Explorer Magazine July-August 2019

PUBLISHER'S LETTER

W

elcome to another issue of Explorer, the eco-

friendly

digital

travel

magazine for true world

wanderers. In this issue we visit destinations both near and far, civil and wild. Our cover feature is South Georgia, a remarkable if not remote locale famed for its stunning wildlife. Nestled in the depths of the South Atlantic, this relatively tiny island is an adventure just to reach but once you do, you’ll be rewarded with close encounters with king penguins, fur, leopard and elephant seals and some of the world’s most beautiful bird species. From the frozen peaks of South Georgia, we jet to balmy California in search of the best family-friendly wineries from across the sunshine state. There’s also time to check in to arguably Moscow’s most luxurious hotel, the coveted Four Seasons, and to fly on one of Delta’s newest routes in our regular airline review section.

We also check out some of the top new lodges opening in Kenya, just in case you’re looking for the ultimate safari experience. Wherever you’re travelling this season, we hope Explorer continues to guide, enthuse and inspire your adventures ahead.

Safe Travels

David Leung Publisher

WORD IN PICS

Around the World & Back Again From romance on tropical isles to adventure in the poles, these are the travel images that are inspiring our travels this season.

1. The colours of autumn bring Colorado’s back country to life. Credit: Colorado Tourism 2. Photographing king penguins in South Georgia. Credit: Aurora Expeditions 3. A Kazakh hunter and his eagle. Credit: Secret Compass 4.

A safari lodge with views that truly excite.

Credit: Tucan Travel 5. Jazz has its heart in New Orleans’ music culture.

Credit: Trek America 6. Accor has announced its new Art Series hotel in Perth will be named after one of Australian street art's most influential big wall painters – Matt Adnate. Credit: Accor 7. It’s easy to find some respite at Phuket’s hidden treehouse retreat. Credit: Keemala Phuket 8. Nuptials at sunset. Credit: InterContinental Koh Samui Resort

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WORD IN PICS

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What’s Happening Pirate Festival

Cayman Islands

November 1-17, 2019 The Cayman Islands pay tribute to their heritage with this fun-filled festival dedicated to all things pirate. Expect mock invasions, parades, fireworks, street dancing, costume contests – plus happy hour food, drinks and music. The three islands – Cayman Brac, Grand Cayman and Little Cayman – each get their turn to host over three successive weekends, so you can tour the 'country' and indulge in some piratical behaviour all at the same time.

Moto GP Malaysia Kuala Lumpur

November 1-3, 2019 In this high-octane event, the world’s best motorcycle racers go head to head on one of the most challenging courses in Southeast Asia. Since 1999, the Sepang International Circuit has hosted the Malaysian leg of this race; the 5.5km track with its 15 corners is made even more challenging by Malaysia’s intense heat and humidity. This year, punters will be looking to see if Honda’s Marc Marquez can take pole position once again.

Open House New York

New York City, New York

October 19-20, 2019

For just one weekend, the greatest buildings in New York City will throw open their doors to give architecture lovers and the curious a chance to go behind the scenes at over 250 historic buildings and landmarks. Some offer insightful walking tours or require reservations, so plan ahead. This year, the New York Opera House joins a list of famous and eclectic sites like the New York Public Library, Roosevelt House and the Brooklyn Navy Yard.

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news

Aurora Announce Guest Lecturer for South Georgia Trip Polar specialists Aurora Expeditions will welcome legendary mountaineer, writer, photographer and all-round-adventure-expert, Sir Chris Bonington CBE, on the company’s voyage, March 10-31, 2021, as a guest lecturer. Sir Chris will travel on board Aurora Expeditions' brand new ship, launching in October 2019 and named after the company’s co-founder and resident mountaineering heavyweight, Greg Mortimer. Travelling south from South Georgia to Elephant Island and along the Antarctic Peninsula, the ship will follow a similar journey that Shackleton himself took over 100 years ago on board his famous vessel the Endurance. As a featured guest, Sir Chris will share his stories over the course of the days spent travelling at sea. With a lifetime of adventures

LUX* Launch Retreat Villas in the Maldives Ideally suited for travelling families, LUX* North Male Atoll has launched a series of Beach and Overwater Retreat villas, three-storey, penthousestyle villas inspired in design by James Bond. The unique configuration of the LUX* Retreats, which can accommodate up to eight guests, appeals to families and friends travelling together. The extremely private villas with their 24-hour butler service, in-villa spa treatments, unlimited laundry service and a fitness area, sauna and hammam, present the ideal spot for a celebration or a gathering. What sets these retreats apart is their immense rooftop overlooking a private infinity pool below. A first for the Maldives, residents of the LUX* Overwater Retreat can even dock their private yacht at their villa, while guests staying in the expansive LUX* Beach Retreat can enjoy their own stretch of beach. The tastefully decorated villas open onto an expanse of terrace bordering a large infinity pool and gazebo, ideal for a dinner outdoors. The jewel in the crown is the rooftop, which provides ample space for yoga, barbecues, movie-screenings, intimate, candlelit dinners with a shisha, cocktails at sunset and spectacular views of the Indian Ocean.

