Edible Austin Jan/Feb 2020 by Edible Austin

Starting Fresh / Pecan Grove Farms / Cooks at Home / Buddha's Brew No. 68 Jan/Feb 2020

Cel eb ra ti n g th e ver y b est of Ce n t ra l Texa s fo o d cu lt u re

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U SH

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ORGANICS DIVERSION REQUIRED

REDUCE Create daily specials with food nearing expiration.

DO YOUR PART TO REDUCE FOOD WASTE

DIVERT 37% of Austin's waste could feed animals or be composted.

The City of Austin requires restaurant owners and managers to provide their employees access to methods that divert organic material (food scraps) from the landfill. They must also report how they meet these requirements by filling out an organics plan every year before February 1.

Fill Out Your Organics Plan Today At:

AustinTexas.gov/bizorganics

DONATE 1 in 4 children in Travis County is food insecure.Â

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PFLUGERVILLE 15803 Windermere 512-989-2524

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EdibleAustin.com / 5

CONTENTS R EGUL A R S

10 What’s on Our Counter 12 N otable Edibles

STARTING NEW

FRESH START SMOOTHIES

Make 2020 your best year

This January has a taste

of cooking

for goodness

COOKS AT HOME GSD&M President

PECAN GROVE FARMS

Marianne Malina travels far

Where the fruit of their labors

but keeps her kitchen local

keeps Texas heritage alive

MLK March, Festival & Food Drive

Les Dames d’Escoffier Austin

16 W hat’s in Season 18 E dible Endeavor Conscious Goods

21 S potlight on Local Buddha's Brew Kombucha

44 E dible Varietal Versatile Texas Roussanne

46 E dible Ink Lemonade

On the Cover Start 2020 with smoothies on page 26. Photography by Rachel Johnson.

EdibleAustin.com / 7

PUBLISHER’S note

A Fresh Start

reparing this issue of Edible Austin was a challenging, exciting experience for myself and our Associate Publisher, Ralph Yznaga, as

we took over the reins from former publisher Jenna

PUBLISHER

Northcutt. We want to thank Jenna for all the years

Monique Threadgill

she dedicated herself to Edible Austin and to promoting local businesses and being a champion for healthy, local and sustainable foods throughout our region.

ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER Ralph Yznaga

Ralph and I are excited to continue to provide readers of Edible Austin with interesting and unique stories of local farmers, ranchers, restauranteurs and entrepreneurs throughout the Central Texas

ASSOCIATE EDITOR

region. In this issue, we wrote about family owned Pecan Grove Farms in Bastrop, which

Sarah Welch

was started 40 years ago when Hal and Lisa Berdoll planted their first crop of pecan trees. Today, the farm is owned by their daughter, Jennifer Wammack, and there are more than 20,000 pecan trees yielding 500,000 pounds of pecans each year. You can read all about Pecan Grove Farms by turning to page 37. One of our favorite features in the magazine has always been the sneak peek into

EDITORIAL ASSISTANTS Claire Cella Stacey Ingram Kaleh

influential Austinites’ kitchens in the Cooks at Home section and this month we visited with (and got to sample) some amazing dishes created by GSD&M President Marianne Malina.

DISTRIBUTION

Her creativity in the kitchen is a way for her to express herself, and a blessing for others to

Craig Fisher, Flying Fish

enjoy, with her Rambler Pancakes topped with Gigi’s Peach Preserves being a huge hit among family and friends. Recipes can be found on page 35. As a great way to kick off the year, and each day, we included a feature about smoothies and how to add in new ingredients that are low in calories and high in nutritional benefits. From ground flax seeds to whole oats and hemp seeds, we’ve got information and recipes

to help take your smoothies to a new level on page 26. I look forward to bringing you more stories and information throughout 2020 and am excited to continue to build on Edible Austin’s strong foundation!

Edible Austin Mission To transform the way Central Texans eat by connecting them to the local food growers, producers and makers, thereby strengthening the local food economy and creating a sustainable local food system. Edible Austin is a locally owned media company and the authority on the local food scene as captured in print and digital and through our community events.

8 / EdibleAustin.com

Edible Austin is published bimonthly by Edible Austin L.L.C. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be used without written permission of the publisher. ©2019. Every effort is made to avoid errors, misspellings and omissions. If, however, an error comes to your attention, please accept our sincere apologies and notify us. Edible Austin is a member of Edible Communities.

eat drink LOCAL

Support our local food community! Get in touch with the finest local restaurants, farms, stores and stories at edibleaustin.com and on our social pages. It's a great way to support us, so we can keep bringing you the ever-changing Central Texas food culture. Follow us and subscribe today at edibleaustin.com/subscribe

Where to eat out... Explore our list of locally sourcing restaurants making an effort to support our local farmers and ranchers. edibleaustin.com/restaurants

Ashleigh Amoroso Photography

tilliesdrippingsprings.com

Shy Laurel Photography EdibleAustin.com / 9

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Take a look at what our staff is enjoying this month.

RED BIRD’S HOUSE While drying dishes isn’t a favorite pastime of anyone on our team, we could all agree that the right kind of dish towel makes the task more enjoyable. Red Bird’s House tea towels feature photo-based designs that are detailed, colorful, vibrant and beautiful. Red Bird’s House is a passion project turned into a business for Pauline Stevens, a local photographer in the New Braunfels area, who created the towels based on her love of photography and food. Red Bird’s House towels can be found in local specialty stores such as

W H AT ’ S

ON OUR

COUNTER by MONIQUE THREADGILL photography by RALPH YZNAGA

Con’ Olio in Austin, Red Oak Bakery in New Braunfels, and ordered online. 210-275-4696 redbirdshouse.com

BARBECUE WIFE When we want a twist on the traditional margarita, we love to open up a jar of Barbecue Wife’s Texas Smoked Honey Margarita Mix and stir up a freshly made margarita for friends and family. Self-proclaimed Barbecue Wife Catherine Stiles uses a unique and simple process to create their “Junk Free” margarita mix that is a blend of real lime juice, Texas Hill Country filtered water and hand-smoked Texas honey, resulting in a mix that is both tart and tangy, with a little bit of sweetness. Their small batch craft cocktail mixers have no high fructose corn syrup or MSG and are made locally in Austin. You can purchase the mixes locally at H-E-B, Royal Blue Grocery, and all Breed & Co. locations and online. barbecuewife.com

