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No. 31 Heirloom 2013


Celebrating Central Texas food culture, season by season



Member of Ed ib le Commu n ities



JANUARY 25 & 26, 2014

SEASONAL SATURDAY DINNER & SUNDAY BRUNCH prepared by Executive Chef Benjamin Baker



for event info visit


People are talking .




12346 E US Hwy 290, Fredericksburg, TX 78624 . 830-644-2482 .




CONTents heirloom issue 6

Publisher’s Note


Notable Mentions


Notable Edibles

 Cooking Up Spanish, Legislative Update, Olive Oil Re-Examined, Fresh Chefs Society.



The Floreses of Mom and Pops.


Edible Brewing

Real Ale Brewing Company.


Edible Marketplace

Rosewood Community Market.


Farmers Diary

Milagro Farm.


Seasonal Muse

Dirt farming.


Edible Endeavors

Ming's Thing.


Social Cooking

Supper Clubs.


Cooks at Home

Suzanna Choffel.


Hip Girl’s Guide To Homemaking

The shrub.


La Casita de Buen Sabor

Grandma's piccalilli.


The Directory

Cover: T  amales from the Galindo family (page 54).

edible PAST TIMES 24 Cultural Fold: The Austin Breakfast Taco The history of breakfast tacos in Austin.

32 Table of Plenty Wild foods on the Central Texas settlers‘ table.


Good Fortune Foods Food superstitions to follow for good luck.


The Kindest Cut Sharing the love of the kitchen.


The Galindo Family Heirloom recipes from four generations of chefs.


Heritage Grains Delve into the rich history of these seeds.

Find a full listing of our contributors at

Photography by Kate LeSueur. EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM



Publisher’s Note


Publisher Marla Camp

“Eating is an agricultural act.” —Wendell Berry, The Pleasures of Eating


Associate PUBLISHER Jenna Noel

very time we lift our fork we are supporting a farm somewhere. Increasingly, thanks to urban farms, we are supporting neighborhood farms in our own community. These


farms grow healthy food, create jobs, serve as community hubs and

Advertising Director

give us the opportunity to experience the inherent value of the

Dawn Jordan

land. Protecting our urban farms is key to creating a positive economic environment in Austin. Earlier this year, the City began a process to update the Code Ordinance for our

Production Assistant Whitney Arostegui

urban farms. The process was conducted over eight months of well-publicized and

Marketing Assistant

documented city-wide public hearings and input-gathering. As with any thought-

Shannon Kintner

ful and well-considered process, it brought multiple stakeholders to the table and compromises were made by all parties to accommodate multi-faceted concerns of both farmers and neighborhood groups. Benefits to the community. The Urban Farm Code Ordinance is a city-wide ordinance benefitting all residents throughout Austin. Here are a few of these: • Long-term, stable neighbors. Long-term land stewardship is essential for sustainably growing vegetables and small livestock. Austin’s urban farmers need years to build soil fertility, provide healthy pasture and invest in infrastructure. Because no farmer can survive on sales of the fruits of their labors alone, urban farms also bring vibrant and meaningful events to life such as farm dinners, can-

Copy Editor Christine Whalen

Editorial Assistants Melinda Barsales, Claire Cella, Dena Garcia, Marie Franki Hanan, Michelle Moore, Lauren Walz

Advertising Sales Curah Beard, Laurie Cochran, Michael Muela, Lis Riley

ning and cooking classes and weddings to provide additional revenue to support

Distribution Manager

the farm. This, in turn, allows them to give back to the community with farm

Greg Rose

tours providing educational outreach for schools and charity fundraisers. • Support for the local economy. Urban farms hire locally and every dollar spent on a local farm stays in the community, as opposed to the 4-cents on the dollar when you buy your food from a big box store. As Austinites influence local

Advisory Group Terry Thompson-Anderson, Paula Angerstein, Dorsey Barger, Jim Hightower, Toni Tipton-Martin, Mary Sanger, Suzanne Santos, Carol Ann Sayle

restaurants to source more locally and sustainably grown food, this also drives money to our vibrant local—and nationally recognized—food scene. • Access to healthy food for all. Small urban farms throughout the city can't solve all of our food access problems, but they can help. A new “market garden” code designation provides an easier entry for producers of diverse backgrounds and an additional source of income and food for families; non-code recommendations support farm stands that have the capacity to accept nutrition assistance benefits such as SNAP and WIC and point the city towards programs to help get land in the hands of more diverse producers. The payoff. Supporting our urban farms by passing the update to the urban farm code will provide the residents of Austin access to fresh, healthful food and local jobs while cultivating good neighbors with a strong sense of place and interest in preserving not just the land but our neighborhoods. Help us celebrate Austin's urban farms during our 2013 Eat Drink Local Week, December 7–14, by taking our Local Food Challenge: Join us in cooking meals throughout the week with all local ingredients or dining at restaurants featured in our new mapped guide to farm-to-table restaurants. And we’ll see you at the farmers markets and special events throughout the week!

CONTACT US Edible Austin 1415 Newning Avenue, Austin, TX 78704 512-441-3971 Edible Austin is published bimonthly by Edible Austin L.L.C. All rights reserved. Subscription rate is $35 annually. No part of this publication may be used without written permission of the publisher. ©2013. Every effort is made to avoid errors, misspellings and omissions. If, however, an error comes to your attention, please accept our sincere apologies and notify us.

Start planning your week at December 7–14

Benefitting Urban Roots & Sustainable Food Center An Evening with Will Allen Dec. 8 | 7:30 PM STATESIDE AT THE PARAMOUNT Join us at Stateside at the Paramount for an unforgettable evening featuring Will Allen, the founder and CEO of Growing Power Inc., a farm and community food center in Milwaukee. Will is widely considered the leading authority in the expanding field of urban agriculture and promotes the belief that all people, regardless of their economic circumstances, should have access to fresh, safe, affordable and nutritious foods at all times. A panel discussion will follow the talk with Don Shaffer, Dr. Michael Webber, Erin Flynn, and panel moderator, Evan Smith. And after the show you may meet area farmers and shop at Edible Austin’s Farmers Market in the Theatre’s lobby. Proceeds from this event will support the historic Paramount Theatre, Sustainable Food Center and Urban Roots.

Edible Austin VIP Reception Edible Austin will present a VIP reception before the show from 6–7 pm, where you can meet Will Allen and the panelists while enjoying locally sourced, seasonal tastings from Austin’s chefs, along with local wines and spirits and live music by Austin’s Bluegrass Outfit.

For tickets, visit or call 512-474-1221. Presented by Paramount Theatre and the Cynthia and George Mitchell Foundation in partnership with Edible Austin and The Texas Tribune.

Get your tickets now! Bread & Circus Supper Club presents: Winter Harvest Dinner Party Dec. 10 PALM DOOR A family-style dinner celebrating all of the local and seasonal ingredients that Central Texas has to offer.

FREE Advanced Screening: Farm-City, State Dec. 12 BLANTON MUSEUM OF ART An independent film asking, ‘What if an entire city could feed itself?’ Farm-City, State is a documentary about Austin’s progress within the nation’s popular local food movement. Talk-back with Producer David Barrow and special guests will follow the film. Please RSVP to attend.

For tickets and more information visit Sponsors:

notable Mentions


CALLING ALL CHICKENS—FUNKY CHICKEN COOP TOUR 2014 Applications to host a coop for the 2014 Funky Chicken Coop Tour (FCCT) are now available! The deadline to apply to be a NORTH: 13435 N Hwy 183, Ste 306 (512) 249-9672 SOUTH: 3005 S Lamar Blvd., Ste B106 (512) 326-2746

Coop Tour Host is January 25. FCCT, founded in 2009, is an annual self-guided tour held each spring in Austin by the nonUse code EDIBLE10TVL13 at checkout 10% OFF A CLASS

profit Urban Poultry Association of Texas, Inc. The tour aims to encourage city residents to raise chickens at home by demonstrating the many ways chicken (and other poultry) housing can be incorporated in an urban residence without violating city ordinances or creating a nuisance. Each year, the FCCT strives to showcase a diverse array of coops displaying a variety of construction designs and materials, from recycled to customdesigned coops. Resident birds run the gamut from production hens to exotic chickens and roosters. Many tour hosts also demonstrate how to integrate chickens and their manure into household gardening and composting, resulting in inexpensive, healthy and sustainable food, even in relatively small spaces. As part of its commitment to local food and community, FCCT will donate a portion of its 2014 proceeds after expenses to New Farm Institute, a nonprofit organization with a mission to educate, assist and inspire citizens and a new generation of


11190 Circle Dr., Ste. 350 512-350-2271

sustainable farmers, with a focus on the urban fringe. The 2014 tour date is Saturday, April 19. Find more information about the tour, application forms and sponsorship information, as well as a plethora of resources for chicken keeping at

also found at:

Whole Foods Market Peoples Rx and more!

retail . wholesale . special events

LUMINATIONS AT THE WILDFLOWER CENTER Enjoy the natural beauty of the Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center, brought to life at night with thousands of luminarias and twinkle lights, on Saturday and Sunday, December

eat well.

14 and 15, from 6 p.m. to 9 p.m. The event features musical acts from local performers and area schools on both evenings, plus

11th & lamar

hot chocolate and other food and drinks for


trees in the McDermott Learning Center for

sale. Stroll through the decorated Christmas a bit of holiday cheer, or visit the Gift Store for book signings by local authors and illustrators. Kids are invited to meet Frosty the Snowman and make crafts in the Visitors Gallery. Admission is free 8



with a donation of two canned goods for the Capital Area Food Bank. Visit for more information.

Photography by Jenna Noel


FOURTH ANNUAL TAMALES! FESTIVAL AT PEARL The fourth annual Tamales! festival, an all-day celebration of family, food and fun, returns to Pearl on Saturday, December 7 from noon to 6 p.m. Guests are invited to explore a Mexican-style streetscape full of the sounds,

Gift Baskets & Gift Sets

Make the perfect stress-free gifts this holiday season Call (512) 637-9545 or stop by the shop to order yours today!

sights and tastes of the holiday season, along with a full range of tamale styles, from traditional San Antonio classics to South American to sweet, vegetarian and more. Visit for

3663 Bee Cave Rd. Austin, TX 78746 •

more information.

Luminations at the Wildflower Center Saturday & Sunday December 14 & 15


6 to 9 p.m. Free admission with donation to the Capital Area Food Bank

Save the date for a tour taking you through four of East Austin’s urban farms, plus a cornucopia of local food and drink brought to you by local chefs, brewers, wineries and distillers, on Sunday, April 13. Visit for details and updates.

4801 La Crosse Avenue • 512.232.0100


Jam & Jive with Edible Austin At Travaasa Celebrate the Winter season with a weekend of learning and fun at Jam & Jive, presented by Edible Austin at Travaasa Austin, January 25 and 26. Learn how to preserve the winter harvest bounty with workshops on canning and food preservation by EA columnist and Hip Girl’s Guide to Homemaking author Kate Payne, enjoy a seasonal dinner prepared by Travaasa Executive Chef Benjamin Baker, then dance the night away with live music from the 1920s

make it a GREEN CHRISTMAS Deck the halls with natural and local live

and professional dance les-

Christmas trees and poinsettias from one

sons. Experience a total

of our 7 locations across Central Texas.

getaway with overnight accommodations at Travaasa

Get a discount off your next purchase

then join us for a jammin’

by entering the code GREENCHRISTMAS at

Sunday Brunch and tours

of the Travaasa farm. Visit /jamandjive for event details and ticket information. Proceeds from this event will benefit the Sustainable Food Center. EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM



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notable EDIBLES Eat Your Words


earning a new language can seem like an insurmountable challenge, but the team at Cooking Up English shows that pairing

new vocabulary with food can make it easier to digest. This local nonprofit has been teaching nonnative speakers English through cooking classes since 2010, and launched a new series in May,


1500 South Lamar |

Cooking Up Spanish, for people who want to learn Spanish while also mastering the cuisines of Spain, Mexico and Latin America. “Learning a new language is about more than memorizing words,” says board president Casey Smith. “You learn so much history and the values of a community through food. It helps people connect the culture with the language.” Cooking Up Spanish offers five different themed series, each five weeks in length. Students learn common Spanish phrases and terms while making traditional dishes like homemade tortillas, chilaquiles, pan dulce and tapas. Six volunteers excited to share their language and food with non-Spanish speakers teach the classes, with the help of three guest instructors who are former Cooking Up English students. Each series costs $175, and 40 percent of the fee underwrites the tuition of Cooking Up English classes, which are priced on a sliding scale based on income.

m a de

The popularity of the Spanish series has sparked develop-

Home for the holidays

ment of more foreign-language classes with help from former students. “The last week of the English classes, we ask students to provide a recipe from their home country,” says Smith. “With students representing over 15 countries and 11 languages, we realized we could create classes for more than Spanish.” Cooking Up English will continue its Spanish series in 2014, and also launch French, Russian and Arabic classes. In addition,


(actually, every day!)

honest ice creams

they’re actively working on a curriculum for a Mandarin class, which will round out a full program offering of the six official languages of the United Nations—one delicious word at a time. —Kristi Willis

2032 South Lamar Boulevard Austin, Texas

Photography of assistant class instructors Julian and Nancy Rojas by Pauline Forgeard

Find out more at











2013 Legislative Updates


Craft-distillery bills, which took effect Sept. 1, 2013 S.B. 828: Sets up a distiller’s agent permit, which authorizes an

ocally grown and artisanal foods and beverages were front

agent to act on behalf of distillers to conduct samplings at retail

and center on the minds of state legislators during the 83rd

stores and to take orders from wholesale distributors.

legislative session. Not only did a number of bills get passed that will provide greater freedoms and support for local farmers and food producers, but the state’s craft brewers and distillers also got an economic boost from several bills of their own. Achievements at a glance:

Craft-beer bills, which took effect June 14, 2013 Senate Bill (S.B.) 515: For the first time, brewpubs can now sell their products off-site thanks to this bill, whereas previously, their products could only be consumed on premises. It also raises their manufacturing limit from 5,000 to 10,000 barrels a year, and allows them to sell their products to wholesale distributors for resale. In addition, up to 1,000 barrels of that limit can now

S.B. 642: Allows distillers to sell their product in bulk to food producers who manufacture their foods using spirits as an ingredient. S.B. 652: Allows distillers to buy bulk alcohol products from other manufacturers for manufacturing purposes. S.B. 905: Allows distillers to sell up to 3,000 gallons per year of their spirits for on-site consumption. They also may sell up to 3,500 gallons of their spirits per year for off-site consumption, as long the spirits are packaged in unopened bottles no larger than 750 milliliters, with commemorative labels, and are sold and limited to two per customer in a 30-day period, among other requirements.

be sold directly to retailers. S.B. 516: Previously, brewers who brewed less than 75,000 barrels per year were allowed to distribute any of that amount to retailers, but those who brewed more than that had to go through a distributor exclusively. With the passage of this bill, however, if a brewer manufactures less than 125,000 barrels per year, they may obtain a distribution permit, which allows them to sell up to 40,000 of those barrels to retailers directly (starting January 1, 2014). S.B. 517: The same rules as S.B. 516, but it applies to manufac-

“It’s a major achievement to get three bills through the Texas Legislature. There is strong bipartisan interest in what’s going on with the local foods movement.” —Judith McGeary, executive director of the Farm and Ranch Freedom Alliance.

turers of ales, whose product contains alcohol levels of greater than 4 percent. S.B. 518: For the first time, small breweries can sell up to 5,000

Local food bills, which took effect September 1, 2013

barrels per year to consumers on-site, as long as they produce

House Bill (H.B.) 970: Picks up on Senate Bill 81, which passed

less than 225,000 barrels per year and meet certain other condi-

in 2011 and allowed home-based production of baked goods and


a few other foods not requiring refrigeration, as long as they

Charles Vallhonrat, the executive director of the Texas Craft Brewers Guild, says these new bills are important for the future of craft beer in Texas. “Economically, we really wanted to push these bills through to be able to grow an industry that’s booming nationwide,” he says. “It’s doing well in Texas, but we wanted to take some of the handcuffs off.”

were sold on-site and did not amount to more than $50,000 per year in sales. In response, various municipalities used zoning ordinances to ban these home-based operations. Therefore, H.B. 970 prohibited zoning ordinances from being used for this purpose, while also expanding the list of permissible foods and adding several new safety requirements. The law also allows these foods to be sold both on-site as well as at other specified off-site locations, such as farmers markets and food festivals.

