Dream by Luxury Escapes | Issue 9

THE LUX FILES

It’s all Greek to MO

Mandarin Oriental opens its first property in Greece on the Costa

Anaheim is Disney HQ, but it also has a vibrant food scene away from the Mouse House.

Playing the generation game in Bali

Three generations head to Ayodya Resort Bali for fun, education and connection.

48 e foodie city mouse that roared

Jamala Wildlife Lodge is top of the food chain

Sleeping next to lions is the apex of zoo stays at Canberra’s National Zoo and Aquarium.

Take a peak at the Victorian High Country

It may be snow season but there are also food, wine and goats up in them there hills.

A coastal getaway in central Vietnam

Alma resort in Cam Ranh is the perfect place for travellers to rest, relax and recharge.

Cover image

The Ghan luxury railway journey.

Photo: Scott Woodward

Navarino.

e Luxury Escapes insider guide to the Maldives

It’s a dream destination for couples: discover the insider secrets to paradise.

Editorial

Head of Content

Penny Cordner-Maas

Managing Editor

Paul Chai

Creative Lead

Natalie Meneghetti

Content Manager

Stephanie Mikkelsen

For all editorial enquiries, contact editorial@luxuryescapes.com

Advertising

GM Media & Brand

Partnerships

Matt Bailey

Tourism Boards

Partnerships Manager

Jodie Collins

Strategic Partnerships

Executive

Annika Rothschild

Contributing writers

Nate Robinson, Sofia Calvert, Boden Westover, Sarah Wilkes, Jessica Bedewi, Annabel Fuller

Design team

Elise Ackland, Audrey Campkin-Smith, Jason Maisano, Nathan Pascual, Veronica Sam

Strategic Partnerships Leader

Chris Neill

Partnerships Manager Michael Grenenger

For all advertising enquiries, contact mediasales@luxuryescapes.com

Luxury Escapes

CEO and Co-founder

Adam Schwab

General Manager –Marketing

Boden Westover

Chief Marketing Officer Ben Connell

Dream by Luxury Escapes is published by Luxury Escapes (ACN 150 650 927), Level 4, 68 Clarke Street, Southbank, VIC 3006. Ph: 1300 88 99 00. Printed in partnership with Invicium print management company.

For nearly a century, the highend hotel brand has been captivating travellers. Can a train take you back in time?

Ra es celebrates 100 years in Cambodia

Immerse yourself in the outback history surrounding The Ghan luxury railway.

e sheer power of The White Lotus

How Anantara’s Thailand properties are set to boom after starring in the HBO TV series.

Setting sail along the Dalmatian Coast

An Azamara cruise is the perfect way to deep dive into Croatian culture.

Do more dreaming online

Be inspired by wanderlustworthy destinations, travellers’ tales and the latest travel trends online at Dream by Luxury Escapes.

From the Luxury Escapes CEO

ailand on a budget: how to travel luxe for less.

Ooh la luxe: we check out the dreamiest Paris hotels.

Also catch us at:

It has been a high-flying few months at Luxury Escapes with some amazing launches and a brand-new loyalty program.

Something we have always dreamed of doing is having our own private plane to take on tour and we have finally made it a reality. Departing in April 2026, Luxury Escapes’ incredible 25-day Ultimate Europe by Private Charter Flight allows members to channel their inner Kardashian on a tour that will include nine “bucket list” cities from Prague to Porto. Guests will be travelling on Luxury Escapes’ very own chartered A320-200 aircraft with private airport terminal check-in, personal porters on arrival and all-inclusive culinary adventures.

This new tour is the most ambitious trip we’ve created to date, a seamless collection of once-in-a-lifetime European moments with some serious bougieness. Many of the routes we will fly aren’t offered as direct flights by commercial airlines so flying on their own exclusive plane between some of the most extraordinary places in Europe will allow our travellers to make the most of the amazing outings hosted by local experts in

each destination. The lucky travellers will eat pintxos in San Sebastian, go on secret street food tours and can opt in to Michelinstarred restaurants.

Another recent offering that will make you feel like the old-school jet set is our new Société loyalty program. This loyalty program rewards Luxury Escapes members because every booking brings you more than just memories. As a member of Société, you’ll earn points every time you book hotels, flights, tours and more. There are a lot of loyalty programs in the travel space but Société sets out to provide exceptional value, something that is at the heart of all Luxury Escapes products.

This is also Dream by Luxury Escapes’ second birthday issue and we have some ultra-luxury experiences in this issue with the opening of Mandarin Oriental’s first property in Greece (“Hellenic hero”, page 18), the iconic Ghan train journey in Australia’s outback (“Time machine”, page 82) and 100 years of Raffles in Cambodia (“A century of service”, page 98).

So, let’s raise a glass to the future of travel.

Adam Schwab

CEO and Co-founder Luxury Escapes

Explore more culture

THE LUX FILES

/ Mandarin Oriental’s dazzling Greek debut

/ A progressive dinner in Orange County

/ Snow, salsa and goats in Victoria’s High Country

/ New Royal Caribbean ship sets sails from LA

Mandarin Oriental, Costa Navarino, page 18.

Snow guns

Frank Camorra and Grant Smillie lead a Tommy Collins food takeover at Mt Buller.

Sun-kissed Italian

New Italian restaurant opens on the beachfront at Mondrian Gold Coast

Burleigh Heads continues its transformation with the arrival of LiTO, an all-day dining spot headed by Italian-born chef Andrea Morigi (formerly of Uccello).

LiTO, located in the new Mondrian Gold Coast, will be a Goldie take on Italian dining, with food that feels familiar yet fresh, and one that is guided by the seasonal local ingredients.

“It’s about joy on the plate – handmade, wholehearted, relaxed. Like the kind of meal best shared among friends with something good in the glass,” Andrea says. “LiTO invites you to settle in without watching the clock – for a long lunch, a slow dinner or anything in between.”

Bags of style

New travel ranges from big brands in time for northern summer travels.

Mt Buller has long been on a mission to make sure its food scene is about more than just jam donuts under the village stairs (though those are excellent!). And this year it has some of the country’s best chefs doing snow pop-ups at Villager. Hospitality group Tom Collins is bringing culinary heavyweights like MoVida’s Frank Camorra, Jason Jones from Entrecote and Marmont’s Grant Smillie mountainside for a series of

New track star

amazing food experiences. Bringing Melbourne to the Mountain is a winter takeover of the Mt Buller village venue with a series of intimate, ticketed dinners and Bourke St outdoor parties. Each restaurant partner will host a one-weekend-only dinner takeover at Villager, serving signature dishes with a bold alpine twist, all paired with top-tier drinks, a curated soundtrack and that unmistakable Melbourne hospitality edge.

Golden Eagle Luxury Trains adds epic Vietnam journey to its 2026 program.

The new Vietnam Express from Golden Eagle Luxury Trains offers beautifully designed Indochine-inspired cabins with ensuite, an elegant bistro car for drinks and dining around the clock. The 14day Treasures of the East adventure begins in Ho Chi Minh City, travelling to cities like Hoi An and Hanoi, and ending in Shanghai. Across the border, guests will transfer to the ultra-luxe Golden Eagle Silk Road Express to continue this remarkable journey through China’s cultural heartland.

In Vietnam, the new train journey will have adventures like a speed boat tour to the Cu Chi Tunnels in Ho Chi Minh City, a Jeep safari through the limestone landscapes of Ninh Binh and afternoon tea in the Shanghai Tower.

Just in time for the European summer, Maison de Sabré has reimagined resortwear with its Raffia Collection. The collection uses heritage weaving techniques and is crafted entirely by hand using strands of naturally dried raffia palm leaf.

“This collection took 70 days to produce and that is just the weaving process, not the production of the natural raffia itself,” said Omar Sabré,

CEO and co-founder. Meanwhile Antler, the 110-year-old British brand, has released a new range of casual travel bags. The slimline urban tote is part of the Urban Core Collection and its square design is so it can sit happily on your check-in suitcase.

Antler urban tote, $149, antler.com.au; Maison de Sabré raffia small tote, $399, maisondesabre.com

Holidays are all about freedom here

Luxury in the Cook Islands isn’t only about 5-star hotels - it’s the luxury of having pristine beaches all to yourselves, swimming with turtles, and dining where most meals are accompanied by sparkling water!

Ready for the Cook Islands? Freedom awaits with direct flights from Australia with Jetstar.

e latest and hottest hotel and resort openings to get on your radar

SLS Barcelona

Sprawling and set to make a splash, SLS Barcelona joins the city’s growing collection of lavish stays.

An undulating neon-pink runway entrance sets the tone to a stay that’s equal parts hacienda and haute couture. Six highconcept restaurants range from Gaudiinspired tapas restaurant L’Anxova Divina to otherworldly cocktail bar Kyara and the sprawling, day-to-night rooftop cabana club Cosmico.

Monarto Safari Resort

Monarto Safari Park o ers the largest open-range safari outside of Africa.

The park’s new hotel brings the luxury lodge experience to the South Australian savannah with 78 spacious rooms and 20 glamping tents offering views over the brand-new Wild Africa precinct’s Hakuna Matata-worthy waterhole, with exclusive dawn safaris, two swimming pools and a day spa that’s worth going wild for.

InterContinental Halong Bay Resort

Framed by jagged karsts and emerald waters,

InterContinental Halong Bay Resort arrives with curated experiences for culture seekers and nature lovers alike.

Architecture informed by the region’s dragon-laced folklore heralds an impressive lobby that’s inspired by Vietnam’s traditional bamboo basket boats. Guests can finish days spent hiking, snorkelling or kayaking at the rooftop house of Japanese Roku & Sky Bar – home to the region’s first and only saké library.

1 Hotel Melbourne

1 Hotel Melbourne stands gleaming above the Yarra River and heritage-listed Goods Shed No. 5.

Recycled materials, native greenery and a farm-to-fork dining program give 1 Hotels’ long-awaited first Australian property serious eco-cred. Sustainability doesn’t come at the expense of luxury: expect sweeping waterfront views, the state-of-the-art Bamford Wellness Spa and forage-focused classic cocktails at Crane Bar and Lounge.

Mondrian Gold Coast

Legendary surf destination Burleigh Beach is now home to Mondrian’s rst Australian outpost, Mondrian Gold Coast.

Alongside expansive rooms, studios and suites, guests can opt for the twin-floor Beach House, with plunge pools, full kitchens and direct beach access. Capri meets the Coast at aperitivo hotspot LiTO, while on the hotel’s third floor Haven grills wood-fired seafood to perfection.

MONARTO SAFARI RESORT

MONDRIAN GOLD COAST

INTERCONTINENTAL HALONG BAY RESORT

SLS BARCELONA

Urban sprawl meets the Cerro de la Silla (Saddle Hill) in the north east of Mexico.

Photo: Overview

e storyteller and the showstopper: Dublin and Chicago bring the heat in their own ways. e Irish capital is all charm – from its pints and pubs to tales that stretch back centuries. e Windy City? Big, bold and loud – towering steel skyline, hot dog stands with strict topping rules, and music that hits hard. One city leans into history, the other into hustle. Pick your ghter.

CHICAGO

From deep-dish pizza to deeper roots, Chicago is where legends are made. Uncover mobster myths, icons of improv, and neighbourhoods over owing with personality. Whether you come for the food, the beats, or the skyline, one thing is certain: Chicago doesn’t do boring.

DRINK

e Green Mill

Chicago may not have invented jazz, but it made it feel at home. Head to one of Chicago’s many jazz clubs and bars to pair smooth stylings with even smoother sips. The Green Mill – once a haunt of Al Capone – hosts big-name acts and local favourites. Andy’s Jazz Club is another Chicago institution and delivers nightly jazz sets, while Constellation (in the old Viaduct Theater) leans into more experiential tunes.

SEE

Chicago Riverwalk

Explore this pedestrian-only promenade by foot, by boat, by bicycle. Stretching from Lake Michigan to Lake Street, it is lined with relaxed eateries and bars, public artworks, museums and monuments. Take it in from a cruise or kayak to get your bearings, then hit the pavement to see sights up close.

NEIGHBOURHOOD e Loop

This area puts first-time visitors in the thick of things – Millennium and Maggie Daley Parks, the Art Institute of Chicago and the Chicago Theatre all call the Loop home. Dining options run the gamut from casual breakfast spots and upscale steakhouses to buzzy brunch restaurants along Michigan Avenue.

EAT

STAY

Chicago Athletic Association

Once a prestigious members-only enclave, this landmark combines the historic with the handsome. Behind the striking Venetian Gothic facade, find a year-round rooftop restaurant, moody drinking dens, in-room dining from Shake Shack and a golf simulation space. Rooms and suites are elegant, nods to the building’s heritage throughout. For something special, check out a Holy Cow Suite.

Vito & Nick’s

Deep-dish may be one of Chicago’s culinary calling cards, but it’s not the only slice worth knowing. Tavern-style pizza – aka “Chicago thin crust” – has a crispy base and is cut into snackable squares (or triangles). Vito & Nick’s has been slinging pizza since the 1940s, topping their secret-recipe dough with Italian sausage, pepperoni, cheese and giardiniera (relish). This no-frills South Side institution makes eating like a local a piece of pie.

FROM TOP: the downtown Chicago skyline; the Chicago Athletic Association. OPPOSITE PAGE: the dramatic Irish scenery; Anantara The Marker Dublin.

Stay in Chicago

DUBLIN

Dublin is a rogue of a city. Equal parts mischief and magic, the Irish capital is a cocktail of rebellious history, Georgian grace and literary legends. From shamrocks to street art, Guinness pours to gallery walls, Dublin has the soul of a bard and the heart of a pint-slinging punk, all wrapped up in unapologetic craic. Sláinte!

STAY

Anantara e Marker Dublin

Located in Dublin’s Docklands precinct, this sleek hotel overlooks the waterfront of Grand Canal Square. Rooms and suites have generous spacing and floor-to-ceiling windows. There is a lauded restaurant, spa with infinity pool, and rooftop bar and terrace flaunting 360-degree views of Dublin’s skyline.

DRINK

e Cobblestone

In a city of live music, The Cobblestone’s resistance to change, tagline of “a drinking pub with a music problem” and devotion to nightly trad sessions stand out. Performances are taken so seriously, those wanting a yarn are ushered to the opposite end of the bar. Guinness is the go-to beverage.

14 Henrietta Street

Discover 300 years of Dublin history at a single address. Located on one of the city’s oldest Georgian streets, 14 Henrietta Street tells Ireland’s story through the lives of those who lived within its walls – from high society to tenement families. Tours are immersive, emotive and deeply human.

NEIGHBOURHOOD

Howth

An easy day trip from central Dublin, Howth is a small fishing village-turnedsuburb that feels more far-flung than it actually is. Think wildflower-covered sea cliffs, waterfront walks and picnics along the pretty pier. Markets are held every weekend and there are great local pubs.

Stay in Dublin

EAT

Sun ower Chinese

Dublin’s spice bag is the love child of takeaway cravings and Celtic comfort food: a golden mix of crisp-fried chicken pieces, chips, fiery seasoning and curry sauce. Head to Sunflower Chinese in Templeogue for the original – first served here in 2010. Since then, other contenders for the city’s best include Kimmage’s Red Rice, Mr. Chen’s and San Sab.

GREECE

Hellenic hero

Amidst olive groves and stories from ancient history, Belinda Jackson discovers that the Mandarin Oriental’s debut Greek property is born from the myths and provenance of the Peloponnese peninsula.

It’s not often you’re served a dish inspired by a naval battle; even rarer is being served that victory dish while overlooking the battleground.

The historic site is the sparkling Bay of Navarino, and the dish is lamb Navarin. It was invented the day an armada including French ships drove the Ottoman ships out of this beautiful bay, a decisive moment in 1827 during Greece’s War of Independence.

“This dish was created here, just two kilometres from us,” says Bertrand Valegeas, executive chef of the Mandarin Oriental Costa Navarino. “Centuries later, we’re taking it back,” he adds, as the classic French ragout is served with all-local produce.

And what a beautiful battleground it is. The bay is both the backdrop and the hero of the Mandarin Oriental Costa Navarino, now in its second season here on the Peloponnese peninsula, to the very south of mainland Greece.

The bay is genuinely mesmerising. I watch as yachts loop lazily around its curve from a lounger at the beach club, with Greek salad and spritzer in hand. I watch the sun set over its islands from the rooftop pool at the spa, my skin soft from the olive sauna, massaged with the oils and herbs drawn from the

land around me. And I listen to the rise and fall of its waters, which lull me to sleep each night, my pool villa’s doors open, inviting the scents of the land into my room of stone and timber.

Built from local stone, the hotel is totally embedded into its landscape. The resort’s reception is at the top of a hill, and each step down leads you to a new discovery – the Olivera restaurant where I have my lamb Navarin epiphany; a relaxation pool; the spa and wellness centre; and the 99 villas hidden in the hillside, rooftops landscaped with 2700 olive trees and local shrubs for privacy, soundproofing and temperature control.

Another evening, 12 of us are lucky enough to take a seat at Pizza Sapienza, a tiny pizza degustation experience from the Michelinstarred Mandarin Oriental Tokyo chef Daniele Cason. Here, in the warm night, we work our way through nine courses of exquisite pizza adorned with cauliflower and caviar, six cheeses with truffle honey, or the bonanza dolce pizza with local yoghurt and berries.

