Explorer Nov-Dec 2019

NOV - DEC 2019

WHERE DO YOU WANT TO GO NEXT?

MAGAZINE FROM THE PLAINS TO THE PEAKS

THE SERENGETI WITH ASILIA AFRICA

THE ULTIMATE BIG APPLE ADDRESS

THE LANGHAM NEW YORK FIFTH AVE

137 PILLARS HOUSE

CATHAY PACIFIC BUSINESS CLASS

YOUR NEW CARRY-ON LUGGAGE

PUBLISHER'S LETTER

W

elcome to the last Explorer for 2019 and what a year it’s been.

As we put together the six issues of the year, we’ve had the chance to jet around the world in search of exciting destinations and experiences and had the chance to meet with many of you

as we do so. Travel should bring people together, enrich us collectively as well as individually; when we leave our comfort zones and delve into new locales, we open our minds to cultures and traditions that are new to us, and bring this wisdom home with us. And when we think of places where travellers come together, hotels spring to mind because they’re home to us all for that one moment in passing. This issue we look at some of our favourite hotels, each very different from the next, each designed to meet the needs of a different traveller. In New York we check in at the Langham New York Fifth Ave, quite possibly the most indulgent hotel in the Big Apple, and also have time to explore the northern Thai city of Chiang Mai from our luxurious base, 137 Pillars House. In the Serengeti accommodation takes on a different approach at two stunning game lodges by Asilia Africa, Kimondo Camp and the eye-catching The Highlands. Of course, there’s also time to check out Cathay Pacific, one of the world’s foremost airlines, on a flight to South Africa, discover the newest resorts and hotels to open this season, and stop in for a few travel-related products in our Travel Essentials section.

Wherever you’re travelling this festive season, we hope you do so in safety and happiness and, while you’re far from home, don’t be a stranger to those around you. You never know the bonds you might forge.

Safe Travels

David Leung Publisher

WORLD IN PICS

A World of Wonders From hidden caves to discovered wildlife, these are the travel images inspiring our adventures this season.

1. The annual Fantasy Fest Masquerade in Key West, Florida sees more than 10,000 visitors to the Florida Keys each year.

Credit: The Florida Keys & Key West 2. Rio de Janeiro remains one of the hottest destinations for 2020. Credit: Chimu Adventures 3. Aurora Expeditions' Greg Mortimer recently won the award for 'Best New Ship' from Cruise Critic. The latest in a series of dynamic new expedition cruise vessels, the ship is the first ship with an inverted X-Bow. Credit: Aurora Expeditions 4. Lafayette Travel and the Bayou Vermilion District have partnered for a third year to host the Vermilion Voyage (March 27-29), a three-day overnight paddle down the Bayou Vermilion from the Acadiana Park Nature Station to Palmetto Island State Park. Credit: Lafayette Louisiana 5. The Algar de Benagil cave is a popular drawcard to Portugal’s Algarve region. Credit: Austin Adventures 6. It's official, Cabarita Beach in the Tweed region of New South Wales is the best beach in Australia for 2020, according to Tourism Australia's beach expert, Brad Farmer.

Credit: The Tweed Tourism Co 7. A safari at Wilderness Safari’s Linkwasha Camp is a chance to explore the unique wildlife of the Zambezi River.

8. Inspired by Scandinavian wellness traditions and the bold ruggedness of the Canadian Rocky surroundings, the Canadian designed Kananaskis Nordic Spa is an excellent destination to recover and relax after a day of snowshoeing or sightseeing. Credit: Kananaskis Nordic Spa

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What’s Happening ASIAN LE MANS SERIES (ROUND 3) SEPANG INTERNATIONAL CIRCUIT, MALAYSIA

FEBRUARY 14-15, 2020

The latest season of the Asian Le Mans Series will prove especially popular with motor racing enthusiasts, with Kuala Lumpur’s Sepang International Circuit hosting a two-day endurance touring car competition that includes races that last after sunset.

International teams will compete for the chance to race at the iconic 24 Hours of Le Mans event in France.

PENANG HOT AIR BALLOON FIESTA 2020 PENANG, MALAYSIA

FEBRUARY 1-2, 2020

Making the most of the monsoon winds, this international event showcases the best of hot air balloon design and piloting. A major drawcard to the Malaysian island of Penang, the Hot Air Balloon Fiesta attracts both local and international teams over two days, with creative workshops, light shows and of course, plenty of great street food, on offer on terra firma.

FESTIVAL NÓMADE

SANTIAGO, CHILE

FEBRUARY 4-10, 2020

Indulge in seven days of wellness-inspired experiences in Maipú, Chile at Festival Nómade.

Set in a waterfront retreat, this mind-rejuvenating event invites tranquillity-seekers to live a nomadic life with a diversity of festivities, from hand-painting, yoga and meditation to dancing, camping and live music performances, while encouraging cultural exchanges and connection with nature. Challenge yourself to finish a 10-kilometre guided hike up to the festival venue, before assembling your own tents for the weeklong getaway.

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What’s Happening

MAHA SHIVARATRI FESTIVAL

PASIR GUDANG WORLD KITE FESTIVAL

FEBRUARY 21, 2020

FEBRUARY 27-MARCH 3, 2020

The Maha Shivaratri Festival, or ‘The Night of Shiva’, is a Hindu celebration held across various countries on the fourteenth night of the lunar month in honour of Lord Shiva. In Kathmandu, the capital of Nepal, the event sees devotees perform ritual worship in the Pashupatinath temple, while the Nepalese army parades around the city, and traditional music and dancing continues through the night. Visitors can then delve into the religion and Nepali tradition at the famous Shiva Shakti Peetham shrine near the event venue.

