edible
No. 52 May/June | Beverage 2017
Austin
®
Celebrating Central Texas food culture, season by season
TOAST to
10
YEARS
the bar is back
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CONTENTS beverage issue 8 notable MENTIONS 12 notable EDIBLES Save the World Brewing Co., Lost Pines Yaupon Tea, Still Austin Whiskey Co..
18 edible SPOTLIGHT
Local Hero Awards.
36
30 PEOPLE
The bee philosopher.
32 edible ED
The new bee bubble.
40 farmers DIARY
52 edible UPDATE
Healthy food programs in Austin.
54 edible BOOKS
Breakfast in Texas.
57 edible VITICULTURE
66 LAST word
22 Gary and Dee Kelleher
Cooking up dinner with a couple spirits.
27 Keeping it Real Deal The true story behind Adelbert’s.
36 The Power of Ten What should we have for dinner?
Not your grandma’s tea.
63 The Directory
How to distill spirits.
COVER: Tartines (page 48). Photography by Jenna Northcutt.
22
BEVERAGE features
Chasing the silver bullet.
57 edible GARDENS
48
Comanche Oaks.
43 Donn’s Depot Rolling with the flow.
48 The Great Tartine Not just a sandwich.
PUBLISHER’S NOTE
TOAST TO 10 YEARS
T
PUBLISHERS Marla Camp Jenna Northcutt
en years ago, while on a freelance job in New York
EDITOR
City, I was staying in the Brooklyn apartment of my
Kim Lane
dear friend Joan Oleck and had one of those pivotal moments in life. She picked up a copy of Edible Brooklyn from her coffee table and said she’d been saving it to
ADVERTISING DIRECTOR Dawn Weston
show me. “You should do this in Austin,” she stated with
COPY EDITOR
the same authority that had landed me many a job at
Anne Marie Hampshire
her suggestion. (That’s what dear friends do, and Joan is especially good at it.) Staring at the gorgeous cover depicting a man in a city doorway roasting a goat on a spit, I concurred. To humor her. But secretly, I fell in love with the idea.
EDITORIAL ASSISTANTS Claire Cella, Dena Garcia, Cari Marshall, Michelle Moore
EVENTS COORDINATOR Fast forward to Austin a few days later and I showed the magazine to
Susanna Cassady
Jenna Noel, the erstwhile sole employee of my graphic design business who’d been with me since interning while still an undergraduate at UT. “Wouldn’t it be wonderful if we could do this in Austin?” I wondered wistfully out loud. One minute later, after quickly Googling it, she calmly said, “We can do this.”
MARKETING SPECIALISTS Christine Andrews, Amy Young
DISTRIBUTION MANAGER Grayson Oheim
And we did. Three months after I’d purchased the copyright / trademark licensing agreement for 28 counties in Central Texas for a newly minted Edible Austin, we published our first issue in June of 2007.
ADMINISTRATIVE ASSISTANT Darby Kendall
ADVISORY GROUP Even with over 20 years of journalism and publishing industry experience under my belt at that time, it was still a steep learning curve. We hired our first editor, Robin Chotzinoff, and plunged into it, with Jenna
Terry Thompson-Anderson, Paula Angerstein, Dorsey Barger, Jim Hightower, Toni Tipton-Martin, Mary Sanger, Carol Ann Sayle
firmly in the Associate Publisher’s seat. Austin’s publishing market was much more competitive than we could have imagined, yet the non-financial rewards were overwhelming. We found a community who shared our mission and we broke ground and grew together. Just shy of a year later, Kim Lane came onboard as editor and has carried that critical role ever since. We’ve grown from a “staff ” of two to today’s—still tiny—team of 10, whose hard work and dedication allow us to continue to set ambitious goals to deepen our roots and reach new audiences. But we owe our genesis to Joan and Jenna. With this issue, Jenna (now) Northcutt becomes the official co-publisher of Edible Austin. I’m so happy to share the future of the magazine with my best balance buddy of the past 10 years. For the next 10, it’s my turn to say, “We can do this.”
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CONTACT US Edible Austin 1411A Newning Ave., Austin, TX 78704 512-441-3971 info@edibleaustin.com edibleaustin.com Edible Austin is published bimonthly by Edible Austin L.L.C. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be used without written permission of the publisher. ©2017. Every effort is made to avoid errors, misspellings and omissions. If, however, an error comes to your attention, please accept our sincere apologies and notify us.
MARTINE
HONEYSUCKLE LIQUEUR
A DISTILLED DALLIANCE TO SIP OR TO STIR.
INCREASE YOUR TEX APPEAL
PAULA’S TEXAS LEMON LIQUEUR HANDMADE IN AUSTIN SINCE 2006 EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM
BEVERAGE 2017
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notable MENTIONS
You’re Invited to the
FARM TO PLATE IS BACK! The Sustainable Food Center’s wildly popular fundraising event Farm to Plate returns for the 10th year at Barr Mansion on Wednesday, May 10, from 7 to 9:30 p.m. (with a VIP hour at 6 p.m.). This special benefit focuses exclusively on local food and beverages prepared by more than 30 acclaimed local chefs, and also features local wineries, breweries and spirits on the grounds of the country’s first certified-organic special events venue. The event benefits the programs of Sustainable Food Center, which has a mission to cultivate a healthy community by strengthening the local food system and improving access to nutritious, affordable food. Visit sustainablefoodcenter.org for details and
Live Music
Carnival Games Drinks Food
tickets.
PICKIN’, GRINNIN’, TASTIN’ AND SIPPIN’ AT FARMGRASS FEST Join Edible Austin for another weekend of pickin’ and grinnin’ in support of Central Texas farmers at the fourth annual Farmgrass Fest, May 12–13, at Simmons Family Farm in nearby Niederwald. Bring the family and camp onsite for the weekend or pop by for delicious food from local vendors and enjoy a set
Join us for a fun night of live music, county fair style food and drink, carnival games, and entertainment. Saturday, May 20, 2017 from 5:00-9:00 p.m. at Central Texas Food Bank 6500 Metropolis Dr. Austin, TX 78744 Tickets on sale now at centraltexasfoodbank.org/21countyfair
from one of the many bands playing on the main stage—either way, you’ll be supporting an emergency medical fund for hardworking farmers in Central Texas. General admission is $55, and kids under 12 are free. Visit farmgrass.org for more information.
MOTHER’S DAY LUNCH WITH WINE AND LAVENDER If your mother (or the special mother f igure in your life) happens to enjoy wine, gourmet food and
lavender-scented
surround-
ings, there’s a perfect Mother’s Day event for you and that special lady: Becker Vineyard’s Mother’s Day Luncheon on Sunday, May 14, at noon occurs at the peak of laven-
Presented by
der season in the Hill Country, and Becker Vineyards in Stonewall is in the heart of it. What a perfect time to enjoy the vineyard’s 46 acres of fruit, lavender and peach orchards and enjoy a sumptuous, multi-course meal with Becker Vineyards Wine pairings. Visit beckervineyards.com for more information.
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WHERE WILL YOU TAKE IT?
32 OUNCES OF ABGB BEER. READY TO MAKE A STORY.
Tell us yours.
Instagram: #abgbcrowler | theabgb.com
EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM
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21 COUNTY FAIR: A FUN WAY TO FIGHT HUNGER Experience Central Texas Food Bank in a new way at the first-ever 21 County Fair on Saturday, May 20, from 5 to 9 p.m. Presented by H-E-B, this lively celebration will include both interactive and delicious ways to help fight hunger while learning about the food bank’s programs and services. Food will be provided by H-E-B, Via 313 Pizzaria, 512 SNO and GoodPop, beverages by Austin Beerworks, Blue Owl Brewing and Montucky Cold Snacks, and live entertainment by the Boss Street Brass Band and Quick Draw Photobooth. General admission tickets are $50. Visit centraltexasfoodbank.org/21countyfair for details.
ENJOY “BREAKFAST IN TEXAS” AT BOOK PEOPLE Edible Austin presents “Breakfast in Texas” at Book People on Thursday, June 22, at 7 p.m. We’ll discuss “Breakfast in Texas: Recipes for Elegant Brunches, Down-Home Classics and Local Favorites” with the book’s author Terry Thompson-Anderson and Houston-based photographer Sandy Wilson. Hear more about their culinary adventures while making this lively and inspiring food-lover’s tome, and enjoy tastings and drinks straight from its pages. Go to bookpeople.com for more.
HILL COUNTRY FOOD TRUCK FESTIVAL The fourth annual Hill Country Food Truck Festival returns on Saturday, June 24, from noon to 11 p.m. in Luckenbach. In addition to about a dozen regional food trucks, the popular family-friendly event also features a “Weingarten” with Texas Hill Country wine, local craft beers at the Luckenbach Texas bar and a lineup of live Texas music throughout the day and evening. Tickets are $15 per adult, and children 12 and under are free. Proceeds benefit the Texas Center for Wine and Culinary Arts (TCWCA), an approximately 15,000-square-foot educational facility, which will soon be built in Fredericksburg, the hub of the wine industry in the Texas Hill Country. Go to visitfredericksburgtx.com for more information.
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REAL FARMERS WHO MAKE
REAL WINE
Vineyard manager Jake Terrell and his dog, Willie.
From our farm to your table. Authentic Sonoma wines, handcrafted from 100% Sonoma County grapes.
©2016 Kobrand Corporation, Purchase, NY www.kobrandwineandspirits.com
notable EDIBLES THAT’S THE BEER TALKING—AND SAVING
H
omer Simpson famously called alcohol the “cause of—and
equipment to filter beer natural-
solution to—all of life’s problems.” Craft brewers (and
ly—without pasteurization—
husband-and-wife team) David and Quynh Rathkamp wouldn’t
and eco-friendly technology
exactly agree with him, but they have found a way for their
like solar panels and gray-water
Belgian-style beer to relieve at least a few problems out there.
collection. It also sports a tast-
The physicians-turned-philanthropists founded Save the World
ing room where visitors can try seasonal varieties outside the usual
Brewing Co. in 2014 expressly to donate all their profits (after
Save the World selection carried by various Central Texas stores and
operating costs) to charities. Think: Newman’s Own run by Trappist
bars. Proceeds from the tasting room’s tip jar alone recently funded
monks. So far, their beers have raised $40,000 for Habitat for
a new well in Uganda.
Humanity, Food for the Hungry and Meals on Wheels—nonprof-
Beyond the philanthropy (this year’s goal is $50,000), Save the
its they prefer because of what they saw as medical missionar-
World stands apart in the craft brew world for its unique nam-
ies in developing countries. “As much as we loved helping our
ing system. Just to name a few, there’s the witbier ale Agnus Dei
patients in Dallas, there are a lot of really basic human needs not
(“Lamb of God”), the patersbier ale Lux Mundi (“Light of the
even being addressed throughout the world,” says Quynh.
World”) and the pale ale Humilus Filius (“Humble Son”) which
Inspired by a pastor to follow their passions, the couple quit
is, as Quynh jokes, a stark contrast to, say, Arrogant Bastard beer.
medicine and turned David’s beloved brewing hobby into a full-
“We read about brewers getting into arguments with each other
time, charitable profession that doesn’t earn them a lick of salary
over using beer names that sound too much alike,” he says. “So
(though they pay their staff). They get by on their savings, and
we decided Latin names for Jesus would be safe.” —Steve Wilson
there’s cheap overhead brewing at the Marble Falls family proper-
For more information, visit savetheworldbrewing.com or call
ty where they’d planned to retire anyway. The headquarters boasts
830-637-7654.
TWO AWARD-WINNING WINERIES
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7055 W State Hwy 29, just 6.5 miles west of Burnet OPEN Thurs. Fri. & Sun. 1:00 pm - 5:00 pm & Sat. 1:00 pm - 6:00 pm
7214 Park Road 4 W, Burnet, Texas OPEN Thursday - Sunday from 12:00 pm – 5:00 pm
(512) 766-0555
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(512) 820-2950
with locations in San Antonio, Houston and Smithville! amysicecreams.com | honeyspizza.com bakedbyamys.com | philsicehouse.com
The YMCA of Austin is pleased to offer The Quick Cook, an interactive series of classes that emphasize saving time while preparing nutritious meals for you and your family. Classes meet weekly to watch cooks prepare recipes, discuss food and learn from each other. Everyone leaves each class with new knowledge, skills and a recipe to prepare. Join the Y in your journey to great health - starting with good food.
LEARN MORE & REGISTER TODAY AT
AustinYMCA.org/programs/quick-cook
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Comfort in a bottle
TEA TIME FOR YAUPON
L
ike Game of Thrones’ Cersei Lannister, yaupon is a complicated villain. A native
Texas holly, it’s grown out of control in the Piney Woods near Bastrop ever since the devastating fire of 2011— choking out new pines while increasing the chances of another conflagration, and further endangering the Houston toads that are trying to make a comeback. On the other hand, yaupon also happens to be America’s only native caffeine-generating plant—long used by Gulf Coast Native Americans to brew a smooth, sweet, energizing tea. See the business model yet? The area’s property owners are more than happy to let Lost Pines Yaupon Tea rip out their yaupon and make it into a drink—turning the scourge into a boon. “The trees and frogs and property owners get help and we get caffeinated tea,” says Heidi Wachter, a co-founder of the company. Wachter and friends Jason Ellis and John Seibold launched Lost Pines in 2015; each of them convinced that eco-aware consumers
Visit our tasting room
couldn’t resist a sustainable tea plucked from Austin’s backyard. But
142 Lindner Branch Trail, Comfort, Texas
ter like regular tea (“People ask us if we’ve added sugar,” says Ellis),
830-995-2948 | bendingbranchwinery.com
and though it may not have as much caffeine as chocolate, its high
this isn’t just a drink to feel smug about. Yaupon tea doesn’t turn bit-
levels of theobromine (think: dark chocolate) bestow a more focused, long-lasting buzz without causing the jitters. It’s also full of antioxidants, has anti-inflammatory properties and, as a plant growing all
SUMMER BRINGS A NEW TWIST TO SAVORY AND LIGHT
too well on its own without chemical help, it’s bonafide organic. The Lost Pines team prepares the leaves in both light and dark roasts out of an industrial kitchen. They sell it loose-leaf and in steeping bags at the SFC Farmers’ Market in Sunset Valley and at the HOPE Farmers Market, at spots such as Counter Culture Café and Bouldin Creek Café and online. Down the road, the friends want to sell powdered and bottled versions of the tea, as well as a yaupon kombucha. But for now, customers can press, steep, sunbrew or cold-brew the versatile leaf with equal results. “It’s hard to screw up,” says Ellis. —Steve Wilson For more information, visit lostpinesyaupon.com or call 512-748-4546.
