ISSUE Zero FW2013
ECLECTIC ISSUE ZERO FW2013
FROM THE EDITORS
We are excited to present you with the first issue of Eclectic Magazine for Fall 2013. Over the past few years, feminine styles border the masculine as women are on the rise in politics, heading creative teams, female solo artists are out-selling, opening businesses as successful entrepreneurs and leading in top executive chairs. In this issue, we try to take an encompassing look at the multiplicities of identities in women today, while exploring the new wave of feminism in fashion that doesn’t shy away from the romantic, fragile, yet strong. It is an exciting time as women are redefining their roles in order to adapt, whether in personal relationships or society. Photographer Lucilla Bellini sets the tone in her Florence shot editorial, Lost in Love. Designers from Glen Martens and Ilja to Alexis Reyna Al and Peachoo + Krejberg serve as inspiration for Sacred Wisdom shot on location in Paris by Robbert Jacobs - we return to the roots of story-based editorials. We hope to take you away with the mystical mood. We the Eclectic team had the opportunity to work with passionate and talented contributors, bringing the fashion capitals of London and Paris a bit closer for this first issue from music to shops to restaurants. It’s been a wild journey from starting our online magazine until the creation of our first print issue, and we would like to thank everyone who has been part of this amazing experience. We see this as just the beginning and look forward to many more Eclectic issues to come. We hope that you will join us for the ride.
EDITORS Anna Barr Anniina Mäkelä Charin Chong
w w w. e c l e c t i c - s o c i e t y. c o m copyright eclectic society © 2013 the copyright of the photos and articles published are of their authors
contents fall events in london films to watch this fall music fresh & french! meet amine bendriouich accessories for the fall
06 07 08 10 13 14 23 24 26 38
26 beauty editorial: rebel of the night seven beauty essentials keep your summer glow into fall the new smoky eye in the atelier with starkweather
COVER: Photography: Robbert Jacobs / Styling: Igor V Art Direction: Anna Barr / Make-up and Hair: Cate P Model: Dasha / Dress: ILJA
39 45 46 48 49
editorial: sacred wisdom feminism in fashion? fimpster revolution editorial: lost in love fall scents with mad et len
52 new shop alert! leon & harper 54 travel to florence in fall 56 talking to thank you, my deer 59 eclectic eats in london 60 elegant cupcakes for fall 62 haute couture fw2013 diary our special thanks to: 2e Bureau, Alexandre Boulais Communications, Alisa Morov, Amine Bendriouich, CĂŠdric Bonnard, Chiao Shen, Creative Door, Iveta Karpathyova, Leon & Harper, Paul Antoine Goutal, Shopbop, Starkweather, Thank You My Deer, Totem
Anna Blachut is a writer, illustrator and artist. Her past clients have included the Hotel Missoni, 160g Magazine, Amelia’s Magazine, Edelweiss Magazine and No Cigar Magazine.
is the stylist behind Sacred Wisdom. Since graduating from the Istituto Marangoni in London, he has assisted editorials for Harper’s Bazaar China, Dazed & Confused Japan, and Hero Magazine. Now based in Paris, he is working for one of the most exciting French fashion houses.
Cate P. has been backstage doing runway and shoots in London, New York and Paris since 1997. She brings her Parisian touch, balancing fresh and classic to Sacred Wisdom and playing with colors and textures for the fall in our beauty editorial. In addition to bringing her talents to Eclectic Society, she is launching her make-up workshops in Paris this year.
C.B. is a graphic designer inspired by all forms of creation. Addicted to music and influenced by indie rock from an early age, she is also a musician and a band manager. When she is not working for a music company in Paris, she travels the world looking for new experiences and cultures. For this issue she investigates all that is fresh in French music today.
Laura Wilkinson is a recent graduate with a degree in Fashion Buying. London based Laura shares with us the fall events not to miss out on in London.
Lucilla Bellini, based in Florence is a visual artist and fashion photographer. She shot the editorial Lost in Love on location in Italy. With so much to offer in the city of Florence, Lucilla also takes us around to some of her favorite places to visit in the city this fall.
Dani GuinsBERG is a professio-
Porschia Thomas began her
nal make-up artist in addition to be being the founder of The Session School. Her work features regularly in British Vogue, Cosmopolitan and Marie Claire. For fall, she revisits the smokey eye and advis es us on how to keep our summer glow into fall.
career as a fashion stylist while finishing her degree in political science. The former Anita Fitzgerald Award recipient brings a certain ‘je ne sais quoi’ to the fashion industry that can be likened to the ever-political Miuccia Prada. Her piece Fimpster Revolution drips in East Coast wit while deconstructing the way we look at fourth-wave feminism.
Haiti73 has been very active in bringing together the talents behind the Eclectic contributors. Since its creation in London in 2007, the 360 degree agency covers artist representation, marketing, curation and working with various industries from music, art, fashion, celebs to young designers.
has been gaining attention as one of the hottest emerging fashion photographers. Since graduating from the Art Academy of Maastricht, this Dutch born photographer is now based in Paris. Robbert shot and set up the story behind Sacred Wisdom and shows his talents in another light while shooting our beauty editorial.
AGENDA: FIVE FRESH EVENTS IN LONDON THIS FALL By LAURA WILKINSON
Sarah Lucas October 2nd – December 15th Whitechapel Gallery This fabulous quirky British artist emerged in the 1990’s delivering anthropomorphic and tragicomic sculptures. Drawing upon everyday objects from cigarettes to tights to vegetables, Lucas’ quirky image of British art addresses the universal concerns of mortality and nature. The show expands on Lucas’ yearlong project in which she created and constructed a series of sculptural installations in a formal office building. Those who believe contemporary art is a load of old tosh should see it - if only to be reminded that what counts is not so much the materials an artist uses, but the ways they are transformed. If you don’t get Lucas, you don’t get sculpture (simple). Exhibition Supported by Louis Vuitton
Frieze Art Fair 2013 October 17th – 20th Regents Park The biggest annual art event hits London for the 11th year running. Frieze Art Fair is held at Regents Park every October. The fair is staged by Amanda Sharp and Matthew Slotover, publishers of Frieze Magazine. The famous Frieze Art Fair presents a diverse menu with over more than 175 contemporary art galleries, offering something for everyone’s tastes. Frieze London is one of the world’s most influential art fairs bringing in a huge international audience to the dynamic art world of the UK capital. Once again, the fair will give a unique modern perspective on art throughout the ages. It’s the hottest date in the social calendar!
Justine Allison Ceramics, MADE by London
Alexander McQueen and Isabella Blow, Photo by David Lachapelle
MADE LONDON October 25th - 27th One Marylebone
Hello My Name is Paul Smith November 15th – March 9th 2014, Design Museum
MADE London Design and Craft Fair is back in London Town and is bigger than ever. The fair was originated in the beautiful city of Brighton, and is now one of the most respected and popular crafts event in the UK.
Paul Smith is set to be the subject of retrospective at London’s Design Museum this fall. ‘Hello, my name is Paul Smith’ will open its doors on 15th November. This exhibition is not just a tribute to the designers amazing work, but Paul Smith himself has helped curate it. Smith will personally select his collection that will go on display, along with providing narratives, placing you directly inside the mind of the designer.
You will find something different around every corner, and it is set out over 4 floors in the stunning building of the One Marylebone. Glassware, artwork, ceramics, jewellery, and textiles (home and fashion accessories) are all on offer to purchase. It’s a unique experience as you are buying directly from the artists and makers who are so passionate about their creations it’s difficult to not be inspired.
Paul Smith’s first shop which was situated in Nottingham will be recreated in the exhibition, alongside an immersive digital room rich in still and moving images. It will also showcase a selection of art, antiques, jewellery and clothing collections created by the designer. Welcome to the world of Paul Smith!
Isabella Blow: Fashion Galore! November 20th – March 2nd Summerset House, London. The exhibition of all exhibitions (in my modest opinion) has landed at Summerset House, celebrating the extraordinary life and stunning wardrobe of the late British patron of fashion and art. Isabella Blow, Fashion Galore! Will feature over hundred pieces from her individual collection. She died in 2007, after battling with depression but she is remembered today as a fashion visionary who discovered people such as Alexander McQueen and Phillip Treacy. Her love of the British countryside and love of shoes and hats will also comprise the exhibit curated by Alistair O’Neil.
