Jetsetter Autumn 2019

Discover Myanmar’s authentic and mesmerizing beauty aboard The Strand Cruise, a luxury river cruiser sailing the mythical Ayeyarwady River offering two-, three- and four-night itineraries between the ancient cities of Mandalay and Bagan – recently listed World Heritage by UNESCO. Until end of December 2019, enjoy 15% off all cruises when reserving your journey with the code GLAM.

From kings to modern day artists, the Ayeyarwady River continues to astonish and inspire those who come across its path.

THESTRANDCRUISE.COM AYEYARWADY RIVER CAPTAIN@THESTRANDCRUISE.COM @THESTRANDCRUISE

真生活， 从 我这 的里 家开 ，始 ， 千 千禧 禧公 公寓 寓。 。 Good life with This is mystarts home.

Millennium Residences@Beijing Fortune Plaza.

Millennium Residences@Beijing Fortune Plaza.

Apartment Enquiry Hotline: +86-10-8588-2888 Building Number 6, Fortune Plaza, 7 DongSanHuan DongSanHuan Middle Middle Road, Road, Chaoyang ChaoyangDistrict, District,Beijing, Beijing,PR PRChina China Tel: +86-10-8588-2888 Fax: +86-10-8588-2889 Email: leasing@millenniumresidencesbeijing.com www.millenniumresidencesbeijing.com www.millenniumresidencesbeijing.com

真生活， 从这里开始， 千禧公寓。 Good life starts with Millennium Residences@Beijing Fortune Plaza.

Apartment Enquiry Hotline: +86-10-8588-2888 Building Number 6, Fortune Plaza, 7 DongSanHuan Middle Road, Chaoyang District, Beijing, PR China Tel: +86-10-8588-2888 Fax: +86-10-8588-2889 Email: leasing@millenniumresidencesbeijing.com www.millenniumresidencesbeijing.com

ADULTS’ ESCAPE A 5-Star, adults only island boasting a breathtaking undersea restaurant, a beautiful beach and some of the best snorkelling and diving in the Maldives. Stylish villas, restaurants, bars, combined with superb service makes this island paradise your best choice for an unforgettable holiday.

Hurawalhi Island Resort . Tel +960 662 2000 . reservations@hurawalhi.com . hurawalhi.com

FREEDOM REIMAGINED An authentic tropical expression of anything, anytime, anywhere.

Kudadoo Private Island . Tel +960 662 2000 . info@kudadoo.com . reservations@kudadoo.com . kudadoo.com

Editor's Note Denis Fahy

denis@jetsetter-magazine.com Publisher

Helen Dalley

helen.dalley@jetsetter-magazine.com Managing Editor

Nick Walton

Contributing Editor

Jean Sicard

jean.sicard@jetsetter-magazine.com Reporter

Don Pierre Riosa

don@jetsetter-magazine.com Art Director

Paul Lo

paul.lo@jetsetter-magazine.com General Manager (Shanghai)

Tammy Fong

tammy@jetsetter-magazine.com Travel Industry Relationship Director

Fatima Cameira

fatima@jetsetter-magazine.com Marketing Director

Laurence James

laurence.james@jetsetter-magazine.com Chief Representative Europe

Darryl Scott

d.scott@jetsetter-magazine.com Advertising Director JETSETTER is registered as a newspaper & periodical.

JETSETTER is published by Jetsetter Ltd

Helen Dalley Managing Editor

Graeme Green

(graeme-green.com) is a journalist, travel writer and photographer for publications including The Sunday Times, The Guardian, Digital Camera Magazine, Robb Report and more. He covers a range of subjects, including human rights, wildlife conservation, music, food and drink, and adventure travel. He is well acquainted with Mexico, having lived and worked there. Turn to page p88 to read Graeme’s account of his road trip through the Mexican state of Baja California.

Denis Fahy,

Jetsetter’s publisher, has been based in Hong Kong since 1988, and established Jetsetter in 2009. In this issue, he reviews the United Polaris business class service from Hong Kong to Newark – find out more on p104. He also reports on the glittering delights of one of Manhattan’s most esteemed addresses, Baccarat New York. Get the low-down on this dazzling accommodation on p72.

JETSETTER is printed by Jetsetter Ltd Suite A:14/F Bangkok Bank Building, 28 Des Voeux Rd, Central, Hong Kong Level 20 HKRI Centre Tower 2 288 Shimen 1st Road, Jing'an District, Shanghai, China 200041 616 Corporate Way, Suite 2-5706 Valley Cottage, NY 10989 USA Tel +852 28557885

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All rights Reserved: Copyright and distribution rights are reserved exclusively for Jetsetter Ltd, their partners, associates and affiliates. All materials published remain the property of the publisher. No part of this publication may be reproduced without prior written permission. All information contained in this publication is from a reliable source. Jetsetter Ltd does not make any guarantees to the accuracy of the information contained.

Contents (AUTUMN 2019) Trafalgar

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60 Graeme Green

78

88

42 City Guide

86 Insider

108 In The Kitchen

Familiarise yourself with the city’s therapeutic hot springs, hair-rising hikes and heavenly high teas

The CEO of bespoke travel agency Up Norway, Torunn Tronsvang says there’s much more to the country than fjords and salmon

Renowned for his authentic Italian fare, the British chef Theo Randall shares his cooking philosophy

Three takes on Taipei

60 Feature

Budapest Bound

The Hungarian capital is a seductive mix of hip hangouts and fabulous architecture, says Helen Dalley

72 Hotel Review

A glittering stay

A hotel that pays homage to the iconic French crystal brand, Baccarat New York is just as more dazzling as you’d expect, as Denis Fahy discovers

78 Feature

Slowing down in Cyprus

Helen Dalley visits the sunny Mediterranean isle of Cyprus for some chilled-out fun in the sun

The many charms of Norway

88 Feature

Cruising the Pacific Coast

Join Graeme Green behind the wheel on an exhilarating coastal road trip through the magical Mexican state of Baja California

Italian flavour

114 Bar review

A secret space in London

Sublime cocktails and superb snacks at the Berkeley’s new bar and terrace

100 Road Warrior

American Wanderings

What does it take to hike great distances at breakneck speed across the US? We ask super hiker Andrew Skurka

104 Turning Left

All aboard the Dreamliner

Denis Fahy reclines into the United Polaris business class from Hong Kong to New York

Cover image of Budapest courtesy of Scenic

Diary Davis Cup Finals Madrid, Spain 18-24 November

The premier international team event in men’s tennis, this annual event sees teams from competing countries battle it out in a knock-out format. Current champions Croatia, who netted a 3-1 win over France, will be looking to hold their nerve against teams that have traditionally done well here, like the US and Australia. There’s usually plenty of big hitters in action at the event, and 2019 is no exception: Djokovic will be playing for Serbia, Nadal for Spain, and Andy Murray is hoping he’ll be fit enough to make the grade. daviscup.com Where to stay: The official hotel sponsor of the event, VP Plaza Espana Design, has good room options, including the superior with terrace, and the superior with fitness area, with a corner of the room decked out with fitness equipment. plazaespana-hotel.com

Oktoberfest

Munich, Germany 21 September-6 October

Sydney International Art Series Sydney, Australia 2 November 2019-16 February 2020

While every big city worth its salt now hosts an Oktoberfest event, there’s something special about celebrating the event in Munich, where the event originates from, following the marriage of King Ludwig in 1810. The event is bookended by an opening parade to the traditional gun salutes by the Bavaria statue.

In-between, you can visit the large and small tents serving beer from six Munich breweries including Lowenbrau, Hofbrau & Paulaner, ride the Willenborg ferris wheel… and admire the traditional Oktoberfest costume of dirndls and lederhosen. oktoberfest.de Where to stay: Located in the old town around a mile away from the Oktoberfest site, Beyond By Giesel offers sumptuously appointed rooms and suites with views of the Munich Town Hall and Rindermarkt Square. beyond-muc.de

The Sydney International Art Series (SIAS) brings extraordinary art to Sydney through two blockbuster exhibitions annually. The 2019-2020 season will feature Japan Supernatural at the Art Gallery of NSW (2 November-8 March) and Cornelia Parker at the Museum of Contemporary Art Australia (8 November-16 February).

Japan Supernatural will celebrate the wildly imaginative spirit world of Japanese art through more than 180 works, while Cornelia Parker will see the British artist transform everyday objects into explosive installations, sculptures, drawings and films. Purchase a Sydney International Art Pass to see both exhibitions and save 20 per cent. artpass.com.au Where to stay: Located in the CBD, Sheraton Grand Sydney Hyde Park offers great park vistas from the outdoor terrace of its Conservatory Bar alongside tapas and an extensive wine list. sheraton.com

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2 8 W 5 3 R D S T R E E T, N E W YO R K , N Y 1 0 0 1 9

Diary Patek Philippe Watch Art Grand Exhibition

Marina Bay Sands, Singapore 28 September-13 October

London Cocktail Week Various locations, London 4-13 October

Drink your way round the British capital with London Cocktail Week, a nine-day long event that encourages drinkers to step out of their comfort zone and sample more unusual mixes. Bars from Battersea to Islington will be getting involved, but the hub of the event will be the London Cocktail Village on Brick Lane, where more pop-up bars, masterclasses and DJs will be in situ. drinkup.london.com Where to stay: Stay close to the event hub by booking a room at boutique hotel Batty Langley’s in Shoreditch, where antique furniture, heavy silk curtains and quirky bathrooms await. Each room has an Apple TV, while breakfast includes Brick Lane’s famous beigels. battylangleys.com

After holding successful shows in Dubai (2012) Munich (2013), London (2015) and New York (2017), Patek Philippe has chosen Singapore as the city to host its fifth grand exhibition from 28 September-13 October. Held at Marina Bay Sands, the event will offer in-depth insights into the Patek universe and its breathtaking creations.

Collectors, aficionados of watchmaking artistry and the general public alike can immerse themselves in the world of Patek Philippe as if they were visiting the historic salons on Rue du Rhone in Geneva, the manufacture in Plan-les-Ouates, or the Patek Philippe Museum. Expect to encounter limited special edition watches and an important collection of rare handcrafted timepieces inspired by the cultural and artistic expressions of Southeast Asia. patek.com

Renowned for its challenging track, which includes tight hairpins, the Macao Grand Prix is one of the most exhilarating races on the Formula 3 calendar – and a great place to spot up-and-coming talent, as Lewis Hamilton and Michael Schumacher have both raced here. But it’s not just F3 cars that will be racing around the Guia circuit: there’s also five other races, including Macau Motorcycle Grand Prix and the Macau Touring Car Cup. macau.grandprix.gov.mo

Where to stay: As the exhibition is being held at Marina Bay Sands, it makes sense to stay there: don’t forget to check out the Skypark Observation Deck for sublime Singapore views, or take a dip in the iconic infinity pool if you haven’t done so yet. marinabaysands.com

Where to stay: One of the best places to take in the action is the Grand Lapa Hotel, where guests can witness all the thrilling twists and turns of the race from the hotel’s Friendship Terrace on the fifth floor. Direct booking privileges through the hotel website with room accommodation and all-day access to the Grand Prix BBQ Buffet is available from MOP3,799. grandlapa.com

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Macao Grand Prix

Macao, China 16 & 17 November

Room With A View

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Room With A View

A FORTRESS OF CALM

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n ancient fortress located in a secluded corner of the Bay of Palma on the isle of Majorca, the grand architectural complex of Cap Rocat certainly looks the part but it was never actually employed as a defence structure. Declared a heritage asset and listed as a national monument, the structure was respectfully transformed into a hotel by the architect Antonio Obrador, and seamlessly blends into the landscape of this Protected Natural Area, which has access to the waters of the marine reserve of the Bay of Palma, an area renowned for its posidonia meadows and biodiversity.

The best views at Cap Rocat arguably await in the Sentinels (yes, it’s a type of room), the watchtowers that edge the cliffs where the cannons were once hidden. Their marble floors, rough-hewn stone walls and wooden ceilings are all designed to fade into the background so the jagged rocks and superb sea views can take centre stage. Sentinel rooms have two bathrooms (one with a shower and the other with a bath) with mirrored doors so that you can always see the reflection of the sea, while the bed’s position in the centre of the room affords great ocean views.

As the sun dips down over the Mediterranean and the light suffuses the glorious sandstone structure in which the room is housed, you might just be inspired to step down into the infinity pool carved into the side of the cliff and catch the last rays of the sun, or simply take it all in the view from the daybed or sun lounger on the balcony over a glass of good local wine, like Prensal or Malvasia. After a sundowner, get spruced up and pull up a chair at La Forteleza for local specialities like stuffed squid against a backdrop of Spanish guitar. caprocat.com

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REIGNING OVER

SHANGHAI

An esteemed landmark of Shanghai, Wanda Reign on the Bund sets new standards in design, luxury and comfort

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Introducing

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Intercontinental Maldives Maamunagau is the first and only all-club Intercontinental resort

dreamy collection of 81 beach, lagoon and overwater villas & residences, Intercontinental Maldives Maamunagau serves up tasty club benefits such as complimentary afternoon tea and cocktails as the first all-club Intercontinental resort. Located on Maamunagau island at the southern tip of Raa Atoll, each space is decked out in contemporary Maldivian design and offers unobstructed views of the Indian Ocean best admired from the private terrace or pool.

The resort features six restaurants including The Retreat, an adults-only enclave with a private bar and its own infinity pool at the water’s edge, while its signature AVI Spa offers six overwater treatment

villas so you can chill out over the waves with a massage. Unlike many Maldivian properties, it’s not all about the newly-weds, as there’s a Planet Trekkers Kids Club for young explorers should you be travelling with kids in tow.

A 35-minute seaplane transfer from Male International Airport, the island is located near the Maldives’ only UNESCO World Biosphere Reserve, which is home to Hanifaru Bay, one of the few places in the world where you can snorkel among feeding congregations of whale sharks and large groups of manta rays. As part of Intercontinental Maldives’ conservation initiatives, the resort has partnered with Manta Trust in support of the Maldivian Manta Ray Project to nurture a safe habitat for the manta rays within the resort’s lagoon. intercontinental.com/maldives

Swim with whale sharks and mantas at Intercontinental Maldives Maamunagau

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Introducing Located on Grosvenor Square, The Biltmore Mayfair has undergone a multi-million-pound redevelopment

Wonder WEST END The Biltmore Mayfair is the new place to stay in London’s coveted West End

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here are few places more charming than London in the Autumn months, particularly if you’re strolling round W1, where the glorious green spaces of Hyde and Green Park await. One of the UK capital’s most anticipated openings of 2019 is The Biltmore Mayfair on Grosvenor Square (formerly The Millennium Hotel), which has undergone a multi-million-pound redevelopment by LXR, Hilton’s luxury hotel collection brand. Developed to reflect the property’s origin as an elegant London private residence, it reopened for business this September and marks the group’s European debut following the debut of its first hotel, Habtoor Palace Dubai, in 2018.

