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No. 49 Nov/Dec | Heirloom 2016

Cel eb ra ti n g Cen tra l Texa s fo o d cu lt u re, sea so n by sea so n


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CONTENTS heirloom issue 8 notable MENTIONS 12 notable EDIBLES Crubom, Farmshare Austin, UT’s Living Wall,

Breedlove’s Tabletop Essentials, Simmering Soup Co.

21 edible ENDEAVOR

35

Springdale Handmade.

32 edible ENTERPRISE

New digs for an Austin perennial.

42 cooks at HOME

Tien Ho.

50 WHAT WE’RE drinking

with Heirloom.

21

58

HEIRLOOM features 22 The Big Short Order

52 WHAT I EAT and why Mimi’s kitchen: Learning family recipes straight

from grandma.

The bursting of Austin’s restaurant bubble.

26 In Line with Marcelino Following in the footsteps of family tradition.

56 edible GARDENS

Gardening by hand.

58 hip girl’s guide to HOMEMAKING

Pickled green tomatoes.

28 Chiles Secos de México Unique flavors of dried chiles.

35 An Heirloom and Heritage Feast Celebrate the season with heirlooms and heritage ingredients.

61 The Directory

46 Mapping the True Texas Hold ’Em The Taco Professors take us to the taco mile.

COVER: Ready to feast by Jenna Northcutt. Special thanks to Lenoir for the use of their wine garden (page 35).


PUBLISHER’S NOTE

WORDS MATTER

H

PUBLISHER Marla Camp

ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER eirloom. Heritage. Authentic. Credible. Trustworthy. Real.

Words. These words matter because they represent truths

Jenna Northcutt

EDITOR Kim Lane

we hold to be self-evident. And yet increasingly in our soci-

ADVERTISING DIRECTOR

ety and our businesses, the ideals behind these words have

Dawn Weston

become elusive and ever-harder to live by. When you’re in the business of brokering words, as we

COPY EDITOR Anne Marie Hampshire

are with our magazine, this is no trivial matter. While our

EDITORIAL ASSISTANTS

business is dependent on advertising revenue, we will never compro-

Claire Cella, Dena Garcia, Cari Marshall, Michelle Moore

mise our editorial integrity for financial gain. We will not sell our cover, for example, and we will not sell our stories. “Pay for play” may be be-

EVENTS COORDINATOR

coming more common in much of the publishing world, but it’s not in

Susanna Cassady

our playbook. Words matter. So we take care to align ourselves with advertising partners who we can endorse as being real...trustworthy... credible. Recently, we struggled with an opportunity to run a full page

MARKETING SPECIALISTS Christine Andrews, Valerie Kelly

ad for an international bottled water company. While it’s true that many of our readers and local restaurant partners buy and offer this product, we ultimately decided that it wasn’t in alignment with our Edible brand, which values conservation and drinking local water over promoting plastic-bottled water shipped from another continent. Our Heirloom issue celebrates tradition and authenticity, family memories and gatherings with friends over food. We can remember and relish these traditions by immersing ourselves in them using all of our senses—tasting, smelling, touching, listening, seeing—and by using words to recall the memories. We hope you enjoy the stories in this issue, told from the heart, to be passed along in meaningful ways to others. Saludos and happy holidays!

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DISTRIBUTION MANAGER Grayson Oheim

INTERN Darby Kendall

ADVISORY GROUP Terry Thompson-Anderson, Paula Angerstein, Dorsey Barger, Jim Hightower, Toni Tipton-Martin, Mary Sanger, Carol Ann Sayle

CONTACT US Edible Austin 1411A Newning Ave., Austin, TX 78704 512-441-3971 info@edibleaustin.com edibleaustin.com Edible Austin is published bimonthly by Edible Austin L.L.C. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be used without written permission of the publisher. ©2016. Every effort is made to avoid errors, misspellings and omissions. If, however, an error comes to your attention, please accept our sincere apologies and notify us.


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notable MENTIONS

Green Mango Real Estate

IT’S TACO TIME! Join Edible Austin at BookPeople for delicious conversation and tastings with “The Tacos of Texas” authors Mando Rayo and Jarod Neece

We m a k e buying and selling houses

on Thursday, November 10 at 7 p.m. Rooted in Mexican tradition and infused with Texas food culture, tacos are some of Texans’ all-time favorite foods. In “The Tacos of Texas,” Rayo and Neece take us on a taco tour

a delicious

around the state as they discover the traditions, recipes, stories

experience

in Dallas, breakfast tacos in Austin, carnitas tacos in El Paso, fish

and personalities behind puffy tacos in San Antonio, trompo tacos tacos in Corpus Christi, barbacoa in the Rio Grande Valley and much more. Hear them regale us, in person, with taco tales from the road. Visit bookpeople.com for more information.

 ..

FARM FLICKS Connect with some of your Central Texas

www.g reenmangorealestate.com

farmers through the art of film and food on Tuesday, November 15 at 6:30 p.m. at the Alamo Drafthouse on South Lamar with this special screening of Farm Flicks. Produced by Good Name Productions, Farm Flicks is three new short documentary films about Green Gate Farms, Indian Hills Farm and Farmgrass—a nonprofit that raises medical emergency funds for local farmers. The films offer an intimate look into the hard world of sustainable farming and explore how organizations like Farmgrass help keep farm-fresh foods on our tables. The event includes a locally sourced, two-course meal featuring seasonal vegetables and grassfed beef from the two farms, plus one raffle ticket, one drink ticket, a Farmgrass pint glass and other goodies. Edible Austin publisher Marla Camp will moderate a conversation with farmers from the two featured farms. Proceeds benefit emergency medical funds for Central Texas farmers. Visit farmgrass.org/farm-flicks for more information.

2017 TOFGA CONFERENCE REGISTRATION OPEN Register now for the 2017 Texas Organic Farmers and Gardeners Association (TOFGA) Conference to be held at the Mesquite Convention Center in Mesquite from Thursday, January 12 through Saturday, January 14. Presented by TOFGA, the conference aims to support the hard work and dedication of these sustainable and organic farmers, ranchers and gardeners across the state through its presentations and educational outreach. Visit tofga. org for more information and to purchase tickets. 8

HEIRLOOM 2016

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No matter how you mix it, my handmade vodka beats those giant “imports” every day.

Tito’s

WINE ENTHUSIAST RATINGS SCORE OUT OF 100 POINTS

CLASS IC GIM LET OUR GIMLET, MADE WITH TITO’S HANDMADE VODKA AND FRESH LIME JUICE, IS A LITTLE BIT TANGY, A LITTLE BIT SWEET, AND PERFECTLY REFRESHING. ★ 1.5 oz. Tito’s

Handmade Vodka ★ 1 oz fresh lime juice ★ 1 oz. simple syrup OR 1 tsp. sugar Combine all ingredients in a cocktail shaker. Shake vigorously and strain into a chilled cocktail glass. Garnish with a lime wheel or a lime wedge.

E njoy!

PTS


EDIBLE AUSTIN GETS WARHOLIAN “Food is my great extravagance,” said Andy Warhol. Edible Austin shares this sentiment and that’s why we’re thrilled to bring some local flavor—literally—to the Blanton Museum’s Warhol: By the Book, the first museum exhibition in the U.S. to examine Andy Warhol’s career-long work in books. The Blanton’s Third Thursday festivities on Thursday, November 17 at 7:30 p.m. will feature bites from local chefs riffing off the foodie themes in this vibrant exhibition. “I really spoil myself in the food area,” said Warhol, “so my leftovers are often grand—my hairdresser’s cat eats pâté at least twice a week.” Indeed, Warhol has inspired our chefs’ tasty tidbits by the copious gastronomic references in his iconic artwork in the exhibition, including “So Sweet,” “Spaghetti is So Slippery,” “Love is a Pink Cake” and, of course, works referencing Campbell’s soup cans. Admission on Third Thursdays is free, and the Blanton Café and Shop are open until 9 p.m. Visit blantonmuseum.org for more information.

FORTY YEARS OF FOOD AND ART On Thursday, December 8, Edible Austin and BookPeople will celebrate four decades of Fonda San Miguel’s dedication to authentic interior Mexican food and world-class Mexican art. Fonda San Miguel cofounder Tom Gilliland will take us through the journey via stories that inspired “Fonda San Miguel,” the updated and reissued book he wrote with cofounder, Miguel Ravago. Taste the authenticity yourself with bites that accompany the talk, which begins at 7 p.m. Visit bookpeople.com for more information.

NIGHT LIGHTS The Austin Trail of Lights kicks off with a bang with Night Lights, the third annual preview party, on Friday, December 9 from 6 to 10 p.m. This uniquely Austin event features performances by Shinyribs and The Greyhounds, tastings from some of Austin best restaurants, a classic car show and an eclectic Maker’s Market, curated by Edible Austin. This year’s Maker’s Market includes austiNuts, Greater Goods Coffee Roasters, Delysia Chocolatier, CA_edible_Quarter_Ad_20160815.indd 2

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handcrafted home goods from Thirds and many more locally made goods and morsels. Proceeds benefit the Trail of Lights Foundation, a nonprofit dedicated to producing the Trail of Lights community celebration. Visit austintrailoflights.org for more information.

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This exhibition has been organized by The Andy Warhol Museum, Pittsburgh, one of the four Carnegie Museums of Pittsburgh. Andy Warhol, Dolly Parton, 1985, acrylic and silkscreen ink on linen, 42 x 42 in., Collection of The Andy Warhol Museum, Pittsburgh © 2016 The Andy Warhol Foundation for the Visual Arts, Inc. / Artists Rights Society (ARS), New York

#WarholByTheBook

Blanton Museum of Art / The University of Texas at Austin / MLK at Congress / Austin, TX 78712 / 512.471.7324 / www.blantonmuseum.org


notable EDIBLES CHOCOLATE UNPLUGGED

W

hen Christina (“Weena”) Hedrick set out to start a raw-chocolate company, she nearly named it “Weena’s Good for You

Goodies,” but soon nixed the idea. “Some people don’t think chocolate is healthy, so I didn’t want to get into that debate,” she says. She opted instead for a friend’s suggestion of “Crubom” (a combo of the Portuguese words for “raw” and “good”), though that moniker didn’t stave off the inevitable chocolate nitpickers.

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At Barton Creek Farmers Market, where she’s run a weekly booth since 2015, she sometimes has to deal with the question of how any so-called “raw chocolate” can be truly raw, given that it’s gone through minimal processing. She sometimes jests that it’s either this, or pure cacao beans knocking around in a bag. Her customers with food allergies certainly aren’t complaining, though. Hedrick began making raw chocolate for her daughter and husband to avoid their assorted allergies and other health problems. She soon found an eager clientele of people in the same

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boat; they (and even regular old chocoholics) appreciate an allergen-free chocolate that still tastes good. “There’s a stigma about raw chocolate that it has to be grainy and yucky because it’s a health food,” Hedrick says. Working out of her home and an industrial kitchen, Hedrick mixes her boms—chocolate golf balls of goodness—with pink Himalayan sea salt, ginger, lemon zest, hemp seed, bee pollen, coconut, basil and any other ingredients she dreams up (bacon and coffee, anyone?). She sells chocolate bars at the farmers market and the boms and spreadable chocolate in jars at Austin shops such as Tiny Taiga, Antonelli’s Cheese Shop, River City Market, Thom’s Market and The Sated Sheep in Dripping Springs. With a second child on the way and a nutritional science degree at University of Texas halfway finished, Hedrick and her husband/ business partner, Tim, aren’t in a hurry to expand Crubom too much. “We like keeping it small,” she says. Still, she’s always open to special orders of chocolate boxes for birthdays, holidays and weddings. Although Hedrick crafts more complex creations for loyal customers from a “secret menu,” she’s an open-source chocolatier who’s done two raw-chocolate workshops with Austin Learnshop. She plans to do more workshops to demystify the art of raw chocolate. “We would love to see more people making raw chocolate,” she says. “There’s plenty of room for it to spread.” —Steve Wilson For more information, visit crubom.com or call 915-253-7494.

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We are Greater Goods Coffee born in Austin, TX. Nice to meet you. We have two passions - roasting award winning coffee and supporting our local Austin community. That’s why every bag of coffee sold donates directly to one of four Austin charities.

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PRODUCE ON WHEELS

F

ood trucks aren’t just for foodies and late-night munchers anymore. In September, Farmshare Austin started rolling out

mobile farm stands to reach the parts of town that don’t have a de-

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cent source of fresh produce. “We’re connecting local farmers with parts of our city and county that don’t have access to fresh food,” says Taylor Cook, Farmshare Austin’s executive director. Launched in 2014, Farmshare Austin trains organic farmers on its acres just outside town. Traditionally, the resulting crops have been distributed through the various markets run by the Sustainable Food Center, but when Edwin Marty, food policy manager of Austin’s Office of Sustainability, published the “State of the Food System” re-

“The Ultimate Nursery for Herbs” Austin Chronicle

port last year, he gave Farmshare a new impetus. The report lays out the “food deserts” of Austin—areas without so much as a grocery store to call their own. With a City of Austin grant, Farmshare set out to take its produce directly to some of those spots. Cook says they

Culinary herbs for chefs— and fruit trees, veggies and native plants for gardeners

hope to reach more deserts with more potential funding next year. After holding community meetings to figure out, as Cook puts it, the X’s on the map and what products to offer, Farmshare began to set up mobile markets at three sites each week around town. As

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a nonprofit, the group can sell organic produce for about the same price as regular produce—ensuring customers get the best possible nutrition at a decent price, especially those in the Supplemental Nutrition Assistance Program (SNAP), which lets them spend one dollar for two dollars’ worth of product. In addition to fruits and vegetables, Farmshare also sells canned beans, whole-wheat pasta, rice and other items to round out the dinner table. “We want to make sure we give people enough to go home with a healthy, well-rounded meal,” says Cook. —Steve Wilson Find Farmshare mobile markets every week at these locations: KIPP Austin Public Schools—East Campus 8509 FM 969, Bldg. 619 • Fridays: 3:30 to 5 p.m. Hornsby-Dunlap Elementary 13901 FM 969 • Wednesdays: 4 to 6 p.m. Los Cielos Park Corner of Campana Dr. and Los Cielos Blvd., Del Valle Tuesdays and Thursdays: 5 to 7 p.m. For more information, visit farmshareaustin.org or call 512-337-2211.

