No. 53 July/August | Wellness 2017
Celebrating Central Texas food culture, season by season
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Blanton Museum of Art / The University of Texas at Austin / MLK at Congress / Austin, TX 78712 / 512.471.7324 / www.blantonmuseum.org
CONTENTS wellness issue 8 notable MENTIONS 12 notable EDIBLES Folk Potions, Letter of Intent, My Name Is Joe Coffee Co., Merci Natural Cosmetics, Therapy Chickens.
28 COOKS at home
Jeanine Donofrio and Jack Mathews.
38 farmers DIARY
45 edible ENDEAVORS
Natural Champion Farm.
Rock solid in Kerrville.
WELLNESS features 24 Feed the Soil
48 what I eat and WHY
Austin Discovery School teaches with its garden.
32 Andrew Brooks Healing with spirited food.
56 edible GARDENS
Plant me now for winter!
35 Healthy Heat Spice up your health.
63 The Directory
40 Top That
66 department of organic YOUTH
52 Mama Care
Cooking with class.
Add a burst of flavor to your fresh cooking.
New mamas get some postpartum wellness.
COVER: “When Radish-Rich” Tacos (page 28). Photography by Melanie Grizzel.
PUBLISHER’S NOTE FOOD AND CLIMATE CHANGE
s summer temperatures sizzle and the fast-moving storms— both weather- and politically generated—are blowing
through, I am wondering just how climate change is going to affect our local food systems in Central Texas and what we are planning to do about it. As I write this, it is a week away from the international C40 Food Systems Network Workshop in Stockholm to address this very topic, and one thing is clear: Cities and local governments, including our own, are serious about it. The City of Austin is one of 25 municipalities participating in this global summit. Austin joined the C40 Local Food Systems Network in 2016, supporting efforts to reduce carbon
PUBLISHERS Marla Camp Jenna Northcutt
EDITOR Kim Lane
ADVERTISING DIRECTOR Dawn Weston
COPY EDITOR Anne Marie Hampshire
EDITORIAL ASSISTANTS Claire Cella, Dena Garcia, Cari Marshall, Michelle Moore
emissions and increase resilience throughout our food systems. Austin is also one of eight cities in North America to sign onto the Milan Urban Food Policy Pact. According to a Rockefeller Center report, the Milan Urban Food
MARKETING SPECIALISTS Christine Andrews Amy Young
Policy Pact “is the most prominent global initiative that encourages city leaders to consider food systems in resilience planning.” It was established in 2015 to promote
the development of sustainable food systems that are “inclusive, resilient, safe and
Craig Fisher, Flying Fish
diverse, and able to adapt to and mitigate impacts of climate change.” You can read Mayor Adler’s commitment letter on page 13.
ADMINISTRATIVE ASSISTANT Darby Kendall
Kudos to us for sure, but what does this really mean? Edwin Marty, food policy manager at Austin’s Office of Sustainability, says that one of the goals of Austin’s own resiliency plan that is currently in the works is to ensure that our community is food secure—which includes guaranteeing that there is access to enough food in the case of natural or man-made disasters. As with anything that is a worthwhile endeavor that ultimately succeeds, this takes long-term planning, commitment and investment of resources on the part of our local government as well as a well-researched understanding of potential hazards in the making—such as the effects of climate change. While local food systems are quite vulnerable to localized natural disasters
ADVISORY GROUP Terry Thompson-Anderson, Paula Angerstein, Dorsey Barger, Jim Hightower, Toni Tipton-Martin, Mary Sanger, Carol Ann Sayle
CONTACT US Edible Austin 1411A Newning Ave., Austin, TX 78704 512-441-3971 firstname.lastname@example.org edibleaustin.com
such as hurricanes, fires and those fast-moving storms, they can be saviors with longer-term threats that could take down interstate distribution and communication systems and the more predictable effects of global warming. Either way, strengthening our local food supply is a form of homeland security. And investing in local, sustainable agriculture and distribution systems and protecting our water resources are all critical to this end. How can you join the effort? Keep electing smart, forward-thinking local government representatives. Shop at your friendly farmers markets and support locally produced food products and the people devoted to growing and making healthy food. Grow your own food! Host some chickens in your habitat. Share the bounty and make eating well a social benefit for all. And accept the scientifically proven reality of climate change so that we can deal with it.
Edible Austin is published bimonthly by Edible Austin L.L.C. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be used without written permission of the publisher. ©2017. Every effort is made to avoid errors, misspellings and omissions. If, however, an error comes to your attention, please accept our sincere apologies and notify us.
learn alongside austin experts
2 Classes left this year
September 21 Crack Open a Cold One
with Chip McElroy of Live Oak Brewing Come learn about what makes continental beers so great: the chemistry, biology and process behind the beverage in your hand and take away tips on home brewing and buying local. Class includes a Live Oak Brewing pint glass and two pours.
November 11 Breaking Bread
with David Norman of Easy Tiger Bread has long (and we mean long) been a staple of society, but even for many skilled home cooks, baking it ourselves seems intimidating. The class will guide you through breadmaking step by step, and remind us of the pleasures of a day spent baking.
limited seatingâ€”tickets at edibleAustin.com/edl
nc Y: Allia System B ED om od NT Freedlthy Fo E ES ch a PR d Ran for He
n il m a ounc r a F eC h &t
EDIBLE SANTA FE PRESENTS: THE GREEN CHILE CHEESEBURGER SMACKDOWN Let the Smackdown begin! On Friday, September 8 in Santa Fe, seven of New Mexico’s world-class chefs will compete in the Green Chile Cheeseburger Smackdown, presented by Edible Santa Fe. The battling chefs will bring some serious culinary chops to the competition, proving that truly great burgers go beyond American
SEPTEMBER 24-26 | McKINNEY, TX
cheese, lettuce and tomato. Find
Join farmers, ranchers, chefs, and local food activists to learn how these issues (AND MANY MORE) impact you ...
• Bringing back pollinators. • Transitioning a conventional business to sustainable. • Advocating for local foods. • Regulatory barriers for small farmers. SPONSORED BY: EDIBLE DFW • EDIBLE Austin • Southern SARE
farmandranchfreedom.org | healthyfoodsystems.org | 254-697-2661
details and tickets at ediblesmackdown.com and get your plane
EXPLORE YOUR WHIMSICAL SIDE For those of you who have ever entertained the dream of becoming a floral designer, this workshop during Whim Design Days at Dripping Spring’s Camp Lucy is for you. Enjoy three carefully curated days of hands-on demonstrations and lessons in the art of floral arrangements from Floral Manager Rachel Cox and four floral-inspired meals from Chef Rob McMahon. The workshop begins on Sunday,
AUGU , Y S DA
details and to guarantee one of these limited spots, call 512-858-4057.
BECKER VINEYARDS: OLD STOMPIN’ GROUNDS
July 23 at 6 p.m. and concludes on Tuesday, July 25 at noon. For more
For the 14th year, Becker Vineyards will host its Grape Stomp on August 26–27 and September 2–3. Come out to the vineyards in Stonewall to take part in the “best grape stomp in the Texas Hill Country.” Each day features a chance to stomp grapes, taste wines, enjoy live music and sample food from local vendors. On Saturdays, the stompin’ tent is open from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. and from noon to 6 p.m. on Sundays. Their popular “Lucy and the Italian Woman Costume Contest” begins at 3 p.m. on September 3. The event is free and open to all. Visit beckervineyards.com for more information.
AT F I E S TA G A
Edible Austin is teaming up with the Blanton Museum of Art for its upcoming B scene: Colors of India on July 14 at 6 p.m. The evening
reception celebrates the Blanton’s exhibition, “Epic Tales from An-
LIVE MUSIC COLD BEER
sample food from local bakery ChaiWalla and restaurants Tarka and
CELEBRATE THE TASTES AND COLORS OF INDIA
cient India: Paintings from the San Diego Museum of Art,” an exploration of the richness of ancient Indian culture. Tour the exhibition; G’Raj Mahal; and enjoy music from Austin’s own world music ambassador Atash, a collection of master musicians from around the globe. Blanton members attend for free and can access an exclusive member lounge with special art making activities. Admission is $12. Visit blantonmuseum.org for more information.
A CONFERENCE FOR OUR FARMS AND OUR FOOD In its North Texas debut, the 11th annual Farm and Food Leadership Conference will be held in historic downtown McKinney this year, on September 24–26. Presented by the Farm & Ranch Freedom Alliance and Council for Healthy Food Systems, this year’s conference will offer in-depth workshops for farmers and producers; a locally prepared, on-farm dinner; networking opportunities for all participants; a keynote from Fred Kirschenmann, president of Stone Barns Center for Food & Agriculture; and other presentations on a variety of topics of interest to those with a passion for the local and sustainable food movement. Early-bird tickets are available now through August 15. Visit farmandranchfreedom.org for more information and to register.
Sauce Festival turns 27 this year, and promises to pack just as much heat as it has every year since it
STIN CHRON IC AU
cal food trucks and cookbook sales— not to mention Austin’s ever-present
began in 1990. The festival—which features hundreds of hot sauces, lo-
Join us for Whim Design Days, at Camp Lucy on July 23-25th, where Floral Manager Rachel Cox will teach you how to create and care for your own curated floral arrangements.
The annual Austin Chronicle Hot
A TRUE AUSTIN HOT SPOT
Have you ever dreamt of being a floral designer? Are you ready to tap into creative resources that you never knew you had?
HOSPITALITY whimhospitality.com email@example.com 512.858.9446
live music—will be held at Fiesta Gardens on Sunday, August 20, from 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. The event is free with the donation of three nonperishable food items or a cash donation to support the Central Texas Food Bank. The deadline to register to participate in the hot sauce contest is Wednesday, August 17. Visit austinchronicle.com/hotsauce for details.
READY OR NOT: HERE COMES EASY PALEO COOKING Some days, you’re fired up and ready to cook; other days, you dread the thought of making dinner. What’s a crazy busy (but kind of lazy) home cook to do? Join Edible Austin and BookPeople on August 25 to find out. We’ll join food writer
Looking for more space and hill-country views? Helping buyers & sellers in the Austin/Dripping Springs area
Michelle Tam to celebrate the release of “Ready or Not,” a new cookbook from the James Beard award-nominees and New York Times best-selling creators of Nom Nom Paleo, the popular blog, app and best-selling cookbook. The new book includes more than 150 recipes that will make paleo cooking easy, no matter how much time you have. Get your cookbook signed and enjoy tastings provided by 44 Farms and Lox, Box & Barrel and butter-coffee drinks by Picnik. Visit bookpeople.com for more information.
512.789.1633 firstname.lastname@example.org 333 E. Hwy 290, Suite 300 Dripping Springs, Texas 78620 1801 South Mopac, Suite 100 Austin, Texas 78746 Each Office is Independently Owned and Operated
Not intended as solicitation if currently represented by a real estate agent.
SAVE THE DATE TO BID ON A CHEF! The 6th annual Edible Austin Chef Auction, to be held October 5 at the historic Allan House, gives guests the opportunity to bid on exclusive dining packages from some of Austin’s most loved and notable chefs. The night is filled with small bites and sweet treats prepared by each chef, an assortment of refreshing Texas beverages, and entertaining auctioneers to help you get your paddles up to win the dining experience of a lifetime. The best part: All of this fun benefits Urban Roots and Sustainable Food Center. Stay tuned at edibleaustin.com for more details about this year’s auction packages. Tickets go on sale August 1.
JUD WAGGOMAN | email@example.com Mexico: (011-521) 624-158-7764 USA/CAN: 530-751-6797
VISIT MexicoLIVE THERE! IT’s easier than you think
VOTED BEST REALTOR IN LOS CABOS, MEXICO 2015
notable EDIBLES POTION PLAY
ove over steroid cream, petroleum jelly and paraben-infused lotions. Austin singer-songwriter Raina Rose is back
from tour, and she’s been whipping up more than new songs: potions to ease your cough, kiss your skin and generally make you glow, inside and out. Her line of entirely natural, made-inher-kitchen wellness products, called Folk Potions, includes everything from body butter and deodorant to salves, bath teas, beard balms and luscious lotions for your baby’s bottom. Rose still folks out as much as she can—often with her husband, bassist Andrew Pressman—but it’s different now that they have two young sons, 5-year-old Emmet and 2-year-old Benny. Rose and Pressman made the touring life work for as long as possible (they lived on the road until Emmet was 18 months old), but when it didn’t make sense anymore, they became much more home-centric. So why a new venture into an entirely different genre? “I’m a person who has to make stuff during my day— whether it’s food or songs or building something,” says Rose. “I have to do that in order to feel satisfied.” At first, she spent a lot of time perfecting cake-making. “And then my pants didn’t fit. I couldn’t wear any of my clothes anymore. So I stopped making cake.” This led to an “aha” moment: She realized she could bring her knowledge of wellness herbs— gleaned from living on the coast of Oregon foraging when she was a young adult—and her love of the internet to make something tangible, useful and even healing. seen great success sell-
plains. But she was also concerned about what’s in the products
ing on her Etsy website,
generally found on drugstore shelves, so she only uses food-grade
direct on Instagram
ingredients in her line. “Your skin is this huge organ that absorbs
and at the occasional
everything you put on it, so why not put stuff you would eat on
pop-up at various lo-
your body?” Her line currently includes delicious items such as
cations around town.
Baby BUTTer (coconut oil, calendula flowers, shea butter);
Folk Potions has also
Jitterbug lip balm (named for the Tom Robbins’ novel “Jitterbug
been a good way to di-
Perfume” and containing jasmine, tangerine, lavender and beet
versify her creative tal-
powder); Wild Gift coffee scrub (local coffee grounds, sugar, shea
ents at her music gigs.
butter); and she even makes a personal lubrication mix called Sex
“When I play a show,
Potion (shea butter, organic coconut oil, rosehip seed oil, along
it’s also nice to have
with the sultry scents of rose, lavender and neroli essential oils).
something at the merch
Turns out, the whole experience has been rewarding to both
table that’s not music,
Rose personally and to her customers, and has prompted more than
because music is free now. All my records are on Spotify. It’s
a few…interesting…conversations. “People tell me about their fun-
just the reality. So…I’m making something else!” —Anne Marie
gus and their eczema. I love it! It’s an awkward conversation that
I enjoy so much,” she says. And her customers seem to be enjoying it, too. Not only are the reviews impressive (Nick Offerman of
For more information, visit Etsy.com/shop/folkpotions or find
“Parks and Rec” fame even tweeted about her beard balm), but she’s
@folkpotions on Facebook and Instagram.
