No. 34 May/June | Beverage 2014
Celebrating Central Texas food culture, season by season
BEVERAGE Issue Memb er of Edible Communities
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CONTENTS beverage issue 6
Half Step, Bitch Beer, The AG Project, Uncertain Farms, Spicy Mama Salsa, New World Gelato.
Texas in the bottle.
Cooks at Home
East End Wines.
Preparing for abundance.
Hip Girl’s Guide To Homemaking
The fizz biz.
La Casita de Buen Sabor
Season of the spritzers.
BEVERAGE features 20 The Happiness Business Blending Texas with old world Spanish grapes.
26 Texas Coffee Traders Connecting over a cup of coffee.
34 Austin Beerworks Growing one pearl snap at a time.
40 The Texas Terroirists Trailblazers in the evolution of Texas wine.
52 The Burnet Road Crawl Experience the true beating heart of old Austin.
66 The History of Gin Dust the cobwebs off the gin...
Find a full listing of our contributors at edibleaustin.com
COVER: Buddy's Place from The Burnet Road Crawl (page 52). Photography by Whitney Arostegui.
70 Genius Gin ...and meet an all-local artisan.
CHEERS TO A COOL SUMMER!
PUBLISHER Marla Camp
ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER elebrate our Beverage issue this summer by keeping yourself hydrated and cool.
Cool as in sipping on an herb-infused spritzer drink—Lucinda
Hutson offers several options to choose from (p. 74–75). I vote for the Gin and Roses (after reading all about the history of gin by mixologist David Alan on p. 66–67). Cool as in using those plentiful tomatoes from your garden or the farmers markets to make a calming Tomato-Water Martini, courtesy of Laura McKissack (p. 62). Craving a non-alcoholic refresher? Try your hand at making Kate Payne's soda syrups for your own homemade fountain sodas. Spiking allowed, of course! (p. 72–73). Cool as in ducking out of the heat and into one (or all) of the old-Austin bars along our suggested Burnet Road Crawl to say "hey" to Ginny, Lala and Jackie, nurse a longneck and while away some hours listening to classic jukebox fare (p. 52–58). Lest we forget about eating while we’re drinking, this issue features plenty of seasonal summer recipes—throw some chicken on your grill à la Tito Beveridge (p. 25); sear some Gulf tuna from K&S Seafood (p. 31); and whip up Elizabeth Winslow’s Summer Salads as meatless meals or to go with the aforementioned turf and surf. The absolutely coolest thing you can do this summer, however, is to help us support Austin Food for Life, a start-up nonprofit dedicated to assisting food and beverage industry professionals (including farmers and artisans) access affordable healthcare solutions by attending our second annual Sipping Social taking place on Saturday, June 21 at new event space Fair Market on Austin's historic East Side. Dress in your finest vintage attire and attend our Prohabition Era-style wing-ding of a party that brings this issue and the Austin beverage scene to life featuring live jazz, dance lessons, a cocktail lounge, wine bar, beer hall, juice and coffee bars, soda fountain, delectable artisan food tastings, and surprises around all the corners. We’ve invited back
EDITOR Kim Lane
ADVERTISING DIRECTOR Dawn Jordan
PRODUCTION ASSISTANT Whitney Arostegui
MARKETING ASSISTANT Shannon Kintner
COPY EDITOR Anne Marie Hampshire
EDITORIAL ASSISTANTS Melinda Barsales, Claire Cella, Dena Garcia, Marie Franki Hanan, Cari Marshall, Michelle Moore
ADVERTISING SALES Curah Beard, Lori Brix, Valerie Kelly
DISTRIBUTION MANAGER Greg Rose
ADVISORY GROUP Terry Thompson-Anderson, Paula Angerstein, Dorsey Barger, Jim Hightower, Toni Tipton-Martin, Mary Sanger, Suzanne Santos, Carol Ann Sayle
the baby goats from Swede Farm—and Swede’s signature chocolate goat’s milk is
not to be missed. Tickets go on sale May 1 and we will offer a limited number of VIP
Edible Austin 1415 Newning Avenue, Austin, TX 78704 512-441-3971 firstname.lastname@example.org edibleaustin.com
Packages again this year, featuring a collection of spirits and other beverages from the artisans featured at the event that will stock your home bars for many moons.
Edible Austin is published bimonthly by Edible Austin L.L.C. All rights reserved. Subscription rate is $35 annually. No part of this publication may be used without written permission of the publisher. ©2014. Every effort is made to avoid errors, misspellings and omissions. If, however, an error comes to your attention, please accept our sincere apologies and notify us.
Be there or be square, cool cat.
TEQUIL A HERRADURA ENJOY OUR HANDCRAFTED TEQUILA RESPONSIBLY.
Alc. 40% by Vol. (80 proof). Tequila imported by Brown-Forman, Louisville, KY ©2014. Herradura and Never Compromise are registered trademarks.
notable MENTIONS EDIBLE AUSTIN’S SIPPING SOCIAL RETURNS SATURDAY, JUNE 21 Our Edible Austin Beverage issue comes to life at this year’s Sipping Social, a rousing 1920s-themed evening of Texan spirits, wines, craft brews and all things beverage-related. While tasting handcrafted drinks from our
ocial S g S i p p in Austin’s
curated beverage artisans, guests will enjoy local food tastings, live jazz music inspired by the Prohibition Era, dance lessons and surprises around every corner. Put on your finest vintage attire and celebrate with us! This year’s Social is 7–10 p.m. on Saturday, June 21 at Fair Market, a new events space located at 1100 E. 5th Street in historic East Austin. The event this year again benefits Austin Food for Life, a nonprofit dedicated to helping food and beverage industry professionals access affordable healthcare so-
Experience TRACE showcasing the finest locally sourced and foraged flavors from the region’s surrounding farms. Welcome patio weather and the summer of Riesling with new warmer weather wines—enjoy all current bottles available for 25% off.*
ELEVATE YOUR HAPPY HOUR Weekdays 5-7pm
lutions. Early Bird tickets go on sale May 1, along with a limited number of VIP packages featuring the much-coveted Sipping Social Treasure Chest and early entry to the event. Visit edibleaustin. com/sippingsocial for more information.
SUMMER TWITTER WINE TASTINGS AT WHOLE FOODS MARKET Whole Foods Market invites wine enthusiasts to tweet together about their favorite summer wines during Twitter Tastings on May 29 and June 26. Each tasting includes a variety of wines (a recent tasting featured rich Italian whites), which you can enjoy from the comfort of your own home—or at all of the Whole Foods in-store bars—and join your friends and followers for the tweet-up online @wholefoodsATX. For more information, visit wholefoodsmarket.
com/wine and use the hashtag #WFMwine to follow the conversation. The twitter wine chats are 7–8 p.m. on May 29 and June 26. Participants must be at least 21 years old.
LONE STAR FOODSERVICE RECEIVES HIGH LEVEL SAFETY CERTIFICATION Lone Star Foodservice—a family-owned wholesale meat distribution company that has sourced fine cuts of natural beef, pork and lamb within Texas since 1952—is now a Safe Quality Food (SQF) Level 2 Certified, accredited HACCP-Based Food Safety plant. The SQF plan is benchmarked by the Global Food Safety Initiative (GFSI), which is internationally recognized, distinguishing food manufactures as responsible and safe. Lone Star spokesperson Mar-
200 Lavaca Street | Austin 78701 | traceaustin.com @traceatx 8
gie Quina explains that the certification is on par with receiving the “Good Housekeeping Seal of Approval” and much respected within the food industry. Visit lonestarfood.com for more information.
512 MARKET OFFERS FRESHLY PREPARED MEALS Starting this spring, 512 Market Kitchen will offer locally sourced and seasonally inspired meals, via its website and at both the Lone Star Farmers Market (Sundays) and SFC Market Downtown (Saturdays). Chef Sam Addison will feature several ready-to-eat menu items such as the signature 512 Market Kitchen Lamb Burger and a bountiful quiche of the day, plus grab-and-go meal options—including freshly prepared Chicken
y d a E R you
Salad and Farmers Market Meatloaf. Visit 512marketkitchen.com
es s i r p r or Su
for more information.
NATURE NIGHTS AT THE WILDFLOWER CENTER
? r e n r o ery C
During these hot summer months, there’s plenty to do at the Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center as the sun goes down on Thursdays, when the Center comes alive with Nature Nights. These nights feature explorations of plants, animals, and the ecology of Central Texas, and interactive presentations, hikes with experts in
E d n u o Ar
their fields, and nature crafting for kids of all ages. Nature Nights are 5–8 p.m. every Thursday from June 12 to July 24. Admission is free, and children 12 and younger receive a free gift in the store. And on Sunday, May 4, don’t miss the Grand Opening of the Luci and Ian Family Garden, where kids of all ages may explore nature with a living maze, caves and grottos, giant birds nest and more. The Grand Opening celebration will feature live music, food carts and play activities—all day, 10 a.m–7 p.m.
“Spinning Plates” is a foodie phantasmagoria and something more… an involving look at personal dramas that go well beyond the kitchen.”—Kenneth Turan, Los Angeles Times
GOOD TASTE: SPINNING PLATES, MAY 29
Come in your favorite vintage attire to our 1920’s-themed celebration of all things beverage-related with live music, artisanal food, handcrafted drinks.
Edible Austin and The Contemporary Austin present Good Taste: Spinning Plates at Laguna Gloria on Thursday, May 29. Gather amid Orly Genger's cascading monumental installation, Current, in the Laguna Gloria amphitheater for an evening celebrating restaurants as sites of creativity and community. View “Spinning Plates,” a sumptuous documentary about three diverse restaurants and the people who bring them to life. Light bites and cocktails are provided by local restaurateurs, who will share the highs and heartbreaks that come with the business. The event begins at 7:30 p.m., and the film begins at 8:30 p.m. Visit thecontemporaryaustin.org for more information. Tickets: $18 or $12 for members. Picnics encouraged!
NEW BRAUNFELS WEIN & SAENGERFEST The 11th Annual Wein and Saengerfest is in downtown New Braunfels on Saturday, May 3, featuring wine tastings, a grape stomp, beer tastings, live music, more than 25 food and artisan vendors, food seminars, an amateur “Chef’s Showdown,” and activities
g n i S i pp
l a i c So
for the kids—plus a disco street dance featuring LeFreak at the Main Plaza. Visit weinandsaengerfest.com for more information. EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM
EDIBLE AUSTIN PRESENTS LUCINDA HUTSON AT TACOS AND TEQUILA, MAY 1 Lucinda Hutson signs and talks about her latest book, “Viva Tequila! Cocktails, Cooking, and Other Agave Adventures,” at Tacos and Tequila, which received top billing on Zagat’s national review of “10 Hot Places to Drink Tequila in the U.S.” in 2013. “Viva Tequila!”—a colorful tome of Lucinda’s adventures and recipes from Mexico—is a must-have for anyone who loves a good fiesta. The free event is Thursday, May 1, 5–7:30 p.m. and includes a tequila tasting with Tequila Herradura and a slide show from Hutson’s travels and folk art collection. Visit edibleaustin.com for more information.
BEER, BIKES AND BLOOMS IN BLANCO Idyllic Blanco is a hotbed of activity this time of year. The season kicks off May 17 with the Real Ale Ride, a bicycle ride for all levels that ends at the Real Ale Brewery in Blanco for a post-ride celebration with local beer and barbecue. Next up is the 2nd Annual Lowdown Rally, May 23-26 at Yett Memorial Park. This old-school bike rally includes amateur dirt track racing, motorcycle rodeo, tattoo show, food and beverages, vendor booths, camping and live music. Then there’s the ever-popular 10th Annual Blanco Lavender Festival, June 13-15. In addition to free tours of local lavender farms, events include a market, cooking demonstrations and dishes from local restaurants—all featuring the fragrant native flower at the
KATE PAYNE’S NEW BOOK DEBUTS MAY 27 AT BOOKPEOPLE Kate Payne signs her newly released book, "The Hip Girl's Guide to the Kitchen: A Hit-TheGround Running Approach to Stocking Up and Cooking Delicious, Nutritious, and Affordable Meals," at BookPeople on Tuesday, May 27 at 7 p.m. In addition to Kate’s talk, enjoy food and drink tastings from the book, presented by Edible Austin. Visit edibleaustin.com for details.
NATURAL LIVING FESTIVAL AT CASA DE LUZ Casa de Luz is hosting its first Natural Living Festival on Saturday, May 17, 12–5 p.m., featuring 100-percent plant-based meals, children's entertainment, live music, health practitioners, vendors, samples and demos. The free event provides a great opportunity to learn more about Asian medicine, vegan meal planning and wellness techniques, as well as many other holistic resources for all ages. Visit natural-living-festival.com for more information.
GELATO WORLD TOUR COMES TO AUSTIN Gelato lovers, rejoice! Austin is hosting the North American Stage of the World Gelato Tour on May 9–11 in Republic Square. This event features top artisan chefs from around the country competing to create the world’s best gelato flavor. Central Texas is wellrepresented by Dolce Neve, Teo and The Turtle Gelateria, entering their signature flavor, The Turtle—rich chocolate, caramel swirl with salty toasted San Saba pecans. The top three winners get to compete for the world title for best flavor in Italy in September. Visit gelatoworldtour.com for details. 10
Photography by Jo Ann Santangelo
height of its season. Visit blancochamber.com for more information.
notable EDIBLES ICE ICE, BABY
ow do you elevate a three-ingredient cocktail to the point that it becomes a craft-beverage experience? With such fas-
tidious attention to detail that even its cubes of ice are a deliberate and painstakingly created effect. “Ice, to us, is a very big thing,” says Chris Bostick, the general manager and a partner of
7-10pm at Fair Market
Rainey Street’s new craft-cocktail destination Half Step, brought to Austin by the creators of The Varnish in Los Angeles. “It’s actually a very important ingredient in our cocktails. The goal is to keep things simple, but to pore over every detail to allow us to create simple cocktails that also become memorable.” In fact, the people behind Half Step so venerate ice that while renovating the bar they also installed a separate icehouse on the property. Inside is a Clinebell—an ice machine, normally used by ice sculptors, that regularly creates two 300-pound blocks of ice, which are then broken down with saws, tools and other mecha-
ocial S i ng
S i pp
nisms to produce old-fashioned ice cubes, ice for shaking, fiveinch-tall Collins spears and more. “It’s quite a lot of work for one particular detail, but it makes a big difference,” says Bostick. “I kind of liken ice to throwing a brisket into a smoker. Once you throw a chunk of ice in, the clock is on. The slower and the more steady the rate, the more you can control how much water enters into the cocktail—keeping the water temperature just right.” This technology has been critical to the success of some of Half Step’s bestselling cocktails, such as The Floradora—a “buckstyle” drink made with fresh ginger and lime, house-made raspberry syrup, gin and soda water. “It’s served tall, on one of these crystal clear Collins spears,” Bostick says. “It’s very striking, very delicious, refreshing and people respond well to it.” And the word is out. Bostick says Half Step has had an incredible response from customers since opening early this year, and that the icehouse itself has generated a good deal of interest. “A
Benefit for Austin Food for Life
lot of people are very curious. They say, Wow, that seems like a lot of work for ice, and then they taste the drinks and they see. They understand.” —Nicole Lessin
Photography courtesy of Chris Bostick
For more information, visit halfstepbar.com
Tickets and VIP Packages available now
I’LL HAVE WHAT SHE’S HAVING
clude Arianna Auber, Sarah Wood, Holly Aker, Wendy Cawthon,
entitled “Austin Beer: Capital City History on Tap” published by
ormally, when the crass term “bitch beer” is used, it’s meant to signify a high-sugar, low-alcohol, flavored malt beverage in-
tended for ladies who don’t like beer. But two years ago, following an afternoon spent enjoying craft beers from Thirsty Planet Brewing Company’s taproom, a group of females with strong backgrounds in journalism and design—as well as a passion for distinctively flavored, small-batch brews—sought to reclaim and reinvent that term. “It was a very let’s-flip-it-on-its-head mentality,” says Caroline Wallace, a member of the group. “We’re women and we like craft beer. It was a term we thought was silly, and we didn’t like ‘bitch beers’—but there was almost no question of it being the name.” Thus was born Bitch Beer, a blog dedicated to adding a female (and often hilarious) voice to the craft-beer conversation, in which the women cover everything from the latest brewery release to the best options for scoring free craft brews at music festivals. “When we decided to come up with a blog, we were into craft beer already. But we definitely learned so much [that] it really evolved,” says Wallace, the blog’s cofounder. “The idea was always for it to be approachable, and to get to people who might feel marginalized.” Despite these humble beginnings, the rise of Bitch Beer has been meteoric; not only was it named one of the Austin Chronicle’s “Top 10 Austin Food Blogs” in 2013 and featured nationally on the Cooking Channel and other venues, but the women (who also in-
Shaun Martin and Kat McCullough) recently coauthored a book The History Press. Based on meticulous research and more than 60 interviews, the book shares Austin’s craft-beer history and personal stories, beginning with Johann “Jean” Schneider, a German immigrant who operated an 1860s-era brewery out of a Congress Avenue saloon, all the way through to the co-ops and breweries of 2013, when landmark craft-beer legislation allowed Texas brewers to begin to legally sell some of their product on-site. Still, true to form, the group kept the book fun—offering different local-beer pairing suggestions for each chapter (Live Oak Brewing Company’s HefeWeizen with Austin’s pre-Prohibition history, anyone?), as well as a drinking game that involves raising one’s glass for every picture of a bearded man. Meanwhile, the women say they’re grateful for the warm embrace and guidance Bitch Beer has received from the craft beer community. “It’s still surreal,” Wood says. “I’m glad that we’ve become an asset to people in the craft beer community, or people trying to get into the craft beer industry.” “When we started,” adds Wallace, “there were definitely some who said, Who are these girls? because we were a little younger than your typical craft beer drinker. So it was kind of cool to earn some respect.” Indeed. And while the ladies are certainly down-to-earth and approachable, when asked if it would be appropriate to salute them at a future craft beer event with “Hey Bitches!” Wood responds with a laugh and says: “You know…we prefer no.” —Nicole Lessin Find out more at bitchbeer.org
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sin ce 1
TasTe The sweeTness
of LOCAL, hAND-CrAfTeD GOODNeSS front porch
It’s your . It’s the time your grandma took you to the backyard on a summer night to see the lightning bugs for the —just first time. It’s your a little peck on the lips at recess on a hot .
first kiss Texas afternoon
Things are just sweeter in the south—a sugary tapestry of experiences that you only get growing up where life moves at a comfortable pace. A nice glass of honest, old-fashioned isn’t just a part of that life; it is that life.
Moonshine Sweet Tea bottles the southern experience, and we think you’ll agree. We’ll even bet the farm on it. And if we win, just tell all your friends about us. Deal? Now, .
let’s shake on it
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Kids of all ages explore nature with a living maze, caves and grottos, giant birds nests, dinosaur footprints and more!
he scent of rosemary and other herbs, the song of birds,
the feel of water droplets on your
Luci and Ian Family Garden
skin—to many, these are ordinary
Grand Opening: May 4 • 10 am - 7 pm Live music, food carts, activities and playtime.
moments in a garden, unworthy of much notice. But for some students with sensory-processing disorders and other disabilities in the Leander Independent School District,
4801 La Crosse Avenue • 512.232.0100
these kinds of experiences can be an important part of their learning. “Getting outside, touching the earth and things like that help expose students to a variety of senses,” says Lisa Robertson, a support specialist who works with students who have special needs at LISD. To incorporate this important sensory learning, several LISD campuses have recently installed sensory gardens in partnership with a nonprofit organization known as The AG Project. “In general,” notes Lisa, “if you have sensory issues, that means you’re going to avoid, or be overly drawn to, certain things—maybe certain types of lighting, or textures, or loud noises. Just being outside really makes you acclimate.” What’s more, Lisa says that completing tasks in the gardens has also helped students build their academic and overall life skills— from measuring garden plots (which provides math practice) to doing research on organic pest-control methods, to going to a store to buy gardening supplies. “Some of our students really need community-access skills so [that] they are able to then go into the community and figure out what we need to buy.”
FIX MORE than just dinner
Lisa has noticed that the gardens seem to make the youngsters happier and more motivated. “We have some students who are nonverbal,” she says. “They may make some vocalizations, but they tend to be quiet throughout most of the day. But when they go outside to do the gardening, they’re making sounds, and you can just tell that their mood has improved.” The AG Project Founder Patricia Robertson, a kindergarten teacher at Parkside Elementary School and no relation to Lisa, says since the organization was founded in 2012, she and fellow board members have provided teachers with lesson plans to use in the gardens and have raised about $5,000 to build gardens at six locations— including Parkside, Leander High School and Bagdad Elementary School, where PVC-pipe raised beds were recently installed at a specific height so that students in wheelchairs could be able to touch and feel the herbs they’ve planted.
Our online market of all-local or organic groceries puts farm fresh foods at your fingertips, with healthy choices for every lifestyle. Supporting local farmers while saving time? That's the recipe for a sustainable food system.