“This is an exciting time for Texas craft distilleries. Craft distillers will be given more opportunities to grow and promote their unique spirits. This will allow our local distilleries to be increasingly recognized across the United States.” —Scott Stewart, executive director of the Texas Distilled Spirits Association 12



H.B. 1382: Allows farm-stand operators and vendors at farmers markets to provide samples to their customers, as long as the items are prepared and served in a way that meets certain safety requirements. The bill also allows cooking demonstrations at farmers markets and waives permitting fees for them as long as they are for bona fide educational purposes and meet certain other requirements. H.B. 1392: Requires the Department of State Health Services to provide information to farmers and food producers about what they are legally required to do within 30 days of receiving a written information request. —Nicole Lessin

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mported olive oils are often subsidized and sometimes adulterated and mislabeled as “extra-virgin” because of a lack of stan-

dards enforcement. High-quality domestically produced olive oils

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are unsubsidized, yet they still have to compete on the supermarket shelves with their competitors’ lower prices. Meanwhile, the American public remains largely unaware of these factors as their purchasing power continues to swell globally, with the United States currently being the second-largest importer of olive oil. These are some of the findings detailed in the United States International Trade Commission’s report entitled Olive Oil: Conditions of Competition between U.S. and Major Foreign Supplier Industries. “The report gives our government a more objective understanding of our industry, and it gives us a platform from which to establish a dialogue about what the next steps are for the American olive oil industry,” says Karen Lee Henry, managing director of the Texas Olive Oil Council and a partner at Texas Olive Ranch, the largest olive oil producer in the state. According to the report, enforcement doesn’t currently exist for international or USDA standards for extra-virgin olive oil, which

for the love of the kitchen

may give an incentive to some producers to misrepresent the quality of their product. “Official USDA olive oil standards exist but are merely definitions of grades,” the report states. “Currently, there is

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no mechanism to enforce these grades, no government agency that collects and tests random samples of oils, and no penalty for noncompliance with the standards. As a result, studies have found that oils purchased by U.S. consumers that are labeled as extra-virgin often do not meet extra-virgin criteria.” All too often, says Henry, people in the U.S. don’t know the differ-

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farm and an older one that may have been adulterated. “Americans did not grow up with a legacy of olive oil production,” she says. “Once

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this kind of market is profitable and growing, but limited. “High-

like when you went from watching black-and-white TV to color.” The report also conveys that U.S. producers—those from Texas included—tend to focus on producing high-quality, extra-virgin olive oils that appeal to a small niche of informed consumers. Henry says quality, extra-virgin olive oil that’s fresh is only available in very limited circumstances…and there’s a robust market for that in Texas,” she says. “But if you tried to sell your olive oil at the price you can get for it as an artisanal producer on the shelf at any kind of regular grocery store, you’re competing directly with an imported olive oil, and most customers will look at that and not see any significant difference, and therefore make a decision based on price.” Jack Dougherty, owner of First Texas Olive Oil Company, which sells its olive oils exclusively at its Bella Vista Ranch in Wimberley, is not convinced that more regulation would be beneficial, or that labeling rules need to be changed. “We have to develop consumer awareness,” he says. “Instead of fighting over who is making the money and who is getting what, we should be focused on educating the consumer about the benefits of good olive oil…explain to the world how good olive oil is and they will beat a path to your door.” —Nicole Lessin




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etting teenagers who

of Fresh Chefs widened to

are transitioning out of

include not only vocational

the foster care system into

training but also life-skills

the kitchen to cook with area

education—such as shop-

chefs made sense to Shalei-

ping at a grocery store,

ah Fox and McCall Johnson,

eating healthful foods and

the cofounders of Fresh

even stocking a pantry. Of-

C h e f s S o c i e ty , a ye a r -

ten, the events culminate

and-a-half-old organization

in a shared meal with par-

dedicated to empowering

ticipating youth and volun-

youth through the culinary

teers sitting down together

arts. Vocational training in

to eat a fresh, locally grown

the area of food preparation

meal they helped prepare,

would provide these young

on tables covered with real

people with valuable career

tablecloths and even fresh-

skills, and many of the pro-

cut flowers. “We want them

fessional chefs participating

to feel like they are deserv-

in the program, including

ing of sitting down and

Dan Stacy, Barbara Frisbie,

eating like this,” Johnson


explains. “It’s such a great



way to build memories.”

Coté and others, have their

Daetrion White, an ap-

own non-traditional backg rounds—providing

prentice with the program


advantage of more instant connections and even longterm mentoring relation-

Fresh Chefs Society participants (left to right): Chef Rebecca Meeker, cofounder Shaleiah Fox, Destiny Walker, cofounder McCall Johnson, Frida Ramirez, Julie Sanchez, Vickie Johnson

who says he first learned to cook with his aunt, says Fresh Chefs Society gives him many opportunities to

ships with the students. But after meeting with representatives from the social-servic-

get into the kitchen—something he normally is not permitted to

es agencies that serve foster-care youth, Fox and Johnson began

do in his foster home. “It’s really good,” he says. “It helps me be

to realize that exposure to the world of food would also educate

able to get out more and do something I love to do. They help me

these teens in a more basic way. “What we kept hearing was: OK,

realize that I’m in foster care, but I don’t have to be, like, stuck

this is great, but you’re going to get the superstars,” recalls Fox, who

there forever.”

has a master’s degree in social work and went through foster care

Since August of 2012, Fresh Chefs Society has held 48 events

herself. “You’re going to get the youth who will probably do all right

and given approximately 250 foster-care youths a variety of cu-

with or without your program. Really, what we need is cooking edu-

linary opportunities, including interactive cooking demonstra-

cation. We need food-accessibility resource information. We need

tions and tastings, apprenticeships with professional catering

them to basically learn how to go out to dinner.”

companies and chefs, nutrition education and other life skills. In

This dovetailed with what Fox already knew from her own ex-

addition, the organization successfully helped lobby state legis-

periences both in the system and as a volunteer. Many shelters

lators for a bill that was recently passed requiring more nutri-

have centralized kitchens with a limited number of staff mem-

tion and cooking education for youth aging out of the foster-care

bers, who are unable to take the risks associated with young peo-

system. But Fox says she is also focused on what grows out of the

ple cooking. In many foster homes the situation is similar. “I know

programs. “Our long-term goal is through food—just us sitting

some youths in homes where they actually put locks on refrigera-

around cooking. Our supporters are talking to our youths, and

tors,” she notes. “And it’s not that foster parents are bad people.

they figure out they have something in common and they con-

They are [often] dealing with eight to ten foster children with

tinue a relationship past that cooking event,” she notes. “What

completely different issues such as eating disorders, hoarding,

I always say is: even if it’s just once or twice, you still planted a

binging…things like that. So they definitely have to have some

seed. There’s a good chance you’re going to be the one piece of

sort of system.”

stability in that youth’s life, and if you don’t do anything else but

All too often, this lack of exposure to the world of food results in sky-high obesity rates among former foster-care youth, and a lack of preparation for living in the real world. Thus, the scope




just show up when you say you’re going to show up, that speaks volumes.” —Nicole Lessin Visit for more information.

Photography by Thomas Winslow

Fresh Chefs Society

The responsibility of sustainability.

We believe in using locally sourced ingredients in our Culinary Arts and Pastry Arts Programs. We provide individualized hands-on instruction with the classic Escoffier foundation, The Farm To Table速 Experience, and a focus on sustainability.

Visit our campus and learn more about our professional programs today.

6020-B Dillard Circle Austin, Texas 78752 Ph: 512-451-5743 / / escoffierschool For more information about our graduation rates, the median debt of students who completed the program, and other important information, please visit

13-0719_Escoffier_EdibleAustin_resize.indd 1

9/13/13 1:20 PM

Most celebrated market in Central Texas!

620 S Bee Caves/Farm to Market Rd. The Shops at Galleria Sh . op s P k wy





The Floreses by M e r e d i t h B e t h u n e • P h oto g ra p h y by M e l a n i e G r i z z e l


or Laura and Manuel Flores, perfecting the intricate balance between tangy citrus and sweetened milk for their Orange You Dreamy frozen pop has been one of the easier parts of owning a small business. As parents of two young children, the couple had always pondered business ideas that could create flexibility for their family. Then in 2008, they began to realize their dream by selling frozen pops at South Congress Ave-




nue’s First Thursdays and at the Barton Creek Farmers Market under the name PopSoCools. Of course, as is the case with many small businesses, there have been a few setbacks, some of them devastating—like a necessary name change for the business. But the couple deeply believes in their product, and their company and positive attitude have persevered. “We really want to be known as Austin’s original, all-natural frozen pop,” says Manuel.

Hailing from opposite ends of the Texas-Mexico border—Manuel from El Paso, Laura from Brownsville—both grew up eating icy paletas (Mexican-style frozen pops) in flavors like lime and coconut. Unable to find comparable pops made only from fresh fruit, sugar and water, they started making their own at home. “Everything that goes into them is natural,” says Laura. “No chemicals, no nothing.” For the past three years, the Floreses have sold their pops at farmers markets, local retail stores and special events, under the new name Mom & Pops. And even though business is good and demand consistent, they’re choosing to keep the enterprise on the small side. “We’d lose the quality of the product scaling up for supermarkets,” Laura explains. “When we say ‘small batch,’ we mean small batch.” There are about 20 Mom & Pops flavors that rotate seasonally. “Since we’re moving into fall now, we’ll be doing some flavors like Texas Pecan Pie,” Laura says. The pops are made using pies baked from scratch, with local pecans, that are crumbled into chunks and mixed into a creamy base. Chocolate Peppermint will be available for the holiday season and their Chocolate-Covered Strawberry pop is a big hit for Valentine’s Day. The couple particularly values using local ingredients—especially those procured from other farmers market vendor pals. They’re currently collaborating on a kombucha pop with the folks from Buddha’s Brew, for instance. “That’s the great thing about working at the farmers market,” says Laura. “You make friends and team up to make good food.” Because of this perk, the couple is committed to staying at the markets no matter how their company evolves. “Starting at the farmers market, and staying there, has been crucial for us as part of this grassroots effort to improve people’s health,” says Manuel. Since both Manuel and Laura have full-time day jobs outside of the pop business, they recently hired employees to help at the farmers markets and in the kitchen. “We call our team ‘pop stars,’” Laura says with a smile. “We’re ready to start handing off our duties to create jobs.” Occasionally, customers can spot the Floreses’ children—Catalina, age 8, and Ivan, age 6—greeting at the markets, too. And Ivan has even started experimenting with pops in the kitchen. “He’s been making his own,” Manuel boasts. “He’s a junior popsocologist.” As for the future, Manuel and Laura dream of laying a foundation for future generations. “We hope that we can pass on our knowledge to them, whether they continue in the business or not,” says Manuel. Ultimately, the Floreses would like to advise other small-business owners just starting out. “We’d like to help people in a similar position,” says Manuel. “We didn’t have huge savings,” Laura adds. “Just a little bit of money.”

Custom Food Programs

Five years later, money still isn’t their focus. Laura emphasizes the importance of staying loyal to their customers by providing a quality product with a friendly touch, and by “doing it in an honest, not greedy, kind of way.” And they’re incredibly thankful to the Austin community for embracing their work. “Something that we created is bringing people joy,” Manuel says. “It’s pretty amazing that we can do that.”

Available at Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf, Wright Bros. Brew & Brew and Jo’s Coffee

For more information, visit EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM






edible Brew

Real AlE by Lay n e V i cto r i a Ly n c h • P h oto g rap h y by K e l ly Ru c k e r


t’s no secret that Aus-

I’m sure that has something

tin-made brew is in the

to do with the increase of

thick of a cultural revo-

local breweries,” he says.

lution. In just a few short

“Their growth has in turn

years, a handful of outlying

helped us, and we’re all

craft breweries have trans-

working together to inspire

formed into an epicenter

people to drink local Texas

of astoundingly diverse,


creative entities with such

Years before Farbstein

leaders as (512) Brewing

acquired the Real Ale brew-

Company, Austin Beer-

ery, he often escaped to

works and Hops & Grain.

home brewing in his college

With the recent changes

apartment while studying

in Texas alcohol legisla-

economics at the Univer-

tion—allowing breweries

sity of Texas at Austin. Ma-

to sell and serve directly

nipulating such ingredients

on-site—the industry is at

as hops, grains, water and

a tipping point.

yeast, Farbstein honed a sig-

Without original found-

nature collection of home-

ing fathers like Real Ale

made brew for his lacrosse



teammates to kick back and

Live Oak Brewing Com-

critique. “I’ll be honest and



say what initially attracted

brews wouldn’t resemble

me to home brewing was

even a shade of what we’re

the fact that, at 19, it was il-

sipping and savoring to-

legal for me to buy beer but

day. Alongside historic,

I could buy hops and bar-


ley,” Farbstein admits. “As I

Company however,


got more into it though, it

like Spoetzl Brewery and Lone Star Brewing Company, Real Ale has encouraged Texas

became this incredibly challenging process. It feels so methodi-

to fertilize and ferment an award-winning beer culture that

cal to take these very basic ingredients and transform them into

grows in diversity and flavors as the years go by.

something that really fascinates people. To this day, that’s what

Of course, behind every well-made product is a visionary,

inspires me.”

and for Real Ale that creative genius is Brad Farbstein. With a

Years of hustling and bustling as a local distributor for Hous-

team of nearly 60 employees, Farbstein has evolved the Blanco-

ton’s Saint Arnold Brewing Company and Austin’s now-closed

based company from a little-known brewery that produced an

Microbility Beverage eventually led Farbstein to a fated encoun-

average of 500 barrels of beer a year in 1998 to a bustling brand

ter with Philip and Diane Conner of Real Ale, with whom he

that is predicted to reach 55,000 barrels by year’s end. “We’ve

began to formally work in the late ’90s. “I really appreciated their

seen almost a 30 percent growth rate over the past year, and

commitment to high-quality ingredients and consistency with




“We want to focus on being innovative, creative, nimble and flexible. Once you start focusing too much on growth, you inevitably lose your passion.” —Brad Farbstein their beers,” he says. “I honestly think that’s what has helped [Real

and seasonally inspired options like the smooth Coffee Porter and

Ale] become what it is today. We don’t obsess over expansion; instead,

the toffee-sweet, caramely Phoenixx Double Extra Special Bitter.

we focus on creating a product that tastes the same every time.”

One thing Farbstein never plans to do, however, is force his Blanco-

It only seemed fitting, then, that when the Conners decided to sell

based products beyond state lines into unfamiliar territory. “We’re

their young brewery in 1998, Farbstein seized the opportunity to man-

in Texas and that’s how I want to keep it. I once heard someone say

age the brand. With a portfolio of extremely successful Whole Foods

that pigs get fat and hogs get slaughtered, and I absolutely agree

Market stock Farbstein had purchased when he was 11 years old and

with that assertion. We want to focus on being innovative, creative,

a promise for additional profits to come, he bought the historic brew-

nimble and flexible. Once you start focusing too much on growth,

ery from the Conners—bringing the establishment to heights even he

you inevitably lose your passion.”

could have never imagined over the following 15 years.

In the coming months, Real Ale plans to draw on their beverage

The first growth spurt under Farbstein’s wing came with the

creativity and innovation by rolling out additional seasonal and lim-

creation of Real Ale’s most popular beer: Fireman’s #4—a smooth

ited-edition flavors along with the long-awaited tasting room on the

blonde ale inspired by a playful collaboration between Farbstein

second floor of their brewing facility. In the spacious tasting room,

and his bike-craftsman buddy, Greg Mundy of Fireman’s Texas

patrons will be able to sip and savor flavorful, fragrant beers while

Cruzers. “That is the fourth beer in our lineup and it comprises

watching the strenuous production process below and the sprawling

sixty percent of our sales. It’s a great beer…real balanced, hoppy

Hill Country landscape. “We struggled for years to get a bill passed

and appeals to a wide range of beer drinkers.”

that would allow us to do something like this,” Farbstein says. “It’s

Through the years, more members have been added to the eclec-

relieving to see all that energy, support and focus everyone in the

tic family tree, including the full-bodied, award-winning and spicy

industry put into this legislation is finally paying off. I feel like we’re

Rio Blanco Pale Ale, the aromatic, citrusy-sweet Devil’s Backbone

about to see an even greater expansion of Texas breweries.”




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COOKS! 2010


edible TEX-MEX

Cultural Fold: The Austin Breakfast Taco by L es M cG e h e e • P h oto g rap h y by M e l a n i e G r i z z e l


ola, Joe’s Bakery, with your politeness, your cleanliness,

spoon. Especially if you’re eating a runny egg! Growing up, we’d eat

your respect for the traditions that make our Austin lives

tacos for breakfast…but not with eggs. We’d had lots of tacos that

rich. Inside, patrons greet one another with “Hello, sir!” and

street vendors made on their discos, which are like Mexican woks. In

“You tell George I know he’ll feel better soon.” Someone shakes a

El Paso, we had breakfast burritos, but the breakfast taco is definitely

hand; someone hugs a waitress like a sister. This place is part heav-

sort of an Austin/San Antonio thing. It wasn’t until I came to Austin

enly taqueria and part community hub, papered wall-to-wall with

in 1995 that I found out this whole thing about the breakfast taco.

museum-worthy photos of old Austin. And at each booth, diners roll and scoop tortillas into their breakfast plates—a visual hint at the evolution of what has become the holy grail of Central Texan handheld foods. It’s just the right atmosphere to sit down with tacoculture guru Mando Rayo about the new book he’s coauthored with Jarod Neece entitled Austin Breakfast Tacos: The Story of the Most Important Taco of the Day. In the book, Rayo and Neece tell how the great Hispanic restaurant families of Austin took a dash of Texas and a dollop of entrepreneurial perseverance, steeped them in the traditions of their abuelas, and created the glorious breakfast-taco scene that is as near to an Austinite’s heart as live music and Barton Springs. Rayo places his

[While Rayo is talking, a gentleman walks up. They shake hands vigorously and quickly recap where they’ve been eating breakfast lately. Overlapping bilingual conversation speeds by: Hola! How you doin’? You been away from la familia traveling? Where you been? What day you back? Andale! Let’s get together. It turns out that the gentleman is none other than Virgil Limon, of the Limon family that Rayo includes in the book—a huge old-Austin family that owns several local businesses and includes multiple generations of musicians. Could this be anywhere else but Austin?]

EA: So, Austin versus San Antonio. Breakfast tacos. Who wins?

order with the waitress: “Puro tacos para mi. Uno es de huevo, frijole y

MR: Well, if you want great traditional tacos, you’ll find a lot of

tocino, and el otro me da uno bean and cheese”—a perfect illustration

them in San Antonio. But if you want to find great breakfast tacos

of the blend of traditions we’re about to enjoy. Then he proceeds to

that kind of go in a new way, you want to go to Austin. Austin owns

expound on the cultural, regional and economic ramifications of the

the breakfast taco. San Antonio will say they have the best tortillas,

breakfast taco, and the many reasons he calls Austin “the Breakfast

or the best puffy tacos and regular tacos, but in Austin, we are pas-

Taco Capital of the World.”

sionate about our breakfast tacos.

Edible Austin: Flour or corn? Mando Rayo: It depends on what I’m having, but my preference is corn. My taste is more traditional…I like the earthy tones. I’m originally from El Paso, so I grew up with fresh flour tortillas every day, made by my mom, my abuela or my tias…it was awesome.

EA: Whence did the breakfast taco come? Did it migrate north like mesquite?

EA: In your book, you pay respect to the families that created our oldest taquerias. You also focus on some great trailer breakfast tacos. The families went through trials and tribulations to keep the family businesses going, yet the businesses are increasingly surrounded by food trailers. Do you think the trailers threaten our long-standing businesses, since it costs so much more to operate a taqueria than a trailer?

