04. David Craig crowned Northern Ireland’s ‘Best Male Stylist’
06. IHF Gents Team Ireland place 2nd at OMC European Cup - Richard Lalor
08. What will be new in 2016? - Frank Hackett
12. Short Courses at the Dublin School of Barbering 16. Representing Ireland at Wahl British Barber of the Year 2015 - Paul Mac Special
22. An Irish Barber Abroad - Padraig Whelehan
28. The Next Generation of Style - Colm McGuinness
30. A High Quality Barbering Experience in Carrick-On-Shannon - Kevin Fitzsimons
32. A Traditional Shop for Tallaght - Vinny McEvoy & Michael Devine
34. Embracing the Era of Social Media in the Barbershop Setting - Liane Murray
www.irishbarbersjournal.com
IRISH BARBERS JOURNAL VOLUME 3 NOVEMBER ‘15 Brought to you by Dublin School of Barbering www.dublinschoolofbarbering.com Credits Editor/Designer: Mary Fleming Supervisor: Padraig Carr Cover Photo: Paul Mac Special Cover Design: Prohibition Design Co. Inside Cover & Back Cover Photos: Molly O’Neill Hair: Paul Mac Special Model: Hugo Santos, Vanity Vague Model Agency Our sincerest thanks to the following contributors (in order of appearance): David Craig, The Derry Barber Company Richard Lalor, Platinum Barbers Frank Hackett, Retro Barbershop Paul Mac Special, The Crop Shop Molly O’Neill, Photographer Hugo Santos, Vanity Vague Model Agency Padraig Whelehan, Brother Wolf Colm McGuinness, Calvin Arthur Barbers Kevin Fitzsimons, A Clip Around the Ear Vinny McEvoy, Empire Barbershop Michael Devine, Empire Barbershop Liane Murray, Barber David Branagan, The Man Cave Felipe Santiago, Santiago Barbers IBJ \\\ 3
award to my team of skilled barbers in The Derry Barber Company who have shared my passion for excellence in the traditional craft of barbering and male grooming. I am delighted that my endeavors have been recognised in this way and to be an ambassador for this historic and extremely rewarding profession. ”
David Craig Crowned Northern Ireland’s Best Male Stylist 2015 David Craig, Master Barber and founder of The Derry Barber Company, located on 22 Great James Street, Derry was awarded the prestigious title of ‘Best Male Stylist’ at the inaugural Northern Ireland Hair and Beauty Awards held in the Europa Hotel on September 13th. Thousands of nominations flooded in from across the country in a race to be crowned the best in the hair and beauty industry. David was the only barber and male stylist in the North West nominated for ‘Best Barber’ and ‘Male Stylist’ 2015 and he fought off tough competition from many of Northern Ireland’s best. Speaking following his award, David said: “I am really humbled and honoured to be presented with the prestigious title of
Northern Ireland’s Male Stylist 2015 and to bring this coveted title to Derry. Aside from opening my traditional barbershop in 2013, this award has to been one of the highlights of my career to date.
“I am delighted that my endeavors have been recognised in this way and to be an ambassador for this historic and extremely rewarding profession. ”
I have been barbering for 25 years now in Derry and I would like to dedicate this award to all of my loyal customers who have allowed me to practice my passion professionally on a daily basis. I would also like to dedicate this
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The glitzy event endeavoured to show appreciation for those in the industry that leave us looking and feeling fantastic; from barbershops and salons to the talented individuals who work within them. As well as the awards, the evening raised awareness and funds for their official charity partner, the Make a Wish Foundation. Irfan Younis of event organisers Creative Oceanic commented: “We have had a fantastic response from the public who voted in their thousands to ensure that their favourite hair and beauty gurus made the shortlist. The response from Northern Ireland has been amazing considering it is the first year of the awards. We would like to wish David Craig the best of luck in his future career.” This is the third in a list of regional and national awards that the Derry Barber Company have received since opening. Last year David and Niall O’ Neill were awarded with the title ‘King of Wet Shaves’. Jake Gallagher also placed 5th in the The British Barber Association’s Classic Master Barbers title. Commenting on the accolades David said: “We are barbers simply because we love what we do. Whilst these awards are a very welcome addition, we gain most job satisfaction from crafting a quality male haircut, developing a lasting and strong relationship with the customer in our chair, and the feeling at the end of the day that we have made men of all ages look and feel good about themselves.” Further information on David and The Derry Barber Company can be found on www.thederrybarbercompany. com or by finding them on Facebook, Twitter and Instagram.