The biggest kite flying event on the Malaysian calendar, the Pasir Gudang World Kite Festival gathers together over 250 kite enthusiasts from over 40 countries. Malaysia has a proud tradition of kites, including Wau Bulan, intricately designed Malaysian moon-kites, and the event draws locals and visitors alike. Held since 1995, the event showcases both traditional and contemporary kite designs and features flying demonstrations, colourful ground displays and competitions for both kite creation and dexterity.

KATHMANDU, NEPAL

SOUTH BY SOUTHWEST AUSTIN, TEXAS

MARCH 14-22, 2020 With its origins as an indie film festival, South by Southwest exhibits a variety of films, media, and music all over Austin each spring. With film viewings and music performances set against workshops and seminars from leaders in the tech, film, music, media and business worlds, the event is a great excuse to head for Texas’ most unique city, with film premiers, celebrity-attended music events and much more.

MALAYSIA

RIO CARNIVAL

RIO DE JANERIO, BRAZIL

FEBRUARY 21-26, 2020

The world’s largest street festival, the Rio Carnival is a festival held before Lent every year and welcomes over two million people per day. The highlight of the week-long festivities is the procession of samba schools, the dancers from which are dressed in striking costumes and followed by ranks of eyecatching floats.

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news Tea with a Maiko An iconic cultural symbol of Japan, Geisha are the skilled artisans that have entertained Japan’s elite for hundreds of years through performances in singing, dancing and playing musical instruments, which takes place in specific districts known as hanamachi. An encounter with a Geisha or Maiko (a Geisha in training) is not as common as you might think, even for locals. Now a regular seasonal event conceived by award-winning ryokan Hoshinoya Kyoto allows women – traditionally not allowed to participate – as well as men to experience the timeless hospitality of the hanamachi.

Due to the declining number of Geisha and Maiko in recent years, there has been an ongoing struggle to find people that can carry on hanamachi traditions including hairdressers and kimono dressers that specialise in

Wonders of the Deep

assisting these artisans with their unique and beautiful

SEA LIFE Melbourne Aquarium unveils the mysteriously

culture as an Intangible Cultural Property of Kyoto, and

fascinating world of jellyfish with the launch of its brand-

the city is now dedicated to preserving and furthering

new exhibit, Ocean Invaders. The new $1.5 million sensory

traditional events surrounding Geisha and Maiko.

experience immerses guests in the beauty of jellyfish over

three zones filled with mesmerising displays that encourage

Run from February to March each year, the event gives

guest interaction.

guests the opportunity to meet and ask Maiko about

appearance. In 2014, Kyoto recognised hanamachi

their daily practice so as to further the interest and The Ocean Invaders Jelly Lab gives guests the opportunity to

understanding of the women who keep this Japanese

become a 'jellyfish-ianado' and discover an array of facts about

tradition alive. During the event, guests will learn

the lifecycle of a jellyfish and peek behind the scenes at the

about the unique lifestyle of the Maiko, including their

team of experts tending to the blooms of these graceful (and

beauty regime, and will witness an exquisite dance

sometimes dangerous) sea creatures. Children can also let their

performance. Be sure to book well in advance for this

creativity flow by making their very own digital jellyfish, which

unique occasion.

comes alive to dance across the Interactive Wonder Wall.

Ocean Invaders gives guests the chance to get up close with various species of these alien-like creatures including lion's mane, blue blubber, Australian spotted, upside down, sea nettle and moon jellyfish.

Ocean Invaders also educates guests about the causes behind the increasing population – or invasion – of certain species of jellyfish in our oceans and the actions people can take to limit these exponential and sometimes problematic population increases.

In addition to this exciting new exhibit, guests to SEA LIFE Melbourne can also get up close with thousands of magnificent sea creatures including Leo the leopard shark, Thorpey and Moana the flatback sea turtles, Pinjarra the saltwater crocodile and the colony of King and Gentoo penguins.

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news

Glamping Arrives in Utah If you’re looking for a chance to commune with nature in a landscape that’s both ancient and dramatic, Amangiri’s new Camp Sarika just might be the glamping experience for you. Adding the finer things in life to a Utah camping trip, Camp Sarika opens in April, a 30-minute hike (or fiveminute drive) from sister property Amangiri, a luxurious hideaway that opened in this breathtaking desert landscape in 2009.

The camp’s ten Luxury Frontiers-designed tented pavilions, blissfully marooned in a 245-hectare sea of raw wilderness, will each include private plunge pools for those taking afternoon dips, one or two bedrooms, living and dining areas, and a wet bar where you can mix up sundowners that are best sipped on the extensive terrace, complete with a fire pit where s’more construction under a starry skyscape is all but mandatory.

If you feel like being social, you’ll meet like-minded travellers at the main pool and jacuzzi (don’t hot tubs just have a way of drawing in the curious and conversational?), in the camp’s Selldorf Architects-designed main pavilion, at the restaurant’s rotisserie grill, or en route to the intimate but indulgent spa, where traditional Navajo wellness practices have been incorporated into contemporary treatments.

You’ll also be able to escape on hiking trips on the camp’s own trails, canyoneering outings on the camp’s Via Ferrata route, day trips into one of the five surrounding national parks, guided horseback riding excursions and even visits to Native American communities where storytelling around a roaring fire is a tradition that is passed down from generation to generation.

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news Your New Bali Hideaway Families looking to enjoy the tropical sun and surf of Bali can now do so at Mandala The Bay, a sublime new villa on its own rocky islet just minutes from the Island of the Gods. Operated by M. Group and the fourth of the group’s design-led Mandala Places residences, Mandala.