BARNESTAR CANDLE COMPANY While winters in Texas are relatively mild, we definitely have our share of days that are cool, damp and dreary. On days like these, we turn to our friends at BarneStar Candle Company and light one of their soy candles made locally in Southwest Austin by mom and daughter team Natalie and Lauren Barnes. BarneStar candles are made from 100% soy and are hand-poured into each container. They offer a range of candle products, a wide variety of scents and many different container options. Find their products locally at Sugar & Paris on South Congress and online. 512-988-0046 barnestarcandle.com

BRENHAM KITCHENS Delicious products made with natural, fresh ingredients are always a topic of conversation at Edible Austin. We recently shared a jar of Brenham Kitchen’s Tomatillo White Chocolate Salsa Verde that we picked up at a local farmer’s market. This mild to medium salsa found its way onto many of our tables, and was enjoyed over scrambled eggs, as a sauce on a chicken dish, and snacked on as a salsa with tortilla chips. Brenham Kitchens makes their Salsa Verde from scratch and creates this unique flavor by incorporating ingredients such as white chocolate, cilantro and almonds along with tomatillo, onions, bell pepper and other spices. You can order their products online or find them at Lone Star Farmers Markets in Bee Caves and Dripping Springs. 979-551-0458 brenhamkitchens.com

EdibleAustin.com / 11

notable EDIBLES

Marching For Love by RALPH YZNAGA / photography by ZACH LUCERO

ife’s most persistent and urgent question is, “What are you doing

If you’d like to donate to the food drive, donation receptacles will be

for others?” proclaimed Dr. Martin Luther King Jr. Here in

available at the University of Texas and the Capitol during the march

Austin, one way we can support others this month is to celebrate

and at Huston-Tillotson during the festival. If you wish to donate food,

the reverend's birthday and legacy on Monday, January 20, 2020, at the annual MLK Community Celebration organized by the Austin Area Heritage Council. The celebration includes a march, a festival and a food drive, and all businesses, nonprofit organizations and individuals are invited to march and honor Dr. King’s contributions to equality. The MLK March kicks off on Monday, January 20, at 9 a.m. with a short program at the MLK Statue on the University of Texas campus. The march continues to historic Huston-Tillotson University, where the MLK Community Festival will commence at 11:15 a.m. and will last until 3:30 p.m. A wide range of vendors and local musicians will make this year’s celebration one to remember. This year, the organization is asking the community to bring canned

please follow these guidelines:

. Healthy, nonperishable foods . Items with intact, unopened, consumer or commercial packaging . Items with nonbreakable packaging (no glass, please) . Food within the expiration date on the packaging . Food from your community or backyard garden . Canned meat like tuna, stew and chili (pop-tops preferred) . Canned vegetables . Pasta and pasta sauce . Beans . Healthy cereal . Peanut butter

goods or nonperishable food items to help fill the shelves of the

Dr. Martin Luther King Jr. once said, “Without love, there is no reason

Central Texas Food Bank. This organization fights hunger across

to know anyone, for love will, in the end, connect us to our neighbors,

21 counties in Central Texas with programs and services uniquely

our children and our hearts.” The 2020 MLK Celebration is one of the

designed to serve our neighbors in the ways they need most. Together

many meaningful ways Austinites can connect with one another this

with partner agencies, they fed more than 200,000 people each month

time of year.

in 2018. To learn more about the event, visit mlkcelebration.com

12 / EdibleAustin.com

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S C R AT C H M A D E

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notable EDIBLES

Agents of Change by RALPH YZNAGA / photography by SHELBY FRY

he next time you bite into a just-picked, locally grown tomato

ways, but we all have one thing in common: at the heart of what each of

or crunch the crust of hand-crafted bread, you can thank Les

us does is serving others. And it gives back in return.”

Dames d’Escoffier International (LDEI). Some of America’s

most beloved culinary trends — local and sustainable ingredients, artisan

Every Saturday, Les Dames Austin hosts a Food Run, transporting

baked goods and even our love of French food — were ushered in by

food that would otherwise be waste from Wheatsville Co-Op to the

members of this premier association of women culinary professionals.

University United Methodist Church, where it is turned into hot meals

“The distinguished women who make up Les Dames d’Escoffier deserve

for the homeless. Some variation of this program has existed since 2003,

our thanks for being agents of change. For over three decades, they have

and last December, they added an additional weekly Food Run from Texas

made it their personal duty to ensure that no one just ‘eats,’ but that we

Farmers Market at Mueller to Posada Esperanza, which is a full-service

all eat well,” explains Grand Dame Alice Waters, chef, author, food activist

transitional housing program for immigrant mothers and their children

and the founder/owner of Berkeley’s Chez Panisse Restaurant.

who are escaping domestic or cultural violence.

Members of the Austin chapter of Les Dames d’Escoffier come from incredibly

diverse

backgrounds

and

talents.

President

Kendall

Antonelli founded Antonelli’s Cheese Shop, Vice President Denise Clark is a certified wine educator, PR professional and activities chairwoman Stacy Franklin is the CEO of Franklin Barbecue. Les Dames Austin includes chefs, restaurant owners, caterers, PR professionals, recipe creators, writers, authors, wine purveyors and so many more. They are committed to philanthropy and service to the local community. Since the Austin chapter’s founding in 2003, they’ve awarded over $100,000 in scholarships and continuing education stipends to local women and have

In 2019, Austin joined the LDEI Global Culinary Initiative to embrace

kept an estimated 15,000 pounds of food from going to waste.

diversity by connecting culinary cultures and crossing cultural

Antonelli explains the significance of the organization, and specifically the Austin chapter: “We’re all busy, hardworking women. Yet we find time — we make time — to support each other and to support other women in our industry. After all, we all came to the hospitality industry in different

WE’RE RIGHT AROUND THE CORNER, AND WE HAVE WHAT YOU NEED.