Along the way, I’m getting an education in Greek wines: moschofilero, malagousia, vidiano, xinomavro – my vocabulary expanding with every glass.

OPPOSITE: the pool at Mandarin Oriental Costa Navarino. THIS PAGE FROM TOP: the amazing dining included lamb Navarin, named after a famous battle; the views; the Mandarin Oriental Costa Navarino is built from local stone.

OPPOSITE: the Mandarin Oriental Costa Navarino is embedded in its surroundings.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: playing a round of golf; looking out at the Bay of Navarino; the public pool; and a plunge pool.

Book your stay now

Mandarin Oriental Costa Navarino

The 99-villa hotel is set on Navarino Bay, part of the greater Costa Navarino resort, which includes four golf courses lined by olive trees and the Navarino Agora, a resort village with additional dining, shopping and adventure activities. Located four hours’ drive from Athens, guests can opt to fly from Athens to Kalamata airport to meet a hotel transfer. The hotel closes each winter (November–March).

Castle by the sea

Early one morning, I meet Anna from the wellness centre for a lazy jog around the hotel and the surrounding golf courses. Ours is the newest and top hotel in the greater Costa Navarino resort, which includes a marina, golf courses designed by Hall of Fame golfer Bernhard Langer, José María Olazábal and Robert Trent Jones Jnr, as well as Westin and W hotels.

And each morning, before I go exploring by e-bike or further afield by car to find Bronze Age tombs or palaces of antiquity, I’m offered an agonising choice of breakfast dishes. Should I choose the classic Greek breakfast pastry of bougatsa? Kagianas, the local take on scrambled eggs, with the addition of syglino (smoked local pork)? Maybe I should try the open, boat-shaped peinirli pie with yellow kasseri sheep’s cheese? Whatever I choose, I always add a serve of Greece’s simplest and most perfect breakfast dish: a dreamy goat’s-milk yoghurt, twice strained

and served with fresh honeycomb and a handful of walnuts.

According to Bertrand – who himself is married into a Greek family – 75 per cent of the produce served is local or from the Peloponnese. The remainder is from Greece, with few aberrations such as beef or chocolate, part of the hotel’s extraordinary drive for sustainability and authenticity.

And if you were following online reviewers, the drawcard beach for visitors to the Messenia peninsula is Voidokilia Beach, also known as Omega beach. Thumping my hire car along roads so corroded that locals wave me over to caution me of the potholes ahead, I finally understand the name. The beach’s perfect curve mimics the last letter in the Greek alphabet. It is busy with northern Europeans in various shades of crimson or leather brown. Far better, I think, is the almost empty beach at Methoni, on the other side of the bay.

It’s reached via the chi-chi village of Gialova and its string of humble, waterfront cafes and busier Pylos, with streets are so narrow they’re a danger to rental cars’ wing mirrors. Finally, I reach my destination, Greece’s largest castle. Tousled by soft sea breezes, the 13th-century Methoni castle’s turreted watchtower is connected to the main keep by a stone bridge that is doused by the sea at high tide.

Built when this peninsula was under the Venetian Empire in the early 1200s, I’d choose Methoni over the far more ancient Nestor’s Palace for a day visit, no matter Nestor’s vaulted place in the Trojan Wars and Homeric sagas. It is impossibly romantic.

“It’s incredible, yet almost nobody’s here,” says the Englishman I meet on the turret. “Few signs, no maps… it’s like they just don’t know what they’ve got.”

I’m happy to keep it that way.

ONE NIGHT IN...

Brisbane

e Queensland capital is on a roll as it steams towards the Olympics, with on-point designer shopping, a burgeoning food scene and a Fortitude Valley party precinct that’s buzzier than ever.

Here’s your planner for the perfect night in Brisbane.

2pm Stop, drop and shop

Hotel X is one of the brightest stars among Brisbane’s new wave of boutique hotels. Sitting high on a hill little more than a stone’s throw from the city and party precinct Fortitude Valley, its 146 rooms are opulent hideaways with timber floors, recessed feature lighting, mosaic tiling and Justin Nicholas artwork. All feature Karl Lagerfeld amenities and Lavazza coffee machines, with the suites including Dyson and GHD hair appliances.

Drop your bags and freshen up with a dip in the hotel’s sun-kissed rooftop pool before wandering down Robertson Street to James Street, a leafy shopping precinct lined with boutiques from Bassike, Bec + Bridge, Gail Sorronda, Silk Laundry, Venroy, Natasha Schweitzer, Camargue and many, many more. Stop at recently refurbished Cru Bar for a drop from its award-winning wine list, or a woodfired snack at easy, breezy Emme, or the darker, moodier Essa.

ABOVE: the Brisbane skyline OPPOSITE, CLOCKWISE

FROM TOP: Howard Smith Wharves; Central restaurant; Savile Row cocktail bar; Milquetoast.

Explore Hotel X

5pm Eat (and drink) in

Hotel X is also blessed with two cracking eateries: Iris Rooftop Bar & Restaurant and Bisou Bisou. Hit the former for cocktails and Spanish-inspired snacks backed by stunning sunset views of the CBD, before slipping downstairs to go large on Bisou Bisou’s approachable French cooking: think rotisserie chicken, steak frites and duck leg cassoulet in a moody Paris-inspired dining room. Afterwards, stroll up Malt Street and you’ll be greeted with eye-popping clifftop views of Brisbane’s towering Story Bridge

as it begins to light up in the dusk. Take the lift just across Bowen Terrace down to Howard Smith Wharves to discover one of the city’s best entertainment precincts, with its excellent collection of restaurants and bars gathered in the shadow of the bridge above. Sip on a frothy at Felons Brewing Co. or sneak up the stairs of the former Water Police headquarters to Stan’s Lounge for cocktails and DJs spinning rare vinyl on a vintage sound system.

11pm Live the laneway life

Turn right out of Central and walk a couple more blocks to discover the CBD’s brilliant laneway bars. Milquetoast is one of the picks right now, George Curtis and James Horsfall turning an old garage hidden off Elizabeth Street into a rumpus-room like space with moody lighting and homely found furniture. Wine is the star here with James overseeing a 70-bottle list that focuses on small

12am Move past midnight

Fortitude Valley is where Brisbane’s bright young things choose to play once the clock strikes twelve. Hit Suzie Wong’s Good Time Bar, a grungy, Hawaiian surf shack-inspired boozer set inside a heritage-listed shopfront. Five nights a week it serves up hip-shaking live music alongside a giddy collection of signature cocktails – try a Ch-Ch-Ch-Cherry Bomb (Martell VS cognac, cherry, cola, chocolate bitters, cherry foam) or a BubbleGun Shot (Nusa Cana tropical island rum, bubblegum and lime) – or opt for freewheeling shared drinks such as a Raspberry Fields Forever or a Purple Haze. Afterwards, hit the dance floor and shake the night away.

producers, grower champagnes and other limited allocations, but there’s also a cocktail list compiled using higher end spirits, and a martini menu that showcases different local distilleries.

Consider this a two-hander with Alice, a neon-lit, rock-fuelled bolthole just across the way that pours ice-cold beer and has a creative, whisk(e)y-soaked cocktail list.

9pm Discover a slice of Hong Kong in Brisbane

From Howard Smith Wharves, it’s an easy 15-minute stroll along the river and onto Queen Street to Central, one of the city’s hottest new restaurants. Descend a hidden staircase and you’ll find a precisely designed Hong Kong-inspired restaurant and bar.

A counter seat looking down on the kitchen is the play here as you snack on chef Benny Lam’s dim sum and choose from Peter Marchant’s killer wine list, much of which can be sampled by the half-carafe or Coravin.

2am Seek out a hidden nightcap

Across Ann Street from Suzie Wong’s is Savile Row, a cocktail bar that hides in plain sight behind a bright orange door. Step inside and you’ll find yourself in a moody love letter to refined mixology. The space itself is all timber panelling, vintage wallpaper and exposed brick, five levels wrapped around an enormous chandelier. On the back bar is more than 1,000 bottles of spirits. Pick something from an ever-changing list or ask the gun bar team to offer their twist on a classic – either way, you can’t lose.

Tastiest place on earth

ANAHEIM

Disneyland Resort looms large over the Orange County city of Anaheim but, as Paul Chai discovers, there is plenty of Micky-Mouse-ears-optional dining, drinks and fun to be found around this vibrant US town.

I’m in Anaheim, California, surrounded by superheroes of all capes and sizes, but I am not where you think. The rides, parades and pageantry of Disneyland Resort are down the road but I am in the centre of town at a foodie funpark housed in a former orange-processing plant now known as the Anaheim Packing District.

The Unsung Brewing Company taproom – in the MAKE Building – looks like the bedroom of a spoiled teenager. The walls are covered in murals of comic book heroes and villains, rare action figures line the shelves and a life-size Boba Fett proudly stands next to Han Solo frozen in carbonite; furniture is daubed with quotes from

famous villains like The Joker and Silver Surfer.

The brews are full-flavoured affairs going BOFF! THWACK! KAPOW! on my tongue and they have nerdy names like Photonuclear and J.A.R.V.I.S., named for Iron Man’s virtual assistant.

This is our first stop on a progressive dinner across the Anaheim Packing District that includes the MAKE Building, the Packing House and Farmer’s Park. This thriving hub is located in central Anaheim, the most populous city in Orange County, and is changing the way people think about this destination – often seen as second fiddle to The Happiest Place on Earth.

OPPOSITE: the entrance to the Anaheim Packing House THIS PAGE FROM TOP: stalls in the Packing House; drinks at Unsung Brewing Company’s comic book-inspired brewery; neon lighting pointing the way to drinks.

Next up is Pali Wine Co., next door to Unsung. Pali is all Scandisimplicity with wooden wine barrels as decoration but there is plenty of complexity to the wines on o er.

I opt for a tasting flight that includes the peachy-nutty Pali Vineyard chardonnay and the Summit, a pinot noir with notes of candied cherry; all the wines are grown in nearby Santa Barbara County. I also try starters of shrimp ceviche steeped in lime and passionfruit and a charcuterie board stacked higher than a Disneyland rollercoaster.

Across the road, The Anaheim Packing House recently turned 10 years old, and it

has been feeding locals some of the best produce since it opened. Across two floors with a forest of hanging plants covering the industrial-white ceiling, the Packing House is an open-plan market with vendors like the Pique-Nique cheese and charcuterie bar, The Iron Press brewery (try the Michelada with pickle beer) and The Chippy Fish & Grill. But I am just window shopping as I have two more courses to get to.

FROM TOP: the MAKE building is home to the Unsung Brewing Company and the Pali Wine Co.; a tasting paddle at Pali; inside the Anaheim Packing House.

More than meets the eye

Leading on from the Packing House is Farmer’s Park, a city green space that also happens to be home to a fine diner. Outdoor fires flicker to life and strings of fairy lights come on at dusk as we enter the al fresco space of Poppy & Seed and take our wicker seats.

Chef Michael Reed, who also owns Poppy & Rose, a brunch spot in Downtown LA, says that the city’s food scene is often unfairly thought of as being dominated by chains and Disneyland.

“But if you know where to look, you’ll find some truly unique and exquisite dining experiences,” Michael says. “Spots like

Farmer’s Park and the Packing House are just the beginning. You’ll also find stand-out destinations like RISE Rooftop Lounge and Strong Water, each bringing something special to the table. There’s a lot more to Anaheim’s food scene than meets the eye – we’ve got some really exciting things cooking.”

Michael, and partner Kwini, are charming hosts at our stop at Poppy & Seed and make this progressive-dinner course almost as filling as a whole meal with signature duck tacos, grilled octopus on bean ragu and black garlic puree and ceviche with scallops, bass and shrimp.

It is a super-human effort to pull ourselves away from the food and banter at Poppy & Seed but just next door is our final stop on the progressive meal: En Familia modern Mexican kitchen. It’s a bright and welcoming space with a central bar that dishes out great twists on classic cocktails. I opt for a Tropicali: mature tequila, Mexican brandy, coconut and pineapple juice, topped with Chinese five spice. Think a Pina Colada if it moved to Ensenada.

Our last stop features barbacoa potato tacos, bluefin tuna aguachile and strips of medium-rare Japanese ribeye. It’s true of Anaheim that you are never far from a Chickfil-A or a Raising Cane’s but when you have this incredible collection of food vendors all in one spot – and at reasonable prices – I don’t know how the fast food joints survive.

Exiting En Familia, and casting an eye back over Farmer’s Park to the Packing House and MAKE, I wish my superpower was to go back in time so I could do it all again.

Hyatt Regency Orange

County

The soaring atrium of Hyatt Regency Orange County is constantly full of excited families doing the two-kilometre shuffle down the road to The Happiest Place on Earth. Newly renovated rooms are huge and look out onto the atrium with a mini-fridge, 65-inch flatscreen and king-size bed. Downstairs is a full-service Starbucks to fuel the morning trip to Disneyland and there is the onsite OC Brewhouse to chill at after a busy day out.

Book your stay now

THIS PAGE FROM TOP: Michael and Kwini Reed offer old-fashioned hospitality at Poppy & Seed; Poppy & Seed’s famous duck tacos are a taste of Anaheim’s fantastic dining scene.

Leading the charge

On a South Australian road trip to e Louise in the Barossa Valley and the iconic Southern Ocean Lodge on Kangaroo Island, Cameron Daddo discovers that driving a Polestar 3 means the journey is every bit as relaxing as the destination.

Australia is a land of vast distance and rugged terrain, and the most beautiful parts of the country are sometimes a very long drive away. The Aussie road trip is a rite of passage, and the maturation of the EV market means it is now possible to hit the road in an electric vehicle knowing that you have plenty of places to recharge.

Polestar is the leader in luxury electric vehicles with sleek Swedish design, technical innovations and plenty of sustainable solutions for EV drivers, and they are perfect for any Australian road trip. Cameron Daddo set out to test the Polestar 3 on a trip from Adelaide to Kangaroo Island’s Southern Ocean Lodge.

Luxury in the vines

Cameron is escaping the city to recharge and unwind on a smooth EV journey to two of Australia’s iconic stays.

First stop is The Louise in the Barossa Valley, accommodation that evokes the quiet elegance of a trip to Southern Europe. Villa-style suites are hidden among the vineyards, each with private courtyards looking out on the vines.

The first thing Cam noticed in the Polestar 3 was the peace and quiet inside the cabin, perfect for enjoying the country roads. “The journey was certainly enhanced by the quietness of the cabin and this, coupled with the sound system, was so dynamic and lush; you close the door, and the noise of the world just disappears,” Cameron says. “The Polestar 3 is spacious and everything about the interior is classy. I love the feeling of luxury that it conveys.”

What makes The Louise the perfect place to stay is that you can recharge not only your batteries by using your villa as a base for exploring the wineries, restaurants and cute villages of the Barossa, but your Polestar, too, with an onsite charging station.

Cam enjoyed a fabulous dinner at The Louise and a restful night before heading off to Wonderground Gallery to enjoy some local art, taste wines at cellar doors and simply take in the scenery from the Polestar’s panoramic roof.

Island of adventure

Next stop on the road trip is the breathtaking Kangaroo Island, taking the Polestar 3 across the water on the Sealink car ferry.

“Southern Ocean Lodge is the pioneer of experiential luxury on the island, from its world-class dining to its convenient onsite EV charging,” Cam says. Southern Ocean Lodge was recently reopened and returned to its former glory after devastating fires on the island. The new-look lodge still has the same incredible spot, right on the Kangaroo Island coastline with the mesmerising views of the Southern Ocean, and offers 25 luxurious suites along the east coast.

For Cameron, arriving at the Lodge was the end of a relaxing day of driving, and not just because of the Polestar 3’s massage seat function – he also took comfort in knowing every Polestar is built with safety as priority, but not at the expense of performance.

“My favourite aspect of driving the Polestar 3 was its acceleration and responsiveness to the road,” Cameron says. “It was a really exciting car to drive and yet so smooth.”

At Southern Ocean Lodge, Cameron tasted wine at sunset, enjoyed the unique views and took time out in the huge suites. He also hit the road again to explore the rugged beauty of Flinders Chase National Park, checking out the Remarkable Rocks, the Admirals Arch and of course, the local fur seal colony. But, as Cam says, it was “really an excuse to drive the Polestar 3 some more”.

“The pleasure of driving the Polestar 3 enhanced every aspect of my luxury escape,” he says. “From the moment I sat in the vehicle and closed the door, to the simplicity of driving and feeling connected to environment we drove through – we had so much light from the roof and clear vision. Being in such a luxurious car allowed me to recharge and fully enjoy and embrace all that I was seeing and feeling on this road trip.”

Drive securely with Luxury Escapes

In partnership with Polestar, Luxury Escapes empowers travellers to embark on their own road trip, with new search functionality that allows for the filtering of stays with onsite EV charging. This is the ultimate peace of mind for every traveller seeking their own EV road trip, knowing both you and your car can recharge on arrival.