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Dinosaur planters

ANOTHER PLANT IN THE WALL

T

his past May, the University of Texas’ 84-year-old Goldsmith Hall became home to a strikingly innovative design concept:

a living wall. The 10-by-25-foot honeycomb frame on the building’s northwest corner holds 148 hexagonal containers filled with dirt and plants. It not only looks cool, it IS cool—potentially cutting down on the building’s A/C bills while filtering air, mitigating storm water, reducing noise and adding a little pizzazz to the urbanscape. “We wanted to show how the same perks of a green roof could be applied to

find it at

a wall,” says UT’s School of Architecture’s Assistant Professor Danelle Briscoe, who spearheaded the vertical garden with Mark Simmons, then-director of the Ecosystem Design Group with the Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center. Europe and Japan have already embraced living walls, but not necessarily in the regions as hot and sticky as Austin. That’s where the honeycomb structure comes into play—ensuring that each 16-inch module shades another. Meanwhile, the Wildflower Center planted Virginia creeper, crossvine, Mexican feather grass and other native plants that can survive harsh heat in a specially designed soil (patent pending) that doesn’t disintegrate in the heat, suck up ungodly amounts of irrigation water or weigh a ton. “We’re showing that, if done right, a living wall can provide lots of benefits, not just for the environment but for urban people living in a reduced plant space,” says Michelle Bright, an environmental designer at the Wildflower Center, who took over for Simmons

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after he passed away from leukemia in 2015. Not only is UT’s living wall one of the toughest ever crafted, it may also be the only one intentionally designed to nurture wildlife. The plants and specific nesting cells are designed to attract anole lizards, hummingbirds, butterflies, songbirds and raptors such as hawks and

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owls. “We’re trying to promote an ecology system,” says Briscoe. Funded, in part, by UT’s Green Fee Award, the wall is a trial run for a larger version Briscoe wants to build on the Guadalupe parking garage once funding comes through. In the meantime, the wall may inspire copycats, if the interest that’s come in from around the country keeps up. “We hope to give people confidence

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to build living walls everywhere,” says Briscoe. —Steve Wilson Visit soa.utexas.edu/headlines/utsoa-announces-living-wall-project

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GIMME SOME LOVIN’

A

fter years spent perfecting his pickling, meat-curing and jam-making skills, Chef Jonathan Mayfield thought banging

out a little flavored tonic water would be no sweat. He hardly even used the stuff himself, and only made it in the first place for his wife, Ami. “She’s a cocktail person; I like bourbon and ice,” he says. But, lo and behold, the tonic water he considered just an afterthought became their top seller when he and Ami started their company Breedlove’s Tabletop Essentials earlier this year (Breedlove is Ami’s maiden name). Now, customers at their Barton Creek Farmers Market booth can’t seem to get enough of their

Mayfields had only appeared at the farmers market nine times but

tonic water made from local ingredients. All of Breedlove’s hand-

had already attracted investors for the next phase of their busi-

made jams, jellies, pickles and more are sourced from Texas’

ness: a permanent location in Fredericksburg.

abundance—especially from the Hill Country. “It really comes

Inspired by the farmhouse vibe of Jester King Brewery, Breedlove’s

through in a jam,” says Jonathan, “to take a Fredericksburg peach

will function like a country store—selling jams, jellies, confitures,

that can’t get any more ripe and trap it in time.”

marmalades, pickles, probiotic fermented vegetables, homemade

Obsessing over jam and tonic water isn’t what either Mayfield

cheeses, charcuterie, cured meats and, of course, their now-famous

had in mind when they met at the Driskill Hotel kitchen and

tonic water. What ingredients they aren’t able to grow themselves

promptly crossed an ocean together to train in London restau-

they’ll continue to get through the local farm partners they work

rants. Though they learned a lot overseas, they realized the in-

with in a co-op.

tense Michelin-star-restaurant track wasn’t for them. The couple

With a launch planned for late 2017, the Mayfields intend to ramp up

returned home to Austin and soon started a family—prompting

their operations in coming months with more farmers market appear-

Jonathan to take jobs running the kitchens at Jo’s Downtown and

ances around town. That suits Jonathan just fine. “I was knee-deep with

later at a conference center, where he started experimenting with

food all over me, running around like a mad person,” he says. “Now I

pickling and jarring. Tired of the grind, he left the restaurant biz

get to sit in my own booth and talk to people.” —Steve Wilson

in January, 2016, to start Breedlove’s with Ami. As of August, the

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BROTH RANGE OF INGREDIENTS

W

hen stocking up on ingredients for her Simmering Soup Co., Ruthann Royal buys vegetables, a little meat, and

bones…lots and lots of bones. That’s because her chicken and beef bone broths have a loyal following at the small-batch soup booth Royal runs at Barton Creek Farmers Market. “The paleo crowd loves it,” she says. Royal put a marketing career on hold to raise her children, but when she returned to work last year, she opted to start a food business instead. She’d been overdoing it on salads at the time and hot soup sounded a whole lot better than cold leafy greens. Having never seen any soup vendors at the Barton Creek market, Royal figured she could fill the niche—especially with something as obvious and yet as novel as bone broth on the menu. “People are going back to traditional cooking and eating styles,” says Royal. “And as my grandmother says: broth will cure what ails you. It’s not just good for meal prep, it’s super healthy and packed full of nutrients. I usually sip a cup a day.” The broth, which requires mostly just bones, water and a few days of simmering, lies at the opposite end of the culinary spectrum from Royal’s other ever-experimental soups. Using local, organic and pasture-raised items (save for some spices here and there), Royal creates four or five different seasonal soups each week for a variety of needs, be they vegan, gluten-free or otherwise. Her 10-spice veggie soup uses blended cashews for creaminess, while the creamy roasted tomato soup eschews cow milk in favor of coconut milk. “When I started, I found there were a lot of eating styles not covered in soups,” she says. It seems only natural for all that creativity to splash over into her broths, too. Royal is tinkering with ginger-enhanced broths and working to produce the broths faster with a pressure cooker. Though ambitious in these creations, she says she’s in no hurry to expand the business. For now, she’s content with her booth at the farmers market, her presence at Thom’s Market and the handful of private clients she cooks for every week. “I’m a one-woman operation, and if people ask me to do something, I say ‘yes’ until I can’t do it any more,” she says. “But it’s very rewarding to feel like I’m helping people pursue healthy eating.” —Steve Wilson For more information, visit facebook.com/simmeringsoupco or call 512-924-9991.

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edible ENDEAVOR

SPRINGDALE HANDMADE BY V I RG I N I A WO O D • P H OTO G RA P H Y BY A N DY SA M S

E

ach of East Austin’s urban farms has developed its own unique identity. The bountiful acreage and historic farmhouse at Boggy Creek Farm date back to the Republic of Texas

era; HausBar Farms features a charming animal menagerie plus a bed-and-breakfast; while Rain Lily Farm is an important component of the popular Farmhouse Delivery service. Glenn and Paula Foore’s Springdale Farm is no different; in addition to a twice-weekly farm stand, the farm hosts a limited number of weddings and community events and is home to Chef Sonya Coté’s casual trailer eatery known as Eden East. And this year, the newest attraction at the 5-acre property is a product line called Springdale Handmade. Historically, farm women created soaps and salves to care for their families, but what began as a late-fall soap-making experiment has quickly evolved into a distinctive selection of soaps, scented candles, scrubs, salves and body butters that bear no resemblance to the homemade soaps of the old days. “I’ve always enjoyed different aspects of preserving and I really love having a project,” says Paula. In the fall of 2015, she and longtime customer and local food advocate, Carla Crownover, tried their hands at making soaps. They enhanced the soaps with herbs, vegetables and flowers grown on the farm. While the soaps were curing, the friends designed wrappers bearing a new logo, and when the rustic-looking soaps were ready to use, they put a few of them out for sale at the farm stand just to see what would happen. The soaps were the hit of the holiday season— rapidly selling out anytime they were on the shelves. The popularity of the soaps encouraged Paula and Carla to develop more items. Scented soy candles and body butters came next, followed by salves, scrubs and bath teas. “Developing these things has been a wonderful creative outlet for me,” Carla says with a smile. The duo read books and scoured the internet for ideas— adapting recipes they discovered to suit their needs and learning which items work best with hot or cold processing. Springdale Handmade products are made with all natural fragrances and essential oils in addition to ingredients sourced from small area companies, such as Austin Honey Company, Lost Pines Yaupon Tea, Texas Coffee Traders, Third Coast Coffee and Zhi Tea. In the process of development, Paula and Carla even found the perfect use for a bountiful crop of loofah (a vine in the cucumber family). New products are tested on themselves, family and friends. Even the farm dog, Ellie May, contributed to the research and development of Springdale Handmade’s natural flea-repellent soap. The product line is evolving with the seasons, with gift collections

Paula Foore (left) and Carla Crownover of Springdale Handmade for every major holiday or occasion. There is shaving soap for Dad, avocado face bars, sugar scrubs and bath teas for Mom, not to mention insect repellent and soothing calendula salve for gardeners—even a coffee soap for chefs to remove food smells from their hands. Once the Springdale Handmade product line was firmly established at the biweekly farm stand, Paula and Carla began to consider expansion. They will gladly create customized gift collections for bridal couples who marry on the farm, for example, and over the summer, Carla managed to place select products at locations such as Hillside Farmacy and Métier Cooks Supply. The new Austin Salt Cave spa requested soaps and bath scrubs made with their pink Himalayan salt. Those items proved to be so popular that they are now in regular production. Ellie May’s Working Dog Soap is on the shelves at places like Tarrytown Pharmacy as well as East Austin’s new Prime Pet store. Ellie May even tags along on the deliveries. Weekdays, you can find Paula and Carla cooking up soaps, lotions and potions in the farmhouse kitchen, with the pleasant aromas wafting throughout the house. “We’ve told Glenn that he needs to build us a ‘she shack’ for our production so the house won’t always smell of essential oils,” Carla says, laughing. Sounds like a good plan, because it looks as though Springdale Handmade is here to stay. Visit springdalefarmaustin.com or call 512-386-8899. EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

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edible ENTERPRISE

THE BIG SHORT ORDER The Bursting of Austin’s Restaurant Bubble BY K R I ST I W I L L I S • P H OTO G RA P H Y BY M A RS H A L L W R I G H T

F

or the last decade, the names of Austin restaurants and

The new year kicked off with the stunning news that not one,

chefs have peppered the awards lists of national food mag-

but two of Austin’s fine-dining establishments had closed. Being

azines and organizations. From the headlines, it appears

named one of Bon Appétit’s best new restaurants in 2011 didn’t

that the local restaurant scene is smoking hot, but a deeper read

save Congress from shutting its doors to become part of Second

tells a different story. The average diner might not be aware, but

Bar + Kitchen, its more casual and popular sister restaurant next

some of those in the industry see a bubble bursting.

door. And having one of the most sought-after wine lists in the

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Southwest couldn’t keep French restaurant LaV afloat.

ropean restaurant located downtown, recently closed citing rent

Fine dining isn’t the only victim, though. The extensive list of

renewal at a much higher rate as the cause. While the owners of

recent closings shows that restaurants in all price ranges and with

Prelog’s have pledged to find a new location, other restaurants,

all types of cuisine have shuttered almost as fast as they’ve opened,

such as Tex-Mex icon El Azteca, couldn’t withstand the real estate

with an average of four closures to every five-and-a-half openings

pressure and is closing permanently. “Those who have now come

per month in 2016, judging by announcements of closures and

to term in their contracts are renewing in a much more robust

openings on local media hubs. Even regional and national chains

rental market in Austin, and are trying to figure out how to make

have fallen victim. When Cantina Laredo—one of the original an-

it work and maintain profitability,” says Jackson.

chor tenants of the 2nd Street District, and part of a successful regional chain—announced its closure, a wave of surprise rippled across the restaurant community, leaving many to wonder if Austin had suddenly hit some kind of peak restaurant saturation.

THE LABOR FACTOR Another factor at play is how all of this growth has affected the industry’s labor force. “Where do the cooks live who make eleven to twelve dollars an hour?” asks Griffiths. “[Workers] have to move further and further out.” The high cost of living near the city pushes

IT’S COMPLICATED “It’s complicated,” says Chef Jesse Griffiths of Dai Due, whose busi-

restaurant workers out into the suburbs, causing many to manage a

ness recently celebrated its 10-year anniversary and is edging up on

challenging, expensive or nonexistent way to commute—particular-

the third year at its brick-and-mortar restaurant. “When I first moved

ly if they’re forced to depend on Austin’s notoriously limited and in-

to town, Jeffrey’s was the big restaurant, then Emilia’s opened with

adequate public transportation services. Most buses and trains don’t

Will Packwood serving some of the best food Austin had seen,” Grif-

run late at night when kitchens close and staff are trying to get home.

fiths says. “The restaurant scene exploded in the last five years with

A dearth in back-of-the-house staffing is adversely affecting the

restaurants coming from other parts of the country. Rising waters

industry’s stability, as well. “It’s so expensive to live here now that

raise all ships, but what happens when the waters go back down?”

we have people interview who have been cooking for three months

This summer, the tide ebbed. Chad Dolezal, chef and co-owner

and want seventeen dollars per hour,” says Dolezal. “I have to tell

of The Hightower, an almost 3-year-old neighborhood restaurant

them ‘no’ because then they would make more than anyone here.”

in East Austin, realized that the normal summer slump started ear-

And the value of a culinary degree doesn’t seem to help. “It’s so

ly this year. “Summer is always slow,” says Dolezal. “But this year,

expensive to go to culinary school,” says Curren. “People graduate

we were doing our summer numbers in April, and summer was the

with a degree but no experience, so they start at the bottom and

worst in the last three years. We’ve been open long enough to learn

they’re saddled with debt. And when they do have the experience,

that we need to store some acorns for winter, but others won’t make

the dilemma is that you don’t need more kitchen managers, you need

it through this.”

more line cooks, but they don’t want to work for that pay.” Some

In a rapidly growing city that’s as populated, food-centric and

culinary grads even end up taking front-of-the-house positions be-

monied (if disproportionately) as Austin, what could be causing this

cause there’s often more money to be made—there are, literally, not

downward trend? Zack Northcutt, former executive chef of Swift’s

enough cooks in the kitchen. “Staffing is an issue all over the state,”

Attic, blames the slowdown on the overcrowded market. “A restau-

says Jackson. “The unemployment rate is low and the staffing costs

rant requires, on average, about a million dollars a year to make it,”

have gone up. As the costs go up, the expectation is higher for the

says Northcutt. “Can we support another thirty million a year if thirty

quality of the staff. In a tight market, that’s a challenge.”

new places open?” Andrew Curren, executive chef of ELM Restaurant

Recent changes in immigration rates from Mexico have also

Group, agrees—diners have so many choices that it’s difficult to build

taken a toll on staffing. Mexican immigrants have traditional-

a regular customer base. “This industry is built on repeat customers,”

ly played a huge and important role in Texas’ restaurant work-

says Curren. “The people who love your restaurant…instead of see-

force—comprising 11 percent of all restaurant workers nation-

ing them twice a month, you now see them twice each year.”

wide, according to the Bureau of Labor Statistics. But beginning

In addition to the crowded market, many Austin restaurants face increased rent renewals or sky-high rents from the get-go.

in 2012, immigration rates began to steadily decline, with more Mexicans now leaving the U.S. than moving here.