ORDERING ONLINE NOW! SLICE HAPPY HOUR MON-FRI 2 - 5 PM
• Artisan thin crust pizza
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• Homemade sauces & premium cheese • Locally sourced meats & produce offerings
www.EastSidePies.com
JUST A CRUMBLE TAKES GRILLED CORN FROM FANTASTIC TO
¡F tás co!
All it takes to transform corn into authentic Mexican elotes is a touch of tradition—like a crumble of creamy La Vaquita Queso Fresco, produced right here in Texas. Explore our delicious recipes at LaVaquitaCheese.com
A WHISKEY 100 YEARS IN THE MAKING
T
o become the first whiskey distillery in Austin since Prohibition, Still Austin Whiskey Co. had to fight against the architect of
Prohibition himself. Long-dead Senator John Morris Sheppard of Texas not only penned the 18th Amendment (Prohibition), he also left behind a legacy of local laws and regulations that made it nigh impossible to distill spirits within Austin city limits. But after two years of persistence and a combined know-how in law, finance, the alcohol industry, engineering and other fields, the three families behind Still Austin won approval to launch a “grain-to-glass” distillery in South Austin. “It took a determined set of Austinites to get it done,” says Chris Seals, co-founder and CEO. Though Still Austin’s massive 42-foot still comes from Scotland, the resemblance to Scottish or even Kentucky/Tennessee whiskey-making traditions ends there. Still Austin has forged a uniquely local approach to bourbon by mashing, fermenting, distilling, barreling and bottling all its whiskies completely in-house with grains from nearby growers like Richardson Farms; water filtered by Central Texas limestone; and an aging technique suited to our hot climate (using barrels made with locally harvested wood, no less). Beyond ingredients, the craft distillery embraces an Austin sense of innovation with a line of “new-make” (unaged) whiskies, such as the spicy Mother Pepper and the meaty Smoked Briskey, to complement its standard bourbon. Customers seeking even bolder beverages will be able to eventually make their own on site via the upcoming “Distill Your Own
Helping buyers & sellers move to the next chapter in life.
Barrel” program. “Because it’s still a felony to make whiskey at home,” notes Seals, “whiskey isn’t a craft that’s been open-sourced. There’s so much creativity in Austin that we wanted a lab to give people the tools to learn the whiskey-making process.” Those who’d rather experiment with their mouths instead of their hands can join Still’s Whiskey Geek club, whose members will get to taste and critique the distillery’s latest creations. Still Austin fought hard to launch in Austin, and it plans on making deep roots here. Set to open in May, the distillery will serve its bourbons, whiskies and one-offs exclusively in its tasting room and “whiskey garden” before eventually ramping up distribution around Austin’s bars and stores. “Our first focus is our backyard,” says Seals. “This is our community.” —Steve Wilson For more information, visit stillaustin.com or call 512-276-2700.
Barbara Van Dyke Realtor® Associate, GRI
c: 51 2.431. 2552 o: 51 2. 3 27.4800 barbara .van dyke@sothebysrealty.com barbaravandyke.kupe rrealty.com
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No matter how you mix it, my handmade vodka beats those giant “imports” every day.
G RaIA A Nesc SFr BY DAVID ALAN
For 8 servings... ★ 8 oz. Tito’s Handmade Vodka ★ 4 oz. elderflower liqueur ★ 750 ml bottle rosé wine ★ 12 oz. grapefruit soda ★ 1 whole lemon, cut into small wedges ★ 1 whole lime, cut into half-wheels ★ 4 cups fresh cut melon
Combine Tito’s, rosé, and elderflower liqueur in a large jar or pitcher. Cut citrus and melons and add to liquid. Allow to sit, refrigerated and covered, for about 4 hours. Before serving, add a large block of ice with the grapefruit soda and gently stir. Ladle sangria into punch cups or wine goblets, making sure that each portion receives some of the cut fruit as a garnish.
WINE ENTHUSIAST RATINGS SCORE OUT OF 100 POINTS
PTS
edible SPOTLIGHT
LOCAL HERO AWARDS BY ST EV E W I LSO N
L
ast fall, in addition to a national election, Edible Austin
50 Best New Restaurants list of 2016, and Food & Wine named
readers had the honor and privilege to exercise their right
Fink one of the best new chefs the same year—surely the first
to vote for our annual Local Hero Awards. Together, you
of many accolades to come. emmerandrye.com • 512-366-5530
chose the best people, businesses and organizations making
Jessica Fradono Photography
a difference in our local food scene. Cue the red carpet!
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FOO
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D SHOP
FOOD SHOP
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/ R E S TA U R A EF N
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Antonelli’s Cheese Shop A Hyde Park institution, Antonelli’s Cheese Shop gives buy-
CHEF / RESTAURANT
ing cheese the same gravitas as selecting vintages at a wine store
Kevin Fink, Emmer & Rye
cream shop. The staff here sound like sommeliers when describ-
and the same delight as ordering a scoop at your favorite ice ing the curated selection of the world’s finest artisanal cheeses
This Rainey Street restaurant makes no apologies for its
(including great local stuff), and pass out samples with the pleas-
wholehearted embrace of whole grains—especially ones
ant enthusiasm of the Amy’s Ice Creams counter staff. They’ll
with evocative names like “White Sonora” and “Blue Beard
also go on and on about the available varieties of cured meats,
Durum.” Chef Kevin Fink mills these and other fine flours by
preserves, honeys, chocolates and other high-end must-haves for
hand—the first step in rendering some of the most flavorful
the serious-about-cheese lifestyle. For those who find this sort of
noodles created since our hunting-gathering forefathers went
selection daunting, a database keeps track of all your previous
off the Paleo diet. Wheat may take center stage here (the plant
purchases for easy reference any time you come back. Since John
even decorates the walls), but Fink hasn’t ignored the rest of
and Kendall Antonelli opened the place in 2010, they’ve shared
the food pyramid. There’s plenty of short-rib carnitas, pork
their cheese-mongering know-how with local restaurants and
Milanese, cured mackerel and other meats to go around, and
breweries, and through events like their “Cheers! to Cheese”
even more unexpected proteins, such as octopus and caviar,
beverage pairing series, they keep coming up with new ways to
sharing space on the dim-sum cart alongside an amazing
enrich the dairy lives of all Austinites.
assortment of pastries. Bon Appétit put Emmer & Rye on its
antonellischeese.com • 512-531-9610
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FOOD ARTISAN
Farm Fresh Veggies & Fruits Delivered to Your Door
Miche Bread As a full-time neuroscience researcher at University of Texas at Austin, Sandeep Gyawali studies the effects
o
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Certified Organic and All-Natural Produce
of alcohol on the brain. As a FO
baker-by-night, he studies the
O D A RT I S A N
effects of scrumptious, nutritious and boldly experimental bread on the stomach. Gyawali baked
www.thefarmsteadatdriftwood.com
in New York and at Austin’s Easy Tiger before finding his groove as Miche Bread—making bread solely for loyal subscribers, who pick up the loaves at a handful of spots around town. Gyawali coaxes rich flavors from his breads by milling local heritage grains and letting the dough leaven naturally—sometimes for days—with native yeasts and bacteria. But Gyawali’s obsession with dough doesn’t ex-
YOUR LOCAL WINERY
featuring artisan, hand-crafted wines from the best of Texas and California vinyards.
tend into the money sense of the word; he scaled back his subscriptions from weekly to every-other-week so he could spend more time experimenting, like perfecting a technique for milling Austin’s plentiful mesquite beans into flour. The Austin Mesquite Project, funded with a grant from the Austin Food & Wine Alliance, is inspiring local food and beverage makers to make mesquite products,
F ri 3 pm -8 pm , S at 11 am -6 pm , S un 12 pm -5 pm 2000 W indy t errace , B ldg 2-B, c edar p ark , tX 78613 512.551.1189 | WWW. BentoakWinery. com
like Jester King’s upcoming mesquite beer (the brewery’s Jester King Kvass is brewed using Miche’s bread). And Gyawali himself worked with Emmer & Rye on a mesquite cocktail tincture they entered in the Official Drink of Austin contest. Its name? The Mesquite-O-Bite, of course. Subscription pickup at Travis Heights Beverage World, Salt & Time or Kettle & Brine • michebread.com
FARM / FARMER Glenn and Paula Foore, Springdale Farm
“The Ultimate Nursery for Herbs” Austin Chronicle
Culinary herbs for chefs— and fruit trees, veggies and native plants for gardeners
Sign up for free gardeners tips newsletter at
itsaboutthyme.com
512-280-1192
11726 Manchaca
The City’s economic development program that helped Glenn and Paula Foore buy 4.83 acres of unassuming East Side land came with a stipulation: They had
“Best place to cure what ails you”
to provide jobs for the neighborhood. The couple wound up doing that and so much more for the area as they built a beloved urban farm that’s
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grown into a community hub. Opened in 2009, Springdale Farm sells its 75 seasonal veg-
RM FA
/ FA R M E
R
etables every Wednesday and
Enjoy the outdoors this summer!
MOSQUITO! Our all-natural, locally-made insect repellent is effective and safe for people (and babies and children) and pets. Nutritious for the skin—smells yummy!
theherbbar.com 200 West Mary 512.444.6251 EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM
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Saturday morning. The Foores also host community events like the East Austin Urban Farm Tour and an annual Tomato Dinner, as well as countless food, music and arts shindigs with local organizations. They’ve even started selling their own handmade line of soaps, body butters, scrubs and other bath products, as well as candles made with herbs and other natural ingredients grown on the farm, with partner Carla Crownover. But even when nothing’s going on at
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the farm, it’s always a fun place to simply hang out with the regulars and Ellie May, the farm dog. Little wonder Springdale has made this list five years running. springdalefarmaustin.com • 512- 386-8899
BEVERAGE ARTISAN Texas Keeper Cider
BE
VE
R A G E A RT I S
AN
the equipment in it by hand on a friend’s 20-acre ranch just south of Austin. Determined to keep their edge by staying small, the trio has produced a line of potent ciders almost as diverse as the apples of yore, and with even cooler names: Ciderweizen, GoldRush,
Back when there was no end to apple varieties and no fridges
Cider Noir. The crew makes these drinks with nothing but ap-
to keep them from spoiling, “keepers” were those special apples
ples and a spice or two, though they’re game for anything, like
that stored well and improved with age. Alas, like so many other
adding grapes to the mix (Grafter Blanc and Grafter Rosé) or
apple types, the Hick’s Texas Keeper—grown in Lamar County
hops and yeast (Co-op Saisonniers, made with The Austin Beer
in the 1880s—didn’t keep well enough to survive extinction. Its
Garden Brewing Company). Texas Keeper gets even crazier with
spirit lives on in Texas Keeper Cider, founded in 2013 by three
the limited editions it serves exclusively from a taproom in the
cider-loving Austinites. Lindsey Peebles, Brandon Wilde and
farmhouse next door, making it a must-visit for cider lovers.
head cider-maker Nick Doughty built their cidery and much of
texaskeeper.com • 512-910-3409
OUR TACOS CROSS BORDERS austintacoproject.com
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NONPROFIT Whole Kids Foundation Since 2011, the Whole Kids Foundation has invested $15 million in programs to improve the nutrition and general wellness of more than four million children in the United States, Canada and the U.K. That includes funds to help grow more than 3,600 school gardens, launch 4,400 school salad bars and train 11,000 educators in the foundation’s healthy-teacher education program. The nonprofit has expanded its reach in recent months with programs such as the School Food Support Initiative pilot, which teamed with the Chef Ann Foundation and Lifetime Fitness Foundation to help five U.S. school dis-
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tricts revamp their meal programs. The foundation also cre-
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ated a certified-organic educational farm in Roswell, Georgia, that teaches kids where healthful food comes from and offers
NON
a CSA program for the locals. Though it operates as an inde-
PROFIT
pendent entity from Whole Foods Market, Whole Kids draws on the contact list of its corporate parent for financial sup-
Stonyfield Farm and Tom’s of Maine. The foundation doesn’t
port from brands such as Annie’s, Applegate, Back to Nature,
overlook its own backyard either: Whole Foods Market employ-
Barbara’s Bakery, Cascadian Farm, CLIF Kid, Health Warrior,
ees alone have donated more than $1 million to the cause.
King Arthur Flour, Organic Valley, Rudi’s Organic Bakery,
wholekidsfoundation.org
A Chef creates, we just want to bring a little inspiration.
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COOKS at home
GARY AND DEE KELLEHER BY K AT H L E E N T H O R N B E R RY • P H OTO G RA P H Y BY M E L A N I E G R I Z Z E L
A
s the founders of Empresario, LLC (Texas’ first self-appoint-
suckle lemonade,’ but the flavor is pure honeysuckle,” he says. “It’s
ed “Spirits House”—sort of the Condé Nast of Texas booze
taken me years to find a way to bring out the true honeysuckle es-
brands), Dee and Gary Kelleher are at the helm of distilling,
sence. Growing up in Texas, there were so many summer evenings
importing, crafting and marketing some of our state’s most well-
where we would just sit in the twilight, intoxicating ourselves with
known artisan alcoholic spirits. Their portfolio includes big guns like
the scent and the flavor of honeysuckle. For me it’s a very nostalgic
Texacello LLC (makers of Paula’s Texas Spirits), Republic Tequila,
thing—I really wanted to capture that. Turns out,” he says with a
Pepe Zevada Z Tequila and Martine Honeysuckle Liqueur, to name a
chuckle, “it takes a lot of honeysuckle blossoms to make even a little
few. And though relatively new to the Tipple Empire-building game,
bit of this stuff.”
the Kellehers’ roots in Austin stretch way back to the 1970s—when
A whiff of the honeysuckle liqueur is breathtaking—ethereal,
this city was a sleepy oasis of cosmic cowboys and fresh-eyed col-
lightly sweet and intensely floral—and conjures up deep memories
lege students, yet poised on the verge of culinary revolution.
of childhood summers. Shaken into a refreshing lemonade-like bev-
While working as bartenders at Mike & Charlie’s, the young and
erage, the liqueur is relaxing and cooling, as well.
impetuous couple ran away and got married one weekend. Not long
“Dee knows this story,” Gary says, “but when I was seventeen, I
after, they opened their own catering company and deli on Mesa
took an ocean voyage to Europe, and on that trip I met a French girl
Drive—the fondly remembered Moveable Feast. Opened in 1980,
named Martine. Those memories…of youth in general…that the smell
the business offered salads, sandwiches, entrees and baked goods,
of honeysuckle brings up. It reminds me of that voyage in a way. I
and quickly found an enthusiastic clientele. Along with their cara-
mean, it was just a passing thing, probably my first crush, but that’s
mel brownies and cheddar-poppy seed rolls, the Kellehers became
why I named it Martine. It feels like that feeling. It just kind of fit.”
renowned for their ever-changing menu of freshly made soups. In
Gary all of a sudden comically raises his voice and looks at Dee. “IT’S
a typical week, Dee and Gary were making upwards of 36 gallons.