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and achievements, he has no shortage of material to cover and highlights will include his various attempts on the South West Face of Everest, both successful and not, his first expedition to Antarctica and the first British ascent of Mount Vinson. He will also present a screening of his multi-award-winning auto-biographical film, Bonington - Mountaineer.

Read more about remarkable South Georgia on pg 18.

news

Luxury Under Canvas If you’re looking for a new take on your next Maldivian holiday, the Fairmont Maldives Sirru Fen Fushi, has launched safari-style Jungle Tented Villas that offer guests a captivating encounter under the stars of the Indian Ocean. Located at the heart of the resort’s pint-sized tropical island, the new Tented Villas feature alfresco living spaces, outdoor rain showers, roll-top tubs, locallysourced rustic amber-tinted interiors, handmade furnishings, private plunge pools and of course, complete seclusion. Grab the kids for an al fresco film viewing on the villa’s own pop-up cinema screen; enjoy a picnic on the resort’s own ‘desert island’ or try your hand at traditional Maldivian line fishing with a local guide before heading back to your jungle abode for a private jungle BBQ of traditional Maldivian dishes. Alternatively, opt for a spa treatment in the privacy of the villa, and be seduced by the sound of the wind in the palms above.

Uniworld Arrive on the Mekong Cruise gurus Uniworld will launch its newest vessel, Super Ship Mekong Jewel, on one of Asia’s most important rivers at the beginning of next year. The new river cruiser, which will feature two dining venues, a swimming pool and all-suite accommodation, sets sail in January on 13-day itineraries that will take guests from Ho Chi Minh City to Siem Reap, with visits to Phnom Penh, Angkor Wat and more. The ship caters to just 68 guests with al fresco dining on the upper deck, more space than other Uniworld ships, and one of the highest staff-to-guest ratios on the river.

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news

Lošinj Hotels & Villas Launches Four-Day Aromatherapy Workshop Ever fancied making your own fragrances, one which caught the beauty of a new and exciting travel destination? Lošinj Hotels & Villas' award-winning Hotel Bellevue has launched a fourday, hands-on Aromatherapy Workshop Retreat, inviting guests to harness the therapeutic benefits of Lošinj's fragrant natural garden. The new retreat offers a rare glimpse into the art of essential oil distillation – from concept and inspiration, to the extraction of the oils to create unique aromatherapy products to take home. In tandem, guests can enjoy detoxifying treatments at the award-winning Bellevue Spa Clinic; prepare local gourmet delicacies using the finest Mediterranean flavours and island herbs; explore endless walking and hiking trails in the fragrant fresh air of the 'Island of Vitality'; and visit Lošinj's renowned Garden of Fine Scents.

Declared a natural health resort at the end of the 19th century by Viennese medical experts, the Croatian island of Lošinj has been recognised for its rehabilitative properties for over 120 years, notably for its unique Mediterranean microclimate and abundant untouched nature. With a professional guide, the journey begins by exploring the local pine forests of Čikat Bay to identify and pick a selection of organic herbs, learning about their exquisite aromas and natural healing properties along the way. Back in the tranquil gardens of the Bellevue Spa Clinic, participants will learn how to prepare the ingredients and extract the oils using a bespoke essential oil distilling process to create face creams, body peeling scrubs, facial masks and lip care products to take home. Discovering the therapeutic properties of the essential oils that have been hidden from the outside world for generations, guests will enjoy a detoxifying massage and aromatherapy face treatment using the homemade creams and aromatic oil blends.

The Aromatherapy journey continues into the kitchen with a cookery class using the freshest Mediterranean ingredients seasoned by the island's rich herbs and olive oil; an outdoor yoga class in the aromatic embrace of the island; and a visit to Lošinj's Garden of Fine Scents – a nursery of the island's medicinal herbs.

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AIRLINES

Delta Direct

Rosemary Behan tries out a new direct daily service between London and her new home in Portland, Oregon.

Background

70lbs or 30kg each), I was able to use the priority line in

In May 2017, Delta launched a new direct 10-hour

the combined TSA and security queue before looking for

flight between London Heathrow and Portland Oregon,

the lounge close to my gate.

allowing travellers the luxury of not having to stop on the east coast or fly up or down from San Francisco or

As befits a mostly domestic airport, the Delta lounge is

Seattle. That service, which operated four days a week

nothing special, but it did the job and was quiet. Delta

from May to October, was made daily in May this year.

