Da r i a Urkineeva
Photographer Nika Kurnosova
Editor-in-chief
Anna Barr
Creative Director
Charin Chong
Deputy editor
A n d r e i Z o z u l y a - Da v i d o v
Junior editor
Carolina de Medeiros Cosme
Fashion editor
Simon Gensowski
Photo editor
R o bb e r t J ac o b s
Art editor
Dam i l o l a O s h i l aja
Art director
Va l d i s B i e l y k h thegreatfruit.com
Layout designer
Ed Blagievsky
thegreatfruit.com
Writers
E l i zab e t h A a r o n , D r . F e l i x H e i d e n r e i c h , Em i l y O l s e n , M a r k B a i g e n t , S o p h i e B a l f o u r - Ly n n
Photographers S y n c h r o d o g s , A k i r a M a t s u o , Da n i l G o l o v k i n , G o r s a d , H u b e r t C r ab i è r e s , K r i s t o p h e r O r r , M a r i ca I n n o c e n t e , S e r g e y N e am o s c o u
Side A Cover by Synchrodogs
M a s t h e a d Design by the Great Fruit
Side B Cover by Andrey Bartenev / Art Director Danil Golovkin / Photography Michael Kovynev / Photography assistant Andre Drykin @ TheAgent.ru for M.A.C. / Make-up Kate Troshko / Styling Katya Mikhaleva / Producer Full look by HUGO by Hugo Boss Title Images by Gorsad 50/50 Series by Bryan Schnelle
Published Biannually by Eclectic Media Group Ltd Registered Company Number: 9864324. Eclectic Magazine is printed by Kopa Printing and published twice a year. International Distribution by Pineapple Media Ltd All Enquires contact@eclectic-magazine.com Advertising advertising@eclectic-magazine.com
Š 2016 Eclectic Magazine in association with Eclectic Media Group Ltd and Individual Contributors. All Rights Reserved. No copy, reproduction, or retransmission is allowed in whole or in part without written permission. Eclectic welcomes new submissions and contributions for our online site. For more information visit submissions under the contact page on eclectic-magazine.com
Editor s Notes Art is a spiritual experience. It is love of creation, the unselfish act of expression for sharing or higher awakening. The church is not pageantry or a building, it is the people. We congregate at clubs, skate parks, exhibitions, concerts and even fashion weeks in good faith. We find moments of heightened consciousness at these gatherings. Catherine Baba, said to us “Any kind of creative expression should ultimately bring and celebrate love, freedom, resurrection on any level.” This issue we searched for artists bringing us good news from their journeys. We witnessed individuals who are instruments of love while exploring several scenarios of global change from the grassroots projects in the Ivory Coast or Andrey Bartenev’s School of Happiness. When we went to the opening of Frank Gehry’s I Have an Idea at the 21_21 Design Sight in Tokyo he said “Issey Miyake doesn’t design, he makes clothes. He started making pleats exploring the human scale of comfort and aesthetic.” Like Miyake, Gehry has built a career exploring impact on the individual’s life. It was growing up poor, which gave him the idea to focus on space, comfort and warmth. Our world is unstable and we need to look at where we came from to see where we are going as global citizens. We are transients, vagrants, expats, refugees, immigrants, we are the poor, and we are the rich on this pilgrimage together meeting in unconventional ways exchanging ideas. Beauty bestows grace with therapeutic qualities. We have romanticized tomorrow without manifesting today, taking time to pause, slow down, and edit the essential that we will bring on our journey. Let art in, let the light in, let love in so we can gear up to prepare us for a better, alternative future on this beautiful planet, because this world is the most beautiful thing we will ever see in our lives.
Con tri but Felix Heidenreich
Felix Heidenreich studied Philosophy and Political Sciences in Heidelberg, Paris and Berlin. Today he works in an interdisciplinary Research Center at the University of Stuttgart. His main field of interest is contemporary Political Theory. He also writes for magazines such as Lettre International or Les Temps Modernes.
Nadoukka Divin
Nadoukka Divin is a steady motion breeder born in Siberia and raised by CSM’s Fine Art faculty. Collaborating mostly with conceptual artists and fashion designers, she creates videos and experimental motion stills, abusing limitations on her Instagram storage in the interim. Nadoukka currently divides her time between Moscow, London and Paris.
Igor Samolet
Igor Samolet is a documentary photographer. The lead character of his works is a person hopping, making mistakes. The main theme of his creation is human relations. Working on projects for a long time and in personal places, the author reaches the necessary level of truth and openness and gets the possibility to see not only the joyful part of life. Igor is interested not in outer reasons of his characters’ actions, but the nature of their intimate cravings and wishes.
Sergey Neamoscou Sergey Neamoscou is a Franco-Russian analogue photographer, born and raised in Moscow, in a country that you will no longer find on the world’s map. This is country is USSR. He grew up in post soviet era. It was a time filled with dreams about a better life when being a kid he had to learn everything on my own. He spent a lot of time sitting by the window counting the cars and waiting for extra-terrestrials. He thinks this is when he learned to observe and process the world around him.
I s s u e
th
Synchrodogs
Synchrodogs is a Ukrainian photography duo since 2008, made up of Tania Shcheglova and Roman Noven. They took part in numerous group exhibitions including Girls Tribu group show in Palais de Tokyo (Paris), NordArt 2013 in Kunstwerk Carlshütte (Büdelsdorf, Germany), Vice Photo Show in Superchief Gallery, (New-York) and White Women, Sleepless Nights, Big Nudes in The Annenberg Space for Photography, Los Angeles. Their work mixes Western and Ukrainian/Byzantine tradition with references to folklore. Nudity, selfexcruciation, human nature, primitivism, symbolism, eccentricity, animalism and intuition are amongst the themes communicated by their artworks.
Philip Volkers
Philip Volkers ARPS grew up in the Wiltshire countryside. He studied Indian Philosophy and Shamanic Studies at SOAS. With a strong focus on nature and freedom of expression, Philip finds inspiration through travel, capturing both Burning Man and Mustang Monument Wild Horse Eco Resort. Recent adventures have led him to explore human gatherings; spiritual, hedonistic and both. Philip seeks to capture moments of heightened consciousness and unity within gatherings, and in doing so, encourage the viewer’s inquisitiveness to be stimulated by his images. Philip is an ambassador for Olympus.