Patricia—who founded the organization in part as a tribute to one of her former students with sensory issues—says she eventually hopes to partner with the University of Texas at Austin to research the benefits of sensory gardens for students with disabilities. “Our goal is to get enough financing to research and work with UT and see if it’s a viable sensory therapy,” she says. But she’s quick to point
LOCAL. ORGANIC. DELIVERED.
out that she’s immensely proud of the work already being done on the various campuses. “[The AG Project] has become a passion for me,” she says. “It is the thing that makes me tick.” —Nicole Lessin Find out more at theagproject.org
Photography of Cedar Park Middle School students by Crystal McCarthy
Come Play outside!
BACK TO THE LAND
n 1998, after nearly two decades of wandering—first on tours of the Far East and California with the Marine Corps, and then
via long-haul trucking throughout the Lower 48 and Canada—Bob Mishler decided it was time for a change of pace. “I was just tired of moving around and being on the go all the time,” the Texas native recalls. “I wanted the slower, hands-in-the-dirt life.” He certainly found it—or at least part of it. Mishler’s Uncertain Farms, an eight-acre plot in the Sand Hills south of Seguin named for the unpredictability of a life in agriculture, and his offshoot business M circle M Canning Company (a nod to the person who not only gave him life but also taught him how to add value to his surplus harvest), have provided the bucolic heaven he de-
thing up on the shelf week after week after week.”
sired. Slowing down doesn’t seem to be part of the deal. Besides
As if all of that doesn’t keep him busy enough, Mishler also of-
harvesting thousands of pesticide-free fruits and vegetables this
fers homemade ice creams and 20 different varieties of artisanal
season—both in the ground and hydroponically via several green-
breads—from a Mediterranean olive to a cream cheese-and-wal-
houses he recently added—he has also expanded his on-site pro-
nut twist, a crowd favorite at several San Antonio-area farmers
fessional kitchen operation, through which he sells more than 100
markets, and now available in the Austin area, as well as at the
different types of jellies, preserves, pickles and salsas made with
Lone Star Farmers Market in Bee Cave. And though he jokes that
many local ingredients—from strawberries and jalapeños grown
he’s pretty unfamiliar with the concept of a “day off,” he’s more
right on his farm to blackberries from Poteet. Mishler admits that
than happy with the decision to go back to the land. “You’re never
keeping up with everything can be challenging. “I am the canner,
going to get rich doing this, but it’s a good life,” he says. “I always
but I’m also the farmer and the weekend salesperson, so trying
wanted to get back to a simpler way of doing things; farming is as
to keep up with it all—sometimes there are items that don’t get
back-to-basics as you can get.” —Nicole Lessin
made,” he says. “But it keeps it all fresh because it’s not the same
For more information, visit uncertainfarms.com
Most celebrated market in Central Texas!
SALSA FOR A CAUSE
of mission-based, forprofit enterprises such as TOMS, the popularity of social entrepreneurship has soared in
ADDITIONAL Dysfunkshun Junkshun MUSIC Weldon & Brooklyn Henson BY
Steve Bidwell’s Armada featuring Topaz McGarrigle
All tables and tickets include: Prime seating at the performance in the Paramount Theatre Reserved seating for post-show dinner event on Congress Avenue Complimentary beverages all evening Recognition in the gala program and throughout the 2014-2015 Season Complimentary secured parking
recent years. But for David Contreras and his wife Rebecca, who recently launched their own purpose-driven brand called Spicy Mama Salsa, this is no temporary trend. “Austin is my home, and I’m a stakeholder in my city,” says David, the president of Spicy Mama Salsa, which donates 30 percent of its profits to fund LaunchPad, a nonprofit organization that the duo founded six years ago to serve at-risk youth in Northeast Austin. “Growing up in a single-parent home I had a lot of challenges,” David says. “And by the grace of God, I was able to overcome those issues in my life, so I said, I want to help kids who are not focused on education, knowing that that’s a key to achieving their goals.” The Contrerases say they are now doing this with the help of Spicy Mama’s fire-roasted, poblano-and-jalapeño-pepper salsas based on a family recipe passed down from Rebecca’s grandmother. “People have commented on how good it was for a long, long time,” David says. “It wasn’t until recently that we thought to take the recipe and produce it [in] larger volume and see what happens.” Since the brand was launched a year ago, the locally manufactured salsas have taken off, and are now available in “Mild Mama” and “Hot Mama” flavors at nine stores locally, including Wheatsville Food Co-op and Central Market. David says a major driving force behind the Spicy Mama brand has been to provide revenue to build a permanent, brickand-mortar home for LaunchPad—now based primarily at Dobie Middle School where the Contrerases oversee 14 after-school programs in the areas of leadership, financial literacy, cooking, STEM (science, technology, engineering and math) education and more. LaunchPad also provides parent education, mentoring programs and even community block parties. With the income stream generated by Spicy Mama Salsa and future donations, the couple hopes to purchase land near the middle school and build “The LaunchPad Center for Hope & Building Dreams” where they would expand their focus to include programs such as vocational and welfare-to-work training to more holistically address the needs of the community. In the meantime, David says he and his family are committed to serving the 130 young people that come through their programs each week. “These are some amazing kids,” he says. “They’re resilient, talented. They just don’t have the foundation. So we try to come in and expand their worldview on why education is important, and what it’s going to lead to—to try to tap into their potential.” —Nicole Lessin For more information, visit mamasitassalsa.com
ALL YOU HAVE TO DO IS Enjoy.
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Cheers to Savings!
A WHOLE NEW WORLD
ago from Rhode Island, Brent Petersen
farmer who organized his Rhode Island
of New World Gelato has been blown away
town’s first farmers market—says he uses
by the community’s response to his small-
only the best ingredients for his sorbettos
batch, handcrafted gelatos and sorbettos
and gelatos, including Mill-King Market &
made with many local, seasonal and organic
Creamery milk, strawberries from Sweet
ingredients. “I’m just amazed at the depth
Berry Farm in Marble Falls, Belgian choco-
that people support local food, and the
late and even Texas-grown blood oranges
knowledge the people of Austin have,” he
during citrus season. He says he first discov-
says. “I used to spend a lot of time educat-
ered the importance of using fresh ingredi-
ing people about local food—why you want
ents several years ago while experimenting
to get away from factory farming and things
with a lemon sorbetto recipe that included
of that nature. But I don’t spend nearly as
bottled lemon juice. “It was good,” he says.
much time doing that down here.”
“But then I started juicing my own lemons
ince moving to Austin nearly two years
In fact, Petersen says the only thing he
and getting Meyer lemons and zesting them
regularly has to explain to his customers is
myself and putting the lemon zest into the
what exactly gelato is. Unlike ice cream, which
sorbettos, and it was just light-years ahead
is colder (served at minus 10 to minus 20 degrees), cream-based and
of what you can get with prepackaged ingredients. I was just sold.
often mixed with some air, gelato is slightly warmer (5 to 10 degrees),
I really became an evangelist for searching out these fresh ingredi-
milk-based and slow beaten, so that almost no air is incorporated. “Ge-
ents.” —Nicole Lessin
lato is less in butterfat, less calories, but I believe you get a lot more
New World’s gelatos and sorbettos are available at several Aus-
flavor in gelato because of the process,” he notes. “[Plus,] if you’ve
tin-area locations, including Mueller Farmers’ Market, Cedar Park
ever had the difference between cold cheese and warm cheese, dairy
Farmers Market and North by Northwest Restaurant & Brewery.
is so much more flavorful when it’s a bit warmer.”
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your one-stop shop for l a c o l , y h t l a e h living
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THE HAPPINESS BUSINESS BY R H E A M A Z E
wo groggy college
to the grapes,” Smith says.
buddies hop from
“You have to start with
the basics: the right grape,
next, heading south in the
planted in the right soil,
middle of the night, deter-
in the right climate. After
mined to escape Germany’s
years of searching, I’ve
frigid temperatures. As the
found that place. Ever since
cars chug along Spain’s
that day on the train over
northeastern coastline, a
thirty years ago, I knew
young Russell Smith gazes
that someday I would end
out the window, captivated
by a Mediterranean sun-
Smith kicked off his
rise setting a line of clouds
wine career back in 1983
ablaze in gold as they pass
when he headed out to
grove upon grove of orange
California’s Napa Valley to
trees. The air finally begins
learn the ropes. He honed
to warm and the seed of a
his craft over the years at
dream is planted.
several wineries, including
Fast-forward 35 years
Joseph Phelps Vineyards
and Smith is waist-deep in
and Flora Springs in Cali-
fornia, and Becker Vine-
rows of traditional carignan
yards in Texas. Twenty
grapevines as honeybees go
years passed before he re-
about their work all around
turned to Spain for a sec-
him. Grateful for the ero-
ond visit, and it took over
sion control afforded by the
10 more years to arrive at
flowers, he pauses to close
the point he is now—with
his eyes and take in the fra-
a portfolio of four distinct
grance. “It’s like being in a
Spanish blends (a tangy
perfume store next to a saw
white, a full-bodied red
mill,” he says.
and a crisp rosé) under his
We’re in El Molar, a two-hour drive southwest from Barcelona,
Barcelona Celler label, and a vintage estate-wine labeled Celler
where the vineyards Smith acquired in 2012 bask in full sunlight,
D. Russell Smith. Currently, Smith commutes between his two fa-
and an ever-present Mediterranean breeze keeps the temperature
vorite places in the world—Austin and Spain—and spends part of
just right. The vine varieties that have grown here for hundreds
each spring, summer and fall in El Masroig, a tight-knit town of
of years are nurtured by pale pink and yellow soil with a flour-
about 400 people that’s just a short drive from the small farming
like consistency that glitters with quartz pebbles. These factors
community of El Molar.
combine to produce small berries on loose clusters, well-known characteristics of some of the world’s best wine grapes. “The most important aspect of good winemaking comes down 20
Archeologists estimate that grape cultivation first began in Spain between 5,000 and 7,000 years ago. “With a tradition of making wine in this part of Spain dating back a very long time,
“Good wine is a metaphor for a good life. You’re
Locally owned wine shop offering affordable wines for home, special events or to enjoy on our patio!
looking for balance and complexity.” —Russell Smith you can expect that the people here have it figured out,” Smith says. He solicited help from a local farmer and an oenologist— both native Catalans whose families have lived in the area for centuries. “With a new project like this, it’s important to find people who know the lay of the land,” he says. “Grapes are not the same everywhere; you have to respect tradition and listen to the locals.” Smith’s fall harvest is separated into both a traditional and a whole-berry fermentation. He also ferments grenache harvested from a nearby organic vineyard. The three types of wine he ends up with are processed as gently as possible in a small, 100-year-
1209 Rosewood Avenue, Austin, TX 78702 512-904-9056 | www.eastendwinesatx.com
old winery outfitted with basic equipment. The batches are aged about 10 months before being blended. “I keep the process as noninterventionist as possible, allowing the grapes to express themselves to their highest potential,” Smith says. This is easy, he notes, given the fact that the climate and soil have already done most of the work. “Good wine is a metaphor for a good life,” he says. “You’re looking for balance and complexity. You don’t want any one characteristic to dominate, and the goal is to allow the natural flavors and aromas of the grape to come through as pure as possible.” Once satisfied, he allows the blends to marry for several months before bottling and shipping them back home to share with Texas.
HISTORIC & AGED TO PERFECTION Wineries and Wildflowers... WOW and WHEE!
The finished product is a drinkable, quietly elegant, everyday wine that captures the essence of what Spanish wine connoisseurs have enjoyed for thousands of years, in a way that appeals to modern tastes. “Even though these are old-world wines,” he says, “my goal is to create blends that introduce a bit of classic Spanish quality in a format that’s familiar to the Texas palate.”
RAINEY STREET SKYHOUSE TOWER OPEN IN JUNE
As he prepares for a third harvest in Spain, Smith looks forward to the annual challenge of optimizing the grapes Mother Nature has to offer. “A farmer wakes up to a brand new world every morning,” he says. “It’s impossible to anticipate everything, but you have to be optimistic. I love being able to bring something handcrafted and unique into people’s lives. I’m in the happiness business…it’s what I do, and wine is my media.” Celler D. Russell Smith and Barcelona Celler Spanish wines with a Texas accent are available in fine wine departments throughout Texas. To learn more, visit russellandsusangotospain.blogspot.com
GRAB & GO • GROCERY STAPLES WINE & BEER • LOCAL PRODUCTS LUNCH SPECIALS • PATIO SEATING GOURMET DELI • CATERING
NUECES 3RD & LAVACA • 4TH & & BRAZOS 6TH & CONGRESS • 3RD
TEXAS IN THE BOTTLE
BY K R I ST I W I L L I S P H OTO G R A P H Y BY K AT E L ESU E U R
exans are very proud of the craft beer
kilning develop the colors and flavors of the
movement that has overtaken the state,
malt. “The kiln is where the magic happens as
garnering a rightful national spotlight
far as color and flavor,” says Ade.
and giving the world a taste of what it means
Other ingredients may be added, or the
to live right here, right now. And while some
kilning process might be modified to create
brewers take advantage of our abundant local
specialty malts. For example, if a brewer
ingredients to imbue their beers with a unique
wants to make a sour-style beer, such as a
Lone Star terroir, a key ingredient—specifical-
Berliner Weisse, American sour ale or lam-
ly, malt—most often comes from outside the
bic, acidulated malt is needed—requiring
state. In fact, brewers typically buy malt from
the malt house to add lactic acid during
around the globe, and it’s often made with barley grown in Canada, Europe, China and even Australia. Beer lover and homebrewer Brandon Ade contemplated this paradox and decided he wanted to provide Texas brewers with a
kilning. With the popularity of wheat-style beers, Blacklands Malt is also creating wheat malt—a natural fit for Texas because red winter wheat is already grown locally by a number of area farms.
local solution for their malt. “I knew nothing about malting, or if
Blacklands Malt already sells to homebrewers and a number
barley even grew in Texas,” says Ade. “But I knew that this was
of local breweries, including Black Star Co-op, Hops & Grain Craft
what I was meant to do.”
Brewery, Jester King Brewery, Kamala Brewing, Pinthouse Pizza Craft
Ade soon left his engineering job to found Blacklands Malt, a
Brewpub and Twisted X Brewing Company. And many Texas distill-
micro malt house outside of Leander. But before the first batch of
eries have expressed an interest in getting in on the act, too. To keep
true, 100-percent Texas-produced malt could become a reality, Ade
up with the increased demand, Ade recently doubled his storage ca-
had to learn a bit about farming and locate a local source for barley.
pacity thanks to a grant from the Austin Food & Wine Alliance.
He reached out to Texas A&M AgriLife Research and found that
With the fast-paced growth of the local beverage industry still in
few farms in Texas still grew the grain, and none grew the barley
full swing, the malt house will no doubt stay busy trying to keep up
variety used for malt.
the pace. And once the local barley is ready, Ade says he looks forward
The university partnered with Ade to find a variety of grain
to being able to offer even more of Texas in every bottle produced.
suited for Texas’s climate. They tested 30 varieties of barley at the university’s Stiles Farm Foundation in Thrall, and learned quickly that they had to plant the grain outside of the traditional season because of our state’s scorching heat. After identifying a few varieties that would thrive, Ade contracted with several farmers to grow the barley for him. “I was working with four farmers, but two of them couldn’t plant because the fields were too wet from all of the rain we had in the winter,” says Ade. “It’s been a learning experience for me. Malting is part of the farming process and we’re at the whim of Mother Nature.” Until the first harvest of local barley is ready (anticipated in late May of 2014), Ade is using Colorado barley to perfect the threestep malting process: steeping, germinating and kilning. First, the grain goes through an immersion steeping, alternately soaked in water and then drained and dried. Ade repeats this process several times over two days—constantly measuring the moisture content of the grain until it is ready for germination. The barley is then moved to the germination bed where it grows for four to six days. During this phase, Ade periodically turns the malt by hand with a shovel to keep the now sprouting roots from growing together. “You don’t want it to clump, and since we don’t have an automated system yet to turn the grain, I have to do it,” he says. “It’s pretty backbreaking work.” Finally, the grain enters the kilning phase, during which it is dried
GROW YOUR OWN BARLEY
onathan Cobb of Redemption Farm has been on a barley learning curve of late. The farmer was looking for a cover
crop to grow when he was connected to Brandon Ade and Blacklands Malt through fellow farmers. Cobb hadn’t considered growing barley, but was convinced by Ade that the crop was a good fit. Growing barley in Texas was common in the ’50s, but farmers cultivated the heartier “six-row” variety—which is higher in protein—for animal feed. No commercial operation had grown the “two-row” variety until Texas A&M AgriLife took on Ade’s challenge. Cobb has done a great deal of research about the new crop as well as learned by trial and error. Barley typically thrives in a cooler climate where it’s planted in the spring and harvested in the fall. To accommodate the Texas heat, Cobb and the other farmers shifted the planting to late fall and let the grain grow over the winter for a spring harvest. Brew Your Own Magazine (byo.com) advises home gardeners to plant at least a 10-by-10-foot plot, which yields up to 15 pounds of grain, enough for a home-malting experiment.
to stop growth. The temperature, duration and humidity levels during EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM
TITO’S FUSS-FREE THIGHS 4 chicken thighs 1 stick salted butter, cut in half Salt and black pepper, to taste Prepare the grill to medium-high heat. Place the chicken thighs on the hot grill and cook them for about 4 minutes. Flip the chicken over using tongs or a spatula then rub each thigh generously with a half stick of the butter and sprinkle liberally with salt and pepper. Flip each chicken thigh over again and repeat with the other half stick and seasonings. Turn the heat down to low and cover until the chicken thighs are completely cooked through.
TITO’S COCKTAIL REFRESHER Drop a few ice cubes into a tumbler and pour in some Topo Chico, Tito’s Handmade Vodka and a few citrus slices.
TITO BEVERIDGE BY M E R E D I T H B E T H U N E • P H OTO G RA P H Y BY K AT E L ESU EU R
fter igniting the grill on the back deck, Tito Beveridge
Beveridge dashes back inside to retrieve a stick of butter
rinses four chicken thighs with a garden hose. The tor-
from the fridge. With the wrapper still clinging, he slices it
rent of water streams onto the grass below instead of
through the center and grips one half with the tongs. Rubbing
contaminating his pristine kitchen inside. “I don’t really jack
the exposed end on the chicken, he bathes the meat in melted
around. And I don’t really get a lot of stuff dirty,” explains the
butter while avoiding another mess. “I don’t like to do stuff I
animated founder of Tito’s Handmade Vodka.
don’t have to do—like clean pans,” he says. After flipping the
Beveridge has just returned from the distillery where he goes every day when he’s in Austin. He tastes every batch and
chicken, he coats the other side with the other half stick of butter.
nothing is bottled or sold unless it meets his exacting stan-
Since Lori and the kids are currently out of town, he’s
dards. A former geophysicist and oilman from San Antonio,
shunning their favorite broccoli and green beans side dish in
Beveridge started making vodka for a couple of simple, but
favor of other vegetables. Cradling a whole head of feathery
compelling, reasons. “We drank a bunch of Wild Turkey when
bok choy in his hands, Beveridge declares with a smile, “I
I was younger…and then tequila,” he recalls with a smile. “But
don’t know how I’m supposed to cook bok choy, but I know I
then I discovered vodka was a lot easier on me. And the girls
like to cook bok choy.” He places it on the grill and arranges
we hung out with, they always liked drinking vodka, too.”
lengthwise slices of zucchini around it.
Dotted around the Beveridge property is a collection of
Returning to the kitchen, he demonstrates an easy, oil-free
roadside art—a passion built via frequent travel for work. On
salad dressing of fresh-squeezed lime juice, orange juice and a
the front lawn looms a large metal crocodile. “I love that,” Bev-
glug of Bragg Liquid Aminos. “Off the oil, on to the butter!” he
eridge says, “like when they make birds out of hose and tractor
jokes, referring to the generous stick he used on the chicken.
parts. I like folk art.” Sometimes he’ll place a newly acquired
Finally, he drops a few ice cubes into a tumbler and pours
treasure on the shelf of the living room, he says with a chuckle,
in some Topo Chico, Tito’s Handmade Vodka and leftover
“and it doesn’t necessarily stay there when I go to work.”
citrus slices from the salad dressing. In well under an hour,
Beveridge’s wife, Lori, prefers minimal decor in their airy
he’s produced a satisfying meal and a refreshing cocktail with
West Austin home—a few pieces of Mexican art, white walls,
little cleanup. “When you sit down to eat,” he says with pride
dark hardwood floors and brown leather couches. It’s spare,
and a smile, “the only thing you have to clean is your plate.”
but still cozy and approachable—perhaps even “tasteful,” as Beveridge confesses that their furniture was recently repaired after one of the family’s three dogs chewed on it. As far as other types of chewing going on in the house are concerned, Beveridge says that having a family has definitely changed his approach to cooking. “I’ve got kids,” he says while placing the chicken thighs on the sizzling hot grill. “I used to make all these complicated marinades, but they wouldn’t eat it.” He’s learned to keep things simple, and now his kids proclaim him “the best cook!” Although Beveridge eschews fussy recipes, his gregarious demeanor turns serious while explaining his grilling technique, “At the beginning, I always go high, and it kind of seals everything in,” he says. “Then I flip it over on high and add a little salt and a little pepper. Then I’ll turn it down and cook it some more to make sure it’s cooked all the way through.”
