eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI - April/May 2022

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MISSISSIPPI Viking Cooking School | Double Decker Festival | Mississippi Farmers Market

VOLUME 11, NUMBER 2 eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI

s ’ r e h t o M h c n u r B y a D s a e Id

Spring Festivals

From springtime merriment to crawdad feasts, plan out your weekends for April and May April/May 2022 $

7.95

Mother’s Day

April/May 2022

Treat Mom to recipes, gift ideas, weekend festival plans and more www.eatdrinkmississippi.com DISPLAY UNTIL May 31, 2022

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 1

Eating Fresh & Locally-Sourced in JXN REBECCA FENDING

S

pring is here, and with it comes a number of fresh ingredients from local farmers and harvesters. From fresh produce to in-season crawdads, the City with Soul has many great restaurants that feature the freshest that Mississippi has to offer.

The Manship - 1200 North State Street #100

a bit of everything for every taste.

Located in the Belhaven neighborhood, this restaurant is a favorite for many. Serving up Southern favorites with a Mediterranean twist, The Manship’s menu revolves around what’s in season. From fresh oysters to locally grown microgreens, this restaurant has

One popular dish is the Shrimp & Grits, available on the weekend brunch menu. Made with local Gulf shrimp and even served with roasted lemon, this dish is exactly what you need to complete your weekend.

Even the drink menu consists of locally-sourced spirits from Cathead Distillery, such as the Porch Swing cocktail made with Cathead Honeysuckle Vodka and Lavender-infused Lemonade.

Find out more at themanshipjackson.com.

Nissan Café by Nick Wallace’s 222 North Street Voted best chef in Jackson for the last four years, Nick Wallace’s Nissan Café offers Gulf shrimp and locally grown vegetables in each dish.

The Southern-Style Ramen is a popular choice for café visitors.

Made with smoked pork belly, boiled egg, scallions, roasted pineapple, cilantro and charred vegetable broth, this bowl is sure to warm you from the inside out.

Each Soup of the Day is made with locally sourced farm-to-table ingredients from local Mississippi farms. From fresh vegetables to homemade stocks and broths, soup at the Nissan Café is a taste of Mississippi paired with its deep history.

See the full menu at nickwallaceculinary.com/nissan-cafe-by-nick-wallace.

Walker’s Drive-In - 3016 North State Street Located in the Fondren District of the city, Walker’s Drive-In serves local ingredients and sustainable seafood Tuesday through Saturday.

Although many menu items are highly recommended by repeat

2 • April/May 2022

customers, the Fried Green Tomatoes are a lunch appetizer must.

Fried to crispy perfection, these tomatoes are topped with spicy locally-sourced crawfish, field greens and charred tomato lemon butter.

If you’re looking for something other than seafood, Walker’s also has filets and wagyu steaks for the red meat lovers out there. No matter what you order, you can’t go wrong.

Learn more at walkersdrivein.com.

Urban Foxes - 826 North Street Specializing in small-batch baked goods, Urban Foxes set up shop in a restored Craftsman-style house with the hopes of uniting tasty food and community.

Paired with the general theme of comfort at the café, the grilled cheese is what draws a majority of people for brunch or lunch. Made with bread from Sunflower Oven and a blend of sharp and mild cheeses, this sandwich is just what you need to satisfy an appetite.

Urban Foxes also serves made-fresh-daily scones, pies and cakes, with flavors that rotate daily. Pair any of these with a cup of locally roasted coffee or crafted coffee drink.

Enjoy whatever you order outside in the courtyard to get the full effect of Urban Foxes’ mission.

Find out more and see the full menu at urbanfoxesjxn.com.

Coffee Prose - 1619 North West Street Born from a love of Jackson and a wish to have a calm community space for great coffee and even better baked goods, Coffee Prose boasts a menu of uniquely flavored beverages, salads, sandwiches and soups.

Perhaps the most intriguing menu items at Coffee Prose are the specialty toasts. Options include the Daisy Buchanan, made with Ms. T’s bourbon peach jam, Chantilly cream and topped with granola. Or, if you prefer a savory toast, the Pip is a great option.

Made with a goat cheese spread, Ms. T’s tomato jam and Mississippi microgreens.

If the other toast options don’t appeal to you, Coffee Prose also offers a Build Your Own choice for $6—choose from your two favorite ingredients on the menu to make a perfectly “you” slice of heaven.

Learn more about the Coffee Prose story and menu at coffeeprose.com.

SOUL GRILLS. SOUL BRAISES. SOUL SAUTÉS. SOUL ROASTS. SOUL SIMMERS.

IN EVERY

BITE eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 3 visitjackson.com

CONTENTS April/May 2022 Volume 11 Number 2

29 49 51 in this issue

14 FRESH FROM THE FARM: JF Farms

in every issue 6 From the Editor 7

What’s Happening

10 Fabulous Foodie Finds 12 A Taste of Magnolia 52 Recipe Index 55 Till We Eat Again

18 MOTHER’S DAY BRUNCH RECIPES: 3 Recipes That Will Make Mom Proud 24 THE DOUBLE DECKER ARTS FESTIVAL: Putting Oxford on the Map for 25 Years 26 VIKING COOKING SCHOOL: Cook Like a Pro 28 MOTHER’S DAY BRUNCH 30 FULL MOON BBQ: Honoring Traditional Southern ‘Que 33 THE HISTORY BEHIND SANDWICHES 34 MOM & POP FOOD TRUCK: Locally Made and Locally Loved

4 • April/May 2022

36 LIVINGSTON, MISSISSIPPI: Bringing History Back to Life 40 MISSISSIPPI FARMERS MARKET AND GENUINE MISSISSIPPI STORE: Bringing Out the Best of the State 42 FROM MISSISSIPPI TO BEYOND: Bryant’s 44 MISSISSIPPI MADE: Grumpy Man Foods 46 RESTAURANT SPOTLIGHT: Jia 48 ROM THE BOOKSHELF: “Big Bad Breakfast” 51 RAISE YOUR GLASS: Classic Mint Julep

ON THE COVER: Southern Tomato Pie by Lisa LaFontaine Bynum, page 22.

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{ from the editor }

Springtime and Its Festivals

BY REBECCA FENDING

Spring brings an interesting mix of emotions for most people.

First, most are glad to be moving from the cold, winter-like weather and temperatures. But then with the season comes rain, mud and allergies. So really, spring is what you make it.

The vernal season also allows for festive events, Easter and Mother’s Day. While we have many Mother’s Day recipes waiting for you inside this edition, I’d like to take this space to present a few festivals happening throughout the state during the months of April and May. From festivals actually celebrating springtime to festive crawdad season events, there are so many ways you can celebrate the season in the state.

Natchez Euro Fest – Natchez April 22-23, from 10 am at Natchez Grand Hotel The 2022 Natchez Euro Fest Classic European Auto & Motorcycle Show, combining European engineering and beauty with Southern hospitality, will be another most enjoyable automotive and motorcycle event in Natchez, Mississippi. This will be the sixth annual show and once again is expected to exceed all expectations. Visit the website for all details, www.euro-fest.net/natchez.

Mississippi Ale House Brewfest – Olive Branch

Spring Fest 2022 (Formerly “Bloom Fest”) – Laurel

April 23, from 1 pm to 6 pm at Mississippi Ale House

April 9, from 9 am to 4 pm at South Mississippi Fairgrounds

Over 60 breweries from all over come to share their best and rarest beers, adding up to more than 150 brews to choose from. There will be a post-celebration concert by Twin Soul.

Purchase tickets and learn more at bestthingsms.com by searching for the event name.

This event features vendors from all over the South with handmade crafts, jewelry, woodwork, plants and floral design.

Delicious treats, artwork, face painting and so much more will be available for guests. Grab lunch on the grounds with TK’s Chik-on-a-Stik and Papa Doughs Pizza. Admission and parking are both free.

Kids Fest – Jackson April 9, from 10 am at Mississippi Trade Mart Featuring minifigure displays, bounce houses, costumed heroes, princesses, community organizations, video games, tabletop games, a nerf battle maze, photo ops and so much more. Tickets start at $15 and can be purchased at tixr.com by searching for the event name.

Crawfish Music Fest – Biloxi April 20-24 at the Mississippi Coast Coliseum and Convention Center A weekend packed with music, food and fun, the 29th annual Crawfish Music Fest is set for this month. Each night of the festival promises fun, excitement and a little something new.

Whether it’s the headline entertainment, hot boiled crawfish, crawfish cook-off or exciting Midway rides, you won’t want to miss this event! Tickets start at $30 and can be purchased online at mscoastcoliseum.com/p/crawfishmusicfestival.

2022 Earth Day Fest – Summit April 23, from 9 am to 3 pm at 700 Chestnut Street, Summit, MS Pike School of Art - Mississippi cordially invites you to take part in their 2022 Earth Day Fest. This event aims to bring the community together while promoting awareness to care for the Earth’s environment. The 2022 Earth Day Fest will be held at the ARC of Summit on Saturday, April 23, 2022 from 9 am to 3 pm. The festival is a free event, geared towards all ages and with the help of exhibitors, along with a wide variety of activities and services. Search for the event by name on Facebook to stay up to date.

Mudbug Music Festival – Natchez May 13 and 14, from 5:30 pm at The Bluff

Pine Hill Festival – Wiggins

The event will feature a full roster of live music, an endless supply of C&M Crawfish, a wide assortment of regional food and beverages. Cody Jinks, Bret Michaels, Lukas Nelson and the Promise of the Real, Lucinda Williams, Drive-By Truckers, The Wild Feathers, Red and the Revelers, and local favorite YZ Ealey will perform on stage. Find more at facebook.com/mudbugmusicfest.

April 30, from 9 am to 5 pm in Downtown Wiggins

2022 Mississippi Makers Festival – Jackson

Enjoy the Friday evening celebration of Stone County’s historical and cultural storytelling. This program is made possible by a grant from Mississippi Gulf Coast National Heritage Area. In addition to the enjoyable music, you will find an assortment of food vendors, arts and crafts, along with plenty of fun for the children. Find more information at stonecounty.com/stoneevents/pine-hill-festival-2/.

May 7, from 10 am to 9 pm at the Two Mississippi Museums This festival will feature Mississippi artisans, live music, makeand-take activities, food trucks, and more. The Mississippi Makers Fest offers a juried marketplace with low booth fees, artist hospitality perks, well-equipped facilities, generous parking, and security for our vendors. edm

EAT DRINK MISSISSIPPI (USPS 17200) is published bi-monthly by Connected Community Media Group, 10971 Four Seasons Pl. Ste. 211, Crown Point, IN 46307. Periodicals postage paid at Madison, MS, and additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Please mail changes of address to P.O. Box 1663, Madison, MS 39130.