Designed by Goddard Littlefair, who’s previously worked with Hilton on the Intercontinental Berlin and Corinthia Hotel Budapest, the hotel offers 257 guest rooms and 51 suites, including a two-bedroom duplex with private terrace and living room; one-bedroom options include the Mayfair Suite and Grosvenor Suite. Eating and drinking options include brasserie-style restaurant The Betterment, year-round alfresco spot The Terrace, The Tea Lounge for light meals and afternoon tea plus another bar, The Pine, for indoor cocktails once temperatures turn chilly. lxrhotels.hiltonbusinessonline.com

Introducing

SHAANXI

CHIC

The Ritz-Carlton makes its debut in Xi’an, the city of the Terracotta Warriors

Experience Xi’an in style by booking into the Ritz-Carlton

W

ith Ming-era walls encircling the city and the Terracotta Warriors solemnly standing guard, the city of Xi’an, one of China’s four ancient capitals, is situated in the northwestern province of Shaanxi at the eastern end of the ancient Silk Road. The former home of 13 imperial Chinese dynasties, guests can now tap into the city’s storied past in style by checking into the Ritz-Carlton Xi’an.

Located in Gao Xin, the city’s business hub, the 283-room hotel was designed

by Remedios Studio (Landmark Mandarin Oriental Hong Kong, Park Hyatt Beijing) and standout interior design features

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include patterned motifs by local artisans.

Situated on the 23rd floor, the club lounge grandly illustrates there’s more to Xi’an than ancient history with wraparound vistas of its shiny new skyline. The transition from day to night, meanwhile, is marked by traditional pipa music and the serving of locally-inspired drinks and snacks. Continue the evening at Flair, where cocktails are paired with Asian tapas.

Ready to recharge? Treatments at the Ritz-Carlton Spa are steeped in Chinese traditions, and spa menu highlights include the Silk Reviver, which comprises a rescue release massage, back exfoliation, plus a facial & signature scalp treatment with a silk wrap. ritzcarlton.com

Introducing

LAID-BACK

LUXURY Bali’s latest boutique offering, the Clubhouse at Ulu, is inspired by the surf breaks surrounding it

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he Clubhouse at Ulu is home to just seven suites, each named and inspired by the seven legendary surf breaks that surround the Uluwatu-based property, including Padang Padang, Impossibles and Racetracks. Each of the suites offers a chilled-out vibe of laid-back luxury, with spaces featuring nomadic artwork, ‘50s California style furnishings, freestanding baths and four poster beds, while in-suite or poolside spa treatments are another blissed-out benefit.

Guests at The Clubhouse at Ulu are welcomed by their host upon arrival, with front desk check-ins swapped for insuite or cliff top welcomes. In-suite amenities, meanwhile, include organic products, massage candles and bamboo razors. Once you step outside the chilled-out vibe of your pad, ask the beach butler to arrange parasol, towels and a cooler filled with cold drinks to take you the private beach, or stop off for a cocktail or two at the private members’ lounge, which is open only to hotel guests.

You can also access sister property Ulu Cliffhouse, which is home to The Cliff Bar and Ocean Deck, where raw food and tiki-style cocktails await, as does an impressive music roster: Fatboy Slim and Carl Cox have been behind the decks here. theclubhouseatulu.com

Experience boutique luxury at the Clubhouse at Ulu

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Inspire

Jet in from Bangkok for a retro stay at 137 Pillars House Chiang Mai

Jetting into Chiang Mai Boutique hotel 137 Pillars House debuts luxury private jet package from Bangkok to Chiang Mai

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p the luxe stakes the next time you’re in Thailand by jetting into 137 Pillars House Chiang Mai from Bangkok, which has partnered with VIP Jets to introduce a luxury private jet package, which can accommodate either a family of four or two couples travelling together.

The package includes round trip flights from Bangkok to Chiang Mai in a private Cessna Citation Mustang jet, round trip limousine transfers from Chiang Mai International Airport, two nights’ accommodation in a Louis Leonowens Pool Suite, daily buffet breakfast for two from The Dining Room or a la carte breakfast in your suite, afternoon tea on The Lawn and complimentary late check-out until 6pm subject to availability. The package is valid until 31 October 2019 and is priced at US$26,543.

Located in a leafy residential enclave, the hotel is built around an original colonial teak homestead that dates back to the late 1800s that was formerly the northern headquarters of the East Borneo Trading Company. The boutique hotel is home to 30 suites, which feature large terraces with daybeds, rattan rocking chairs, walk-in closets overlooking the tropical gardens and Victorian baths. 137pillarschiangmai.com

Inspire

Cruise with the fam

Set sail with your nearest and dearest on a Royal Caribbean cruise this Autumn & Winter

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ooking to get the family together over the Christmas and New Year period? Make life easy for yourself by assembling everyone onboard a cruise ship so they can schedule their own entertainment and you can all enjoy some family time dining together.

To acquaint families the benefits of cruising, Royal Caribbean has launched cruise videos starring with celebrity couple Huang Xiaoming and Angelababy, which showcase onboard entertainment including dance and iceskating performances, and sports facilities such as the FlowRider, which allows guests to try surfing in a customised pool. Spectrum of the Seas, the first in the Quantum ultra class of ships, also features the Sky Pad, a virtual reality bungee trampoline experience, and a multi-purpose indoor sports field with AR technology.

From December 2019 to January 2020, Spectrum of the Seas will homeport in Hong Kong. Departing on 22 December 2019 and 2 January 2020, the seven-night Japan & Philippines cruise will visit Ilocos, where guests can enjoy some beach time, and admire the eclectic architecture at Vigan City.

From November 2019-April 2020, you and the fam can join the fivenight Southeast Asia Cruise, which stops in Kuala Lumpur & Penang, and also in Phuket for up to 12 hours, giving you plenty of time to grab some snorkelling in Phi Phi’s crystalline waters.

Keen to visit Dubai? Jewel of the Seas’ seven-night Dubai cruise departs from Dubai from December 2019 to March 2020, and stops in Abu Dhabi, Al Shams and Muscat. In each port, the cruise stops for up to 10 hours with only one full day of sailing throughout the journey. royalcaribbean.com

Royal Caribbean’s latest cruises feature longer stopovers in ports

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Inspire Inspire

Snapshot of Bangkok

Hone your photography skills by booking a place on Mandarin Oriental Bangkok’s Picture Perfect with Leica package

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ooking to up the photography game? Now’s your chance, as the Mandarin Oriental Bangkok has introduced a new package, Picture Perfect with Leica, which delivers game-changing insights into the art of photography in one of the world’s most vibrant capitals.

Staying at one of the city’s oldest hotels, a haven of calm on the banks of the Chao Phraya River for more than 140 years, hotel guests will be escorted by limousine to the Leica Galley in Bangkok for a personal viewing and tutorial with an exhibition specialist on photographic perspective, movement and composition. Then they will join internationally renowned snapper & manager of Leica Akademie, Kristian Dowling, on a two-hour long walking tour of the

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Master the art of the photography in the Land of the Smiles

city’s old town district, capturing shots of renowned attractions including the Grand Palace, What Phra Kaew and the National Gallery on camera.

Valid until 15 December 2019, the Picture Perfect with Leica package includes daily breakfast for two, one Leica Sofort instant film camera and an instant film double pack (20 exposures) in addition to the aforementioned tours round the Leica Gallery and old town.

To ensure you don’t get too sticky in the Bangkok heat, there’s a limousine transfer to and from the old town.

The package is available until 15 December, subject to availability, and is based on double occupancy and a minimum stay of two nights; 14-day advance booking is required. mandarinoriental.com/bangkok

City Guide

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City Guide

HIKING

HIGH TEA

Don your hiking boots for some beautiful walks that are reassuringly close to the city

Have a light breakfast so you can savour some of Taipei’s finest afternoon tea experiences

Soothe and soak your muscles at the public hot springs and hotels in the chilled-out Beitou district

Those who want to begin a hike close to the city should try the Xiangshan trial, a short hike (around 20 minutes) that involves tackling some steep steps up to Elephant Mountain.

Start your journey in the late afternoon from the MRT Xiangshan Station when it’s cooler, and you can catch the sunset.

One of the hippest addresses in town W Taipei’s (marriot.com) afternoon teas are a glamorous, stylish affair as the hotel plays up to its design credentials with beautiful tiers of sweet and savouries served at Yen Bar on the 31st floor, which offers knock-out views out to Taipei 101.

During the occupation, the Japanese opened several hot springs in Taiwan in the district of Beitou, a 30-minute ride from the city on the MRT. Located within Beitou park, the Beitou Outdoor Public Hot Springs houses three hot pools and two cold pools and each session lasts two hours. They operate on a schedule of two-hour segments. To find out more about this ancient practice, you can head to the nearby Beitou Hot Spring Museum, which houses the original bathing pools.

It may be one of the city’s most popular hikes, but Wu Liao Jian is not for the faint-hearted, as you’ll need to use the fixed ropes to navigate your path over the Phoenix Plume and climb down a long, steep rockface.

Starting at the Jinguashi Gold Ecological Museum in Jinguashi town, the Teapot Mountain hike takes in steep staircases, with a pavilion at the top of the final climb taking in stunning views of the coastline. You can use the fixed ropes to scramble through a well-maintained path that takes in different viewpoints.

Starting at Xihu station, the Jinmianshan trial is a steep hike with rocks and boulders at the top where you can pause and take in the views over the city. There are different routes up and down to the summit.

If you’re up for a day trip out of the city, then consider visiting Sun Moon Lake in Central Taiwan, which is reachable by HSR train in around 50-60 minutes. Rambles include the Mount Maolan Trail, an easy 3km hike that winds through vast tea plantations. More ambitious is Mount Shuishe, a steep trail with great views over the lake at 2,059m.

Afternoon tea at The Mandarin Oriental Taipei (mandarinoriental.com) is offered at Café un Deux Trois, a distinctly retro offering that allows diners to choose three items from the chocolate trolley. If you’re short on time, pick up a sugary treat at the Mandarin Oriental Cake Shop.

A member of the Small Luxury Hotels of the World group, art lovers will adore San Want Residences (swresidences), as it features original artwork throughout, many being contemporary Taiwanese artists. Afternoon tea is served in the Resident’s Lounge, a traditional affair of finger sandwiches, scones and locallysourced tea.

A similarly artistic theme pervades at Hotel Eclat Taipei (eclathotels.com) which houses works by Salvador Dali alongside contemporary Chinese pieces. The afternoon tea offerings buck convention, with Mexican burrito with crab sauce and burger steak with quail egg among the savouries, although it does have British raisin scones and macarons on the sweet menu.

Built in 1952, the Grand Hotel Taipei (grandhotel.org) is an iconic palace-like building with red columns and gilded tiles. Head to the Garden Café and be wowed by the beautiful flower arrangements as you nibble on dainty sandwiches, macarons and tropical fruit.

HOT SPRINGS

Beitou is also home to many hot spring hotels.

Taiwan’s only Relais Chateaux Hotel, Villa 32 Beitou (villa32.com) has its own public hot spring area (single entry usage for up to four hours), five private hot spring rooms and two Japanese-style rooms equipped with outdoor spring tubs.

The Grand View Resort Beitou (gvrb.com.tw) has an outdoor hot spring encircled by pine trees with wooden floors, an open air spring with hot and cold pools, ice pool and a steam room, and a private hot spring room for a quiet soak.

Situated on the top floor, the MU Springs at Hotel Royal Beitou (hotelroyal.com.tw) has a sauna, steam room and hydrotherapy exercise pool in addition to hot springs.

Japanese hotel The Radium Kagaya (kagaya. com.tw) has an indoor public hot spring and 17 private hot spring rooms; one-day packages are available for those not staying at the hotel.

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A MonumentalBeauty One of Bangkok’s most inspirational addresses, THE MONUMENT Thong Lo will take your breath away

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YOUR GATEWAY TO THE REFINED AND REMARKABLE

The Gateway Apartments presents the apex of luxury living

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The Staunton provides stunning vistas of the Hong Kong skyline

Relish lively entertainment at the vibrant SoHo in the neighbourhood

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ECO-FRIENDLY GETAWAYS WITH

CONSTANCE HOTELS & RESORTS

Make your holiday a green haven by staying in one of Constance Hotels & Resorts’ sustainable collection of resorts located across the Indian Ocean

Diving or snorkelling alongisde turtles is a major highlight for many Constance Hotels & Resorts guests

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Marine biologist Jasmine Stone builds an artificial coral planting structure

Birdwatching in the Maldives

APPRECIATE MARINE ECOSYSTEMS Every possible step towards the conservation of marine life and protection of reefs is taken by Constance Hotels & Resorts to ensure wastewater is not discharged in the ocean, and educating team members and guests about the negative environmental impact of littering on the beach and in the sea. It also ensures all trash is properly disposed of and no debris are left hanging on the beach, and sensitising guests and ensuring with service providers that snorkelling and diving are practiced in a way that does not affect the coral reefs. Constance Hotels & Resorts also encourages and supports the clean-up of the marine and coastal environment and complies with local conservation policies, such as the promotion of non-motorised water sports. Other initiatives it embraces is keeping boats clean and in proper working condition to minimise noise pollution, and planting trees, as the latter reduce runoff into the oceans and contribute to reversing the warming of our planet and the rising temperatures of our oceans. Guests can appreciate the great lengths that Constance Hotels & Resorts goes to maintaining the diverse ecosystem present within the Indian Ocean in all of its resorts.

ADMIRE THE WETLANDS

Wetlands play a significant role in stabilising greenhouse gas emissions and softening the impacts of climate change while acting as a buffer to coastlines against extreme weather, floods and relieve droughts.

The most effective carbon sinks on Earth, they are also biodiversity hotspots and contribute to the socioeconomic progress as they act as a fish nursery to secure fish stocks along with opportunities for

ecotourism activities like kayaking or guided tours.

Constance Prince Maurice and Constance Ephelia Seychelles are located in sites aimed at improving the management of biodiversity within the resort and the surrounding areas by enhancing the collaboration between the resort and community partners. Guests are regularly invited for tours in the mangrove nursery to learn about their contribution in the global ecosystem and the scientific approach adopted for the transplanting of saplings.

Guests are invited to watch baby turtles being released into the sea at Constance Lemuria

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APPLAUD RECYCLING INITIATIVES Constance Halaveli is committed to preserving the beautiful ocean surrounding it so that guests can enjoy its translucent waters for many years to come. It has partnered with groups such as the Parley Ocean School to gather all plastic bottles on its island and send them to Malé. As there are no recycling facilities as such in the Maldives, Parley Ocean School sends all plastic bottles collected to Germany where they can be recycled and used to create new items, such as Adidas running shoes. Regular lagoon clean-ups to remove plastic and other trash from the ocean are additionally organised by team members. Whether you’re strolling and paddling along the beach, or donning a diving suit for some underwater action, all you’ll encounter are pristine waters and beautiful sights such as turtles gliding past

thanks to Constance Halaveli’s conscious efforts to recycle.

ENJOY THE MANGROVES With their rich tropical biodiversity, the fauna and flora surrounding the Constance Prince Maurice hotel are unique in Mauritius, as it’s home to the large native mangrove forest and the barachois protected fish sanctuary. With the help of the Reef Conservation Association, the hotel prepared an educational guide on the fauna and flora that adjoins Constance Prince Maurice. The objective of this project is to educate children and adults alike on the importance of preserving the marine environment. The 40-page book is intended to be fun, with a multitude of illustrations, but also indicates the right actions to adopt to preserve and protect the environment. Such educational initiatives will hopefully ensure that the Constance Prince Maurice Aerial view

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mangroves and the barachois will be here for many more generations to come.