Photography of Raina Rose and son Emmet by Jen Hellow
She started Folk Potions in November 2016, “partly because the election was so alarming—I needed a distraction,” she ex-
LETTER OF INTENT
weekly, local prix-fixe menu • family owned
n December 21, 2016, City of Austin Mayor Steve Adler signed the Milan Urban Food Policy Pact, joining seven other U.S.
cities—Baltimore, Chicago, Miami, New York, Pittsburgh, San Francisco and West Sacramento—plus 138 cities from all over the world representing more than 470 million inhabitants, in pledging their commitment to developing sustainable food systems that are inclusive, resilient, safe and diverse. Austin is already making headway on planning and implementation for this locally, and Edible Austin will be following and reporting on the City of Austin’s progress over the coming years.
1807 South First Street 512-215-9778 lenoirrestaurant.com
The following is the letter that Mayor Adler signed: Gathering in Milano on the occasion of the Milan Expo “Feeding the Planet, Energy for Life,” we hereby state: BY SIGNING THE MILAN URBAN FOOD POLICY PACT, WE, THE MAYORS AND REPRESENTATIVES OF LOCAL GOVERNMENTS, COMMIT TO THE FOLLOWING: 1. We will work to develop sustainable food systems that are inclusive, resilient, safe and diverse, that provide healthy and affordable food to all people in a human rights-based framework, that minimize waste and conserve biodiversity while adapting to and mitigating impacts of climate change; 2. We will encourage interdepartmental and cross-sector coordination at municipal and community levels, working to integrate urban food policy considerations into social, economic and environment policies, programs and initiatives, such as food supply and distribution, social protection, nutrition, equity, food production, education, food safety and waste reduction; 3. We will seek coherence between municipal food-related policies and programs and relevant subnational, national, regional and international policies and processes; 4. We will engage all sectors within the food system (including neighboring authorities, technical and academic organizations, civil society, small scale producers, and the private sector) in the formulation, implementation and assessment of all food-related policies, programs and initiatives; 5. We will review and amend existing urban policies, plans and
T SIDE NEW EAS N AT LOCATIO TH ST. 1629 E. 6
regulations in order to encourage the establishment of equitable, resilient and sustainable food systems; 6. We will use the Framework for Action as a starting point for
l & Chicon Between Co ma
each city to address the development of their own urban food system and we will share developments with participating cities and our national governments and international agencies when appropriate; 7. We will encourage other cities to join our food policy actions.
GRAB & GO • LUNCH SPECIALS GROCERY • BEER & WINE BREAKFAST TACOS • ESPRESSO PATIO SEATING
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Photography by Julie Cope Photography
THE BEST KIND OF BUZZ
Philip Speer and William Ball at their coffee trailer.
illiam Ball and Philip Speer started My Name is Joe Coffee
toast with apple jam and miso butterscotch, and a steel-cut oats
Co. last February to offer people a pick-me-up—but not
porridge with a soft-poached egg, scallions, bulgogi tofu and
just via the caffeine. In a respectful nod to the ever-important
housemade kimchi, as well as assorted tartines, including the
number 12 (as in steps), the Austin restaurant and bar veterans
“Moroccan Joint,” with house hazelnut hummus, pickled beets,
donate 1.2 percent of their profits to the Central Texas addiction
cucumber, ras el hangout and fresh herbs.
treatment center, Serenity Star Recovery. It’s a cause near and
As passionate as they are about coffee and food, Ball and
dear to the hearts of the two men, who themselves are in recov-
Speer have resolved to never lose sight of My Name is Joe’s
ery from addiction. After getting sober, Ball—owner of Garage
mission to fund and promote recovery. On top of their regular
Cocktail Bar—sought a way to help others do the same. To him,
contributions to Serenity’s Comfort Cafe, which employs the
coffee seemed to be the obvious place to start. “It’s how popular
center’s residents, they’re planning a fundraiser dinner this fall.
culture views recovery: Coffee, cigarettes and a dark, twelve-
They also employ their share of fellow recoverees. As for the
step meeting room,” he says. “I knew both addicts and non-ad-
future of My Name is Joe, the founders have embraced the recov-
dicts would understand the reference.”
ery world’s philosophy of starting small. “When I take a small
Ball teamed up with his friend Speer (a former Uchi part-
step every day—focusing on what I can do today—I eventually
ner who recently opened Bonhomie) to create a menu of coffee
look back and something great has emerged that never could
and food that reflects the healthier approach to life they’ve ad-
have happened if I tried to do it all at once,” says Ball. “Maybe
opted. From a restored Airstream trailer that once hauled around
that philosophy will lead to something more than a trailer, but
Henry Ford II’s wardrobe, My Name is Joe serves drip coffees,
for today, it’s about the trailer and the people who work there.”
cappuccinos and lattes using beans from Vancouver’s 49th Parallel
Coffee Roasters. They’ve also crafted their own housemade take on cold brews and sweeter coffee drinks. On the food end, Speer
For more information visit mynameisjoe.com or find them at
dreamed up creative “coffee sidekicks,” such as almond-butter
503 Colorado St.
obody ever says “I’m going to the ladies room to tar my nose.” Even so, that’s essentially what many are doing with modern
makeup. Made from coal tar, petroleum and other nasty ingredients, many cosmetics seem better suited to pave a road than cover a face. Mercelina Ogle started to see makeup as a sinister cycle: You put icky chemicals on your skin and use other icky chemicals to remove them. “To fix one problem, you cause another,” she says. Mercelina found a more natural solution in the beauty methods of the past. Through research and a lot of experimentation, she developed a line of makeup from ingredients like avocado butter, jojoba oil, vitamin E and seaweed extract. For colors, she turned to mica, iron oxide and carmine (“the only natural way to get a deep red”). Sensing a business opportunity, she tested her growing collection of lipsticks, eyeliners, eyeshadows, blushes and foundations on her nieces and office mates. Encouraged by their rave reviews, she and her husband, James Ogle, launched Merci Natural Cosmetics two years ago—attracting an instant base of loyal followers at the Barton Creek Farmers Market. “We have some customers with sensitivities who enjoy not having to experience the side effects of makeup,” says Mercelina. “Others just want to live a healthier lifestyle and appreciate the work we put in.” Using age-old techniques doesn’t mean the Merci line isn’t keeping up with the fluid trends of fashion, though. This year, Mercelina revamped her lipsticks in matte colors and created a new eyeliner, called “ICU,” to keep the company competitive as it expands its online reach with a presence on Amazon. Of course, the Ogles are up front with customers about the realities of using natural cosmetics—they may not have the staying power of those derived from chemicals, for example. “Sometimes you really do have to slip away to go powder your nose,” says James. Still, he compares natural cosmetics to organic fruit: It might be smaller, but it’s a healthier and tastier choice. “Sometimes a [disavantage] isn’t such a bad thing.” —Steve Wilson For more information, visit mercinatural.com or call 512-766-5797.
Your Baking Headquarters Tools & Supplies
for making cakes, cookies and candies
beginner to advanced 9070 Research Blvd. (512) 371-3401 www.MakeItSweet.com EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM
ardening in the backyard one day, Debra Knox needed to
at their feet and feathers,”
get one of her 40 chickens out from underfoot, so she hand-
says Knox. “You can see the
ed it to her mother-in-law. Her mother-in-law suffered from
change. It’s like when you
dementia and made little sense when she spoke, but something
bite into a wonderful piece
changed as she stroked the bird. “Her face lit up and she started
of chocolate and everything
talking about growing up on a farm—conversations we’d never
melts away. There’s a smile
had,” says Knox. “It gives me goosebumps thinking about it.”
and a sparkle in the eye.”
Up until then, Knox had raised chickens for eggs, competi-
Knox works her chicken
tions and sheer entertainment value. “They’re like ‘Chicken TV’
magic strictly as a volun-
in the backyard,” she says with a laugh. But now her fowl friends
teer, but she’s always evan-
have a new sideline—as therapists. Technically, Knox is the ther-
gelizing about the power of
apist, certified through an online course, but it’s the chickens
poultry. She’s brought her
that do the heavy lifting. Andy, Lola, Gidget and others in the
brood to her day job (“When
friendly flock seem to be able to win over even the hardest of
everyone’s having a stressed
eggs with their fancy plumage and tolerant dispositions. One
day, it helps.”) as well as
paralyzed man at the nursing home Knox visits with her fowl
hadn’t spoken for months until he asked for a bantam in his lap.
As therapy animals, chickens have a big advantage over dogs
“My whole goal is to get chickens out there and have people see
and cats in one key way: Hardly anybody is allergic to them. And
them as more than Colonel Sanders and all the negativity that
so long as Knox pays attention to when they’re getting stressed—
you hear,” says Knox. “If I can work a chicken into a conversa-
and when they need to poop—the nine chickens she entrusts to
tion, I do.” —Steve Wilson
the job can spread a lot of joy during a visit. “Sometimes people want to hold them and sometimes they just want to look
For more information, call Debra Knox at 512-497-8829.
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Photography of nursing home resident Leon holding Opel, a bantam blue D’Anver hen, by Debra Knox
CHICKEN TROUPE FOR THE SOUL
REAL FARMERS WHO MAKE
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EAT HEALTHY, EVEN IN A HURRY The YMCA is pleased to offer The Quick Cook, an interactive 4-week series of classes that emphasize saving time while buying and preparing healthy, nutritious and meals for you and your family. Classes meet weekly to watch cooks prepare the weekâ€™s recipe, discuss food and nutrition and learn from each other. Everyone leaves each class with new knowledge, skills and a recipe to prepare. Join the YMCA of Austin and begin your journey to great health - starting with good food.
TO LEARN MORE & REGISTER TODAY VISIT
a.k.a ALICIA KIM BY K AT H L E E N T H O R N B E R RY • P H OTO G RA P H Y BY N AT H A N B E E LS
bserving Alicia Kim at the Texas Farmers Market at Muel-
willing to pay for clarified, fresh juice for their cocktails? The an-
ler, you’ll notice that her youthful, warm and sparkling
swer, it turns out, is yes.
personality manages to upstage the row of jewel-toned
Kim radiates such a laid-back, Austin-mom vibe that one would
juices and syrups that glow in front of her in the Texas sun. Kim’s
expect her to have been born and raised here. But when asked, a
fledgling company, a.k.a mixology, provides fresh, clarified cocktail
sobering story emerges. “I was one of the Boat People,” she says.
mixers and syrups, and in just a little over a year, has made a pret-
“Do you remember the Boat People?” Indeed, I’m sure many of us
ty impressive splash. Her mixtures have been lauded on KXAN’s
do. When the United States pulled abruptly out of Vietnam, South
Studio 512, and more than a few Austin bartenders have used her
Vietnamese nationals fled the country in tiny boats, desperately
products in local cocktail competitions, such as the 2016 Official
clinging to one another. Kim’s family was ultimately rescued by
Drink of Austin Cocktail Competition, where the winning cocktail,
a U.S. Navy destroyer and sponsored by a church in Biloxi,
Geraldine’s “Far From the Tree,” featured Kim’s pecan orgeat.
Mississippi. Kim, her father, grandparents and siblings remade
It all started one day when Kim and her husband, Cory, were
their lives in the Deep South.
lamenting one of the most vexing issues of our time: the scarcity
“My grandfather was a shrimp fisherman in Vietnam, and
of a pulp-free mimosa (and indeed, orange pulp floating to the top,
that’s what he did in Mississippi, too,” Kim says. “He got himself
sticking to your lips and strangling the carbonation in one’s mimo-
a tiny boat—just a tiny one—and started shrimping. His little boat
sa is a sad reality.) Utilizing her degree in engineering, Kim knew
couldn’t go out very far, but he caught shrimp. My grandmother
immediately that this problem could be quickly solved by using a
got a job in a shrimp-packing plant. My father studied and became
centrifuge on the fresh-squeezed juice. Of course, most restaurants
a welder. Really, my family is the textbook American Dream: ev-
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the shrimp plant, too…starting at fifteen.” Kim’s eyes start to dance. “That’s when I decided I needed a college education!” A scholarship offered by a paper manufacturer led Kim to a major in pulp and paper science and technology, and to a degree in engineering. After working in the paper industry in North Carolina, Kim moved to Austin, married her long-distance boyfriend and worked as an advanced-placement physics teacher in Cedar Park.
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But how did this road lead to clarified juices and syrups?
“My husband and I both love cocktails,” Kim explains, “and it led me to read a lot of books by people in the new cocktail movement. Dave Arnold, who is practically a god in the modernist cocktail world, came to SXSW one year, and he absolutely inspired me
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to try my centrifuge idea. I had been kicking the idea around for a while—wondering if anyone would be interested, but after talking to him, I decided to go for it.” Kim initially sold her clarified juices and syrups to bars (Barley
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Swine and Geraldine’s were early adopters), but in the last year, she’s also been taking them directly to the public at Texas Farmers’ Markets at Lakeline and Mueller. Happily, she’s found a hardcore fan base of cocktail lovers in this town, most of whom return to buy from her again and again. She usually has two clarified juices (recently, they were strawberry and grapefruit) kept on ice, and six clarified syrups, including pure pomegranate grenadine, almond orgeat, pecan orgeat, tonic syrup and “botonic” syrup (an
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FEED THE SOIL BY A N N E M A R I E H A M PS H I R E • P H OTO G RA P H Y BY A N DY SA M S
riving up the road to Austin Discovery School during the
new digs, they had to literally start from scratch. “When we got
school year, you’re likely to see gaggles of kids with wheel-
here six months ago, this field was basically a desert,” says Thora
barrows, shovels, hoses and hoes. You also might see a
Gray, Eco-Wellness teacher for kindergarten through fourth grade.
bunny named Rusty being “hopped” on a leash, a pond being dug,
After completing a permaculture class last year, Gray and fel-
trees being watered, chickens being held and leaves being hauled
low Eco-Wellness teacher, Tim Ornes (fifth through eighth grades),
and spread. That’s because the public charter school’s Eco-Well-
planned the space and, along with an army of student and parent
ness program is an integral part of the kids’ educational routine. It’s
volunteers at a multi-weekend event called a Permablitz, created
also a critical way to fulfill the school’s mission of creating socially
a food forest. They dug all the berms and swales by hand and, be-
aware and confident critical-thinkers through hands-on learning.
cause access to water is an issue, built the fields on contour so that
The 2016–2017 academic year has been particularly focused on
when it rains, the swale catches the rain and the berms sponge it up.
the hands-on learning part. In fact, the hands of more than 500
After that, they planted loquats, Mexican plums, pawpaws, peach-
students are busier—and dirtier—than ever. The school moved to
es, satsuma oranges, figs, pomegranates, elderberries, asparagus,
a new campus in August of 2016, leaving behind huge gardens of
artichokes and blueberries. Then, later that year, with a grant from
rich soil that had been nurtured for more than a decade. So in their
TreeFolks, they planted a whopping 32 more trees around campus.
