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Treat Yourself / Restaurants Revamped / SUSTO Mezcal / Peach Season
No. 71 July/August 2020
Cel eb ra ti n g th e ver y b est of Ce n t ra l Texa s fo o d cu lt u re
Summer Vibes
Reach the Community That Supports Your Business Use our strong social and online program to reach the people who support our Central Texas community. Contact us at info@edibleaustin.com 30K monthly page views 50.1K followers 13,600 fans 100.3K monthly viewers 32.2K + followers
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Smoothie for you, smoothie for me. Peoples Deli is open, YIPPEE!!! 4018 N. Lamar 3801 S. Lamar 4201 Westbank Dr. peoplesrx.com/deli
DOWNTOWN & SUNSET VALLEY
Bring in this coupon for $3 off a smoothie! Expires Aug. 31, 2020. Limit 1 per transaction. Must present coupon at time of purchase.
Republic Square
Toney Burger Center
Saturdays, Year Round 9am - 1pm, Rain or Shine! sfcfarmersmarket.org EdibleAustin.com / 3
edible br ooklyn
TELLING THE STORY OF HOW THE CITY EATS AND DRINKS • NO. 52 SPRING 2018
THE
Drinks ISSUE
BOTTLING LIQUID COURAGE MAKING SPICEBUSH FIZZ BIOINTENSIVE ORCHARDS BOOM IRISH BARS’ FLUID IDENTITY A BREWERY-FERMENTARY-JUICERY IN ONE Member of Edible Communities
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edible COLUMBUS THE STORY OF LOCAL FOOD
Member of Edible Communities No. 39 | Winter 2019
edible east end
Celebrating the Harvest of the Hamptons and North Fork
No. 36 High Summer 2012
TasTy B&B’s Hand-PrEssEd TorTillas long island livEsToCk FarM-gEnEraTEd PoWEr
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WinEs FroM onE WoMan, PalMEr and MErlianCE MEal-WorTHy golF CoursEs Member of Edible Communities
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long island TELLING THE STORY OF HOW LONG ISLAND EATS
TELLING THE STORY OF HOW GOTHAM EATS • NO. 30 JULY�AUGUST ����
NO. 10 FALL ��� 5
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REAL GREEK YOGURT LONG ISLAND CITY BEER CRAWL THE KINSTON KRAWL IN NORTH CAROLINA CONNECTICUT SENSE MEMORIES WHAT ARE BLUE POINT OYSTERS?
GOAT MILK SOFT SERVE CONSCIENTIOUS CATERING
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CATCHING THE BLUES
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Spring 2020 MARIN & WINE COUNTRY
Celebrating the harvest of Marin, Napa and Sonoma counties, season by season
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MEMPHIS FOOD, FARM AND COMMUNITY IN THE MID-SOUTH
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- SAT 12-6 NEW HOURS! TUES CLOSED SUN & MON “Best place to cure what ails you.”
200 West Mary St. Austin 512-444-6251 Theherbbar.com
sweet!
honest ice creams
ilikelick.com
REG U LA RS
10 What’s On Our Counter 12 N otable Edibles
PEACH SEASON IS HERE
lick
CONTENTS 16
26
EDIBLE AT HOME Pizza, smokers and
WHAT'S IN SEASON
summer vibes
Tomato bruschetta and salmon heaven
Doc's Drive In Theatre Urban Roots
3O E dible Endeavor South Lamar, Mueller & North Burnet
SUSTO Mezcal VisitFredericksburgTX.com
34 Farmers Diary Jenschke Orchards
FCVB-21-EdibleAustin-JulyAug2020-EightPage-3.625x2.25-Peaches.indd 1
6/17/20 12:13 PM
44 E dible Pours Portuguese Grape Varietals
48 S napshots Around Austin 50 Where To Find It 51 E dible Ink
What's In Season In Central Texas
On The Cover Summer means frozen sweets like Sno-Beach. Photo by Ralph Yznaga.
20
38
FROZEN TREATS Chill out with these local
SPOTLIGHT ON LOCAL
cold treat faves
How restaurants are adjusting to new norms
6 / EdibleAustin.com
EdibleAustin.com / 7
PUBLISHER’S note
W
hile there are still many concerns related to health conditions from COVID-19, we were able to get out and cover some great stories for this issue of Edible Austin. It was so nice to be able to visit some of our favorite restaurants and stores, talk with people in person (albeit with face masks) and connect with the community on a more personal level. One thing that kept reverberating with us was the positivity people had for the circumstances we are all facing – Austinites, and Texans in general, are creative, resilient, determined people. We are seeing many great examples of how businesses are adapting to what may be a new normal. We’ve included a story in this issue on page 38 about how some of Austin’s restaurants are rising to the challenge and revising their business models to stay open and keep their employees, and customers, safe and healthy. Not only do restaurants and businesses face challenges due to the current health crisis, we are also seeing the challenges that minority-owned businesses continue to have to overcome as people respond to the struggles we still have with race relations across the country. Now, more than ever, our local restaurants and businesses need support from our community in order to survive. Whether it be dining on the patio, ordering take-out meals, picking up curbside items or braving the indoor experience while wearing a mask, local businesses need and appreciate all the help they can get. On page 30, you’ll find an interesting story on SUSTO Mezcal, a partnership between three women (two of which are Austinites) and an Oaxacan mezcalero. And you’ll find a heart-warming story on page 34 about how a local farm, Jenschke Orchards, has worked on their family’s land in Gillespie county just off of Highway 290 for more than 80 years, providing delicious peaches and memorable family experiences. And since we have all dealt with so much adversity during the past few months, we thought it was a perfect time to highlight some fun, delicious places to get out and indulge yourself with a nice, cold, sweet treat. You’ll find that story on page 20. We hope you enjoy this issue and wish you all continued good health, happiness and positive summer vibes. Sincerely,
PUBLISHER Monique Threadgill monique@edibleaustin.com
ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER Ralph Yznaga ralph@edibleaustin.com
EDITOR Sarah McConnell sarah@edibleaustin.com
EDITORIAL ASSISTANTS Claire Cella Stacey Ingram Kaleh
ADVERTISING SALES Stephanie Walsh stephanie@edibleaustin.com
DISTRIBUTION Craig Fisher, Flying Fish
CONTACT US 512-441-3971 info@edibleaustin.com edibleaustin.com 4611 Bee Caves Rd., Ste. 212 Austin, TX 78746
Edible Austin is published bimonthly by Edible Austin L.L.C. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be used without written permission of the publisher. ©2020. Every effort is made to avoid errors, misspellings and omissions. If, however, an error comes to your attention, please accept our sincere apologies and notify us. Edible Austin is a member of Edible Communities.
Edible Austin Mission To transform the way Central Texans eat by connecting them to the local food growers, producers and makers, thereby strengthening the local food economy and creating a sustainable local food system. Edible Austin is a locally owned media company and the authority on the local food scene as captured in print and digital and through our community events.
8 / EdibleAustin.com
Red, White & Boozy 1½ oz Tito’s Handmade Vodka 3 oz sparkling water 2 oz cranberry juice
Add Tito’s Handmade Vodka and cranberry juice to a glass with ice. Slowly pour sparkling water for a layering effect. Drop in a few blueberries and enjoy.
EdibleAustin.com / 9
W H AT ’ S
ON OUR COUNTER
Take a look at what we are enjoying this month.