One passengers travelling the other way, from London Heathrow’s Terminal 3 to Portland, have the use of the

Check-in/Boarding

far superior Virgin Clubhouse before their flight.

Three days before the flight, I received an email asking me to select a main meal from four options – a nice

Boarding was on-time at 5pm and, this being less than

touch given that even in business class cabins, popular

two weeks after the daily flight launched on May 9, is

choices can easily run out. Twenty-four hours before the

light on passengers in economy, so the doors are closed

flight, I was able to check in online. I had pre-selected

and take off is on time at 6pm, the ideal schedule for

my window seat weeks earlier.

someone on US time, allowing time for a drink, dinner, a

Portland

International

Airport,

frequently

voted

America’s best domestic airport thanks to its relatively

film and bed before midnight.

small size and user-friendliness, is low on the stress

The Cabin and Seat

scale, so after dropping my checked luggage (passengers

The plane is a Boeing 767-300ER, with 25 seats in

flying Delta One, the airline’s business class product,

business class in a 1-2-1 formation. Staff tell me the

on this route are entitled to two checked bags of up to

cabin interiors are a couple of years old and not Delta’s

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AIRLINES newest business class offering, which features partitioned ‘suites’.

Still, the business class section isn’t too large, the bathrooms are unexpectedly spacious and for one who likes a window seat, 3A is optimal being in the middle of the cabin but completely off to the side next to the window (and not the window seat where people brush past you in the aisle). There’s a full horizontal recline and plenty of legroom. The in-flight entertainment system felt basic compared to airlines such as Emirates, but there were just about enough films to watch. Getting the table out to eat involved moving the items I had piled on the side shelf, which tilts in order to get the table in and out.

Dining After take-off, I opted for a Delta Sunrise, the airline’s signature cocktail featuring gin, cranberry-apple juice and ginger ale. This was served with a mix of warm cashews, pecans, almonds and pistachios. The starter was a good trio of cold smoked tuna with

Sleep and flight The cabin was fairly quiet and with the aid of the Tumi amenity

soy mayonnaise and cucumber, a small salad, and carrot and

kit containing Kiehl’s products, eye mask and earplugs, plus comfy

ginger soup with dill crème fraiche.

pillows, I slept quite well for a few hours. The flight was extremely smooth and confident announcements from the flight deck were

My main course, bourbon-grilled cedar plank salmon with

appreciated.

potatoes and green beans, was impressive, and the white wine, a South African Chenin Blanc, worked well. For dessert, I opted for the cheese plate with a glass of Cabernet Sauvignon from

Arrival We landed slightly early at midday, and, once through immigration

Washington State. The desserts came down the aisle on an

and baggage, I proceeded to the Virgin Atlantic Revivals Lounge

elegant dessert trolley and it was hard to choose between them.

next to the arrivals hall (helpfully, Delta had sent an email before

Service

my flight and handed me a flyer on the flight, telling me exactly what facilities I was entitled to use on each leg). While not

I was served by a very kind, methodical and obliging female staff

comparable to the Virgin Atlantic Clubhouse, the Revivals Lounge

member who one wishes was on every flight (alas, that wasn’t

is still a great feature, offering free 15-minute spa treatments,

the case on my return leg). Staff at the gate were also polite and

showers, an extensive range of non-alcoholic and alcoholic drinks,

addressed passengers by name, and we were thanked individually

newspapers and, if only I’d been hungry, a full English breakfast.

for our business towards the end of the flight. Limited free WiFi, including iMessage, Facebook Messenger and WhatsApp is available, though I didn’t use it and had trouble connecting on the return leg.

Fly Delta between Portland Oregon and London Heathrow from US$770 return in economy and US$3,010 in business class. www.delta.com

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hotel review

Outside

the Square When it comes to city hotels, especially ones in iconic capitals, location is everything.

Fortunately, the stunning Four Seasons Moscow has one of the best locations in the Russian city, and much more besides, discovers Nick Walton.

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hotel review

First Impressions You know you’re arriving somewhere special when the little blue dot on your Google Maps keeps edging closer to Red Square and The Kremlin. My hotel limo slides through the late afternoon traffic, spring sunshine painting the city’s historic centre in gold as we draw closer. One of the most special aspects of the Four Seasons Moscow, a hotel that has a lot going for it, is its coveted location, just a short walk from all of the major attractions that draw travellers to the Russian capital, including the State Duma, Red Square, St Basil’s Cathedral and the Bolshoi Theatre. Close enough to be convenient and yet far enough to avoid the crowds, the hotel is an ideal base of operations from which to explore the city. Housed in the former Soviet-era Hotel Moskva (famed for having two facades after Stalin approved both and architects were reluctant to choose one), the Four Seasons combines touches of Russia past and present, with an east-meets-west aesthetic, world-class dining, cavernous guest rooms and suites, marble-lined public spaces, and one of the city’s most indulgent spas.