«Isabella Blow made our world more vivid, trailing colour with every pace she took. It is a sorrier place for her absence. » - Daphne Guinness.
Photo by Natasha Polskaya
Fall movies to watch out for By Porschia Thomas
La Vie d’Adèle (Blue is the Warmest Color)
Only Lovers Left Alive
Inside Llewyn Davis
The line up of films this fall is of a wide variety from vampires, folk music to homosexuality - this season gives us a look into the underbelly of the human experience. We look at the five most anticipated films in art-house that are worth getting out of the house for.
1. Only Lovers Left Alive
Although another vampire romance, cult director Jim Jarmusch’s Only Lovers Left Alive is a far cry from The Twilight Saga. Featuring Tom Hiddleston and the hauntingly luminescent Tilda Swinton, this film is definitely not for kids. Explore eternal love Alexander Wang-style with amazing layers, wet slicked hair and Ray Ban-esque sunnies. Fashion ladies and gentlemen should definitely bring their sketch pads to this thriller. Release September 2013
La Danza de la Realidad (The Dance of Reality) Visually stunning, beautifully grotesque and arousing, Alejandro Jodorowsky's autobiographical account of his childhood in Chile is amazing this year, after a two decade break, to bring us La Danza de la Realidad (The Dance of Reality) being compared to Fellini’s Amarcord rather than Jodorowky’s midnight madness. Release October 2013
4. Inside Llewyn Davis 2. La Vie d’Adèle (Blue is the Warmest Colour) Winning the Palm d’Or and the International Federation of Film Critics awards at this year’s Cannes Film Festival La Vie d’Adèle (Blue is the Warmest Colour) is a provocative coming of age story about a young girl grappling with her sexual orientation. Surrealist and thought provoking, the film embodies teenage-angst with an emotional relatability that could only have been accomplished by French-Arabic director Abdellatif Kechiche. Release October 2013
An intimate look into the New York music scene of the 1960s, Inside Llewyn Davis was as pleasurable to watch as it was to listen to. Set in Greenwich Village and featuring such artists as Bob Dylan and Dave Van Ronk on the soundtrack and in-movie performances by Justin Timberlake, Carey Mulligan and Oscar Isaac, the film definitely did folk music fans proud. Directed by the Cohen Brothers, this touching drama is a must see this fall and is sure to get some Oscar buzz. Release December 2013
The name does not say it all for Lars von Trier’s Nymphomaniac. This surprisingly touching Part One of the two part duo, the second is set to be released for next year, features Charlotte Gainsbourg (last time we saw her on the big screen was opposite Pete Doherty). This story is about more than just sex as you are taken through a self-narrated autobiography of Joe Gainsbourg (Charlotte Gainsbourg), the self-proclaimed nymphomaniac from the age of 0 to 50. It is the cast that includes Shia LaBeouf, Jamie Bell, Christian Slater, and Uma Thurman working with Trier for the time that sparks our curiosity. Release December 2013
FRESH & FRENCH! Music trending in France: <<Comment ça va?>> By Cecilia Bonnet
La Femme, Photo by JF Julian
remember them: Griefjoy
Jackson and his Computer Band
Four very talented boys (average age only 22) whose music, without pretention, is a mature blend of heady electro sounds, rock power and beautiful melodies. Light and darkness on a raw rock. Play it : Touch Ground (EP) Wait for it : First album to be out on Sept. 23 Live it : Oct. 10 @ la Cigale, Paris
Turn up the volume, the one-man-machineband-producer is coming back to give us electronic lessons, and make us move of course… Play it : Vista + Arp #1 (singles) Wait for it : Glow to be out on Sept. 2
The new French fiancée is a band that shakes up the scene with its dada-pop album. It can be dark, it can be Gainsbourg, it can be surf or cold wave, all mixed with catchy beats and intelligent melodies. Play it : Psycho Tropical Berlin Live it : Sept. 18 @ Sebright Arms, London & Nov. 14 @ Le Trianon, Paris
She’s also a fashion designer, no wonder why she managed to create a multicolored patchwork of songs and styles. Like her first single says : «Easy». Play it : Mai Lan
Founded by a former M83 member, the trio delivers epic songs gliding on deep synth pads and upheld by a rock energy. Play it : We Are Two (EP) Wait for it : An album should be released next year…
The Bewitched Hands
Bewitching indeed, 6 mouths and 12 hands playing exhilarating and sincere indie-pop anthems, drawing in the best of the last 20 years. Play it : Vampiric Way
Of course you know Phoenix and their new success with Bankrupt, you’ve seen Daft Punk helmets all around, you’ve obviously danced to Justice once, dreamed away to theVirgin Suicides by Air soundtrack or fantasized about Charlotte Gainsbourg’s aura. This is all very «chic». France produces quite tasty sounds and wines... But let’s look at the next chapter: What’s happening in France, which new lands do French musicians wish to explore? Who’s behind those new names we’re hearing here and there? «Moliere’s language» is making a come back. The new generation is not embarrassed anymore to be French and sing it, starting with band names: Granville, Aline and Les filles et les Garçons. These young artists seem to be everywhere, looking like a group of friends with a taste for «yéyé vintage» going from Paris to Deauville to enjoy a sea bath «à la mode»! Easy to listen to, this wave of preppy Frenchies use a good recipe, but all of this is a bit too well-behaved, if not a little cheesy. Some bands are trying new things with the French language, attempting to give it an edge such as Fauve, a melodic rap project with full impact. La Femme does not just dance on the beach, «she» swims strangely between waves, offering a real freshness. Speaking
of «Femme», female voices are everywhere. Meet 80’s revival ambassadors like Owlle or Christine & The Queens, and charming strong pop songwriters like Mai Lan or Mina Tindle. Indeed, these two chose not to choose, alternating French and English, playing with the different influences they’ve been brought up with; mix, match and win! A taste for the 80’s is still going strong as synthetic and electronic are taking more and more space. Of course we have to mention M83 who became Pitchfork’s «grand cru» last year, surfing on returning new waves and synth sounds. This particular project seems to have been quite the breeding ground for other good bands to come. Team Ghost‘s dark Rituals released this year proved how these «vintage» influences could be taken over by a mutating a generation ready to rock it. Same root, different mood, Stal takes shoegaze and makes it more luminous. As we know, France is not bad with producing; masters like Jackson and his Computer Band prove a good level of creativity. With generation YouTube, frontiers disappear and young musicians are soaking up different cultures and sounds from eras, countries or idols. Let’s play around with the 90’s for instance, looking at American songwriting with bands like Garciaphone
or let’s be as explosive as English disco-pop kings like Hyphen-Hyphen or The Aerial. Talented The Bewitched Hands is rapidly compared to Canada’s Arcade Fire. Promising Colours in the Street with only two Ep’s released, compete with the best of Anglo-Saxon pop! Younger French artists are not scared at all, from early on they teach themselves and each other, taking advantage of all the techniques easily available, they listen and transform. Let’s finish on a high note, with Griefjoy who grabs machines and dares to merge different worlds, without letting go of the classic piano that they studied in French music school... PARIS GIG AGENDA / FALL 2013 SEP.25 Cocorosie @ L’Olympia, Paris SEP.30 Rudimental @ La Maroquinerie, Paris OCT. 4 Kate Nash @ La Maroquinerie, Paris OCT. 9 Juveniles @ La Maroquinerie, Paris OCT. 14 James Blake @ Le Trianon, Paris OCT. 25 Goldfrapp @ Le Trianon, Paris OCT-31-NOV.02 Paris Pitchfork Festival @Grande Halle de la Villette, Paris NOV. 07-11 Festival les Inrocks @La Cigale, Paris NOV.12 Foals @le Zenith, Paris NOV.18 The National @le Zenith, Paris NOV.20 Girls in Hawaii @ Le Trianon, Paris NOV.21 Vampire Weekend @le Zenith, Paris
Jackson and His Computer Band
Meet the Designer: Amine Bendriouich by anna barr
« Not following trends for me is anti «being a sheep». A creative duty is to create what to be followed, not to follow. » As long as fashion exists, there will always be the emerging designer, but it is rare that one doesn’t emulate their idols and exists on their own aesthetics. Bendriouich’s name has been creeping up in conversation around various fashion circles being dropped as the “next Manish Arora or Xuly Bët”. With his label AB’CB taking a foothold in the underground creative movement in both Berlin and Casablanca, it won’t be long until we start to see his designs popping up randomly around the world. One thing is for sure, and that’s being part of a bigger movement giving birth to African fashion that is here to stay. Your label is named Amine Bendriouich, Couture & Bullshit. You are Amine, couture is your sewn creations, what’s the Bullshit? The bullshit, is for two reasons; first I think it’s just a word to describe all I’m doing parallel to my design like events, art collaborations, cultural activism… The second reason is that I think the fashion industry includes a lot of bullshit to be honest, in the sense that it has more to do with marketing, communication & hype, than with creativity, talent & market realities… so the bullshit is just a satiric way to look at fashion. There is a bubble around the «Fashion Capitals» of Paris, London, Milan and New York. You run your label between Casablanca and Berlin, what’s the scene like? Any similarities between the two cities or do you like the contrast? The scene in Casablanca is very different from the one in Berlin, I don’t even know if we can call it a scene yet, compared to Berlin. There is a scene struggling to be born in Casablanca, but it still needs a lot
