2011 Ongoing. C-Print of a Hand-Blown Glass Vase and Fresh Flowers Arranged to Replicate One of the 16 Last Paintings Édouard Manet Painted Before Dying, 21 5/8 x 16 ½ inches (54.92 x 40.64cm). Courtesy of the artist.

art de terroir

Please Presented by AMOA-Arthouse | The Jones Center On view July 14–September 1, 2013

Stop and Eat the Roses Tuesday, July 23 | 7:30–10 pm | The Jones Center Roof Deck Artist Devon Dikeou recreated each flower arrangement and vase in Édouard Manet’s last paintings for her exhibition Please. Flowers are symbols of beauty and time, and also sensual additions to cuisine. Come experience the art in the galleries then taste food and drink created with edible flowers. Tickets $20 / $15 members available at Co-presented by Edible Austin.

Laguna Gloria 3809 West 35th Street 512.458.8191

The Jones Center 700 Congress Avenue 512.453.5312

The Summer heat is on So we're keeping it cool (always about 65˚F) here at the shop in beautiful downtown Austin, where we doggedly continue offering both the high quality and the everyday value our discerning clientèle have come to expect. Come on in and chill for a bit in the cool of our air-conditioned store whilst perusing our wares. And make sure to pick up a cool bottle or two to take the edge off the heat of the day—a chilled bottle of pink wine from the south of France will hit the spot!

cool. Curated. and Quietly competitive, too!

Elegant gift wrap & local delivery available Locally Owned and Operated

Courteous, Professional Service

512 West Sixth Street, Austin, Texas 78701 | Monday - Saturday 10am - 6:30pm | 512.499.0512

fresh as the day is long...

Arbor Trails Bee Cave 4301 w william cannon 12601 hill country blvd 358-2460 206-2730

Downtown 525 north lamar 476-1203

Gateway 9607 research blvd 345-5003

Edible Austin Beverage Issue 2013  

Edible Austin's 2013 Beverage Issue focuses on the plethora of craft beverages coming out of Central Texas, from beer and wine to liquor to...

Edible Austin Beverage Issue 2013  

Edible Austin's 2013 Beverage Issue focuses on the plethora of craft beverages coming out of Central Texas, from beer and wine to liquor to...