The Bay is a stunning five-bedroom villa on the island of Nusa Lembongan, a short boat ride from Bali.

A private retreat like no other, the new residence is surrounded by crystal clear waters that are renowned for surfing, diving and snorkelling, with pristine, deserted beaches always only a few minutes away. Combining Balinese architecture with Mediterranean-leaning and slightly bohemian interiors, as well as a curated art collection, the villa boasts five individually-designed king bedrooms – including a master bedroom set on a Joglo structure carved in teak – spread across 1,200 square metres.

To help families make the most of their time in paradise, there’s a fully-stocked cocktail bar, a swimming pool with ocean views, lush bathrooms with deep-soak tubs, and even a library, for when you’re writing those memorable dinner toasts your guests will expect.

After a long day exploring the island and its vibrant

Walk the Flinders Ranges

surrounding seas, catching up on your downwardfacing dog or catching break’s below the Devil’s Tear, all organised by a dedicated concierge, retreat to the ocean-

Two of the best walking experiences in South Australia have teamed

fronted ‘secret’ fire pit with its banquette seating set into

up to create Ranges to River, enabling guests to walk in the spectacular

the cliffside rock.

Flinders Ranges and along the meandering Murray River, fully guided, over eight days and seven nights staying in outdoor comfort tailored to each landscape.

Ranges to River is a collaboration between two of South Australia's Great Walks of Australia, Arkaba Walk in the Flinders Ranges and Murray River Walk. Arkaba Walk offers three nights in spectacular eco-camps and at the Arkaba Luxury Lodge — Murray River Walk offers 3 nights on a modern houseboat that moves to each daily walking destination.

The combined walks offer a magical winter experience on an 80 km journey through dry creek beds, isolated springs lined with ancient River Red Gums, craggy ridge lines and rolling hills covered in cypress pines to the majestic floodplain forests and coloured cliffs of the Murray River. Cruising on our greatest river and its meandering bends will leave you reinvigorated by these two outback landscapes. Three departure dates are planned for 2020 — 11th June, 16th July, 6th August.

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news Desert Diva If the Namib Desert isn’t on your bucket list for 2020, the reopening of the andBeyond Sossusvlei Private Desert Reserve just might change your mind. The andBeyond Sossusvlei Private Desert Reserve has emerged from an extensive refurbishment and is looking better than ever. Nestled deep in the heart of Namibia’s ancient Namib Desert, the andBeyond camp overlooks the desert’s pristine natural terrain.

Home to just ten exquisite suites and the coveted two-bedroomed Star Dune Suite, guest spaces at andBeyond Sossusvlei feature floorto-ceiling picture windows, enlarged skylights for those evenings spent stargazing, spacious master bedrooms with king-size beds, and décor that pays homage to the pristine desert landscape.

Other signature features of this truly unique retreat include a oneof-a-kind gym, a two-part wellness centre with a treatment room, a private spa bath, and a dedicated wet treatment room, which might come in handy after days spent exploring this moonscape via hot air balloon or desert drive, private dining atop a sand dune, or sessions at the on-site observatory.

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AIRLINES

Gateway to Southern Africa

After the departure of South African Airways on the route, the Hong Kong-Johannesburg service by Cathay Pacific has become a crucial connection between Asia and Southern Africa, and one the airline dominates with market-leading service and an intuitive business class product, discovers Nick Walton on a recent flight.

CHECK-IN/THE LOUNGE

featured 40 business class seats, as well as 32 19.5-inch-wide

I initially checked in for my flight using the Cathay Pacific

premium economy class seats and 268 standard economy

app, which is among my favourite airline apps due to its

class seats, each at 18.5-inches wide.

intuitive design and ease of use. Once I arrived at Hong Kong International Airport, I checked in my luggage, made

I’m a huge fan of Cathay’s Cirrus reverse herringbone

my way through security, and took the transit train down the

business class seat; spacious, intelligent and private, the seat

concourse to reach the airline’s The Pier lounge, which was

trumps almost every other out there and those it doesn’t

conveniently located beside my departing gate, Gate 66.

are pretty much based on the Cirrus seat anyway. The seat is a space in which travellers can really make the most of

Unfortunately, no sooner had I sat down with a glass of wine

their flight; there’s a large tray for dining and working, easy

and a bite to eat at what I consider to be Cathay’s sexiest

to reach AC and USB jacks, intuitive controls for the seat

lounge at HKIA, and the reception staff announced over

position and entertainment system, and plenty of storage

the intercom that the departing gate had been changed to

space for laptops and shoes in compartments at the sides,

Gate 4, at the other end of the airport, so I walked back to

and smaller items in the compartment at shoulder height.

The Wing, the CX lounge closest to the new gate, which was packed.

At my seat, a mattress topper, duvet, and pillow were already supplied, secured in a zipped bag, as part of the airline’s new

It wasn’t long until I boarded the three-class 777-300ER

collaboration with Bamford, a supplier of luxury manchester.

aircraft, where I quickly found my seat, 23D, in the larger of

A bottle of mineral water and a signature amenity kit were

the aircraft’s two business class cabins.

also stored away in the shoulder-height compartment, along

THE SEAT The 777 Cathay operates on the Johannesburg route

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with a pair of headphones. The seat is also brilliant on these long-haul flights because of its comfort as a bed, especially when matched with the new linens from Bamford.

AIRLINES I’m a fan of the burger – it’s such a great departure from conventional airline food, with a big wedge of crispy lettuce and the zesty notes of the relish, and it hasn’t let me down yet, especially when paired with bold and slightly spicy Boekenhoutskloof The Chocolate Block red from South Africa (when in Rome after all).