Eschew boats and take in nature by paddleboard

RESPECT LIVING CORALS Situated in the South Ari Atoll, Constance Moofushi is paradise for divers who appreciate the richness of underwater life. Living corals are born here, in the depths of the ocean, where colourful fishes swim among them. Constance Moofushi boasts one of the most awarded diving centres in the world, Bluetribe, which is at the forefront of protecting nature with several projects, such as the Manta Trust, Project Aware Shark Conservation, and coral planting & repopulation in the Moofushi house reef. As a leader in green tourism and responsible for sustaining the management of the eco systems, Constance Moofushi was the first resort in the Maldives to have signed a Memorandum of Understanding with the Waste Management Corporation Limited in 2017. Thanks to such an eco-friendly approach, this is a great place to get acquainted with all the various corals that hail from the Maldives.

INTERACT WITH TURTLES

Appreciate the flora and fauna crossing the boardwalk at Constance Prince Maurice

Constance Tsarabanjina Madagascar diving ambiance

Constance Hotels & Resorts cherishes the nature surrounding it and is delighted to share its home with some of nature’s most beautiful creatures.

One way it has demonstrated its commitment to nature is by establishing a tortoise reserve at Constance Ephelia, with hotel guests invited to interact with the tortoises. Two years ago, the resort enlarged the area and further improved their habitat, which led to a breeding success.

Grande Anse Kerlan at Constance Lemuria Seychelles, meanwhile, remains the number one beach on Praslin Island with a proper Turtle Conservation Programme. Constance Lemuria Seychelles is home to a bale of Hawksbill turtles.

From October to January, the female turtles bury their eggs in the sand under beach vegetation.

To ensure that these eggs survive the eightweek incubation period, the resort protects them until the baby turtles are born before releasing them back into the sea. Guests and local school children are invited to take part in the releasing ceremony and play their part in this special moment. constancehotels.com

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A LITTLE SLICE OF

THAI PARADISE Slow down and chill out in the sublime surrounds of Silavadee Pool Spa Resort in Koh Samui

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n exclusive hideaway on the beautiful isle of Koh Samui, Silavadee Pool Spa Resort presents a timeless aesthetic that seamlessly merges nature with modern luxury. Tucked away on Laem Nam beach, the rooms and villas are sleek and luxurious, a sumptuous mix of teak, light cedar wood and bamboo surrounded by lush tropical garden. With a name that fittingly translates to “The Beautiful Rock” in Thai, Silavadee welcomes families and couples alike to unwind and get back to nature in one of the leading holiday destinations in the world.

With just 80 keys, the resort’s inviting accommodation options include deluxe rooms, pool villas and pool villa suites ranging in size from 50 to 300 sqm, each of which have rain showers and bathtubs as well as spectacular views out to the ocean or gardens. Standout selections include the Jacuzzi Deluxe, with an outdoor Jacuzzi from which guests can admire the stars, and the Tropical Pool Villa, which has a private pool equipped with an Aqua Jet Massage Bed. The most upscale accommodation offering is Silavadee’s 300 sqm Ocean Front Pool Villa Suite, which has its own infinity pool, private library and wine cellar. Offering the best location to view the sunset, the large sofas in the cabanas outside are ideal for small gatherings.

Standout amenities include the renowned Silavadee Spa, which offers ancient Asian and modern Western therapies inside one of five private Spa Villas. The resort has recently introduced a new Wellbeing Concept that offers guests the freedom to add unlimited wellness, culture, sports and mindful activities to their usual holiday experience so they don’t have to choose only wellness or only leisure holidays. The core concept offers three main tracks that the

guest can choose as a main direction depending on their overall interests and goals. Alternatively, guests can choose any activity “a la carte”. Highlights are a wellness cooking class, merrit making at Lamai temple, Thai meditation, dawn yoga, and Balance Board. To complement the wellbeing concept, Silavadee has also dedicated its Sun Lounge restaurant to wellness cuisine, providing guests with a selection of dishes made with fresh flavours and local ingredients.

Those keen to keep up their fitness routine, meanwhile, can work out at the Fitness Centre, which commands beautiful views of the ocean. The resort also offers a variety of activities, including Thai cooking classes, kayaking, snorkelling, Muay Thai and yoga. With pristine coral sands as smooth as powder, Silavadee’s hidden gem is its private beach, which is home to one of the best snorkelling sites on the island.

When the mood strikes, step into the resort’s infinity pool and order up a drink at the Sun Pool Bar. Alternatively, hideaway in the Sun Lounge for ice cream, pastries and coffee, or savour international cuisine at Moon morning, noon and night. As the sun goes down, guests can head over to the romantic Star bar, one of the most stunning rooftop venues on the island, for a pre-dinner cocktail. Right at the top of the resort, diners at The Height can sample traditional and modern Thai food at the glass-walled dining room, or enjoy a breezy alfresco dinner on the open-air terrace.

Whether you’re craving a relaxing holiday by the pool with sublime spa treatments on the side or are keen to cook the Thai classics and master Muay Thai on the beach, the Silavadee Pool Spa Resort makes for a magical getaway. silavadeeresort.com

www.silavadeeresort.com

Budapest

Fred Olsen Cruise Lines

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THE

Beauty OF

Budapest

A cruise along the Danube affords impressive vistas of the Hungarian Parliament Building

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From left:

the Chain Bridge connects Buda and Pest; cafe culture in Szentendre; the Hungarian Parliament Building; al fresco art in Szentendre

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plit into Buda and Pest by the Danube, Budapest is two cities rolled into one: chilled-out, historical Buda, where the castle and many of the city’s old buildings are located, and the perpetually buzzing Pest, a modern-day metropolis that never sleeps, with all the landmarks of a contemporary European city, from handsome thoroughfares lined with luxury boutiques to a buzzing bar and restaurant culture where the drinks and plates just keep on coming.

The best way to get your bearings in Budapest is by heading down to the river (so my mum says, who is travelling with me and has visited the city many times before) so we catch the metro to Kossuth Lajos Square, where the Hungarian Parliament Building is based – its neo-gothic design takes its cues from the UK’s Houses of Parliament.

Towards the river, there is a statue of Attila Jozsef, hat in hands and a weary look in his eyes, who is often considered one of Hungary’s greatest poets.

After admiring the parliament’s magnificent façade and dodging the path of the city’s much-loved yellow and white trams, we catch

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Budapest

CINEMATIC CONNECTIONS One of the architectural inspirations for the film the Grand Budapest Hotel – director Wes Anderson reviewed archive materials from the building’s days as Grand Hotel Royal – the Corinthia Budapest is one of the city’s grandest check-ins and is popular with wellheeled, older Americans doing the grand tour of Europe. The Corinthia hotel executive suite is more stylish loft apartment than hotel room, with a living area opening onto a bedroom and walk-in wardrobe. The designer furniture and original artworks are coolly juxtaposed against open shelves stacked with books about popular culture and interiors. In true residential style, there’s an extra toilet/shower cubicle as you walk in, so guests don’t have to walk into the bedroom area and invade your space.

With bright orange lampshades and deep purple sofas providing a vibrant pop of colour, the executive lounge on the mezzanine floor offers breakfast, afternoon tea (don’t miss the chocolate doughnuts) and snacks throughout the day. Checking into a room with executive lounge status also earns you free check-in to to the hotel’s spa, with an art deco swimming pool dating back to 1886 and classical interiors a river taxi across to Buda Castle, first completed in 1265 but most of the site built between 1749 and 1769.

Housing the Hungarian National Gallery and the Budapest History Museum, it’s worth investigating if only for the views it affords over to Pest from its lofty position, with shady courtyards punctuated by sculptures and benches.

With pots of red petunias at every turn, we check into a café at Castle Hill and admire the rose-pink parapets of parliament contrasted against the brilliant blue September skies from beneath.

Getting back across to Pest is easy. We walk across the Chain bridge, the first permanent bridge between Buda and Pest, with two towers supporting the structure with great iron chains and stone lions guarding the bridge on either side. In just a few minutes, we have left behind Buda and crossed into Pest, but not before stopping several times to take pictures of the streamlined tour boats cutting lazily through the river, and enjoying the great perspectives it delivers on the ancient and modern faces of the city.

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housing saunas, a steam bath, jacuzzis and a fitness room. Round the corner from the hotel lies Andrassy avenue, a grand thoroughfare lined with old buildings housing the usual line-up of luxury brands.

ALL THAT JAZZ IN THE JEWISH QUARTER One of the city’s most intriguing districts is the Jewish quarter, and you can take a tour for free if you wait under the Ferris wheel (other tours, including the communist quarter and street art, are also available). But there’s more to it than Jewish history, as our tour leader, Patricia points out, musing that it’s a place where strip clubs and synagogues meet. The largest synagogue in Europe with seating for 3,000, the Dohany Street Synagogue was built in 1859 in the Moorish revival style, and comprises a temple, graveyard, Jewish Museum and weeping willow memorial with the names and tattoo numbers of the dead and disappeared. It’s a sobering moment for a city that’s home to one of Central Europe’s largest Jewish communities.

The tour ends in the Szimpla Kert (it translates as simple bar), created out an old factory building that was going to be knocked down that’s been reimagined as an open-air cinema and pub. It’s delightfully, unapologetically bohemian, with

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local craft beers and lattes served by surly staff amid the graffiti-ed walls, makeshift furniture and foosball tables. The buildings in the area are decorated with colourful murals, including one of a Rubik’s cube (Erno Rubik, the creator of what would become popular culture phenomenon in the 1980s, was Hungarian) while another celebrates the football team’s 6-3 win over England at Wembley in 1953 with a 50-metre by 30-metre-high artwork. Hungry, we head out to the nearby street food market and beer garden, Karavan, and lunch on langos, a deep-fried flatbread piled high with a variety of toppings; I opt for cream cheese and roasted paprika. It’s a cool place, lanterns strung up in between the dining area, and plenty of communal tables from which to lounge and enjoy your Hungarian delicacies.

Budapest

EMBRACING VILLAGE LIFE City breaks can deplete your energy, so it’s always good to call in somewhere far from the madding crowds – a little town or village, perhaps, that’s not too far from the city’s boundaries. In Budapest, that means checking into Szentendre, a riverside town populated by pastelcoloured buildings that house art galleries, museums, charming boutiques (there’s one that just sells marzipan), cute restaurants and coffee shops. Wandering through its ancient streets, framed by oversized lampshades and another festooned with colourful umbrellas, it’s impossible to not find yourself slightly charmed. After wandering down to the waterfront – a similarly cool collection of cafes and cool artwork with outdoor seating aplenty – we meander back to the main square for an ice cream, which is soundtracked by musicians next door playing old Beatles songs on violins.

Acquaint yourself with the Hungarian capital with a river cruise

Cruising the Danube

Acquaint yourself with the Hungarian capital with a river cruise Europe’s second longest river, the Danube dissects the districts of Buda and Pest.

River cruises are a popular way to take in the city, ducking under the city’s bridges, (from the ancient Chain to the modern Raxoczi) and taking in some of its most popular sights: on the Pest side, there’s the parliament buildings, while over on Buda, there’s the Royal Palace and the Citadel, a 19th century fortification built by the Austrians to keep an eye on the rebellious Hungarians keen to escape the fierce grip of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. Some river cruises stop at Margaret Island, sometimes referred to as the city’s answer to New York’s Central Park, where landscaped parks, musical fountains and Japanese gardens await. budapestrivercruise.com

From left:

city street art; porcelain fountain in Jozsef Nador Square; umbrellas in Szentendre

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Back at the hotel, we lounge on the sofas and enjoy a glass of Hungarian sparkling wine and pile our plates with a selection from the cheese board and gorgeous lemony green olives in the executive lounge. The hotel is handily located next to a craft beer bar, Monyo, which has 16 craft beers on tap and a further 30 in bottles, and a sign outside that urges us to “Support the Hungarian craft beer revolution – drink local!” It seems churlish to turn down such an offer, so we pull up a stool and work our way through the draught beers (stand-outs include American Beauty, a hoppy IPA and Dead Rabbit, a Black Mamba, a vanilla milk stout) and gaze out onto Erzebet korut (or boulevard), which is still a hive of activity after 11pm, before having a sly grin at the slogan emblazoned at the back of the bar: “beard doesn’t make you a brewer”. Ahem.

On the last day, I find myself back in the Jewish quarter, snapping graffiti one minute and beautiful architecture the next., like the

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Budapest

Colin Pickford

The Szechnyi baths attract around 1.7 million visitors year-round

Bathing in Budapest Soak your worries away by taking to the city’s thermal baths

gorgeous curved building of Anker Koz, a former banking hall completed in 1910.

Under intense blue skies, I relax awhile in Jozsef Nador Square (there is a statue of the man who helped rebuild Budapest after the great flood of 1838 at its centrepiece) and admire the ornate porcelain fountains by Herend and Zsolnay (there’s are boutiques from both in the square if you’re looking for an upscale souvenir) a focal point for tourists and locals alike, many of whom, like me, are basking in the sunshine and taking a minute to gather their thoughts. Budapest, it’s been a blast.

The writer was hosted by Corinthia Budapest, an iconic five-star grand hotel located in the heart of Pest. An overnight stay costs from €180 per room per night (two sharing) including breakfast; corinthia.com/budapest

From Iceland to Italy, there are thermal springs situated all over Europe, and many have been taking to their restorative waters to ease their ills since Roman times. Situated on a patchwork of more than 100 thermal springs, Budapest’s curative waters remain popular today. Housed in a beautiful neoBaroque palace inside Budapest City Park, Szechnyi is the biggest and most popular, with 15 indoor and three outdoor pools. Rich in calcium, magnesium and hydrogen carbonate, the water in the thermal pools can help ease joint pain and boost circulation. A variety of massages are also available, including aroma massages, thermal massages and Hungarian mud treatments. Other popular hot spring stop-offs include the Gellert thermal bath, which is attached to the art nouveau Hotel Gellert, and the Rudas Baths, a dark octagonal chamber dating back to the 16th century with a rooftop pool offering sweeping views of the city. bathsbudapest.com Opposite page:

curved Georgian building Anker Koz, art in Szentendre and langos, a Hungarian delicacy

This page:

the executive suite at the Corinthia Budapest and the hotel’s exterior

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SHANGHAI SUBLIME Offering everything from fun jeep tours to sumptuous spa treatments, Four Seasons Shanghai is one of the city’s most prestigious addresses

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Wellness

Autumn Rituals From spa pods in Singapore to a new wellness centre in Hong Kong, here’s the don’t-miss spa news of the season

Six Senses Maxwell Extends Wellness Facilities Designed as an urban sanctuary amid the busy streets of Singapore, Six Senses Maxwell has extended its wellness options with the introduction of five spa pods and two relaxation rooms.