OKAY WITH MY WIFE, I SWEAR!” he yells, then both of them laugh.
Though the couple sold Moveable Feast in the mid-’80s when
Now at the table, the glowing bowls of saffron-bright soup take
their first child was born, soup still holds a commanding position
center stage. A garnish of sautéed daikon radish, serrano pepper
in their family menus. Dee still uses her collection of old, laminated
and toasted seeds adds texture and heat, and fresh cilantro leaves
recipes from the Moveable Feast days; stained originals that hearken
and lime juice brighten and offer a satisfying complexity. Served
back to those crowded, whirlwind times. “When you’re feeling a bit
with rounds of baguette, Comté cheese, a light salad and a well-
puny, like you’re ‘coming down,’” she says, “that’s when you need
chilled and crisp Texas sauvignon blanc, the meal proves to be
the beef barley soup. Oh, and the seared broccoli and potato soup!
dinner-party-worthy and equally suited to warm or cold weather.
Nowadays, I roast the broccoli…so much easier and tastes amazing!” The recipe Dee wants to share today, though, isn’t one from that
aromatic Thai soup, and it’s been in heavy rotation at their house
GARY KELLEHER’S “IT’S OKAY WITH MY WIFE, I SWEAR” HONEYSUCKLE LEMONADE
ever since it caught Dee’s eye. “This is the first soup I ever made
Makes 8 cocktails
collection. It’s an adapted version of a spiced carrot soup with lime that was once featured in the The New York Times. It’s a light but
with coconut oil rather than butter,” she says. “And you know…it’s so good for you. Oh, and it has turmeric in it. We’re all looking for ways to get more turmeric these days!” While the carrots, onions and spices simmer in a large blue pot, Gary makes some accompanying signature cocktails featuring his newest creation: Martine Honeysuckle Liqueur. “I call this ‘honey-
8 oz. Paula’s Texas Lemon Liqueur 8 oz. Martine Honeysuckle Liqueur 16 oz. Topo Chico 2 oz. fresh lemon juice Stir everything together and serve over ice. EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM
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DEE KELLEHER’S “AGAIN WITH THE MARTINE STORY” SPICED CARROT SOUP WITH LIME Adapted from David Tanis Serves 6–8 For the soup: 2 T. coconut oil 2 medium onions, sliced 1 T. chopped fresh ginger 2 garlic cloves, chopped 1 T. turmeric 1 t. whole coriander seeds, toasted and ground Pinch cayenne pepper Salt, to taste 2 lb. young carrots, peeled, chopped into 1-inch pieces 8 c. water For the garnish: 1 small daikon radish, peeled, sliced (about 2 cups) 2 T. coconut oil 1 t. mustard seeds 1 t. cumin seeds 1 serrano pepper, finely chopped 1 bunch cilantro (leaves only), chopped, for serving Lime wedges, for serving Set a heavy-bottomed soup pot over medium-high heat and add the coconut oil. When the oil is hot, add the onions and cook for about 5 minutes, until they just start to brown. Add the ginger, garlic, turmeric, coriander and cayenne and stir. Add salt, to taste, and stir again. When the soup becomes fragrant (after about 1 minute), add the carrots and water. Raise the heat and bring to a brisk simmer, then put on the lid and turn the heat to low. Cook until the carrots are tender—about 20 minutes. While the carrots are cooking, simmer the daikon radish slices in a few inches of salted water until they start to become tender. Drain and set aside. When the carrots are finished, remove the pot from the heat and let the soup cool slightly. Carefully blend the soup with an immersion blender (or in batches in a regular blender) until the soup is thick and smooth. Place the soup back on the heat and stir occasionally. In a small pan over medium-high heat, melt 2 more tablespoons of coconut oil. When it’s hot, add the mustard seeds, cumin seeds and serrano. Cook for 1 minute, until the seeds are fragrant and begin to “pop.” Place the daikon radish in a small serving bowl, add the seeds and pepper and stir. Serve the soup hot and top each bowl with some of the radish mixture and the cilantro. Serve with lime wedges on the side.
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edible HOMAGE
KEEPING IT REAL DEAL BY A M Y M c C U L LO U G H • P H OTO G RA P H Y BY M E L A N I E G R I Z Z E L
G
eorge Adelbert “Del” Hovey was what some might call
or another. Oddly enough though, Del wasn’t the brewery’s found-
“the real deal”—lively, independent and enthusiastic about
er, brewmaster or even its bartender. He was the older brother of
what comes next. And, as it turns out, he had a lot in com-
Adelbert’s Brewery founder and brewmaster, Scott Hovey.
mon with the mission behind the craft brewery that’s named after
Del passed away in 2000 after contracting a viral infection, but his
him. Adelbert’s Brewery bears Del’s name, and all the mainstay
bearded and bespectacled face is common to many an Austin beer
beers at this local brewhouse are named in honor of Del in one way
drinker. It graces the labels of strangely named Belgian-style ales, such EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM
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Left: Photograph of Del Hovey hanging above the taps in the Adelbert’s tasting room. Right: Adelbert’s Brewery founder Scott Hovey.
as Scratchin’ Hippo, Naked Nun, Black Rhino and Dancin’ Monks—all
ingredient list. “Belgian beers are wide open. It’s a free-for-all.”
of which owe their monikers to Del’s colorful tales. Scratchin’ Hippo,
In February, the brewery released its Passion Fruit Sour, the first
for instance, is a Bière de Garde (a strong pale ale) named after a
in a series of fruited sours that exhibit Scott’s point. Adelbert’s beers
time in Kenya when Del awoke to a massive hippo using the lakeside
also exhibit the yeast-generated esters and phenols that contribute
home as a late-night scratching post.
aromas of banana, apple, coriander and clove to Belgian beers. Add
Even though he was an avid adventurer and free spirit, Del
decoction—the process that causes a magical tastiness to occur be-
always took time to enjoy a beer with family and friends. Often,
tween amino acids and sugars at high temperatures (it’s the same
Del would recount stories from his fascinating travels around the
Maillard reaction that makes browned food so delicious)—to the
world (hence Travelin’ Man, the brewery’s Belgian IPA). This spirit
mix, and you’re left with some pretty luscious, complex beers.
is well reflected in his brother’s tasty brews, which champion both freedom and authenticity with a dash of the unexpected.
Another point of pride for Scott is the brewery’s use of real-deal ingredients. “We bring in all our grain from the Czech Republic, and
Seated in a small tasting room flanked by floor-to-ceiling bar-
our specialty malts come from Belgium,” he says. “I wanted to try to
rels and a loading-dock patio, Scott and Adelbert’s general manag-
make it as authentic as possible.” This authenticity is something Del
er, Sarah Haney, share the legend behind the man and the genesis
would have appreciated. He lived a life of immersive experiences,
of his eponymous beer. Scott, a 54-year-old New York native, found
such as serving as a Peace Corps volunteer in Colombia in the mid-
himself living in Houston and working as a sales manager in the
’70s where he met his wife, Maria. Afterward, back in the U.S., they
semiconductor industry (what he calls a “young man’s job”) when
started a family (Pablo’s Wild Pale Ale is named after their son). Del
his brother passed away. It was then that he reevaluated his life—
eventually took an agricultural job in Kenya, where he and his fam-
deciding to move to Austin and founding Adelbert’s Brewery about
ily lived for seven years on Lake Naivasha—fishing, boating and
a decade later.
hosting annual retreats for expat Colombian monks. A large photo
Even Scott’s choice to brew Belgian beers seems inspired by
of Del in a fishing boat hangs next to the tasting room taps. “He
Del—not because Del’s travels took him to Belgium, but because
liked to fish,” says Scott; then he guessed that Adelbert’s Buzzbait
Belgian beer is experimental. Scott says a lot of people adhere to
Blonde probably would have been Del’s favorite of their beers.
the Reinheitsgebot, or the German beer purity law, which states, as
Will all Adelbert’s beers have names inspired by Del? “Our in-
he puts it, “‘Beer shalt be made only from hops, malt and water.’
tention, initially, was that anything that was going to be a main-
Most of the world of beer rolls out of that mindset,” he says. “In-
stay should be tied to a [Del] story,” says Sarah, though she admits
cluding Mexican, American and Japanese lagers.”
a temptation to weave fictional yarns for their one-off beers. “It
“Then you had the Belgians,” he says, “who were like: You can put
would be a lot of fun to make him a mythical creature like a uni-
whatever you damn well feel like putting in your beer.” He’s noticeably
corn,” she says. “But we want to keep it authentic. People hardly
more excited about this approach—listing spices, sugars and candy
believe that there really was a scratching hippo or dancing monks!”
syrups as typical Belgian accoutrements. “It’s all encouraged,” he
she says. “So, to have a [true] story behind them is really cool.”
says—noting his love of cooking as part of the draw toward a broader 28
BEVERAGE 2017
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They’re pretty sure Del would agree.
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PEOPLE
THE BEE PHILOSOPHER BY M AY K . CO B B
A
sk local author and bee expert Jack
tal flowers and things bloom all year long so the
Bresette-Mills about beekeeping, and
bees can go into this neighborhood and have a
it soon becomes obvious that the act of
good time. But people use so many pesticides
tending bees is not a mere hobby for him, but
that can lead to colony collapse disorder, which
rather something akin to a spiritual path. This
is like a mental illness where the bees go out to
afternoon, Bresette-Mills sits on the sun-dappled
work but can’t remember how to get home. In
patio of OPA! Coffee & Wine Bar, presumably
Europe, they make products where they have to
ready to discuss beekeeping. But the chat quick-
prove their safety first, but not here.”
ly turns out to be about much more. Well-spoken
In 2016, Bresette-Mills wrote “Sensitive
yet unassuming, Bresette-Mills philosophizes
Beekeeping: Practicing Vulnerability and Non-
on a wide range of topics, from public health
violence with Your Backyard Beehive.” The
care (“Doctors shouldn’t get paid more when
highly approachable, succinct book is broken
we are sick…that is backwards”), to not spend-
into two parts: an introduction to his no-gloves,
ing your life trying to accumulate piles of money
no-veil approach to tending bees, followed by
(“There’s a high cost to having lots of money”),
the practical aspects of backyard beekeeping. “When I started this book, I had this idea of
to the news (“Why does the news have to be entertainment? Why can’t it just be news?”). These aren’t platitudes
nonviolence,” he says. “You are in charge of controlling a mass
that Bresette-Mills is spouting, though. These are the guiding prin-
amount of a population. How do you approach that? How do you
ciples by which he lives his own life in order to maintain a calm-
keep the bees from hurting themselves or one another?” And ac-
er—and, arguably, saner—way of living. He even refuses to charge
cording to Bresette-Mills, wearing a protective veil and gloves is
money for his honey. “It’s too much work to charge what it would
like a policeman going to a protest in riot gear. “The police have
be worth,” he says. “So when I give it away, it’s priceless.”
a different mentality and behave differently in riot gear,” he says.
Bresette-Mills is a concert piano technician by trade—a career
“With gloves, you bumble around more and will most likely ac-
that leaves him plenty of free time to pursue other interests, such as
cidentally kill a bee and the other bees will know it. Bees have
writing, carpentry and of course, beekeeping. “I like jobs that don’t
communication through smell—they can smell anger, danger or
require regular hours,” he says. Originally from Michigan, Bre-
death. You have to have a respect for the power of the bees. When
sette-Mills grew up playing in the sand dunes around Lake Michi-
we are overprotected, we don’t care.”
gan. Even though his older brothers kept bees, he didn’t learn much
Bresette-Mills’ approach of opening the hives without veil
about beekeeping until after college, where he had studied physics
or gloves requires vulnerability. “You have to learn how to not
and engineering. Shortly after graduating, he began voracious-
be afraid,” he says. “If you jerk your hand, the bees will know
ly reading literature—including Sherlock Holmes novels—and
there’s an enemy here.” He also believes that we are much better
was charmed and intrigued to learn that the fictional character of
off when our partner is treated as an equal, and approaching the
Holmes “was going to keep bees when he retired.” He began read-
bees in this manner has positive effects on our own well-being
ing every book he could find on beekeeping, but he wouldn’t have
in return. “My book is not exhaustive; there are many books on
his first hive until many years later when he moved with his wife,
beekeeping,” he says. “But it’s an open door…beekeeping as a path
Beverly, to their home outside of Austin in 1996. The 3-acre piece
of initiation.”
of land where the couple still lives is located between Austin and
“Bees are visible partners in our own education,” he continues.
Dripping Springs, close to the Belterra subdivision. When asked
“To go into the hive, you have to be strong enough to face the
about the sprawling development near his house, Bresette-Mills
bees. You have to gain control of yourself. They show you where
says, “It’s a good thing for the bees, because people have ornamen-
you are with yourself. The bees become your teacher.”
30
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edible ED
THE NEW BEE BUBBLE BY A N N E M A R I E H A M PS H I R E
ove over schoolyard-bird wranglers. If nonprofits
M
The honeybee grant program began in 2013, when The Bee
Whole Kids Foundation and The Bee Cause Project
Cause Project was founded in Savannah, Georgia, to educate the
have their way, the beehive may just be the new chicken
next generation on the importance of honeybees and why they’re
coop. The two organizations have partnered to offer schools and
critical to sustaining us. “It’s scary to have ‘bees’ and ‘kids’ in the
other community entities several types of grants to help save the
same sentence, much less the same campus,” says Tami Enright,
bees through education, observation and hands-on care. Schools
The Bee Cause’s executive director. But that fear didn’t last long.
can apply to receive an indoor or outdoor observation hive, an
After piloting the program with schools in Charleston, South
outdoor top-bar hive or a monetary grant to start or enhance their
Carolina, and Savannah, Enright discovered the new nonprofit
own beekeeping program. Each school awarded the grant gets to
couldn’t keep up with the demand. “The principals were into it,
work with a volunteer bee mentor—sourced locally from bee-
the students were into it, the parents were into it. We were just
keeping associations—and receives training, curricula and equip-
basically completely open and honest and said, We think the best
ment to ensure their program is sustainable.
way to get approval is to go through your PTO board, tell them what
Why all the buzz about bees? As you’ve most likely heard, bees are in trouble. The U.S. honeybee population is rapidly declining—at a 30 per-
you want to do and why you want to do it, and let’s see who’s open to the idea. And NO ONE SAID ‘NO,’” she recalls with disbelief.
cent annual rate per some estimates—leading the U.S. Fish and Wildlife
These early adopters set the stage for positive reviews and word-
Service to place several species of bees on the endangered species list
of-mouth among teacher friends across the country, which created a
in early 2017. (Experts blame habitat loss, pesticides and parasites for
need to formalize the process. Enter Whole Foods Market in Austin,
the decline.) And because one in three bites of our food is reliant on
who heard about the brand-new nonprofit and did a 5-percent com-
pollinators such as honeybees, the bee-pocalypse is not just sad for
munity giving day in the stores to fund a hive for a school in the area.
the bees; it could affect food sources for future generations.