TEXAS COFFEE TRADERS BY E L I Z A B E T H W I N S LOW • P H OTO G RA P H Y BY J O A N N SA N TA N G E LO
ust like in every other modern
decided, was a good cup of coffee—
city of a certain size with hopes
something that, for many of us, is
of obtaining culinary credibil-
woven into the very fabric of our day
ity, it’s impossible to swing a single-
and integral to our social interac-
origin latte in Austin these days with-
tions. He wasn’t sure exactly how this
out hitting an artisanal coffee roaster
epiphany would eventually fit into
or a barista with exquisite pour-over
his life, but—ready for a new adven-
technique. Yet while local coffee ex-
ture—he sold everything and moved
perts, cafés and trailers may come
and go, Texas Coffee Traders sits bal-
Beall landed in the tiny communi-
anced astride the galloping charger
ty of Whitefish, Montana, and felt like
that is our growing coffee culture. It’s
he’d discovered heaven. There, he
no “new kid on the block.” Texas Cof-
opened a little general store, located
fee Traders founder and owner R.C.
a used coffee roaster and learned the
Beall has been roasting and selling
roasting ropes from Michael Sivetz—
the finest quality coffee from all over
a master roaster who is something
the world to wholesale and retail cus-
of a hero in the coffee-roasting com-
tomers since the ’70s. And over the
munity. Beall sourced coffee beans
last two decades, he’s watched—in-
from wherever he could get them,
deed influenced—Austin’s journey
and began roasting and selling them
from boilerplate joes to expertly
in his store. “There were only five to
crafted cups of the finest brew.
six brokers of good coffee at the time,
A visit to the Texas Coffee Trad-
and we worked with them all. There
ers warehouse calls to mind a kind
were no classes, no specialty coffee
of Willy Wonka’s Chocolate Factory
organization. We were pioneers in
for coffee lovers—packed floor to ceiling with beans limited and
the world of coffee.” In addition to coffee, Beall also sold firewood,
rare—organic, fair trade, direct trade, conventional and flavored—
berries, morels, tamales, bagels, cheese and homebrewing sup-
assailing guests with intense aromas. “It’s a sensory experience,”
plies, everything, he says, his customers would need throughout
Beall says. “Coffee changes your outlook, the way you experience
their day—from lighting the fire in the morning, to brewing a cup
life. We’ve got five senses—with coffee, I can push all of those but-
of coffee and eating a meal, to finishing the evening with a beer.
tons. You can see the beans, feel them in your hands, hear us grind-
“The next day, they’d need a good cup of coffee again to get going
ing them, smell the coffee roasting and brewing. The subtle differ-
after that strong homebrewed beer,” Beall says with a smile. “So I
ences in flavors and tasting notes will blow you away.”
felt like I’d figured out the secret for a successful business.” Soon,
Beall spends his days contemplating all things coffee now, but it wasn’t always this way. In the late ’70s, he was managing a golf
though, coffee sales far outpaced everything else, and his little-bitof-everything mercantile became Montana Coffee Roasters.
school he’d built in Houston. “It paid the bills—all I needed was
Life was slow in Montana, and Beall had ample space and time
beer, a bucket of balls and barbeque,” he says. But something was
to reflect on his new vocation. He went to the library and began to
missing. One day, with the lyrics to Ry Cooder’s “Feelin’ Good”
research the importance of coffee, learning that it accounted for
bouncing around in his head, Beall realized he wanted something
one-third of all drinks consumed on the planet. And he knew what
more. “I looked at everyone around me, and heard those lyrics: ‘All
was available in the U.S. at the time could be better. “There were
the money in the world is spent on feeling good,’ and I thought,
only about forty roasting houses in the entire country at that time,”
What does everyone in the world connect over?” The answer, he
he says. “And only about two brokers understood specialty coffee.”
“It’s a sensory experience. Coffee changes your outlook, the way you experience life. We’ve got five senses—with coffee, I can push all of those buttons.” —R.C. Beall a newfound supply of high-quality beans from Monteverde added to his stock, Beall could hardly keep product on the shelves. As things got busier, Beall hired seasonal workers to help keep up with demand. One of the folks was a researcher who often traveled to Russia, and when he’d go, he’d take a suitcase full of Beall’s roasted beans—opening the door to a rather unexpected twist in the story. After decades of low-quality, state-controlled food and coffee, the Russians couldn’t get enough of these fragrant beans, and thus Moscow Coffee Traders was born. The Coffee Traders team quickly installed a roaster in the Russian capital and sold coffee hand over fist to every newspaper and embassy in town, as well as to some of the city’s best restaurants. And even though Beall would eventually sell all but a small percentage of shares in Moscow Coffee Traders, he remains proud of what he started in Russia. “To this day,” he boasts, “the two best coffees in Moscow are still connected to Coffee Traders.” In the early ’90s, Beall reconnected with Beth, a friend from high school. The two eventually married and decided to set up a third Coffee Traders—this time back in Beall’s home state of TexOne of the things that had initially attracted Beall to Whitefish
as. But as the couple searched for a warehouse space in East Aus-
was its low pay / high return economy. There wasn’t much money to
tin, Beall admits that it was a bit challenging. “When we went out
be made but not much was needed, and the environment was breath-
scouting warehouse property, we ran across a guy chasing another
takingly beautiful and the people supportive. The community’s val-
guy with a bat. It felt like the frontier over here.” Of course, things
ues revolved around quality of life and an appreciation for simple
have changed quickly in that area of town, and Beall has watched
pleasures. By the late ’80s, things were quickly changing in White-
the evolution of our city with interest and concern. “As Austin got
fish, but Beall stumbled upon an echo of the old ways one winter
‘found,’ people changed,” he says. “Words didn’t always mean what
in Costa Rica while visiting a hugely successful coffee plantation.
they had meant before. On the other hand, we’ve been seeing a
He wasn’t particularly impressed by what he saw, but then he went
return to the values that are important to us—foodie, local—it all
to nearby Monteverde, a friendly, modest and growing community,
fits in with where we’ve always been and where we expect to go.
where children played freely in the fields amidst a symphony of
There’s a core group of people in Austin who care about quality of
tropical birdsong. It reminded him of his early, slower-paced White-
life, and those are our values, too. We’ll always be family-owned,
fish days, and he was eager to partner with these growers. He began
we’ll always support sustainable production and community. I
to work with them and bought almost as much as they could grow
want to be sure we are real and that what we offer contributes to
and export. Meanwhile, business continued to grow apace, and with
that everyday quality of life.” EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM
EAST END WINES BY M M PAC K • P H OTO G RA P H Y BY M E L A N I E G R I Z Z E L
From left: Sam Hovland, Matt Miller and Bill McGuire.
n the triangle lot formed by East 11th Street and Rose-
site of East End Wines. “We don't live here and the place
wood Avenue in East Austin, there’s a Victorian house
hasn’t been a residence since the seventies,” says owner Matt
that looks out over the neighborhood. This venerable
Miller. “But sometimes it feels like we’re just people in our
building, with its round, pointy-roofed turret, has witnessed
house and customers are the neighbors coming in.”
lots of change since it was built in 1890. Its first occupant was
In fact, many of the shop’s customers are the neighbors.
Harry L. Haynes, an Austin city council member for 29 years,
Miller and wine buyer Sam Hovland estimate that two-thirds
and later, it was the family home of Thomas DeLashwah, the
of the clientele live nearby, often arriving via shoe-leather or
first African-American pharmacist in Austin. Since 2010, re-
bicycle. The remainder are the wine lovers and the wine-curi-
flecting contemporary neighborhood changes, it’s been the
ous who have made this bijou shop a reason to cross town—for
the carefully selected collection of unusual and moderately priced wines, for the very personal attention offered by the proprietors
Exciting Spanish wines brought to you by an award-winning Texas winemaker.
and the sole employee Bill McGuire, and for the small wine classes and informal tastings on Friday afternoons. Miller and Hovland have been friends for 15 years. They met when Miller was a delivery driver for one of Austin’s signature wine shops, The Austin Wine Merchant, and Hovland was som-
Available in Central Texas fine wine stores.
melier at The Headliners Club. When asked if he grew up with a wine background, Miller laughs, “No, I grew up with a hay-baling background in Columbus, Texas.” But once he arrived at the University of Texas to study computer science and began working
Celler D. Russell Smith
at The Austin Wine Merchant, he wasted no time getting up to
speed—learning, he says, from some of the best palates in town. Later, he served for six years as wine steward and buyer for Central Market Westgate. East End Wines is a compatible collaboration of skills and interests shared by Miller and Hovland. “We just seem to prefer the same wines,” he says. “We’ll taste wines separately and later compare our notes to find that we often say the same things.” At first, they both tasted every single wine before adding it to the inventory, but their palates are so similar, they soon found that wasn’t necessary. Now, Hovland focuses on tasting, buying and teaching, while Miller concentrates on the nuts and bolts of running the business. Their current collection includes wines from across the globe but has a distinct Eurocentric bent; the list fluctuates—they work with 50 distributors, many representing obscure family wineries. “Everything about our business reflects our values. Our personalities are stamped on our wines,” says Hovland, a certified sommelier who’s been in the business for more than 20 years. He’s responsible
Rent a fully-loaded picnic basket for the perfect day out!
for the wine lists of several past and present Austin restaurants, including Swift’s Attic and the upcoming Wu Chow, as well for as the Headliners Club. “We run the shop as if it were a great restaurant wine list. We focus on wines that go well with food, and our goal is to offer great examples of each type of wine we carry at affordable price points.” A key word is “affordable”—the average bottle price is $18—and Hovland says there are only 100 wines over $35. “We normally keep around eight hundred wines on our list, and we’re not planning on increasing much. Eight hundred is about all I can keep straight in my head, and this is a small place—we almost make wines fight for their spots on the shelf. While we may love a wine, if the customers
4220 Duval Street | (512) 531-9610
don’t, it doesn’t stay on the list.” “We help people find the words to describe what they like in a wine and then point them to suitable matches,” continues Hovland. “There are a number of regulars who trust our tastes and ask us to put together mixed cases. Once we understand what they like, they know we’ll provide the best of those types.” Even with the steady stream of new and repeat customers, Miller asserts they want to grow the business slowly. “We’re try-
PAIR with FRIENDS.
ing to build our reputation one-on-one with customers, but we’ve already grown beyond our expectations,” he says. “We’re about serious, well-made, food-friendly wines with good value. These are available if you know where to look, and that’s what we’re here for.”
K&S SEAFOOD BY C L A I R E C E L L A • P H OTO G RA P H Y BY D UST I N M EY E R
hen you think of fresh seafood, cities such as New Or-
ders have almost become a necessity: strolling up to the K&S booth
leans, Seattle and Boston probably come to mind, yet
after noon on a Sunday ensures disappointment and a whiteboard
poor landlocked and drought-prone Austin typically
laundry list of delicacies—such as shrimp, oysters, crab claws,
doesn’t. Scott and Kim Treaster—the husband and wife team behind
lump crabmeat, amberjack, black drum, flounder, mahi mahi, Span-
K&S Seafood—are trying very hard to change that, ice chest by ice
ish mackerel, snapper and tuna—struck through with black lines.
chest, market by market, weekend by weekend.
And it’s like that every weekend. Scott says his now-bustling
It appears that locals have taken the bait. The Treasters offer up
business started in 2008 as two modest roadside bait stands, in both
freshly procured, sped-to-market gulf fish at Austin-area farmers
Georgetown and Wimberley, equipped with tables, a few A-frame
markets, and many customers have even begun calling or texting in
signs and some coolers packed full of ice and fresh gulf seafood.
advance to reserve their own catch on market days. In fact, preor-
But one weekend, Kim asked her husband for a few extra pounds
of shrimp for coworkers at the
el! This is work that doesn’t feel
brokerage firm where she works.
This one delivery led to recur-
The Treasters say that 70- to
ring requests for more. “Their
75-percent of their customers are
enthusiasm really planted the
repeat customers, and that this
seed for us to think: Hey, this isn't
year they’re up 30- to 35-percent
such a bad idea. We can do this
in sales over last. "I serve their
every week!” says Scott. “I had
tuna raw in the middle,” says
one lady tell me: ‘You know, I'd
frequent buyer, Marfa resident
go to the coast myself, but it's a
and Marfa Table supper club
lot cheaper and easier for me to
chef/owner, Bridget Weiss. “I'll
just get [shrimp] from you now!’”
buy a loin or a half a loin—a big
Scott and Kim quickly real-
chunk—and I get a grill or a skil-
ized the demand they could fill
let really hot and place the tuna
by broadening their customer base and bringing seafood to the city
down on that, rotate it and get a little bit of color on each side, let it
straight from the source. They set up a market booth at the Cedar
sit, slice it so that it's cold in the center. My favorite way to dress it
Park Farmers Market and the results were immediate and intense.
is by blending mild chili pasillas, freshly harvested coriander seed,
“I remember, one of the last times I sold on the side of the road in
local garlic, lemon zest and unsalted butter into a paste and coating
Wimberley was a Friday,” says Scott. “The next day, Kim had started
the fish. But honestly, sometimes when I get home, the first thing I
selling, just for the second time, at the market and I was actually on
do is just cut off a slice, add some salt and just eat it. It's that good."
my way out to Wimberley to sell. But she called me and said ‘I'm al-
"I’m from the East Coast, originally, so I'm used to buying fish
ready sold out!’ It had only been an hour into the market! So I quickly
and crabs straight off the back of trucks,” says Evie Hiatt, another
turned around and brought my stock to her and sold everything. It
regular customer. “[Scott and Kim’s] stuff tastes just like that. I just
would have taken me all day at the stand to sell that, if even.”
bought their scallops recently with a recipe in mind for the grill,
Now, every Thursday at dawn, Scott drives to the Gulf where
but when I got them home and saw how big, beautiful and fresh
he personally inspects and selects freshly caught gulf fish from the
they were, I decided to just slice them, add a bit of lemon and olive
bows of trusted fishermen’s boats. “I’m there, handling it, looking
oil drizzle and some fresh herbs and served them as a cold appe-
at it, and thus able to control the quality,” he says. “If I’m looking
tizer. I think fish is best left plain; you shouldn't over-complicate it.
at it and I wouldn’t eat it, it won’t go to market.” And the Treasters
Great things should be left simple."
certainly know a good fish when they see one; Scott’s childhood
Glowing praises aside, the couple looks forward to introducing
was spent casting lines up and down the coastline, from Seadrift
the next big idea for expansion—providing small, prepared food
to Port Arthur, and Kim was raised fishing with her parents and
items at their market stands, such as ceviche, cocktail sauce and
grandparents in Maui, Hawaii. In fact, freshness and quality are
boiled shrimp. Whatever the future holds, rest assured their cus-
such important facets of the K&S business model that Scott says
tomers will be onboard—hook, line and sinker.
they’ll never save and sell anything left over from a market. “Fresh
Find K&S Seafood every Saturday at the Cedar Park Farmers
is fresh,” he says. “Fresh isn’t a week old. If it’s left over, I’m eating
Market and the Barton Creek Farmers Market, as well as the
it,” he says with a chuckle.
Mueller Farmers’ Market on Sundays.
The Treasters take full advantage of the diverse Texas Gulf Coast ecosystem—but they also support the Texas Parks and Wildlife’s efforts to protect fish populations by keeping a watchful eye on overfishing trends. And while the vast bulk of their business
depends on the seafood that lives naturally in the bays and offshore
waters of the Texas Gulf, Scott and Kim occasionally fly in overnight deliveries of more exotic catches that aren’t always available locally—salmon and halibut from Alaska, for instance, and most recently trout from Idaho. Scott is quick to say he feels fortunate to have been able to abandon the grind of his former construction business to pursue the
1 c. teriyaki sauce* 1 t. wasabi paste 1 t. sesame oil 1 t. finely chopped fresh ginger
1 t. finely chopped fresh garlic 2 tuna steaks (about ½ lb. each) Salt and pepper, to taste
ing at the water. It’s a lot of work, but it’s over on Sunday afternoon,
Mix the first 5 ingredients in a medium saucepan. Simmer on medium heat for 10 to 15 minutes until reduced. Remove from the pan and keep warm. Wash the tuna thoroughly and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Grill the tuna on medium to high heat for 1 to 2 minutes on each side. (Or sear in a skillet on medium to high heat with 2 tablespoons olive oil for 1 to 2 minutes on each side.) Top the hot tuna steaks with the teriyaki sauce mixture and serve.
[then] I’m going to go home and cook snapper and Spanish macker-
* Can make from scratch if desired—find recipe at edibleaustin.com
work he loves. And Kim plays an integral role in the business, too— she manages their stand at the Barton Creek Farmers Market on Saturday mornings and keeps things running smoothly when Scott goes to the coast each week. “My office could be in a building from nine to five, but no,” says Scott with a wry smile. “With my job, I’m look-
SNAPPER FILLETS WITH MANGO SALSA Serves 2 For the salsa: 1 medium to large mango, peeled and diced 3–4 Roma tomatoes, diced ¼ c. chopped red onion ¼ c. chopped fresh cilantro 1–2 medium jalapenos, finely chopped 1 T. fresh lime juice For the snapper: 2 medium to large snapper fillets, skin on, washed and patted dry Olive oil Salt and pepper, to taste Make the salsa: Mix all of the salsa ingredients together in a medium bowl, cover and chill at least 20 to 30 minutes. Serve on top or alongside the hot grilled snapper. Make the snapper: Place the snapper fillets in foil and lightly coat each side of the fillets with olive oil, salt and pepper. Grill on medium heat for 20 minutes until cooked through (the fish should be white and flaky).
CRAB-STUFFED FLOUNDER Serves 2 This recipe comes from Scott’s grandmother, with whom Scott spent a considerable amount of time as a young boy fishing and crabbing off the coast of Port Arthur. Although the recipe is more time-consuming than the others, Kim insists that the results are well worth the effort. 1 whole flounder (1½–2 lbs.), cleaned, scaled and gutted Olive oil
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Make the stuffing: Melt the butter in a saucepan. Add the celery, onions and garlic and sauté until soft. Remove from the heat and stir in the crabmeat, breadcrumbs and salt and pepper, to taste.
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Stuff the crabmeat mixture into the prepared flounder and bake for 35 to 40 minutes.
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1 c. crabmeat ½ c. bread crumbs Salt and pepper, to taste
Prepare the flounder for stuffing: Cut a slit in the fish lengthwise, down the center. (The fish should be white side down and eyes up.) Place the flounder on a foil-lined baking sheet, rub with olive oil and preheat the oven to 400°.
For the crab stuffing:
Note: This dish can also be prepared using flounder fillets: Wash 2 flounder fillets and place the thicker of the two on a foillined baking sheet. Prepare the crab stuffing and place on top of the bottom fillet. Cover with the second fillet. Sprinkle with 1 teaspoon paprika, salt and pepper and bake at 400° for 30 to 35 minutes. Find more recipes from Scott and Kim Treaster at edibleaustin.com
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AUSTIN BEERWORKS BY L AY N E V I CTO R I A LY N C H • P H OTO G RA P H Y BY K N OXY
hile it takes some people years of kicking back frosty
Belgian-made beverages while there, he became inspired to shelve
mugs of adequate, mass-produced beer to develop an
his artistic pursuits and begin a lasting love affair with all things
appreciation for high-quality craft brew, Will Golden—
hops and grain. “It sounds cliché,” Golden admits, “but I really
cofounder and head brewer at Austin Beerworks—discovered his
didn’t know beer could taste that good. We drank in the Nether-
affection for malty, artisanal beverages at just twenty-one years old.
lands, Germany, the Czech Republic…and in Belgium, I tried this
While an aspiring art history student, Golden took a European
unbelievable Belgian strong golden ale. By the end of the trip, I
trip through Shepherd University with the hopes of learning more about art restoration. But shortly after indulging in a debauchery of 34
knew my plans. I was going into brewing.” At the time, it may have seemed Golden was simply chasing one
of those relatable-but-flighty 20-something dreams that everyone
considers at one point but later dismisses once they come to their
better senses. But it was, in fact, the opposite for Golden, who returned home and immediately accepted a job at Maryland’s Fred-
erick Brewing Company—climbing his way from the ground up, literally. “I was scrubbing floors and cleaning tanks,” he says. “It
wasn’t glamorous work, but I took such pride and respect in what we were creating. At the end of the day, we knew we were making
an awesome product that people loved.” Through the years, Golden worked his way up the brewing ladder, eventually becoming the head brewer at the Maryland brewery, which, by then, had been purchased by Flying Dog, a more prominent, nationally recognized brand. The mega brewery purchased the small beverage factory, growing it by leaps and bounds to eventually produce more than 80 different beers at any given time. But that significant success created a difficult choice for Golden, who was torn between continuing to work for a contending brand or bowing out to maintain the quality and integrity of the hands-on brewing he strongly believed in. In the end, Golden left to become the head brewer of a small brewery pub in Maryland—returning to the roots of small-batch
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brewing for the next four years. While the decision was unconI saw it as an opportunity to have true grain-to-glass control,” he
says. “I took a lot of pride in what I was doing. I was writing my
ventional, Golden never regretted making the switch. “In my eyes,
own recipes, testing my own batches, and it turned out to be one of the most creative periods in my life.” It was a fateful conversation with Golden’s former Flying Dog coworker Adam DeBower in 2010 that roused the idea behind Austin
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Beerworks. Ready to break out on his own after working for Real Ale Brewery, DeBower proposed that he, Golden and two business partners—Mike McGovern and Michael Graham—strike while the iron was hot and open a craft brewery right in the thick of North Austin where the local beer scene was quickly evolving. “The funny thing was that Austin was already drinking great beer, but the options were limited since it was only being made by a handful of places, such as Real Ale and Live Oak,” says Golden. “We saw this as an opportunity to do beer in our own style.” In May 2011, Austin Beerworks launched its business in a 30-barrel warehouse, and over a three-year span, has turned its bold brand into one of
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the fastest-growing craft breweries in the country according to the Brewers Association. The company has cultivated a team of 24 full-time employees, which produces a small-but-stellar family of beers that have won both national awards and local fanfare—including Black Thunder, a German-style Schwarzbier with strong malty, roasted undertones; Peacemaker, a light English pale ale that Golden describes as the perfect anytime beer; Fire Eagle, a bold, West Coast-style IPA made with aggressive, U.S.-grown hops; and best-selling Pearl Snap, a refreshing, German-style, cold-fermented bitter beer that embodies the spirit of Austin. “Honestly, we thought the Peacemaker would outsell them all, but our local customers have really taken to the Pearl Snap; that beer comprises about forty percent of
our overall sales.” At least once a month, Austin Beerworks also features limited releases in a special IPA series; Golden believes hosting this affair encourages creativity and innovation within the brewery team. What’s more, the Austin Beerworks beers are housed in sleek, well-designed aluminum cans as opposed to longneck glass bottles, which Golden says allows oxygen and light to transform craft brew to “skunky.” The brewery’s exquisite attention to detail from draft to design has paid off: Austin Beerworks grew sales by 400 percent in its first year of business, 100 percent in its second, and is on track to grow 50 percent by year’s end. As Golden and his business partners look forward, it’s clear they’ll soon have to discuss making some colossal decisions, such as adding new flavors and tracking down extra brewing space. Yet, one thing is certain when it comes to gazing
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toward the horizon: Austin Beerworks will not be reducing its continuing commitment to craft quality. “We’re allowing the company to grow organically,” Golden says. “We definitely have some big plans for the future, but they’ll happen when they’re supposed to.”