of elements to really exist, as we still don’t have an aware public, venues, shops, a serious interest from authorities. Media & press are looking at it as just a new communication tool, so nothing to compare to Berlin where everything is set, where the scene has a long history. The advantage is that everything is yet to be done and developed in Casablanca. That’s what creatives and activists are fighting to do, to make it exist, the road is very long, but it’s there. For myself, moving between both cities is very important, the contrast is too big, so I see myself as an ambassador of both places towards each other, that’s very inspiring and has helped me in creating some interesting projects while building bridges. We are hearing more and more about emerging art, fashion and musicians coming out of Africa, including yourself! Can you describe to us what is happening at the moment and who we should keep our eyes open for especially at AMFW pushing Africa Fashion Week forward? What’s happening now is Africans wants their part of the cake. There have always been artists and
musicians in Africa. It’s just that today everybody has internet access along with the rest of the world. We can be in Accra listening to music from Tokyo, or watching a video of the hippest party in Casablanca while in Oslo. It’s just that we Africans are realizing how using social media can make it easy to spread the word about what you do, or what you think, what’s your quotidian, so the results of that is there is more interest from the occident. They can’t keep on presenting Africa as just a tropical holiday destination, or a place where there is war & disease… so for now it’s a kind of trend, but with time people will realize that it’s here to stay, it’s not only a trend that will disappear within a year or two. We’re real, we like what we do and we do it well, so watch out! This past AMFW my highlights were Bunmi Koko and Laurence Airline. How would you describe a contemporary African now? Exactly the same as a European, with a darker skin generally, exposed more to sun, eating a lot of what Europeans call «bio», he’s very creative, very adaptable, with big survival instincts. He’s aware of all that’s happening in the world through internet,
his ideas are so fresh because of his background and culture, he dreams of a better life, more freedom, interest and recognition from the world, he loves to travel but almost all of the time needs a visa. He loves to dress, he dresses to impress, he mixes colors like nobody else, he’s fit, strong, and beautiful, he always finds a way to have the best clothes from even the brands who don’t have shops in his country. He hasn’t lost his sense of rhythm and his love for music and dance. You have a reputation for street casting models. Why do you look towards the streets and what is the response you get? I do this essentially because I like the public to see themselves while watching the show. To see what you would look like and show the possibility that it could be you on the catwalk. Even if people appreciate the models or they make them dream, they think it will never fit them the same way. So for me what’s interesting is to make a usual person look like a model. People like it as it’s quite surprising to them. Generally when I ask the people to do it I don’t get “no’s”. The people are curious and then happy once they’ve done it. You don’t follow seasons and trends. Is there something in the current approach of the buyer and consumer
that isn’t working? You know the most important thing to me before anything is to be aware of my own reality. So my reality is that I still have the freedom to not follow anything, to do what I like, and what pleases me. Also I don’t have the structure to follow trends that change every six months, so I do collections and items that I like to do, inspired from what I like without having to be in the same room as everybody, just for the sake of being a part of a system, that is anyways not made for me. The trends system is made for huge business machines, where it’s more about money than creativity, unfortunately. Even when you fight to remain creative while being part of it, you end being up eaten by the big machine, look at Christian Delacroix for example, it is sad to see such a historic house disappear just because they required a business machine, creativity to hell if it’s not bringing the required benefits. If it was just for the survival of their own, they would make it, but they have to satisfy the looters putting the money in. I think that the current approach of buyer, consumer, and production has to be revisited according to the differences of culture, geolocation, and market realities. We can’t just copy/paste the occidental model on every product in every market, if we want to benefit (even economically) from every interesting creative around the globe. Africa is Africa, Europe is Europe, Asia is Asia and so on.
Not following trends is sometimes seen as anti-establishment: true or false? Not following trends for me is anti «being a sheep». First of all, not following trends is making your own trends, establishment is killing creativity and personality, promoting conformism. A creative duty is to create what to be followed, not to follow. Following can’t be established in the name of selling more jumpers, anyway the names that stay in history are not the ones who’ve been following, but the ones who’ve been followed «even later». You once said you design clothes for legends,superheroes, and urban heroes. Who are your heroes? My legends/superheroes/urban heroes are many, famous ones and unknown ones. The common thread between them is that they all believe(d) in their own legends, in their happiness, in a better world, in a bright future, in sharing & spreading the love, changing the world with one’s faith. They’re Bob Marley, they’re Martin Luther King, Jeronimo de Dorantes, Dashrath Manjhi, Li Ching Yuen, Bruce Lee, Favio Chávez, Nicolás Gómez et l’Orchestre d’Instruments Recyclés de Cateura, 2Pac, Biggie, Mos Def, Christoph Waltz, Monty Python, J.R.R TOLKIEN, Dagny Taggart, Massive Attack, Portishead, Nusrat Fath Ali Khan, Momo & Hicham of the Boulevard
« For me a garment is yours when you decide that you like a piece, no matter if it’s made for men or women »
Amine Bendriouich Couture & Bullshit
Amine Bendriouich Couture & Bullshit
Festival Casablanca, I should stop otherwise I could go on for hours. Many of your clothes are unisex, but so many designers have a different perspective and a spectrum of unisex is emerging in clothing. What is unisex to you and is it universal? For me a garment is yours when you decide that you like a piece, no matter if it’s made for men or women, when I like it, it becomes for men for me. The opposite is true too, when my girlfriend likes a piece of mine, it becomes for women, that’s why I believe unisex is universal. It has existed since a long, long time ago, it’s just that the people didn’t give it a name at the time, there was no need to. For me it all started, when I badly wanted to have a skirt like the samurais, so when I started doing fashion, it was one of the first pieces I made for myself. Most of the clothes I do, I make them for myself first. So let’s say I don’t really do it on purpose to design unisex clothes, I think it just happens this way. What’s female or male will keep on changing as human exists. Where do you look for inspiration and what are you listening to at the moment? In everything around me, first of all, the people, their habits, behavior, the way they dress, places I go to, its nature, popular culture, all kinds of good music is very present in my universe, logic, art, more street
art than academic, typography & calligraphy. I’m also a big consumer of alternative and underground culture. What I’m listening to in this moment is mixes from Greg Wilson, Elyas Khan, Yes King, a lot of house, techno, almost everything from the label BBE, LooNope from Casablanca, along with a lot of unreleased stuff my friends are sending me. What is the most iconic look you have created in your career? I haven’t created it yet. You know I’m still at the beginning of the path, so there is still a lot to do, but I think that I have done some interesting pieces and looks, like the suited jumpsuit, or the suited dress (caftan like), the burka for everybody piece, or the half skirt half trousers «pantajupe», my sarouels are special I think, their construction is very structured and sharp. You like to bring together bodies and minds, who would you like to dress? Free minds, smart people, travelers, creatives, the ones who make a change, and of course all the ones who like what I do. Finally, what plans and projects do you have next that we can look forward to? The next collection I’m working on Birds of Ghana, which I believe will be my best work so far. I’m still
developing it and I’m very excited about the results, it’s a very personal approach and view on birds I’ve seen in Ghana while I was there last year. At the same time I’m working on an easy wear line, t-shirts, jogging pants and caps for Morocco and some Arab countries. Meanwhile, I’m looking for business partners to develop my brand with as I want to take it to the next level, give it more exposure and reach the public.