“Austin is experiencing unusual demand for commercial realty

To help steady the shifting sands, some restaurants have begun

and that’s reflected in the price almost everywhere in the city,”

to offer bonuses and expanded benefits to attract talent. “In Aus-

says Texas Restaurant Association CEO Richie Jackson. “It’s easy

tin, you can pretty much work at any restaurant you want if you

to see in downtown because of the congestion and the cranes, but

walk in with some talent, clean clothes and a good handshake,” says

it’s true in other parts of the city, as well.”

Curren. “We offer incentives to employees who get their friends to

“Some restaurants think they will get bigger sales and tick-

work for us, and we’re still understaffed.” Nicholas Yanes, execu-

et numbers by being closer to town in a hot spot, but that’s a

tive chef and partner of Juniper, decided he had to offer a higher

gamble,” says Northcutt. “One of the crazier rent proposals I saw

quality of life to minimize turnover for his new restaurant. “From

downtown would have needed to average $125 dollars per person

the beginning, we’ve provided benefits, family meals for the entire

to cover rent, not to mention all the other bills.”

front and back of the house each day, and we close two nights each

Barley Swine uprooted from its original South Lamar location to Burnet Road because of unreasonable rent, and Prelog’s, a Eu24

HEIRLOOM 2016

EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

week to give people time off,” says Yanes. “It costs me more money in the long run if my employees don’t have the right benefits.”


But even if restaurants are able to tackle the current staffing challenges, an upcoming change to the national overtime rules will put additional pressure on salary costs and scheduling. Previously, managers and assistant managers of all types—kitchen, floor, bar, etc.—were considered exempt employees who were not paid overtime. For example, an executive chef could ask a sous chef or chef de cuisine to put in a few extra hours without it impacting the budget. But the new ruling requires that any manager or assistant manager who makes less than $47,476 (just over $22 per hour) be paid overtime. Not only does the change put a tight squeeze on already slim margins, but could result in senior managers picking up the slack— regularly working 60 to 70 hours a week to make up the difference. “I broke down my pay and, for the hours I work, I’m making $3.50 to $4.50 an hour,” says Dolezal. “It’s the way this industry works.” WHAT’S NEXT So has the restaurant bubble in Austin completely burst? And what does the future hold? Despite myriad challenges, many re-

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main optimistic about the future. “Austin’s a good market,” says Jackson. “But given the costs of opening a restaurant today, and the challenges with labor, you have to be spot-on in your delivery. There isn’t much room for mistakes.” This appears to be true, and with a possible hike in the minimum wage on the horizon, no forecasted relief from rising rents and another three dozen restaurants rumored to open before the end of 2016, more closures are inevitable. “Austin’s not this city of gold,” says Griffiths. “We can only support so much.”

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25


edible MEMORIES

IN LINE WITH MARCELINO BY SA M A N D E RSO N - RA M OS

M

y family has been in

for customers to share and

the Texas Hill Coun-

use over and over. This would

try for at least five

have been the Kreuz Market

generations. While my Central

that Marcelino knew, but the

Texas roots run deep, it wasn’t

smells and tradition held with-

until I moved to Chicago for

in that folded butcher paper

college that I began to fully

clutched in his hands—right

appreciate my homeland. As it

alongside the saltines, white

turns out, I have a fairly signifi-

bread and pickled jalapeños—

cant reservoir of Texas pride. It

would have been, and are, the

wasn’t long after the move that

same as today.

I asked my parents to send me

I have only one picture of

a Texas belt buckle, for exam-

Marcelino. In it, he stands fac-

ple—something I would have

ing the camera with the stan-

made fun of while still living in

dard stiffness and blank gaze

Austin. The other thing I asked

we expect from antique pho-

my parents to send was box-

tography. He wears a light suit

es and boxes of sausage from

and has dark hair and a thick

Kreuz Market in Lockhart.

mustache. If Caldwell County

Since I was a child, and well

history and family lore align

before I was born, my fami-

dependably, we can assume

ly has visited Kreuz Market

he was probably a cotton pick-

regularly. Before the business

er and tenant farmer. If so, he

relocated to a larger facility,

would have worked very hard

it was near Lockhart’s town

in oppressive conditions—his

square, had walls caked black

skin growing darker with days,

from a century of smoke and

weeks and months of sun ex-

seemed held together by flimsy

posure. As difficult as it is for

doors. Heavy, long wooden tables carved deep with initials lined the

me to imagine his life, it would be more difficult for him to imag-

dining hallway that led from the front door to the pits in the back.

ine mine now. It’s the inevitable progress of change that makes the

The building was a time capsule—something I sensed even as a kid

tangible experiences shared with our ancestors so important. I am

standing in line with my dad for a piece of butcher paper covered

pleased to have a photo of Marcelino, but much more significant to

with sausage and white bread.

me is the knowledge that, at very different times in Central Texas,

My great grandfather, Marcelino Ramos, came to Lockhart from

he and I most likely walked through the same thin wooden doors of

Mexico sometime around 1915, 15 years after the original Kreuz Mar-

Kreuz Market, passed through the same blackened hallway that my

ket opened for business. Because of the size of Lockhart at that time

family would end up traversing for over a century, opened up butch-

and the food options available, chances are very good that Marceli-

er paper and fell in love with the same food. Much more is lost with

no would have been a customer. Current Kreuz Market pitmaster,

time than can be kept, which makes those things that remain all the

Roy Perez, says that in 1915, cooking barbecue would have been a

more precious—particularly when those things, such as a beloved

little different and more rustic—health codes regarding meat tem-

food, are among the real pleasures in life. It’s a proud connection I

perature and preparation were not so strictly enforced, for example.

can claim with those like Marcelino who came before me, a rich leg-

And there were still sharp knives attached to the tables by chains

acy based in memory and the elegant simplicity of tradition.

26

HEIRLOOM 2016

EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM


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27


The dried

Heirloom

Chiles of México

ancho

pasilla

de árbol

chipotle meco

cascabel

guajillo

pasilla mixe chilhuacle negro piquín morita

mulato

chilhuacle rojo


edible TERROIR

CHILES SECOS DE MÉXICO BY ILIANA DE LA VEGA AND ISABEL TORREALBA • PHOTOS AND GRAPHIC BY JENNA NORTHCUTT

B

otanically speaking, chiles are actually a fruit and belong

typically measures about 1 inch in diameter. It has a pleasant, nutty

to the genus Capsicum. Gastronomically, they are utilized

flavor when roasted and ground for salsas.

as a vegetable and, when dried and ground, as a condi-

ment. Based on archeological remains, we know that chiles were

CHIPOTLE

being consumed over 7,000 years ago in Oaxaca’s Guilá Naquitz

To create these chiles, jalapeños are left to ripen on the plant, picked

cave, and early ethnographers such as Alexander von Humboldt

and then smoked. Depending on the picking season, whether first,

compared the use of chiles in Mexico to the use of salt in Europe.

second or third, they are further categorized into mecos, moras and

When discussing chiles, it’s essential to talk about terroir. Fac-

moritas, respectively. A chipotle should be pliable and not rock-hard.

tors such as climate, altitude, humidity and type of soil have a

Its puree is dark brown with a sweet, smoky flavor and heat felt in

profound impact on the particular flavor profile of a chile, result-

the back of the throat.

ing in distinct variations in regional cuisines. Changing microclimates have produced an abundance of unique and rare heir-

DE ÁRBOL

loom chiles throughout Mexico—Oaxaca being home to the most

This chile is compact and slim in size, with a curved form. Its skin

numerous varieties of chiles in the world. Chiles are eaten fresh,

is a burnt orange-red color, smooth and brittle to the touch, and its

dried or smoked. The last two methods were originally used for

puree delivers a similar color and rich, sharp spiciness.

preservation, and they imbue the chiles with more complex flavors, depth and texture. Once dried or smoked, a chile acquires

GUAJILLO

completely unique characteristics and becomes a new specimen

This chile is bright red and can be found in an array of sizes. Its skin

with its own name. A dried poblano, for example, is known as an

is smooth and translucent and can be slightly brittle. When select-

“ancho chile.” And, a chipotle is, in fact, a smoke-dried jalapeño.

ing, try to find whole chiles with no discoloration on the skin. The

While the fresh and dried chiles are technically the same kind of

puree delivers a deep earthy-red color with medium spiciness and

pepper, they are not interchangeable because they have entirely

bright flavors.

different flavors. Dried chiles are often seeded and stemmed, dry-toasted in a

MULATO

hot skillet until fragrant, then softened in hot water before being

A mulato looks exactly like an ancho chile only it’s darker in color.

pureed alone or with other ingredients. The purees can be used

It has a mild sweetness and a deep earthy taste with a bitter under-

in a variety of ways: from sauces, spreads, dips, soups and stews,

tone. The puree is dark brown with complex flavors and medium

to rubs and marinades. Given the extensiveness of the subject and

spiciness.

how difficult it can be to find some heirloom chiles in the U.S., let’s focus on the dried chiles available to us here at home and

PASILLA

their unique flavor profiles.

This long chile is known as a “chilaca” when fresh. Once dried, its skin is wrinkly with a deep black tone. The puree is very dark brown

ANCHO

with a reddish hue, medium to very spicy and delivers deep and

Ancho chiles are dried poblanos that tend to be 4 to 5 inches long

complex layers of flavors that range from earthy to smoky to tart.

with wide shoulders and a pointed tail. Their skin is extremely wrinkled and dark burgundy in color. Always look for un-torn, soft and

CHILE PIQUÍN

aromatic chiles. Pureed anchos are brownish red with an almost

These guys are small but very spicy. The pepper varies in shape and

sweet, raisin-like rich taste and a mildly bitter aftertaste.

can be triangular, round or cylindrical. It’s generally ground to powder instead of pureed and used sparingly as a condiment because of

CASCABEL

its fire. The skin is shiny and the color ranges from orange to deep

This pepper’s name refers to the rattling sound it makes when shak-

red. In Mexico, ground chile piquín is commonly mixed with salt and

en. It’s a small, round chile with a brownish-red, smooth skin that

used to dress fruits and vegetables, along with lime juice. EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

HEIRLOOM 2016

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small plates + craft cocktails

30

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CHILCOSTLE This rare, smooth-skinned orange-red chile is one of the main ingredients found in mole amarillo (“yellow mole”) from Oaxaca, and delivers bright, earthy, spicy flavors. It’s becoming increasingly hard to find because of the relatively small number of growers and the high market price resulting from high demand. CHILHUACLE NEGRO, AMARILLO AND ROJO These chiles are only grown in Oaxaca and are consumed primarily after they’re dried. They are compact, wide triangles with smooth skin and deliver spicy and complex flavors to the unique dishes of Oaxacan cuisine. These three chiles have been primordial for the moles of the state but are just as rare as the chilcostle chile. PASILLA MIXE OR OAXAQUEÑO This regional chile is solely used for Oaxacan cooking and comes from the mountainous Mixe region of Oaxaca. It’s smoked and dried with encino wood and has a unique smokiness and heat. Many chefs in Mexico have lauded this chile as the best of the country due to its deep and complex flavor. Its shiny, wrinkly skin is dark burgundy-red. It is, above all, our favorite chile to use at our restaurant, El Naranjo.

ANCHO AND GUAJILLO ADOBO RUB Makes 1½ quarts ½ white onion 2 Roma tomatoes, whole 4 ancho chiles 5 guajillo chiles 1 garlic clove ½ t. cumin powder ½ t. marjoram

½ t. dried oregano ¾ c. water 2 T. olive oil 2 t. vinegar 1 t. salt 1 t. black pepper

In a cast-iron skillet or on a comal set over medium heat, dry-roast the onion and tomatoes until lightly charred, then set aside. Remove the seeds and stems from the chiles and, using tongs, dry-roast them the same way until fragrant. Place the chiles in a bowl and cover with hot water. Soak for 10 minutes, discard the soaking liquid then transfer to a blender. Add the onion, tomatoes, garlic, cumin, marjoram, oregano and water to the blender and process to get a smooth mixture. Strain the mixture through a mesh strainer, if needed. Heat the oil in the skillet and fry the chile mixture for 5 minutes, then add the vinegar, salt and pepper. Use the adobo rub to coat chicken, shrimp, fish, tofu, pork or portabella mushrooms before grilling or baking in the oven.

TOMATILLO AND MORITA SALSA Makes 1½ cups 4 dried morita chiles, wiped clean 10 medium tomatillos, husks removed, rinsed

1 garlic clove Salt, to taste

Discard the stems, seeds and veins of the chiles and soak them in hot water for 15 minutes. Discard the cooking liquid and set the chiles aside. In a medium saucepan, cook the tomatillos and garlic clove with enough water to barely cover until the color changes—about 8 minutes (do not let the tomatillos burst, though). Do not drain. Set aside to cool. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the tomatillos and garlic to a blender along with the chiles and process to a smooth salsa. If needed, add some of the liquid from the saucepan to achieve the desired texture. Season with salt. Use the salsa to top enchiladas, grilled meats or tacos, or use as a dip for chips.

ANCHO RELLENO WITH CHICKEN PICADILLO AND TOMATO CREAM Serves 8 For the chiles: 8 large ancho chiles 1 qt. water ¼ piloncillo cone With a sharp knife, cut open the chiles from the side and carefully remove the seeds but leave the stem intact. In a saucepan, bring the water and piloncillo to a boil and stir to dissolve. Reduce the heat to medium-low, add the chiles, cook for 3 minutes, cover and remove from the heat. Allow the chiles to soak for 15 minutes or until soft, then place the chiles on paper towels to dry and set aside. For the picadillo: ¼ c. olive oil 1 c. white onion, chopped 2 lb. chicken meat, finely diced 3 garlic cloves, minced 2 lb. Roma tomatoes, finely chopped ½ c. black raisins ½ c. blanched almonds, roughly chopped ½ c. small capers 1 t. freshly ground Mexican cinnamon ½ t. ground cloves ¼ c. fresh parsley, chopped Salt and pepper, to taste In a large Dutch oven, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the onion and sauté for 3 minutes. Add the chicken and fry it until almost cooked—about 4 to 6 minutes. Add the garlic and sauté briefly, then add the tomatoes and cook until they change color. Add the rest of the ingredients and season with salt and pepper, to taste. Cook for 10 minutes more, then remove from the heat and set aside. For the salsa: ½ white onion, cut into chunks 2 garlic cloves 1 lb. Roma tomatoes, cut into quarters 2 T. olive oil 2 bay leaves 1 c. heavy cream Salt and pepper, to taste Place the onion, garlic and tomatoes in a blender and blend to make a smooth puree. Heat the oil in a medium saucepan, add the tomato mixture and fry until it changes color. Add the bay leaves, cream and salt and pepper. Reduce the heat and keep the salsa warm until serving time. Heat the oven to 325°. Stuff each prepared chile with some of the picadillo and line the chiles in a baking dish sprayed with nonstick spray. Cover with aluminum foil and bake until heated through— about 15 minutes. To plate, pool some of the salsa on each plate and place a stuffed chile on top. EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

HEIRLOOM 2016

31


edible ENTERPRISE

NEW DIGS BY ST EV E W I LSO N P H OTO G R A P H Y BY M E L A N I E G R I Z Z E L

C

hris Winslow of It’s About Thyme is in the middle of explaining all the red tape behind moving his entire garden center to a new location when a frantic customer named Jim

bursts into his office. “I have this pergola out in the olive orchard and I tried to plant grapevines on the top but they’re just burning up!” says Jim. “What would you suggest to grow? Wisteria?”

room left over to keep on growing the plants they sell, a rarity in the

“No, no!” Chris says, much more animated now than he was about

garden-center biz that has helped make their reputation. This home-

construction costs and city regulations. “Wisteria would eventually

grown floral output includes several native Texas perennials, trees,

destroy the pergola! I’d do the native Texas crossvine.”

herbs and vegetable plants—including 30 different kinds of peppers

“What’s that?” Jim asks, causing Chris to spring from his desk like

and 50 to 70 types of tomatoes in any given season.