Accommodations While you’re staying in a historic building, a multi-million-dollar reconstruction ensures you’ll want for nothing during your time in the capital. Guest rooms and suites have a refined, residential feel to them, which makes you feel like you’re rubbing shoulders with the oligarchs who also call the city centre home. Many boast floor-to-ceiling windows, doors which open to private balconies, and art salvaged from the original Soviet-era edifice. My Deluxe Room, among the largest in the city, features a sprawling king-sized bed, a workspace and walk-in closet. The bathroom is the size of a conventional guest room anywhere else, and wreaths a deep soak tub, perfect for those chilly Moscow winter evenings.

Dressed in deep blue, gold and burgundy, each room is the ultimate respite from the bustle of the city below.

However, if you’re set on living like a Tsar you can always check into the Pozharsky Royal Suite, with its private terrace looking towards the Kremlin, private dining room, masaic-lined soak tub, and private sauna.

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hotel review Wining & Dining In addition to being a place for travellers to rest their heads, the Four Seasons Moscow is also a culinary and entertaining hub for the city’s elite. Make a beeline for the Silk Lounge, just off the marble-lined lobby, where classic Russian dishes and barista coffee are served. For something a little headier, make for the Moskovsky Bar, home to 30 types of Siberian honey, which are incorporated into classic and contemporary cocktails by one of the city’s best bar teams.

Top tipples include the Rowanberry Cosmopolitan, with vodka, local rowanberries, cranberry and Russian berry liqueur; the Tarragon Fizz, with vodka, tarragon from the Far East, lime and dry vermouth; the inspiring Horseradish Sour, with bourbon, fresh horseradish, Siberian honey and blackcurrant foam; and the bar’s own take on the Moscow Mule, including a secret ingredient.

When summer hits the city, the place to be is the hotel’s sun-kissed Summer Terrace, where aperitifs are served before guests head indoors to Quadrum, the hotel’s Italian fine-dining restaurant, where dishes are laced with the likes of saffron, guinea fowl and Caspian caviar. Signatures to look out for include the sautéed clams aglio and olio with grilled bruschetta; Amatriciana-style mezze maniche with fresh tuna; baby piglet glazed with lemon confit and caramelised white chicory; and Yamal deer fillet with chestnuts and red radicchio braised in Barolo wine.

For elegant breakfasts that linger, Bystro is the spot, with iconic Russian fare on offer, while the Amnis Café, set within the hotel’s expansive spa, serves fresh juices and healthy snacks poolside.

Wellness The Four Seasons Moscow boasts one of the largest hotel spas in Russia, with 17 sumptuous spa suites, a sun-lit indoor swimming pool, a host of classes on offer for the active, and a menu of indulgent treatments that include 24-carat gold and diamonds. The Banyan Experience

by Natura Siberica uses natural products packed with ingredients from Siberia including healing mud, berries and traditional herbs during an authentic Russian bathing experience; while the Royal Four Hands Massage, performed by two therapists, features long, firm strokes that loosen muscles and harmonise mind and spirit.

Four Seasons Moscow, 2 Okhotny Ryad, Moscow, Russian Federation; +7 (499) 277 71 11; www.fourseasons.com

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Africa

Kenya’s

BestNewSafariCamps

Kenya has been able to remain a must-visit safari destination for decades thanks to its iconic national parks and game reserves, and the irresistible drawcard that is the Great Wildebeest Migration. On top of that, this year Kenya will see a host of exciting new safari camps opening – here are some of our favourites.

Mugie House This is the latest go-to address in the Governor's Camp Collection and is situated on a private 207-square-kilometre conservancy within the fabled Laikipia County. Originally dating from the 1980s, Mugie House is currently undergoing extensive renovations in order to be ready for its October 2019 opening.

convey the romance and beauty of Kenya at first glance, while early reports on the local game are suggesting that it is prolific.