ENTERTAINMENT We’ve spoken about CX’s recent revamp of its entertainment system before and while the movie choices are a little eclectic and the touchscreen sensitivity is a little dulled on these older 777s, there’s no doubt that the StudioCX system has something for everyone.

SERVICE These red eye flights are far harder on the crew than they are Soon after sitting down, a surprisingly upbeat crew (it’s

on passengers, especially those in the comfort of business class,

almost midnight remember) served glasses of water, juice and

where sleep it all but assured. The crew were all seasoned pros

Billecart-Salmon Brut champagne, as well as piping hot towels.

and regularly patrolled the cabin, topping up drinks, handing out

An older, more seasoned crew, they made service in the very

bottles of water right up until landing, and generally ensuring all

full cabin look easy, and very quickly we were watching the

passengers felt welcomed and cared for, with a senior crew member

safety video as the plane taxied through the darkness for our

individually thanking passengers for travelling with them as we

1.10 am departure slot.

approached Johannesburg. Service has clearly become a focus

DINING Despite flying all the time, it still takes me a little while to relax

of the airline once again, or at least that’s the overall impression we’ve been getting from Cathay Pacific over the past six month’s eight long haul flights.

enough on planes to be able to sleep, so I decided to have a bite and watch a movie. Like many of the passengers around

SUMMARY

me, I filled in the pre-order breakfast form, which is a great

Soon we were skimming over the brown and yellow patchwork

strategy as it means I would only be woken from my slumber

of rural South Africa, landing in the capital city’s O. R. Tambo

when breakfast was ready, or I could advise crew not to wake

International Airport 10 minutes ahead of schedule after a very

me at all.

pleasant journey with what I still consider to be Asia’s leading airline.

Dinner began with the customary drinks service - I went with the newly relaunched Betsy Beer 2.0, a craft beer brewed specially for the airline by a local Hong Kong brewery – and

Cathay Pacific Hong Kong to Johannesburg in Business Class from US$6,119 per person.

skipped the entrée due to the late hour. Mains included a choice of steamed black cod with a preserved Chinese olives and mandarin peel sauce, choy sum and steamed jasmine rice; a grilled beef tenderloin with roasted artichoke heart, ovendried tomato, olives, soft polenta and a thyme jus; and the airline’s acclaimed beef burger, with Monterey Jack cheese, bacon, pickled onion and zucchini, on a toasted brioche bun, with chunky fries on the side. Lighter options included a sweet potato soup garnished with sour cream and garlic croutons; and a warm bean salad with roasted fennel, Romarco and ricotta salsa; as well as a cheese plate with Steinerberger, Camembert, Le Pere and rosemary paste; or chilled pomelo with sago pearls in mango and coconut milk.

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new YORK

TheUltimate

Big Apple Address

Located at the heart of thriving Manhattan, The Langham New York Fifth Ave continues to capture the essence of this incredible city to perfection, discovers Nick Walton.

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NEW YORK

T

here’s little doubt that spring is

What will grab you the moment you walk into The

the best time to visit New York.

Langham is how serene and tactile everything

Perfectly positioned between the

is. There is art and texture and consideration

balmy days of summer and the beautiful but

in every aspect of the hotel, from the iconic

frosty months of winter, spring is a time to walk

sweeping staircase of the lobby (itself a buffer

the city streets, to delve into its parks, and to take

of seclusion between the intoxicating bedlam of

to the waters of its twin rivers. However, anyone

the city and the tranquillity of your room), which

that’s been to New York knows how deceptively

wreaths a breathtaking sculpture called Falling

vast the Big Apple is, and how important it is to

White, to captivating portraits by Alex Katz, part

find the right base from which to explore the city

of an extensive collection valued at US$2 million

that never sleeps.

that can be explored in The Galley, an exhibition and events space on the third floor.

That address should be The Langham New York Fifth Ave, a hotel I’ve visited and fallen in love

The elegant integration of art, texture, and

with in the past. Located steps from the Empire

tangibility extends to the hotel’s 234 cream and

State Building and a short walk from the New

coffee-toned guest rooms and suites. My Junior

York Public Library, Bryant Park and the theatres

Suite is the very picture of muted refinement;

of Midtown, The Langham really is situated

spacious and intuitively presented, there’s a

in the heart of Manhattan, making it ideal for

sizable living space, an expansive desk, a king-

exploration on foot. Situated on Fifth Ave, one

sized Swedish Duxiana bed draped in Pratesi

of the city’s most stylish boulevards, from The

linens, an Italian-designed walk-in closet with a

Langham Chelsea and the Hudson Yards are

beauty table and glass-fronted drawers. There

easily accessible, as is the garment district, while

is also a cavernous bathroom dressed in honey-

Central Park is only 20 stylish blocks north.

hinted marble, with a rain shower, double

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new YORK

vanities, and a deep soak tub that’s heavenly after a day

city’s most coveted guest spaces, the hotel’s two

spent walking the West Village or Tribeca.

