Phool Patti Ka Kaam: Reviving a Traditional Indian Appliqué Embroidery By Farah Usmani
Phool Patti Ka Kaam is a traditional hand embroidery style from Aligarh district in North India. This delicate appliqué embroidery is also practiced in Rampur, Uttar Pradesh. Phool Patti dates back to the Mughal period. In this textile decoration style, very small pieces of fine cotton fabric are cut and dexterously folded and shaped into tiny petals, leaves and other shapes. This special embroidery finds limited mention in the repertoire of Indian as well as global appliqué embroidery forms. Also, there is no publication on the subject. A photographic journey, Phool Patti Ka Kaam explores its background, scope and artisans. A finely illustrated book, Phool Patti Ka Kaam takes us through the different patti shapes, arrays of intricate designs and materials. It collates experiments with embellishments and innovations, including on different garments and household furnishings and introduces the artisans from Aligarh. Phool Patti Ka Kaam is the story of this embroidery told through glimpses of Saleha Khan’s work with the women and girls from Aligarh during the 1970’s and 80’s. Phool Patti Ka Kaam is for those who want to appreciate, learn, promote, work, explore and experiment with this unique appliqué embroidery.
Designer & Writer Duo Saleha Khan is the designer and entrepreneur of the phool-patti creations in this book. She worked with the artisans in Aligarh for over a decade and contributed to reviving this less known appliqué embroidery. Her work enhanced its scope and diversified its use on different garments and household furnishings. Mrs. Khan did not receive any formal training in design, her masters degree is in chemistry from the Jiwaji University at Gwalior India. Besides her work with phool-patti and earlier as a teacher, Mrs. Khan coordinated and implemented capacity development and income generation initiatives for poor and underserved women. She now lives a retired life in Lucknow.
Farah Usmani is a health and development professional. She spent several years growing up and studying in Aligarh. Her interest was sparked in phool-patti embroidery through her mother, Saleha Khan’s work. Her doctoral degree in medicine (M.D.) is in obstetrics and gynaecology and she completed her masters in health policy, planning and financing from the London School of Economics. Dr. Usmani works as an Adviser with the United Nations and is currently based at the UNFPA Headquarters in New York.
About the Book It is hoped that this book, a first on the subject, would trigger the interest and creativity among young as well as established designers to experiment with this unique appliqué style and advance its scope, popularity and possibilities. All the designs and creative ideas by Saleha Khan in this book can be freely used, adapted and replicated to encourage promotion of phool patti ka kaam for advancement of its artisans – particularly marginalized women and girls. All proceeds from the publication and sale of this book are for SAFAR (Supporting Action For Advancement and Rights), to contribute towards expanding income generation activities for marginalized women which Saleha Khan initiated in her home town of Gwalior.
For more information: http://phool-patti.blogspot.com/