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From left: Jim Johnson, Dan Gatlin, Don Pullum, Kim McPherson, Greg Bruni, Raymond Haak at Perissos Vineyards in Burnet County BEVERAGE 2014
THE TEXAS TERROIRISTS TRAILBLAZERS IN THE EVOLUTION OF TEXAS WINE BY T E R RY T H O M PSO N -A N D E RSO N P H OTO G RA P H Y BY SA N DY W I LSO N
erroir is often described as a “sense of place”—be it geographical, climatic, topographical or cultural—that’s imbued into things that are grown or produced in a certain
region. It’s always been the main focus of the wine industry in France, but that hasn’t always been the case for the Texas wine industry. “When we started planting grapes,” says Ed Auler who, along with his wife, Susan, founded Fall Creek Vineyards, one of Texas’ earliest modern wineries, “we didn’t have any established traditions to follow. We knew about the successful wine industry in California, and we planted what they did: chardonnay, merlot and cabernet sauvignon. Only, in Texas, the results were a hitand-miss bag. Then, we began to assemble our own body of data, and to consider the issue of terroir.” To take full advantage of Texas’ unique sense of place, Auler and a determined group of winemakers and grape growers set out to discover the right kinds of grapes and growing techniques for the many regions of Texas. As a result, the group—think of them as terroirists—has logged almost 40 years of exhaustive and costly research and experimentation that now has our state firmly planted on the path to becoming one of the world’s premier wine-producing regions. In essence, they’ve drawn the map for grape growing in Texas.
KIM MCPHERSON Kim McPherson—Texas’ longest tenured winemaker and owner of McPherson Cellars, in Lubbock—grew up in the Texas wine industry. His dad, Clinton “Doc” McPherson, a chemistry professor at Texas Tech University, is known as one of the fathers of the modern Texas wine industry, and,
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along with Bob Reed, a horticulture professor, founded Llano Estacado Winery. After graduating from Texas Tech, Kim went to California, where he obtained a degree in oenology and viticulture from the University of California, Davis. After working a stint in California, Kim returned to Texas to become the winemaker at Llano Estacado. From the very beginning—when other Texas winemakers were
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emulating California—Kim preached “planting to the land,” or growing the right grapes for the region. He’s championed the Mediterranean and Rhône varietals, which have proven to be capable of thriving and producing great wines here, and he introduced the Spanish sangiovese to Texas, where it remains one of his signature varietals. He still uses the sangiovese grapes from his father’s original Sagmore Vineyard in the Texas High Plains, where the vines are approaching 40 years old.
DAN GATLIN Dan Gatlin, along with his wife, Rose Mary, founded Inwood Estates Vineyards. Gatlin’s parents owned a large chain of beverage stores in Dallas and Fort Worth,
.. asons to… So many re
and he grew up in the fine beverage indus-
o Visit Blanc
try—traveling the world with his father, visiting the great châteaus of France and
EAT – SH OP – STA Y
learning the intricacies of wine. Dan’s
early experience with wine was from a retail perspective, but he cites a visit to one of the greatest French wineries, Petrus, as his epiphany moment.
There, he had the honor of spending an entire day with the winemaker—visiting the vineyards, the production facilities, the cellars. As a result, it occurred to Dan that he could do the same in Texas. “We’d just have to do like they’d done in France,” he says, “and
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grow the right varietals for the terroir.” He began a 25-year experiment—planting over 40 varietals in vari-
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ous vineyards in the northern part of the state and in the Texas High Plains. He concluded that Mediterranean and Rhône varietals were right for Texas, and he was the first to plant tempranillo here. His early tempranillo-cabernet sauvignon blends gained a following among cab lovers, and the tempranillo grape continues to garner the spotlight. Dan’s retail wine background came in handy as the driving force behind Inwood wines, which gained early popularity on high-end Texas restaurant wine lists and set the stage for other Texas wineries.
GREG BRUNI Also raised in the wine business, Greg Bruni left his native California in 1993 to become the vice president and winemaker at Llano Estacado Winery. Bruni brought a wealth of knowledge to the Texas
wine industry, as his family had founded the esteemed San Martin Winery in California. And when he first visited the Llano Estacado Winery and the Texas High Plains, he saw the same type of challenge in the fledgling industry that existed years ago in California. He relished the idea of becoming a key player in shaping the future of Texas wines, and he began by concentrating on many of the Italian varietals of his heritage—introducing a lusty Montepulciano to the winery’s lineup and creating the first of the Super Tuscan-style blends that he called Viviano. Both wines have gained an enthusiastic following over the years, and the winemaking
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Several years ago, Wine Spectator referred to Jim Johnson as “a reliable guide to the future of Texas wine.” Johnson had worked in Texas oil early in his career, but, like many Texans in the wake of the great oil bust, he found himself looking for another line of work. He worked at a retail
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wine store in Houston for a few years during the infancy of the Texas wine industry, and the shop often hosted tastings of those wines. Johnson tasted and evaluated the various wines against wines from other regions of the country and the world, and his conclusion was that Texas could do better. He headed to the University of California, Davis, where he graduated with honors and a degree in oenology and viticulture. But after working at three of California’s top wineries, Johnson returned to Texas to become the winemaker at Slaughter-Leftwich Vineyards in Austin. Together with his new wife, Karen, he purchased land in Bend and planted the Tio Pancho Ranch in 1996, using the Mediterranean and Rhône varietals he knew were right for the Texas terroir: viognier, sangiovese, ruby cabernet and cabernet sauvignon. Johnson added tempranillo in 1998, and the Johnsons’ Alamosa Wine Cellars was the first Texas winery to produce it. His El Guapo blend became an instant hit with chefs and consumers, yet Johnson believes we’ve only scratched the surface of experimenting with hot-weather grape varietals.
RAYMOND HAAK When Raymond Haak first announced that he would open a winery in Santa Fe, Texas—a mere 12 miles from the Gulf of Mexico—it was viewed as a truly foolhardy endeavor. But Raymond had done his homework over the last 25 years—beginning in 1969, when his wife, Gladys, brought home two grapevines from a local nursery. For their newly built Haak Vineyards and Winery, the Haaks selected two varietals of native American grapes: blanc du bois and Lenoir. The varietals were, as yet, untried in the large-scale EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM
production of quality wines in Texas, but
lemon peel that followed through on the
they were hardy, drought-tolerant and dis-
palate, ending with a streak of minerals
ease-resistant. When the winery opened
that hinted at the wine’s terroir.
in 2000, Raymond released a port-style
Many years later, after a career as a
wine made from the Lenoir grape, and
both a dry and off-dry white wine from the
Pullum left the corporate world and
blanc du bois. Former Houston Chronicle
began to search for a place to grow
wine columnist Michael Lonsford traveled
grapes. He discovered the rich, Hickory
to the winery to taste these new wines,
Sandstone soil in Mason County where
and subsequently wrote a glowing review,
he planted his Akashic Vineyard with
which quickly garnered the wines a huge following. In 2003, Ray-
Rhône and Mediterranean varietals. As he watched the grapes
mond produced his first Old World-style Madeira from the Jacquez
flourish and eventually produce excellent wines for Sandstone
(Lenoir) grape, which won 14 medals. In 2006, he produced a sec-
Cellars Winery, he began to envision a wine culture in Mason
ond Madeira from the blanc du bois grape, which has also won
County. He encouraged other grape growers to plant hot-weather
numerous medals in worldwide competition. Raymond’s pioneer
varietals like tempranillo, alicante bouschet and touriga nacional—a
research and success with these two hardy, native American grapes
Portuguese varietal from which he produced Texas’s first wine made
has led to a statewide explosion of wines produced from them—
from 100 percent touriga grapes. Today, his dream is becoming a re-
even at high-end wineries.
ality as Mason County grapes are known for producing high-quality, elegant, sought-after wines with finesse. There are now 12 vineyards
in Mason County—with two more on the way—and three award-
Grape grower and winemaker Don Pullum vividly recalls his
first taste of wine at the tender age of 16. He was at the home of a
Texas has been richly blessed by the efforts of all of these
good friend whose father was a lover of fine wine. The wine was
dedicated—often dogged—terroirists who have invested much
a small pour of a Chablis Premier Cru from the estate of Albert
to develop the Texas wine palate. The industry is healthy and
Pic. He knew that it tasted good, but, at the time, he lacked the
growing, gaining worldwide attention and now very much a reflec-
knowledge to describe the taste as having a bouquet of pear and
tion of our unique sense of place.
This exhibition is organized by the Blanton Museum of Art, with support from the Department of Art and Art History, The University of Texas at Austin. Funding for the exhibition is provided in part by William and Bettye Nowlin. Left: Moche culture, Peru, 200-800 CE, Stirrup spout bottle of blind figure, ceramic, 8 7⁄10 in. high, photo by Mark Menjivar, courtesy Landmarks, The University of Texas at Austin
Blanton Museum of Art / The University of Texas at Austin / MLK at Congress / 512.471.7324 / www.blantonmuseum.org
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ROASTED CARROTS AND RED QUINOA WITH GRILLED HALLOUMI AND AVOCADO Serves 4–6
For the vinaigrette: 4 T. Champagne vinegar ½ c. olive oil ½ t. ground cumin 1 t. paprika
For the salad: 1 small bunch baby carrots (not faux baby carrots in a bag), scrubbed, trimmed, cut lengthwise Olive oil for roasting 5 oz. halloumi cheese, cut into large ½-inch slices Olive oil for grilling 2 c. cooked red quinoa 2–3 oz. baby arugula 4 T. minced chives 1 large avocado, peeled, pitted, cut into ½-inch pieces Salt and freshly ground pepper Prepare the vinaigrette: Combine the ingredients in a jar with a tight-fitting lid and shake vigorously until emulsified. Prepare the salad: Preheat oven to 400°. Drizzle the carrots with olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Place them on a baking sheet and roast until the edges are beginning to caramelize but the carrots still have some crunch. Set aside to cool. Brush the halloumi with olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Grill in a cast-iron grill pan until grill marks appear. Flip and grill on the other side. Set aside and, when slightly cooled, cut into ¼-inch strips on the diagonal. In a large bowl, combine the carrots, halloumi, quinoa, arugula and chives. Add the vinaigrette and toss thoroughly. Place on a serving platter or in a salad bowl, season to taste with salt and pepper, add avocado and toss again gently to serve. This salad keeps and travels well, but add avocado just before serving.
GRILLED PEACHES WITH BASIL, BURRATA AND PROSCIUTTO Serves 4–6 For the vinaigrette: 4 T. white balsamic vinegar 1 t. honey ½ c. olive oil
For the salad: 4 medium to large peaches, cut in half, pitted Olive oil for grilling Salt and freshly ground pepper 1 bunch basil, leaves only, washed and spun dry 6–8 oz. burrata cheese, torn into 2- to 3-inch pieces 6 thin slices prosciutto, torn into 2- to 3-inch pieces Prepare the vinaigrette: Combine the ingredients in a jar with a tight-fitting lid and shake vigorously until emulsified. Prepare the salad: Brush the cut sides of the peaches with olive oil and season lightly with salt. Grill the peaches, cutside down, over medium-hot coals or in a cast-iron grill pan over high heat. When grill marks appear, turn over the peach halves and grill briefly on the skin side—about 1 to 3 minutes. Cool the peaches slightly, then cut each half into two pieces. Arrange on a serving platter and tuck basil leaves, prosciutto and burrata pieces around. Drizzle the salad with the vinaigrette and season to taste with salt and freshly ground pepper.
FIND ADDITIONAL SALAD RECIPE AT EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM: PEANUT NOODLES WITH CRUNCHY VEGETABLES
ust when warmer temperatures and longer days suggest fore-
surprise elements of intensely flavored cheeses and toasted nuts,
going long-simmered soups and hearty casseroles in favor
then dressed with homemade vinaigrettes will make you forget all
of cool summer salads, lettuce bolts in Central Texas fields
about leafy greens. These recipes are great for do-ahead gatherings
and fresh, tender greens are off the table. No worries, though—
and pack up beautifully for lunch-on-the-go or a picnic. Lovely as
some of the best salads have nothing to do with lettuce. Inventive
side dishes alongside roast chicken or grilled fish, they are all also
combinations of crunchy, market-sourced fruits and vegetables,
hearty enough to make a meal—especially when paired with a loaf
toothsome grains, bright herbs and healthy legumes, studded with
of crusty bread and a chilled bottle of rosé.
FATTOUSH Serves 4–6 For the vinaigrette: 2 T. red wine vinegar 2 T. freshly squeezed lemon juice ½ c. olive oil For the salad: 1 pt. cherry tomatoes, cut in half (a mix of colors is nice) 1 small sweet bell pepper, cut into ½-inch pieces 1 large, or 2 small, cucumbers, cut into ½-inch pieces 1 small bunch radishes, quartered 4 T. minced parsley ¼ c. pitted kalamata olives, cut in half 1 large pita bread, broken or cut into 2-inch pieces, tossed with olive oil and toasted until golden 4–5 oz. feta cheese, cut into ½-inch pieces Salt and freshly ground pepper Prepare the vinaigrette: Combine the ingredients in a jar with a tight-fitting lid and shake vigorously until emulsified.
GRILLED SUMMER SQUASH WITH LENTILS, HERBS AND TOASTED PUMPKIN SEEDS Serves 4–6 For the vinaigrette: 4 T. red wine vinegar 1 t. whole-grain mustard ½ c. olive oil For the salad: 3 medium summer squash (yellow crookneck or zucchini) Olive oil for grilling Salt and freshly ground pepper 2 c. lentils, cooked al dente, drained and cooled ¼ c. toasted pumpkin seeds ½ c. mixed chopped herbs (basil, parsley, mint, chives, chervil and marjoram are all great) Prepare the vinaigrette: Combine the ingredients in a jar with a tight-fitting lid and shake vigorously until emulsified. Prepare the salad: Cut the squash in half lengthwise, brush the cut sides with olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Grill the squash, cut-side down, over medium-hot coals, or in a castiron grill pan over high heat. When grill marks appear, turn over the squash and grill the skin side briefly—about 1 to 3 minutes. Cool the squash slightly, then cut into ½-inch slices on the diagonal. Place the lentils into a large bowl, add the squash, herbs, pumpkin seeds and vinaigrette and toss thoroughly.
Prepare the salad: Combine all ingredients in a large bowl except the feta, add the vinaigrette and toss to combine thoroughly. Place on a serving platter or in a salad bowl, add the feta and toss gently to combine. Add salt and pepper, to taste, and toss again to serve.
THE BURNET ROAD CRAWL BY L ES M C G E H E E • P H OTO G RA P H Y BY W H I T N EY A ROST EGU I
irst of all, it’s pronounced BURNit, like “Durn it.” Good old Burnet Road—from 45th Street clear out to the edge of Highway 183, your abandoned and shedding billboards and vintage strips now hopscotch with the stacked flats that have quickly become the residential sentinels lining so many Austin streets. Within the fold, new kids, like Noble Sandwich Co., Apothecary, Juiceland and Pinthouse Pizza vie for elbow room with beloved eateries like Fonda San Miguel, Top Notch Hamburgers, Enchiladas Y Mas and The Frisco. To experience the true beating heart of this part of town, though, you’ll need to visit the trifecta of jewels firmly ensconced in the Violet Crown of the Burnet Road corridor: Ginny’s Little Longhorn Saloon, Lala’s Little Nugget and Buddy’s Place. 52
Austin has been kind to these old-guard businesses, and they’ve been kind to Austin—nurturing entire communities for decades and providing a through line of consistency, welcome and warmth that is the foundation of the area’s magic. These watering holes are the community and cultural headwaters, backwaters and comforting leaky faucets—frequently finding themselves standing, often unfairly, toe-to-toe with city regulations, and tightly clinging to their grandfatheredin statuses. Within their walls, it’s possible to see the family resemblance of new Austin to old Austin—the veritable DNA of Austinism. Here’s our suggestion for a Burnet Road crawl, starting at far out and ending at farther out.
Ginny’s Little Longhorn Saloon 5434 Burnet Rd., 78756 Monday–Wednesday, 5 p.m.–12 a.m. Thursday–Saturday, 5 p.m.–1 a.m. Sunday, 2 p.m.–10 p.m.