DOLCE NEVE HAZELNUT SPREAD If possible, Dolce Neve Gelato is now offering something even more spectacular than their luscious gelato: hazelnut spread. It’s the perfect accompaniment to toast, strawberries, graham crackers or really anything to which you want to add a little nutty chocolate flavor. Containing only four ingredients—hazelnut, cane sugar, cocoa mass and cocoa butter—it couldn’t make for a more delicious treat. Because it’s made locally and in-house, it’s like the pantry-favorite Nutella only better. This spread is available for online orders, curbside pick-up at one of their two Austin locations or Sour Duck Market. dolcenevegelato.com
by ADDISON STARR / photography by MONIQUE THREADGILL
ROSEN’S BAGEL CO. “fROSEN” BAGELS Who doesn't like a fresh bagel straight from their own warm oven? Since the answer is “almost nobody,” Rosen’s Bagel Co. has developed a new frozen take-home option—“fRosen Bake-At-Home Bagels.” Hop on their website to place a delivery order, and choose from a variety of flavors including poppy seed, cinnamon raisin, or one of our personal favorites, everything. While you’re at it, be sure to add one of their distinctive and addictive schmears to your cart. Their newest offering is a smoked brisket cream cheese from LeRoy and Lewis. The bagels come boiled (to give them their chewy texture) and seeded, so all you have to do is pop them in the oven at 400° for about 25 minutes, and they’re ready to be enjoyed. Try out these Austin-original bagels and step up your weekday breakfast game. rosensbagels.com
TREASURED EARTH MUFFINS Trying to find healthy, gluten-free but delicious muffins can be a difficult task. Luckily, we found one for you at Treasured Earth Foods. These tasty muffins, made from almond and walnut meal, come in a variety of flavors including banana nut, blueberry, pumpkin spice and chocolate. You can even buy a sampler pack and try them all. In addition to gluten-free ingredients, Treasured Earth also prioritizes using all-natural ingredients. Scoop up a muffin or two at Whole Foods Market, Wheatsville Co-op or you can order online. treasuredearthfoods.com
10 / EdibleAustin.com
LOST PINES YAUPON TEA Make sure to add this to your list of must-tries because this tea is something special. If you haven’t tried yaupon, a native North American plant that’s a relative to yerba mate and guayusa, Lost Pines Yaupon Tea makes a slightly sweetened concentrate in a variety of flavors that’s guaranteed to be a great introduction. Our favorite flavor is their basil lemon, but they also make mint lemon and apple spice. Use the whole jar to make a half-gallon of iced tea by simply adding water and stirring. We know Texans love a glass of cold iced tea on a hot summer day, and this tea is the perfect, natural remedy. Find their concentrates, tea bags or loose leaf teas at Wheatsville Co-op, The Herb Bar or on their website. lostpinesyaupontea.com
If you have an idea for a great, local product to be featured, email us at info@edibleaustin.com.
EdibleAustin.com / 11
NOTABLE edibles
Dining at the Drive In
Doc's Drive In Theatre
by SARAH MCCONNELL / photography by DOC'S DRIVE IN
A
t Doc’s Drive In Theatre in Buda, Chris and Sarah Denny aim to bring modern flair to a 1950s classic by bridging the past and the present through new age and vintage movie showings. Located
just outside of Austin’s city limits, this unique drive in offers a number of extraordinary amenities, such as movie-themed tiny homes for those who wish to stay the night, a private beach and swimming hole and a two-story bar with a patio overlooking the theater’s screens. What really sets this drive in apart from the rest, however, is the food served at Doc’s Diner, the theater’s onsite restaurant. Inspired by their shared love for good food and traveling, the Dennys crafted the menu at Doc’s Diner specifically to emphasize fresh, highquality ingredients—which meant taste testing every single bun, cut of meat and condiment. The diner also smokes its own brisket and makes many of their own sauces and dips, like guacamole and pico de gallo, from scratch daily. What’s more: everything at Doc’s is baked rather than fried, meaning movie-goers can enjoy many of their favorite comfort foods— from chicken wings to corn dogs—guilt-free. In addition to burgers, hot dogs and a variety of other offerings, the diner has all the traditional snacks movie-goers expect: popcorn, nachos and candy. For those with kids, Doc’s Diner also offers make-your-own s’mores kits that can be picked up and enjoyed at your location of choice, whether that be the drive in’s
These childhood influences and personal touches are also reflect-
For those looking for a fun way to spend an evening with family and friends
grounds or the tailgate of your car.
ed in the menu at Doc’s Diner. The homemade sauce on the signature
(and even pets) this summer, Doc’s Drive In offers a chance to take a step
“Drive In Burger” is an attempt to replicate a special sauce from Sarah’s
back in time, curl up in the passenger seat or at the end of the tailgate and
Even with all of the seemingly fancy updates to the facility and menu, an
childhood in Washington state. Other items are named for special people
enjoy some quality time and delicious food with a film and those you care
overwhelming sense of nostalgia remains infused in the space. “Basically,
in the Dennys’ lives. “The Stanley” is the favorite sandwich of the couple’s
about most.
everything we’ve done out here is our favorite stuff in our favorite
soon-to-be 90-year-old neighbor—a grilled peanut butter, banana and
childhood memories,” Chris says. The themes of the onsite tiny homes, for
honey concoction. Other inspired menu items include “The Logan,”
example, which include Star Wars, Breakfast at Tiffany’s and Harry Potter,
a vegetarian sandwich named for Sarah’s best friend, and “The Don Juan,” a
were chosen because they were favorite childhood movies of Chris, Sarah
sandwich named for the contractor who built the drive in.
and Sarah’s sister. “We really wanted to create something where people could have a conversation, put away their phones, hang out in the car with friends and talk while a movie is going on,” Chris says. The couple likes to say that they are “in the business of creating happy memories.” By the end of 2020, Chris and Sarah plan to add an underground, 1920s-themed speakeasy complete with craft cocktails and finger foods. Much like the rest of the drive in, Chris says the idea was inspired by memories of building secret hideouts and pillow forts as a kid. The speakeasy will feature old family recipes, including a bean dip that has been passed down through generations for nearly 100 years.
12 / EdibleAustin.com
EdibleAustin.com / 13
NOTABLE edibles
Urban Roots
Transforming Young Lives While Nourishing the Community story and photography by URBAN ROOTS
On any given spring or fall Saturday, a team of Urban Roots youth can be found tending crops, leading volunteers and educating the Austin community on the inequities of our city’s food system. The 3.5-acre East Austin farm serves as both a classroom and a refuge for the youth that apply each season. Through the art of growing food, youth develop the skills and knowledge to become healthy, civically-engaged leaders in their communities. Each year, we provide paid internships and fellowships to 75 young people ages
E M O C N A C E W ER G N O R T S K C BA THAN EVER The edible austin farmers’ market guide is brought to you by
Thank youLAKELINE for supporting seasonal,
The coronavirus pandemic has left us facing shortfalls at a time when many families need help the most. Help us end summer hunger and our community can tackle recovery together.
sustainable & Local food from texas farmers & ranchers
lakeline: saturday 9a - 1p Mueller: sunday 10a - 12p for locations, vendor lists & more info visit
centraltexasfoodbank.org
17-23. Together, with more than 1,500 volunteers, they grow 30,000-plus pounds of produce annually. As we navigate the latest COVID-19 safety restrictions and a return to our typical daily operations, we remain hopeful about the future—thanks in part to an expansion of our programming. Safety permitting, South Austin interns will be back knocking on doors, engaging neighbors through block walks, house meetings and special events. When asked about her son Gerardo’s Urban Roots experience, Erica said, “It is out of the ordinary to see young women and men knocking at the door, giving you a sense of hope for the future to break the barriers we face every day. (Gerardo’s participation in the program) has brought us together as a family.” Sixty percent of the food grown is sold at our youth-led booth at
To enhance that connection, we are kicking off a new storytelling
the SFC downtown farmers market, where youth learn business
project that challenges interns to interview older adults in their
management and communication skills. The remaining 40% of
community, which will teach them about the culturally rich
produce goes to our hunger relief partners, where youth learn to
history of Dove Springs—its land, its people and its food.
better understand Austin’s food access challenges. Throughout
Whether leading farm tours, interviewing neighbors, learning
their internship, youth take positive risks, from trying new foods
the art of farming or serving their neighbors in need, the aim of
to presenting to groups of volunteers. One youth intern shared the
Urban Roots is to provide experiences that allow youth and their
impact of her experience, “I step up a lot more, I care more about
families to feel empowered in their lives and to lead the way
my community, and I eat a lot more vegetables.”
toward a food system that is deeply rooted in justice. Learn more about Urban Roots, our many programs, volunteer opportunities, produce offerings and how to donate here: UrbanRootsATX.org.