6 • April/May 2022

{ what’s happening }

LaCour Kitchen and Bar Opens in Jackson’s

J

ackson’s Highland Village Shopping Center recently welcomed a French Brasserieinspired restaurant, LaCour Kitchen and Bar. LaCour features lunch, dinner, late-night and weekend brunch specials alongside a curated bar program. A jazz pianist will also be on-site during later hours to entertain guests. The menu includes dishes like mussels, charcuterie, French onion soup, lobster roll, redfish, steak and other inspired dishes. LaCour is open seven days a week and is located off the courtyard of Highland Village across from Aplos. edm

Horn Lake Restaurant to Offer Sloppy Joes

M

r. Q’s Sloppy Joes recently opened in Horn Lake after owner Quincy Randle realized there was a lack of eateries that offered one of his favorite sandwiches. The menu at Mr. Q’s features different three different kinds of sloppy joes – an original sandwich that features ground beef, onions and tomato sauce served on a hamburger bun, a smoky BBQ combo and a hot version of the popular sandwich. All three recipes are Randle’s own. Along with sloppy joes, patrons can find sloppy joe dogs, a hotdog with sloppy joe topping, chips, fries, onion rings, fried okra and coleslaw. Randle hopes to add breakfast to the menu soon as well. Mr. Q’s is open from 10 am to 6 pm every day and is located at 5441 Highway 51 North in Horn Lake. edm

Smallcakes Cupcakery Set to Open in Gluckstadt

S

mallcakes Cupcakery and Creamery is home to 18 signature cupcake flavors that are made from scratch each day. Their newest location is set for the growing community of Gluckstadt at 1091 Gluckstadt Road, next to Jersey Mike’s and Smoothie King. Their flavor options range from classics like chocolate, vanilla and red velvet to other unique flavors like hot fudge sundae, wedding cake, chocolate cream and peanut butter cup. If ice cream is more your speed, opt for flavors like birthday cake, cookies-n-cream, salted caramel crunch or blue monster cookie. edm eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 7

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{ fabulous foodie finds }

Pantone’s Color of the Year: Very Peri In honor of the Pantone Color of the Year for 2022, spruce up your kitchen with different purple appliances. “Very Peri” is just what you need to brighten your space this spring. The company described the color as “a periwinkle blue hue with a violet red undertone,” creating a totally new color for 2022 as opposed to the typical fashion of choosing one from the existing Pantone library.

“The Pantone Color of the Year reflects what is taking place in our global culture, expressing what people are looking for that color can hope to answer,” Laurie Pressman, vice president of the Pantone Color Institute, said in a press release.

With that, here are just a few ways you can update and personalize your kitchen space to reflect the unique year that is 2022.

Shatter-Proof Periwinkle Tumblers, $38.50 Start with a small but exciting change to your everyday kitchenware with these shatter-proof plastic tumblers from BELLAFORTE. Translucent and perfect for casual use or when hosting guests, these cups are sure to brighten your mood with every sip.

Not all plastic tumblers are made the same. These periwinkle cups are dishwasher safe, American made and BPA/EA free, meaning you can enjoy them without worrying about the chemicals within their walls.

Priced at $38.50, these recyclable cups are just what you need to subtly integrate personality into your kitchen. Find these and other similar tumblers on Amazon.com.

With six different colors and patterns, you can choose the set that perfectly fits your personality. Find this Prepdeck at Prepdeck.com.

Glass Storage Container, $12.99 Another great, simple addition or replacement for this spring is colorful storage containers. Whether it’s a dupe for Very Peri or a different color altogether, upgrading your food storage containers is a fun way to reflect springtime colors.

Glass containers are an especially great swap for traditional plastic food storage. As glass is a nonporous material, repeated use of the containers won’t stain or absorb the smell of meals past. Not to mention, glass is much easier to clean (and keep clean) than plastic.

This glass storage bowl from Target has a locking lid and periwinkle-colored silicon grid for better grip and slip resistance. Microwave and dishwasher safe, this bowl is perfect for housing an on-the-go lunch or leftover storage. Learn more at Target.com.

Kitchen Towels, $21.95 If you’re looking for a periwinkle pop that can easily be switched out for various seasons and other occasions, kitchen towels are a perfect option.

Whether they’re similar to our featured color or closer to a shade of blue or purple that you love, kitchen towels are a simple way to quickly personalize your kitchen space.

Listed as the color “lilac,” this set of four Turkish cotton towels from WilliamsSonoma are a beautiful way to bring spring into your kitchen. Machine wash these towels to keep them fresh and last for many springtime seasons to come. Order at Williams-Sonoma.com.

10 • April/May 2022

KitchenAid ® Mixer, $429.99 For those looking for a standing mixer but just haven’t been able to commit to a color yet, this mixer may be exactly what you were looking for.

Leaning slightly more periwinkle than the Very Peri color featured, this standing mixer from KitchenAid ® is still gorgeous and on-trend for the spring season.

This mixer’s five-quart capacity and multiple tool attachments make it a powerhouse in the kitchen for a number of reasons. Whip up a batch of cookies or even shred chicken with the paddle attachment in under a minute to make cooking and baking a breeze.

Order this mixer in the shade “Lavender Cream,” or find another color that perfectly matches your personality at KitchenAid.com.

Cooking Set, $138.90 For true purple or periwinkle lovers, upgrade your cooking ware to reflect your favorite color and Pantone’s declared shade of the year. This 16-piece lavender-periwinkle cooking set from Walmart is just what any pastel-loving home chef needs in their cabinets.

Crafted with a Thermolon non-stick coating, these GreenLife pots and pans are easy to clean and so much fun to work with. The pans are crafted with recycled aluminum in the name of conscious consumption. Finished in vibrant colors, this set is outfitted with stay-cool handles to keep your cooking comfortable. Durable fitted glass lids create a good look at any meal in progress without sacrificing heat. They’re even oven safe up to 350 degrees Fahrenheit!

Find this set and others like it at Walmart.com.

Dish Set, $89.99 The answer to making mealtime more exciting maybe these gorgeous ceramic dishes. Handcrafted by Regina Aguilar of Honduras, these dishes are made from three different types of local clay and glazes made from banana leaf ash. The periwinkle ceramic plates feature a subtle spiral pattern and slightly raised rim, making them a great choice for casual use or when hosting.

You can find this dish set on Novica.com, along with a number of other artisan-made goods. eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 11

Taste of Magnolia a

DIVIAN CONNER is a Mississippi mama of four ‘not so little’ little ones. Coming up with recipes, trying new ones, and feeding her crew of tweens and teens is her passion. Southern recipes, easy recipes, sorta hard recipes, but always delicious recipes is what you will find on her food blog, www.divianlconner.com.

Now venturing into outdoor cooking over an open fire, Divian is fascinated with camp cooking and entertaining.

12 • April/May 2022 12 • April/May 2022

Mini Creamy Chicken and Brie with Lingonberry Pies

BY DIVIAN CONNER

I

t does not take much for me to throw a “just because” party or dinner. I am one of those people who will see something online, want to try it and then boom: it’s party time. I have thrown murder mystery parties, gaming parties, Victorian dinners, all on a whim. Sometimes, I make full six to 10-course dinners, and other times, I go to the grocer and pick up anything that looks good and throw it on a platter. Seriously, throwing things on a platter is my favorite. I will put together a charcuterie board in 10.4 seconds flat–a slight exaggeration, but you get my drift.

Lately, I have been on a murder mystery party kick. Everyone is assigned a character to play. You receive some props, a character name tag and a printout of questions to ask or things to say to other players. Costumes are encouraged.

I have someone as a banker; who gives everyone their play money and a couple of blank checks. Not only do they have to interact and solve the mystery, but they can also bribe and trick people out of their money. My kids like the money part the most–teens love tricking you out of your cash. At the end of the party, we hand out awards for the best costume, the most money and who solved the crime. Good times are had by all.

When it comes to party planning, platters and charcuteries are so timesaving, leaving you to spend more time on other things. I have done Greek platters, burger platters, even a French fry platter with waffle fries, tater tots, sweet potato fries, regular fries and a multitude of dipping sauces. It is seriously so quick to do–put out a bunch of plates and let your guests have at it.

While platters are my go-to, creating eye-catching charcuterie boards are my jam. Who doesn’t love some great fresh fruit, cheeses they wouldn’t eat regularly and some little surprises here and there? I love the idea of bringing in a savory and hot element to my boards and have been obsessed with Aussie-style meat pies for quite some time. Mini pies make a surprisingly fun element to any board.

I have never been to Australia, but that doesn’t stop me from salivating over their signature meat pies. For spring, I decided to go a bit lighter–using chicken and brie instead of the traditional beef pies. These pies are the perfect complement to any charcuterie board or as a standalone main dish. They can be cut and scooped onto plates just as you would with any baked brie or passed out as a single entree. edm

MINI CREAMY CHICKEN AND BRIE WITH LINGONBERRY PIES Serves 3 Recipe Components: • Sliced brie • Lingonberry* or cranberry sauce • Pie crust • Shredded chicken • Gravy For the shredded chicken: • 2 boneless skinless chicken breasts • 2 tablespoons salted butter • 1 ½ teaspoons Creole seasoning • 2 finely chopped cloves of garlic • Salt and pepper to taste 1. Cook chicken in butter with seasoning until completely done. Once done, allow to cool and shred your chicken.

For the gravy: • ¼ cup vegetable oil or shortening • ¼ cup flour • 1 cup milk • 1 cup chicken broth • Salt and pepper to taste

1. In a saucepan, heat the oil on medium-high heat.

2. Slowly add the flour, making sure to whisk it thoroughly while adding to get rid of lumps. Keep whisking until it starts to brown.

3. Gradually add in your liquids, whisking. When the mixture starts to bubble, reduce the heat. If too thick, add more chicken broth. Turn off the heat once you reach gravy consistency and set aside.

Constructing the pies: 1. Using a large muffin tin, line with pie crust dough. Mix your shredded chicken with the gravy, and then scoop into each muffin cup, filling halfway. Add slices of brie and 1 to 2 teaspoons of lingonberry jam or cranberry sauce.

2. Top with pie crust and seal. Complete with egg wash and bake for 20 minutes at 400 degrees or until browned.

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 13

{ fresh from the farm }

JD Farms: Farm-to-Table

BY SUSAN MARQUEZ

J

eff Brown and Don van der Werken both have agricultural backgrounds and a love of farming. Dedicated to a healthier way of life, they began researching blueberry farming. “We were living in New Orleans and looking for a piece of property,” recalls Don. “We found an ad in a real estate rag for a piece of raw land in southern Mississippi, and we learned it had once been a test site for blueberries. We decided we would give it a go.” The two started JD Farms in 2008. The soil and climate in the Poplarville area are ideal for growing blueberries, and their

14 • April/May 2022

crop has done well. In addition to bulk blueberries, they began making products such as blueberry lemonade, blueberry juice, pies and more.

Then one day Don, was listening to a gardening show on Mississippi Public Broadcasting called the “Gestalt Gardener.”

The show’s host, horticulturist Felder Rushing, mentioned that Poplarville had, at one time, been a research center for camellias.

“We were looking for another crop, so we decided to plant camellias.”

You may be wondering why Jeff and Don chose camelias as a crop. It’s because the leaves of the camellia sinensis plant are harvested for tea. “I talked to some other local folks and learned that Lipton Tea once had a research center here in the 1950s,” says Don. Just as the soil and climate are ideal for growing blueberries, it is the same for growing tea. “The plants are really hearty,” says Don. “The deer don’t eat it, and for the most part, pests don’t bother it.”

Don and Jeff turned to Mississippi State University to help with tea research. “We knew how to grow it, but we didn’t know how to process it. As luck would have it, MSU had a

visiting professor from China who was a tea expert. He spent time with us and showed us how to make tea. We ordered our tea processing equipment from China, and now we produce green tea, blends with green tea and fermented black tea.”

When making their blueberry juices and lemonades, there is a lot of pulp left over. “I knew there had to be something we could do with it,” Don says. A side story is that they found an old coffee mill and grinder from a roasting operation in Kiln, Mississippi, that was destroyed by Katrina. “It was basically bits and pieces, but we bought it and got it working. We dried the blueberry pulp in big pizza ovens and added it to coffee beans eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 15

16 • April/May 2022

we bought from New Orleans and roasted in-house. Now we offer blueberry coffee, and people love it.”