Simone Steenberg Simone Steenberg is a Danish photographer based in London. Her work explores the female body’s interaction with clothes in a sculptural and performative way. She produces hyper-sexualized images of women that function in a subverting and confronting way, giving empowerment to the photographed women, their bodies and sexualities. In Sect Nu she was inspired by the idea of undressing. She sees her work as a visceral photographic performance reclaiming the female body and identity.
a S
i
d
e
14 Inside You 24 se ct Nu 32 The Nexus of Niche 36 Awaken 62 Creed 78 In the Atelier with Anrealage 88 Eastern Roads 92 Conrad Tokyo 98 Trail West 100 K West
15
Synchrodogs
Inside You
Fashion
23 phaze1_A3_OHWONDER.indd 1
03/12/2015 16:29
Lily wears bra by Elissa Poppy Dress by Naya Rea Underwear by Marieyat
25
Molly wears dress and shoes by Fyodor Golan Underwear by MARIEYAT
Lola Rose wears bra by Agent Provocateur Underwear by MARIEYAT Shirt by Steven Tai Shoes by Rachel Jui Chi Chang for Apu Jan
Georgia wears dress by Francis Rose Knee Bodysuit by Murmur Shoes by Melissa
Isobella wears dress by Kitty Joseph Pants and socks by MARIEYAT
Elly wears top by Hanger Inc Skirt and socks by Kitty Joseph Pants by MARIEYAT Shoes by Fyodor Golan
S ect N u Photography Styling Styling Assistant Photo Assistant Hairstyling Make-up
Simone Steenberg Faye Heran Ana Lui and Melody Mashilompan Fran Hales Sofia Sjoo, Danilo Brandimarte, Benjamin David Se-chun Liu, Laura Meloni, David Sesmero, Porsche Poon
M odels Street cast Elite London Nevs Model Agency M+P Models IMG Models Named Models
Elly and Lola Rose Georgia Isobella Lily Kawani and Sarah Molly
By E l i z a b e t h
A a r o n
WANDA NYLON started out with a clever strategy: to do one simple thing and do it to perfection. Exploiting the niche of the humble raincoat, she reinvented it to be androgynously cool, with a hint of obscenity. Snapped up immediately by over fifty stores including Harvey Nichols and Browns, Johanna found herself designing six collections in their first year. Over wine and cigarettes in a noisy terrace near her rue La Fayette studio, she shares her thoughts on fashion, feminism and family.
The Nexus of Niche with Johanna Senyk of Wanda Nylon
Fashion editor, costume designer, video stylist, casting director and now creative director of WANDA NYLON, in fifteen years Johanna Senyk has explored diverse facets of the industry. Freshly arrived in Paris at the age of seventeen, her buoyant energy landed her jobs at Crash, L’Officiel and The Face. From there, she was sent on a collaborative journey that has seen her work with the likes of Alexander McQueen, J.W. Anderson and the Hyeres International Festival of Fashion, before creating her own label.
P h o t o g r a p h y
b y
K r i s t o p h e r
O r r
33
T h e n a m e W A N DA N Y LO N i s v e r y evocative, it sounds like a character in a Tarantino film.
Your models fall within a large age range for fashion, which is very rare. How do you cast your shows?
I’m totally obsessed with plastic, with latex; it has something sexual. I always loved the fetish industry and I liked the feeling of a dancer’s nickname: two words, slightly tacky. I wanted to build on this in the same way. My family has Polish origins and I liked something short, ending with ‘a’ - I think these names sound more joyful. I wanted to make a link with contemporary fabric because that is the story of the brand. I thought about Acetate, PVC - PVC Jo? Then WANDA NYLON! To the ears, it had rhythm. I said yes, okay, that! And I love the idea that nobody knows who is behind the brand, that the concept and the clothes are strong enough to speak alone.
The women that we work with, we have to imagine that we are in love with them; we want them to be our girlfriend or our best friend. That was my brief: I’m not bothered with fourteen year old girls, blondes from nice suburbs. I want to have a crew of girls that I like and I don’t think I can have a girl and not like her six months later. All the girls we work with we use again and add in new people. In the same way, I can’t love a model and not love her older. Like Stella Tennant - I loved her then; I will love her in ten years, twenty years. For me the character and the attitude doesn’t change. Also, I prefer to have something that is not perfect in the clothes than a lie; I don’t want to fake it. It is a part of life and it is a part of feminism for me that you can be beautiful even if you’ve had a kid and your body or belly isn’t perfect.
You use a lot of unique high tech m a t e r i a l s . H o w i n v o lv e d a r e y o u i n t h e c r e a t i v e d e v e l o pm e n t o f With the polyurethane that I use, it took two years to develop with a factory in the US. It is something that is super difficult to make without it sticking, becoming yellow, that sort of thing. I remembered from my time on film sets that if you give a girl a plastic mini skirt, it doesn’t work. She will make too much noise. We have developed something comfortable and silent. I tried fifteen different companies; I developed my own textiles by making a lot of mistakes. Big, big brands call us and ask if they can rebuy our polyurethane. But I say no, it’s exclusive to us. Textiles I do for myself and when I perfect it, I keep it for my team. But it depends, for some special fabric it only takes between two and three months to develop. You’ve collaborated with other artists frequently in your career. Is that something you wish to continue? The clothes are super visual, so from the beginning I had a lot of people wanting to use them in advertising: Snoop Dogg, Rihanna, M.I.A. But I never give things away; I say if she buys it, she can take it. It’s the same for press, which surprises a lot of people. But obviously they like the clothes. Now I think we are going to have a video with Nike. They will take what we have. Step by step, if I fall in love with someone or something, when it’s a clever collaboration, I like it. If I work with someone it will be in an artistic way. It’s not a money exchange; it’s young people who like the style and energy of each other, so now I make special clothes if the collaboration is special. Do you identify as a specifically F r e n c h b r a n d o r w o u l d t h e W A N DA N Y LO N D N A b e t h e s a m e i n a ny cosmopolitan city, such as NYC? I think I’m French because I feel French; I am in Paris and have worked here for a long time. Here, you have brands for super cute girls, clean, good students, smiling and inoffensive. Or you have brands for rich girls who buy
They all had a wonderful e n e r g y o n t h e r u nw a y ; e a c h g i r l s e e m e d t o h av e h e r o wn u n i q u e personality shining through.