So far, the two organizations have funded beehives in 46 states
And that’s where education comes in—the primary mission of
and four countries—50 in 2016 and 150 since the program’s incep-
the two apiophile (that’s a fancy word for bee-lover) organiza-
tion. Three of those grants have been awarded in Austin: one to
tions. “Our biggest focus is education, and making sure that kids,
Austin Montessori School, one to Austin Discovery School and
parents and staff all feel that level of comfort and understand how
one to Sustainable Food Center.
important pollinators are,” says Kim Herrington, school programs and finance director for Whole Kids Foundation.
Feedback from students has been overwhelmingly positive. Enright says it’s amazing to witness kids develop caretaking skills
But if the thought of stinging insects swarming around kids
and empathy for the bees. “The kids actually have this classroom
on the playground has you feeling squeamish, you’re not alone.
pet that they’re taking care of,” she says. “The conversations just
Educating both kids and adults about bee care and safety is also
start naturally happening. If they aren’t seeing bees in the garden,
paramount to the beekeeping initiative. “One of the things that
they’re asking, Are the bees healthy? Are we spraying things on the
we really focused on in the beginning was to get a better under-
garden that’s killing the bees? Do we have year-round bloom for the
standing about bees and safety; about how to implement hives in
bees? Do we have a water source? So the kids start giving the bees
a school and how to share that information so that parents feel
TLC, and when you start caring for something, the fears dissipate.”
comfortable, and then, the staff and administration feel comfort-
able,” says Herrington. “We created a lot of information tools for
Honeybee grant applications will be open September 1–October 31,
that purpose, well before we could help put beehives in a school.
2017. For more information about the program and how to apply,
Just to get the schools ready for it.”
visit wholekidsfoundation.org and thebeecause.org
32
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Photography by Beth McCarty
Katelyn Thompson with an observation hive at Ashley Hall in Charleston, S.C.
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edible ANNIVERSARIES
THE POWER OF TEN BY E L I Z A B E T H W I N S LOW • P H OTO G RA P H Y BY D UST I N M EY E R
I
n 2006, Michael Pollan published “The Omnivore’s Dilemma: A Natural History of Four Meals.” It was a groundbreaking book that tackled the idea of rethinking the modern food sys-
tem, and it began with one simple question: What should we have for dinner? Ten years later, Austin certainly appears to have put some thought into what, and how, we eat. We now have a nationally recognized food scene, myriad farmers markets that outnumber days of the week, thriving urban farms and community gardens and locally focused restaurants springing up all over town. And without a doubt, important facets of these changes in Austin were nudged into motion by the way several people answered Pollan’s question a decade ago. This was Austin before the proliferation of “condo corridors,” when paddling was done seated—on Town Lake—and a “flight” was simply something taken out of, or into, ABIA. The way food was thought of, and sourced, was very different then, as well. But with a goal of helping Austinites see that they could eat responsibly, seasonally, sustainably and well with the foods grown in their own community—a bold and mostly unpracticed concept at that time, nationally—a handful of folks moved to the forefront of the cause. One caveat: There have been many local/sustainable-food supporters and providers working hard in Austin over the years. What follows is not meant to be an exhaustive compendium of the people, growers and businesses that have helped shuttle along the local/seasonal/sustainable food movement to fruition. We simply paused here with a few of those on the path who recently marked and celebrated their 10-year milestone and asked them to stop, look back and share the ways in which they’ve witnessed changes in our community’s relationship with, and perception of, local
“Storytelling has proven to be the most powerful
foods over the last decade.
and effective vehicle for
EDIBLE AUSTIN
us to support this vibrant
Edible Austin itself turns 10 this year, and Publisher Marla Camp says she’s felt a community embrace over the years. “I think it’s important to point out that when we started publishing in June 2007,” she says, “there were just a few forward-looking journalists covering the local and sustainable food community—most notably Virginia Wood, who was doing much of the heavy lifting on the food, farm 36
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and growing community.” —Marla Camp
“People are more educated about food now, and we live in a geographic area that can support a locavore diet yearround.” —Jesse Griffiths In the decade since, Dai Due has grown to include a pop-up butcher shop and café at the downtown SFC Farmers’ Market, The New School of Traditional Cookery, a cookbook and now a brick-and-mortar butcher shop and restaurant. The pop-up supper clubs may no longer be Dai Due’s main focus, but Griffiths’ menus still overflow with local abundance—meats, game, produce, vegetables, breads and baked goods—though he admits that sourcing has always been one of Dai Due’s biggest challenges, especially in the early days. “Ten years ago, I couldn’t get six chickens at the same time,” Griffiths says with a laugh. But now, a 500-pound order of jalapeños is no sweat. “People are more educated about food now, and we live in a geographic area that can support a locavore diet year-round,” he says. “Where else in the world can you get cabbage and bananas at the same time?” and farmer scene reporting for The Austin Chronicle. She definitely set a bar, and we really appreciated the ground she broke.”
GREEN GATE FARMS
“We weren’t sure what to expect when we launched,” Camp
Also just over a decade ago, Skip Connett and Erin Flynn re-
continues, “but we quickly discovered a warm, receptive and hungry
stored a historic farm site to create Green Gate Farms—a place to
community that was rich with stories to tell. In fact, storytelling
grow and sell locally raised, nourishing and healthy food to their
has proven to be the most powerful and effective vehicle for us
neighbors. Flash forward to today and the couple has shepherd-
to support this vibrant and growing community—focusing on the
ed the blossoming project from a farm stand and CSA program
passion, grit and spirit that motivates the people who care about
to farm camps for both children and adults and The New Farm
real food.”
Institute—a nonprofit that offers education, resources and inspi-
Of course, as in most businesses, the numbers also tell a story,
ration for aspiring farmers and is visited each year by more than
and Camp finds success, both on a personal and professional
1,000 volunteers, students and guests from around the world. Ten
level, with the growth of the magazine’s readership—an indicator
years in, Flynn sees great hope for the local food movement in the
to her that, over the last decade, Edible Austin’s mission has been
next generation. “Organic choices are becoming a family affair,
heard and understood. “Our first year, we printed 20,000 maga-
with children increasingly leading the way,” she says. “During our
zines per quarterly issue and reached 280,000 readers,” she says.
farm camps and field trips, kids are eager to discuss non-GMO in-
“I’m proud to say we currently print 40,000 issues, six times a
gredients, seasonal recipes and alternative cooking methods like
year, cover 28 counties and reach approximately 840,000 readers,
our sun ovens. We’re inspired by their enthusiasm for informed,
annually. Keeping up with the demand is a challenge that we are
honest choices and their passionate support of our farm, their
very grateful to have.”
school gardens and organic initiatives. We can hardly wait until this generation has their own spending money!”
DAI DUE Ten years ago, in East Austin, Jesse Griffiths and his wife and
JOHNSON’S BACKYARD GARDEN
business partner, Tamara Mayfield, decided to host a modest sup-
Back in 2006, after farming in his small urban backyard for two
per club featuring only local foods. They set a communal table at
years, Brenton Johnson and his wife, Beth, began a CSA program
a private home and spread the word among friends and acquain-
to provide weekly organic produce to about 30 Austin families.
tances. At the first Dai Due dinner, 13 people sat down, family-style,
Now delivering to more than 1,000 families in Austin and beyond,
to a BYOB feast of smoky grilled Texas quail with decadent rose-
Johnson’s Backyard Garden (JBG) also has a thriving wholesale
mary-infused roasted butternut squash, and a legend was born.
business and participates in 14 weekly farmers’ markets. Johnson EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM
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“Organic choices are becoming a family affair, with children increasingly leading the way.... We can hardly wait until this generation has their own spending money!” —Erin Flynn
says he’s seen huge changes in people’s perception of local food
workers and residents that throng downtown. “Over the past de-
and growers over the years. “If you’re opening a top-end restau-
cade, the bar has been, and continues to be, raised for freshness,
rant in Austin,” he says, “it’s almost a given that you’re going to
variety, organic and, of course, local products,” says Scariano. “So
employ some farm-to-table elements. Diners expect these restau-
many products have gone artisanal—from peanut butter to sodas
rants to source locally. Go into a restaurant like Emmer & Rye,
to chips. We keep pace by constantly updating our product mix,
Dai Due, Odd Duck or Chicon, and you can see half a dozen farms
particularly our prepared foods.”
on the menu. This is definitely representative of an attitude—or perhaps values—shift!”
Royal Blue Grocery’s growth is a big indicator as to how they’ve been received over the years. “We started with our first tiny thou-
Johnson admits that his current dream is that everyone—
sand-square-foot store and now have five more larger Royal Blue
whether they be a home cook, a Michelin-starred chef or anything
Grocery stores,” says Scariano. “To us, it’s not worth expanding
in between—could have a strong relationship with their food pro-
if we can’t get each store just right for the long haul. That means
ducers. “I recently attended the Slow Food International confer-
getting to know all of our customers’ needs and then exceeding
ence in Italy, which emphasized the importance of local foods as
them. We’re not interested in cookie cutter Royal Blues, but rath-
a vital part of every community’s culture,” he says. “In Italy, most
er adapting each store to each nook of downtown. For us, each
cities have markets every single day, all around town. These mar-
new store is a puzzle to figure out and we love it!”
kets aren’t just a place to pick up juicy tomatoes or fresh bread. People really talk with the farmers and vendors. Community
So, after this last decade, what should we have for dinner, Mr.
members learn about producers’ practices and producers learn
Pollan? And what have we learned? Those featured here might
about their community’s needs. These are important relation-
say we’ve learned that interest and passion in the mission have
ships, because food isn’t just about nourishment; it’s about mem-
continued to grow, and that consumers have become much more
ory, community, family, comfort, security, excitement. I’d love to
savvy to our local grower community as well as more demanding
see Austin have farmers markets seven days a week where we
about what’s on their plate. That over the years, Austinites have
foster that kind of connection.”
and will continue to put their money where their mouths are. Also, that the next generation appears to be picking up the torch. “Sometimes I worry that the idea of farm-to-table is passé,” says
ROYAL BLUE GROCERY Even on the urban streets of Austin, big changes in local foods
Dai Due’s Tamara Mayfield. “But any time I feel anxious, the new
were afoot a decade ago. George Scariano and his business part-
generation of Millennials that works for us reignites that passion.
ner, Craig Staley, looked at downtown Austin in 2005 and real-
They’re more balanced in their ideology. Maybe they’re less rev-
ized there were no pocket bodega-style stores ready to cater to
olutionary, but on the other hand, they all get together on their
our city’s growing population in the urban core. So in 2006, they
days off to butcher a hog or go foraging. I love that—for them—
opened the first Royal Blue Grocery offering convenience items,
this is just how the world is.”
groceries and grab-and-go food to the teeming multitudes of 38
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Cheers to the next 10 years and beyond.
“If you’re opening a top-end restaurant in Austin, it’s almost a given that you’re going to employ some farm-to-table elements. Diners expect these restaurants to source locally.” —Brenton Johnson
“Over the past decade, the bar has been, and continues to be, raised for freshness, variety, organic and, of course, local products,” —George Scariano EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM
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40
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farmers DIARY
COMANCHE OAKS BY L AU RA C H E R RY • P H OTO G RA P H Y BY PAU L I N E ST EV E N S
L
eon Caldwell, owner of Comanche Oaks farm in La Grange,
A fellow vendor pops by to ask about some champagne grapes
has been in the farming business since 1987 and has the
(Caldwell is quick to point out that he has a reputation as a per-
proud distinction of being one of the first certified organic
son willing to grow anything). Indeed, the moringa he grows on
farmers in Texas. Legend has it that the land he farms is the spot
his farm—the oil of which he cold-extracts from the seeds—came
where—following the 1840 Battle of Plum Creek near Lockhart—a
from a bag of seeds brought to him from Africa by a Senegalese
Comanche warrior named Hoomtaka, wounded by Matthew
doctor friend. All over Africa, and in many countries where mor-
Caldwell’s troops, made his way down the Colorado river to a
inga grows native, the plant is known as the “tree of life.” Its me-
cabin on the banks. He sought shelter at the door of Leon Caldwell’s
dicinal properties are myriad and legendary, from the reduction
great-great-grandmother, who was newly widowed with an infant.
of cholesterol to helping control diabetes. It’s known to help mod-
She could have easily shot him with the rifle she held in her hands
erate blood sugar, reduce inflammation and contains many anti-
when she answered the door, but she let him in and helped him
oxidants. Caldwell’s trees grow to an average of 15 feet, as they
heal instead. The two ultimately fell in love and began a family of
freeze back in the winter and return in the spring, but in Africa,
their own. This unexpected love story was the inspiration behind
they can be 50 feet tall. He recommends the oil for hair growth
the name of Caldwell’s farm, and today, he’s carrying on that spirit
and skin health among its many other benefits, and has several
of expecting the unexpected.
customers massaging it into their scalps before the day is out.
On a drizzly Saturday morning in February, Caldwell’s not at the
Caldwell’s honey seems to be the most popular item du jour,
farm but manning his booth at the Barton Creek Farmers Market. He
though, with the first customer purchasing three quart-size jars.
has no vegetables to offer today, but his table is nonetheless stacked
He sells wildflower and clover honey, and offers tastings of each.
with abundance: jars of honey and bee pollen, green bottles of oil
The clover has a mild, fresh taste, while the wildflower has a
from the subtropical, multi-beneficial Moringa oleifera plant and lit-
deeper, darker sweetness. At a recent market, when he had a fresh
tle jars of a specialty night cream made with a carefully extracted red
batch of hibiscus flowers, he sold jars of honey mixed with the
algae gene—all unusual items you don’t see every day at a market.
petals, giving it a tangy flair. He grows Hibiscus sabdariffa, also EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM
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Sunny days deserve fresh cut cheeses
known as “Jamaica,” the most popular type grown for tea. In addition to honey, he sells pollen collected by the bees of his own hives as well as from his friends’ and neighbors’ hives. It’s a sort of consortium, he explains. The bees come from Roy Weaver in Navasota, the hives from a local cabinetmaker and the honey is
Visit AntonellisCheese.com to reserve your picnic basket
processed by Sanford Schmid, a pillar of the Fayetteville community who’s been keeping bees since the 1920s. “The pollen is good for allergies,” Caldwell explains to a customer. “Knocks ’em dead in a day. A teaspoonful on an empty stomach every morning will keep allergies at bay and is chock-full of nutrients and minerals. You can live on bee pollen and water.”