“We keep telling the kids, You have to feed the soil before you can expect the soil to feed you.” —Thora Gray
(Above) Left to right: Amaru Marsee-O’Neil (holding Rusty the rabbit); Tim Ornes; Ayda Ornes; August Moon Marsee-O’Neil; Thora Gray; Bea Billig; L.J. Kelly; Kason Kelly. (Bottom lef)t: L.J. Kelly. (Bottom right) Left to right: August Moon Marsee-O’Neil; Bea Billig; Ayda Ornes.
Aside from the food forest, another major endeavor this year has been preparing their fields to grow food. But that can’t happen overnight. “We keep telling the kids, You have to feed the soil before you can expect the soil to feed you,” says Gray. “There’s no way you’re gonna get food out of caliche soil.” So the kids have planted cover crops, such as buckwheat with radishes, cowpeas, fava beans (“beans bring nitrogen to the soil”) and oats. A donation of thousands of bags of leaves and wood mulch is also helping feed the soil. “We can promote worms coming and mushrooms growing,” Gray says. “It’s a great lesson plan, too,” adds Ornes. “You, haul that there, and You, haul this here,” he says with a laugh, pointing to several nearby students. But just because the fields aren’t yet ready to yield carrots and strawberries and other kid-faves, that didn’t stop the Eco-Wellness team—or even slow it down. Ornes and his middle-schoolers planted gardens in straw bales instead—cherry tomatoes, marigolds, lettuces, peppers, chard, arugula and more—with the goal of harvesting the veggies to share in a salad bar at the end of the year. “The bales had a lot of grass in them, so we had a competition to see who could pull the most grass,” says eighth-grader L.J. “Mr. Tim offered us a prize, because we didn’t really want to pick grass.” Ornes begs to differ. “They
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hidden natural spring was discovered when the school’s septic sys-
With help from these same reluctant-weeder middle school students, the second- and third-graders dug a pond this year after a tem was being installed. “When we started digging, the water just started rushing in,” explains third-grader August. “And now, there’s frogs and tadpoles and fish.” Still another project has been to plan, design and build a rain gar-
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“The kids learned about impervious cover and how pollutants run off with the water,” says Gray. August chimes in, “Sometimes in math class, we get to go out and sit by the rain garden and do math.” In fact, students did some impressive math; together, they found the
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area and perimeter of the rain garden and made a map of the whole space. Bea, a second-grader who also worked on the project, says that the rain garden was her favorite part of the year. “It was fun digging it up. It’s like a mini-pond. Kami [another student] saw a frog.”
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den to prevent rainwater from running off into neighboring fields.
These remarkable accomplishments haven’t happened without their share of challenges, though. Wild hogs (or armadillos, they can’t be sure) dug up the food forest last winter. This past spring, high winds picked up the toolshed and threw it into a tree. But these incidents are also learning opportunities. Ornes installed a
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wild game camera so students could spot and identify wild hogs, coyotes, bobcats, raccoons and opossums. And on hikes every Friday, the students learn about different kinds of scat and what they contain (berries, hair and bones, oh my!).
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The keys to the Eco-Wellness program’s success, says Gray, lie with the school community. “We couldn’t have done this without the parents and the kids. It’s not like the parents set this up and then the kids have a tiny garden lesson; kids are very active in all of this. They’re learning how to have real-world negotiations with each other—how to move a wheelbarrow together, how to communicate effectively, to have nice words with each other—all when they’re not sitting at a desk, where they’re doing real-world stuff. And as a result, they’ll have tomatoes and carrots!”
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COOKS at home
JEANINE DONOFRIO AND JACK MATHEWS BY K AT H L E E N T H O R N B E R RY • P H OTO G RA P H Y BY M E L A N I E G R I Z Z E L
ectangular white subway tiles wall the modern kitchen of
it cover to cover. I mean…that’s how far back I had to start! It was
Jeanine Donofrio and Jack Mathews. Clean black lines—
remedial photography at first.”
the edges of appliances and shelves, the typescript of
In the five years that Love and Lemons has existed, the site has
cookbooks—carve out this crisp, bright white and create a bold
steadily surpassed the competition with its combination of elegant
background for the vibrant fresh vegetables that exude an almost
design, gorgeous photography and Donofrio’s fresh approach to
hypnotic intensity. Scattered here and there are the muted tones
everyday meal preparation. After claiming The Austin Chronicle’s
of dun-colored pottery, a pale-blue mixer and rows of pastel glass-
Top 10 Local Food Blogs number one spot in 2013, Love and Lem-
ware that soften and adjust the overall feel of the room to a sooth-
ons went on to earn one of Saveur’s Best Cooking Blog awards in
ing domestic haven. The space so nearly resembles the graphic
2014. A healthy amount of national press and industry accolades
design of the couple’s award-winning food blog, Love and Lem-
later, the duo scored a book deal with Avery Books, an imprint of
ons, that it’s clear the same sensibilities created both.
Penguin/Random House. After a year in the making, the cookbook
Donofrio is the designer of the blog, as well as its culinary
“Love and Lemons” came out in early 2016 and was immediately
powerhouse, but she didn’t start out that way. For a long time,
named one of the spring’s most exciting cookbooks by Epicurious.
she thought she hated cooking. Her job as a professional graphic
Something of a perfectionist, Donofrio has always honed and
designer was often a stress-filled nightmare; she worked multiple
refined her recipes before presenting them to the public, but she’s
projects at a time under punishing deadlines, so coming home
quick to insist that every recipe is flexible, and indeed, nearly
to the chore of making dinner seemed overwhelming. However,
every recipe in the cookbook includes variations. On that note,
as work pressures continually increased, she found herself called
she advises readers to avoid going to the store with a list of ingre-
more and more to the kitchen and to the silent, meditative chop-
dients in order to rigidly adhere to a recipe. “Instead,” she says,
ping of vegetables for restorative calm at the end of the day. Her
“learn to cook with what you have on hand. Buy vividly beautiful
creativity blossomed in this private, low-pressure refuge. “I found
fruits and vegetables in season, and learn to make fabulous meals
myself leaving work at four to come home and cook,” she says. “It
with them by combining color and flavor in simple, satisfying
dawned on me: This feels more creative than what I’m doing at
ways.” On any given day, Donofrio begins meal ideas by follow-
work! [My husband and I] thought of it as ‘my cooking kick.’ After
ing her own advice and looking through her biweekly CSA box
about a year, it struck me: I don’t think this kick is going to end!”
from Farmhouse Delivery. Today’s meal of savory sweet potato
A major problem with this kind of creativity, though, is that
tacos with tangy apple-radish slaw is a perfect example of her
once you’ve eaten it, it’s gone. Donofrio decided that she wanted
using what’s available. “I came up with this slaw when I ran out of
to document her cooking adventures, “so at least there would be
things to do with radishes!” she says. “Every week my box came
SOMETHING!” She combined her design skills and her newfound
with gorgeous watermelon radishes…I just had to come up with
love of cooking with Mathews’ computer know-how, and began
more things to do with them! The sweetness of apples seemed
publishing Love and Lemons online in 2011. Mathews also signed
like a perfect complement to their peppery-ness.”
on as co-photographer. “When we decided to do the blog for real,”
Watching Donofrio and Mathews prepare the meal—the calming
he says, “I went and found my camera’s owner’s manual and read
rhythm of the heavy knife carefully sculpting apples and radishes
Affirmation w a l l
a r t
into matchsticks, cubing sweet potatoes and avocado, slicing limes and chopping cilantro—casts a contemplative aura over the scene. And before long, warm corn tortillas are filled with crisp, hot sweet potato cubes and topped with the lightly sweet, refreshingly cold slaw. It’s the kind of meal you can’t wait to re-create at home, and chances are you probably already have all of the ingredients on hand.
JEANINE DONOFRIO’S “WHEN RADISH-RICH” SWEET POTATO TACOS WITH APPLE-RADISH SLAW Serves 4 For the tacos: 2 medium sweet potatoes, peeled, cubed 2 t. extra-virgin olive oil ½ t. chili powder Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste 8 corn tortillas, warmed or grilled 1 avocado, diced Lime wedges, for serving
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For the slaw: 8 to 10 small red radishes, sliced into small matchsticks 4 scallions, chopped small 1 Gala apple, sliced into small matchsticks Juice of 1 lime ½ t. extra-virgin olive oil ½ c. chopped cilantro Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste Heat the oven to 400° and line a large baking sheet with parchment paper. Toss the sweet potatoes with the olive oil, chili powder and salt and pepper, then roast in the oven until golden brown—about 25 minutes. While the sweet potatoes roast, combine the radishes, scallions, apple, lime juice, olive oil, cilantro and salt and pepper in a bowl. Toss to coat, then chill for 30 minutes. After chilling, season the slaw with additional salt and pepper, if needed. Assemble each taco with sweet potatoes, slaw and diced avocado. Serve with lime wedges.
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ANDREW BROOKS BY RAC H E L J O H N SO N • P H OTO G RA P H Y BY D UST I N M EY E R
ven though Chef Andrew Brooks is a fan of the kale-draped
at every meal. Innovating a salad dressing to include home-fer-
diet that much of our city espouses, he could do without
mented vinegars or transforming peppers into hot sauce are di-
that particular four-letter word: “diet.” Brooks established
verse ways to introduce macrobiotics in a way that doesn’t feel
Spirited Food Company in 2007 and purposefully avoided associa-
forced or repetitive.
tion with the word for its often restrictive, negative connotations,
Of course, Brooks knows that all of this information can be
opting instead for a more approachable description of a simple,
daunting and overwhelming, especially if you’re not feeling well,
balanced eating program that nurtures the body and promotes
so he employs personal consultations and cooking classes to show
healing. And since starting the company, he’s found the perfect
people how to incorporate the appropriate nutrient-rich, healing
partnership to share his philosophy: doctors and their patients.
foods into their culinary rotation. To minimize the shock, he starts
To say Brooks is passionate about his mission is a gross under-
with a person’s established foundation of food and then elevates
statement—he says he can even pinpoint the exact moment his pas-
it nutritionally, little by little, for a more successful result. Instead
sion ignited to a single bite of fresh broccoli bought at a farmers
of completely taking away so-called “bad foods,” Brooks shifts and
market in San Marcos. “I literally felt my whole body just wake up,”
adjusts beloved food items to maintain an interest in eating well
he says. “That was the first time I consciously ate something, and I
without scaring people away with a difficult experience. “I can
knew that what I was studying worked.”
tweak meals that they’re already making at home to make them
Brooks began his education with a degree in food and nutrition
more nutritionally dense,” he says. “And I’ve found that that is a
at Southwest Texas State (now Texas State University) and later as
highly impactful way because that’s something that they’re going
a chef at Le Cordon Bleu in Sydney, Australia. He credits his suc-
to stick with…showing people that you don’t have to change every-
cess in school to his first job at a local sandwich shop that provided
thing in order to eat well.” For example, mac-and-cheese is often
a perspective about food that many of his classmates lacked. “[My
brought up as a comfort food that clients want to hold onto. Brooks
classmates] subsisted on Doritos and Diet Coke,” he says. “Mean-
encourages these clients to continue to enjoy the dish, but to sim-
while, I would go home from class and try to learn how to cook in
ply scale back—eat a smaller portion and avoid toppings like bacon
a super nutritional way.”
or extra cheese. Also adding green vegetables on the side presents
He expanded his knowledge base by studying the methods of
a better balance.
chemist Linus Pauling, who championed the role of food in curing
Recently, Brooks developed and implemented a 12-week pro-
disease. In the early 1990s, Pauling used his findings to treat pa-
gram focused on nutrition and healing foods for diabetic patients,
tients diagnosed with diabetes, heart disease and hypertension by
where hands-on meal planning and preparation allow participants
addressing the foods they consumed. It was this underlying prin-
to take better control of their health. “It’s so meaningful,” he says,
ciple that helped Brooks develop as a chef and nutritionist, and in
“[when] I get these stories from families who tell me, You gave us
2008, led him to work with Central Texas Food Bank, Breast Cancer
so much more information than the hospital, and now we’re able to
Services of Austin and the Entrepreneurs Foundation of Central
cook at home and know what we’re doing. We’re no longer confused.”
Texas to help launch a pilot program meal service for women undergoing chemotherapy for breast cancer.
It could be a while before kale finally steps out of the food limelight in Austin, but rest assured that when it does, Chef Brooks will
Brooks incorporates five components into healthful eating:
still be going strong as an active force in the healthy, healing food
Balance; local and organic; green vegetables; bone broth; and fer-
movement—encouraging everyone to become more aware of food
mented foods. The goal is to keep these pillar principles in mind
and its pronounced effects on our body and health.
with every meal, but also to encompass variety. For example, “fermented foods” can mean more than simply eating sauerkraut
For more information, visit spiritedfood.com or call 512-844-1833. EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM
BLACK COD POACHED IN GREEN TEA BROTH Courtesy of Chef Andrew Brooks Serves 6 6 4–6 oz. black cod fillets 4 oz. tamari, divided 28 oz. water 1 c. bonito flakes 6 bags of green tea or 5 T. loose green tea 6 kaffir lime leaves Napa cabbage (or any steamed green vegetable) 2 oz. chopped fresh cilantro 2 oz. thinly sliced scallions Heat the oven to 450°. Rub 1 tablespoon of the tamari into each piece of cod and set aside. In a pan, bring the water to a boil then turn off the heat. Add the bonito flakes, tea, lime leaves and the remaining tamari. Infuse for 3 minutes, then strain the broth into a clean baking dish—discarding the solids. Put the cod into the warm broth, place in the oven and bake for 8 to 10 minutes per each inch of thickness. Serve the fish hot over steamed Napa cabbage or any steamed green vegetable and top with the cilantro and scallions.
