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frontrow â‚Ź3,95 | # 3 |AW 11/12

We love Amsterdam Fashion

26/30 January 2011


Frontrow Editor in Chief Harriet Calo  Art direction Dorien Franken www.dorienfranken.nl  Fashion Director Simone Dernee  Photographer Peter Stigter  Fashion Editor Inge Holkenborg  Editors Rowan Hewison Renske Hoff Jamie Valerie Li Ellen Litz Annemarie van Looij Rinke Tjepkema Petra Vethman  AIFW Organisation Merle Deterink Stéphanie Floor Holly Syrett Harm Jan Keizer Hans van der Linden Bart Maussen Wouter Zick Judith Hafkamp Benthe Bosma  COO Print Henk Scheenstra  Publisher Sanne Visser  Sales Rob Zomer Leoni Verweij  Printer Habo DaCosta  Contributors Stefanie Kreek, Peggy Sommer (unit55.nl), Mies de Vries  cover image Photography by Peter Stigter, Lichting 2010 supported by G-Star Raw

4 | frontrow | winter 2011

SS 11 / Individuals by amfi


AW 10/11 END

Frontrow

Contents P08 P10 P16 P18 P20 P28 P30 P36 P40 P42 P51 P52 P59 P60 P66 P70 P74 P76 P82

Editors Intro News Questionnaire The Beginning Frontrow Frontrow The Next Generation So Last Season Fashion Fasterclass Total Agenda Designer Profile Green Competition Backstage SS 11 Expert Meeting / Exhibition Fashion Portrait The Scene Downtown's Best Street Style Frontrow Publishers The Final Exit

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Merle Deterink and Harriet Calo The Style Guide to AIFW Interview with AIFW's New Owners Let's Start Lucky Bastards Bookers & Models Catwalk Highlights SS11 Seminars and Special Classes AIFW Programme and Line Up Shows, LAB, Presentation and Events Eight Proud Finalists Oh, You Pretty Things Dutch Fashion / Steven Klein The Rise and Rise of Jan Taminiau Look at You! Downtown Hot Spots and Highlights Sidewalk/Catwalk Sanoma Glossies by Numbers Hello and Goodbye


ER IS MEER IN HET LEVEN DAN EEN VOLVO. het staren naar een wit canvas. Kijken en Vinden. Onbeperkte mogelijkheden zien. Er is trefzeker de eerste lijn op papier zetten. Verwondering. Fouten durven maken. Streven naar perfectie in elk ontwerp. uit niets iets maken. Er is je dromen verwezenlijken in het ultieme design en de wereld ermee versteld doen staan. DAAROM RIJD je de nieuwe VOLVO c30. Volvo is sponsor van de AIFW.

DE VOLVO C30. Volvo. for life Volvo C30 v.a. € 19.995,- incl. btw, excl. kosten rijklaarmaken, verwijderingsbijdrage. Leasen v.a. € 459,- p.m., excl. btw en brandstof, o.b.v. Full Operational Lease, 60 mnd, 20.000 km p.j., Volvo Car Lease: 0345-68 87 80 (kantooruren). Wijzigingen voorbehouden.

Gem. verbruik: 3,8 - 9,0 l/100 km (26,3 - 11,1 km/l), gem. CO2-uitstoot resp. 99 - 211 g/km.


Editors Intro

“We love AIFW, we celebrate fashion”

Editor of Frontrow Harriet Calo and Event director of AIFW Merle Deterink share some thoughts on Amsterdam International Fashion Week.

H

ariet Calo: A new fashion week, so I guess you must have made a detailed schedule for your own day-to-day wardrobe. What are the essentials? Merle Deterink: Lots of shoes! Even the comfiest shoes aren’t comfortable if you wear them for 20 hours. I go for variation. From platforms to pumps to sneakers backstage. And I focus on layers. Although I am very much a dress person, you really need to layer up during winter editions of AIFW. One minute you’re on stage presenting something and the next you’re on your bike to downtown. hc: What makes this 14th edition of AIFW special? md: The new division of the location. Those who have been to AIFW before will really be surprised. We will be significantly upping the ante for the international positioning of Amsterdam as a fashion capital. At present we rank sixth among European fashion cities, a position that we are proud of and need to sustain each season.AIFW is a newborn compared to fashion weeks such as Paris and Milan. We can never compare with Paris, for example, and wouldn’t want to. AIFW is developing its own style and role. 8 | frontrow | winter 2011

hc: Buzz, excitement, a never-ending flow of new designers, so thrilling to attend to the launch of every new fashion season. md: It really is. It makes me feel so proud that we can offer this stage and make it possible to see Dutch fashion here and now. hc: Fashion is important. Dressing well, being fashionable, looking beautiful, all this has become a cultural duty, more than ever before. And commercial pressure on designers is getting to be so great. md: I agree, fashion touches every person’s body and is second only to food and drink. A lot is demanded of designers. They have to be multi-talented entrepreneurs who can create amazing artworks and then be able to produce them and retail them. That is why we have developed a program to assist all designers to develop their business skills. hc: So fashion week in Amsterdam is more than viewing catwalk shows? md: Most definitely. It’s a fashion celebration! We celebrate fashion on the catwalk, in exhibitions, shopping routes, all sorts of presentations, and through parties of course, lots of fashionable parties. And a swell fashion party it will be.1


Start je eigen stijl Online bladeren met Mobiel Breedband: ons netwerk is er klaar voor.


Frontrow News

the style guide to aifw by rinke tjepkema

tibi boucle belted, my-wardrobe.com

camel fur

french connection

because karl says we can

street style superstars

Jean Paul Paula, Dutch fashion icon

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Stephanie Floor, Programme and Communications Manager AIFW

Sylvia van der Klooster, model, muse,designer

go gaga

for her first few collections, iris van herpen sent out models with bare feet, since shoes were an art the perfectionist had not yet mastered. then along came united nude and the iris was born. statement footwear doesn’t come any bigger than this.

image iris van herpen

Only one month of winter left before it’s time to store away the layers of wool, thermal underwear and sheepskin. Use it to wrap yourself in some comfy fantasy fur. For the simple reason that Kaiser Karl gave us: ‘You cannot fake chic, but you can be chic in fake fur.’


the lips have it

lady geek

Young Daphne Groenevelds’ stratospheric rise in the fashion industry involved, among other things, a cover of Vogue Paris in her second season as a model. Personally selected by none other than guest editor Tom Ford, she stole the show all red-lipped and wavy-haired. She has the best lips in the business. Rumour has it, Angelina Jolie wants her crown back. Here, Daphne at Calvin Klein, Pucci and Gucci.

get ready for the big cover-up with these chic covers for your mobile devices.

Smythson iPad cover

Rika bag

Céline smartphone pouch

Rika leather iPhone hanger

Balenciaga smartphone sleeve

Marc by Marc Jacobs iPad cover

rising star

Micha Models’ latest discovery Iris Egbers took Paris by storm this season with appearances at Céline, Dries van Noten and Alexander McQueen. Her delicate features put a spell on Hugh Lippe and Karen Langley who shot her for Brit mag Dazed & Confused. What’s next?

how to survive fashion week

by photographer Jeannette Huisman Great, comfy boots I can run everywhere with, red lipstick to always look fresh, fully charged batteries (for my Canon, and myself), playtime in the evenings with Teampeterstigter, and loads and loads of pasta with a little kick of tequila!

how to be glamourous

by Supertrash owner Olcay Gulsen Put on your highest heels, so you look tall and skinny;-) Dress over the top, but act effortless. Always be nice. Nice people are so much prettier. Never be the first and never be the last. frontrow | winter 2011 |

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Frontrow News

lust, must

bloggers favorites

The country’s biggest fashion bloggers select their personal Dutch Fashion Favourites from Spring Summer 2011.

Rika Bag

Headphones Marc by Marc Jacobs

Kusmi tea

Rika Leopard Bag

Papabubble Liquorice

Cupcakes

Sabrina Meijer, www.afterdrk.com

‘This is not something I would run errands in (except perhaps the shoes), but something intrigues me in this Iris van Herpen look. I love how she mixes art with fashion and plays with materials. She definitely makes me proud of being Dutch.’ Yara Michels, www.thischicksgotstyle.com

dagmar

‘No one beats the Swedes at creating feminine yet laidback outfits. House of Dagmar shows us a pretty, playful look that takes you from day to night just by adding a pair of platform pumps and an oversized clutch.’

model bags her unique vintage boho style inspired model sylvia van der klooster to start her own line of leather bags, now available at kabinet amsterdam. expect understated satchels with a worn-in feel, not loud bling. just the way we like it.

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an arm full The coolest wrists in the business collect pretty hardware with names like Pamela Love, Eddie Borgo and Loree Rodkin plus the odd Rolex thrown in for good measure. Why stop at only one bracelet when you can wear, say, fifteen?

iris van herpen


Frontrow News

how stella got her groove back

all the pretty photographers Forget the Sartorialist, the coolest street style photographers of today are fashion-minded, very pretty women who switch effortlessly between their model and photographer roles. Strike a pose!

pass that dutch not long ago, mirte maas was a student in breda, lisanne de jong strutted her stuff on some amsterdam catwalks and patricia van der vliet was a reality-tv runner-up. now they’re new yorkers and the stars of the quintessential american designer’s show, calvin klein. and much to the photographers’ delight, they are happy to pose together backstage. 14 | frontrow | winter 2011

bling ring Random things front row likes this season. To look at, play with or simply devour like this Soho Hearts Ring.

photography brunopress, peter stigter, net-a-porter, david lloyd-evans, andy torres, www.stylescrapbook.com

So many people asked lifestyle editor and global traveller Stella Willing for her expert advice on cool places to go abroad that she decided to make it her day job. Stella knows where to head, whether in Berlin or Buenos Aires and, on top of that, she makes the coolest jewellery. Find her at www.bystella.nl


ONTDEK µ SPUMANTE

ENJOY YOUR µ SPUMANTE Naast vermout maakt µ al sinds haar oprichting in 1863 heerlijke 'sparkling wines' of zoals men in het Italiaans zegt: Spumante. De bekendste spumante is µ Prosecco. Maar er zijn ook 3 andere varianten verkrijgbaar. Een drogere µ Brut, een licht zoete µ Rosé en een zoetere µ Asti. U vindt ze o.a. bij C1000, Super de Boer, Jumbo en de zelfstandige slijter.