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Caldwell also grows a strain of Bavarian chamomile that he’s cultivated over the last 15 years or so. He bought the best seed he could find from Germany and planted it on his farm. It all died with the first frost, but one plant came back in the spring, and he kept sowing the seeds of the successful plants until he had it popping up all over the farm. He now sells the flowers at market, along with blessed thistle, when available. “Together,” he says, “they make a tea that will cure just about anything that ails you.” One of his newer projects is the night cream, which consists of a red algae genome in a base of shea butter and coconut oil. The algae is a type that grows in extreme conditions—enduring intense heat, cold, ultraviolet rays and rough, rocky seas. In response to nature’s brutality, the algae evolved and developed a gene called Porphyridium purpureum, which serves to protect the plant. He sells the night cream in partnership with a company called AlgEternal out of Weimar, Texas. Caldwell raised five children on his farm, all of whom are either in college or have begun their own careers. These days he gets up with the dog about an hour before dawn and does the things you’d expect: planting, harvesting, fixing equipment and
Turquoise p o t t e r y
packing for the markets. He stays abreast of the latest plant and herbal news, and has a thirst for knowledge and a natural curiosity about life. He says the farm life suits him. Perhaps that’s because it runs in his blood. Look for Leon Caldwell at the Barton Creek Farmers Market on Saturdays, the Lone Star Farmers Market in Bee Cave on Sundays and soon, the HOPE Farmers Market on Sundays in East Austin. For more information, visit comancheoaks.com or call 979-530-8309.
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edible DIVES
DONN’S DEPOT BY ST EV E W I LSO N • P H OTO G RA P H Y BY N AT H A N B E E LS
T
he country song they’ll eventually write about Donn’s Depot will have to include a verse or two about the popcorn machine. It’s the kind of beaten-up, industrial contraption with grease stains burned into the glass and an eternal layer of powdery, yellow dregs at the bottom that somehow keeps you coming back for more. It stands in a commanding central spot alongside the blazing “TouchTunes” jukebox and the rows of stainless-steel pull knobs on the cigarette machine. Donn Adelman, owner of the Depot—and its longest-running performer—has one simple rule about the popcorn: “We only make it once a day and when we’re out, we’re out.”
This pretty much sums up the spirit of Donn’s Depot—a place that’s delivered the same goods without any fancy extras since it opened in the ’70s. The idea of a dive-y piano bar with a railroad theme stopped making sense in modern Austin a long time ago, but everybody who comes here is just fine with that. The older crowd of regulars shows up early out of habit and the younger set trickles in later out of curiosity. On any given night, it doesn’t take long for a smartly dressed senior to tip his cowboy hat before asking a woman young enough to be his granddaughter for a dance. Soon enough, everybody in the place follows suit and the dance floor is packed.
“We’re not Sixth Street,” says Adelman, sitting at a beersticky table one recent afternoon. The Depot’s neon beer signs and lights are off right now, and a “Knight Rider” rerun plays full blast on the big-screen TV under the massive chandelier. The sun visiting through the windows shows every nick and scratch in the wood paneling while mismatched furniture languishes here and there, looking a bit exhausted from the weight of use and history. Adelman’s here to go over receipts from last night before his daily run to the bank—if there’s any actual cash to take, that is. “Credit cards,” he says, shaking his head. Growing up in Austin, Adelman played accordion until he bought a piano for $75 at age 16. With a repertoire of country classics, lounge standards and ’50s rock ’n’ roll hits under his belt buckle, he performed at various clubs around town, including McNeil Depot Saloon, which opened in 1972 in the shell of a relocated train depot. The railcar for extra seating and the caboose that would become the beloved ladies restroom and powder room/conversation space originated down the line in San Antonio and were added a few years later. Adelman bought the place in 1978 and renamed it after himself—quitting his day job in the tire biz a year later. “I guess I’d always wanted to own a night club,” he says with a wry smile. “I don’t know why.”
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In the ensuing years, the Depot has endured rent hikes and changing tastes as the surrounding neighborhood, like much of Austin, continues to be derailed by condos and growth. The years between 1986 and 1998 were especially lean, says Adelman, but he’s survived by not messing with the formula. He’s kept the drinks cheap and defiantly simple and the music good and reliable. With
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“If it ain’t broke, don’t break it” as his motto, he’s only made a few changes here and there, like a roof for the outdoor smoking lounge and a drink discount for all Austin restaurant and bar workers. Christmas has become a big deal at the Depot in recent years, and finds the place awash in lights and reasonably priced Yuletide cocktails. Nevertheless, the rent isn’t getting any cheaper. “You try to roll with the flow,” he says. “And sometimes, the flow is like the droughts in Austin…there ain’t no flow.” Still, Adelman has held on longer than most of the old-guard institution owners in Austin, all while keeping some employees for as long as 25 years. And he’s proud of the history—he likes to tell the story about the time George Strait hopped on stage for a set when his piano player was holding his wedding reception at the Depot. A few years later, Strait recognized Adelman in the audience when they were both playing different gigs in Vegas. Adelman still plays at the Depot at least once a week (“I’m not a great artist but I’ve been here the longest, so I get to play.”) and packs the other nights with familiar faces who, like him, are usually happy to play requests. Adelman himself even put out an album called “Requests” in 1987 that he sells at the bar when he remembers to burn a few copies off his computer. At the same
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time, he’s not shy about turning down newer music that, as he says, “passed me by.” “I get constant requests for Billy Joel and Elton John,” he says with another smile. “They don’t do my music and I don’t do theirs.” Visit donnsdepot.com or call 512-478-0336 for more information.
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cooking FRESH
THE GREAT TARTINE
BY Z AC K N O RT H C U T T • P H OTO G RA P H Y BY J E N N A N O RT H C U T T
T
he word “tartine” stems from the French word tarte, which is a baked pastry that’s usually sweet and often involves apples. But most know a tartine as basically an open-faced
sandwich that can run the gamut from savory to sweet. I guess that begs the question, though: What is a sandwich? In 2006, two competing restaurants in the same building in Shrewsbury, Massachusetts,
TWO NOT-SO-PLAIN-JANE TARTINES For the most basic and simple tartine, you can’t go wrong with an untoasted, sliced on a bias, fresh baguette. Top one side with a generous swipe of good butter, then pile on thin slices of prosciutto—simple, delicious and timeless.
went to court over a noncompete clause in their leases. The U.S. courts ruled that a sandwich must include two slices of bread. So…is a tartine a sandwich? I guess not. But is it delicious? Yes! Served all around the world—for breakfast, lunch, dinner and snacks—these tasty concoctions are everywhere, and the possibilities are endless. Of course, the French didn’t invent this sliced bread plus toppings formula. In the Middle Ages, “trenchers” were common and recognized as bread cut in half and loaded with food. They were used as large serving platters during banquets and formal meals—the bread acting as a type of disposable dinnerware that could be consumed by the diner. There were also bread slices topped with butter and dried meats being served in taverns throughout the Netherlands. This was observed long before Europe’s so-called “sandwiches” came to be (evolving from the fourth Earl of Sandwich, who didn’t want to get his cards dirty while playing cribbage so he had his valet place meat between slices of bread). Even bruschetta, a tartine cousin, goes back to ancient Rome. The Italian term bruscare refers to roasting over coals. Olive growers would toast bread while pressing their olives, then use the bread to sample the oil. Although this term only refers to the bread, you can see how things were starting to shape up. Top the fire-toasted bread with local fare and you have the now-beloved bruschetta, which you can find on many menus across America. Another great example of an open-faced sandwich from history is a Welsh rarebit—the earliest mention of it going back to 1725, but spelled “Welsh rabbit,” which is bizarre, because it’s difficult to find a recipe that actually has rabbit in it. In the 1747 cookbook, “The Art of Cookery Made Plain and Easy,” author Hannah Glasse has a few great recipes for the dish. Some of my favorite instructions include “pour a glass of red wine over toasted bread, cover it thick with cheese and then brown it with a hot shovel.” The Danish dish smørrebrød, comes from smø og brød or “bread and butter.” Rugbrød, a dark rye sourdough-style bread, is a staple in Danish households; large meals with multiple courses were said to have all been served, tartine-like, on that bread—each guest building a plate with seasonal toppings. Many fresh vegetables, as well as cured fish and meats, can be found in smørrebrød recipes. Not to be outdone, America also contributed a dish to the tartine family. Maybe you’ve heard of S.O.S.? “Shit on a Shingle?” “Stew on a Shingle?” Or my favorite: “Save Our Stomachs.” This dish was made famous by the U.S. military during WWII, and usually consisted of chipped beef on toasted white bread covered in cream gravy. Bread, spreads, meats and garnishes have evolved differently in every culture, but they all have some things in common: Take a quality piece of bread, slather on a rich and fatty spread, then top it with some cured meats or vegetables. Literally, anything goes with a
Or for a refreshing and crisp tartine, start with thin-sliced
tartine. If you serve a tartine in small, bite-size pieces you have hors
baguette toasted long and low to dry out the bread. Gener-
d’oeuvres, if you offer a large slice of bread with cheese and eggs,
ously spread the pieces with Pure Luck Dairy’s June’s Joy,
that’s breakfast, and if you choose fresh fruit and sweet cheese on
then add thinly sliced pears, a drizzle of local honey, a twist
bread, that’s a great dessert. These ideas serve two and then some.
or two from the pepper mill and fresh basil leaves for garnish. EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM
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BRUSCHETTA-INSPIRED TOMATO, ARTICHOKE AND SHRIMP TARTINE For this one, I like to start by cutting thick slices of ciabatta bread. Brush both inside slices with olive oil and grill them so they get nice and charred. Take a half clove of garlic and rub the charred sides of the bread. Top with a mixture of roasted tomatoes and artichoke hearts dressed with a touch of red wine vinegar, then finish with some grilled shrimp.
WELSH RAREBIT-INSPIRED TARTINE A hearty walnut bread will pair well here with the wine and heavy cheese. Place the sliced bread on a sheet tray, then lightly brush the bread with red wine—just enough to moisten but not to soak. Quadrello di Bufala is a water buffalo cheese from Italy that melts great; a few thick slices on each piece will do. Place the bread under the broiler and let it roast until the cheese is golden brown and bubbly. Garnish with chopped rosemary to complement the well-roasted cheese. (At this point, if you add a fried egg on top, you’ve just made what’s known as a “Golden Buck.”)
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SMØRREBRØD-INSPIRED TARTINE For this one, start with sliced and toasted rye bread, then generously spread each slice with Kunik, a triple cream cheese from Nettle Meadows. Top with high-quality smoked salmon and thinly shaved radish. Another great garnish for this would be a hard-boiled egg that’s been chilled and peeled. Separate the white from the yolk then take a small, wide-mesh strainer and pass the yolks and whites through the mesh separately. Sprinkle each on top of the tartine. Picked dill is a great final touch.
A FANCIED-UP S.O.S.-INSPIRED TARTINE First, make a quick Mornay sauce by sautéing a chopped onion with 2 tablespoons of butter. Once the onions are translucent, add in 2 tablespoons of flour. When the mixture thickens, add a cup of milk. As the milk begins to simmer, it will thicken. Turn the heat down to low and add a cup of grated gruyere—stirring until it melts and is smooth. To serve, lay thinly shaved pastrami on a thick slice of toasted sourdough, then pour the Mornay on top. Top with chopped chives and sprinkle with paprika. Sourcing note: Bread used in these recipes is from Easy Tiger Bake Shop & Beer Garden and the cheeses may all be found at Antonelli’s Cheese Shop. EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM
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edible UPDATE
HEALTHY FOOD PROGRAMS
D
espite
Austin’s
rapid
champion Oran Hesterman) to
growth,
explore options for bringing
over 200,000 of our
its successful Double Up Food
neighbors lack reliable access to
Bucks program into grocery
affordable, nutritious food—in-
stores and small retail out-
cluding 20 percent of children
lets in Austin. The program
in Travis County. However,
is a national model—active in
Austin’s Food Policy Manag-
nearly 20 states—that helps
er Edwin Marty and Sarah
low-income Americans bring
Stein-Lobovits of Austin Public
home more healthy food while
Health—along with a diverse
supporting
group of community organi-
and growing local economies.
zations and stakeholders—are
Double Up Food Bucks allows
working hard to change that.
recipients of SNAP (former-
economic
After more than a year of exhaustive research, analysis
family
farmers
ly known as food stamps) to double their benefits when
and coordination, Marty and Stein-Lobovits presented the “Aus-
they buy fresh, locally grown fruits and vegetables at participating
tin Healthy Food Access Initiative” report to City Council in July
grocery stores, corner stores and farmers markets. While so-called
of 2016. The report outlines a systems approach to tackling Aus-
SNAP incentive programs have existed for over a decade, the strate-
tin’s food-access challenges and steers clear of simple solutions.
gy gained prominence in 2014 when a bipartisan group in Congress
According to Marty, “Food insecurity is an exceptionally complex
created the Food Insecurity Nutrition Incentive (FINI) Program—a
challenge because it involves getting to the root causes of multiple
competitive grant program administered by the U.S. Department
overlapping issues. Any comprehensive solution has to address a
of Agriculture (USDA) to support state and local SNAP incentive
diverse range of issues head-on, from agricultural production to
programs. According to research conducted by the Farmers Market
food processing and distribution, to education, to affordable hous-
Coalition (FMC), a national coalition representing America’s 8,600
ing and safer sidewalks. Good public policy can’t treat these issues
farmers markets, during FINI’s first year the program was responsi-
in isolation.”
ble for 20 to 40 million additional servings of fruits and vegetables
Stein-Lobovits, who served in Teach for America in the Rio
for SNAP households at farmers markets alone.