Superman. “I’ll show you! Just happen to have one out here.” To me,

Setting up shop at Marbridge will be a coming-home of sorts for

he says “I’ll be right back,” then he rushes out the door. For Chris,

Chris, who worked at the residential care center for mentally chal-

plants and customers come first—especially if he has to choose be-

lenged adults after graduating from University of Texas in 1971 with

tween them or discussing a loathsome topic such as the forced relo-

a degree in anthropology. As the foundation’s “horticultural thera-

cation of his beloved business.

pist,” he employed 40 Marbridge residents before retiring in 1998

A developer plans to scrunch a large number of homes onto the

to partner up at the herb shop with Diane (whom he met when she

plot along Manchaca Road that It’s About Thyme has grown into

sold herbs to Marbridge). He expects to employ residents again after

for over two decades. But unlike most stories of Austin develop-

the move, and the foundation, in turn, plans to sell the fruits (and

ers pushing out small businesses, this one has a happy ending. Just

vegetables) of their labor through an on-site farmers market.

around the corner, the Marbridge Foundation has set aside space for

Although originally told to move out by this past January, Chris

Chris and his wife Diane to build bigger, better digs. While it’s hard

and Diane have been able to stay month-to-month while the land-

to imagine an institution like It’s About Thyme literally uproot-

owner and developer sort out details. They’ve used this reprieve to

ing itself to relocate five greenhouses, hundreds of pots, chickens,

plan a seamless move-in where they can open the new location and

mannequins, an old bathtub and its beloved outdoor train set, the

close the old one without losing a day of business. “The plan is to

Winslows have done it before, if on a smaller scale. Marbridge will

keep the employees employed,” says Chris.

be the fourth spot on which the Winslows have set up shop since

Though the impending construction costs and the absence of a

1980, if you count the backyard where Diane launched It’s About

firm move-out date from the landlord have left the Winslows living

Thyme as an herb garden. “I’m not afraid at all,” Chris says of the

in what Chris calls “the world of the nebulous,” he shows few, if any,

move, which will even include the landscaping—from the fishponds

signs of worry. Back at our meeting, when Chris doesn’t come back

to many of the trees. “Everything’s going. Anything that can be

to the office after a few minutes, I step out to find him lecturing Jim

picked up and moved will be moved.”

about how grass tends to like manure compost more than vegetative

As the Winslows work to make the new space as familiar as pos-

compost. “People have been putting manure in their lawns forever!”

sible, they’re also eager to branch out and experiment now that they

Chris says. When Jim breaks out a young lychee tree from his car,

have room. They’ve already mapped out where 100 to 200 olive trees

Chris’ eyes light up. “Let me show you what I’ve got in here!” he

will go, as well as test orchards to show people how to plant and

says, excitedly leading Jim into a greenhouse. Talking more about

tend fruit trees. Likewise, they plan to work with Texas A&M on

the upcoming move will simply have to wait.

a plot of grapevines as part of the school’s ongoing research project on grapes in Texas. The Winslows expect to still have plenty of 32

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For more information, visit itsaboutthyme.com or call 512-280-1192.


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cooking FRESH

AN HEIRLOOM AND HERITAGE

FEAST BY W I L L PAC KWO O D • P H OTO G RA P H Y BY J E N N A N O RT H CU T T


W

e hear the words “heirloom” and “heritage” in reference to ingredients, but what do they mean? “Heirloom” refers to a variety of edible plants that are grown from

open-pollinated seeds (seeds that are pollinated naturally from insects, birds, wind, etc.) and have been passed down from generation to generation for 50 to 100 years. Heirloom fruit and vegetable varieties have never been industrially grown, hybridized or genetically modified. The produce we buy from grocery stores is most often grown by large corporate farms using modern industrial agriculture. Years of industrialized farming have reduced most produce down to only a few varietals that have proven to be high-yielding, shelf-stable, aesthetically pleasing and yet, many agree, flavor-compromised. “Heritage” refers to genetically distinct animals traditionally raised for meat. Heritage breeds of pigs, cattle, sheep, rabbits, fowl and poultry tend to be more resistant to disease, better suited to pasture and far more flavorful than commercialized breeds. Animals used for industrial agriculture are bred to produce more eggs and milk, gain weight faster and thrive in a confined space. With the introduction of industrialized farming to America in the early 1970s, and its use of a limited number of species, thousands of heirloom varieties and heritage animal species have died off. Genetic diversity is necessary to ensure the security of our food supply; the fewer breeds we raise and crops we grow, the more susceptible the ones grown are to disease. Yet, it’s not enough for farmers to raise heritage animals and grow heirloom fruits and vegetables—we all need to eat them. Preserving heirloom varieties and heritage species is also part of preserving our culture and social heritage. Most people agree that the number-one advantage of heirloom produce and heritage meats is flavor. Many heirloom items tend to be misshapen, have unusual coloring and can be more expensive because of seasonality and lower yields. The best way to avoid some of the price increases is to shop seasonally and locally at area farmers markets. Availability of heirloom and heritage items varies greatly from season to season, so creating relationships with local farmers can help you plan for what will likely be available in the

HEIRLOOM SPIGARELLO GREENS WITH PANCETTA, GOAT CHEESE, DRIED FIGS AND MUSTARD VINAIGRETTE

coming weeks. However, there may be availability gaps in some products because of weather conditions, so nothing is a guarantee.

Serves 6

Heirloom and heritage items are also considered truly clean foods by many people. Never being hybridized or genetically modified, and usually grown or raised without pesticides, herbicides, fertilizers, hormones and/or antibiotics, heirlooms and heritage foods are a potential alternative for consumers with food reactions and food sensitivities. For a chef, using heirloom and heritage items is a way of celebrating the seasons; a way of paying homage to the chefs, farmers, moms, dads, grandmothers and grandfathers that came before us;

1 shallot, peeled and finely minced 1 T. strong Dijon mustard 2 T. white-wine vinegar 4 T. extra-virgin olive oil Salt and pepper, to taste 2 bunches B5 Farms heirloom spigarello, trimmed and washed ¼ c. pancetta, diced, rendered ¼ c. fresh goat cheese, crumbled 7 dried figs, stemmed, quartered

and a way to share something special with our customers, friends and families. It’s hard not to feel connected with the products I choose to include on my menus. Heirloom fruits and vegetables grown by local farmers, and heritage breeds of animals raised humanely without the use of unnecessary antibiotics and hormones, are products I feel proud to use.

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In a small bowl, whisk together the first 4 ingredients and season to taste with salt and pepper. In a large bowl, combine the prepared dressing and the spigarello and toss to coat evenly. Allow the salad to rest for 3 to 5 minutes. Garnish with the pancetta, cheese and figs, and serve.


HERITAGE HEN BALLOTINE WITH COUNTRY HAM, COLLARD GREENS AND PUMPKIN Serves 6 1 Tejas Heritage Farm New Hampshire Red or Delaware heritage hen 1 bunch collard greens, trimmed, washed, stalks removed ½ c. peeled, julienned pumpkin ¼ lb. country ham, thinly sliced 2 garlic cloves, peeled, thinly sliced Salt and pepper, to taste 2 T. grapeseed oil Using a sharp knife, make a cut down the back of the chicken. Using your hands, remove the skin in one solid piece by sliding your fingers under the skin on each side to loosen it all around, then pulling it off like you’re taking off a coat. Trim the piece of skin—removing any excess fat—and set aside. Remove the breasts, legs and thighs from the carcass, remove all bones and set the meat aside. Meanwhile, in a large pot, bring 1½ to 2 gallons of heavily salted water to a boil. Blanch the collard greens until tender, then drain the greens and shock in ice water. Remove the collards from the ice water, then squeeze in paper towels to remove excess water. Lay the collard greens in a single layer on a clean towel and set aside. In a small pan, bring a quart of fresh, salted water to a boil and blanch the pumpkin until just tender. Cover a clean work surface with plastic wrap and spread out the chicken skin, outside down, on the plastic wrap. Cover the chicken skin with a single layer of collard greens then cover the collards with a single layer of the country ham. Place the chicken breasts in the center, season with salt and pepper, top with the sliced garlic and blanched pumpkin and cover with the remaining chicken meat pieces. Roll up the skin to form a long cylinder, wrap the cylinder with the plastic wrap and twist and tie the ends to create a tight roulade. Poach the wrapped ballotine in lightly simmering water until fully cooked—about 20 minutes. Remove the ballotine from the poaching liquid, shock in ice water then refrigerate overnight or up to 3 days. For serving, heat a large sauté pan over a medium flame. Remove the plastic wrap from the ballotine and dry thoroughly. Add the oil to the pan and brown the ballotine until golden and heated through. Remove from the pan, slice with a sharp knife and serve warm.

ROASTED HERITAGE RED WATTLE COPPA WITH ROSEMARY, GARLIC AND FENNEL Serves 6 1 3-lb. Salt & Time Red Wattle coppa (ask the butcher to truss for roasting) 1 T. coarsely ground fennel seeds Salt and pepper, to taste Extra-virgin olive oil, as needed 5 sprigs fresh rosemary 1 garlic bulb, cut in half crosswise 2 bulbs fresh fennel, trimmed, washed, quartered Heat the oven to 400°. Season the pork generously with the ground fennel, salt and pepper. Heat a large sauté pan over medium-high heat, lightly oil the pork, place it in the hot pan and brown it evenly on all sides. Meanwhile, using the rosemary, garlic and fennel, create a nest in a roasting pan. Transfer the pork to the roasting pan and place it in the heated oven. Allow the pork to roast to an internal temperature of 140°. Remove the pork from the oven, tent loosely with foil and allow to rest for 15 minutes. Carve the pork and serve with the roasted rosemary, garlic and fennel. EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

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HEIRLOOM VIOLETTA DI SICILIA CAULIFLOWER WITH RAS EL HANOUT, HARISSA AND YOGURT Serves 4–6 1 head B5 Farms Violetta di Sicilia cauliflower, trimmed, washed, florets separated ½ c. organic plain yogurt 1 T. ground ras el hanout (or substitute garam masala) 1 T. harissa 2 T. extra-virgin olive oil Salt and pepper, to taste Heat the oven to 375°. Whisk together the yogurt, ras el hanout, harissa, olive oil and salt and pepper. Add the cauliflower and toss to coat evenly. Transfer the cauliflower to an oiled sheet pan and place in the oven. Allow the cauliflower to roast until tender and browned—about 20 minutes. Plate and serve warm.

BRAISED HEIRLOOM SOLEIL WAX BEANS WITH TOMATO, GUANCIALE AND CHILIES Serves 6 2 T. extra-virgin olive oil ¼ lb. diced guanciale 1 small yellow onion, peeled, diced 1 garlic clove, peeled, minced 2 Fresno chilies, minced 1 lb. very ripe heirloom tomatoes, washed, chopped (when not in season, substitute 1 28-oz. can peeled, whole San Marzano tomatoes, drained, chopped) 1 lb. Animal Farm Soleil wax beans, trimmed, washed ¼ c. water Salt and pepper, to taste Heat the olive oil in a large pot over a medium-high flame. Add the guanciale and allow to render until lightly browned. Add the onion, garlic, chilies and a small amount of salt and pepper and allow to sweat until tender—about 3 to 5 minutes. Add the tomatoes, beans and water, bring to a simmer and continue cooking until beans are tender—about 12 minutes. Adjust the seasoning and serve warm. 38

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HEIRLOOM KIEFFER PEAR GALETTE Makes 1 galette For the piecrust dough: 1¼ c. all-purpose flour 10 T. butter, cold, ½-inch dice ¼ c. shredded farmhouse cheddar Sea salt, to taste ¼ c. cold water In the bowl of a food processor, combine the flour and butter and pulse several times to form a course meal. Add in the shredded cheese, salt and water and pulse 3 to 5 times more to form a crumbly dough. Turn out the dough onto a clean work surface and lightly knead to form a homogeneous dough. Flatten the dough to a 1-inch-thick disk, wrap tightly with plastic wrap and store in the refrigerator until needed. For the galette: 1½ c. pecans, lightly toasted 1½ T. all-purpose flour ¾ c. brown sugar ¼ c. whole butter, room temperature 1 egg 1 egg white 1 t. vanilla extract Zest from 1 lemon 1 T. bourbon Pinch sea salt 3 Boggy Creek Farm heirloom Kieffer pears, peeled, cored, sliced very thinly 1 egg yolk 2 T. heavy cream ¼ c. farmhouse cheddar, shredded In a food processor, grind the pecans and flour to a fine meal. Add the brown sugar, butter, egg, egg white, vanilla, zest, bourbon and salt and continue processing until smooth. Transfer to a bowl and refrigerate overnight. When you’re ready to make the galette, heat the oven to 375°. Roll out the piecrust dough to a ¼-inch thickness and place on a large sheet pan. Top the crust with the pecan mixture and spread to within 3 inches of the edge. Layer the pears in a shingle pattern and

fold up the edges of the crust. Whisk together the yolk and cream, brush the mixture all around the edge of the galette and sprinkle on the cheese. Bake the galette for 20 minutes, or until golden and baked through. Remove from the oven and allow to thoroughly cool before slicing. Serve at room temperature with whipped cream or vanilla ice cream.