Empire State Penthouse Suites, designed by acclaimed French interior design retailer Roche Bobois, won’t

As Manhattan slips into spring, travellers should opt for

disappoint. With interiors inspired by the music and

one of the hotel’s newly redesigned Terrace Rooms and

fashion cultures of New York, each of these sumptuous

Suites, located on the 5th and 11th floors. Designed

suites boasts architecturally inspired tables and chairs,

and landscaped by New York firm Blondie’s Treehouse

and lush fabrics by designers Maison Lacroix and Paul

Inc., each terrace can be used as a private add-on to its

Smith, all offset by pieces from the hotel’s art collection.

assigned guest room or joined together to create a larger

Sequestered in one of these chic New York apartments-

communal terrace for small groups staying together.

style suites, suite guests can even summon a private

Elegantly furnished with a couch, two armchairs, and

chef and host an elegant dinner party, thanks to a fully

two wicker ottomans in teal, each terrace is an idyllic

equipped kitchen and eight-seat dining table.

urban garden from which to soak up the ambiance of Midtown. It’s also the perfect space for the newly

New York can be an onslaught for the senses, so be sure

introduced Celebrations Champagne Cart, which sees

to leave time in your itinerary for a visit to Chuan Body

chilled Laurent Perrier La Cuvée Rosé Champagne NV,

& Soul, the hotel’s signature spa, where traditional

seasonal flowers and a specially-curated variety of

Chinese medicine is incorporated into a range of

sweet and savoury treats delivered to guest rooms.

seductive treatments and rituals founded on the five elements. In addition to a curated range of essential

Of course, if you’re looking to indulge in one of the

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oils, massage oils and teas, the spa uses products by

NEW YORK

Kerstin Florian in treatments like the Urban Detox, an

a space that effortlessly transitions from power lunches

80-minute refining and detoxifying journey that uses

to power cocktails and elegant dinner dining. Be sure to

warm bamboo tools to release deep muscle tension

ask which obscure region of Europe is being explored by

and a multivitamin firming cream to condition the skin.

the sommelier, you’re guaranteed to come across drops you’ve never encountered before.

The Langham New York Fifth Ave has always been a culinary destination and that spirit continues at chef

Despite the appeal of its elegant guest spaces, inspiring

Michael White’s Ai Fiori, home to modern Michelin-

restaurant and a location that has you feeling every

starred Mediterranean cuisine – think Nova Scotia

bit a New Yorker, it’s intelligent service that binds the

lobster terrine with black truffle and prosciutto;

Langham experience, from the cheerful doormen and

Ligurian crustacean ragu with seppia, scallops, and

front desk staff, who know your name the moment you

spiced mollica; and butter-poached Atlantic halibut

step in the lobby, to the bartenders and waiters who

paired with apple, butternut squash, and pecans.

pass on secret nightspot recommendations. The sum of its parts ensures The Langham New York Fifth Ave

Adjacent to the main dining room is Bar Fiori, a

remains my first stop every time I return to the city.

personal favourite and home to one of the city’s best Manhattans (Maker’s Mark Private Select, Chateau Leberon Vin Mute, Mancino vermouth, and Grand Marnier) as well as chef White’s award-winning White Label Burger. The bar has the clicky, welcoming vibe of

400 Fifth Avenue New York; Tel: +1 212 695 4005; www.langhamhotels.com/new-york

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AFRICA

From the Plains

to the Peaks Nick Walton explores two very

different sides of the Tanzanian wildlife experience with visits to two contrasting luxury safari camps.

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AFRICA

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AFRICA

A

fter a rustle of leaves and a

wanted the trip to be as kaleidoscopic as possible, with

creak of bowed wood that’s

a contrast of landscapes and camps that summed up

quickly lost in the breeze,

safari experiences past and present. A tented camp was

two eyes, one frosty blue,

a must; there’s nothing like falling asleep to the sounds

the

honey-hued,

of animals passing through the darkness beyond; the

emerge from the shadows. We have disturbed the

cascading rumble of evening thunderstorms over the

leopard’s slumber and he has moved to where he can

savannah, fat raindrops hitting taut canvas; al fresco

spy our game vehicle from the depths of an ancient

dinners under starry skies; and mood-soaring sunrises as

acacia tree. For a moment there is absolute silence as

you prepare to set out on game drives.

other

humans and cat size each other up, but the tension is broken as the felicitous feline yawns, a great pink tongue

Kimondo is a classic safari camp in the most blissful of

sweeping across its lips, its razor-sharp teeth brilliant in

senses; there’s a tent for communal dining and another

the late afternoon sunshine, before sinking back into the

that serves as an elegant lounge, complete with a trunk-

shadows to finish his nap. This is the beauty of a safari in

style cocktail bar and deep-set leather sofas. From the

the Serengeti, it’s nature at its most sublime.

main tents, a chain of nine hand-crafted East African

NOTHING BUT CANVAS

and Moroccan-influenced canvas and wood suites winds through tall grass. Each guest space boasts a mosquito-

It’s a great start to our first game drive at Kimondo

wreathed king-size bed, spacious en suite with both

Camp, one of two mobile camps operated by safari gurus

indoor and outdoor bucket showers, and views across

Asilia Africa. It’s my wife Maggie’s first time in Africa so I

undulating hills of golden grass where families of

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AFRICA

elephants stroll each afternoon. The longer I stay at

race across the rapids bound for boulder-strewn islets.

Kimondo, the more amazed I am that this entire camp is rolled up and transported seasonally, to offer guests

As we emerge from the thicker foliage of the riverbanks,

the best proximity to the Great Migration, as its million-

flocks of guinea fowl in blue polka dot plumage scurry in

strong herd of wildebeest and zebras travel from the

every direction; a family of five stout warthogs pauses

Lamai Wedge (where the camp is during our visit) in

to watch us before trotting off, their tails erect like car

winter to the southern Serengeti in summer.

aerials, and a pair of shy black-backed jackals watch us

WHERE THE WILD THINGS ARE

from dew-heavy grass.