Grande Valley before pursuing a career in public health, agrees
Here in Austin, the Sustainable Food Center (SFC) runs a simi-
with Marty and highlights that the City of Austin wants to create an
lar incentive project, SFC Double Dollars, at local farmers markets,
economically sustainable solution. “We don’t want to create a situ-
farm stands, and mobile markets with funding from private foun-
ation in which fresh, healthy food is seen as a luxury item driving
dations and the City of Austin. Fair Food Network is assisting the
costs higher in middle and more working-class neighborhoods,”
City in exploring how to expand this program so that it both sup-
she says. “We want to create business opportunities and improve
ports local farmers and increases the buying power for lower-in-
community health by helping existing businesses—corner stores,
come communities in the places where they already shop. While
grocery stores and farm stands—succeed. We even want to create
multi-year large cohort studies of FINI are ongoing, 80 percent of
new business opportunities for farmers and food businesses. We
participants in California’s Market Match program—an incentive
see our work as intersecting health, economic development and
program that began in 2009—report that their family’s health has
food policy. Targeted and well-planned policies can accomplish
improved because of the program. “By increasing the purchasing
goals on multiple fronts.”
power of SNAP, shoppers keep money in the local economy,” says
Beginning in 2017, the City is teaming up with the Fair Food Net-
Kate Fitzgerald, advisor for Fair Food Network. “SNAP incentives
work (a Michigan-based organization spearheaded by organic food
create economic demand for fresh fruits and vegetables in low-in-
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Photography courtesy of Sustainable Food Center
BY A L E X CA N E PA
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come communities where grocery stores and farmers markets haven’t been able to turn a profit. It’s a market-based solution in which the incentive works both ways—SNAP shoppers are incentivized to buy fresh local produce while food retailers and farmers are drawn by the profit motive to expand to traditionally underserved
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markets.” Texas farmers face a host of challenges—from a famously punishing climate to cheap produce imports from Mexico and California. According to a recent report published by the USDA, Texas lags far behind other states in local food sales. In 2015, Texas
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trends hold, Texas will soon be overtaken by Vermont (population 626,000) for sixth in the nation in total farm-direct sales. Marty and Stein-Lobovits believe that creating new markets and business opportunities for Texas farmers and health-food retailers in Austin must be central to the City’s food policy work. To that end, the City of Austin’s Office of Sustainability is leading a coordinated strategy in conjunction with the largest food-buying institutions in Austin (the school district, the University of Texas and the COA Convention Center, with other institutions possibly joining soon) to collectively advance its Good Food Purchasing Program (GFPP). The goal of GFPP is to aggregate institutional demand for food that is sourced from local sustainable farmers, support fair labor practices and animal welfare, and provide the community with highly nutritious meals. In addition, the City is coordinating with SFC, Farmshare Austin, GAVA (Go Austin!/Vamos Austin!) and other agriculture and food organizations to implement Fresh for Less, alternative food access programs such as mobile markets, farm stands and corner stores. Fresh for Less helps communities across the “eastern crescent” of Austin access nutritious and affordable locally produced food. Farmshare—a nonprofit organization located on a 10-acre certified-organic farm in eastern Travis County that focuses on accelerating organic farming knowledge—made headlines recently when it partnered with H-E-B after the grocery store giant recently purchased land in Austin’s Del Valle neighborhood. Farmshare plans to work with H-E-B to further its three-part mission of educating the next generation of farmers, providing fresh, locally grown produce to food-insecure Austinites, and caring for the land. “The work that Farmshare Austin is doing is phenomenal,” says Stein-Lobovits. “They’re growing in a deliberate way to tackle both the production and supply sides of food access in Central Texas.” Marty and Stein-Lobovits emphasize the economic development dimension of the City of Austin’s work on food-access issues. “We want to keep as much of the money that the City Council appropriated for food access in the Austin foodshed as possible,” says Marty. “If we have the opportunity to generate real income for Texas farmers and Austin food businesses while simultaneously addressing food insecurity, that’s the kind of comprehensive and sustainable solution the City of Austin is looking for.” Find a list of healthy food program resources and contact information as well as farm stand and mobile market locations and schedules at edibleaustin.com EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM
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edible BOOKS
BREAKFAST IN TEXAS BY T E R RY T H O M PSO N -A N D E RSO N • P H OTO G RA P H Y BY SA N DY W I LSO N Excerpted from “Breakfast in Texas: Recipes for Elegant Brunches, Down-Home Classics, and Local Favorites,” by Terry Thompson-Anderson, with photos by Sandy Wilson (University of Texas Press, 2017). For more info visit utexaspress.com
T
exans love the morning meal, whether it’s bacon and eggs
brunch tables. The first Texas cookbook dedicated exclusively to the
(often eaten in a breakfast taco) or something as distinctively
morning meal, “Breakfast in Texas” gathers nearly one hundred reci-
nontraditional as saag paneer omelets, pon haus or goat curry.
pes that range from perfectly prepared classics, to the breakfast foods
A Lone Star breakfast can be a time for eating healthy, or for indulging
of our regional cuisines (Southern, Mexican, German, Czech, Indian
in decadent food and drink, and with Texas’ rich regional and cultural
and Asian among them), to stand-out dishes from the state’s estab-
diversity, an amazing variety of dishes graces the state’s breakfast and
lished and rising chefs and restaurants. Here is a sampling!
BILL VARNEY’S LEMON-ROSE MARTINI Makes 1 drink Bill Varney founded the Fredericksburg Herb Farm in 1985. He sold this legendary Hill Country destination in 2007 and created URBANHerbal, a wonderful herbal haven adjacent to the original herb farm property. Bill is always creating unique herbal- or flower-oriented things to eat and drink. This luscious martini is a great example. ½ oz. Texas-made vodka ½ oz. Thatcher’s Organic Artisan Liqueur 3 drops rose flower water ¼ t. fresh-squeezed lemon juice 1 oz. rose simple syrup (see recipe below) 1 lemon peel strip (with no white pith) Pink or red rose petal Combine first 5 ingredients in a cocktail shaker with ice. Shake vigorously until icy cold. Run the lemon around the rim of a martini glass, then twist it over the glass and drop it in. Strain the martini into the glass and serve, garnished with a floating rose petal. Rose Simple Syrup Makes 1½ cups 1 c. extra-fine granulated sugar 4 oz. organic red rose petals 1 c. distilled water Juice of 1 lemon In a food processor, grind the sugar and the rose petals until the mixture is finely ground with beautiful rose specks. In a small saucepan, bring the water and the rose sugar to a boil and immediately reduce to a simmer. Add the lemon juice and stir until dissolved. Allow to cool. Bottle and store in the refrigerator for up to a month. 54
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ST. CHARLES BAY CRAB CAKES AND POACHED EGGS ON FRIED GREEN TOMATOES WITH ORANGE-GINGER HOLLANDAISE SAUCE Serves 8 For the crab cakes: 1 lb. jumbo lump crabmeat 1 large egg 1 t. Worcestershire sauce 1 T. Creole mustard 1 T. minced Italian flat-leaf parsley Juice of ½ lemon 1 T. Chef Paul Prudhomme’s Seafood Magic seasoning 1 c. mayonesa (lime-flavored mayonnaise) 3 green onions, chopped, including green tops ½ c. finely chopped green bell pepper /3 c. finely crushed Ritz crackers 1 stick unsalted butter and ½ c. vegetable oil for sautéing 2
For the fried green tomatoes: 3 large green tomatoes, sliced into ½-in.thick slices 2 c. all-purpose flour 2 t. each of sea salt and freshly ground black pepper ¼ t. cayenne pepper 2 large eggs, well beaten with 1 c. whole buttermilk (not low-fat) 1 c. panko bread crumbs tossed with 1 c. yellow cornmeal and 1½ T. Chef Paul Prudhomme’s Vegetable Magic seasoning Vegetable oil for pan-frying For the orange-ginger hollandaise sauce: 1 T. dry white wine 1 t. minced orange zest ½ c. freshly squeezed orange juice 1 T. minced pickled (sushi) ginger 1 medium shallot, minced 1 t. whole coriander seeds toasted and minced 1 fresh thyme sprig 4 egg yolks Juice of ½ lemon 1 T. Creole mustard, or substitute another whole-grain mustard ½ t. sea salt Scant ¼ t. cayenne pepper 1 c. (2 sticks) hot melted unsalted butter Begin by making the crab cakes. Carefully pick through the crabmeat to remove any bits of shell or cartilage; take care not to break up those beautiful lumps! Set aside. In a large bowl, combine the egg, Worcestershire sauce, mustard, parsley, lemon juice, Seafood Magic and mayonesa. Whisk to blend well. Add the green onions, bell pepper and crushed crackers; stir to incorporate. Gently fold in the crabmeat, distributing all ingredients evenly. Form the crab mixture into 8 cakes, patting them tightly in your hands. Place on a parchment-lined baking sheet, cover loosely with parchment and refrigerate until ready to cook. To fry the crab cakes, melt the butter in a heavy-bottomed skillet over medium heat; stir in the oil to blend well. Add the crab cakes (in batches if needed), taking care not to crowd the pan. Fry the cakes for about 3 to 5 minutes per side, turning once, or until golden brown and firmly cooked. Keep warm in a low oven. Note: The crab cakes can be made ahead of time and reheated in the oven until warmed through. To make the fried green tomatoes, place the sliced tomatoes on a plate
lined with paper towels to drain off excess moisture. Toss together the flour, salt, pepper and cayenne in a shallow baking dish, blending well. Heat ½-inch of oil in a heavy-bottomed, preferably cast-iron, skillet over medium heat. When ready to fry the tomatoes, dredge them first in the seasoned flour, coating well and shaking off all excess, then in the egg wash, coating well. Give the tomato slices a final dredge in the panko/cornmeal/Vegetable Magic mixture, patting the panko into both sides of the slices. Gently shake off excess. Fry the tomato slices in the hot oil for about 2 to 3 minutes per side, turning once, or until golden brown. Drain on a wire rack set over a baking sheet. Keep warm. To make the orange-ginger hollandaise sauce, combine the white wine, orange zest and juice, ginger, shallot, toasted coriander seeds and thyme sprig in a small, heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium heat. Cook the mixture, stirring often, until the liquid is well infused with the flavors and reduced by half. Strain the mixture through a fine-meshed wire strainer into a small bowl, pressing down to remove all liquid; set aside. Discard the solids left in the strainer. In the work bowl of a food processor fitted with a steel blade, combine the infusion liquid, egg yolks, lemon juice, mustard, salt and cayenne pepper. Process until the mixture is thickened and lemon-yellow in color, about 4 minutes. Stop and scrape down the sides of the bowl. With the machine running, slowly add the hot melted butter through the feed tube until all has been added. Continue to process for another minute to form a strong emulsion. Transfer to a bowl and cover with plastic wrap to keep warm. Whisk just before serving. To assemble the dish, place a slice of fried green tomato on each serving plate. Top each with a crab cake, then a poached egg [see recipe at edibleaustin.com]. Drizzle the warm orange-ginger hollandaise sauce over each portion, allowing the sauce to ooze onto the plate a bit. Scatter a few pieces of sliced green onion over the tops and serve immediately. EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM
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BRUNCH BISCUITS WITH PAULA’S TEXAS LEMON BUTTER Makes 16 (2-inch) biscuits For the biscuits: 2 c. all-purpose flour ½ t. sea salt 1 T. plus 1 t. baking powder ¾ c. (½ stick) well-chilled unsalted butter, cut into ½-in. cubes 1 c. whole buttermilk (not low-fat) Additional ½ c. (1 stick) unsalted butter, melted For Paula’s Texas Lemon butter: 1 c. sugar ½ c. (1 stick) unsalted butter, cut into 2-in. cubes ½ t. grated lemon zest 2 T. Paula’s Texas Lemon Liqueur
European
Savory Sweet
Begin by making the lemon butter. With the steel blade in place in the work bowl of a food processor, add the sugar and process until superfine. Add the butter cubes and process until well blended, stopping to scrape down the sides of the bowl once or twice. Add the lemon zest and liqueur. Process until smooth and well blended. Pack into small ramekins and refrigerate, tightly covered with plastic wrap, until ready to serve. Soften before serving to make it easy to slather on the biscuits!
Crepes
3103 S. Lamar Blvd crepecrazy.com
To make the biscuits, sift together the flour, salt and baking powder in a large bowl. Dump in the butter cubes and work into the flour mixture using your fingertips or a pastry blender, until the mixture resembles coarse meal. Add about ¾ of a cup of the buttermilk and stir to form a cohesive dough, taking care not to overwork the dough. Add the remaining buttermilk, if needed, to form a soft, shaggy, ever-so-slightly sticky dough. Turn out onto a lightly floured work surface and knead about 12 times to bring the dough together. Roll out into a rectangle about ¼-inch thick. Using a pastry brush, brush half of the surface of the dough with a portion of the melted butter. Fold the unbuttered side over onto the buttered side, lining up the edges precisely. Roll the dough out again into a ¼-inch-thick rectangle and repeat the buttering. Repeat 4 more times for a total of 6 turns. Wrap the dough in plastic wrap and refrigerate for 1 hour.
T SIDE NEW EAS N AT LOCATIO TH ST. 1629 E. 6
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Heat the oven to 425° and line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Roll the refrigerated dough out to ½-inch thickness. Using a sharp 2-inch biscuit cutter and a firm downward cut (no twisting), cut the dough into rounds. Place the biscuits on the prepared baking sheet and bake for about 10 minutes, or until golden brown and puffy. Serve hot with ramekins of softened Paula’s Texas Lemon butter.
“BREAKFAST IN TEXAS” AT BOOK PEOPLE GRAB & GO • LUNCH SPECIALS GROCERY • BEER & WINE BREAKFAST TACOS • ESPRESSO PATIO SEATING
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Six Locations Near You!
Join Edible Austin on Thursday, June 22 at 7 p.m., as we co-host Terry Thompson-Anderson and Sandy Wilson to talk about their book and share their culinary adventures. We will also feature tastings and drinks from the book.
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edible VITICULTURE
CHASING THE SILVER BULLET BY RUSS E L L K A N E
A
t the Salt Lick’s Pecan Grove building in Driftwood, we sat at no-frills, classroom-like tables set with wine glasses. Our tasting leader, U.C. Davis professor Andrew Walker,
was the featured speaker at a full-day workshop and tasting organized by Jim Kamas, Texas A&M professor and Texas AgriLife Extension coordinator. “These are likely the most expensive wines you’ve ever tasted,” said Walker as he began. The bottles were not adorned with prestigious labels, but still, the room full of Texas grape growers and winemakers attentively swirled and sipped. The wines in our tasting were indeed special (and costly) because they were products of more than 20 years of U.C. Davis field studies, genetic testing and research. They were made from grapes that were—based on genetics—produced by Vitis vinifera vines. They had,
Andrew Walker talks about his research among the vines. lings that showed positive in the gene for PD-resistance.
however, a strategically placed gene from Vitis arizonica—a grape-
Repeating this technique allowed Walker to increase the
vine native to Texas, the southwestern United States and Mexico that
amount of vinifera genetic material in the seedlings to 75 percent,
offers a natural resistance to Pierce’s Disease (PD), a disease that’s
88 percent and 94 percent, while still retaining the anti-PD trait.
long plagued many vineyards in Texas. The interest of the tasters was
His premise was that as the vinifera content of his grape varieties
immediately piqued, because Vitis vinifera vines are highly suscep-
increased, his selected PD-resistant seedlings would eventually at-
tible to PD caused by Xylella fastidiosa (Xf), a bacterium spread by
tain wine characteristics more like commercial wines.
plant-sucking insects like our own native glassy-winged sharpshooter.