MR: It’s great to start out incrementally. As a matter of fact, Joe’s

MR: There are a lot of theories. If you’re of Mexican heritage,

started next door over there (he points) where that little burger-

you used your tortilla as a utensil, right? So you use it, you scoop

joint building is, before they moved into this building. So while it

it, you tear it and it becomes your own version of a taco. That was

wasn’t a trailer, they started very small so it was incremental growth.

the natural thing to do with a tortilla, and it sure tastes better than a

El Tacorrido, which started in a little shack in North Austin, now




Jarod Neece (left) and Mando Rayo (right) at Joe‘s Bakery& Coffee Shop EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM



has multiple locations. They started small and grew. So, I think it’s

from. Whether you’re born and raised Texan Anglo or Latino, you’re

good. The cafés have a chance to have a lot of character and environ-

Texan, and we share a lot of culture. The best part about explaining

ment—you don’t really get that out of a trailer. The trailers impact

it through tacos is, you eat it! Instead of breaking bread, we’re break-

communities in different ways. For instance, a great time to sell tacos

ing tortilla!

is as the bars close. In the ’90s, mainly in the East Riverside Drive area, there was a movement to shut the taquerias down. [The City] said they were open too late and were rowdy. So they created stricter ordinances for taquerias. Then, more mainstream entrepreneurs said, Hey, we could do this. Torchy’s Tacos, for instance, started off in a trailer, yet was more established, and it seemed to kind of make the taco trailer scene more acceptable.

EA: Are the majority of our good breakfast tacos in South Austin? MR: No. There’s a strip on North Lamar near Rundberg with some awesome tacos. It’s like going back in time. Like transferring yourself to Mexico. The original El Tacorrido feels like that. There are pockets of immigrant communities Southeast, Riverside, North Lamar, et cetera. They all have great, high-quality traditional tacos.

EA: What about those American breakfast tacos? Fried chicken, ranch, sausage wraps?

EA: OK…you’re opening a breakfast taco trailer tomorrow. You will only have great tortillas and five ingredients. What are they?

MR: It’s a compliment…you have to take it like a compliment. It’ll stay rooted in the Mexican culture, but if they can do something cool and new with it, that’s awesome. It’s that evolution of the taco… all the Korean tacos, barbecue tacos…all of it.

MR: First of all, we need to bring my grandmother back to life, or at least one of my tias, to make the tortillas. I want to have tortillas from my family tradition, not the evolutionary Austin tortillas. I’d like to make them with my childhood El Paso water, too. Beans…

EA: You’re a Latino engagement strategist by day. That part of your world seems to have a lot in common with your philosophy of cultural evolution and the taco.

totally important. You can prep them in different styles. If you have good beans and salsa, you know you’re off to a good start. We’ll use a thin layer of creamy beans on our taco…it’s the Mexican mayo! Heat, spice or salsa—whether jalapeño or chile de arbol. For me, I

MR: Yeah…for me, culture is the one thing in my world that re-

like a jalapeño-based creamy sauce. The jalapeños can be really hot,

ally makes a connection. For instance, at the end of the day, you’re

or medium, but never, ever mild. Eggs…we have a chicken at home.

not just eating tacos, you’re eating culture, tradition, history. The

Farm-fresh eggs make all the difference in the world—they’re but-

tortilla and where it came from, and the chile, and where it all came

tery without butter. So, we’ll have a small chicken coop behind the




30 locations in Central Texas




trailer. Meat—something that stands out. I might go with a machacado [spiced, dried, shredded beef]. Or a variation on that, with barbecue leftovers and bring in both worlds! I’m a huge fan of bacon, but machacado beats bacon. For the final ingredient: onion. Sautéed and glazed onion. That’s how I’ll make the taco. Like I make it at home!

EA: How’s the book doing? MR: Locally, we’re number one in the food sections at BookPeople [and] Barnes and Noble. Also doing great in San Antonio, Houston, L.A. People get it. Our Austin breakfast taco is becoming like the Chicago hot dog or New York pizza—something a city is known for.

EA: Are you hiding any badass breakfast taco places from us to keep them to yourself?

MR: No…no. For me, my whole reason for existence is to tell people about these kinds of places. They already know about the Tacodelis, the Torchy’s and the Güero’s. I want them to know about the taco trailers on Montopolis, East Riverside, North Lamar, ’cause we need to support what we’re doing here. It only takes a few minutes to drive east, or north, or south—but probably not west! I guess there’s one west-side taco trailer in the book, WhaTaTaco on Bee Cave Road.

EA: Are you changing the view of Austin and Mexican-American culture with this book, as much as you’re talking about the cuisine?

MR: Yeah, I want to share the pride with which people maintain these traditions, even as they create new things. I want to show the roots of Mexican immigrant culture in modern Austin.

EA: What’s the breakfast taco future? MR: The future is in the salsa! As the influence of Mexican culture grows across the U.S., the different generations will still carry traditions forward. A lot of that is in the food. The more that we can talk about the real stories behind the food, the more authentic we can keep the cuisine, even as it evolves. For more information, visit Mando Rayo’s blog at tacojournalism. and find his book, Austin Breakfast Tacos: The Story of the Most Important Taco of the Day, at local booksellers.




History of the Breakfast TacO in Austin Excerpt from Austin Breakfast Tacos: The Story of the Most Important Taco of the Day, by Mando Rayo and Jarod Neece (Copyright ©2013 by Mando Rayo and Jarod Neece), published by American Palate, a division of The History Press, Charleston, SC 29403


t all started with Old Mexican town—what is now Republic

Excerpt from Joe's Bakery & Coffee Shop:

Square Park at Guadalupe and Fifth Streets. That’s where the first Mexicans lived—right in downtown Austin. Before condos and

the east side, families who emigrated from Mexico settled in Austin

What is your most popular breakfast taco and why? What makes it stand out?

in the 1870s. A handful of immigrants came here for a better life and

Our most popular breakfast taco item is our bacon. People tend

worked as soda jerks, ranch hands and workers in tortilla and chili

to think our bacon is deep-fried, but it’s not. Our bacon is battered in

factories. Those were the early days of Mexican life in Austin.

an all-purpose flour before it is put on our grill. Once it is grilled, the

In the 1890s and early 1900s, the development of Mexican-

bacon takes on a nice brown color and crispy taste.

owned businesses—a meat market (Ben Garza), a doctor’s office (Alberto Garcia), the first tortilla factory (Crescenciano Segovia;

Why do you think Austinites love breakfast tacos so much?

Austin Tortilla Manufacturing Company, 1922) in Austin and the

The breakfast taco is a staple in Austin because there are so

predecessor to the taco trailers—sprouted up in the form of tama-

many variations to choose from. Originally, the taco was for the

le and chili stands. In an Austin American-Statesman article from

working-class person who couldn’t afford to buy their lunch, and

the 1950s, writer Hamilton Wright professed, “Back in 1893 on the

their wife or mother would make them breakfast and send a taco:

courthouse square one had no trouble finding a Mexican vendor.”

a hot one for the morning and cold one for lunch. However, over

And so began the influence of Mexican culture into what we now

the years, the taco has gained popularity because of the smaller

know of taco trailers, Mexican and Tex-Mex food and cuisine.

portion sizes and the ability to create your own taco. The taco al-

During the Depression and into the 1930s and ’40s, Austin experienced the emergence of Mexican restaurants by the Carlin family

lows people the freedom to pick and choose their favorite items and create the best combination for their taste buds.

(Jose Trujillo Carlin and Elvira Hernandez), including El Charro Restaurant (Red River and Ninth Street) and El Charro #2 (on Speedway by the University of Texas) and La Tapatia. During a time when the Mexican community was establishing itself, the 1928 City Plan for Austin relocated Mexicans to the east side of town to segregate minority communities. Mexicans and Latinos have a culture of bePhotography by Dennis Burnett

ing entrepreneurial, and soon more restaurants were established, including El Mat, “home of the crispy taco” (1947); El Matamoros Restaurant (1957); and Matt’s El Rancho (1952). Local east side favorites like Joe’s Bakery (1962), El Azteca (1963) and Cisco’s Restaurant Bakery (1959) settled in East Austin and are still open today. The basic formula of these restaurants was to serve their customers food just like they would make at home, but there was still no sign of breakfast tacos like we have today. From the 1970s to the 1990s, the United States experienced exponential growth in immigration. Austin was no exception. With increased community members from Mexico and Central and South America, and mixed with multigenerational Tejanos, Austin’s food scene started to boom. It was in the early 1980s when the commercialization of breakfast tacos began with the Tamale House on Airport Road, Las Manitas on Congress and other established restaurants. In the late 1980s and early 1990s, Austin experienced a growth of small Latino-owned businesses in the form of taco trucks and trailers. Soon thereafter, chefs and other entrepreneurs followed suit, and today Austin is a mecca for food trailers. In sharing the history of the breakfast taco, I interviewed people I call Los Elders, restaurateurs and Austinites who have longer histories than what’s in libraries and articles. These are some of their stories.




Bacon and Egg Taco 1 tortilla of your choice (Of course, we prefer flour because they are made fresh daily.) 1 t. oil in frying pan (We use melted shortening, just the way grandma used to. For the health conscious, you can use olive oil.) 1 egg, scrambled well with salt and pepper 1 strip of bacon (Our famous bacon is coated in an all-purpose flour before it is placed on the grill.) Add bacon and egg to hot tortilla and fold.


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by C l a i r e C e l l a • P h oto g rap h y by A n dy Sam s


tin society in the early 19th and 20th centuries. Take, for instance,

kind that involves storing away old photographs or rare man-

the Austin City Directory of 1908, which lists seven grocers within a

uscripts, though. What he’s salvaging are the foodways of Austin; the

few-block radius of that very same corner. Most of them were small,

ways that food has interacted with this city’s culture and history.

privately owned stores, listed not as recognizable franchises, but

llen Rogers might not admit it yet, but his Rosewood Com-

Rosewood Community Market resembles the foodways of Aus-

munity Market is a valiant endeavor in preservation. Not the

The market—situated on the corner of Chicon Street and Rose-

simply by the name of the owner. Fast-forward to 1940, and still more

wood Avenue—offers much more than simply the specific grassfed

grocers and markets abounded. In 1970, there was even a grocery,

heritage meats that are written on the chalkboard or the organic

Stark Willie’s, located just a few doors down from where Rogers’s

heirloom vegetables that line the farm table in the center of the

market currently sits. What’s more is that these grocers were usually

store’s single room. It’s a place where the local community can find

stocked with locally sourced goods to help sustain the community’s

essential provisions and an appreciation for today’s local farmers

daily dietary needs, just like Rosewood.

and artisans, but also remain connected to the legacy of community stores and neighborhood grocers in Austin. 30



Unfortunately, since the late 1980s, the grocery food options— natural, unpackaged and non-fried options, at least—on the East

Side have diminished. In fact, one prominent reason Rogers and his

the market is closer and more convenient. Sometimes, items at Rose-

co-manager, Elizabeth Nowrouz, started Rosewood in that location

wood can even be the same price, if not cheaper than, those at larger

was because the neighborhood that it serves was considered a “food

grocers. “There can be this stigma around micro-groceries that you

desert,” according to the USDA, or an urban neighborhood “without

have to pay more,” Rogers says. “But that’s the opposite of what we

ready access to fresh, healthy and affordable food.” In these areas,

want to achieve. We want it to be as affordable as possible.”

“at least 500 people and/or at least 33 percent of the census tract’s

Rogers says he and Nowrouz make an effort to work with cus-

population must reside more than one mile from a supermarket or

tomers to make items affordable. On top of accepting SNAP and

large grocery store,” notes the USDA. That means in East Austin’s

Lone Star Card, Rogers is often known to take 10 percent off the

recent history, one of the foodways has shut down, and Rogers is out

top of sales. “It’s about a state of mind,” he says. “How we consume;

to change that.

how we interact. Everything about this place was chosen with that

Rogers and Nowrouz received support to open Rosewood from

thoughtfulness: that we want to react to our environment and think

PeopleFund—a community development financial institution—be-

about what we’re consuming. It’s meant to be a safe space for people,

cause of the market’s prospective power to become a sustaining food

and anyone who walks in the door can see that immediately.”

hub for the local community, and provide both food access and food

Rogers realizes that change can take time, of course. But right

security where there were none. Although Rogers knew opening

now, he’s focused on the positive developments within the past few

the store wasn’t going to be easy, there have been daily challenges.

months. Rosewood has joined, and now contributes to, CitySprout—

“We’re still obscure,” he says. “And there’s no other commerce on

a Web-based exchange site that brings local farm produce and prod-

this corner to speak of. We’re off the beaten path a little bit.”

ucts to businesses and neighborhoods. The market has also opened

But he’s quick to mention that the anonymity and isolation are

up its commercial kitchen space for rent on Mondays and Tuesdays

also significant justification for why the market is there in the first

to host educational cooking programs, and Rogers and Nowrouz are

place. “We’re embedded in this neighborhood,” he says. “And we’re

starting to experiment with the possibility of turning Rosewood into

trying to show that little markets like this can support neighbor-

a co-op. “We used to exist in small, local communities before the in-

hoods and become a part of daily life. Our goal is to supply anything

dustrial food complex,” he says. “It’s simply that this is a choice now;

you need to make a meal that day of that week.”

Rosewood Community Market is an option. Hopefully, more people

Of course many of the market’s offerings—which include local

will decide that this is the thing they want to support. You can effect

delights like goat chops from Windy Hill Farm, Johnson’s Backyard

real change in a person’s life in a small way by doing a small thing,”

Garden kale and Mill-King Market & Creamery milk—are already

Rogers says, “and that’s a pretty big deal.”

healthier and fresher than the products at the big-box grocer, and

For more information, visit EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM




Table of Plenty by A m y C row e l l

Picnicking near Canton, Texas, from the collections of the Texas/Dallas History and Archives Division, Dallas Public Library


id-1800s Texas is one of the last places you’d expect to

Texas—offering plant and animal diversity that would supply the

experience what the French refer to as a table recherché,

resources for many new colonies to begin and survive. The abun-

a refined meal of sought-after delicacies. Just emerging

dance that drew people to the area we live in today continues to

as a state and nursing fresh wounds from the Mexican-American

offer a unique selection of wild plants and animals to enjoy both

War, Texas was still wild, dangerous and rough in many spots. Yet

in our landscapes and on our tables.

European settlers steadily trickled across her new borders, bringing with them high hopes and hungry families. As many of them made their way inland, they watched the

In 1844, Henri Castro, founder of what would eventually be called Castroville, described in his journal a September meal he shared with his guests in the newly forming Alsatian settlement:

landscape transition slowly from moist, forested rolling hills in

“I was able to offer…vermicelli soup made with the bones

the east to drier scrub brush and dusty desert dotted with cac-

of deer (nothing can be so delicate), fried trout, roasted turkey

tus and mesquite. This mosaic of bioregions converged in Central

and partridges…for dessert a cream made with eggs and milk




produced in the colony. Pecans gathered at the door of the din-

likely quail and bass. The medlars, or wild crab apples, were prob-

ing room, medlars and wild pomegranates. Red wine made by

ably Texas persimmons (Diospyros texana) or wild plums (Prunus

a German of wild grapes…I attach importance to these details

americana spp.), which would be ripe in September and could be

because they indicate the resources of which we could make

mistaken for actual medlars. While Texas does offer some wild

use. At Paris one could find nothing more rare or more delicate,

crab apples, they are more rare and would probably not have been

though he paid a great price. Is it not worthy of notice that we

growing in abundance near Castro’s original settlement. Wine

had in the middle of the desert, without expense, all the delica-

made from wild grapes (probably our native mustang grape—

cies of a table recherché? That, nevertheless, is what is at the

Vitis mustangensis) was an essential part of his feast, and high-

door of every colonist.”

lights a food tradition carried over from the Old World that’s still

This entry is one of my favorite references to the wild foods

important to our modern meals. All of these fabulous, wild delica-

common on an early Central Texas settler’s table. We’d expect

cies can be found in our area today, and offer many opportunities

pecans and deer, of course, but the references to partridges and

to create wines, jams, jellies and meat dishes that the mid-1800s

trout were Castro’s common European names for what were most

settlers depended on and enjoyed.

Grilled Pork-Venison Sausage with Texas Persimmon Sauce

Wild Fruit Jelly


his sausage recipe is an Alsatian family recipe, passed down from generation to generation, and is still used today. The fam-

ily who shared this recipe lives in D’Hanis—one of Henri Castro’s original settlements—and gets together every year to carry on the tradition of hunting and making sausage together. This recipe will make enough patties for a large dinner party. You can also seal up the extra meat mixture in an airtight freezer bag and store in the freezer for up to two months. For the sausage: 5 lb. ground venison 5 lb. ground pork ¼ c. salt 2 T. ground black pepper 1 T. ground coriander 3–5 cloves garlic, peeled and minced 1 T. mustard seeds (optional) Texas persimmon sauce (recipe below)

Mix the meat and spices together—preferably by hand—and form into 4-inch patties. Grill the patties over medium heat for 3 to 4 minutes on each side—turning at least 4 times. After the last turn, spread some of the persimmon sauce onto each patty. Remove from the heat and serve with additional persimmon sauce drizzled over the patties or on the side for dipping. For the sauce: The Texas persimmon is truly unique to our area (Texas and northern Mexico), as it grows nowhere else in the world! Do not confuse these small black, large-seeded fruit for the orange market varieties of fuyu or hachiya persimmons. Castro and the early settlers probably made good use of Texas persimmons in many ways, but one of the easiest and purest ways to enjoy this tasty, sweet fruit is to pulp it. Simply wash the fruit and place it in a food mill or cone sieve. You can also use a colander and the back of a large, wooden spoon or a bowl that is slightly smaller than the colander. Mash down on the fruit (making sure the mill or sieve is sitting over a bowl) and push the smooth pulp through into the bowl. You’ll end up with a smooth, black, fruity sauce, or paste, that is the perfect consistency for spreading. Mix in a bit of water and drizzle over the grilled sausages.


ild fruits common to Central Texas that can be used in this recipe include prickly pear tunas, grapes, mulberries, elder-

berries, plums, blackberries, persimmons, Turk’s cap fruit, agaritas and a few others. Consider this recipe a guide, and feel free to experiment with different amounts of sweeteners and juices until you create the recipe that is perfect for your palate. Wash the fruit, remove the stems and place in a saucepan. Unless you’re using agaritas, cover the fruit with water and bring the pot to a boil for 10 to 15 minutes. (When extracting agarita juice, do not boil the water. Instead, pour hot water that has not yet boiled over the berries, let it steep for a few hours then proceed with the recipe.) Remove from the heat, gently mash the fruit with a potato masher or the back of a spoon to extract the juices and let cool for up to 1 hour. Push the fruit through a sieve lined with cheesecloth or a jelly bag to extract the fruit juice. Measure the amount of juice and place the juice back into the saucepan. For each cup of wild fruit juice, add: 1 T. lemon juice 1 t. Pomona’s calcium water ½ c. sugar or ¹/³ c. honey ½ t. of Pomona’s Universal Pectin (follow directions on box) Bring the fruit juice, lemon juice and calcium water to a boil. Combine the sugar with the pectin and add to the boiling juice. Stir until the pectin is dissolved then allow the mixture to boil for 1–2 minutes. Remove from the heat and pour into sterilized jars. If you plan to keep the jelly for several months, process in a hot-water bath for 10 minutes. To enjoy it right away, though, store the jelly in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks.