GROCERY • ESPRESSO • WINE & BEER TO STAY OR GO • LUNCH SPECIALS • GRAB & GO 3RD & LAVACA • 4TH & NUECES 6TH & CONGRESS

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barriers through the Multicultural Refugee Coalition’s New Leaf Agriculture nonprofit social enterprise. Hungry for more? Get involved, support their efforts and join them for events! For more information, visit ldeiaustin.org

FIGHT HUNGER TODAY

Boutique Wines Housemade Charcuterie Artisanal Cheeses Local Bread 312 E Austin Street Fredericksburg

WE NEED YOU TO VOLUNTEER TO FEED YOUR NEIGHBORS IN NEED Volunteers are the heart and soul of the Food Bank. They bring our mission to life. Our volunteers ensure that only the safest food leaves our warehouse, keep mobile food pantry lines running smoothly, prepare childrenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s meals in our kitchen and harvest fresh healthy produce from our garden. After a busy holiday season, we urgently need your help nourishishing the 46,000 Central Texans we serve every week.

Will you answer the call? Sign up today at centraltexasfoodbank.org/volunteer

Gourmet German Fare Intimate, Neighborhood Spot 316 E Austin Street Fredericksburg

There are many ways to help your neighbors in need all year long! Find more ways to get involved at centraltexasfoodbank.org EdibleAustin.com / 15

W H AT â&#x20AC;&#x2122; S

SEASON photography by ALIONA GUMENIUK

Looking for some seasonal recipes? Flip to page 40 to find three delicious recipes featuring the fruit from our very own state tree, the pecan.

16 / EdibleAustin.com

Arugula

Kohlrabi

Asparagus

Leeks

Beets

Lettuce

Bok Choy

Mushrooms

Broccoli

Mustard Greens

Brussels Sprouts

Oranges

Cabbage

Parsley

Carrots

Pecans

Cauliflower

Peas

Celery

Potatoes

Chard

Radishes

Cilantro

Spinach

Collards

Spring Onions

Dill

Strawberries

Grapefruit Garlic (Green)

Tomatoes (Greenhouse)

Kale

Turnips

Hot Chocolate 1 oz Tito’s Handmade Vodka 4 oz hot chocolate Just add Tito’s Handmade Vodka and hot chocolate to your favorite mug. Garnish with whipped cream and nutmeg.

AUSTIN’S ORIGINAL CRAFT VODKA

EDIBLE endeavor

Conscious Goods by DARBY KENDALL / photography by NATHAN BEELS

hen KC McDaniel came down with the flu several years

After the research and development stages are complete, McDaniel

ago, her need for symptomatic relief led to the creation

has to be sure the balms, candles, bug sprays and oils work the best

of one of her business’ best-selling products. After all,

they possibly can before going to market. Because she so often makes

necessity is the mother of invention, and no one is quite as ingenious

her products with specific users in mind, one of McDaniel’s mottos for

as a single mom who doesn’t have the time to be sick.

Conscious Goods is “Lovingly tested on humans.”

“I couldn't get my body aches to go away with Tylenol or ibuprofen,

“When I say ‘lovingly tested on humans,’ I mean the first people these

and I have three boys to take care of,” says McDaniel, founder of natural

products are tested on are the people that I love the most,” she says.

body products and home goods purveyor Conscious Goods. “So I

“Because my oldest has eczema, everything is formulated for people

went down to my shop in the garage and made the first Healing Waters

with the most sensitive skin … If we’re meeting a need that somebody

bath bomb. It wasn’t even dry yet when I threw it in the bathtub, and

has, we want to make it locally, we want to make it sustainably and

it made my body aches go away.”

we want to make it more effective than what's already on the market.”

When McDaniel started Conscious Goods in 2016, she sold her

Along with naturally derived products, Conscious Goods also offers

products at the Barton Creek Farmers Market. In February of last year,

all of their goods in sustainable packaging, shipped in containers that

she relaunched the company nationwide with her mother, Jill, as her

are made from 100 percent recycled materials and can be composted

business partner. “I'm obsessed with the sustainability and with the

or recycled after use. Sustainability is a big motivator for McDaniel, as

efficacy of the products, and she's obsessed with how beautiful they

she strives to keep the business as environmentally friendly as possible.

are, so we make a really lovely pair,” McDaniel says of the partnership.

“Conscious Goods is this really special life's work for me that I never

Even beyond business partnerships, McDaniel’s family has played a

would have predicted. I mean, my background is in history and real

key role in the business, as many of Conscious Goods’ products were

estate law,” she says. “You would not assume that my path was going to

originally created to fulfill the needs of her children and extended

be this obsession with natural products that are sustainably packaged

family members. Their beeswax and essential oil candles were devel-

and sustainably sourced, but it kind of couldn't be anything else once

oped because McDaniel’s sister has an aversion to artificial fragrances

I went down this rabbit hole.”

found in most generic candles. One of McDaniel’s sons has eczema, so she created a naturally derived body salve, Mighty Calm Balm, to help relieve his symptoms. And as the Conscious Goods customer base has grown, so have the requests from patrons for sustainably made, local products to suit their unique needs.

As part of her effort to make Conscious Goods’ products better for the planet and people, McDaniel made sure that their bug repellent, the Don’t Bug Me Spray, is DEET free and safe for kids and pregnant women. Their candles come in charming recycled blue glass containers, and the bath bombs are never packaged in plastic. When looking at

McDaniel’s other occupation comes in handy while laying the ground-

Conscious Goods’ offerings as a whole, it becomes clear that McDaniel

work to produce new goods for the business. “Basically, I become

puts a lot of time and effort into making her business as ethical as possible.

obsessed with the topic, and then I spend countless days staying up until three or four o'clock in the morning, researching every single

“If you're going to create something, you should do it in the best and

thing that I can find,” says McDaniel. “I'm a real estate attorney by

most loving way possible,” she says. “And it feels like the most loving

trade, so research is kind of second nature. I definitely use those

way to create a brand is to make sure that it's sustainable, nurturing,

professional skills to find more information about future products.”

effective and kind.”

EdibleAustin.com / 19

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spotlight on LOCAL

Buddha's Brew Kombucha

by KELLY STOCKER / photography by MELANIE GRIZZEL

ombucha can be a divisive topic. In a world of highsugar

sodas

and

lightly

flavored

water,

there’s

nothing quite like its bright, bubbly, vinegary profile.