Familya air

On a multigenerational trip to Bali, Sue Wallace introduces her grandkids to a di erent culture and new avours, but the best part is simply taking time out to spend time with each other.

NUSA DUA

Sounds of rhythmic gamelan (local percussion music) puncture the air, while graceful Balinese teenage girls perform a traditional dance with exaggerated finger movements at Nusa Dua’s Ayodya Resort Bali, where the fragrant smell of frangipani lingers and candles flicker.

Even after the flight from Australia, our grandchildren – Theo and Artie, both nearly four; and Sibella and Marley, nearly seven –are simply mesmerised by the dancing.

After being greeted with icy cold towels and colourful tropical drinks, we discover the girls in the nearby Bale Banjar, a Balinese cultural hub, with flowers in their hair and a neat sash tied around their waists, beaming as they learn some dance steps and gentle gestures.

Welcome to the world of multigenerational travel, where the sheer joy of introducing and watching grandchildren’s reactions to a new culture is absorbing, endearing and entertaining.

This eight-day holiday for our extended family has been a year in the planning, which has been half the fun, with regular grandchildren Face Time chats and updates on the pocket money they plan to spend at the Bali markets.

With 13 travellers in tow, two grandparents, six parents and five children including sixmonth-old Florence, plus 52 forms to fill out – four per person no matter what the age – it’s taken some organising.

Fortunately, everything has run smoothly with no hiccups. We opted for an all-inclusive package, so it was paid for before we left, with no hidden extras.

As well as lots of swimming in the two huge pools with splashes galore, plus dips in the palm tree-fringed azure Indian Ocean, it’s the one-on-one time with our grandchildren that makes this holiday so memorable.

Multigenerational travel is a growing trend as grandparents, parents and their offspring opt to spend time together. NSW family psychologist Sarah Shuter of Capaz Health, Port Macquarie says it is generally very beneficial for family members of all ages.

“We all share a fundamental need to interact and feel connected as humans, and time away, whether it’s a few days or a few hours, can improve mental health, increase happiness, reduce stress and form stronger bonds,” she says. “It assists with children’s adaptability and resilience and promotes selfconfidence through building skills such as problem solving and communication.”

OPPOSITE: the reflective pool at Nusa Dua’s Ayodya Resort Bali. THIS PAGE FROM TOP: a multigenerational holiday offers the opportunity for adults to watch kids learn about a new culture; they can also explore together.

Time to reconnect

During our week there are lots of lively discussions and many questions.

“Why are there so many gods in Bali?” asks Marley.

The intriguing stone figures draped in black and white material which represent harmony and balance, prompt Sibella to ask, “Why are the statues wearing dresses?”

All four are fascinated by the small woven boxes of flowers and incense (daily offerings to the gods) and carefully sidestep them.

We laugh a lot, tell silly jokes, play games, and there are a few tears, especially when a favourite snow dome is smashed. Trying to replace it in Bali proves impossible, but promises of finding another back home, restore a smile.

As well as visits to the kids’ club and family activities, we venture for dinner to Jimbaran Bay, once a lazy fishing village and now packed with seafood restaurants.

At the fabulous Waterbom Bali in Kuta we ride some of the 24 slides and lounge on orange floats on the Lazy River attraction.

We are spoilt with a shady gazebo that accommodates 16 and have a personal concierge, Madie, who takes our dining orders and spa bookings. It’s sates and nasi goreng for all, and foot and back massages.

We also get a day pass for the The RitzCarlton, Bali at Nusa Dua and enjoy pool and beach time. Our grandchildren love the Ritz Kids, where they play games, do craft activities and have fun while we all relax.

FROM TOP: poolside at Ayodya Resort in Bali; hints as to why Bali is called the Island of the Gods; the author’s grandchildren enjoy a meal at Ayodya; a classic Balinese sunset OPPOSITE: the natural surrounds of Ayodya encourage reflection.

Explore Ayodya

Chilling is what our adult children have enjoyed most about our holiday. Beach walks, gym workouts, romantic dinners, spa sessions and shopping have topped their list while they assure us they are “forever grateful” to have time by themselves and together.

Most nights we dine at 6pm and there’s plenty of choice, with five restaurants at the sprawling Ayodya Resort, which features beautiful cascading water gardens and Bali artifacts. We love the Ayodya Beach Club & Grill which overlooks the sand at Mengiat Beach. After dinner we discover Movies Under the Stars and caramel popcorn.

The Japanese restaurant Genji is another family favourite, and we are entertained at the teppanyaki table, where skilled chefs show off their keen knife skills. We assure the grandchildren this is one place it’s okay to throw food.

Indian cuisine features at Ganesha ek Sanskriti, but it’s the buffet breakfast at the Waterfall Restaurant, overlooking the lagoon with lush tropical gardens, that they love most. The girls enjoy a table for two and return with plates piled with tropical fruit and chocolate-sprinkled donuts.

There are so many special holiday moments: when Marley joins me in the pool for water aerobics, a girls’ trip to the spa to have their nails painted and hair braided; for the boys, it’s all about pool time.

It doesn’t take them long to spend their pocket money on flip-flops, jewellery and sarongs at the nearby market and trinkets for school show-and-tell.

Weeks later on Face Time I ask what they loved most about their holiday. “It’s the donuts for breakfast and time with you,” says Marley, who then performs an impromptu Balinese dance.

PERTH

Local treasure

For over a century, Barrack Street has been home to Perth’s biggest rallies, marches, riots and royal visits. Today, in a city famous for Sunday shutdowns, Petition is open seven days a week, cementing its reputation as one of Perth’s best dining spots. We pull up a table with head chef Jessica Roe.

Long neglected but never forgotten, Perth’s Old Treasury Buildings – erected in 1874 with no expense spared – had their glorious return in late 2015. COMO The Treasury’s expansive reimagining of the space (now called The State Buildings) transformed it into an epicurean playground, with a chocolatier, underground Thai eatery, post office turned Italian osteria, expansive wine merchant and nationally acclaimed rooftop restaurant Wildflower. Enter from Barrack Street to discover one of the complex’s most beloved venues: chef Jessica Roe’s all-day operation, Petition.

Head inside and you’ll find yourself between the building’s original walls (dilapidated, shrewdly industrial and charming), time-worn timber floorboards and an open kitchen.

“Growing up in Noggerup, a small country town (population 99) is the foundation for the kind of kitchens I want to create,” Jessica says. “Starting my career in its family-owned

pub – where everyone looks after each other and no job’s below doing – turned me into the kind of leader I am today.”

This approach is one secret behind Petition’s success, but there’s another: Perth’s incredible local produce. “Having such amazing fresh produce on our doorstep and readily available is a privilege we take for granted,” she says. “But it’s a privilege I want to highlight with Petition.”

Current favourites include chunky ham hock croquettes with apricot and cranberry, amberjack ceviche in mango salsa and salt-baked beetroot topped with macadamia nuts and radicchio. The drinks menu pilfers from Western Australia’s beer and wine heavyweights, the latter carefully curated by COMO The Treasury’s director of wine, Emma Farrelly.

With Perth’s mild winter well underway, Petition is prepared, rolling out a seasonal breakfast menu: think banana bread that’s decadently loaded with whipped ricotta, berry compote and pistachios, and an apple crumble riff on the classic French toast. “Even though menu changes are stressful – and a lot of work – they’re also vital,” Jessica says. “At Petition it’s a must that we keep as fresh and in-season as possible.” To this diner, the subtext’s clear: some things are worth fighting for.

Lotus, Perth

“Such a beautiful venue with amazing staff, even better food and one of the best value set menus in the city,” says Jessica. This modern South-East Asian eatery, tucked within inner-city dining precinct The Beaufort, serves a spicy, eclectic menu that’s meant to be shared.

Beerfarm, Margaret River region

“Amazing, fresh food with the beers – and views – to match.” Make the trip on a Sunday to experience one of the state’s best American BBQ, cooked low, slow and with fresh brews on tap.

Burnt Barrel, Geraldton

“Smoked meats, good views and cocktails to top it off – what’s better?” asks Jessica. Calling itself an “outback brewbq”, Burnt Barrel’s another local spot that serves good vibes in abundance.

Shui, Perth

“An amazing venue with a regularly changing menu that’s sure to entice the senses and taste buds.” Kingfish spring rolls and charred brussels sprouts with gochujang: Shui delivers incredible Asian food with a modern Australian twist.

Sweet potato and red wine caramel tart

“With an oat and macadamia crumb, this dish won’t sound like it’s for everyone, but when you take the chance and take the first bite, you understand why it’s the dish that helped me get second place in the Nestle Golden Chef’s Hat Awards. I haven’t brought it into the fold at Petition yet – but it might make an appearance soon.”

A SERENE ESCAPE IN PARADISE

DISCOVER THE TRANQUILITY OF KAYUMANIS JIMBARAN PRIVATE ESTATE & SPA

Tucked away in a quiet corner of Bali’s southern coa st, Kayumanis Jimbaran offers a peaceful sanctuary where privacy, comfort, and genui ne hospitality take center stage. Inspired by the spirit of a traditional Balinese vil lage, this exclusive estate is nestled among graceful coconut palms—just minutes from the a irport and a short stroll to Jimbaran Bay, known for its stunning sunsets and bea chfront seafood dining.

Kayumanis Jimbaran is a tranquil estate of 20 private villas, each with a walled garden, pool, and open-plan design that blends with nature. With 24-hour butler service, guests enjoy personalized touches—from in-villa dining to curated Spa and travel experiences. At Kayumanis Resto, refined Indonesian dishes made from fresh, local ingredients complete the serene escape.

Explore Top of the South

Take a holiday in a region of New Zealand that is usually reserved for New Zealanders. e Top of the South shows there is more to NZ than Queenstown and Auckland. is is the kind of itinerary showing the best of our neighbour, minus the crowds, so you can travel like a local.

Taking a road trip across the Top of the South is like a New Zealand greatest hits package. You are driving past rugged mountain ranges, watching the surf crash onto golden sandy beaches and cruising past alpine lakes and lush green forests. This pocket of New Zealand also has some of the country’s finest accommodation and fresh seafood, homegrown produce and top-shelf wines that people travel the Tasman to sample.

This is a region where you don’t rush things, where you take the time to meet local people, engage with local culture and simply soak up the natural beauty.

In Nelson Tasman you can paddle a traditional Māori waka, you can cook your own freshly caught fish straight out of the waters of Marlborough Sounds and relax in natural thermal pools in Hammer Springs. The Top of the South is truly a place to savour.

Get back to nature at Nelson Tasman

This region is where you can truly immerse yourself in nature. Nelson Tasman contains three national parks with verdant forests and pristine beaches and one of the best, and most exciting, ways to see it is via a traditional Māori waka (canoe). At Waka Abel Tasman you can paddle along the coast at Split Apple Rock/Toka Ngawhā, enjoying the amazing landscape while experiencing what it was like for the first settlers from Polynesia to take to the sea in these dual-hulled canoes.

Many travellers know the thrill of seeing their first whale in the wild, but in Kaikōura you get the chance to discover the inspiration for Moby Dick, the elusive sperm whale. This Top of the South town is the whale-watching capital of New Zealand and you can spot the mighty mammals on a boat trip, a plane ride or even from a helicopter.

Known as “the coast with the most”, Kaikōura is just a two-and-ahalf hour drive from Christchurch and in addition to watching whales you can explore the Hut Hike on farmland in manuka and tussock country, get your thrills on a zipline at Kaikōura EcoZip Adventures or learn about the region’s heritage with the vivid stories brought to life at the Kaikōura Museum.

Unwind at Hanmer Springs

This small town has a big reputation for relaxation and is the home of New Zealand’s largest geothermal water park. Unwind in one of the 22 pools warmed by Mother Nature where you can pick from an adultsonly chill out to the family fun of epic water slides.

When you are all funned out, Hamner Springs Village is also home to great food and wine, from the beer and bites of Monteith’s Brewery Bar to the modern NZ cuisine of No. 31 restaurant.

You can also explore the local forests and mountains with walking, hiking and mountain biking trails to suit all abilities, or explore the Waiau river with jet boating and rafting experiences.

Cruise the Marlborough Sounds

The ocean playground of the Marlborough Sounds has soaring cliffs but it is also home to some of the best seafood in the world. On a Malborough Tour Company Seafood Odyssea Cruise you sail through Queen Charlotte Sound/Tōtaranui and sample local salmon and Greenshell mussels. On a Katabatic Charters cruise through the Sounds you can catch fish and cook them for family and friends aboard your vessel. And all the while you have the dramatic backdrop of the Sounds where the sea has drowned huge swathes of land and the Māori believe the pointed cliffs to be the prows of sunken waka Pair it all with a glass of sauvignon (it's the sauvignon capital of NZ).

Enjoy "slow travel" on the TranzAlpine Train

New Zealand’s Southern Alps offers a “slow travel” trip aboard the TranzAlpine Train. Travelling west across the Canterbury Plains, the train languidly climbs stunning gorges and river valleys of the Waimakariri River. You then travel to the Southern Alps and the alpine village of Arthur's Pass before entering the dramatic Otira Tunnel to the West Coast of New Zealand's South Island, through alpine beech rain forests to Greymouth. Upon arrival on the West Coast, be sure to check out Punakaiki and the iconic pancake rocks and blowholes.

See Moby Dick at Kaikoura

Pride and joy

Spending a night with African lions as your neighbours tops o an unforgettable night of exclusive zoo access, sumptuous food and giving a rhino a back rub. Paul Chai has a wild night at Jamala Wildlife Lodge at the National Zoo & Aquarium.

Jamala Wildlife Lodge Canberra, ACT, Australia

e lowdown

Jamala Wildlife Lodge, set inside the familyowned National Zoo & Aquarium, allows unrivalled access to some of the world’s most majestic animals. Guests sleep right next lions, tigers, giraffes and sun bears with just a pane of thick glass separating them from the apex predators (and the giraffes are free to meet guests on the open balcony). This leader in the zoo-stays space has two main goals: for you to gain new respect for nature and for any profits to go towards conservation and breeding programs.

e locale

As part of the Jamala experience, guests get a guided tour of the National Zoo & Aquarium. On this private expedition you will meet the penguins named after ’90s rappers, the capuchin monkey who communicates using his eyebrows, and most importantly you get to give one of the zoo’s huge rhinos a back scratch. Once you are shown to your rooms you are then free to roam the zoo once it closes, which makes you feel like Matt Damon in that movie where he buys one.

e menu

Dinnertime is a grand affair at Jamala when guests congregate at the Rainforest Cave adjacent to the zoo’s aquarium. The allinclusive feast begins with drinks on the terrace where you can see hyenas and where staff call the white lions – Jake and Mishka –down to visit. Then guests head inside for a four-course extravaganza that might include kingfish sashimi with nam jim dressing, Peking duck or traditional African chicken bobotie (similar to cottage pie). The lions are free to stay and can be seen behind glass, the hyenas occasionally visit as well, then guests head back to their accommodation. Breakfast is also held in the Rainforest Cave, and your cappuccino comes with a cocoa lion pawprint on it.

e abode

The centrepiece is uShaka Lodge, a dark-wood safari lodge that has monkeys frollicking on the terrace and where guests check in and take afternoon tea. It has seven rooms attached but we are staying in the separate Jungle Bungalow 1, sharing our abode with the zoo’s pair of African lions: Mlinzi and Nairibi. The luxurious room has one wing with leather couches, zebrastriped cushions, cheetah-print rug and a framed painting of the King of the Beasts. The opposite wing contains an expansive bathroom with huge bath situated so you can look out the window at the lions; in the centre is a huge four-poster bed. The lions are free to roam but love sitting, or sprawling, on the wooden decking outside your floor-to-ceiling windows. On a few occasions we even got to go hand-to-paw with them as they planted their feet on the glass.

e highlight

A broken sleep might seem an unusual highlight but when you awake in the middle of the night to the roar of a male lion, then see his huge frame silhouetted in a flash of lightning, it is worth a mention. Mlinzi huffed a few more times at the inclement weather then flopped onto his side again and fell asleep, as did we.

e conclusion

The spectacle of Jamala Wildlife Lodge makes it the apex of zoo stays, and sleeping next to the lions feels like the top of the food chain. But whether you stay with giraffes or the inquisitive meerkats, the care, curation and conservation for this memorable night will make you game for a return as soon as possible.

Bounty

hunter

Fiji’s Likuliku Lagoon Resort faces a body of water rumoured to hold a secret sunken treasure but, as So a Calvert discovers, there is also a wealth of riches – delicate ecosystems, beautiful beaches and fresh local produce – to be discovered on land.

FIJI

Seated at my solid timber desk facing Likuliku Lagoon, I flick through the leatherbound resort directory and land on a page titled “The Legend”. It recounts a tale from Fijian mythology about the lagoon in front of me: that somewhere in its waters lies Katonimana, a “Box of Blessings” lost to the sea by an armada from Tanganyika, north of Egypt, carrying treasures from the Temple of King Solomon.