LVMH, drive an Austin mini and purchase one more bag every month. I wasn’t feeling represented as a Parisian. For all my girlfriends and me, cool girls who like music, like dancing, with good energy doing things with our lives, that is not for us. So I am happy to propose something for a Parisian girl that I don’t think was being represented before. But I feel French. It is my mission to make noise here, not to go there! But I will go dance in New York, for sure. Do you think the French fashion industry needs to diversify? I am a little bit bored of the Parisianist, always the same people proposing the same stuff. That’s why I think Paris, if you compare it with London, doesn’t have a lot of energy. Because you have a few people who are designing everything for the market, you don’t have a lot of different kinds of propositions. If you want to be credible, you have to work with this one for music, with this one for production and for lighting. New creative people, young people have less of a standard platform. We can make it different; we can do new things together!
Wan da N y l o n
I feel it is super interesting and super attractive to take the girls as who they are in character. For example, I have a few girls who don’t feel comfortable in a dress. I don’t want to disguise them. I want the girls to feel the clothes and be themselves. For girls, they are a little bit strong, a little bit rock and roll - they can’t be jolie madame or trop bourgeoise. I want the girls to be themselves in the clothes. We are not for shy girls!
Is that because you feel you’re c o m i n g i n t o y o u r o wn n o w , y o u h av e a c l e a r d i r e c t i o n ? Yes. And it’s different now. In the beginning I was just making a product and now it’s not the story of a product, it’s the story of a journey! So everything changed. That’s why I say I was a little naïve to think this could be like a hobby. Now, it’s a new step. Now, people propose things and for the first time I say no! That’s the best thing that I learned, because I always thought that we have to say yes. The time you spend on something, you didn’t spend on something else. Even if it’s good, I need to focus my attention. Do you project into the future a n d d r e a m a b o u t h o w W A N DA N Y LO N w i l l b e e s t a b l i s h e d i n , s a y , ten years’ time? Oh my god, ten years’ time! I hope I will have kids; that is important for me. I saw on Phoebe Philo’s website at Céline, she wrote that she stopped work, had her first kid, then her second kid in this next period - that’s on the biography. And I thought, “That is super cool to say. That when you are girls you can have a family, you can be clever, you can have an artistic point of view, do things by yourself and be independent. But to be a mother also.” So in ten years’ time, I hope I will succeed in my personal life as well, and the people who work with me also. That is the most important thing for me.
W h a t h a s b e e n t h e m o s t i mp o r t a n t d e v e l o pm e n t f r o m y o u r f i r s t collection to your latest? Now, it’s funny, it’s a second step for the brand. I was a little bit naïve in the beginning. I came up with a concept: we will do rain clothes because there is no brand that is doing sexy rainwear. I will use plastic because for me, a jacket in plastic, everybody needs to have it - it’s like a denim jacket or a trench. But you couldn’t find these pieces! There was such a huge appetite for them; it was crazy. So the new step for me was to learn to say “stop” and to learn to say “no”. I blocked everything and I said, “I want to develop the shape, the DNA, the identity of the girls; who we are, who we want to dress, the music that we like, where are we dancing, who is fun to meet, to work with”. I decided to stop and do something deeper, more profound. To focus on the show, redo the website, to make it all more powerful. For me, this season was almost like the first season. In terms of clothes and structure – play, have fun, do it more, and do it different. It would be super sad to know now where we will be in ten years’ time. Before doing something I want to diversify the product, but I have a secret project that I am very excited about. Step by step, I want to add accessories, I want to re-inject money for new propositions. And when WANDA NYLON is strong enough and developed enough, I will want to do something different because I can’t stay quiet more than ten minutes!
both
Looks
by
D R E SS C A M P
Aw a k e n 37
Dress
by
m i n t de s i g n s
F u ll
Look
by
Suzuki
Takay u k i
Dress
by
Suzuki
Takay u k i
Full Look by LIMI feu
by
Look
Dress
F u ll
by
of
Yohji
m u lle r
Y amam o t o
yoshiokubo
Yoshi
and
L u ka
i n A n r ealage
F u ll
Look
by
A n r ealage
of
m u lle r
Sh i r t
by
Ikk u n a a n d Sh o e s
Dress by Ta n k T o p Suzuki
yoshiokubo
by
Takay u k i
Bl o u s e
by
LIMI
fe u
A ki ra M at s u o Styling Ak ihi ko N e m o t o Hairstyling E i j i S at o Make-up Kot o m i Fu ku d a M o dels Yo s h i a k i H ayas hi & L u ka L o cat ion Coordinator An d re s M an ri q u e
D r e s s b y L I M U fe u
Photography
The western interest in Buddhism and quality might therefore also alarm us. As the global elite seem to have become a class of their own, as Gates and Zuckerberg are launching benevolent projects that no nation state today seem capable of, our western societies seem to become neo-feudal. As the promise of meritocracy becomes less plausible, pre-modern self technologies seem to gain importance. Isn’t it astonishing that Yoga is becoming mainstream in the West just as our societies seem to approach the model of the Indian castehierarchy? It all seems to fit too well. Social mobility is in decline, but “Real Men Do Yoga”, our T-Shirts claim.
For
many years, western designers have declared the minimalistic aesthetics of “Zen” a model of a new, more sustainable paradigm of production and consumption. The great classics of Japanese craftsmanship, the Santoku knives or the iron Iwachu teapots seem to incarnate a promise: The simplicity of a high-end quality product will not only produce a positive resonance in the mind of the person who works with it, it will be a more sustainable way of using things, because these quality products do not lose their extraordinary value.
Modern
western minimalism tries to reduce the quantity of consumption to a minimum on the one hand and maximize the experience by concentration to the essential on the other hand, in an attempt to generalize this basic idea: Less is better. Less things, less friends, less media-consumption, less obligations.