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IHF GENTS TEAM TEAM IRELAND PLACE 2ND AT OMC EUROPEAN CUP Richard Lalor of Platinum Barbers, Swords spoke to us about his experience. How was it when you arrived at the competition? Was the atmosphere friendly or was there an air of serious competition about the place? After arriving at the Expo centre, Porte de Versailles, in Paris we were ready and confident in our own minds that everything was running according to plan. Being the new IHF barber team Ireland however, we still felt the weight of expectation to deliver and to prove to ourselves by doing so. Individually we have competed in large scale national competitions, yet we were truly overwhelmed by the size of the event. With 36 OMC member countries competing we were surrounded by teams of models and competitors, the atmosphere was buzzing and it hit us as soon as we stepped through the doors. Greeting us in the holding room was Maeve O’Healy Hearte (founder of team Ireland for both ladies and men). The overwhelmingly positive reaction to the work we had done and the positive feedback was a welcome and much needed confidence boost. How was the competition structured - could you describe in detail the processes that you went through? Each competing country was
allocated a separate holding area; needless to say, everyone was working to keep all of the finished looks under wraps until the last minute. We spent most of our time concentrating on the finishing touches for the model’s looks and clothing, waiting somewhat apprehensively to be called out for the respective categories. Whilst walking into the main arena the whole place just came alive, engulfing us with cameras! What was truly overwhelming were the spectators from all over the world taking the time out to ask us questions about the model’s looks, where we had bought our clothes, ideas for inspiration etc. This was a welcome distraction. As I mentioned, we have all done a lot of national competitions but sometimes going out onto the floor, even just in front of a crowd of onlookers, can feel like a judging panel in itself. So, the warmth of the crowd certainly helped to alleviate the building feeling of anticipation ever so slightly. Taking the time to explain to people that a lot of our clothes were bespoke custom made by each competitor to convey specifically what we wanted to showcase, really made the effort we put in feel worthwhile. During the competition, did you have a good feeling about
your chances of placing or was it all very much to play for until the very end? Honestly, the initial response we got from the spectators did make us think that we might be in for something. However, after seeing the competing countries showcase their work, coupled with the reactions from the judges, it did all begin to throw us and left us a bit unsure on how it was all going to turn out. When you placed second, what thoughts went through your head? We went into the awards ceremony with a very realistic, perhaps somewhat resigned, approach. We were simply enjoying the moment and honestly had not built ourselves up for anything. As soon as we saw other countries placing 5th, 4th then 3rd, we really didn’t think we had 2nd. At this point any sort of hope we had was starting to fade a little. When that Irish flag flashed across the screen announcing the overall 2nd place, I think we just froze for a split second we still didn’t beleive it was us. It was just an intense rush of feelings, complete elation mixed with total shock. After such a mentally intense and emotional Summer of constant training every Sunday with little or no time off, between running the businesses and fitting in training around everything else we were juggling - I think we all broke down! We had made Irish barbering history with the inspired guidance of our fantastic team manager Paul Donnelly (Alison Paul International). He somehow managed to get us up on stage to accept our first international medals. We couldn’t believe it, there were competitors from all over the world who had been trying to do this each year, and never before had an Irish barber team achieved a silver medal upon entering first time around. Did you find inspiration in any of your competitors work? Certainly, as a team we find inspiration in everything we look at. It could be a hairstyle that we may not initially have thought worked, clothing that we may not necessarily come across at home, or techniques that were learned in the various countries. The variety and range of ideas
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on show really drove home to us the endless possibilities available to us, and how we can increase and expand on our own catalogue of aesthetic looks. What were the professional benefits of attending such an event (aside from winning and the publicity?) Since setting off on this trip to Paris we have met some truly amazing people. We built a great relationship with the team Ireland ladies, the Northern Ireland team and team Italy. So there’s certainly some excuses there for future holidays! More than anything, it has opened up our minds in the sense that we now know that this can possibly allow us to travel the world, meet and be inspired by others, and that ultimately it will push us to further our own businesses and to keep chasing these awards. It’s only a few years ago that these were probably nothing more than ambitious thoughts. This success has been eye opening and reassured us that we’re certainly doing something right. So finally, have you got your sights set on further competitions? Absolutely, yes! We wouldn’t have to think twice about doing it all over again. We are back training every Sunday, trying out some new techniques that have not yet been implemented in Ireland. Watch this space! www.platinumbarbers.ie IHF Gents Team Ireland is: Richie Lalor IHF Team Ireland Captain Platinum Barbers, Swords Kevin Rownan Platinum Barbers, Swords Evan Lynch Platinum Barbers, Swords John Keegan The Academy Barber, Celbridge Sam Keating The Academy Barber, Celbridge Paul Donnelly IHF Team Ireland Manager Alison Paul International, Rathfarnam IBJ \\\ 7
What Will Be New in 2016? Frank Hackett of Retro Barbershop, Limerick, reviews the last year in barbering trends and makes style predictions for the upcoming year. The recent evolution of style in the male grooming industry is truly fascinating to me. I don’t think I have ever seen such a wide variety of styles emerge as I have in the last eighteen months. As we come to the end of another year, I’d like to take a moment to look back at some of the most popular styles we’ve have been carrying out in our shop in Limerick throughout 2015. In 2014, we saw the comb over haircut with a hard part become hugely popular. But to be honest, like all haircuts, after doing a few thousand of these - I was definitely glad to see the back of them!