People who love kombucha swear by its probiotic properties and antioxidants. People who hate it often can’t get past the SCOBY, that “symbiotic culture of bacteria and yeast,” that floats atop the fermented beverage. Either way, the trendy beverage has surged in popularity, and one of the biggest players in the kombucha market, Buddha’s Brew, is based right here in our fair city. Buddha’s Brew founder, Kimberly Lanski, came to love kombucha in a way that is so Austin: over lunch with friends at the macrobiotic cafe, Casa de Luz. “At the time, I was meditating a lot, an active

EdibleAustin.com / 21

spotlight on LOCAL

part of a spiritual community. We’d have lunch, and a friend of mine would show up with his home-brewed kombucha in wine bottles. I just loved it.” In 2006, a serendipitous trip to the SFC Farmers' Market at Sunset Valley changed the course of her life. Lanski distinctly remembers glancing over at the kombucha vendor and thinking, “That would be a perfect job for me.” Then one day, that guy quit. “When I learned the spot was available,” she says, “I jumped on the opportunity. I started making kombucha at home and selling it at the market. Soon I was making enough to support myself, and I took it on full time.” Lanski did a brisk trade at the farmers market, and her particular brand of sour-balanced fruity kombucha developed a cult following. Even so, it was still a surprise when a Whole Foods Market representative dropped by to propose putting Buddha’s Brew in stores. “Well, I knew my home bottling operation wasn’t going to cut it,” Lanski laughs. “I needed to ramp up production big time. I brought on a business partner — a fellow meditator — and we scraped together $50,000 to rent a warehouse and build a commercial kitchen. It took a lot of work to understand the scope of what was necessary for production, but by 2008, we were fully operational, and in 2009 we were in Whole Foods stores throughout the region.” It’s kind of an entrepreneurial dream story. A person finds what she

Lanski’s dedication to product integrity extends beyond her

loves, does it well and enjoys large-scale success. However, ”it’s not all

operation. She’s also part of an organization called Kombucha Brewers

sunshine and rainbows,” Lanski discloses. “In 2010, all kombucha was

International that’s actively working to set up a standard of identity

pulled off the shelves because of its alcohol content. In the scramble

for the product. “So much of the commercially available kombucha is

to get it back in stores, many commercial brands diluted their product

still adulterated. Sure, it’ll say probiotic on the label — and that’s true

and began filtering out live strains. Then they’d re-add probiotics in

to an extent — but the FDA hasn’t mandated that kombucha needs to

powder or pill form that would never naturally occur in kombucha.”

contain naturally occurring live strains. Lots of brands are filtering out

Though big brands were the first to acquiesce, the heightened scrutiny

all the good stuff.” This kind of regulation feels more critical than ever,

on kombucha affected her colleagues in small businesses as well. She

she explains. “In 2006, there were five kombucha companies in the

watched as fellow purveyors made changes that undermined the true

nation. Now there are 500.”

nature of the product, often in the quest for a larger market.

Their fierce dedication to a high-quality product is certainly paying

Buddha’s Brew, however, held true to its natural approach. After

off. Buddha’s Brew has outgrown its original commercial kitchen

considerable research, Lanksi and her business partner figured out

and is taking over all the space on the warehouse property to build a

how to get the live cultures to eat up all the alcohol. “It was important

beautiful brewery. They are laser-focused on optimizing production,

to me that we kept ours full strength. I refuse to compromise my

but they still like to play around and experiment, using real fruit and

integrity or the integrity of my product. We have 19 billion live

mixing in surprise ingredients like live cultures from grapevines grow-

cultures per bottle, and we routinely lab test to make sure all those

ing at the Barton Creek Greenbelt. Their seasonal and one-off flavors

little organisms are happily swimming around. If you don’t believe it,

reflect their excitement about experimentation. “Last year we did a

leave a bottle of Buddha’s Brew out for a couple of days — first the top

guava that was amazing,” says Lanski. “Watermelon was really great.

will explode off, and then it will start growing its very own SCOBY.”

And we did a peppermint chocolate that was surprisingly delicious.”

22 / EdibleAustin.com

spotlight on LOCAL

They’ve also begun hosting tours and events in their garden and brewing space. “Eventually I want to make group events a regular thing. I love our space, our garden and the greenbelt. I can see this being a boon to the business and a natural next step for us.” And, in a fullcircle moment, they recently hosted the global Whole Foods Market team for a lunch and a tasting out at the brewery. What started out as a sharing lunch among friends has become a thriving business. Lanski finds joy in the “connection we have with people who love kombucha. There’s a community here,” she says. “I consider them my people, my tribe.” While Buddha’s Brew is on retail shelves, they’re still vending at eight farmers markets around the Austin area, engaging with customers one-on-one. “It’s so rewarding to hear first-hand stories from customers about how kombucha has made their bodies work better,” Lanski shares. “The way I figure it, if you can do something that helps people and makes money, then you’re blessed.” Buddha’s Brew retails at Whole Foods, Central Market, H-E-B and eight farmers markets. It’s available in bottles, growlers and kegs. You can also find it on tap at several restaurants and bars if you’d like your kombucha served cocktail-style. For more information, visit buddhasbrew.com

Kombucha Moscow Mule Makes 1 serving 6 oz.

ginger Buddha’s Brew kombucha

1½

oz. vodka

Dash of lime juice Combine kombucha, vodka, lime and ice, and shake, shake, shake. Strain into a copper mug, and add fresh ice. To make it pretty, add a fresh herb garnish and a lime wedge.

EdibleAustin.com / 23

starting NEW

Make 2020 Your Best Year of Cooking by MOLLY COSTIGAN / THE HAPPY KITCHEN PROGRAM DIRECTOR, SUSTAINABLE FOOD CENTER / photography by CARLY JAYNE

ave you resolved to cook more often, more skillfully or more healthfully in 2020? Are you finding it to be more difficult than it sounds? Big plans for roasted vegetables,

homemade salad dressings and hearty stews can quickly go out the window as other responsibilities stack up. And, when you miss a recipe step or forget to buy an ingredient or a dish just isn’t turning out like the recipe promised, it’s easy to get discouraged. That’s why, at The Happy Kitchen, we always look for easy-to-follow recipes and simple tricks to make cooking as easy and efficient as possible.