Our
quest for quality must therefore be re-examined. All the Louis Vuitton bags of middle-class women, the Swiss luxury watches or the handmade leather shoes from Oxford Street, yes even the Santoku knives in the wellordered kitchens of urban bohemian bourgeois could also be read as a simple symbolic compensation. As transnational elites from abroad let the housing prices go through the roof, more and more neighbourhoods are being gentrified, jobs are becoming ever more precarious and the internet is producing a view winners and a majority of losers (Amazon killing the small shops), the squeezed middle-class clings to the symbols of a social status it will never have. The quest for quality in that case just abstracts us from fighting the political struggles which seem, in fact, extremely difficult to win. It is tempting to look the other way.
In
that case, the quality of our objects and our consumption has a different function. They become a way not only of showing off, but of reaffirming social distinction. Research has shown that new cars spread in American suburbia the same way contagious diseases spread: In competitive mimetic patterns where the consumption of the neighbour is reproduced in order to defend the own social status. Quality in that case is not better than quantity, just different.
The
essential intuition of Japanese Zen-Buddhism is correctly caught in this quest for quality. The reduction to the essential in Zen has been bringing some order into one’s mind with the goal found in Zazen meditation. It has also included the desire to create an “orderly” environment for meditation, a proper Zendo, a wellstructured garden, clean clothing, a proper kitchen etc. There is a deep resonance between the care we take for our thoughts and the diligence we use for our household. Tidying up your place can be a symbol of getting your thoughts back in order. From this point of view, the mass-consumption of cheap and bad products, carelessly thrown away when old or broken, simply reflects the incredible mess in the minds of the modern population.
Rediscovering
the virtues of Zen could therefore be appraised as an important contribution to a more sustainable way of life. Minimizing the amount of things owned and at the same time maximising their quality will help us to overcome the “affluenza”, the vicious circle of desire for consumption and frustration by botch. Nothing seems as important, as necessary, and as simple, as a new quest for quality. A Buddhist approach can help to lower expectations, desires, craving, unrealistic ambition, and envy. Meditation can be understood as an antidote to a cultural surrounding that creates, using immense financial power, a never-ending number of desires through a giant advertising industry. The mental mess produced by publicity may be straightened out by meditation through “Letting-go”, the art of nonattachment; a counter-charm against the sirens of modern urban life.
However
, the attraction that not only Zen-Buddhism, but Buddhism in general has provoked in recent decades in the West could also be questioned. Slavoj Zizek keeps on pointing at the danger of political disinterest which he sees incarnated in the Buddhist attempt to reflect and let go our desires. It is true; Zen-Buddhism seems to go well together with a feudal society in which political participation is a priori excluded. Bringing order into our minds and houses and aiming for quality in the restricted range of our private life might also pull our attention away from political engagement or even interest. The new minimalism runs the risk of producing narrowminded people who do not only act locally, but at some point stop thinking and acting globally.
Rediscovering the synthesis of aesthetics and ethics in Zen therefore implies a transformation of this heritage. Zen has also been a counter-movement against a political Buddhism which insisted in obedience and hierarchy. The fathers of Zen such as Dogen were also freaks and almost revolutionary figures. There is an anarchic side of Zen, a will to use quality as a tool of real transformation, not just subordination. Even in our quest for quality we should keep in mind the quality of quality. Quest for Quality By Felix Heidenreich
Photography by Catharina Pavischitz
Clothes by Cunnington & Sanderson
Shoes by Carolin Holzhuber
P h oto assistan t Jus ti ne R o m uald Ha ir Chiao Chenet M a ke Up Lorandy M o de l Kinga Szo ke @ M P Pari s Lo ca tion Stella Studi o , Pari s
62
To p an d p a nts by S tella Mc C ar tn ey Sc ar f by Mee sh a
Creed
P h oto gra ph er Ro bbert Jaco bs S tyling Simon G ens o w s ki
D r e ss b y Eller y Sh o r ts b y Ha r mon y Sn e a ke r s b y Y- 3 Ska te b o a r d b y Pa lm An gels
D ress by Andrea Crew s P ant s by Michael Mic hael K o rs
Bomber jacket by John Galliano T-shirt by Huber Egloff Skirt by Pleats Please Issey Miyake
Pants by Alexandre Vauthier Sneakers by Calvin Klein Collection Skateboard by Palm Angels
Top and high waist pants by Salvatore Ferragamo Necklace by Catalina Brenes
Jacket and skirt by Acne Studios Scarf by Meesha Rings by Argument
Dress by Paul Smith T-shirt by MSGM
Dress by Huber Egloff Pants by Ainur Turisbek Skateboard by Palm Angels
Jacket by Calvin Klein Collection T-shirt by Julius
Suede Tracksuit by Loewe Earring by Ai Canon
Coat by Proenza Schouler
Dress by Allude Vest by Ilaria Nistri Necklace by Ai Canon Sneakers by Golden Goose Deluxe Brand Skateboard by Palm Angels
In The Atelier with Anrealage: The Age of Enlightment When we first saw ANREALAGE’s show in Paris two years ago, the imagery was forever ingrained and firmly planted in our imagination as we witnessed the emergence of concept, craft, and creativity pushing the boundaries of technology in a hypnotic like state. Designer Kunihiko Morinage has been carving an identity among the avant-garde for over a decade with progressive sculptural silhouettes. Morinage keeps a close observation of the age while he poses the question, “What emerges when you shine light on clothes in the dark?” White is no longer white, black is no longer black. What lingers in the dark takes on a new appearance with illumination. Recent collections explore the depths of dark and shadow through light. With the belief that there is a firm market that can focus on something creative, ANREALAGE is making a new reality in clothing beyond optical illusions. In search of the inspiration as clothing enters an age of enlightenment, we made our own pilgrimage to Tokyo to meet the designer in their atelier. Interview by Anna Barr Translation by Satoko Hayashi Photography by Andrei Zozulya-Davidov Runway Imagery from SS16 Collection “Reflect”
79