They also add the blueberry pulp to a mixture of whole wheat, oatmeal and eggs to make dog treats. “The treats are safe for human consumption, but we don’t add sugar, so few people would like to eat them. However, dogs love them.”

Currently, JD Farms has 14 acres of blueberries and four acres of tea. They also grow pears, peaches and mayhaws. Tours of the farm are given by appointment. “We haven’t done as many tours because of Covid, but we do welcome groups,” says Don. “We have to do it by appointment only; however, because we are a working farm. We have had garden clubs, civic organizations and other groups come over the years, and everyone seems to enjoy it.”

Along the way, Jeff and Don have acquired a bakery inherited from a neighbor who passed away. They offer blueberry muffins, pies, scones and more, including German stollen during the holidays. “We follow the seasons,” Don says.

Products produced on the farm can be purchased through their website, JDFarms.us, as well as at area farmers’ markets and various festivals. edm

may 6-8, 2022

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eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 17

Mother’ s Day Brunch Recipes 18 • April/May 2022

BY LISA LAFONTAINE BYNUM

I

s your mom always the one in the kitchen? You’ll usually find her cooking up a storm for family dinners, holiday gatherings and everything in between. This Mother’s Day, give mom a break by surprising her with a homemade brunch menu fit for a queen. edm

That Will Make Mom Proud eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 19

Strawberry and

Ginger Champagne Spritzers

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Tater Tot Ham and Cheese Breakfast Casserole

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 21

STRAWBERRY AND GINGER CHAMPAGNE SPRITZERS Ingredients: • 1 pound fresh or thawed frozen strawberries, roughly chopped • 1 cup granulated sugar • 2-inch piece of peeled fresh ginger • 1 cup water • 1/4 cup fresh lemon juice • 1 bottle (750ml) semi-dry champagne, sparkling wine, or 24 fluid ounces ginger ale 1. In a medium saucepan, combine the strawberries, sugar, ginger and water. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat.

2. Lower the heat to medium-low and simmer, stirring occasionally, until the strawberries are broken down and softened, approximately 15 to 20 minutes.

3. Remove and discard the ginger. Pour mixture through a fine-mesh sieve or strainer, pressing on the solids to extract as much juice as you can.

4. Add the lemon juice and allow the mixture to come to room temperature before placing it in the refrigerator to chill.

5. Just before serving, add about 1 ounce each of the strawberry syrup to six champagne flutes.

6. Slowly fill each glass partially with the champagne. Once the champagne has stopped fizzing, continue to fill each glass to the top.

6. Add 1 cup of the shredded cheese and the entire ham mixture. Stir to combine.

7. Arrange the tater tots in a single layer on the bottom of a greased 9 x 13 x 2-inch casserole dish.

8. Pour the egg mixture over the top.

9. Bake for 45 minutes until the eggs are set.

SOUTHERN TOMATO PIE For the buttermilk biscuit crust: • 2 cups all-purpose flour • 1 tablespoon sugar • 1/4 teaspoon baking soda • 2 teaspoons baking powder • 1 teaspoon salt • 1/2 cup cold unsalted butter, grated • 3/4 cup cold buttermilk, more if needed For the tomato pie: • 2-3 small to medium ripe tomatoes sliced ¼-inch thick • 2/3 cup shredded Swiss cheese • 1/3 cup mayonnaise • 1/3 cup finely chopped herbs such as basil, parsley, and oregano • 1/8 teaspoon ground black pepper For the buttermilk biscuit crust: 1. Preheat oven to 450 degrees. Position rack in the middle of the oven.

TATER TOT HAM AND CHEESE BREAKFAST CASSEROLE Ingredients: • 1 1/2 teaspoons oil • 1 large red bell pepper, diced • 3 green onions, chopped • 1 pound (16 ounces) country ham, diced • 8 large eggs • 1/2 cup milk • 1/2 teaspoon salt • 1/4 teaspoon pepper • 1 (8-ounce) package shredded cheddar cheese, divided • 1 (32-ounce) package frozen tater tots 1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. 2. Heat oil over medium heat.

3. Add the bell peppers and green onions and sauté for 5 minutes or until tender.

4. Add the diced ham and cook until the ham is light pink, about 2 minutes more. Remove the pan from the heat and set aside to cool slightly.

5. In a large mixing bowl, whisk eggs, milk, salt and pepper together.

22 • April/May 2022

2. In a large bowl, combine flour, sugar, baking soda, baking powder and salt.

3. Add the butter and stir until pieces of butter are mixed evenly throughout the flour mixture.

4. Add ¾ cup of buttermilk and stir until dough comes together and begins to leave the side of the bowl, adding additional milk if necessary.

5. Turn dough out onto a floured surface. Lightly knead 10 times.

6. Form the dough into a 5-inch round. Then, using a flour rolling pin, roll the dough out into a round measuring at least 13-inches wide and about ½-inch thick.

7. Fit the dough into a 9-inch pie plate or quiche pan.

8. Using the tines of a fork, prick about a dozen holes into the bottom of the crust. This will prevent any bubbles from forming in the crust as it’s baking.

9. Bake for about 8-10 minutes, until the crust is just starting to turn brown.

For the tomato pie: 1. Arrange the tomato slices on a layer of paper towels. Pat the tops dry with another paper towel to remove any excess moisture.

2. Combine the cheese, mayonnaise, herbs and 1/8 teaspoon pepper in a small bowl. Spread the herb cheese mixture over the top of the biscuit crust.

3. Arrange the tomato slices over the cheese.

4. Return the pie to the oven and bake for an additional 10-

15 minutes until the tomatoes are heated through and the cheese is melted.

5. Allow the pie to cool for 15 minutes before serving.

6. Cut into slices and serve warm.

Southern Tomato Pie

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 23

The Double Decker Arts Festival: Putting Oxford on the Map for 25 Years

BY BRANDI PERRY

O

xford, Mississippi, had a vision 25 years ago inspired by the famous double-decker bus imported to the city in 1994. What began as a small-town event has grown into one of the premier events in all the southeast. What started as a one-day event and an old truck bed serving as the music stage has grown tremendously.

Now presented as a two-day event, there is more than enough food, art and music for the more than 60,000 people who soak up everything Oxford can give them. After the 2021 event was canceled due to the Coronavirus, this may be the biggest year ever for the event.

The festival kicks off Friday, April 22, with a variety of art demonstrations around the square followed by an evening full of music while Thacker Radio hosts its live broadcast.

Saturday will be an all-day event complete with about 100 art vendors and more than 20 local food vendors, all while a variety of touring musicians take the stage and delight the fans throughout the day.

Friday night’s music will kick off at 6:15 pm when The Wilkins Sister of Memphis, Tennessee, takes the stage. Known best for their award-winning full-length record You Can’t Hurry God, the sisters will sing a mix of gospel, blues and R&B. At 7:45 pm, Virginia natives 49 Winchester will take the stage with their rock and roll music, blended with the traditions of Appalachia. Owners of three albums and hundreds of live performances, this group will have the Oxford crowd rocking on Friday night. Friday night’s headliner will take the stage at 9 pm, bringing with him a 2018 Country Songwriter Artist of the Year and ACM, Billboard, Teen Choice, CMT and CMA Awards. For country fans, Brett Young is a household name thanks to his songs “Lady,” “In Case You Didn’t Know,” 24 • April/May 2022

“Mercy,” “Like I Loved You,” and many others.

Saturday, April 23, is jam-packed with musical acts from all over the country. The festivities kick off that morning at 11 am with local favorites, Happy Landing, an alternative folk band that got its start while the members were attending the University of Mississippi. Through various musical influences (alternative rock, bluegrass, pop-punk), the band is known for its harmonies and instrumental executions.

Buffalo Nichols will take the stage at 12:30 pm with his worldwide influence of blues, jazz and folk music. His music is an outlet for self-expression, and attendees will be amazed at his musical emotions and inspired by the renditions of a longgone era of music.

At 2 pm, Maggie Rose, with her rock and roll, soul, folk,

funk and R&B sounds will take the stage. 2019 was a big year for Maggie as she opened for Heart and Joan Jett and the Blackhearts, in addition to sharing the bill on the Cayamo Cruise with Emmylou Harris and Jason Isbell. With more than 80 Grand Ole Opry appearances, she is sure to rock Oxford.

At 3:30 pm, Samantha Fish and her top-ranking status as a contemporary blues guitarist will take the stage and be followed at 5 pm by one of America’s defining voices of freedom and peace, Mavis Staples. In addition to marching with Dr. Martin Luther King, Jr., performing for John F. Kennedy’s inauguration and singing in the Obama White House, she will bring her Rock and Roll Hall of Fame and Blues Hall of Fame to the stage. Staples will take attendees on a soulful, emotional and rocking journey.

At 6:30 pm, one of the great trombone and jazz musicians of our era will take the stage. Trombone Shorty and Orleans Avenue have rocked the city of New Orleans for years at the New Orleans Jazz and Heritage Festival, but the accolades do not stop there. In addition to playing with Aaron Neville, Lenny Kravitz, She & Him, Zac Brown, Dierks Bentley and Mark Ronson, he has also opened tours for Daryl Hall & John Oates and Red Hot Chili Peppers. Five White House performances will tell you that this is a show you do not want to miss.

Closing out Saturday night and the festival is The Revivalists at 8:30 pm. In addition to being a mainstay in the Billboard Hot 100, they have performed on Austin City Limits, The Late Show with Stephen Colbert, Jimmy Kimmel Live, The Ellen Show, TODAY and have been nominated for numerous awards and were named the Billboard’s Top New Rock Artist of 2017.

Even though there is a huge amount of marquee-named performers at the 2022 Double Decker Festival, there are just as many delicious foods as there are talented artists. Like any good southern festival, there will be a wide selection of sweets and savory foods: all made with love and charm! So, whether you are enjoying a thick slice of pizza, a snow cone with cream or even roast beef sandwiches, you can rest assured all the vendors are there to showcase their best product!

There is nothing like a good art festival; that is one of the most exciting aspects of the Double Decker Festival. Visitors will be exposed to a variety of media that includes paintings, glass, jewelry, mixed media, painting, photography, printmaking and even sculptures. There will be so many incredible opportunities to visit with and purchase your favorite type of art.

Since 2005, the Double Decker Arts Festival has brought home local, regional and national awards, including a nod from Mississippi Magazine on multiple occasions for Best Free Event in the state. Yes, the entire event is free to attend! In 2009, the Mississippi Tourism Association named the Double Decker the

Best Large Festival in Mississippi. In 2010, the Association of Destination Management Executives International named the festival the Best Public Event.

If you are planning to attend, the entire festival occurs around the square in Downtown Oxford, rain or shine. On Friday, there are also two historic Oxford bus tours with a tour guide that is available from Visit Oxford. The tours are at 3 and 4 pm, and tickets are $10 for adults and $8 for children. Please call (662) 232-2477 to reserve seats.

The Double Decker Spring Run (5k, 10k and Fun Run) will commence on Saturday. Contact the Oxford Chamber of Commerce to sign up or for more information. Additionally, Double Decker Arts Festival merchandise is available at the Visit Oxford office (1013 Jackson Avenue East) ahead of the festival as well as the Merchandise and Information booth located at the corner of FNB bank on North Lamar. Posters and t-shirts with the 2019 artwork as well as t-shirts without the artwork will be available. Past years’ posters will also be available for purchase.