Follow Your Nose Scent and taste are closely related, so let your sense of smell guide you as you develop your culinary intuition and judge cooking times. Toasted nuts and seeds take on a pleasing aromatic scent the moment they are ready. But if you wait too long, they will smell and taste burnt. Make a Plan Before You Start Cooking Take stock of what’s on hand, lay out all of your ingredients and have your cookware and tools at the ready.

Start With What You Have Consider what you already have before you make a meal plan or grocery list. If you’re throwing together a meal on the spot, make one of your available ingredients the focal point. Keep it simple: think stirfries, whole grains and veggies topped with a simple sauce, soups and the like. Keep a Well-Stocked Pantry Dried beans, pasta and whole grains all create solid foundations for simple meals. Identify a few key flavor enhancers (soy sauce, lemons, anchovies, Dijon mustard, capers, toasted sesame oil or Worcestershire sauce, for starters), spices and staple ingredients (olive oil, eggs, salt and pepper), and make them regular fixtures in your pantry. Know Classic Flavor Combinations Use ingredients that already work together. For example, if you love Italian food, experiment with ingredients in that flavor family, like basil, tomato, olive oil and Parmesan. Keep It Balanced Remember that the basis of creating and balancing flavor is in how you use the five tastes: sweet, sour, salty, bitter and umami. Too sweet? Try a little acid. Too bitter? A drop or two of sweet and sour can turn that around.

24 / EdibleAustin.com

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cooking FRESH

Smoothies For A Fresh Start story and photography by RACHEL JOHNSON

here is only so much holiday pie one can consume before the body starts to crave good, natural food. What better way to lean into healthful eating this New Year than to pack as many fruits

and vegetables as possible into one meal as a satisfying smoothie?

Whole Oats Add old-fashioned oats to a smoothie for a protein-packed (and gluten-free) base that is sure to fill you up. Add cooked and cooled oatmeal directly to the smoothie base, or blend raw oats in the body

But look beyond the traditional staples like bananas, nut butters and

of the blender and pulse until they form a coarse meal. This will allow

frozen fruit, and add new ingredients that are low in calories and high in

you to break up the oats without over-blending the entire smoothie.

nutritional benefits to take your smoothies to the next level. From super seeds to steamed vegetables, experiment with these approachable boosts

Hemp Seeds

for extra protein and fiber to start your day. For best results, keep all fresh

Similar to flax and chia, these seeds are protein-rich and packed with

ingredients frozen or very cold.

plenty of nutrients. Hemp seeds add texture and a boost of natural

Ground Flax Seeds Per tablespoon, these mighty seeds are a great source of protein, fiber and omega-3s. In order to coax the maximum amount of nutritional

vitamins without adding a significant flavor profile or calories. Keep hemp seeds in the freezer to avoid spoiling. Greek Yogurt

benefit from this ingredient, try pulsing the seeds in a clean spice or

Plain, full-fat Greek yogurt is an excellent source of protein, ideal for

coffee grinder until a coarse meal forms. Pre-ground flax seeds are

rounding out the body of a smoothie. Greek yogurt pairs well with just

easy to find, but they are typically more expensive and spoil faster

about any fruit without adding a significant amount of sugar.

than whole seeds. Chia Seeds A very powerful carbohydrate, chia seeds are high in antioxidants and low in calories. When exposed to liquid, these little seeds expand into filling, fiber-rich â&#x20AC;&#x153;pebblesâ&#x20AC;? that are ideal for balancing the sugars in a smoothie.

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cooking FRESH

Strawberry-Oat Smoothie Pulse the oats and flax seeds into a coarse meal before adding the wet ingredients for a super smooth “milkshake” that’s packed with protein and fiber. ¼ c.

old fashioned oats

1 T.

ground flax seeds

6 oz. frozen strawberries 1

small frozen banana

¼ c.

Greek yogurt

½ c.

unsweetened oat milk

2 T.

granola of choice (if desired)

1. Add oats and flax seeds to blender and pulse for 3 seconds at a time until a coarse meal forms. 2. Add remaining ingredients, and blend on high until smooth. Pour into a tall glass, and top with granola if desired.

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Pineapple and Greens Smoothie

cooking FRESH

Bursting with tropical flavors, this sweet smoothie is balanced with filling chia seeds and protein-rich Greek yogurt. Be sure to add ingredients in the order listed; this smoothie’s consistent texture relies on layering the tougher ingredients closer to the blade. 1 t.

chia seeds

1 T.

hemp seeds

1 c.

fresh baby spinach

¼ c. plain Greek yogurt ½ c. frozen pineapple chunks 1

medium banana (frozen)

½ c. cold coconut water 1. Add ingredients to the blender in the order listed, starting with chia seeds. 2. Blend on high until smooth. Pour into a glass, and serve.

EdibleAustin.com / 29

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COOKS at home

Cooking with Marianne by NATHAN MATTISE / photography by MELANIE GRIZZEL

ew frequent flyers fly as frequently as Marianne Malina. As

in their monthly farmers market box and her need to find a more

president of the influential Austin-based ad agency GSD&M,

palatable Trojan horse for her husband into the world of veggie-

with high-profile clientele including the likes of Popeyes and

forward eating. And though the formula remains basically the same

Universal Parks & Resorts, she’s constantly on the road — or in the

— kale, almonds (for a wonderful, slightly grainy texture), almond

sky. On top of that, Malina jokes, she doesn’t just travel for work: “The

milk and a smidge of banana with optional ingredients including salt,

problem is we travel for pleasure, too.” She’s spent extended time in

honey and the Juiceland-suggested frozen cauliflower — the drink

Amsterdam and Greece (though in retrospect, she recommends living

works as a microcosm for Malina’s overall culinary approach. It leverages

in places that have tacos). And even within the week leading up to

good local ingredients, keeps flavors simple and, well, proves to be

a recent rendezvous with Edible Austin, Malina had visited Mexico,

quite ephemeral.

Detroit and Plano.