Much of the Serengeti that surrounds Kimondo is flat

The northern Serengeti is one of the most vibrant parts

savannah that runs towards low purple mountains

of the national park. Between July and November, great

across the border in Kenya, where the Serengeti changes

herds of wildebeest and zebra arrive searching for grass,

its name to the Masai Mara. However, closer to the Mara

and are greeted by year-round residents like giraffe,

River, which is flooded during our visit thanks to late

hippo, impalas, oribi and topi antelopes, and, of course,

seasonal rains, the trees close in, making for great resting

prides of lions. Our guide, Good Luck, whose razor-sharp

spots for troops of baboons, African fish eagles, and of

eyes spotted the leopard, traces the horizon. He smiles

course, leopards. The river’s waters are tumultuous but

and takes our game vehicle up a gentle rise. There’s

soaking hippos, submerged up to their eyes and nostrils,

movement in the golden grass ahead and slowly a family

don’t seem perturbed. Beyond, three adolescent giraffes

of lions takes shape, a lioness leading her five fairly

graze among the acacia trees and black-headed herons

large cubs home from a night’s hunt. The great cats are

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AFRICA

sated and somnolent and saunter past only

night when, after a long afternoon among the zebras and wildebeest, the

feet from the vehicle, a few of the sizeable

first Great Migration arrivals, we make straight for camp, where guests

cubs giving us an inquisitive side glance as

are clustered around a roaring fire pit and camp staff are serving libations

they make for their den in a thicket of trees.

from a vintage drinks trolley. It’s Maggie’s birthday and the whole camp

Beyond, topis in their brown and blue-shaded

celebrates with us; Chef Julius, who has been with Asilia for six years, serves

coats, watch carefully – after all, you never

a spectacular dinner under the stars before the entire staff sing Happy

quite know with lions.

Birthday, first in English and then in a Swahili version that goes on for 15 minutes and involves a great deal of hooting and yelping. I don’t think I’ll

There’s talk on the radio of a trio of young

ever be content hearing the original again.

cheetahs – a coalition – making for the broad valleys of the Masai Mara and we rumble

From Kimondo we take a short flight to Lake Manyara, at the southern tip of

off across the wide savannah in search of

the Serengeti, where our guide Adam drives us up to the lip of the acclaimed

the elusive cats. There are very few other

Ngorongoro Crater. The landscape couldn’t be more different from the

game vehicles out this morning; the shoulder

northern Serengeti; gone are the vast yellow grasslands, replaced by thick

periods offer safari goers (and the animals)

jungle and vibrant red rock, a testament to Olmoti, the brooding volcano on

more privacy and intimacy than the peak

the flanks of which The Highlands by Asilia camp is situated.

season, when vehicles from both safari River to witness the dramatic crossings of

TO THE TOP OF THE WORLD

wildebeest and zebra. Despite our efforts, the

Leaving the main road, we climb a back-jarring, stomach-churning mountain

cheetahs remain undiscovered and instead

track; in some places we’re clinging to the door handles of the 4×4 as it sways

we pause at the border for breakfast as the

violently, the engine groaning (or was that me?) as we climb out of deep ruts

sun climbs high and the air grows warm.

caused by recent heavy rain. There are signs that the local authorities are

camps and day-trip operators crowd the Mara

finally developing this goat track into a real road but until they do it’s a hard, Camps like Kimondo typically offer two game

long journey up to the camp – consider yourself warned.

drives per day, one at dawn and the other in the late afternoon. Many guests like to have

Eventually, after a couple of hours of this torment, we arrive at what feels like

a nap in between – you’re on holiday after all

the top of the world; up here at over 1980m above sea level the tight jungle

– although we found Kimondo’s tents to be too hot during the day so opted to relax in the open-faced lounge instead. Evening drives typically conclude with sundowners, and at the end of our first evening game drive, after spying striped jackals, inquisitive spotted hyena and a family of infinitely-elegant elephants, we arrive at the swirling waters of the Mara, where the camp’s team has set up a campfire (what the camp manager calls a “bush TV”) and a wet bar. We take up camp chairs and listen to hippos groaning in the roaring river beyond as Lappet-faced vultures circle in the dying light.

CELEBRATION IN THE BUSH The magic of the bush continues the second

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AFRICA

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AFRICA

The safari experience is also different here. The 260sqkm crater is only an hour’s drive away (unfortunately down that same goat track) and promises a full safari drive experience in one day, making it popular with day-trippers from Arusha. The crater is nothing short of spectacular. Two million years ago the volcano exploded, leaving a vast, flat and partially sheltered microcosm that’s home to a plethora of animals, from lions and jackals to elephant, zebra, wildebeest, hippos, cape buffalo and many varieties of birds. Species that are usually migratory love the crater so much they never leave.

As we descend from the crater’s edge, Adam points out elephants hiding in corpses of evergreens, dueling adolescent zebras, elegant grey crowned cranes and Egyptian geese, and thousands of pale pink flamingos, of the volcano’s slopes gives way to soaring, distant peaks and broad alpine valleys populated by low-lying shrubs and Maasai villages of simple round huts. Tall, slender boys wrapped in red and blue shawls against the late afternoon chill watch our progress as they tend to herds of white and brown goats. The sun breaks through the low canopy of cloud, casting the

their reflection caught in the waters of a vast soda lake. During lunch under canvas at a riverside spot, the camp’s ever-cheerful staff serve fresh salads and grilled steaks while guests from around the world discuss what they had seen during their drive. There’s a sense of shared discovery that you only get on safari.

scene in a checkerboard of golden light, and suddenly

A UNIQUE ECOSYSTEM

the hardship of the road is (almost) forgotten.