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formerly Capital Area Food Bank
Courtesy of Chef Andrew Brooks Serves 2–3 4 T. rendered beef tallow, olive oil or other good-quality cooking oil, divided 1 lb. ground bison or grassfed beef 8 oz. small-dice onion 2 oz. finely chopped garlic 16 oz. coarsely grated or finely choppd mushrooms (portabella, cremini, white, shiitake, etc.) 16 oz. coarsely grated or finely chopped cauliflower 16 oz. peeled and coarsely shredded sweet potato 16 oz. fresh baby spinach Himalayan pink salt or sea salt, to taste Pepper, to taste Hot sauce, for serving In a medium saucepan, heat the tallow or oil over medium-high heat. When the oil just begins to smoke, add the meat in large chunks. Turn up the heat to high and sear the meat without disturbing it until it browns. Using a spatula, turn the pieces over to brown on the second side, then add the onion to the pan. Allow the onion to sauté for 4 to 5 minutes without disturbing it, then add the garlic and mushrooms. Use a spatula to break up the chunks of meat and evenly disperse the mushrooms and garlic. Continue to sauté over high heat for 2 to 3 more minutes. Stir and continue to cook until the beef is cooked through. Remove the beef mixture to a large bowl. Add the cauliflower and sweet potato to the pan, along with the last 2 tablespoons of fat or oil. Sauté this mixture over high heat for 5 to 8 minutes—stirring once every minute until the vegetables are just cooked through. Add the baby spinach and stir continuously until all of the spinach is just wilted and incorporated. Transfer this mixture to the bowl with the beef, sprinkle with salt and pepper, to taste, and stir to combine. Serve with the hot sauce of your choice.
HEALTHY HEAT BY A M Y M CC U L LO U G H • P H OTO G RA P H Y BY J E N N A N O RT H C U T T
pice, heat, fire—some of us can’t handle even a
by looking at the cuisines of other torrid places. “Whole
touch of it in our food; others can’t get enough.
grains, vegetables first,” he says. “Not a lot of cream; not
Regardless of personal thresholds, many peo-
a lot of butter…lighter, citrusy, acidic…and, of course,
ple, including some Central Texan foodies, believe that
lots of chilies. You can eat that when it’s 110 degrees
spicy foods are actually good for us—from the “Hot
outside. They’re very healthy diets.”
Weather Food” on Lenoir’s menu, to the uber-local offerings at Dai Due, where Chef Jesse Griffiths believes that if fiery ingredients like hot peppers thrive here along with us, we should probably try to work out some kind of arrangement on the plate. Most of us know that capsaicin, a chemical compound made up of carbon, hydrogen, oxygen and nitrogen, is responsible for the burning sensation spicy foods induce. It should be noted that “spiciness,” when referring to heat, isn’t a flavor at all—it’s a sensation, like pain. We also know that it makes those of us who consume it feel good by triggering the release of endorphins. But are there other, less superficial health benefits to fiery foods? The answer depends on whom you ask, and what it is you’re eating that’s so spicy. “You’re going to sweat,” says Lenoir Chef Todd Duplechan, “which cools you down, but you also feel lighter.” He also notes that you can learn a lot from just listening to your body. “You eat a bunch of enchiladas in an air-conditioned place,” he says, “and when you leave, you feel…heavy…[like your] body is shutting down.” Lenoir’s menu links warmer weather and warmer foods by drawing on what’s available at local farmers markets (i.e., what grows well here during the hot season) and
While Lenoir’s menu is inspired by hot-climate cuisines around
out peppers is crazy.” That very argument finds some support in
the world, both Lenoir’s and Dai Due’s menus focus on things that
a Pennsylvania State University study, which found that thrill- or
grow specifically in and around Central Texas. “Hot peppers grow
sensation-seeking behavior is “strongly linked” with an affinity
in hot places for a reason,” says Chef Griffiths. “The correlation
for spicy foods. Our heat preferences might essentially be deter-
between spicy foods and the equator goes beyond a taste aesthet-
mined by how daring we are—or, some might say, how masochis-
ic; the hot pepper is a small, condensed package of vitamins and
tic. After all, spice does equal pain in a physiological sense.
When it comes to eating hot for health, the best advice—and
But is there science to back up this hot-equals-health theory?
probably the hardest to follow when consuming things we love—
Leidamarie Tirado-Lee, a spicy food enthusiast with a Ph.D. in bi-
is to use common sense and enjoy in moderation. It’s also good to
ological sciences, is quick to point out that “human health is very
note, when trying your stomach by fire, that heat comes in many
complicated,” but her investigations into the topic point to more
forms—from healthier options like veggie-studded curries, to
good news than bad. Spicy foods are thought to have the ability to
greasy, hot sauce-slathered fried chicken. So choose wisely, and
protect against cholesterol buildup and possibly even kill cancer
may your diet hurt so good…and do you some good, too.
cells, plus they’re packed with antimicrobial and antioxidant properties. Many who claim such benefits point to a Chinese study published in the British Medical Journal (BMJ) that found an inverse correlation between “habitual consumption of spicy foods” and mortality. (Other behavioral factors must always be considered, however; that study also found the inverse correlation to be stron-
CHILE “PETIN” VINEGAR Courtesy of Jesse Griffiths Makes just under 2 cups
ger in those who didn’t drink alcohol.) Another study published in Physiology & Behavior found that cayenne pepper can help with weight management by increasing body temperature, called thermogenesis, while suppressing appetite. The same researchers also found cayenne to be more effective in those less familiar with it— all the more reason for the uninitiated to turn up the heat! Dr. Will Mitchell of Austin’s Merritt Wellness Center—which specializes in East Asian medicine and nutrition (in collaboration with Western medicine)—mentions a variety of health benefits related to spicy foods, from alleviating allergies and excessive phlegm to treating cardiac patients suffering from angina. “It opens up circulation everywhere,” he says. Mitchell also notes that vegetables in the pepper family are rich in vitamin C and bioflavonoids,
This condiment is ubiquitous in older households anywhere south of I-10, and is used to dress just about everything, but especially cooked greens. The addition of vodka is a micro-regional variation. Chile pequin is commonly referred to as “chile petin,” a mishmash probably derived from “chiltepin,” the native wild chile of the region. 1½ c. white-wine vinegar ¼ c. chopped chile pequin peppers 1 garlic clove, sliced 3 T. vodka Combine all ingredients in a glass jar or cruet and age for a couple of weeks before using.
which work together to support circulation and treat inflammatory conditions such as arthritis. Dr. Daphne Miller, author of “The Jungle Effect: Healthiest Diets from Around the World,” also sings the anti-inflammatory praises of certain spices. She writes that turmeric, for instance (which is more biting than hot), gives “phar-
STRAWBERRY SAMBAL Courtesy of Todd Duplechan Makes about 4 cups
maceutical-grade anti-inflammatories a run for their money.” For the greatest health benefits, Mitchell recommends eating whole peppers—that way, you get the “bioflavonoid-rich pithy part inside. There is a lot less benefit in a pepper that has been cored out,” he says—citing roasted shishitos as a personal favorite. Another pungent food Mitchell recommends is radishes, which he says have “incredible health benefits,” such as detoxification of lymph and liver cells as well as increased production of antioxidant enzymes, which counteract the damaging effects of oxidation in tissue. Mitchell does caution against overeating hot peppers (especially big-time burners like ghost peppers), which can cause gastrointestinal pain and night sweats. Likewise, Austin Gastroenterology lists spicy foods as likely to exacerbate ulcers and acid reflux, though neither is said to be caused by them. Also, Tirado-Lee points out that “many scientists believe chili peppers evolved to make mammals less likely to eat them,” a fact that could quite sensibly be used as evidence that “actively seek[ing] 36
Lenoir serves this spicy Indonesian condiment with pecan hush puppies, but it would also complement grilled chicken or vegetables. It’s both seasonal and versatile—meaning it can be re-envisioned depending on what’s fresh. 5 lb. strawberries, hulled and halved 48 oz. sugar (approximately 6 ¾ c.) Lemon juice, to taste ¼ c. minced ginger 1 /8 c. minced fermented or dried chilies Salt, to taste Macerate the strawberries in the sugar overnight, then cook the mixture down over low heat until it reaches a jam-like consistency. Add the lemon juice, to taste, then puree in a food processor. In a separate pan, sweat the ginger and chilies, then mix them into the strawberry puree. Season the final mixture with salt, to taste. Use right away or store in the refrigerator in an airtight container for up to a week.
“Hot peppers grow in hot
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condensed package of vitamins and healthful properties.” —Jesse Griffiths PAN-ROASTED SERRANO PEPPERS WITH CREAMY FIRE-HYDRANT SAUCE
1500 South Lamar Blvd 512.473.2211 barlataaustin.com
Serves 2–4 For the sauce: ¾ c. plain yogurt ¼ c. mayonnaise 2 T. Dijon mustard (start with less and adjust to taste) 2 t. Sriracha (or other hot sauce) 1 t. grated white onion Hefty squeeze of lemon juice Coarse salt and fresh-ground pepper, to taste Chopped cilantro, for garnish In a bowl, mix together the first five ingredients. Taste the mixture, then add lemon juice, salt and pepper, to your liking. Cover and place the bowl in the refrigerator. This is best made ahead of time so it can chill for a day or so while the flavors meld. Add the chopped cilantro before serving. For the peppers: 1 T. olive oil About a dozen serrano (or shishito or padrón) peppers, with a slit cut in the tip of each pepper Coarse salt, to taste Lemon wedges, for serving Heat the olive oil in a heavy pan (a cast-iron skillet works great) until very hot but not smoking; water should readily sizzle. Add the peppers and cook until blistered and at least as black as they are green, carefully turning with tongs to darken all sides—about 10 minutes. Transfer to a serving plate, sprinkle with salt and squeeze lightly with lemon juice. Serve with the chilled sauce.
CRAFT CIDER TA P R O O M N O W O P E N
AUSTIN HOURS AND DETAILS AT:
Joe Basel with son Hamish, daughter Daphne and wife Hannah.
NATURAL CHAMPION FARM BY DA N I E L M E N N EGA • P H OTO G RA P H Y BY A N DY SA M S
t’s a sunny, breezy Friday evening
into sight. Basel explains that Natural
in the countryside near Coupland,
Champion Farm follows a landmark an-
Texas. A long gravel driveway leads
imal rotation practice hailed by farmers
from the road to a farmyard circled by
and animal advocates alike. Daily reloca-
barns, tractors and other farm fixtures,
tion of all animals presents major chal-
while meadows and black-tilled fields
lenges, but it means cows, pigs and chick-
complete the agrarian views.
ens can experience and thrive on fresh
Soon, cars turn in and park and their
new terrain. “That yields quality,” he says.
occupants stroll to a large greenhouse. To-
Citing studies and theories that sup-
night is the inaugural farm dinner at Natural
port his ideals, Basel refers to environ-
Champion Farm, and host and farm owner
mentalist, farmer and lecturer Joel Salatin
Joe Basel greets his guests. He’s proud and
of the famous Polyface Farms as his “spirit
eager to share his seasonal bounty.
animal on this kind of stuff. Farmers who
The event’s wide-ranging menu includes
do this can’t just round off the corners
and say, ‘Well, we’re going to use different
smoked chicken with brown butter,
kinds of sprays. We’ll make the plants so
mushrooms and herbs; char siu banh mi;
bugs don’t want to eat them any more,’ and
caramel kimchi and blackberry cobbler,
that somehow fixes it.”
just to name a few. Basel partnered with
Basel looks favorably on farming
several fellow farmers to create the
before pesticides and confinements.
menu and paired the dishes with select beers from Osmo’s Daughter Brewing Company in nearby Elgin.
“Nature was fine for a long time,” he says. “Since 1950 or so, we’ve completely screwed up the food
The 100-acre Natural Champion Farm was established in 2016 on
system. We just need to rewind 65 years and then add some tech-
land that was originally one of the first organic farms in Texas—
nology. You saw my son, Hamish, running around outside,” he
designated so in 1980. Today, Basel, his brother Jon and an intimate
continues. “You saw his toys in the field. Not a single farm [sell-
staff of family and friends handle all farm chores. Some care daily
ing to] grocery stores can have kids running around. It’s danger-
for 2,000-plus cattle, pigs, broilers, laying hens and turkeys, while
ous, toxic, unsafe, illegal.” Philosophizing aside, Basel thinks his
others work farmers market booths and fulfill fresh and frozen food
proof is in the eating. “I want to raise the best food in the world.”
orders to area restaurants and residents. Always in demand are the
Back at the greenhouse, the call rings out: “Let’s all get seated so we
farm’s colorful assortment of non-GMO veggies such as corn, car-
can get eatin’!” Guests find chairs at white-clothed tables surround-
rots, okra, tomatoes, peppers and more.
ed by tall, white aeroponic towers with bushy arrays of young kale
Since dinner’s not quite ready, Basel offers a tour of the farm.
and lettuce while rustic chandeliers sway overhead. Chef Michael
Over the rumbling ATV engine, he voices what matters most to
Rutherford of Aspen, Colorado, steps up, speaking passionately to the
him as a farmer. “The major problem with commercial farming is
crowd. “Cooking for all of you was easy,” he begins. “The ingredients
it lets animals live in their filth,” he says. “How can you jam 30,000
did it all…the eggs that were laid this week, the meat, all the sauc-
cows into a tiny pen after seeing them run around in the grass?
es, all the emulsifications are from right here.” He points at Joe, his
Would we like living in four feet of our excrement? Modern chem-
wife, Hannah, and Hamish. “This is the next level of farming,” he says.
ical farming doesn’t even make money. And its practices threaten
“This is food done right. Y’all need to go out and choose this food.”
farming itself. It doesn’t make sense.” The tour goes on, through both tillage and greenbelt. With pronounced front hitches and rear wheels, the chicken coops come
Then the first course rolls out—clearly the start of a delicious evening and well worth a drive to the country. Find more at naturalchampionfarm.com or call 512-373-9064. EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM
TOP THAT by MARY BRYCE photography by
ast year, my uncle made roasted chicken tacos doused with a piquant, bright-green chimichurri sauce. That simple condiment completely transformed an otherwise one-note dish and
was nothing short of a juicy, tangy, quietly spicy revelation. Chimichurri sounds exotic—and it’s fun to say—but even though it hails from Argentine cuisine and tastes amazingly complex, it’s actually a snap to make. I make it all the time now. It’s most often served with meats, but I’m known to go rogue and spoon it over scrambled eggs or sautéed greens. The revelatory properties of specialty condiments, relishes, toppings and finishing sauces like chimichurri—those additional bursts of flavors and textures that complement, elevate and even transform a dish several times while you’re eating it depending on how and when they’re added—are a well-known hat trick in the culinary world. But they’re far too often relegated to restaurants, or bought premade from the grocery store despite the fact that they’re satisfying and inexpensive to make at home.