Texas persimmon (Diospyros texana). EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM



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If you come to Fredericksburg anticipating authentic German cuisine, we will not disappoint. But further exploration will reveal restaurateurs that offer decidedly more diverse menus. Escolar and lobster. Seared duck breast with ginger/orange glaze. Tender steaks. And very naughty desserts. All complemented by award-winning cabernets, tempranillos, viogniers and rieslings from our numerous vineyards and wineries. Incidentally, “Zauber” is the German word for “magic.” Guten Appetit. H V i s i t F re d e r i c k s b u r g T X . c o m

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Milagro Farm by R e b ecca P e rso n s • P h oto g rap h y by Pau l i n e St ev e n s



n Milagro Farm, just outside of Austin, farmers

every chicken they have, by hand. “I do all the labor but Amy’s

Kris and Amy Olsen’s two large chicken coops sit

the big thinker,” he says. “I work hard; she works smart.”

perpendicular to each other—one facing a serene

That hard work was partly inspired by Kris’s fond memo-

pond filled with bass and the other facing a garden waiting

ries of being a Boy Scout, where an intense love for the nat-

to sprout its winter bounty. The humming and chirping from

ural world and living off of the land emerged. The interest

the ladies inside the coops begin to rise as we approach;

continued to grow as he became an adult, and eventually led

then, all of a sudden, we’re engulfed in a yellow blur of 500

to survivalist periods where Kris challenged himself to live

two-week-old baby chicks. Avery, the Olsens’ spirited four-

alone in the wilderness—sometimes up to 40 days with only

year-old, plucks up a chick and effortlessly balances it on top

a fanny pack and his hands for tools.

of her head. “Avery is usually found with a chicken tucked in

He took the skills he’d learned during these adventures and

her dress, carrying it around in her pockets, kissing chick-

shared them with game wardens, hunting guides and sheriffs,

ens, holding chickens, hugging chickens,” says Amy.

but he still yearned for another way to connect people with

Chickens are simply part of the family around here, and

the natural world he loved so much. It wasn’t until he read

customers who clamor for the Olsens’ fresh eggs often ask

the first chapter in Mel Bartholomew’s book, The Square Foot

what makes them taste so good. But it’s not an old family

Gardener, that he knew the answer. “A lightbulb went off at

secret; it’s just good tending. Kris feeds, monitors and raises

that moment in my brain,” he says. “I needed to be a farmer






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because that was the best way to teach people about nature.” He had good success with a garden in his mom’s backyard, and eventually landed a gig running a 10-acre farm in Aguanga, California. In two years, that farm expanded from cultivating five to five hundred acres—participating in 23 farmers markets a week and selling to the Whole Foods Market distribution center. “It was a lot of work,” says Kris. “We’d sell over a million dollars a year and we didn’t make money.”

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After Kris and Amy married in 2004, making money became more necessary because they wanted to start a family. They moved off the grid, to a modest two-acre farm plot on the side of a mountain about three hours outside of San Diego and became profitable. But the couple soon realized that they were too far from city life and they missed it. They began to search for a place that offered a balance of city and country life, which drew them near Austin to the land that would become their new farm.

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soil cracked and dry. But one thing remained the same. “During

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it. There were tons of nutrients that made the plants healthy.” pestuous weather. Bugs infiltrated their land and drought left the

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Then came the chickens—Amy’s idea. They started out with 30 birds to complement their growing farm. “That first year we did so


all those times I lost crops,” Kris says, “I noticed the chickens were always producing for us.” Now with 13 acres of land and experience under their belts, the Olsens’ production line has grown to 2,600 chickens. And it turns out there really is a secret to the taste of those eggs. Kris says the key is irrigating the pastures. Without it, the chickens would be ripping up the dirt or chasing one another. Instead, they eat lush grasses all day, which give them the nutrients and energy they need to create the savory eggs he sells. “It’s what they naturally want to be doing,” he says. Kris continues to believe in connecting people back to the earth and nature by growing good, nutritious food. This season, it’ll be onions, green garlic, lettuce, chard and beets; in the summer, it’s cherry tomatoes, sweet bell peppers and butternut squash. Their popular eggs, however, are available year-round. Find Milagro Farm eggs and produce at the SFC Farmers’ Market– Triangle on Wednesdays from 3 to 7 p.m., and at SFC Farmers’ Market–Downtown on Saturdays from 9 a.m. to 1 p.m.

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Seasonal MUSE

DIRT FARMING by Ca ro l A n n SaY l e


grew up playing in

to Waco to raise her five

dirt. A truckload of

kids on a secretary’s sal-

authentic topsoil—

ary. Her daughter, Little

richly dark with life—de-

Dove (my mother), want-

livered to our Balcones

ed nothing to do with

Heights lot outside of

farming for the rest of

San Antonio in the 1940s

her life, although she was

and ’50s served as a tem-

oddly proud of me for be-

porary amusement park

ing successful at it. Thus the heritage of

for me. I sculpted caves, and

the grandparent farmers

piled up mountain peaks

jumped Little Dove’s gen-

on the mound in fever-

eration to rest in me. I’ve

ish delight, just ahead of

done other things in my

my father’s shovel and

life—taught school for a



couple of years, worked

wheelbarrow. Chief (his nickname) struggled to spread the dirt evenly over the native caliche

with Larry in real estate for a few, painted for 20—yet, after more than

and doomed St. Augustine grass, while I dreaded the pile’s disper-

two decades on the land, I’m still a bit surprised that I am a farmer.

sion. Finally, I would relocate to a vacant lot nearby, which, because

Probably my being attracted to farm boys made it an eventual outcome.

of the endless drought, was bare of any vegetative life.

On a cool November morning, as I contentedly cultivate young

In solitary play on the lot, my imagination ran to stories. The

lettuces in the front field of this farm, a middle-aged woman and her

characters in these dramas were bright gold, empty shell casings

mother drive up, roll down the car window and tell me that they are

(Flash Gordon and an army of hollow soldiers), or a little plastic

making a “trial run” so that they won’t feel anxious trying to find the

Roy Rogers with permanently bowed legs (as if still astride Trigger)

farm on market day. I nod sympathetically—navigating an unknown

and a Dale Evans (also horseless but standing straight) that partici-

route while dodging traffic is tough for folks who remember empty

pated in awkward “Western” kissing scenes (yes, of course the cow-

streets, slower speeds and soft dirt from long ago.

persons partook of those) as Roy’s lips were at a different altitude

After we discuss the potential market offerings for the next day,

than Dale’s. But the pale soil—the backdrop for those frustrated little

the mother tells me, in a quiet, nostalgic voice that I remind her of her

lives—was the most important character. I rarely wore shoes then,

grandmother. As I continue to break the crust of the soil with the shal-

even on excursions to downtown San Antonio—which was fine with

low strokes of my long-handled swan-neck hoe, she says, “she held

Chief, as he felt shoes were better saved for school—and my feet and

her hoe like you do: her back straight, both thumbs up, like hitching a

legs were covered daily in the cloying dust.

ride.” As the women leave, I think of all the long-gone grandmoth-

Sixty years later, I still love to feel the soil with my bare feet, although it is now a seldom-felt sensation. Farming requires foot-

ers—young women, old women—in their gardens, hoeing and pulling weeds from moist soil, giving the lettuce room to grow.

wear lest one become hobbled from injuries. It’s easy to be slowed

I am happy that this is my ultimate heritage. One day, when I’m

by looking for stones and sticks when treading back and forth along

too crunchy to be serious about farming, I’ll kick off my boots, drape

the growing beds, and no one wants a toe chopped off by a tool. Alas,

them with my dirty socks and allow my feet to feel the warmth of

farming’s just too much cautious business and not enough play.

the soil in my kitchen garden. I’ll grasp the hoe handle—my thumbs

It was also serious business for my maternal grandparents, who were tenant cotton farmers in Coryell County at the beginning of the

up and my back straight—and I’ll think of my grandmother in her own garden.

last century. They didn’t stay with it however, even though my grandmother loved her chickens, as do I, because the influenza of World

Carol Ann Sayle is co-owner of Boggy Creek Farm with husband,

War I took my grandfather, and reality relocated his young widow

Larry Butler.




WANTED Gifts that deliver real reward

This season, don’t just give the usual suspects. Put a vegetable garden on your most-wanted list and help a family living in poverty put food on the table.








MING’S THING by S h e l l ey S e a l e • P h oto g r ap h y By M A RKS M OORE


ing Qian was a young girl in China, working closely

with her time. “I wanted to be in the food business, but the hotel

alongside her mother in their kitchen, when a love for

and restaurant business has very long hours. You don’t really have

cooking blossomed. “That’s where it started,” she says.

your own life, and I wanted time with my family.”

“[Mom] put in a little of this…a little of that.” In fact, it was a

Qian’s friends had been enjoying her Chinese snack foods and

yearning for her mother’s home cooking that started Qian on

suggested she sell the creations at the farmers market. In Novem-

a food journey in San Antonio, and to the eventual opening of

ber 2011, the Ming’s Thing booth opened at the Quarry Farmers &

Ming’s Thing—her farmers market stand and catering business. “I

Ranchers Market. Von Bargen says he feels blessed that his wife

really started cooking by trying to re-create that taste of home,”

shares his passion for food. “We are a very food-centric family,”

she says. “My mom wasn’t here, so I had to do it. I would call and

he says. “The market is like our family time; our daughter comes

ask her things, but she was half a world away and I had to figure

with us every Sunday.”

it out for myself.”

The culinary philosophy of Ming’s Thing, Von Bargen says, is

The path that brought Qian to San Antonio was a circuitous

to take existing taste profiles and incorporate them into Qian’s

one. Her first job in Beijing was in hospitality management at

type of food. “I’m not a fine-dining type of guy; I love casual com-

the China World Hotel, which exposed her to all types of dishes

fort food,” he says. “Our charcuterie and the kimchi and barley

from around the globe. Her father also worked internationally,

sausage are examples of something we have evolved—they aren’t

and brought back many exotic edibles from different parts of the

traditional, [and] have other influences such as Thai.”

world. “I also had a lot of contact at work with international trav-

Von Bargen adds that the farmers market is a great way to in-

elers,” Qian says, “and I wished that I could travel like them one

troduce these new flavors, through tastings and samples that offer

day. I started traveling throughout China, visiting small hole-in-

a useful tool in raising awareness. “We want to provide some-

the-wall restaurants and street food carts. Things were so differ-

thing different, and Asian cuisines offer a great variety,” he notes.

ent from my mom’s food! All the different flavor profiles were

“We’ve grown with the evolving San Antonio food scene—being

amazing. I wanted to try it all!”

part of the developing trends.”

Qian’s chance to travel internationally came when she met her

They admit that the creative risks they enjoy incorporating

future husband, Hinnerk Von Bargen, a chef at the Kempinski Ho-

into their foods take some customers aback. The cold Szechuan

tel in Beijing, where Qian also worked. After their 1998 marriage,

noodle salad on the summer menu is one example, as well as the

the couple moved to his native Germany, but Qian was unpre-

smoked pork-belly steak and their most popular dish: the “Sloopy

pared for the way she felt living in a foreign land. “I really missed

Wang”—a tangy, Asian-style pulled-pork spin-off of the sloppy

home and family,” she says. “Things from China, I missed, and

joe. “People will ask, What is this?” Qian says. “I suggest they just

couldn’t get them in Germany. But I told myself, you have to deal

try it. I love to see that reaction…when they discover something

with it and change your attitude. If you open your mind to see the

new and they love it. It’s very rewarding.”

positive, you can see the beauty in anything. That’s when Germany became my home.”

Currently, Qian has recently expanded to Pearl Farmers Market on Saturdays, and has been doing more catering jobs. Melina

The next year, when Von Bargen was offered a teaching job at

now comes into the kitchen with her sometimes, and when asked

the Culinary Institute of America (CIA) in Hyde Park, New York,

if that brings back memories of her own childhood, Qian seems

the couple moved to the U.S. After 10 years at that location, the

awash with emotion and says, “I hadn’t ever thought of it before…

CIA transferred Von Bargen to the newly-opened San Antonio lo-

but yes, it is the same. A new legacy.”

cation in 2009. There, Qian began to re-create her favorite childhood dishes.

 For more information, visit and find the

She also made new Chinese and American friends, and learned

Ming’s Thing booth every Sunday from 9 a.m. to 1 p.m. at the

new cooking techniques from them. With their daughter, Melina,

Quarry Farmers & Ranchers Market, and Saturdays at Pearl

now in elementary school, Qian wanted something new to do

Farmers Market.




Olives eaten in pairs bring good fortune, but eating a lone olive leads straight to the grave, maybe. In the Mediterranean, such paltry snacks are for mourners only.

If you want to get married, always finish your rice! Leftover grains will correspond to the number of pockmarks on the face of your future spouse.  TRUE  FALSE

 TRUE  FALSE Pork is a lucky food because: a. Pigs can’t look behind themselves without turning all the way around and since they like to conserve energy, they usually just look ahead. Thereby guaranteeing whoever eats them an excellent future.  TRUE  FALSE b. Pigs can be converted into bacon, which adds crunchy richness to life. This superstition dates back to a time when people could never be too rich or too fat.  TRUE  FALSE A date who over-salts your dinner has fallen in love with you.  TRUE  FALSE

The following food behaviors guarantee good luck at the start of a new year: a. Eating 12 grapes in 12 seconds on New Year’s Eve, beginning exactly at midnight. In Spain.  TRUE  FALSE b. Eating fish heads on Rosh Hashanah, the Jewish New Year. As bubbe always said: head of the fish/whatever you wish!  TRUE  FALSE c. If the New Year’s meal contains a chicken with its head attached, ensure that the head never faces you, which would mean your boss hates you and you will lose your job.  TRUE  FALSE d. Smashing a pomegranate against your front door. Or so say the Greeks.  TRUE  FALSE e. Slurping long noodles in such a manner as to leave them unbroken. No biting or cutting! Long noodles, long life.  TRUE  FALSE





GOOD FORTUNE FOODS by ROBIN C HOTZ i n o ff • I l lust rat i o n s by Bam b i E D LUN D


ll the food superstitions in the quiz (opposite page) are truly documented superstitions, except for 2b, the one about wealth, fat and bacon, which I made up. But that’s

the thing with these customs—they had to start somewhere, and surely that means somewhere random. For instance, an Orthodox Jewish housewife will swing a live chicken around her head before Yom Kippur, in the hope that it will absorb her sins pre-

would break out. Before the first sip of wine, you were to spill a

atonement. Did this commandment emanate from God? Is it men-

drop on the earth, unless you were drinking in a city apartment

tioned in the Bible? No. It came from Rabbis With Too Much Time

and there was no earth, in which case you were excused and your

On Their Hands, and if they could push through such a ludicrous

luck held. The last step of eating a soft-boiled egg was to poke

policy, there’s hope for me.

a hole in the bottom of the eggshell. No one explained it at the

Perhaps someday the pig/bacon/wealth superstition will be

time, but I now know it lets the devil out, and that the custom

accepted as culinary peasant wisdom and I will have been the

can be traced to the British Isles, where the devil appears more

original peasant—a job for which I have the right DNA.

often at breakfast than he does in, say, Corsica, where he carries off anyone who falls asleep under a fig tree. (Fig-tree sleeping is an evening activity, right?) I don’t know who started it, but whenever Yorkshire pudding was served, Aunt Cookie and my father threw squares of it at each other, aiming for the face. A direct hit meant at least a month of good luck. But even if it didn’t make its target, it was hilarious

The Russian-Jewish side of my family was full of food tics.

for toddlers, until they found out that throwing food, like voting,

(The Irish Catholic side was more interested in drinking.) On

is a privilege reserved for adults. Both Aunt Cookie and my dad,

New Year’s Eve, for a good luck reset, we ate pickled herring in

having eaten the single olive of mortality, are no longer around

cream sauce. I had to pay Aunt Cookie one cent for the Chinese

to explain this stuff, leaving adults like me to carry on traditions.

cooking cleaver she gave me as a wedding present, because a

Sure, they’re ridiculous, but I do it. I carry on.

knife must never be a gift. That would be wicked bad luck, as

I try to peel oranges so that the peel comes off in one long

they say in Maine, just like painting a boat blue, or, to get back to

strip, which I then throw on the floor, where the shape it assumes

food, bringing a banana on board a ship, let alone a whole cargo of

might…must!…correspond to the first letter of my true love’s

them, which pretty much guarantees a shipwreck or pirate attack.

name. (Don’t try this with a satsuma unless your true love’s name

My father—who lived on a boat, in case you need the continu-

begins with a comma.) And I cheat at turkey-wishbone pulling. I

ity spelled out—believed that good fortune should be celebrated

can’t say how, but I really need to win. It’s very important that I

with a New York strip steak cooked medium-rare, and that if you

get my wish, which I also can’t reveal. Usually it works, but just

failed to observe this custom, Dionysus would get mad and with-

to be safe, especially at this time of year, I make sure my diet

hold future hedonistic pleasure. Dad also believed in the inherent

contains adequate bacon, which adds crunchy richness to life, as

luck of the spring day upon which the Sabrett hot dog cart first

everyone knows. Or will, eventually.

appeared on the shoulder of the Sunrise Highway. And further,

Happy New Year!

that whoever finished their spring hot dog first should get a bite of everyone else’s. Bad luck for you if you didn’t feel like sharing. In his family, if you spilled salt, you threw a pinch over your left shoulder to keep away miscellaneous bad spirits. You never handed the salt to another person—within minutes, an argument




what I use and why

The Kindest Cut by K r i st i W i l l i s • P h oto g r ap h y by J e n n a N o e l


’m staring at a package containing my birthday present, puz-

might even say it is ugly—but the blade is as sharp as a sword and

zling over the cryptic note from my stepmother. “One of

the weight balances perfectly in your hand.

these is your gift; the other is just yours. You’ll know the

Every weekend, I watched my father take out his sharpening steel and hone the blade for the work ahead. He stood in the mid-

difference.” I rip open the box like an impatient six-year-old and find a

dle of our open kitchen following whatever football game or John

Laguna Gloria cookbook published the year I started school at

Wayne movie was on TV in the other room and patiently sharp-

the University of Texas. I’m overjoyed with this thoughtful gift

ened the knife. He’d wipe the blade clean, put away the sharpen-

that Barbara must have spent days looking for, but I’m curious

ing steel and get to work on the family’s meal. When the cooking

about the other item so I keep digging…and then I freeze.

was finished, he’d carefully clean the knife and put it away.