ANREALAGE has been dubbed as «Philosophical Fashion». Why is Mies Van der Rohe’s mantra “God is in the details” an inspiration for you? It is molecular. To do something different in the fashion industry, we must do something unique in the details. An architect must pay attention to every detail when creating a building, when creating clothes we must also think about every detail. Here we are in your atelier, and I feel that mantra as I see all of the time consuming patchwork that is later fit to form in the most intricate of ways. How was it putting together a team that would have both interests in fashion and technology? It is two different worlds, two different subjects. It was difficult because we collaborated with a Japanese company that makes reflectors for our spring collection; they were never part of the clothes making process before. They have the latest technology, but we had to introduce it into fashion. It was a challenge. But a successful challenge! At what point did you decide to explore the technology in textiles? I started my career with four focuses; first being analogue translated into craft work, then shape and form which was patterns. I wanted something new and the idea came to me that innovation was imbedded in technology. The fourth focus is to look at the future, beyond what is being created now. Did the importance of innovation and the role it plays in your work come from a creative or spiritual boredom? Since my childhood, I was into sci-fi; I was looking at the future. Today is beyond my expectations. As a child, I was already thinking of clothes intertwined with technology. We don’t have flying cards, but the idea of smartphones and connecting through these types of devices was something laid in my imagination that now I can explore. Do you agree with the statement “The future is now”? No. I’m not looking at making something that will be the standard thirty years from now, but something that will be the standard in three or four years. There is so much to explore. I would like to begin by exploring clothes that have never been made before. I want to make pieces that personally change the lives of individuals, not masses. To affect people individually, goes back to God being in the details. You don’t want to change the world, but the individual. Why is the individual so important? It is very important to change even one person, from this viewpoint, clothing is very personal. We spoke about connecting through devices and the virtual world; do you think the physical act of travelling is still relevant? The virtual world will grow, but just like ANREALAGE, it is a mixture of real things and unreal things that make up life and the world. I haven’t thought about travel, but I think about the virtual world of clothes.
From your first show in Tokyo in 2003 to your recent show in Paris, how did you evolve and do you feel that runway is relevant, as your shows are very interactive? ANREALAGE is a blend of Real, Unreal and Age, we have explored those concepts since the beginning. It hasn’t evolved; it has been constant all this time. «Real» exposes what we are unaware of in our everyday life, «Unreal» sees the application of unreal fantasies to our conception of clothing. With “Age”, what we do is according to the times. Our construction changes with the technology coming forward at the time along with the runway. Now, life is happening through the screens of our smartphones, we especially see this surrounding the runway. smartphones are raised everywhere and real life experiences do not count unless they are captured. This inspiration came from our runway experience and was relevant to the age for SS16, where you rely on your smartphone to actually see the core design.
Is there a utilitarian aspect to explore or purely aesthetic? We need technology in order to design for daily life, this is what we introduce. Technology is utilitarian, but by using it we can do something aesthetically fun or even further: functional. The technology we use for creation, the creation on its own is our fashion. We have used photochromic fabric and in our SS16 collection we collaborated with a Japanese company specializing in recursive reflective print that we introduced to our apparel to reflect the hidden side to clothes. The new reality is seen in the flash of the cameras. The expression is both there, in reality and the reality inside of the photographs. Why use light to demonstrate that? Is there a social aspect? There is a close relationship between clothing and light, two totally different phenomenons. Today we see our clothes under the flash of a camera, the phone, or even a security camera, when we go back to see our clothes, we are seeing it under a flash, a light. The light is a very important part of the evolution of clothing. This is why the recent collection is white to the naked eye, but in the virtual world it is colourful, it shows the two faces of this age under the flash. We are in Tokyo, a city that lights up at night. Was this part of your inspiration and the manipulation or reality that it reflects on the appearance of clothes? Walking around a city with lights, you are exposed, but I did not explore this because of Tokyo. I narrowed in on the photos we take in our daily lives and the way we used photography now. In our first Paris collection, our theme was “Real” and “Unreal”, our start is “Light” and “Shadow”. The foundation is light.
Anrealage
Anrealage
ss16 "Reflect "
$ $ $ e e n 1.
4.
2.
5.
6.
3.
For a c o r r e c t r e a d refer to numeration
87
Eastern Roads
For centuries, pilgrimages have been made East for enlightenment. Today, we are finding peace and serenity where nature and culture emerge. Austrian designer Mark Baigent takes us on the road this season from Goa to Bali.
88
1 Alila Seminyak An Exclusive Garden Retreat
2 Alila Ubud
Enchanting Hillside Sanctuary
3 Alila Diwa Goa Your Not So Typical Luxury Get
Goa! The place to go to feel free and bohemian. Back in the 60s, it was place to hide from the system and find your inner spiritual side. Today, you find one hotel compound after the other, crowds of tourists side by side wrangling for the best spot on the beach.
Cocooned on an undeveloped stretch of beach on Bali’s south west coast, those in the know will be heading to Alila Seminyak. Designed as a tropical haven, the resort is the perfect combination of a calm and restful atmosphere with the cosmopolitan buzz of popular Seminyak, which is renowned for its high-end designer boutiques, art and antique galleries. The night life here is lively and recuperation can take place at any of the resort’s five pools, the Spa Alila, or by relaxing and meditating at the temple overlooking the ocean.
Come gather with us: www.alilahotels.com
Located only minutes away from the excitement of Ubud, Bali’s artistic cultural centre, the sanctuary blends contemporary design and traditional Balinese architecture with secluded courtyards, spacious terraces and private gardens that create an intimate feeling like none other. We suggest booking the Valley Villa, located at upper level with a private walk-around deck and unobstructed views of the green rainforest canopy. Designed by Kerry Hill Architects, Alila Ubud’s infinity-edge pool has been ranked as one of the 50 most beautiful pools in the world. The centrepiece of the resort gives the impression of being suspended over the jungle high above the Ayung river below. The views stretch endlessly into Bali’s lush, green jungle valley, a true tropical mountain rainforest, with only the wildlife (including regular visits from monkeys) for company.