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COOKS at home

TIEN HO BY ST EV E W I LSO N • P H OTO G RA P H Y BY T RAV I S H A L L M A R K

T

ien Ho has a double grill on his patio and he’s not afraid to

store bars. For Ho, staying on top of this massive enterprise is far

use it. You can’t keep him away from the twin flames, even

more exciting than running a single restaurant, especially since

on this sweltering, early-fall Saturday in Austin…in the

he’s been there and done that.

direct sun…at high noon. “Grilling gives the food that layer of fla-

A Houston native by way of Vietnam, Ho graduated from the Uni-

vor and texture you can’t get cooking indoors,” he says as he lov-

versity of Texas at Austin with degrees in history and philosophy

ingly nudges the Korean-inspired marinated chicken thighs, baby

and five minors. (“I just loved school,” he says with a laugh.) But

onions, broccoli, kale and savoy cabbage into charred perfection.

when he put aside his planned Ph.D. in history to try cooking at Aus-

As a chef who’s created and run top restaurants the world over,

tin’s dearly departed The Belgian Restaurant, there was no turning

Ho could just as easily whip up something in the air-conditioned

back. Ho moved on to the kitchen of the Driskill Hotel before relo-

kitchen of his Allandale home—an open, airy space he shares

cating to New York City in 2002, where he did a stint as the saucier

with his wife and fellow restaurant veteran Kate Wallace, daugh-

at Café Boulud before helping Gray Kunz launch Café Gray in 2005.

ter Ruby and a very lazy French bulldog named Bun. But since he

Loving the techniques of fine dining but tired of its exclusivity, Ho

returned to Austin in January to become the first-ever global vice

found a compatriot in soon-to-be-famous David Chang. “We want-

president of culinary and hospitality for Whole Foods Market, the

ed to strip away the bells and whistles and make something more

only meals he wants to make at home are those he can throw over

approachable,” says Ho. Spearheading Ssäm Bar and Má Pêche as a

a fire. “This is how I turn my brain off,” he says—flipping an imag-

partner and chef in Chang’s Momofuku restaurant group, Ho earned

inary switch at his temple.

New York Magazine’s praise as one of five Best New Chefs of 2011.

This evening, Ho has invited over his senior staff so they can

By this point, Ho seemed poised to become another New York

all turn off their brains together—a must when your job is to over-

rock-star chef like his friends. He got French bistro Montmartre

see the prepared foods and bakery operations of 450 stores in 12

off the ground with partner Gabe Stulman and considered launch-

regions (including overseas). Ho picked much of his team from

ing another restaurant a year later. Instead, Ho became…a hotel

the restaurant world, which may sound like poor preparation for

executive? He’d already been working—and loving—freelance

working at a grocery, until you consider that Whole Foods Market

work between chef jobs as a consultant for a few restaurants, and

is essentially a giant restaurant chain. The company sells several

he just couldn’t pass up the offer from Morgan Hotel Group to

billions of dollars in prepared foods annually and runs 180 in-

turn its 13 boutique hotels around the world into food destinations. EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

HEIRLOOM 2016

43


A year into the project, Morgan was about to change ownership and Ho didn’t know if the new regime still needed his unique services, but Whole Foods Market certainly did. Signing on with the corporation not only meant a challenge Ho relished, but a return

THE LEANING PEAR H ill Country -inspired C uisine

home for his whole family—Wallace grew up here and the couple was thrilled for the opportunity to raise Ruby just down the street from extended family. One of Ho’s first acts as head of the empire was to create a simple food truck. After strapping on an apron to dream up some sandwiches with the catering department, Ho sent the Tartinette truck on its way just in time for SXSW in March. Through Tartinette and its successors—the pupusa-centric Dina’s Pupuseria and breakfast-focused Scrambled—Ho basically created Whole Foods Market test kitch-

Unique. Well Crafted. Delicious.

111 river road, Wimberley, texas 512-847-pear | leaningpear.Com

ens on wheels. The effort underscores his dual mission to unify the stores but also to encourage the individualism they all enjoy. One minute he’s partnering with noted chef Erik Bruner-Yang on the ramen-themed Paper Horse at the Foggy Bottom Whole Foods Market in Washington, D.C., and the next he’s brainstorming with different stores on a universal “pasta concept” for every single Whole Foods Market in the world. “We want each store to do its own thing,” says Ho. “We’re just here to connect them together.” Back in the cool comfort of his dining room, with “Islands in the Stream” wafting from the speakers, Ho and his team sit down to the grilled feast. Talk turns to weekend plans, inter-office karaoke com-

EXPERIENCE A LITTLE BIT OF SPAIN HERE IN AUSTIN

petitions and, these being food people, a little restaurant gossip. Ho

1500 South Lamar Blvd. ⁄ 512-473-2211

has no problem calling this gathering “team building,” but truth is,

barlataaustin.com

he’d hang out with these folks anytime. “I’m not really a corporate guy,” he says.

TIEN HO’S “TURN OFF THE BRAIN” CHICKEN THIGHS

Tastings. Platters. Gifts.

Serves 6–8 6–8 skinless chicken thighs, deboned 16 oz. apple juice 4 oz. soy sauce

½ medium onion, thinly sliced 3 garlic cloves, sliced 2 t. ground black pepper 2 t. sesame oil

Combine all of the ingredients in a zippered plastic bag or lidded bowl and place in the refrigerator overnight. The next day, remove the chicken, discard the marinade and grill the thighs until cooked all the way through— about 8 to 10 minutes on each side. Slice the thighs and lightly sprinkle with Maldon sea salt. Serve warm alongside grilled seasonal vegetables.

4220 Duval Street | (512) 531-9610

Visit www.AntonellisCheese.com EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

HEIRLOOM 2016

45


edible TRADITIONS

MAPPING THE TRUE TEXAS HOLD ’EM BY L ES M CG E H E E

I

f you want to read a book about Neapolitan pizza, Chinese dump-

taco land in our behemoth state that has not one but FIVE distinct

lings or American hamburgers, you have many choices. But

taco regions—each with its own unique influences, history, flavors

where’s the book that maps and makes sense of the societal, cul-

and magic.

tural and familial tradiciones behind the various tacos of Texas? It’s

This is a pleasantly unusual book—more of an inter-

true, attempting to reconcile the taco begats of our great state would

view-cum-travel guide with recipes, really—peppered with the back

be a daunting task—you’d need full access to the anthro-tacological

stories and voices of those who’ve dedicated much of their lives and

and historical trans-Hispanic-Mexican-Tejano-Latino records, as

energies to tacos, but also with answers to more than a few burn-

well as a culinary compadre-circuit compass and probably a Nuevo

ing taco mysteries. Need to know who to call to get your taquería

Americano GPS to figure it all out.

blessed, where to get a taco bigger than your head or how to find

Luckily, we don’t have to worry about any of that because

the mythical La Calle del Tacos? Rayo and Neece have you covered.

self-appointed Texas Taco Professors Mando Rayo and Jarod

We caught up with the professors recently at Joe’s Bakery &

Neece have done all the work for us with their new book, “The

Coffee Shop, where they sat at a table pretending to read the menu.

Tacos of Texas.” In the process, they have even established their

Joe’s was packed, as usual, and the scene felt like a family reunion,

own official Texas Taco Council—an information-sharing organi-

with people circulating and greeting one another. Rayo and Neece

zation that currently includes members from 10 Texas cities. Now,

were so comfortable here that they may as well have been at their

readers have a fighting chance at fully understanding the lay of the

own kitchen tables.

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After publishing your first book, “Austin Breakfast Tacos,”

were embarrassed and ashamed that they had bean tacos at school

what was it like to pitch “The Tacos of Texas” book?

because their family couldn’t afford the white bread and bologna.

Neece: UT Press approached us! Yeah…we didn’t have to pitch it.

Now, tacos are everywhere and sometimes even “hipster.” But

We were really excited to work with them, and then we thought: This is more than a book! We just committed to touring 10 taco

in their own families, tacos were there when they gathered, and taught from abuelitas to children—in backyards and kitchens and

cities!

cafés—and it keeps going. Tacos are part of the story of Texas.

Your book is so much more than a list of top taco places; it’s

Did geography, city council rule or history do more to shape

about the people and the taco stories of multiple regions. How

the taco regions?

did you identify the regions and the iconic tacos involved?

Rayo: All of those things, yes: what part of Mexico a family has

And how did you find the people who told you these stories?

their roots in…when they became Americanos…the size of the

Neece: Mando was always telling me about the tacos in El Paso;

state and if the area was kinda isolated, like El Paso and deep

our friend is always talking about the tacos in the Valley. I grew up dipping tortillas in queso in East Texas. I’d visit my friend’s abuela in Fort Worth who made the BEST chorizo—we were al-

in the Valley. And climate! You know, in El Paso you’d butcher a pig in the winter and keep it cut up or in your little casita or something so it would last as long as possible, so we had amazing

ways comparing tacos and where they came from.

carnitas. In the Valley, they have cattle ranches and amazing bar-

Rayo: A lot of it had to do with the Texas Taco Council. We would

where they locate, yet the way it works is that some taquero is

ask the members who we should talk to in a city. Then those people would take us somewhere for a unique taco—maybe a café, maybe a kitchen, maybe a backyard! And then those people would introduce us to another taco and another—we left no taco untouched!

bacoa. And city rules affect how the taco businesses operate and going to decide to set up and make tacos—maybe even that same day—and they’re gonna do it one way or the other. They WILL be making tacos. And yeah, industry affects it like the [taco] trucks going to job sites in Houston or all the white work trucks going through the drive-thrus in West Texas.

How did you choose between writing about legendary Mexican food restaurants or new or trending taqueros (taco slingers)? Neece: It wasn’t about the cafés or the chefs, usually. It was more about the people and the tacos. And because of what we’re interested in, people treated us like family. They welcomed us into their homes and told us their personal stories of those tacos… their childhoods and traditions.

How secure is our taco future? Rayo: Look, taqueros are out to show you how THEIR tacos should be, right off their grill in the backyard…the way their family did it or at a puesto [taco stand] or WHEREVER. And in the cafés…you know how Texans are! A Tejano will go back and get his favorite same taco plate over and over again forever! That’ll NEVER change.

Rayo: You know, it’s about the tacos that have been in that family for generations. People were excited and passionate about telling the story of their family tacos. In many cases, as little kids, they

And with that, Taco Professors Rayo and Neece flagged down the waiter at Joe’s and ordered what they always do.

THE TACO MILE A.K.A. LA CALLE DEL TACO Excerpted from The Tacos of Texas (copyright © 2016 by Mando Rayo and Jarod Neece), with photographs by Marco Torres, published by the University of Texas Press.

Y

ou’ve heard of the Taco Mile, right? You go down to the Valley and somewhere in one of the smaller towns, you’ll see taco stand after taco stand after taco stand. Yup, that’s

what our taco sources told us. So we kept looking for the Taco Mile. We heard it was in Mission and right outside McAllen. We asked around, in Spanish, English, Spanglish, in whistles (yes, some of us Mexicans communicate by whistling to each other), but, alas, no Taco Mile to be found. But we did not despair. In fact, we were told by Rolando Curiel, the owner of El Ultimo Taco, about one place that sells way more tacos than they do and it’s near a bunch of taquerias. So after a long day of multiple interviews between Brownsville and McAllen, we were off to find a place called Herradura’s. It was now 11:00 p.m., and we were just south of McAllen on FM 2061/South Jackson Road. It was EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

HEIRLOOM 2016

47


dark, it was dingy, and it was the country. But then we came across a

sations in Español with the locals, and drive-in style service. You can

taco stand made out of aluminum carports. Then another one. And

park, order, and eat in your trocka or sit under the carport with your

another one. To our left was Herradura’s, which was a restaurant

friends and familia. Sure, there were some stray dogs and dust from

that looked like an old unfinished movie set. To our right was a dirt

the parking lot, but it was so worth it. You had your pick of bistec,

parking lot with neon signs and a row of taco stands. Ahhhh. We had

alambres, carne asada, al pastor—all estilo Mexicano. We had some

found the Taco Mile!

of the best tacos at El Chilango Vago, a Mexico City-style taco stand

As we came to learn, it was not called the Taco Mile but La Calle del Taco. No wonder no one knew what we were talking about. Anyway, La Calle del Taco is a row of taco stands made of aluminum

(or carport, in this case). So if you’re ever in the Valley, want to hit up some amazing tacos, and are feeling a little bit adventurous, look for La Calle del Taco.

carports, with seating for the whole family, including neon lighting, backed up next to a trailer. The amenities were limitless! Free

Editor’s note: Join us for an evening with Mando and Jarod to talk

charro beans while you wait, salsa bar with really hot chiles, conver-

more about their book at BookPeople on Thursday, Nov. 10 at 7 p.m.

TACOS DE CHICHARRÓN WITH SPICY CABBAGE By Melissa Guerra, Melissa Guerra Latin Kitchen Market My favorite taco is chicharrónes (pork rinds) en salsa. Chicharrónes are bacon’s naughty cousin, the one the family doesn’t talk about. Always ready for a party, chicharrónes hang out at the local gas station or convenience store, ready to go. “Anytime, anywhere”—that’s their motto. And when we are caught with a bag… well, you should take a picture of that guilty face. You know you love ’em. So why keep pork love a secret? Gimme some skin and eat ’em out loud. —Melissa Guerra Serves 6

CHICHARRÓNES By Olga and Santiago Garcia, Clint, TX I raised a pig every year for butchering to make chicharrónes with the rind, carnitas, and asados. It was a winter tradition; our family and friends would get together. It became a festive tradition with our wooden stove, food and music. Over the years, I’ve practiced to make the perfect chicharrónes. —Santiago Garcia

1 c. finely shredded cabbage 1 small can sliced jalapeños 1 lb. fresh tomatoes 1 clove garlic 4 tsp. vegetable oil Salt Pepper 1 oz, chicharrónes (pork rinds) 8 corn tortillas, heated ¼ c. crumbled queso fresco Place the shredded cabbage in a small glass bowl. Pour liquid from the can of jalapeños over the cabbage, toss well, and allow to marinate for about 10 minutes, while you prepare the tacos.

Makes about 100 tacos 60 lbs. pork rind 3 TB. salt ½ gallon water Cut pork rind into 2 x 2-inch squares. Place in a cazo and turn on medium heat. At the beginning of the cooking process, mix salt and water in separate container and pour into cazo. Turn pieces of pork rinds constantly with large wooden paddle for at least 2 hours until crisp and fluffy. Take chicharrónes out of the liquid lard left in the cazo. Place them into a cardboard box lined with paper towels and let cool.

Fill a 2-quart saucepan with water and bring to a boil. Add the whole tomatoes and allow to simmer for 1 minute. Remove the tomatoes and discard the water. Peel the tomatoes, cut in half, and remove the seeds. Add the tomato pieces to a blender, along with the clove of garlic. Make a puree. Add the vegetable oil to a 9-inch skillet, and heat for about 1 minute over a medium flame. Add the tomato puree, and simmer for about 3 to 5 minutes until the sauce is reduced. Divide the chicharrónes between all of the tortillas. Top with the warm sauce, sliced jalapeños, marinated shredded cabbage, and crumbled queso fresco.