At the bottom of the box, wrapped in a towel, is my dad’s butch-

My dad had the knife as long as I can remember and when I

er’s knife and sharpening steel. I haven’t seen either in the 13 years

think about him in the kitchen, he has the knife close at hand. No

since he passed away, and a flood of emotion washes over me.

one else ever used the knife, and no one but him cleaned it—ever.

My dad owned the kitchen on the weekends. He had a standard

It was my dad’s knife.

menu with little variation, but he made each dish perfectly, so no

When my father passed away, I forgot about the knife. I as-

one cared. Saturday night was steak night: perfectly seasoned

sumed it was with my stepmother, packed away in the kitchen, but

medium-rare rib eye, baked potato and salad. Sunday morning

I never saw it. Now, the knife was in my hands. This simple thing

breakfast was eggs over easy, hash browns, bacon and crispy toast.

that my dad cherished was mine.

And, on Sunday night, we had barbecued chicken, corn on the cob and a vegetable. The meals were simple and perfect.

As I balanced the knife in my hands that day, I felt like I was holding hands with my dad again. He has always been with me in

As he cooked these dishes, he always had one tool at the ready:

the kitchen—first teaching me to cook and then patiently letting

a steel butcher’s knife. Not a gleaming, stainless-steel blade that

me experiment with fancy recipes I’d found. Now, he guides my

you might see in a Williams-Sonoma or Sur La Table catalog. No,

hand as I chop, dice and slice. He coaxes me to focus and take my

this knife was as practical as my father. He wanted quality materi-

time; he reminds me that the joy of being in the kitchen is in the

als that would last through the decades crafted by some nameless

sharing. I now care for that well-loved knife with the same attention my

artisan. And it has. The handle is weathered with a rivet missing, and

father gave it. It will hang in my kitchen until I am no longer able

the blade is discolored from years of carving roasts, chopping

to cook, and then it will pass to my niece or nephew, who can use

onions and butchering chickens. This knife is not stylish—some

it to share the love of food with their family.




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social COOKING


Photography by Shannon Kintner

by K r i st i W i l l i s

Hamazing! A Night with Prosciutto di Parma at Bread & Circus.


he fellowship that’s forged while sharing a meal is one of

that, so I decided to start a group.”

the most beloved perks of our food traditions, and perhaps

It didn’t take long for the group to grow to over 100 events, and

it’s this spirit of community gathering that’s the key ingre-

Rowntree realized that the model could work in other cities. He

dient behind the birth, proliferation and popularity of the supper

started groups for several American cities, including Austin, which

club. Even though these clubs are often members-only with limited

already has over 250 members who’ve hosted six dinners in just four

seating, enticements like themed meals, guest chefs and a variety of

months. Rowntree believes that what makes the supper clubs special

unique dining locations continue to lure enthusiastic participants

is bringing together people from different backgrounds who share

lucky enough to snag a coveted spot.

a common love of food. “Yes the food is important, but it’s not all

Hosted club dinners are thriving today, both through circles of

about the food,” he says. “I think you can have a really simple, nice,

friends and, more formally, through new-media public groups like

home-cooked meal and what is special is everyone coming around

those organized through Meetup. Former Londoner Marcus Rown-

the table.”

tree started the Secret Dining Hub group after watching culinary

The camaraderie and uniqueness of those shared meals has

firebrand Jamie Oliver attending secret, underground dinner parties

drawn Austin’s local chefs to become involved in supper clubs, as

on a TV show. “It looked like such an amazing thing,” says Rowntree.

well. Special event dinners hosted outside the walls of a restaurant’s

“But I couldn’t figure out where to find dinners like that in London,

familiar brick and mortar have become a popular way to enjoy a

or other people that would be interested in doing something like

fine meal from a sought-after chef in an exciting new atmosphere. EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM



Photography by Jenna Noel

(left) Dai Due at Outstanding in the Field at Johnson's Backyard Garden, September 29, 2009; (right) Event Manager Michelle Llaguno and Chef Liaison Brandon Byrd at Dinner Lab, November 1, 2013.




Stephen Shallcross, owner of 2 Dine 4 Catering, stumbled into his

it’s something different to see how it’s presented and be surprised

supper club over a decade ago after a pre-wedding tasting for a few

about how things come out.”

brides turned into a group dinner. “Everyone had so much fun, we

Culinary creativity is also the driving force behind Brenton



Schumacher and the team at Pink Avocado Catering’s Bread & Cir-


The Supper Friends dinners give Shallcross’s catering staff an op-

cus Supper Club—a monthly dinner that also includes an entertain-


portunity to experiment and work with guest chefs who bring fresh

ment element, which has ranged from movies to DJs to burlesque

perspectives and different techniques to the kitchen. “Every dinner

dancers. A recent circus-themed dinner included sword swallowers

is an experiment for us and for the guests,” says Shallcross. “It gives

and contortionists, while another focused on a viewing of the film

the diners an opportunity to meet new people and socialize in a way

Moonrise Kingdom and a campout-themed meal. “This is a way for

that we don’t do that often anymore. We encourage people to turn

our staff to really be able to flex their creativity,” says Schumacher.

off the cell phones and engage in easy table conversation. It doesn’t

“We try to create a whole experience…it’s almost like a dinner the-

always work, but most people have fun even if they were uncomfort-


knew that we should do it again, and Supper Friends was born.”

Other clubs like L’Oca d’Oro focus on music paired with food as

able when they arrived.” Dai Due Supper Club has hosted 150 dinners over the last seven

the inspiration. At their Dinners to Rock To series, held on Sunday

years. Chef Jesse Griffiths and team prepare unique menus of locally

nights at Franklin Barbecue, Chef Fiore Tedesco and General Man-

sourced produce and meats and serve it family style, often outside

ager Adam Orman dedicate the meal to a band, and each dish to one

at a local farm. “There is something special about every dinner,

album. Recent dinners included work by artists like David Bowie,

but I have a special place in my heart for Boggy Creek Farm,” says

Radiohead and Prince. What pairs with James Brown’s album Sex

Griffiths. “I cook every dinner with one person in mind, and at Boggy

Machine? Pickering oysters, bacon aioli and flying-fish roe, of course.

Creek, I cook for [owner] Carol Ann [Sayle]. She loves vegetables, so

For Nina Simone’s soulful Black Gold: risotto and charred cuttlefish

for her I make the vegetable dishes extra special.”

in its ink, fresh porcini, baby kale, golden beets and tomatoes.

Several of the dinners have showcased Griffiths’s philosophy of

Giving restaurant chefs a playground is at the core of what new-

making use of a whole animal when cooking. The Whole Hog Din-

comer Dinner Lab hopes to achieve. Founder Brian Bordainick

ner, for example, is presented after a full-day class in which partici-

wants chefs to use their dinners as a place to experiment in ways

pants learn how to break down, process and cook a whole hog. Din-

they may not be able to in their own restaurants. “We believe there

ner guests share dishes prepared by the class that are as likely to

is a disconnect between what chefs are preparing on a regular basis

include the pigs’ ears or tail as more familiar cuts like the chops or

and what they actually care about cooking,” says Bordainick. “We

ham. “I love the inventive focus on the local aspect,” says recent Dai

try to give talented chefs the opportunity to put forward food that

Due supper club guest Joe Ahlquist. “It’s one thing to see a menu, but

means something special to them.”





Everything In Balance. Drink Responsibly. © 2013 BONTERRA ORGANIC VINEYARDS, HOPLAND, CA.




When a chef has a well-reviewed meal, they might be invited back to do a dinner with more courses, or to cook in one of Dinner Lab’s other locations in New Orleans, Nashville, New York or Los Angeles. “For us, it’s not just about the food; it’s about the aspiration of the chef and what they can achieve,” says Bordainick. “We want to give them a stage to show off in their own city and around the country.” For Chef Bridget Weiss, a supper club was the perfect way to transport the experience of running her now-shuttered restaurant in Marfa after she’d moved back to Austin. Rather than investing in another physical restaurant, she reinvented Marfa Table to include personal chef and catering services as well as a supper club. And while catering is the bulk of her business, the supper club gives Weiss a way to meet new people and share with them in a more personal way than was possible when she was stuck in the kitchen. “People who attend a supper club are food-curious, social and engaging,” says Weiss. “We might have people from ages eighteen to eighty at a dinner, and at the end of the night, they are all swapping phone numbers. There is something magical about those dinners.” Whether sharing a meal in a friend’s home or under the stars at a chef-prepared dinner, supper clubs offer a respite from the daily hubbub of life—encouraging diners to slow down, connect and enjoy. Dai Due guests Susan and Jay Stein were drawn to a recent dinner because of the family-style nature, and were delighted to share their meal with three other couples who were previously strangers. “The food is wonderful and you can have a conversation with people you have very little in common with except that you all like food,”

SUPPER CLUBS IN AUSTIN Bread & Circus Supper Club Dai Due Supper Club Dinner Lab L’Oca D’Oro Marfa Table Secret Dining Hub Supper Friends For more listings, visit

says Susan. “It’s just the most pleasant evening possible.”

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John "Tony" Galindo, John Galindo, John's sister Jessica Galindo Winters with her husband Adam Winters and children Ava and Adam Winters.




cooking FRESH

The Galindo Family by Lay n e V i cto r i a Ly n c h • P h oto g rap h y by Kat e L eSu eu r V i n tag e p h oto g rap h s c o u rt esy o f t h e Ga l i n d o Fam i ly


hough there’s no evidence that proves cooking is a genetic

each to Tex-Mex restaurants around town) and dreaming up vari-

predisposition, the Galindo family would almost certainly

ous potential restaurant concepts. It was in this spirit that a young

make you believe otherwise. For over 70 years, the hard-

John spent his teenage years busing tables, taking catnaps atop

working clan has embraced all the madness and passion the inferno

stacks of white aprons between shifts and racing fellow line cooks

of the kitchen has to offer as waiters, busboys, line cooks and ex-

to see who could chop pico de gallo and guacamole fixings the fast-

ecutive chefs. “I honestly believe it’s something that’s embedded in

est. “I’m blessed to have all my fingers,” he jokes. “But truthfully, I

our DNA,” says John Galindo. “My family has always enjoyed being

look back on those days and realize a lot of memories were made

surrounded by food, working hard and cooking for people. We’ve

at those places.”

found a lot of passion and joy through those experiences.”

These days, John and his sister, father and cousin can be found

Through the various roots and branches of their close-knit fam-

at Mellizoz Tacos—the 42-foot Tex-Mex food trailer on South First

ily tree, the Galindos have witnessed the vast evolution of our lo-

Street. The black-and-blue mobile kitchen debuted in 2009, featur-

cal culinary scene—beginning first with John’s great-grandfather,

ing a menu of both classic and modern taco and torta interpre-

Cruz Galindo, who cooked at The Tavern, co-owned a burger stand

tations—including the Padre (braised carnita pork, soft avocado,

and the San Jacinto Cafe and co-opened the original Casa Loma

sweet pineapple and salsa fresca) and the ever-popular tempura-

in Austin with his son Tony, John's granddad. Tony also waited

battered Fried Avocado taco (avocado, arugula, tomato, chipotle-

tables along with John's grandmother, Mary Cortinas, at various

sherry vinaigrette and Cotija cheese). And while business is going

Austin restaurants including El Charro. And finally, John's father,

exceedingly well at the trailer, the family members will admit tran-

John "Tony" Galindo, reopened Casa Loma and founded the Cedar

sitioning to a brick-and-mortar restaurant isn’t something that’s far

Grove Steakhouse, both in Wimberley and both now shuttered.

from their minds. “We definitely have plans to open a restaurant

John is a proud member of the fourth restaurant generation along-

again one day,” Tony Galindo says. “But we see it like a bamboo

side his business partner and sister, Jessica Ann Winters, and chef-

tree: you spend five years nurturing it and it grows suddenly in

cousin, Joseph Galindo. And while these cooks have definitely paid

thirty days. You have to ask yourself, though, did that tree grow

their dues in places like Wink, North and Red House Pizzeria, they

over five years or was it something that happened in one month?

cannot escape the ever-profound sway of their culinary heritage.

Whenever we do open something, it’ll be the right time for us and

During John’s childhood, his grandmother’s kitchen served as

it’ll be because we put in the effort over the years.”

the epicenter and lifeblood of everything family. It was here where

In piecing together this family-inspired winter menu, John drew

members young and old convened to prepare daylong meals, and

upon both memory and professional experience—infusing small-

catch up on the intricacies and gossip of one another’s lives. On

but-meaningful modern touches into his family’s favorite recipes.

the weekends, the South Austin home would fill with the enticing aromas of homemade Texas pecan pralines, fried pumpkin empanadas, thick tamales made with boiled hog’s head meat, bubbly yellow-corn tortilla enchiladas and spicy-yet-simple chicken mole. “Yankee Candle had nothing on the smells that came out of that kitchen,” John Galindo says. “It’s one of those things you don’t realize will have such an impact on your life. Her kitchen influenced all of us in the food we prepare today, and there’s something to be said for that.” Over the years, the Galindo family has ritualistically honored their culinary lineage—waking early on mornings to mix masa, tender pork and savory beans and spread it into delicate husks on a six-foot table in the backyard; melting giant batches of nutty pralines onto wax paper (selling the resulting candies for five cents

Tamales de Puerco All recipes courtesy of John Galindo Makes 2 dozen I remember my grandma having a tamalada about a week after Thanksgiving—inviting her sister, a friend and my aunt over to help. A rearrangement of her dining room into a makeshift prep area and the kitchen was in full swing. Tejano music in the background and intense Spanish conversation and laughing about who knows what in the fore, they filled corn husks and counted how many dozens were made—it was quite the production. Grandma always bought a hog’s head for the tamales, but for this recipe, I’m using pork butt because it has a great ratio of fat to muscle. For the filling: 3 lb. pork butt 2 medium shallots, trimmed, peeled and cut into quarters 4 cloves garlic, peeled 3 dried ancho chilies, rehydrated with hot water 3 dried pasilla chilies, rehydrated with hot water 1½ t. toasted ground cumin 4½ t. kosher salt For the masa: ²/³ c. lard 4 c. masa harina 1 T. baking powder 1 T. salt 3 c. warm pork stock, reserved from filling recipe 24 corn husks, soaked in hot water until softened Lightly trim the pork butt if it hasn’t been done already, then cut it into 2- to 3-inch cubes. In a large pot, place the pork, shallots and garlic, cover with water and bring to a boil. Once boiling, reduce the heat to a simmer and skim the surface as needed. Cook for 2 hours, or until tender. In the meantime, puree the peppers with about 1½ cups of their soaking water. Take the pork out of the liquid and reserve the broth for making the masa. Shred the meat in a bowl and add the cooked shallots, garlic and the chili puree to it. Toss this mixture together and season with the toasted cumin and salt. In a stand mixer fitted with a paddle attachment, add the lard and cream it until it’s light and fluffy. In a separate bowl, mix the masa harina with the baking powder and salt, then gradually add the dry ingredients to the lard a little at a time. Add the stock—you want the masa to be pretty smooth and not too stiff so it can spread easily. Pat the corn husks dry and, using your hands, add 3 tablespoons of masa—about the size of a golf ball—to the center of the smooth, concave side of one of the corn husks with the tapered side facing away from you. Spread it out in the center of the husk leaving room at the top and bottom for folding. Place 2 tablespoons of the pork filling in the center of the masa then fold the sides of the masa around it so that the pork is completely covered. Fold the tapered end of the husk over, toward the bottom. Repeat with the remaining husks to make 24 tamales. Steam the tamales with the bottom of the husk facing down for about 45 minutes, or until the masa releases from the husk. Let rest for 10 to 15 minutes and enjoy!