Everybody’s here…even us chickens
beaming dad proudly shows his grown sons around his fa-
some friends (he wanted it to look like a church). Of course, Kalmbach
vorite old bar while a couple in the corner converses in
is still around and present many days, and still beloved and addressed,
German and soaks up the atmosphere reverently and wide-
respectfully, by name. “Everyone seems to appreciate the fact that the
eyed. Up at the bar counter, there’s a mash-up conversation among
place is saved,” says David. “You know, it’s a labor of love. Everyone
patrons that drifts easily from an unexpected encounter with Deb-
sees that we’re giving our all to it, as much as we can to it.”
bie Harry at the recent South By Southwest music festival to the
Terry is also building a new business model by extending a
distinct expression on namesake Ginny Kalmbach’s face in the
handshake across parking blocks to their neighbors who serve food.
large portrait that occupies a coveted spot above the bar. Mean-
Ginny’s patrons can now order from eateries like Lucy’s Fried Chick-
while, Alvin Crow, Speedy Sparks, Matt Hubbard and other Aus-
en and Threadgill’s (Noble Sandwich Co. is in the works), and the
tin Hall of Fame musicians start filing in for a gig under the name
happy neighbors will even walk the food over to the saloon. The
“Texas Mavericks.” There’s no cover, drinks are only a buck or two
fabric of community surrounding Ginny’s is so thick, in fact, that the
and by all accounts, it’s just another Monday night at Ginny’s Little
neighboring cafes (including Taco Deli) have even donated heavy-
duty picnic tables to accommodate the late afternoon tailgate-like at-
The bar’s history is steeped in family, tradition and generosity.
mosphere that spills out of the bar into the back lot as patrons enjoy
It was opened as Dick’s Little Longhorn Saloon in 1963 by Dick
another thing that makes Ginny’s a most unique treasure: Chicken
Setliff. Kalmbach worked there as a bartender, and the bar was
Shit Bingo on Sundays from four to eight. (Welcome to Austin.)
eventually bequeathed to her in the early ’60s because of the kind-
That’s right, lively chickens can often be heard clucking and
ness she’d shown the owners. Many harmonious years later, when
humming just outside the propped-open back door of Ginny’s as
Ginny’s was ready for some gentle TLC, it was family that came
they warm up for the games that draw thousands of fans from all
to the rescue in the form of husband and wife team Terry and Da-
over Allandale, Austin in general, and around the globe—not only
vid Gaona, and Terry’s brother Dale Watson, the internationally
for the bingo, but for the accompanying, and always free, chili dog
famous Austin-based musician. The bar had fallen into financial
buffet. A large rectangle of plywood painted with bingo tiles is
straits earlier that year and Watson had always had a special place
placed over a couple of tables and topped with a chicken-wire en-
in his heart for Ginny’s; it was his first booking in Austin in ’93. The
closure. Then a chicken is placed inside. You can probably figure
trio thought that purchasing the bar was just the right thing to do.
out the rest. “A lot of times we end up puttin’ both of [the chickens]
Terry currently manages the place and books the music, David
into the same cage,” says David. “Makes it fun and gives it a little
helps out and Watson has been an active facet for decades—not only
more excitement. And [the chickens] love the crowds and the mu-
performing there but contributing unique touches, like the steeple he
sic—they’re very social,” Terry adds. “Ginny had one that followed
had installed on the building so that he could officiate a wedding for
her like a little puppy dog.” EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM
When asked lightheartedly if the bingo games are regulated by the World Bank or the federal government, Terry is quick to say
Lala’s Little Nugget 2207 Justin Ln., 78757
that “No, Chicken Shit Bingo’s not lottery, even though we call it
Tuesday–Saturday, 4 p.m.–2 a.m.
bingo, because none of the money goes to the house. All the money
Closed Sunday and Monday, and from 12/25–1/1
donated for tickets goes to the winner. It’s a game the community plays and someone wins; none of it goes to the bar.” In light of the game’s huge popularity, we wondered why every bar doesn’t adopt a similar fun-with-animals-and-excrement-like model. “There’s too much respect for Ginny—and Dale,” David replies. “And we’ve been doing it for so long that Ginny’s is known for it all over the world. We meet people all the time that heard about it—sometimes from Dale’s touring in Europe or something—and had to come here to experience it.”
dozen or so blocks north of Ginny’s, it’s four in the afternoon and Andy Williams is finishing “It’s the Most Wonderful Time of the Year” on the jukebox while candy-colored
lights reflect off of Bloody Marys on the bar. It’s Christmas, March 2014. It was Christmas yesterday, too. And we can all rest safe in the
On any given night at Ginny’s, you might stumble upon local
knowledge that it will be Christmas tomorrow—unless, of course,
musical hard-hitters, like Two Hoots and a Holler or Redd Volkaert,
it’s December 25th or something and the place is closed. Relax now,
and preshow, there’s a jukebox that would make Ernest Tubb scoot
though, and soak in the ever-present Yule-tinged warmth that is
a boot—all in a space full of gentle respect and joy that’s about as
Lala’s Little Nugget.
big as a double garage. “It’s about community and everybody com-
The bar has barely been open 10 minutes and one of the elves on
ing and having fun,” says Terry. “We get all the camaraderie and
the strings attached to the front door drops down, then disappears
all of our neighbors and, you know, just enjoy every day with our
again. Don has walked in and let out a hearty “Shhhhh!” to the still-
patrons. And it brings money to this part of town. That’s also why
quiet atmosphere. Before Don even makes it up to the bar, Sarah
we keep our prices low and [offer] free entry—so that people use
the bartender has already readied his cold can of Budweiser and
their money to tip the bands and tip the bartenders.”
his personal saltshaker. Sprinkling some salt on the lip of the can before each drink, Don proceeds to boldly discuss, to no one in par-
GINNY’S LITTLE LONGHORN SALOON’S FAMOUS CHICKEN SHIT BINGO CHILI DOG BUFFET Courtesy of Terry Gaona Feeds many
ticular, his military service and the details about his recent myocardial infarction. Everyone here appears to know and like Don, and in a way, all bar-going Austinites probably know some form of a Don. These stalwart bar communities are like extended families—and the Dons are our bar cousins. Atop the lineage of personalities and loyals sits Lala’s owner and old-Austin royalty, Miss Frances Lala. She’s full of energy and
A bunch of all-beef hot dogs Lots of Wolf Brand chili, no beans Lots of hot dog buns Ketchup, mustard, relish, cheese and other condiments, as desired, but don’t go crazy Have Ginny put the hot dogs into a large crock-pot with a little water to cover and let them heat until they are delicious (they always taste better when she makes them). In another crock-pot, heat the chili. Make the chili dog buffet available in the shadow of a steeple on a Sunday afternoon with your neighbors while Dale Watson is playing and the chickens are “making their selections.”
overflowing with memories, and though the business of the bar is now managed by Bill, her nephew—not to be confused with Big Bill, her brother-in-law—the cocktails are usually the business of Sarah, who’s been at Lala’s since 1974. Not that anyone would ever complain about the wall-to-wall, year-round Christmas happiness, but we wondered what inspired it. “I opened Lala’s with my brothers helping me in October of nineteen seventy-two,” Lala says. “So we quickly were decorating for Christmas. It was just beautiful in here—we had big buffets and all that going on—and great decorations. After New Year’s we took the decorations down and all of us just looked at each other and said nuh-uh! and back up it went. And I said, We’re gonna leave it like this and that’s it.” Of course, as is the case with most quirky historical details tied to a location, there’s plenty of other explanations floating around. “Oh my gosh,” Lala says with intensity. “You’ve got some where my husband got killed…my sons were killed. I don’t have a husband! I never had any children! This PLACE was my husband. I was forty-one when I opened here and I’m eighty-three now! I spent half of my life here.” This reluctance to change a good thing is, of course, key to Lala’s charm, and it applies to what’s in the air, too. Known for decades to have one of the best jukeboxes in Austin, you’ll find gems like Glenn Miller’s “Blue Rain,” The Coasters’ “Down in Mexico” and Woody
Herman and the Third Herd’s “Sleepy Serenade” nestled alongside the enormous collection of holiday music. “We just stayed with the music from back in our time,” Lala says. “I wanted the music from my time, which would be all the big bands. To me it’s still the best music, you know. We’ve got a different jukebox now but the same music.” Another thing that remains the same is Lala’s popular Bloody Mary. When asked for the secret behind it, Lala says she adapted the recipe from “Mr. Boston,” the bartender’s bible. “The only thing is [the bartenders] don’t know the measurements and I don’t either,” she says. “I go by color. I just show them (Lala’s hands go up in the air and she shakes imaginary bottles) doot-doot of this, doot of that, then doot-doot-doot—and then get ’em to understand the difference between a doot and a doot-doot. Then I tell ‘em, If you forget, or they don’t reorder them, then you can’t make them anymore until we go over it again. You have to have a good, thick tomato juice—I use Campbell’s now; Sacramento was my favorite but we can’t always get it. That was the best—oh my goodness. We sell a ton of them.”
“We just stayed with the music from back in our time. I wanted the music from my time, which would be all the big bands. To me it’s still the best music, you know. We’ve got a different jukebox now but the same music.” —Lala EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM
Bloody Mary praises aside, Lala says her favorite compliment of
burgers and such. “We don’t use it anymore,” she says. “It was too
all is how clean her place is—the restrooms, especially. “We treat
complicated.” And she admits that working with the City has been
[the bar] like family,” she says. “We respect it that way, and every-
challenging. “In nineteen seventy-two, liquor licenses had just
one keeps it nice. Also the atmosphere—I don’t like a bunch of
come out for around here, so we started from scratch. Over the
cussing or fussing and fighting, so we just don’t have any of that.
years, the City had me increase to a total of NINE sinks to this
Some days, when we wouldn’t have been open, we let the group
little place. And if it were up to them, they’d have me add another.”
from the bar use it when we celebrate birthdays, or let them have a
(Lala’s is around 1000 square feet, give or take. That’s about a sink
football party—family stuff.”
per every 100 square feet, or like putting a sink in every room of
And Lala’s bar family community has had time to become multi-
your home, including the living room and bedrooms). “They had
generational. Reed, a frequent patron, says he’s been visiting Lala’s
us put in new ceilings that ruined the light in here, and Bill had to
his entire adult life, and his parents came in before that. “And now
come up with this good idea of painting the sky on it. I’d have lost
I’ve got Reed’s children coming in—his son and his daughter,” Lala
my whole atmosphere! And new ceilings for the men’s room where
adds with a wry smile. “And soon, they’ll be starting families, you
the urinal is? I said, What do you think the men are going to do? Pee
know. I might get some of them! In the beginning the young people
up this way?” she says, pointing to the ceiling. “I don’t even want to
would come in and call it the ‘Old People’s Home.’ Eventually, they
talk about the cost—thousands. It makes me mad. We make it work
brought their parents and grandparents in, and they’d continue to
though, and try to keep things the way they are.”
come in. So the kids bring the older people to us and keep coming
Clinging tightly to the precious grandfathered-in status re-
in themselves. We’ve got a real good mix, because of the music and
mains hugely important in keeping things the same at Lala’s. One
the fact that you can still talk to each other and not have to scream
Burnet Road neighbor, the beloved Poodle Dog Lounge, recently
at each other. This created the generations that come in here—I’ve
lost their status, and mourners wonder if it can be reopened at
got lots of kids coming in here that are probably your age,” she
all faced with such huge, mandatory changes. “Yeah, it’s sad, it
notes—pointing at the middle-aged “kid” that is me.
is,” Lala says. “Because, like I say, What can you say? You do ev-
Of course, Lala says it hasn’t always been smooth sailing over
erything to do the right thing. People come back to Austin after
the years. The bar once featured a kitchen that was known for good
they’ve been gone four or five years and what they loved is gone.
Most every good old restaurant around here is gone. I think the City sometimes is hurting themselves.” Before moving on, we ask about the wall of military medals and badges just off the side of the bar. “A gentleman who was retiring
Buddy’s Place 8619 Burnet Rd., 78757 Sunday–Friday, 12 p.m.–midnight Saturday, 12 p.m.–1 a.m.
from out at Bergstrom in nineteen seventy-three wanted to put his medals up here for us to display before he went home to Ohio,” she says. “My brothers were Navy; Big Bill was Air Force—we have a
Same as it ever was
being sent to Iraq. He wrote that note and asked if I would leave it
up there until he came back. He hasn’t come back yet, but I don’t
spinning stories. There are no tank tops, as the sign on the door
want to take it down until he does. I don’t touch it. A young man…
clearly prohibits them. And holding court at a round table near
if he comes back he can take it down himself.” No doubt when he
the shuffleboard area are owner Jackie Smith and Jasper, the resi-
does come back in, Lala’s Little Nugget will be the same wonderful
dent mannequin who has his own fan club and is moved around
place he remembers.
the main room, from table to table, at whim.
FRANCES LALA’S FAMOUS “DOOT-DOOT-DIT” BLOODY MARY
a beat. “Just great! Business is good, and the bar is the same as it
Adapted from “Mr. Boston: Official Bartenders and Party Guide” (published by Warner Books)
get, from our oldest customers—and our youngest customers, they
lot of military around. And other military people followed suit. You see that note up there? (she points to the top of the wall) That was a young man who was here with his girl the night before he was
t three o’clock on a recent Tuesday afternoon, Buddy’s Place, the self-proclaimed “Home of Happiness” near the northern tip of the Burnet Road corridor, plays host to
about a half-dozen, well-dressed good ol’ boys shooting pool and
When asked how things are going at the bar, Smith doesn’t miss
Makes 1 drink Generous shot of vodka Two generous shots thick tomato juice (Sacramento brand, if possible) 1 doot* lime juice 3 doots Worcestershire sauce (look for a rich, reddishbrown hue) 1 doot Tabasco 1 dit* ground black pepper, to taste Celery stalk and lime wedge, for garnish Combine all of the ingredients except the garnishes in a bar mixer and stir lightly. Pour into a highball glass full of ice, garnish with the celery and lime and lovingly place it in front of your bar cousin. If you forgot how to make the drink, or if they don’t order another, don’t make any more until you watch Miss Frances do it again. *To the best of our ability, we interpret a “doot” to be less than a glug but more than a dash, and a “dit” to be just south of a pinch.
ever was. You know, this place has been a bar since the fifties, and the insides have never changed. That’s the biggest compliment we say Don’t ever change nothing.” Sweeping change hasn’t happened for a while at Buddy’s. Smith explains that the building started out as a bait shop, then switched to a bar and expanded into the little house sitting next to it. “It’s been a bar ever since. That’s the old house’s front door with John Wayne on it,” he says and points. “It’s been Buddy’s for seventeen years.” When asked how the bar has remained successful over the years, Smith attributes some of it to the live music from wellknown Austin talent that happens most Friday nights. “Son Geezinslaw, who is my brother, and also Glenn Collins who is our nephew,” he says. “I also suggest keeping prices low, and keeping everything the same, which is sometimes a struggle with the City. And I have the best country jukebox in Austin, maybe the world. And having great customers that we celebrate with.” At this point, Smith leaves the table and returns with the “Birthday Board,” a handwritten list of Buddy’s family birthdays—including those of members who have passed, yet are still remembered and celebrated on their day. Every regular wants on that board. Smith says the bar reminds him of the one in the old Norman Lear sitcom, “Archie Bunker’s Place.” “People laugh, debate and eventually ask to get on the birthday board,” he says. “We also celebrate a couple of times a year with a great fish fry and invite everybody. People bring stuff, too. Our fish has been coming out even better since we got the fryer from the old Charlie’s Steakhouse.” Indeed, the sharing, borrowing, loaning and acquiring of equipment between the old Burnet Road establishments—whether it was outgrown or reluctantly purchased during a going-outof-business sale—has become a recurring topic during our visits. It’s like blood transfusions or organ donations between loved ones—all of the flavor, history and idiosyncrasies embedded in the very machines that helped build a clientele are passed around, EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM
“People laugh, debate and eventually ask to get on the birthday board. [Every regular wants on that board.] We also celebrate a couple of times a year with a great fish fry and invite everybody. —Jackie Smith
often coveted and looked after as though family heirlooms. And and he says, “Sure! I’ve known them for years! You know, Billy
BUDDY’S PLACE’S “JASPER’S-JUST-SHY” FISH FRY
comes in here all the time—that’s Bill’s dad. Bill runs Lala’s for
Courtesy of Jackie Smith
it truly is a family. We ask Smith if he knows the folks at LaLa’s
Miss Frances.” We share that Miss Frances pointed out during our visit that Buddy’s does a great fish fry. “We keep it nice in here, kind of like an adult daycare center,” Smith says with a laugh. “You can feel good about bringing your date or your mom. We did have a one-person fight once. (Smith glances
Catfish fillets Zatarain’s batter mix Savannah-brand hushpuppies Fryolator from the old Charlie’s Steakhouse Fresh coleslaw
over at the motionless, life-size Jasper.) One night, when Jasper was sitting at a table, a fella joined him and started talking to him. After a while, the guy started getting frustrated that Jasper wouldn’t respond, so he got up and yelled at him You’re a rude son of a bitch! and stormed off.” (Jasper was, and remains, nonplussed.) When asked if there are any big plans for Buddy’s Place, Smith pauses and says, “Yes. I’m gonna keep it just the way it is.” 58
Submerge fillets in Zatarain’s batter before frying. Gently drop them into the fryer basket and remove when golden brown. Drop the hushpuppies into the fryer and remove when crisped. Serve with coleslaw and a bunch of your bar-family members what brung a dish they wanted to show off. Eat, drink beer, create lasting bonds. Repeat every six months.
North: 12233 N. 620 #105 Central: 4805 Burnet Rd.
GOOD FOOD SMART PEOPLE for
28 locations in Central Texas
PREPARING FOR ABUNDANCE BY L AU RA M C K I SSAC K • P H OTO G RA P H Y BY RYA N D O N A H U E
t’s about to be peak tomato season, and I hope
balls. It was as charming as it was delicious, and
your garden will soon be bursting with tiny
it reminded me of how my family sometimes eats
golden, green and red jewels. As in years past,
fresh, ripe tomatoes: standing over the sink with
since I’ll soon have more tomatoes than I know
the tomato in one hand and a shaker of salt in the
what to do with, I did some research for new
other—too eager for that deliciously tangy juice
recipes for this year’s bounty. Years ago, I had
to bother with cutlery or a plate. This adapted
a martini at the now-shuttered-and-razed High-
recipe celebrates the unbeatable flavor of the ripe
ball in South Austin. The drink was made with
tomato in that long-ago martini, with little inter-
vodka and house-made tomato water, and served
ruption or fuss. Enjoy, along with several other
with a basil leaf and a skewer of little mozzarella
options for using your abundance!
Squeeze fresh ideas out of an old stand-by
ORGANIC GARDENING: HERBS, VEGGIES, SEED, COMPOST & MORE
Family Owned & Operated
501 Bastrop Hwy, Austin 512-385-3452 Monday-Saturday 8am to 6pm
Gifts • Housewares • Garden • Hardware • Feed
find it at
8648 OLD BEE CAVES RD. (512)288-6113 www.naturalgardeneraustin.com EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM
Yields roughly 1/3 cup, using 2 lb ripe tomatoes
For the tomato water: 1 lb. fully ripe tomatoes Pinch of salt For each martini: 2 oz. tomato water 1 oz. vodka or gin Black or green olives, optional Cherry or pear tomatoes, optional Basil, optional Tiny mozzarella balls, optional Herbed salt, optional Line a colander with a layer of cheesecloth or a tea towel big enough to eventually tie into a bundle and place over a nonreactive pot. Wash and roughly chop the tomatoes and scrape them into the cloth. Sprinkle with salt and give them a stir. At this point, either leave the tomatoes in the colander, or gather up the corners of the cloth, tie them to a wooden spoon and suspend the bundle over the pot overnight. Place the pot in the refrigerator and cover the top with plastic wrap or another towel to avoid evaporation and unwanted refrigerator smells. Let the moisture drip out of the tomatoes overnight, or for at least eight hours. When ready, give the bundle a good squeeze to get out all of the juice, then save the pulp for tomato sauce. Chill 3 martini glasses in the freezer. Place the tomato water and alcohol into a shaker filled with ice and shake vigorously. Pour a few teaspoons of sea salt onto a saucer and mix in a couple of shakes of dried and crushed herbs, such as oregano and basil. Place a small amount of water in another saucer. Invert the glass into the water to wet the rim (or half the rim), then press it into the herbed salt. Pour in the tomato water and alcohol mixture and garnish with a basil leaf and a skewer of mozzarella, olive and cherry tomato.
Make in a food dehydrator: Set the temperature at 135° and place the tomato slices in single layers on the dehydrator. The tomatoes take about 10 hours in a dehydrator, but keep an eye on them! Remove the fully dried pieces at the 10-hour mark and put any still-leathery pieces back in the dehydrator for 1-hour increments until they have the right snap. When slices are completely crisp, use a spice mill or blender to turn them into powder. Store the finished product in the refrigerator in a tightly lidded container where it will keep for months.
Courtesy of Carol Ann Sayle and Larry Butler of Boggy Creek Farm
A coulis is another creative use for tomatoes that is often overlooked by the home cook. Traditionally, a coulis is just a simple sauce made from pureed fruit—usually sweet, but in this case savory, to complement the tomatoes. 1½ lb. ripe tomatoes 2 T. olive oil 1 shallot, finely chopped 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped ½ c. white wine 1–2 sprigs lemon thyme or other favorite herb Peel the tomatoes and squeeze the seeds and inner pulp into a strainer, collecting the juice in a bowl. Discard seeds and rough chop tomatoes. (Blanching the tomatoes until the skin splits and then cooling makes peeling easier.) Sauté the shallot in the oil for a few minutes until soft. Add the garlic and wine and reduce for 2 to 3 minutes. Add the tomatoes, strained juice and herb sprigs and bring to a boil. Lower the heat and simmer for 20 minutes. Remove and discard the herb sprigs, then carefully puree the mixture in batches until silky smooth. Serve the coulis over eggs, fritters, French fries, garlic bread, grilled meats—just about anything that would benefit from a little tomato-y goodness! Coulis will keep in the freezer for several months. Freeze it in ice cube trays then place the cubes into a freezer bag for easy access. BEVERAGE 2014
Make in an oven: Preheat the oven to the lowest setting possible—usually 170° or 200°. Slice 2 pounds of ripe tomatoes into ¼-inch circles and place them on a large baking sheet in a single layer, making sure they don‘t overlap or touch. Bake for 5 hours, then check them every hour after until the slices are completely dried and crunchy. Alternatively, this process can be flip-flopped by first pureeing the tomatoes, spreading the puree onto a baking sheet, drying it into a leather, then slicing the leather and continuing to dry the slices until crispy. When slices are completely crisp, use a spice mill or blender to turn them into powder.
LARRY’S SMOKE-DRIED TOMATO PESTO
Makes 3 cups
An interesting way to put up a large amount of tomatoes is to completely dry them in the oven or in a food dehydrator, then powder them. The tomatoes need to be taken past the point of a chewy, ovendried tomato, though, in order to make a powder; they need to be crunchy, but not burned. Some prefer to peel, core and/or seed the tomatoes first, but these steps are not necessary, and any kind of tomato will work. Tomato powder can be used as a dry rub for meat, added to sauces and soups, kneaded into bread dough or sprinkled over pasta, salad, French fries, popcorn, etc.—anywhere a little tomato zip would be welcome. Some even sprinkle the powder on store-bought tomatoes in February when they’re feeling nostalgic for summer.