Even before reading “The Legend” in my bure – a thatch-roofed bungalow at Likuliku Lagoon Resort on Malolo Island in the Mamanucas – I’d noticed that this island was full of rare jewels. An onyx-tipped reef shark swam under the boardwalk towards check-in, carving a sparkling trail through the lagoon. I arrived at the shore, where jewel beetles lay in the sand like rhinestones, and I made my way to my new home under the swaying palm fronds of an emerald dry forest – a

rare, endangered vegetation as scarce as gemstone. It felt as though Katonimana itself had washed ashore here.

In my bure, a his and hers ensuite opens onto a courtyard with an outdoor shower, walled off by a partition of polished stone. I rinse off the day under a reforested canopy and the sweet scent of frangipani honeydew attracts a few friendly bees. My bed rests under timber beams wrapped with magimagi designs – intricate patterns woven from coconut husks. It sits on a platform facing towards the lagoon where swarms of damselfish languidly circle its basin.

The resort’s in-house conservation group, the Ahura Conservation Foundation, works tirelessly to preserve it for all who visit. To learn more about the conservation efforts on Likuliku, I head out on a morning island hop with Oni Ratu, the resort’s Group Environment Manager.

Oni guides our speedboat around a cluster of volcanic jewels, including the resort’s private island, Mociu. Declared na tabu by the Paramount Chief of the Mamanucas –a term indicating a sacred protected area – Mociu is a marine reserve and research area that remains off-limits to fishers. Only resort guests are permitted to enter, and we are fortunate enough to be cast ashore for a private picnic and snorkel. A dedicated custodian patrols the island from afar, waving away any intruding charters.

Alone in this pristine nature reserve, we snorkel over a shallow reef alive with flourishing coral tagged with a na tabu marker – a long stick embedded in the reef floor. Enormous shells line the island like an heirloom necklace, being carefully preserved for generations to come.

Fragile beauty

We continue to Monuriki, also known as Tom Hanks’ Cast Away Island. Most tourists visit for its Hollywood fame, but to Oni and his team this island’s untouched biodiversity is the benchmark for the foundation’s sustainability goals on Malolo.

“Because of human activity, wildfires and invasive species have ravaged much of the native dry forest,” Oni explains as we sail, gesturing at Monuriki’s fragile foliage. “Before this, all of the islands in the Mamanucas looked like Cast Away. It’s what we hope to get back to in a few years.” On Malolo Island, over 7,000 trees were planted in 2024 alone, aided by saplings donated by the Fijian government and generous contributions from resort guests. The goal? To restore the island’s dry forest, one of the most endangered ecosystems on the planet.

Back on land, it’s easy to see that each sustainable solution works to enrich the guest experience. I tour the in-house vegetable garden with the foundation’s Director of Sustainability, Sia Rasalato, and he tells me they sell upwards of $7,000 worth of fresh produce back to the resort kitchen each month. The garden is just steps off the main pathway for any guest to discover on a morning stroll, as well as 20 bee boxes storing kilos of honey.

On my final night at the resort, I sit down with resort manager Tulia Seru, who shares

stories of guests profoundly impacted by Likuliku. Like the German couple who stayed in their overwater bure for a month and bawled when they left. The Russians who asked whether it snowed in Fiji and afterwards, hosted her in Moscow’s winter for six months. There are the return travellers who call Likuliku their second home.

Listening to Tulia, I am reminded of the legend of Katonimana – the “Box of

Ready to explore?

Blessings” hidden in Likuliku’s waters. While this place may not cradle the riches of Solomon, it holds a great blessing: a thriving ecosystem, resurrected from the brink of collapse just two decades ago. By preserving the natural beauty and rare ecosystems of Malolo Island, Likuliku ensures that future generations of guests will share the same opportunity I had to connect with this sanctuary. In a time where treasures can so easily slip through our fingers, this is a place that remains protected, cherished and open to all who seek it.

CLOCKWISE FROM ABOVE: a traditional Fijian welcome to Likuliku Lagoon Resort on Malolo Island in the Mamanucas; the view from one of the bures; delicious local cuisine.

Golden boy

San Francisco’s innovation extends beyond tech, and it’s felt in every corner of the city, especially in its culinary scene. Celebrity chef Tyler Florence, owner of Miller & Lux at Chase Center, shares his perfect foodie day in the Bay with Sarah Wilkes.

SAN FRANCISCO

Between filming seasons of The Great Food Truck Race for Food Network and overseeing his two restaurants, Tyler Florence considers himself “omnipresent” in San Francisco. Seventeen years ago, he found his home amidst San Francisco’s steep hills, clattering cable cars and misty skyline. Today, his admiration for the city remains as enduring as the Golden Gate’s cables.

“San Francisco is a wonderland for what’s next,” Tyler says. “From tech culture to our sports, whatever happens in northern California, the world pays attention to.” San Francisco is a city of firsts, from Apple Watches and Waymo self-driving cars to the iconic, namesake San Francisco Sourdough.

LEFT: Food Network chef Tyler Florence. OPPOSITE, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: San Francisco skyline; Che Fico; Dawn Jazz Club; Red’s Java House.

10am Pick me up

Postscript in Jackson Square in the Financial District is Tyler’s favourite stop for a caffeine hit. “I think their expression of third-wave coffee, from where they source everything to roasting it right on the premises, is super interesting,” he says. In the States, “thirdwave coffee” is all about savouring the full experience – from the aroma and flavour profile to the mouthfeel and every step of the supply chain. “This is a coffee town,” he adds. Tyler orders Postscript’s Haiku blend – a medium roast with fruity character from Guatemala and Ethiopia.

1pm Stacked shack

Red’s Java House is a no-frills waterside diner between the Embarcadero and Oracle Park. Decked out in retro photos and red counter stools, this waterhole nods to its working-class roots while boasting one heck of a location along the bay. For nearly 70 years, their San Francisco Sourdough cheeseburgers (strictly no tomato and lettuce) have been reeling people back in. “It’s this crazy little joint where people drink Pabst Blue Ribbon lager and eat a burger,” Tyler says. “It’s huge in baseball season.”

5pm Pre-game dinner

On game nights, Miller & Lux, the steakhouse at Chase Center opens at 4pm, with jazz setting the mood as diners settle into leather booths while champagne and cooking carts rove around the floor. The restaurant’s second-storey location offers a front-row view of sunset and moonrise. “We get this beautiful blast of pink across the sky,” he says. “Berkeley and Oakland light up and the tugboats slowly float by.” Craving something light? Go for the Caesar salad, made fresh before your eyes on a cart. For a heartier bite, try the Michelin Guide-approved burger.

6pm Dough on the go

If time’s too tight for a sit-down dinner, swing by Che Fico Pizzeria for a slice of NYC-style sourdough pizza instead. On Golden State Warriors game nights, the taverna opens its slice window two hours before the jump ball. Led by David Nayfeld of San Francisco’s renowned Che Fico in the NoPa neighbourhood, the crust has been perfected over time. “It’s got some real flavour to it, crispy and chewy at the same time,” says Tyler.

7pm Game on

You don’t need stadium tickets to get in on the basketball fever at Chase Center. Fans gather at Thrive City, a section within the mini metropolis, where watch parties form in front of a massive 74-foot-wide by 42-foot-tall video board. Splash at Thrive City, a mediacentric sports bar located near the screen, is Tyler’s favourite vantage point: “30,000 square feet, state-of-the-art screens and good food”.

10pm Get jazzy

The Dawn Club jazz club in downtown San Francisco is a reimagination of the 1930s original – a former Prohibition-era speak-easy that became a hotspot for jazz. “Jazz was such an important part of the mid-century experience in San Francisco, and I think they’ve brought it back in a way that feels relevant,” he says. Every night live music is booked, paired with innovative cocktails and a hefty whisky collection. “They’ve just nailed it.”

Rocky

high mountain

On a trip to the ski elds of Mt Buller, Paul Chai takes a few detours in the Victorian High Country and discovers secret railway tunnels, architectural wonders and contemporary Mexican dining.

VICTORIA

The annual trip to the snow can be a bit like a ski run: there’s a laser focus on the destination without taking time to enjoy the scenery along the way. That is why I like to pause halfway down Wombat Run at Mt Buller, a steep descent that also gives one of the best views of the snow-flecked Victorian Alps beyond the resort. It is also why, this year, we are taking it slow getting to and from the snow and stopping off at some High Country destinations on the way.

Victoria’s High Country, in the north-east of the state, is more than mountains: you can also find coolclimate wines, innovative dining and historic rail trails; adventure, solace and plenty of flavour.

The Great Victorian Rail Trail runs right through the town of Yarck, our first stop. Dropping into Yarck Bikes for some electronically assisted wheels we spend an afternoon cycling the

former train tracks and trying not to run into kangaroos that dramatically drop in on us from a nearby slope like snowboarders taunting skiers. The rail trail dips into town then out into fields full of lazing cows and is peppered with sculptures like the multicoloured Soul Train from artist Louise Paramor and a series of modern-day scar trees from Taungurung Elder Mick Harding that take the age-old art and tell new stories in a contemporary form. The ride culminates at the haunting Cheviot Tunnel, 201 metres of rail tunnel still dotted with steel hooks that once held gas lanterns.

Back in town, our bed for the night is The Churches, a converted chapel that is now luxury accommodation with high wooden ceilings, sky-blue furnishings and a central gas fire to ward off the cold outside. In the morning is the winding drive up to Mt Buller.

IKON pass

Mt Buller is part of the Ikon Pass, which offers access to 60+ ski destinations worldwide, including unlimited access to 18 resorts. For the 2025–26 season, full Ikon Pass holders will enjoy unlimited days at certain resorts, while the Ikon Base Pass has select blackout dates and limited access to some destinations. Book now

In the pink

Bull Run Cantina is a modest red shack serving South American-inspired empanadas and frozen margaritas right on snow at the base of Bull Run on Mt Buller. It is quiet when we visit and you can grab a round table and wooden chair, jam them into the fresh snow and get stuck straight into your piping hot meal al fresco. It is one of the last places we stop on a frenetic couple of days on the slopes.

Mt Buller, or Melbourne’s Mountain, is one of the most accessible ski resorts in the world, just a three-hour drive from Melbourne’s international airport, so finding a quiet corner on the ski field is the next best thing to arriving in the village to a flurry of fresh powder.

We can access the slightly challenging Bull Run Cantina slope this year because my youngest son is finally good enough to take on all runs on the mountain, not just the beginner slopes. To celebrate we load up the Mt Buller app and enable the tracking, which provides a map of where you skied throughout the day.

When we whip out the app at Bull Run Cantina to examine our progress it looks like the map of ski runs has been attacked by

a toddler with a pink highlighter. Our actionpacked day shows us skiing up and down Burnt Hut Spur, Little Buller Spur and, of course, Wombat.

There are also plenty of pink squiggles over the back of the mountain, too, as we tackle the sharp U-bend of Family Run, and the skinny, tree-lined Boomerang and Chute. Somewhere in all that pink it also shows the first time my son took on Summit, but it is overrun by the subsequent 10 times he skied from the highest point on the mountain. There are also plenty of stops at Koflers Hutte for refuelling on nachos and hot chocolate.

The snow accommodation for two days is Arlberg House, the closest stay to the Buller summit and a ski-in, ski-out joy.

Arlberg’s retro stylings start with the rock-wall façade and continue into the lobby, bar and restaurant and they hark back to the original opening in 1958. The Front Bar is always packed apres-ski, and tables at the Wood Room are filled with happy diners eating Euro-influenced dishes.

Our spacious room has a window right onto the Bourke Street action, which is ideal for watching the night skiing antics when we finally call it a day.

THIS PAGE: the ski lifts at Mt Buller; staying on snow at the retro-chic Arlberg House OPPOSITE: BullerRoo is an architectural marvel with some of the best views in the High Country; cocktails at Honcho.

e view from here

The sting of leaving the ski slopes is soothed by a final couple of nights at BullerRoo, a sensational stay that is the passion project of Vicki and Ed van der Hoeven. Ed is a Dutch bricklayer who built the property’s three abodes: the cottage in 2005, his own residence and, in 2020, BullerRoo Luxury Chalet, a rust-coloured industrial-chic chalet that appears to hover over the “infinity carport” where you park and first see the wavelike ridges of farmland and the dual mountains known as The Paps.

Inside, the heightened position and almost entirely glass frontage means that the view is ever-present, like being immersed in an Arthur Streeton painting.

Whether you are chilling to tunes on the leather sofa, cooking in the chef-worthy kitchen or taking a nap in the king-size bed you can keep an eye on the pale morning yellows, brilliant blues or cotton-candy-cloud sunsets of our very own big sky country.

The farm itself has pygmy goats that bleat hopefully every time you head out for a walk, lanky alpacas and a path to a crook in the river that is home to a platypus – with bench

seating in case you need to wait him out.

Just a 20-minute drive away in Mansfield, guests can check out Ros Ritchie wines in a historic homestead, join the crowds at morning meeting place Mansfield Coffee Merchant, where caffeine fans spill out into the street, or take a slightly longer drive to picturesque Jamieson which was featured in ABC drama High Country

Our final night includes dinner at Honcho, a modern Mexican in Mansfield with whitewashed walls, hand-woven lampshades and hand-selected artworks that might be local landscapes or woven rugs of rapper MF Doom. Share plates include an aguachile of Ora king salmon, yuzu and jalapeno; stracciatella with charred fig and hot honey and crisp calamari with hibiscus salt.

Margaritas of all stripes are the go-to drink and a Salty Dog (tequila, salted grapefruit, lime and agave) the stand out.

We drive slowly back to BullerRoo with kangaroos and deer trying hard to get in our way, knowing that our morning departure will be the only low point in our High Country adventure.

This hybrid four-wheel drive is perfect for a snowy mountain road trip with assisted driving making life easy on the winding High Country roads. The Kia Sorento sports some of the most high-tech gear in any Kia cars ever made, and its 12.3” x 12.3” screen is easy to use. kia.com

Kia Sorento

Out of the ordinary

Mixing luxury stays with untamed nature, eating street food surrounded by colourful murals, or standing in a eld of owers made of LEGO, Malaysia is a country full of unforgettable adventures and surreal experiences.

Malaysia is a land of great contrasts: from the lush forests of Borneo to the bustling metropolis of Kuala Lumpur; from secret island resorts to some of the most popular dishes in the world. This variety often throws up surprising combinations like Penang’s thriving street art going hand-inhand with flavour-packed street food like char kway teow. You have the luxury of fivestar resorts on the doorstep of jungles so

wild they are home to wildlife encounters like the world-famous orangutans.

This is a country that is packed with family fun at theme parks and offers couples retreats that specialise in fine dining, soaring skyscrapers and intimate boutique stays. Malaysia is a destination that can still surprise and excite travellers looking for luxury with a little bit of surrealism on the side.

Intimate island adventures

You don’t always think of private island getaways or overwater bungalows when you think of Malaysia, but there are plenty of coastal escapes on offer. Cove 55 is located in the wild rainforest at the base of Mount Santubong and was once the holiday home of the regal Iban family. It has now been transformed into overwater luxury with 13 rooms, two suites and 13 villas. Here you can see the orangutans at Semenggoh Nature Reserve, catch a boat to untamed Satang Island or go on a Wetlands Wildlife Cruise to discover proboscis monkeys, crocodiles and Irrawaddy river dolphins.

At Gaya Island Resort guests can stay amongst protected mangroves and sheltered reefs on an island in Tunku Abdul Rahman Marine Park. Human activities have been heavily restricted in this park making what is one of the world’s most authentic natural getaways.

Meanwhile at Tanjong Jara Resort you will find a private island dedicated to showing guests the traditional Malay way of life from cultural experiences to cooking classes and local dishes eaten by candlelight, right on rocks facing the resort’s crescent-shaped beach.

A town packed with big avours

The colourful Peranakan-influenced town of Penang is home to some of the most famous street food on the planet. It’s assam laksa is a tangy seafood soup, while char kway teow is a spicy tangle of thick rice noodles packed full of wok-hei smokiness, and the nasi lemak is the type of street food that people fly thousands of miles to try.

Much of this nonya cuisine is a blend of Malay, Chinese and Thai influences but real food lovers head for Jawi Peranakan cuisine which is an exploration of Indian-Muslim food that combines Tamil, Pakistani, Persian and Malay flavours.

Stroll the bright, mural-covered streets and stop in at the hawker centres to experience some of the best tasting fusion food you will ever eat.

Exciting family outings

Sunway Resort Hotel, just outside Kuala Lumpur, is the perfect base for families. This mega-resort has sumptuous rooms as part of an entertainment complex that combines a water park, amusement park, wildlife park, an “extreme” park and a “scream park”. For the adults there is a health club, a medi-spa and loads of shopping. You could spend days here in family luxury.

In southern Malaysia, the LEGOLAND hotel is kiddie heaven, where your children can sleep in bunks surrounded by LEGO creatures, giant LEGO blocks and the stays are themed Pirate, Kingdom or Adventure. Breakfast might see a visit from a LEGO mini-figurine brought to life, a giant chocolate fountain and plenty of other morning excitement. Then head to the LEGOLAND park for rides and family fun or the LEGOLAND water park to float along the lazy river and ride thrilling water slides.

ESCAPE parks is another exciting family offering with sites across Malaysia in Putrajaya, Johor Bahru, Ipoh, Penang and Petaling Jaya. Here your kids can swing from trapezes, take part in water sports like pedal boats and stand-up paddleboarding or “go ape” with exciting tree climbs.