Located on the fourth floor of the property, the spa pods and relaxation rooms are decked out in line with the property’s signature 19th century aesthetics. The Locally-Inspired Wellness Retreat, which lasts two hours and 15 minutes, starts with a consultation with seasoned practitioners from a local Traditional Chinese Medicine clinic followed by a relaxing ritual with warm amethyst crystals then a back, neck and shoulder massage. The journey continues with an orchid-scented Himalayan salt scrub, rose body mask and lifting facial massage and concludes with a wellness lunch at the Yellow Pot Chinese Restaurant or Cook & Tras Social Library. Other treatments include a Cleansing Retreat, Detox Vital and Detoxifying or Nourishing Full Body Exfoliation. six-senses.com

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Wellness

The Pavilions Hotels and Resorts Raises its Wellness Game Boutique hospitality group The Pavilions Hotels and Resorts is placing more emphasis on wellbeing with new initiatives including unlimited free massage in its Phuket spa, masterclasses at its Bali spa and partnering with REVIVO Wellness Resorts at its upcoming Rome hotel.

Guests booking Ocean View Pool Villas at brand flagship The Pavilions Phuket can relax into their stay with unlimited complimentary massages. Signature spa pleasures include a two-hour Thai Silk experience, which combines a mandarin orange scrub with traditional Thai massage, and the three-hour couples’ Love Journey, comprising a sea salt scrub and full body massage followed by a floral milk bath for two. The Spa & Pool Pavilions at The Pavilions Phuket also come with a complimentary one-hour massage treatment for two each day, either at the villa or the spa.

Over at The Pavilions Bali’s organic spa, guests can learn how to self-administer one of its signature all-natural beauty treatments with a new Aloe Vera facial masterclass, preparing their own skin superfood using organic ingredients from the resort’s spa kitchen and learning facial rejuvenation and reflexology techniques. Its collaboration with REVĪVŌ at the forthcoming First Roma Ego, meanwhile, will be unveiled when the hotel opens in 2020. pavilionshotels.com

Hyatt Regency Bali Debuts New Spa in Sanur

Hyatt Regency Bali has upped the spa stakes in Sanur with the launch of Shankha Spa, which adopts the principles of ancient Balinese wellness philosophy and its use of natural herbs and minerals.

Lifehub Wellcare Center Debuts in Hong Kong Designed to address issues of sub-optimal health such as low energy, frequent minor illnesses, excess weight, hair and skin issues, body aches and pains, and poor sleep, the Lifehub Wellcare Center offers integrated treatments and consultations with health coaches and nutritionists from its walk-in location in central Hong Kong.

Spread over a site measuring 22 acres, Shankha features 10 freestanding spa suites positioned around a water lily pond, each with a treatment space and dressing room, plus private garden with outdoor lounge, soaking tub and shower.

Treatments last from 30 to 90 minutes, while the Shankha’s Wellness Passage therapies offer something more immersive and take from two to four hours.

Guests can go for a dip in the 15.5 metre outdoor lap pool, head to the fitness pavilion or book a yoga class at the openair studio. Other spa amenities include a separate steam room, sauna, and hot & cold plunge pool baths. hyatt.com

Programmes like Oxygen Therapy, Bioresonance Therapy and Nutritional IV Therapies are combined with daily supplements, dietary changes and fitness plans to improve health. A panel of integrative physicians formulates these supplements, which contain proprietary blends of vitamins and natural herbal extracts, while personalised meal plans and a supplement regimen are additionally developed by certified health coaches and nutritionists. Adjacent to Lifehub is an integrative medical centre, with a team of medical professionals ready to provide specialty treatment for clients with other medical needs. thelifehub.com

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Hotel Review

ALL THAT GLITTERS

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ituated steps away from Fifth’s Avenue’s legendary shopping, the global flagship hotel for the Baccarat crystal brand literally glows on the inside and out, with the lower levels of the property veiled by a 125foot wide corrugated crystal-like curtain.

Arrival at the sleek 50-storey building in which the hotel is housed is unusual in the sense that you know you’re about to check in somewhere special but the signage is rather discreet, with only an immaculately dressed gentleman in attendance at the door to signal your arrival. Upon entering a modern somewhat understated Gothic styled entrance, I’m guided up two levels to a tranquil reception area, where check in is smooth and impressively swift.

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As you’d expect, there is Baccarat crystal shimmering under the lights at every turn, with a dazzling display of Baccarat chandeliers, mirrors and lights placed in every corner of the hotel. One of the most outstanding pieces is a mesmerising 20-by-25 foot wall adorned with more than 2,000 Baccarat glasses in lobby, each of which is illuminated by an LED light to create a 24-hour light show. There is also a strong design aesthetic at work, with furniture that’s not only great looking but also amazingly comfortable in the lobby and other public areas.

As you’d expect at a Baccarrat hotel, the decor and style is opulent and very high end, with Baccarat fine crystal lighting in use throughout the entire hotel as well as in each room, with custom desks, sconces and table lamps by Bacarrat. I

Hotel Review

Clockwise from opposite page:

the Petit Salon; the Grand Salon; Grand Classic King room; the bar

check into a classic king room, which, like all room types is decked out in calming shades of white. The white marble bathrooms feature glass-enclosed showers, while through handpainted French doors the bedroom features an amazingly comfortable four poster with custom jacquard linens by Mascioni. While New York is undoubtedly an amazing place to visit, I always enjoyed getting back to the hotel and the room, and even the most discerning of guests would be impressed with the attention to detail in the design of the rooms.

For our first evening at the Baccarat, we headed to the bar, a grand space with vaulted ceilings and an outdoor terrace overlooking the Museum of Modern Art for cocktails. I ordered up a Manhattan and took it on the terrace to take in the views. While I sipped at my drink, I got the

impression there were arty types closing deals for exclusive pieces of art work as they worked their way through the bar’s cocktail menu – unsurprising, perhaps, given the hotel is located directly opposite MoMA. Breakfast in the main dining area is a welcome steer away from factory-style buffets and instead offers the chance to order a la carte and enjoy highly personalised service. With a simple “1” dial push to order, room service was similarly impressive. I felt that the chef had taken my order seriously and paid attention to how I wanted the dishes prepared and served. The huge pancakes were thick and crispy, and were paired with super fresh organic bacon and a superb coffee that could arguably contend as one of the best brews in New York.

Another standout dining experience at Baccarat for me was the afternoon tea. Taking inspiration from tea services enjoyed in palaces at royal households, the Prince of Wales set is a mouthwatering mix of modern and traditional influences with highly decorated pastries, home-made scones and really wellmade tea, which is rare in New York, thanks to the presence of the hotel’s designated tea sommelier, Gabrielle Jammal.

Should you want to continue your exercise routine, you can head down to a very spacious, immaculate gym in the basement, where there is a personal trainer on hand for anyone that requires guidance. A 55-foot long indoor heated pool is set in the opulent Baccarat style, and the hotel is also home to La Mer’s first full-service spa in the world. Even the spa isn’t immune to Baccarat’s influences, as the La Mer Bacarrat Facial includes a diamond powder exfoliation and Icy Crystal Star technique that incorporates crystal into the therapy.

Post-treatment, you can only hope that your skin will be as flawless and translucent as the sparkling crystal on display. baccarathotels.com

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RACING

LINE

As the most exhilarating date on Macao’s events calendar, the Macao Grand Prix will set spectators’ hearts racing once more this November

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ome to one of the most electrifying circuits in the world, which is renowned for its tight corners and long straights, the Macau Guia Circuit has played witness to some nail-biting races in hosting the city’s Formula 3 Grand Prix competition.

The only street circuit racing event in which both cars and motorcycles participate, the race has come a long way since the first Macau Grand Prix was held in 1954, when Eduardo de Carvalho claimed victory in a Triumph TR2. Former F1 world champions Ayrton Senna and Michael Schumacher have both claimed victors’ laurels here during their careers as F3 racers, while current F1 world champion Lewis Hamilton was on pole position in 2004 but crashed out after colliding with another future F1 driver, Nico Rosberg.

Spectators attending the event will be sure to witness some exhilarating wheel-to-wheel action from the packed stands encircling the track. The Suncity Group 66th Macau Grand Prix will be held from 14-17 November, and will continue to incorporate six races, including three world-class events: the Formula 3 Macau Grand Prix – FIA F3 World Cup, the Macau GT Cup – FIA GT World Cup and the Macau Guia Race. In addition to the above events, there is the Macau Motorcycle Grand Prix, Macau Touring Car Cup and the Greater

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Bay Area GT Cup, all of which come together to create an exciting and diverse programme of events.

This year, the Formula 3 Macau Grand Prix – FIA F3 World Cup will be for cars used in the FIA Formula 3 Championship for the first time. In order to accommodate the more powerful racing cars, the MGPOC, along with relevant government departments, has been working closely with the Fédération Internationale de l’Automobile (FIA) to ensure the 6.2km Guia Circuit is upgraded to an FIA Grade II homologated track this year.

After races, spectators can head over to the 19th Macao Food Festival (8-24 November) at nearby Sai Van Lake and sample culinary delights from around the world.

Tickets for the Suncity Group 66th Macau Grand Prix are on sale now. Prices range from MOP50 for the practise days on 14 & 15 November, to MOP400-1,000 on race days, depending on the grandstand.

For more information, visit www.macau.grandprix.gov.mo.

To download the mobile app, visit www.macau.grandprix.gov.mo/en/about-us/app

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CULTURAL AND CULINARY HAPPENINGS

IN MACAO

A host of exhilarating cultural and culinary events are set to descend on Macao this Autumn and Winter 33rd Macao International Music Festival

4-30 October With a theme of The Instrumentalist, kicking off the 33rd Macao International Music Festival this year is a production of Mozart’s The Magic Flute. In 2019, the festival will also be celebrating the 80th anniversary of The Yellow River Cantata by Xian Xinghai, a composer born in 1905 into a Tanka family in Macao, as well as the 70th anniversary of the People’s Republic of China and the 20th anniversary of Macao’s Handover to Mainland China. To mark these important occasions, the Macao Orchestra will join forces with the China NCPA Orchestra and chorus to present The Yellow River Cantata. Events are held at World Heritage sites across the city including the Dom Pedro V Theatre and Mandarin’s House. www.icm.gov.mo/fimm/33/en

19th Macao Food Festival

8-24 November A mouthwatering event beloved of local residents and visitors alike, the Macau Food Festival brings delicious Asian, European, Mainland China and local delicacies to visitors, and exciting entertainment and fun for everyone to its location on beautiful Sai Van Lake Square. With food from around the world waiting to the sampled, the event is a something of a gourmet’s paradise, where visitors are bound to discover new favourite meals, snacks and drinks. There are also game booths, live performances and beer competitions during the festival.

Times: Monday-Thursday 5pm-11pm; Friday, Saturday and Sunday 3pm to 12am; www.macaotourism.gov.mo

4th International Film Festival & Awards Macao

5-10 December Now in its fourth year, the International Film Festival & Awards. Macao (IFFAM) is now held annually in December to introduce world-class networking opportunities to local creative industry professionals and to further raise Macao’s international profile. One of Hong Kong’s most successful filmmakers, Peter Chan will serve as International Competition Jury President at this year’s event. In 2019, IFFAM is also launching its first ever Shorts Competition, a curated selection of ten Chinese language short narrative films from young directors. The festival will additionally be increasing the number of prizes in the New Chinese Cinema category, which includes Best Film, Best Director, Best Actor, Best Actress and Best Screenplay. www.iffamacao.com

Cyprus

Lover’s Arch in Ayia Napa: kiss your loved one on the bridge, make a wish, and it will come true‌ apparently

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Cyprus

CYPRIOT

COOL

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Cyprus

The clear, shallow waters found in the beaches of Ayia Napa are perfect for paddling and watersports

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tanding at the crossroads of Europe, Africa and the Middle East, Cyprus is a melting pot of influences that are felt in its food, architecture and culture.

Once part of the Ottoman empire, many have wanted to lay claim to the beautiful isle: it became a British colony in 1914, eventually gaining independence in 1960. After the Turks invaded in 1974, the island has since been divided into Northern and Southern Cyprus, with the former controlled

by Turkish Cypriots and the latter Greek Cypriots.

Reunification talks have so far proved unsuccessful, dogged by issues such as how much power should be granted to the government, and who should lead it.

Reunification talks may have stalled, but southern Cyprus – particularly the resort towns of Ayia Napa and Paphos – continue to prove a big hit with holidaymakers. Located on the southeast coast, Ayia Napa is one of the island’s prettiest spots, being home to some glorious coastline with pictureperfect beaches, and it’s here that I’m calling home for a week, in a lovely apartment with a disarmingly large terrace that is just the place to sip on a glass or two of dry Cypriot wine or an Ouzo in the evening. While the beaches may be packed with holidaymakers in August, the year-round warmth – average temperatures in October and November are in the low 20s – makes this sub-tropical isle a safe bet for an Autumn or Winter getaway.

Those who love to party are well-catered for in Ayia Napa – Craig David, DJ Volatile and Jax Jones are among the top-flight DJs who have got behind the decks at clubs like the Castle and Club Aqua, the

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latter of which remains open until well after sunrise.

But it’s also a great family destination too, thanks to its gorgeous coastline and never-ending line-up of inviting beaches. One of the most striking examples is Nissi, with its shallow crystal-clear waters perfect for young paddlers. I dip my toes in the sea and stroll along its white-sand crescent, staring in disbelief at the almost surreally beautiful waters as paragliders hover ahead in the impossibly deep blue skies.

DOWN IN THE CAVES With its ancient juniper tree forests and limestone caves, Cape Greco National Forest Park is one of the most popular spots on the island, a peaceful respite from Ayia Napa’s main drag with Konnos Bay a solid stop-off for diving and snorkelling. You can walk down

Cyprus

Greek salad is a staple in Cyprus

A taste of the Med: Cypriot Eats Don’t-miss food experiences on this sunny Meditteranean isle

to the hermit’s cave from the main viewpoint, and it’s a popular spot for selfies, but navigating the rocky steps requires your full concentration so don’t stare at your phone for too long. Once at the bottom, I spy day trippers hanging off the edge of boats, their hulls mere feet away from the spiky, jagged rocks. Back at the top, I pause a while in a little blue-and-white Greek orthodox chapel, Agoi Anargyroi, before casting my gaze once more over the magnificent coastline.

Another devastating stop-off in the park is Lover’s Rock, a charming rocky arch that straddles land and sea that’s around 6m long and a half a metre wide.

Folklore dictates that if you kiss in the middle of the bridge and make a wish, it will come true, but that aside it’s just a lovely spot, and makes for a great

Those who love to share dishes will adore the Cypriot food experience, as it’s all about the meze plates, which usually include tahini, hummus and taramasalata with pita, and Greek salad alongside dishes like keftedes (minced meatballs) loukaniko (pork sausages) and more unusual plates like octopus in red wine. Cyprus is the birthplace of halloumi and you’ll find it on the menu at most restaurants, usually served within an envelope of warm pitta bread and, if you’re lucky, an artistic smear of beetroot puree, which cuts through the creaminess of this tart cheese made from goat and sheep’s milk. Souvlakia, or grilled meat kebabs, are also popular, as are gyros (doner kebab) and lamb kleftiko, slow-cooked leg of lamb with potatoes, garlic, lemon and herbs. Baklava, a puff pastry filled with nuts and soaked in honey or syrup that’s similarly popular in the Middle East, is the island’s most popular dessert.