accessories to rock the fall By Charin chong & anniina m채kel채
1st Row: Aurelie Bidermann Copacabana Cuff, Golden Lane Small Metallic Duo Clutch, Jules Smith Zoe Bracelet, Derek Lam Fia Ankle Strap Sandals, Cambridge Satchel 13'' Tartan Satchel Backpack 2nd Row: Marc by Marc Jacobs East End Colorblock Madame Hilli Bag, DANNIJO Bodice iPhone 5 Case, Wouters & Hendrix Chunky Stone Necklace, Jennifer Zeuner Jewelry Split Eye Sapphire Ring, Alexander Wang Prisma Flat Pouch, Melissa Riding Boots 3rd Row: Matt Bernson Holt Cube Suede Booties, Mugler Muglerette X Doctor Bag, Giuseppe Zanotti Leather Booties with Gold Metal Heel, Iosselliani Brass Ring with Studs, 3.1 Phillip Lim Canvas 31 Hour Bag 4th Row: We Are Owls Forest Cashmere Scarf, Jules Smith Zodiac Cuff Bracelet, Tory Burch Winslow Double Wrap Bracelet, Maison Martin Margiela Bendable Ring, Wouters & Hendrix Chunky Quartz Necklace, Franco Ferrari Camouflage Scarf All images courtesy of Shopbop. Products above can be found on www.shopbop.com
Sacred Wisdom Photography: Robbert Jacobs Styling: Igor V Art Direction: Anna Barr Make-up and Hair: Cate P Model: Dasha
Dress RYNSHU Jacket ILJA
Turtle Neck VANESSA MORAN Blazer & Skirt GLENN MARTENS
Dress ALINE OCHOA Bracelets TAMARA AKCAY
Dress ILJA Shoes RHEA BENSON
.Dress RYNSHU Hat LAURENCE BOSSION
Dress ALEXIS REYNA Scarf MARC ANDERSEN Vest PEACHOO + KREJBERG Shoes HEXA BY KUHO
Dress Glenn Martens Sweater Kristofer Kongshaug Bespoke Glove by UniquE
Dress Avelon Shoes Rhea Benson Corset stylistâ€™s own
Photo: Sendu Bala / Vita Gottlieb AW13
Vita Gottlieb: I think women are pretty free in fashion, both in terms of what they are allowed and allow themselves to wear, compared to the early 60s and earlier, and indeed throughout history in Western fashion. But there are still a lot of cultures where women are restricted by what their society allows them to wear. Many women are also prevalent and powerful in the fashion industry and in this way, are well represented in this field. It is still mostly men who control the stakes in the biggest luxury conglomerates, and therefore own many of the designer brands – but the representation of women in fashion is favourable compared to many other industries.
What role does feminism play in the fashion industry and do you believe it is changing? Fyodor Golan: We are living in the time of Women. I think because of this reason we have moved on from couture. One of the reasons couture existed was to show off the wealth of your husband, today women are standing on their own. Today, more than ever women own their style. They have the “balls” to influence and do things. If you look into the world of fashion today, there are barely any men left. The results are both good and bad. Fashion became very contemporary and more suited for everyday life, but there is just too much sameness. Today it’s more about brand survival and sales. I think it’s great when there was a contrast between men and women - two different poles, arguments and ideas, which helped the progress. Now it’s more one-sided. Women want to be more comfortable. I think there are more opinions but fewer personalities. I think high power women in the industry should consult the likes of Catroux and Loulou for Yves or Carine Roitfeld for Tom Ford then fashion truly shines. A great example today would be collaboration between Marc Jacobs and Katie Grant. I don’t believe that fashion should belong to one sex - it’s unisex.
Lie Sang Bong: I have a great example - we have the first ever female president in Korea’s history and I believe this will have significant influence on women’s social status in society. People are curious about not only how the president runs the country but also what she is wearing. The design and colors of her clothes, bags, and accessories will possibly bring back the 80-90’s feminism movement in Korea, while highlighting the media such as TV and newspapers. The media will talk about her fashion throughout her presidency. With the new social and political movements which will result in a dramatic change in Korean society, I have hopes that it will also lead to a revolutionary development of the fashion industry.
Fimpster Revolution By Porschia Thomas
An in-depth look at the fourth-wave of feminism. Brothels, crime scenes and ladylike brogues, this fall is oozing with feminine contradictions from the red mouth stained mistresses at Louis Vuitton to the stately dishevelled ladies at Prada. There is something for the mistress and wife. Have women ended up where we started a century ago as the objects of men? With sexually explicit women like Azealia Banks, Rhianna, Iggy Azalea and Lana Del Rey being welcomed into the fashion world with open arms one has to wonder why owning the word slut doesn’t seem to shock as much as calling yourself a feminist. We are just redefining what both of the two words mean, but what they share in common are aptitudes of women that are empowered by making their own personal choices. There is a celebration of sexual promiscuity that is unique to this fourth-wave of feminism. Beginning in the late 2000s this stream of feminism focuses on acceptance of all types of females and particularly the choices that these females are making. The stigma associated with promiscuity is no longer there. We watched Lena Dunham shamelessly bed a new suitor in every episode of Girls, Kim Kardashian become
pregnant for Kayne West while still legally married to Kris Humphries and Azealia Banks pose for a cover of Dazed & Confused magazine with an inflated condom protruding from her mouth like an flaccid banana, the fourth-wave encouraged us to not only accept this behaviour but consider it to be today’s feminism. Why can’t they be feminine, sexy and feminists? While the second and third waves sought to banish female stereotypes by addressing issues of inequality, gender roles in the workplace and education, the fourth-wave is about social inclusiveness, the creating of a dialogue and sexual freedom. Termed Cyberfeminism, feminism has gone viral and the web is the space for conversation. Where groups like DIY-zine darlings Riot Grrrl and icons like Peaches, Tracy Chapman, Queen Latifah and Indigo Girls used to play a vital role in feminism, now stands a variety of bloggers and websites whose primary goal is to open dialogue about the issues. XO Jane, Read Bust, Man Repeller and female based social media sites like Pinterest are the new weapons of empowerment. With the internet now being a key feature in marketing and advertising, cyber interaction with brands is the driving force behind product development. Perhaps the largest contribution that the internet has made to feminism is the avenue it has opened for at home employment. The flexible work hours and domestic location has revolutionized parenting allowing women to be more involved in entrepreneurship. Self publishing of everything from written publications to albums through sites like "Eden", Photo by Martyna Włodarczyk, Model Maja Pankiewicz
« Have women ended up where we started a century ago as the objects of men? »
« It is the birth of the “fimpster”, the faux feminist that uses feminism to cloak questionable decision making. The key is to appear profound, no actual substance necessary. » SoundCloud has opened up the arena so every single voice can be heard. While all inclusiveness is good in theory, today’s feminism is saturated with so many individual opinions that the fourth-wave is the least organized strain of feminism to date. While researching this article I found 7 different types of postcolonial Islamic feminism alone. With all the noise it is hard to hear what is actually being said. But one topic that can be heard loud and clear is sex. Flimsy issues like the choice to dress provocatively and sleep around indiscriminately with no judgement are just a couple of the important topics at hand. A lot of the assertions of fourth-wave feminism actually counteract the progression of the feminist movements of the past. Third-waver Queen Latifah’s “Unity”, an anthem stating “don’t call me a bitch”, is now replaced by “Pu$$y” by Iggy Azalea, a song dedicated to the extracurricular activities of her vagina. In the reach for attention and shock value the words bitch, slut and hoe are gladly accepted as positive affirmations of one’s female sexuality. This is not to say that artists like this didn’t exist in the third wave, most notably Lil’ Kim, but no one considered Lil’ Kim’s “How Many Licks” to be a stand against female stereotypes. Slutty is the new intellectual. One of the pitfalls of feminism going viral is a new breed of faux depth that anyone with a computer and the ability to copy and paste an intelligent sounding quotation can achieve. It is the birth of the “fimpster”, the faux feminist that uses feminism to cloak questionable decision making. The key is to appear profound, no actual substance necessary. A shining beckon of hope for the fourth-wave is Lean In by Sheryl Sandberg, the latest in feminist text and the whispered Feminine Mystique of our time. The book addresses why females are still not reaching leadership roles despite higher levels of education. Where second-wavers offered a collective solution to the problem encouraging deep structural and political changes, Sandberg suggests women individually take it upon themselves to lean in and get more involved at work. The solution is still individualistic but at least there is a collective plan of action that gets us off our computers. New Girl, Awkward Black Girl and other fun, intelligent and racially differing characters also shed a positive light. But opposite to the girls of Girls, these characters are practically asexual beings displaying their femininity and sexuality with the same girlish shyness usually reserved for the moments leading up to losing one’s virginity. There is simply no in between and the virgin/whore dynamic is still alive and well, however now the whore has picked up a book, or at least Instagrammed a photo of herself holding one. Middle ground is scarce, but clutching my pearls I can only hope that the fourth-wave will continue to gain momentum in organization and depth because I doubt this is what Betty Friedan, the mother of feminism, had in mind.