Malaysia is full of travel experiences that are unexpected, unusual and most importantly of all, unforgettable.

Celebrate Happy

“ e Happiest Place on Earth” is reimagining nostalgia with the Disneyland Resort’s 70th Celebration, honouring seven decades of happiness and many moments of joy in the making. Boden Westover was in attendance.

THIS PAGE: Sleeping Beauty Castle all lit up for the “Wonderous Journey’s” Nighttime Spectacular OPPOSITE, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Joy and Sadness from Pixar’s Inside Out at the “Together: a Pixar Pals Celebration!” Parade; Mickey Ear Hat Cookie; Tinkerbell and Peter Pan at the “Paint the Night” Parade; Disneyland Characters in their 70th Celebration attire; 70th Celebration Decor; the “Paint the Night” Parade at Disneyland Park.

Celebrate Happy with limited-time entertainment, colourful décor, themed food and beverages and collectible merchandise.

Some of the limited-time attractions you’ll experience as part of the 70th Celebration include: an all-new “World of Color Happiness” show inspired by Walt Disney’s words from the opening day park dedication, the fan-favourite return of “Paint the Night” Parade that lights up Disneyland Park nightly and a “Better Together: A Pixar Pals Celebration!” delightful parade during the day, and a bundle of 70th Celebration touchpoints around the park, including must-have merch and new custom outfits for Mickey and Friends.

zest meets East

KOR Taipei

TAIPEI

e bartender’s handshake is the traditional greeting between hospitality workers; it might take the form of a signature cocktail or a simple shot. We shake hands with Jonathan Lin, bartender at Mandarin Oriental, Taipei’s Art Deco-inspired M.O. Bar.

There’s a wry irony at the heart of M.O. Bar, with an (American) Prohibition-era theme that seems to channel Gatsby. But don’t let the sleek central island bar, ambient lighting and live jazz fool you: this is a bar that’s driven by an enduring love for underappreciated Taiwanese ingredients, the street food culture of the surrounding Songshan District (home to the city’s legendary Raohe Street Night Market) and a desire to leave the trends behind and become Taipei’s signature bar.

Enter dazzling high-concept elixirs like the Luo Quan: served in a spritz glass, the cocktail balances smoke and sweetness masterfully, with scotch, vermouth, Taiwanese winter melon sugar and luò shén huā (hibiscus roselle), ginger and passionfruit. It’s finished with a papercraft butterfly – an enduring symbol of Taiwan, the “Kingdom of Butterflies”. “The drink’s name refers to the stamp used to sign a painter’s finished painting in the classic Chinese tradition,” says Jonathan Lin.

“It symbolises the completion of the work, of a masterpiece.”

For Jonathan, the flashiness has a certain appeal. “When I was in college, I loved to see bartenders showing off and having a good time... I was fascinated by the world of spirits, flavours and the countless possibilities behind the bar. It’s what inspired me to pick this as my career. But the M.O. Bar does things a little differently to other places I’ve worked at.”

The biggest difference? Jonathan didn’t learn how to mix a single drink when he started. Instead, he was taught the hotel’s most tightly held secret arts: how to remember every guest’s favourite drink, how to deliver exceptional service in the heart of an all-night rush, how to be effortlessly comfortable behind the bar.

When asked for the recipe to the Luo Quan, Jonathan laughs warmly – just as he’s been trained. “I’m not sure I can give that one away,” he says. “But let me show you an all-time favourite from my student days.”

“If I visit a bar, the cocktails should be good – that’s standard. So, a great bar should have great facilities, music and vibes – and KOR overdelivers on all three.”

The Public House

A mainstay on the Asia’s 50 Best Bars list, English pubinspired The Public House serves what might be Taiwan’s best gin and tonic: handcarved ice and all. “The drinks are just too good.”

Longtail

“The drinks are fantastic and the food is incredible.” Don’t sleep on the Maroon Bird: Guatemalan aged rum, pandan-infused rum, Campari, lime and mango make for an extra-delicious riff on the Jungle Bird, a tiki classic.

Bar Weekend

Soaked in neon, Bar Weekend’s a favourite of Taipei mixologists and barhounds alike, with tea-infused cocktails and a killer Ramos Gin Fizz.

Bar Mood

Taiwanese and Japanese whiskey get the star treatment at this elegant cocktail bar, but the boundary-pushing cocktail list is also worth perusing.

M.O Iced Tea

15ml gin (Oriental Beauty Tea Gin)

15ml oolong

tea-infused vodka

15ml tequila

15ml rice tea-infused rum

10ml Italicus liqueur

15ml Cointreau

Top with prosecco

Fill a shaker with ice, adding all the ingredients except the prosecco. Shake until chilled, straining into a highball glass. Top with prosecco (skip the cola!) and garnish with a dried piece of apple.

JONATHAN LIN’S FAVOURITE TAIPEI BARS

along Coasting

Arriving at Alma resort in Cam Ranh, on the Vietnamese coast, Danielle Norton was planning a chilled-out solo stay. Instead, with all the eating, drinking, kneading and even digging on o er she happily embraces a far more active stay.

Vietnam is a kaleidoscope of colour, fashion, culture and lots and lots of people. Large centres like Ho Chi Minh City are crowded with motorbikes. The streets and markets pulse with the hustle and bustle of people shopping, cooking and sharing food. The throngs and the hubbub can be overwhelming; and so a retreat to a coastal resort can give travellers a much-needed dose of tranquillity. I am heading to Alma beachfront resort in Cam Ranh to recharge for a few days.

From my deluxe one-bedroom Ocean View Pavilion with a private swimming pool, I can see the nearby beach over the foliage of my tropical garden. My accommodation, styled with navy linen sofas and vivid purple potted orchids, is a lovely oasis; a place to rest, swim, enjoy a drink and read a book.

Upon my arrival I book into Le Spa. Entering under an arbour of foliage, my senses are instantly soothed. In the steam

room I inhale deeply, the fragrances of lemon and lime essential oils helping me start to unwind. A traditional Vietnamese massage with coconut oil lulls me into holiday mode.

There are myriad dining options at the resort, so I start my stay with a progressive dinner. A refreshing sour mango cocktail at the jazzy American Bar is complemented by a snack of lightly crumbed calamari. I peruse the Korean delicacies, American-style fries and fruit platters at the Asiana buffet and select a few delicate sushi rolls.

I then call for a buggy and we zoom down to Atlantis, the seafood restaurant on the beach. Propped by the open window, feeling the ocean breeze, I indulge in grilled king prawns topped with a salted egg sauce, then order salads and a tender grouper, fresh from the restaurant’s fish tank, served on the bone with a spicy sauce.

In the morning, La Casa is a quiet spot for an a la carte breakfast. It’s a large, elegant

room and from my booth I watch staff skilfully navigating the open kitchen. My table is set up as if for high tea, with three tiers of watermelon, dragon fruit, yoghurt, jam, cheese, charcuterie, bread, chocolate cupcakes and croissants. I’m greeted warmly by staff and almost immediately a waitress appears with a Sunrise healthy juice of beetroot, ginger, apple and carrot. The coffee’s good and I choose a flat white over a Vietnamese coffee.

At night La Casa feels like a trattoria, with red checked tablecloths and up-tempo Italian music. This is Alma’s destination for pizza and pasta, limoncello spritz and Peroni. My mushroom and prawn ravioli is perfectly al dente, sporting a little orange flower.

THIS PAGE: the beautiful coast of Cam Ranh. OPPOSITE: Alma beachfront resort.

CAM RANH

Cyclos, temples and giant Buddhas

When I imagined working up a sweat at this resort, I pictured my body stretching into a triangle pose in a private yoga class. Instead, I’m holding a shovel and digging a hole under the afternoon sun. Planting a coconut tree is one of the “green hands, green future” activities for guests. I place my foot on the head of the shovel and press down into the rich, fragrant earth to make the trench for the cocos nucifera tree, which symbolises generosity and resilience for the Vietnamese. I’m leaving my mark on the resort, literally, and helping to decrease its carbon footprint.

I book a night-time adventure tour with Zazen Travel, a local boutique agency. The owner, Christina, meets me and we drive into Nha Trang to visit Long Son Pagoda, home to the world’s tallest Buddha statue at 24 metres. The enormous white stone idol is perched atop Trai Thuy hill and the temple below is the oldest in the city.

After exploring the bronze statues and paintings, depicting the life of Buddha, in the circular room beneath the statue, we wander through Kinh Chao Quy Khach, the relatively small night market. Christina hails a cyclo (bicycle taxi) to transport us through

the streets – and through time – telling me that 40 years ago when she was a child, her mother used to hire a cyclo to take her to the fresh food market.

The next morning, it’s time to leave. I have a departing snack of fresh prawn hand rolls and a rose hibiscus syrup tea at the Alma Lounge, by the resort lobby. As I stand on the balcony for a final view of the property, I commit to memory the image of the twelve swimming pools cascading down towards the ocean like a gentle waterfall.

Opened in 2019, this resort fell victim to Covid closures. Resort general manager, Herbert Laubichler-Pichler, tells me that they created online learning programs for staff and housed them in villas to keep them and their guests safe. The result is an extremely engaged, close-knit “family” of staff. The service is exemplary, from that of the buggy drivers and gardening staff to the spa therapists and customer services team.

The Alma is the perfect combination of laidback luxury, divine dining and indulgence. After a few days here, I’m ready to face the big city again.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP RIGHT: Alma is keen on plantings as part of its “green hands, green future” initiative; the lobby; morning yoga.

Stay at Alma Resort

wonder

Texas warmly welcomes you to experience its wide-open skies and endless natural beauty.

With elusive wildlife and scenic trails around every corner, Texas is an adventurer’s paradise just waiting to be explored. So get your hiking shoes on and discover the wonders only found in Texas.

TRAVEL ESSAY

Natural wanders

Chasing the world’s natural wonders can feel like a game of chance. Natasha Bazika re ects on why the most unforgettable moments come when we stop expecting and start experiencing nature on its own terms.

There’s a certain arrogance in thinking we can schedule nature’s greatest performances. As if the Northern Lights will flicker on at our chosen hour, or a whale will breach on command.

Yet, as phenomena tourism gains momentum, more and more people are chasing these natural wonders with the same devotion we once reserved for concerts or sporting events. Weather apps are refreshed, and entire trips are planned around these grand spectacles, convinced that nature will deliver.

Spoiler alert: nature does what it wants. And it doesn’t really care about our itineraries.

I first learned this lesson the hard way during a cruise through the Arctic Circle. The seas were a stormy mess, but when the captain announced the lights were visible, I raced upstairs, all set for the big moment. What I got instead was a faint green smudge, like someone

had lazily brushed a little watercolour across the sky. Lying flat on the freezing deck, camera in hand (and stomach in turmoil), I captured what I could, but it all felt a bit anticlimactic.

It took a moment for reality to sink in. Here I was, above the Arctic Circle, surrounded by a few hundred other people from all corners of the world, sharing the same dream of witnessing one of the world’s most iconic natural phenomena. The lights weren’t at their brightest that night (though that moment would come), but my disappointment faded into an overwhelming sense of luck just to be here.

Cameron Benson, tour leader for 50 Degrees North, a Nordic tour operator, sums it up best: “I tell guests not to expect to see the Northern Lights. But if they do, it’s a bonus.”

Cameron’s advice is especially timely as more travellers chase nature’s grandest dis-

plays. Expedia’s Unpack ‘25 report, which surveyed 25,000 people across 19 countries, found that the Northern Lights top the list of 2025’s most sought-after natural wonders, with 61 per cent of travellers prioritising them. Following closely behind are geological phenomena like volcanoes and hot springs, showing a rising curiosity about the power of nature.

But with this growing fascination comes misconceptions, especially when it comes to the Northern Lights. Social media paints them as a flawless, full-colour performance, but this isn’t the case. Benson makes sure his guests understand this. “We explain the science behind the aurora, down to solar activity, weather, and light pollution, so they go in with realistic expectations,” he says.

One misconception Benson often encounters is the belief that the aurora isn’t visible

without a camera. “People get so fixated on their phones that they forget to actually look up,” he says.

Another common complaint? The colours aren’t vibrant enough. “People expect a dazzling, multi-coloured display, thanks to Photoshop and filters, but the reality is that green is the most common hue,” Benson explains. “I always remind guests that seeing them at all is a privilege; many aren’t so lucky.”

The setting, though, that’s where the magic happens. In Finnish Lapland, glass-roofed igloos are the front-row seats to the sky’s light show. But even if the aurora stays shy, there’s plenty of adventure to be had, from husky sledding to reindeer feeding, and soaking in the quiet of the North. And sometimes, if you’re lucky, the setting and the spectacle align in ways you never expect.

The night after my lacklustre first encounter with the aurora, I settled in for dinner – on my birthday, no less – when the sky decided to put on one of the brightest displays, which even had the ship’s crew abandoning their posts to rush outside. Ribbons of green twisted and pulsed overhead for hours. I abandoned my dessert (a rare move for me) and stood out in the crisp Arctic air, numb to the cold but completely absorbed in the moment.

That kind of unpredictability, where nature throws something your way just when you least expect it, isn’t unique to the Arctic. It’s something you see in other corners of the world.

Let go a little

African safaris are a game of patience, timing, and, sometimes, sheer luck. At Ishara, a luxury safari lodge in Kenya’s Maasai Mara National Reserve, they have a saying: “Nature will provide what it provides.” For guests, that could mean watching giraffes wander past their deck, catching a glimpse of a leopard

near the airstrip, or simply experiencing the sights and sounds of the land in different seasons explains Altaf Jiwa, group director of communications, marketing and strategy.

One of the most sought-after experiences for safari-goers is the Great Migration, which takes place between July and October. “Imagine over a million wildebeest, zebras and antelope crossing the Serengeti and Mara in search of fresh grazing grounds,” says Altaf.

The timing of a safari can make all the difference, too. “In the rainy season, the reserve bursts into life, with birds, big cats, and newborns taking their first steps alongside their mothers,” Altaf points out. “But when the dry season hits, wildlife gather around the last water sources, creating some truly incredible animal interactions.”

And, of course, the value of a great safari guide cannot be overstated. “Their expertise in the land and animal behaviour can transform an ordinary game drive into a memorable adventure,” explains Altaf. “Whether it’s private sundowners set against an African sunset or a bush breakfast while watching hippos lazily wallow nearby, it’s those moments of peace and stillness (when time seems to slow) that make a safari truly special. It’s not just about the Big Five.”

While iconic phenomena like the Northern Lights and the Great Migration showcase nature’s grandeur and mystery, travellers are increasingly seeking out rarer natural phenomena, planning entire trips to the destinations that offer the promise of something extraordinary. These quieter, more intimate wonders are stealing the spotlight.

Take, for example, where the cherry blossoms draw crowds across Japan from March to May. Recently, though, there’s been a shift towards seeking out the country’s more hidden natural treasures, like the ballet of Japanese cranes. Between February and March, the redcrowned Tancho cranes on Hokkaido perform a mating ritual where they bow and leap in unison. While the cranes are protected at the Tsurui Crane Sanctuary and visible year-round, the dance recital only happens during those early months.

The Expedia report also highlights the starlings’ migration over Wadden Sea National Park, which takes place in both spring and autumn. In the evening, starlings form swirling clouds that give the phenomenon its name: Denmark’s “Black Sun”.

Like many natural phenomena, the Black Sun is fleeting. Starlings change their roosting spots multiple times a season, sometimes even daily, making it a rare spectacle to witness. Guides at the national park closely monitor the birds’ movements, with scouts tracking their roosting sites, but even then it’s a game of chance.

And that is exactly the point. Whether you’re whale-watching or hiking a glacier, there’s something liberating about letting nature call the shots. The best moments don’t come when we try to force them; they come when we simply take a step back and watch. Like when a glacier calves with a deafening crack just as you’re about to turn away, or a pod of dolphins pops up when you least expect it. These spontaneous moments are the ones that linger, not because we planned them, but because they felt like a gift.

So, while it’s tempting to book that Northern Lights trip or safari expecting nature to deliver on cue, it’s important to let go a little. The lights might not be as bright as you imagined, and the animals may not show up when you want them to. But it’s in that gap between what we expect and what actually happens where the magic happens.

In the end, nature’s biggest lesson is patience. In a world where we control so much, from our calendars to our screens, nature reminds us that some things are beyond our control. And maybe that’s why those moments, when they do come, feel so extraordinary. It’s also why more and more travellers (myself included) are booking phenomena trips this year – to chase that magic that can’t be planned, only experienced.

goodWickedly

A new gourmet experience at Devil’s Corner in Tasmania sees guests pair freshly shucked oysters with premier local bubbly, all on protected wetland teeming with native birds. Paul Chai visits Moulting Lagoon, otherwise known as “Tasmania’s Kakadu”.

FREYCINET

Who knew that oysters are best served off the back of a ute? The team at Devil’s Corner winery, apparently, because this unusual shucking station is the centrepiece of their new Moulting Lagoon gourmet experience.