“The real truth is I don’t measure anything, and I really don’t follow

That said, Malina is an Austinite through and through. She stocks a

recipes,” Malina says. “My husband has a saying: ‘This is so good,

fridge with Rambler Sparkling Water and maintains a stock of local

Marianne … we’re never going to have it again, are we?’ I’ll open the

favorites in everything from coffee (Anderson’s Coffee Co.) to yogurt

drawer, take what I have and just make it — so he’s right. We’ll never

(White Mountain Bulgarian). She even wears a locally found shirt,

have it again.”

shoes and skirt for our get-together in her home. So give the longtime creative the choice to spend one day in any single location, and she’s standing in it. "My favorite days are when I don’t leave the house, and the kitchen is by far my favorite place. It’s my art studio," Malina says. "I don’t have a plan — no, 'Oh, I’m going to make this today.' I just look at what I

The Green Drink happens to work best as part of Malina’s favorite food category: breakfast. Growing up in Portland, OR, she recalls that her father, a master carpenter, would wake up early to cook bacon, eggs and sausage as the necessary fuel for a full and physical day. For Malina, breakfast remains one of the most reliable times she can get her family all together, over coffee and The Green Drink before they

have and start making stuff. If I make breakfast, lunch and dinner, and

disperse to their own full days.

I don’t leave the house, it’s amazing. One of my favorite things to do.”

That reality may be why Malina especially cherishes her occasional

Watching Malina navigate her spacious and sleek wood-accented kitchen, it’s clear she enjoys what “studio” time she gets. With a thin spatula acting as her de facto brush, she handles the griddle seemingly without looking while regaling the Edible Austin team with stories like the time she worked on a scuba-diving expedition boat in the Red Sea. And as you might expect, all that creativity she puts to use in her day job tends to surface in the kitchen, too.

weekend routine: making pancakes. Partially inspired by the delicious batters and doughs of places like Paris and San Francisco, where locals swear it’s due to “something in the water,” Malina makes “true Austin pancakes” by using local sparkling water in her batter. (Once upon a time that meant Topo Chico; these days it’s Rambler.) The carbonation creates a lighter, airier pancake in the end, and Malina has the perfect crisped edge down to a science (she says to use butter, flip ’em when the batter bubbles start to pop and aim for smaller pancakes to better

Case in point: The Green Drink. The Malina household’s now-

control temperatures). Accordingly, the Malina house has become a

standard juice first came about because of an abundance of greens

popular sleepover destination for her son’s friends.

EdibleAustin.com / 31

COOKS at home

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COOKS at home

The only way these effortlessly edible cakes get better is if Malina is making them later in the calendar year. That’s the only time when Malina’s favorite local Austin product — Gigi’s Peach Preserves — is available. Using a recipe that goes back at least two generations of Malinas, she and a small army of cousins clean, chop and stew peaches from Stonewall, Texas, while Ida “Gigi” Malina (Marianne’s mother-in-law) oversees the entire operation. Dolloped onto a stack of pancakes, the preserves were everything you’d dream a multi-generation Texan family recipe would be: rich, indulgent, well-textured and so good you’d eat it on just about anything. Malina notes that cheese, toast and PB&Js are popular alternative carriers for the preserves, and luckily Gigi is so gracious she agreed to share the recipe publicly. Taken all together, an afternoon spent in Malina’s kitchen makes it easy to understand why — despite a line of work that requires frequent world travel — her happy place remains right next to her fridge full of Rambler. “I could be on a conference call, pull into the driveway and have 5,762 emails in my inbox, and I walk in here and start to do this and forget about all that,” she says. “Cooking is a relaxation tool that a lot of people use. It’s also highly satisfying, and you do ultimately get a reward from it.” EdibleAustin.com / 33

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Gigi’s Peach Preserves Courtesy of Ida “Gigi” Malina

MAKES 12 - 15 8 OUNCE JARS 12 c. Stonewall-fresh peaches, chopped 7 c. sugar

Boil gently for 10 minutes. Add 3 cups of sugar. Boil peaches and sugar gently for 15 minutes. Put in sterilized, hot jars and seal.

Marianne's Green Drink Makes one 10-12 ounce serving 12 c. ½ ¾ c. 1 t.

peaches, chopped banana, frozen Handful of almonds almond milk honey Large handful of kale or spinach

Add everything into a blender, and blend until smooth.

Rambler Pancakes MAKES 8-10 PANCAKES 1 ½ c. 2 T. 1 T. ¾ t. 1 ¼ c. 1

all-purpose flour sugar baking powder salt Rambler sparkling water egg

4 T.

unsalted butter, melted

Mix all ingredients together until there are no lumps. Grease griddle with butter, and heat. Pour batter onto hot griddle, and wait for bubbles to pop. That’s when you know it’s time to flip. Flip pancakes, and let them finish cooking. Serve immediately.

EdibleAustin.com / 35

FARMERS diary

Pecan Grove Farms by ADA BROUSSARD / photography by CASEY WOODS

f you’re on the pecan prowl in Bastrop and you doubt your direction,

the Colorado River — an area historically and biologically primed for

just look for the giant 14-foot squirrel seated in front of the Berdoll

pecan production.

Pecan shop on Highway 71. Just behind the squirrel lies Pecan Grove

Farms and its more-than 20,000 pecan trees, in an orchard that Hal and Lisa Berdoll began planting in 1980.

The drive down the dirt roads on Pecan Grove Farms’ Bastrop orchard (they have two other orchards in South Texas) is mesmerising. There are seemingly endless rows of trees, precisely

The history of the pecan in Texas, however, began thousands of years

planted in grid and diagonal formations thoughtfully designed

before that. Pecans are our nut! They are native to the southern

to harness the sun and deter the wind. It almost makes you dizzy

United States, including almost all of Texas. Natural pecan groves or

to look out the window. Unlike almonds, whose trees are usually

“pecan bottoms” can be found in the fertile soil surrounding rivers

removed after about 15 or 20 years, pecan trees can be productive

and streams, and pecans were an important part of a winter diet for

fruit bearers for upward of 100 years. The trees that Hal Berdoll began

Native American tribes that lived in or made their way through what

to plant some 40 years ago are now in the hands of Pecan Grove

is now Texas. Pecans have also historically been planted as shade

Farms’ manager, John Luzius, and these are good, green-thumbed

trees, and if you grew up in the South, chances are you knew some-

hands. The orchards Luzius stewards are enchanting pecan forests.

one with a fruit-bearing pecan tree in their yard. (Hopefully it was

In the winter months, the ground is carpeted in electric green rye-

your grandmother, and hopefully she made you pie.) Beginning in the

grass that makes you want to frolic and picnic amid the stately trees.