Frontrow Questionnaire

Please allow us to introduce ourselves Did you hear? AIFW has been sold! That’s what was humming around Westergasfabriek last July. Time to get to know the two new owners and hear some of their plans. interview petra vethman photography peter stigter

H

ow would you describe your relationship to fashion? Fashion inspires me, because of its exiting connection to photography, film, art, architecture and literature. Why did you buy Amsterdam International Fashion Week? To make a success of it. What do you want to achieve with AIFW? To transform it from a fashion event into a fashion platform. Where should AIFW be in three years? It should be the professionals’ portal to fashion trends and the fashion industry. What has been the highlight of your career? The organization of Taste of Amsterdam, a high-end culinary event. What has been a low point in your career? Thinking it would be a good idea, as director of a design company, to open an office in Brussels. What’s the most important lesson you’ve learnt in business? Stick to your agreements; do what you’ve agreed to do. And enjoy doing good things for other people. How much money do you spend on fashion in a year? Less than my wife. How much time do you spend on your looks on a regular day? 20 minutes. What are your favourite fashion brands? Armani, Jacob Cohen and Corneliani. Best-dressed woman? Audrey Hepburn. Best-dressed man? George Clooney. What keeps you going on a bad day? The urge to do it better than the day before. What is your philosophy? Judge people on their behaviour, not their origins.On what do you spend too much money? Gadgets. What needs work? Persuading myself to leave executive tasks to my team, to leave me free to focus more on strategy. What is your strongest point? My perseverance. What is your weakest point? My perfectionism. Which book do you keep buying for other people? The Da Vinci Code by Dan Brown. Which song should be played at your funeral? Save the Last Dance for Me by Michael Bublé. Who do you admire and why? Nelson Mandela, because he personifies ‘never give up’. What makes you angry? Laziness. What is your most treasured possession? My health. What or who is the love of your life? My family. Which words or expression do you overuse? Dat kan beter. (That can be done better.) What makes you happy? Holidaying in a tropical country. What is your biggest fear? Falling seriously ill. What’s your current state of mind? Don’t worry, be happy! 16 | frontrow | winter 2011

Name Profession Education Off duty

Hans van der Linden (50) Organizer of events HEAO Business Economics Married, two children


Name Bart Maussen (44) Profession PR specialist, image strategist & personal coach Education Institute for Automotive Management London Polytechnic / London School of Economics Off duty In a relationship

Bart Maussen

“I want the government to promote Dutch fashiondesigners”

D

escribe your relationship to fashion? I have been fascinated by fashion since I was a little boy. Professionally, I’ve been involved with fashion since 1995. Why did you buy Amsterdam International Fashion Week? As a PR professional I see an enormous potential in extending the AIFW brand. My colleagues and I can bring in specific knowhow, our network and our passion for fashion. What do you want to achieve with AIFW? The creation of a stronger platform for young designers and existing fashion labels, getting fashion top-ofthe-mind amongst consumers plus getting the government involved in promoting Dutch fashion designers and Dutch design in general. Where should AIFW be in three years? Amsterdam ranking as the fifth fashion capital of Europe and being considered as one of the best highquality fashion platforms, with many more fashion initiatives. What has been the highlight of your career? The day I started to combine my PR expertise with personal branding and the coaching of CEOs, artists, sportsmen and politicians. What has been a low point in your career? A client leaving us after 15 years of devoted service. What’s the most important lesson you’ve learnt in business? Try to trust people but always be careful. How much money do you spend on fashion in a year? I’d rather not say. How much time do you spend on your

looks on a regular day? Five to ten minutes. What are your favourite fashion brands? Zegna, Armani, Girbaud, G-star, Suit Supply, Hans Ubbink, Scotch & Soda. Best dressed woman? Doutzen Kroes and Princess Maxima. Best dressed man? Prince Charles. What keeps you going on a bad day? My passion for life. What is your philosophy? To try to be the best in being different. On what do you spend too much money? Gadgets, cars, holidays. What needs work? My hair. What’s your strongest point? I love meeting new people. What’s your weakest point? I’m very impatient. Which book do you keep buying for other people? Tibetan Rites, Fountain of Youth. Which music should be played at your funeral? Mozart’s Requiem. Whom do you admire and why? Creative people being successful in business. It’s not easy to be both. Who or what makes you angry? Liars, discrimination and lazy people. What is your most treasured possession? My handmade Volvo Bertone. What or who is the love of your life? My partner Flip and classical music. Which words or expression do you overuse? Mooi!’ What makes you happy? The sun, happy people, a relaxing atmosphere, coaching, new clients and projects. What is your biggest fear? That I can’t speak freely. What’s your current state of mind? Relaxed multi-tasking.1

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The Beginning

An empty runway 64 meters long, more than three hundred lights above and beside it, eighty sound boxes, a seven-meter-high backdrop, seven hundred seats, eight mega projectors and 144 people running around to make it all work. Because only the best is good enough for the dresses of Jan Taminiau, Bas Koster, SuperTrash and Spijkers en Spijkers, and all the other AIFW designers. After six hours of very hard work everything changes in a split-second. Suddenly there’s the noise of fashion chit-chat, high heels searching for a place to rest, air kisses, clicking cameras, PR-girls running around to seat the VIPs, people shouting hello from one row to another. And all this goes on until the lights are dimmed and the dj plays the first song, let’s say the newest Hercules and Love Affair. And there she is, the first model with the first outfit steps onto the catwalk. Will the heel be high or low? And what about the new silhouette? Is it tight or wide? And finally even the most talkative people are quiet. photography peter stigter 18 | frontrow | winter 2011


FW 10 / Collectie Arnhem frontrow | winter 2011 |

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allard honigh

john lukken

iebele van der meulen stephanie floor

bas kosters

merle deterink

morris

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ronald kolk

jan janssen bastiaan van schaik

jildou van der bijl lenny gerdes

arie boomsma

frans molenaar

dj sunny

remco de nijs

jordy huinder kieu vuong

indiana voss esther meijer

jean paul paula

rinke tjepkema bonnie orleans voss

peter leferink aynouk tan

renau hashyap

claudia straatmans

cara schiffelers

kassandra mariana verkerk

victoria koblenko don diablo

cecile narinx

mo ahwar judith ter haar


mark smith

delia drel

hanna verboom mattijs

ferry van der nat

susan smit

nikki plessen hester wernert

john de greef

lieke van lexmond

marie nanette schaepman

Frontrow Frontrow

lucky bastards They are Amsterdam fashion’s beau monde, the professionally obsessed, the happy crowd. They are the most powerful fashion critics; an exuberant mix of the press, society and celebrity grandees. They fill the most coveted seats in the Zuiveringshal, winter, summer, winter and summer again. A seat in the front row is hard-won. And that’s daan brand

just one reason never to give it up, even if the waiting is tedious and the hall is freezing cold or too hot. It’s the anticipation of an excruciatingly beautiful new collection, the potential for a magic moment that addicts them to Amsterdam International Fashion Week. So now there’s nothing left to do but wait and wait and watch.1 photograhy peter stigter

im fong li esther coppoolse

hilmar mulder oscar raaijmakers

angie smith (entertainment tonight canada)

may-britt mobach

martien mellema karin sweerink

carlo wijnands

harriet calo

fiona hering stacey rookhuizen

michou basu simone dernee

dominique lap

frontrow | winter 2011 |

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Make Up Artists

backstage beauty 22 | frontrow | winter 2011


Maybelline New York is the official Make-up Artist for many Fashion Weeks, amongst which Amsterdam. Before the models enter the runway many hours of elaborate and luxuriant colour and shine is applied to their lovely faces. Clayton Leslie, make-up artist of Maybelline New York tells about this seasons’ trends. photography peter stigter, christian fournier maybelline new york

frontrow | winter 2011 |

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Lashes and Liner

eyes look sexy 24 | frontrow | winter 2011

Whether you want wavy, long, or thick lashes, with Maybelline anything goes! Add some eyeliner for extra femininity and emphasis. So very sexy! Maybelline Volum’Express Falsies Black Drama Mascara €13,99, Define a Liner Liquid €8,49, Eyestudio Color Cosmos Bronze Seduction €9,99.


Foundation

skin is perfect

No matter from which row a member of the audience is watching, the models have to reveal a fresh, smooth, and gorgeous skin. Superstay 24H is a covering foundation that performs perfectly, even if the models have to wait for hours before it is their turn to shine. Maybelline Superstay 24H Foundation â‚Ź13,99, Dream Matte Mousse â‚Ź13,49. frontrow | winter 2011 |

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Lipstick

Lips are red 26 | frontrow | winter 2011

The ultimate flirtatious lips are a bold hot red (as seen here in SIS by Spijkers en Spijkers SS/2011). The name of the colour leaves no room for doubt: ‘Lady Red’. For a fixed feminine feel nothing beats practiced perfection. Embrace the lipbrush. Maybelline Color Sensational Lipstick, Lady Red €14,49


Clayton Leslie

Red lips are everlasting. If red suits you, that is.

Lipcolor 24H

Red To Stay

Also for runway models a fashion show means endless hours of waiting. That is where a longlasting lipstick becomes vital. Maybelline’s Superstay 24H Lipcolor is easy to apply and gives a vibrant and passionate red. 24H. Maybelline Superstay 24H Lipcolor Red Passion €13,99

frontrow | winter 2011 |

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The Next Generation

Bookers & Models These four bookers work for young, fresh agencies, scouting and guiding new modelling talent. For Frontrow they reveal one of their most promising models. interview ellen litz

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code management Model: Imaan Age: 14 Agent: Marit Simons

future faces Model: Josefien Age: 17 Agent: Astrid van den Worm

Marit Simons ‘I’m extremely proud of all the girls we represent. I chose Imaan, however, because she has an amazing background. She’s half Egyptian, half Moroccan, which is a rare mix to find in Holland. Imaan has the most astonishing profile. When I spotted her at a train station I knew right away she was special. Because she’s so young, and still at school, we’re slowly guiding her into the modelling life. I do see a great future for her as a high fashion model. With her special face and long limbs she has the potential to be great both at editorial shoots and on the runway. It is our goal to work towards a high-profile career.’

Astrid van den Worm ‘Josefien isn’t the typical, classical beauty; she’s got an extremely powerful facial expression. So far Prada, Balenciaga and Miu Miu have all shown interest in her, and we haven’t even started with her yet because she still has to finish high school. As well as a unique face, Josefien has the prefect measurements, an amazing walk and great charisma. Given her ambitious attitude, discipline, looks and great personality I can see her reaching the top. Others can see that too; the phone has been ringing off the hook. Casting directors, agencies, magazines; they all want her. So we are carefully planning her career. American and French Vogue, possibly a high-end campaign, are all within Josefien’s reach.’


skin model management Model: Ilse Age:19 Agent: Samuel Ettedry

micha models Model: Carolien M. (Meijer) Age: 16 Agent: Micha Krijger

Samuel Ettedry ‘There are many reasons why I like Ilse. She has a very special face, almost androgynous and she works extremely hard and never complains, which is rare in this business. When we signed Ilse, she wasn’t the right size, but we trained her and she’s developed really very well. Right now she has many bookings as an editorial model. Magazines in Italy love her: Marie Claire, L'Officiel, Harper's Bazaar UK have all booked her for shoots. Our aim is to take her to the top in the coming year. I see her doing campaigns for Louis Vuitton, Marc Jacobs, Prada, Miu Miu. As a runway model, her height of 1 meter 75 makes her a bit short for this year’s taste, but you never know what the designers will be looking for next year.’