Moulting Lagoon is a calm body of water hidden behind the dramatic Devil’s Corner cellar door which looks out on the pink-hued Hazards mountain range on Tasmania’s east coast. The name comes from the fact that the lagoon is often fringed with the fuzzy feathers of the resident black swans that come here to shed their youthful grey look for a more gothic all-black get up.

“This is a wetland of international importance,” Nick Newton, Devil’s Corner vineyard manager, says, explaining that the area became an official Ramsar wetland in 1982. Ramsar wetlands are recognised as rare or unique, or are important for conserving biological diversity. Other birds native to the region include the white-bellied sea eagle, the pied oyster catcher, the Pacific gull and the eastern curlew which can fly up to 25,000 kilometres from the Arctic to pay a visit to Tassie.

“To qualify for Ramsar you need to meet one of nine criteria and Moulting Lagoon meets six of them,” Nick adds. “There are only seven other wetlands in

Australia that meet six criteria – and only one that meets all nine [Kakadu National Park] – so this is Tassie’s Kakadu.” Giles Fisher from Freycinet Marine Farm is shucker-in-chief, swiftly parting the oyster shells, dishing out mignonette and good-naturedly berating us for not eating enough of the plump, briny catch that comes from his farm just beyond the lagoon.

“There are few places where you get world-class wine and world -class seafood produced so closely together,” Giles says. He has farmed oysters for 20 years and has provided the top-notch seafood for the Devil’s Corner cellar door for the past few years. The farm has 3.4 million oysters growing at any one time and sells about 1.2 million a year.

Before heading down to Moulting Lagoon, we had already feasted on Freycinet Marine Farm’s lunchtime menu of panko-crumbed calamari, beer-battered oysters and octopus and smoked mussels with a side of garlic bread. Now, post-ute shucking, we go to the Devil’s Den, a separate area at the cellar door, for a guided tasting of its range of rieslings, pinot grigios and sauvignon blancs as the sun turns The Hazards the colour of Tasmanian salmon.

Freycinet Lodge

Communing with nature in the Freycinet National Park, this stay has a warm central meeting place with a variety of accommodations snaking off into the wilderness; it has the feel of luxury accommodation and camping all at once; wild yet comfortable.

Make yourself at home in one of the 60 individually decorated guestrooms, featuring DVD players and LCD televisions. Grab a bite at The Bay Restaurant, one of the hotel’s two restaurants, or stay in and take advantage of room service.

at’s the spirit

After our lagoon experience, we travel with Luxury Golf and Scenic Tours along the switchback roads to our accommodation for the night: Freycinet Lodge on the shores of the appropriately named Great Oyster Bay. There is a bristly beauty to Tasmania’s East Coast, the ragged coastline, the windy weather all under the constant watch of the craggy Hazards. It is a nautical allure that has seen the neighbouring Bay of Fires named Best Australian Beach for 2025 and it is a popular spot for locals as well as international travellers. We drive through Coles Bay, a seaside town where many Tasmanians keep “shacks”, modest coastal second homes that deliberately shun ostentation.

Freycinet Lodge also avoids any glitz and glamour allowing its position among the pink granite peaks and the gorgeous beaches of Freycinet National Park to do all the talking. My Mountain Terrace King has views across to The Hazards plus a hazy mural on the wall in honour of the nearby mountains. There is also an outdoor bath with an even better view,

so I grab a Willie Smith’s cider from the mini fridge and jump in.

In the morning we are heading off to Devil’s Corner’s sister winery, Tamar Ridge, just a short drive out of Launceston. The pairing on offer here is a different one, with the winery’s barrels being used to rest the gin from the neighbouring Turner Stillhouse.

Tamar Ridge’s hillside location gives it commanding views of the Tamar Valley and the deck is a fantastic spot for a piled-high tasting plate of cheeses and cured meats to complement the range of cold-climate pinot noirs made here. Then we walk through the distillery and taste some of the experimental batches straight from the barrel as well as the commercially available Three Cuts gin rested in pinot and chardonnay barrels.

It is yet another winning Tasmanian combination that is both simple and perfect, just like an oyster straight off the back of a ute.

Luxury Golf and Scenic Tours

This family-run tour company knows Tasmania inside out and offers a range of gourmet and golfing tours as well as group airport transfers. Take the Tamar Valley Wine Tour, a premium tour of the north-west coast or tee off at the famous Barnbougle golf course. luxurytourstas.com.au

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: Tamar Ridge and Three Cuts gin; Bay of Fires coastline; pinot noir from Devil’s Corner; the cellar door at Turner Stillhouse; a tasting of some of Tamar Ridge’s classic pinot noir.

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Designed and hosted by well-known experts who share their passions for a truly unforgettable adventure.

On-the-Ground Research Trips

Our expert hosts undertake dedicated research trips to design each itinerary, ensuring a highly curated journey.

One Departure Only Iconic Itineraries

Each tour has just one departure date, ensuring that every trip is a unique, oncein-a-lifetime experience.

Travellers will enjoy iconic bucket-list experiences, capturing moments that go beyond ordinary travel expectations.

Unmatched Luxury

All hotels and resorts are meticulously handpicked for their exceptional quality, comfort, location, and service.

Quantum leap

e sun-soaked sprawl of Los Angeles draws millions of visitors each year but it is not always thought of as a cruising destination. e inaugural voyage of Royal Caribbean’s Ovation of the Seas – the rst Quantum-class ship and largest cruise liner to use San Pedro port – seeks to change that. Georgia May Malaxos is aboard for the rst sail.

A reprieve from LA’s gridlocked chaos, Royal Caribbean’s seamless embarkation and a heartfelt welcome from the ship’s crew soon sees us whisked away from the urban sprawl of Los Angeles to the luxury of a cruise to Mexico.

Our first stop is the Windjammer buffet, serving three meals a day, it is a culinary carnival to satisfy any craving. With full bellies and prime seats at the North Star Bar, that sits high on the Ovation of the Sea’s top deck, we watch San Pedro’s cargo containers shrink into the distance and clink glasses to both this inaugural Ovation cruise and to the start of the Californian summer.

Out at sea we explore the ship and find a string quartet playing selections from the Bridgerton soundtrack in the decadent Music Hall on deck four. This musical bar is a magical escape where cocktails are as velvety as the chaises longues.

A special guest on this cruise is legendary TV producer and writer Shonda Rhimes who is celebrating the 20th anniversary of Shondaland, her production company that is responsible for megahits like Grey’s Anatomy, Scandal and, of course, Bridgerton. The onboard musical performance is an ode to this much-loved historical romance series and I look up to see Shonda herself having a boogie before she starts a special Q&A for ship guests.

Early next morning I am feeling brave, and before my morning coffee, I wander to the ship’s top deck to satisfy my inner thrill-seeker. RipCord by iFLY is a skydiving simulator which lets you float on a windpowered cushion of air and feel the freedom of flying above the sea. Cheered on by my fellow fliers, I rocked a wide-eyed smile and then goggle lines for a few hours after my hair-raising ride.

Heading to margarita-ville

This is a special three-day itinerary that has us barely finding our sea legs before the ship docks for a day in Ensenada, Mexico. We avoid the tour crowds and opt to self-navigate through the sensory delights of Ensenada’s Old Town.

I thought LA’s craft cocktail scene had margaritas mastered but tucked inside the historic Hotel Riviera del Pacífico – once a prestigious hotel of the 1930s which attracted film stars during Prohibition – sits Bar Andaluz. The Californias may debate the origin of the margarita, but according to Ensenada local lore, this famous cocktail was born here by local bartender Sr. David Negrete on August 21, 1936 in honour of Marjorie “Margarita” King, a frequent guest and former actress. A delightful find after aimlessly wandering the elegant Spanish architecture of the Old Town and one of the best margaritas I have every tasted. Sorry, LA.

Ensenada’s streets pulse with life and the smell of sizzling seafood is never far away. The Baja fish taco is an unmissable local delicacy, that you will smell before you see it. But Michelin-recommended restaurant La Concheria heard our call for a lunchtime seafood feast. Situated within Plaza Santo Tomás, the area once home to Baja California’s oldest winery, the

restaurant serves up world-class local catch with modest prices.

Time to dawdle can be a rare luxury in LA. We take our time strolling the pebbled coastline passing local cafes and vintage stores, and, with the help of a few locals, find a swimming spot known and loved by its neighbours. A quick plunge in the clear water was an ideal bookend to an unforgettable day.

Glowing with holiday warmth, we are ready to re-board and sail back to LA, knowing the story of summer has only just begun.

CLOCKWISE FROM ABOVE: Ovation of the Seas’ FlowRider; Vintages wine bar; cruising in to Ensenada in Mexico on the inaugural sail out of Los Angeles. OPPOSITE: Ovation of the Seas is the first Quantum class vessel to cruise from Los Angeles and the largest cruise liner, too.

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MALDIVES INSIDER:

Tranquil islands with white sandy beaches, tropical foliage, underwater restaurants, overwater bungalows, world-class snorkelling and diving the coral reefs. e Maldives has all that plus bioluminescent beaches, romance under the stars, gentle sunsets over the Indian Ocean and opulent spa therapies – luxury, adventure, relaxation, privacy.

It is this montage of the Maldives that bewitches holidaymakers, enticing them to head to one of the 187 inhabited luxury island resorts. Spend your days with loved ones, lounging by a pool, surfing,

windsurfing, kayaking or jetskiing, simply enjoying the wide expanse of turquoise water that surrounds the archipelago. Dine on fresh seafood and local fruits, then take a boat trip to explore the reefs and marine life below the surface of the ocean and lagoons. No longer just a honeymoon destination, the Maldives is embracing solo and multigenerational travellers too.

Here is our insider guide to the perfect Maldives escape.

Drinking and dining

e Cellar, JA Manafaru

Underneath the private island that is home to JA Manafaru luxury resort is a wine cave carved into volcanic rock that you’ll never forget. With a drinks list that allows connoisseurs to truly indulge, enjoy a Champagne breakfast or a degustation meal in this ambient venue.

Chef’s Garden Treehouse, Park Hyatt Maldives

Tour the garden then ascend to the platform, nestled within a forest of flourishing leafy foliage, for a menu that might include panseared tofu, spiced cauliflower, roasted pumpkin, barley risotto and chocolate. Watch the sun set in brilliant Technicolor over the lagoon as you indulge.

Hard Rock Cafe on e Marina

When you’ve relaxed enough and need some rock ‘n’ roll and quintessential American-style food, the Hard Rock Cafe has burgers, wings, BBQ ribs, nachos and fries. With memorabilia lining the walls and regular musical performances, this cafe is always fun. Don’t miss the New York cheesecake.

Flying Sauces, Soneva Fushi

Strap in for a unique adventure. Fine dining and ziplining go together like high tea and Champagne at this elevated dining platform 12 metres above the ground. Zip in on the Flying Sauces zipline to Soneva Fushi and sit among the treetops where Michelinstarred chefs create sustainably sourced brunch and early dinners.

Aqua Villa, Pullman Maldives

For a truly immersive travel experience, book an Aqua Villa with submerged master bedroom for a couple of hours so you can experience a true bucket list meal. Order canapes and bubbles and watch vibrant schools of fish flitting by through a window to the underwater world.

Long Bar, Ra es Maldives

Order a Maldivian Sling made with gin and flavours of the islands, with cinnamon, cloves and coconut toasted with a cook’s blowtorch at the table in front of you. Delight in the renowned Raffles service at this stunning outdoor re-creation of the famous Singapore bar with views of palm trees and the ocean.

Maldives by season

The Maldives is just north of the equator so the weather is delightfully warm all year round, with the seasons divided into wet and dry.

Dry season – December to April

If you’re planning a wedding or special event, the best time to book is during the north-east monsoon season from December to April, where you can be sure of sunny days, low humidity and very little rain. During the dry season, the paradise that is the Maldives will be at its glorious best for magical blue-sky photographs and all outdoor activities. This is the ideal time for swimming, snorkelling, diving and water sports, and, of course, long lazy beach days.

Wet season – May to November

From May to November is the south-west monsoon season and you can experience windy, rainy weather but it won’t last all day. This makes it a very good season to travel to the Maldives and you can access some really good prices for high-end resorts. January is when the temperatures are still warm but humidity increases. The bonus for travellers during this season is that the island nation is not as crowded with other holidaymakers.

February has the most hours of sunshine with an average of 10 per day. March is the hottest month in the Maldives, with temperatures ranging between 28°C and 32°C.

In September, it’s the wet season and you should expect rain.

Microclimates can be different depending on the location of the resort, with islands in the north experiencing slightly different weather patterns from those in the south.

Sleeping and relaxing

Pullman Maldives

This five-star retreat on 18 hectares of tropical paradise is a stunner. Arrive in style on a scenic flight and speedboat trip then unwind in the award-winning Ayu spa, enjoy the DJ vibes at Saffron Affair, or sign up for adrenaline-filled water sports adventures with a personal diving instructor at the resort’s dive centre.

Mercure Maldives

This adults-only resort will spark your curiosity for Maldivian cuisine, adventures and a more sustainable way of life. Marine life in the lagoon is abundant and you can explore the coral reefs; swim with turtles, dolphins and multicoloured fish with a snorkel; and spend time in the verdant jungle or on the pristine beaches.

Seaside Finolhu

Foodies will love Seaside Finolhu Baa Atoll’s premier dining experience at 5° North. Indulge in a meal of oysters, Maldivian lobster, delicious jumbo prawns and marinated reef fish under the stars on an exclusive platform, then take a walk almost two kilometres along the longest beach in the archipelago.

JA Manafaru Maldives

Blissfully romantic, this serene resort also offers family residences. Guests are enriched by the many opportunities on the island. “Dine by Design” unique culinary experiences enhance wellbeing, and customised fishing, diving and cultural excursions abound. Cycle, play football, hit the gym, have a family photo shoot or simply take time to rest.

Park Hyatt Maldives Hadahaa

Hadahaa has one of the best house reefs for snorkelling and diving anywhere in the Maldives. Enjoy pure luxury with a distinctive sense of place. Modern rooms offer breathtaking views of the azure lagoon. Explore the sub-aquatic splendour of Huvadhoo Atoll and find peace in your private haven.

Lily Beach Resort & Spa

Book an overwater bungalow with glass floors and be captivated by marine life. This awardwinning, all-inclusive resort has gourmet buffets and a la carte dining with 80 wines from around the world. Try guided water sports, snorkelling in coral gardens, a sunset cruise or dolphin safari excursions. Luxuriate with personalised Ayurveda treatments at Tamara Spa.

Bucket-list ticking

Diving deep under the surface to explore marine life is on most travellers’ agendas. Until you’ve swum next to a whale shark, watched a hermit crab scamper along the sand, listened to the melodious call of an Asian koel (which is said to bring good fortune) and spent days dining on fresh seafood and delicious Maldivian curry, you’ll never truly understand the spellbinding essence of the Maldives. The colours you see in these magazine pictures are not enhanced they’re exactly what you’ll see when you get off the plane in this Indian Ocean destination. Blue, blue and more blue.

BEST KNOWN FOR:

Marine life

Communing with biodiverse marine life is one of the truly astonishing activities that never fails to amaze guests. Fish enthusiasts have over 1100 fish species to discover and will spot giant guitarfish, blue spotted ribbontail rays, zebra sharks, Moray eels, turtles, lionfish and hundreds of small spotted darts and wrasse. Above the surface, the beaches have soft, fine coralline found on only 5 per cent of the world’s beaches. It’s produced by a process called bioerosion (parrotfish spend most of their days eating from the coral garden smorgasbord of 200 different species of coral then excrete the sand as a waste product).

Profound relaxation

If you want to relax, the spa sanctuaries across the Maldives are something truly special. Great care is taken to design welcoming, tranquil spaces that encourage deep rest and rejuvenation. Whether you need to detox with a sea salt and seaweed body wrap, replenish your skin with a citrus body scrub, soothe tight muscles with a hot stone essential oil remedial massage or try reiki, breathwork, ice baths or sound healing, you name it, you can find it here.

Out and about

Dolphin sunset cruise

The Maldives are known for their dramatic sunsets and there’s no better way to immerse yourself in the light show than on a sunset cruise at resorts like SO/ Maldives. Fill your glass with bubbles, snack on gourmet canapes and watch dolphins frolic as the sun sinks below the waterline.

THE SURPRISING THING:

Religion

It’s a requirement of citizenship that locals practise Sunni Islam. Alcohol, pork and idols of worship are forbidden. Because the islands of the Maldives are privately owned, resort guests are not subject to these laws and are therefore able to drink alcohol and eat pork products.

The official language of the Maldives is Dhivehi or Maldivian. It’s similar to Sri Lankan Sinhalese. Maldivians greet each

other with the phrase “Assalaa mu alaikum” which means “may peace be upon you”.

The Islamic nation observes a month of fasting during Ramadan, from sun up to sun down. Resorts do operate normally at this time and it’s not a requirement, but be mindful while you’re holidaying during Ramadan and try not to eat, smoke or drink in public during this time. Like Muslims worldwide, Maldivians celebrate

“This place is perfect for celebrities and honeymooners and any other kind of VIP guest who needs the highest level of privacy. Our one island concept makes it a once-in-a-lifetime experience.”