However, the crater also gets very crowded and whenever an animal like a lion is spotted, guides

The Highlands also couldn’t be more different from

charge their game vehicles down dirt paths to besiege

Kimondo. Set high in the mountains, the camp is made

it for their camera-toting clients. This is why the Asilia

up of canvas and perspex dome-shaped buildings, like

team suggest one day in the crater and the rest spent

a moon colony out of a 1950’s comic book. At the top

visiting local villages to see the company’s education

of the camp are the main dining room, a breathtaking

and healthcare initiatives, hiking the nearby Empakaai

lounge, and a separate cocktail bar with wrap-around

Crater, and to soak up the awe-inspiring landscape of

terraces that offer sensational views across the valley

the lodge, which is certainly no hardship.

below.

COOL IN MORE WAYS THAN ONE

It gets cold quickly up on the crater rim, the clear skies venting the day’s heat as a vast canopy of stars

Winding down a steep dirt path are eight tented

emerge from the inky darkness. Staring up at the

suites, cosy, thoroughly Instagrammable individual

constellations and listening to the sounds of life in the

domes with wooden floors, wood-burning stoves,

village below (it’s aptly named Nainokanoka, which

and, in the case of our ‘honeymoon suite’ an outdoor

means fog and cold), I soak in the wood fire-warmed

hot tub on its own stilted platform. Each space is a

tub until a great bank of descending fog chases me

curious blend of African lodge and Scandinavian log

inside with as manly a shriek as I can muster. In

cabin, but it works – at least visually (more about that

the darkness, the flames from the stove dance on

later).

the canvas walls and through the perspex the stars

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AFRICA

twinkle brightly. However, at around 3 am our wood stove goes out and the temperature inside our ohso-picture-perfect bubble nosedives until our breath

TRAVEL ESSENTIALS Fly Ethiopian Airlines from Asia to Kilimanjaro Airport in Tanzania, via Addis Ababa.

emerges as plumes of steam, making the 5 am wakeup call more challenging than ever.

All the same, as we rumble our way past the Maasai shepherds and their flocks on our way back to the airstrip, I see the effect Africa has had in Maggie’s eyes. It’s hard to resist this ancient, contrasting and breathtakingly beautiful place, its savannahs and its highlands, its wild animals and welcoming people.

Something tells me this might have been her first visit, but it won’t be her last.

Kimondo Camp, from US$668 – $986 per person, per night, including full board accommodation, all house drinks, scheduled game drives, airstrip transfers, and laundry service.

The Highlands, from US$528 – $1,017 per person, per night, including full board accommodation, all house drinks, scheduled game drives, Olmoti Crater hike, Empakaai Crater hike, Maasai cultural visit, hot lunch on the Ngorongoro Crater floor, airstrip transfers, and laundry service.

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Hotel Review

Undiscovered

Chiang Mai In Chiang Mai, 137 Pillars House offers a fresh take on a popular travel destination, discovers

A

Gayatri Bhaumik.

long-time anchor of the

Inside, colonial design and 21st century touches

Southeast Asian travel

come together in one luxurious package. There

trail,

is

are teak floors, custom silk drapes by Jim

hardly an undiscovered

Thompson sporting tiny elephants, a stylish

destination. However, guests staying at 137

drinks trolley and, through sliding glass doors,

Pillars House are given a new way to explore

an expansive terrace with a plush daybed to

this northern Thai City. This year, the property

curl up on. Then there’s the bathroom, with

completed a nine-month renovation and the

its freestanding roll-top bath, indoor/outdoor

result is a sumptuous 21st century property

rainshowers, and walk-in wardrobe. At check-in

permeated by a strong sense of history, so

your personal butler’s number is entered into

there’s no better time to revisit this popular

your phone; with just a message, you can get

town.

your laundry done or afternoon tea delivered.

At the heart of 137 Pillars House Chiang Mai

If you can drag yourself out of your suite, you’ll

is an old teak house with, you guessed it, 137

find plenty to do around 137 Pillars House.

pillars. Once the residence of the manager

Enjoy an international breakfast spread or

of the East Borneo Company, the carefully

delectable Thai cuisine at the Drawing Room -

restored house now boasts an airy parlour,

the Kao Soy, a piquant curry with noodles, and

a fine-dining restaurant, and an intimate

mango and sticky rice dessert are must-tries –

bar. It also provides direct links to Chiang

or perhaps an intimate fine-dining experience

Mai’s former teak industry – the East Borneo

at Palette.

Chiang

Mai

Company traded in Thai teak.

Once you’ve eaten your fill, focus on relaxation.

Surrounding this house are the property’s

Indulge in a pampering treatment at the Nitra

manicured gardens and modern buildings that

Spa – the aromatherapy massage will send you

house 30 sumptuous suites and a spa. Every

to sleep and leave you thoroughly refreshed;

part of the hotel boasts subtle references to

play a game on the croquet lawn; or perhaps

the Company and the teak industry, and the

lounge by the infinity pool overlooked by a

suite I check into is no different – it’s one of the

towering garden wall.

property’s East Borneo suites.

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Hotel Review

NOVEMBER - DECEMBER 2019 ISSUE

27

Hotel Review As part of its revamped offerings, the hotel recently launched a Tales of the Teak Wallahs tour. Developed by long-time Chiang Mai resident Frans Betgem, a Dutch transplant, the tour traces the lives of key personalities in the local teak industry. With some meandering storytelling and only quick glimpses of certain historic buildings, not everyone will love this tour. But those with a real appreciation of history will enjoy it.