Micha Krijger ‘It’s almost an impossible task to pick one model to highlight. For me that’s like asking a parent which of their children is the nicest. The reason I’ve chosen Caroline is because I think she has an amazing future ahead of her as an international model. Right now she’s very busy with school, so we’re taking it slowly. But she already signed with Women Management in New York, Paris and Milan. Caroline’s beauty is on the border of strange,; she has a wide-eyed face with huge lips. We are aiming for a long lasting carrier, slowly building her with the right editorials such as Vogue, Id and W magazine.With her 1.80 m tall she is perfect for the runway.’ 1

frontrow | winter 2011 |

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AIFW Highlights SS 11

SO Last

Season

Before concentrating on what Winter 2012 will bring, let’s feast our eyes on Amsterdam Fashion Week’s important pieces for Summer 2011. Let the sun shine. photography peter stigter

Lichting 2010 supported by G-Star Raw 30 | frontrow | winter 2011


AIFW Highlights SS 11

Underwear There was underwear as outerwear, with a hint of sexy. Burlesque meets glamrock and romance: so naughty, so tough, yet so girly.

Claes Iversen

Hunkemรถller

Oda Pausma

Une Petite Robe NOIRE

MC by Monique Collignon

Ado les Scents by Hyun Yeu

Sandwich

Quoc Thang

Lichting 2010

Lichting 2010

INDIVIDUALS by AMFI

Oda Pausma

Soft & Shine Austere becomes exciting and chic: just add shine. Designers loved ton sur ton and flexible textiles, so the pieces move so sweetly when you dance.

Camel the Sequel Camel was not going anywhere, though it looked brighter. It came with turquoise and purple accents to create a more youthful look.

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AIFW Highlights SS 11

Dagmar 32 | frontrow | winter 2011

SIS by Spijkers en Spijkers


AIFW Highlights SS 11

Larger than Life Look at Iris splashing with water, and the XXL knitting at Roparosa! Designers played with proportions and a new, logic-defying, silhouette was born.

MaryMe - Jimmy Paul

Roparosa

Iris van Herpen

Nicolaas.

RTF by Ilja Visser

Dagmar

Conny van Groenewegen

INDIVIDUALS by AMFI

SIS by Spijkers en Spijkers

Cold Method

Joline Jolink

NON by Kim

Golden Summer Shiny metallics shimmer all over. To keep the chic, combine gold with some black accents, and Amsterdam is where the New Golden Age begins.

New Marines To make sail go for stripes, and if that’s too stripy for your taste: opt for the delicate Delft-ware at SIS by Spijkers en Spijkers.

frontrow | winter 2011 |

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AIFW Highlights SS 11

Fred Farrow 34 | frontrow | winter 2011

Ado les Scents by Hyun Yeu


AIFW Highlights SS 11

Off Whites White is the foundation, white shows off the handwork, white is not always crispy, white is working, doing its job this summer.

Jiska van Rossum

Claes Iversen

Fred Farrow

Franciscus van der Meer

heren van koster

The Red Rail

darylvanwouw

Roparosa

Lichting 2010

Club BRILLANT

.Marloes Blaas.

Fred Farrow

Happy Reds Rather add some vitamin C? Want to stand out? Choose an outfit in red, preferably from head to toe as seen at heren van koster!

Art & Craft Safe and modest in monochrome? Thanks but no thanks. Look at those suits and dresses: the painter’s swapped his canvas for clothes.

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Pitchmeeting The Pitch Meeting is an initiative of Amsterdam International Fashion Week and Syntens, in collaboration with Amsterdam Innovation Motor, The Dutch Chamber of Commerce and Kansenkanon. After a training session in which designers are coached in methods of marketing themselves and their labels, each designer attending the pitch meeting can make a short presentation to retailers, agents, buyers, AIFW partners and investors. The participants are Linda Valkeman, ROPAROSA, Charlotte van Kan, Irene van Heldens, Mevan Kaluarachchi, MATTIJS, Elsien Gringhuis and Conny Groenewegen

36 | frontrow | winter 2011


Business Programme

Fashion Fasterclass The Fashion Fasterclass is an initiative of Amsterdam International Fashion Week and ABN Amro. The Fashion Fasterclass was set up to provide talented designers with structural commercial knowledge. The programme is created around such topics as intellectual-property law, logistics, international trade and financial matters. Here are two of the expert lecturers on their program and motivation. photography peter stigter

Manolo Marquez – Senior Banker ABN AMRO Bank How do you want people to be feeling after the Fashion Fasterclass? That everyone is satisfied with my answers to their questions and that they will want to contact me to go deeper into the financial side of their businesses. What will you be talking about? I’m going to discuss the cash flows that are essential to getting an overall financial picture of a business. I’ll give an overview of the steps that young entrepreneurs need to take in their production process, where a lot of designers struggle. I’ll answer questions like: What are the essential details a bank needs to know; what questions can you expect; how can you bear the costs? Why is it necessary for a bank to have an answer to all these kind of questions? Michiel Odink - Baker & McKenzie Lawyer in intellectual property What are you going to talk about? I’ll talk about four legal considerations that are important for starting designers. How can young designers protect their designs, logos and company names? How do they make contracts with other parties, for example foreign suppliers and customers? When should they have written agreements? How do you create a business? Should you start up as a BV, or as a sole proprietorship? Does a designer employ

other people, and if so what does that mean? How do you work with freelancers? What kind of feeling would you like people to leave the room with after the Fashion Fasterclass? At the end of the presentation I want designers to remember three essential things. That would be a success for me. I think it’s important that designers be aware that they have to make certain legal decisions in their career and that there are experts who know just what they are going through and stand ready to help them. Contributing experts ABN Amro, Syntens, Kansenkanon, Municipality of Amsterdam, Baker & McKenzie, the Dutch Chamber of Commerce, Modint and Creative Cities Amsterdam Area. Participating labels Bas Kosters, Conny Groenewegen, Elsien Gringhuis, ADO LES SCENTS by HYUN YEU, Kentroy Yearwood, LEW by Kim Leemans and Merel Wicker, Renske Versluijs, Quoc Thang, KARSSENBERG-GREIDANUS by Sanne Karssenberg and Cleo Greidanus, Linda Valkeman, Indra Welman, Irene Heldens, Mevan Kaluarachchi and ILJA VISSER.1 FOR MORE INFORMATION ABOUT ATTENDING OR PARTICIPATING IN THE BUSINESS PROGRAM, PLEASE CHECK: WWW.AMSTERDAMFASHIONWEEK.COM frontrow frontrow || winter winter 2011 || 37 37


www.sanoma-uitgevers.nl


Friday 21/1 17:00 – 20:00

Official Opening DOWNTOWN 10 x 10 by individuals by amfi

Spui 23 Open to the public Visit 10x10 from 22-30 January, 12:00-18:00

19:30

Opening Designers Market Maison de Bonneterie

Rokin 140-142 Open to the public Visit the designers market in the Maison from 22-30 January during opening hours

21:00-23:00

Roots Charlie + Mary

Gerard Doustraat 84 Open to the public Monday:13:00-18:00, Tuesday to Friday: 13:00-18:00 Saturdays:10:00-17:00

Saturday 22/1

13:00-18:00

16:00-20:00

Several locations in Amsterdam Visit www.fashionnl.com

Amsterdam RAI Europaplein 22 Pre sale: €14.50 door sale: €17.50 www.modefabriek.nl

Tweede Laurierdwarsstraat 64 24-30 January from 13:00-18:00

Agnès b Amsterdam Roking 126 By invitation only

10:00-17:30

Presentation S/S 11 collections

van Ravenstein, Keizersgracht 359 Open to the public

10:00-19:00

The ShowAtelier, HYM by Hye Yoo Mi and Kirsten Popkema Magna Plaza 2nd floor Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 182 Open to the Public

10:00-17:00

Exhibition of Argentinian Bags: Gabriela Fiori, Peter Kent and Pampa Bags Tassenmuseum Hendrikje Herengracht 573 Open to the public, €7.50

10:30-19:00

11:00-17:00

Opening: Les Femmes Vertes One day shop, Haarlemmerdijk 41 Open to the public

11:00-17:00

A’DAM, Men & Fashion

Amsterdam Historical Museum Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 357 Open to the public, €10

12:00-03:00

The House of Rising AIFW week The House of Rising Reguliersdwarsstraat 41 Open to the public

13:00-22:00

Natural Matters

downtown programme official programme by invitation only

De culinaire werkplaats Fannius Scholtenstraat 10 Open to the public

13:00-19:00

Silhouettes - Photographs by FotoFloor Galerie Eduard Planting Eerste Bloemdwarsstraat 2 links Open to the public

15:00-18:00

Meet + greet designers Hoofdzaak Hoeden ArtWear Witte de Withstraat 168 Open to the public

16:00-19:00

The official launch OntFront brand store Haarlemmerdijk 121 Open to the public

23:00-04:00

Fashion Addicted

Official Opening AIFW Panama, Oostelijke Handelskade 4 Open to the public 40 | frontrow | winter 2011

Tuesday 25/1

10:00-18:00

Fashion NL Streetwalk

Bilderdijkstraat 194 Open to the public

21-30 January 2011

Monday 24/1

09:00-18:00

Never Shown Before at Jutka & Riska

Total Agenda

Sunday 23/1 Modefabriek

10:00-22:00

Opening and Launch Party We are niche Postjesweg 64-68 Open to the public

14:00-19:00

Famiss.nl presents Spring/ Summer collection 2011 Hotel Arena 's-Gravesandestraat 51 Open to the public €10

Follow me into the abyss Artpocalypse Collective

13:00

REDKEN Press Launch Haartheater Weteringsschans 140 By invitation only

17:00-21:00

MENSWEAR, official opening exhibition RC de Ruimte Amsterdam Frans de Wollantstraat 84 Open to the public The exhibition is from 22-30 January from 12:00-17:00

19:00-20:00

fORS - presents A/W 2011 collection

Nuzyn Prinsengracht 463 bg Open to the public until Sunday from 12:00-18:00

Press presentation Spring Summer 2011

19:30

Film&Fashion: four famous fashion documentaries in Het Ketelhuis with an introduction by a fashion professional.

Today: Valentino - The Last Emperor by Matt Tyrnauer Bioscoop Het Ketelhuis Pazzanistraat 4 Public €9

21:30

AMFI Fashion Films at Het Ketelhuis

Première Student Fashion Films Bioscoop Het Ketelhuis Pazzanistraat 4 Public €5


Wednesday 26/1

Thursday 27/1

Friday 28/1

Saturday 29/1

10:30

10:00-17:00

10:00

10:30

Pand 020, Haarlemmerweg 10A Open to the public

Salon Claes Iversen Herengracht 176, Open to the Public Also on 28 and 29 January

Business Programme Fashion Pavillion By invitation only

Pand 020 Haarlemmerweg 10A Open to the public

Trend-reading by Milou Ket

16:00-19:00

Sample Sale, up to 50% off

'Whole' 2011 Brown Clothes Collection

11:00

13:00

11:00

Pand 020, Haarlemmerweg 10A Open to the public

Fashion Week LAB. Machinegebouw, by invitation only

Brown Clothes Studio-Boutique Hazenstraat 28, Open to the public

Trend-reading by Milou Ket

14:30

Trend-reading by Milou Ket Pand 020, Haarlemmerweg 10A Open to the public

17:00

AMFI Fashion Films at Het Ketelhuis Bioscoop Het Ketelhuis Pazzanistraat 4 Public €5

18:00

Roparosa

Fashion Week LAB. Machinegebouw, by invitation only

13:00

ABN AMRO presents JANTAMINIAU – HAUTE COUTURE Catwalk Zuiveringshal West By invitation only

16:30

14:00

Felix Meritis Keizersgracht 324 By invitation only

Salon, Zuiveringshal West, by invitation only

Roya Hesam

20:00

17:00

14:00

Bioscoop Het Ketelhuis Pazzanistraat 4 Public €5

ZEM by SAMIRA ALGOE

Fashion Week LAB. Machinegebouw, by invitation only

INDIVIDUALS by AMFI

Catwalk Zuiveringshal West, by invitation only

AMFI Fashion Films at Het Ketelhuis

Bioscoop Het Ketelhuis Pazzanistraat 4, public €5

17:00

LM Lhana Marlet

Fashion Week LAB. Machinegebouw, by invitation only

17:00

Marije de Haan

Fashion Week LAB. Machinegebouw, by invitation only

Marie Clarie presents SIS by Spijkers en Spijkers Catwalk, Zuiveringshal West By invitation only

GOMES ESSER DESIGN

19:00

20:00

Presentation, Westergoud By invitation only

Fashion Week LAB. Machinegebouw, by invitation only

Musa Shah

Fashion Week LAB. Machinegebouw, by invitation only

21:00

Grazia presents Bas Kosters Catwalk, Zuiveringshal West By invitation only

21:30-23:30 Culture Clash

Toko MC, Polonceaukade 5, Open to the public

Show by Sage & Ivy

Fashion Week LAB. Machinegebouw, by invitation only

18:00

Thursday 27/1

.MARLOESBLAAS.