“...there are already ripples coming through the industry, suggesting which styles will be the most popular for 2016.`’
In saying that, as one haircut is phased out another is always evolving. Low and high fades took centre stage in 2015 and still are going strong. Earlier this year, the low fade became a mainstream haircut for most guys. It later evolved into the high fade, which again, developed into a further demand for the ‘bald’ or ‘razor blade’ fade. The styling of all of these haircuts has generally been a side parting, with the hair quiffed or slicked back. It’s been great to see such a variation of styles coming through the shop. We’ve reached a stage now where our customers are looking for something new again. At the moment, they are wearing their hair much longer on top, and we have seen the introduction of the undercut - where one or both sides of the haircut are disconnected. With regards to the year ahead, there are already ripples coming through
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the industry, suggesting which styles will be the most popular for 2016. The modern crop is most definitely one of these haircuts. I can’t see it becoming as mainstream as some of its predecessors, but there is certainly a large market out there for it.
“The modern crop is most definitely one of these haircuts. I can’t see it becoming as mainstream as some of its predecessors, but there is certainly a large market out there for it.”
It also looks like curly hair is making a comeback. This may prove to be an issue for some barbers, especially if your customer has naturally straight hair. In these cases, a perm or a body wave will be your only option to get the required look. This process involves using chemicals like perm and neutralising lotions. As a precaution, always do a double check to see that you are insured to carry out this service. However, I do think it will be just a minority trying this style out. Personally, I think we will be seeing more of a wave combined with a low fade. This will be the more commercial friendly look, with the tighter curly look being confined to the catwalk and photographic work. Tips for creating the look 1. Add a salt spray to towel dried hair. 2. Try blow drying the hair with a diffuser. This hairdryer attachment diffuses the air the dryer emits allowing it to spread softly through the hair rather than blasting it full-on. 3. Get the diffuser as close to the root area as possible. 4. Slowly rotate the dryer to create movement. 5. Select a low speed setting to avoid creating a big fluffy head of hair.
6. If you don’t have a diffuser at your disposal, use a regular hair dryer. Again, set at a low speed, and simply scrunch your hair with your hand to create the desired movement. 7. Try scrunching in a little product at the root area to give your waves optimal support. Our customers are getting more and more educated on what styles are available to them, and they’re no longer shy about pulling out their phone and showing us a photo. The days of the style book are essentially gone!
‘Our customers are getting more and more educated on what styles are available to them, and they’re no longer shy about pulling out their phone and showing us a photo.’' Our customers are now asking for the low fade, high fade, and disconnected undercut - which in itself makes our job easier. What I mean is that it is a lot easier from a client consultation point of view, because as barbers we can now be on the same wavelength as our client in terms of the visual aids that are being used.
2015 Products This year we’ve seen the introduction of Layrite super hold and grooming spray, and since the Summer we’ve seen Layrite cement become available - all on offer from True Barber Products. These products are flying out the door and literally sell themselves. Their quality is top class and honestly just great value. I’ve been stocking American Crew for the last 17 years, which is generally seen as the market leader in men’s grooming products. It is however, great to finally come across a product that can compete with some of the ‘Crew products. I’m hoping that next year Layrite will extend the range of products available to us. Another great product is ‘Back to Black’ which is basically a light hold coloured gel . This product gives a grey hair a colour with a natural effect, and sets the style with a strong and long-lasting hold. It’s fluid consistency makes the gel easy to apply and style, and the no-transfer technology means that it doesn’t stain the scalp or hands during application. It also washes out of the hair without leaving any residue. A simple shampoo is all it takes. Back to Black instantly covers up any percentage of white hairs, giving a youthful look and a strong set. This product has proved very popular with customers who don’t wish to get a permanent colour. You can purchase Back to Black from selected professionals. It is also available from Essential Salon Supplies, Limerick & Dublin: http://essentialsalon.ie/essential/ I’d like to thank Mary Fleming and the Dublin School of Barbering for asking me to contribute to the Irish Barbers Journal, and look forward to many more issues in 2016. www.retrobarbers.ie
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Barber Training at Dublin School of Barbering No matter what level you’re at, we have the right training course for you. All accredited courses are run in association with the VTCT and are recognised internationally. Level 2 Certificate in Barbering
www.vtct.org.uk
Level 3 Certificate in Advanced Barbering
VTCT accredited
VTCT accredited
The noble and sexy art of skilled barbering is becoming more and more in demand these days. The beard is back! With the growing popularity of old-school full beards, and other facial-hair based badges of modern manliness, good barbers are never going to be short of work.
Becoming a barber is essentially about becoming a master of a craft, and this advanced qualification has been tailor made for the following groups:
If you want to become a barber you want to go down the road of working with the tried and trusted accrediting bodies, so you can have full confidence in your training, and your future employers can too. Learn the ancient art of barbering from it’s very begnnings at our city centre location. This qualification is for those who wish to kick start their career in barbering - so no experience is necessary to gain entry onto this course. We truly belive that ‘there’s no school like the old school’, so we teach all of our students the tried and tested methods of traditional barbering. This means that you’ll leave with a portfolio of useful skills that you will draw upon throughout your entire barbering career. You will cover the following modules as part of your studies: • Health and safety • Client Consultation • Cutting Facial Hair • Cutting Men’s Hair Part Time Course 3 evenings per week over 12 weeks, Monday - Wednesday. Full Time Course 4 days per week over 6 weeks, Monday - Thursday. Why should you take this course? • Certified qualification • City centre location • Respected provider • Surpervised cuts on real clients • Acquire a useful portfolio of work
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• •
Established barbers who wish to upskill Hairdressers who want to learn the ins and outs of men’s hairdressing.