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This page from top: Cap Greco and Makronissos tombs

Opposite page:

Cypriot delicacies and Nissi Beach

Cap Greco. Many boats have a subterranean aspect with windows and a glass bottom, from which you might spy a stingray or a turtle if you’re lucky (I saw both) gliding by. After we’ve tired of fish-spotting, we head to the top of the boat as it comes to a stop at the Blue Lagoon, an idyllic deep blue stretch of water that looks ridiculously inviting; there’s the option to do a quick swim through one of the caves, which are tall, dark and echo-ey. As I emerge from the cave’s darkness, the boat’s captain counts down as a few of his daredevil passengers line up to jump off from the rocks into the water. The boats can get crowded, particularly in high season, so you may want to consider chartering your own private cruiser for some added exclusivity.

Despite the blistering August heat, I somewhat foolishly decide to don my running gear and jog from Nissi to Makronissos beach on the last day of my Ayia Napa stay. Like Nissi, it’s one of the area’s most popular spots to catch up on some summer reading under a parasol or build sandcastles with the kids, and even when I arrive at 9am, dripping with sweat stop-off for a swim thanks to the clear, shallow waters surrounding it. Just a little further north from Lover’s Rock is the Sculpture Park, which houses alfresco installations by modern Cyprian and international artists against a backdrop of sea and beach; pieces include Mischa Pertsev’s Europe and Zeus, a two-figured composition depicting the opposing forces of male and female, and abstract pieces such as Luke Swolsman’s Spiralled Geometry. If you’re here during the Autumn and Winter months, you might just find the sculptors at work; rock up in the late afternoon and stay for sunset when the last of the sun’s rays suffuse the marble-white sculptures with a magical light.

ROMAN TREASURE There are plenty of boat trips departing from Ayia Napa harbour, with one of the most popular being to the Blue Lagoon, which is also located within

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Cyprus

after completing the 2.5km journey, it’s filling up nicely.

Beyond the blue umbrellas and recliners lined up on the beach, I follow the path up to the archaeological site, essentially a necropolis, which is home to 18 former burial chambers that date back to the Hellenistic and Roman period. Visitors are free to walk inside the tombs, which provide cool respite from the day’s 28-degree temperatures and cloudless sky. At this time in the morning, I’m the only person at the site, and I’m able to reflect on the island’s rich historical backdrop before ambling over to one of Makronissos’ other three bays, the odd palm lazily swaying in the breeze on what turns out to be another scorcher of a day.

As we sit down in a shady restaurant for our last lunch in Cyprus – halloumi pitta and Greek salad for me, lamb kleftiko for the other half and Keo beer for both – my lingering memories of this southeast corner of Cyprus are its miles of beautiful coastline, and its unapologetically, beautifully blue seas. I close my eyes and think of them one last time before we make our journey back to Larnaca.

Get acquainted with Cyprus’ ancient past at the ruins of Kourion

Daytrip: Ruins of Kourion

Discover the island’s ancient past with a visit to this archaeological wonder Perched on a hill and offering sweeping coastal views, the archaeological remains of the ancient city of Kourion deliver a fascinating glimpse into Cyprus’ past, with enough of the ancient citykingdom surviving an earthquake in 365 AD to deliver detailed insight into everyday Roman life.

Much of the remnants of the Roman city baths, for example, are still standing. The site’s centrepiece is a Roman theatre, which is still utilised for musical and theatrical performances in the summer months. The House of the Gladiators, which features a mosaic of two gladiators, Hellenikos and Margaritis, in combat dress, is another highlight, as is the House of the Achilles, which features an intricate floor mosaic of Achilles meeting with Odysseus. Located on the southwestern coast of the island, it takes around one-and-a-half hours to reach Kourion from Ayia Napa.

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Insider

NORTHERN

SOUL

Morten Holt

What inspired you to establish Up Norway?

I spent several years studying hospitality and working with luxury hotels in Dubai, Bhutan, Thailand and the Maldives for Jumeirah, Anantara and Aman, and discovered many travellers were curious about Norway but knew very little about what our country has to offer. I then worked as a hospitality consultant in Norway for several years and realised our best service providers never reach out with their offerings to international guests. There was a need in the market for an intermediary who could connect travellers with Norway’s best experiences, places and people.

Tell us about the services you offer, and what makes you different from other tour operators?

We have built a digital system that understands what each of our travellers want based on their interests, so that we can match them with a personalised travel experience and itinerary. It’s a two-sided platform – a matchmaking system with a human touch – that connects travellers with these unique experiences and handles the entire customer journey for them.

Norway has thousands of unique experiences on offer, yet what the average international tourist knows about Norway is that we have fjords and Northern lights.

Your dream is to develop sustainable tourism in Norway. Tell us about your eco-friendly approach We focus on sustainability in three different ways: developing local communities, and making climate-friendly choices. We believe the value of travel in most circumstances

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outweighs the footprint one leaves when travelling to Norway, and we help clients make environmentally friendly choices while they are here, from utilising hybrid ships and renting e-cars to exploring by foot or bicycle. This will always be a challenge, and we will continue to strive to find partners to identify with our values. When travellers come all the way from Asia, we want to encourage them to spend more time in fewer locations to get a real feel for the country, rather than just travelling to tick off new destinations.

Tell us about your typical customers and their expectations Our typical clients are simplicity searchers.

They want as much as possible to be done remotely or by third-parties. They want options to be laid out before them in simple, transparent formats. There is a paradox at the heart of this tribe – they may want nothing more than escape, rest and rejuvenation, to forget home life and its worries, but true ease relies on these home comforts. Our clients are mainly from the US, but there are increasing numbers from the Middle East, Singapore, The Philippines and Hong Kong.

What destinations or attractions have clients been most impressed with when using Up Norway?

Guests have singled out experiences including visiting the remote fishing village of Veiholmen on the island of Smøla; a farm-to-table experience with farmer Hans Arild at Grndalen Farm just outside of Oslo; and going surfing at Unstad Arctic Surf in the Lofoten archipelago.

To what extent are travellers eschewing

traditional tour operators and seeking out more authentic experiences from companies such as yours?

We’re experiencing increased interest globally, as technology has enabled us to reach guests in far-away countries.

Travellers understand a local company such as us is more likely to know Norway’s secrets and provide the best service while traveling rather than if they book through an agent in their home country.

Norway is already proving itself as a country that takes sustainability seriously, thanks to its progressive environmental policies. What can you learn from other countries embracing sustainable tourism such as Costa Rica’s plans to be carbon neutral by 2021, and Bali’s recent ban on single-use plastic?

Norway is learning every day. An increasing number of companies are banning plastic, and awareness is being raised all over the country causing both companies and private individuals to take measures. With its long coastline, Norway is striving to keep the oceans clean by introducing new electric ships and catamarans, and there’s initiatives like free diving and harvesting food from the sea at Sandøya island in Southern Norway, and tech development within salmon farming.

Tell us about any new experiences you plan to introduce to Up Norway We are currently talking with our partners to get their take on Norway’s most romantic and luxurious experiences. We are also launching two new journeys in Norway’s Arctic Circle Region, and a new trip centred around the Northern Lights in Alta. upnorway.com

Baja California, Mexico

South American spirit: driving along the cactus-lined backroads of Baja California

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Baja California, Mexico

MEXICAN

MEANDERINGS From swimming with sea lions in the Sea of Cortez to sampling gourmet perfection at Nobu’s first Latin American hotel, a roadtrip along the Baja California peninsula is rich in rewards.

Words and photos by Graeme Green

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A

black mass appears from behind a rock. Unmistakably, it’s an alpha male. While the other sealions zipping around us in the ocean look like swimming dogs, this giant is more like an underwater bear. Sometimes defensive of their territory, we give him plenty of space.

“They’re wild animals.” instructor Manuel Rodriguez tells me, back on the boat. “But they know how to interact with humans. They’re unbelievable swimmers. We tend to swim with the infants, who are curious, rather than the alpha males.”

Swimming with sea lions in the Sea of Cortez is one of many memorable experiences on a new self-drive road trip through the southern half of the Baja California peninsula. Diver/ explorer Jacques Cousteau famously described the local waters as the ‘Aquarium of the World’, with whales seen on both sides of the peninsular in the peak season (Dec-March).

But there’s plenty more to Baja than whales. We set out on our road trip outside of the whale season, when the resorts and towns across the peninsula are emptier of tourists, and find remarkable coastal landscapes and deserted beaches, volcanoes and cactus-covered, desert

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wildernesses, as well as little-known rural towns, rare pronghorn deer and ancient rock art.

ART, NOBU & LA PAZ Renting a car from Los Cabos airport, we make our way along the coast, calling in at the resort city of San José del Cabo to check out colourful galleries in the downtown art district, and crossing through the hotels, bars and restaurants of Cabo San Lucas to stay for a few days at the newly opened Nobu Los Cabos hotel. The 200room beachfront hotel is the first Nobu in Latin America from chef Nobuyuki Matsuhisa and his business partner Robert de Niro and is part of an ambitious expansion plan. From nine hotels currently, there are plans to have 20 by 2020, including Chicago, Riyadh and Warsaw.

Baja California, Mexico

Set on the beachfront, four miles away from downtown Los Cabos, Nobu’s a sleek, modern, whitewashed resort with four swimming pools and little biznaga cactus and agave plants throughout the grounds. Our suite’s decorated cream and white, with touches of red in a rug and paintings, and a bathroom wall with hundreds of inlaid rounded stones. Along a corridor, there’s a clinical white spa area, which we visit one morning for firm, relaxing Swedish massages.

But food’s the star of the show, from aguachile, guacamole and mezcal margaritas at Playa Bar to red snapper with Salsa Verde at the farm-totable Malibu Farm restaurant. At the seafront Nobu restaurant one evening, waiters deliver warming glasses of sake as we enjoy a memorable banquet of sharing plates from the largely Japanese-Peruvian menu, including cauliflower with jalapeño sauce, thinly sliced salmon in sesame oil and Atlantic cod with miso. If we could eat at Nobu every day, we might not leave. But we restart our road trip, driving north to Todas Santos with the Pacific on our left, mountains and forests of candelabra cactus to our right.

We stay in Todas Santos overnight, visiting the tourist town’s art galleries, the central plaza and the white Our Lady of Pilar Church before taking the long, straight highway to La Paz on the peninsula’s east coast. Having a car means the freedom to explore. We work our way along the coast, checking out remarkably beautiful beaches, including Balandra and Tecolote, before spending the evening walking along La Paz’ seafront Malecón, checking out a series of sculptures: Jacques Cousteau, whales, dolphins, a shining metallic pearl.

Next morning, we take a boat out to the protected Isla Espíritu Santo. Rocks along the island’s coast are crowded with nesting cormorants and frigatebirds. Pelican formations glide over coppercoloured ridges. At Los Islitos, we’re kitted out with masks, fins and snorkels, jumping off the boat into the cool water to swim with some of the 600 resident sealions. Many of them are on the slick

Opposite page:

Todas Santos Street; paddling at El Requeson; Nobu Los Cabos .

This Page: Jacques Cousteau statue; artful avocado dishes at Nobu

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From top:

sea lions at Los Islitos; Balandra beach

rocks, warming in the sun. A mother and an infant glide by beneath us. Another leaps out of the water, flopping onto its side. Curious infants come over to study us.

“Did you see the big alpha male?” Rodriguez asks, as we travel by boat across the ocean for lunch on Ensenada Grande beach on Isla Espiritu Santo. “They’re being pretty territorial today.”

“In no other place in the world can you swim with sea lions, except in captivity,” he continues. “And there’s so much other marine life round Baja: the whales, turtles, and fish, like snapper, grouper, parrotfish... It’s one of the best areas in the world for biodiversity.”

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK Driving further north into dusty white plains and desert, it feels like we’re left the main tourist hotspots far behind.

We turn off the highway and head through the backcountry towards Misión San Javier, a UNESCO-protected 18th century church in the remote mountains. It’s an adventurous drive on a challenging, uneven, rocky road through avenues of red rock cliffs and cactus. We see a few ambling cows, but no other cars.

Along the way, we stop at Rancho Santo Domingo, where 67-year-old owner Humberto Verdugo Garcia leads us up the rocky hills to see ancient rock paintings at the Cave of the Serpent. “Careful that way, amigo. There might be snakes near the entrance,” Garcia warns me, as we reach the mouth of the cave, where rocks and walls are decorated with a faded red snake, whale, squid and fish. The cave paintings, which Garcia discovered 19 years ago, are thought to have been used up to 10,000 years ago by the region’s nomadic indigenous Cochimíes, he explains. They’ve been studied and are now recognised by UNESCO, one of many rock art sites across Baja.

COASTAL DRAMA We reach Misión San Javier in the evening, a grand white church surrounded by lemon trees set in a remote mountain village with less than 150 inhabitants, before making our way down switchbacks to the Bay of Loreto as the last of the day’s light burns out. Loreto was the first Spanish settlement in Baja California. We visit the vivid yellow Museum of Jesuit Missions and neighbouring Church of Our Lady of Loreto, and spend time among the pelicans down at the harbour.

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Baja California, Mexico

Clockwise from top left:

the cave of the serpent; Church of our Lady of Loreto; cacti near San Ignacio; pelican at Punta Cabos

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Baja California, Mexico The coastal drive next day is one of the most dramatic sections of the trip, with giant mountains striped red, green and white with layers of geological time, and the ocean shining as we work our way up Conception Bay, each bend in the road seemingly bringing a new beach, many of them deserted. We stop to swim at El Requesón, wading through shallow water to a cactuscovered island, then head inland, past the peaks of still-active Volcan Tres Virgenes, to our final base, the tiny non-touristy town of San Ignacio.

Exploring further north next day, we find horned lizards and rare Peninsular Pronghorn deer at the Baja Pronghorn Reserve inside the vast, remote, protected wilderness of the Vizcaino desert, just across the border in Bala California Norte. It’s as far as we venture. Next morning, we depart early for Loreto to fly out of Baja. We spend our final evening photographing cactus on the hills around San Ignacio, then eat dinner at a little restaurant on the town’s quiet plaza. Locals gather around taco stands, while children practice football and volleyball around the Laurel trees in front of the Jesuit church San Ignacio Kadakaamán Mission. It’s an authentic slice of rural Mexican life, with a feeling of peace and calm: well worth driving 1,000 miles for.

The author travelled in Mexico with Journey Latin America (journeylatinamerica.co.uk) and stayed at Nobu loscabos.nobuhotels.com/

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Clockwise from this photo:

the coastline at Cerritos; crab catch at Punta Cabos; wall hanging at Todas Satnos; horned lizard in the Vizcaino desert

SPECIAL PROMOTIONAL SECTION

THE SHOP OF YOUR DREAMS

The Arsenale flagship store at The City of Dreams Macao presents an upscale array of vehicles alongside pieces from worldrenowned brands and designers

SPECIAL PROMOTIONAL SECTION

SPECIAL PROMOTIONAL SECTION

Road Warrior

Skurka’s favourite destination is Alaska’s Brooks Range, which he describes as a true wilderness

Tell us about some of your highlights of 2019 so far in terms of trips you’ve led and your own personal achievements For the past few years I’ve had a very good work/life balance, growing my business modestly while also running 3,000 miles per year and sneaking out for a personal trip as well. This year I focused more on the guiding programme, and it’s been the best year ever: post-trip client surveys are more positive than ever, the guide roster is stronger, and we’re increasingly recognised as the premier organisation for wilderness travel education.