Loisaba Lodo Springs With just eight individual tented guest rooms, Loisaba Lodo Springs is another new luxury safari lodge in Kenya that puts a premium on privacy. That said, it's situated in a high-traffic area – if you count

From its position on a ridge, Mugie House and the nine guest

migrating elephants as 'traffic'. The lodge is situated in the Loisaba

cottages overlook a waterhole which is consistently popular with

Conservancy, a private protected area of some 23,067 hectares

local wildlife (including big cats). This new luxury property offers

within an important migratory corridor for these amazing animals.

the opportunity to enjoy moments of relaxation like afternoon

Loisaba is also vital to the future of lions, wild dogs and the little-

tea as tropical birds flit around the gardens. Equally, more active

known but hugely impressive Grévy's zebra.

pursuits including canoeing on the large dam that forms the focal point of the conservancy.

Mara Nyika Mara Nyika is the latest offering from Great Plains and combines

With views extending all the way to the jagged, snow-capped magnificence of Mount Kenya, this area really does feel like the epicentre of the safari world.

delightful privacy with the expansive backdrop of the private

Sarara Reteti House

Naboisho Conservancy. Game drives also enter the Masai Mara,

Sarara Reteti House is only due to open in early 2020, but from

but there is more than enough wildlife in the conservancy to justify

what we're hearing it will certainly be worth the wait! Designed

this being the focus of each guest's stay.

for exclusive-use bookings, this seven-bedroom safari house will be designed with family and multi-generational travel in mind.

Mara Nyika is due to open in August 2019, but its design is such

Scenically and culturally distinct, northern Kenya is generally drier

a wonderful distillation of all that is best about the Kenyan safari

than the rest of the country. This serves to concentrate wildlife

experience that it will have a timeless quality to it. Light canvas

around rivers and other sources of water, and the Samburu region

tents under immediately recognisable flat-topped thorn trees

is known for its elephant herds.

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South Georgia

Eden ofthe

Atlantic Nick Walton braves the tumultuous seas and the

wicked winds of the South Atlantic to discover one of the world’s most remarkable wildlife destinations.

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South Georgia

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South Georgia

E

plans

the world’s most precocious seas doesn’t exactly

sometimes go amiss. It’s the

appeal, this is the nature of expedition cruising, and

mantra of every well-travelled

few itineraries that I’ve taken, including previous

ven

the

best

laid

adventurer, and early into my

cruises with Canadian polar specialists OneOcean,

journey south from the Falkland Islands to remote

who are operating this unique adventure, have gone

South Georgia it’s apparent that something has

exactly as planned - it’s all just part of the adventure.

gone wrong.

However, it’s indicative of how unique South

Rumours have a habit of spreading through ships

Georgia is as a destination, and how sought-after it

like wildfire, so by the time my fellow guests

is among a strapping breed of silver-haired would-be

and I assemble in the bar lounge of the sturdy

adventurer, that some passengers quickly become

90-passenger Akademik Sergey Vavilov expedition

irate, led in their huffing and puffing by two British

ship, most passengers have a sense that our 15-

lawyers, who we promptly nickname the ‘Walrus’

day voyage to the South Atlantic has gotten off to a

and the ‘Badger’. The Walrus is affronted by the

rocky start. Seasoned expedition leader Boris Wise

mechanical fault, and bellows conspiracy theories,

confirms the details; one of the ship’s two propellers

trying to rally support from a company of somnolent

isn’t behaving as it should, an issue that was only

Swedes, while the Badger stumbles over concerns

discovered after we departed Stanley. He confirms,

that for the second time he will miss important

in his charming, calming Canadian way, that this will

landings, after a previous cruise was affected by

reduce our speed by 30 percent and throw our plans

severe weather. Boris takes the heated discussion

to circumnavigate one of the most remote islands

in his stride and promises us his best efforts as we

on the planet into disarray.

steam south into the night.

I’m not particularly fussed. While the idea of

The Frank Sinatra song I Get a Kick Out of You comes

additional days spent battling it out with some of

to mind when I think of our destination. South

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South Georgia Georgia is for people who no longer get kicks from Antarctica, and when the likes of Svalbard doesn’t thrill them at all. Windswept, wild, and at the mercy of the elements, it’s adventure cruising at its best.

“If you were to take a giant carving knife, slice along beneath one of the highest mountain ridges of Switzerland, just where the huge glaciers tumble into the valley below, and then drop your slice of mountain, dripping with sugar-icing, into the sea, I think you would get a fair idea of the place,” described acclaimed ornithologist Niall Rankin in 1946. Inhospitable, remote, and subsequently rarely visited (even compared to Antarctica, 1,000km to the south), South Georgia is a crucial lifeboat for the many ocean species that require land on which to breed and rear their young. Over two million king penguins call the island their summer home and are joined by hundreds of thousands of elephant and fur seals, and countless sea birds. Think of it as a frozen Galapagos on steroids.