CHIMICHURRI Makes about 2½ cups This sauce is traditionally served with grilled, roasted, braised, broiled or sautéed meats, but works just as well on dishes such as scrambled eggs and sautéed greens. ¼ c. red wine vinegar 1 t. salt, or to taste 3 to 4 garlic cloves 2 /3 c. chopped fresh cilantro 2 /3 c. chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley 2–3 T. fresh oregano 2 /3 c. extra-virgin olive oil 2 t. dried crushed red pepper Puree all of the ingredients in a food processor until evenly blended. Sauce will keep, refrigerated, for up to 1 week. Bring to room temperature before serving.
Classic aioli, for instance, is nothing more than egg yolks emulsified with oil, salt, garlic and lemon, but the result is a wondrous dollop or dip of decadence that’s much greater than the sum of its parts. Chef Josh Williams of Texas French Bread likes to serve his housemade aioli with steak frites—a rich Texas Akaushi top sirloin cozied next to a cluster of crispy, thick-cut fries—as well as with certain toasts like anchovy toast. “Spread about a tablespoon of aioli over the toast once it’s cooled, then lay out Ortiz anchovies, roasted and sliced mild red peppers along with shaved radish and cilantro and/or parsley. If I have it, I’ll lightly dress some arugula with Maldon salt, nice olive oil and lemon juice to put on top.” Some condiments are just the right blend of tangy-sweet, like La Tavola’s Chef Will Packwood’s admittedly time-consuming (but oh-so-worth-it) apple mostarda typically found in northern Italian cuisine. Traditionally, the sauce accompanied meat dishes, but Packwood says it’s excellent paired with cheeses such as crescenza, pecorino, montasio, Parmigiano-Reggiano, taleggio or fontina. “I like the sweetness coupled with the savory mustard bite,” he says.
WASABI SALSA Courtesy of Leanne Valenti Makes about 2 cups Valenti says this wasabi salsa pairs well with super umami foods such as brisket, sautéed shiitakes and toasted nori. ½ c. raw sunflower seeds ½ bunch parsley 1 /3 c. lemon juice ¼ c. water ½ T. sugar ½ t. kosher salt 1½ T. wasabi oil, or to taste 1 c. neutral oil (safflower, grapeseed etc.) Put the sunflower seeds in a small pot, cover with water and bring to a boil. Strain and put the blanched seeds into a blender along with the parsley, lemon juice, water, sugar and salt. Puree until the mixture is a creamy, smooth consistency. Continue to run the blender and add the oils, to emulsify.
Packwood also shares his time-honored caper-, lemon- and herb-spiked salsa verde—-a unique condiment that takes advantage of gloriously rich tuna belly. He likes to serve this salsa tonnato on top of thinly sliced cold poached veal, with crudités or simply on top of a slice of good crusty bread. And then, of course, we Texans love our beloved splashes of hot sauces that come in myriad forms and flavors. Chef Sonya Coté of Eden East shares her coveted recipe for a fermented meltyour-face carrot-habanera sauce that’s good on just about anything, and Chef Leanne Valenti, owner of Bento Picnic, shares a wasabi salsa that’s not only vegan and gluten-free, but pairs beautifully with “super umami foods such as brisket, sautéed shiitakes and toasted nori.” Also, Chef Jam Sanitchat of Thai Fresh invites us to make her unusual shrimp relish that’s delicious atop omelets or in lemongrass soup, and her seafood dipping sauce—perfect for seafood of all kinds or as a dressing for a grilled beef salad. Whether it’s a dollop, slather, schmear, slick or dip, here’s to that little “sumpin’-sumpin’” that adds that additional layer of mmmm to foods, takes a dish over the top and makes it that much better.
APPLE MOSTARDA Courtesy of Will Packwood Serves 4 Chef Packwood suggests serving this classic tangy-sweet sauce with cooked meats or cheeses such as crescenza, pecorino, montasio, Parmigiano-Reggiano, taleggio or fontina. 1 lb. Granny Smith apples, peeled, cored and sliced thinly 8 oz. granulated sugar 1 T. ground mustard powder In a stainless steel bowl, combine the apples and sugar. Allow the apples to macerate for 24 hours. Drain the liquid that collects from the apples and simmer it over low heat until thick—about 1 hour. Add the reduced liquid back to the apples and allow the apples to rest for an additional 24 hours. Repeat the draining and simmering process—adding the reduced liquid back to the apples again and allowing them to rest for another 24 hours. The next day, add the mustard and simmer all of the ingredients in a small pot for 15 minutes. Cool and serve, or store in the refrigerator for up to 7 days. EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM
CLASSIC GARLIC AIOLI
Courtesy of Josh Williams Makes about 2 cups
Courtesy of Will Packwood Makes about 2 cups
Aioli is a time-honored dip and spread—it’s especially good slathered on a juicy burger or served alongside crispy-fried vegetables for dipping.
Chef Packwood likes to serve this sauce on top of thinly sliced veal cutlets, with crudités, or simply on a slice of good bread.
4 egg yolks 6 garlic cloves, minced or grated 1 c. Texas olive oil Water 1 oz. lemon juice (Meyer, if available) Maldon sea salt, to taste In a bowl, whisk together the yolks and the garlic. Slowly whisk in the olive oil—adding a tiny bit of water if it starts to get too thick. Slowly whisk in a steady stream of lemon juice and continue to whisk until the aioli has thickened and emulsified. Add salt, to taste.
SEAFOOD DIPPING SAUCE Courtesy of Jam Sanitchat Makes 1 cup Chef Sanitchat uses this condiment mainly as a dipping sauce for seafood of all kinds, but she also uses it as a dressing for a grilled beef salad. 8 fresh red or green Thai chilies, minced 8 garlic cloves, minced 6 T. fish sauce ½ c. lime juice 2 t. sugar 2 t. honey Using a mortar and pestle, crush the chilies and garlic into a coarse paste. Add the fish sauce, lime juice, sugar and honey. Alternatively, you could put all of the ingredients into a food processor or blender and blend for about 10 seconds. Will last in the refrigerator for about a week.
SALSA VERDE Courtesy of Will Packwood Makes about 1 cup Chef Packwood likes to drizzle this finishing sauce over chicken, fish or focaccia. ½ c. minced flat-leaf parsley leaves 2 T. minced fresh oregano leaves 2 T. minced fresh mint leaves 3 anchovy filets, minced 1 garlic clove, minced 1 T. minced capers Lemon zest from half a lemon 1 serrano pepper, seeded, minced 1 /3 c. extra-virgin olive oil Salt, to taste In a stainless-steel bowl, combine the ingredients and stir to incorporate. Serve immediately or store in the refrigerator for up to 3 days. 42
5 oz. tuna belly packed in olive oil (such as Ventresca), drained, crumbled 2 hard-boiled eggs, peeled, roughly chopped 1 T. capers, drained, roughly chopped 1 garlic clove, peeled, roughly chopped 2 T. finely minced flat-leaf parsley 2 anchovy fillets, finely minced Lemon zest from 1 lemon, finely minced Juice from 1 lemon ½ c. extra-virgin olive oil Salt and pepper, to taste Combine the first 8 ingredients in a blender and process on medium speed. Slowly add the olive oil. Taste and adjust seasoning, as needed. Serve immediately or store in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.
SPRINGDALE FARM CARROTHABANERO HOT SAUCE Courtesy of Sonya Coté Makes about 4–5 cups Chef Coté says this hot sauce complements unlimited dishes, such as “smoked meats, eggs, roasted vegetables…you can add it to sauces for a kick, in marinades, soups…anything!” 3 lb. fresh habanero chili peppers, stemmed 4 large carrots, grated 2 c. water 8 green garlic cloves, peeled, minced 2 T. Texas cane sugar 2 t. unrefined sea salt 1 c. kimchi juice (left from the jar or your previous batch, or substitute with water) 1 T. apple cider vinegar Blend the chilies in a food processor. Mix together the processed chilies and the grated carrots in a glass jar or fermentation crock. Make a brine in a pot by heating the water on medium high and adding the garlic, sugar and kimchi juice (if using). Simmer until the salt and sugar have dissolved. Let the brine cool to room temp, then pour over the chili mixture. Cover the crock with cheesecloth and a rubber band, then let stand for at least 2 weeks—stirring daily. After the pepper mash has fermented, blend in a blender until smooth. Add the vinegar to balance. Note: You may need to strain the sauce to remove any whole seeds or skins.
Pound for pound, the best of Texas.
urg, Texas 78624 m ∙ email@example.com 997.4937
SHRIMP RELISH Courtesy of Jam Sanitchat Makes 4 cups
Der Küchen Laden ∙ 258 E. Main St. Fredericksburg, TX 78624 830.997.4937 firstname.lastname@example.org www.littlechef.com
Visit us at 15894 US Hwy 290 E. Stonewall, Texas 78671
Ping-pong ball-size scoop of deseeded tamarind paste Warm water 2 c. oil 2 c. sliced shallots 1 c. sliced garlic ½ c. dried shrimp, rinsed ½ c. dried long red Thai chilies, deseeded, chopped 5 1/8-inch thick slices galangal 1 t. shrimp paste ½ c. palm sugar ½ c. tamarind water 3 T. fish sauce Make tamarind water by soaking the tamarind paste in warm water for a few minutes then, using cheesecloth, squeeze the liquid into a separate bowl (reserve the liquid). Continue this process until you have ½ cup of liquid (discard solids). Meanwhile, heat the oil in a wok or a deep cast-iron pan over medium heat. Deep-fry the shallots, garlic, dried shrimp, chilies and galangal—separately, in batches—until golden. Drain them on paper towels as you remove each from the pan. Reserve the frying oil. In a small skillet, toast the shrimp paste for a few minutes until fragrant. Blend the fried mixture with the toasted shrimp paste in a food processor. Add some of the frying oil (up to 1 cup) to moisten the mixture as it blends. Place the mixture into a saucepan, add the palm sugar, tamarind water and fish sauce and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer until quite thick—stirring regularly to prevent burning. The resulting relish should be sweet, sour and salty with a little bit of heat. If you would like it hotter, add some small fresh Thai chilies along with the dried big chilies during the frying stage.
SPICY COCONUT-CASHEW RELISH Makes about 2 cups
August 26-27 and September 2-3 Wine Tasting Annual Events~ Wine Club Private Events ~ Library Tasting Hours: Monday - Thursday, 10 a.m. – 5 p.m. Friday & Saturday, 10 a.m. - 6 p.m. Sunday, Noon – 6 p.m.
www.beckervineyards.com 830-644-2681 Directions: 11 miles east of Fredericksburg, 3 miles west of Stonewall, off US Hwy 290 at Jenschke Lane.
Delicious on simple cooked noodles splashed with toasted sesame oil, this relish is also stellar over steamed rice or as a sandwich condiment. 1 heaping c. cashews 1 c. unsweetened, shredded coconut 1 heaping T. grated ginger 1 jalapeño pepper, minced 2 garlic cloves, minced 2 T. tamari sauce 1–2 t. Sriracha, or hot sauce of your choice 1 c. chopped scallions 1 c. chopped cilantro Juice of 1 lime 2 T. neutral oil Toast the cashews and coconut separately in a 350° oven until lightly browned—watching closely. Put the first 7 ingredients in a food processor and pulse to blend until chunky. Add the scallions and cilantro and pulse just a few times, until mixed. Add the lime juice and oil and pulse to combine. Taste and adjust seasonings.
ROCK SOLID BY J E R E M Y WA LT H E R • P H OTO G RA P H Y BY M A X WA LT H E R
oyd Messer dresses the part of a
always resisted change and development,”
retired farmer well: collared long-
she says. “Kerrville doesn’t really give a
sleeve shirt covered by denim
flip about what’s cool or trendy in other
overalls and a clean Bud Light cap. The
places, so the rest of us sort of have to
only missing parts of his uniform are
make our own cool, based on what we
the plug of tobacco under his lip and his
50-horse John Deere tractor, but that’s
To a high school kid growing up here,
only because he’s doing some business in
this was a bummer. But this is the exact
town right now. Soon, it’s mid-afternoon
reason why Kerrville has maintained a
and Messer’s errands are finished—time
relatively robust and active economic
for a last stop to get “one of them root
culture through every regional and na-
beers” at Pint & Plow Brewing Co. My
tional downturn in its history. And also
brother Jake and I partnered with Josh
why it accepts the good of outside influ-
Hare to open this craft brewery, restau-
ence without sacrificing its soul to do so.
rant, and coffee shop last year in Kerrville,
Kerrville is a rock.
and we and our staff know Messer means
Yet, like many of our seemingly sleepy
a pint of our La Madrugada Porter, which
Hill Country towns, present-day Kerrville
recently knocked Bud Light out of first
seems poised on the edge of two fronts.
place as his favorite beer. “It was the first
One system, a taproot of our western
beer I was able to drink after my last sur-
roots, is driven by independent and pas-
gery,” he says. “They poured me a little one to make sure first. I couldn’t believe how good it was.”
sionate people whose connections to one another are creating powerful lightning bolts of innovation and
We don’t put much stock in consumer analytics, but it’s a safe
creativity. The other, rolling from the urban centers, rumbles in
bet that Messer represents a common customer demographic for
with new ideas, styles and interests from outside sources. In some
us, at least for certain parts of the week. As one local official re-
places, this collision of systems has been a perfect storm for violent
cently told me in confidence: “Kerrville has more deaths each year
development that disturbs the native culture and supplants it with
than births. It’s a popular place for people to die.”
a sterile copy of a formula developed from corporate headquarters
The median age of Kerrville is 48 with roughly 50 percent of the
in another state.
population composed of retirees. By contrast, Austin’s median age
“We see more and more people visiting from other places,”
is 32 and retirees make up approximately 10 percent of the popula-
says Melissa Southern of the Kerrville restaurant Rails Cafe, a
tion. But simply calling Kerrville a “retirement community” doesn’t
long-time local favorite. “Those visiting from cities or other places
quite capture the full reality; it requires more direct language. And
often come with a more developed craving for a farm-to-table of-
that’s why, when we first pitched the idea to open a craft brewery
fering, because that’s what they’re used to.” But Southern’s motiva-
here, people who don’t live in Kerrville were quick to use some of
tion for seeking out local ingredients has never been to impress
that direct language. “It might work in Austin, but it won’t work in
the out-of-towners. “The reason we prefer sourcing local ingre-
Kerrville,” they said. “Try Fredericksburg…or Boerne.”
dients is because they taste better, are fresher, more nutritious
“Any idea new to this town will get that response,” Bridget
and look better on a plate.”