Grand Finale: The Green Fashion Competition

16:30

21:00

Business Programme Machinegebouw By invitation only

Salon Zuiveringshal West By invitation only

18:30

Catwalk, Zuiveringshal West By invitation only

Pitch meeting and Fashion Fasterclass Lichting 2010

15:00

15:00

ABN AMRO presents jantaminiau – Demi Couture

10:00

Bravoure

ABN AMRO Opening soireeOfficial Opening AIFW Zuiveringshal West, By invitation only

Labelling Dutchness

Hallucination by Steven Klein

19:00-19:30

Creme Fresh show - collections by Lotte van Keulen, Ellis Biemans and Elise Kim

AMFI Fashion Films at Het Ketelhuis

Trend-reading by Milou Ket

12:30

Trend-reading by Milou Ket Pand 020 Haarlemmerweg 10A Open to the public

13:00-18:00 LBD:AMS

Location will be announced at www.wearepi.org Open to the public

14:30

Trend-reading by Milou Ket Pand 020 Haarlemmerweg 10A Open to the public

17:30-20:00

Ready to fish_ - Escapism

MC Theater Polonceaukade 5 Open to the public, limited access

Maybelline NY presents Tony Cohen

Catwalk Zuiveringshal West By invitation only

20:00

19:30

Film&Fashion

Today: The September Issue Bioscoop Het Ketelhuis Pazzanistraat 4 Public €9

20:00

RECONSTRUCT by MLY

Piet Hein Eek Halve Maanstraat 30, Eindhoven Public €69 - amanda@mly.nl

21:00

ABN AMRO presents MC by Monique Collignon Catwalk Zuiveringshal West By invitation only

12:00-19:00

10-year Open Shop super sample sale

Open Shop Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal Open to the public

15:00

Elsien Gringhuis Salon Zuiveringshal West By invitation only

17:00

Hunkemöller

Catwalk Zuiveringshal West By invitation only

20:00

Club BRILLANT presents L’Agence A/W 2011 + worldwide launch of the very first L'Agence sunglasses collection by Sama Eyewear Catwalk Zuiveringshal West By invitation only

18:00

18:00

ABN AMRO presents Addy van den Krommenacker

Sunday 30/1

Catwalk Zuiveringshal West By invitation only

Volvo Cars presents Velour Catwalk Zuiveringshal West By invitation only

19:00

Film & Fashion

Filmtheater Kriterion Roetersstraat 170 Open to the public

21:00

SuperTrash

Catwalk + Party till 02:00 Gashouder By invitation only

23:00-04:00 BOWERY.

Jimmy Woo Korte Leidsedwarsstraat 18 Open to the public €12

23:00-05:00 Valtifashion

Westerliefde Klonneplein 4-6 Open to the public €22 – www.valtifest.nl

Trouw Amsterdam/De Verdieping Wibautstraat 127, Open to the Public

19:30

Film&Fashion

Today: Lagerfeld Confidential Bioscoop Het Ketelhuis Pazzanistraat 4, public €9

Always the latest news during Amsterdam Fashion Week? Check Amsterdamfashionweek.com or Styletoday.nl frontrow | winter 2011 |

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Designer Profile

Now starring From Wednesday 26 until Sunday 30 January 2011 the official catwalk programme of the Amsterdam International Fashion Week will be filled by the following starting designers, established professionals and prominent labels. interview ellen litz

42 | frontrow | winter 2011


photography anja van wijgerden

The Official AIFW Schedule / AW 11/12 / Wednesday 26 January

ABN AMRO Opening soiree ABN AMRO presents jantaminiau Demi-Couture

ABN AMRO Opening soiree ABN AMRO presents JANTAMINIAU – HAUTE COUTURE

Describe your brand in a few words. Jantaminiau makes women feel beautiful. Elegance, passion, luxury. Who's your ultimate style icon? Keira Knightley, Michelle Williams, Natalie Portman. What’s your motto? Be who you are wherever you are. What are you saying with your clothing? Combine and transform with elegance. Functional or a piece of art? Functional. Amsterdam International Fashion Week? A new day has come. Wishing everybody at AIFW the best of luck with their new opportunities.

Describe your brand in a few words. Love, passion, craftsmanship, beauty, conceptual, undertone. Who's your ultimate style icon? Eron O’Connor, Sylvia van der Klooster. What’s your motto? Live and love passionately. Is there a story you want to tell with your clothing? I want to inspire, excite and give women the chance to dream away and fall in love. Functional or a piece of art? Piece of art. Who would you love to dress? All women with style and grace.

Wednesday 26 January Time: 18:30 catwalk Zuiveringshal West

Wednesday 26 January Time: 21:00 catwalk Zuiveringshal West

AA_black-whiteC.eps ABN AMRO black-white for coated paper Width shield: 20 mm Overlap: 0,05 mm

AA_black-whiteC.eps ABN AMRO black-white for coated paper Width shield: 20 mm Overlap: 0,05 mm

frontrow | winter 2011 |

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photography marijn smulders

The Official AIFW Schedule / AW 11/12 / Thursday 27 January

Roparosa

Thursday 27 January Time: 11:00 Fashion Week LAB. Machinegebouw

What are you saying with your new collection? My new collection is called Come As You Are. It’s about being true to yourself and going for whatever makes you feel good. I chose to have all lines in the clothes originate from the middle of the body, which gives a shining star shape, expressing how you shine when you feel great. Education or self-taught? In 2006 I graduated as a video artist at the Utrecht School of Arts, then I committed to fashion and founded my label ROPAROSA. I learnt sewing with a designer who makes motorcycle gear. What's your fuel while designing? Working with my hands keeps me grounded. Which talent would you most like to have? To be able to dance at a professional level. Favourite colour? Albert Heijn blue.

44 | frontrow | winter 2011

Bravoure

Thursday 27 January Time: 11:00 Fashion Week LAB. Machinegebouw

What are you saying with your new collection? We collect the materials that form our first thoughts for a collection. We are now working towards an on-stage collection: feathers, beads, wings and native structures. Who is the muse for your new collection? Lots of stage performers are fascinating. On our own national turf we’d like to name Wende Snijders, a beautiful woman who inspires us with her power, mysterious personality and organic theatrical movements. What is your idea of perfect happiness? The moment that everything comes together. For example, a party where you see your best friend dancing with your mother. What is your current state of mind? “All of life is a stage.” Amsterdam International Fashion Week? A beautiful way to put our collection in the spotlight.

The Green Fashion Competition

Thursday 27 January Time: 13:00 salon Zuiveringshal West Your brand in a few words. True, Triggering, Inspiring, Fashion and Future Who's your ultimate style icon? Lonneke Engel of course. She's the epitome of green fashion. What’s your motto? Be the change that you want to see in the world. Is there a story you want to tell with your clothing? That real fashion – the kind that makes your heart skip a beat – and sustainability can go hand in hand. Functional or a piece of art? Definitely a piece of art. If every item you wear is a piece of art, you really treasure your clothes. What do you think of the Amsterdam International Fashion Week? I think AIFW is the perfect platform for the distinctiveness of Dutch fashion design.


The Official AIFW Schedule / AW 11/12 / Thursday 27 January

Roya Hesam

ZEM by SAMIRA ALGOE

INDIVIDUALS by AMFI

What are you saying with your new collection? I want to show multiple aspects of a culture and personality with my clothing. I want to persuade women to dress in a way that offers them more than just being beautiful. The collection is inspired by Polynesian culture but it’s still very Western. It’s feminine and soft, but also tough and businesslike. Best part of the job? Being creative with unlimited imagination. Which cartoon character would you like to dress? Betty Boop. Because of her sex appeal, cutesy voice and ditzy charm. What music do you listen to when you design? Secret Agent from SomaFM. Great sounds. What's your fuel while designing? Love. What is your current state of mind? Release.

The moment you first knew you wanted to be a designer. My first creation was supposed to be a men’s shirt. I made it for my brother, then five. There were no sleeves, no collar but my brother loved it. The feeling I got when I saw my brother so happy with something I made was priceless. Which cartoon character would you like to dress? Tintin. He travelled the world and always adapted his wardrobe to the country he was in. As a kid I really got an understanding of different cultures and costumes. What music do you listen to when you design? Melodramatic, sad music. About love, death, losing everything. Repeatedly. What is your most treasured possession? My sewing machine. I bought it when I was 15. That machine has handled a lot of blood, sweat and tears.

What’s your motto? INDIVIDUALS is a changing collective of creative minds. By combining talents we inspire and tell a story. Each generation adds its own unique chapter to the continuing fashion story that is INDIVIDUALS. Who's your ultimate style icon? We are. A collective of young creatives, who have their own vision, taste, style and talent. Is there a story you want to tell with your clothing? This collection, La Petite Mort, is all about taking a leap of faith. The moment when morals collapse and barriers fade. As adrenaline kicks in, everything turns black. Sparks rush trough your veins and the only light is the electricity you emit. Still the question remains: is the jump worth the fall? La Petite Mort is INDIVIDUALS’ tenth collection. A milestone in the history of the brand.