2 oz. smoke-dried tomatoes (we like Larry’s!) 4 oz. tomato juice 4½ oz. chopped bell peppers 4 to 5 oz. chopped jalapeño peppers (adjust for personal taste) 5 oz. chopped onions ½ oz. garlic flakes Sea salt to taste (Larry starts with ¼ oz.) 1 oz. olive oil 3 oz. apple cider vinegar Combine all the ingredients in a saucepan, bring to a mild boil and simmer for about 15 to 20 minutes. Let cool, then puree to a pesto consistency. Wonderful served with chèvre on crackers, toast or on vegetable slices. Store in the refrigerator. Since 1994, Larry has grown Roma tomatoes at his farm in Gause, Milam County, expressly to make smoke-dried tomatoes. He picks the tomatoes ripe, slices them in half, places them cut-side up on racks and slides them into his handmade smoke houses. It takes several days, depending on the humidity, to dry the tomatoes to smoky perfection. Bags of the smoke-dried tomatoes are usually available at the Boggy Creek Farm stand starting in July. They’re similar to sun-dried tomatoes, but they’re dark red and smoky—a good vegetarian substitute for bacon.
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CAPITAL AREA FOOD BANK
the happy chickens that spend their days grazing on grass in an idyllic field. “This system is less stressful for the chickens,” he says as he balances a delicate blue egg in his hand. “The result is
A FRESH IDEA TO REDUCE WASTE BY SARA PERALTA
we get much better eggs, in every measurable way.” However, not all of the eggs produced at Vital Farms can be sold, Brooks says. For a variety of reasons—including regulations and retailer expectations—some eggs are simply too small to sell to the general public. CAFB developed a waste-avoidance solution for Vital Farms, and other local farms and businesses in similar positions, by creating a unique opportunity to donate their unsellable, fresh, healthy food. CAFB staff members work closely with each business to identify healthy food and determine a safe way
hen people hear the words “food bank,” shelves lined
to donate. For Vital Farms, it means being able to offer a health-
with canned food are often the first thing they imagine.
ful protein source to Central Texans at risk of hunger rather than
Yet, while healthy, shelf-stable food is definitely es-
composting or disposing of those precious eggs.
sential for fighting hunger in Central Texas, the Capital Area Food
Unfortunately, the potential for unnecessary food waste such
Bank (CAFB) is working hard to provide more fresh foods to the
as this is not unique. A study published in 2013 by the Natural
families we serve. With the support of generous donors and dedi-
Resources Defense Council found that 40 percent of food in the
cated partner agencies, we’ve succeeded in collecting more than
United States today goes uneaten. This astounding amount is
11 million pounds of fresh food in the last year from wholesalers,
equivalent to $165 billion lost annually, just to food waste. Vital
farms and more than 125 local and national grocery stores. And
Farms is proud to say that in the 2012–2013 fiscal year, it donated
less than a mile from the CAFB headquarters in South Austin, an
more than 37,000 pounds of fresh eggs to CAFB, and that helping
unlikely group of “volunteers” has joined in on our quest for fresh.
fight hunger is a reflection of the farm’s core values. “We don’t
“We call them our ‘ladies,’” explains Dan Brooks, director of
want to waste what is an incredible resource,” Brooks says. “As a
marketing and communications for Vital Farms—a popular local
business, we are a part of the community. For us, that means sup-
supplier of organic eggs sold at Whole Foods Markets nationwide.
porting the community.”
Brooks credits the farm’s success to the aforementioned “ladies,”
For more, visit capitalareafoodbank.org and vitalfarms.com
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THE HISTORY OF GIN BY DAV I D A L A N • I L LUST RAT I O N BY H I L L A RY W E B E R - GA L E
in is considered to be the quintessential English spirit; thus it
Bond franchise, vodka was able to unseat gin as the most-consumed
may come as a surprise that the drink owes its early history
white spirit in the U.S. by the end of the 1960s.
to the Dutch, and much of the contemporary innovation in
gin is happening not in England but in her former American colony.
By the 1980s, gin was a moribund category in the US. In an era of electronic music and postmodern art, there was no room
In the 15th and 16th centuries, the Dutch were masters of the seas,
for the liquor your grandfather drank, and gin was decidedly
and like other European powers who had access to points east, they
old-fashioned. The classic gin bottle looked stale on a back bar
brought back all manner of exotic ingredients from their travels. In
populated by the sleek new vodka bottles. The flavor profile of
the days before modern preservation practices, distillation was an
gin was also out of line with popular tastes—heavy in pine and
effective means of preserving precious spices and botanicals. By the
juniper at a time when drinkers wanted something simple and
middle of the 1600s, a spirit known as genever started to gain popu-
clean. Enter Bombay Sapphire, which came to market in 1987.
larity in Dutch cities. Genever, not surprisingly, takes its name from
“Bombay Sapphire Gin essentially changed the category, using a
the Dutch word for juniper, and is an early style of gin that was made
modern and innovative bottle design and a flavor profile which
from redistilling malt distillate with juniper, caraway and other bo-
was balanced and citrus-forward,” notes Gary Hayward, U.S.
tanicals. Genever was also believed to serve a medical function, at a
brand ambassador for Bombay Sapphire.
time when most medicines were compounded from plants.
The gamble worked. Sapphire was hip and new, and the formula
When genever reached British shores, the name was shortened to
dialed back the juniper and brought the citrus and other botanicals
“gin” and it became immensely popular in the 17th century. During
to the front. The clever blue bottle certainly didn’t hurt, nor did the
a period known as the “Gin Craze,” gin shops appeared by the thou-
award-winning marketing campaign. While Bombay Sapphire was
sands in England, largely because of favorable taxation that imposed
a runaway hit and did great things to elevate the gin category, it
a steep duty on imported spirits. Eventually, the free-for-all was
wasn’t until the classic cocktail renaissance of the last decade that
brought under control by various “Gin Acts,” which sought to legiti-
gin finally and fully re-entered the American drinking mainstream.
mize the manufacture of gin (much of 17th and early 18th century gin
In 2000, William Grant & Sons launched Hendrick's, a Scottish
production was done using rudimentary equipment in the home). By
gin that’s finished with cucumber and rose hips. “Hendrick's really
the 1830s, the column still began to revolutionize the spirits indus-
dusted the cobwebs off of gin” when the brand launched in the
try. Unlike the traditional pot still, which produced spirits in small
U.S. in 2002, according to William Grant’s portfolio ambassador
batches, the column still was capable of producing very high-proof
Charlotte Voisey. “We opened the doors and said, Gin doesn’t have
spirits on a nearly nonstop cycle (for this reason it’s also known as
to be just this way. It can be what you want it to be. We can make it
a continuous still). This development coincides with the industrial-
refreshing, approachable, pleasant—something that everyone can
ization of gin, and with the emergence of the London Dry style.
enjoy.” Adding cucumber to the spirit was not just a playful move,
In the young U.S., a cocktail culture was in full bloom—by the
but also a way to position Hendrick's as a refreshing gin—perfectly
1890s, American bartenders had already developed most of the
timed as American consumers were embracing fresh ingredients,
basic tools and techniques found behind today’s classic cocktail
farmers markets and locavorism; and as bartenders were beginning
bars, and many of the cocktails of the era were made with gin. Chief
to follow the lead of their colleagues in the kitchen by incorporat-
among these was the martini, consisting merely of gin, some por-
ing culinary ingredients and techniques into drinks.
tion of vermouth and perhaps a drop of bitters—it bore not even
It wasn’t long before American distilleries followed suit, and
scant resemblance to the fruity, juicy “martinis” of today’s popular
the locavorism that had taken the culinary world by storm soon
culture. The martini was the pre-eminent gin cocktail for much of
created a sea change in the beverage alcohol world. In the decade
the 20th century, that is, until the arrival of vodka—a Johnny-come-
since Hendricks launched in the U.S., literally hundreds of new
lately spirit in the U.S. despite its ancient historical relevance in
gins have hit liquor store shelves. And it was only a matter of time
Scandinavia and Eastern Europe. With a little help from the James
before Texas distillers got in on the game. EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM
In 2011, Austin’s Treaty Oak Distilling Co. became one of the
“Best place to cure what ails you”
first outfitters to produce a Texas gin. “The renaissance in American gin has provided a lot of opportunity for small distillers to present a personality and a sense of place through the use of local botanicals,” says Treaty Oak’s founder Daniel Barnes. “With Waterloo No. 9, we replaced some of the traditional London Dry ingredi-
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ents with local ingredients such as grapefruit, pecans, lavender to showcase what we think is representative of Texas.” Treaty Oak is also at the forefront of another innovation—in the form of aged gins. Waterloo Antique is a combination of gins that are
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aged for one and two years in oak barrels. “At one year, it is still very
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gin-like,” says Barnes. “At two years, it takes on the character of spiced whiskey.” Though there are a handful of distillers experimenting with barrel-aged gin, the concept is new enough that when Barnes sought to put the term on his bottle, it was rejected by the federal agency that oversees alcohol labeling, because they didn’t think aged gin existed. With over 500 years of history, gin is, at once, old and new again. It’s a resilient category, surviving (if barely) the vodka insurgency of the post-WWII era to once again become the darling of cocktail bartenders and consumers alike. There has never been more evolution and innovation in this historic spirit category.
STYLES OF GIN • Genever (or Jenever): Malty and similar to whiskey that hasn’t yet been aged, genever is a style of gin with a less prominent botanical quality. Sometimes referred to as “Holland gin” in early American cocktail books,
“The Ultimate Nursery for Herbs” Austin Chronicle
comes in two styles: oude, the traditional style, and jonge, a lighter-bodied, more modern style. Bols Genever, produced in Holland, is widely available in the US.
Culinary herbs for chefs— and fruit trees, veggies and native plants for gardeners
• Old Tom Gin: This sweeter, fuller-bodied predecessor to London Dry gin was popular in the 19th century and was likely used in some early gin cocktails. Though out of
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genever is still common in its native Netherlands, and
production for generations, the classic cocktail movement has encouraged new releases from small labels such as Ransom and Hayman’s. • London Dry Gin: A classic juniper-forward, dry style of gin that emerged in the late 1800s and is still the most popular style in the world. Well-known labels include
proudly printing for austin’s food industries Specialty Foods Deli & Meat Beer, Wine & Spirits Produce Coffee, Tea & Spices Fast Food Bakery & Confectionery Retail
Tanqueray, Beefeater and Gordon’s. • New World Gin: Alternately known as “New Western,” “New American” and “International” style, this category is green enough that there’s not yet been a consensus on what to call it. It refers to the modern gins that are re-imagining the traditional botanical makeup—often with an emphasis on local flavors and culinary
traditions. Hendrick’s and Aviation are some national brands; Waterloo No. 9 and Genius are local examples.
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GENIUS GIN BY S H E L L EY S E A L E P H OTO G R A P H Y BY A L I SO N N A R RO
ou might say Mike Groener got a head start on the path to developing an appreciation for diversity. As a child in San Francisco, he had a free-spirited, creative mother who often
introduced him and his brother to new and unfamiliar foods. “I was eating sushi when I was three, and on the cilantro wagon in the late eighties,” Groener says. “[Mom] was constantly creating and exploring different types of cuisine; this inspired me to keep seeking new and bold flavors.” Groener continues to think about the individual and collective notes in food, and he’s moved forward on a new path that started in 2010 when he and his good friend Charles Cheung became interested in the “locally produced” movement that seemed to be overtaking Austin. The two discussed applying this to the world of spirits—in particular to gin, which is often derided as overwhelming, harsh and perfume-y. In the most basic terms, gin is simply a neutral base infused with botanicals. But recipes, ingredients and processes vary wildly from maker to maker, and result in flavor profiles that run the
of which are sourced locally. “The flavor of Genius was conceived
gamut from good to bad. Groener’s and Cheung’s interest in the
more with adjectives than ingredients,” Groener jokes. “I wanted to
gin-making process led to months of research and sampling as they
create something that felt elegant and smelled beautiful. That initial
experimented with different botanical infusions. “We were never
smell had to take you captive with beauty and immerse you into a
bartenders or professional chefs,” Groener notes. “Just two normal
huge punch of flavor.” And through a proprietary fermentation pro-
guys with a distinct perspective on flavors.”
cess that lends a unique silky quality, that punch of flavor, Groener
Both Cheung and Groener have master’s degrees from St. Ed-
says, ends up drinking more like bourbon than gin.
ward’s University and both were working in the technology indus-
Genius gin comes in both standard and Navy strength to appeal
try when they first began experimenting with gin flavors. Between
to different types of drinkers. Standard is a 90-proof homage to the
their mutual backgrounds, tenacity and shared love of quality and
classic London Dry variety; easy to sip by itself without briskness.
aesthetics, they eventually landed a recipe and technique for an
Genius Navy is 114 proof—the historical proof carried on British
artisan gin that made them proud. They called it “Genius” and in-
Royal Navy fleets. The low water content, which Genius has repli-
corporated in late 2011.
cated, was perfect for long sea voyages; the gin could accidentally be
Distinct, indeed. The partners handcraft every single drop of
spilled on gunpowder without rendering it useless. “Navy strength
their gin from scratch here in Austin—a rarity for distillers who
allows for a few additional botanicals while really leading the flavor
often source portions of their ingredients elsewhere. A 16-percent
in a cocktail,” Groener says. “It packs more presence and clarity.”
alcohol is created in about five days using yeast, water and sugar.
Finally, Groener points out that the 100-percent made-in-
This neutral base is then distilled to about 92 percent to begin the
Austin process is hugely important to him. “I feel a handmade
rest of the journey. Genius employs a unique hot-cold process for
product is actually made from scratch,” he says. Of course, creat-
infusion—introducing some of the botanicals early in the process,
ing gin from the ground up is difficult and time-consuming, but
using a room-temperature steep, and others during the hot phase us-
for Groener and Cheung, the resulting quality is unparalleled.
ing a basket in the copper still. The steep is bright green, extremely
“There’s no more versatile spirit than gin,” he says. “It can be
floral and includes bold and nuanced ingredients, such as elderflower,
heavy, light, fatty or transparent. It has a transformational ele-
lavender, lime peel, angelica root, juniper and coriander—many
ment that other spirits don’t have.
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THE FIZZ BIZ
BY KATE PAYNE PHOTOGRAPHY BY JO ANN SANTANGELO
orn in drugstores and apothecaries, handmade syrup-fla-
commercial sodas. Their flavors are complex, subtle and can high-
vored fizzy-water beverages from a soda fountain were the
light what’s in season. Yes, homemade syrups still contain sugars—
norm until commercial sodas started popping up at the end
either in the form of a sweetener or the juice from fruits—but they
of the 19th century. Over time, those commercial sodas have moved
also contain fiber, vitamins and minerals that most commercial so-
even farther away from the beverages of long ago—containing less
das don’t. Like the soda fountains that emerged in the 1800s, home-
of the early natural herbal or root flavoring ingredients and more
made syrups bring the handmade, seasonal and local aspect back
of the colorings, varieties of sweeteners and other faux flavorings.
to the experience of soda. In addition, the syrups can also be used
Beyond the debatable ingredients list on modern-day sodas, as
in cocktails, swirled into plain yogurt or drizzled over ice cream.
we become more conscientious of sugars in our diet, we are more
Make these syrups refined-sugar-free by substituting honey or
likely to turn away from these concoctions. A standard 16-ounce
maple syrup (subbing the sugar one for one) or agave (by using 2
bottle of soda has about 11 teaspoons of sugar, and the artificially
tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons agave for ¼ cup sugar). Maple was
sweetened versions are hardly health-promoting options.
our favorite sweetener of the sugar-free versions, and coconut
Luckily, sodas made at home using homemade syrups made from fresh, whole ingredients are a fabulous and easy alternative to 72
palm sugar (subbed one for one with sugar) was a great substitute in the cream soda because it adds a layer of nutty flavor.
Important: To make a soda using the syrup, pour the club soda into the glass first, then add the syrup. (Do it the other way around and you’ll experience the voluminous fizz that will threaten to take over the glass and countertop!) Combining fruit syrups with cream soda is also a delicious idea. The cheater method for making fruit syrups into fruit-cream sodas is to add ¼ teaspoon pure vanilla extract to each finished 8-ounce soda. Make floats with the finished sodas by dropping a scoop or two of vanilla ice cream into the glass.
Makes 1 cup or 8 8-ounce sodas Blueberries have a lot of natural pectin; even without cooking the syrup any further (or even using sugar, which, in addition to added lemon juice, helps to activate pectin bonds and gel a jam or jelly), all three of the versions I made—sugar-, agave-, and maple-sweetened— became delicious spreadable jellies the next day.
Thanks Austin! portland maine & austin texas
¼ c. sugar 1 t. lemon juice
Combine the blueberries and water in a small saucepan, cover and bring to a boil. Remove the lid, reduce the heat and simmer for 5 minutes. Mash the berries with a potato masher and remove pan from the heat. Strain the mixture through a fine mesh sieve—using a spatula to push the remaining juice out of the berry skins. Add the sugar and lemon juice to the warm blueberry juice. Stir to dissolve, then let cool to room temperature. Make sodas by adding 2 tablespoons of syrup to an 8-ounce glass of club soda. Add more syrup to taste, if desired.
OLD-FASHIONED CREAM SODA SYRUP Makes 1 quart or 8 8- to 12-ounce sodas Cream sodas are controversial in the application of true cream. This recipe doesn’t contain cream, but a splash of half-and-half in the finished soda will bridge the gap, satisfying both sides of the debate. 2 c. brown sugar ¼ c. raisins, roughly chopped 1 cinnamon stick, crushed 1 vanilla bean, slit lengthwise
handcrafted beverages www.maineroot.com
BLUEBERRY SODA SYRUP
2 pt. blueberries ¼ c. water
4 c. water 4 T. freshly squeezed lemon juice ¼ t. cream of tartar Splash half-and-half, optional
Combine the sugar, raisins, cinnamon, vanilla bean and water in a large saucepan over low heat until the sugar granules have dissolved. Raise the heat to bring the mixture to a simmer and lower the heat, if necessary, to maintain a simmer for 15 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat, add the lemon juice and cream of tartar, and whisk to combine. Cover the pan and let cool for 30 minutes. Strain the mixture into a quart mason jar and keep refrigerated for up to three weeks. Make sodas by adding ¼ cup syrup to an 8- to 12-ounce glass and topping off with club soda and a splash of half-and-half, if using.
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released book, "The Hip Girl's Guide to the Kitchen: A Hit-The-Ground Running Approach to Stocking Up and Cooking Delicious, Nutritious, and Affordable Meals," at BookPeople on Tuesday, May 27—featuring food and drink tastings from the book. Details at edibleaustin.com
LA CASITA DE BUEN SABOR
SEASON OF THE SPRITZERS BY LUCINDA HUTSON
esi Arnaz and I have shared a
to make a spritzer sparkle, although I’ve
few cocktails together.
added prosecco or cava, too.
more than three decades,
Fresh citrus, preferably Mexican
during the month of May, I went fishing
(key) limes, oranges, kumquats, grape-
with my father in Mexico’s Baja Cali-
fruit and lemons, add that special burst
fornia del Sur. We stayed at a secluded
of freshness and pleasing acidity to
fishing resort an hour down a dusty and
drinks. Dress up spritzers with gar-
bumpy road from La Paz and spent long
nishes such as slices, wedges or curled
days sea-wrangling and chasing the elu-
zests of fruit; unpeeled organic pickling
sive marlin and shimmering neon yel-
cucumbers cut in slices or long spears
low and turquoise dorado (mahi mahi).
to use as stir-sticks; seasonal berries;
Desi owned a vacation home in the tiny
or edible flowers, such as Johnny-jump-
village (replete with a guitar-shaped
ups, nasturtiums, fennel, dill or small
swimming pool!) and was a competitive
blue star-shaped borage flowers. A
sports fisherman who held court in the
nosegay of fragrant herbs makes my fa-
bar in the evenings—boasting about the
vorite garnish, though.
big fish that got away.
Many new-fangled cocktails today
Upon returning to shore, sunburned
taste like dessert before dinner with
and tired after a long day of fish-
their cloying concoctions combining
ing, nothing tasted better than a cold
too many liqueurs, spirits, sweet juices
spritzer cocktail flavored with freshly
and syrups. Give me a light and refresh-
squeezed Mexican lime: simple, refresh-
ing spritzer any day!
ing and invigorating! Some of us would gather in the courtyard outside our rooms and I’d fill tall glasses with ice, thick slices of unpeeled cucumbers, a lemon wedge and a hearty dose of gin, then splash in ginger ale and a squeeze of Mexican limes. After imbibing the cocktail, we’d enjoy the crunchy, ice-cold cucumber slices and recount the day’s events. I christened the spritzer the “Gin-Cu-Lem” and even daiquiriloving Desi liked it. Spritzers—cocktails in which the “spirit” of the spirit shines and other ingredients are kept minimal—remain my favorite warm-weather coolers. Some prefer using white rum or vodka in spritzers; however, I find the bright, fiery personality of 100-percent blue agave tequila blanco (tempered with its inimitable sweet roasted agave flavor) or the juniper, citrus, spice and herbs that flavor gin far more exciting. And for the bubbles, there are delicious artisanal offerings, such as Jamaican-style Reed’s Extra Ginger Brew and Austin’s own Maine Root Ginger Brew, to add spicy kick, or consider sparkling sodas in flavors such as blood orange and pomegranate. Replace traditional overly sweet quinine-flavored tonic waters with more natural and less-sweet versions such as Fever-Tree and Q Tonic. Sometimes a good splash of bubbly mineral water—think Topo Chico—is all that’s needed 74
GIN AND ROSES Makes 1 spritzer This is my favorite warm-weather spritzer—especially when flavored and garnished with stems of the cucumber-scented salad burnet before it goes dormant in summer’s heat. Salad burnet returns with vigor and thrives throughout our winter and spring—growing in a cascading fountain of long stems with small, serrated leaves that also taste like cucumbers. You can find salad burnet transplants at nurseries now. Plant in full sun in rich soil. It makes a lovely border plant. 2 oz. gin Premium tonic water, to taste Juice of ½ lime Several slices organic, unpeeled pickling cucumbers Sprinkling of organic rose petals, optional Nosegay of long sprigs of salad burnet (see note) Rim a chilled highball glass with lime and fill with ice, or better yet, with one jumbo ice cube. Add the gin and tonic water, to taste. Squeeze the lime into the drink. Stir and garnish with the slices of cucumber, rose petals and salad burnet sprigs.