Presented by
texasfarmersmarket.org 14 / EdibleAustin.com
EdibleAustin.com / 15
edible AT
edible AT
HOME
HOME
N
othing captures the spirit of summer quite like the sound of water splashing, friends gathering and cans opening on a sunny afternoon. As the grill fires up and the smell of burgers
and hot dogs fills the air, another crowd-pleasing food comes to mind. Known for its ability to bring people together, this savory dish should not be overlooked this summer: homemade pizza. As we look forward to safely gathering with friends and families outside
by SARAH MCCONNELL
in the sun, here are four easy pizza recipes that have a little something
photography by RALPH YZNAGA
for everyone—and also happen to pair perfectly with local Texas beers, frozen margaritas, sweet tea and lemonade. These recipes are also a fun way to get the kids involved and spend a little time with them in the kitchen. If you’re feeling particularly adventurous, you can even make your own pizza dough, although a store-bought dough or crust works just as well. If you do make your own dough, be sure to allow plenty of time, as many recipes must be prepared the night before.
Veggie Pizza
Feel free to get creative with your ingredients and toppings beyond what
The saying goes that you eat with your eyes first. And, if that’s the case,
we’ve listed! One of the many joys of summer is the bounty of fresh
then the rainbow of colors on this veggie pizza—which showcases the
vegetables, fruits and herbs that the season brings. Throw in whatever
very best of the season—makes this pie satisfying just by looks alone.
additional ingredients you can harvest from your garden, pick up at the
Crunchy vegetables mixed with two types of cheese result in a beautiful,
farmers market or that simply sound delicious atop a pizza.
delicious display of the many offerings filling gardens and farmers
These pizzas can be cooked on the grill, in your kitchen oven or in a pizza oven.
Homemade Pizzas That Can't Be Topped
VEGGIE PIZZA
market stands this time of year. 1
thin-crust pizza dough (a regular-crust works too)
1 T. olive oil
Buon appetito, y’all!
¾ c. red pizza sauce 1
small green pepper, sliced
1
small red pepper, sliced
½ c. white mushrooms, sliced ½
red onion, thinly sliced
½ c. black olives, sliced ½ c. tomato, chopped 1 c. mozzarella cheese, shredded ½ c. Parmesan cheese, shaved 2 T. fresh basil, chopped 2 T. fresh oregano, chopped Brush a thin-crust pizza dough with olive oil. Then spread a thin layer of your favorite red pizza sauce across the dough. Top the sauce with sliced green and red peppers, mushrooms, red onion, black olives and chopped tomatoes—or any vegetables you have! Add shredded mozzarella and shaved Parmesan, and, finally, top with finely chopped fresh basil and oregano. Bake at 400° on a non-stick baking pan (425° for all other pans) in your kitchen oven for 20-35 minutes or until the crust is golden brown and crispy, and the cheese is melted. (If using an outdoor pizza oven, cook-time will likely be shorter.)
16 / EdibleAustin.com
MARGHERITA PESTO PIZZA
VEGGIE PIZZA
EdibleAustin.com / 17
edible AT
HOME
edible AT
HOME
Pesto, Prosciutto and Goat Cheese Pizza A pesto base topped with prosciutto and goat cheese quickly turns this pizza into a vibrant and tasty work of art. The fresh herb pesto, tangy goat cheese and delicate prosciutto come together to create a light pizza that pairs nicely with a well-stocked charcuterie board. 1
thin-crust pizza dough (a regular-crust works too)
1 T. olive oil ¾ c. pesto (plus extra for topping) ¾ c. prosciutto, rolled and thinly sliced MEATBALL & PEPPERONI CHEESE PIZZA
½ c. goat cheese, crumbled ¾ c. mozzarella, shredded Brush a thin-crust pizza dough with olive oil. Then spread a thin layer of
Meatball and Pepperoni Pizza
pesto across the dough.
This pizza is for all the meat lovers out there. In true Texas fashion, this
crumbled goat cheese, shredded mozzarella and extra dollops of pesto.
Margherita Pesto Pizza
Bake at 400° on a non-stick baking pan (425° for all other pans) in
Sometimes, the best things in life are the simplest. And this definitely
your kitchen oven for 20-35 minutes or until the crust is golden brown
applies to the classic and well-loved margherita pizza. The recipe below
and crispy, and the cheese is melted. (If using an outdoor pizza oven,
swaps pesto for red sauce as a base to further emphasize the basil
cook-time will likely be shorter.)
flavor, but feel free to substitute your favorite red sauce. Either way is
MARGHERITA PESTO PIZZA
Top the pesto with rolled and thinly sliced prosciutto, followed by
meat-heavy pizza was originally prepared in a unique oven that is both a brisket smoker on top and a pizza oven on bottom, giving this pizza a singular smoky flavor. However, if you don’t have a wood-fired pizza oven and smoker like this, not to worry—a regular oven or grill works just as well. Feel free to make your own meatballs, use store-bought or replace
guaranteed to be delicious!
meatballs with ground sausage. 1
1
regular-crust pizza dough
1 T. olive oil ¾ c. red pizza sauce 2 c. meatballs (or 1 c. ground sausage)
a regular-crust pizza dough
1 T. olive oil ¾ c. pesto MEATBALL & PEPPERONI CHEESE PIZZA
1 c. sliced mozzarella 1
¾ c. pepperoni slices
heirloom tomato, sliced
8-10. fresh basil leaves, whole
1 c. sliced mozzarella ½ c. red onion, thinly sliced
Brush a regular-crust pizza dough with olive oil. Then spread a thin layer
8-10 fresh basil leaves, whole
of pesto across the dough.
Brush a regular-crust pizza dough with olive oil. Then spread a thin layer
Top the pesto with sliced mozzarella, heirloom tomato slices and whole
of your favorite red pizza sauce across the dough.
leaves of fresh basil.
Top the sauce with whole meatballs, pepperoni slices, sliced mozzarella,
Bake at 400° on a non-stick baking pan (425° for all other pans) in
sliced red onion and whole leaves of fresh basil.
your kitchen oven for 20-35 minutes or until the crust is golden brown
Bake at 400° on a non-stick baking pan (425° for all other pans) in
and crispy, and the cheese is melted. (If using an outdoor pizza oven,
your kitchen oven for 20-35 minutes or until the crust is golden brown
cook-time will likely be shorter.)
and crispy, and the cheese is melted. (If using an outdoor pizza oven, cook-time will likely be shorter.)
PESTO, PROSCIUTTO & GOAT CHEESE PIZZA
18 / EdibleAustin.com
PESTO, PROSCIUTTO & GOAT CHEESE PIZZA
EdibleAustin.com / 19
edible TREATS
Go Ahead. Treat Yourself! by ADDISON STARR BY photography by EDIBLE AUSTIN
Cow Tipping Creamery If you want amazing soft serve ice cream,
It’s summer in Texas, and people have been quarantined in their
shaved ice at Sno-Beach, there are an abundance of choices to whet
Cow Tipping Creamery is the place to go.
houses for several months. Now is the perfect time to get out and
your whistle and satisfy your cravings. For the latest updates on hours
Pick from their own selection of creations
treat yourself to one of Austin’s many great cold treat options. From
and operational considerations, please check each location’s website
or make your own. The Brownie & Cookie
Austin’s own Lick Honest Ice Creams to Italian gelato at Dolce Neve or
for current details.
D’oh and the Gimme S’more are some of our favorites. Choose from toppings like honey dusted pecans, funfetti cake chunks or toasted coconut. You can also add one of their many sauces like strawberry purée or brown sugar hot fudge. Next time you’re looking for delicious soft serve, Cow Tipping Creamery has you covered! cowtippingcreamery.com
Lick Honest Ice Creams
Sno-Beach
Lick Honest Ice Creams certainly lives up to its name. This favorite
Snow cones: you can’t go wrong with this classic summer treat,
spot works with local farms to create unique flavors like Goat Cheese,
and Sno-Beach is serving up some of the best shaved ice in
Thyme & Honey or Roasted Beets & Fresh Mint. Their seasonal
town. This Austin original has creative flavors and an awesome
flavors
Rose
atmosphere that will make you feel right at home. Pick from fruity
& Elderberry, for instance, made with Austin-owned products
flavors like Hawaiian or Strawberry Daiquiri or try something a little
like Respect Your Elderberries syrup, Antique Rose Emporium
sweeter like Cheesecake or Cotton Candy. Make sure to try this
yellow rose petals and heirloom roses from Hausbar Urban
Austin staple that is sure to make you want summer to last forever.