Symm says with a laugh. Symm is a fellow Kerrville resident who
One of the best places to source that freshness is the Kerrville
owns Bridget’s Basket, a vegetable farm with a brick-and-mortar
Farmer’s Market. People come to the market to catch up on local
store that also sells meats, cheeses, breads and artisan foods and
stories, ask about relatives, talk with growers and people in the
goods from local producers. She also grew up here. “Kerrville has
local food community, buy fresh foods and connect in one of the EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM
Page 45: Rails Cafe front door; this page, clockwise from above left: Pint & Plow Brewing Co. customer Loyd Messer; Josh Raymer of Bakery JoJu; Kelley Slagle of The Vinegar Joint at the Kerrville Farmerâ€™s Market; patrons enjoying the front patio of Pint & Plow Brewing Co. 46
last remaining ways that doesn’t involve a screen. One of those market-goers is Josh Raymer of Bakery JoJu, just up the road in
WHERE WILL YOU TAKE IT?
Fredericksburg. We met Raymer while connecting with other local producers who provide fresh meat, cheese and produce to our brewery’s kitchen. “I love coming to the market,” says Raymer. “There are so many passionate people that live out here, doing amazing things. In other places, they’d be rock stars, but out here, they don’t care about that. They just prefer to quietly perfect their craft, without the distractions of attention.” Raymer sees rock stars in people like Shawn and Shelly Sattler of Sunshine and Honeybee Farms, who grow heritage varieties of wheat in Doss, roughly 40 miles north of Kerrville. Raymer met them at the market and explains that he and his longtime acquaintance and fellow market-goer, James Brown of Barton Springs Mill in Dripping Springs, were looking for farmers willing to grow older and non-Plant Variety Protection (PVP) varietals of wheat. “It was the human interaction at our market that brought these adventurous souls to us,” says Raymer, “and now Shawn and Shelly have planted three test varieties that will hopefully be bread and seed wheat for the future.” These connections keep the community tight, but we all know there’s a wolf at the door. Tourism has become big business in the Hill Country, and Kerrville isn’t exempt. According to the Kerrville Chamber of Commerce, California is the second most common state of origin for those visiting Kerrville from other towns (the first is Texas). But Kerrville hasn’t yet been witness to the ex-
Instagram: #abgbcrowler | theabgb.com
plosive booms seen in neighboring Fredericksburg and especially Boerne—where “Boerne, R.I.P.” bumper stickers can be found on older ranch trucks just like Loyd Messer’s. And this is the heart of the uniqueness that Kerrville seems to possess: the ability to stand conservative, independent and steadfast, but also welcome new ideas, concepts and businesses into the fold without making too much of a fuss about it. It’s the reason we can successfully produce and sell craft beers here and enjoy farm-to-table cuisine in many places around town; the reason that no one bats an eye at The
From our farm, to your table. Handcrafted from select vineyards in the best appellations of Sonoma County, and it shows.
Vinegar Joint that sells wellness vinegar tonics and elixirs; and the reason an upscale fashion boutique was able to open downtown— ideas that might be categorized as trendy in any other part of the country, but here, it’s just neighbors working. “I like to think of Kerrville as a pioneer community,” says Kelley Slagle of The Vinegar Joint. “It’s refreshing to see a place not inundated with copies of a single idea.” As we enter our second year as the first brewery in Kerrville’s history, the challenges have transformed into a sturdy welcome mat. In a town of less than 25,000, we have almost 2,500 likes on Facebook; we’ve hosted baby showers, engagements, birthdays, staff meetings and soccer parties within our walls. There are regulars—young and old—who come in to either the coffee shop or the brewery five days a week—thanking us for giving them a place to go and for providing something that Kerrville “badly needed.” At any given time, openly gay couples, Presbyterian ministers, bikers, hipsters, tea-sippers and beer drinkers commune together under
*The Wine Advocate Robert Parker
one Kerrville roof. In towns all around us, the winds of change are picking up—will this rock hold? Our bets are on yes…in Kerrville’s own unique way.
REAL FARMERS WHO MAKE REAL WINE ©2016 Kobrand Corporation, Purchase, NY www.kobrandwineandspirits.com
what I eat and WHY
EATING RESPONSIBLY BY RO B E RT J E N S E N • P H OTO G RA P H Y BY M A RC B ROW N
young friend recently stopped by my house as I was cook-
attention to the ingredients in decent meals you eat in everyday
ing dinner—a favorite rice-and-greens dish that is simple,
restaurants, and watch friends and family who cook. Don’t worry
cheap, tasty and nutritious. I’d just started sautéing the on-
about being good at it—just cook something for yourself and eat it.
ions and garlic in some olive oil. My friend watched for a moment
At least that’s how I did it. And, at first, it wasn’t pretty. Here’s
then said, with inappropriate reverence, “I don’t know how you do
the “recipe” for the first dish I cooked: Cut a block of tofu into
that.” “How I do what?” I thought. Cut up an onion, slice a clove of
cubes and put them in a pan. Add a big can of tomato sauce. Steam
garlic, pour some oil and turn on a burner? It’s not exactly paint-
some cauliflower and, when it’s tender, throw it into the sauce.
ing a masterpiece or performing brain surgery. I likely would have
Simmer that for a while. Boil water to cook rice. Cook the rice.
made fun of my friend if not for the fact that, at one point in my
Dump the tofu-cauliflower sauce on the rice. Serve.
life, I would have found sautéing onions and garlic exotic, as well.
Okay, that’s barely cooking, and it sounds kind of nasty. But it
That evening, he and I talked about learning to cook in a world
was my first step. I can’t recall how I came up with the idea for that
of fast food and microwave meals. Human health requires eating
meal—it was probably a version of something I ordered in a restau-
healthfully, and that starts with understanding cooking, but that’s
rant—but it was edible and reasonably healthful. Along with the
not always easy in a culture that makes it convenient to eat without
vegetable, the tofu and rice made a complete protein. I also bought
cooking. Because so many of us have had so little experience with
tomato sauce without added sugar.
“real” food, it can be intimidating to cook from scratch.
I’m not, and never was, a “foodie.” At 30, my interest in cooking
Here’s some advice from experience: Don’t be intimidated by
developed not from wanting to keep up with cultural trends but
the Iron Chefs, or anything else on TV. Remember, people were
from reading critiques of industrial agriculture—where I became
cooking long before there were expensive restaurants and gourmet
aware of not only how unhealthy, but how ecologically unsustain-
cookbooks. Start with what you know and build from there. Pay
able, our food system is. That reading included Wendell Berry’s
essay, “The Pleasures of Eating.” In response to the question about what city people can do to help family farmers, Berry answers, “Eat
responsibly,” one aspect of which is to practice “the arts of kitchen
i n t i m at e DINNER TUESDAY-SUNDAY 5-10
and household” that make it possible to eat more cheaply and know more about what you’re eating. My tofu-cauliflower creation was a first step toward responsible
LUNCH TUESDAY-SATURDAY 11-2
eating—helping me get past my fear that cooking required some ability that I didn’t have and couldn’t acquire. From there, I have
BRUNCH SUNDAY 10:30-2:30
become a reasonably competent cook. Don’t look for me on the Food Network, though; I still have no interest in what I would call “fancy” cooking. I don’t fuss about making everything from scratch, and I’m too lazy to follow recipes closely. I’m a good-enough cook, though—I learn just enough about making a dish so that it tastes good enough
512.847.5700 JOBELLCAFE.COM 16920 RANCH ROAD 12 WIMBERLEY, TX
that my partner and friends will eat it. Lots of vegetables, beans and grains, and some dairy for a bit of fat and flavor. I don’t cook with meat, but I don’t object to others bringing it to the table. I’ve now been cooking for a quarter-century and it has improved not only my physical health, but also my mental health. I’m a teach-
THE LEANING PEAR H ill Country -inspired C uisine
er, and I spend a lot of my day in my head—reading, thinking, writing, talking. Cooking is one place I regularly use my hands for something other than typing, and it forces me to pay attention to my body lest I slice off a finger while cutting vegetables. But these days, I’m often very sad when I cook, too. The friend from whom I learned the most about cooking, Jim Koplin, died a few years ago,
Unique. Well Crafted. Delicious.
and every time I cook, his memory is with me. Cooking has become a very specific kind of communion, a time to review fond memories of how I learned what Jim called “peasant cooking.” In fact, the
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rice-and-greens dish I made for my young friend was one of Jim’s signature dishes: a synthesis of what he had learned not only on the Minnesota farm on which he was raised, but also what he learned about food from time spent in rural Tennessee and France. We often cook with others, and we often cook to feed others. If Jim and I had eaten together only in restaurants or at his house over microwaved frozen dinners, I doubt that he would be on my mind so often when I’m preparing and eating food. The industrial food system produces a lot of food, but it doesn’t necessarily generate or support a healthy culture or healthy people. I think Jim would be proud at how far I’ve come on the path to eating responsibly, and I hope, like me, my young visiting friend took something away from the experience.
”REMEMBERING JIM” RICE AND GREENS Serves 2–4 Sauté chopped onions—enough to make a single layer in the bottom of a regular-size sauté pan—and a bit of garlic in olive oil until soft. Season depending on mood—a combination of basil, oregano and thyme or cardamom, cumin, garam masala and curry powder. Add salt and pepper. Add a layer of cooked rice—white, brown or a combination of the two. Optional: add a layer of tofu, previously marinated in tamari and fried. Add a layer of grated cheese—basic Cheddar, Asiago, most anything would work. Finally, add a layer of greens—best is kale, but anything works. Cover the pan, increase heat and cook until the greens are wilted and the onions are starting to caramelize. EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM
GREEN CORN PROJECT
of ASPIRE and the opportunity to get families involved in growing food together.” Since approving the application, GCP has been working with
groups of volunteers to dig and plant multiple gardens at ASPIRE. Once a garden is planted, parents in the program and their kids take over its care, and Huebel visits periodically to offer tips on improving soil health and what and how to plant, water and weed.
BY R AC H E L M U R RAY
“Many of our parents gardened back in their home countries, but need to learn about growing here in Central Texas,” says Garza-Weatherspoon. “We do a spring and summer garden, have a big
harvest and then prepare food. We let the kids take some of the iteracy training and organic gardening might seem an unlikely
pairing, but for Green Corn Project (GCP) and Communities
Recently, ASPIRE has started working with a group of families
In Schools of Central Texas’ ASPIRE Family Literacy Program, it’s
who wanted to start a community garden but didn’t have space
turned out to be a match made in nonprofit heaven.
in their apartment complex. Huebel and Garza-Weatherspoon de-
Located on the grounds just behind Travis High School, ASPIRE
cided to create 12 new 4-by-4-foot organic garden beds on the
strives to improve literacy in the community by focusing on the
program’s property so each family would have a plot of their own.
whole family. “One of our main goals is to get parents involved
GCP provides the volunteer labor, tools, plants and seeds to help
in their children’s education,” says Oddett Garza-Weatherspoon,
each of the families get started on their garden plots.
ASPIRE’s adult education coordinator. In this same vein, the part-
So far, the families are making good use of the gardens.
nership with GCP began two years ago when Garza-Weatherspoon
“They’ve been sharing the small gardens and preparing dishes
wanted to encourage her literacy students and their families to
at ASPIRE,” says Huebel. While sharing the work and the meals,
make more healthful food choices. She thought the best way to ac-
they’re also sharing their newly acquired language and literacy
complish this was through planting a garden.
skills as they compare notes on weed pulling, soil preparations
When Garza-Weatherspoon applied for a GCP garden, Pro-
and insect control.
gram Coordinator David Huebel jumped at the chance. “[The ap-
For information on how to volunteer or make a donation to
plication] excited me,” he says, “because of the community aspect
Green Corn Project, please visit greencornproject.org
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MAMA CARE AND POSTPARTUM WELLNESS BY KATE PAYNE • PHOTOGRAPHY BY JO ANN SANTANGELO
gave birth to our first baby earlier this year. In spite of check-
birth, the female body (as well as mind and spirit) requires several
ing things off my lists—preparing nursing baskets, assembling
additional months to heal and allow Mama to begin to feel like her-
the items requested by the midwives, installing the car seat,
self again. Many friends mentioned that the milestones for Baby—6
sorting hand-me-downs, lining up a meal tree—nothing really
weeks, 12 weeks, 6 months—often feel like milestones for Mama,
prepared me for such a life-altering event. As I made room for
too, turning the corner on the new-baby mania that envelops the
this new life growing inside of me, a wise friend and doula told
household and gaining back a bit more sense of self. A huge mile-
me Inanna’s story—the ancient tale of the goddess’s journey to
stone for me was 12 weeks, when my baby began to fit into more
the underworld and back, where birth is interwoven with death
of a pattern that I understood and we enjoyed a bit more routine
as some parts of our maiden selves are laid to rest, while others
and predictability. As I continue to make my way through the ex-
bloom with new life and purpose. I’ve been thinking about this
tended postpartum period, I find wellness during this time revolves
story a lot while I recover from my own journey.
around two bright stars: community and nourishment.