You will not find this atmosphere at the Alila Diwa Goa resort. Located in the south of Goa in Majorda you will look in vain for western style bars or restaurants. The Hotel offers a broad range of services from Ayurveda treatments to excursions to local hotspots. The concept of environment and sustainability is detectable everywhere, starting from the architecture where the same materials are used as local houses in India to the exquisite cuisine focusing on dishes from Goa and other parts of India. The Alila Diwa Goa encourages you to embrace Goan culture and discover a new side of luxury travel which is taking an interest in the people who make it happen.
Japan is very much a destination unto itself especially as spring sees the Hanami or Cherry Blossom season. With expansive views of the city, Conrad Tokyo is a gateway to both worlds as it overlooks the lush Hamarikyu Gardens against the iconic Tokyo Bay making an unforgettable visit for cherry blossom viewing. Like the gardens, the atmosphere at the Conrad is both inviting and relaxed. The minimalist design sees reference to Mon (the Gate) the moment you enter and Sumi-e (Japanese brush painting) style cherry blossom paintings loom above bed heads.
Conrad’s aesthetic is unparalleled luxury integrated with traditional Japanese residential architecture, creating an understated stylish sanctuary. Conrad Tokyo
Gateway to Japan
Architect Hiroaki Seki sees us revisit a rich and decorative culture as conventional motifs are modernized from lantern-style lamps, circular mirrors derived from Enso (Zen circles) symbolizing absolute enlightenment to the serene Mizuki Spa enriching the cultural aspect to Japanese baths and health. A modern interpretation of a Japanese cellar or tatami room is experienced when dining at Kazahana. Clean lines, polished woods, extensive use of traditional materials and limited colour palettes suggest an affinity for fluency and simplicity that many of us seek upon visiting Japan.
Stay Inspired by visiting www.conradhotels.com Conrad Tokyo 1-9-1 Higashi-Shinbashi 105-7337
93
London
Bouillabaisse Restaurant Sustainable coastal cuisine 4 Mill Street London W1S 2AX Indigo Stylish gluten & dairy free One Aldwych London WC2B 4BZ Piquet A very British Brassiere 92 Newman St London W1T3EZ
Moscow
Funny Cabany Where carnivores congregate Malaya Dmitrovka, 5/9 Moscow
The Top of The Standard Sophisticated supper lounge 848 Washington Street New York, NY 10014
1K Restaurant Modern flavours of Peru 13 Boulevard du Temple Paris 75003 Le Bien Aimé City of Lights’ newest gastronomic jewel 18 rue d’Anjou Paris 75001
Our global gastronomic trek
You don’t usually come back from travels in Tokyo with a customer made Kama-Asa Shoten grill, but that’s what the young founders of Jidori did whilst being inspired to bring the spirit of yakitoriyas from Japan to the heart of Dalston. Jidori is the first Yakitori restaurant to open in East London with a selection of skewers, small plates, rice dishes, ike jime fish, Spanish yuzu and Japanese vegetables. Japanese spirits, craft beers, whiskies and sakes are all a part of the Yakitori tradition for you to wash everything down.
Andaz Tavern Restaurant Haute cuisine on top of the world 1-23-4 Toranomon Minato-ku, Tokyo 105-0001 China Blue Michelin star avant-garde Chinese dining 1-9-1 Higashi-Shinbashi Minato-ku, Tokyo 105-7337
Tokyo
The Mix Restaurant at Farol Hotel Reinterpreted traditional dishes Av. Rei Humberto II de Itália, 7 Cascais, Portugal 2750-800
New York
Fortaleza do Guincho Restaurant Sensory selection of amuses bouche Estrada do Guincho Cascais, Portugal 2750-642
Paris
Aarhus Cascais
# e c l e c t i c eats
Restaurant Frederikshøj Michelin star nouvelle Nordic sweeping critics Oddervej 19-21 Aarhus, DK-8000
Peter Essential for the best of Japanese beef 1-8-1 Yurakucho Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo 100-0006 The Restaurant by Aman Japanese flourish on Western dishes 1-5-6 Otemachi Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo 100-000
Journey from Tokyo to East London @ Jidori 89 Kingsland High Street London E8 2PB
Wadakura The art of Kaiseki 1-1-1 Marunouchi Chiyoda-ku Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo 100-0005
The Richmond East London’s only “raw bar” 316 Queensbridge Rd London E8 3NH Suvlaki Greek skewers and graffiti 21 Bateman St London W1D 3AL
Jidori, London
By Emily Olsen Photos by Philip Volkers
Not quite ready to face the real world again, I was still captured by the allure of the Nevada wilds; the open skies, the sun beating down on my freckled shoulders, and the salty taste of the Black Rock flats.
trail west Finding Sanctuary on the Western Trails
If anything can be done to prolong the sweet, electric high of Burning Man, it’s a real must. So, still dusted in a stubborn layer of Nevada’s finest desert, I made my way to the north of the state for my next adventure. Hidden in a remote pocket of muscled mountains and valleys fragrant with sage brush lies Mustang Monument Wild Horse Eco Resort; a sanctuary for wild Mustang horses set up by the animal-loving philanthropist and utterly charming Madeleine Pickens.
Mustang Monument is largely the only place in America where travellers can visit wild horses and see them running free in their natural habitat, and feeding the mustangs is a big part of the experience. Riding on the back of a wagon creaking under the weight of hay bales, I found myself suddenly surrounded by a herd of chestnuts, palominos and greys, wary to begin with and then bashfully approaching their sun-kissed lunch. It’s mesmerising. The horses come closer, confident after their first course, and hungry for the clumps of hay still strewn across the wagon. Watching them relax; their eyes softening under heavy lashes, glossy
Driving up to the sanctuary is surreal. After several hours of coasting through wastelands punctuated only by deserted casinos and the faded glitz of signs for show girls, suddenly, in the distance, the faint spire of a Native American tipi peeks out between my feet that are resting on the dashboard, and pierces the cornflower sky. The brainchild of half-Lebanese, halfEnglish Pickens, Mustang Monument is now home to 670 wild mustangs that were all rescued from various ill-fates. A pest to the agricultural community, many wild mustangs are rounded up from their natural habitats only to be kept in stifling holding pens for their entire lives, or taken to the slaughterhouses across the borders in Mexico or Canada. But not when Madeleine is involved. Instead, she has been able to give hundreds of wild horses a new home in a 900 square mile ‘plot’ complete with three mountain ranges and an eco-initiative that funds the mustangs’ entirely care-free existence. A wonderland of philanthropy and luxury, guests sleep in king size sleigh beds in rustic cottages or lofty tipis, drink cocktails in the Western saloon, and dine under the stars. It’s a shiny finish on top of Madeleine’s arduous struggle to preserve a symbol of American heritage.