For more information on the 2022 Double Decker Arts Festival, go to doubledeckerfestival.com or check out their Facebook, Instagram or Twitter. You can also give them a call at (662) 232-2477 or by email at tourism@visitoxfordms.com. edm

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 25

Viking Cooking School: Cook Like a Pro

BY SUSAN MARQUEZ

O

ne by one, a dozen women come through the doors of the Viking Cooking School in Greenwood. It’s a Saturday night, and the women are there to celebrate the 40th birthday of a friend. For a couple of hours, they forget about their jobs, children and husbands as they check their cares at the door. They visit for a bit, then settle in as the instructor talks about what they will be cooking that evening. The women take notes during a demonstration before donning aprons to chop, stir, whisk, grill and sip wine.

The Viking Cooking School is the offspring of Viking Range, a Greenwoodbased company that has gained a worldwide following. Started by Fred Carl in the late 1980s, Viking manufactures restaurant-style ovens as well as other kitchen appliances and cookware.

Kimberly Gnemi has been the general manager of the cooking school for nine years. “I started at Viking in June 2003 as an accountant. At one time, there were cooking classes held at the Viking Corporation’s manufacturing facility, but in 2005, Viking Cooking School opened on Howard Street in downtown Greenwood.” With the Alluvian Hotel, opened in May 2003, across the street, it became a perfect scenario for people to come from across the country to experience the Mississippi Delta and to learn cooking techniques from worldclass chefs. “We had chefs who flew in from all over to guest-teach classes,” says Kimberly. “Covid put a stop to that for a while, but we will bring that back the end of this year.”

26 • April/May 2022

Classes are still happening, with one full-time chef and five part-time chefs.

“Loren Lefleur is there every day,” says Kimberly. “She is our kitchen manager, and she teaches classes.” Part-time chefs, who are the best at their craft, include Leanne Gault, Nikita Quarles, Morgan Meredith, Chris Byrd and Paul Brown. Seasonal menus, all tested in the Viking kitchen, are offered along with current cooking trends.

Kimberly is a native of the Greenwood area and says there was a time when she knew everyone in town. “But now it’s different. I look at the rosters for the weekend classes, and I often don’t know a single person on the list. We have a huge draw from Little Rock, Memphis, West Monroe and the Jackson area. Many of the people who come are repeat guests, or they have been recommended by previous guests. We have a lot of wedding parties, reunions and just friends who get together to do something fun and different.”

There are six classes each weekend, two on Friday evening, two on Saturday morning and two Saturday evening. “We sometimes do classes on Thursday nights,” says Kimberly. “We also do a quarterly ‘Tuesday on the Rocks’ class that is 100% supported by locals. It’s dinner and cocktails and it’s just a lot of fun.”

There are typically 12 people in a hands-on class. “We can host more people in our demonstration classes.” Classes usually run for about an hour and a half, with the goal of teaching at least one cooking technique. “We have seasoned cooks and beginners. Even the seasoned cooks are amazed that they learned a new technique or a new way of doing something they’ve done forever. Overall, we aim to provide a wonderful experience for everyone.”

Of course, all recipes are made in the Viking Cooking School’s state-of-the-art kitchen, outfitted with the newest Viking appliances, cookware and cutlery. There is also a store attached that sells Viking products. For more information on class schedules, visit the Viking website at www.vikingrange.com. edm eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 27

M oth e r ’s Da y Bru n ch

BY KATHERINE COWGER ORANGE CARDAMOM MADELEINES MAKES ABOUT 20 MADELEINES Light and delicate madeleines. A cross between a cookie and cake, these classic French butter cakes would be a perfect sweet treat for a Mother’s Day tea. Notes of orange and cardamom add a unique depth of flavor that pairs perfectly with the sweet, vanilla flavor of these petite butter cakes!

Ingredients: For the pan • 1 tbsp butter, melted • 2 tsp all-purpose flour For the madeleines • 10 tbsp butter, melted • 2 large eggs - room temperature • 3 tbsp light brown sugar • 1/2 cup granulated sugar

• • • • • •

3 tsp vanilla extract 1/4 tsp salt 1 1/4 cup all-purpose flour 2 tsp orange zest 1/4 tsp ground cardamom Powdered sugar for sifting on top (optional)

Directions: 1. Preheat oven to 375°. In a small bowl whisk together 1 tbsp of melted butter and 2 tsp flour and coat the madeleine pan with the mixture. Set aside.

2. In a large mixing bowl combine the eggs, sugars, vanilla extract, and salt. Whisk with a stand mixer or by hand until thoroughly combined.

3. Sift in the flour a little at a time, gently mixing after each addition. Slowly pour in the melted and cooled butter, folding in until combined. Be careful not to over-mix!

4. Place healthy tablespoons of the batter onto each section on the prepared madeleine pan. Bake for about 9 minutes until the edges are lightly golden.

Immediately remove the madeleines from the pan onto a cooling rack.

Optional: Sift madeleines with powdered sugar before serving Note: My madeleine pan did not fit all of the batter. I baked the first batch and then allowed the pan to cool before baking the rest.

SPRING ORZO PASTA SALAD WITH DIJON HERB VINAIGRETTE MAKES ABOUT 8-10 SERVINGS This fresh orzo pasta salad is filled with vibrant colors from seasonal vegetables, perfect for spring. Green peas, asparagus and radishes paired with a sweet honey Dijon dressing, salty feta and toasty almonds, make for a delicious bite bursting with spring flavors!

Ingredients: • 8 oz orzo pasta (1/2 a box) • 1 bunch of asparagus - chopped • 2 cups frozen peas • 6-8 radishes, thinly sliced

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• 1/3 cup feta cheese • 1/4 cup sliced toasted almonds For the dressing • The zest and juice of 1 lemon • 2 tbsp Dijon mustard • 2 tbsp honey • 1/2 shallot • 1 large clove garlic • 1/2 cup olive oil • 2 tbsp parsley • 1 tbsp dill or basil or thyme or any mixture of herbs Optional: extra feta, almonds and herbs for garnish Directions: 5. Bring a large pot of water to a boil and cook the orzo for about 8 minutes until al dente. Drain and immediately rinse with cold water to cool the pasta.

6. In the same pot, boil more water.

Cook the asparagus for about 4 minutes. Add the frozen peas to the pot, stir, then quickly drain.

Transfer the vegetables to an ice bath to stop the cooking and lock in that green color! Drain and set aside.

7. In a food processor, blend all of the ingredients for the dressing together until smooth. Opt to mince the shallot and garlic and whisk the ingredients together by hand.

8. In a large bowl combine the cooled orzo, peas, asparagus, radishes, feta and almonds with the dressing. Top with extra feta, almonds and herbs and enjoy!

About the author: Katherine is from Madison Mississippi and currently studying Foods and Nutrition and Psychology at Samford University in Birmingham Alabama. In her free time, you can probably find her redecorating her room, trying a new workout class and of course, cooking! edm

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 29

Fu l l Moon B B Q: H o no ring T radit ional So u thern ‘Que

BY REBECCA FENDING

T

he South is no stranger to what makes barbecue, especially when it comes to techniques and philosophies that create great meats. This same sentiment goes for the Maluff brothers, David and Joe, of Full Moon BBQ. Taken over in 1996, this barbecue brand has made a name for itself throughout the South.

David explains that growing up, Maluff family life revolved around food. “We come from a family of food. We’re Lebanese; everything revolves around food. And when it came to sharing and cooking food, Mediterranean cuisine is always popular.”

From this love of cultural food came his mother’s catering business. Working out of the family home’s kitchen, Mama Maluff made food for anyone who came to Birmingham, Alabama, and was looking for Lebanese or Mediterraneanstyle food. “We were born into the food business. We just had a sense of what would work, and that really adds up after working with food since I was 15,” says David.

Full Moon BBQ’s story begins in 1986, when Pat “Coach” James, of University of Alabama, LSU, University of Oklahoma fame, and his wife, Eloise, bought and operated the first Full Moon BBQ location in southern Birmingham. In 1996, the Maluff brothers made Coach an offer he couldn’t refuse after falling in love with the brand’s mode of operation and beliefs.

The brothers soon took over the barbecue brand. From then

30 • April/May 2022

Owners of the Madison, MS, location. From left to right: Joe Maluff, Brian Ahmed, David Maluff

on, Full Moon BBQ has blossomed into a household name for many across the South.

Full Moon BBQ specializes in traditional, old-fashioned Southern barbecue using a wood-burning hickory pit in each restaurant location. David says this is because these traditional pits make for the best barbecue pork and chicken, while Full Moon also uses a smoker for brisket and wings.

Everything served at Full Moon BBQ is made from scratch using recipes and techniques David loves. “Our coleslaw is marinated in a vinaigrette, which I love,” he says. And other people love the slaw, too, as evidenced by the number of various copycat recipes floating around on Pinterest and other recipe-related sites.

David’s favorite menu item is the BBQ pork sandwich, sliced outside (charred burnt meat “bar”) and paired with Full Moon BBQ’s chow chow, which is sold nationwide on their website. Turkey, brisket, pork and chicken also grace the menu, all made fresh daily. “There’s something for everybody. With everything made from scratch,” David says.

When it comes to Mississippi-influence on Full Moon, David explains that the state had a large impact on the brothers. “I love the family values of Mississippi. I’m in Madison, and that town, to me, is a diamond. It’s a great town.

Between the schools and restaurants, everyone wants to be here,” David explains. “Madison is big on community; it gives us a great opportunity to find ourselves in our community.”

Full Moon’s only Mississippi location is currently in Madison, where the menu boasts a dish exclusive to the state.

The Soul Bowl, named for the Southern soul so unique to Mississippi, is a portion of stone-ground grits, topped with fresh collard greens and your protein of choice (pork, blackened shrimp, chicken, brisket, etc.). Crispy, thin onion rings dress the top to complete this bowl of southern comfort.

David explains that the brand’s success is attributed to, “Our love of food, love of taking care of guests, it just makes us happy. If you serve a truly good product, which we do, it’s so satisfying to see repeat customers for generations to come.”

Full Moon BBQ also offers a range of barbecue-related products. From their Southern Seasoning to their Alabama White Sauce that’s great for salads, fries and any white meat, you can enjoy a taste of Full Moon in your own kitchen.

Today, there are 17 Full Moon BBQ locations, and the Maluff brothers are looking to expand. David says that the future is bright for Full Moon BBQ. “For as much as we love Mississippi, we’re really looking forward to moving throughout the state.” For more information, a full menu and to order products, visit fullmoonbbq.com. edm

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 31

32 • April/May 2022

The History Behind Sandwiches

BY JULIAN BRUNT

E

veryone has heard that the Earl of Sandwich invented the sandwich in 1762, or thereabouts. It’s an interesting story but certainly isn’t true. The people of the Middle East have been putting leftovers on flatbread for generations, and the frugal French have been doing the same thing with their crusty baguettes, albeit sliced open and stuffed. But nowhere in the world has the idea of the sandwich taken off as it has in the U.S., and no part of this country enjoys the idea more than in the Deep South. I have read that Americans eat three million sandwiches a day, and I’d wager a significant portion of that number are in the South.

Upscale sandwiches, like the Muffuletta from New Orleans, the Reuben, either from Omaha or New York City, depending on who you ask, and the French Dip from Los Angeles are all good examples of favorite American sandwiches. However, the sandwiches I grew up on in the South were something quite different.

I am still a huge sandwich fan and love to get creative when in the sandwich mood. I often drive to a local bakery to buy a crusty loaf of bread, something dense and chewy, but when I was a kid, soft crustless bread was just being introduced and had become the fashion.

Before American white bread made the scene, some pretty interesting bread could be found. But white bread took over, mainly because it was marketed as “sophisticated” bread. It didn’t have a crust, which was required to keep it fresh. The message was that crusty bread was for the poor. It was soft and easy on children’s tender mouths, but it has no other redeeming qualities and certainly is not delicious.