Lostin Love Photography: Lucilla Bellini Assistants: Giulia Basile, Filippo Bertola Styling: Natasa Filimonovic Make-up and Hair: Sabina Pinsone Models: Valentina Pegorer, Elia Malvestio Shot in Pia Casa di Lavoro Montedomini, Firenze. Our gratitude to A Rebours Vintage Store, Firenze and Marty Shop, Prato for the ir garments.
Dress & Gloves MARTIN MARGIELA Shoes ACNE
Blouse, Trousers & Shoes ACNE
Blouse ACNE Lace Skirt VINTAGE
Vest COMME DES GARCONS Trousers & Shoes ACNE
Shirt, Coat & Trousers VINTAGE
LaceDress VINTAGE Shoes ACNE Headpiece by NATASA FILIMONOVIC
Shoes VINTAGE Vest and Trousers 19th Century VINTAGE
Hoodie Martin Margiela Headpiece by NATASA FILIMONOVIC
Lace Dress VINTAGE Headpiece by NATASA FILIMONOVIC
Lace Dress VINTAGE Suit VINTAGE Feather Cape and Skulls by NATASA FILIMONOVIC
Lace Dress VINTAGE Shoes VINTAGE Vest and Trousers 19th Century VINTAGE
Editor’s Picks for Fall HUMUS: Base notes : russian blue pine, vetyver Middle notes : white mushroom, rockery, oak moss Top notes : violet AMBRE (Amber): Base notes : amber, ginger, gaïac wood, patchouli, labdanum Middle notes : tonka bean, vanilla flower, white cistus, rose, iris Top notes : orange, mandarin, grapefruit CUIR DE RUSSIE (Russian Leather): Base notes : Cuir, Ambre, Fève Tonka, Styrax Middle notes : lavender, neroli, iris, white musk Top notes : bergamot, lavender, citrus, lemon, nutmeg
Fall Scents: Discovering Mad et Len by Anna Barr Looking for an alluring fragrance for fall? We have fallen head over heels for Mad et Len since first discovering them two years ago. Mad et Len is a reference to Proust’s Remembrance of Things Past (Madeleine). Now only five years old and based in Saint Julien de Verdon near Grasse, word of mouth is spreading about them reviving the art of the traditional, French apothecary perfume makers. Their designs take inspiration from the turn-of-the-century French pharmacies which matches their approach to formulate and produce in various and unusual ways to fragrance bodies and interiors. Mad et Len is about as far away from mass consumerism you can get. Each perfume is created in their own atelier and formulated by their own biologist using raw materials. Their scents come in perfume, oil, and candles that are hand poured using soya wax. Additionally, each fragrance is artisanal, Mad et Len designs and produces on demand in limited editions. While the fragrance and packaging were our first draw, we were pleased to find out that all products are paraben, silicon, and preservative free, as well as not tested on animals. For fall olfactory, our nose was attracted to the following notes to set the mood and welcome autumn with: Humus, Ambre, and Cuir de Russie.
rebel of the night This fall's most fascinating looks play with a mix of metallics and vibrant jewel tones.
Photography: Robbert Jacobs Art Direction: Anniina M채kel채 Charin Chong Make-up: Cate P Hair: Chiao Shen Model: Sabine
dUSTY GOLD Dusty gold eye shadow and powdery white eyeliner balance metallic cognac on the lips. 40
Vibrant Jewel Tones Vibrant blues and reds give an impression of exaggerated eyes.
Streak of Gold Dark teal covers the lids with golden eyeliner for a dramatic evening look.
Pop of Red To balance the intense, bronze smoky eye lips are painted with vivid matte red lipstick.
seven beauty essentials for fall by Charin Chong Illustrations by Anna Blachut Here's a look at Eclectic's picks from the new fall 2013 beauty collections to keep an eye out for.
Clockwise from top right: Mystic Metallics "Charm" Addict Gloss by Dior, So Supreme "Candy Apple, Pleasurefruit & Sweet Grenadine" Sheen Supreme Lipstick by MAC, Cream Blush "Revelation" by Chanel, Mystic Metallics "Bonne Etoile" 5 Color Eyeshadow Palette by Dior, Volume Effet Faux Cils "Shocking" Mascara by YSL, Pure Radiant Tinted Moisturizer SPF +30 by Nar, "For the Twill of It" Polishes by Essie
Real colors my vary from illustrations.
Photo by Will Whipple, Make-up by Dani Guinsberg
Skincare: keep your summer glow into fall by dani guinsberg 46
Whether it’s golden highlights, boldly bronzed or a delicate sheen, skin was a-glow on the Fall/Winter 2013 catwalks. Taking summer skin into the fall isn’t difficult, as make-up artist, Dani Guinsberg, Founder and Director of The Session School, reveals. While eyes and lips undoubtedly took centre stage one the F/W 2013 runway, what tied it all together was gorgeous, post-summer skin. From a halo of gold at Burberry Prorsum that simply said “post-summer holiday glow” and a hint of “Studio 54” bronziness at Donna Karan, teamed with dark, smoky eyes and sculpted cheekbones to a healthy, catch-the-light complexion at Victoria Beckham, you can ease your way into fall without swapping sun-kissed for pale. Do Your Prep I’m a great believer in prepping skin. It may take an extra few minutes, but the proof of the pudding is in the eating! Skin that is well-prepped always looks 10 times better than skin that hasn’t. Start by cleansing skin thoroughly with a gentle but effective all-round cleansing water – my favorite is Bioderma Sensibio H20, £14.49 - definitely a cult favorite amongst make-up artists and models. Cleansing not only rids skin of excess oil and make-up residue, but it balances the skin’s pH, essential for a healthy complexion. If you want to “go with the glow”, this skincare step is a must. Make Some Refinements If you still have a hint of tan, be it faux or real, using a gentle exfoliator will keep skin looking brighter, more even-toned and enhance your natural glow. One of my favourite exfoliators is Sophyto Dual Action Exfoliating Treatment, £19.50, which contains amethyst powder, Barbados cherry and pineapple enzymes, all of which combine to refine skin without needing of abrasive scrubs. Apply it to cleansed skin, remove and then moisturise. It creates the perfect even surface for make-up application.
All About Oil Treat après-summer skin to some real TLC and invest in facial oil. Brilliant for maintaining a tan and for ensuring skin is super-hydrated, all you need is a few drops. Massage into skin before you apply moisturiser to enhance bronzed skin. My absolute favourite is Liz Earle’s Superskin Concentrate, from £20. Just a few drops lightly pressed into the skin preps skin for moisturiser and make-up.
Prime Time Using a tinted primer under your base will ensure skin looks fresh and retains a glow all year round. I love Givenchy’s Acti’mine Wake-Up Skin Make-Up Base, £25.00, which comes in a variety of shades that can perk-up sallow skin or play down redness, depending on what you need. Or try Revlon PhotoReady Face Perfecting Primer, £11.99, which can be worn instead of foundation, if you want a very natural, bare-faced effect. Blend primer carefully, paying particular attention to your nose, chin and forehead.
Swap Your BB for a CC Now that summer’s over, boost hydration and even out skin tone with a CC Cream. CCs are formulated with colour-adapting pigments that work smartly to combat uneven pigmentation which can be an issue when you’ve been in the sun, no matter how careful you’ve been with your SPF. If skin needs the double-whammy of brightening and anti-aging ingredients, skin guru Ole Henriksen’s Perfect Truth CC Cream, £29, tackles both with Vitamin C (it smells deliciously orangey!) to perk-up dull skin and antioxidants, including ferulic acid, to repair and rejuvenate.
the new smoky eye by dani guinsberg If there’s one look that is always on trend, it’s a smoky eye. This season, cast aside the usual matt grey and black and invest instead in gorgeous burnished copper and chestnut brown, metallic raisin, shimmery cranberry and gunmetal. At Bottega Veneta, eyes were smudged with earthy brown, at Louis Vuitton, sheeny charcoal stole the show and at Gucci, eyes got a Glam Rock make-over with smoky berry shades. Here’s how to rock the new smoky eye.