flanks twitching in the afternoon sun, and the occasional contented whinny, I was worlds away from my city life and felt an uncertain pull in my stomach. It was doubt. Still steadying myself from the Nevada desert festival, the mustangs threw me back into the wild, casting doubt over my entirely urban existence. Back at my cottage I submerged myself in the oval bathtub and begrudgingly washed the last evidence of Burning Man off my bronzed skin and the smell of sage and horse hair from my hands. I guess it’s time to go back to the real world.
www.mustangmonument.com
The K West Hotel & Spa is a stylish, modern beacon in Shepherd’s Bush and since its renovation in 2014, the hotel has been given a facelift to reflect on its glorious heydays as a recording studio. Once the BBC Kensington House where stars like Amy Winehouse, Bob Marley, Pink Floyd and David Bowie played on hallowed grounds, today the four-star hotel’s elegant glass exteriors house 220 spacious rooms that are tastefully designed to match the hotel’s rock ‘n’ roll heritage. The K West Hotel & Spa has been rebranded as a sleek, contemporary locale for business or leisure especially for those who enjoy wandering off the beaten track from central London. Each room is decked out in vibrant colours, and are equipped with luxury bathrooms, Wi-Fi, a tablet, an office desk, mini bar and tea & coffee making facilities as well as flat screen TVs.
K West Ho t e l
& Spa
The hotel’s laid-back aesthetic continues to the lobby and its famous library that has become the “heart” of the hotel where guests can meet and enjoy a drink in plush seats while flipping through the elaborate art/music book collection displayed there. Around the corner from the Westfield Shopping Centre and minutes away for Shepherd’s Bush underground station, the K West Hotel attracts creatives and the entertainment crowd thanks to the Empire and Apollo being nearby. Guests at the K West Hotel can also enjoy the in-house DJ at the Studio Bar on the weekends or pay a trip to the award-winning K West Spa which offers a wide range of treatments including state of the art facilities like their herbal steam room, hydrotherapy pool, an innovative “Snow Paradise”, sauna, sun meadow and fragrant foot baths. Guests can dine at the artistically decorated Studio Kitchen proposing contemporary cuisine like their “Glam Rock» afternoon tea serving casually stylish tea, cakes and cocktails. The K West Hotel & Spa is a fashionable oasis with a relaxed atmosphere and a stylish choice for your next stay in London.
99
A central European treasure, Vienna is known for its rich history, elegant architecture, illustrious composers and philosophers, but there’s much more to Austria’s historical capital than the shadow of its centuries-old splendour. Underneath its imperial surface this classic city is pulsating with a fresh wave of designers, artists, and musicians that bring a cutting-edge level of creativity. From their trendy coffeehouses, underground music scene and some of Europe’s best modern art museums, today’s Vienna is a city of contrasts where the past and the present thrive alongside each other.
TODAY’S VIBRANT VIENNA
A conscious, contemporary style has taken hold of the cityscape – their concept stores are well-curated, the restaurants are trendy without being pretentious and the nightlife is dynamic. Just walk down any street and you’re bound to stumble onto a hidden treasure. The local youth have injected a new vitality to the city and come spring, the Viennese know how to chill in style be it on the Enzis in MQ, people watching at the Donaukanal, flyby nibbling at the Naschmarket or head banging to Kiss at Rock in Vienna. This is not your grandmother’s Vienna, so urban trotters out there; it’s time to set your sights on the vibrant city to soak up some culture this spring.
1 00
Stay at From hostel to boutique to luxury, there is no shortage of choice where to lay your head. The Palais Hansen Kempinski Hotel is a Heritage-listed, five star luxury hotel in the heart of iconic Ringstraße and is a quintessential example of classic-meets-modern done right.
Opened in 2013, the elegant neo-Renaissance structure has been revitalized with a relaxed contemporary vibe and is home to a Michelin star restaurant, an Ottoman-styled spa and rooms equipped with state-of-the-art technology. If stylish boutique hotels are more your flavour, the 25hours Hotel at MuseumQuartier ticks every box. Located in the hip and happening art district and minutes away from the MuseumQuartier, the hotel’s perks include its whimsical circus décor, mermaid cave sauna and amazing rooftop bar with panoramic views that doubles as a local stomping ground.
Eat at
Vienna is not just about schnitzel and apfelstrudel, the city is teeming with great contemporary dining options. Winner of the 2016 Chef of the Year from Gault & Millau Austria, Chef Konstantin Filippou’s namesake restaurant is one of the city’s most acclaimed. The Michelin-starred restaurant attracts diners from all over the world with their modern gastronomic menus and don’t be surprised if you see the president of Austria dining next to you. Loca’s Better Eat Better is a cosy restaurant with great concept — that delicious food can also be healthy.
From his open kitchen, Chef Andreas Kurz uses locally sourced products to create innovative world-class dishes in a intimate atmosphere. For a touch of old-world charm, Vestibul sits inside the prestigious Burgtheatre, where award-winning chef Christian Domschitz prepares his signature dishes while patrons wine and dine in the stunning marble antechamber.
Editor’s pick: Renowned conductor Joji Hattori’s newly opened Shiki is the epitome of dining in style, from the dining room’s modern decor to its Japanese-influenced restrooms. Diners can choose cocktail at the bar, casual dining at the brasserie, or try their fine dining menu for a creative take on contemporary sushi.
A relative newcomer to the scene is Elektro Gönner, a former electrical shop revamped by architects who harness the potency of minimalist interiors. The artclub/filmhouse/installation space offers a daily DJ roster and monthly electro parties to a packed house of culture vultures and art aficionados. Last but not least, I have to mention Fluc and Flex, two institutions that led the renaissance of Viennese alternative electronic scene since the 90s and are still prime nightlife locals.