Farm. Even if you are dairy-free or vegan, Lick truly has something
sno-beachatx.com
are
always
locally
sourced,
like
the
Yellow
for everyone, so make sure to add this to your summer dessert bucket list! ilikelick.com
Holla Mode Want to try a really unusual and delicious kind of ice cream? Look no further than Holla Mode. This food truck serves Thai style rolled ice cream that not only tastes great but is also fun to watch being made. Holla Mode has many specials including Remember the Alamode and Key Lime P-ice Cream. You also have the option to create your own by picking your base, flavor, chops and tops. Make sure to snap a picture before you devour it! hollamode.com
20 / EdibleAustin.com
EdibleAustin.com / 21
edible TREATS
Blenders & Bowls
Cold Cookie Company
Acai bowls have become increasingly popular,
What’s better than a cold cookie sandwich
and we can definitely see why. Blenders and
with rich, creamy ice cream on a summer
Bowls serves some of the best fruity treats in
day? If you want two delicious treats in one,
Austin and has quickly become many people’s
then head on over to Cold Cookie Company.
regular local snack spot. Try out the O.G. with
Choose from a variety of options like a cookie
acai, strawberries, bananas and apple juice or
sandwich made of Snickerdoodle cookies
the Sesher with acai, blueberries, bananas,
and Mint Monster ice cream, or you can
peanut butter and chocolate almond milk. You
try their own creation: the “Unshake.” With
really can’t go wrong with anything at Blenders
cookies and toppings layered in a cup rather
and Bowls, so head on over and try some
than mixed together, this concoction is
of their smoothies and delicious bowls.
uniquely scrumptious. Choose from a variety
blendersandbowls.com
of
cookie
select
and
from
ice
their
cream
flavors,
many
toppings
and to
make your dessert dreams come true. coldcookiecompany.com
Churro Co. churro and ice cream? Churro Co. is bringing
Amy's Ice Cream
a unique twist to this cinnamon classic and
Summer is just not as fun without ice cream
providing some of the best churro dishes
and the perfect local place to go is Amy’s Ice
around. Once you try one, you’ll want to go
Cream. You can go with a classic, local favorite
back multiple times to try every type of churro
like Mexican Vanilla or Belgian Chocolate,
they have to offer. Go for a traditional churro
or try something a little different like Zilker
and choose your dipping sauce, or literally
Mint Chip. When you visit an Amy’s, you
heat things up with the Campfire - a churro
could get some extra entertainment when a
tossed in graham cracker sugar, topped with
“Scoop” throws your ice cream into the air
Mexican chocolate sauce, whipped cream
before catching it in a cup. Amy’s is known for
and torched marshmallows. This creation is
their talented “Scoops” that can do tricks with
both a masterpiece to look at and to eat!
ice cream—a sight definitely worth seeing.
churrocoaustin.com
amysicecreams.com
What could be more satisfying than a
22 / EdibleAustin.com
EdibleAustin.com / 23
edible TREATS
Dolce Neve
Bananarchy
Real Italian gelato is one of the best cold treats
A truly unique food trailer in Austin,
you could have to satisfy your craving for
Bananarchy provides the perfect summer
something sweet on a hot summer day.
treat—cold, fruity and sweet all in one.
However picking only one flavor from Dolce
Bananarchy describes their creations as
Neve is extremely hard to do. One of our
“revolutionary desserts,” and we couldn’t
favorites is their signature Dolce Neve flavor—
say it better ourselves. Our favorite has
a delightfully creamy blend with a refreshing
to be one of their specialties, the Peanut
pop of lemon. You can also go for one of their
Butter Pie Banana, made with vegan
classic flavors like Salted Caramel or a rotating
chocolate, creamy peanut butter and graham
flavor like Tiramisu. It’s too hard to choose
cracker crumbs. Feeling creative? You can
just one flavor at Dolce Neve so don't be shy!
also build your own with a variety of different
Stop by more than once this summer and try
concoction possibilities. We promise you'll
them all. dolcenevegelato.com
go
bananas
over
these
sweet
treats.
bananarchy.net
Enjoying ice cream can be really difficult
NadaMoo
Sweet Ritual
when you can’t eat dairy. Luckily, NadaMoo
Sweet ritual offers some of the best vegan ice
is helping people enjoy ice cream without
cream in Austin. Along with their delicious
the dairy factor getting in the way. Try
flavors, they have a gorgeous store that is
out scoops of Cookie Dough Fudge, Peach
totally insta-worthy (if the inside is open) and
Cobbler or Marshmallow Stardust. One of
makes eating their ice cream that much more
our favorites is the Loaded Cookies & Cream
enjoyable. Choose from coconut milk, peanut
Shake which can be made with your choice of
butter, even sunflower seed butter bases (and
oat milk or cold brew. Make sure to visit their
so many more!) to get exactly what you want.
storefront on South Lamar or find them in
Stop by to pick up an ice cream cake for a
Whole Foods to try all of their amazing dairy-
special event or just grab a scoop for a snack.
free options. nadamoo.com
Whatever the reason, Sweet Ritual will satisfy the sweet tooth of both vegans and non-vegans alike. sweetritual.com
24 / EdibleAustin.com
EdibleAustin.com / 25
W H AT ’ S
IN
SEASON story and photography by RACHEL JOHNSON
Hot summer days in Texas call for breezy meals with simple preparations. Now is the time to take advantage of the grill, or, if the temperature is truly unbearable outside, resort to a quick sheet pan
Grilled Tomato Bruschetta with Herbed Goat Cheese
dinner straight from the oven. This month, we are leaning into Texas’ bountiful summer staples—summer squash and
Grilling tomatoes concentrates their sweetness and adds a depth of
tomatoes—for a quick side or easy appetizer.
flavor to this classic bruschetta with creamy herbed goat cheese.
How to Pick Tomatoes
Makes: 10 toasts
You really can’t go wrong with local tomatoes; Texas farmers know
Total Time: 25 minutes
just the right moment to pick them off the vine. They should have
1 lb. 1 T. 2 t. 1 t. 2 T. ¼ t. ¼ c. ½ c. ¼ c.
a pleasant fragrance, be firm to the touch (be careful not to bruise them) and have a healthy green stem. If you’re not willing to indulge in the more expensive heirloom varieties, cherry tomatoes are almost always a sure bet. They are bright, sweet and cook down seamlessly into sauces, toppings for toast and more.
cherry tomatoes (preferably on the vine) extra virgin olive oil minced garlic, divided kosher salt, divided minced parsley or basil, divided pepper cream cheese, softened plain goat cheese, softened French baguette, cut into slices Cooking spray
Prepare a two-zone grill and place tomatoes on the vine on the hot side of the grill. If you cannot find tomatoes on the vine, use pre-soaked skewers and thread individual tomatoes on skewers. Grill 2-3 minutes on each side, or until blistered. Remove from the grill and allow to cool slightly. While tomatoes are cooking, combine olive oil, 1 teaspoon garlic and ½ teaspoon salt in a large bowl. When cool, toss tomatoes with garlic marinade and 1 tablespoon of parsley or basil. Allow to sit at least 10 minutes. In a food processor, combine cream cheese, goat cheese, remaining parsley or basil, 1 teaspoon garlic, ½ teaspoon salt and ¼ teaspoon of pepper until homogenous. Just before serving, brush baguette slices with olive oil and grill MICHEILE HENDERSON
slices until charred on each side, about 2 minutes. Spread the cream cheese mixture on the charred bread and top with blistered tomatoes. Serve with more olive oil and flaky salt on top, if desired.
26 / EdibleAustin.com
EdibleAustin.com / 27
what's IN
SEASON
Sheet Pan Honey Dijon Salmon with Zucchini Dinner is a breeze with this super simple sheet pan dish with a
Apples
Mint
flavor-packed honey Dijon sauce that caramelizes in the oven.
