GOOD
NEWS NEWS
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7
11 April 2017
De Kelders – Take a walk on the wild side
magine our coastline around 20 000 years ago when it wasn't a coastline at all. When the last Ice Age culminated in a global deep freeze and, with a vast amount of freshwater locked up in the polar ice sheets, the sea level dropped to such an extent that the shoreline lay several kilometres from its present position. A coastal Garden of Eden During these inhospitable conditions, scientists speculate that human movement may have been restricted to the more temperate coastal environments of Southern Africa such as those found at De Kelders ( ‘the caves’), where numerous expansive caverns had formed in its porous limestone foundation. Not only did this coastal region provide an abundance of fish and shellfish, but also shelter from the icy winds and storms. In addition, as the sea levels receded, it became particularly attractive due to the formation of freshwater springs along the newly exposed coastal gradients. Formed over millions of years by the ocean’s tides and crashing waves, these “living caves” were home to Middle Stone Age people and later, when the earth started warming around 10 000 years ago and the shoreline gradually returned to more or less where it is today, Late Stone Age people known as the Khoikhoi. Klipgat Heritage Site Of the many limestone caves found at De Kelders, Klipgat Cave is one of our most valuable cultural and historical sites – one that has sheltered early humans for millennia. Excavations at Klipgat in 1969 revealed 2 000-year-old pottery, stone and bone artefacts and the remains of shellfish, fish and other animals. Deeper excavations in 1992 uncovered even more remarkable archaeological treasures, including bones and artefacts dating back an estimated 70 000 years, revealing skulls recognisable as modern Homo Sapiens. Klipgat (‘stone hole’) was named after a limestone proscenium arch looking out onto Walker Bay, forming a remarkable rock ‘window’ that frames a spectacular view of the bay. The site is situated in the Walker Bay Nature Reserve which is managed by CapeNature and stretches all the way
The De Kelders coastline near Gansbaai is dotted with several limestone caves that bear witness to the fascinating history of the area, dating back millennia to the last Ice Age and the earliest ancestors of our species. JACQUELINE DOWLING and her family have visited the caves and invite those with a sense of adventure to put on their hiking boots and set off on a not-to-be-missed experience. to the Klein River estuary, covering about 1 000 ha with an unspoilt coastline of 17 km. The reserve has a beautiful long beach, known as ‘Die Plaat’, with white sands and rocky limestone outcrops. Klipgat is accessible to the public from the gatehouse at the entrance to the reserve about 3 km from the village of De Kelders. There is a small parking area where visitors can leave their vehicle, and a series of steep steps down to the protected cove, with a viewing boardwalk leading to the caves and information boards detailing the historical significance of the site.
the 7 km long Duiwelsgat Hiking Trail, which starts at Gansbaai Harbour and forms part of the greater two-day Perlemoen Trail. The trail starts just west of the harbour at the caravan park, where the original town was founded around a fresh-water spring that used to be frequented by geese (‘ganse’ in Afrikaans – hence the name of Gansbaai). Steep steps (above) lead down to the cove where Klipgat Cave can be found (below).
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Not only did this coastal region provide an abundance of fish and shellfish, but also shelter from the icy winds and storms
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Sheep bones found at Klipgat indicate that the indigenous Khoikhoi, more accurately referred to as the Quena, were herding sheep and possibly cattle as long as 2 000 years ago. They thrived in this coastal region up until the 18th century when the first white settlers arrived. Around 1713, a devastating smallpox epidemic nearly wiped out the entire local population. As their social structure and traditional way of life was gradually eroded by colonial expansion, the Quena’s only means of existence during the 19th century was to become farm labourers or fishermen. The fish traps they built around the Danger Point Peninsula can still be seen at several sites along the coast. Duiwelsgat Hiking Trail Visitors who are feeling more energetic can also embark on
Klipgat (’hole in the rock’) was named after a limestone arch framing the view of Walker Bay.
The chambers of Drupkelder contain remnants of stalactites and stalagmites.
En route to Klipgat, the trail follows a coastal path that will bring you to the delightful Stanford Cove, which is perfect for picnics and safe swimming. This is the place where Quena descendants started settling around 1811, building the first permanent fishing cottages next to the cove and founding the fishing culture of Gansbaai. The cove was also used as a harbour in the 1840s by Sir Robert Stanford to transport his fresh farm produce to the Cape. Drupkelder Along the trail, hikers will come across several caverns that penetrate deep into the rock under the houses of De Kelders. One of the most interesting is the Drupkelder (‘drip cave’), the only freshwater cave on the coast of South Africa. If you’d like to investigate this cave, it is best to do so with a guide. Drupkelder is well worth a visit, especially for its fascinating stalagmites and stalactites. Regrettably, most have been removed over the years by souvenir hunters which is why the cave is now protected. De Kelders derives its domestic water from the natural spring that formed this ancient feature in the coastal limestone, and the water in the cave runs at a constant 60 litres per second, forming freshwater rock pools that were also used for swimming. You enter through a long narrow passageway before the Drupkelder opens into a series of chambers in which the remnants of what must have once been spectacular stalactites and stalagmites can be seen. According to local info, farmers in the area knew
about the existence of Drupkelder as far back as 1776, and that intrepid traveller Lady Anne Barnard recorded her visit in 1798 in her diary as follows: “The pointed drup stones descended from the roof in great numbers, and sometimes met with others which had risen from the ground to meet them… the largest piece of petrifcation is a pillar as thick as a man's arm… bought by a Mr Cloete of Constantia for 1 000 Rijksdaalders.” The view from this cave, across the bay, is equally breathtaking. During the winter months, pods of southern right whales can be seen lolling in the swell. The next two caves along the trail en route to Klipgat are Gideon’s Cave and Duiwelsgat, which entail some agile climbing over slippery rocks. Gideon's cave is well hidden and you have to crawl in at low tide, which is an exhilarating experience but not for the fainthearted. The hole of the devil The name of Duiwelsgat (‘hole of the devil’) is said to have originated from ‘Duiwegat’ (pigeon hole) for the many rock pigeons that nest in the cave. The ‘hole’ refers to the collapsed ceiling of the cave which formed a chasm 20 m deep. To prevent livestock from falling into the hole, a circular stonewall was built from which you can look down into the cave, with the waves crashing against the opening far down at the bottom – a thrilling sight but not recommended for those with acrophobia! If you are feeling energetic, you can climb down to the base of the cave at low tide and also marvel at the view looking up. The final leg of the hike is along the cliffs covered in limestone-rock vegetation above Die Plaat, before the descent down to Klipgat. This is a one-way trail, so remember to leave another vehicle at the Walker Bay Reserve parking area or make arrangements to be picked up and taken back to your starting point at Gansbaai. For more information contact Gansbaai Tourism on 028 384 1439 or info@gansbaaiinfo.com or visit www.gansbaaiinfo.com For a guided cave tour, contact Grootbos Private Nature Reserve on 028 384 8008.