You offer guided trips around Colorado, California, Alaska and West Virginia, and have led more than 500 clients on 80 trips. How do you inspire and motivate people when the going gets tough?

Our programme includes a 10-week planning curriculum to prepare clients, in terms of their expectations, fitness, and equipment. So, when things get hard, they’re physically and mentally ready for that. Still, though, positive attitudes and open communication go a long way, as do some small tricks, like infinite coffee, group tarps, and hot campfires where permitted.

You’ve released a book, The Ultimate Hiker’s Gear Guide, which has been critically acclaimed. Did you enjoy the process of putting the book together and are there plans to release more books?

I like to take on big projects, whether that be writing a book, starting a guiding business, or planning an expedition. They’re intimidating at the start, because you know it will be a huge commitment of time and resources, but

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the sense of accomplishment when they’re done is equally huge.

You have a 2.28 marathon PB and have completed six 100-mile races. Are there any hikes or races you are particularly keen to take part in?

I think I could spend the rest of my life in the mountains and canyons of the western United States and never be bored. There is so much to explore here.

Who are your favourite modern-day explorers and what inspires you about them?

I appreciate anyone who pursues an outdoor goal for genuinely personal reasons. Too often I hear athletes and explorers claim that their project is motivated by something altruistic, like raising money for or bringing attention to a cause. Sometimes, maybe, but that’s often BS. There’s nothing wrong with saying that you want to be challenged and that you want a particular experience.

Tell us about your toughest challenge, or challenges, to date and how you got through them I’ve always relied on an end goal to get me through tough times. By measuring the “success” of an effort by whether I reach that goal, I force myself to continue with the journey, and ultimately the journey is where all the meaning resides.

What do you like most about what you do?

By far, guiding trips is my favourite line of work. Imagine if your “office” was a beautiful place like Yosemite National Park, and your “coworkers” were wildly enthusiastic to be there.

What are your favourite destinations and why?

The Brooks Range is Alaska ceaselessly wows me. It’s a true wilderness, where man does not belong and cannot be comfortable, and the trekking is always superb.

You have helped to define modern lightand-fast backcountry travel, and have been named “Adventurer of the Year” by Nat Geo. Do you think you have inspired a new gen of hikers?

You’d have to ask them. But I’m encouraged by the increasing number of hikers who try to reduce their pack weights, with the ultimate goal of being safer and having more fun.

Hiking along the Appalachian Trail had a big impact on you. What made that trip so special, and what were the biggest challenges you encountered completing it in only 95 days?

I was 21 years old and proved to myself that you can accomplish seemingly impossible things – like walking 2,175 miles from Georgia to Maine – literally one step at a time. It made me less afraid of tackling huge projects.

What piece of advice can you share with others looking to embark on a big hiking adventure in terms of gear, training and mental health?

Unless you want to learn everything the hard way, do some homework before you start. There are excellent resources now for beginner backpackers, including books, blogs, and courses. Why would you waste time and money by repeating mistakes that others have already made? andrewskurka.com

Grand Prix BBQ Buffet Room Package

GRAND PRIX

Live

15-17/11/2019

at GRAND LAPA, MACAU Direct Booking privileges through the hotel website with room accommodation and all-day access to the Grand Prix BBQ Buffet at Friendship Terrace.

Available from MOP 2,599 BOOK NOW

+853 8793 3263 +852 5196 1017 www.reservations.grandlapa.com

Terms and Conditions: • Subject to 10% service charge and 5% government tourism tax; • Stay on the night of November 15 to enjoy access on November 16; • Stay on the night of November 16 to enjoy access on November 16 or 17; • Stay on the night of November 17 to enjoy access on November 17; • Kids access is not included. Discounted rate offered to kids up to 11 years old. Full rate applies to kids aged 12 and above; • Drinks are not included at the Grand Prix BBQ Buffet; • The Barbecue Terrace is located on the 5th floor and opens from 9AM to 6PM on November 16 and 17; • No refunds for any unused portion of the package.

956 - 1110 Avenida da Amizade, Macau | +853 2856 7888 | www.grandlapa.com Managed by Artyzen Hospitality Group

Scan to Book Now

The List Experience mobile camping at Al Baheed Resort Salalah by Anantara in Southern Oman

From romantic dinners in the Sahara to going offroad in the Mojave, we present some super-hot desert adventures SAMPLE LUXE MOBILE CAMPING IN THE GULF OF OMAN DESERT Al Baleed Resort Salalah by Anantara in southern Oman (salalah.anantara.com) has recently introduced its Luxe Mobile Camping Adventures in collaboration with travel specialist Oman Expeditions, which offer tailored itineraries of varying lengths. Travelling via luxury 4x4 vehicles, a sample itinerary would include two nights’ camping and three days of desert-based activities, including astronomy and ornithology tours.

In the foothills of the Dhofar mountains, guests can also trek on a camel along the ancient frankincense trading routes.

GO OFFROAD IN THE MOJAVE Adrenaline junkies will love the Mojave Desert Adventure from Zero Offroad (zero1offroad.com), which sees drivers get behind the wheel of a Utility Task Vehicle (UTV) featuring race-inspired suspension and two-way communication for two, three or five hours to take in the arid desert scenery, including canyons and the desert’s native Joshua trees, and try to spot lizards darting in and out of the sand. A five-hour trip includes lunch at the historic Pioneer Salon in Goodsprings, Nevada and tours begin in Las Vegas.

SAVOUR A ROMANTIC DINNER IN THE SAHARA Dine on Moroccan food under the stars within the

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largest desert in the world at the Nubia Luxury Camp in the Moroccan Sahara (theebeldicollection.com), which offers private dining in the dunes, smart dining in the restaurant tent, or a more casual affair under the shade of a Berber tent. Camel treks, quad biking and sandboarding can also be arranged by the camp.

EMBRACE NOMADIC LUXE IN THE GOBI Overnighting in a yurt doesn’t have to mean sacrificing on comfort. Accommodation providers such as Three Camel Lodge (threecamellodge.com) in Gurvansaikhan National Park, Southern Mongolia, provide a luxurious update on the traditional nomadic lifestyle, with 40 yurts featuring beautiful carved wooden furniture and walk-in stone-built showers. Facilities include a bar and restaurant where you can sample delicacies like horhog (meat cooked with stones). The camp can arrange camel rides and mountain bike hire, should you wish to explore the Gobi on two wheels.

SNAP A SAFARI IN THE KALAHARI Learn how to take better photographs with the Kalahari Photographic Safari (umkuluadventures.com), where a professional guide will teach you the practice and habitats of the wildlife and birdlife of this semi-desert region so you can better understand the conduct of the wildlife and get the best shots. The tour is limited to just six, and the red dunes and watering holes are sure to provide photographic inspiration.

Turning Left

BACKGROUND United Airlines recently upgraded the Hong Kong-New York/Newark route, which is now served by Boeing 777300ER, offering customers both United Polaris business seats and Premium Plus (essentially premium economy). On the way back from New York, passengers can check into the Newark United business class airport lounge, which debuted last year, an elegant, stylish space that offers everything from private offices to day beds accessorised with Saks pillows. One of the most striking things about the lounge is the sheer number of seating options available, from huge sofas to individual pods that allow for almost total privacy.

Food can be selected from a five-star hotel themed buffet or ordered a la carte.

options and expansive storage, there’s also an electronic privacy divider with a “do not disturb” option for those craving privacy during the almost 16-hour flight time.

As I got comfortable in my seat ready for take-off with a pre-take off Champagne in hand, I could see other passengers’ evident delight as they explored every nook and cranny of the newly-developed cabinets and cupboards, which include a slot for a laptop and under ottoman storage. Ahead of the launch of the Spider-Man: Far From Home premiere during July, the SpiderMan amenity kit provided a playful touch, and was stocked with luxury skincare products from Sunday Riley. To further up the comfort stakes, bedding from Saks Fifth Avenue and pyjamas are available on request.

BOARDING

DINING

Boarding was smooth and swift, with first and business class passengers obviously a priority, and we were seamlessly swept onto the plane to experience all the Boeing 777-300ER had to offer.

THE SEAT The Boeing 777-300ER aircraft features 60 seats in business class in a 1-2-1 configuration with direct-aisle access from all seats. Resembling individual suite-like pods, United’s Polaris business class seats are designed in partnership with Acumen Design Associates and PriestmanGoode to ensure customers can get the best possible sleep at 35,000 feet. Offering fully customisable recline and foot-rest

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One of the stand-out features of this flight is the dining experience and the amount of options it offers. Starters included roast beef tenderloin, green pea and celeriac puree, while entrees featured pan-fried chicken breast and sole fish fillet with prawn and scallop. One of the most eye-catching dessert menu options is a signature sundae served with a choice of hot toppings, including Ghiardelli hot fudge and sea salt caramel sauces. If you’d prefer more time to work or relax, you can take advantage of United’s express dining service and choose to receive all courses, or only select items from the menu; your meal is presented as and when you’re ready so you can crack on with work, or catch

some shut-eye, as and when the mood takes. Served from the galley, the anytime a la carte menu includes mid-flight snacks, while the arrival dining service included scrambled eggs with hash browns, chipotle chicken sausage, button mushroom and cherry tomato, which gave me a great head start on the day as we approached Newark.

SERVICE Service was very polite, sincere, friendly and above all entertaining – I found all the staff on the flight to be amusing and witty. I didn't have any special requests during the flight but was left in no doubt that if I did, they would have been very well catered for.

ENTERTAINMENT There is a vast if not overwhelming choice of movies from classics to the latest releases a wide range of documentaries and dramas that may leave you putting your tablet to one side. The entertainment system responds quickly with little waiting time for things to clunk in to action.

SUMMARY What stood out was the individual personalities of all the crew, and their wit, charm and professionalism. Flying from Hong Kong the crew were from Hong Kong, and flying from New York, the crew were from NYC – nothing unusual in that except for being with locals flying out from their home turf gives a feeling of flying with family friends, albeit in great comfort.

Fly United from Hong Kong to Newark return in business class; united.com

LIFESTYLE ITALIAN MASTER

IN THE KITCHEN WITH THEO RANDALL

KISS AND MAKE UP RIHANNA'S FENTY BEAUTY MAKES HONG KONG DEBUT

ECOFRIENDLY THREADS

BOSS DEBUTS TRACEABLE WOOL CAPSULE

London Calling THE BERKELEY BAR & TERRACE REVIEWED

CANNES FILM WEEK

JOHNNIE WALKER GHOST WHISKY

CANON POWERSHOT MARK II & MARK III

In The Kitchen

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In The Kitchen Theo Mistral sees you continue your partnership with the Intercontinental Hotel, as you also have a restaurant at the Intercontinental Park Lane in London and the Intercontinental Bangkok. Does it feature some of the same menu items?

The menu will have a few of our signature dishes from Intercontinental Park Lane and Bangkok but the menu was been put together using as much local produce as possible. I wanted to create a relaxed environment with simple but delicious food that I felt would suit the Hong Kong market. The inspiration behind the menu is all about the produce. When I came to Hong Kong in 2017, we visited some local farms and I discovered some that grow organic vegetables. We are working with some of these farms, and will continue to do so throughout the seasons.

What dishes on the menu offer something different from the usual Italian fare?

The menu offers diners authentic rustic Italian cuisine using the best ingredients available. We don’t mess around with crazy combinations and stick to our aim of cooking seasonal produce without too much fuss and overcomplicated food. The menu is very strong on homemade pasta and offers dishes that are great for sharing. There are some dishes you won’t find on lots of menus in Hong Kong like our Sformato made with fontina cheese, spinach and Parmesan or our ravioli di erbette with sage butter.

The fish stew is one of our classic dishes and while there maybe a few restaurants serving it, you must try ours.

When you were at The River Cafe in London, the kitchen was awarded a Michelin star and you were instrumental in that. Why do you think the menu worked so well?

The menu was such a success because the ingredients were some of the finest you could find. Mix that with some very talented cooks, great front of house and a wonderful environment and you have a successful restaurant.

Based on your partnership with the Intercontinental, what would you say are the main advantages of restaurants located within a hotel?

The main advantages are having the resources and the support from the hotel, and not having to negotiate a lease every few years. Then of course you have the space and facilities to be creative, with the opportunity of marketing the restaurant to hotel guests for additional business. This is particularly good as we have a private room that seats up to 20 people on one table.

What are the advantages of running a restaurant in Hong Kong compared to London and Bangkok?

The advantages of Hong Kong are the fact that everyone eats out all the time. This is the same in London and

Bangkok but much more in Hong Kong. In addition, the customer doesn’t mind paying for quality ingredients and really know what good food is. Discerning customers are always good because they keep you on your toes, so you are always trying to be better. Hong Kong has a reputation for some of the nest restaurants in the world so having a restaurant here is an honour.

There are plenty of Italian restaurants in Hong Kong.

Why should we come and eat at Theo Mistral?

Because we cook delicious seasonal food and have a non-fussy approach to the menu so you can have a plate of homemade pasta, or Neapolitan style pizza – the restaurant’s head chef Fabio Guiglione is from Naples – with a glass of wine. For big parties, we have a large table for 10 guests where you can have lots of dishes in the middle of the table, or a five-course tasting menu.

Lunchtime we do a set menu with antipasti, or a choice of give main courses while desserts include our famous Amalfi lemon tart.

Will you be making regular trips to Hong Kong to deliver special tasting menus and one-off dinners?

Yes, I’ll making many trips to Hong Kong and along with my head chef Fabio, we’ll be updating the menu by creating seasonal tasting menus and dishes throughout the year.

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Food Adventures

Brown’s TeaTox Healthy Afternoon Tea

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Food Adventures

GUILT-FREE AFTERNOON TEA A new wave of health-conscious afternoon teas suggests you can have your cake and eat it…

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t Hong Kong vegetarian restaurant Veda, located inside the Ovolo hotel in Central, afternoon tea becomes High Chai, with a menu including virtuous options like cottage cheese wraps, veggie lentil cake and mini avocado toast on the savoury side.