IBRAHIM

SHIHAZ RESORT MANAGER, AVANI AND FARES, MALDIVES

Whale Submarine tour

When you’re transiting through Male you’ll have time to spare. This tour is for those who don’t snorkel but still want to go deep and see the best trumpet fish, octopus, coral and, of course, whales. This is the world’s largest passenger submarine – great for the whole family.

Learn to Scuba

If you’ve never learnt to Scuba dive, the Maldives is possibly the best place on the planet for lessons. Resorts can organise a personal instructor and before you know it you’ll be confidently exploring the biodiverse coral reefs and encountering marine animals up close in the magical underwater world.

Eid with prayers and feasting at the end of Ramadan. If you are in the Maldives during this spiritually significant period, you may even have the chance to enjoy delicious Ramadan treats.

As Ramadan and Eid occur according to a lunar calendar, they are celebrated at different times each year. Eid and the three days following are national holidays in the Maldives.

FAMILY AFFAIR:

Focus on wellbeing at the spa

In the Maldives, joyful experiences take centre stage and every resort has a spa that nurtures guests’ physical and emotional health. At Outrigger, the Navasana Spa draws inspiration from the natural environment and uses hand-harvested seaweed products in treatments. The World Spa Awards crowned Joali Being the best multigenerational wellbeing retreat in 2024.

Night-time stargazing

Because there’s no light pollution, the stars dial up the romance and put on a sparkly show every night in the Maldives, especially during the dry season. At Anantara Kihavah there’s a sky bar with a stargazing observatory where a dedicated SKY storyteller points out the constellations for you.

Sur ng

Whether you’re a beginner or a pro, you’ll find your perfect wave in the Maldives. The region is home to some world-class swells. The InterContinental Maldives has surf guides and coaches on the island who will take you to the best breaks for your skill level. Hang ten in style.

Junior marine biologists

Although we usually associate the Maldives with luxurious romantic holidays, it is certainly a place that welcomes and embraces children, providing many opportunities for fun with (and without) the younger members of the family. For those with tiny tots, babysitting and kids’ clubs are widely available. If the children are older, the whole family can hire fins, a mask, and a snorkel and join a snorkelling safari. Family groups can also ride in a submarine, visit the bioluminescent glowing beaches, paddle the lagoon in kayaks, and swim around house coral reefs directly off the beaches of the resort. At the Pullman Resort parents can even watch their kids scuba diving through the windows of the Aqua Villa while they drink Champagne.

Located adjacent to Baa Atoll, a UNESCO Biosphere reserve, hotels like Avani Maldives love to welcome the little loves of your life. With family pavilions and villas that have separate bedrooms, this resort considers the needs of the whole family so both adults and children have a chance to unwind and recharge. Parents can hit the spa while kids go kitesurfing with qualified instructors or join in with the everengaging kids’ club activities.

Hotels like the Four Seasons have dedicated junior marine biologist science programs available and at Soneva Fushi there are educational programs that are so much fun that the kids will never suspect they’re learning something!

The trip between Sydney and Male is about 18 hours so families can be assured that after they arrive, the kids will be happy. All guests have to do is don their swimmers and slip into a state of total relaxation. With every resort offering gorgeous swimming pools and beaches, child-friendly restaurant menus, a full range of motorised and nonmotorised water sports, there’s no place like the Maldives for family fun.

HERE & FAR

Red dirt, rich history and tall tales in an epic journey on e Ghan.

82 / Exploring the Red Centre on a luxury train

90 / Examining The White Lotus E ect in ailand 98 / A century of Ra es hotels in Cambodia 106 / A sailing adventure on the Dalmatian Coast

Time machine

Onboard e Ghan, the luxury train that travels between Darwin and Adelaide, Jessica Bedewi is transported through the rich history of Australia’s Outback – from the early cameleers to swinging sixties risk takers – discovering the timeless luxury of rail travel along the way.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY GEORGE FETTING

ABOVE: stopping to take in the Outback scenery on The Ghan, the luxury train journey that gives travellers time to engage with the beauty of the Northern Territory.

Taking a trip on e Ghan, on the train line that cuts straight through Australia’s Red Centre, I didn’t expect to travel through time. But that’s exactly how it feels on a day excursion as I drift along the gentle waters of the Katherine River in Nitmiluk Gorge.

In a landscape formed millions of years ago, rust-coloured sandstone bluffs rise from the river in every direction. The serpentine path through the gorge winds past jagged precipices that drop straight into the water, interrupted only by the occasional beach with sun-baked golden sands.

It’s my first day aboard The Ghan and, just hours after settling into my private cabin, our tour group has already disembarked the train to explore one of the most spectacular natural wonders in Australia’s Top End. I’ve spent the past few hours watching the scenery skip by from the comfort of the train, where trees and desert shrubbery cover the mostly flat land, punctuated by the occasional hill.

Up close, however, the landscape is markedly different. I thought the Outback would feel empty. Instead, the whole area is brimming with colour and life. Thriving

greenery rises from the river, snaking its way up the canyon walls and blanketing the top of the gorge in a crown of rich emerald. Tiny finches flit from branch to branch, while snow-white egrets fly overhead looking for their next meal.

The ancient landscape feels ageless and unchanging, suspended in time. And as I return to the train, that feeling doesn’t fade.

The Ghan boasts a sense of timeless luxury. In my cabin, a jazzy tune plays from the private radio, transporting me to a simpler age as the world whips by outside. Narrow wood-panelled hallways lead me through each train car on my way to the lounge, where plush seats line the walls and a fully stocked bar sits at the helm of the carriage.

Although I hear rumours of Wi-Fi in the lounge, the signal never quite arrives, and I find I don’t mind once I’m nestled away in my cabin. Disconnected from the world, it’s easy

to imagine that I’ve stepped back through years of history.

While the train boasts an upgraded journey well suited to the modern era, the path The Ghan traverses today wasn’t always so seamless. The history of the train dates back to 1838, when the first Afghan cameleers arrived in South Australia with a plan to explore its untamed interior.

Camels were the ideal creatures to venture into Central Australia, transporting goods, water, tools and equipment to remote towns. When the Commonwealth committed to the construction of a rail line between Adelaide and Darwin in 1911, camels were crucial in helping to develop the infrastructure and construct the rail lines.

Day two aboard The Ghan brings the train’s history to life in a very tangible way: with a camel ride.

ABOVE, FROM LEFT: floating along the waters of Nitmiluk Gorge on a day excursion; the interior of The Ghan, offering a luxury rail journey. OPPOSITE: The Ghan brings you into contact with the red, orange and ochre beauty of the Australian Outback.

“His name is Shadow,” the guide says, as I carefully swing my foot into the stirrup, maneuvering myself into position just behind the camel’s hump. I slot my other foot into the remaining stirrup and off we go, experiencing a form of transport that has long since been abandoned, with the setting sun slowly casting Alice Springs’ Old Telegraph Station into darkness.

I take in the scenery, now illuminated by a soft amber glow, as my trusty ride, Shadow, ambles back to the platform, allowing me to disembark.

The rumbling train has brought us to a dinner at what was once the centre of communication not just across Australia, but all the way to the British Empire. Tonight, however, we’re not dining in the old buildings. Instead, tables have been set up under the stars, complete with white tablecloths, bottles of wine and centrepieces comprising native flowers.

With the Milky Way blinking down on us, clear and shining in the near-darkness, our night off the train feels like a celebration. I chat with my travel companions, clinking

together glasses of wine and bubbles to the tune of a live band.

All the while, the food seems neverending: kangaroo chile con carne, Black Angus sirloin cooked medium rare alongside a tender chicken roulade, lemon myrtle panna cotta with a raspberry puree, and a cheeseboard heaped with fruits and crackers to finish.

After an evening of laughter, music and s’mores made over an open fire, I head back to the comfort of the train, tossing a quick wave to Shadow on my way.

Go on tour with Luxury Escapes

Desert drift

After Shadow’s ancestors played their crucial role in laying the groundwork for the railway routes we travel today, The Ghan set off on its first journey in 1929, from Adelaide Railway Station to what is now Alice Springs. However, the portion of the track connecting Alice Springs to Darwin wasn’t completed until 2004.

For those wanting to explore the Outback before the train tracks were completed, there were few options available but that did not deter some adventurers.

“You know, Valerie did this trip on a Vespa in 1963,” says my lunch companion offhandedly. I’m shocked; the terrain rolling past the window next to our table hardly looks suitable for a four-wheel-drive, much less a cutesy Italian scooter.

But 62 years ago – over 40 years before the train tracks from Alice Springs to Darwin were completed – Valerie braved this very same desert with a travel companion and a scooter.

Over tangy buffalo curry and a sweet mango parfait, Valerie regales us with tales of her trip. She explains that at that time the landscape was so desolate that she had to point the front of the parked scooter in the direction she wanted to go in the morning while making camp at night, lest she lose herself in the endless wilderness. Valerie fondly recalls losing a tyre on her Vespa and having to replace it with a wheelbarrow wheel. The trip took several dangerous weeks.

Our journey today couldn’t be more different. Each night, I retire to my room and

sip my glass of port – my choice from a menu of nightcaps offered on arrival. Each morning, I lift the blinds of my window and am greeted by a symphony of pinks, blues and oranges.

The train rumbles into stops in the heart of country towns, and we disembark on adventures, from the towering rust-coloured walls of the 80-metre high Standley Chasm to the sprawling network of Coober Pedy’s mines and underground houses.

When Valerie tells a particularly cringeinducing story of camping next to a crocodileinfested river – momentarily forgetting about the danger of the creatures in favour of taking a bath in the croc-filled waters –I can confidently say that I much prefer my experience aboard The Ghan.

OPPOSITE: on the journey through the Northern Territory the train stops for a gala dinner at Alice Springs’ Old Telegraph Station, as well as a camel ride.

CLOCKWISE FROM ABOVE: the silver carriages of The Ghan; rugged scenery from the Outback including farms and rocky outcrops

All aboard

Travelling on The Ghan has me wishing I lived in an age where the locomotive was still the primary form of travel, impractical as that may be. At each stop, however, the magic is temporarily broken as we disembark the train and reconnect to cell service to explore Australia’s centre. Our last stop before we reach Adelaide, however, departs from the norm.

On the final night of our journey, the train rolls to a halt at South Australia’s Manguri rail siding. Red sand littered with shrubbery meets the horizon in every direction. If not for the small platform and collection of picnic

tables arranged next to the train, it’s entirely reasonable to imagine that we’ve stepped off the train and onto the plains of Mars.

In keeping with the Ghan’s “want for nothing” approach, Manguri is the perfect place to enjoy evening drinks and canapes. As I sip my glass of red, I can’t help but marvel at the landscape.

It’s the only time we’ve been able to appreciate the uninterrupted beauty of the desert while off the moving train, and I take the opportunity to reflect on the journey. While The Ghan is made for modern indulgence, most of the landscapes we visit along the

way are ancient – timeless and largely unchanging, at least in our lifetimes.

My first adventure into the heart of Australia has been pampered and effortless, and I’m thrilled to have explored such a rugged country with refined ease. The same landscapes traversed by brave cameleers in the 1800s, the same sands Valerie explored in 1963, are waiting to be explored, albeit with a few more creature comforts. I may not be brave enough to delve into the wilderness on my own, but the Outback has captured my heart all the same.

CLOCKWISE, FROM TOP LEFT: a sign at the historic mining town of Coober Pedy where much of the population lives underground to escape the heat; dinner on the red dirt; the stunning rock formations of the Australian Outback; the dinner table all set up for guests at the Alice Springs Old Telegraph Station stop.

power Flower

e latest season of The White Lotus has made a star of ailand, with tourism numbers set to soar – and there are three Anantara properties with supporting roles. Paul Chai goes set-jetting to the trio of TV-worthy resorts in Koh Samui and Phuket, with a side of Boooodhism thrown in.

They’re a mopey bunch on season three of The White Lotus, Mike White’s Thai resort-set dramedy about a collection of guests who are rich in dollar terms and mostly bereft of any joie de vivre.

Me? I’m a martini glass half-full type, which is exactly the position I find myself in at Bua Bar in the Anantara Mai Khao Phuket. Bua Bar is a brand-new intimate cocktail space where the broody room is lit by two metal monkey statues with soft lights dangling cheekily from their tails.

For the first time since the show’s inception, The White Lotus has come to a country where the titular flower is in abundance. Outside the bar’s windows white

lotuses float in the still waters of a pond filled with fish and the odd water monitor (yes, like in the show); my drink is a Whisper of the Lotus with Plantation rum, coconut and lychee and decorated with dried lotus root; even the name of the bar, Bua, is the local word for the lotus, which is a symbol of resilience and enlightenment, and reflects how the bar itself seems to float upon the lagoon on this calm, close Thai night.

Sitting in a lotus, sipping a lotus, next to lotuses on what was the location of The White Lotus; any more meta layers and I would be in a Christopher Nolan film.

Instead, I am reclining just metres from where the deadly denouement in the season

finale takes place, but surrounded by this much luxury it is hard not to be joyous. I am as happy as Sam Rockwell’s character, Frank, commando rolling through the halls of a Bangkok hotel after an all-night bender.

After my lotus cocktail, and a North South Margarita that brings sour tamarind to play with the tequila and lime, we move next door for the new Taste of the Lotus Season menu put together by executive chef Ian John Thomason.

The feast begins with traditional miang kham where diners make their own delicious bites by piling dry shrimp, lime, ginger, peanuts and fish sauce dressing into lotus petals (betel leaf is also common). A lotus root soup follows, sour-spicy with coconut cream and lemongrass. For mains, prawns are flash fried with lotus stems, chicken is cooked in lotus seeds and dessert is sweet coconut custard steamed in a lotus flower.

Outside of the chaos of the TV finale, Anantara Mai Khao Phuket is used mainly for the spa scenes in The White Lotus and that is because it exudes calm around every corner courtesy of the tranquil lagoon at its heart.

After dinner I wander the wooden walkways, to the sounds of fish slapping the water, back to my pool villa. The private plunge pool has a lanky frangipani tree growing out of one end and an outdoor bath at the other; a dark-wood cabana sits at the corner of the walled garden and privacy is absolute. This is the villa (rather unbelievably) given to visiting massage therapist Belinda in the show and inside there is a king-size bed behind which hangs four pale-green fabric panels printed with hundreds of native birds; there is bay-window seating, a dressing room and a huge bathroom with double doors that open to the pool.

Even if I got a call right now from a reporter threatening to destroy my life and livelihood, it couldn’t wipe the smile off my face.

THIS PAGE: the calm waters of Anantara Mai Khao Phuket. OPPOSITE FROM TOP RIGHT: the cheeky monkeys of Bua Bar; dishes from the Taste of the Lotus menu; the private pool villas that are home to spa therapist Belinda in The White Lotus; the Whisper of the Lotus.

Anantara Mai Khao Phuket

A very comfortable life

More of The White Lotus’ monkey business took place at Anantara Bophut Resort & Spa Koh Samui where three dancing simians welcome arrivals to the resort in a playful fountain surrounded by lotuses of a more purple hue.

Anantara is justifiably proud of its role in the drama, not least because the past two seasons have shown that resorts that are featured in the drama typically see a threeto four-year surge in visitors. Minor Hotels founder William Heinecke even has a cameo in one of the episodes. The White Lotus Effect is real.

General manager of Anantara Bophut Resort & Spa Koh Samui, Thomas Boehringer, says that this means they are planning a series of experiences like private beach dinners, lotus-themed spa treatments and afternoon teas for guests to enjoy.

This resort plays the part of the hotel lobby in the show and some of the orange cushions brought by the HBO stylists still grace the chairs at reception. A room to the side where guests are greeted with tea and towels was turned into the gift shop that was robbed, and the majority of Gaitok’s and Mook’s scenes

were shot in the resort entranceway.

The rear of the resort is dominated by a long manmade pond full of white lotuses and giant lily pads, a deliberate design feature by Harvard-trained architect and hotel designer Bill Bensley who is responsible for hundreds of hospitality projects worldwide.

“What I love about Bill Bensley is that he is an architect who loves to bring a story to a place,” says Thomas. “We started digging into the history and all this area was a coconut plantation that was a safe haven for fisherman so they would come here having the shade of palms and a natural source of drinking water. So that is the story he tried to convey with the garden where the white lotuses are blooming – and they were here before the show by the way!”

For dinner, we are whisked across the island to the final Anantara property which doubled as the fictional high-end stay: Anantara Lawana Resort Koh Samui.

The focal point of this Anantara is a 120-year-old tree whose vintage limbs are intertwined with the signature restaurant, Treetops, and the Singing Bird Lounge bar.

It’s sunset and the bar is living up to its name as birdsong permeates the air, set to the maraca-like rhythm of a very busy bar shaking up avian-themed concoctions. But a couple of new menu items have come home to roost, named after The White Lotus’ Thai characters Mook and Gaitok. The Mook is a riff on a margarita but I opt for the Gaitok, which mixes smoky mezcal with lychee liqueur, coconut and pandan syrup; as a bit of a tiki fan for me it was less about the ingredients and more about the wide-eyed ceramic owl it arrives in, which is a hoot.