The VTCT oversee all hair and beauty qualifications in Ireland, and they make sure that we are aligned with the UK and elsewhere. This means that your qualification will be a solid vouch of your ability to any employer. They’ll trust that you know your stuff! You’ll also feel confidence in yourself, as in order to qualify you have to pass all the practical and knowledge hurdles along the way. This means once you’ve got through, you’ll be ready for real work - you’ll have taken the first step of the journey to becoming a master (or mistress!) barber The main topics covered throught the course are: • Creatively cutting men’s hair • Intricate specialist work of cutting facial hair Entry Onto This Qualification Admission to the course is granted on the basis of a quick skills test. This takes place prior to paying a deposit. Part Time Course 3 evenings per week over 10 weeks, Monday Wednesday. Full Time Course 4 days per week over 4 weeks, Monday - Thursday. Why Should you take this course? • Certified qualification • City centre location • Respected provider • Supervised cuts on real clients • Acquire a useful portfolio of work
Assessor Training
Teacher Training
VTCT accredited
VTCT accredited
Interested in maintaining the high strandards of a VTCT course in your own barbering school? This is the qualification for you.
Have you reached the stage where you wish to share your mastery with the next generation of barbers? Take your skills to the next level with our accredited teacher taining course and start a brand new chapter of your barbering career.
To get the solid foundation that you need, you have to go through the official accrediting body of the VTCT. Getting the VTCT qualification means you know you’re on solid ground. Training with us means you know you’re getting the best possible start you can - if that sounds good to you, we’d love to hear from you.
What we hope to instill in future trainers is that becoming a master barber is all about taking the journey to truly become the best you can be at a craft. It’s not just about skill at cutting hair and beards, it’s also about students taking pride in their work, attention to detail, being able This course is for barbering professionals who work in the to put clients at ease, and figuring out exactly what they following areas: want - even if they don’t know themselves! At The Dublin • Those who assess occupational competence, Barber School we take great pride in providing the vocational skills, knowledge, and understanding in the absolute best training possible. workplace. • Those who do this in environments other than the This particular award is aimed at helping the following workplace (i.e. workshop, classroom or other training groups to practice effectively: environment). • Teachers Packed with everything you need to become a • Trainers knowledgeable assessor, you’ll be covering the following • Facilitators areas: • Research into assessment methods Important! • Understanding the principles and practices of This award is mandatory requirement for any new teacher assessment trainer who teaches on publicly funded provision. • Practical work in assessing learner’s occupational Under current law, it must be completed within the first 12 competence in the work place months of employment. • Assessing learner’s knowledge and understanding Entry Onto This Qualification Entry Onto This Qualification This course is designed to develop the skills of those with To gain entry onto this qualification, you will need to be a a solid knowledge of barbering, who wish to progress fully competent, practicing barber with access to potential their career. Admission is based on a skills test prior to learners. payment of a deposit. Times Training takes place over 3 Sundays in Temple Bar, Dublin 2, 10 am - 3 pm. Refresments provided.
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Times Training takes place over 3 Sundays in Temple Bar, Dublin 2. 10 am - 3 pm. Refresments provided.
Hot Towel Shaving This is where Old School meets New School. Learn the traditional art of men’s shaving using modern products to give the ultimate shave. We take you through the steps of gowning the client correctly, preshave preparation, traditional shave techniques and finish.
Traditional Barbering (One Day Course) There’s more to barbering than just cutting hair! Come along and spend an afternoon with Pádraig as he imparts his vast knowledge of traditional barbering. Areas covered are seating and gowning client correctly, various linen setups, using traditional methods and techniques.
Shave kit for every participant.
Effective Use of a Mannequin Head in the Training Process (One Day Course) The mannequin is an important tool in teaching the basic techniques in barbering. Learn how to make the most out resource with predefined drills and techniques that ensure the learner covers a wide range of techniques.
Managing the Training Process Effectively (One Day Course) The course is for anyone involved in the actual barber training process as an assessor or IQA. Participants are shown how to set up learner folders correctly, how to develop standardised assessments and how to apply these to every class thus ensuring a smooth running school.
For further information on dates and prices please visit www.dublinschoolofbarbering.com IBJ \\\ 14 \\\ irishbarbersjournal.com
Styling (One Day Course) Pomps & Partings. With today’s longer styles it’s important to have a good grasp of great styling techniques. Join us for a fun filled day getting every hair in place. We will look at what equipment to use, products and their different uses.
How to Teach Barbering (One Day Course) Based on experience, Pádraig will guide you through the optimum method of taking a learner and getting them skilled in the basics of barbering techniques.
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PAUL MAC SPECIAL In October Paul represented Ireland with his stand out cut at the Wahl British Barber of the year. Here he shares his process with us.