1800s, improved pecan varieties began to be cultivated, and the first

This grass, by the way, is fed a rich diet of pecan-wood mulch, a

intentional pecan orchards were planted. Fast forward to 1906 when

byproduct of the hedging and harvesting processes Luzius oversees.

Texas Governor James Stephen “Big Jim” Hogg requested that a pecan tree be planted at his gravestone and the seeds spread around Texas

If you’re imagining pecan farming as a passive enterprise, you may be

so that Texans everywhere “may plant them and make Texas a land

thinking of your experience picking pecans from a “yard tree,” as Luzius

of trees.” A few years later, the pecan was declared the official state

calls them. For him, pecan farming is a complex agricultural endeavor

tree, and many more years later, Hal Berdoll planted an orchard along

that involves much more than just keeping the trees alive and gathering

EdibleAustin.com / 37

FARMERS diary

38 / EdibleAustin.com

FARMERS diary

whatever fruit they happen to drop. Pecan trees in a commercial farm

At Pecan Grove Farms, various software systems (as well as an

are only valuable if they produce large amounts of fruit, a process

IT director) help organize everything from task management

facilitated by encouraging the growth of fruit wood. “Fruit wood is

to equipment orders. Every morsel of data you can imagine is

that real ugly, wiry wood on the inside of the canopy,” Luzius says as

recorded on tablets and analyzed in spreadsheets. Each day,

he points out some spooky branches in the upper middle section of

satellite images are generated with reports detailing location

a tree. “That’s what we want. That’s where we have a lot of nuts, and

and speed at which certain tasks are accomplished — and

we’re always trying to protect and regrow as much of this fruitwood as

whether or not these activities are happening on time and on

we can.” The work of a pecan farmer is trying to maintain a continual

target. In a nutshell, Pecan Grove Farms is exceptionally tech

balance between growing and pruning the correct type of wood and

savvy, and the resulting efficiency is good not only for the company’s

growing and harvesting delicious, fully formed nuts.

longevity but also for their employees’ satisfaction. You know

Pecan

Grove

Farms

grows

f ive

main

varieties of pecans in Bastrop — Pawnee, Wichita,

what else is good for employee satisfaction? Sweet and buttery Texas pecans.

Cheyenne, Kiowa and Choctaw — with other

By the time Hal Berdoll was ready to sell his pecan orchard,

varieties strategically planted here and there to

his daughter Jennifer Wammack was ready to buy and take over

aid in pollination. Each

tree

their iconic shop and farm off of Highway 71. Nearly all of the

pollinates and bears fruit at a different time, resulting in a rolling

variety

crop from the Bastrop farm makes its way through the Berdoll

harvest season that is more manageable for the farm crew. Once

shelling facility next to the store and then into the shop —

the shucks covering the pecans begin to split, the fruit is shaken

perhaps in its raw, nutritious form, or maybe in a pie or

from the laden branches. In a very good year, Luzius and his

praline assemblage. Fresh pecans are more golden than brown, and

Bastrop team will harvest 500,000 pounds of pecans, which are

because they haven’t sat in storage, their rich oils have not

separated from leaf and stick debris at the farm’s “clean-

gone rancid, as is the case with some pecans you buy at the

ing plant.” This conglomeration of giant pieces of equip-

grocery store. Hal guarantees that their pecans are fresh from

ment looks like something out of Willie Wonka, except more

this year’s crop and were more than likely harvested just behind

industrial. Standing here amid towering drying cages, roller-

the shop, too — the fruit of Wammack’s parents’ labor. If you have

coasters of conveyor belts and air tunnels designed to blow

never tasted a fresh pecan, we suggest you take a drive east to the

out the “pops” (pecan shells that are missing the fruit), Luzius

Berdolls’ ASAP. And if not for some native nuts, go for the gigantic

describes the other technology employed at the farm. The list is

squirrel, whose name, by the way, is Ms. Pearl. Either way, you’ll

seriously impressive.

be satisf ied.

EdibleAustin.com / 39

FARMERS diary

Spicy Pecans COURTESY OF THE TEXAS PECAN GROWERS ASSOCIATION MAKES 2 CUPS 2 c. ½ t. ½ t. ½ t. ¼ t. ¼ t. ¼ t. 1 T. 1 T. 1 T.

pecans garlic salt chili powder ground cumin cayenne pepper ground ginger ground cinnamon butter olive oil coarse salt

Preheat the oven to 325°. Place pecans in a large plastic zipper bag. Mix the spices in a small bowl. Add this mixture to the pecans, seal the bag and toss well to coat. In a large skillet, melt butter, then add olive oil, and heat. Add the seasoned pecans and cook, stirring constantly, 4 to 5 minutes. Remove from heat, and spread pecans on a baking sheet. Bake, stirring every 5 minutes, until pecans are heated through, 10 to 15 minutes. Remove from oven, and sprinkle with salt. Allow to cool and store in the refrigerator in an airtight container.

40 / EdibleAustin.com

photography by RALPH YZNAGA

FARMERS diary

Pecan Pie Squares

Golden Pecan Milk

COURTESY OF JENNIFER WAMMACK, PECAN GROVE FARMS

COURTESY OF ADA BROUSSARD

3 c.

all purpose flour

¼ c.

plus 2 T. sugar

¾ c.

butter, softened

¾ t.

salt

Heat oven to 350°. Grease a 15 ½” x 10 ½” x 1” baking pan. Blend the flour, sugar, butter and salt in a large bowl until crumbly. Press into pan, and bake until golden brown, about 20 minutes.

If you’re new to golden milk, welcome to the most satisfying (and good for you) beverage, perfect for bedtime or an especially cold afternoon. For the pecan milk: ¾ c.

fresh, raw Texas pecans

3 c.

of water, plus extra to soak the pecans

A pinch of sea salt To make it golden: 1.5 c.