Instead of tiers heaving with scones, éclairs and the like, there’s just two sweet options: the orange & rosemary olive oil cake and a homemade granola with yogurt and Earl Grey compote. Pair it with a Pukka tea like cinnamon or vanilla chai, or go for a fresh pressed juice mix like Grass Me Up (kale, spinach, cucumber, celery, green apple and spirulina). ovolohotels.com.hk t Brown’s Hotel in London, there’s a Tea-Tox Healthy Afternoon Tea menu with avocado cream & pickled radish, plum tomato, tofu & peppermint, mushroom and nori algen and fresh hummus, roasted peppers and rocket salad served with gluten-free bread. The desserts include a banana and caramel loaf cake and apricot & almond slice. If that all sounds too saintly, you can order the same menu with a glass of Champagne on the side. roccofortehotels.com

vailable every Friday, The Capella Hotel Singapore’s Wellness Tea Time comprises a five-course menu of dairy and glutenfree options, including root vegetables and hummus tart, tempeh portobello sliders and cauliflower crust pizza with shiitake bacon, while sweet treats include a quinoa and zucchini chocolate tea cake and cultivated cheesecake with blueberry and beetroot glaze. The house scones, meanwhile, are topped with raspberry chia seed and whipped coconut cream. Pair it with a Ronnefeldt Ayurvedic tea… and a smug smile. capellahotels.com heck into the Sofitel Sydney Wentworth for Vegan High Tea, with a menu that reflects chef Boris Cuzon’s clean food philosophy and gives locally-sourced plant ingredients a creative makeover. Here you’ll find roasted vegetable panini, spinach, mushroom & tofu quiche and hummus, carrots, beetroot & cress with cereal bread on the side.

Dessert includes raspberry cheesecake and blueberry & currant scones with vegan clotted cream. Who said dairy-free meant missing out? sofitelsydney.com.au

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Top Tables FRENCH FLAIR

Marsan by Helene Darroze, Paris Twenty years after her debut on the Left Bank in Paris, Hélène Darroze has returned to her roots, reinventing N°4 Rue d’Assas with her new flagship restaurant, Marsan

by Hélène Darroze, originally the site of her Michelin-starred restaurant Hélène Darroze.

As guests ascend the stairs into the main dining room, they are greeted by the restaurant's show kitchen with its own dedicated six-seat chef’s table before encountering an extended display dresser. Here, Hélène has displayed personal objects, as if welcoming guests into her home: pictures of her as a child playing with her brother Marc; drawings of her daughters, Charlotte and Quiterie; a wine list from her grandfather, and her grandmother’s recipe book. The menu, however, is far from homely, with beautifully executed plates including oysters with caviar and glazed beans, and tandoori lobster with mustard, citrus, carrot mousseline and Lampong pepper. The tasting menu includes four dishes, dessert, and the chance to raid the cheese trolley. marsanhelenedarroze.com

Late-night revellery is the name of the game at TMK

LATE NIGHT EATS

TMK, Hong Kong New joint TMK is an unapologetically lively venue that takes its design cues from punk rock to offer a bold take on the traditional Japanese temakeria, with graffitied walls, a tattoo chair and a motorbike all in perfect contrast to the beautifully presented plates. Serving hand rolls, sushi and sashimi, must-try dishes include the crispy Iberico kushikatsu and the chewy textured green tea soba, alongside more inventive takes on the handroll like the salmon taco, which is topped with yuzu mayonnaise and avocado tempura. With a focus on high quality sake, TMK treat guests to its own namesake label, crafted and brought directly to Hong Kong from Japan, with sake served in a wooden masu. Entering TMK, guests are handed a freshly rolled temaki while a team tops up their cup for a sake toast. tmk.hk

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New restaurants worth stepping out in this Autumn in Hong Kong, Paris and Nha Trang Hélène Darroze has returned to Paris to open the restaurant of her dreams

TEA-FOCUSED COCKTAILS

Tell Camellia, Hong Kong Hidden away in a quiet alley of H Code Central, Tell Camellia specialises in tea-infused cocktails mixed up by award-winning bartenders Sandeep Hathiramani and Gagan Gurung. Both veterans of Asia’s fast-expanding bar scene, Hathiramani is the founder of Gin Festival HK and The Bar Awards Hong Kong & Macau, while Gurung is renowned for his use of aromatic herbs, spices and exotic fruits.

The name is inspired by Camellia Sinensis, a species of evergreen shrub that produces the tea plant, and the cocktail menu features teas from Kenya, Turkey, Sri Lanka and Taiwan, with bold mixes that marry the worlds of tea and cocktails blended through modern experimental techniques to produce some truly unique flavours and sensations. tellcamellia.com

Sip on a teainspired cocktail or two at Hong Kong’s Tell Camellia

Top Tables MODERN JAPANESE DINING

Honjo, Hong Kong

The restaurant’s beef range includes dry-aged prime beef from Belgium

ELEVATE YOUR STEAK

37 Steakhouse & Bar, Hong Kong Discerning carnivores will adore 37 Steakhouse & Bar at The Peak, which delivers a dedicated steak experience alongside amazing views over the city from its elevated position. A stylish outpost of the Roppongi hotspot of the same name, the restaurant’s design was overseen by award-winning Japanese designer and artist Yasumichi Morita, who has decked out the 115-seater restaurant in cowhide, oak and brass.

All cuts are cooked in a Spanish Josper Grill, a specialist oven that forms an instantaneous crust around the meat and traps the natural juices to enrich the flavour. The restaurant’s beef range includes USDA prime Black Angus, Cross-bred Wagyu, Hiyama Wagyu, and dry-aged prime beef from Belgium. Cuts include flat iron, striploin, hanging tender, tomahawk and bone-in rib eye, while other beef dishes include A5 Wagyu tacos and the signature Wagyu Burger. Fancy an aperitif? Pull up a stool at the intimate sake bar at the restaurant’s entrance, which features a range of brews from the Sawaya Matsumoto brewery. 37steakhouse.asia

In Nha Trang? Swing

by Ngon Gallery for a sumptuous seafood buffet

Modern Japanese restaurant Honjo celebrates the transformation of Japanese cuisine through cultural influences with a menu that showcases classic and modern dishes, from Japanese wagyu to avocado poke (furikake rice, onsen egg, spicy mayo). The cocktail menu, meanwhile, includes distinct offerings such as the Utsukushi Sour (jasmine tea infused Belvedere vodka, pineapple juice, lemon juice, egg white and angostura bitters infused with nutmeg cordial).

Featuring a series of themed dining rooms – the Tin Toys Lobby, Safari Room, Red Armoury and Blue Suite – Honjo is reminiscent of a 1950s restaurant with a futuristic vibe, with vibrant colours giving way to intricate details like stained glass windows. The restaurant also features a sushi counter, where guests can get their chopsticks round o-toro, which is served with bubu arare, yuzu soy, red onion and basil; and hamachi, with yukari, rocket butter and white soy. honjo.hk

Themed dining rooms make quite the statement at Japanese eatery Honjo

SEAFOOD SPECIALS

Ngon Gallery, Nha Trang, Vietnam Situated at Citadines Bayfront Nha Trang Hotel along Nha Trang beach, Ngon Gallery serves up an international seafood buffet from 5pm-11pm daily. In addition to sashimi and sushi, the menu includes locally-sourced seafood such as lobster, tiger prawns, oysters, octopus, mussels and clams. Created by British Michelin-starred chef John Burton-Race and Iron Chef Vietnam 2012 winner Nguyen Thanh Tung, the restaurant's signature dish, chili lobster, is cooked in a sweet, salty, chili-hot tomato sauce and served with thick slices of toasted bread.

With a design that blends contemporary and industrial, Ngon Gallery is bedecked with parquetry flooring, quaint timber furniture, floor-to-ceiling windows, and racks of wine bottles and ceramic decorations. Live music from a grand piano adds to the vibrant atmosphere created by its series of live cooking stations. ngongallery.com

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Bar Review

URBAN

RETREAT One of London’s most cherished hotels has a new place to drink, snack and people watch following the debut of The Berkeley Bar & Terrace

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here are many reasons to head to leafy Knightsbridge: a stroll around Hyde Park, perhaps, or a leisurely browse in Harrods, Harvey Nichols or one of the neighbourhood’s two Prada stores. The opening of the Berkeley Bar & Terrace inside the Berkeley Hotel provides another reason to head over to one of London’s most wellheeled hangouts.

The sister hotel to Claridge’s and The Connaught already has a prime drinking spot in place with The Blue Bar, which is popular with celebs and renowned for its beautifully presented, vividly coloured cocktails like Kryptonite, a heady mix of Bourbon, mint liqueur, cacao and chocolate absinthe.

Situated on the ground floor, the Bar & Terrace has a more a discreet, secluded feel, which is further accentuated when we step out onto the terrace on a sunny August evening and gaze out at neighbouring St Paul’s Church and pull up a chair at one of four tables. The hourly chiming of the church clock delivers a genteel touch, and the adjacent street is comfortingly quiet.

If you’re the kind of person who enjoys being steered gently through the cocktail menu as staff ponder which mix will best suit your taste preferences, then you’ll adore the Berkeley Bar’s considered, leisurely approach, where nothing is too much trouble and every drink order is thoughtfully

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Chicken tulips on the terrace and private dining room The Snug

appraised. The emphasis here is very much on rediscovering forgotten cocktails, and due to my penchant for gin, staff recommend the Last Word (Bombay Sapphire, Chartreuse Green, maraschino and lime juice), a prohibition-era cocktail with floral notes. My husband opts for a Vieux Carre (Woodford Reserve, Hennessy VSOP, sweet vermouth, Benedictine, Angostura bitters & Peychaud bitters), first popularised in 1930s New Orleans and a mix that’s not dissimilar to his favourite tipple, an Old Fashioned.

Wine lovers will find many vintages not available by the glass elsewhere in London (I opt for a Ken Forrester FMC Chenin Blanc Stellenbosch post-cocktail, which has layers of candied lemon, apricot and vanilla) while the spirits range includes selections from under the radar producers such as Japanese whisky maker Ichiro, tequila producer Fortaleza and rum maker Trois Rivières.

well-stocked humidor on the terrace, cigar smokers are well catered for here, and you can happily puff away without feeling you’re offending anyone.

If alfresco dining isn’t your thing and you prefer a secluded space just for you and your pals, it’s also worth checking into The Snug. Set away from the main bar and seating up to nine guests, its centrepiece is a cool mural depicting gazing female faces with mysterious expressions painted by New York-based artist TM Davy, who was inspired by the original snug spaces in pubs, usually reserved for women, when men and women did not mix socially. With its own sound system and call-for-service button, The Snug is sure to prove popular with Chinese guests, many of whom are used to commandeering their own private rooms in restaurants and bars.

Following the staff’s thoughtful recommendations, we order up the wild seabass ceviche with coconut, yuzu, sesame and dashi, which is enlivened by a slight hint of chilli, and the camembert chicken tulips (pictured), which are stylishly presented on a “tree” for you to graze on once they’ve been liberally smothered in Gochujang emulsion. Other small plates include Cornish crab and lobster beignets, and, if you’re feeling extravagant, Petrossian caviar with buckwheat blinis, sour cream, grated hen’s egg, onions & parsley. With a

After several happy hours spent enjoying the evening sun on the terrace, and watching our cocktails being meticulously mixed, we’re already planning another visit. Spilling out onto the street on a busy Thursday night, we immediately miss the bar’s refined ambience and the contrast underlines the fact that the Berkeley has created something special, an intimate urban retreat in the heart of London.

The Berkeley Bar & Terrace has 40 covers.

Opening hours are 4pm-1am, Monday to Saturday; the-berkeley.co.uk

Make booking in europcar.com with the promo code 53881114

MOVE YOUR SKY

Spirits Ghost whiskies are made using malts from distilleries that have closed down

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ooking for a discerning dram that will add some drama to your drinks cabinet? The consider Johnnie Walker’s Blue Label Ghost and Rare Glenury Royal, the third in the series of special releases crafted using "ghost" whiskies from a small number of iconic distilleries that closed many years ago, making them much sought after in the world of Scotch due to their rarity.

Johnnie Walker Blue Label Ghost and Rare Glenury Royal are crafted using whiskies from long-closed ‘ghost' distilleries

At the heart of this whisky lies the Highland single malt Glenury Royal, from the distillery of the same name that shut its doors in 1985, and one of only three Scottish distilleries to enjoy a royal title. “Shining a light on this hidden treasure of the whisky world is something we've wanted to do for some time. This new limited edition provides us with an opportunity to explore the remarkable layers of rich fruit in Johnnie Walker Blue Label,” says Johnnie Walker master blender Jim Beveridge.

Beveridge and his team have also hand-selected two rare whiskies from the ghost distilleries of Cambus and Pittyvaich, balancing their creamy toffee and butterscotch notes with the orchard fruits, sweet apple and delicate apricot character of Glenury Royal.

Five other rare whiskies from Glen Elgin, Inchgower, Glenlossie, Cameronbridge and Glenkinchie bring waves of vanilla, heather honey and dried fruits that weave through smooth dark chocolate and nutty layers to create an exploration of this 'ghost' whisky.

Available while stocks last, each bottle in this special release is individually numbered. johnniewalker.com

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Watches

Feeling Nautical Franck Muller’s Vanguard Yachting limited edition timepieces commemorate a 20-year partnership with Global Timepieces Embrace your inner sailor with Franck Muller’s Vanguard Yachting watches for men and women.

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aying tribute to the craftsmanship of the seafaring world, the Vanguard Yachting limited edition celebrates the watchmakers’ 20th anniversary of working with high-end watch boutique Global Timepieces, which has several locations across Hong Kong.

As you’d expect from the collection’s name, this limited edition range takes some inspiration from the Vanguard collection but sets itself apart with cool nautical details. Echoing the sleek lines of the Vanguard case, the dial is adorned with appliqué relief numerals, and is complemented by a sporty case. Housing an automatic movement, this maritime-inspired timepiece is the perfect companion the next time you step aboard a yacht, or take part in some watersports. It features a wind rose on the deep blue dial, while an alligator rubber strap adds the final flourish.

The Vanguard Yachting limited edition is available in two distinct versions for men and women. The ladies’ collection is styled with a pink or navy blue alligator rubber strap, while matching coloured stitches add the finishing touch to this feminine timepiece. Both watches are housed in a stainless steel case, are limited to 10 pieces for men and 10 for women, and are available exclusively at Global Timepieces. franckmuller.com

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Watches

Space

Tribute

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Omega celebrates 50 years since the moon landing with limited edition models

t’s been a big year for Omega, with 2019 marking the 50th anniversary of its watch going to the moon. The Omega Speedmaster was, of course, the first timepiece ever to make that journey, with Buzz Aldrin wearing a speedy when he climbed down from the Eagle to reach the lunar surface.

To mark this groundbreaking occasion, the brand has released a range of commemorative pieces, including the Speedmaster Appollo 11 Limited Edition in stainless steel, which is limited to 6,969 pieces. Presented in a 42mm stainless steel case and featuring a polished bezel made from 18k Moonshine gold, a patent-pending alloy that offers high resistance to fading over time, two distinct zones make up the dial, including a varnished central grey zone and an outer black minute track. On the 9 o’ clock subdial is a laser-engraved image of Buzz.

The Omega Apollo 11 50th Anniversary pays tribute to this extraordinary mission.

Distinct from all other indexes, the 11 o’ clock hour marker is formed by an 18k Moonshine Gold number 11, in tribute to the Apollo mission. Featured on the caseback is an image of an astronaut’s footprint, which has been laser-engraved onto a black-coated plate with a moon-surface texture alongside Neil Armstrong’s legendary words, ‘That’s one small step for a man, one giant leap for mankind.’