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Caldo de Rez (Beef Soup) Serves 4 to 6

This is a great light-bodied soup, reminiscent of a pho with root vegetables. It opens you up, especially if it’s a little cold outside, and is best served with flame-toasted corn tortillas or some johnnycakes and butter. 3 lb. bone-in short ribs, cut into 3-in. cubes 2 T. salt 1 t. pepper 2 T. olive oil ½ small onion, cut into medium dice 2 cloves garlic, thinly sliced 5 c. warm beef stock, divided ¹/8 t. fresh thyme leaves 1 t. ground coriander ½ t. Mexican oregano 1 bay leaf 2 medium carrots, peeled and chopped 2 turnips, peeled and cut into wedge-like eighths 2 medium white potatoes, cut into eighths 2 T. chopped fresh cilantro 4 Roma tomatoes, peeled, seeded and diced ¼ medium head cabbage, cored and cut into wedges 2 ears corn, cleaned and cut into thirds Garnishes: Fresh cilantro leaves Fresh serrano peppers, thinly sliced Radishes, thinly sliced Onion, finely chopped Lime wedges Preheat a 6- to 8-quart Dutch oven or large pot over medium-high heat. Season the beef with the salt and pepper and brown thoroughly in the olive oil. Add the onion and garlic and cook until the onions sweat—about 5 minutes—then add 2 cups of the beef stock. Add the thyme, coriander, oregano and bay leaf. Let this simmer for 1 hour to break down the beef ribs a bit. Toss in the carrots, turnips and potatoes, give it a good stir, and add the remaining beef stock. Let this cook on medium for another 45 minutes. Finally, add the cilantro, tomatoes, cabbage and corn and let it cook for another 20 minutes. Serve in bowls with a garnish of a little cilantro, a touch of thinly sliced serrano peppers, shaved radish, finely chopped onions and a squeeze of lime juice.




Chicken and Mole Serves 6 to 7 Traditional moles can take hours to make. This recipe is a more simplified, modern take on the dish. 4 dried pasilla chilies 4 dried ancho chilies 1 whole chicken, cut into 8 pieces 3 c. chicken stock, divided 2 T. lard 1 c. blanched almonds 2 T. sesame seeds ¼ c. peanut butter 1 large onion, cut into small dice 2 cloves garlic, minced 1 flour tortilla, chopped and crumbled

¹/8 t. ground cloves ¹/8 t. cinnamon ½ t. ground coriander ¼ t. ground anise ½ c. raisins 3 small tomatoes, peeled, seeded and chopped 2 chipotles in adobo, seeded 3 T. vegetable oil 1 T. Nutella 1 T. kosher salt, plus more to taste

Soak the pasilla and ancho peppers in warm water for 30 to 60 minutes then remove the stems and seeds. Place the chicken pieces in a braiser and cover halfway with stock, using about 2 cups. Lightly salt the chicken pieces, cover the pot and cook on medium-high heat until the chicken is almost cooked through—about 20 minutes. Drain the stock and reserve it. Pat the chicken dry—taking off as much moisture as possible from the skin. Heat the lard in a sauté pan and brown the chicken pieces. Place the browned chicken back into the pot and keep warm, off of the heat. In a second sauté pan, toast the almonds and sesame seeds then combine in a blender or food processer with the peanut butter, onion, garlic, tortilla, spices, raisins, tomatoes and pasilla, ancho, and chipotle chilies, pulsing to a puree. Heat the vegetable oil in the same pan used to brown the chicken, then add the puree and cook over medium-high heat for about 5 minutes— stirring constantly. Add the reserved chicken stock, Nutella and salt and simmer until all the ingredients are well combined—about 5 minutes. Pour the sauce over the chicken pieces in the large pot, cover and cook at a simmer for another 45 minutes—stirring occasionally. A nice nappe consistency is desired (the sauce should coat the back of a spoon)—if the sauce is too thick, add a little water or canned stock.

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Pecan Pralines Makes about 1 dozen 2-ounce candies

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at Tex-Mex restaurants in Austin. I was taught how to make these by my grandmother; the sound of the hard tapping of a spoon on a counter was a clear sign of what was being made, if the aroma didn’t get to us first. This all comes together very quickly, but BE CAREFUL as this mixture, when hot, is like napalm, and unforgiv-


ing. We didn’t use candy thermometers when Grandmother made them—it was a sight, smell and hearing technique—although I do recommend using one, preferably an infrared thermometer. SOUTHERN FLYER at the Brenham Airport Our Food Soars!









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1½ c. sugar ½ c. brown sugar ½ c. milk 1½ c. toasted pecan halves 2 T. butter 1 t. vanilla extract Dash of salt Grease a cleaned countertop or cookie sheet. In a large saucepan over medium-high heat, combine the sugar, brown sugar and milk. Bring to a boil and add the pecans, butter, vanilla and salt. Heat to 245°. Quickly and carefully drop small spoonfuls onto the prepared area and let cool completely.

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COOKS at home

Suzanna Choffel by C l a i r e C e l l a • p h oto g r ap h y by Kat e L eSu eu r


n a city that lays claim to having it all, Suzanna Choffel has

home for the breakfast hour, or, she says with a laugh, at least

discovered something it doesn’t have.

awake for the brunch hour—which makes breakfast tacos ideal. Her hectic lifestyle warrants the need for such fast and effortless

Breakfast tacos.

Good ones—like the ones she unknowingly took for granted in

meals, and she’s perfectly okay with that. “I ate a lot of cereal this summer,” she confesses unabashedly,

her hometown of Austin. Although New York City—where the 33-year-old musician

and says that even when she was younger, she remembers always

has lived for two years—may have unparalleled bagels and pizza,

being too busy and too energetic to cook (by the age of 14, she was

Choffel says it lacks the fresh-off-the-skillet flour tortillas and

already a budding local star).

chunky homemade salsa Austin has on almost every street corner.

“I have two sisters,” she says. “And out of the three of us, I

These two ingredients are essential to a hearty and tasty break-

was the one who cooked the least. I was that crazy-busy kid; I

fast taco, Choffel says. And unfortunately, they’re nearly impos-

just showed up for meals and ate them. I got a little more curious

sible to find in the Big Apple.

about cooking in college when I lived on my own, and realized:

That’s why when this Austin native gets homesick, she can be

okay, I have to cook now.”

found in her cramped city kitchen, preparing her taco fix. Nothing

Although cooking isn’t a task Choffel presently devotes a great

elaborate, nothing gourmet, though—she’s an acclaimed musician

deal of time to—she’s in the kitchen about three or four times

with a full and often fluctuating schedule, after all. Choffel is also

a week—she admits that cooking can be a creative process, and

a woman who knows what she likes and isn’t afraid to admit it,

she’s learned to approach it in the same way she intuitively ap-

even if it is just a humble combination of scrambled eggs, fried

proaches music: with resourcefulness and imagination.

potatoes, sprinkles of cheese and sliced avocado, all folded into flour tortillas and drizzled with salsa.

“A little bit of a lot of things,” she says of her techniques. “My cooking style is very laid-back. I don’t follow recipes; I interpret

This consoling ritual is usually reserved for special lazy week-

them. I do that with my music, too. I don’t like to stick to rules or

end afternoons twice a month, because during the week and

forms. I take liberty with melodies and rhythms. Up on stage, I’m

most weekends, Choffel’s days are packed like the cars stuck in

very easygoing, I like to think, and I’m very similar in the kitchen:

the morning commute just outside her window. She and her boy-

free-spirited, interpretive, laid-back.”

friend, Paul Oveisi, are rarely around for dinner, she says, and

This energy, eccentricity and candor are absolutely evident

that’s usually a meal that she can eat on the go. But she’s typically

in Choffel’s music—it’s like she’s opened a cabinet stocked with her musical talents, interests and genres and, similar to her cooking technique, picked an assortment of things she knew she liked, shook them together and created a savory, soulful sound. She’s been experimenting musically since her early years on the stages of the Saxon Pub, the Broken Spoke and the Continental Club, tapping into a range of genres from R & B and soul to folk, jazz and hip-hop. Her three records have followed her curious and creative flair, though none of them sound quite like the others. For her upcoming album, which she hopes to release within the next year, she says she wants to come back to her roots. Although perhaps not physically, quite yet. “I’m happy where I’m at,” she says of her career and New York, but she plans to continue visiting and playing in Austin. Even if only to smuggle a bag of still-warm flour tortillas and a jar of D.L. Jardine’s Habanero Salsa into her suitcase for the flight back East. Something she’s been known to do.




Suzanna’s Homesick Breakfast Tacos Makes 6 3 T. olive oil, divided 6 cloves garlic, chopped 1 small yellow onion, sliced 6–7 new or small russet potatoes, unpeeled and sliced 1 t. cayenne (paprika can be substituted to eliminate spice) 1 t. dried oregano 1 t. sea salt 1 t. black pepper 6 eggs 8 oz. shredded Colby-jack cheese (or any cheese you prefer) 6 fresh flour tortillas 1 small avocado, sliced Salsa of choice (see for Suzanna’s Homesick Salsa recipe)

In a skillet or frying pan, heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil and the garlic and onion over medium-low heat until the garlic and onion are slightly browned. Add the potatoes and the remaining olive oil and cook over medium heat—flipping and stirring occasionally. While the potatoes cook, season them with the cayenne, oregano, salt and black pepper. Cover and cook for 25 to 30 minutes, or until the potatoes are tender in the middle (check with fork prongs). Reduce the heat to low. Meanwhile, whisk the eggs in a bowl and add a pinch of salt and pepper, to taste. After the potatoes are cooked, pour in the egg mixture—stirring until the eggs are light and fluffy. When the eggs are almost finished cooking, sprinkle in the shredded cheese. Remove from the heat and keep warm. Heat the flour tortillas on a low, open flame or stove burner for 5 to 10 seconds on each side. Fill the warmed tortillas with an equal mixture of eggs and potato—adding more cheese if desired. Top with avocado slices and, of course, plenty of salsa. Serve warm. EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM



The SHRUB by Kate Payne Photography by Jo Ann Santangelo


t’s not news that pickled fruits make great snacks. But it turns out that the leftover syrup in the jar makes a fabulous beverage, for both the saucy and the chaste. After Portlandia’s “I-can-pickle-

that” spirit has its way with the pantry, enter phase two: the shrub. A shrub, the kind you drink, not trim, is made from a fruit-infused vinegar syrup that’s sweetened and diluted with club soda or still water. The word “shrub” is derived from the Arabic verb shariba, which means “to drink or sip,” and thanks to an Arabic-speaking friend weighing in on the matter, I learned that the noun form of the word—pronounced sharAAB—translates to “drink,” “wine,” “fruit juice” or “fruit syrup,” depending on the context. The pre18th-century English shrubs as beverages were more like ultra-concentrated boozy cordials, and their predecessors, medicinal extracts, were made without any vinegar at all. Alcohol and sugar in large

egary syrup excess would be a possibility. I can the jars of syrup

quantities—think rumtopf or bachelor’s jam—were the preservative

alongside the jars of fruit pickles.

factors signature to these premade punch starters or flavor boost-

There’s no one right way to make a shrub. Use plain and simple

ers typically used to jazz up barrels of distilled alcohol tainted by

white vinegar as a solid base for developing other flavors, or try

seawater. As delicious as this may sound, I think the 18th-century

apple cider vinegar, red or white wine vinegar or Champagne vin-

Americans had it right when they decided to pour vinegar over fruit

egar. To any of the above vinegars as a base, add a splash of bal-

and let its solvent nature extract summer’s fleeting flavors.

samic vinegar to further develop the shrub’s complexity, or add

The American incarnation of shrubs evolved from our agrarian past, small-scale, regional sustenance farming and the lack of

fresh ginger, herbs and various spices to vinegar or syrup infusions to layer the flavors.

refrigeration technology. Family farms had fruit trees and berry

Beyond the limitless flavor possibilities, the business of shrub

bushes and needed a way to preserve spring and summer without

making may be accomplished in a number of ways. The easiest

freezers and refrigerators. Beyond the volume of fruit going into

method by far is to use leftover syrup from a jar of pickled fruit.

wines, meads and ciders, harvested fruit was either covered with

When no fruit pickles are available, the magic formula to remem-

sugar, left to macerate for a day or two and then doused in vinegar

ber is 1:1:1, or one part each fruit, vinegar and sugar or syrup. My

or vice versa: covered in vinegar for a few days then cooked with

preferred method is a cold infusion, but others may choose to

sugar into a syrup. The fruit was strained out and this shelf-stable

heat the fruit in the vinegar to kick off the infusion differently. Al-

concoction was kept in reserve for flavoring water, possibly mak-

ternative sugars are fine, but eliminating one of the preservative

ing it safer to drink by way of the vinegar content.

aspects (sugar) from the mix might decrease the shelf life of the

The earliest colonial recipes involved raspberries, an abundance “dilemma” we don’t face in Central Texas, but shrubs come

shrub concentrate. Check the concentrate before use to ensure there are no signs of bubbling or mold.

in all fruit shapes and sizes. I began my shrub-making days with

One exception to the master ratio above is a shrub that happens

the overage from my cautious fruit-pickling endeavors. It’s shat-

often around this house. I use our home-fermented fruit-scrap vin-

tering to go through a canning recipe meticulously and discover a

egars, add a bit of honey or agave directly to the vinegar and top

brine deficiency when it comes time to fill the jars. After one such

it off with fizzy water. A raw, live-cultured shrub! (Learn to make

disaster, I made a point to always increase the brine volume when

apple cider vinegar in the Fall 2012 issue; use other kinds of fruit

canning fruit pickles knowing—or hoping, really—that fruity, vin-

scraps to personalize drinking vinegars via that method.)




Seasonal Shrub Makes 3 cups 2 c. any seasonal fruit 2 c. white vinegar 2 c. sugar 2 c. water Wash a quart-size mason jar with hot, soapy water but do not dry. Chop the fruit into roughly 1-inch cubes and drop them directly into the jar. Add the vinegar, cap the jar and allow the fruit to infuse the vinegar for 1 to 3 days. Strain the fruit from the vinegar and use the fruit as the base of a chutney or savory sauce. Wash the jar with hot, soapy water again and do not dry. Make a simple syrup by combining the sugar and water, and add it and the strained vinegar to the jar. Store the shrub concentrate in the refrigerator, where it will keep for up to six months. To make drinks, add 1 to 3 tablespoons of shrub concentrate to an 8- to 12-ounce glass of sparkling water. Garnish with pickled fruit.

Meyer Lemon Spice Syrup Makes 1 pint 4 large or 5 medium Meyer lemons 1 c. sugar ¼ c. water 6 allspice berries, roughly crushed Zest one of the lemons before juicing it and reserve zest in a small bowl. Juice all of the lemons and strain the pulp from the juice. Measure the volume, adding more juice, if needed, to reach 1 cup. In a small saucepan, dissolve the sugar in the water over low heat. Bring to a boil until the bubbles are about the size of a dime (5 to 10 minutes) then remove from the heat. Add the Meyer lemon juice to the sugar syrup and bring it back to a boil. Remove from the heat, decant into a just-washed pint jar and let cool.

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Once the jar has cooled considerably, add the zest and allspice directly to the syrup. Cap the jar and allow it to infuse in the fridge overnight or for up to 3 days. Strain the syrup and store in the refrigerator for up to 6 months. Enjoy in a soda, cocktail or add to an infused vinegar to make a shrub concentrate!

Grapefruit Shrub Syrup Makes 1¼ cups Winter in Texas presents an interesting shrub opportunity for the citrus bounty.

“Best place to cure what ails you”

1 organic grapefruit 1 c. white vinegar 1 c. sugar Wash one pint jar and lid with hot, soapy water but do not dry. Peel the grapefruit rind in strips, using a vegetable peeler, and pack the strips into the jar. Pour the vinegar over the rind strips and allow to infuse at room temperature for 24 hours. Strain the vinegar and combine with the sugar in a small saucepan. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for 5 minutes. Return the syrup to a freshly washed and un-dried pint jar. Allow the liquid to cool to room temperature, then refrigerate for up to 6 months.

Great Gift Ideas for the Holidays! Let us help you explore our “Oasis of Earthly Delights,” featuring a comprehensive assortment of tinctures, teas, soaps, essential oils, gifts, books and much more! Store hours: Monday–Saturday 10–6:30 or visit us online. 200 W. Mary St. 512.444.6251 EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM



La Casita de Buen Sabor

Grandma’s Piccalilli


hroughout my child-

son jars boiled and something

hood, I spent every

sweet and spicy simmered on

Tuesday night with my

the stove. It was piccalilli, and

grandmother in her enchant-

even the name of it delighted

ing El Paso home. It was like

me. Grandma was putting up

a vacation to a faraway land.

her highly sought-after spe-

Her pink pueblo-style home

cialty that she would give

had a dramatic three-story-

away as Christmas gifts. She

high stained glass window

let me taste a spoonful and

depicting a yucca shooting

the sweet, savory and piquant

its flower stalk into the sky

flavors danced in my mouth.


She explained that piccalilli—



Dark wooded floors, Navajo rugs, ornately carved furniture and

a favorite condiment in mid-18th century England—is a slightly

a staircase with a wrought-iron railing offset the stucco walls

sweet and savory relish comprised of onions, tomatoes, peppers,

adorned with paintings by Santa Fe masters. And collections

vinegar, sugar and spice, and is sometimes referred to as “Indian

of handblown Mexican glass, worldly treasures and volumes of

pickle.” Of course, she added her own touches: strips of fire-roast-

books from every genre lined shelves in the rooms.

ed New Mexico green chiles, cinnamon, allspice and brown sugar.