Walker could readily test for the gene for PD-resistance resulting
Texas winegrowers have long awaited a “silver bullet” in the
from a single gene. However, the only way he could confirm some-
battle against PD, where devastation from this scourge has been
thing complex like wine quality was through the time-consuming
recorded as far back as the 1800s. Immigrant farmers often brought
process of growing his seedlings to vines, harvesting grapes, making
European grapevines with them, but these vines usually died
wine and having knowledgeable tasters evaluate the wines.
within a few years, forcing settlers to make lesser-quality wines
Impressions from our group’s tasters were resoundingly favor-
from native grapes. Since the 1980s, when growing European wine
able—attesting that Walker’s wines had distinct vinifera character-
grapes in Texas started as a serious endeavor, PD has remained a
istics. “The reason why I came here is that I want to get hooked up
major barrier to pursuing Vitis vinifera in East Texas and along the
so I can plant these new varieties,” said Messina Hof Winery founder,
Gulf Coast. In the Hill Country, many vineyards were lost to PD
and tasting participant, Paul Bonarrigo. “My vineyard in Bryan is in
before vineyard practices and pesticides were found to keep PD at
high-risk PD country and I’m currently limited to PD-tolerant hybrid
bay; however, most consider these measures only a temporary fix.
grapes like Lenoir and blanc du bois. To get the vinifera we need, I’ve
But how did Professor Walker’s team get the gene for PD-resistance into the Vitis vinifera grapes? According to Kamas, “Walker
got to work with growers all the way up north around Lubbock. I’m looking for more options of what I can grow on my Bryan estate.”
went at it the way nature has done it for eons: by producing pollen,
Walker believes his varieties have reached commercial quality.
seeds and seedlings. No gene guns or trans-species bacteria were
“I’m planning on getting the 97 percent vinifera…and a few 94 per-
used to get the arizonica gene to mix with those of vinifera grapes.
cent…to nurseries this year. They will increase the number of vari-
These are definitely not GMO grapes.”
eties for release to growers in 2019 and 2020. There will be more to
Walker’s initial cross-breeding gave him a new grape variety
follow in successive years.”
that was 50 percent vinifera and 50 percent arizonica, but it didn’t
After the long wait, it looks like the silver bullet is finally ready.
have the characteristics desired by wine drinkers. Then, he re-
Now, it’s time for Texas vineyards and winemakers to lock and
peated the process several more times with additional vinifera
load, and for consumers to get their taste.
parent plants while using a genetic test to choose only those seed-
For more on Walker’s PD-resistant grapes, email fps@ucdavis.edu EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM
BEVERAGE 2017
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edible GARDENS
There’s no better way to fortify your garden while reducing your contribution to landfills, but starting a compost pile can feel a little daunting. Just remember to follow this simple equation:
Nitrogen-rich items make up the “greens” part of your pile. GREENS INCLUDE: • fruit peels, seeds and cores • vegetable peels and seeds • green leaves • grass clippings TURN, TURN, TURN Use a pitchfork or shovel to turn the pile once a week or so, to aerate and help distribute moisture content. Gaps between the boards also help oxygen circulate.
BOX SIZE: Aim for at least 3x3’. KEEP THESE OUT OF YOUR PILE Items that should not be added to your compost pile include: • • • • • • • •
ashes (affects pH balance of the soil) meat (causes odor, attracts pests) fish and fish bones whole eggs (egg shells are okay) animal fats or other oily products dairy products cat litter dog or cat feces
bambiedlund.com
Items that produce carbon are called “browns,” and should make up the bulk of your pile (aim for three parts brown to one part green). BROWNS INCLUDE: • twigs and branches • dry leaves • sawdust • hay or straw • mulch or wood chips • old topsoil • animal manure
(from vegetarian animals ONLY—no cat or dog feces)
START WITH A THICK BASE LAYER of brown material, including sticks, twigs, wood chips, hay or straw to promote air circulation. Then alternate layers of greens and browns, making sure to always have a layer of browns on top, to balance the moisture. Add water as needed to keep the pile damp but not wet—the moisture content should be like a wrung-out dishrag. Too dry? Add some water or greens. Too wet? Add more browns. HARVEST! The compost is ready to use after 2–3 months. Once the pile is ready, you can also add worms to speed the process up.
TIGHT ON SPACE? A smaller compost pile can be successful with the addition of red wiggler worms. Fill a box 8–16” deep with layers of soil, newspaper and leaves. Place the worms on top with a layer of fruit and vegetable waste. Be sure to make holes in the bottom of the box to allow for ventilation and drainage.
edible GARDENS
NOT YOUR GRANDMA’S TEA BY J ESS I CA RO B E RTSO N
W
hen you think of tea, you’re probably not thinking about
meal, unsulfured molasses or other simple sugar sources, fish hy-
it having anything to do with compost. But while com-
drolysate, fish emulsion, ground oatmeal, humic acid or humate
post tea may not sound like a very appetizing drink,
fertilizers and soybean meal. The meals also create more surface
plants sure do love it.
area, allowing microbes to attach and grow.
What is compost tea? Compost tea is poorly named, in my
When making compost tea, water oxygenation is crucial. Use an
opinion. This is not your grandma’s stagnant, water-soaked ma-
air pump that can supply enough dissolved oxygen to create an aer-
nure tea, and you don’t steep something in boiled water to make
obic compost tea. If the tea becomes anaerobic (lacking oxygen),
it either. Compost tea is made by moving microorganisms from
you’ll be growing nasty microbes that can make you sick. Most
compost into continually oxygenated (aerated) water and then giv-
aquarium pumps don’t produce enough air to use in a container
ing them food to help them multiply. This aerated concoction is
larger than 1 gallon. Invest in an air pump that can supply enough
applied as a foliar spray or soil-drench to plants. Quite simply, it is
oxygen (these range in cost from $35 to $50), is at least 20 watts and
homemade liquid gold.
has an output of 45 liters per minute.
What does it do? When applied to leaf surfaces, the microor-
Then, use tubing and aquarium stones (more than one means
ganisms in compost tea act as a bandage and prevent plant patho-
more oxygen) that are weighted down so they sit on the bottom
gens from infecting plant tissues. When compost tea is applied as a
of the bucket without floating. Add the ingredients (see my recipe
soil-drench, the microbes cycle nutrients and make them available
below) and brew in a shady location for 12 to 24 hours. It’s very
to plants. The benefits of applying compost tea include increased
important that you don’t brew for longer than 24 hours. You can
fruit and vegetable yields, increased disease and pest resistance,
add more water and brew for a longer period if you use a portion
natural soil aeration and increased water retention capacity in the
of the tea, but never add more food during the brewing process. If
root zone. Plus, it’s natural, cost-effective and easy to make.
you accidentally allow the tea to go too long or sit too long after the
Different plants may need different types of tea, depending on
aeration gets cut off, do not apply this to your plants. I like to pour
whether the plant roots prefer to be dominated by bacteria or fun-
it on fire ant mounds (the microbes help to destroy the ant colony)
gus (the good bacteria and good fungus, not the bad guys). Most
or dispose of it away from desirable plants.
veggies and grasses prefer bacteria-dominated tea while trees pre-
Once the tea is brewed, use it as a soil-drench around the root
fer fungus-dominated tea. If you want a fungal-dominated tea, then
zones of your plants or spray it directly onto the leaf surface—cov-
you need to start with a fungal-dominated compost source, such as
ering the top and bottom of the leaves. Spraying in early morn-
worm castings, and use fungal-feeding ingredients, such as fish hy-
ing or late evening when temperatures are mild is best. I prefer
drolysate, humate and oatmeal. Most commercial bagged composts
to apply the tea undiluted as this has the most concentration of
are bacterial-dominated except for a few. Ask your local indepen-
microbes. Apply the tea as often as you like—there is no prescribed
dent garden center for help choosing which kind of compost to make
timeline and it’s not possible to overapply it. I use compost tea a
tea with. Lucky for you, Mother Nature is very forgiving and adapt-
minimum of three to four times per growing season.
able. If in doubt, make a batch of compost tea and let nature happen. How can I make my own compost tea? Making your own compost tea is simple using a 5-gallon bucket. All it takes is premium com-
JESSICA’S COMPOST TEA
post to inoculate the tea with microbes, an air pump, tubing, aquarium
Makes 5 gallons
air stones and food for your microbes so they can multiply. You’ll want to start with a premium compost or vermicompost (worm castings) that is preferably made locally. Lastly, you’ll also need a way to strain the tea if you’re going to be spraying it on the leaves—paint strainers are inexpensive and work well. Avoid using anything too fine or you’ll filter out the microbes and defeat the whole purpose. Food for your microbes can include liquid seaweed or kelp
2 c. premium compost or worm castings (feel free to mix these) ¼ c. liquid humate (humic acid) 2 oz. fish hydrolysate or fish emulsion 2 oz. liquid seaweed or kelp 1 T. unsulfured horticultural molasses Brew for 12 to 24 hours in 5 gallons of actively aerated water. EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM
BEVERAGE 2017
59
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THE DIRECTORY ARTISANAL FOODS
BEVERAGES
Antonelli’s Cheese Shop
Becker Vineyards
We love cut-to-order artisanal cheese and all that goes with it. Order a picnic platter, take a class or host a private guided event. Free tastings daily. 512-531-9610 4220 Duval St. antonellischeese.com
Blue Top Brand We are a company of food lovers, family & friends from Austin. We are inspired by true intentions of the heart and we have a dream to make lives happier with creamy hot sauce. 512-894-2271 615 Spanish Oak Trl., Dripping Springs bluetopbrand.com
Delysia Chocolatier
Winery, vineyards, and tasting room with wines for tasting and for sale. Lavender fields, lavender products and annual Lavender Fest. 830-644-2681 464 Becker Farms Rd., Stonewall beckervineyards.com
Bending Branch Winery Bending Branch Winery is a premier Hill Country winery with award-winning wines, including our signature Texas Tannat. Visit us Thurs-Sun. 830-995-2948 142 Lindner Branch Trl., Comfort 830-995-3394 704 High St., Comfort bendingbranchwinery.com
Handcrafted in Austin. Our products are handmade using fine quality, sustainable chocolate and only the freshest ingredients. 512-413-4701 2000 Windy Terrace, Suite 2C delysia.com
Bent Oak Winery
La Vaquita Cheese
Bloody Revolution
Fresh, artisan quesos and cremas from generations of Mexican homestead cheesemakers. 888-337-2407 lavaquitacheese.com
Lick Honest Ice Creams Artisan ice creams celebrating the finest ingredients Texas has to offer! Handmade in small batches in our Austin kitchen. Natural, local and seasonal. 512-363-5622 1100 S. Lamar Blvd., Ste. 35 512-609-8029 6555 Burnet Rd. 1905 Aldrich Street, Ste. 150 ilikelick.com
Lone Star Meats Delivering high-quality products chefs desire with a meticulous eye on consistency. 512-646-6220 1403 E. 6th St. lonestarmeats.com
Bent Oak Winery is a local winery and tasting room bringing you fine wine with grapes sourced from Texas and California. 512-551-1189 2000 Windy Terrace, Ste. 2B bentoakwinery.com
From Bloody Revolution Gourmet Mixes in Austin, TX comes a nothing-else-needed Bloody Mary Mix that’s as great for cocktails as it is for cooking. Start a REVOLUTION! bloodyrevolution.com
Fiesta Winery We are a fun-oriented winery that encourages you to drink wine the way you want. From our dry, ‘Tempranillo’ to our Riesling, ’Skinny Dippin’, we offer a wine for all. 325-628-3433 18727 W. FM 580, Lometa 830-997-4466 6260 E. US Hwy 290, Fredericksburg 830-307-3328 147 E. Main St., Fredericksburg fiestawinery.com
Live Oak Brewing Co.