The NASA-style presentation box features an additional Velcro strap, two mission patches, two engraved plates featuring landing site coordinates and landing site and time and a strap-changing tool, as well as a lunar model display stand. omegawatches.com

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Watches

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ince 1984, the Portofino range has established itself as one of IWC’s most successful watch families, thanks to its minimalistic round case inspired by the classic rounded designs of the 50s and 60s, Roman numerals and simple hour markers that characterise this collection. Small wonder then, that the watch brand has chosen to extend the family with 11 new timepieces, including five smaller models for the women’s collection and six additional watches for the men's line.

This new Portofino watches for women are some of the smallest across IWC’s entire portfolio. With a reduced diameter of 34mm, the five new models hark back to the very first Portofino collection, which had similarly-sized timepieces. Available in either in 18k 5N gold or stainless steel cases, with silver-plated, blue, or green dials, all feature diamonds on

the case or dial. The most prestigious model in the collection is the Portofino Automatic 34 IW357406 (pictured), which features an 18k 5N gold case set with 92 white diamonds. Twelve more diamonds mark the hours, while gold appliqués and gold-plated hands create a cool contrast with the embossed silver-plated dial.

This inventive strap design, meanwhile, enables the wearer to customise their watch to their look. A small tool accompanying each product makes it easy to swap between 12 different strap options in addition to the Santoni black leather alligator strap.

Other new additions to the range include new versions of the Portofino Chronograph and the Portofino Automatic with blue dials. Both designs will be available in either 18k 5N gold or stainless steel, with gold appliqués and goldplated hands. iwc.com

The Portofino range is characterised by its minimalistic round case and simple hour markers

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Watches

A diving classic reinterpreted: the limited edition Sub 200 T.Graph in in stainless steel

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A Vision In Steel Doxa has released a stainless steel version of its iconic Sub 200 T.Graph

fter the success of the 130th anniversary series of its Sub 200 T.Graph in 18k gold at Baselworld 2019, Doxa has launched a stainless steel version limited to 300 pieces.

Considered to be the first purpose-designed diver's watch intended for the general public, Doxa launched its sub concept back in 1967. The first to feature a patented rotating bezel with the official no-decompression dive table, this watch became instantly recognisable due to its striking orange dial – a first for a diving watch.

Features the famous patented unidirectional rotating bezel with the dual indication of dive time in minutes and depth in metres to calculate the dive time without decompression stops, the Sub 200 T.Graph stainless steel is topped by a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal with an antireflective coating. With a diameter of 43mm, it features a SuperLuminova pearl at 12 o’ clock. Just like the original model, the legendary face is finished in semi-matte orange and features two counters, one at 9 o’ clock indicating the seconds, and the other at 3 o' clock indicating the chronograph’s 30 minutes.

This limited steel edition, as was the case with the 18k gold version, is also equipped with historical 7734 Valjoux movements. These original calibers, dating back 30 years, have been carefully preserved by the Swiss family Jenny, which took over ownership of the Doxa brand two decades ago. The famous Doxa “grains of rice” bracelet, also crafted from 316L steel and featuring a folding clasp with diving extension and the Doxa fish symbol, adds the final flourish to this purpose-designed classic. doxawatches.com

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Wishlist Treat the man in your life to some Tiffany bling

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Tiffany has launched two dedicated men’s collections, Tiffany 1837 Makers and Diamond Point hat woman doesn’t appreciate being gifted one of Tiffany’s iconic blue boxes? Now men can get in on the act following the launch of Tiffany Men’s, the luxury house’s newest dedicated men’s collections, Tiffany 1837 Makers and Diamond Point which include jewellery, home & accessories and watches.

Embodying Tiffany’s craftsmanship heritage, the Tiffany 1837 Makers collection is inspired by the jeweller’s tradition of handcrafting sports trophies. Designers experimented with concave and convex forms, flat edges and motifs evocative of utilitarian hardware when creating the pieces in the collection. Stand-out items include the made-to-order Tiffany 1837 Makers trophy ring.

While Tiffany 1837 Makers is artisanal and utilitarian, Diamond Point represents the elevated, classic end of the style spectrum with a strong, graphic pattern. This motif appears as a subtle accent or a prominent overlay on jewellery and home & accessories pieces like the Diamond Point rectangle pendant, cuff or cocktail mixer.

Most of the Diamond Point jewellery designs are die struck and hand polished to achieve the distinctive textured motif.

Already on the look-out for a Christmas gift with the wow factor?

One of the most remarkable items is the handcrafted silver and 18k yellow gold vermeil chess set, while tag pendants and compasses will also make great presents. tiffany.com

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Tech

A pair of premium point and shoots: the Canon Powershot G7 X Mark III and G5 X Mark II

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ON THEGO Enhance storytelling tools with the Canon Powershot G7 X Mark III and boost panoramas with the G5 X Mark II

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roviding those who choose to digitally stream their journeys with live-streaming capability to YouTube via a wireless connection, the PowerShot G7 X III is marketed as the next generation vlogging camera, while the Powershot MG7 x Mark II is a lighter, premium point and shoot.

Key features for both models includes a DIGIC 8 Imaging Processor, 20.1 Megapixel, one-inch stacked CMOS sensor for fast speeds; 4K up to 30p, full HD up to 60p, FHD up to 120p, HDR and high frame rate movie with no crop. Other features include high-speed continuous shooting at a maximum of 20 FPS, the highest ISO speed in the PowerShot category with a maximum of 12,800, plus wifi and Bluetooth connectivity.

A lighter, premium point and shoot camera that touts a new pop-up EVF, touch and drag AF and new optical 5x lens, the PowerShot G5 X Mark II’s panoramic shot feature will satisfy the needs of advanced amateurs. global.canon

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Luggage

Revamp your luggage with a piece from Tumi’s Autumn collection

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f you travel with Tumi, then you’re in good company as it’s the luggage of choice for Hollywood actor Chris Pratt, who kicked off the brand’s Asia Pacific and Middle East campaign earlier this year by demonstrating his packing skills in a video preparing for his first trip to Hong Kong. This season, Pratt returns as the star of Tumi's Asia Pacific and Middle East campaign to discuss his pre-journey routines and preparations.

Just in time for Autumn, Tumi has debuted several new seasonal shades to its collections, including the popular Tumi V4, a durable, lightweight and expandable piece of luggage that’s constructed from a multi-layer polycarbonate alloy formulation.

New shades include deep eclipse blue, raspberry, floral tapestry and collage floral.

Designed for the eternally active, the Tumi Tahoe collection is a tough, durable range designed to be used for work, travel and adventures in the great outdoors. This season's street-inspired designs feature a customisable zipper puller, key leash and updated rain cover design. In addition to core black, the new static grey print has a slightly patterned weave for added texture and dimension.

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Elsewhere, new seasonal colours including brushed blue, featuring a wide paintbrush stroke on the front panel and accented touch points of blue, make their mark on the Tumi Merge and Alpha Bravo collections. Another seasonal print, Camo, has been added to the Alpha Bravo collection. The Tumi Harrison collection, meanwhile, has added navy reflective to its range, which features a silver reflective stripe set against navy nylon.

The brand’s lightest hardside luggage collection, Tumi Latitude, welcomes a continental carry-on to its core colours of black, silver, navy, and women's blush, and the super-lightweight case is now available in purple. tumi.com

Style

Boss has debuted a traceable wool capsule as part of its Autumn/Winter collection

A Six looks across the Boss menswear collection will be made from traceable merino wool

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s consumers become more curious about the fashion supply chain and are more eager than ever to shop ethically, sustainable fashion is going mainstream, with many luxury brands embracing the trend, including Boss, which has launched a traceable wool capsule to keep you warm this season. Â Six looks across the Boss menswear collection will be made purely from traceable merino wool, with the assurance that the entire manufacturing process can be tracked, from the origins of the fabric to the creation of the final piece. The process begins with sheep grown and shorn in New Zealand from accredited ZQcertified farmers. Generating high-quality, ZQ-certified merino wool, animal welfare is safeguarded with the prohibition of mulesing (removal of strips of wool-bearing skin from around the breech of a sheep) and a commitment to social responsibility and environmental protection. The yarn is then spun and the fabric woven at Italian wool mill REDA, before being tailored and produced at the Boss factory in Izmir. Â Featuring business and smart-casual designs, each piece in the capsule has a special hangtag to highlight the journey of traceable wool. The fabric itself is water-resistant and lightweight, with moisture control for lasting comfort. hugoboss.com

Beauty Travel

Pro Filt’r Soft Matte Longwear Foundation

This best-selling foundation revolutionised the beauty counter by being available in 50 different shades – a whole lot more than most other beauty brands offer.

With buildable, medium to full coverage, this oil-free matte foundation is made with climate-adaptive technology that helps fight sweat and humidity. Deciding between two shades? Then Fenty advise opting for the lighter one.

Rihanna's go-to shade is 340, in case you were wondering.

Killawatt Freestyle Highlighter

Fenty’s highlighters are presented in a duo of colours (subtle sheen on the left, supercharged shimmer on the right), so you can keep it restrained during the day and supercharge your glow in the evening by applying more of this cream powder. Use it on face, eyes, along the nosebridge and collar bone. Looking for something more dramatic? Try the Killawatt Foil Highlighter range, which has a metallic, foil-like finish.

Pro Filt’r Amplifying Eye Primer

If you shy away from eyeshadow because the end result isn’t exactly what you had in mind, then this weightless, colourboosting eyeshadow primer is a worthy investment, as it smooths lids for better blending and longer, creaseproof wear. In a rush? Set it first with a light dusting of blotting powder, like Fenty’s Invisimatte.

Gloss Bomb Universal Lip Luminizer

Finish your look by adding the ultimate glossy shine to lips with Rih Rih Gloss Bomb Universal Lip Luminizer, which is available in three colours including the singer’s favourite, Diamond Milk (pictured), a shimmering milky pearl shade. The Fenty Glow (rose nude) and Fu$$y (romantic pink) complete this glossy range, which can be worn over lipstick or on its own. fentybeauty.com

Rihanna's uber successful make-up brand, Fenty Beauty, debuts in Hong Kong and Macau this Autumn. Here are the hero products you need in your carry-on…

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Tee Off

Titleist’s 620 CB and MB irons are proving a big hit with pro golfers after their US Open intro

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ollowing their debut at the US Open, Titleist’s 620 CB and MB irons became two of the most played models on the PGA Tour. Webb Simpson, Jimmy Walker, Byeong-Hun An and Max Homa are among the growing number of players who have put 620 CB and/or MB irons immediately in play.

Refined based on tour player feedback with improved shaping and smoother turf interaction, the Titleist 620 CB and MB irons continue the golf brand’s legacy of delivering tour-proven shot control and feel in precise cavity back and muscle back forgings.

Featuring progressive blade lengths with compact short irons progressing into slightly larger blade lengths at the long end of the set, the profiles of 620 CB and MB have also been matched to make for seamless transitions for the growing number of players with mixed CB and MB sets. The reduced offset enhances workability and shot control, while the co-forged high-density tungsten in the 3- and 4-irons maximises ball speed for more consistent long iron performance. titleist.com

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Allow yourself to be transported around New York with Filmcars, which has a diverse fleet of vintage cars

VINTAGE

VA VA VOOM

Eschew modern-day cabs and cruise New York in retro style instead in one of FilmCars’ vintage autos

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ounting everyone from Mad Men and Cirque du Soleil to Lady Gaga and David LaChapelle among its clients, FilmCars’ fleet of vintage wheels, which include a 1935 Cadillac Eight Series 20 Sedan and 1957 Ford Thunderbird Convertible Coupe, transports clients around New York in retro style. Acting CEO Peter Yannello says the current favourites are the vintage taxicabs, including the legendary Checker, which takes its name from its checkerboard trim.

An iconic sight on the streets of Manhattan, the checker shot to fame in Taxi Driver, when Robert de Niro got behind the wheel of a 1975 A11 for his role as Travis Bickle (Filmcars has Ford Mustang Coupe Checkers from 1966, 1967 and 1969). This is followed closely by the DeSoto 1947 Buick series

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70 roadmap, which has striking two-tone paintwork in scarlet and butterscotch.

Among the other models that Filmcars has in its garages are the 1953 Packard Patrician, which has appeared in films including Batman Forever and The Talented Mr Ripley, and the 1957 Ford Thunderbird Coupe, which has enjoyed a resurgence in popularity in recent years.

While FilmCars is not currently in the practice of arranging for airport transfers, it can arrange pick up and drop off for theatre & dinner arrivals and also offers in-city light touring should you want to get acquainted with the Big Apple from the backseat of a restored vintage motor. It’s a fitting tribute to a city where so many movies have been, and continue, to be filmed. filmcars.com

SPECIAL PROMOTIONAL SECTION

“I must confess

that I like your book as it encourages more international co-operation in various forms!”

Once upon a time, there was a kingdom, where lived over fifty million species altogether. In harmony? Not quite yet unfortunately... this kingdom was called planet Earth, and it was working very hard at making everybody coexist in its biosphere. Its secret was called “ecosystem”, and most species were following the secret except one, which had the ability to act outside of its instinct and change its environment. This species was called humanity, and it created comfort for itself, building infrastructure and products by using energy and machines. In its thirst for pleasures and happiness, it forgot it was part of the ecosystem, which still prevented it to thrive as it dreamed to.

This book critically examines what China’s BRI is about, clarifies the confusion, and answers many questions.

It includes a first-time-ever-published list and statistical tables of all the BRI projects up to December 31st, 2018. This work also demonstrates how instrumental the BRI is to globalization, which in itself is conducive to humanity’s evolution.

It describes humanity’s five key choke points, and apprehends how China and the BRI are addressing them.

“It is an excellent, comprehensive and detailed treatment of the Belt and Road Initiative. This book is far more useful than almost anything written on the topic.” Parag Khanna, Author of Connectography, New York, USA “I trust this book would provide a good road map for policy makers and infrastructure developers in any developing countries amidst complex geo-political circumstances.” Dr. D. J. Pandian, Vice President and Chief

Investment Officer, Asian Infrastructure Investment Bank (AIIB), Beijing, China

Culture

CINEMA Paradiso The Festival de Cannes Film Week will make its Hong Kong debut this November

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week-long celebration of cinema, the Festival de Cannes Film Week will make its Asia debut at Hong Kong’s newlyopened cultural/retail destination, K11 Musea, this November. Taking place from 12-16 November, the event will present six films from the festival on the opening night, while cinema’s brightest lights will also introduce their work and practices through Q&As and masterclasses during the event.

The story of Festival de Cannes Film Week began in Buenos Aires almost ten years ago with the idea of taking the festival on a global journey, say festival president Pierre Lescure, and general delegate Thierry

Frémaux. “At the Festival de Cannes we invite the whole world to come to Cannes to celebrate the art of filmmaking, to discover the latest works of great contemporary directors and to get a taste for what is up and coming in the world of cinema. With our Festival de Cannes Film Week, we hope to initiate the very opposite by taking to the road and bringing the spirit of the festival and the work of artists to other parts of the globe”, say Lescure and Frémaux.

And there’s good news for Hong Kong based, or bound, culture vultures too, as founder of K11 Group Adrian Cheng adds K11 Musea will develop an on-going programme of cultural events following this glittering tribute to contemporary film. k11.com

The Festival de Cannes Film Week at K11 Musea will be the first in a series of cultural events at Victoria Dockside

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