While the postpartum period officially spans six weeks after
We need community more than ever during the early months of EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM
our babies’ lives—fellow mamas, our own mamas, new mamas like ourselves, our friends, neighbors and colleagues. Say yes to help of all kinds, but set boundaries and parameters for how people might do this. Let people bring food, wash dishes and manage the inevitable stages of laundry that repeat so often with new babies. Let them hold the baby for the duration of a hot shower or power nap. Find other mamas who are going through the same stages and who can relate to these new manifestations of daily life. And then there’s body nourishment; we need it in all its forms during this time. Try to incorporate probiotics like fermented foods and yogurt or kefir; add trace minerals to boost hydration, especially during the early weeks of breastfeeding; drink herbal-infusion teas and find tinctures of tonifying herbs, such as dandelion, burdock, nettle and hawthorn, which are blood builders and help the body recover, especially if there was blood loss after birth. Supplement with liquid B vitamins, DHA and continue those prenatal vitamins. Eat well and try not to stress about it…or anything, really. Easier said than done, yes?
NEW MAMA OATMEAL BAKE Adapted from Heidi Swanson, 101cookbooks.com Yields 6–9 servings My doula friend brought this dish to me in the days after our little girl was born. The recipe is flexible and is easily customized to food allergies or aversions, and for me, it was the perfect breakfast and snack food throughout the early days and weeks. I love this recipe because it’s been passed around for years among the Conscious Birthing community—adapted to each kitchen and palate where it lands. Additions like chia seeds, sliced almonds, different fruit, frozen fruit, more eggs or more butter, and boosting protein with collagen hydrolysate, all work out well for this simple collection of ingredients. 1 large egg 2 c. milk (full-fat coconut or whole milk are ideal) 3 T. unsalted butter, melted (plus more for greasing the baking dish) 2 t. pure vanilla extract 2 c. rolled oats ½ c. pecan halves or walnut pieces, toasted, chopped 1 /3 c. coconut sugar 1 /3 c. semisweet chocolate chips (optional) 3 T. brewer’s yeast (optional, but great for lactation support) 2 t. ground cinnamon 1 t. baking powder ½ t. fine sea salt 2 ripe bananas, chopped into bite-size pieces ½ pt. blueberries or 1½ c. strawberries, chopped Heat the oven to 350° and grease a 9-by-9-inch baking dish. Whisk together the egg, milk, butter and vanilla and set aside. In a large mixing bowl, combine the remaining ingredients. Mix the wet ingredients into the dry, pour into the prepared baking dish and bake for 30 to 45 minutes, or until the mixture has set in the middle. For a richer texture, allow the combined mixture to sit overnight in the refrigerator before baking the next day. Serve warm or cold, and try topping with yogurt or kefir for added protein. Get extra points for adding a pat of butter to a serving before reheating. 54
HEALING HERBAL-INFUSION TEA Yields 2 cups Minerals from herbal infusions go directly into the bloodstream versus having to go through the gut to enter, which is a more diluted way to absorb minerals. The long, hot water infusion process brings minerals into suspension, making these drinks nutritive, alterative (bringing back to balance) and trophorestorative (so deeply nourishing that it restores health and system function). Nettle and oat straw are particularly suitable for postpartum infusions; oat straw has an antidepressant benefit—among many others—and nettle is particularly nourishing to the kidneys and adrenal glands. Protein, macrominerals (like calcium and magnesium) and trace minerals are all found in infusions, assisting hair and nail growth and thickening, which can be very helpful after the pregnancy hormones subside. I double the batch to drink a quart of infusion daily when extra nourishment is in order. ½ oz. dried herbs (oat straw and nettle are best) by weight 16 oz. filtered water Bring the water to a boil and pour over the dried herbs in a quart-size glass jar. Loosely place a lid or plate over the jar and allow the tea to infuse for 4 hours. Strain and refrigerate, then drink within 8 hours to get the minerals while they’re still in suspension.
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PLANT ME NOW FOR WINTER! BY SA RA H J. N I E LS E N • P H OTO G RA P H Y BY CA RO L E TO PA L I A N
ucurbits, the family of plants that includes cucumbers, squashes, gourds, pumpkins and watermelons, offers an amazing variety of fruits, flavors and uses, but they need
deeply fertilized soil and a lot of water to do so. Winter squashes need to be planted in early summer; that’s why folklore suggests planting your pumpkins for Halloween on the Fourth of July. Healthy plants are better able to fight off insects and disease, so they need a good start. It’s recommended to fertilize before planting by mixing in plenty of compost and appropriate fertilizer. Always check the soil’s pH (pH tests can be found at any nursery or garden center) and consider what elements both your soil and your plants need. If you’re not sure what’s going on with the numbers on the front of a fertilizer bag, P-N-K stands for phosphorus, nitrogen and potassium. Cucurbits do best with high phosphorus and lower nitrogen levels, and they also want a good bit of potassium. However, this is relative to your specific soil, so check with your local nursery about the right mix for your garden. Baby squash plants must be kept weed-free, but uprooting deep weeds can harm the root system of the squash, so pull the weeds when they’re new and weak. The broad leaves of the squash will eventually shade out weed growth. Also, because the squash have very tender root systems, it’s best to sow them directly in well-fertilized soil with ample sunshine rather than transplanting. If using transplants, though, self-sow in peat pots or cow pots, but keep them moist at all times. Start the seeds in these pots under grow lights three to four weeks before your planting schedule. Plenty of
plants and protect against pests; you just need to allow pollina-
gardeners often simply sow seeds in the compost pile, where the
tion to take place. There are two ways to allow pollination in spite
plants are practically guaranteed enough nutrition.
of crop covers, either by hand or by rolling up the sides of the
Choose plant varieties naturally resistant to your worst garden
cloth-covered hoop or tunnel after the early morning pest frolic.
foes. For example, a northern seed accustomed to lower tempera-
If pollinating by hand, check whether the plants are female or
tures and regular rainfall simply isn’t as likely to succeed in our
male by looking for the presence of a fruit underneath the flower
climate as one bred for generations in a clime similar to our own.
(female) or the straight male stem. Use a paintbrush to transfer
One of the best ways to avoid pests of the cucurbit and squash
male pollen from the stamen of a male flower to the calyx of a
world is simply to plant for a late harvest, avoiding the growth cy-
female flower, or strip the petals off a male flower, leaving the sta-
cle of the pests entirely. Most cucumber beetles and squash bee-
men intact, and use that to hand-pollinate two or three female blos-
tles wreak havoc earlier in the spring season, so planting a crop of
soms. Gently press the flower petals closed afterwards if you want
winter squash in early summer avoids some of these problems. It’s
to guarantee the seeds aren’t crossbred between squash varieties
still wise to consider a floating row cover or crop tunnel for your
for the next season.
squash: These are long fabric strips that enclose a row of squash
If you’d rather just plant some seeds and let nature do what it EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM
will, there are a number of regionally sensible varieties of winter squashes to plant. All are heirloom varieties, so they’re indeterminate (meaning they’ll grow, and grow and grow), and probably won’t produce as much fruit, but they have an amazing heritage— frequently passed down through communities or families for generations—and are often considered tastier than hybrid varieties. If you’re growing on a patio or have limited space, there are hybridized dwarf plants that can be grown in containers, trellised in lovely displays or otherwise kept tidy. As far as harvesting goes, wait until the rind is hardened on the
CHICKEN AND WHITE BEAN CHILI WITH ROASTED WINTER SQUASH Serves 6 This hearty, winter squash chili begins with a light roux to give depth and texture. There are lots of other recipes that don’t use a roux but instead, use some smashed beans for a smooth, thick base. However, the onion and pepper flavors that develop early on with proper roux and caramelization, as well as the roasted squash, take this version over the top.
squash and the vine has died or shriveled and turned brown. The part of the fruit that touches the ground will turn creamy-orange, as opposed to green and yellow. The fruits want to harden outside, or “cure,” for a few days (except in the case of rain.) Afterwards, keep them inside in a cool, dry space. Pumpkins and winter squash can keep anywhere from three months to a year, depending on variety and storage. Last word of advice: Don’t let the weird-looking warty gourds scare you away from culinary endeavors. When preparing these heirloom squash in chunks for roasting, cut them in half one way or the other, place them cut-side down and peel with the peeler or knife facing away from you. Then cut into chunks according to your recipe or desired size. Or, roast by cutting in half, scooping out the seeds and baking, cut-side down, for 40 to 60 minutes at 400 degrees. The skin should slide off easily once it has cooled. Squash are excellent savory or sweet, stuffed or sliced, baked or pureed, broiled or sautéed. Enjoy!
CENTRAL TEXAS/ZONE 8 SQUASH VARIETIES Tahitian Melon Squash: Much like a gigantic butternut, this squash grows well in the hot summer. It has extremely sweet flesh, one of the highest sugar contents in all cucurbits. Thai Rai Kaw Tok: Known to be a pest-resistant variety, it grows well in the heat and keeps very well after harvest. It has a lovely dark-green rind with lighter flecking. Seminole Pumpkin: Named for the native tribes of the Everglades where it was discovered by Spanish conquistadors, this squash will require more water than some varieties. It is heat-, disease- and pest-resistant. Cushaw White: Also known as “Jonathan Pumpkin,” this is a lovely white pumpkin shaped something like a butternut. It gives large numbers of fruit, and is also resistant to borers. Hopi Pale Grey: Originally from the Hopi tribes of the Southwest, this squash is a good option for our heat. It’s shaped like a football and is an attractive pale grayish-green color. Mongogo du Guatemala: This Guatemalan heirloom variety grows gorgeous rounded little fruits, and is shaped like a traditional pumpkin but striped in shades of green. It can be harvested as a summer or winter type.
½ c. clarified butter 1 c. all-purpose flour (unbleached) 1 qt. chicken broth, divided 3 T. extra-virgin olive oil, divided 1 winter squash of choice, peeled and cubed 3 T. chili powder 1½ T. ground cumin 1 t. salt ½ t. ground black pepper Pinch cayenne pepper ½ t. dried oregano 1 lb. boneless, skinless chicken breasts, cubed 1 large onion, chopped 2 garlic cloves, minced 1 yellow bell pepper, chopped ¼ c. roasted Hatch chiles, minced 2 T. tomato paste 2 c. cooked white beans (navy, cannellini or Great Northern) 1 14-oz. can good quality chopped tomatoes, with juice Juice from one lime Whipped goat cheese, diced Hatch chiles, fresh cilantro, for garnish Heat the butter over medium in a pan with rounded edges (or a saucier, if you have one). Test the butter by adding a tiny pinch of flour; when the butter bubbles like it’s lightly frying the flour, whisk in all the flour. Keep stirring while cooking the mixture—after the first 5 minutes, it will begin to change color and smell nutty. It will continue to darken, so keep stirring as it cooks. Once the roux turns light golden brown and begins to smell like popcorn, add half the broth and stir until the roux is completely thinned. Remove from the heat and set aside. Heat the oven to 400° and oil a flat sheet pan with 2 tablespoons of the olive oil. Toss the squash cubes on the pan to coat with the oil and season with salt and pepper. Roast for 25 minutes, turning the pan and stirring the squash once, midway through. Meanwhile, heat the remaining tablespoon of olive oil in a soup pot over medium-high heat. Mix the chili powder, cumin, salt, black pepper, cayenne pepper and oregano in a bowl. Dredge the cubed chicken in this spice mixture. Add the chicken to the olive oil and cook for 5 minutes, or until no longer pink. Remove the chicken to a plate, and add the onion to the pot—cooking until caramelized (about 5 minutes), then remove to the plate. Add the garlic and cook for about 30 seconds. Add the chicken, onions and any remaining spice mixture from the bowl to the pot. Add the bell pepper, Hatch chiles, tomato paste, beans, tomatoes and the remaining broth, then stir in the roux. Cook for 10 minutes over low/medium-low heat, so that the chili bubbles softly—stirring occasionally. Finally, add in the squash, cooking until it’s warmed throughout. Stir in the fresh lime juice and garnish each bowl as desired.