The tour starts at the ramshackle but fascinating Wat Ket Museum, which was started by Jack Bain, son of one-time company director William Bain, and has everything from historic currency and photographs to rare flags. Along the way, you’ll visit important spots like the Chiang Mai Gymkhana Club, founded by other “teak wallahs” like Louis Leonowens and David Fleming Macfie. The highlight of the tour, though, is exploring the sleepy town of Lampang in a horsedrawn vehicle. The meandering route allows plenty of time to appreciate the small-town charm in between stops at the Louis Leonowens house, the 100-year-old Forestry Department office, and Ban Sao Nak, a wellmaintained traditional wooden house dating back to 1895. You’ll come back to your hotel with a new-found understanding of the people who brought this place to life.

After the long day, you’ll need a good meal to revive your energy. You could stay on-site, but Chiang Mai has developed quite the culinary scene and it’s worth going out to explore some of the exciting restaurants and cafes that have opened in the last few years. One of the town’s premier dining destinations, David’s Kitchen offers exquisite European cuisine in a la carte menus and degustation sets, all accompanied by the strains of a live piano and convivial atmosphere.

Continue your exploration of Chiang Mai with a visit

charities; Sop Moei, which stocks arts and textiles made by the Mae

to the Patara Elephant Farm. Though elephants have

Hong Song tribe; and Vila Cini, which carries Thai silk products. Of

become a controversial topic, a visit here allows you

course, the perennially-popular bustling night market is a must-visit,

to get up-close-and-personal with these gentle giants.

if only for experiencing the atmosphere and sampling the street

During our visit, each person is paired up with an

food. Recover from the experience with a nightcap at 137 Pillars

elephant (and their carer) and spends half a day learning

House’s gentleman’s club-like Jack Bain bar.

to bathe, feed and look after their charge. Back at the property, enjoy a lavish Champagne afternoon tea in

Chiang Mai is often associated with backpackers, but 137 Pillars

the Parlour while reminiscing about your experience.

House is aiming to change that. With lavish meals, sumptuous suites, attentive service, unique tours, and a host of recommendations and

If you’re planning to stock up on souvenirs, Chiang Mai

connections, this charming boutique property allows guests to find a

also boasts plenty of interesting boutiques, and 137

lesser-known Chiang Mai.

Pillars House can point you in the right direction. On the advice of staff here, we checked out the Elephant Parade showroom which donates profits to elephant

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137 Pillars House, Chiang Mai, Thailand, https://137pillarschiangmai.com

Family Travel

Takethe Kids

FISHING

The Four Seasons Resort Langkawi makes it easier than ever to take the family for a fun day’s fishing.

I

f you were looking for a

Situated on the Resort's mile-long sweep

reason to visit Malaysia’s

of pristine coastline, the Fish House and

tropical paradise, Langkawi

its surroundings transport guests to a

Island, the Four Seasons

simpler, more relaxed era. This secluded

its

spot is where Pak Din spends his days,

own traditional fish house, where

catching the choicest fish and squid

generations-old methods are used to

offered by the Andaman Sea. Observe this

catch the freshest fish and shellfish from

local maestro as he goes about his work,

the Andaman Sea. Designed by a local

or try your hand at fishing in the olden

fisherman and crafted with island-grown

ways, using locally sourced equipment.

Resort

Langkawi has

unveiled

wood, the Rumah Ikan Fish House is an inspiring testament to Langkawi's vibrant

“I love to meet guests and share the

fishing legacy.

fishing skills my father taught me…the same skills I've passed on to my sons,”

The fishing method practised at the

says the fisherman. “My favourite part is

Fish House is a rare art, one that is fast

when people take a selfie with me – I feel

disappearing as modern, mechanised

so happy that our efforts are being seen

equipment gains popularity. It involves

and appreciated.”

creating a complex structure that extends out into the sea, using strips and splints

The Fish House at the Resort will not only

of wood. Since last year, the Resort

sustain Langkawi's indigenous fishing

has been working with Pak Din, a local

traditions but also introduce them to

fisherman, to bring back this traditional

Four Seasons guests, thus ensuring that

style of fishing.

this quiet, home-grown art lives on in minds and hearts across the world.

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29

Travel Essentials

YourBig Carry-On

W

ant to make sure you’re

getting

as

much bang for your

carry-on buck as possible? Luggage gurus Away have created The Bigger Carry-On, a modern and stylish carry-on case that has a little more room for travellers on the go. A conventional carry-on case that’s been upsized, the case is designed to fit in the overhead bins of all but the tiniest pond hoppers and comes with an internal battery that can charge smartphones up to four times. And don’t worry, with its durable polycarbonate shell, 360-degree spinner wheels and ejectable battery, it’s TSA compliant and made to last.

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Travel Essentials

Protect

I

Your Vino

f you’re headed to colder climes, ensure you pack a jacket that looks as good on the street as it does off piste. The Grayers Andrew Lightweight

Quilted Jacket is made from water-resistant nylon yet boasts a stylish corduroy-lined collar that will allow you to transition from the indoors to the great outdoors effortlessly. Available in olive and dark blue, the jacket is finished in grey contrast lining, with snap fronts and cuffs.

Lightly padded, this winter essential includes an internal pocket with a snap closure.

NOVEMBER - DECEMBER 2019 ISSUE

31

Travel Essentials

Stay Toasty

I

f you’re headed to the cabin, camping trips or boat excursions this season, don’t forget to take your Menu Baggy Winecoat, a rather curious

name for a summertime (in the southern hemisphere anyway) essential. Designed by Jakob Wagner, this stylish and durable wine bag takes away the mess and risk of glass when you’re headed off the trail. Take your box wine and insert it into the coat to keep it protected and chilled; the opening suits all standard box wine taps while a soft rubber belt ensures the coat is easy to carry. When in use the bag’s stable base makes pouring a breeze, and when you’re done, simply fold or roll the bag up for easy storage.

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