But it was the kitchen that especially captivated me. Its Saltillo

Throughout the winter, Grandma’s piccalilli enlivened many of

floor tiles were burnished from wear, and the countertop was laid

our meals—especially roasted pork, chicken and turkey, or cheese

with a vivid pattern of cobalt and orange Talavera tiles. An open

toasts and scrambled eggs.

shelf showcased Mexican earthenware pottery like cazuelas (cas-

I love making this recipe on a chilly winter’s eve, and I’ve dis-

serole dishes), a bean pot and even a pot shaped like a fat chicken.

covered even more ways to serve it, like mounding it atop a sa-

Grandma’s kitchen was such a departure from the Formica, lino-

vory, sharp Cheddar cheese ball, mixing it into chile con queso,

leum and lace found in many kitchens of that era.

adding it to a sauté of eggplant, okra or squash or as a topping for

We often ate in what Grandma called the “taproom” (or

roasted potatoes or butternut squash. Sometimes I add a dollop

cantina)—a small room nestled off of the kitchen where a cuckoo

to beef or hearty winter stews, or use it as a delicious sauce for

clock reminded us what time to gather around the polished cop-

spaghetti or pappardelle or as the best hamburger relish ever! But

per-topped table with wooden legs carved with flowers. There,

I think one of my favorite uses for piccalilli is to add it to freshly

Grandma introduced me to foods not often served in El Paso; my

cooked black-eyed peas for a New Year’s Eve feast.

favorite was the artichoke we often shared—plucking off each leaf

Sometimes it’s hard for me to conjure up memories from long

to reveal that glorious heart and dipping chunks of it in drawn

ago. However, the taste of a recipe lovingly passed down easily

butter. We watched a cheese soufflé magically poof, and spooned

takes me back to childhood. I want to be in Grandma’s kitchen

a bright green sauce of fresh mint, sugar and vinegar over leg of

again, at that copper table, to thank her for inspiring my own

lamb. Comfort foods come to mind like chipped beef on toast,

eclectic home, recipes and lifestyle. Today, my casita is filled with

meatloaf smothered in a thick and tangy tomato sauce and cloud-

many keepsakes from her beloved home. I offer this heirloom

like angel food cake mounded with strawberries. Some nights, the

recipe with the wish that you, too, will reminisce and bring to life

pungent scent of enchilada sauce, or the earthy smell of frijoles

happy memories from your past. Grandma would be pleased that

simmering on the stove, filled the kitchen.

I am sharing her piccalilli with you. It’s a recipe guaranteed to

One Tuesday in the fall, I stepped into her steamy kitchen as ma70



bring good fortune and good cheer to the season.

Photography by Kristina Wolter

by Lucinda Hutson

Grandma’s Piccalilli

weekly, local prix-fixe menu • family owned

Makes 5 to 6 cups ½ t. whole allspice ½ t. whole black peppercorns 4 whole cloves 1–2 dried red chiles de arbol or cayenne peppers 3 T. olive oil 1 large white onion, chopped 4 cloves garlic, minced 2 red bell peppers, chopped 6 medium tomatoes, chopped (about 4 c.) ½ t. ground cinnamon 3 T. cider or red wine vinegar (or more to taste) 2 t. brown sugar (or more to taste) ½ t. salt 4–6 green Anaheim or Hatch chiles, roasted, peeled, seeded and cut into rajas, or strips 3 T. tequila reposado or smoky mezcal (optional)

1807 South First Street 512-215-9778

In a spice grinder, grind the allspice, black pepper, cloves and dried chiles and set aside. Heat the olive oil in a large pan. Cook the onions until translucent, then add the garlic and bell peppers and toss briefly. Add the tomatoes and simmer to reduce the liquid slightly. Add the cinnamon, the spices from the grinder, and the vinegar, brown sugar and salt. Simmer for about 25 minutes to desired thickness then add the roasted chiles and the tequila or mezcal, if using, and cook for an additional 10 minutes. Taste to achieve the perfect balance of sweet, spicy, tangy and piquant—adding more vinegar, brown sugar and salt, if needed. Keep refrigerated for several days.

Black-Eyed Peas with Grandma’s Piccalilli

Locally owned wine shop offering affordable wines for home, special events or to enjoy on our patio!

Serves 8 2 lbs. fresh black-eyed peas ½ lb. smoky peppered bacon or 2 meaty ham bones 1 onion, quartered and each quarter studded with 1 clove 2 bay leaves Small handful freshly snipped oregano and/or savory or thyme Salt, to taste 3 T. tequila reposado or smoky mezcal (optional) Grandma’s Piccalilli (recipe above) Chopped green onions, as garnish Chopped fresh jalapeños, as garnish

1209 Rosewood Avenue, Austin, TX 78702 512-904-9056 |


Place the black-eyed peas, bacon, onion, bay leaves, oregano and salt in a heavy pot and add water to cover. Bring to a boil, then simmer for about 25 minutes—adding the tequila or mezcal toward the end of cooking. Let the peas cool in the broth, then drain and reserve the broth. Cut the meat into bits, discard the fat and return to the peas. Pour enough of the piccalilli (most of it) over the black-eyed peas and simmer for about 12 minutes—adding a small amount of reserved broth, if needed. Serve in warm bowls accompanied by corn bread, and top the peas with the chopped green onions and peppers, if desired.




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edible GARDENS

Heritage Grains by Lau ra M cK i ssac k


eritage grains are those that have remained much the

heritage grains are packed with flavor and nutrition and bring a

same, genetically speaking, as when early European, An-

great diversity of taste and texture to the palate. Cooked, they

dean and Aztec farmers tilled their fields, and they’ve

are excellent in salads, casseroles and breads and are a nutritious

played a huge role in supporting ancient societies. Quinoa, for

alternative to oatmeal.

example, has sustained the people of the Andes for thousands

In Central Texas, one of the easiest of these grains to grow is

of years, and amaranth—revered as a holy plant and an essential

amaranth, and there are several varieties to choose from. Some,

source of nutrition by the ancient Aztecs—was once banned by

like Green Callaloo or Joseph’s Coat (a favorite of Thomas Jef-

Spanish conquistadores who believed its great importance to the

ferson), are best grown for their leaves and provide a nutritious

people to be idolatrous.

addition to summer salads. The larger, tougher leaves are deli-

These grains are gaining popularity as substitutes for much

cious tossed in olive oil and grilled in a grill basket. Others, such

of the wheat and other grains that have been modified to pro-

as Burgundy or Golden Giant amaranth, can be grown for their

vide the highest yields and fewest diseases possible—sometimes

seed and make gorgeous, striking centerpieces as they can grow

at the expense of flavor and nutrition. Also, many heritage grains

to over eight feet tall with brilliant golden and burgundy plumes

are important to those intolerant to gluten, found in wheat pro-

that stay lush and keep their color well into late summer. In the

tein. But aside from being great alternatives to wheat products,

garden or landscape, amaranth enjoys full sun, is very heat-hardy





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and can be planted directly in the ground about a quarter-inch

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deep after the last threat of frost. It’s usually among the first things to sprout up—roughly three to ten days to germination. Amaranth seed can be harvested once the seed heads have matured and are beginning to lose their color. Test readiness by plucking one frond and rubbing it between your palms over a plate. If the seeds fall out easily and have a bit of a crunch to them, they are ready. To harvest the rest, you’ll need a bowl or

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bag to catch the seeds in as they’re worked out, and some sort of

and work them between your hands over the strainer until most

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strainer set over it to catch the larger chaff and stems while letting the seeds fall through. Pluck the fronds from the main stem of the seeds have fallen out. What will be left is a quantity of small chaff and seeds. The chaff of amaranth is heavier than that

Food | Music | Art

It’s more than a market.

of wheat and other grains, and the seed lighter, so winnowing must be done carefully. One method is to place a handful of seed at a time on a plate and blow gently while rolling the seeds toward you. (The chaff is edible, so no need to worry about getting every last bit.) The yield varies based on the varietal as well as the growing conditions. There are, of course, heritage wheats, millets and barleys, as well, and several of our local growers and artisans are making good use of them. Chip McElroy at Live Oak Brewing Company is the

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only brewmaster in Texas who uses heritage wheat and other grains

Larry Butler of Boggy Creek Farm also grows heritage wheat, and is

Comal & East 5th Street

in his brewing process—lending a malty sweetness to the beers. trying a new variety called Sonora this year that was handed down by a friend. And several Central Texas farms, including Richardson Farms and Bar W Farm and Ranch, are growing unadulterated wheat and other grains, and are making their flours available at many of our local farmers markets and area restaurants. There are many reasons to explore heritage grains. Not only are they easy on the digestive system and highly flavorful and nutritious, but they are incredibly versatile in cooking and even easy to grow. Consider delving into the rich history of these seeds of the past, and try a few in the garden this spring.

Resources Baker Creek Heirloom Seed Co. 2278 Baker Creek Road Mansfield, MO 65704 Phone: 417-924-8917

Old-school baking with a twist! We use local ingredients and no corn syrup! Special Orders Available!

Come see our Treat Truck parked at Native South, 10106 S. Manchaca! Follow us on Facebook for hours and menu. Lots of sweet treats!!

512-417-9847 • • follow us @pmstreats 74



Bar W Farm and Ranch Route 1, Box 273 Mullin 325-985-3557 Boggy Creek Farm 3414 Lyons Road 512-926-4650

Coyote Creek Organic Farm and Feed Mill 13817 Klaus Lane, Elgin 512-285-2556 Richardson Farms 2850 County Road 412 Rockdale 512-635-3691 Seeds of Change P.O. Box 4908 Rancho Dominguez, CA 90220 888-762-7333

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Where dinner can be the best part of the celebration.

Team-building exercises, hands-on cooking lessons and fully

catered events for food enthusiasts utilizing the school’s 9,000 square foot garden, commercial kitchens, and dining room.

For more information contact: Special Events Manager, Nancy Marr 512-451-5743 / nmarr @ 6020-B Dillard Circle Austin, Texas 78752 /

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Green Corn Project

Garden Legacy by David Huebel

agencies and several nonprofit organizations including the Sustainable Food Center, the Austin Project and Austin Interfaith, alongside community food partners like Urban Roots, Urban Patchwork Neighborhood Farms and GCP that are working together to bring better nutrition and healthier lifestyles to Dove Springs. When Abby Ames, the associate director of College Completion and AmeriCorps for Breakthrough Austin, contacted GCP to see if we had a project for a team of high-school seniors, we thought building a


n a hot, dry day last August, I had the pleasure of working with a

garden for Alcauter might be the perfect experience. When I arrived

team of 11 Green Corn Project (GCP) volunteers to install a gar-

at her home the morning of the dig-in, one of the students, Marquise

den for Alba Alcauter in the southeast Austin neighborhood of Dove

Stampley, also a resident of Dove Springs, was already enjoying a cup

Springs. The volunteers were eight high-school seniors and three staff

of coffee with Alcauter and a neighbor. “I had never met Alba before,

members from Breakthrough Austin, a nonprofit organization found-

but she welcomed me into her home,” says Stampley. When the rest

ed in 2001 to build pathways to college for low-income students who

of the team arrived, we headed to the backyard where I had staked

would be first-generation college graduates.

the four-by-twelve-foot area for the garden bed. Despite the August

Alcauter grew up on a farm in Michoacán, Mexico, in a house built by her father that had two-foot-thick adobe walls made from local clay.

heat and the rather limited gardening experience of the volunteers, the crew eagerly went to work digging in the garden.

She says it was always comfortable inside, no matter how hot or cold

When I visited Alcauter’s garden a couple of weeks later, it was

it was outside. She has fond memories of working and playing on the

thriving. The basil—her favorite herb—was tall, and the seeds for

farm with her 13 brothers and sisters among the cows, horses, chickens,

squash, green beans and cucumbers had sprouted. The tomato plant

turkeys, vegetables and fruit trees, and she cries when she talks about

was dark green and healthy. Alcauter says she’s ready for more beds so

her mother, who passed away two years ago. “I learned so much from

that she can grow lots of onions and garlic—two staples in her kitchen.

her about how to eat the right foods to stay healthy,” she says. After high school, Alcauter moved to California, and later to Austin, where she’s currently raising her son and daughter and trying to

Hopefully this will be the first of many gardens in Dove Springs, and once the Breakthrough Austin students graduate from college, they’ll remember the experience and plant gardens of their own.

feed them as her mother taught her. She’s active in Go Austin/Vamos

For more information, visit and

Austin (GAVA)—a coalition of Dove Springs residents, City of Austin




THE Directory ARTISANAL FOODS Antonelli’s Cheese Shop We love cut-to-order artisanal cheese and all that goes with it. Order a picnic platter, take a class, or host a private guided event. Free tastings daily. 512-531-9610; 4220 Duval St.

Broken Arrow Ranch We field harvest truly wild animals for high-quality free-range venison, antelope and wild boar meat. Diamond H Ranch Quail from Bandera also available. 830-367-5875 3296 Junction Hwy., Ingram

Texas Hill Country Olive Company The Texas Hill Country Olive Company is a family-owned business committed to supplying the highest quality olive oil produced in the United States. 512-607-6512 2530 W. Fitzhugh Rd., Dripping Springs

Texas Olive Ranch Fresh Texas-grown extra virgin olive oil from Carrizo Springs, infused olive oil & balsamic vinegar at farmers markets in Austin, SA, NB, Houston, Dallas. 877-461-4708


Dishalicious creates custom food programs for all types of businesses. 512-827-7126;

VOM FASS is the premier specialty retailer of the world’s finest gourmet oils, vinegars, spirits, liqueurs and wines. 512-637-9545; 3663 Bee Cave Rd.

Fischer & Wieser Specialty Foods, Inc.



From the farm to your family table, we have been creating exciting, delicious and award-winning gourmet products for over 40 years in Fredericksburg! 830-997-8969 1406 S. US Hwy. 87, Fredericksburg 830-990-8490 315 E. Main St., Fredericksburg 800-369-9257 411 S. Lincoln St., Fredericksburg

Lick Honest Ice Creams Artisan ice creams celebrating the finest ingredients Texas has to offer! Handmade in small batches in our shop, locally sourced and seasonally inspired. 512-363-5622; 2032 S. Lamar Blvd.

Lone Star Foodservice Lone Star Foodservice is a family-owned wholesale meat company, whose mission is to source and deliver the finest cuts of natural beef, pork and lamb to tables across Texas. 512-646-6218; 1403 E. 6th St.

Noble Pig Sandwiches

Better Bites Bakery We are a gluten-free certified/vegan bakery specializing in delightful treats with special dietary needs, and high food standards, in mind. 512-350-2271 11190 Circle Dr., Ste. 350

Blue Note Bakery Blue Note Bakery is Austin’s premier custom cake shop, meticulously creating one-of-a-kind desserts for your special occasion. 512-797-7367 4201 S. Congress Ave., Ste. 101


Wedding Oak Winery

This certified organic winery in Mendocino County, California, produces world-class wines, including sauvignon blanc, chardonnay and cabernet sauvignon.

Located in the northern Hill Country, Wedding Oak Winery creates Texas wines from 100% Texas-grown warm weather varietals. Our Texas roots run deep! 325-372-4050 316 E. Wallace, San Saba

Brooklyn Brewery Leading the world in beers made in Brooklyn. 718-486-7422

Cuvée Coffee Cuvée is a specialty coffee roaster nestled in the Texas Hill Country. All coffee is directly sourced & roasted to order. 512-264-1479

East End Wines Locally owned wine shop offering affordable wines for home, special events, or enjoying on our patio! 512-904-9056; 1209 Rosewood Ave.

Hilmy Cellars Vineyards, winery & tasting room. 830-644-2482 12346 E. US Hwy. 290, Fredericksburg

Texas best selling premium winery. 806-634-3854

Paula’s Texas Spirits Paula’s Texas Orange Liqueur and Paula’s Texas Lemon Liqueur—all natural and handmade in Austin since 2006. Available throughout Texas.

Spec’s Wine, Spirits and Finer Foods

Beverages 4.0 Cellars

Texas Coffee Traders

Old school baking with a twist. We use as much local produce as possible. We do small batch baking to keep the integrity of the product. 512-417-9847;

BookPeople Texas’ leading independent bookstore since 1970. Located in the heart of downtown, BookPeople has been voted best bookstore in Austin for over 15 years! 512-472-5050 603 N. Lamar Blvd.

University of Texas Press Our mission is to advance and disseminate knowledge through the publication of books and journals and through electronic media. 512-252-3206

Catering and Meal Delivery Pink Avocado Catering

Llano Estacado Winery

Family-owned since 1962, Spec’s offers expert service and Texas’s largest selection of wines, spirits and beers along with gourmet foods and more! 512-366-8260; 4978 W. US Hwy. 290 512-342-6893; 10515 N. MoPac Hwy. 512-280-7400; 9900 S. I-35 512-263-9981; 13015 Shops Pkwy. 512-366-8300; 5775 Airport Blvd.

Princess & Moose’s Sister Bakery


A custom catering company specializing in tailored menus, incredible food & surprisingly personal service. 512-656-4348 401 Sabine St. Ste. B

Spoon & Co. Catering It’s our business to delight you with the details, memorable events with mindfully chosen, prepared and presented food and a caring crew! 512-912-6784

Design And Construction Parrish & Company

East Austin’s artisanal coffee roaster and one-stop shop offering a wide selection of certified organic and Fair Trade options for wholesale and retail. 512-476-2279; 1400 E. 4th St.

For over 40 years, Parrish & Company has served Texas as a leading distributor of fine home products. Family owned and operated. 512-835-0937 3600 E. Old Settlers, Round Rock 830-980-9595 26995 Hwy. 281 N., San Antonio 210-255-1125 2500 N. Main Ave., San Antonio 956-797-9555 400 E. Expy. 83, La Feria/Corpus

The Austin Wine Merchant

Tito’s Handmade Vodka

Texas Oven Co.

Locally owned and operated since 1991. Courteous and professional services. Careful selection. Competitive pricing. Gift wrap. Delivery within Austin. 512-499-0512; 512 W. 6th St.

Tito’s Handmade Vodka is handcrafted from 100% corn & distilled 6 times by Tito Beveridge in Austin, TX at America’s original microdistillery. Gluten-free! 512-389-9011

Experts in designing and building woodburning ovens. Our handcrafted ovens are fire-breathing works of art. We are also a Forno Bravo pizza oven dealer. 512-222-6836

Local sandwich shop featuring house cured meats, made from scratch breads, condiments and pickles. 512-382-6248; 11815 620 N., Ste. 4

4.0 Cellars is a tasting room and event venue serving the wines of Brennan Vineyards, Lost Oak Winery and McPherson Cellars. 830-997-7470; 10354 E. US Hwy. 290

Spiral Horn Apiary Where millions of honey bees call home. The finest raw, unfiltered honey, handcrafted all-natural soap, body lotions and hand cream. Tours available. 325-792-6818; 8247 FM 502, Rochelle


2013 HEIRLOOM 2013

77 77

edible Marketplace 2804 HWY 21 E Bastrop TX

(Across from the State Park)

Sun-Thur: 10:30 a.m. - 9:00 p.m. Fri & Sat: 10:30 a.m. - 10:00 p.m.