Excerpted from The Tacos of Texas (copyright © 2016 by Mando Rayo and Jarod Neece), with photographs by Marco Torres, published by the University of Texas Press.

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HEIRLOOM 2016

49


WHAT WE’RE DRINKING

WITH HEIRLOOM BY T E R RY T H O M PSO N -A N D E RSO N

F

all, with its promised advent of breezy,

seems to be in order. In the beer world, gold-

cooler weather, heralds a time to fire up

en ale is often considered to be the equivalent

the ovens to prepare the hearty dishes

of chardonnay—smooth, a tiny bit sweet and

of the season. Leaving behind the lighter, leaf-

absolutely delicious with chicken. Try Alamo

ier fare of summer also means a switch from

Golden Ale from San Antonio’s Alamo Beer

light, summery beverages to bolder, often

Company. It has a good balance of sweet malts

more complex, libations that warm us as they

and hops, a lovely little hint of lemon (always a

go down.

nice subtlety with chicken) and a wonderfully dry and crisp finish.

Ancho Relleno with Chicken Picadillo and Tomato Cream Salsa (page 31). This

Roasted Heritage Red Wattle Coppa

recipe presents a traditional interior-Mexico

with Rosemary, Garlic and Fennel (page 37).

version of chiles rellenos made using smoky

When seeking a beverage pairing for this very

dried ancho chiles instead of fresh poblanos.

flavorful Italian-style pork roast, keep in mind

For a unique pairing, try Austin’s Jester King

the proven notion that “what grows together,

Brewery’s Provenance (Lemon & Lime)

goes together.” Coppa is a traditional roast pork

2015 Saison/Farmhouse Ale. A saison is a

dish from the central region of Italy, which pro-

hearty ale that’s generally brewed in winter

duces both good white and red wines. Given the

and known for its fruity aroma, moderate tartness and hefty dose

bold flavors accompanying the roast in this recipe, a full-bodied

of spice. Because many have described Jester King’s Provenance

red would be the best choice and Montepulciano (also from the

2015 as having a taste similar to a margarita, it is appropriate to

central region) is a good one. Texas has had great luck with grow-

pair with the rellenos.

ing the varietal and producing pretty damn good wines from it. Llano Estacado Winery’s 2013 Montepulciano is a particularly

Heirloom Spigarello Greens with Pancetta, Goat Cheese,

outstanding salute to the grape. Winemaker Greg Bruni crafted a

Dried Fig and Mustard Vinaigrette (page 36). Pairing a salad

multilayered wine with dark-berry flavors nuanced with a hint of

with a beverage (other than water) can be fraught with pitfalls

tobacco and swirls of slow-roasted tomato meandering around the

because most salad dressings are acidic and punch the flavor

palate. Its grippy-but-balanced tannins allow it to endure through

right out of a wine. This vinaigrette—made with both vinegar and

the bold flavors of the dish.

mustard—is very acidic, so we want a wine that can bite back. A white wine that has moderate herbaceous or vegetal qualities

Heirloom Kieffer Pear Galette with Pecans and Farmhouse

and a bold, but refreshing, ramp of acid fits well, and Driftwood’s

Cheddar (page 39). This is a uniquely flavored dessert with a but-

Duchman Family Winery has your salad course covered. Their

tery cheddar crust and a pear filling with lemon zest, bourbon,

award-winning Vermentino is made from a grape widely planted

toasted pecans and brown sugar, so let’s try a uniquely flavored

in Sardinia, Liguria, Piedmont, Languedoc and Provence, and that

beverage alongside. The honey-based wine, called mead, is thought

is now also thriving in Texas.

to be humankind’s oldest fermented beverage, and John and Wendy Rohan of Rohan Meadery in La Grange produce excellent ver-

Heritage Hen Ballotine with Country Ham, Collard

sions of the wine in the Czech-style of John’s family heritage. Their

Greens and Pumpkin (page 37). Chardonnay is often the pairing

complex Honeymoon Mead is produced from local honey and

of choice with chicken—especially if that chicken is a savory, roast-

balanced through aging in oak barrels formerly used to age bour-

ed masterpiece. In this recipe, however, the chicken is stuffed, then

bon. The tinge of bourbon in the mead will weave nicely on the pal-

poached, then pan-seared in oil until golden, so something with a

ate with the bourbon in the gallette’s filling, and the wine is sweet

bit of tang (but still with that chardonnay-like crisp, dry finish),

enough to walk hand-in-hand with the sweetness of this dessert.

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HEIRLOOM 2016

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WHAT I EAT and why

MIMI’S KITCHEN BY M I C H A L A N N M O R R I SO N • P H OTO G RA P H Y BY J U L ES S L Ü TS KY

T

exas has a special ability to create identity and character

Mimi and I are planning a simple meal using a few undeniably

for those who call it home, and perhaps nothing is more

modest, but unquestionably Southern, recipes that were passed

central to a Texan’s worldview than our food culture. I am

down from her mother and grandmother. But if I’m looking for an

a sixth-generation Texan myself, and the recipes I’ve received

established set of directions, I’m not going to find them. In fact, I

from the women in my family are as integral to my heritage as

don’t think I’ve ever seen her pick up a measuring spoon. She relies,

any other tradition.

instead, on the memories of cooking with her family on their farm.

One woman in particular embodies my family’s love of food,

“You’ll need grease the size of a hen egg,” she says, as she

as well as the history of food in Texas—my grandmother, whom

dips a spoon into a jar of shortening and looks at me over the

we affectionately call “Mimi.” Between her unmatched personali-

top of her glasses—her hair neatly twisted and stacked atop her

ty and her decades of experience, Mimi is a legend in the kitchen.

head. “People always say, well, an egg is an egg is an egg—but of

Not only is she known for whipping up the world’s most indul-

course, it isn’t! We had guineas growing up, too, and those eggs

gent Southern food, but she makes it look like a piece of cake…or

were too small!” Then she pauses to sip the chicken broth bub-

in her kitchen, pie.

bling on the stove. “Hmm…needs more salt.”

“Oh honey, I don’t know,” she says as she takes off the silver

Born and raised in the Piney Woods of Newton, Texas, Mimi

rings that she’s worn my whole life and places them on the count-

grew up during the Great Depression. Although times were dire,

er. “I don’t follow recipes.”

she credits the food her family grew and ate for a happy upbring-

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ing, as well as for her family’s ability to thrive during one of our country’s greatest crises. “We had a farm on a city block’s worth of land,” she says, as we snap Kentucky Wonder beans and toss them into a heavy, castiron skillet to soak up a savory brine of salt pork and water. “I was so lucky to grow up in the country instead of being a city girl! We had pecan, fig, pear and apple trees for all our fruit pies, and a barn and a smokehouse for our pigs and chickens, and a syrup mill down by the Sabine River. The first cold spell of the year was hog-killing season and the whole family would get together to make sausage. It was my favorite time of year. The people living in the cities, well, food was hard to come by for them. But we had everything we needed.” Back then, chicken and dumplings was a family favorite for filling up hungry bellies, and it remains a favorite for my siblings and cousins today. As we roll out the dough for our batch, Mimi suddenly hoots with laughter. “You can’t just go out there and catch a chicken, Michal! They run away from you! Mama had a wire she called a ‘chicken hook’ that she hung up on the porch outside. She used that thing to grab a chicken around the leg and then grab it by the neck and whip it around and around until finally it would just up and die.” She whips her arm above her head with enthusiasm as she talks. “And during hog-killing time, it was the woman’s job to be in the kitchen rending the lard. Let me tell you, it was hard to be a mama.” With our beans and dumplings now simmering on the stove, we turn to a bowl of bright nectarines. In our family, dessert requires no special occasion, yet Mimi’s homemade fruit pies are incomparable. She peels four nectarines in the time it takes me to peel two, then we chop them and boil them down with a cup of sugar and butter. Mimi insists on making her own crust every time, and the extra time it takes makes all the difference. Many a time have I caught my own mom sneaking the last bit of crust from the bottom of a pie pan as a family party is winding down. I like to think about the previous generations of my family that probably did the same thing: grabbed every last crumb with relish and licked every plate clean with gratitude. The only thing that can beat a home-cooked meal is the closeness I feel to those who’ve been making and enjoying these same recipes for years and years—the most special person, to me, being my grandmother.

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Custom & From Scratch!

MIMI’S CHICKEN AND DUMPLINGS, SALT PORK GREEN BEANS

Cakes | Sculpted Designs Small Bites | Cake Bars Cupcakes | Popper Shots

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For the dumplings: 3 c. flour 2 t. salt Shortening, the size of a hen egg Black pepper, to taste Milk as needed Place the chicken into a large pot and cover with water. Add salt and pepper to taste, bring to a boil, reduce the heat to simmer and cook for about an hour. Skim anything that rises to the surface of the water. After an hour, remove the chicken from the broth and set aside to cool. Place the pot with the broth back on the stove and keep warm. When the chicken is cool enough to handle, remove the skin and discard. Pull the meat, add it back to the broth and adjust the salt and pepper. To make the dumplings, place the flour and salt in a bowl and cut in the shortening. Slowly add enough milk to the bowl so that the dough is very stiff but holds together. Roll out the dough to about 1/8inch thick on a well-floured surface (Mimi uses newspapers because she can throw them away—no mess to clean up), then cut into 2-by2-inch squares. Bring the broth to a boil, then drop squares, one at a time, into the boiling broth. (Mimi peppers each dumpling as she adds them, because who doesn’t enjoy pepper?)

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Place the salt pork into a pot with the beans. Cover with water and bring to a boil, then let simmer for one hour.

MIMI’S PERFECT PIECRUST 2 c. flour 1 t. salt 1 /³ c. shortening Ice water

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For the green beans: 1 thick slab of salt pork 1 lb. green snap beans, trimmed

Place the flour and salt in a large bowl and cut in the shortening—making sure it’s completely cut in. Slowly add ice water, a tablespoon at a time, until you have a really stiff dough (by “stiff,” Mimi means that you should be able to pick up the dough on a large spoon and it not fall off). Roll out the dough very thinly, fold it into quarters and “spank” the extra flour off. Lay it in the pie plate, unfold it and cut off the extra dough—or, to make it pretty, leave the dough a little long over the sides so that you can fold it under and pinch the top edge. (My mother always presses the tines of a fork around the edges to make a pattern.) Cover with parchment paper, then fill the crust with dried beans or pie weights and bake. (Mimi bakes the crust in a 400° oven for about 15 minutes.) For the filling, use your favorite recipe that includes whatever fruit is in season, then bake according to the instructions.


SUSTAINABLE FOOD CENTER

AN EDIBLE LEGACY BY L I Z CA R D I N A L

F

or many, heirloom seeds and heirloom plants varietals are prized possessions. These seeds were often brought via im-

migration from distant homelands, and many heirloom plants have been developed locally over generations. Both directly link a gardener to a particular cultural history and to the gardening and cooking practices of preceding generations. Gardener Adriana Prioleau is from Linares, Mexico, and remembers taking long walks with her grandfather on his farm. He taught her how to identify the native chile pequín plant that grew wild under the tall trees. She learned how to harvest and prepare the peppers, but remembers the warning from her grandfather not to touch her eyes or face because of the chile oil on her hands. “When I got to Austin, I was like, hmmmmm, where am I going to get those peppers?” she says. Then she discovered that the heirloom pepper plants are native to Texas, as well. “I got one plant and then another one, until I had a porch full of chile pequín.” In addition to growing the peppers in pots on her balcony, Prioleau plants them in her plot at Sunshine Community Gardens. And she prepares the chiles the same way she did as a child—either by making an escabeche (pickled chiles and vegetables) or using a molcajete (a type of mortar and pestle) to make a chile paste. Gardener Liem Nguyen is from Vietnam but has lived in Austin since 1984. At 84 years old, he proudly boasts that he only sees a doctor once a year for a checkup, and says he still prefers to eat the type of healthy diet he grew up on in Vietnam: soups,

Photo of chile pequín plant by Bianca Bidiuc Peterson

fish and vegetables. He has a small home garden where he grows the same heirloom vegetables and herb varietals he remembers from Vietnam. While his wife tends a rose garden, Nguyen grows Vietnamese okra, squash, bitter melon and winter melon. He donates some of his plants to the Gardens at Gus Garcia (a community garden for seniors at Gus Garcia Recreation Center), and he and his friends swap seeds and vegetable starts. He says

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he grows these heirloom varietals “first as a hobby and second for healthy food and a healthy body.” Whether the motivation to plant heirloom seeds comes from their high quality or from the cultural connections they provide, cultivating these plant varieties ensures their survival and preserves the rich agricultural biodiversity humans have developed over millennia. EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

HEIRLOOM 2016

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edible GARDEN

BY HAND BY SA RA H J. N I E LS E N

T

he term “heritage” applies to more than living things with pure-breed characteristics that stem back to the age before genetic modification and human tampering. Right along

with the resurgence of furry pigs and wonky squash comes the renaissance of historic farm implements and hand tools, too. Wheel hoes and broadforks were once common in the backyard garden and on the American farm, but as the self-sufficiency wave of backyard livestock and victory gardens waned, so did the hand tools frequently used with them. With today’s need for expedience, many might typically use a gas-powered tiller and an organic variant of Roundup. However, the growth in local, sustainable

curved tines are embedded. If you’re breaking a new bed, this might

food production has led to the proliferation of a few cleaner, yet

require hopping onto it like a step and wiggling it side to side to

familiar, alternatives. David Grau of Valley Oak Tool Company says

break open the crust of the soil. Then you lean back and bring the

there’s a growing need for new, smaller farms producing for their

twin handles downward with your hands, lifting the tines upward

local areas. “When this relocalization really takes off,” he says, “the

through the dirt and thus aerating the soil around the fork. Rocking

demand for quality non-fossil-fuel hand tools will skyrocket.”

it upright again, you remove the fork, place the tines a few inches

In my own efforts to practice sustainability through gardening,

forward of the previous point of insertion and repeat the process.

I wanted to preserve as many of the native layers and earthworm

If it sounds like a lot of work, you’re right. Breaking open hard clay

passageways in my soil as possible. I have clay soil typical of the

is difficult, but the lighter the soil, the easier it is.

Blackland Prairie, and while it’s highly fertile, it also tends to

Valley Oak Tool Company also makes a variety of other heri-

compact very easily; therefore, upsetting sensitive levels of root

tage tools, including a wheel hoe. For clearing weeds in the paths

pathways, fungal layers and other aspects of soil health wasn’t in

between the beds or mounding up dirt along onions and potatoes,

my best interest. In researching the best ways to maintain sensi-

I can’t recommend this hoe and its attachments enough. The orig-

tive soil layers, avoid compacting the soil and handle weed con-

inal wheel hoe dates back to ancient Egypt, according to Grau.

trol, I discovered the tools of yesteryear.