Prep skin with a primer to ensure that your base lasts longer and to create the perfect surface for foundation application. A brilliant all-rounder, Bella Pierre Make-Up Primer, £45, softens fine lines, enlarged pores and excess oil, allowing base to glide on easily. Follow with a fluid, demi-matte base to even out and correct skin tone, then address blemishes with concealer. The overall look you’re going for is a neutral, flawless-looking skin, not too matte and not overly shiny. The eyes are the focus so keep the rest of the face simple and beautiful.
Start by lining the eyes, top and bottom with a soft brown or raisin eye pencil. I love Clarins Eyeliner Pencil, £13.60, in Brown or Stila Kajal Eye Liner, £12, in Tigers Eye. Smudge the pencil with a cotton bud or soft blending brush.
With an eye shadow brush, start by applying shadow to the lid, blending it up to the brow bone, into the inner corner and under the lower lashes. Build up colour gradually. I love Bella Pierre Mineral Eyeshadow, from £12.99, in Jadoo, a gorgeous shimmery cranberry and Diligence, a deep metallic raisin brown. The Mineral Eyeshadow blends amazingly and gives an almost wet-look sheen. Curl lashes, and then apply two coats of black mascara for impact.
On the catwalk at Gucci, the eyebrows were bleached out. Recreate the look by leaving foundation on brows, brushing it through and then follow with an eyebrow gel in a shade that’s lighter than your natural brow tone. Try MAC Brow Set, £12.50, in Girl Boy, which will lighten medium to dark brows.
Like brows, lips are knocked back and out-of-focus with a hint of a sheen. Start by applying heaps of lip balm. One of my favourites is Moa The Green Balm, £9.99, a multi-purpose balm with soothing yarrow which also exfoliates lips as well as moisturising. Finish by dabbing the centre of the lips with a tiny amount of clear lip gloss.
« Be it work or social, women should feel comfortable and confident from door to door, not only once they've removed their coat. »
What inspired you to create your own label? The idea of building something from nothing, and the idea that I never felt my dream job existed so I’d have to create it myself. As long as I can remember it’s been about fashion design - but in a really vague way. Before high school, I remember reading a Vogue profile on Zac Posen when he was first starting, and so young. It inspired at once a sense that anything is possible and a sense of urgency, like I was already behind. Can you share with us the concept behind Starkweather? Growing up in Chicago, the winters are a sea of black puffy coats and Ugg boots. I was part of that club for one winter! And I became really frustrated that these were the only options really available: function without any aesthetic refinement. I’ve always been passionate about outerwear, so it has become my endeavor to make outerwear that would be as effective in any weather as the tech-y brands that currently cross into ready-to-wear environments. Your jacket or coat shouldn’t cover up the outfit underneath, it should work with it and augment it. Especially when the occasion calls for refined style, be it work or social, women should feel comfortable and confident from door to door, not only once they’ve removed their coat. What kind of materials, textures and colors do you like working with? Mostly I draw from nature for colors and textures. Nothing too artificial. So it all seems to work together even over a span of seasons. Neutrals are my favorite colors - but what I consider neutral is pretty lenient. I believe in “blending, not matching” so even a mixture of prints can neutralize themselves when combined together.
inside the atelier: staying warm in starkweather by charin chong As another fall comes our way, we trade in our sundresses and tanktops for coats and scarves. As fashion goes, designers generally offer collections that include a series of outerwear options, but not many designers focus solely on the subject. Eclectic takes you into the Parisian atelier of Chicago-born designer Lee Anderson, the creator of outerwear brand, Starkweather to take a closer look at her brand's collection for this fall and her inspirations.
« In my mind, (outerwear) has two primary but contradictory purposes; it's a fundamental function of protection against the elements, and a sartorial function to elevate and polish a look. »
If a color palette is mostly tone on tone, the textures are really important whether it’s a special kind of fabric combination or weave, a dimensional jacquard, or a print. Texture can be 2D or 3D, and I think it’s most effective as a mix of the two. Along with my love for outerwear, I love winter coatings. You’ll also always find leather, chiffon, maybe some lace or velvet...I’ve begun working with fur as well which inspires me more and more as I see the possibilities. At the moment, not many brands in the industry focus solely on outerwear. What do you hope for in the future of outerwear in fashion? There are endless possibilities with outerwear - and it demands so much attention as an object of design. In my mind it has two primary but contradictory purposes: it's fundamental function of protection against the elements, and a sartorial function to elevate and polish a look. Making those two work together is the challenge of the outerwear sector. This will mean the development of new, smarter, luxury textiles, an increased understanding of effective layering, and for women to make choices taking back control of the way they dress no matter the weather. Further down the line, I like the idea that fashion designers and engineers might work closely, on new textiles and new construction methods, so that the aesthetic and functional design concerns become intrinsic across all fashion sectors. Layering and mixing textures are a very prominent aspect to your collections. What drew you to explore these themes? Layering is such an important part of our active lifestyles. During transitional seasons, especially. When done right, it’s amazing how much less you notice the weather - because you’re comfortable. With the removable liners, the varied weights in coating fabrics, and the Crux, you have the necessary elements from the functional perspective. From the aesthetic perspective, I get to tap into the fantastical side of things, especially with the Crux. When there is no formula, there are no rules. It’s like each one has a mind of it’s own. Putting those pieces together, I’m always thinking in 360 degrees about composition and silhouette. The design process is about problem solving. With outerwear, the solution lies in shape, proportions and texture.
A sneak peek at the details for Starkweather's upcoming SS2014 collection
What are some sources of inspiration to you? I’m addicted to Magnum Photos, a cooperative including photographers like Thomas Dworzak, Bruno Barbey and Elliott Erwitt. In particular I love images of people in rural settings because their garments are all about function and still manage to have aesthetic interest, representing their cultural identity. A big fan of movies, I’ll do a series around one actor or director, most recently Stanley Kubrick, so that seeing their evolution is part of the experience. When in doubt: Westerns, Sci-Fi, and Sports movies. Share with us your favorite 3 places in Paris. The café Le Carillon that is just up the street from the Canal Saint Martin. The Jeu de Paume for their amazing photography exhibits. And lastly, le Grand Palais. What sort of music are you addicted to at the moment? Always Johnny Cash and always anything Motown. A more contemporary addiction: I really love Alt-J and Astronautalis. Who would you like to see wearing your garments? The most rewarding is when I see women from Chicago wearing the garments. They were the original inspiration, so it’s like it comes full circle. What can we look forward to in the future from Starkweather? Another category that I’ve wanted to pursue is Skiwear, and to do both urban and skiwear for men in addition to the women’s collection. And a major long term pursuit for Starkweather is take on the extreme environment of Space where commercial travel is set to take us in some kind of near future. Just waiting for a call form Elon Musk.
To discover the full fall 2013 collection, visit www.starkweather.fr
Designer Lee Anderson
new shop alert: Leon & Harper say hello! By Charin chong photos by anniina mäkelä
Eclectic’s picks for fall
One of the newest boutiques that has popped up on our radar in Paris is Leon & Harper, a young and stylish brand nestled on the bobochic Boulevard Beaumarchais in the 3rd arrondissement. You’ll be sure to spot the concept store by the lyrics on their storefront, lovingly borrowed from The Doors, « Hello, I Love You, Can You Tell Me Your Name ». The brand is the brainchild of Philippe Corbin, a veteran designer of 25 years over at French label Et Vous. He was inspired by art, music, design and travelling in creating his own label to reinterpret the timeless classics of a woman’s wardrobe. His collections play with the ideas of masculine and feminine dress codes, and you’ll find everything from chino trousers to leather biker jackets, colorful shirts and exquisite printed knitwear - all with high quality textiles. Corbin’s objective is to create a unique identity with his brand and to attract his clientele through his modern and elegant stype. The spacious boutique which opened earlier in May, welcomes you in with their whimsical decor to match the quirky and vibrant Fall collection. Vintages pieces, books and artwork are displayed against stone brick walls and serve to highlight the brand’s personality. According to Corbin, « Leon & Harper offers a pop and enlighted fashion for girls who do not break the rules, but twist the codes. These girls play but never cheat ». Some of our favorite pieces were definitely the gorgeous, snug knitted sweaters and cardigans with a navajo pattern vibe, but you can also expect to find leather boots, bags, clutches, and playful printed t-shirts. Leon & Harper is a must visit for those looking for originality and quality with a touch of bohemian/rock chic thrown in for good measure.