Arugula
Okra
Makes: 2 servings
Basil
Onions
Cilantro
Parsley
1
large zucchini, sliced into ½ inch rounds
Corn, Sweet
Peaches
2
(4-6 oz.) salmon filets
2 T.
olive oil, divided
Cucumbers
Peppers, Hot
2 T.
Dijon mustard
Dill
Peppers, Sweet
2 T.
honey
½ t.
kosher salt
Eggplant
Squash, Hard
Figs
Squash, Summer
Green Beans
Tomatoes
Green Garlic
Watermelon
Leeks
Zucchini
Total Time: 25 minutes
½ t.
garlic powder
Salt and freshly cracked black pepper
Lemon wedges, for serving
Preheat the oven to 400°, and line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Place the zucchini rounds on the sheet, leaving space in the middle for salmon. Drizzle zucchini with 2 teaspoons olive oil, and season with salt and pepper. Toss to coat. Roast in the oven for 8 minutes or until slightly tender. Meanwhile, stir remaining olive oil, mustard, honey, kosher salt and garlic powder in a small bowl. Remove the tray from the oven. Place salmon in the center of the tray, and pour mustard mixture onto the filets, brushing to coat evenly. Season with salt and pepper. Return tray to oven and roast until salmon has cooked through and zucchini is browned, about 10 to 12 minutes. Distribute salmon and zucchini among plates and drizzle with remaining carmelized sauce from the bottom of the tray. Serve with lemon wedges, if desired.
28 / EdibleAustin.com
MILADA VIGEROVA
EdibleAustin.com / 29
FLAVOR
edible ENDEAVOR
MEZCAL
by SEAN ARMSTRONG photography by MELANIE GRIFFITH location courtesy of INTERO RESTAURANT
T
With A Local
he first sip hits like a truck on fire. The second, taken
A star ingredient in the region’s intoxicating cultural cocktail, mezcal
cautiously, soothes the flames to reveal its true nature: a
is deeply infused into everyday life in Oaxaca. The drink is used in
singularly smooth, sweet and smoky gift from the gods.
equal measures to complement rich meals, bless births, ward off evil
Mezcal, an artisanal Mexican spirit distilled from agave, is equal parts boisterous and shy. With a typically high proof and an antiquated
FLAVOR
spirits, mark milestones, heal wounds and treat a bewildering array of ailments—from common colds to particularly stubborn cases of susto.
production process involving underground fires, wild fermentation,
“We think it's the oldest distilled spirit in the
centuries of mystique and the occasional donkey, every sip conjures
Americas,” said Taylor. “It's been used in religious
a list of adjectives long enough to rival the most seasoned
and
sommeliers. It’s clean and crisp, earthy and elegant, vibrant and vegetal,
hundreds of years. It’s rubbed on pregnant women's
and always uniquely invigorating. Depending on the phase of the moon
bellies and used at weddings and quinceaneras.
and who you’re asking, mezcal can be either a sublime revelation or
It’s about celebrations and rituals and traditions.”
spiritual
ceremonies
for
hundreds
and
a slap in the face from someone you love. It can also be one of the most effective treatments for susto — a chronic attack of the spirit caused by a severe fright or shock. Common in Latin American cultures, susto is said to be an affliction that leaves its sufferers with a sensation of soullessness. The condition also provided inspiration for Grupo Compadres to make their own version of the cure: SUSTO Mezcal. “Susto is a startling,” said Liz Stewart, one of the Oaxaca-Austin spirit brand’s three co-owners. “It doesn’t necessarily have to be connected with a disaster. You go to a shaman, and they seal it with a sip of mezcal.”
The mingling of state and spirit stretches back at least four centuries, when Spanish conquistadors introduced the art of distillation (and, regrettably, Armageddon) to Mexico’s indigineous peoples. Seeing their initial alcohol supplies running low, the desperate conquistadors began experimenting with ways to distill liquor from the native Agave plants. Eventually, mezcal was born. A few hundred years later, the basic production process remains largely unchanged. Crispín Pérez, SUSTO’s expert mezcalero, still painstakingly crafts each and every batch by hand using many of the same methods and traditions as his long-ago predecessors. Often accompanied by his children, the Oaxaca native starts the process by slowly roasting espadín agave hearts—known as piñas—in an earthen pit oven. The cooked piñas are then crushed with help from
Stewart and long-time friends Ingrid Taylor and Titi Rodriguez
a hard-working donkey, mixed with water for fermentation, and,
launched Grupo Compadres in 2017, realizing a dream that had first
finally, distilled twice in Pérez’s copper still.
taken root over two decades ago when Stewart and Taylor were both working for the Texas Comptroller’s office. Years later, Rodriguez was introduced to the pair while serving as Minister of Tourism for the Mexican state of Oaxaca.
Pérez, part of a long line of Oaxacan mezcaleros, worked abroad for many years to support his family. Eventually, he saved enough to afford the copper still that allowed him to take his craft back home. His uniquely smooth results didn’t go unnoticed. Facilitated by
“We ended up going to Oaxaca quite a bit and getting to know the
Mexico’s mezcal regulatory body, the Consejo Regulador del Mezcal,
culture there through Titi and other friends,” said Stewart. “It’s this
a batch of Pérez’s homemade mezcal found its way into a blind
very mystical place that has a lot of ritual and tradition in the food
taste test matched up against 16 other local producers. The prize?
and the culture and the drink. And as we got to know Oaxaca, we got
A life-changing partnership with a new brand soon to be launched
to know mezcal.”
across the border: SUSTO.
30 / EdibleAustin.com
INGRID TAYLOR & LIZ STEWART (NOT PICTURED: TITI RODRIGUEZ)
EdibleAustin.com / 31
edible ENDEAVOR
“It was a good afternoon,” Taylor said of the taste test. “You don't
“Ours is artisanal, which means
know how to discern the different flavors at first, but we learned that it's three components: sweetness, smoothness and smokiness. That’s
it's always going to be small-batch.
what we ranked our tastings on.”
And that's important to us.”
Pérez’s batch was the runaway winner, earning top marks in all three categories. The partnership was made official the very next day, and Pérez invited the group to his home to seal the deal with a celebratory
—LIZ STEWART
round. “We really felt like he was someone we felt great about doing business with, and the product was one we all believed in,” said Taylor. Through Rodriguez’s connections and Taylor’s husband, who grew up in Mexico, Grupo Compadres was able to secure government grants to help get Pérez’s operation ready for export. At the same time, they began navigating the long, multinational bureaucratic maze necessary
“We're going for authenticity in the partnership,” said Stewart. “We
to secure a Normal Oficial Mexicana (NOM) certification—an official
fell in love with the variety of mezcal available, and the individual
mark of authenticity ensuring that SUSTO is the real deal.
producer stories. There aren’t any that are mass produced. Ours is artisanal, which means it's always going to be small-batch. And that’s important to us.” That commitment to authenticity means that SUSTO’s success is measured in more than just numbers. As part of their business model, Grupo Compadres is committed to making a difference on both sides of the border. The group helps support several nonprofits in Austin and has partnered with the Oaxaca Community Foundation to provide funding for textbooks and other school supplies for students in the community where SUSTO is made. For Taylor, SUSTO has always been more than just a hobby among friends. “We built a model into the business so that we give money back to the community,” she said. “And that’s been made
“The NOM requires a lot of documentation and verification that you
possible because we're building a product that's selling.”
are making a mezcal with integrity,” said Taylor. “It’s one of the things
Stewart adds that strengthening ties between the two countries has
we’re most proud of. We want this to be consistent with the principles
been a part of Grupo Compadres’ mission from the beginning. “There
we live with here, that Titi has there, and to honor the traditions of the
was a lot happening in the world when we started this that was tearing
people who make the mezcal.”
people apart and tearing us apart from our neighbors in Mexico,” she
While other brands often simply add their own label onto massproduced,
third-party
mezcals
(a
process
known
as
white-
said. “If we can make people's lives better on both sides of the border, we can deepen the connection.”
labeling), SUSTO’s production process stays true to mezcal’s
Now, as the world finds itself startled into a collective state of
homemade heritage.
susto driven by pandemic and protest, upheaval and unrest, the only certainty is that these uneasy times won’t last forever. Until then, there’s mezcal.