Dissent continues as we putter along through

snow petrels and illusive wandering albatrosses

towering swells over the next few days, but it

that escort the ship south. The authentic and

does little to dull my enthusiasm as we select wet

controversial seal skin suit the Walrus sports has

weather gear, lean how to board the ship’s zodiacs,

tongues wagging across the ship.

and attend lectures by resident photographers and naturalists on South Georgia’s unique ecosystems.

Moods are lifted with the first sight of land - the

The journey has been billed as a ‘Photographic

Shag Rocks - jagged shards of ancient mountaintop

Symposium’ by OneOcean, which makes sense in a

upon which great waves heave themselves with a

destination coveted by wildlife shooters, including

roar that can be heard kilometres away. By morning

both the Walrus and the Badger, who prowl the

we’ve arrived in the relative shelter of King Haakon

decks with ice-flecked whiskers and long lenses,

Bay, a deep-set cove wreathed by glaciers on South

hoping to snap pictures of the dexterous storm and

Georgia’s north west flank made famous by Sir Ernest Shackleton, who landed here in 1916 after escaping the ice during his ill-fated Imperial TransAntarctic Expedition. It’s a breathtaking first glimpse of South Georgia, with towering peaks playing hideand-seek among silver clouds, and grey petrels swooping low over a frozen beach populated by snorting, grumbling Southern elephant seals.

Of all the remarkable wildlife that seduces travellers so far south, these huge seals are a massive drawcard.

Mothers nurse their new arrivals, jet black, baying woolly little pups with huge glassy eyes, while their fathers jealously guard their harems from potential Lotharios. Life as a male elephant seal isn’t easy; male bulls - or “beachmasters” – can weigh in at four tons and each patrols a spot on the beach the size

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South Georgia

of a studio apartment. During summer, when the

approach the penguin chicks, who are patiently

beach is packed with elephant seals, young males

waiting for their parents to return after months

must run a gauntlet of territorial males. Fights often

feeding in the Atlantic. The adorable little furballs

erupt with a symphony of deep roars that ricochet

are more inquisitive than cautious and I’m soon

off the cliffs, accompanied by great plumes of steam

surrounded by chirping, singing penguins hoping I

as males slam into each other like staggering drunks

might have a spare mackerel in my backpack. That

and cling to flesh with their few sharp teeth.

afternoon, when the sun finally bullies its way through the canopy, we celebrate the beauty of our

Things in the engine room haven’t improved, and

destination at Royal Bay, sailing along the base of

that night Boris makes the bold decision to flip

the spectacular Ross Glacier, a towering wall of vivid

the itinerary on its head so that we travel counter-

blue ice that climbs the ancient valley into peaks

clockwise around South Georgia, avoiding the

topped with brilliant snowcaps.

strong winds coming in from the east and using our time wisely. The Walrus, the Badger and a small

St Andrews is a coveted destination for South

posse they’ve assembled demand compensation

Georgia-bound travellers and our landing here,

and grumble into their hot chocolates.

on a wide, flat beach backed by low hills, almost brings a smile to the Badger’s face. Here, among

Boris’ move pays off, and after enjoying a calm night

the 150,000 king penguins of an almost year-

cruising in the lee of the island, we arrive at Gold

round colony, we’re guided through the specialist

Harbour (named for the ‘fool’s gold’ or iron pyrites

techniques of wildlife photography by Gerhard

found here), on South Georgia’s south eastern tip.

“Guts” Swanepoel, a South African naturalist with

The sun struggles to penetrate thick cloud cover

his own photographic safari business in southern

and cast light on a landscape of high cliffs tumbling

Africa. While many of the “resident photographers”

down to hills of Arctic heather and a wide, open

disappear at each landing to fill their own Getty’s

beach.

portfolios, leaving passengers in their wake, Guts sticks with the group, giving suggestions on

We hear (and smell) the king penguins well before

alternative compositions, shutter speeds and ISO

we can distinguish individual animals. The colony

with infinite patience and humour. He’s a saving

stretches far down the beach, literally tens of

grace for many guests who had signed up for the

thousands of birds, those still in their winter down

trip with hearts set on returning home with their

resembling furry rugby balls, the rest resplendent

own images of this majestic landscape.

in their yellow-accented tuxedos. They huddle together, a cacophony of sound as they gossip en

That afternoon there’s time to delve into man’s often

masse.

destructive role on South Georgia. While the island is now fiercely protected, it wasn’t long after South

They’re not alone. More elephant seals wallow

Georgia’s discovery that sealers and whalers arrived

in the surf line or roar and joust on the beach; a

from Europe, killing a total of 175,250 whales at

sleek leopard seal patrols off shore; shy but feisty

stations like Grytviken, the rusted remains of which

fur seals hide in the emerald tussock of the dunes;

lie at the end of a deep inlet. Here, we pause for

opportunistic brown skuas glide just above the

a moment to toast the bravery and resolution of

penguin colony, looking for weak chicks; and stealth

“The Boss”, Sir Ernest Shackleton, at his final resting

bomber-like white-chinned petrels soar effortlessly

place overlooking the bay, before joining scientists

on the sea breeze that whips across this enthralling

from the nearby British Antarctic Survey base, the

landscape.

only people to live on South Georgia, to explore the hulking hulls of whaling ships and the beautifully-

With guidance from the ship’s naturalists, we gently

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preserved egg yolk-yellow Whalers’ Church.