Thursday 27 January Time: 14:00 Fashion Week LAB. Machinegebouw

Thursday 27 January Time: 15:00 Catwalk Zuiveringshal West

drawing samira algoe

photography fiona makkink

Thursday 27 January Time: 14:00 Fashion Week LAB. Machinegebouw

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The Official AIFW Schedule / AW 11/12 / Thursday 27 January

Marije de Haan

Thursday 27 January Time: 17:00 Fashion Week LAB. Machinegebouw

The moment you first knew you wanted to be a designer. When I was seven, without reason, I just said I would. What are you saying with your new collection? A surrealistic view of death and crime, and the anonymity and quietness that come with it. Best part of the job? Being able to translate my own thoughts into something visible. What's your fuel while designing? My own emotions, movies and tea. What’s your most treasured possession? The cuddly, stuffed caterpillar my father gave me when I was little. What would you be if you weren’t a fashion designer? An historian. Amsterdam International Fashion Week? A wonderful platform for fashion and design, especially in a small country like this. 46 | frontrow | winter 2011

LM by Lhana Marlet

Thursday 27 January Time: 17:00 Fashion Week LAB. Machinegebouw

What are you saying with your new collection? I just want women to enjoy wearing my collection. It’s fashion. Education or self-taught? After some courses at C.S.M. I landed an internship at Alexander McQueen. I’ve just gone on since then learning on the job. Which fashionable figure do you most identify with? I am quite rock-and-roll, sometimes scruffy, sometimes chic, a bit like Marianne Faithfull. But sometimes like Grace Kelly. What is your most treasured possession? A small 18th-century gold bracelet left by my grandmother. Attached to it is a little gold ball in which you can save your most treasured wish. Still don’t know what that is. Amsterdam International Fashion Week? Since it started it’s definitely growing into the international market.

Marie Claire presents SIS by Spijkers en Spijkers Thursday 27 January Time: 18:00 catwalk Zuiveringshal West

What are you saying with your new collection? That clothing empowers; if you wear something nice and look good, you feel better and stronger. Who is the muse for your new collection? The first aviators and drivers. The muse for this collection is Amelia Earhart, the first female aviator to cross the Atlantic Ocean. She followed her heart, she didn’t let anyone talk her out of her ideas. That’s an important message. Best part of the job? Gathering ideas for a new collection Which fashionable figure do you most identify with? Elsa Schiaparelli and Madeleine Vionnet Favourite colour? Every season has a different favourite. This season it’s dream blue, a true blue. What would you be if you weren’t a fashion designer? An artist or a plastic surgeon.


The Official AIFW Schedule / AW 11/12 / Thursday 27 January

Gomes Esser Design

Musa Shah

Grazia presents Bas Kosters

What are you saying with your new collection? This concept is about the subconscious, the secret of the human brain. An additional emphasis is placed on the use of different combinations of materials, craftsmanship and detail. Who is the muse for your new collection? For this collection we were inspired by the movie: The Book of Eli. We love the leading lady Solara. She’s strong, independent and attractive. Best part of the job? Being an innovator. The excitement when your collection is on the catwalk. What talent would you most like to have? We would like to have the talent to create magic. Favourite colour? Our favourite colours are black and metallic. What would you be if you weren’t a fashion designer? We would be psychologists.

The moment you first knew you wanted to be a designer. Before I was born. What are you saying with your new collection? Fashion for young men is alive! Education or self-taught? A combination of both. Best part of the job? Choosing materials and making something beautiful out of them. Which cartoon character would you like to dress? Johny Bravo. What music do you listen to when you design? Instrumental (piano). What's your fuel while designing? Hot chocolate with cream. Which fashionable figure do you most identify with? Yves Saint Laurent. What is your most treasured possession? My keen eye. Amsterdam International Fashion Week? It’s my new best friend!

The moment you first knew you wanted to be a designer. I was torn between illustration and fashion, but decided that fashion should be the thing to focus on. What are you saying with your new collection? The main theme for this collection is mutation. Education or self-taught? Education, I studied for eight years and loved it. What music do you listen to when you design? The music I play as a dj, disco, italo, and dance music, or jazz on internet radio. What is your most treasured possession? My family and friends, and my jewellery. Favourite colour? Shocking pink Amsterdam International Fashion Week? It is increasingly becoming a platform for talent, as it should be, giving creativity a chance and supporting designers is the way forward.

Thursday 27 January Time: 20:00 Fashion Week LAB. Machinegebouw

Thursday 27 January Time: 21:00 catwalk Zuiveringshal West

photography team wayta, wayta patmo

Thursday 27 January Time: 20:00 Fashion Week LAB. Machinegebouw

frontrow | winter 2011 |

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photography tim van der most

The Official AIFW Schedule / AW 11/12 / Friday 28 January

.MARLOESBLAAS.

Friday 28 January Time: 15:00 salon Zuiveringshal West

The moment you first knew you wanted to be a designer. During my Graphic Design studies I found my real passion was for fashion design. What are you saying with your new collection? This year I have looked back at large families in the early 50s. When it’s hard to feed your children, how do you clothe them? The aftermath of war is a big part of my new collection. Education or self-taught? I love to think I’m self-taught, but for most people, including me, that’s impossible. What is your idea of perfect happiness? Although it’s nice to have them, beautiful things are not the key to happiness. I hope I have the good fortune to create a big family around me. That would make me perfectly happy. Favourite colour? Army green.

ABN AMRO presents Addy van den Krommenacker

ABN AMRO presents MC by Monique Collignon

The moment you first knew you wanted to be a designer. Drawing princesses at the kitchen table when I was five. What are you saying with your new collection? My new collection has my signature of femininity of course, but this time I was looking for a stronger and sexier image. Who is the muse of your new collection? This time I designed without a muse. Which fashionable figure do you most identify with? Marc Jacobs. Which talent would you most like to have? I am happy as I am. Favourite colour? Gold. What would you be if you weren’t a fashion designer? A singer. Amsterdam International Fashion Week? A great opportunity to showcase Dutch fashion.

What are you saying with your new collection? That all women can be radiant, beautiful and live and love their lives to the fullest. Which cartoon character would you like to dress? Jessica Rabbit. What did you do last night? Rode and cared for my horse High Spirit. What's your fuel while designing? Dextro Energy. What talent would you most like to have? I’m blessed with my own talent. What is your most treasured possession? I don’t know if I can call it a possession: my horse High Spirit. Favourite colour? Non-colour: Black Amsterdam International Fashion Week? A great initiative and platform for all designers.

Friday 28 January Time: 18:00 catwalk Zuiveringshal West

AA_black-whiteC.eps ABN AMRO black-white for coated paper

48 | frontrow | winter 2011

Width shield: 20 mm Overlap: 0,05 mm

Friday 28 January Time: 21:00 catwalk Zuiveringshal West

AA_black-whiteC.eps ABN AMRO black-white for coated paper Width shield: 20 mm Overlap: 0,05 mm


The Official AIFW Schedule / AW 11/12 / Saturday 29 January

Maybelline presents Tony Cohen

Volvo Cars presents Velour

SuperTrash

The moment you first knew you wanted to be a designer. Sitting on a beach in Ibiza in 2000, drawing a full collection. What are you saying with your new collection? Quality over quantity. Who is the muse for your new collection? Lady Independence. What's your fuel while designing? Working with high quality fabrics and seeing different disciplines all coming together. Which fashionable figure do you most identify with? I only identify with myself. What is your current state of mind? Chaos, as everything is changing. Amsterdam International Fashion Week? I have not been there yet. What I love about the Amsterdam International Fashion Week is that the location is only five minutes away from where I was born.

Describe your brand in a few words. Authentic, effortless and value-driven. What’s your motto? People who are effortlessly stylish, who don’t try too hard. Authentic style is intrinsic. Is there a story you want to tell with your clothing? It started back in 1997 when Per Andersson rummaged through his grandmother's old ready-to-wear shop, which closed in the mid-eighties after 50 years in business. He opened Nostalgi, a shop that sold the dead stock clothes together with re-makes, art and design, and became a forum for the Göteborg independent scene. The first Velour collection was launched in 2005. Amsterdam International Fashion Week? A great place where brands, press, stylists, retailers, agents and socialites from the fashion industry can meet in a creative environment.

Describe your brand in a few words. International, dynamic, luxuries, independent and sexy. Who's your ultimate style icon? Jackie Kennedy. She mixed business with fashion and will always be in fashion. What’s your motto? Effortlessly over the top. Is there a story you want to tell with your clothing? Everything in life is so reachable, you just have to figure out how to get there. With SuperTrash we give you all the glitz and the glam, and it’s so easy. Make a choice: Functional or a piece of art? Functional. Who would you love to dress? Kate Moss. Amsterdam International Fashion Week? A great platform for putting Amsterdam on the map as an international fashion city.

Saturday 29 January Time: 18:00 catwalk Zuiveringshal West

Saturday 29 January Time: 20:00 catwalk Zuiveringshal West

Saturday 29 January Time: 21:00 catwalk Gashouder

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Elsien Gringhuis

Sunday 30 January Time: 15:00 salon Zuiveringshal West

What are you saying with your new collection? The Dutch landscape inspired me with it’s breadth, clear shapes and lines, green grass and blue sky. It makes me think of freedom and endless possibilities. Best part of the job? The creative part. What did you do last night? Read Joe Speedboot and drank white port, while thinking about my to-do list. What’s your idea of perfect happiness? Loving what you’re doing. Which fashionable figure do you most identify with? No one really. I watch people; the way they look and behave fascinates me endlessly. What is your current state of mind? Tired and excited. What is your most treasured possession? My mother made me an embroidered pin-cushion when I was born. It reminds me of love, quality and craftsmanship. I use it every day. 50 || frontrow 50 frontrow || winter winter 2011

photography nai le gitan

photography mark groeneveld

The Official AIFW Schedule / AW 11/12 / Sunday 30 January

Hunkemöller

Sunday 30 January Time: 17:00 Catwalk Zuiveringshal West

Describe your brand in a few words. Passionate, Inspiring, Fun, Sexy and In Touch Who's your ultimate style icon? This collection’s a modern interpretation of Marlene Dietrich and Josephine Baker. What’s your motto? It’s a women’s world and we love it! Is there a story you want to tell with your clothing? Eclectic, Sensual and Exotic. We are inspired by Hollywood stars of the 40s. We tell the story of a woman who’s confident, sexy and glamorous. Make a choice: Functional or a piece of art? Hunkemöller is an extension of her personality, and always fashionable. Amsterdam International Fashion Week? It is the ultimate place to show our star products, a way to excite and surprise the press and reward our loyal customers.

Club BRILLANT presents L’Agence

Sunday 30th of January Time: 20:00 catwalk Zuiveringshal West Describe your brand in a few words. Timeless with a modern twist. What is the origin of your brand? Born in Los Angeles, inspired by Paris What was your commercial breakthrough? Ron Herman’s support What is your motto? Effortless dressing Amsterdam International Fashion Week? A great opportunity for designers to put on a show with world class models and quality production before all the other fashion weeks start, and everyone is being pulled in to different directions. I am very excited to have the support of AIFW for our first show and to launch the eyewear collection with Sama Eyewear.