Cover Photography: Paul Mac Special Article Photography: Molly O’Neill Model: Hugo Santos, Vanity Vague Model Agency
THE PROCESS
“
We started the look by bleaching Hugo’s hair ten days before cutting & colouring it. I did this so that the colour would graduate through the fade, but also because we wanted there to be a regrowth (blade #1•5). Having a regrowth meant that I would have a dark base to do the Satanic cross pattern across the back. I coloured the hair a few days before to achieve a lilac & turquoise faded pastel effect. I started by using a blade #4•5 at the top of the fade. Then I worked down and used a Wahl Bellina to cut my first line (zero blade) then went up an inch (#0•5 blade) and blended out the lines with a blade #1. I used a Wahl foil shaver at the bottom of the fade to create a skin-fade. I removed that line with a Wahl detailer. I used a scissor over comb to blend the blade #4•5 at the top into the longer areas of hair then I cut a blunt horseshoe shaped line at the back and started with the middle cross. Then adding alternating crosses either side using a Wahl mag sterling trimmer. I used a straight razor to sharpen everything up and a Wahl mag to create a blunt cropped fringe. I trimmed the top with scissors while texturizing to accentuate the colour. Volumizing dust and hairspray was used to style the top for a grungy bedhead look. A final spritz of strong hold hairspray will keep it all in place. -PAUL MAC SPECIAL
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”
THE RESULT
“
As a hairdresser (Hedonist Hair, Belfast) and model (Vanity Vague Model Agency) my hair is one of the most important things to me. It starts with the products I use, then the perfect cut and colour. I have tried many different barbers in both Ireland and Portugal and Paul Mac Special is by far my favourite. He doesn’t need much of a description of the cut I’m looking for. He just has a way of making any hairstyle unique to my style and personality every time. Paul is a talented barber and his work speaks for itself. -HUGO SANTOS
”
You can find Paul in The Crop Shop - 25 Paul Street in Cork City and at @paulmacspecial on all social media accounts. Paul Mac Special is a member of The Lions Barber Collective, a group of British & Irish Barbers currently making a collection lookbook for Suicide Prevention with proceeds going to Pieta House. You can find out more about The Lions Barber Collective and their cause at www.facebook.com/TheLionsBarberCollective/
With thanks to Sean Bryan in Cut & Sew on the Quays for allowing us to use his lovely barber shop for the shoot and preparatory work for the competition itself.
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An Irish Barber Abroad
As part of an ongoing series we have been interviewing Irish barbers who have carved out successful careers for themselves in barbering industries far and wide. For this issue, we spoke to Laois native Padraig Whelehan (pictured main image left) founder of Brother Wolf, Melbourne. Padraig, please tell us a bit about your barbering background and why you made the move from Ireland. I became interested in barbering when I was a teenager. In Laois, it was difficult to get a decent trim. I remember my Dad bought me a set of clippers so I could cut his hair at home, and from that I started doing my own as well as some close friend’s hair to avoid the dodgy countryside barbershops! I enjoyed it from the very beginning, however, never considered it a real career choice. I finished school and began travelling, working in clothes shops, supermarkets and bars. I carried my clippers with me wherever I went though - just so I could fix myself or anyone else up along the way. In winter months I lived in Carlow, and in the Summer months I lived un Greece. This continued until I was nineteen years old. When I came home from Greece for the last time my Mam, Bernie, sat me down for a chat. She said it was time that I started thinking about doing something a bit more serious. I was a little lost at the time, and I didn’t have a clue what I wanted to do. I knew I could never sit still in a classroom or an office, to which Mam suggested “Why don’t you give barbering a try, you have always enjoyed cutting hair”. So after that, I called a barbershop in Newbridge called “Portland Barbers”
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to enquire about a barbering apprenticeship. Gary, the owner, was very kind and told me to come in for a chat to discuss the barbering profession. Gary had completed his training with Liam and Linda Finnegan at the Waldorf Barbers and educated me on the shop and it’s rich history. We talked for a while and during the meeting he mentioned “maybe they will need an apprentice, I’ll give Linda a call”. So he called Linda up there and then, they chatted for a bit, and she said send him up for an interview on Friday morning.
“The moment I stepped into the Waldorf I immediately became obsessed with the profession.” I went up on the bus early that Friday morning and met with Linda. The moment I stepped into the Waldorf I immediately became obsessed with the profession. The tools, the steamers, tonics, hot towels; everything was incredible, the shop was like a museum. I sat down with Linda and we talked for a while, she explained the ins and outs of the shop and my job as an apprentice barber. So that’s pretty much how it all started for me! After spending a few years working at the Waldorf, I got the itch to travel again. A few of my friends had left Ireland and I felt like I had done as much as I could in Dublin. I was confident that I could travel anywhere and cut hair after my training at the Waldorf, so I packed up my scissors
and left for New York. Within a few days of arriving in New York, I found work in Queens working for cash. Unfortunately, due to visa issues I could not stay for any longer than three months, but at this stage a few mates were living in Manly Beach, Sydney so after a short stint back in Dublin, I flew to Sydney to meet them. When you first arrived in Australia, where did you start - did you have any connections with established barbers there? What were the high and low points of your first year abroad? When I first arrived I thought I would relax and have a holiday, however, if you have been to Manly Beach, you will understand that you need a nice pot of cash to do so. After just a week, reality kicked in and the very little bit of money I had saved was running out. Therefore, I decided to cut my holiday short and get back to cutting hair!
“If you are thinking about moving anywhere you have to be confident in your work and have a positive attitude. If your work is good, you will have no problem finding a job.” I didn’t know anybody in the barbering industry at the time but I knew that if I turned up on a few doorsteps someone would take me in. So I grabbed my gear and hit the streets looking for a cool place to work. After two days of showing up to shops with my tools a gentleman by the name of Lee Watts, the owner of Lawson’s in Sydney, gave me a job. Lawson’s is just off Darling Harbour and this is where I spent my first year in Australia. High and low points!? Honestly, it was that simple, once I had a job and had money coming in there was no major issues.
plenty of salons, but for the size of the city, there was hardly any trendy barbershops practicing quality work. You really had to scratch beneath the surface to find them. The industry has developed immensely since then and is continually growing which is exciting to watch. Many guys are coming out of the salons and back to the barbershops, which is the way it should be really. Are there any uniquely Irish qualities/traits that you feel you bring to the Australian industry? Well all my shaving methods are from the Waldorf, to this day I use the exact routine I was taught back then. But the most unique Irish selling point after that is a shot of Teeling whiskey with every haircut or shave! In your opinion, what sort of person do you have to be to make the move to the other side of the world? What recommendations would you make to someone who wanted to do the same? If you are thinking about moving anywhere you have to be confident in your work and have a positive attitude. If your work is good, you will have no problem finding a job. Once you have money coming in all you have to do is enjoy meeting new people in a new city and have fun. Finally – any big career goals for 2016? In December Brother Wolf will be open one year. We have worked very hard all year and employed passionate barbers, which has helped a lot with the success. This is something we will continue to do and we encourage any guys thinking of travelling over to get in contact with us. Also, we are hoping commence training courses throughout 2016 - so watch this space! Instagram : brotherwolf_ Email: brotherwolf.barbershop@ gmail.com
When you reflect on the Irish barbering industry now, how do you think it compares to the industry in Australia? What is different/similar? I believe that the styles are very similar but that the standard back home is higher. Competition is high and there are barbershops popping up everywhere you go. I arrived in Melbourne almost three years ago. Initially, it was hard to find a barbershop. There were definitely
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The Next Generation of Style Colm McGuinness of Calvin Arthur Barbers, Shannon, knows that today’s youth want more from their haircuts than they ever have before. What does this mean for the barbering trade? The days of the ‘kids cut’ being the perfect opportunity to train junior staff members is well and truly dead. There was a time in the not so distant past, that when a young customer approached the barbershop door you would give your junior barber the nod of approval to get to work in honing their barbering skills on the unsuspecting young model. Nowadays, most barbershops will train their staff in scheduled training classes with dummy heads or models that have chosen to be there, and lets face it, kids today know what style they want and usually aren’t afraid to say who they want to cut it. I will never forget when as a child my Mother produced a video from her shopping bag which turned out to be a step-by-step guide to cutting hair. Much to my detriment, the kit also came with a scissors, clippers and combs. I didn’t have a choice in the matter - my mother was cutting my hair, learning as she cut and that was that. There is no way a Mother would get away with that today. Kids are far too clued in to style trends and far too conscious of their own personal style to allow it to happen. Of course, at the time I had no idea if she had done an exceptional job or not for her first attempt at hairdressing. However, I’m pretty sure that if I looked back from my own perspective now as a barber that I would have been well and truly butchered.
“I didn’t have a choice in the matter - my Mother was cutting my hair, learning as she cut, and that was that! There is no way a Mother would get away with that today.” There have always been the trend setters in pop culture that kids and adults alike have tried to emulate. In terms of men’s grooming, the likes of Elvis Presley and James Dean immediately spring to mind, but of course every decade since these two icons became popular there has been a continous stream of new trend setters to imitate and recreate within the barbershop. The big difference lately though in terms of the styles that young people request is the massive acceleration in technology and the internet being so easily accessible. To put that in layman’s terms - kids see more! The internet and media world is incredibly vast, not only do kids find style icons on television, the big screen, or on the football pitch but they also find them on Youtube, Instagram, Periscope and Facebook. This all leads to one thing; variety. This means that as barbers we can no longer get by on just knowing how to cut the latest trend as there are always multiple styles that are on trend and kids aren’t afraid to be individual.
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This is great news for the barber trade. It means that barbers will be kept on their toes and need to train to a higher standard in order to keep up with demands for better quality and variety from our younger clientele. In turn, the barbershops that put the most effort in with training their staff to a high standard and keeping up to date with the diversity of style that the internet has to offer will be the ones most rewarded.
“....barbers will be kept on their toes and need to train to a higher standard in order to keep up with demands for better quality and variety from our younger clientele.”