South Georgia

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South Georgia

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South Georgia

The ship’s many avid birders have their moment one chilly morning at Prion Island, a lonely, weather whipped rock in the Bay of Isles that’s a rat-free sanctuary for albatrosses.

Special permission is required to visit this vital reserve and we’re rewarded with spectacular displays of aerial acrobatics as black-browed, grey-headed and light-mantle albatrosses join giant, storm and cape petrels in soaring over the undulating landscape at breathtaking speed. A ‘waddle’ of Gentoo penguins watches, seemingly amused, as the Walrus lies on the beach in his seal suit to get a photo. Many of us are half expecting an opportunistic orca to mistake him for an easy breakfast.

Despite the mechanical issues (and the grumblings they cause), we’ve managed to land at all of South Georgia’s top destinations, a miracle in itself, but Boris has left possibly the best for last and we arrive at Salisbury Plain in the afternoon, amber light bathing this vast penguin rookery in gold. It’s a spectacular last glimpse of the island, a vast plain populated by 60,000 king penguin chicks, snow covered Pyramid Peak towering over the bay behind, and I rest my camera gear beside a trio of inquisitive rug rats to soak up this unforgettable sight before the four-day crossing back to civilisation.

Chances are, if the prop hadn’t malfunctioned, the high winds and foul weather of earlier in the week would have made landing at many of the east coast sites impossible, so I raise my thermos and give a toast to Mother Nature, to OneOcean’s expert crew, and to the blissful unpredictability of travel in the world’s farthest flung corners.

Fly: American Airlines from Hong Kong to Punta Arenas via Dallas. www.aa.com

Cruise: OneOcean’s next South Georgia in-Depth Photography Symposium is November 7-21, 2019 aboard the line’s new RCGS Resolute, from US$13,195 per person, twin share. www.oneoceanexpeditions.com

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California

California’s

BEST FAMILYFRIENDLY WINERIES

W

hile some people visit Californian wineries for much-needed ‘grown-up’ time in one of the world's most beautiful wine regions, many parents prefer to travel and

taste with their little ones in tow. This has increasingly become the trend, according to the Wine Institute, inspiring many of the state's wineries to offer special accommodations for kids, including grape juice tastings, play areas, visits with farm animals and outdoor games.

These activities keep children happy and engaged while their parents sample the latest vintages.

The key to a successful and fun family outing in California's wine country is to call ahead or check the producer's website to see if kids are welcome. For reasons of liability or preference, some wineries do not allow guests under age 21. If the winery does allow minors, kids are permitted to join their parents in the winery and can often take part in winery tours. Here are some of the most family-friendly wineries travelling oenophiles shouldn’t miss.

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California

ACORN Winery/Alegria Vineyards, Healdsburg, Sonoma County

Alpha Omega, St. Helena, Napa Valley

Lego, crayons and cornhole keep kids entertained while

Valley with Traveler Teddies’, a kid-friendly guide to the

parents taste. Children may also explore the vineyards

Napa Valley, presented with a box of crayons.

The winery offers the colouring book, ‘Exploring the Napa

adjacent to the tasting room, join parents on a guided vineyard walk and taste grapes during harvest.

Alexander Valley Vineyards, Healdsburg, Sonoma County

Austin Hope & Treana Tasting Cellar, Paso Robles, San Luis Obispo County While parents enjoy a glass or a bottle outside overlooking

Kids can join in winery and cave tours with their parents,

the vineyards, children are invited to play cornhole or

visit the vineyards and enjoy the winery's picnic area.

giant Jenga.

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California

  Benziger Family Winery, Glen Ellen, Sonoma County A 45-minute educational tram tour showcases the winery's Biodynamic vineyards, caves and insect-friendly gardens, making this a family must.

Buena Vista Winery, Sonoma, Sonoma County Tours led by period actors include wine caves and the Historic Wine Museum, which features an entertaining multi-media show. There's also a picnic area and hedge maze to keep the little ones busy.

Buttonwood Winery, Solvang, Santa Barbara County Explore the large fruit tree orchard and picnic areas or visit the estate farm animals.