Filling: 4

eggs, slightly beaten

1 ½ c. sugar 1 ½ c. light Karo syrup 3 T.

butter, melted

1 ½ t. vanilla 2 ½ c. pecans, chopped

Mix all ingredients except pecans until well blended. Stir in pecans until well blended. Pour over prepared crust, and bake until set, about 30 to 40 minutes. Cut into squares.

canned coconut milk

1.5 t.

of ground tumeric

cinnamon stick

¼ t.

of ground ginger or a couple slices of fresh ginger

1 T.

coconut oil

A pinch of freshly ground pepper 1-2

T. of maple syrup, to taste

First, make the pecan milk. Place the fresh pecans in a bowl, cover with water, and let soak for at least 30 minutes (up to 24 hours). After soaking, drain the pecans and add them to a blender along with 3 cups of fresh water and a pinch of sea salt. Blend on high speed until creamy, 2 to 4 minutes. Strain liquid, discarding or snacking on any pecan clumps that remain. This pecan milk will keep in the fridge for up to a week — simply shake or stir if separation occurs. To make the milk golden, combine about 1 ½ cups of the pecan milk with the rest of the ingredients in a small pot or saucepan. Over medium heat, whisk the ingredients to combine. The golden milk is done when the mixture is very warm but not boiling. Discard the cinnamon stick and ginger slices (if using), and enjoy warm. Add more maple syrup if you’re hankering for a sweeter treat

EdibleAustin.com / 41

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edible VARIETAL

Versatile Texas Roussane by KRISTI WILLIS / photography by RALPH YZNAGA

iognier may have been Texas’ early white grape star, but a

in France for its deep yellow hue, an aged roussanne would be served

growing number of wineries are turning to roussanne, which

with a traditional dish like poulet au vin jaune et aux morilles, chicken

also originates in France’s Rhone Valley, as a mainstay for

with cream and morels.

their white wines. Despite the tightly clustered grape being fickle in the vineyard — it’s prone to rot if there are heavy rains — Texas grape growers have significantly increased their acreage of roussanne, and Texas wine lovers are reaping the benefits.

To complete his roussanne offerings, Calais created a Port-style dessert wine. Fortified to stop fermentation and preserve sweetness, the roussanne is barrel-aged in an oxidative style for four years. This special wine can only be created every five to 10 years because the

"Roussanne is very versatile,” says Benjamin Calais, owner and wine-

condition of the grapes must be perfect to capture the ripeness needed

maker at Calais Winery and the newly launched French Connection

for the sweet wine. Calais prefers a fruit tart with his dessert wine, as the

Wines. “McPherson [Cellars in Lubbock] makes a light, crisp wine out

simple dish won’t mask the toffee and nut notes of the wine.

of it — we make the extreme opposite with four years in barrel, and you can do everything in between. There is a lot of the winemaker's expression in roussanne." Calais embraces this malleability and makes three very different roussanne-based wines. His La Connection White is a blend of roussanne with marsanne and viognier, traditional blending partners from the Rhone region. The wine, layered with notes of citrus and honeysuckle, serves as a perfect complement for brie and paté or a roasted chicken. For the French Connection Roussanne Reserve, Calais creates a more elegant, full-bodied wine by aging the roussanne in barrels for almost four years. The aging gives the wine depth and boldness and makes it luscious with rich flavors of brioche and apricot. Often called vin jaune

44 / EdibleAustin.com

Calais and other Texas winemakers may have a greater focus on roussanne, but they are also seeking out the grape’s sibling, marsanne. Marsanne, genetically related to roussanne, has traditionally been used as a blending grape with a higher acidity that provides freshness to a blend. Now that marsanne is being grown more widely across the state, wineries are also making single varietal wines like those at Bingham Family Vineyards, Lost Draw Cellars, Reddy Vineyards and Rancho Loma Vineyards. Whether in blends or single varietal styles, dry or sweet, Texas winemakers are embracing the white grapes of the Rhone Valley and creating exceptional, graceful wines with the promise of even more in the future to delight Texas wine lovers.

Where to Find Texas Roussanne AB ASTRIS

2017 Roussanne, Reddy Vineyards 2017 Roussanne, Hoover Valley

ARCHÉ WINES (NORTH TEXAS)

2014 Roussanne, Texas High Plains 2015 True Friends (chardonnay and roussanne blend) 2015 Roussanne Dessert, Texas High Plains

BECKER VINEYARDS

2018 Roussanne Reserve 2015 Prairie Cuvée (marsanne and roussanne blend) 2016 Fleur Sauvage (roussanne, chardonnay and viognier blend)

BELL SPRINGS WINERY

2017 Roussanne, Texas High Plains

BENDING BRANCH WINERY

Branch Texas White (muscat and roussanne blend)

BENT OAK WINERY

2018 Roussanne, Texas High Plains

BINGHAM FAMILY VINEYARDS

2018 Marsanne 2018 Roussanne

BRENNAN VINEYARDS

2018 Roussanne Lily (roussanne and malvasia bianca blend)

DUCHMAN FAMILY WINERY

2017 Duchman Family Roussanne

FRENCH CONNECTION WINES

2018 La Connection White (roussanne, marsanne and viognier blend) 2015 Roussanne Reserve 2015 Roussanne Port Style

HILMY CELLARS

Persephone (roussanne blend) 2016 DOO.ZWA.ZO (chenin blanc, marsanne and orange muscat blend)

KUHLMAN CELLARS

2018 Kuhlmanation Estate White (marsanne and roussanne blend)

LOST DRAW CELLARS

2017 Reserve Roussanne, Bingham Family Vineyards 2018 Marsanne

MCPHERSON CELLARS

2016 Roussanne

PERISSOS VINEYARD

2018 Lucy (roussanne blend) 2018 Reserve Roussanne, One Way Vineyard 2018 Serendipity (roussanne and orange muscat blend)

RANCHO LOMA VINEYARDS

2018 RLV Marsanne

edible VARIETAL

REDDY VINEYARDS

2017 Reddy Vineyards Marsanne

SIBONEY CELLARS

2017 Hot Shot White (roussanne and viognier blend)

SOUTHOLD FARM AND CELLAR

2017 Don’t Forget to Soar (roussanne and albariño blend)

WEDDING OAK WINERY

2017 Marsanne 2016, 2017, 2018 Roussanne

WILLIAM CHRIS VINEYARDS

2018 Roussanne La Pradera

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