I strive to keep the standards up at Calvin Arthur Barbers. We work on an appointment basis and make sure to allow enough time to have a good consultation and to be consistent. It amazes me how many young customers I have that are more than able to book their own haircut and are confident enough to tell you what they have in mind. But at the end of the day, it’s up to us barbers to know what styles are out there and to identify what will suit our customers best. www.facebook.com/calvin-arthur-barbers www.calvinarthurbarbers.ie
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A High Quality Barbering Experience in Carrick-On-Shannon Kevin Fitzsimons has been working hard at bringing quality barbershops to Ireland’s midlands. With two shops now open, one in Longford and the newest addition in Carrick-On-Shannon, Kevin spoke to us about his journey so far with ‘A Clip Around the Ear’. I began my career in 1982 at an old AnCo course in Finglas, Dublin where I learnt the basics of hairdressing and barbering. Following that, I spent some time working in Mullingar until I moved to the UK, Nottingham specifically, where I got a job as a junior barber with a well known shop called Altered Images. It was here that I began to become inspired by barbering, as I had a great boss who taught me everything that I know about precision cutting and attention to detail.
“Pretty much as soon as I was asked would I be interested in the opportunity I had jumped on a plane, and within weeks I had agreed to take over the business.” Once I finished my apprenticeship, I relocated to London where I worked as a junior barber / hairdresser. I ended up working across a number of shops including ‘Scissors’ on the King’s road. I loved the buzz around the area and there was a great deal inspiration coming from Vidal Sassoon at that time. After ten years in the industry, I moved on up into management with Regis Salons (a UK salon group). It had come to a point where I felt as though I needed a complete change, and so I started my work in direct sales. This taught me a great deal about customer management, as well as the more obvious sales skills. It was also around this time that I started to notice hairdressing becoming a somewhat stale industry, with
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straight long hair and all over clipper cuts becoming the popular norm. It was actually just a few years ago that I started to notice a return to classic men’s cuts. This is what got my creative juices flowing and inspired me to return to the trade once more. Once I had decided that I wanted to go back to barbering I completed a refresher course at Total Barber in Shoreditch, London. I found myself completely hooked again and started working as a barber in Kent, gaining invaluable shop floor experience. Some time had passed when I received a phone call from a friend in Ireland who told me that a hairdressing business was coming up for rent in a prominent shopping centre in Longford. Pretty much as soon as I was asked would I be interested in the opportunity I had jumped on a plane, and within weeks I had agreed to take over the business.
This year we’ve had great experiences with Schorem and Paul Mac. With regards to setting up the shops, there were certainly a few sleepless nights! However, I feel that if you believe in what you do and enjoy it you should 100% just go for it. I think that one of the most important things is to build a good team, because at the end of the day, you’re only as good as them. In terms of hiring staff, my main requirement was a genuine passion and a belief in what we were trying to do with the shop. It definitely wasn’t about how many years they had done in shops elsewhere, but rather that they were excited about their trade and had a willingness to learn.
“I feel that if you believe in what you do and enjoy it you should 100% just go for it.”
We opened the first ‘A Clip Around the Ear’ barber shop in Longford in June 2014 and the rest is history at this stage. We firmly believe in quality men’s grooming with attention to detail, and we provide this service in a quirky chilled out environment with nice little finishing touches such as a pool table for waiting customers and Sky sports for lots of football banter. In my mind, these things add to the atmosphere of the shop. We also recommend quality retail products and stock our own brand which we are very proud of.
The positive feedback from our customers is the biggest high I’ve experienced with running my own business. Additionally, seeing the development of the guys alongside me has been amazing - I’ve enjoyed every minute of it.
As a team, we try to stay up to date with current trends and make an effort to attend as many relevant workshops and exhibitions as possible.
www.facebook.com/ acliparoundtheear www.facebook.com/ acliparoundtheearcarrickonshannon
Going forward, I hope that we can maintain the standards we have set. I also recently did some teaching and I am currently studying with Dublin School of Barbering to complete a teaching and assessor qualification, so once that’s done I have my sights set on opening my own academy.
A Traditional Shop for Tallaght Vinny McEvoy and Michael Devine are a unique duo who have recently opened up an old school barbers in the heart of Tallaght village. With two differing approaches to barbering, how do they make it work at Empire Barbershop? Mary Fleming spoke to them on the premises. Photography by Mick Arnold Vinny and Michael had been running their business from a much smaller location on the Belgard road for about four years prior to opening up at their current spot on High street, Tallaght. When I visited the new premises on a Friday morning, just seven weeks after the grand opening, there was a healthy queue of customers waiting for a quality cut from what has turned out to be Tallaght’s premier traditional barbering establishment. The pair have managed to build up a loyal customer base after tending to the tonsorial needs of local men for the last few years, but of course, it’s taken a lot of hard work and determination for them to get to this point. Vinny admits; ‘One of our saving graces initially was simply being located on top of another manly type of business - that got some customers in to us in the beginning’. However, it has to have been the standard of service and their detail orientated approach to cutting hair which has kept the customers coming back. That, and the fact that customers no longer have to travel into the city centre for a high quality cut, rather, it’s now available on their doorstep. Achieving a solid client base was not an easy task considering Tallaght is pretty much packed to capacity with barbershops who offer haircuts at cheaper rates. Vinny and Michael have made a point of sticking to their guns and offer a type of service that is just not available anywhere else in the area. Haircuts take a minimum of 30 minutes, there’s a pool table in the shop if you want to hang out, and sometimes there’s a beer or two on offer. This is not an ‘in-and-out’ barbershop, it’s a place for men of
all ages and backgrounds to come in and relax for a while. The set up of the shop is truly traditional. For the time being, haircuts are given on a walk-in only basis. Hot towel shaves are on the menu, and a tight fade is taken very seriously. There is a difference when it comes to the two managers creative styles though. Vinny ‘the business brain’ behind the shop is very much a staunch traditionalist when it comes to barbering, whilst Michael (who might be termed as the creative half of the operation) certainly appreciates the old school, but takes a great deal of inspiration from modern creative barbering collectives such as Menspire.