Captain Vineyards, Moraga, Contra Costa County Tour the first green, sustainable, dry farmed vineyard and winery in the Lamorinda AVA, which offers a 4-H programme for middle and high schools through the University of California at Davis.

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California

Castello di Amorosa, Calistoga, Napa Valley

Kendall-Jackson Wine Estate, Fulton, Sonoma County

Tour a massive replica of an Italian castle,

Kids can taste grape juice and tour the

complete with a dungeon, then meet the

extensive

estate peacocks and farm animals. Kids can

includes a chicken coop, bat boxes and a

sample grape juice and enjoy their own play

demonstration beehive.

area.

Castoro Cellars, Templeton, San Luis Obispo County

vegetable

garden,

which

Raymond Vineyards, St. Helena, Napa Valley The outdoor Theater of Nature showcases how all of nature's ‘actors’—including

Games for kids include cornhole, giant

chickens and goats—play a crucial part in

Jenga and disc golf.

crafting quality wine, from the soil to the

Francis Ford Coppola Winery, Geyserville, Sonoma County

vineyards.

Coveted by wine lovers, Coppola welcomes

Truett-Hurst Winery, Healdsburg, Sonoma County

families with a large swimming pool, bocce

Families are free to roam the working farm,

ball court, children's library, board games

which features goats, chickens and sheep.

and more.

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Travel Essentials

Shut the World Out

I

deal for travellers looking for a touch of solace on the road, the new Sony WF-1000XM3 noisecancelling earphones feature the new HD

Noise Cancelling Processor QN1e chip and dual noise sensor technology, which delivers exceptional noise cancelling performance.

With

one

feed-forward

microphone and one feed-back microphone on the surface of the earbuds, the new Sony earbuds catch more of the ambient sound around you, which is then countered with an inverted sound wave to offset bothersome background noise. The new chip not only cancels more noise across almost all frequencies but also uses less power. Anything ranging from annoying aircraft cabin noise, to hustle and bustle on the city streets, is dramatically cancelled by the buds – so it’s all about the music.

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Travel Essentials

Pint-Sized Power

T

he new Hasselblad X1D medium format camera, new zoom lens and new digital platform have upped the image ante for travel photography. Hasselblad got

the world’s attention when it unveiled the original X1D last year. A

medium format powerhouse in a body the size of an entry-level DSLR, the camera was quickly adopted by professionals and cashed up amateurs looking for the ultimate precision and image quality. The German camera company has now created the next instalment of the X System – the X1D II 50C Mirrorless Medium Format Digital Camera.

Dedicated to optimising the X System for a wider audience of creatives, Hasselblad has improved upon the first generation with enhanced electronics for a quicker and more intuitive medium format experience. Its large, high resolution 50-megapixel CMOS sensor (43.8 x 32.9 mm) is 1.7 times larger than 35mm full format sensors, packing in huge pixels for capturing images with superb tonality. With outstanding colour depth and an impressive dynamic range of 14 stops, which allows for capturing immense details in both shadows and highlights, the photographer is left with plenty of room for adjustment in post-processing.

In addition, Hasselblad has released the ninth addition to the X System lens range, the XCD 3,5-4,5/35-75 Zoom Lens. Delivering the same superb image quality from edge-to-edge as the XCD prime lenses, this extremely high performance, compact mid-range zoom covers moderate wide angle to short telephoto focal lengths. Its internal focusing keeps the lens’ dimensions constant, delivers quick autofocus and additionally keeps the overall weight down, making it a perfect travel companion.

You’ll also be able to edit images on the go with the Phocus Mobile 2. Compatible with the X1D II 50C via either USB-C or Wi-Fi, this application enables the travelling photographer to have a quicker, more mobile workflow. With Phocus Mobile 2, users can import, edit and rate RAW images and import and rate full quality JPEG images directly on their portable device. In addition, Phocus Mobile 2 supports full quality image export, tethered shooting and direct camera control.

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Travel Essentials

Power on the Go

T

ravelling today is so convenient, in part thanks to all the great gadgetry we take on the road with us. However, there’s one drawback – they all need to be powered

up at some stage and that’s not always convenient at all. Solving that dilemma is the TYLT Powerbag Travel Battery Charging Backpack, a savvy travel carry-on that features a built in 10,400mAh battery that can charge three devices at once. With multiple water-resistant deep zipper pockets, cord routing anchors to organise cables, and a padded tablet or computer compartment this is an essential bit of travel kit for all traveller profiles. Padded shoulder straps make carrying a load easier, while anti-theft RFID protection keep your identity safe. The bag is TSA approved, and comes with a one-year warranty.

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