AIFW Green

The Green Fashion Competition The business plans of more than 180 enrolments, each presenting two designs, were closely evaluated by a jury of experts. They selected eight finalists. The grand finale of The Green Fashion Competition will happen at AIFW on Thursday 27 January. A first and second prize of €25,000 and €15,000 will be awarded to the fashion entrepreneurs who can convincingly combine catwalk-worthy fashion with efforts aimed at sustaining our world’s biodiversity. Eight proud finalists adoring AIFW 1. “Both new and established labels being offered a professional platform is such a grand opportunity for young designers to develop and present themselves to a discerning audience. 2. The presentation of my first collection at AIFW three years ago really caught the media’s attention. Continuing positive coverage since then has brought new buyers and created a steady fan base. 3. Just think of all the journalists who’ll be there. It’s a great platform for new designers to catch the attention. 4. AIFW is a beacon of light in fashion in the world. Which other reputable fashion organization has ever made the point that for fashion to continue fabulousness and biodiversity must go hand and hand? 5. By challenging designers to explore new ways of creating fashion, AIFW is carving out its own niche in the international fashion scene. We're proud to be given the chance to introduce our sneakers to the fashion industry. 6. Viral is a fresh new menswear label, and we feel that AIFW will be a great start for us, the first ever showing of our supergreen menswear label. 7. A great platform for showing our designs in motion, with the right styling and music. We really want you to know just what our brand means. 8. AIFW is a great opportunity to present our ideas for the future. We want to ensure that there are many ways to protect and support biodiversity.”1

1. Elsien Gringhuis

2. NON by Kim

3. Winde Rienstra

4. Bright Young Things

5. OAT Shoes

6. TEAM VIRAL

7. Farrow & Tan

8. Gomes Esser Design

The Green Fashion Competition is an initiative of Amsterdam International Fashion Week and the Dutch Ministry of Economic Affairs, Agriculture and Innovation to mark the International Year of Biodiversity. frontrow | winter 2011 |

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Backstage SS 11

Oh,you PRETTY THINGS photography peter stigter

SS 11 / Iris van Herpen

52 | frontrow | winter 2011


My heart

Please send me your last pair of shoes, worn out with dancing, as you mentioned in your letter, so that I might have someting to press against my heart. - Johann Wolfgang von Goethe 1749-1832

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SS 11 / Hair Heroes

54 | frontrow | winter 2011


Forgive Fashion dies very young, so we must forgive it everything. - Jean Cocteau 1889-1963

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SS 11 / jantaminiau

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Ladylove

...I'm Weaving a dress for my lady Out of the fabric of dreams; Fashioned of twilight, Sewn with the shy light Of start and the moon's fragile beams; Clasped with a girdle of dawning, Rainbows to cover the seams, Brightened with kisses, Ladylove, this is Your gown for my fabric of dreams! - B.G. DeSylva / Ira Gershwin 1895-1950 1896-1983

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FRONTROW EVERY WEEK with Grazia

Grazia takes you front row and backstage in the wonderful world of fashion, from Amsterdam to Paris, every week. Subscribe today and never miss out on an issue. Get it delivered to your door!

15X GRAZIA

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Go to grazia.nl/frontrow or call 088-5500132 THIS OFFER IS VALID FROM JANUARY 1ST TO MARCH 31ST 2011 AND ONLY IF YOU HAD NO PRIOR SUBSCRIPTION TO GRAZIA IN THE PAST HALF YEAR. THIS SUBSCRIPTION WILL AUTOMATICALLY STOP AFTER 15 WEEKS. THE PRICE OF THIS OFFER IS €25. FOR QUESTIONS CONCERNING YOUR SUBSCRIPTION CONTACT OUR CUSTOMER SERVICE. MORE INFORMATION ON THIS SUBJECT: WWW.SANOMA-UITGEVERS.NL/KLANTENSERVICE


Expert Meeting

By Invitation Only

Labelling Dutchness

Photo Exhibition Steven Klein

The research project Dutch Fashion Identity in a Globalized World explores whether there is something that can be called Dutch fashion or style of dress? And, if so, what is typically Dutch about Dutch fashion? What does national identity have to do with it? photography peter stigter

Your Hallucination is Now Complete, a new video piece by Steven Klein, offers a panorama of the various fashion series created by the photographer between 2001 and 2010, through which he has painted a portrait of decadence and decay in America. photography steven klein

From the results of the research we aim to comprehend and contribute to cultural innovation of Dutch fashion at an international level.

The photographer addresses the breakdown of American society with elaborately staged images in which colour and light are more than merely tools of easy seduction. His dark, baroque allegories unfold page by page, embodied by a model who in Klein's work does not simply pose, but acts.

During the workshop at AIFW we hope to spark off a dialogue between industry and academe to disseminate our findings. The meeting is meant to inspire critical comment and feedback from all participants, thus introducing new perspectives on the topic. The expert meeting has been organized in collaboration with MODINT. The larger project is funded by NWO and co-sponsored by Mr. Koetsier fund, OOC-fund, Premsela, ArtEZ Institute of the Arts, Saxion Universities, the University of Amsterdam and Radboud University Nijmegen.

Steven Klein studied painting at the Rhode Island School of Design before beginning his career as a photographer in Paris. His images appear works regularly in American Vogue, Vogue Italia and W, and he has worked on numerous advertising campaigns, notably for Alexander McQueen, Calvin Klein and Dolce & Gabbana. The exhibition is organized by Foam.

Friday 28 January, 10:00 Fashion Pavillion Westergasfabriek. By invitation only

Your Hallucination is Now Complete – Steven Klein Presentation, Westergoud. Open to the public. Free entry Friday, Saturday and Sunday at various times between 10:00 and 18:00. Check www.foam.nl for the starting times frontrow | winter 2011 |

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Fashion Portrait

interview ellen litz photography rvda

60 | frontrow | winter 2011

SS 05 postzak (postbag)

When I started designing this collection I had no idea how well known it would become, particularly as reactions up till then had been mixed. Looking back at it, it’s great to see this collection again and to know that the Postzak jacket has proven to be timeless.

2005

Miles of tulle, fine embroidery and lace, impossibly beautiful shoes – this must be what dreams are made of. Jan Taminiau is the name of the dreamer, and in the decade since he started showing his creations he has become fashion aristocracy.

2005

The Rise and Rise of Jan Taminiau

AW 05 empire

For me, this collection was a natural continuation of the Postzak collection. It’s about wrapping and unwrapping. The collection was inspired by my grandmother’s antiques shop; I just loved the old letters she left lying there, wrapped perfectly in beautiful ribbons.


Around the time I was designing this collection, something happened with me personally. I started to prosper, to bloom. Like a butterfly emerging from a cocoon. That’s why you see so many soft, sweet colours.

AW 06 1,2,3,4

I did this collection together with artist Victor de Bie and stylist Roel Schagen. Three people working on one collection turned out to be an experience I don’t want to repeat. It was bruising, not only for me, but for the press. I do love the way model Jessica looks though.

SS 07 radical chic

What I remember most about this period is that everything fell into place. The show itself was magic: Sylvia van der Klooster, my muse, my inspiration, looked amazing, the venue where we showed looked beautiful. Even the rain pouring in through the roof was perfect. This was when I felt: I’m ready for Paris now.

2007

2007

2006

2006 SS 06 equilibre

AW 07 follies

This collection is all about weaving, something I had learned and done a lot of at the academy. It’s a wink to those functionless buildings like the decorative teahouses you see so often in the English countryside. It’s all about decorative beauty.

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Chic Fashion Portrait

Past

I’ve been designing for more than ten years, and sure I’ve changed. For one thing, I’ve grown older, but the essence of what I do is still the same: making beautiful clothing for all sorts of people. My team and I have worked extremely hard, but we believe in letting things run their course. At the risk of sounding corny, I did everything my way, when I was ready, and not because someone was offering me lots of money. I’m proud yet humbled that people who love my designs take the time to come and see me and buy my clothing. I’ll never take that for granted. So far lots of amazing things have come my way; starting my own company in 2004 and having the opportunity to work with incredible people. One of my finest memories to date is my first show in Paris; a childhood fantasy that was every bit as beautiful in real life as it was in my dreams.

Present

I’m honoured to be showing in Amsterdam again, at the Amsterdam International Fashion Week. I’ll be showing my demi-couture collection as well as my haute couture collection, which I showed in Paris not too long ago. The demi-couture has my full focus right now, because it’s new and exciting. It will be a 100-percent Jan Taminiau collection, but it’s more wearable, more functional. Not like haute couture, which is more than anything a dream captured in fabrics. Spare time? Sleeping in? I vaguely remember what that was. But that’s okay. All my life I’ve been out of touch with time, but I have to admit, these last couple of months have been crazy. My team and I have squeezed two years’ work into six months, but we’re not complaining. It’s what we love to do and, hey, it keeps me out of trouble!

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SS 08 evolution

Future

I once said that I would love to create a ready-made clothing line, and I still would, but it’s not something I see happening in the next year. I do see it as an opportunity, because I find ready-made clothing fascinating. I’d love to grow as a person and as a designer and I love all the elements of fashion. That’s why within the next few years I’d love to develop a lingerie line. Lingerie is an essential part of a woman’s wardrobe and it can work magic. I’ve designed lingerie in the past, as part of my haute couture dresses, so it will not be a totally new venture, but it will certainly be exciting. Then there’s the dream of designing a men’s collection. And now that we are on the subject of dreams: I do see myself venturing into interior design. Designing furniture, developing my own line of wallpaper. As a child I wanted to be on the Oprah Winfrey Show. It seemed so fascinating, sitting there with Oprah, talking fashion in an intimate setting, but with millions watching. Who knows if that dream will ever come true? If not, second best, having one of my dresses worn at the Oscars would be something I would love to do. 1


AW 08 passe partout

SS 10 duality

Jan AW 10 reflections

Magic

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Frontrow Business Programme

How to survive in fashion How do I write a thorough business plan? How can I make sure my collection can be bought in stores? How do I protect my brand? Many young designers are asking themselves these questions as soon as they step out of the Fashion Academy. text annemarie van looij photography peter stigter

M

anolo Marquez heads ABN AMRO’s Fashion Desk. ‘The Fashion Desk can attend to both beginning and established designers in their entrepreneurship. The ABN AMRO bank has a long association with the Dutch textile industry and we have gained a great deal of expertise and experience. That history, along with our experience of the Fashion Fasterclass workshop, led to the establishment of the Fashion Desk. Not only wholesale and retail, but also upcoming fashion talents can pose their questions about the often complex commercial aspect of their trade.’ Marquez noticed that a lot of designers are afraid to ask a bank for help. ‘As soon as they are faced with a financial man in a grey business suit, they just shut down. At ABN AMRO’s Fashion Desk we work exclusively with people who know the fashion world and its rapid developments. Even though most of us do wear grey suits.’ ABN AMRO has sponsored Amsterdam International Fashion Week for five years and now for the second year in a row the bank is main sponsor. In that period the ABN AMRO has attended to many people in the fashion industry. Designers Mattijs van Bergen, Bas Kosters, Mada van Gaans and Ilja Visser are among former participants of the Fashion Fasterclassworkshop whose stories inspired the bank to do more than just the Fashion Fasterclass. Marquez: ‘Some designers only sleep two hours a night in the week they have to show at Fashion Week. There is so very much they have to think about. People often forget how many hours are spent making a fashion collection for the show. Almost everything is made by

64 | frontrow | winter 2011

Mada van Gaans

‘Lack of time is your worst enemy in this profession. What I remember from when I started is that there are so many things you have to think through. What with finishing the collection, organising my show and finding a good salesperson, I had little time to dive into the business side of things. That’s why I think it’s good that there is a Fashion Desk. In the old days you had to go to different people, now you can find all the information at one place. I think it’ll save you lots of precious time.’

hand and some of the pieces represent hundreds of hours of work. Faced with such hectic times designers can’t be bothered with the dull financial or juridical aspects. But after a show business can suddenly accelerate; orders are placed, production has to be ramped up, they need to make more sample collections and they need money.’ Marquez noticed that a lot of (especially just beginning) designers don't know how to start their own venture. With a thorough business plan they can borrow seed capital from a bank. ‘The disappointment of being refused a bank loan is, of course, hard,’ says Marquez. ‘That’s why we want to offer help and advice from the start, including writing a business plan. Some of the plans I have read don’t include a personal salary. Also you need an investment program. If you get a big order, you can’t produce that on just one sewing machine. And you don’t have the time to finish the collection on your own, so you need employees. And what do you do in case of financial mishap? A lot of young entrepreneurs don’t think specifically about such things.’ Besides guidance the Fashion Desk also offers help to designers from the bank’s business network. Marquez: ‘Of course we are interested in the statistics, but we are also curious as to the person behind the designer or brand. How can we get to know her or him better so that we can offer our best service? We have a wide range of contacts who can provide assistance to our clients, the designers. I see a lot of talent. Not only during Fashion Week, but also at the fashion academies. I would like to help those people fulfil their dreams and ambitions. Why? Because I believe in creativity and fashion.’ More information on ABN AMRO Fashion Desk: 020 343 8068. 1


Onweerstaanbare aantrekkingskracht. Karolina Kurkova en de nieuwe CLS. IJzersterke combinatie van haute couture en haute voiture. Lees meer hierover op mercedes-benz.nl/fashion

Gem. verbruik: 5,1 – 9,9 l/100 km, 19,6 – 10,1 km/l. CO2-uitstoot: 134 – 232 g/km.