Messina Hof
Tito’s Handmade Vodka
Est in 1977. Messina Hof is a family owned winery based on the three cornerstones of family, tradition, & romance. 979-778-9463 4545 Old Reliance Rd., Bryan 830-990-4653 9996 U.S. 290, Fredericksburg 817-442-8463 201 S Main St., Grapevine messinahof.com
Tito’s Handmade Vodka is handcrafted from 100% corn and distilled six times by Tito Beveridge in Austin, TX at America’s original microdistillery. Gluten-free! 512-389-9011 titosvodka.com
Paula’s Texas Spirits Paula’s Texas Orange Liqueur & Paula’s Texas Lemon Liqueur—all natural and handmade in Austin since 2006. Available throughout Texas. paulastexasspirits.com
Perrisos Vineyards Only one hour west of Austin, Perissos Vineyards is passionate about using only Texas-grown fruit to produce exceptional wines. Casual atmosphere. 512-820-2950 7214 Park Rd. 4, Burnet perrisosvineyards.com
Spec’s Wine Spirits and Finer Foods Family-owned since 1962, Spec’s offers expert service and Texas’ largest selection of wines, spirits and beers along with gourmet foods and more! 512-366-8260 4970 W. US Hwy. 290 512-342-6893 10515 N. MoPac Hwy. 512-280-7400 9900 S. I-35 512-263-9981 13015 Shops Pkwy., Bee Cave 512-366-8300 5775 Airport Blvd. specsonline.com
St. Francis Winery & Vineyards For more than four decades, the wines of St. Francis Winery & Vineyards have reflected the finest mountain and valley vineyards in Sonoma County. 888-675-9463 100 Pythian Road, Santa Rosa, CA stfranciswinery.com
Texas Coffee Traders
BAKERIES
Since 1997 Live Oak Brewing Co. has brewed authentic Central European style beers for people who enjoy the flavor of beer. 512-385-2299 1615 Crozier Ln., Del Valle liveoakbrewing.com
Blue Note Bakery
Lost Draw Cellars
Texas Keeper Ciders
Blue Note Bakery is Austin’s premier custom cake shop, meticulously creating one-of-a-kind desserts for your special occasions. 512-797-7367 4201 S. Congress Ave., Ste. 101 bluenotebakery.com
Lost Draw Cellars produces stellar Texas wines from our vineyards in the Texas High Plains, sourcing grapes from some of the best wineries in the state. 830-992-3251 113 E. Park St., Fredericksburg lostdrawcellars.com
Small-batch cider made in south Austin from 100% apples. Available in stores, bars, and restaurants throughout Austin, Houston, and DFW areas. 512-910-3409 12521 Twin Creeks Rd. texaskeeper.com
East Austin’s artisinal coffee roaster and one-stop shop offering a wide selection of certified organic and fair trade options for wholesale and retail. 512-476-2279 1400 E. 4th St. texascoffeetraders.com
Torr Na Lochs Vineyard & Winery Torr Na Lochs is a vineyard, winery, tasting room and event venue serving wines made only from Texas grown fruit. 512-766-0555 7055 W. Hwy. 29, Burnet torrnalochs.com
Twisted X Brewing Craft brewery nestled at the foot of the Hill Country. Our tap room is open weekly with 13 locally brewed beers on tap, it’s a great place for a party or to simply enjoy a pint. 512-829-5323 23455 W. RR 150, Dripping Springs texmexbeer.com
BOOKSELLERS BookPeople Texas’ leading independent bookstore since 1970. Located in the heart of downtown, BookPeople has been voted best bookstore in Austin for over 15 years! 512-472-5050 603 N. Lamar Blvd. bookpeople.com
CATERING AND MEAL DELIVERY Bespoke Food Full-service caterer creating menus exclusive to each event for corporate and private parties. Truly bespoke. 512-323-0272 bespokeaustin.com
The Farmstead at Driftwood Farm fresh veggies and fruits delivered to your door. 512-731-8655 194 Darden Hill Rd., Driftwood thefarmsteadatdriftwood.com
Pink Avocado A custom catering company specializing in tailored menus, incredible food, and surprisingly good professional service. 512-656-4348 401 Sabine St., Ste. B pinkavocadocatering.com
Spoon & Co. Catering It’s our business to delight you with the details, memorable events with mindfully chosen, prepared and presented food and a caring crew! 512-912-6784 spoonandco.com
EVENTS Hill Country Food Truck Festival Featuring a number of food trucks, wine and a lineup of live Texas music from Noon until 11 p.m. on Saturday, June 24, in Luckenbach, TX. luckenbachtexas.com
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BEVERAGE BEVERAGE2017 2017
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NONPROFIT
Whim Hospitality
Whole Foods Market
The Herb Bar
The Whim Hospitality family of services includes catering, event and tent rentals and florals. Separately, or as a package of services, we help make your next event memorable. 512-858-9446 2001 W. Hwy. 290, Ste. 107 Dripping Springs whimhospitality.com
Best place to cure what ails you and a resource center since 1986. Our Optimal Health Advisers are highly trained, knowledgeable and compassionate. 512-444-6251 200 W. Mary St. theherbbar.com
LANDSCAPE AND GARDENING
The Central Texas Food Bank is on the front line of hunger relief in a 21-county area, helping nearly 46,000 Central Texans each week access nutritious food when they need it the most. 512-282-2111 6500 Metropolis Dr. centraltexasfoodbank.org
FARMERS MARKETS
Selling the highest quality natural and organic products. 512-542-2200 525 N. Lamar Blvd. 512-345-5003 9607 Research Blvd. 512-206-2730 12601 Hill Country Blvd., Bee Cave 512-358-2460 4301 W. William Cannon wholefoodsmarket.com
Sustainable Food Center
HEALTH AND BEAUTY
Barton Springs Nursery
PROFESSIONAL SERVICES
SFC cultivates a healthy community by strengthening the local food system and improving access to nutritious, affordable food. 512-236-0074 400 W. Guadalupe St. 3200 Jones Rd., Sunset Valley 4600 Lamar Blvd. 2921 E. 17 St., Bldg C (Office) sustainablefoodcenter.org
FARMS
Peoples Rx Pharmacy and Deli Since 1980, Austin’s favorite pharmacy keeps locals healthy through Rx compounding, supplements and prescriptions, holistic practitioners and natural foods. 512-459-9090; 4018 N. Lamar Blvd. 512-444-8866; 3801 S. Lamar Blvd. 512-327-8877; 4201 Westbank Dr. 512-219-9499; 13860 Hwy 183 N. peoplesrx.com
Wiseman Family Practice
44 Farms Founded and Family-owned since 1909 in Cameron, 44 Farms is the U.S. premier producer of ethically raised Angus beef. Our ranchers produce beef with no added hormones, antibiotics or artificial ingredients. 254-697-4401 963 PR 44, Cameron 44farms.com
Wiseman Family Practice is an integrative medical practice in Austin, Tx that focuses on health education and natural approaches to wellness. 512-345-8970 2500 S. Lakeline Blvd. Ste. 100 Cedar Park 300 Medical Arts St. 3010 Bee Cave Rd, Ste. 200 wisemanfamilypractice.com
Burg’s Corner
YMCA of Austin
Fredericksburg peaches. Local fruit and vegetable stand. Peach ice cream. Peach cider. Over 100 Texas gourmet jarred products. Sweet snacks and gifts. 830-644-2604 15194 E. US Hwy 290 Stonewall burgscorner.com
HOUSEWARES AND GIFTS
Capra Premium Dorper Lamb Locally raised, All Natural, Premium Dorper Lamb. 325-648-2418 1110 E. Front St., Goldthwaite caprafoods.com
GROCERS Downtown Austin’s neighborhood grocer—with dairy, prepared foods, beer and wine, Royal Blue has it all, in a convenient and compact format. Catering too! 512-499-3993; 247 W. 3rd St. 512-476-5700; 360 Nueces St. 512-469-5888; 609 Congress Ave. 512-386-1617; 301 Brazos St., Ste. 110 512-480-0061; 51 Rainey St. 512-524-0740; 1645 E. 6th St. royalbluegrocery.com BEVERAGE 2017
Callahan’s General Store Austin’s real general store…hardware to western wear, from feed to seed! 512-385-3452 501 S. Hwy. 183 callahansgeneralstore.com
Copenhagen Imports
Royal Blue Grocery
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Building programs for youth development, healthy living and social responsibility that promote strong families, character values, youth leadership and community development. 8 Austin Area Locations 512-322-9622 austinymca.org
Contemporary furniture and accessories for home and office. 512-451-1233 2236 W. Braker Ln. copenhagenliving.com
Der Küchen Laden Retail gourmet kitchen shop, featuring cookware, cutlery, bakeware, small electrics, textiles and kitchen gadgets. 830-997-4937 258 E. Main St., Fredericksburg littlechef.com
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Locally grown Texas native plants. Organic pest management. Environmentally friendly soil amendments. Beautiful gifts. 512-328-6655 3601 Bee Caves Rd. bartonspringsnursery.net
It’s About Thyme Garden Center Top quality herbs for chefs, and native plants for gardeners. A nursery with expert staff and pocket-friendly prices. Free lectures most Sundays. 512-280-1192 11726 Manchaca Rd. itsaboutthyme.com
Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center The Wildflower Center is a native plant botanic garden, a university research center and one of the 1,000 places to see before you die. 512-232-0100 4801 La Crosse Ave. wildflower.org
Natural Gardener We are a garden center and teaching facility dedicated to promoting organic time-tested gardening practices. 512-288-6113 8648 Old Bee Caves Rd. naturalgardeneraustin.com
LODGING AND TOURISM Fredericksburg Convention and Visitors Bureau Visit Fredericksburg, a small gem nestled in the Texas Hill Country. Enjoy eclectic shops, diverse lodging, amazing restaurants and Texas wines. 888-997-3600 visitfredericksburgtx.com
Onion Creek Kitchens at Juniper Hills Farm Cooking classes, beautiful dining room venue for private events, hill country cabin rental. 830-833-0910 5818 RR 165 Dripping Springs juniperhillsfarm.com
Central Texas Food Bank
Austin Label Company Custom labels up to 10 x 20 on paper, foil, synthetics, multiple adhesives, embossing, hot foil and UV coatings. Proud members of Go Texan, FTA and TWGGA. 512-302-0204 1610 Dungan Ln. austinlabel.com
REAL ESTATE Audrey Row — Keller Williams Realtor assisting residential selling or buying clients in the Austin/Dripping Springs and surrounding areas. Land and Residential market. 512-789-1633 1801 S. Mopac, Suite 100 austinanddrippinghomes.com
Barbara Van Dyke — Kuper Sotheby’s Kuper Sotheby’s International Realty Realtor. Helping buyers and sellers move to the next chapter of their lives. 512-431-2552 4301 Westbank Dr., B-100 barbaravandyke.kuperrealty.com
Judd Waggoman — Christie’s International Real Estate Your ultimate source for luxury real estate in Los Cabos. Ranked #1 Realtor in Los Cabos, Mexico by InMexico Magazine. 530-751-6797 judcaborealestate.com
The Marye Company Full service real estate firm in Austin, Texas. Where you live is a lifestyle. Let us help you define yours. 512-444-7171 5608 Parkcrest, Suite 300 themaryecompany.com
RESTAURANTS Austin Beer Garden Brewing Co. Locally-sourced lunch and dinner. Craft brewery, live music, good people, dog friendly, creative community. #beermakesitbetter #ouratx 512-298-2242 1305 W. Oltorf St. theabgb.com
Austin Taco Project
East Side Pies
Kerbey Lane Cafe
Vinaigrette
Austin Taco Project once and for all renders the “where-should-we-get-tacos” question irrelevant. Fusion tacos, custom cocktails, and a celebration of all-things eclectic. 512-682-2739 500 E 4th St. austintacoproject.com
Fresh, local thin crust pizza - we know what you want. 512-524-0933; 1401B Rosewood Ave. 512-454-7437; 5312 G Airport Blvd. 512-467-8900; 1809-1 W. Anderson Ln. eastsidepies.com
Kerbey Lane Cafe is a local Austin haunt serving up tasty, healthy food (mostly) 24/7. Stop by any of our 6 locations for a delicious stack of pancakes! 512-451-1436 kerbeylanecafe.com
A farm-to-table restaurant serving entrée salads and botany-inspired drinks/ cocktails. Patio dining and parking available. Open daily for lunch and dinner. 512-852-8791; 2201 College Ave. 505-820-9205 709 Don Cubero Alley, Santa Fe, NM 505-842-5507 1828 Central Ave. SW, Albuquerque, NM vinaigretteonline.com
Barlata Tapas Bar Located in the heart of South Lamar. Barlata offers a variety of tapas, paellas, regional Spanish wines and cavas. Come and enjoy a bit of Spain with us. 512-473-2211 1500 S. Lamar Blvd., Ste. 150 barlataaustin.com
Bistro Vonish Elevated vegan cuisine, showcasing the freshest flavors of Central Texas. 203-982-7762 701 E. 53rd St. facebook.com/bistrovonish
Crepe Crazy Offering succulent savory and sweet crepes with a modern European twist using the highest quality authentic European recipes with a focus on the best & freshest ingredients. 512-387-2442 3103 S. Lamar Blvd. crepecrazy.com
Flyrite Chicken At Flyrite, we believe fast food should be real food. Our delicious sandwiches, wraps and shakes are fresh and made to order. Drive Thru. Eat Well! 512-284-8014; 2129 E. 7th St. flyritechicken.com
Fonda San Miguel Distinctive interior Mexican cuisine and fine art. 512-459-4121 2330 W. North Loop fondasanmiguel.com
Honey’s Pizza Neapolitan pizza, baked goods, ice cream and burgers. 512-237-5627 109 NE 2nd St., Smithville honeyspizza.com
The Leaning Pear Café & Eatery Serving the Texas Hill Country fresh and seasonal favorites using local ingredients. 512-847-7327 111 River Rd., Wimberley leaningpear.com
Whip In
Lenoir
Wink Restaurant & Wine Bar
Lenoir is an intimate, family-run restaurant offering a weekly, local prix-fixe menu, great wine and friendly service. 512-215-9778 1807 S. 1st St. lenoirrestaurant.com
Beer & wine bars with restaurant. Gujarati (Indian) style food. Huge selection of beer & wine retail. Fill growlers with 72 draft beers. 512-442-5337; 1950 S. I-35 whipin.com The daily menu is based on local artisans. Wink happily embraces omnivores, vegetarians, vegans, pescetarians and special dietary issues. 512-482-8868 1014 N. Lamar Blvd. winkrestaurant.com
SPECIALTY MARKETS
Jobell Cafe & Bistro
ThunderCloud Subs
Make It Sweet
We offer a carefully selected and prepared take on French bistro fare with wonderful wines all served amidst the intimacy and charm of Texas Hill Country. 512-847-5700 16920 RR 12, Wimberley jobellcafe.com
For fresh, fast and healthy, head on over to your neighborhood ThunderCloud Subs, Austin’s original sub shop. Now with 30 locations in Central Texas. 512-479-8805 thundercloud.com
At Make It Sweet, you can find tools, supplies and ingredients to make cakes, cookies and candies and learn fun, new techniques in the classes offered. 512-371-3401 9070 Research Blvd. makeitsweet.com
What's for dinner? quick weeknight dinner special occasion gluten-free // vegetarian // dairy-free or just trying something new! Search our database of over 1000 recipes perfect for every season.
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BEVERAGE 2017
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The grain is milled (ground to a meal) and combined with water. This mixture is called mash.
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5
The cooled mash is then transferred to the fermenter, and yeast is added. The yeast consumes the sugars and produces alcohol and carbon dioxide.
6 2 BOURBON: Corn RYE WHISKEY: Rye WHEAT WHISKEY: Wheat MALT WHISKEY: Malted barley
The mash is heated, which releases fermentable sugars from the grain, and then cooled.
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Once the mash is in the distiller, it is heated to separate the water and alcohol from the mash. The heated alcohol rises to the top of the distiller.
The steam is cooled in the condenser, returning it to liquid form. The result is a highly concentrated alcohol.
The alcohol that comes directly from the condenser is then stored in barrels and aged (to make whiskey, for example), or immediately blended with flavoring agents, like juniper berries (to make gin).
VODKA: Various grains (usually wheat, barley, & rye) The following spirits are distilled from main ingredients other than grain: BRANDY: Grapes RUM: Sugar cane TEQUILA: Agave
The proof system was established in 16th-century England, for the purpose of taxing liquors according to their alcohol content. The earliest test involved soaking gunpowder with the liquor in question and applying a flame. If the gunpowder ignited, the alcohol content was “over proof,” and was taxed at a higher rate than the “under proof” spirits. These days, proof is determined by the percent of alcohol by volume. More accurate, perhaps, but much less fun.
bambiedlund.com
GIN: Various grains (usually wheat and/or rye)
nOw oPeN CeDaR PaRk REAL FOOD. REAL SAVINGS.
365BYWHOLEFOODS.COM Located in the Parke Shopping Center (SW corner of New Hope Drive & Toll Road 183A) 5001 183A Toll Road, Cedar Park, Texas 78613