Thatâ€™s what friends are for! Cheers to a great relationship with Pepe Z Tequila
No matter how you mix it, my handmade vodka beats those giant “imports” every day.
Wine Enthusiast RATINGS
SCORE OUT OF 100 POINTS
BER RY KICKER MULE By BRI AN FLO YD
★ 1½ oz. Tito’s Handmade Vodka ★ ¼ oz. simple syrup ★ ½ oz. freshly squeezed lime juice ★ 4-5 fresh raspberries
Muddle the raspberries and simple syrup in a shaker; add the Tito’s, lime juice and a dash of Peychaud’s Bitters. Strain and pour into a mug over ice. Top with ginger beer.
AMERICAN M ULE Th e Ol d CL AS SI C
★ 1½ oz. Tito
’s Handmade Vodka hly squeezed lime juice ★ 3 oz. gin ger beer Combine ingredients over ice in a mu g; garnish with a lime wedge. ★ ½ oz. fres
POMEGRANATE MULE By DARRY L PETTI GANO ★ 1½ oz. Tito’s Handmade Vodka ★ 2-3 thumbnail-sized ginger slices
or a dash of ginger liqueur
★ 2 oz. pomegranate juice ★ ½ oz. freshly squeezed lime juice ★ 3 oz. ginger beer
Combine ingredients over ice in a mug; garnish with a lime wheel. Photo ©2014, Elizabeth Bellanti
Makes 1 spritzer
Makes 1 spritzer
In the era of “Gone with the Wind,” genteel Southern ladies suffering the “vapors” mopped their brows with a decoction of a fragrant herb called lemon verbena. I’d rather be revived with a vodka-spiked lemonade garnished with long sprigs of this highly aromatic lemony herb, instead. Its lance-shaped leaves and tiny white blossoms are good for flavoring and garnishing iced drinks, punches, fruit juices or hot tea. You can find lemon verbena transplants at nurseries now. Plant in mostly full sun (some afternoon shade appreciated) in well-draining, rich soil. It grows into a large bush that dies back in winter but returns in the spring.
Paloma means “dove” in Spanish, and this tequila spritzer will make your spirits soar. In Mexico it’s as popular as the margarita. In fact, some call it the “lazy man’s margarita.” It’s simple to make with only three ingredients and some spicy Mexican seasoning salt—nada más!
2 oz. premium vodka 5 oz. homemade lemonade (see note) Several lemon slices Sparkling mineral water, cava or prosecco Nosegay of fresh lemon verbena Fill a tall glass with ice. Add the lemonade, vodka and lemon slices. Splash with sparkling water, stir and garnish with several long stems of lemon verbena.
Lime and salt for rim of glass 2 oz. tequila blanco or reposado Juice from 2 Mexican (key) limes 5 oz. grapefruit or other citrus soda, to taste Spicy Mexican seasoning salt with dried red chile (such as Tajín or Trechas brands,) optional Lime wedges for garnish Rim a tall glass with lime and salt. Add lots of ice, then the tequila, lime juice and sparkling grapefruit soda, to taste. Add a sprinkle of spicy seasoning salt, stir and garnish with lime wedges. Note: Each of the above recipes may be made either with gin, tequila, rum or vodka. Whichever spirit you choose, keep the bottle in the freezer and pour it ice cold. Find more of Lucinda’s spritzer recipes at edibleaustin.com
Note: Slightly bruise a bunch of long stems of lemon verbena to release flavor, then add to your favorite homemade lemonade. Chill the lemonade for several hours, occasionally pressing down on the leaves with a spoon. Strain and serve.
Edible Austin and Tacos and Tequila presents: Lucinda Hutson signs her
Note: For an extra kick, add an ounce of Paula's Texas Lemon!
by Tequila Herradura and more! Details at edibleaustin.com
latest book, "¡Viva Tequila! Cocktails, Cooking, and Other Agave Adventures," at Tacos and Tequila on Thursday, May 1—featuring a tequila tasting
Texans make the
BEST MARGARITAS with the
WORLD’S BEST ORANGE LIQUEUR. EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM
LOCAL HERO AWARDS BY N I CO L E L ESS I N
ast fall, we asked readers to vote for the farm, restaurant, food shop, food artisan and nonprofit who they felt are making a major contribution to our local food commu-
nity. Here we proudly present the winners—and a glimpse at what makes them compelling.
ocal Her edible Communities FOO
FOOD SHOP Antonelli’s Cheese Shop If you ask John and Kendall Antonelli which is the favorite
ocal Her edible Communities
/ R E S TA U R A
cheese at their Hyde Park store, they’ll tell you whichever one they are eating at the moment.“We love them all, and we’re really
CHEF / RESTAURANT Chef Josh Jones of Salt & Time Butcher Shop & Salumeria Chef Josh Jones has learned that liver has been sorely missing from people’s lives. Ever since he began offering the Odd Bits board on the menu each night, the response to the two or three different kinds of offal has been surprising. “We put them on the menu for five dollars each, just bite-sized pieces of offal, to get people to try something that they have never tried before,” he explains. “Every time we put a liver dish on, it sells out within fifteen or twenty minutes—there is a very positive reaction to it.” Jones says he enjoys the challenge of his position running the day-to-day food operations as chef of the restaurant because he shares with owners Ben Runkle and Bryan Butler the deep com-
proud of them all,” says John. “We rotate through products fairly regularly, and it’s always fun to revisit a long lost love and get it back into our life.” In fact, the Antonellis hold the artisanal and locally produced cheeses in such high esteem, they invite their customers to taste their way through the seven distinct styles featured—from the soft-ripened to the blues. “Our cheese mongers are there to guide you,” John says. Their customers also like to know the back-story behind the cheeses—including who made them, why they made them and even what their families are like. “We got into this business because we wanted to keep learning and keep adventuring, if you will,” says Kendall. “Opening the cheese shop was a way to invite people on that journey with us.”
FOOD ARTISAN confituras
mitment to using the entire animal. “A lot of restaurants claim to
About three-and-a-half years ago, Stephanie McClenny
be nose-to-tail, but they really just buy noses or the tails,” Jones
knew she was on to something when she tried selling 100 of her
says. “We literally get the entire animal, and it’s my job to make
handcrafted, locally sourced jams at a Saturday farmers market.
sure there’s not a single little bit of it that goes to waste.”
“We sold out in the first two hours,” says McClenny, a former
grown out of their iconic East Austin farm. “I thought we would just be digging in the dirt, but the people we have come to know, the relationships that have developed, the chefs that come in and the surrounding community that come in—that whole aspect of it just sort of surprised me,” Paula says.
ocal Her edible Communities
O D A RT I S A N
In fact, the Foores say their work involves not only growing food for the community, but also educating people about sustainable agriculture—from helping parents show their children where carrots come from to encouraging elected representatives to consider new legislation that would give agricultural
pediatric nurse who now sells her award-winning jams, jellies
tax exemptions to urban farmers. “Here in Austin, we have such
and preserves as a full-time career. “And the funny thing is, it
an amazing food community, but there are still people we need
took me two months to make the hundred jars of jam, and I
to reach who don’t understand what we are doing and how im-
realized I would then have less than a week to make a hundred
portant it is,” Paula says. “We’re just a little farm, but there is
more jars for the following Saturday farmers market! So that
work to be done.”
was definitely a turning point.” These days the processes are more refined, and McClenny says she has learned important concepts for running a small spired by the strong demand for her products, the potential to educate and learn from people about the art of preservation and the never-ending parade of readily available, seasonal ingredients she has to work with. “There are limitless possibilities for creation, which kind of keeps things fresh for us,” she
could possibly cook, along come peaches—so we’re saved.”
ocal Her edible
says. “You know, once we’ve cooked every last strawberry we
NONPROFIT Sustainable Food Center Teaching area residents about good nutrition and how to cook with fresh local foods at their new East Austin facility; operating four area farmers markets and helping people grow vegetables at a community garden: These are just a few
to bolster our local food system and, in turn, strengthen our
/ FA R M E R ARM
community. “Our tagline is ‘from seed to table,’” says Eliza-
ocal Her edible
Photography of confituras by Andy Sams and Sustainable Food Center by Thomas Winslow
business. Yet despite the monumental effort involved, she’s in-
FARM / FARMER Glenn and Paula Foore of Springdale Farm
of the myriad ways the Sustainable Food Center (SFC) works
beth Winslow, SFC’s communications manager. “We try to support efforts in building a stronger food system from the ground up.” While these programs may seem to be mostly focused on
Glenn and Paula Foore of Springdale Farm both agree that plant-
food, their impact can be far reaching—from lowering diet-
ing a seed and watching it grow is a “little miracle, every time,” and
related diseases to making sure our food dollars stay nearby.
that it’s a proud moment when they get to display the ultimate ex-
“A strong local food system impacts every aspect of life within
pression of that miracle at their twice-a-week farm stand.
a community,” Winslow says. “It’s health, it’s environment, it’s
But they also enjoy the non-botanical elements that have
economy, it’s social justice.” EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM
THE DIRECTORY ARTISANAL FOODS
Antonelli’s Cheese Shop
We love cut-to-order artisanal cheese and all that goes with it. Order a picnic platter, take a class, or host a private guided event. Free tastings daily. 512-531-9610; 4220 Duval St. antonellischeese.com
4.0 Cellars is a tasting room and event venue serving the wines of Brennan Vineyards, Lost Oak Winery and McPherson Cellars. 830-997-7470; 10354 E. US Hwy. 290 fourpointwine.com
Lick Honest Ice Creams
Artisan ice creams celebrating the finest ingredients Texas has to offer! Handmade in small batches in our shop, locally sourced and seasonally inspired. 512-363-5622; 2032 S. Lamar Blvd. ilikelick.com
Lone Star Foodservice Lone Star Foodservice is a familyowned wholesale meat company, whose mission is to source and deliver the finest cuts of natural beef, pork and lamb to tables across Texas. 512-646-6218; 1403 E. 6th St. lonestarfood.com
Noble Sandwich Co. Local sandwich shop featuring house cured meats, made from scratch breads, condiments and pickles. 512-382-6248; 11815 620 N., Ste. 4 noblesandwiches.com
Spiral Horn Apiary Where millions of honey bees call home. The finest raw, unfiltered honey, handcrafted all-natural soap, body lotions and hand cream. Tours available. 325-792-6818; 8247 FM 502, Rochelle spiralhornapiary.com
Texas Olive Ranch Fresh Texas-grown extra virgin olive oil from Carrizo Springs, infused olive oil & balsamic vinegar at farmers markets in Austin, SA, NB, Houston, Dallas. 877-461-4708 texasoliveranch.com
BAKERIES Better Bites Bakery We are a gluten-free certified/vegan bakery specializing in delightful treats with special dietary needs, and high food standards, in mind. 512-350-2271; 11190 Circle Dr., Ste. 350 betterbitesbakery.com
Blue Note Bakery Blue Note Bakery is Austin’s premier custom cake shop, meticulously creating one of a kind dessert for your special occasion. 512-797-7367 4201 S. Congress Ave., Ste. 101 bluenotebakery.com 80
Healthy living starts with healthy water! Aquasana manufactures and sells high performance water filtration systems for home and commercial use. 866-662-6885; aquasana.com
Alamosa Wine Cellars Making cool wines from warm climate grapes at the top of the Texas Hill Country since 1999. Tempranillo, Syrah, Viognier, Sangiovese, Verdelho, Graciano. 325-628-3313; 677 County Rd. 430, Bend alamosawinecellars.com
Spanish wine with a Texas accent! Russell Smith crafts premium wine in Spain for his friends in Texas. www.barcelonacellertinto.blogspot.com
Leading the world in beers made in Brooklyn. 718-486-7422; brooklynbrewery.com
East End Wines Wine retail shop and patio for drinking with a friendly, Austin state of mind. 512-904-9056; 1209 Rosewood Ave. eastendwinesatx.com
Pecan Street Brewing
Thirsty Planet Brewing Co.
Handcrafted beers, Texas Wines, brick oven pizzas, burgers, salads & more! Beer garden and live music on weekends. Fun and comfortable family atmosphere! 830-868-2500 106 E. Pecan St., Johnston City pecanstreetbrewing.com
Thirsty Planet is a small craft brewery located in Southwest Austin. Our tasting room is open every Saturday for tours. 512-579-0679 ;11160 Circle Dr. thirstyplanet.net
Located in the northern Hill Country, Wedding Oak Winery creates Texas wines from 100% Texas-grown warm weather varietals. Our Texas roots run deep! 325-372-4050; 316 E. Wallace, San Saba weddingoakwinery.com
Only one hour west of Austin, Perissos Vineyards is passionate about using only Texas-grown fruit to produce exceptional wines. Casual atmosphere. 512-820-2950 7214 Park Rd. 4, Burnet perissosvineyards.com
Real Ale Brewing Co. Welcome to the Texas Hill Country - the home of Real Ale Brewing Company, where a dedicated team of brewers produces quality handcrafted ales. 830-833-2534; realalebrewing.com
Maine Root Handcrafted Beverages Old-fashioned black tea concentrate made using only real cane sugar, tea leaves and filtered water—a Texas family recipe dating back to 1940. 512-517-3158; 1000 E. 40th St. maineroot.com
Moonshine Sweet Tea We are based in Austin, TX and make fair trade certified organically sweetened soft drinks and lemonades available on fountain and in bottles. 888-793-3883 6500 River Place Blvd., Bldg.2 Ste. 102 moonshinesweettea.com
Paula’s Texas Spirits
Paula’s Texas Orange Liqueur and Paula’s Texas Lemon Liqueur—all natural and handmade in Austin since 2006. Available throughout Texas. paulastexasspirits.com
BOOKSELLERS BookPeople Texas’ leading independent bookstore since 1970. Located in the heart of downtown, BookPeople has been voted best bookstore in Austin for over 15 years! 512-472-5050; 603 N. Lamar Blvd. bookpeople.com
Spec’s Wine Spirits and Finer Foods Family-owned since 1962, Spec’s offers expert service and Texas’ largest selection of wines, spirits and beers along with gourmet foods and more! 512-366-8260; 4978 W. US Hwy. 290 512-342-6893; 10515 N. MoPac Hwy. 512-280-7400; 9900 S. I-35 512-263-9981; 13015 Shops Pkwy. 512-366-8300; 5775 Airport Blvd. specsonline.com
Tequila Herradura The tequila we bottle today is the result of over 140 years of dedication to craft, and the steps in the tequila-making process remain the same as the old. 972-620-5222; herradura.com
Vineyards, winery & tasting room. 830-644-2482 12346 E. US Hwy. 290, Fredericksburg hilmywine.com
Wedding Oak Winery
Texas Legato Winery A family owned & operated winery/ vineyard specializing in Malbec & Petite Sirah. Come enjoy the view while you relax on our patio with a glass of wine. 512-556-9600 2935 FM 1478, Lampasas texaslegatowinery.com
CATERING AND MEAL DELIVERY Pink Avocado Catering A custom catering company specializing in tailored menus, incredible food & surprisingly personal service. 512-656-4348; 401 Sabine St. Ste. B pinkavocadocatering.com
Spoon & Co. Catering It’s our business to delight you with the details, memorable events with mindfully chosen, prepared and presented food and a caring crew! 512-912-6784 spoonandco.com
DESIGN AND CONSTRUCTION Texas Casual Cottages by Trendmaker Trendmaker Homes makes it easy to build a new home on your land. Come visit one of our two Model Home Parks in Round Top or Wimberley, TX. 512-392-6591; 6555 RR 12, San Marcos texascasualcottages.com
Texas Oven Co. The Austin Winery The Austin Winery is a boutique, urban winery sourcing grapes from premier regions of California and Texas to handcraft artisanal wines. 713-724-0942 9007 Tuscany Way, Ste. 100A theaustinwinery.com
Experts in designing and building woodburning ovens. Our handcrafted ovens are fire-breathing works of art. We are also a Forno Bravo pizza oven dealer. 512-222-6836; texasovenco.com
Tito’s Handmade Vodka
Auguste Escoffier School of Culinary Arts
Tito’s Handmade Vodka is handcrafted from 100% corn & distilled 6 times by Tito Beveridge in Austin, TX at America’s original microdistillery. Gluten-free! 512-389-9011; titosvodka.com
The Auguste Escoffier School of Culinary Arts is teaching the next generation of chefs and pastry chefs the importance of sustainable and ethical choices. 512-451-5743; 6020-B Dillard Cir. escoffier.edu
OTE CR EEK COY Certified Organic Feed
ABSOLUTELY NO GMOS, NO HERBICIDES OR PESTICIDES, NO ANIMAL BY-PRODUCTS, NO PHARMACEUTICALS, & NO HORMONES.
The responsibility of sustainability.
NOW SELLING PELLETED FEED, & COMING SOON, ALL NEW ORGANIC FISH FEED!
Made from the ﬁnest local grains grown by certiﬁed organic Texas farmers Like Like Us Us On On Facebook Facebook
COYOTE COYOTE CREEK CREEK ORGANIC ORGANIC FEED FEED MILL MILL & & FARM FARM
VISIT VISIT OUR OUR SITE SITE FOR FOR OUR OUR LIVESTOCK LIVESTOCK EDUCATIONAL EDUCATIONAL GUIDES GUIDES
We believe in using locally sourced ingredients in our Culinary Arts and Pastry Arts Programs. We provide individualized hands-on instruction with the classic Escoffier foundation, The Farm To Table® Experience, and a focus on sustainability.
Visit our campus and learn more about our professional programs today.
6020-B Dillard Circle Austin, Texas 78752 Ph: 512-451-5743 farm2tableaustin.com / facebook.com / escoffierschool For more information about our graduation rates, the median debt of students who completed the program, and other important information, please visit www.escoffier.edu/disclosures.
9/13/13 1:20 PM
Old-school baking with a twist!
High quality, free-range venison, antelope and wild boar meat from truly wild animals. And Diamond H Ranch Quail!
• Local Ingredients • No Corn Syrup • Special orders Available Visit our Treat Truck at Native South 10106 S. Manchaca!
pmstreats.com • follow us @pmstreats
Soup, Salads, Sandwiches, Local Beer & Wine Featuring 10 of Blanco’s Real Ale beers on tap Mon. - Thur. 10:30 am - 3:30 pm Fri. - Sat. 10:30 am - 9:00 pm
Our food is made fresh using premium products, local and organic whenever possible. 830-833-0202 / www.redbud-cafe.com
Hill Country Lavender
Texas First Commercial Lavender Farm
Farm Store & Blooming Season
Opening May 16th - July Fri & Sat 10-4 / Sun 12-4 Come enjoy the beauty of our lavender field and full line of handcrafted lavender products.
Blanco Lavender Festival June 13th - 15th Visit our year round location at Brieger Pottery Mon - Thur 10 - 5 Fri & Sat 10 - 8 / Sun 10 - 4 call 830.833.2294 or check our website
Bringing nature back to civilization • Locally grown herbs and native plants • Greenhouse, labyrinth, gardens • Classes on herbs, gardening and cooking • Handmade comestibles, gifts 407 Whitney St., Fredericksburg • 830-456-9667
doslunascheese.com • 512-963-5357
Johnny G’s Meat Market Made especially for Johnny G’ s Meat Market 11600 Manchaco Rd. H, Austin, TX 78748 (512)280-6514
The Best Little Meat Market In South Austin.