32 / EdibleAustin.com
EdibleAustin.com / 33
FARMERS diary JENSCHKE ORCHARDS
A
FA M I LY LEGACY That's Just Peachy
by ADA BROUSSARD / photography by PATTY ROBERTSON
I
f you’ve ever made the drive from Austin
not disappoint as he delivered everything you’d hope from an almost-
to Fredericksburg along U.S. Highway 290,
80-year-old peach farmer: warm, twinkling eyes, a delicately broken
you’ve likely been dazzled by the abundance
-in straw cowboy hat and a mustache as perfect as Jenschke peaches
of wineries, but have you ever noticed the
are pink. When I asked if the orchards we were admiring were always
countless number of peach stands? Although for
planted as peaches, he responds, “When I was a kid growing up, my
half the year many of these structures are sleepy
dad depended a whole lot on peanuts and cotton. If peanuts and cotton
and almost abandoned-looking edifices, they
did well, we did well. If it wasn’t doing well, we had to tough it out
come alive from May through August (and even
another year.” Such was the case for many family farms in the area
September and October in good years) during Texas peach season. Growing tree fruit is a long-term game. It requires the expertise of a
during the 1940s, many of which eventually plowed their peanuts and planted peaches instead.
pomologist, the risk tolerance of an entrepreneur and the wisdom and
Today, Travis’s son, Barrett, and his wife, Lindsey, run the family orchard.
patience of a sage who is willing to devote time to rearing trees that,
Lindsey describes meeting Barrett when they were going to school
depending on the year, may or may not come to fruit. According to
in Waco. “He kept saying, ‘I live in Luckenbach!’ and I was like, ‘Am I
Travis Jenschke, peach seasons can be “good or better, or bad or worse.”
supposed to know where that is?!’ And he’s like, “Haven’t you heard the
Jenschke is the second of three generations of family farmers who have
songs!?’ He was trying to name-drop, but it sadly meant nothing to me
grown peaches at Jenschke Orchards—located along 290 near the
at the time.”
Luckenbach turnoff. Gillespie County, where Jenschke Orchards resides, has over 600 acres of peach trees in production on its loamy topsoil and rolling hills, and 50 of those acres are cared for by the Jenschke family. I hadn’t planned to see Travis, the eldest living Jenschke, while visiting
Eventually, Travis and Lindsey returned to the farm where Barrett grew up. “I think Barrett always knew he would come back and take things over. But I was always under the impression that was going to be our retirement plan…” Lucky for us, Barrett and Lindsey’s retirement plan kicked in early.
the orchard, but to my delight, he was there that day. Meeting Travis did
34 / EdibleAustin.com
EdibleAustin.com / 35
FARMERS diary
FARMERS diary to selling solely from roadside stands. To name a few: kids climbing peach trees and potentially damaging the precious fruit, or worse, the trees themselves, or visitors exploring the orchards after extended
“When the last peach is picked, the next season begins.” —TRAVIS JENSCHKE
wine tastings and making rosé-all-day-like decisions. For the Jenschkes, however, part of the joy of growing peaches is to connect with their customers in this unique way, greeting them as they return from the fields with sticky fingers, red cheeks and proudly toting a bushel of freestones. Lindsey elaborates, “Some people are really interested in the farming aspect. Some people, they come out because it’s just a tradition. We have people who have gotten engaged here, and then come back with their baby, and then their second baby, and some are on their third and fourth, and it’s every year. We’ve gotten to know families who come with their parents, and then maybe the next season they're visiting with just one parent. You really make a connection with certain families. There is a story there, and you become friends.”
When Barrett was 10 years old (and before traffic on 290 was a factor), he
for senior portraits), there are a bushel’s worth of
hooked up a watermelon-filled wagon to his four-wheeler and began the
dangers that can still threaten a successful summer
family tradition of selling fruit by the roadside. In his teens, he converted
crop: late-season freezes, stink bugs, grasshoppers,
If you visit Jenschke Orchards during peach season, and likely during
an antique covered wagon into a vegetable stand, which he eventually
diseases, floods, hail, global pandemics…you name it.
pumpkin patch and strawberry time, too, you can almost feel the memories
upgraded to a small covered barn. If you visit this summer, you’ll find a newly finished (and notably air-conditioned) storefront with tall raftered ceilings and the aromas of just-baked cobbler. There is a wall of shelves lined with peach preserves, peach salsa, peach butter and other products to delight visitors and give the Jenschkes an outlet for surplus fruit.
I visited the Jenschkes the day after some substantial rain. Red mud caked my farm boots, and I saw two carefree kids, clutching flip flops, wading their way from the blackberry patch over to the peaches through deep mud they gleefully chose not to avoid. Though I’m sure the Jenschkes would not recommend walking around
Over the past decade, Barrett and Lindsey have busily diversified
barefoot in the orchards, I couldn’t help but notice that it was, in fact,
the business beyond peaches, too, now offering almost year-round
possible to do. Opening up a farm for picking isn’t as simple as it may
pick-your-own experiences. “We do strawberries starting about mid-
sound, and I could think of a million reasons why farmers would stick
March,” Lindsey says. “And from strawberries, we’ll go to peaches and blackberries. And then from peaches, we’ll go straight into pumpkins—a pick-your-own pumpkin patch.” There are hayrides in
being made. What better way to embrace Texas seasonality than to brave a 100-degree summer day and taste a peach, plucked at its exact moment of perfect ripeness, warm from the sun with insides that explode with sugar and actually melt inside your mouth? And yes, you can taste as many peaches as you’d like while picking your own. “How else would you know if they’re good?” Lindsey asks. For the most up-to-date U-Pick information, check out the Jenschke Orchards Facebook page or simply give the shop a call. It will likely be Lindsey that answers.
Peach Crisp
the fall, corn mazes, a giant pit of (actual) corn for kids to play in,
Serving size may vary
Christmas trees, an on-orchard Airbnb and more. “As my father-in-
Total Time: 1 hour 20 minutes
law (Travis) always says, ‘When the last peach is picked, the next 6-8
medium-sized ripe peaches
1 t.
cinnamon
Peaches remain the Jenschke’s biggest crop, though, and it’s a family
½ c.
water
decree—Ava (14) and Gage (10), Barret and Lindsey’s children, work
¾ c.
flour
the shop, drive tractors and help Lindsey navigate the intricacies of
1 c.
sugar
Instagram. The Jenschkes grow over 30 varieties of peaches that ripen
½ c.
butter or margarine
season begins.’”
over a period of months beginning with clingstones, like June Golds, and finishing with beloved freestones, like Cary Macs and the large
Preheat the oven to 350° or 375°. Peel peaches, remove the pits and cut
Lorings. A peach crop is most notably impacted by the average winter
into slices about ¼-inch thick. Place slices in a greased casserole dish and
temperatures in January and February; different varieties of trees
sprinkle with cinnamon and water. In a small bowl, work flour, sugar and
require a different number of hours at a certain temperature to produce
butter/margarine with fingertips until crumbly. Spread the mixture over the
buds. Even once the orchard is bright with blossoms (a popular time
peaches. Bake uncovered for 45 minutes or until peaches are soft and the top is lightly browned.
36 / EdibleAustin.com
EdibleAustin.com / 37
spotlight on LOCAL
“People in Austin are pretty
A New Frontier in Dining
resilient because of our mojo. We're all in this together.”
How five local restaurants are adapting
—JACK GILMORE
and what guests can expect when dining out by SARAH MCCONNELL
A
ustin is a city celebrated for many things: live music,
says. “There’s a lot of love and joy. A lot of people felt like they lost
Hill
its
some family members for two months.” Although Jack Allen’s and
vibrant restaurant scene. For many Austinites, seeing their
Country
views,
local
art
and,
of
course,
Salt Traders initially resisted the idea of take-out service for fear of
favorite restaurants re-open for dine-in services following COVID-19
how it would affect the quality of food they are known for, they have
closures feels like being reunited with family. However, because
embraced a new take-out menu (separate from their dine-in menu)
there are no set procedures for re-opening, it can be unclear what to
with items specifically created to travel well.
expect when dining out. Here are some of the ways iconic Austin restaurants are adapting to ever-changing circumstances and what guests can expect when they visit some of their favorite local spots.