Madagascar Black Pepper Gourmet Sea Salts Culinary Herbs and Spices Wholesale and Retail

Private Party Catering! Jalapeno Cream Cheese Burger

One of Texas Monthly’s Best in Texas! • 830-864-5060

Fresh Organic Menu Local Brews on Tap


AUSTIN ALE HOUSE Happy Hour 4-7 Mon. 11 am-5 pm Tues.-Sat. 11 am-2 am • 512-963-5357

as french bread te x



supporting local food with FARM TO TABLE DINNERS TUES. THROUGH SAT.

2900 rio grande . 512-499-0544




301 W. 6th Street

Beesstt ’sB Woorlrldd’s W Falafel


4601 N. Lamar Blvd. Austin, TX 78751 TEL. 512.323.2259 World’s Best Falafel

A Day On The River Is Worth A Month In Town

Cabins ~ RV Spaces ~ Gift Shop 830-833-5115

We make our wine from TEXAS fruit.

handcrafted honeywines 1 mile east of Johnson City 830-868-2321 Tasting room open daily!




Wimberley Glassworks See things in a different light! Wimberley Glassworks creates and designs beautiful custom handblown glass lighting and art, in our Texas studio since ‘92. 800-929-6686; 6469 RR 12, San Marcos

Education Auguste Escoffier School of Culinary Arts The Auguste Escoffier School of Culinary Arts is teaching the next generation of chefs and pastry chefs the importance of sustainable and ethical choices. 512-451-5743; 6020-B Dillard Cir.

The Natural Epicurean The place to go for a plant-based, comprehensive professional services training, plus public events and classes. Learn here— change your kitchen; change your life. 512-476-2276; 1700 S. Lamar Blvd.

Events Cedar Street Courtyard 300-plus bottles of spirits, craft beer and wine. Live music and dancing. 512-495-9669

Culinary Adventures at the August Escoffier School of Culinary Arts Culinary Adventures offers cooking classes, team building exercises and fully catered events in our beautiful garden and state of the art kitchens. 512-451-5743

Edible Austin’s Eat Drink Local Week Support locally sourced food and celebrate sustainability with us! For a schedule of EDLW events, visit our website.

Pinot’s Palette Join us for an unforgettable evening of fun, friends and fine art where you enjoy BYOB cocktails and we provide the canvases! 512-249-9672 13435 N. Hwy. 183, Ste. 306 512-326-2746 3005 S. Lamar Blvd., Ste. B106

Farmers Markets

HOPE Farmers Market at Plaza Saltillo Sundays 11 a.m.–3 p.m. Come celebrate local food, art and live music every Sunday at our unique East Austin market! We accept SNAP/WIC. Free parking. 512-553-1832; 401 Comal St.

Lone Star Farmers Market Providing fresh fruits, vegetables and quality products. Located at The Shops at the Galleria every Sunday from 10 a.m.–2 p.m. in the Lowe’s parking lot. 512-924-7503 12611 Shops Pkwy., Ste. 100, Bee Cave

Texas Farmers Market Cedar Park (Saturdays, 9 a.m.–1 p.m., Lakeline Mall) and Mueller Farmers Markets (Sundays, 10 a.m.–2 p.m., the historic Mueller Hangar). Open year round, rain or shine. 512-363-5700 11200 Lakeline Mall Dr., Cedar Park 4550 Mueller Blvd.

Farms Boggy Creek Farm One of the first urban farms in the USA, BCF offers hyper-fresh vegetables at the on-farm stand, Wed. and Sat, 9 a.m.–1 p.m. Stroll the farm and visit the hen house! 512-926-4650 3414 Lyons Rd.

Twin County Lamb We are ranchers embracing stewardship of the land providing premium quality all natural, free range lamb raised in the Texas Hill Country. 830-864-4717 30881 Ranch Rd. 385, Harper

Grocers Farmhouse Delivery We bring the farm to your door, offering home or office delivery of local produce, meat, dairy, eggs and local, artisanal products. 512-529-8569

Greenling Greenling is a home delivery service of organic & sustainably produced local food! 512-440-8449

Burton Farmers & Artisans Market Held the first Saturday of the month in downtown Burton. You’ll find unique & beautiful artisan wares, garden fresh produce, grassfed beef and more. 979-836-3696

in.gredients in.gredients is a zero-waste, package-free microgrocer selling local foods with pure ingredients. 512-275-6357; 2610 Manor Rd.

Royal Blue Grocery

Mend Spa

Downtown Austin’s neighborhood grocer— with dairy, prepared foods, beer and wine, Royal Blue has it all, in a convenient and compact format. Catering too! 512-499-3993; 247 W. 3rd St. 512-476-5700; 360 Nueces St. 512-469-5888; 609 Congress Ave. 301 Brazos St., Ste. 101

My specialties include structural analysis, deep tissue, sports, and most recently John Barnes, Myofascial Release Approach. Location: Unwind.Austin.Center 512-968-0234 1908 Koenig Ln.

Peoples Rx Wheatsville Food Co-op Serving up local, organic, sustainable and humanely raised food since 1976. Full service deli, hot bar, salad bar, espresso bar and eating area with wi-fi. 512-478-2667 3101 Guadalupe St. 512-814-2888 4001 S. Lamar Blvd.

Austin’s favorite pharmacy for more than 30 years, Peoples integrates nutrition, supplements and medicine with natural remedies and custom Rx compounding. 512-219-9499; 13860 Hwy. 183 N., Ste. C 512-459-9090; 4018 N. Lamar Blvd. 512-444-8866; 3801 S. Lamar Blvd. 512-327-8877; 4201 Westbank Dr.

Housewares and Gifts Whole Foods Market Selling the highest quality natural & organic products. 512-542-2200 525 N. Lamar Blvd. 512-345-5003 9607 Research Blvd. 512-206-2730 12601 Hill Country Blvd., Bee Cave 512-358-2460 4301 W. William Cannon

HEALTH AND BEAUTY Aquasana Healthy living starts with healthy water! Aquasana manufactures and sells high performance water filtration systems for home and commercial use. 866-662-6885

Bicycle Sport Shop Bicycle Sport Shop has been selling bicycles and cycling equipment in Austin since 1983. Our goal is to get more people on bikes more often. 512-477-3472 517 S. Lamar Blvd. 512-345-7460 10947 Research Blvd. 512-637-6890 9900 W. Parmer Ln.

Callahan’s General Store “Austin’s real general store!” From hardware to westernwear, from feed to seed... and a whole lot more! 512-385-3452 501 Bastrop Hwy.

Der Küchen Laden Der Küchen Laden is for the little chef in all of us. We have gourmet kitchenware, tools, gadgets, coffees and teas (just to name a few). Come check us out! 830-997-4937 258 E. Main St., Fredericksburg

Faraday’s Kitchen Store Austin’s source for cookware, bakeware, kitchen tools, knives, cooking classes, holiday gifts and so much more. 512-266-5666 12918 Shops Pkwy., Ste. 540, Bee Cave

The Herb Bar Best place to cure what ails you and a healing resource center since 1986. Our Optimal Health Advisers are highly trained, knowledgeable and compassionate. 512-444-6251 200 W. Mary St.

Serve Gourmet Garden Fresh Essentials Independent consultant for NYR Organic. Neal’s Yard Remedies certified organic skincare and beauty, loved in the UK for 30 years. Meet your new favorite products! Independent Consultants needed in U.S. 512-369-9899

Fun and functional finds will make the casual cook look and feel like a celebrated chef. Gadgets to simplify or tablescapes to mystify can all be found in one spot. Let us show you around, or shop our store online! 512-480-0171 241 W. 3rd St.



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Landscape and Environmental Barton Springs Nursery Locally grown Texas native plants. Organic pest management. Environmentally friendly soil amendments. Beautiful gifts. 512-328-6655 3601 Bee Caves Rd.

Countryside Nursery & Landscape Specializing in Texas native plants with the largest selection of shade trees. Find everything for organic gardening plus gift shop and bonsai trees. 512-249-0100 13292 Pond Springs Rd.

Garden-Ville Organic gardening products, including soils, herbicides and plants. Seven locations throughout Central Texas. 512-329-4900 3606 FM 1327, Creedmoor 512-754-0060 2212 Old RR 12, San Marcos 512-930-8282 250 W.L. Walden Dr, Georgetown

It’s About Thyme Garden Center

lodging Onion Creek Kitchens at Juniper Hills Farm Cooking school, private dinners, luxury cabin rentals. 830-833-0910 5818 RR 165, Dripping Springs

Travaasa Experiential Resorts Experiential Resort. 512-364-0061 13500 FM 2769


The Purple Fig Cleaning Co. We are a local company providing green cleaning services, producing green cleaning products and offering green living workshops to adults and children. 512-351-1405

Time Warner Cable Business Class

Photography and Art


Andy Sams Photography

Atria at the Arboretum

We love creating artistic, vibrant images that capture our subjects’ personalities. We pride ourselves on providing topnotch service from start to finish. 512-694-6311

The Contemporary Austin

Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center

Marta Stafford Fine Art

We are a garden center and teaching facility dedicated to promoting organic time-tested gardening practices. 512-288-6113 8648 Old Bee Caves Rd.

We’ve got homemade, thin crust pizzas with local veggies and meats. Gluten-free options, too! Three locations—Eastside, Airport and now Crestview. 512-524-0933 1401 Rosewood Ave. 512-454-7437 5312 Airport Blvd., Ste. G 512-467-8900 1809-1 W. Anderson Ln.

Time Warner Cable Business Class offers a full suite of business communication tools to small and medium businesses and enterprise-sized companies. 877-824-8314

The Contemporary Austin reflects the spectrum of contemporary art through exhibitions, commissions, education, and the collections. With two locations and the Art School, The Contemporary aspires to be an essential part of city life. 512-453-5312; 700 Congress Ave. 512-458-8191; 3809 W. 35th St.

Natural Gardener

East Side Pies

A boutique law firm specializing in the representation of restaurants, bars, food and beverage purveyors and other hospitality ventures throughout Texas. 512-565-1849 300 S. Lamar, Ste. 308

Oxfam America is an international relief and development organization that creates lasting solutions to poverty, hunger, and injustice. 800-776-9326;

Oxfam America

Top quality culinary herbs for chefs, and native plants for gardeners. A nursery with expert staff and pocketfriendly prices. Free lectures most Sundays. 512-280-1192 11726 Manchaca Rd.

The Wildflower Center is a native plant botanic garden, a university research center and one of the 1,000 places to see before you die. 512-232-0100 4801 La Crosse Ave.

Pecore Law

A pairing of art and antiques. The collection includes sculpture, representational works and contemporary expressionism in a charming vintage 1930s home. 830-693-9999; 200 Main St., Marble Falls

TASTE Wine + Art Offering a stunning art collection by 40+ established Texan artists with a wide range of styles. Worldwide and Texas wines sold by the taste, glass, bottle or case. 830-868-9290 213 N. Nugent Ave., Johnson City

Professional Services


Austin Label Company

Cultivate your urban homestead! YardFarm designs & constructs edible, native & waterwise landscapes that reflect their owners’ organic lifestyle. 512-961-7117 7204 Shelton Rd.

Custom Labels up to 10 x 20 on paper, foil, synthetics, multiple adhesives, embossing, hot foil and UV coatings. Proud members of GoTexan, FTA and TWGGA. 512-302-0204 1834 Ferguson Ln., Ste. 201

Atria at the Arboretum offers exceptional senior living with luxury services and amenities for Austin’s most fascinating older adults. 512-346-4900; 9306 Great Hills Trail

ISO Commercial ISO Commercial is a brokerage firm specializing in restaurant, bar and retail spaces in Austin and the surrounding markets. 512-799-3448 311 W. 5th St., Ste. 100

Restaurants Barlata Tapas Bar Located in the heart of South Lamar. Barlata offers a variety of tapas, paellas, regional Spanish wines and cavas. Come and enjoy a bit of Spain with us. 512 473-2211 1500 S. Lamar Blvd., Ste. 150

Buenos Aires Cafe Austin-grown Argentine restaurant. We use only the freshest ingredients available and make an effort to support local farmers. Food made with love daily. 512-382-1189; 1201 E. 6th St. 512-441-9000; 13500 Galleria Cir., Bee Cave

El Naranjo Traditional Mexican cuisine. We cook everything from scratch, using local and organic ingredients as much as possible. 512-474-2776; 85 Rainey St.

Eden East Signature restaurant of award-winning chef Sonya Coté, Eden East sprouted from the collaborative efforts of some of Austin’s local food heroes. 512-428-6500 755 Springdale Rd.

FABI+ROSI FABI+ROSI serves classic European dishes with a young and modern twist. Sourcing locally grown and sustainably raised provisions is our top priority. 512-236-0642 509 Hearn St.

Green Pastures Located in old South Austin a mile and a half south of the river on 5 acres. Offering lunch, dinner and Sunday brunch. Catering and events on and offsite. 512-444-4747; 811 W. Live Oak St.

Hillside Farmacy A restaurant and specialty grocery store located in the old Hillside Drugstore building, beautifully restored using original pharmacy cabinetry. 512-628-0168 1209 E. 11th St.

Jack Allen’s Kitchen Texan in spirit and local in source, Jack Allen’s Kitchen serves up Texas-inspired cuisine, fresh cocktails, cold beers and good times daily. 512-852-8558 7720 Hwy. 71 W. 512-215-0372 2500 Hoppe Tr., Round Rock

Kerbey Lane Cafe Kerbey Lane Cafe has proudly served comfortable food at a reasonable price since 1980. Come into any of our 5 Austin locations for a taste! 512-451-1436; 3704 Kerbey Ln. 512-445-4451; 3003 S. Lamar Blvd. 512-258-7757; 13435 Hwy. 183, Ste. 415 512-477-5717; 2606 Guadalupe St. 512-899-1500; 4301 W. William Cannon


HEIRLOOM 2013 Heirloom 2013

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Coming to PBS Television in Winter 2013 Check Your Local Listings or go to




The Leaning Pear Café & Eatery

The Peach Tree

Serving the Texas Hill Country fresh and seasonal favorites using local ingredients. 512-847-7327 111 River Rd., Wimberley

A Fredericksburg family tradition for over 40 years. Serving delicious homemade foods daily. Boutique offers distinctive gifts and apparel for the home. 830-997-9527 210 S. Adams, Fredericksburg

Lenoir Lenoir is an intimate, family-run restaurant offering a weekly, local prix-fixe menu, great wine and friendly service. 512-215-9778 1807 S. 1st St.

The Turtle Restaurant

Navajo Grill

Uptown Blanco Restaurant

A unique dining establishment nestled deep in the heart of where historic Fredericksburg lies. 830-990-8289 803 E. Main St., Fredericksburg

Your destination for food prepared from locally available, seasonal ingredients. 325-646-8200 514 Center Ave., Brownwood

Open for lunch daily. Dinner Thurs.–Sun. Unique culinary specials using local hill country ingredients. Ballroom & Courtyard available for private groups. 830-833-0738 317 Main St., Blanco

Otto’s German Bistro Otto’s offers German-inspired fare in Fredericksburg, Texas. Featuring locally sourced produce & meats. Local beers & wines on tap, handcrafted cocktails. 830-307-3336 316 E. Austin St., Fredericksburg

Wink Restaurant & Wine Bar The daily menu is based on local artisans. Wink happily embraces omnivores, vegetarians, vegans, pescetarians and special dietary issues. 512-482-8868 1014 N. Lamar Blvd.

Specialty Market


For Goodness Sake Natural Foods

Fredericksburg Conference and Visitors Bureau

Family owned and operated health food store featuring high quality supplements, all-natural and organic bodycare plus unique grocery items. 830-606-1900 1306 E. Common St., Ste. 101, New Braunfels

Make It Sweet At Make It Sweet, you can find tools, supplies and ingredients to make cakes, cookies and candies and learn fun, new techniques in the classes offered. 512-371-3401 9070 Research Blvd.

Mission Restaurant Supply We are the premier foodservice equipment & supply dealer in Central & South Texas. We’re open to the public! Sales, leasing and service. 512-389-1705 6509 N. Lamar Blvd. 210-354-0690 1126 S. St. Mary’s St., San Antonio 361-289-5255 1737 N. Padre Island Dr., Corpus Christi 956-467-1295 3422 N. 10th St., McAllen

Visit Fredericksburg, a small gem nestled in the Texas Hill Country. Enjoy eclectic shops, diverse lodging, amazing restaurants and Texas wines. 866-997-3600

Marble Falls/Lake LBJ Chamber of Commerce & CVB Visit Marble Falls, adventure by day, romance by night and an array of activities in between—wineries, lakes and caves, golf, shopping and more! 830-693-2815 100 Avenue G., Marble Falls

San Saba Economic Development Corporation Be a part of San Saba’s community and economic rebirth. Award winning winery, olive oil company, gourmet dining, antique mercantile, historic shops and PECANS! 325-372-8291 303 S. Clear, San Saba





Marianne Vitale. Burned Bridge Junction (Congress) 2013. Wood, 91 x 339 x 339 inches (as installed). Installation view, The Contemporary Austin – Jones Center, Austin. Courtesy of the artist and Zach Feuer Gallery. Photograph by Dave Mead.

art de terroir

Liam Gillick September 21, 2013 – January 5, 2014 Marianne Vitale September 21, 2013 – January 5, 2014 Video screening: Marianne Vitale in Context Thursday, December 5, 7P, Jones Center

Jones Center 700 Congress Avenue Austin, TX 78701 512 453 5312 86



Laguna Gloria 3809 West 35th Street Austin, TX 78703 512 458 8191

Art School 3809 West 35th Street Austin, TX 78703 512 323 6380

Let us do the cooking. You take the credit.

Order your holiday meal in -store or online! south



north–the domain

WiLLiam Cannon and mopaC

downtown 6th and Lamar

hiLL Country GaLLeria

hiGhWay 183 and 360

Get Social with Us @wholefoodsatX

mopaC and braker Lane – Opening January 15, 2014!

Edible Austin Heirloom Issue 2013  
Edible Austin Heirloom Issue 2013  

Celebrate the traditions and cultures of food and drink with our Heirloom Issue.