LEON & HARPER 95 BOULEVARD BEAUMARCHAIS 75003 PARIS, FRANCE www.leonandharper.com
ÂŤ Leon & Harper offers a pop and enlighted fashion for girls who do not break the rules, but twist the codes. These girls play but never cheat Âť. - Philippe Corbin
Weekend destinations: Florence in fall By LUcilla bellini
Photos by Lucilla Bellini
Florentine Photographer Lucilla Bellini celebrates the arrival of fall in Florence, here she shares the best parts of the birthplace of the Renaissance. Why go in Fall: The trees lined avenues of the city are colored with a bright yellow, a sight not to be missed especially along the Viale dei Colli, the beautiful road leading to Piazzale Michelangelo, one of the viewpoints from which you can see all the city from. The air is fresh and fizzy in the fall, making it the best time to walk around and go sightseeing in Florence. If you are a movie lover, in October, you can take advantage of the 50 Days of International Cinema in Florence, 50 days of uninterrupted retrospective screenings, premieres, festivals, original movie sounds, documentaries and video art.
Where to visit: The bar at the Oblate library, which is located behind the Duomo, you can have a coffee in a little relaxing corner observing the roofs of the city. Happy hour offers sometimes small jazz concerts. Biblioteca delle Oblate Via dell’Oriuolo, 26 See and photograph the Tepidarium of Giacomo Roster in the garden of Orticultura, a beautiful greenhouse from late nineteenth century that is very romantic! This space is famous for having hosted the beautiful installation of Vanessa Beecroft, VB 53. Giardino dell’Orticultura Via Vittorio Emanuele II, 4 – Via Bolognese, 17
For contemporary art, you have to go to Forte Belvedere (before October 13) where you can find the sculptures of Chinese artist Zhang Huan. Do not miss it, because this wonderful place, made in 1595, is not open often. Via di San Leonardo, 1 A little known museum that deserves to be visited for its beautiful decorations and antique furnishings is Casa Martelli. Via Ferdinando Zannetti, 8 For an atmosphere in line with Games of Thrones, do not miss the Stibbert museum which houses a vast collection of medieval armor. Also, the park that surrounds it is a place to visit because it is full of esoteric symbolism and mysterious corners. Via Federigo Stibbert, 26
WHere to Stay: For a stay in perfect Florentine style, there is the Hotel di Torre Guelfa, as well as having nicely furnished rooms, it offers the opportunity to climb the tower and enjoy a splendid view over the rooftops of Florence just a few steps from the Duomo and Ponte Vecchio. Borgo Santi Apostoli, 8 For a romantic intimate weekend, the right place is a small Airbnb apartment overlooking the Ponte Vecchio. Maggie, the owner, will give a friendly welcome into her beautiful home! Look up Romantico Appartamento, Ponte Vecch on www.airbnb.com
Where to grab a bite: For breakfast or a buffet lunch cooked by celebrity chef Fabio Picchi, in an elegant converted old theater, and very Florentine, the ideal space is the Teatro del Sale. The evening offers a buffet dinner followed by a very interesting and high quality concert or play. Via dè Macci, 118 For an apéritif, the young and cool place is Volume in Piazza Santo Spirito. An old carpentry that has been converted into a bar, it's full of objects made of wood and decorated in an original and fashionable way. Piazza Santo Spirito 5r If you have something romantic in mind with a breathtaking view of the river, there is nothing better than to go to the sixth floor of Hotel Westin Excelsior or the lounge bar, La Terrazza in Hotel Continentale. Westin Excelsior, Piazza Ognissanti, 3; La Terrazza Vicolo dell’Oro, 6r For Italian pizza lovers or for a delicious Italian spaghetti, a must in Florence is the friendly and noisy restaurant Il Pizzaiuolo, afterwards have a cocktail at the adjacent square, a meeting place for many Florentines. Via dè Macci, 113
What Bring back home: Before leaving, you absolutely need to put in your suitcase a lotion or pot pourri to bring home the scent of your trip from the ancient Officina Profumo Santa Maria Novella. This shop is a gem to visit and a good place to buy antique compounds and remedies produced with care for 400 years and now known all over the world. Via della Scala, 16
Photos courtesy of Thank You, My Deer
thank you, my deer! inside paris' newest glutenfree cafe By charin chong Thank You, My Deer is the latest glutenfree eatery to open in Paris, a trend that seems to be on the up and up as people become more attentive and selective of their diet. We speak to founders, Jana Bukovinova and Sona Konuchova to discuss their passion, journey and insight into a new wave of entrepreneurism. What made you decide to open a gluten-free café? Jana: Before when I was looking for a job, the offers in the market were not very appealing. That was also the time I stopped eating gluten. I had an idea that one day I'd like to open my own place, since we both have had experience working in bars and restaurants here in Paris. The idea developed very naturally, and one important aspect was offering good coffee and not just gluten-free food. Although at first it seemed impossible, the fact that Sona was also enthusiastic helped and we were able to achieve it. Sona: One of the main elements of our decision was that we wanted to have something on our own, but the most difficult question was the concept. There are so many cafés and tea shops in Paris; it's really difficult to differentiate yourself. When Jana
stopped eating gluten, we realized that there were not many gluten-free choices in Paris and you could only find ready-made or industrialized foods. There were only 2 places in Paris offering freshly cooked gluten-free foods, so that's how we got the idea for a gluten-free café. what are some of the customer favorites from your café? Jana: Our customers really like our fresh fig, cream cheese, prosciutto and arugula sandwich and another hit is our grilled beetroot, caramelized red onions, warm goat cheese and arugula sandwich. All our sandwiches are made with homemade gluten-free bread. For cakes and other sweets, our customers enjoy our caramelized banana bread, Bisous (chocolate cookies with different nuts or berries), chocolate & beetroot muffins, coffee cake, Wimbledon cookies with cream and strawberry, Slovak brownies with fermented milk, cheesecake and tiramisu made with our gluten-free biscotti. Tell us a little more about the coffee you serve. Jana: Our coffee is from Café Coutume, a specialized coffee roaster in Paris that picks the coffee beans themselves from different countries. They go to the coffee farms with the nicest coffee
« We realized that there were not many gluten-free choices in Paris and you could only find ready-made or industrialized foods. » beans and then import them back to France to roast and brew in Paris, which is quite a new way to bring coffee to Paris. When we discovered the world of specialized coffee, we knew that we could never go back. Of course, we had to understand coffee as a real science. There was a lot of learning, but it was an exciting process and I'm glad that we chose to do it. You funded a part of your project through kisskissbankbank. How did you come about to using crowd-funding and how was the experience? Jana: When I first had this idea, I thought it was impossible due to the amount of money we needed, especially with the initial investment costs to set
up a new place. We had some money together and managed to get a bank loan, but it was still not quite enough. I knew about Kickstarter and had some friends who supported projects through their contributions and we also had a friend who successfully funded his project through crowd-funding, so we decided to try it. It became quite a success and I think there's a new wave of methods to finance projects, not just through crowd-funding but private investment, associations and something other than banks. People are starting to talk more about that now. You guys have a very creative method of free marketing and advertising, please tell us more about how you came up with that. Sona: First of all we had no budget, which makes you more creative! We really tried to utilize social media like Facebook which is one of our key marketing tools, and we started to publish a lot of pictures and stories even before opening. Also, thanks to the crowd-funding community, we could invite them along on our journey, so that was a great way of marketing. Now we use social media to talk about the café, what we're making, events, news and promotions and that's when the bike idea came along. Jana: Our friend has a bike workshop and brought over this old bike, so we made this sign with "Thank You, My Deer, gluten-free café" and our address. We
moved and parked it around in the neighborhood and a good spot was always near metro stations. We got quite a few customers who came from seeing our bike ad! A few of them are now regulars who come 2/3 times a week and that's all thanks to the bike. To make it more interesting, we're now moving the bike around and telling people on Facebook that whoever finds the bike gets a free muffin. What can we look forward to in the Fall from your home-made menu? Jana: We always try to buy seasonal products fresh from the market, so we try new ingredients as much as we can. For example, in summer we had rhubarb, so we made rhubarb cake. Our menu depends on the market. Hopefully, we will have more kale in September for salads, pestos and sandwiches. Then some cakes with zucchini and beetroot, one of our specialties. We'd also like to make soups when the weather starts getting colder. Sona: We actually spend a lot of time thinking of new ideas for our menus. It's the topic of all our evening discussions, and in our free time we research new recipes. We also plan to ask our followers on Facebook for their suggestions on what we can add to the menu. What other events or ideas can we expect from Thank You, My Deer? Jana: We’d like to provide more courses at the café. We'll be starting with a Serigraphy course and
a change to the French economy and mindset because sometimes they can be too conservative. For example, the notion that anyone who opens a place must have a specific degree...but you don't necessarily have to have the documents to have a good idea, or to make delicious food. Sona: I read an article recently which said "Looking for a job? Create one”. The employment market is so saturated and with more unemployment, getting the dream job is almost impossible. Nowadays creating your own job is becoming a trend. Sometimes people can be averse to change and think that you need to have a contract job. What are your hopes in the future for "Thank You, My Deer"?