Jack Allen's Kitchen & Salt Trader's Coastal Cooking The warm welcome and hospitality that greets guests as they walk through the doors of both Jack Allen’s Kitchen and Salt Traders Coastal Cooking are just a few of the key elements that make these restaurants feel like the community’s dining room. These Austin institutions are known not only for the delicious Texas twist they bring to comfort food and seafood classics, but also for their commitment to sourcing from local producers and giving back to the community. When Jack Gilmore, chef and co-owner, and Tom Kamm, managing partner and co-owner, made the decision to shut down all of their restaurant locations (before many other establishments) in the early stages of the COVID-19
Guests who prefer dining on-site can expect much of the same
pandemic, they sent shockwaves through the Central Texas dining
experience they know and love with just a few minor changes. In
community. Now, however, these local restaurants are open again and
addition to servers wearing masks, empty tables reserved for the
are excited to welcome the community back.
sake of social distancing and individually packaged condiments, QR
“The response from the community has been fantastic,” Gilmore
codes are now used for viewing menus and paying at the end of a meal. The dine-in menu might be a little smaller than you remember, too, because it is based on what is available from farmers, ranchers, fisherman and other local producers. “The food chain is fragile, but it’s starting to come back,” Gilmore says. Overall, Gilmore and Kamm remain optimistic about the future of Jack Allen’s, Salt Traders and Austin’s local economy because of what Gilmore describes as the city’s “mojo.” “People in Austin are pretty resilient because of our mojo. We’re all in this together,” he says with a smile. JACK GILMORE & TOM KAMM
38 / EdibleAustin.com
PHOTOS BY RALPH YZNAGA
EdibleAustin.com / 39
spotlight on LOCAL
Intero At Intero restaurant on the east side of Austin, husband and wife team Ian Thurwachter and Krystal Craig are celebrated for the innovation they bring to traditional Italian cuisine. In Italian, intero means “whole” or “entire,” reflecting the restaurant’s focus on cooking techniques that incorporate every part of the product into the fresh, locally sourced entrées prepared by Thurwachter, the executive chef. The restaurant is also celebrated for Craig’s contributions as executive chocolatier and
pastry
chef,
crafting
artisan
chocolates
and
decadent
handmade desserts.
PHOTO BY MELANIE GRIZZEL
When Intero was required to close its dining room, the restaurant
Though the dining experience may look a little different, this beloved
faced a unique dilemma. Because their mission is to create
local restaurant has found new ways, true to its vision, to serve the
a high-quality dining experience centered on artistic, gourmet
fresh and delicious Italian food they are known for.
dishes made from seasonal Texas ingredients, the restaurant had never offered take-out. Now, however, Thurwachter and Craig have reimagined their menu to accommodate take-out and sharing options that still align with the restaurant’s roots. “Dishes are a little more rustic than normal for us,” Craig says, adding that the new familystyle element is also very Italian. Guests can also order from a new prepared foods/pantry menu that includes items like house-made pastas, breads, sauces and cheeses.
“The whole idea for the supper PHOTO BY INTERO
clubs and the picnics - just like the cottages - is to go way back.”
The Wayback When standing on the quiet grounds of The Wayback, surrounded
SYDNEY SUE & VICKI BLY
—SYDNEY SUE
by Texas wildlife and sweeping Hill Country views, it’s hard to believe that downtown Austin is only 10 miles away. Founded by mother-daughter duo, Vicki Bly and Sydney Sue, in 2018, this charming boutique hotel—with eight onsite cottages and a farm-to-table café tucked off Bee Caves Road just west of Austin—feels like stepping back to a simpler time. Now, as restaurants everywhere adapt to
new
COVID-19
requirements,
The
Wayback
has
created
supper clubs and picnic options in place of normal dining services. These new offerings allow guests to experience the simple pleasures IAN THURWACHTER & KRYSTAL CRAIG
says Bly. “We want people to come and have an experience,” something she and Sue think supper clubs and picnics help foster. “I think the whole idea for the supper clubs and the picnics—just like the cottages —is to go way back,” Sue adds. “Go way back. Have a picnic. Sit on the lawn. Order a nice glass of wine. Just enjoy.”
of gathering together while practicing social distancing, enjoying the
Although the new dining experiences were created with their cottage
bucolic Texas scenery and slowing down to share a meal.
guests in mind, Bly and Sue say their doors are open to anyone who
For those dining at the restaurant, Intero just opened a brand new
The supper clubs feature a menu of family-style meals made from
patio with a sprawling courtyard well-equipped for social distancing.
fresh, farm-to-table ingredients that changes monthly. Guests can
The indoor dining room has been redesigned to align with COVID-19
expect gourmet entrées like Black Angus rib-eye served alongside
safety protocols, though the bar remains closed. Guests who wish to
buttery mashed potatoes, charred broccoli and individual servings of
take in-person cooking classes can do so as well. Through in-person
starters and desserts. Those interested in Wayback picnics can order
classes, Craig and her husband have found an innovative way to stay
prepared baskets through the cafe with all of the essentials, like
connected with regular guests and meet new ones, too.
blankets and silverware, for dining on the property.
40 / EdibleAustin.com
“It’s not going to be your in-and-out dining that we’ve typically done,”
wishes to dine at The Wayback. Whether their guests are looking for a fun way to spend a girls’ night out or for a romantic date night for two, the delicious food, Hill Country landscape and relaxed, simple atmosphere will encourage visitors of all types to step back, smile and breathe a bit easier as they take in everything The Wayback has to offer. WAYBACK PHOTOS BY RALPH YZNAGA
EdibleAustin.com / 41
spotlight on LOCAL
spotlight on LOCAL
Kerbey Lane Cafe
“We not only serve people.
Nothing says breakfast in Austin like a stack of big, fluffy pancakes
We have created a family.”
(and maybe a side of chips and queso) from Kerbey Lane Cafe. Since opening its first location in a small house on Kerbey Lane in 1980, this family-owned-and-operated restaurant—known for its scratch-
— ALMA ALCOCER
made comfort food—has become a city legend. Although grabbing brunch with friends at this beloved restaurant looks a little different these days, all eight of Kerbey Lane’s Austin-area locations have re-opened their dining rooms and patios and are eager to welcome the community back through their doors. In place of the free-standing bottles that normally line the tables, diners will receive individually packaged syrups, butters and
El Alma Cafe
other condiments as well as QR codes instead of menus. While most Kerbey Lane favorites remain on the menu, some dishes that are
Like live music, the University of Texas Longhorns and keeping it
more difficult to source, like fish, have been temporarily removed.
weird, Tex-Mex is one of the things that Austin is best known for.
The chefs, however, have introduced a new lemon poppyseed
And El Alma Cafe on Barton Springs Road is a local favorite known
pancake special and are exploring a tempting summer menu.
for the fresh take it brings to this Austin mainstay. Founded by Alma Alcocer in 2011, El Alma is described by Alcocer as a “passion project”
Guests will also see servers wearing masks and shouldn’t be alarmed
that reflects both her culinary training in fine dining and the foods
if they hear a timer go off during the course of their meal. All
she grew up eating as a child in Mexico City. Now, regulars and new
Kerbey Lane locations have an hourly timer that signals to staff
customers alike can enjoy this exquisite cuisine in the restaurant’s
it’s time to sanitize frequently touched surfaces. Social distancing
inviting indoor dining room or on their beautiful outdoor patio
decals, designed to help keep guests at least six feet apart, have been
once again.
placed in heavily trafficked areas, like host/hostess stands, outside of restrooms and on the sidewalks outside where guests have been
“I think the biggest impact for us as a restaurant has been the rules
known to wait hours for a table. “Reserved” signs are also used to mark
that we’ve had to implement for our customers and the amount
empty tables for further social distancing measures.
of things that we have had to say no to,” Alcocer says. “It’s been a
For those who prefer enjoying Kerbey Lane from the comfort of home,
learning experience.” One of the biggest transformations returning
the restaurant recently rolled out a new online ordering platform and
customers will notice is the removal of tables from the dining room,
has an exclusive partnership with Favor, which makes ordering and
eliminating customers’ “normal spots.” Alcocer remains positive,
delivery easy.
however, as many guests have expressed excitement at the restaurant’s
As far as the menu goes, guests can expect a somewhat pared back
re-opening despite the change. The small dining room remains a
version of the restaurant’s previous offerings and to view menus via
“great place for people to come and have a full meal,” she adds.