Sign Up Now
512-280-6514 11600 Manchaca Rd., Suite H, Austin, TX 78748
Fresh Organic Menu 32 Local Brews on Tap
AUSTIN ALE HOUSE Happy Hour 4-7 Sat.-Sun. 10 am-2 am Mon.-Fri. 11 am-2 am
Live Honeybee Removal Beekeeping Supplies • Consultation
ter t e l s New
301 W. 6th Street www.TheAustinAleHouse.com
We make our wine from TEXAS fruit. TexasHillsVineyard.com 1 mile east of Johnson City 830-868-2321 Tasting room open daily!
for exclusive offers from our partners! EdibleAustin.com/insiders
Lone Star Farmers Market
Der Küchen Laden
The Integrity Academy at Casa de Luz, Center for Integral Studies is a small, secular, private, year-round school serving families and children ages 3—18. 512-535-1277 1701 Tomey Rd. integrityacademy.org
Providing fresh fruits, vegetables and quality products. Located at The Shops at the Galleria every Sunday from 10 am–2 pm in the Lowe’s parking lot. 512-924-7503 12611 Shops Pkwy., Ste. 100, Bee Cave lonestarfarmersmarket.com
A neighborhood grocer committed to zero waste, local and sustainable foods, and community. Beer and wine on tap, in.house prepared goods, and a garden! 512-275-6357; 2610 Manor Rd. in.gredients.com
Der Küchen Laden is for the little chef in all of us. We have gourmet kitchenware, tools, gadgets, coffees and teas (just to name a few). Come check us out! 830-997-4937 258 E. Main St., Fredericksburg littlechef.com
The Natural Epicurean
Sustainable Food Center
The place to go for a plant-based, comprehensive professional services training, plus public events and classes. Learn here—change your kitchen; change your life. 512-476-2276l 1700 S. Lamar Blvd. naturalepicurean.com
EVENTS Culinary Adventures at the Auguste Escoffier School of Culinary Arts Culinary Adventures offers cooking classes, team building exercises and fully catered events in our beautiful garden and state of the art kitchens. 512-451-5743 myculinaryadventure.com
Edible Austin’s Sipping Social Saturday, June 21! Come to Fair Market for a rousing 1920s-themed celebration of all things beverage-related. Live music, artisanal food, hand-crafted drinks and a sprinkling of surprises! 1100 E. 5th St. edibleaustin.com/sippingsocial
Pinot’s Palette Join us for an unforgettable evening of fun, friends and fine art where you enjoy BYOB cocktails and we provide the canvases! 512-249-9672 13435 N. Hwy. 183, Ste. 306 pinotspalette.com/northaustin 512-326-2746 3005 S. Lamar Blvd., Ste. B106 pinotspalette.com/southlamar
FARMERS MARKETS Fredericksburg Farmers Market FFM is a weekly grower/producer-only farmers market in the heart of historic Fredericksburg. Farms, ranches, wineries and fresh food every Thursday 4-7 pm. 830-456-1204 Marketplatz, Fredericksburg fredericksburgfarmersmarket.com
HOPE Farmers Market at Plaza Saltillo Sundays 11 am–3 pm. Come celebrate local food, art and live music every Sunday at our unique East Austin market! We accept SNAP/WIC. Free parking. 512-553-1832 401 Comal St. hopefarmersmarket.org
SFC cultivates a healthy community by strengthening the local food system and improving access to nutritious, affordable food. 512-236-0074 400 W. Guadalupe St. 3200 Jones Rd., Sunset Valley 2835 E. Martin Luther King Jr. Blvd. 4600 Lamar Blvd. 2921 E. 17 St., Bldg C (Office) sustainablefoodcenter.org
Texas Farmers Market Cedar Park (Saturdays, 9 am–1 pm, Lakeline Mall) and Mueller Farmers Markets (Sundays, 10 am–2 pm, the historic Mueller Hangar). Open year round, rain or shine. 512-363-5700 11200 Lakeline Mall Dr., Cedar Park 4550 Mueller Blvd. texasfarmersmarket.org
FARMS Boggy Creek Farm One of the first Urban Farms in the USA, BCF offers hyper-fresh vegetables at the on-farm stand, Wed. through Sat., 9 am–1 pm. Stroll the farm and visit the hen house! 512-926-4650; 3414 Lyons Rd. boggycreekfarm.com
Coyote Creek Organic Farm and Feed Mill Coyote Creek Organic Feed Mill produces certified organic, non-GMO feed for all types of livestock. We are dedicated to local, organic, and sustainable Ag. 512-285-2556; 13817 Klaus Ln. coyotecreekfarm.org
Urban Roots Urban Roots, a non-profit organization, uses sustainable agriculture to transform lives and increase access to healthy food in Austin. 512-750-8019 2921 E. 17th St., Bldg. D Ste. 4 urbanrootsatx.org
GROCERS Farmhouse Delivery We bring the farm to your door, offering home or office delivery of local produce, meat, dairy, eggs and local, artisanal products. 512-529-8569; farmhousedelivery.com
Greenling Greenling is a home delivery service of organic & sustainably produced local food! 512-440-8449; greenling.com
Royal Blue Grocery Downtown Austin’s neighborhood grocer—with dairy, prepared foods, beer and wine, Royal Blue has it all, in a convenient and compact format. Catering too! 512-499-3993; 247 W. 3rd St. 512-476-5700; 360 Nueces St. 512-469-5888; 609 Congress Ave. 301 Brazos St., Ste. 101 royalbluegrocery.com
The Herb Bar Best place to cure what ails you and a healing resource center since 1986. Our Optimal Health Advisers are highly trained, knowledgeable and compassionate. 512-444-6251; 200 W. Mary St. theherbbar.com
Wheatsville Food Co-op Serving up local, organic, sustainable and humanely raised food since 1976. Full service deli, hot bar, salad bar, espresso bar and eating area with wi-fi. 512-478-2667; 3101 Guadalupe St. 512-814-2888; 4001 S. Lamar Blvd. wheatsville.coop
Whole Foods Market Selling the highest quality natural & organic products. 512-542-2200; 525 N. Lamar Blvd. 512-345-5003; 9607 Research Blvd. 512-206-2730 12601 Hill Country Blvd., Bee Cave 512-358-2460; 4301 W. William Cannon wholefoodsmarket.com
Fun and functional finds will make the casual cook look and feel like a celebrated chef. Gadgets to simplify, or tablescapes to mystify can all be found, in one spot. 512-480-0171 241 W. 3rd St. servegourmet.com
LANDSCAPE AND ENVIRONMENTAL Austin Water Austin Water is committed to providing for Austin’s current and future water needs in a reliable and sustainable way. 512-972-0101 austintexas.gov/department/water
Barton Springs Nursery
HEALTH AND BEAUTY Peoples Rx Austin’s favorite pharmacy for more than 30 years, Peoples integrates nutrition, supplements and medicine with natural remedies and custom Rx compounding. 512-219-9499; 13860 Hwy. 183 N., Ste. C 512-459-9090; 4018 N. Lamar Blvd. 512-444-8866; 3801 S. Lamar Blvd. 512-327-8877; 4201 Westbank Dr. peoplesrx.com
Remedy Center for Healing Arts, Inc, Claudia Voyles, LAc Come to Remedy for natural wellness. Restoring health and balance through Chinese medicine, acupuncture and herbs and other oddities. Claudia Voyles, LAc. 512-322-9648 4403 Manchaca Rd., Ste. A remedyhealing.com
HOUSEWARES AND GIFTS Callahan’s General Store “Austin’s real general store!” From hardware to westernwear, from feed to seed... and a whole lot more! 512-385-3452; 501 Bastrop Hwy. callahansgeneralstore.com
Locally grown Texas native plants. Organic pest management. Environmentally friendly soil amendments. Beautiful gifts. 512-328-6655 3601 Bee Caves Rd. bartonspringsnursery.net
Countryside Nursery & Landscape Specializing in Texas native plants with the largest selection of shade trees. Find everything for organic gardening plus gift shop and bonsai trees. 512-249-0100 13292 Pond Springs Rd. countrysideaustin.com
The Great Outdoors Nursery A garden store and so much more! 512-448-2992 2730 S. Congress Ave. gonursery.com
It’s About Thyme Garden Center Top quality culinary herbs for chefs, and native plants for gardeners. A nursery with expert staff and pocket-friendly prices. Free lectures most Sundays. 512-280-1192 11726 Manchaca Rd. itsaboutthyme.com
BEVERAGE 2014 2014 BEVERAGE
Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center
Marble Falls/Lake LBJ Chamber of Commerce & CVB
The Wildflower Center is a native plant botanic garden, a university research center and one of the 1,000 places to see before you die. 512-232-0100 4801 La Crosse Ave. wildflower.org
Visit Marble Falls, adventure by day, romance by night and an array of activities in between—wineries, lakes and caves, golf, shopping and more! 830-693-2815 100 Avenue G., Marble Falls marblefalls.org
New Braunfels Parks and Recreation
We are a garden center and teaching facility dedicated to promoting organic time-tested gardening practices. 512-288-6113 8648 Old Bee Caves Rd. naturalgardeneraustin.com
LODGING AND TOURISM Blanco Chamber of Commerce & Tourism Bureau Discover the fun and beauty of the Texas Hill Country in Blanco. We are your source for where to eat, shop, stay and play in Blanco. 830-833-5101 312 Pecan St., Blanco blancochamber.com
Brenham/Washington County CVB Visit Brenham and Washington County, home of the Birthplace of Texas, Washington-on-the-Brazos State Historic Site. Scenic drives, wineries, great lodging. 979-836-3696 115 W. Main St., Brenham visitbrenhamtexas.com
Comanche Chamber of Commerce & Agriculture Nestled in the hills of Central Texas, Comanche boasts of antique and gift shops, great restaurants and lodging facilities, an art gallery, plus lots more. 325-356-3233 304 S. Austin St., Comanche comanchechamber.org
Fredericksburg Conference and Visitors Bureau Visit Fredericksburg, a small gem nestled in the Texas Hill Country. Enjoy eclectic shops, diverse lodging, amazing restaurants and Texas wines. 866-997-3600 visitfredericksburgtx.com
The Parks and Recreation Department operates the city’s recreation programs, athletic programs and leagues, aquatic programs, and golf course along with maintaining 33 parks comprising over 500 acres. 830-221-4350 nbtexas.org
Onion Creek Kitchens at Juniper Hills Farm Cooking school, private dinners, luxury cabin rentals. 830-833-0910 5818 RR 165, Dripping Springs juniperhillsfarm.com
San Saba Economic Development Corporation Be a part of San Saba’s community and economic rebirth. Award-winning winery, olive oil co, gourmet dining, antique mercantile, historic shops & pecans! 325-372-8291 303 South Clear, San Saba sansabatexas.com
Travaasa Experiential Resorts Experiential Resort. 512-364-0061 ; 13500 FM 2769 travaasa.com
W Austin Unleash your inner soul man, rock god or indie hipster with a stay at the latest destination sensation in Austin— W Austin, featuring Trace & Away Spa. 512-542-3600; 200 Lavaca St. whotelaustin.com
Our luxurious Texas wilderness escape outside Austin is home to Wolfdancer Golf Club, Spa Django & Stories Fine Dining, featuring locally-inspired fare. 512-308-1234 575 Hyatt Lost Pines Road, Lost Pines lostpines.hyatt.com
East Side Pies
Located in the Texas Hill Country, housed in a historic early 1900’s bank. Work by national & regional artists. Figural work, Impressionistic landscapes and more. 830-693-9999; 200 Main St., Marble Falls martastaffordfineart.com
We’ve got homemade, thin crust pizzas with local veggies and meats. Glutenfree options, too! 512-524-0933 1401 Rosewood Ave. 512-454-7437 5312 Airport Blvd., Ste. G 512-467-8900 1809-1 W. Anderson Ln. eastsidepies.com
PROFESSIONAL SERVICES Austin Label Company Custom Labels up to 10 x 20 on paper, foil, synthetics, multiple adhesives, embossing, hot foil and UV coatings. Proud members of Go Texan, FTA and TWGGA. 512-302-0204; 1610 Dungan Ln. austinlabel.com
Nunnally and Freeman Dentistry Holistic dentists known the world over for excellence. 830-693-3646 2100 Hwy. 1431 W., Marble Falls healthysmilesforlife.com
The Purple Fig Cleaning Co. We are a local company providing green cleaning services, producing green cleaning products and offering green living workshops to adults and children. 512-351-1405; cleanfig.com
REAL ESTATE Land & Ranch Realty, LLC Assisting buyers and sellers in Texas land transactions involving ranches, farms and live water recreational properties. 210-275-3551; 382 Hwy. 83 S., Leakey landandranchrealty.com
RESTAURANTS Barlata Tapas Bar
PHOTOGRAPHY AND ART
Located in the heart of South Lamar. Barlata offers a variety of tapas, paellas, regional Spanish wines and cavas. Come and enjoy a bit of Spain with us. 512 473-2211 1500 S. Lamar Blvd., Ste. 150 barlataaustin.com
Blanton Museum of Art
Buenos Aires Cafe
The Blanton Museum of Art, one of the foremost university art museums in the country, offers all visitors engaging experiences that connect art and ideas. 512-471-7324 200 E. Martin Luther King Jr. Blvd. blantonmuseum.org
The Contemporary Austin Hyatt Regency Lost Pines Resort and Spa
Marta Stafford Fine Art
The Contemporary Austin reflects the spectrum of contemporary art through exhibitions, commissions, education, and the collections. With two locations and the Art School, The Contemporary aspires to be an essential part of city life. 512-453-5312; 700 Congress Ave. 512-458-8191; 3809 W. 35th St. thecontemporaryaustin.org
Austin-grown Argentine restaurant. We use only the freshest ingredients available and make an effort to support local farmers. Food made with love daily. 512-382-1189 1201 E. 6th St. 512-441-9000 13500 Galleria Cir., Bee Cave buenosairescafe.com
Green Pastures Located in old South Austin a mile-anda-half south of the river on 5 acres. Offering lunch, dinner and Sunday brunch. Catering and events on and offsite. 512-444-4747 811 W. Live Oak St. greenpasturesrestaurant.com
Hoover’s Cooking From scratch Texas home cooking. Serving comfort food favorites like CFS, meatloaf, and Southern style veggies, vegetarian options available. BBQ, Sat. and Sun. breakfast. 512-479-5006 2002 Manor Rd. 1303 Comal St. hooverscooking.com
Jack Allen’s Kitchen Texan in spirit and local in source, Jack Allen’s Kitchen serves up Texas-inspired cuisine, fresh cocktails, cold beers and good times daily. 512-852-8558 7720 Hwy. 71 W. 512-215-0372 2500 Hoppe Tr., Round Rock jackallenskitchen.com
Kerbey Lane Cafe Kerbey Lane Cafe has proudly served comfortable food at a reasonable price since 1980. Come into any of our 5 Austin locations for a taste! 512-451-1436; 3704 Kerbey Ln. 512-445-4451; 3003 S. Lamar Blvd. 512-258-7757; 13435 Hwy. 183, Ste. 415 512-477-5717; 2606 Guadalupe St. 512-899-1500; 4301 W. William Cannon kerbeylanecafe.com
The Leaning Pear Café & Eatery Serving the Texas Hill Country fresh and seasonal favorites using local ingredients. 512-847-7327; 111 River Rd., Wimberley leaningpear.com
A casual french bistro, serving Austin since 1982, Chez Nous offers a delectable selection of regional french cuisine and wines in a relaxed, convivial and intimate atmosphere. 512-473-2413; 510 Neches St. cheznousaustin.com
Lenoir is an intimate, family-run restaurant offering a weekly, local prix-fixe menu, great wine and friendly service. 512-215-9778 1807 S. 1st St. lenoirrestaurant.com
BEVERAGE 2014 2014 BEVERAGE
MARK BITTMAN ANNA LAPPÉ TOM PHILPOTT JOAN GUSSOW PAUL GREENBERG JANE BLACK DANIELLE GOULD BRIAN HALWEIL ...and many more from our food and drink community. EDIBLE COMMUNITIES PRESENTS
MAY 10–11, 2014 • NYC JOIN THE MOVERS AND SHAKERS OF THE FOOD MOVEMENT at a two-day celebration and discussion of where it’s at and where it’s going. This annual think tank, part of the meeting of Edible magazine publishers from around the US and Canada, will feature talks and panels by farmers, chefs, drink makers, journalists, investors and food and drink enthusiasts (like you).
ATTENDEES ENJOY two days of discussions at The New School in Manhattan, food and drink tastings, as well as invitations to selected events during the weekend, from walking tours of Brooklyn’s rooftop gardens and bus trips to Hudson Valley wine country to a live FoodTech meetup.
EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM Tickets: ediblemanhattan.com/events More information: edibleinstitute.com
Wink Restaurant & Wine Bar
Come to Magnolia Cafe! Fresh food cooked with passion in a comfortable setting, kind of like your favorite aunt’s giant kitchen, if she had one. Open 24/8. 512-478-8645; 2304 Lake Austin Blvd. 512-445-0000; 1920 S. Congress Ave. themagnoliacafe.com
The daily menu is based on local artisans. Wink happily embraces omnivores, vegetarians, vegans, pescetarians and special dietary issues. 512-482-8868 1014 N. Lamar Blvd. winkrestaurant.com
Otto’s German Bistro
Otto’s offers German-inspired fare in Fredericksburg, Texas. Featuring locally sourced produce & meats. Local beers & wines on tap, handcrafted cocktails. 830-307-3336 316 E. Austin St., Fredericksburg www.ottosfbg.com
Roadhouse Bastrop Roadhouse has been voted Best Burger in Bastrop County for the past 10 years! Serving burgers, chicken sandwiches, huge salads and homemade desserts! 512-321-1803 2804 Hwy. 21 E., Bastrop roadhousebastrop.com
For Goodness Sake Natural Foods Family owned and operated health food store featuring high quality supplements, all-natural and organic bodycare plus unique grocery items. 830-606-1900 1306 E. Common St., Ste. 101, New Braunfels fgsnb.com
Cakes | Sculpted Designs Small Bites | Cake Bars Cupcakes | Popper Shots
Completely Custom & From Scratch!
4201 S. Congress #101 512.797.7367 bluenotebakery.com
Gluten Free Available!
Make It Sweet At Make It Sweet, you can find tools, supplies and ingredients to make cakes, cookies and candies and learn fun, new techniques in the classes offered. 512-371-3401 9070 Research Blvd. makeitsweet.com
Snack Bar Chef-driven, globally inspired & locally sourced menu with eco-vineyard wine, craft beer, artisan coffee and tea in a stylish relaxed space. Bring the dog. 512-445-2626 1224 S. Congress Ave. snackbaraustin.com
The Turtle Restaurant Your destination for food prepared from locally available, seasonal ingredients. 325-646-8200 514 Center Ave., Brownwood theturtlerestaurant.com
ThunderCloud Subs For fresh, fast and healthy, head on over to your neighborhood ThunderCloud Subs, Austin’s original sub shop. Now with 30 locations in Central Texas. 512-479-8805 thundercloud.com
TNT/Tacos and Tequila Fresh, handmade, and local describe this southwestern grill and tequila bar. 2013 Zagat listed TNT #1 in their top ten places to sip tequila in the US. 512-436-8226 507 Pressler St. tacos-and-tequila.com
Mission Restaurant Supply Mission Restaurant Supply is a fullservice dealer for top of the line food service equipment and supplies. Come shop with us. We are open to the public! 512-389-1705 6509 N. Lamar Blvd. 210-354-0690 1126 S. St. Mary’s St., San Antonio 361-289-5255 1737 N. Padre Island Dr., Corpus Christi 956-467-1295 3422 N. 10th St., McAllen 817-265-3973 2524 White Settlement Rd., Ft. Worth missionrs.com
Boggy Creek Farm Market Days: Wednesday through Saturday 8 AM to 1 PM www.boggycreekfarm.com
Paramount and Stateside Theatres Non-profit arts organization dedicated to preserving Austin’s most historic venues, entertaining audiences & outreaching to over 20,000 at-risk students. 512-692-0519 713 Congress Ave. austintheatre.org
COOKBOOKS FOR EVERY KITCHEN For information on advertising and listings in the directory, email email@example.com.
Willie G’s Seafood & Steaks Seafood & succulent steaks. Fantastic patio & happy hour with live music. Locally sourced features. Business lunch $15. Downtown, free valet parking. 512-236-9600 401 Congress Ave. (Frost Bank Tower) williegs.com
• Bookstore • Giftshop • Coffeehouse 9 am - 11 pm everyday shop online at: www.bookpeople.com
603 N. Lamar 472-5050
Orly Genger, Conceptual rendering for Current, 2014. Courtesy of the artist.
ART DE TERROIR
Orly Genger May 3 – August 24, 2014 Current at Laguna Gloria Good Taste: Spinning Plates Thursday, May 29
7:30 – 10:30 pm Laguna Gloria
Co-presented by Edible Austin
This quarterly series connects the art on view with local and sustainable food. Come celebrate restaurants as sites of creativity and community at a film screening amidst Orly Genger’s cascading installation, Current. Join us for light bites and cocktails provided by local restaurateurs, and a screening of the sumptuous film, Spinning Plates, in the amphitheater of Laguna Gloria. Film starts at 8:30 pm. Advanced tickets recommended. $18/$12 for members and available at thecontemporaryaustin.org/events
Jones Center 700 Congress Avenue Austin, TX 78701 512 453 5312
Laguna Gloria 3809 West 35th Street Austin, TX 78703 512 458 8191
Art School 3809 West 35th Street Austin, TX 78703 512 323 6380
SEAFOOD, STEAKS & STYLE
Locally Sourced Features Austinâ€™s Best Happy Hour 4pm-7pm Every Day Live Music Thursday-Saturday Two-Course Business Lunch $15
williegs.com | 401 Congress Ave. | Frost Bank Tower | 512.236.9600
tHe bUr e S g o E o r H c s tRavE l s e E D l
GEt SocIal wiTh Us! @WHOLEFOODSATX dOmaIn
JUST OFF MOPAC, NORTH OF BRAKER LANE GATEWAY SHOPPING CENTER
DOwnTown 6TH AND LAMAR
WILLIAM CANNON AND MOPAC HILL COUNTRY GALLERIA
Published on Apr 30, 2014
Published on Apr 30, 2014
Read about the beverage industry in Central Texas, from the history of gin to the stories of some of Austin's oldest bars.