Anantara Bophut

The lotus in Thailand is said to represent enlightenment because of the way in which the flower floats beatifically on the calm surface of the water far above the mud (or carnal desires) where it takes root. As such you see it as decoration in many parts of Thailand where it is common to see the petals folded neatly. We are given an

FROM TOP: the welcome monkeys at Anantara Bophut Resort & Spa Koh Samui; the Bill Bensley-designed garden; a scene from The White Lotus OPPOSITE: the pool area at Anantara Bophut Koh Samui.

Koh Samui

impromptu lotus-folding lesson at the bar and it is harder than it looks. Mine looks less like a beacon of spirituality and more like a scrunched-up tissue.

The following morning, we head beyond the resorts for a tour of Koh Samui and to our first stop of Wat Phra Yai for a dose of Boooodhism. This temple is on Ko Phan, a tiny island connected via a causeway. It is a bustling spot lined with shops selling everything from knick-knacks to NBA singlets and at the top of a daunting flight of stairs sits the Big Buddha, backed by a golden dharma wheel, and prayed to by little golden monkeys kneeling on red pillows that nod to other religions on the island like Animism and Brahminism.

Koh Samui is also home to the Samui Elephant Sanctuary, which provides a quiet home for animals rescued from the logging and entertainment industries. The sanctuary has come up with a novel way for visitors to interact with the

animals on their own terms as the giant beasts roam freely and guests walk above them on a wooden skywalk. This birdseye view is a great way to observe the elephants and towards the end of the experience the walkway dips low enough that the curious animals can wander over and raise their trunks to ask for a treat in the form of bananas and sugar cane.

We return once again to Anantara Bophut Resort & Spa Koh Samui to collect our bags as its time to leave. Unlike the fictional guests in The White Lotus we have had no drama, no intrigue and everyone is leaving in fine fettle, thanks to luxuriant accommodation, muscle-melting massages and fabulous food and wine. It is the Ratcliff matriarch, Victoria, I am channelling as we leave. I have news for my family when I get home: “I just don’t think, at this age, I’m meant to live an uncomfortable life. I don’t have the will.”

CLOCKWISE, FROM TOP LEFT: the Singing Bird Lounge at Anantara Lawana Resort Koh Samui; the Big Buddha at Wat Phra Yai; moments before the messy finale of The White Lotus at Anantara Mai Khao Phuket. OPPOSITE: the Phuket coastline.

Anantara Lawana Resort

A century of service

With its two venerable properties fresh from recent renovations, Ra es is celebrating the fact that it has been o ering almost 100 years of luxurious Cambodian adventure. Ron Gluckman visits Phnom Penh and Siem Reap in old-world style.

We’re watching Cambodian dancers move on stage to anthems of one of the world’s great empires, the Khmer, which ruled a vast stretch of South-East Asia a millennium ago. They built roads and waterworks rivalling Rome’s, and scores of grand cities, including Angkor, one of the world’s grandest ancient capitals, six kilometres from where we sit at Marquee, a dining room at Raffles Grand Hotel d’Angkor, the landmark heritage hotel in Siem Reap.

Done up in grandiose French-Indochinese style – water flows through the mouths of two lion fountains at the entrance – Raffles showcases the Asian influences that swept Europe after word spread about the Angkor ruins, first sighted in the 16th century by European explorers. Tourists flocked by the thousands on long journeys by boat, then road, and eventually by elephant into dense jungle after the hotel opened in 1932.

“They would board elephants right here, on a ramp where we are sitting,” says Cedrick Ragel, marketing and communications manager for the hotel, and its sister property, Raffles Hotel Le Royal, which is even older. That white Art Deco masterpiece in the Cambodian capital of Phnom Penh opened in 1929.

Both are among the grand dames of Asia’s heritage hotels, offering unparalleled luxury even after surviving civil war, the murderous Khmer Rouge, and decades of neglect. Both have also undergone recent renovations, expanded and spruced up spectacularly as the pair of heritage properties, near the age of 100, look ahead to a second century of service.

OPPOSITE: the pool at Raffles Grand Hotel d’Angkor, a heritage hotel in Siem Reap, Cambodia. FROM TOP: the hotel is an ideal base for exploring the ruins and temples surrounding Angkor Wat; the hotel has been serving travellers for over 100 years; Raffles Grand Hotel d’Angkor has been recently renovated.

At Raffles Grand Hotel d’Angkor, everything centres on Angkor, the world wonder that became a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1992. Elephant tours halted in the 400 square kilometre site of temples and forest, teeming with monkeys and gibbons. Instead, visitors tour Angkor by car, mini-bus, bike or tuk tuk.

Or, best of all, by Vespa!

The morning after the Marquee performance, our group departs at first light on colourful Vespas. Even though it’s hot and humid, breezes refresh as we zip past the tourist traffic. We soak up unique views, and the chatter of tropical birds and hypnotic chanting of cicadas. Plus, it’s a fast, fashionable way to tour Angkor’s attractions, allowing us to make stops on side roads without the crush of tourist buses.

At several spots, we hike hillside trails to magnificently sculpted shrines and archways overlooking roads into the ancient capital. We savour birds’-eye views, marvelling at temple tops poking out from the verdant jungle canopy.

Even better, next morning Alessandro Vannucci shares Angkor’s hidden gems. The Italian photographer moved to Cambodia in 2008, working at Angkor Travel Photography. Even after dozens of trips to Angkor since my first visit in 1993, I’m stunned at how he magically conjures original viewpoints and insights. I loved his tips not only for the best places to shoot, but advice about framing for maximum beauty. And my group applauded his tips for phone photography and Instagram enthusiasts.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: a wild elephant in Angkor, which became a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1992; traditional Khmer dancers; exploring Angkor Wat on a Vespa. OPPOSITE, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: Raffles Grand Hotel d’Angkor has been restored to its former glory; the spa area; restaurant 1932 has some of the best food in Cambodia.

Drenched from hours of hiking in the jungle, clamouring over stone temples, we retreat to Raffles for a luxe respite, heading to the enormous pool or the spa. But the history lessons happily continued. This 15-acre property is packed with art and statues. I happily pace the black-and-white Art Deco floors, viewing huge fine-art photographs by John McDermott, who spent years documenting Angkor in stunning prints – many on old infrared film. The New York Times called him the “Ansel Adams of Angkor”.

And don’t miss a ride on the Raffles’ old elevator. Made of timber and cast metal, this blast from the past is reportedly the oldest lift in Indochina, and has served celebrity visitors such as Charlie Chaplin, Charles de Gaulle and British actor Peter O’Toole – who filmed Lord Jim at Angkor.

This is expertly detailed by staff historian, Mouth Saravann, on duty since Raffles took over the property in 1997. “History is the bones of this hotel,” he says. “It’s what makes this place so special.”

And the history is served up in inventive style at Raffles’ restaurants, especially 1932, its menu filled with Cambodian spices and treats from the past. “Cambodian cuisine isn’t as well known as those to the left or right of us,” says manager Joseph Colin, referring to fare from Vietnam and Thailand. “But we’re doing our best to change that.”

Our culinary tour starts with baby lobster in local coconut and Khmer spices. Then a tangy green mango salad with smoked fish from Kampot. The main is Siem Reap roasted chicken in a rich green tamarind sauce. We finish with Cambodian chocolate, sprinkled with Kampot pepper, served with local passionfruit sorbet.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: the pool at sister property Raffles Hotel Le Royal; one of the rooms that still maintains the feel of a century ago; the hotel’s facade in Phnom Penh; dining at Raffles Hotel Le Royal. OPPOSITE: the lobby that has been recently renovated to celebrate almost a century of service.

Old-world glamour

The history lessons continue in Phnom Penh at sister property Raffles Hotel Le Royal, turning 95 this year. Major renovations expanded facilities at a property that opened as Cambodia’s premier hotel in 1929. It originally had 54 rooms; all but four claimed private bathrooms, a novelty at the time. King Sisowath Monivong presided over the opening.

A series of renovations have expanded facilities, with three wings added, boosting the room count to 175. But everything matches the original colonial look and layout. Rooms definitely seem brighter, and bigger than when I lived in Phnom Penh from 2005 to 2009. And facilities are definitely livelier, with knockout dining halls and live piano. But happily, Le Royal remains a tranquil retreat that stands out even more in this rapidly growing capital.

Still, Phnom Penh is a delightful change from nearby South-East Asian hubs such as Bangkok, Ho Chi Minh City or Jakarta. This is accentuated by our first tour by cyclo, three-

wheeled bicycle taxis once common but now largely gone from the region. We roll slowly past new parks and monuments, but marvel at the thicket of high-rises: soaring hotels and gleaming office towers clearly delineating a city in transition.

“Phnom Penh is really growing, with a great dining scene,” says Thomas Bianco, when we meet for coffee. The French native spent 11 years with Raffles in Phnom Penh, now serving as executive assistant manager. “It’s still a peaceful place, but definitely more popular.”

While there is nothing on the level of Angkor’s temples, Phnom Penh does have plenty for the traveller to visit. There is a grand palace, and spectacular national museum, filled with artifacts from Khmer times. And more with almost every visit. Over a dozen huge pieces were shipped from the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York during my stay, part of a stream of statues repatriated to Cambodia as part of a global effort to address looting. So many are coming

back, a new museum is being planned to house all the ancient treasures.

It will join a lively scene of art galleries and music venues. But Phnom Penh remains a peaceful Asian capital largely cast in the old days of French Indochina, with a magnificent riverside promenade a short walk from Raffles. Yet it was hard to drag myself too far from the Raffles itself, with the two pools, leafy grounds and so many great restaurants.

Afternoon tea is a must in the historic Writer’s Bar, and every night is memorable at the famed Elephant Bar. Dating back to the 1929 opening, the historic room features hardwood floors, wicker chairs, and it oozes glamour. The long bar boasts 100 gins, including excellent local brands like Mekong. As bartenders shake up spirits, you can almost feel the presence of old regulars like Somerset Maugham. Or former First Lady Jacqueline Kennedy, pictured on a wall enjoying a drink here during her 1967 visit.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: scenes from the bar, dining and breakout spaces at Raffles Hotel Le Royal in Phnom Penh, the Cambodian capital that offers a quiet respite from some of the busier South-East Asian cities like Bangkok or Jakarta. OPPOSITE: the pool area.

Split

decision

On a Croatian cruise aboard Azamara Pursuit, Annabel Fuller has trouble deciding between cultural immersion on shore excursions and pure relaxation onboard but nds that, with a perfectly balanced itinerary, there is plenty of room for both.

LEFT: sailing the Dalmatian Coast aboard the Azamara Pursuit

e Adriatic glows in the golden hour as Azamara

Pursuit drifts past Dubrovnik’s fortress walls, their honeyed limestone shimmering in the dusk. I take a slow sip of Dom Pérignon.

It’s White Night onboard the Azamara Pursuit and we’re watching the old town at the foot of the Dinaric Alps grow smaller, when the gentle words of Captain Mikael Palmaroos are broadcast, inviting his 612 “dear guests” to “the best dinner party at sea”.

From port to starboard, the deck is draped in white. Fairy lights shimmer overhead and chefs ignite the grills; silver trays weave between guests, and laughter spills into the air like music. Some guests arrive in sequins and silk, others in fur-trimmed coats. A few – caught off guard by the dress code – raise glasses in their Croatian-flag tees, a bold fashion statement

I am on Azamara Pursuit’s nine-night Croatia Intensive Voyage, a deep dive into the Baltic country that is designed to upturn the reputation of cruises as a journey that just glides over the surface of the places they visit.

Over the course of the cruise, I dive from craggy cliffs into the bracing Adriatic, where

the brackish waters keep me buoyant under the radiant sun and hike the rugged trails of Kamacnik Canyon, an oasis of mountains, creeks and valleys tucked deep within Croatia’s hinterland, the journey culminating in a refreshing dip at Kamacnik Spring.

In Dubrovnik, I cycle through wine- and olive-growing valleys, complete with tastings and a crash course in Croatian history and explore the Old Town, tracing labyrinthine streets where Game of Thrones fans recognise every turret and tower.

The first time I attempt a backflip into the Adriatic, it’s anything but graceful.

It’s the third day of my journey aboard Azamara Pursuit, and during a spur-ofthe-moment day trip ashore, I find myself perched on the sun-warmed deck of a Beneteau 42 yacht, anchored just off the coast of Zadar.

Behind me, my fellow day-trippers cheer me on: “Go on! You’ve got this!” says Claire,

Azamara Pursuit is based in Europe between March and October, with most cruises focused on destination immersion sailings in countries such as Italy, Greece, France, Spain or Croatia. After a series of sailings in Egypt, the Middle East and Southeast Asia, the ship heads to Australia in November 2025 for her triumphant second season in local waters.

my newfound friend. Captain Mikael, a sunweathered Croatian with a knowing smile, gives me a nod: “Don’t think too much. Just jump.”

Caught between fear and the thrill of letting go, I jump. For one glorious second I am weightless. Then the water swallows me and I break the surface with a gasp, limbs flailing, as applause erupts from the deck

Later on the journey I plunge headlong into the eastern city of Split. The ship moors just steps from Diocletian’s Palace, its honeyhued arches visible from my Egyptian cottondraped bed.

Portside I meet my guide, Luka Novak, who leads a small group tour through the labyrinthine stone alleys, where the scent of freshly baked soparnik (pies) mingles with the salty breeze.

“Split isn’t just history,” Luka says, gesturing towards the weathered limestone walls that have stood for over 1,700 years. “It’s a city that breathes, a city that’s still writing its story.”

At Luka’s recommendation, I find myself at a tucked-away konoba (local kitchen), staring down at a dish as black as midnight: a glossy mound of cuttlefish ink risotto with squid. The risotto is briny and unexpectedly rich. “The Adriatic isn’t just our livelihood,” Luka says, raising his glass of crisp Pošip. “It’s our inspiration.”

Dalmatian delights

Every Azamara voyage features an “AzAmazing Evening”, an immersive cultural event bringing each destination to life.

As we leave Split and the lights dim in the ship’s theatre, a soprano’s voice soars – clear, haunting – drawing us into a centuries-old story. An actress steps forward, dressed in flowing white, and begins to recount the legend of Roman Emperor Diocletian, who built his grand retirement palace in Split. Through a mix of spoken word, live music,

and traditional Dalmatian klapa (a capella) harmonies, the performance traces his journey from humble soldier to ruler of the empire, and his decision to spend his final days on these shores.

The voices swell around me. Just hours earlier, I was walking the worn stones of Diocletian Palace – now, that history is echoing through the room. It’s not just a performance, it’s Azamara’s way of letting the destination linger a little longer.

This is what sets Azamara apart from other cruises: immersive travel that extends beyond ports, with itineraries designed for deeper cultural connection. Our Croatia Intensive Voyage takes us from Chioggia (a charming port town an hour south of Venice) to Athens in Greece, sailing through the Adriatic, Montenegro and the Ionian Sea. Each day delivers hours to explore a new city before returning to the ship, ready for the next adventure.

Despite the pull of shore, life onboard is just as enticing. Deck 9 is a sanctuary, its pool and twin Jacuzzis the perfect retreat. Reclining on a daybed here, book and drink in hand, becomes my go-to sea-day ritual.

When the weather turns, I tuck into the Drawing Room’s well-stocked library or curl up in the Living Room’s high-backed wing

THIS SPREAD: Azamara provides a range of countryintensive itineraries so guests can really understand a cruising destination.

chairs – my “purple throne” – occasionally emerging for trivia contests.

The ship’s neutral-toned interiors – soft greys, creams and stone hues – evoke the natural beauty of the destinations I’m sailing through. Suites gleam with elegant furnishings, featuring butler service and luxurious details. The Sanctum Spa is a haven, while specialty dining at Prime C offers exquisite degustation dinners paired with European wines.

The relatively small number of people on board (612 on our trip, with a maximum capacity of 702) hail from Belgium and Germany, Canada and Hong Kong and 19 other nations besides the US, UK and Australia when the majority reside.

There’s Miche and Rose, fellow Melburnians and cruise veterans, with whom we bond over our 100,000-kilometresaway shared postcode and our affinity for Colin Firth.

There’s Juliette and Arthur Martin, French retirees on back-to-back voyages, their

enthusiasm so infectious it’s no surprise they’ve already booked their next Azamara cruise.

For those, like me, sailing alone, Azamara makes connection effortless with organised meetups for LGBTQ+ travellers, singles, and solo adventurers and participatory entertainment like karaoke, cocktail classes and destination lectures.

And, most unexpectedly, the laundry room.

Here, in the hum of fresh linen tumbling in dryers, I strike up conversations with others waiting for their spin cycles. A U.S. Navy veteran, a British professor, a New York theatre producer – our impromptu circle swaps travel stories over batch-brew coffee, forming a camaraderie so strong that, by the voyage’s end, we have Facebook connections and plans for a reunion.

On our final morning, Azamara Pursuit sails into Athens and I realise that this cruise is a masterclass in balance: between indulgence and adventure, cultural immersion and ultimate relaxation.

FROM TOP: a day trip in Split; sipping coffee on the cliffs of Dubrovnik.

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CHEF AND OWNER MARGARET, SONG BIRD, NEXT DOOR AND BAKER BLEU IN DOUBLE BAY

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