One of our favorite toppings for American sandwiches is cheese. But cheese has met the same demise as crusty bread. It’s been dumbed down to the point that the average grocery store carries only cheddar (not real cheddar), grated parmesan (not real parmesan Reggiano), Swiss (same thing), Colby jack, Velveeta, which isn’t a cheese at all, and a few others.

Think about this: the French alone produce more than 300 recognized cheeses. How many can you name? Other than parmesan Reggiano and mozzarella, how many Italian cheeses can you buy at the store? There are hundreds. Parmesan Reggiano is

the bestselling cheese in Italy. What’s the number two bestselling cheese? It’s Taleggio.

I am not being snooty, just making the point that the ingredients of Southern sandwiches are more often than not simple stuff. In fact, they were born of poverty, as are so many food traditions. When I was a kid, perhaps my favorite sandwich was a simple hot dog on a white bread bun. It was vastly better when charred on a charcoal fire, but we often ate them just boiled in water. And yes, we ate them with ketchup. I also enjoyed mustard and mayo, and if I could get a thin slice of American cheese to go on top, that was a great thing indeed.

The grilled cheese may be the most famous. In my youth, grilled cheese was almost always served with Campbell’s bean and bacon soup, tomato soup or chicken noodle. I tell you, a good grilled cheese (several slices of cheese make it so much better), cut in half and dipped in a bowl of hot soup, is pretty damn good.

It is one of my comfort foods of choice.

Banana sandwiches are also pretty good. I love the combination of banana, peanut butter and mayo sandwich. If you add bacon to it, it becomes the Elvis, named, of course, for Elvis Presley. The Elvis is also pretty darn good grilled, like a grilled cheese.

In these difficult times, many people have become creative with comfort food, and many creative sandwiches have been created. I love a Vienna sausage, mayo and pickle sandwich. Corned beef and mustard are not much of a stretch, but if you sauté the corned beef first, it is much better. The same thing goes for Spam. I have made sandwiches from leftover braised leek, but more often than not, I try to keep it simple: a fried egg sandwich, which can be souped up with bacon (or sausage) and cheese. And it is hard to beat a good ham sandwich; the hard part is finding a good, smoked ham. I adore Black Forest ham but have never found any in the U.S. close to the Schwartzwald chicken we used to get in southern Germany.

I love a good sandwich and don’t follow any specific rules, like no ketchup on a hot dog. A sandwich can be made from almost any leftover in the fridge, it’s hand potable and can be inexpensive, and, if you use a little creativity, absolutely delish.

Don’t forget the soup! edm eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 33

M o m & P op Food Tru ck: Lo cally M ade a n d L o cally Lo ved

BY JAY REED

F

ood trucks have been a fascination for some time now, maybe even longer than many realize. It’s only been a year or so since the Oscar Mayer Wienermobile made its way to Starkville, but the iconic (and literal) hot dog truck has been around since the mid-1930s. Today, it’s more marketing than cooking, but it’s still on the road. (And if now you can’t get “I’d love to be an Oscar Mayer Wiener” to stop playing in your head, you’re welcome.) Jump forward a couple of decades, and perhaps a different sing-song tune is playing, announcing the ice cream truck rolling through your neighborhood. But food trucks, as we think of them today, have a little more recent history.

There were King Taco trucks in Los Angeles as early as the 1970s, but 2008 was the year Roy Choi opened up the Kogi Korean BBQ truck. Since then, it’s been uphill… and downhill… and any direction a truck can go, as the food truck revolution continues to grow. Food Network lists at least six different shows about food trucks. I’ve personally attended two Food Truck Mash-Ups in Jackson. Food trucks aren’t going anywhere, or should we say they’re going everywhere? Food trucks are definitely trending.

Bigger cities tend to see trends like these first. But in recent days, food trucks have gained a foothold in some of the smaller towns of Mississippi. Pontotoc has Tanglewood Food Truck Park, and Starkville hosts a park on the former site of its farmers’ market. A few years ago, it was hard to find a truck when you wanted one (dare I say needed?), but now, on most days, we’ve got choices.

In the Starkville area, one of the trucks that has led the way in longevity and creativity is the Mom and Pop truck. It rolled into town in late March of 2020 with Chef Hunter Bell at the wheel, his wife Hannah riding shotgun. Originally a delivery van in California, it went all the way to Washington, D.C., to a company that built it out and painted it according to the Bells’ specifications, then it was picked up and driven

34 • April/May 2022

to Mississippi. But the journey for the Mom and Pop business started long before that.

Hunter and Hannah both attended The W in Columbus, where Hunter got a culinary management degree.

Ironically, they never met on campus; both lived in Starkville and connected by way of another local restaurant. Once married, they decided to stay in Starkville and open their own business. A food truck wasn’t necessarily the end goal, but after a brief foray into that world, it seemed like a solid stepping stone into the growing culinary scene.

Before launching the truck, Hunter said, they had to find a base location, aka a “commissary.” This is common to all food trucks: everybody has to have a place to store food and supplies, clean the dishes, etc. But unless a truck already has a “brick-and-mortar” restaurant, the commissary is often behind the scenes. Customers see on social media where a truck will be parked and serving day to day, or perhaps get lucky enough to happen upon it while driving by, but after the windows are closed and it drives away, who knows where it goes?

With Mom and Pop, however, the base location was announced before the truck ever hit the road: the former location of The Biscuit Shop on Washington Street, just a half block down from Main Street. (One purveyor of comfort food made way for another, it seems.)

Despite the fact that they have a home base, it’s still a food truck life. Restaurants without tires tend to have a more regular schedule—certain days at certain times. Prep, serve, clean up, go home, repeat. When asked what a typical “day in the life” of a food truck looks like, Hunter said—not surprisingly—that there really is no typical day.

That may be because they have a lot of irons in the cooking fire. Of course, the truck is the focus at the moment or at least the most visible to the hungry public. From it, they can serve quick meals from a parking space on the side of the street, or it may work as a vessel for catering, whether they serve from the truck itself or use it primarily to transport the food. The outer decor of the truck was actually designed with events in mind, and in a strange twist, the pandemic has helped pave the way for food trucks to be featured at wedding receptions and the like. As the time has passed and they’ve

put a few more miles in the business and, as the world has evolved again and again, they’ve continued to pivot and explore options.

In hindsight, the general public might look at the early months of 2020 and say, “Maybe this isn’t the best time to open a restaurant.” In fact, many restaurants across the country closed during that time, and some never reopened. For the Mom and Pop food truck, however, it was an opportunity to serve the community. Tired of cooking at home under quarantine or during those initial curve-flattening weeks? Mom and Pop would come to you. In those earlier days, both the schedule and the menu made a pivot. Instead of the breakfast and lunch wraps and sandwiches that would later become menu staples, the Bells and their crew turned to casseroles and quiches and took the truck to the neighborhoods of Starkville. And though they may not have had the traditional ice cream truck music blaring from a speaker, they did serve ice cream from the truck during that season.

The need to be flexible actually played into the business name. They wanted a mom-and-pop business: locally based, locally supported and with local partnerships. But they didn’t want to be locked into a particular menu. BBQ trucks sell BBQ; taco trucks sell tacos. A mom-and-pop truck could feed whatever the need might be and would allow Hunter’s culinary creativity to have a home. Coincidence or not, they were also new parents. The name Mom and Pop checked all the boxes.

Once the world began to normalize a little, the truck shifted back into the traditional mode of lunch stops around Starkville and visits to other local towns in the area, like Grenada, Hunter’s hometown. They can also be found working festivals or feeding firemen. Hungry students might find them parked in the Cotton District on weekend late nights. Their Instagram account is evidence of all the weddings they’ve been invited to cater. Again, no typical day… or night.

Unlike most restaurants, the usual front-of-house (hosting and serving) and back-of-house (cooking and office) division of labor is a little less black and white. Whoever is on the truck may be cooking, taking orders, checking out customers, and probably taking social media pics of the truck, the menu of the day and some of the food. Hunter is the chef and… chief mechanic? He said, “With a truck… if it can go wrong, it will. I was not expecting to be a diesel mechanic when I

started this.” If the truck isn’t running, the core of the business isn’t running. Commitments are made, and the truck is literally the vehicle that gets them there.

It has to be gassed up for travel and for cooking. So far, still not typical.

But just because he’s acquired mad mechanical skills doesn’t mean he’s left the culinary side behind. “I think of stuff all the time,” he says, and the menu development over the last couple of years has shown that. The Bells liked the wraps at City Bagel, and when it closed, they realized there was still a niche for that kind of lunch/breakfast item. Some of Hunter’s favorite ingredients and concepts have resonated with the locals and are staples on the truck and in the shop. The Chicken Bacon Ranch is one of their signature wraps, along with the Jerk Chicken wrap, with pineapple, pepper jack cheese and chipotle mayo. Hunter is also a fan of the Monte Cristo sandwich: ham and three cheeses, grilled like French toast, served with powdered sugar and seasonal jelly. There was no one else around town serving it at the time, and it has become a crowd favorite.

These days, in the shop, you’ll find individual meal preps in the cooler which can be purchased for lunch the next day or the next week. You might also be able to grab a container of soup (and remember, they won a soup award!) There’s a fridge/freezer in the corner which has casseroles and similar “take and bakes,” which make feeding the family a little easier.

The shop also has a case often stocked with baked sweet treats, especially around holidays.

From day to day, the menu may vary on the truck or in the shop, but that’s the novelty of a food truck. Late-night items might be moved to lunch (hello, Dawg Bowl). King cakes appear in the weeks before Mardi Gras. Chocolatecovered strawberries welcome Valentine’s Day. Thanksgiving brings all the traditional sides. They even had tacos once.

A day in the life of a food truck, as it turns out, is only typical in that it’s not typical. But that’s okay with the folks in Starkville and surrounding areas. They are glad to be home base for Mom and Pop. Ultimately, they are the folks for whom the Bells roll.

Learn more at facebook.com/starkvillemomandpop, @ mom_andpop on Instagram or by calling 662-809-3264. edm

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 35

L i vi ng s to n, Mis s is s ippi: B r i ng i ng His t or y Ba c k t o L i fe

BY BRANDI PERRY

W

ith Mother’s Day just around the corner, we have a suggestion that may be mom’s favorite trip yet!

Located in the southeast portion of Madison County, Livingston has a unique history that was nearly lost.

Once a booming commercial center, the county seat was moved from Beatties Bluff to Livingston in 1829. A Methodist church was built in 1830 to deal with the church needs in the area, and things seemed to be going well for the small Madison County town. The construction of the courthouse and jail soon followed in 1833, and the thriving town was incorporated in 1836. Unfortunately, by the 1850s, railroads crisscrossed the county, but Livingston was bypassed by the rails. After being an important trading center for nearby plantations and farms, the bad news continued for the citizens when the Civil War was raging. Their Masonic Lodge was ransacked and destroyed by Union forces, and the once-bustling town was nearly deserted.

This appeared to be the end of the historic town. By the 1940s, Livingston had lost its charter and was demoted from a town to an unincorporated community. Thankfully, developers had a different idea in store for Livingston in 2012. Land developer and history buff, David Landrum, saw the location and could not ignore the beauty the area offered or the potential. It did not take him long to decide that he wanted to breathe new life into Livingston.

A small farmer’s market opened in Livingston and featured 36 • April/May 2022

food and entertainment. The event became one of the most popular summer events in Madison County and attracted performers, including country singer Travis Tritt. When it was obvious there was a draw to the new life breathed into Livingston, developers went a step forward by investing more than $70 million in a construction project for an 1800s-style town square. This project included a mercantile and many other stores that might have been found during Livingston’s previous life. Working with architects from Atlanta, the plan was to put the development where the town was originally located. This included the new roads being as close to the old ones as possible, and the buildings resembling what once stood there. What they did not expect was for the small town to continue growing and bring in a variety of restaurants and shops.

The first building most visitors see as soon as they pull onto the property is the Livingston Mercantile. The mercantile is just like the ones from days gone by and offers a little bit of everything for visitors. The store has a little bit of everything, including full-service gasoline, a specialty grocery section and even bait and tackle. The mercantile is full of provisions for everyday life and a fun stop for a little shopping.

Attached directly to the mercantile is The Gathering Restaurant. Inspired by the seasonal offerings of the Magnolia State, the rustic eatery offers blue plate specials for lunch,

made from scratch breakfast and innovative dishes for dinner.

One of the most amazing aspects of this restaurant is that the produce, dairy, livestock, free-range fowl and even the wood used for the grill are all supplied by the local farmers being of the most interesting farm-to-table restaurants in the state. In addition to serving amazing meals, the staff also caters family events, business meetings or any special occasion. They also cater wedding receptions on the square. Do not worry! Offsite lunch and catering are also available for the same events mentioned above and office parties. There is no business team in Mississippi that would not be excited about their delicious offerings. If you are planning a visit, The Livingston Mercantile and The Gathering Restaurant are located at 106 Livingston Church Road, in Flora, Mississippi.

Food is a huge focus of Livingston, but it is not just limited to eating. The Farmer’s Table Cooking School also gives customers a true farm-to-table experience with handson cooking classes, culinary demonstrations, wine tastings and receptions. However, this is a lot more than just a cooking experience. The classes are connected by an Eat Local philosophy, which provides a unique, memorable and fantastic hands-on experience that you will always remember. These cooking classes are based on socially connecting strangers and providing them with the answers of how they make the meals and what is included in them. With wine included, your experience will leave you with some great recipes and new friends. To find out more about the cooking class, visit them on Facebook or Instagram or call (601) 506-6821.

The Chapel at Livingston looks like it has been there for a hundred years and fits perfectly into the square. With

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 37

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merchants just a few feet away that can fill all the needs of a wedding party, you could be one of the lucky brides or grooms that say their vows here. A truly perfect setting for the perfect couple!

Livingston also has a variety of other shops around its square that can meet the need of any visitor. The Briar Patch has all the markings of a vintage bar during Prohibition, but this wonderful location cannot be kept a secret. Offering small plates, delicious cocktails and a huge selection of craft beer, this is the perfect spot for a drink after work. They are open on Thursdays from 4 pm to 10 pm, Fridays from 4 pm to 11 pm, and Saturdays from 12 pm to 11 pm.

Livingston Cellars has the unique ability to blend the old with the new as they have the well-known spirits that have been around for generations in stock as well as the new and upcoming wines. If they do not have it, they can get it for you, and their knowledgeable staff knows the ins and outs of every item on their shelves.

The Livingston Candy and Creamery will give you all the vibes of the old-time candy shops you remember from your childhood with sweet treats that span generations. In addition to rows and isles of any candy you can imagine, you can also get ice and shakes in a variety of flavors. You cannot walk into this sweet shop without a smile on your face.

It is always nice when a location explodes with popularity, but it is even better when they do not forget where they come from. The developers of Livingston have done just that.

Starting in May and ending July 4th weekend, the Livingston Local Market is back every Thursday. This event brings out the best of Livingston and the people there. Food, music, local vendors and family fun activities truly make this one of the more cherished events in central Mississippi. It all ends with a fireworks show and more entertainment to not only symbolize the end of the summer but to recognize that no matter how large or popular Livingston gets, they will always find their way back to their roots.

When you visit Livingston, you will feel as though you have stepped out of the hustle and bustle of life and are able to slow down a little and breathe. But this feeling does not have to be reserved for just when you visit. Livingston is always looking for new businesses and residents. In addition, this scenic and beautiful area of Madison County is always welcoming new neighbors, and this would be a special place for you to call home. Livingston should be on everyone’s bucket list to experience the new town with the old soul. edm

2020

MERIDIAN, MS

Eat. Drink.

Experience.

Award-winning chefs.

Master mixologists.

Experience the culinary tradition of the South like never before.

April 23, 2022 In Downtown Meridian Made possible by grants from

38 • April/May 2022

Tickets + Event Details: sippandsavor.com

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 39

M i ss i ss i ppi Far m er ’s M ar ket an d G en uine M i s s i s s i ppi Store: B r in gin g o ut t h e B est of t h e St ate

BY BRANDI PERRY

D

id you know that in Downtown Jackson, just outside the fairgrounds is a farmers’ market that offers more than 18,000 square feet? At the Mississippi Farmers Market, farmers from all over the state bring in their best farm-fresh produce. The all-weather building that the farmers market calls home was built with 32 stalls and roll-up doors.

Visitors feel as though they have stepped back in time when they journey through the market with any fruit or vegetable they can imagine, or the freshest milk and coffee money can buy. Growers and farmers of all sizes bring their bounty to the state capital.

40 • April/May 2022

Depending on the time of year and what is readily available, what visitors may find at the Farmers Market changes from month to month. It is obvious that the winter months may be a little slim on products, but you can guarantee hothouse tomatoes and delicious fresh cabbage. In April, there will be a huge increase in the product variety, including, green and pole beans, broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, kohlrabi and English peas. The month with the best production in the spring is May which brings blueberry, muscadines, peaches, plums, strawberries, sweet corn, pickling cucumbers, slicing cucumbers, English peas, Irish Potatoes and greenhouse tomatoes. For the summer, June leads the way with green, pole and butter beans, broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, cantaloupe, sweet corn, eggplant, turnip, mustard and collard greens, in addition to all types of pepper, squash and tomatoes.

In the dead of winter, many people assume nothing is sold at the farmers market, but that could not be any further from the truth. The Mississippi Farmers Market offers a very Merry Christmas that includes visits with Santa Claus, vendor giveaways and door prizes. The vendors and the Genuine Mississippi store offer gifts for that special someone in your life. In addition, you can also buy your Christmas tree from a Mississippi Tree Farm where Leyland cypress and Eastern red cedar are the stars of the show.

Many of the participants in the farmers’ market are a part of the Mississippi Certified Farmers Market program.

This program is a voluntary branding program created and administered by the Mississippi Department of Agriculture and Commerce to promote and identify a marketplace for Mississippi grown fruits, vegetables, plant materials and other products made and/or processed in the state. The primary objectives of a Mississippi Certified Market are to offer a diverse product selection, attract a large and repeating customer

base, and afford farmers a profitable location to sell produce and other goods. Certified farmers’ markets also allow those consumers the opportunity to interact with the farmers while providing them with the satisfaction of knowing the origin of their food and the opportunity to support the local economy.

If you are interested in showcasing your arts and crafts, processed foods or produce, applications can be found on the farmers’ market website, mdac.ms.gov/bureaus-departments/ farmers-market.

The Farmers Market is located at 929 High Street in Jackson and is open Saturdays from 8 am to 1 pm. Be sure to sign up for the What’s Fresh Newsletter to stay up to date on all the events and schedules of the Mississippi Farmers Market.

In the building with the Farmers Market is the Genuine Mississippi Store. The Mississippi Department of Agriculture and Commerce created Genuine MS to make it easy for people from around the state and visitors to Mississippi to find and enjoy products created or produced by Mississippi farmers and entrepreneurs.

Genuine Mississippi products fall into four categories: grown, raised, crafted and made. The grown section can include grain, grasses, fiber, horticulture, produce, nuts and even timber. Raised can include meat, aquaculture, seafood, dairy, bees, honey, livestock and eggs. Even more, the crafted section may include specialty foods, artisan products and pet food and pet items. Finally, the made products can be almost anything if the item has 51% or more is manufactured in the Magnolia State.

If you fall into any of these categories, you could be eligible to be a member of Genuine Mississippi and see your product soar with the benefits that come from being a member.

Members can use the Genuine Mississippi logo on products that qualify for the program, packaging and promotional materials. Additionally, members of Genuine Mississippi have a profile at genuinems.com, which contains information about the products, the stories about them, contact information for the members, links to their website and social media, and places to purchase the product. Additionally, the Mississippi

Department of Agriculture and Commerce program through advertising, social media, highlights in the Mississippi Market Bulletin, as well as through participation in special events to encourage consumers and buyers to purchase products made, grown, raised or crafted in Mississippi.

The Genuine Mississippi store is one of the coolest experiences any shopper can have. With honey, coffee, popcorn, jewelry, pepper jelly so much more, this is the perfect place for a unique gift or just a little something for yourself.

Take some time and follow the Genuine Mississippi Facebook, Twitter and Instagram pages for information on their hours and how to become a member of this amazing brand.

Andy Gipson, Commissioner of Agriculture and Commerce, was once quoted as saying, “Here in Mississippi, we are surrounded by many talented farmers, entrepreneurs, artisans and craftsmen. The Mississippi Department of Agriculture and Commerce created Genuine Mississippi to tell the stories of these hardworking, creative Mississippians and identify their unique products. We want consumers, not only across Mississippi but around the globe, to know what Mississippi has to offer.”

“Genuine Mississippi serves as our state branding program,” Gipson continued. “Members have the privilege to use the brand as a stamp of authenticity, a mark of pride ensuring the product is genuinely produced or created in our great state.”

This is one of the best ways to describe this amazing brand and storefront. For more information, please email GenuineMS@ mdac.ms.gov or call 601-359-1159. edm

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 41

From Mississippi to Beyond Bryant’s: A Southern Breakfast Icon

BY KATHY K. MARTIN

T

he South reigns supreme in so many culinary classics such as fried chicken, cornbread, grits and of course, the Southern-style breakfast.

At Bryant’s in Memphis, a true Southern breakfast beckons diners every Wednesday through Sunday with homemade biscuits and gravy, country ham, omelets and other Southern favorites.

The restaurant’s founding owners, Jimmy and Jane Bryant, grew up in Bruce until they moved to Memphis in 1968. They opened a Loeb’s Bar-B-Q franchise in the Parkway Village area and later moved the restaurant to its current location on Summer Avenue in 1977. Jimmy envisioned a homestyle breakfast menu to honor his mother’s homemade biscuits, which brought back memories of his childhood in Mississippi, said Richard Lucchesi, the restaurant’s general manager.

“Jimmy’s memories led him to want to share the food with others,” said Lucchesi. “It can be labor-intensive, but we

42 • April/May 2022

continue to this day to make by hand every biscuit we serve here at Bryant’s.”

The couple’s son, Phil Bryant, helped his sister, Kerrie Burton, with the family business for 22 years until he was diagnosed with a brain tumor and had to sell it last year to the Tashie Restaurant Group.

“It was a tough decision selling our family restaurant, not just because of the personal history, experiences and memories made, but because we didn’t want it to go into the wrong hands,” he said of the decision.

“We’re elated to have found the ‘right’ people who have purchased the restaurant with the full intention of maintaining the heart and soul of Bryant’s, which many Memphians have come to know and love.”

Bryant’s re-opened last April with just a few

adjustments, said Judd Tashie, the group’s co-owner. They optimized all the equipment, rehired all the former employees and reprinted the menus.

“That was the key,” he said, “Same people that were making the food before are doing it again. And the same wait staff, the same people taking care of customers, are back.” In fact, most of the employees have been with Bryant’s for over 10 years, with some for over 20.

The most popular dishes are, of course, the homemade biscuits and gravy, as well as buttermilk pancakes (choose from plain, banana-strawberry, Nutella supreme, chocolate chip, pecan, banana or blueberry), omelets (countless options), cinnamon rolls, hash brown casserole and country ham. Another favorite, said Lucchesi, is the Philly cheesesteak that comes as a sandwich, biscuit or omelet. He said that they plan to introduce lunch specials on the menu soon too.

Unfortunately, Bryant passed away the month after the re-opening. The new owners honored his memory with a donation to support local dog rescue programs such as All 4s Rescue League, a cause as close to his heart as the restaurant.

His sister said her brother was a character, just like her dad. “He had a fun personality and was a big kidder.” She has continued the family legacy by helping at the restaurant’s counter every Sunday. Memories still surround her. Memories of growing up

and working there her whole life with her mom, dad, brother and sister. “People still come up to me and tell me that they miss my brother.”

Bryant’s maintains this family atmosphere with many regular patrons who are on a first-name basis with employees.

Lucchesi calls it a friendly, old-school diner with large portions of food and many repeat customers, including police officers and tradespeople who appreciate that it opens at 5 am. The restaurant continues to garner local and regional accolades as a favorite breakfast restaurant.

The Southern breakfast legacy continues at Bryant’s. edm

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 43

{ mississippi made }

Grumpy Man Foods

T

BY SUSAN MARQUEZ

here’s nothing like an excellent product that comes with a colorful backstory. Grumpy Man Foods has quite a colorful backstory, found on the company’s website, which explains that Grumpy Man’s beginnings go back to the 1700s.

According to the legend, the Spanish landed on the shores of what is now St. Augustine, Florida, in search of magnificent riches. Little did they know they had brought the real treasure with them in the form of a tiny pepper called a datil. As they came upon the Mississippi River basin, a single pepper fell unnoticed from the pocket of a brave Conquistador. One day, a grumpy man was farming behind his Mississippi cabin when he came upon a strange seed on the ground – a seed from the very pepper dropped by the Spanish soldier. The Grumpy Man planted the seed in the corner of his garden, and the next day he awoke to see that a bush appeared where he had just planted the seed! He plucked a single pepper from the bush and popped it into his mouth. The flavors filled him with delight, and he began making delicious salsas and pepper jellies to share with his friends and family.

Nathan Sandford is anything but a grumpy man, but he does run Grumpy Man foods. While the legend of Grumpy Man may be a bit exaggerated (if not entirely made up), the products are the real deal. Nathan says the story is true in that

44 • April/May 2022

it all started with a pepper. The datil pepper is a small, hot and flavorful pepper. “My parents started playing around with it

in the late 1980s and early 1990s,” says Nathan. “They had an idea of doing a salsa company. They even went as far as talking with the folks at Mississippi State University about how to make their salsa shelfstable.” But the only shelf the salsa saw was the shelves of friends and family members who were gifted with the salsa each Christmas. “Like a lot of products, people loved it, and they wanted it, but it wasn’t known if people would be willing to pay for it.”

Nathan graduated from the University of Southern Mississippi with a degree in economics. After trying a couple of things, his dad asked if he would like to do anything with the salsa. Nathan began making the salsa in Purvis, where it is still made today. “We got the product into the Hattiesburg farmers market, then a few other markets and festivals,” Nathan recalls. “That helped us figure out our price point before we got into Corner Market and Ramey’s supermarkets.”

The company expanded into making pepper jellies as well. The original name of the company was, perhaps, “too clever,” says Nathan. His father, Darrell Sandford, pulled out some old photos, and one was a picture of his dad wearing his grandfather’s old hat. “He had a grumpy look on his face, and we kind of ran with that. We played with a few names before landing on Grumpy Man. We had a painting done, and that’s been our logo ever since.”

The salsa recipe is still the original recipe developed by Nathan’s parents. There are three levels of heat, mild, medium

and hot. “I’m partial to the hot,” says Nathan. When they decided to expand the product line to include pepper jellies, Nathan developed the recipes. “There has been a lot of trial and error, with some being hits, and others not so much.” The recipes are often seasonal, such as peach salsa, pineapple salsa and cranberry salsa. “I have also developed recipes that tie into events where we will be selling our products. For example, when we did the Blueberry Festival in Poplarville, I developed a blueberry pepper jelly.”

Nathan says he likes the hotter pepper jellies, like the one they make with ghost peppers. “We do a regular ghost pepper jelly that is hot and flavorful; then there is a ghost x2 that is too hot for me.” The Grumpy Man logo is often altered for the product, such as adding sunglasses and a Hawaiian shirt on the Grumpy Man for the pineapple pepper jelly. Their graphic artist also made the Grumpy Man a skeleton for the ghost pepper jelly.

The best way to enjoy the pepper jellies, according to Nathan, is heaped on a block of cream cheese and served with crackers.

“We also like to use the peach and pineapple pepper jellies to slow-roast a pork tenderloin.” The jellies are also a great addition to charcuterie boards.

There is more on the horizon for Grumpy Man Foods. “We are working with Mississippi producers to create a line of quail eggs and honey,” Nathan says. All Grumpy Man products can be ordered online through their website at www.grumpymanfoods.com. edm eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 45

{ restaurant spotlight }

Jia: Pan-Asian at the Beau Rivage

BY JULIAN BRUNT

B

iloxi has had a vibrant Vietnamese community since the late 1970s.

It was first centered in the Point Cadet area, the eastern tip of the Biloxi peninsula, the heart of the old seafood district. Hurricane Katrina displaced many families and businesses, but still many families and businesses remain, although dispersed around Harrison County.

The largest Asian market in the state, the Lee International Market is located on Howard Avenue in Biloxi, there is still a scattering of good Vietnamese restaurants in Biloxi, Ocean Springs and D’Iberville, and there are several Buddhist and Catholic churches to be found as well.

For several years Jia, the Asian themed restaurant at the Beau Rivage Casino and Resort, has been popular in the Vietnamese community and visitors from as well, but this well-known restaurant has just undergone an extensive remodel and enlargement and is gaining a reputation as the most popular Vietnamese restaurant in south Mississippi.

The remodel opened the front of the restaurant, removing the bamboo wall and walk-through fountain, giving an open and airy feeling and adding additional seating. Perhaps the most important addition is the noodle bar, located just adjacent to the popular sushi bar, both of which guard the front of the restaurant. Each component of Jia has its menu, sushi bar, noodle bar and main restaurant, so there is a broad selection of Asian-

46 • April/May 2022

themed dishes to choose from. Teppanyaki tables were added to the main restaurant as well, with Japanese-style grills for tableside preparation of your favorite dish.

Executive chef Kristian Wade told me that a noodle bar was in the works almost two years ago, but Covid delayed its opening. I have been anxiously awaiting the addition to the restaurant and was delighted when it finally opened. Chef Wade said, “Coastal Mississippi has a strong Vietnamese influence and we have infused local and Eastern culture culinary flavors to develop the Jia menu by delivering the finest product available while also focusing on simplicity and letting the food speak

for itself.” And after my first dining experience at Jia since the reimaging, I think Chef Wade and the executive room chef, Jason Carlisle, nailed it.

I love an open kitchen, and sitting at the noodle bar, watching the chef make the pho I just ordered was a delightful experience. The noodle bar menu consists of five pho choices, five bun (rice vermicelli noodles paired with pork, beef, chicken or shrimp) and five banh mi, the famous Vietnamese sandwich on a French baguette.

I tried the combination pho (pronounced “fuh,” by the way) and always am reminded what the great and much-missed chef Anthony Bourdain said about pho, calling it “a steaming bowl of goodness.” It is an apt description of this amazing dish, which the Vietnamese eat any time of the day. What makes pho so good is the aromatic broth that is its base. Made from roasted beef bones, this amazing stock takes 12 hours to make and is seasoned with star anise, ginger, coriander, cardamon and fish sauce. There are many different pho recipes, using rare beef, meatballs, brisket and even chicken, but if you get the stock wrong, nothing will redeem it.

I also sampled two sushi rolls, the Atom Bomb, made with spicy tuna, topped with masago (smelt roe), spicy mayo and sriracha. I also ordered the Dragon roll, which is a California roll, topped with whole eel and eel sauce. Both were great, but the freshness was astonishing and was the best eel that I have ever had. The sushi bar, which I think of as the best in south Mississippi, has almost a dozen rolls to choose from and ten sushi options.

I also tried two offerings from the Sharing and Salad menu, both of which were delightful. The rare beef in lime juice (a Vietnamese style ceviche), with fried garlic, pickled sweet onion, peppers, peanuts and prawn crackers, was tender, flavorful and just delicious. The fried chicken wings, with chilis garlic and lime, were surprisingly crispy and moist, as well.

Everything that we tried was just off the charts, so when selections from the main menu began to arrive, and we found them even better than what had come before, I was left without words to properly describe them. The caramelized pork belly served with eggs simmered in the same sauce, young coconut juice and fish sauce was delightfully spicy and tender beyond belief, falling-apart tender, but still maintaining a pleasant and fatty texture. The dish that really blew me away was the roasted black cod. I do not think that from the description on the menu I would have ordered this one, but like everything we sampled, the menu did not give a hint of the intensity of flavors and the creativity of the dish. The cod was served with bean curd, pineapple, cucumber and nuoc mam (a Vietnamese dipping sauce), which sound simple, but the complexity of flavors and textures was stunningly good. The fish was perfectly cooked, tender and pulling away from the bone easily, but still pleasantly firm. This is one of the best things I have had to eat in years.

Looking over the menu after our dinner, there were a few items I would like to come back and try. The salmon belly with chiles looked amazing, as did the lemongrass grilled pork chops, caramelized duck and chicken, and the salt and pepper lobster.

Jia is an extraordinary restaurant run by a chef that is at the very top of his game. Hats off to Chef Jason Carlisle and his team for an extraordinary evening. If you are any kind of foodie at all, Jia has got to be on your bucket list. edm eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 47

{ from the bookshelf }

“Big Bad Breakfast”

by John Currence Article by Paige McKay-White

W

e all know the saying—breakfast is the most important meal of the day. As Southerners, we know how to do breakfast right. Oxford native Chef John Currence has elevated breakfast to an art form with his creative breakfast recipes. In this “fun, festive and highly caffeinated ode to breakfast,” Big Bad Breakfast includes breakfast fare that can be served any time of day and is sure to impress the taste buds.

Start your morning off with recipes from “The Welcome Basket,” a chapter full of sweet breakfast treats like Sausage Cinnamon rolls, Buttermilk Cake Doughnuts (recipe included here), Honey Buns, Blueberry Muffin Tops, Monkey Bread and Banana Pecan Coffee Cake. These are perfect for those who prefer a sweet versus a savory breakfast. You could even serve them as dessert.

The next chapter highlights the breakfast king—eggs. “The Incredible, Edible, Omnipresent Egg” section includes tips on how to perfect each form of egg and which tools are best for each. Recipes include Big Bad Breakfast Egg Bake, North Mississippi Eggs Benedict, Breakfast Quesadilla, Chorizo Migas, Double Oyster Hangover Fry, and Spicy Boudin and Poached Eggs. The next chapter is also focused on eggs, specifically Omelets and Frittatas. Choose from recipes like the Chili and Cheese Omelet, Shrimp Fried Rice Omurice, Creole Skillet Scramble, Pepper and Chorizo Frittatas and a Low Country Cast-Iron Skillet Scramble.

For more sweet options, the next chapter features “Pancakes, Waffles, and Crepes.” It includes classics like Silver Dollar and Short Stack Buttermilk Pancakes and Belgian Waffles, as well as unique options like Peanut Butter and Banana Pancakes, Hoecakes, Brioche French Toast, Homemade Pop-Tarts, Toasted Oatmeal Pancakes, and Shrimp and Pickled Onion Crepes.

For those who love pancakes or bacon and eggs for dinner, Big Bad Breakfast has you covered in the “Breakfast For Dinner” chapter. This chapter includes heavier dinner options like Shrimp and Grits, Shrimp Gravy Biscuit Sundae, 48 • April/May 2022

Crawfish Etouffee, Oyster Pot Pie, Breakfast Succo-hash and Huevos Cocineros. All of these recipes are not only great for dinner, but you could also serve them as a heavier breakfast or brunch meal.

A breakfast cookbook wouldn’t be complete without cereal, and the store-bought stuff is often processed and filled with sugar and other additives. “Cereals, Grains, and Other Pseudo-Virtuous Things” includes better-for-you options, such as Homemade Vanilla Granola, Homemade Frosted Cornflakes, Grits and Collard Souffle, Italian Sausage Risotto and Homemade Crispy Rice “Elvis” Treats.

The next chapter might be one of the best: “Breakfast Sandwiches.” Currence describes breakfast sandwiches as having “healing powers,” and with these recipes, he might be right. Sandwiches include Fried Chicken Cathead, Monte Cristo, Egg and Rice Burrito, Chicken and Sausage Pancake Sandwich, Grilled Ham and Pimento Cheese Sandwich, and Egg Salad. These are also a great option for any time of day or night.

With all these meals, “Sides, Condiments, Meats, and Extras” are a must. Breakfasty side dishes and extras include Garlic Cheese Grits, Cayenne Pepper Sauce, Louisiana Satsuma Jelly, Black Pepper Honey, Sausage Gravy, Apple Butter and several other breakfast table staples.

Last but not least, no breakfast or brunch would be complete without something to sip on, whether it’s alcoholic or not. Sip on libations like a Grapefruit Mimosa, Big Bad Breakfast Bloody Mary, Djen Frappe, Eggnog, The Vacation Wife, Peach Lassi, Donkey Punch and The Idiot’s Champagne Cocktail. Sometimes, you just need something a little more than a cup of coffee with your breakfast, and this chapter has a drink for any occasion.

Whether you’re looking for something new to spice up breakfast, or you’re hosting any kind of breakfast or brunchthemed event, any of the many recipes in Big Bad Breakfast are sure to be a hit. You can find a copy at Amazon, Walmart, Target, Barnes & Noble and Square Books in Oxford. edm

Buttermilk Cake Doughnuts Makes 15-18 • • • • • • • • • •

Vegetable oil, for frying 1 cup all-purpose flour 2 teaspoons granulated sugar 1 teaspoon baking powder 1/2 teaspoon ground ginger 1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg 1/4 teaspoon baking soda 1/2 cup buttermilk 1 egg Cinnamon sugar, confectioners’ sugar, or vanilla glaze for topping (optional, recipe follows)

1. Pour 3 inches of oil into a deep skillet or countertop fryer and heat over medium heat to 350 degrees F. Turn the heat to low and hold at this temperature.

2. To make the doughnuts, whisk together the flour, granulated sugar, baking powder, ginger, nutmeg and baking soda into a large bowl, then make a well in the center. When the oil is hot, whisk together the buttermilk and egg in a separate bowl, then pour into the well, stirring gently until combined.

8 to 10 at a time, being careful not to crown the pan. Fry until golden brown on all sides (they should turn over by themselves as they cook), 2 to 3 minutes.

4. Remove from the oil with a slotted spoon. Drain the doughnuts on paper towels, then roll in cinnamon sugar or confectioners’ sugar, or drizzle with the glaze while the doughnuts are still hot. These are best served immediately, but will still represent well for a couple hours at room temperature.

Vanilla Glaze, optional • • • •

2 cups confectioners’ sugar 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract 2 to 4 tablespoons whole milk Cinnamon sugar, confectioners’ sugar, or vanilla glaze for topping (optional, recipe follows)

1. To make the glaze, stir together the confectioners’ sugar, vanilla and 2 to 4 tablespoons milk until the glaze reaches the consistency of heavy cream.

3. Drop the batter by rounded tablespoons into the hot oil, eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 49

50 • April/May 2022

{ raise your glass }

Classic Mint Julep

BY REBECCA FENDING

W

ith spring officially here and a long, (probably) hot summer ahead, many of us may be looking for a refreshing and easy cocktail to serve. Whether it’s for guests or just for yourself on a sunny day, a classic mint julep is just what’s needed in order to power through the heat.

The mint julep is said to have been born in Virginia during the 1700 or 1800s. Typically enjoyed during or after breakfast before the day really started to warm up, Virginian socialites made this cocktail with rum or brandy. Nowadays, the drink is most commonly concocted with whiskey or bourbon to further differentiate it from its cousin, the mojito.

Mississippi is home to a number of distilleries that produce award-winning bourbon; Cathead, Crittenden and Wonderbird Spirts, to name a few. I highly recommend fixing this cocktail with a Magnolia made spirit, though we promise not to think less of you if you stick with a favorite out of state bourbon. edm

Image from Park Ranger John

CLASSIC MINT JULEP • 4 to 5 mint sprigs, leaves only • 2 sugar cubes, or ½ ounce of simple syrup • 2 ½ ounces Crittenden’s Cut Above Bourbon Whiskey, or Cathead’s Old Soul Bourbon Whiskey • Mint sprig, for garnish

2. Add your bourbon and fill the glass with crushed ice. Stir until glass is frosted or very cold to the touch 3. Garnish with extra mint and enjoy!

1. Place mint and sugar in the bottom of your preferred glass. Muddle until sugar is dissolved and mint is very fragrant.

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 51

Recipe Index Mini Creamy Chicken and Brie

Spring Orzo Pasta Salad with

with Lingonberry Pies, 13

Dijon Herb Vinaigrette, 28

Strawberry and Ginger Champagne Spritzers, 22

Buttermilk Cake Doughnuts, 49

Tater Tot Ham and Cheese Breakfast Casserole, 22

Classic Mint Julep, 51

Southern Tomato Pie, 22

Asparagus, Tomato and Feta Spring Salad, 54

Orange Cardamom Madeleines, 28

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Asparagus, Tomato and Feta Spring Salad With asparagus in season, April and May is the time to enjoy this spring vegetable. Whether it’s oven roasted or used in a cold and refreshing salad like this, asparagus is a great way to add more green to your plate.

Ingredients: • 2 lbs fresh asparagus (medium thickness), ends trimmed, remaining diced into 2-inch pieces • 1 (10.5 oz) pkg. grape tomatoes, halved • 2/3 cup chopped walnuts, toasted • 4 oz feta cheese, crumbled (scant 1 cup) • Balsamic vinegar or glaze, to taste 1. Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Add asparagus to boiling water and allow to boil until tender crisp, about 4 - 5 minutes.

2. Meanwhile, fill a medium mixing bowl with ice and cold water. Drain and immediately transfer asparagus to ice water, let rest about 10 seconds then drain asparagus well.

3. Transfer to a bowl with tomatoes and walnuts. Drizzle balsamic over top and toss lightly.

4. Sprinkle over half of the feta then plate and top with remaining feta. Refrigerate for 2 hours before serving.

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Eat Drink Mississippi wants to feature your recipes in future issues. Please send recipes to info@ eatdrinkmississippi.com, or mail them to PO Box 1663 Madison 39130.

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Till We Eat Again

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Jay Reed, a graduate of Ole Miss, lives in Starkville where he is a pharmacist by day and a freelance food writer by day off.

He is a member of the Southern Foodways Alliance, co-hosts two podcasts and blogs at www.eatsoneate.com.

A Mother’s Day Tribute, Of Sorts

I

BY JAY REED

’ve been listening to a series of podcasts recently, interviews of restaurant owners and chefs around the country, and it seems like most of them have one thing in common: the influence of their mothers. Some of them stood at her elbow and watched as she cooked, taking in the measurements by sight and feel (because who writes that stuff down?).

Others got their hands in the dough, stirred the pot or cooked dinner for the family while mom worked. At least one wasn’t in the kitchen at all as a kid, but when the time came to open the bakery, it was Mama who came to help get them started. And then there was the one whose pit-master mom sent her to the stockyard on a bike with a basket to pick up a hog. A live hog.

In my childhood kitchen, I mostly ate. My mother did a lot of cooking for our family.

My dad had a few specialties: anything on the grill, lasagna and Crock-Pot barbecue. But it was Mama that held forth in the kitchen. Her dishes were more Betty Crocker than Julia Child, but she knew how to cook from scratch.

For breakfast, if we had biscuits, they were homemade, long after her own mother abandoned that practice and settled in with Hungry Jack. Daddy liked his biscuits crunchy, so she’d always leave a couple on the stove a little longer for him. Leftover biscuits were sliced the next day, then buttered and toasted, sometimes with cheese. Cinnamon toast was a big favorite. I don’t know if she’s ever poached an egg or made a genuine omelet, but we ate eggs pretty much every other way. When bacon bits came around—not the real ones, but the soy ones that leave an un-baconish aftertaste—they made regular appearances in our scrambled eggs and anything else we could talk her into. Her bran muffins are the stuff of legend: unappreciated by me in those days but beloved now. They even made it into a local cooking show a few years ago.

Lunch might have been grilled cheese sandwiches with chicken and stars soup or a can of Spaghetti-O’s. (I was good with that.) Often, we got PB&J or pimento cheese, sometimes on bread, sometimes on crackers. She’s still partial to a meal of peanut butter crackers and a Coke. Tuna salad was pretty simple most of the time: tuna, Miracle Whip and sweet pickle relish at minimum. Usually chopped boiled eggs. Every now and then, she’d get crazy and put some chopped apples in it, and if she wanted it all to herself, pecans. No matter how much my brother and I have played with tuna and pimento cheese recipes over the years, hers remain the standard-bearers and always appear in her fridge when little brother comes from North Carolina.

A few of my dinner memories are very specific. For a long time, she’d put leftover vegetables from dinner in a container in the freezer, and when the container was full, it would become the base of vegetable soup. We had “barbecue” pork chops baked in homemade barbecue sauce, which I ladled over white rice and any other vegetable on the plate. Special occasions (and sometimes in between) warranted fried chicken in the electric skillet. In a pinch, she was not averse to serving Kroger brand tongue-scalding turkey pot pies.

When I went to college, she made sure I had all the basic recipes written down on my own set of index cards. Most are still in the Longaberger recipe basket she gave me.

Hamburger Beef Stroganoff (with a “little garlic salt.”) Aunt Sybil’s Meatloaf (my favorite meatloaf ever.) Chicken Casserole (think poppy seed chicken without the poppy seeds—we still eat it on the regular.) Tuna Stuff (canned tuna and English peas in white sauce over toast - the only way she could get me to willingly eat English peas.)

As for in-the-kitchen mentorship, our presence was neither required nor prohibited.

Brother and I were in and out. We watched but didn’t take notes. We might sit a little closer to the action when sweets were being made, so we could be there to lick the beaters, but generally, we were observers. Our mealtime jobs were to set the table and fix the tea.

We have both called home from college, from abroad and from across state lines to get instructions or advice on certain dishes. But though we rode bicycles far and wide across our town, we were never asked to bring home a live animal for dinner. edm

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 55

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