“You have the tradtional end of things which has witnessed a huge resurgence in popularity due to the likes of the Schorem barbers. Then you have the other end which is more concerned with pushing the boundaries of creative styling for men.”
good crop, and is happy for customers to come into the shop and request the latest look that they’ve pulled from men’s fashion shoots, but when the time comes to carry out these types of cuts in the shop, it’s Michael that will take them on. Vinny and Michael have had two very different introductions to barbering, with Vinny originally getting his barbering inspiration from his uncle Eddie McEvoy; one of Dublin’s great traditional barbers. Michael on the other hand, started out with an introductory barbering course and has worked hard at honing his creative skills ever since. Perhaps it was a little early to ask, but I was wondering would the lads ever consider opening further shops down the line. Vinny said that he wouldn’t consider it until he felt the current shop was 100% perfect, and that is perhaps why you should visit them - because they accept nothing less than perfection. https://www.facebook.com/ empirebarbers
Vinny acknowledges that their two approaches have actually turned out to be a direct reflection of the modern barbering industry at large; “You have the tradtional end of things which has witnessed a huge resurgence in popularity due to the likes of the Schorem barbers. Then you have the other end which is more concerned with pushing the boundaries of creative styling for men.” Vinny certainly appreciates a
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“
The only way we could interact daily with a potential clent base before we were ready to open our doors, was to engage with them through social media.
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David Branagan The Man Cave
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They have to follow you as someone who wants to help them, not as a mad salesman. Fellipe Santiago Santiago Barber
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Embracing the Era of Social Media in the Barbershop Setting Quality haircuts are certainly the backbone of any barbershop, but is social media the key to taking your business to the next level? Liane Murray investigates. The most important elements for a successful barbering business are often agreed to be quality haircuts, friendly staff, a strategic location, and competitive pricing. All of the above boils down to customer loyalty. By now we have all considered the hype of using social media such as Facebook, Twitter, Instagram, and Snapchat to advertise a business. Is it really just a phase, or can social media help boost your business? A way to enhance customer loyalty is to create more dialogue between the business and its patrons. Forbes Magazine states “Social media marketing results in higher conversion rates in a few distinct ways. Perhaps the most significant is its humanization element; the fact that brands become more humanized by interacting in social media channels.”
“A way to enhance customer loyalty is to create more dialogue between the business and its patrons.” We spoke to David Branagan, owner of the Man Cave Barbers, 11 Harty Avenue, Dublin. David has a background in marketing and explains to us that they started using social media four weeks before the Man Cave Barbers even opened shop: “The only way we could interact daily with a potential client base before we were ready to open our doors, was to engage with them through social media. We created a little bit of hype around what we were about to do and low and behold, our opening week was a massive success.” When we asked him about which social media platform he used most he said, “We would use Facebook most frequently. However, we have a presence also on Twitter, Instagram and Snapchat. I think Facebook are leading the way in terms of a varied audience but we also realize the importance of the other 3 most popular platforms and their user base.” He advises, “For anybody going into business my best advice would be to learn the ins and outs of each individual social media platform first.” Many barbers are renting chairs or working freelance and need to advertise themselves and their own skills rather than a business. We asked Fellipe Santiago who created his own Facebook page, Santiago Barber, about which social media platform he uses and why, “Facebook. Because it’s easy, free and crowded.” On top of using
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the power of indication, or word-of-mouth, he says, “Plus this, I always ask for them to give me stars/review on my Facebook fan page.” Fellipe suggests being creative with your posts, “They have to follow you as someone who wants to help them, not as a mad salesman.”
“Barbering is a personal trade where interactions with customers are always important, whether face-to-face or online.” Reviews are another way that social media has a significant impact on businesses. We’ve seen a major increase over the last few years of customers writing reviews, good and bad, on websites such as Google, Yelp, and of course Facebook. Reviews can make or break a business and need to be taken seriously. It’s all too easy to take a bad review personally and the shop staff/owner dealing with it have the option of responding in a professional manner and use this to better their business, or lash out at the customer. Barbering is a personal trade where interactions with customers are always important, whether face-to-face or online. Not every barbershop owner or manager feels the need to use social media. Many are in very busy locations and have a constant stream of foot traffic, as customers often prefer not to schedule a haircut, but rather walk in when running errands. Whether you prefer to advertise your shop locally, or you are a social media guru constantly updating your pages, there is a general consensus that using these platforms can increase business, improve your search engine rankings, save you money on marketing, and give you more authority over the perception that new potential customers have on your barbering business. Email: lianelebarbier@gmail.com The Man Cave Facebook: www.facebook.com/TheManCave.ie/ Santiago Barber Facebook: www.facebook.com/fellipesantiagobarber/ Santiago Barber Photo Credit: Marcelo Albuquerque
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