maybe more DIY or art courses with Good Morning Creativity. Perhaps a platform for brainstorming or even speed-dating once a month. On Kiss Kiss Bank Bank, one of the rewards for contributors is our muffins that are named after the people who donated money to our project. I'd also love to have a "Polaroid Wall" with photos of all our regular customers. Sona: Since the café is very intimate, we want to make a connection with the people who come and we hope to have a lot of regulars. We have people who come so often that we feel like we know their lives and it feels really good to know that they like our food and we love getting to know them. What are your thoughts on the trend of new, unique eateries opening in Paris? Sona: When you say Paris, everyone thinks about French cuisine being the best, or baguette and croissants, but there's actually a lack of diversity here. It's only after you meet people in the industry
Founders Jana Bukovinova and Sona Konuchova
that you realize there's still so many opportunities, especially for people coming from different countries and backgrounds. For example, there's a new coffee movement here now and gluten-free eateries are still very new. Vegetarian eateries are an important new trend as well as eating healthy. People are more conscious of what they eat and choose to eat fresh and organic foods. France is also a country with good quality products which is not the case in many other countries. Jana: We are lucky in Paris because there are many fresh markets with good products. My advice is for opening a new place in Paris, if you're offering French food then it has to be really good. If not, then it has to be something different that brings something unique to the food scene. Now, a few 'cool' neighborhoods offer diversity like in the Marais or at the Canal St Martin. My hope is that one day you can find unique food in any part of Paris that doesn't only offer a traditional French menu. More foreigners are opening eateries and most of them happen to be women. This can help bring
Sona: That people will continue to like our food. It's the best feeling ever when people tell us that this was the best gluten-free bread they've had, or this is the first tiramisu that I've had in my life because they've never been able to have tiramisu. This motivates us and I hope that we can have more positive responses from our clients and that they'll spread the news about us. Also, that café will be financially stable so we can enjoy running the café instead of worrying about overhead costs. Jana: I agree with Sona, and I also wish that more people will come to this neighborhood for food, since there are not many places to eat on this street right now. I really hope more will develop so we can continue attracting clients during the day and that they will always want to come back.
Thank you, my deer 112 rue Saint Maur 75011 Paris, France www.thankyoumydeer.com
eclectic eats in london
By Anna Barr London now ranks with Tokyo, Paris and New York for some of the best eats in the world. Over the past few years, there's a new gastro-pub popping up every few weeks, this is becoming the mainstream norm and some of us are up for something a bit more eclectic for our dining palette. We checked out two of the hottest new restaurants this fall in London.
Chotto Mtte Sushi Plate
Look no further than Galeto, the newest restaurant to pop up on Soho’s Dean Street. With walls spray painted by Brazilian street artist Milo Tchais, known as the ‘Brazilian Banksy’, reflect the South American nature of the Brazlian street food concept at Galeto, which is bringing ‘streatery’ to London evoking the atmosphere of the Rio Favelas. Some of the culinary delights include Molhos dips including tropical barbeque, hot spicy coriander, and garlic cream. Sides range from black beans and white rice to sweet pepper salsa, mandioca frita, and vivide Latino salads. Opening up their doors during London Fashion Week is Chotto Matte, bringing the energy of underground Tokyo to the streets of Soho, on the corner of Bateman and Frith. Chotto Matte is more than its colorful cocktails and live music, it merges the best of Japanese and Peruvian cultures serving up high-quality Nikkei cuisine. For the September launch Houxo Que, Tokyo based painter and graffiti artist will be in residence working on largescale bespoke graphics that will adorn multiple walls within the restaurant for eclectic flair.
Galeto 33 Dean Street, London, W1D 4PW
Chotto Mtte Baby Chicken
Chotto Matte 11-13 Frith Street, London, W1D 4RB
bake it yourself: pear cupcakes to sweeten up the fall recipe courtesy of alisa morov illustrations by iveta karpathyova What do you do if your sweet tooth starts aching in fall? Well, these elegant little pear cupcakes are sure to satisfy. Lovely to look at and delicious to taste, this recipe is from the cookbook, "Sensational Cupcakes" by cook and author, Alisa Morov, published by Simon & Schuster. Alisa Morov's site: www.sweet-pea-paris.com
Pear Cupcakes Preheat oven 170°C (350°F) Clean and cut pears into 2cm cubes, leaving the skin, and discarding the core. Place 2 to 3 cubes in each place of a moulds for 12 cupcakes, prepared with cupcake paper liners, reserving the rest for later. Mix flour, cinnamon, baking powder, and salt together, and set aside. In bowl of a mixer, with paddle attachment, beat butter and sugar together until light and fluffy. Scrape down the sides, add the eggs and beat well for about 1 minute. Add the dry ingredients, mix slowly until combined, do not over mix. Spoon 1 1/2 tablespoons of batter into each cup, on top of the pear cubes. Dividing remaining pear cubes evenly, gently push them into the batter. Bake 40 – 50 minutes until cake tester comes out clean. Let cool completely before frosting. While the cupcakes bake, prepare the pear slices.
Oven Dried Pear Slices
Vanilla Buttercream Frosting
Reduce heat of oven to 90째C (200째F)
In a mixer with a paddle attachment, place butter and half the sugar in a large mixing bowl, mix for 30 seconds, then add the cream and vanilla.
Line a baking sheet with parchment. Wash the pears. Slice the pears as thin as possible, retaining the seeds and stem. Squeeze lemon juice over the pear slices. Mix sugar and water in a sauce pan, bring to a boil , occasionally stirring, until sugar has dissolved. Reduce the heat to low, and add the pear slices. Cook for 2 to 3 minutes. Gently remove the pears and place them on the baking sheet. Bake for 1 to 2 hours, until they feel dry, gently turn them over and bake for 10 to 15 more minutes. Let cool completely before nestling into the buttercream. Frost with Vanilla Buttercream Frosting, piped on with medium round piping nozzle. Makes 12 large cupcakes.
Mix on medium speed until smooth and creamy, about 4 minutes. Gradually add the rest of the sugar, one cup at a time, beating very well after each addition, about 1 minute. At this point you can add food coloring. Continue to beat until the frosting has reached a thickness to spread well. (test on the back of a wooden spoon). Use immediately or store in airtight container at room temperature for up to 3 days. Frosting will set when placed in the refrigerator.
Black & Gold Yiqing Yin invite and Stèphane Rolland fan
haute couture fw2013 diary
Anniina wearing Acne & Kenzo
Outside Stéphane Rolland
Glam and glitz... Here are some of the highlights from this past July's FW2013/14 Haute Couture Week in Paris. Photos by Paul Antoine Goutal
Models after Vauthier show
Charin wearing Kenzo
Lindsay Wixson Alexander Vauthier
H au t e Co u t u r e
Klimt impact at Julien Fournié
Dark feathers at Yiqing Yin
On Aura Tout Vu
Elie Saab's stunning bride
Anna wearing Aganovich
d i a ry