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THE DIRECTORY ARTISANAL FOODS Antonelli’s Cheese Shop We love cut-to-order artisanal cheese and all that goes with it. Order a picnic platter, take a class or host a private guided event. Free tastings daily. 512-531-9610 4220 Duval St. antonellischeese.com
Delysia Chocolatier Handcrafted in Austin. Our products are handmade using fine quality, sustainable chocolate and only the freshest ingredients. 512-413-4701 2000 Windy Terrace, Suite 2C delysia.com
Bending Branch Winery Bending Branch Winery is a premier Hill Country winery with award-winning wines, including our signature Texas Tannat. Visit us Thurs-Sun. 830-995-2948 142 Lindner Branch Trl., Comfort 830-995-3394 704 High St., Comfort bendingbranchwinery.com
Bent Oak Winery Bent Oak Winery is a local winery and tasting room bringing you fine wine with grapes sourced from Texas and California. 512-551-1189 2000 Windy Terrace, Ste. 2B bentoakwinery.com
Lick Honest Ice Creams Artisan ice creams celebrating the finest ingredients Texas has to offer! Handmade in small batches in our Austin kitchen. Natural, local and seasonal. 512-363-5622 1100 S. Lamar Blvd., Ste. 1135 512-609-8029 6555 Burnet Rd., Ste. 200 512-502-5949 1905 Aldrich Street, Ste. 150 ilikelick.com
Lone Star Meats Delivering high-quality products chefs desire with a meticulous eye on consistency. 512-646-6220 1403 E. 6th St. lonestarmeats.com
Straus Family Creamery Producers of high quality certified organic dairy products since 1994. 707-776-2887 1105 Industrial Ave., Ste. 200 Petaluma, CA strausfamilycreamery.com
BAKERIES Blue Note Bakery Blue Note Bakery is Austin’s premier custom cake shop, meticulously creating one-of-a-kind desserts for your special occasions. 512-797-7367 4201 S. Congress Ave., Ste. 101 bluenotebakery.com
BEVERAGES Becker Vineyards Winery, vineyards, and tasting room with wines for tasting and for sale. Lavender fields, lavender products and annual Lavender Fest. 830-644-2681 464 Becker Farms Rd., Stonewall beckervineyards.com
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Texas Coffee Traders East Austin’s artisinal coffee roaster and one-stop shop offering a wide selection of certified organic and fair trade options for wholesale and retail. 512-476-2279 1400 E. 4th St. texascoffeetraders.com
Texas Keeper Ciders Small-batch cider made in south Austin from 100% apples. Available in stores, bars, and restaurants throughout Austin, Houston, and DFW areas. 512-910-3409 12521 Twin Creeks Rd. texaskeeper.com
For more than four decades, the wines of St. Francis Winery & Vineyards have reflected the finest mountain and valley vineyards in Sonoma County. 888-675-9463 100 Pythian Road, Santa Rosa, CA stfranciswinery.com
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Tito’s Handmade Vodka
Bespoke Food Full-service caterer creating menus exclusive to each event for corporate and private parties. Truly bespoke. 512-323-0272 bespokeaustin.com
Spoon & Co. Catering It’s our business to delight you with the details, memorable events with mindfully chosen, prepared and presented food and a caring crew! 512-912-6784 spoonandco.com
EVENTS Palm Door Our facilities boast a total square footage of 7255 versatile indoor and outdoor space available for private events for groups up to 1000. Each section can be customized to suit the needs of creative and functional events ranging from weddings celebrations, corporate meetings and parties, marketing activations and live concerts. 512-386-1295 508 E. 6th St. 512-391-1994 401 Sabine St. palmdoor.com
Whim Hospitality St. Francis Winery & Vineyards
The Whim Hospitality family of services includes catering, event and tent rentals and florals. Separately, or as a package of services, we help make your next event memorable. 512-858-9446 2001 W. Hwy. 290, Ste. 107 Dripping Springs whimhospitality.com
Fredericksburg peaches. Local fruit and vegetable stand. Peach ice cream. Peach cider. Over 100 Texas gourmet jarred products. Sweet snacks and gifts. 830-644-2604 15194 E. US Hwy 290, Stonewall burgscorner.com
GROCERS Royal Blue Grocery Downtown Austin’s neighborhood grocer—with dairy, prepared foods, beer and wine, Royal Blue has it all, in a convenient and compact format. Catering too! 512-499-3993 247 W. 3rd St. 512-476-5700 360 Nueces St. 512-469-5888 609 Congress Ave. 512-386-1617 301 Brazos St., Ste. 110 512-480-0061 51 Rainey St. 512-524-0740 1645 E. 6th St. royalbluegrocery.com
Whole Foods Market Selling the highest quality natural and organic products. 512-542-2200 525 N. Lamar Blvd. 512-345-5003 9607 Research Blvd. 512-206-2730 12601 Hill Country Blvd., Bee Cave 512-358-2460 4301 W. William Cannon wholefoodsmarket.com
HEALTH AND WELLNESS
The Herb Bar
Austin Dental Spa Mark Sweeney, DDS Dr. Mark Sweeney has extensive experience in the general, cosmetic, and restorative fields of dentistry and is committed to helping patients achieve healthy, beautiful smiles. 512-380-1300 3305 Northland Dr, Ste. 515 austindentalspa.com
Peoples Rx Pharmacy and Deli Since 1980, Austin’s favorite pharmacy keeps locals healthy through Rx compounding, supplements and prescriptions, holistic practitioners and natural foods. 512-459-9090; 4018 N. Lamar Blvd. 512-444-8866; 3801 S. Lamar Blvd. 512-327-8877; 4201 Westbank Dr. 512-219-9499; 13860 Hwy 183 N. peoplesrx.com
Wiseman Family Practice Wiseman Family Practice is an integrative medical practice in Austin that focuses on health education and natural approaches to wellness. 512-345-8970 2500 S. Lakeline Blvd. Ste. 100 Cedar Park 300 Medical Arts St. 3010 Bee Cave Rd, Ste. 200 wisemanfamilypractice.com
YMCA of Austin Building programs for youth development, healthy living and social responsibility that promote strong families, character values, youth leadership and community development. 8 Austin Area Locations 512-322-9622 austinymca.org
Best place to cure what ails you and a resource center since 1986. Our Optimal Health Advisers are highly trained, knowledgeable and compassionate. 512-444-6251 200 W. Mary St. theherbbar.com
LANDSCAPE AND GARDENING Locally grown Texas native plants. Organic pest management. Environmentally friendly soil amendments. Beautiful gifts. 512-328-6655 3601 Bee Caves Rd. bartonspringsnursery.net
It’s About Thyme Garden Center Top quality herbs for chefs, and native plants for gardeners. A nursery with expert staff and pocket-friendly prices. Free lectures most Sundays. 512-280-1192 11726 Manchaca Rd. itsaboutthyme.com
Natural Gardener We are a garden center and teaching facility dedicated to promoting organic time-tested gardening practices. 512-288-6113 8648 Old Bee Caves Rd. naturalgardeneraustin.com
LODGING AND TOURISM Onion Creek Kitchens at Juniper Hills Farm
HOUSEWARES AND GIFTS Callahan’s General Store
Copenhagen Imports Contemporary furniture and accessories for home and office. 512-451-1233 2236 W. Braker Ln. copenhagenliving.com
Der Küchen Laden Retail gourmet kitchen shop, featuring cookware, cutlery, bakeware, small electrics, textiles and kitchen gadgets. 830-997-4937 258 E. Main St., Fredericksburg littlechef.com 64
Austin Label Company Custom labels up to 10 x 20 on paper, foil, synthetics, multiple adhesives, embossing, hot foil and UV coatings. Proud members of Go Texan, FTA and TWGGA. 512-302-0204 1610 Dungan Ln. austinlabel.com
Barton Springs Nursery
Cooking classes, beautiful dining room venue for private events, hill country cabin rental. 830-833-0910 5818 RR 165 Dripping Springs juniperhillsfarm.com
Austin’s real general store…hardware to western wear, from feed to seed! 512-385-3452 501 S. Hwy. 183 callahansgeneralstore.com
Central Texas Food Bank
REAL ESTATE Audrey Row — Keller Williams Realtor assisting residential selling or buying clients in the Austin/Dripping Springs and surrounding areas. Land and Residential market. 512-789-1633 1801 S. Mopac, Suite 100 austinanddrippinghomes.com
Barbara Van Dyke — Kuper Sotheby’s Kuper Sotheby’s International Realty Realtor. Helping buyers and sellers move to the next chapter of their lives. 512-431-2552 4301 Westbank Dr., B-100 barbaravandyke.kuperrealty.com
Judd Waggoman — Christie’s International Real Estate Your ultimate source for luxury real estate in Los Cabos. Ranked #1 Realtor in Los Cabos, Mexico by InMexico Magazine. 530-751-6797 judcaborealestate.com
The Marye Company Full service real estate firm in Austin, Texas. Where you live is a lifestyle. Let us help you define yours. 512-444-7171 5608 Parkcrest, Suite 300 themaryecompany.com
Austin Taco Project Austin Taco Project once and for all renders the “where-should-we-get-tacos” question irrelevant. Fusion tacos, custom cocktails, and a celebration of all-things eclectic. 512-682-2739 500 E. 4th St. austintacoproject.com
Barlata Tapas Bar Located in the heart of South Lamar. Barlata offers a variety of tapas, paellas, regional Spanish wines and cavas. Come and enjoy a bit of Spain with us. 512-473-2211 1500 S. Lamar Blvd., Ste. 150 barlataaustin.com
Crepe Crazy Offering succulent savory and sweet crepes with a modern European twist using the highest quality authentic European recipes with a focus on the best & freshest ingredients. 512-387-2442 3103 S. Lamar Blvd. crepecrazy.com
East Side Pies Fresh, local thin crust pizza - we know what you want. 512-524-0933; 1401B Rosewood Ave. 512-454-7437; 5312 G Airport Blvd. 512-467-8900; 1809-1 W. Anderson Ln. eastsidepies.com
Flyrite Chicken At Flyrite, we believe fast food should be real food. Our delicious sandwiches, wraps and shakes are fresh and made to order. Drive Thru. Eat Well! 512-284-8014 2129 E. 7th St. 512-243-6258 6539 Burnet Rd. flyritechicken.com
Fonda San Miguel
Distinctive interior Mexican cuisine and fine art. 512-459-4121 2330 W. North Loop fondasanmiguel.com
The Central Texas Food Bank is on the front line of hunger relief in a 21-county area, helping nearly 46,000 Central Texans each week access nutritious food when they need it the most. 512-282-2111 6500 Metropolis Dr. centraltexasfoodbank.org
Austin Energy — City of Austin
PHOTOGRAPHY AND ART
Neapolitan pizza, baked goods, ice cream and burgers. 512-237-5627 109 NE. 2nd St., Smithville honeyspizza.com
Blanton Museum of Art
Austin Beer Garden Brewing Co.
Jobell Cafe & Bistro
Locally-sourced lunch and dinner. Craft brewery, live music, good people, dog friendly, creative community. #beermakesitbetter #ouratx 512-298-2242 1305 W. Oltorf St. theabgb.com
We offer a carefully selected and prepared take on French bistro fare with wonderful wines all served amidst the intimacy and charm of Texas Hill Country. 512-847-5700 16920 RR 12, Wimberley jobellcafe.com
The Blanton Museum of Art, one of the foremost university art museums in the country, offers all visitors engaging experiences that connect art and ideas. 512-471-7324 200 E. Martin Luther King Jr. Blvd blantonmuseum.org
No roof? No problem. Austin Energy residential customers now have the option to go solar and meet 100% of their electricity needs through the Community Solar Program. 512-482-5346 austinenergy.com
Kerbey Lane Cafe Kerbey Lane Cafe is a local Austin haunt serving up tasty, healthy food (mostly) 24/7. Stop by any of our 6 locations for a delicious stack of pancakes! 512-451-1436 kerbeylanecafe.com
The Leaning Pear CafĂŠ & Eatery Serving the Texas Hill Country fresh and seasonal favorites using local ingredients. 512-847-7327 111 River Rd., Wimberley leaningpear.com
Lenoir Lenoir is an intimate, family-run restaurant offering a weekly, local prix-fixe menu, great wine and friendly service. 512-215-9778 1807 S. 1st St. lenoirrestaurant.com
ThunderCloud Subs For fresh, fast and healthy, head on over to your neighborhood ThunderCloud Subs, Austinâ€™s original sub shop. Now with 30 locations in Central Texas. 512-479-8805 thundercloud.com
Whip In Beer & wine bars with restaurant. Gujarati (Indian) style food. Huge selection of beer & wine retail. Fill growlers with 72 draft beers. 512-442-5337 1950 S. I-35 whipin.com
SPECIALTY MARKETS Make It Sweet At Make It Sweet, you can find tools, supplies and ingredients to make cakes, cookies and candies and learn fun, new techniques in the classes offered. 512-371-3401 9070 Research Blvd. makeitsweet.com
department of organic YOUTH
COOKING WITH CLASS BY A D D I E M A H E R
HOW TO HARD-BOIL AN EGG
ow many kids in the U.S. can make a full-course dinner? According to dailymail.com, 30 percent of college students can’t boil an egg, while 18 percent can’t make a piece
of toast. Is it reasonable to send kids off to college if they don’t even know how to cook an egg? When you first send a kid to school, you expect them to learn about math, science, geography, history…but what about cooking? Currently, most schools don’t offer these types of classes, but I think they should. My younger sister attended a cooking camp last summer because she wants to cook in a restaurant some day or start a business related to cooking. But if there were cooking classes offered in schools, she and other kids could have more of these opportunities and, more importantly, learn the foundational skills to feed themselves in a healthy and cost-effective way when they’re older. They would probably start appreciating the food that others cook for them as well. When this country was first settled, you couldn’t just throw a pizza in the microwave and eat it in a few minutes. Food came from planting seeds in a garden and raising animals. Everything had to
Eggs can be daunting, but they taste very, very good when cooked right. Place the eggs in a saucepan large enough to hold them in a single layer. Add cold water to cover the eggs by 1 inch. Heat the pan over high heat just to boiling, then remove from the burner and cover with a lid. Let the eggs stand in the hot water for about 12 minutes for large eggs (9 minutes for medium eggs; 15 minutes for extra large). Drain and serve warm, or cool completely under cold running water or in a bowl of ice water, then refrigerate.
be picked or butchered by hand. Everyone helped—from little children picking vegetables to teenagers shooting game. It was not an option to sit on the couch and eat ramen noodles every night, because there were no ramen noodles. No way would I want to go back to those days, of course (I deeply appreciate being able to contact my friends with the push of a button, and some days I do want to sit and eat ramen—because I LOVE ramen), but modern convenience is no excuse for not knowing how to make yourself an egg in the morning. Also, when you put together a meal with your own hands, pouring, mixing and tasting everything yourself, there is a deeply rooted sense of accomplishment—even more so when you share your food with others. When you bake a cake and people like it, it feels so much better than when you buy a cake from the store. Don’t we want kids to feel this, too? When my dad is asked the ingredients of something he’s made, he lists them all and, at the end, he adds
HOW TO MAKE TOAST Making toast may seem like instinct to some of us, but for those who don’t know how, be assured that it is actually quite easy. Slice a piece of bread from the loaf (I recommend using rye or plain white bread, but you can use anything, any whole grains are healthy! Also, toast is a delicious way to use up slightly stale bread.) Slide the slice of bread into the slot at the top of the toaster, or onto the rack of your toaster oven. If there’s a timing knob, turn it to between 3 and 5 (3 will be lighter; 5 darker). If your toaster/oven has a darkness setting for toast, select a lower setting just in case. Push down the carriage on the toaster, or close the door of the toaster oven, and wait. When your toast pops up or the toaster oven beeps and turns off, grab the toast carefully so as not to burn yourself. Slather with butter or jam and enjoy!
“love.” And he means it. In first or second grade, one of the first things kids learn in school is what humans need to survive: shelter, water and food. If food is an essential, why don’t schools teach kids how to prepare healthy food that tastes infinitely better than any store-bought or frozen meals? While they’re learning about math, science and other cultures, why not also introduce them to the beautiful culture that is food? I’ll even offer up a lesson plan for the first class. 66
Addie Maher is 13 years old and in eighth grade at Acton Academy Austin. She has seven pets (a cat, a dog, four chickens and a little sister) and she loves to cook and eat with her family and friends.
We Believe in Real Food
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Published on Jun 30, 2017
This July and August we'll focus on helping our readers improve their well-being with stories that spotlight healing and ways to boost your...