The Scene

‘Look at you!’ You look great. Your dress, b e a u t i f u l. Where did you you get it. And look at your shoes. Must be going. Bye darling, talk to you soon. by jamie valerie li photography peter stigter

sabrina meijer

dj wannebastar

ans markus

jolanda van den broek

saba badas-zadeh

hanna verboom

kieu vuong

michou basu

kim querfurth

66 | frontrow | winter 2011


SS 11 / Iris van Herpen

Red lips harriet calo karin sweerink margreet olsthoorn

It’s a fact: red lips create a sophisticated statement. Meet the Dita von Teeses of Holland. frontrow frontrow || winter winter 2011 || 67 67


The Scene

Birds of Paradise

aynouk tan

From balloon hats to smiley-face accessories, you do not walk past these trendy individuals without noticing. stacey rookhuizen ajo van vulpen

jan willem loor

ronald kolk

mariana verkerk maurice suyderhoud

victoria koblenko

janice

morris

milou van rossum

bastiaan van schaik

ruud van der peijl

bas kosters

jean-paul paula

Blondies Normal blonde, yellow blonde or grey blonde: no, none of these stunning blondes are secretly brunettes. What were you thinking?

jodie ball yfke sturm jetteke van lexmond bridget maasland

tanja jess alex jaspers

judith osborn jildou van der bijl

lone van roosendaal

liesbeth in 't hout

jamie valerie

linda botter

frans ankone

caroline fuchs

hilmar mulder

jamie valerie li claudia straatmans

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The Scene

Fashion Angels Besides performing skills, these famous Dutch singers, models, designers, stylists, actors have one thing in common; they are every last one of them devoted to fashion.

olcay gulsen jos raak

miryanna van reeden

kim pieters

spijkers en spijkers giovanni

patricia van der vliet

olcay gulsen edgar davids

maik de boer perre van den brink

kay nambiar

anna drijver

kim feenstra

stella weening

dennis weening ovo drenth

? rossana lima kluivert

tjitske reidinga

? beertje van beers

?

sandera mattie

thijs willekes

giovanca chazia mourali

leco van zadelhoff

robert schoemacher

Bloggers Marc Jacobs loves bloggers, and so do we. Bloggonistas, up-to-date online writers/reporters are gradually taking over the front row. monique van loon

jean-paul paula

elisah jacobs

maartje van denderen

tess van daelen

eveline kuin elise van wonderen yara michels jamie valerie li

evelien tomaszewski

leroy aznam

stacey currie styletoday-team

sabrina meijer

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Extra Extra

Downtown’s Best Fashion Week DOWNTOWN clearly proofs that Fashion Week is not only for the frontrow insiders. Many locations in and around Amsterdam are open for everyone interested in fashion. There is the opening event at INDIVIDUALS, the successful Designers Market at Maison de Bonneterie, Styletoday is hosting a party, lots of exhibitions and much, much more. You can find the complete programme online. These pages offer a selection of events you absolutely have to visit.

Designer Market

INDIVIDUALS by AMFI

Official DOWNTOWN Opening 10 x 10 by INDIVIDUALS BY AMFI

Designers Market Maison de Bonneterie

Spui 23 Opening: Friday 21 January 17:00 – 20.00 Exhibition: 22 – 30 January, 12:00 – 18:00

Rokin 140-142 Opening: Friday 21 January 19.30 – 21.00

During Amsterdam International Fashion Week, INDIVIDUALS presents the installation 10x10, made up of ten iconic elements that characterize the fashion label, inspired by ten generations of young creatives from INDIVIDUALS who made the brand what it is today. The installation will present the individuality of ten past generations. INDIVIDUALS launches 10x10 at the official opening of DOWNTOWN, the public program of AIFW. The opening for press and friends will be on 21 January 2011 from 17:00 till 20:00 in the BY AMFI statement store at Spui 23 in Amsterdam. The installation is open for everyone from 22 till 29 January, daily from 12:00 to 18:00.

Maison de Bonneterie and Amsterdam International Fashion Week will celebrate the opening of the Designers Market. To help celebrate we would like to invite you to our fashion bingo. We’ll have drinks, bites and fashionable prizes. Designers market: 21-30 January: Daily 11.00-17.30 Thursday 10.00-21.00 Sunday 12.00-18.00 Top designers participating in Fashion Week this year will sell their Spring/Summer 2011 collection at Maison de Bonneterie. We would like to invite you to come and explore our ever-surprising House of Fashion: Maison de Bonneterie.

Fashion Addicted is a unique fashion party by and for people working in the fashion world and anyone who wants to celebrate the opening of Amsterdam International Fashion Week. Fashion Addicted promises fashionable DJs, high entertainment, VIP packages, fashion and beauty shows and more. Line up: ERICK E, BAGGI BEGOVIC, CLAIRE EN SHEILA HILL Studio Celeb playroom with RUBEN VAN DER MEER & Friends.

Opening: open to the public Exhibition: open to the public. Free entry www.individualsatamfi.nl

Opening: open to the public Exhibition: open to the public. Free entry www.debonneterie.nl

Open to the public, for tickets: www.panama.nl For more information see www.styletoday.nl Sales information at www.panama.nl

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FASHION ADDICTED Panama, Oostelijke Handelskade 4 Saturday 22 January 23:00 – 04:00

Fashion Addicted is organized by Panama and club Styletoday.nl, the largest fashion and beauty website in the Netherlands.


photography linda mosterd

College Hotel

Jazzy Sunday Afternoon at the COLLEGE HOTEL Roelof Hartstraat 1 Sunday 23 January 17:00 – 19:00 On Sunday 23 January The College Hotel opens its doors to the first in a series of swinging jazz Sunday afternoons with live music. The dark colours and cozy atmosphere of the Bar Lounge make it an ideal location for a wonderful jazzy Sunday afternoon. Have a relaxing drink to the live jazz of Rene van Beeck, one of Amsterdam's finest bassists. Each edition has a bar-related theme, like 'Hennessy' for example, that takes visitors to the worlds of coffee and cognac and trendy cocktails mixed by a professional team.

Open to the public

Ocultos entre el bosque

Ocultos entre el bosque Berenstraat 24 Opening: Saturday 22 January 14:00 Exhibition: 22–30 January, 12:00 – 18:00 We invite everyone to our exhibition on Saturday 22 January. A shared interest in the transcendental has brought about a collaboration between designer Zyanya Keizer, photographer Linda Mosterd and audiovisual artist Sandrijn van der Horst. The Ocultos entre el bosque collection is based on a surrealistic forest that combines a man-made environment with raw nature. Trees are made of steel and insects merge with mechanical devices. The garments are inspired by insects’ armor and the soft obscurity of a forest at nightfall. The collection will be complemented by photography and audiovisual installations. Zyanyakeizer.com, Lindamosterd.com, Forestial.com, berenstraat24.nl Opening: open to the public Exhibition: open to the public. Free entry

A’DAM, Men & Fashion Amsterdam Historical Museum Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 357 Saturday 22 January 11:00-17:00 Also every other day from 11:00-17:00 Most Dutch people shy away from extravagant clothes. Especially men. A flamboyant Dutchman seems a contradiction in terms. A pair of jeans, surely that’s unconventional enough? The Amsterdam Historical Museum shows A’DAM, men & fashion, an exhibition that focuses on men and their clothes in Amsterdam down the centuries.

Open to the public . Entrance €10 frontrow | winter 2011 |

71


Extra Extra

Downtown’s Best

True Blue - it's a collection

NON by KIM

NON by KIM, Presentation

True Blue – it’s a collection

Film & Fashion at Het Ketelhuis

Tuesday 25 January

Amsterdam city centre Various events in Amsterdam Location and times can be found on www.bugaboo.com

Het Ketelhuis Westergasterrein 25, 26, 27 and 28 January at 19:30

The House of NON is the sixth collection of NON by KIM.

Bugaboo introduces the new Bugaboo Denim 107 collection, a new twist on one of the brand’s most popular designs to date. Authentic, stylish, no nonsense. The Bugaboo Denim 107 collection is available from February 2011. For this special edition the Bugaboo Cameleon and the Bugaboo Bee are dressed in a deep-blue denim wash with authentic details. The contrasting stitching and denim rivets have been designed to reflect stylish denim culture. The launch of the new Bugaboo Denim 107 collection will be celebrated with several events during Amsterdam Fashion Week in January 2011. Learn more at www.bugaboo.com.

25 January: Valentino The Last Emperor by Matt Tyrnauer 26 January: Yves Saint Laurent L’Amour Fou by Pierre Thoretton 27 January: Lagerfeld Confidential by Rodolphe Marconi 28 January: The September Issue by R.J. Cutler

NON returns home, to a place of shelter and comfort. Enter my house, where the warmth of cherished memories, curiosities and objects of nostalgia fuse with broken geometry and abstract modernism. This is mine. This is where I belong. For the time and location check www.amsterdamfashionweek.com/downtown

Open to the public. Free entry 72 | frontrow | winter 2011

Open to the public. Free entry www.bugaboo.com

Four special fashion documentaries are being shown specially for the Amsterdam International Fashion Week at Het Ketelhuis. What happens behind the scenes at Chanel, Valentino or Vogue? Film & Fashion gives a fascinating look into the international fashion world. A world of passion, creativity, wealth, stress and tough competition. Be taken into the world of the greatest fashion icons: Yves Saint Laurent, Chanel, Lagerfeld and Anna Wintour. A must-see for every fashion addict. Open to the public €9 (tickets can be booked at 020-684 00 90)


Redken

Your Hallucination is Now Complete – Steven Klein Westergoud Friday, Saturday and Sunday at various times between 10:00 and 18:00 Your Hallucination is Now Complete, a new video piece by Steven Klein, offers a panorama of the various fashion series created by the photographer between 2001 and 2010, through which he has painted a portrait of decadence and decay in America. The photographer addresses the breakdown of American society with elaborately staged images in which colour and light are more than merely tools of easy seduction. His dark, baroque allegories unfold page by page, embodied by a model who in Klein's work does not simply pose, but acts. Steven Kleins images appear regularly in American Vogue, Vogue Italia and W, and he has worked on numerous advertising campaigns, notably for Alexander McQueen, Calvin Klein and Dolce & Gabbana. The exhibition is organized by Foam. Open to the public. Free entry. Check www.foam.nl

REDKEN PRESS LAUNCH

Ready to fish – Escapism

Haartheater, Weteringsschans 140 Monday 24 January at 13:00

MC Theater Polonceaukade 5, Westergasterrein Saturday 29 January 17:30 – 20:00

On Monday 24 January at 13:00 REDKEN gives an exclusive preview of hair fashion trends in color and styling specially for the beauty and fashion business press. Also the latest innovation from REDKEN color, SEQ Cream, will be launched. SEQ Cream focuses on the fashionconscious young woman who wants a trendy hair colour, while staying close to herself. The preview will take place at The Hair Theater in Amsterdam at Weteringschans 140. With an interior where Amsterdam meets New York, this salon is the perfect location to reveal new ideas for the coming season.