QR codes on their mobile devices. Although some favorites have
In many ways, this restaurant with its homey, down-to-earth atmosphere and extensive menu filled with rich, comforting dishes, embodies the spirit of Austin. Despite some changes, Kerbey Lane is
been removed (even Alcocer’s), like the nopalito and vegetarian
adapting and innovating and showing Austin that it will continue to
chili relleno, Alcocer reassures patrons that they will return to the menu
provide for the community just as it has for the past 40 years.
in due time. For now, the goal is to continue to prepare dishes with ingredients that are harder for customers to access at home, like quail and lamb. And for those who can’t imagine a Tex-Mex dining experience without chips and salsa, not to worry—customers are still given chips and salsa for the table, and provided with entirely new servings when they have emptied their bowls.
PHOTOS BY EL ALMA CAFE PHOTOS BY KERBEY LANE CAFE
42 / EdibleAustin.com
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edible POURS
edible POURS
Guide to Portuguese Grape Varietals
Texas Wine with a Portuguese Soul by KRISTI WILLIS / photography by RALPH YZNAGA Driving through the Portuguese countryside in the Alentejo wine
Beyond taste, Lewis prefers the Portuguese varietals for his Hill
region, you could be forgiven if you momentarily thought you were in
Country vineyards because they are more disease resistant and
the Texas Hill Country—the sunbaked hills of granite and limestone of
produce consistently high-quality grapes.
eastern Portugal have a striking familiarity. With so much in common, it is no surprise that the grapes that thrive in Portugal have found a welcome home in Texas vineyards.
In addition to using touriga nacional as a blending grape in his Round Mountain Reserve and Round Mountain Rosé, Lewis Hill Country White, a blend of albariño and verdelho. For future
Portuguese grape varietals. “I started working with Portuguese
release, Lewis is experimenting with two fortified wines—a port-
grapes, like tempranillo, touriga nacional, tinta cão and tinta amarela
style red and a Madeira-inspired white from arinto and albariño.
Lewis, co-owner and winemaker at Lewis Wines. “I thought all of those varieties just grew better than grenache, cabernet sauvignon or sangiovese, and I liked the wines. When I started making my own wine in 2010, I chose a touriga nacional, tempranillo and tinta cão blend. And it was named one of the wines of the month in Texas Monthly.” Because his early viticulture experience was with these Portuguese grapes, Lewis chose touriga nacional, tinta cão, alicante bouschet and arinto for his vines when he planted his own vineyard. “They are all experiments on our estate,” says Lewis, “but the experiment is going well.” Lewis also now manages the nearby Round Mountain Estate, which is also planted primarily with touriga nacional, tinta cão and tempranillo.
44 / EdibleAustin.com
often has a different name or spelling for the varietal. VARIETAL
Color/Characteristics
WINERY
Wines
ALICANTE BOUSCHET
RED / Originally from France, this grape is popular in Portugal and Spain. Alicante bouschet is one of the few teinturier grapes, a red grape with red flesh instead of the normal clear flesh. Alicante bouschet produces big, bold red wines. Careful! It will stain your teeth.
4R RANCH VINEYARDS AND WINERY
Portejas Texas Red Wine - touriga nacional port-style wine
LEWIS WINES
2012 Round Mountain Reserve (Portuguese varietal blend) 2019 Round Mountain Rosé 2019 Phillips Touriga Rosé 2019 Hill Country White (blend of albariño and verdelho)
LLANO ESTACADO WINERY
2017 Vinho Verde Tinto
MCPHERSON CELLARS
2018 Verde Verde (Vinho Verde style albariño and trebbiano blend)
REDDY VINEYARDS
2017 TNT Red Blend (tempranillo and touriga nacional blend)
SOUTHOLD FARM + CELLAR
2019 Live Fast, Love Hard, Die Young (Rosé of touriga nacional pétillant naturel) 2018 Little Pieces of A Big Soul (Robert Clay touriga nacional) 2017 Forgone Conclusion (alicante bouschet)
WILLIAM CHRIS VINEYARDS
2015 Touriga Nacional 2017 Touriga Nacional Phillips
ALVARINHO
WHITE / Known as albariño in Spain, this grape produces crisp, light white wines with hints of citrus and stone fruit. It is one of the main grapes used in Vinho Verde.
ARINTO
WHITE / A native white grape of Portugal, arinto creates a white wine with a little bit more body while offering hints of lemon that pair perfectly with seafood.
Wines also produced a Touriga Rosé this year and just released a
Lewis Wines, outside of Johnson City, was an early adopter of
in the first vineyard I ever worked at Pedernales Cellars,” says Doug
Portugal shares many grape varieties with neighboring Spain but
Lewis Wines isn’t alone in their enthusiasm for Portuguese
TINTA CÃO
grapes. According to the USDA 2019 Texas Wine Grape Varieties survey, plantings of touriga nacional and alicante bouschet increased by 283 percent and 322 percent in Texas, respectively. Winemakers like Pedernales Cellars, Southold Farm + Cellar,
RED / One of the grapes commonly used in a port blend, tinta cão produces high acid, high tannin wines with bright red fruit that is often compared to nebbiolo.
TINTA RORIZ OR ARAGONÊS
RED / More commonly known by the Spanish name tempranillo, tinta roriz/ aragonês plays an important part in dry red blends as well as port.
TOURIGA NACIONAL
RED / Considered the finest red grape of Portugal, touriga nacional stars in single varietal wines as well as red blends and port. The grape produces high acid, high tannin wines with deep red fruit.
William Chris Vineyards and McPherson Cellars are also incorporating these grapes into their regular offerings in styles
Texas Winery Portuguese Varietal Offerings
from a slightly sparkling pétillant naturel to complex red blends. With so much versatility, expect to find more Portuguese varietals gracing Texas wine labels soon. VERDELHO
WHITE / Known primarily as one of the key grapes of fortified wines from Madeira, verdelho also creates a fine aromatic dry white wine.
EdibleAustin.com / 45
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BEVERAGES Spec's
The Leaning Pear An eatery focused on fresh, seasonal & local food leaningpear.com
Texas Coffee Traders Serving the freshest roasted coffee texascoffeetraders.com
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FARMS & FARMERS MARKETS 44 Farms 44 Farms offers the finest meat selections 44farms.com
SFC Farmers' Markets Downtown & Sunset Valley, Saturdays 9am-1pm sfcfarmersmarket.org
Texas Farmers' Market Saturdays 9am-1pm at Lakeline Mall, Sundays 10am-2pm at Mueller texasfarmersmarket.org
STORES Book People The leading independent bookstore in Texas bookpeople.com
Central Market They live up to their promise everyday of being "Really into Food" centralmarket.com
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The Natural Gardener Austin's charming organic nursery tngaustin.com
People's RX Everyone's favorite pharmacy has it all peoplesrx.com
DINING Barlata With offerings that include more than 40 kinds of tapas
Royal Blue Grocery A modern grocery store with a local twist royalbluegrocery.com
barlataaustin.com
EVENTS, PLACES & MORE
Intero
Austin Mental Health Care
Embrace traditional & modern Italian cooking interorestaurant.com
Professional mental health care offering free consultation
Kerbey Lane Cafe
Central Texas Food Bank
Serving Austinites made-from-scratch comfort food since 1980 kerbeylanecafe.com
They supplied 39 million meals last year centraltexasfoodbank.org
512-597-6712 and communityclinical.com
ILLUSTRATION by SYDNEY CONNOR
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