He took the historic, American-made model—known as a “Planet

that I loved the minute I discovered the thing in Eliott Coleman’s

Jr.”—and combined modern innovations in materials and design to come up with his version.

classic manual for gardeners, “The New Organic Grower.” Original-

The wheel hoe has two handles that meet in a “V” formation

ly known as a “grelinette,” the broadfork is shaped like a big “U”

next to a wheel. That wheel has a tool attached behind it that is

with four or five tines welded onto the end, and could be mistaken

interchangeable—it can be a 3- or 4-tined cultivating fork, a series

for an unwieldy medieval torture device. It requires a whole-body

of stirrup-shaped hoes, a tool for making furrows, a tool for mak-

approach, with the arms, core and legs all used to operate it. John-

ing hills and so on. The original, older models have issues with

ny’s Selected Seeds in Maine, purveyor of seeds and garden tools,

construction that would affect me—I’m a small woman, and the

worked with Coleman to develop and deliver broadforks, as well as

Valley Oak design allows for modifications in angle that let me

other redesigned historic tools.

use the tool more efficiently.

My broadfork—a 17-pound beast of an implement named “Big

These renditions of historic tools are such a boon to the mod-

Bertha” after the maker’s mother-in-law—was made by Gulland

ern gardener and small farmer looking for sustainable methods.

Forge Broadforks of North Carolina. The tool is comprised of two

And thanks to independent, American-made tool companies

parallel ash-wood handles (cured in a 50/50 mix of turpentine and

with a smart eye to the past, these tried-and-true heritage garden

tung oil) connected with a forged-steel fork. In function, the fork

warriors can now enjoy new life and appreciation in the capable

is heaved into the bed or row and rocked back and forth until its

hands of generations to come.

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Photo of wheel hoe by Bumbleroot Organic Farm

A broadfork, also known as a “U-bar,” is a big, impressive tool


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PICKLED GREEN TOMATOES BY KATE PAYNE • PHOTOGRAPHY BY JO ANN SANTANGELO

A

nyone who reads this column regularly already knows that I am a pickle person. I make pickle-themed kitchen gear for fellow pickle lovers and regularly teach folks across the

country the art and science behind this delicious pastime. I connect with other pickle-loving kin on Instagram (#yeahIpickledthat) and generally find pickle people to be of the best ilk. The word “pickle” is derived from the Dutch word pekel, which means brine, and represents a broad spectrum of soured vegetables, fruits and mash-ups of both. The assumed fruit when mentioning pickles—the cucumber—has been in pickling circulation for more than 4,000 years, with beginnings traced to the fruit’s native India. According to the NY Food Museum, Cleopatra at-

tributed her ace looks to a diet complete with pickled cukes. Pickles are, by definition, a fruit or vegetable in an acidic environment, which most commonly means vinegar (acetic acid) or Lactobacillus bacteria (lactic acid). The case for vinegar-pickling stands as a sure-fire way to put up a bumper crop of peppers or whatever bounty is at hand while maximizing prized refrigerator

serve fruits and vegetables and create unique flavors in cuisines

real estate. Vinegar pickles can be stored in the pantry for up to

(though it is thought that the produce was originally dropped into

a year and certainly make nachos more fun, create a mean bloody

beer and wine before it went sour, thus the two actually acidified

mary and add numerous other elements of pizzazz to dishes, de-

together—which is fermentation).

pending on the foodways traditions at hand.

Thankfully, nowadays no one needs to dig a hole in their back-

Those navigating a path toward pickle authenticity should take

yard to make pickles (phew, considering the caliche). Those con-

up fermented pickling though, because that’s what pickling was

cerned with fermentation and food safety should rest assured that

until the adoption of home canning in the early 20th century. Like

vegetable fermentation is quite possibly the safest form of food

many things that have evolved from wartime inventions turned

preservation. The lactic acid bacteria that dominate a fermented

loose on civilians post-war, food processing in the form of can-

pickle make the environment inhospitable to pathogens and dan-

ning has shifted how people experience pickles.

gerous bacteria that can survive other methods of preserving.

Fermented pickles rely on salt alone to set the stage for acidi-

Fermenting vegetables not only preserves them for a longer

fying vegetables. The vegetable’s microbial community does the

period of consumption—thus preserving the vitamins found in

rest. Salt’s long-standing role in preserving food made easy the

them (vitamin C, specifically)—but also physically changes the

prospect of preserving everything from vegetables and fruits,

original vegetable compounds. Once microbes set to their work

to grains, meat and fish, without any sort of equipment besides

of breaking down the carbohydrates in vegetables, the effects

something to dig a hole and leaves to shield the food from dirt.

are well worth the chopping effort put forth to make the pickles.

The slow process of microbes acidifying foods develops flavors

These microbes enhance vitamin and mineral content, assist our

that no vinegar pickle can rival, no matter how long it sits.

bodies with digestion and offer a probiotic punch to each meal in

Truth be told, vinegar has been around ever since humans de-

which they are served. Ideally, we should all eat a bite or two of

lightfully stumbled upon alcoholic ferments. These beer, wine

a fermented pickle with each meal to reap the proven benefits of

and cider ferments gone sour, a.k.a. vinegars, were used to pre-

lacto-fermented foods.

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Fermented pickles can be made from any vegetable that is enjoyed better whole (versus shredded or chopped as in the case of dry-salted sauerkraut and kimchi ferments). Some annual favorites of ours include the season’s arrivals of green beans, cucumbers and cornichons, carrots and even okra. Fall brings a second tomato harvest to Austin, a boon to those who can’t get June’s crop of homegrown tomatoes off their minds. Sometimes the fall crop doesn’t fully ripen, though, as temps begin to fall or other mysterious tomato-growing factors come into play. I love to reserve some of these tomatoes for a batch of fermented green tomatoes, our family’s hands-down favorite pickle. If dill doesn’t incite the same level of personal happiness and flavor fervor for you as it does for me, then try other combina-

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Yields 1 quart 2 c. filtered spring water 1½ T. fine sea salt 4 garlic cloves 2 t. dill seed 4 black peppercorns ½ t. cayenne powder or 1 dried hot pepper, slit lengthwise 12 oz. firm, green (unripe) tomatoes Combine the water and salt in a measuring cup or pitcher. Stir gently until dissolved. Smash the garlic cloves to remove the skin and drop whole into a wide-mouth glass jar along with the other spices. Cut a thin sliver of the blossom end (opposite the stem end) off the tomatoes and quarter or halve depending on the size of the tomatoes and the desired size of pickles. Pack the tomatoes into the jar so they fit snugly. Pour the salt brine over the tomatoes to cover them completely, but leaving at least an inch of room from the top of the jar. Use glass pickling weights or place a clean, 8-ounce jelly jar inside the rim of the pickle jar to keep the tomatoes down in the brine. (The jelly jar may displace some of the brine when first situated, which is fine as long as the tomatoes are still covered.) Place the pickling jar in a shallow casserole dish or on a plate to catch any brine that may bubble out of the top. Cover the top of the jar with a towel or piece of muslin and a rubber band, but make sure the jelly jar rig is not pulled down by the towel and that the towel is not resting in the brine, wicking it away from the tomatoes. The pickle jar will become cloudy as the microbes do their job, and a dish soap-like foam will form around the base of the jelly jar on top of the brine. Carefully skim off this foam to prevent mold from having a surface area to grow. Begin tasting pickles after they have uniformly darkened from their original vibrant color. Allow to ferment out of direct sunlight for up to 12 to 14 days in the coolest place in the house where a garlic dill aroma will be welcome. They are ready whenever they taste good, which can be as early as 5 or 6 days into the process. If they are too salty initially, allow them to continue to ferment. It is never unsafe at any point to taste the pickles, and the longer they ferment, the more sour they become. When the pickles have fermented to your liking, cap the jar loosely and place it in the refrigerator to halt the fermentation process. The pickles will keep there for a year or more.

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THE DIRECTORY ARTISANAL FOODS

BAKERIES

Antonelli’s Cheese Shop

Blue Note Bakery

We love cut-to-order artisanal cheese and all that goes with it. Order a picnic platter, take a class or host a private guided event. Free tastings daily. 512-531-9610 4220 Duval St. antonellischeese.com

Delysia Chocolatier Handcrafted in Austin. Our products are handmade using fine quality, sustainable chocolate and only the freshest ingredients. 512-413-4701 2000 Windy Terrace, Suite 2C delysia.com

Blue Note Bakery is Austin’s premier custom cake shop, meticulously creating one-of-a-kind desserts for your special occasions. 512-797-7367 4201 S. Congress Ave., Ste. 101 bluenotebakery.com

BEVERAGES Becker Vineyards Winery, vineyards, and tasting room with wines for tasting and for sale. Lavender fields, lavender products and annual Lavender Fest. 830-644-2681 464 Becker Farms Rd., Stonewall beckervineyards.com

Lick Honest Ice Creams Artisan ice creams celebrating the finest ingredients Texas has to offer! Handmade in small batches in our Austin kitchen. Natural, local and seasonal. 512-363-5622 1100 S. Lamar Blvd., Ste. 35 512-609-8029 6555 Burnet Rd. ilikelick.com

Lone Star Meats Delivering high-quality products chefs desire with a meticulous eye on consistency. 512-646-6220 1403 E. 6th St. lonestarmeats.com

Pasta & Co. Austin’s only fresh pasta manufacturer serving the greater Austin area’s retail and wholesale pasta needs since 1983. 512-453-0633 3502 Kerbey Lane austinpasta.com

Sweet Ritual Artisanal microcreamery featuring 17 flavors of alternative ice cream - made with cashew, almond and coconut bases. Gluten-free options. Dairy and egg free. 512-666-8346 4500 Duval St. sweetritual.com

Wholy Bagel Wholy Bagel prepares scratch-made New York style bagels daily. 512-899-0200 4404 W. William Cannon Dr. wholybagelatx.com

Bending Branch Winery Bending Branch Winery is a premier Hill Country winery with award-winning wines, including our signature Texas Tannat. Visit us Thurs-Sun. 830-995-2948 142 Lindner Branch Trl., Comfort 830-995-3394 704 High St., Comfort bendingbranchwinery.com

Bloody Revolution From Bloody Revolution Gourmet Mixes in Austin, TX comes a nothing-else-needed Bloody Mary Mix that’s as great for cocktails as it is for cooking. Start a REVOLUTION! bloodyrevolution.com

Cibolo Creek Brewing Co. A place to kick back and meet your neighbors in a family friendly atmosphere, while enjoying house brewed beer and eating fresh pub food. 254-979-1988 488 S. Main St., Boerne cibolocreekbrewing.com

Greater Goods Coffee We have two passions. Roasting some of Austin’s best coffee and giving back to our local community. Join us at our roastery in Dripping Springs or at a retailer near you. 512-858-2680 160 McGregor Ln., Dripping Springs greatergoodscoffee.com

Lost Draw Cellars Lost Draw Cellars produces stellar Texas wines from our vineyards in the Texas High Plains, sourcing grapes for some of the best wineries in the state. 830-992-3251 113 E. Park St., Fredericksburg lostdrawcellars.com

Paula’s Texas Spirits

Twisted X Brewing

Paula’s Texas Orange Liqueur & Paula’s Texas Lemon Liqueur—all natural and handmade in Austin since 2006. Available throughout Texas. paulastexasspirits.com

Craft brewery nestled at the foot of the Hill Country. Our tap room is open weekly with 13 locally brewed beers on tap, it’s a great place for a party or to simply enjoy a pint. 512-829-5323 23455 W. RR 150, Dripping Springs texmexbeer.com

Spec’s Wine Spirits and Finer Foods Family-owned since 1962, Spec’s offers expert service and Texas’ largest selection of wines, spirits and beers along with gourmet foods and more! 512-366-8260 4970 W. US Hwy. 290 512-342-6893 10515 N. MoPac Hwy. 512-280-7400 9900 S. I-35 512-263-9981 13015 Shops Pkwy., Bee Cave 512-366-8300 5775 Airport Blvd. specsonline.com

Texas Coffee Traders East Austin’s artisinal coffee roaster and one-stop shop offering a wide selection of certified organic and fair trade options for wholesale and retail. 512-476-2279 1400 E. 4th St. texascoffeetraders.com

Texas Hills Vineyard Winemaking, wine sales, tasting room, patio for picnics, gifts, award-winning wines, fun-loving staff and a beautiful place to visit. 830-868-2321 878 RR 2766, Johnson City texashillsvineyard.com

Texas Keeper Ciders Small-batch cider made in south Austin from 100% apples. Available in stores, bars, and restaurants throughout Austin, Houston, and DFW areas. 512-910-3409 12521 Twin Creeks Rd. texaskeeper.com

Tito’s Handmade Vodka Tito’s Handmade Vodka is handcrafted from 100% corn and distilled six times by Tito Beveridge in Austin, TX at America’s original microdistillery. Gluten-free! 512-389-9011 titosvodka.com

BOOKSELLERS BookPeople Texas’ leading independent bookstore since 1970. Located in the heart of downtown, BookPeople has been voted best bookstore in Austin for over 15 years! 512-472-5050 603 N. Lamar Blvd. bookpeople.com

University of Texas Press Our mission is to advance and disseminate knowledge through the publication of books and journals and through electronic media. 800-252-3206 utexaspress.com

CATERING AND MEAL DELIVERY Pink Avocado A custom catering company specializing in tailored menus, incredible food, and surprisingly good professional service. 512-656-4348 401 Sabine St., Ste. B pinkavocadocatering.com

Spoon & Co. Catering It’s our business to delight you with the details, memorable events with mindfully chosen, prepared and presented food and a caring crew! 512-912-6784 spoonandco.com

EDUCATION The Natural Epicurean At The Natural Epicurean, we train professional chefs, health coaches, and consumers in plant-based health-supportive culinary techniques. 512-476-2276 1700 S. Lamar Blvd. naturalepicurean.com

Twin Liquors Family owned and Authentically Austin™ since 1937, Twin Liquors helps customers match wine and spirits to every occasion. 75 Central Texas locations. 1-855-350-TWIN (8946) 512-451-7400 1000 E. 41st St. #810 512-402-0060 3525 Market St., Bee Cave 512-872-4220 210 University Blvd, Ste. 120, Round Rock twinliquors.com

EVENTS Whim Hospitality The Whim Hospitality family of services includes catering, event and tent rentals and florals. Separately, or as a package of services, we help make your next event memorable. 512-858-9446 2001 W. Hwy. 290, Ste. 107, Dripping Springs whimhospitality.com

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FARMERS MARKETS Sustainable Food Center

SFC cultivates a healthy community by strengthening the local food system and improving access to nutritious, affordable food. 512-236-0074 400 W. Guadalupe St. 3200 Jones Rd., Sunset Valley 4600 Lamar Blvd. 2921 E. 17 St., Bldg C (Office) sustainablefoodcenter.org

Texas Farmers’ Market

Cedar Park (Saturdays, 9 am-1 pm, Lakeline Mall) and Mueller Farmers Markets (Sundays, 10 am-2 pm, the historic Mueller Hangar). Open year round, rain or shine. 512-363-5700 11200 Lakeline Mall Dr., Cedar Park 4550 Mueller Blvd. texasfarmersmarket.org

FARMS Burg’s Corner Fredericksburg peches. Local fruit and vegetable stand. Peach ice cream. Peach cider. Over 100 Texas gourmet jarred products. Sweet snacks and gifts. 830-644-2604 15194 E. US Hwy 290, Stonewall burgscorner.com

Capra Premium Dorper Lamb

Locally raised, All Natural, Premium Dorper Lamb. 325-648-2418 1110 E. Front St., Goldthwaite caprafoods.com

Windy Hill Foods

Sustainable Texas meats. Boer goat meat, grassfed, grass-finished lamb and beef, pasture raised organic fed chicken and eggs. Pork, quail, veggies and more! 254-979-1988 122 N. Plant Ave., Boerne 300 Ranch Rd. 573, Comanche windyhilltx.com

FINANCIAL Capital Farm Credit

Capital Farm Credit is your financial lending partner, providing loans for recreational land, home loans and small and large acreage tracts. 512-892-4425 5900 Southwest Pkwy., Ste. 501 512-715-9239 301 W. Polk St., Burnet 979-968-5750 456 N. Jefferson St., La Grange 512-398-3524 1418 S. Colorado St., Lockhart 830-626-6886 426 S. Seguin Ave., New Braunfels capitalfarmcredit.com

GROCERS Royal Blue Grocery Downtown Austin’s neighborhood grocer—with dairy, prepared foods, beer and wine, Royal Blue has it all, in a convenient and compact format. Catering too! 512-499-3993; 247 W. 3rd St. 512-476-5700; 360 Nueces St. 512-469-5888; 609 Congress Ave. 512-386-1617; 301 Brazos St., Ste. 110 512-480-0061; 51 Rainey St. royalbluegrocery.com

Whole Foods Market Selling the highest quality natural and organic products. 512-542-2200 525 N. Lamar Blvd. 512-345-5003 9607 Research Blvd. 512-206-2730 12601 Hill Country Blvd., Bee Cave 512-358-2460 4301 W. William Cannon wholefoodsmarket.com

HEALTH AND BEAUTY DITI Imaging DITI Imaging is South Texas’ leading thermography provider with over 10 years experience providing a pain-free, radiation-free means of breast screening. 210-705-1232; 866-409-2506 Austin, Wimberley, Boerne, Kerrville and New Braunfels ditiimaging.com

Peoples Rx Pharmacy and Deli Since 1980, Austin’s favorite pharmacy keeps locals healthy through Rx compounding, supplements and prescriptions, holistic practitioners and natural foods. 512-459-9090; 4018 N. Lamar Blvd. 512-444-8866; 3801 S. Lamar Blvd. 512-327-8877; 4201 Westbank Dr. 512-219-9499; 13860 Hwy 183 N. peoplesrx.com

Wiseman Family Practice Wiseman Family Practice is an integrative medical practice in Austin, Tx that focuses on health education and natural approaches to wellness. 512-345-8970 2500 S. Lakeline Blvd. Ste. 100, Cedar Park 300 Medical Arts St. 3801 S. Lamar Blvd. wisemanfamilypractice.com

Copenhagen Imports

LODGING AND TOURISM

Contemporary furniture and accessories for home and office. 512-451-1233 2236 W. Braker Ln. copenhagenliving.com

Fredericksburg Conference and Visitors Bureau

Der Küchen Laden Retail gourmet kitchen shop, featuring cookware, cutlery, bakeware, small electrics, textiles and kitchen gadgets. 830-997-4937 258 E. Main St., Fredericksburg littlechef.com

The Herb Bar Best place to cure what ails you and a healing resource center since 1986. Our Optimal Health Advisers are highly trained, knowledgeable and compassionate. 512-444-6251; 200 W. Mary St. theherbbar.com

Italian Cowboy Food & Provisions Ciao! Italian Cowboy is a kitchen boutique, specialty food store, and purveyor of small batch baked goods. Visit our biscotti bar for delicious treats and confections. 512-988-2006 928½ Main Street, Bastrop italiancowboyfoods.com

Kettle & Brine Kettle & Brine is a curated kitchen and home provisions store, specializing in high-end, heirloom quality goods, that inspire people to cook and eat together more. 512-375-4239 908-C W. 12th St. kettleandbrine.com

LANDSCAPE AND GARDENING Barton Springs Nursery Locally grown Texas native plants. Organic pest management. Environmentally friendly soil amendments. Beautiful gifts. 512-328-6655; 3601 Bee Cave Rd. bartonspringsnursery.net

It’s About Thyme Garden Center Top quality culinary herbs for chefs, and native plants for gardeners. A nursery with expert staff and pocket-friendly prices. Free lectures most Sundays. 512-280-1192 11726 Manchaca Rd. itsaboutthyme.com

HOUSEWARES AND GIFTS

Natural Gardener

Callahan’s General Store

We are a garden center and teaching facility dedicated to promoting organic time-tested gardening practices. 512-288-6113 8648 Old Bee Caves Rd. naturalgardeneraustin.com

Austin’s real general store…hardware to western wear, from feed to seed! 512-385-3452 501 S. Hwy. 183 callahansgeneralstore.com

Visit Fredericksburg, a small gem nestled in the Texas Hill Country. Enjoy eclectic shops, diverse lodging, amazing restaurants and Texas wines. 866-997-3600 visitfredericksburgtx.com

Onion Creek Kitchens at Juniper Hills Farm Cooking classes, beautiful dining room venue for private events, hill country cabin rental. 830-833-0910 5818 RR 165, Dripping Springs juniperhillsfarm.com

PHOTOGRAPHY AND ART Blanton Museum of Art The Blanton Museum of Art, one of the foremost university art museums in the country, offers all visitors engaging experiences that connect art and ideas. 512-471-7324 200 E. Martin Luther King Jr. Blvd. blantonmuseum.org

PROFESSIONAL SERVICES Austin Label Company Custom labels up to 10 x 20 on paper, foil, synthetics, multiple adhesives, embossing, hot foil and UV coatings. Proud members of Go Texan, FTA and TWGGA. 512-302-0204 1610 Dungan Ln. austinlabel.com

Culinary Agents Online networking site for the restaurant and culinary industry. 917-686-1279 27 E. 28th St., New York culinaryagents.com

REAL ESTATE Audrey Row - Keller Williams Realtor assisting residential selling or buying clients in the Austin/Dripping Springs and surrounding areas. Land and Residential market. 512-789-1633 1801 S. Mopac, Suite 100 austinanddrippinghomes.com

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communities publications Get to know the farmers in the Finger Lakes, the artisans of Michiana, the vintners in Vancouver and more as we serve up the best local food stories from the fields and kitchens of Edible Communities. edible BLUE RIDGE

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Number 25 Winter 2015

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Celebrating the Abundance of Local Foods, Season by Season

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Farmers’ Markets, Food and WWI I on Cape Cod � Off-Shore Lobstering � Pawpaws � Cultivating Crustaceans

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Barbara Van Dyke

Cannon + Belle

Salt Traders Coastal Cooking

Kuper Sotheby’s International Realty RealtorHelping buyers and sellers move to the next chapter of their lives. 512-431-2552 4301 Westbank Dr. B-100 barbaravandyke.kuperrealty.com

Cannon + Belle is a dynamic, multi-station open kitchen restaurant featuring a delicious Texas-fresh menu plus specialty tap wine and cocktail program. 512-482-8000 500 E. 4th St, cannonandbelle.com

Seafood-centric restaurant from the team behind Jack Allen’s Kitchen. Sustainably sourced, community driven. 2850 N Interstate Hwy 35 Round Rock salttraderscc.com

Century 21 Paradise Properties

Thai Fresh

Beach living is closer than you think! Paradise Properties can help you discover your perfect piece of paradise. 530-751-6797 judcaborealestate.com

East Side Pies

Green Mango Real Estate

Hut’s Hamburgers

Boutique firm specializing in Central Austin since 1987, especially the 78704 where we have sold more homes than any other single realtor. 512-923-6648 905 Avondale Rd. greenmangorealestate.com

Headwaters Headwaters is a new community located in Dripping Springs celebrating natural beauty, stewardship and outdoor living. It’s ranch life, re-imagined. 2401 E. US Hwy. 290 Dripping Springs liveheadwaters.com

The Marye Company Full service real estate firm in Austin, Texas. Where you live is a lifestyle. Let us help you define yours. 512-444-7171 5608 Parkcrest, Suite 300 themaryecompany.com

RESTAURANTS Austin Beer Garden Brewing Co. Locally-sourced lunch and dinner. Craft brewery, live music, good people, dog friendly, creative community. #beermakesitbetter #ouratx 512-298-2242 1305 W. Oltorf St. theabgb.com

Barlata Tapas Bar Located in the heart of South Lamar. Barlata offers a variety of tapas, paellas, regional Spanish wines and cavas. Come and enjoy a bit of Spain with us. 512-473-2211 1500 S. Lamar Blvd., Ste. 150 barlataaustin.com

Bistro Vonish Elevated vegan cuisine, showcasing the freshest flavors of Central Texas. 203-982-7762 facebook.com/bistrovonish

512-524-0933; 1401B Rosewood Ave. 512-454-7437; 5312 G Airport Blvd. 512-467-8900; 1809-1 W. Anderson Ln. eastsidepies.com

An Austin tradition since 1939 featuring grassfed Longhorn beef and bison burgers. 512-472-0693 807 W. 6th St. hutsfrankandangies.com

Jobell Cafe & Bistro We offer a carefully selected and prepared take on French bistro fare with wonderful wines all served amidst the intimacy and charm of Texas Hill Country. 512-847-5700 16920 RR 12, Wimberley jobellcafe.com

Kerbey Lane Cafe Kerbey Lane Cafe is a local Austin haunt serving up tasty, healthy food (mostly) 24/7. Stop by any of our 6 locations for a delicious stack of pancakes! 512-451-1436 kerbeylanecafe.com

Thai Fresh offers authentic Thai food, cooking classes, coffee bar, gluten free bakery. We source locally grown and raised ingredients. 512-494-6436 909 W. Mary St. thaifreshaustin.com

The Turtle Restaurant Your destination for food prepared from locally available, seasonal ingredients. 325-646-8200 514 Center Ave. Brownwood theturtlerestaurant.com

Buffalo Exchange New & Recycled Fashion. Buy, sell, trade designer wear, basics, vintage, and one-of-a-kind items. You can recieve cash or trade for clothing on the spot! 512-480-9922 2904 Guadalupe St. buffaloexchange.com

Make It Sweet At Make It Sweet, you can find tools, supplies and ingredients to make cakes, cookies and candies and learn fun, new techniques in the classes offered. 512-371-3401 9070 Research Blvd. makeitsweet.com

Vinaigrette A farm-to-table restaurant serving entrée salads and botany-inspired drinks/cocktails. Patio dining and parking available. Open daily for lunch and dinner. 512-852-8791 2201 College Ave. 505-820-9205 709 Don Cubero Alley, Santa Fey, NM 505-842-5507 1828 Central Ave. SW, Albuquerque, NM vinaigretteonline.com

VOX Table

Serving the Texas Hill Country fresh and seasonal favorites using local ingredients. 512-847-7327 111 River Rd., Wimberley leaningpear.com

New-American restaurant serving chef-crafted small plates that highlight farm-to-table ingredients and a lively craft cocktail bar. The perfect restaurant to wine and dine Austin-Style. 512-375-4869 1100 S. Lamar Blvd., Ste. 2140 voxtableaustin.com

Lenoir

Whip In

Lenoir is an intimate, family-run restaurant offering a weekly, local prix-fixe menu, great wine and friendly service. 512-215-9778 1807 S. 1st St. lenoirrestaurant.com

Beer & wine bars with restaurant. Gujarati (Indian) style food. Huge selection of beer & wine retail. Fill growlers with 72 draft beers. 512-442-5337 1950 S. I-35 whipin.com

The Leaning Pear Café & Eatery

SPECIALTY MARKETS

Salt & Time Butcher Shop and Salumeria

Wink Restaurant & Wine Bar

A full service Butcher Shop and restaurant. 100% locally sourced meat and oroduce, house made deli meats, charcuterie, and salumi. 512-524-1383 1912 E. 7th St. saltandtime.com

The daily menu is based on local artisans. Wink happily embraces omnivores, vegetarians, vegans, pescetarians and special dietary issues. 512-482-8868 1014 N. Lamar Blvd. winkrestaurant.com EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM HEIRLOOM 2016 EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM HEIRLOOM 2016

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ART DE TERROIR Sponsored by the Trail of Lights Foundation

NIGHT LIGHTS the Trail of Lights 3rd Annual Preview Party Friday, December 9, from 6 to 10 p.m. This uniquely Austin event features performances by Shinyribs and The Greyhounds, tastings from some of Austin’s best restaurants, a classic car show and an eclectic Maker’s Market, curated by Edible Austin. Don’t miss this special opportunity to support the Trail of Lights Foundation, a nonprofit dedicated to producing the Trail of Lights community celebration, and find locally made Austin holiday presents!

Edible Austin Maker’s Market features: austiNuts nut packs, yogurt pretzels and snacks

Slow North all natural soy candles

Batch customized gift baskets of local goods

Burg’s Corner Texas Hill Country treats

Delysia Chocolatier handmade chocolate truffles

Gracious Garlands holiday wreaths,

Greater Goods Coffee Roasters coffee beans

garlands and more!

Thirds handcrafted home goods Complimentary beer, wine and holiday cocktails • Tickets on sale November 9 • austintrailoflights.org


We Cook. You Bring Home the Best.

RESERVE ONLINE • PICK UP IN STORE

SHOP.WFM.COM Holiday Meals • Entrées • Appetizers • Sides • Desserts DOMAIN: Just off Mopac, North of Braker | NORTH: Highway 183 & 360 | DOWNTOWN: 6th & Lamar SOUTH: William Cannon & Mopac | WEST: Hill Country Galleria

Edible Austin Heirloom 2016  

Our Heirloom issue celebrates tradition and authenticity, family memories and gatherings with friends over food. We hope you enjoy the stori...

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