On 29 January Ready to fish_ presents Escapism, a dazzling and enchanting circus that will take you to an imaginary world. Showtime every 30 minutes between 17:30 and 20:00 with drinks and bites in between.

By invitation only

Open to the public, limited access www.readytofish.nl frontrow | winter 2011 |

73


Street Style

Sidewalk/Catwalk 74 | frontrow | winter 2011


So much to chose from, so many clothes, accessories and brands. No better place to get a virtuoso fashion update than the pavement of Westergasfabriek during Amsterdam Fashion Week. Because just as every fashion designer has his dedicated followers, just like every fashion city has its flamboyant champions, every fashion season has its prize-winning shoe. And bag. And nail polish. Oh how we love Amsterdam International Fashion Week! photography peter stigter frontrow | winter 2011 |

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Frontrow Publishers

Sanoma Glossies by Numbers 1,114,317 readers monthly

9,162,078

glossy magazines annually

219,900 male readers

2,139

air kisses at AIFW

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78

women and four men on the payroll

2,652

editorial fashion pages per year

80,017

magazine pages yearly

258

(inter)national fashion shows visited by Sanoma’s fashion teams

2,538

dresses published per season, over 3,522 pairs of shoes

AW10 / Jan Taminiau frontrow | winter 2011 |

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Not Without

Partners ABN AMRO

www.abnamro.com ABN AMRO is closely involved with the fashion industry. For the 14th time, we support Amsterdam International Fashion Week. As a bank, we find it important to help young creative talent excel in their profession and their businesses. This is the key for closing the gap between the bank, AIFW and the fashion industry. In cooperation with AIFW, ABN AMRO has

set up a special program that responds to the needs of fashion designers who have just started a company or a new label. The Fashion Fasterclass provides support and guidance to a select group of motivated, promising designers entering the market as entrepreneurs. Following the great success of the first Fashion Faster classes ABN AMRO and AIFW will host this program again in 2011.

To emphasize our commitment to the Dutch fashion industry ABN AMRO will soon launch a devoted fashion desk that will combine our expertise in this sector to give the best possible advice to fashion entrepreneurs. For more information about the ABN AMRO fashion desk, call Manolo Marquez, tel: 020343 80 68.

twelve. (source NOM-STIR).

Dutch designers through sponsoring and media attention, and by creating opportunities at the international level. Just look at the fashion talent of Daryl van Wouw, Percy Irausquin+, Viktor and Rolf, Jan Taminiau, Spijkers en Spijkers and G-star. And that is only the start.

Sanoma

www.sanoma-adverteren.nl With some 75 consumer magazines, 180 websites, six events, fifteen mobile sites, nine apps and all the accompanying extensions, Sanoma Uitgevers is the largest cross media publisher in the Netherlands. Sanoma media reaches about 90% of the Dutch population aged above

Sanoma has joined forces with Amsterdam International Fashion Week to make it the place to be seen in the world of fashion. It’s fresh, it’s different, it’s Dutch. We intend to promote

Maybelline

www.maybelline.nl Maybelline New York is proud to be the official make-up expert of AIFW. Together with House of Orange and Clayton Leslie, Maybelline’s own make-up artist, Maybelline New York will realize the make-up for every catwalk show. As

the No. 1 make-up brand in the world, it is our goal to help all women express their individual beauty. The latest trends from fashion capital New York City are translated into trendy, innovative high-quality products. Our partner-

ship with AIFW is a perfect alliance, in which Maybelline’s colour expertise is professionally linked to fashion at its most artistic.

national Fashion Week Redken has been responsible for the hairstyling at all the shows, in collaboration with top stylists Martin Wentzel and Rutger van der Heide and their teams from View Agency. Rutger has been a member of in-

ternational fashion week teams, like New York and Paris, for years. Everyone can achieve runway styles everyday with Redken styling products. Visit www.redken.nl to find a Redken salon for your fashion look.

Redken

www.redken.nl Redken is the fashion brand for professional hairstyling. Providing cutting-edge styling products in its portfolio, Redken is the backstage brand of fashion weeks around the world. Since the first edition of the Amsterdam Inter78 | frontrow | winter 2011


Volvo

www.volvocars.com Volvo design is an alliance between styling and engineering that aims to create beautiful premium cars with a sophisticated content. They are the safest cars in the world, engineered with consideration for our customers

and the wider environment. The way we make people feel reflects the way we build our cars. Volvo chose to be a partner of Amsterdam International Fashion Week to demonstrate how much it cares about fa-

shion and design. There's more to life than a Volvo. That's why you drive one. Volvo. For Life.

connect card members with their favourite designers and take them deep into the world of fashion. The company’s focus is on providing card members with unparalleled access to the fashion world’s most glamorous designers,

shows and activities. Members of American Express’ Lifestyle Services Card will be able to view the runway shows.

ties and believe that creativity inspires. ROSEMOUNT’s wines are fruity and have a soft mouth-feeling that consumers love. ROSEMOUNT strives for an exciting and refreshing approach to making wines, the evidence for which is found in every diamond-shaped bottle of ROSEMOUNT. We are leaders, not followers. We strive to do

things differently and we aim to inspire our consumers to be like us: sophisticated, stylish and fabulously unique.

tions between visitors, organisers, fashionistas and trend watchers. Power to You signals an important shift in our relationship with our customers. When you see those three words

in our communications you should know they mean just what they say. That will become clear to you when you’re at the AIFW.

natural affinity with Moët, the champagne for fabulous celebrations of romance, success, a personal triumph or a public achievement, onscreen or off. The dramatic pop of the cork

heightens the atmosphere and assures us something unique is happening. Celebration is an art, the art of creating a shared emotion, the art of sharing magic.

American Express

www.americanexpress.com AMERICAN EXPRESS GLAMS IT UP AT AMSTERDAM INTERNATIONAL FASHION WEEK 2011 American Express is a sponsor of Amsterdam International Fashion Week, where we will

Rosemount

www.rosemountestate.com ROSEMOUNT, the famous Australian wine brand, is proud to be a sponsor of Amsterdam International Fashion Week. Internationally awarded ROSEMOUNT wines, like Dutch fashion, are young and inspired not just made, but created. At ROSEMOUNT we’re excited by possibili-

Get an exclusive behind-the-scenes look at Amsterdam International Fashion Week at www.rosemountestate.com.

Vodafone

www.vodafone.nl Vodafone is a partner of Amsterdam International Fashion Week. At the AIFW, we facilitate a place where creative people can meet around fashion subjects, to enrich creative conversa-

Moët & Chandon www.moet.com

Moët & Chandon has been the symbol of fabulous celebrations for over 260 years. Moët is a celebration of the senses and the emotions. Celebrities, as their very name implies, have a

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Not Without

Partners Lavazza

www.lavazza.it Spreading the aroma and quality of Italian espresso around the world has always been our main aim. So we strive for excellence and innovation, drawing our strength from more than a century of experience. Today, Lavazza

is available in more than 90 countries on five continents and covers the entire spectrum of coffee consumers’ needs. Lavazza is a symbol of Italian espresso and Italian identity worldwide. As fashion is an integral part of

our Italian identity and culture, our presence at Amsterdam International Fashion Week is entirely natural. We are proud to be a part of this exciting event.

from the city’s hotel-management schools. Within the walls of a beautifully restored 19thcentury school building, the hotel’s historic feel balances respect for authenticity with state-of-the-art design. THECOLLEGEHOTEL is an incomparable

experience, whether you’re staying overnight, enjoying lunch or dinner, or relaxing in the Bar Lounge. The Hotel also has private rooms which can be used for dining or meetings.

Style, International, contemporary, stylish, modern Where, Showroom Amsterdam City Centre and at www.esqo-living.com

AIFW & ESQO, Because your identity doesn’t stop at your wardrobe, it is in all of your home.

nation of creativity, innovation and commercial spirit. Iamsterdam is the motto that creates the brand for the city and people of Amsterdam. In saying or expressing Iamsterdam,

we demonstrate a clear choice for the city of Amsterdam. Iamsterdam shows our pride, our confidence and our dedication. Iamsterdam is our personal endorsement of our city.

groups and provides poster panels at secondary schools, third level colleges, universities and grand cafés. With Hillenaar’s increasing numbers of outdoor locations in Amsterdam, we are proud to promote Amsterdam International Fashion

Week in this important city. Furthermore, Hillenaar offers advertising spaces in other prominent cities such as Rotterdam and The Hague to provide AIFW with an even wider reach.

The College Hotel

www.thecollegehotel.com THECOLLEGEHOTEL is an intimate, warm and luxurious boutique hotel in Amsterdam’s fashionable Zuid (South), right at the centre of the city’s Fashion & Museum District. Our four-star hotel is managed by highly experienced professionals assisted by students

Esqo Living

www.esqo-living.com What, A Brand-new retail furniture concept Why, Because it’s achievable and affordable Collection, Sofas, dining tables, dining chairs, coffee tables, lighting and carpets

Amsterdam Partners www.amsterdampartners.nl

The goal of Amsterdam Partners is to improve the image of the Amsterdam Metropolitan Area in the rest of the Netherlands and abroad. Amsterdam is distinctive in its combi-

Hillenaar

www.hillenaar.nl Hillenaar, one of the three biggest outdoor advertising companies in the Netherlands, develops outdoor media such as billboards, several street furniture formats, Q-Park panels and Highway signs. The Hillenaar indoor media mainly focuses on the younger target 80 | frontrow | winter 2011


The Last Exit

Hello and Goodbye They vary from walking every inch of the runway while soaking up the love of the audience, to being missed in a blink. Designers’ farewells. photography peter stigter

claes iversen

dagmar

bastiaan

mattijs

mada van gaans

iris van herpen

roparosa

addy van den krommenacker

bas kosters

82 | frontrow | winter 2011

bibi van der velden

sis by spijkers en spijkers

.marloesblaas.

jan taminiau



Frontrow Magazine #3