Tips: Everyone is welcome at Rhinoplasty, an eccentric party for cool kids organized by drag queens every other week at Club U. In the summer you can expect some hardcore outdoor parties, like Kein Sonntag Ohne Techno (No Sunday but Techno) and festivals Electric Spring in April and Donauinselfest in June. The second edition of Rock in Vienna also in June has pulled in big names like Iggy Pop and Iron Maiden. The Donaukanaltreiben music and culture festival takes place at the end of May great to spot highcalibre Austrian bands.
Shop at: Drink at: The city has some choice watering holes to choose from, starting with Top Kino, an arthouse cinema that moonlights as a shabbychic chillout for the local art crowd with cheap drinks, electronic tunes and retro décor. American bars are a sort of hallowed ground in Vienna, and drinking at Kruger’s takes you back in time to a dim-lit speakeasy where patrons sip cocktails on leather chesterfields in a cloud of cigarette smoke. The bartenders at The Sign Lounge mix cocktails like mad scientists; creative, meticulous and frankly, a tad insane. Their menu is extensive, experimental and will definitely leave an impression. Phil is like the motherland for hipsters, and it’s definitely worth a visit. The café/bar/bookstore is a local favourite where friends gather to sip on wine or vodka while lounging in comfy mismatched chairs. Next to Phil is the cryptically named and flawlessly designed If Dogs Run Free. The first thing that catches your eye is the stunning polygonal ceiling, but their creative non-cliché concoctions here have become a noteworthy talking point among locals.
In the past few years, concept stores here have ascended to almost an art form. A trip to the pristinely curated Song is like shopping in a gallery offering high-end designers from Dries van Noten to Vetements alongside Austrian fragrances, homeware and furniture against distressed industrial walls and concrete floors. The city’s first concept store Park’s minimal approach showcases ready-to-wear across two floors of stark white interiors ranging from local and international brands as well as magazines, accessories and furniture. Other addresses to check out include the edgy Eigensinnig located in a former vault for fans of all-black avant-garde, ebenBERG offering ethical fashion brands, Comerc for Austrian urban streetwear, the industrial-chic Unikatessen to discover local and international aspiring designers and Wall, a spacious boutique/hair salon stocking European designers that has become a fashion landmark.
Party at: Vienna’s underground electronic scene has stepped up its game with its world-class venues and DJs. Grelle Forelle is high on the list, focusing on underground minimal, house and techno on weekends next to the lively Donaukanal. The mysterious industrial space also offers concerts from local and international acts during the week, but be warned they have a strict no camera policy.
Designers to watch: AND_i, Kayiko, Ferrari Zöchling,
Km/a, Mark Baigent, Meshit, Roee, Susa Kreuzberger, Wabisabi.
Hidden Treasures: A unique and simple concept albeit being a curious combo, Honey and Tattoos by El Hac is pretty much self explanatory. Because who wouldn’t want to buy honey and get tattoos while in Vienna? If you’re longing to have coffee and cake at your long-lost Austrian grandma’s house, head to Vollpension. Once a pop-up, the quirky vintage café is now a permanent fixture and a rave among locals. Their concept promotes inter-generational communication as ‘Omas’ serve homemade Austrian recipes while chatting to younger diners. If you need some pampering during you’re stay, check out the Arany Spa located in the Park Hyatt Vienna. This place is like a sanctuary away from all the problems of the world with treatments and massages as well as a beautiful indoor pool and sauna to relax in. A perfect treat before hopping on your return flight.
Art Spaces: The stone-clad mumok is a beacon of MuseumQuartier for contemporary art, but there are many other spaces sprawled across the city not to miss. The MAK museum is dedicated to applied arts, design, architecture and contemporary art from all over the world with a penchant for interactive exhibitions transcending the boundaries of art and design. At the Augarten Park, the TBA21 is a free art foundation displaying experimental, transdisciplinary projects that implicate social and environmental issues. Bäckerstrasse4 is a platform dedicated for emerging artists where local and international art students can exhibit their work. The Galerie MAM is a sleek space focusing on sculptures and installations, presenting mixed works from renowned Austrian and international artists. Their recently opened space AAA (All About Art) showcases interdisciplinary works across multiple spectrums. The Konzett Gallery good place to explore works on Viennese Actionism while the Ostlicht Gallery shows local and international art photography in former industrial factory.
#M BFWRussia Backstage ZDDZ SS16 Phot o: Sasha M adem oiselle
#SPBFW Backst ag e A l i o n a N ik if or ov a S S1 6 Ph oto: A ndr ei Z oz uly a -D a v i d o v
thegreatfruit.com Andrea Crews www.andreacrews.com
J.W. Anderson www.j-w-anderson.com
ANREALAGE www.anrealage.com
LIMI feu www.limifeu.com
Barbara Bui www.barbarabui.com
Loewe www.loewe.com
Calvin Klein Collection www.calvinklein.com
Michael Kors www.michaelkors.com
Catalina Brenes www.catalinabrenes.com
MSGM www.msgm.it
Diana Law www.dianalaw.com
Palm Angels www.palmangels.com
DRESSCAMP www.dresscamp.jp
Paul Smith www.paulsmith.co.uk
DROMe www.dromedesign.it
Pleats Please Issey Miyake www.isseymiyake.com
Ellery www.elleryland.com
Proenza Schouler www.proenzaschouler.com
Golden Goose Deluxe Brand www.goldengoosedeluxebrand.com
Salvatore Ferragamo www.ferragamo.com
Harmony www.harmony-paris.com
Stella McCartney www.stellamccartney.com
Huber Egloff www.huberegloff.com
Y-3 www.y-3.com
Hugo Boss www.hugoboss.com
YOHJI YAMAMOTO www.yohjiyamamoto.com
i
e n
m
Julius www.julius-garden.jp
agaz
Allude www.allude-cashmere.com
eclectic
John Galliano www.johngalliano.com
the
Alexandre Vauthier www.alexandrevauthier.com
ip
Iro www.iroparis.com
F l
Acne Studios www.acnestudios.com
and keep reading in that direction
Stockists: