Explorer Magazine November -December 2017 Issue

NOV - DEC 2017

WHERE DO YOU WANT TO GO NEXT?

MAGAZINE

Tracing Viking Routes Sky’s the Limit Auckland’s SkyCity Grand

San Sebastian The Star of Spain

TRAVEL ESSENTIALS

AMERICAN AIRLINES

SEASONAL FESTIVALS

PUBLISHER'S LETTER

Happy Holidays from the Explorer Team

W

elcome to the last issue of Explorer for 2017, and what a year it’s been! We’ve circled and crisscrossed the globe looking for the best destinations and the best travel experiences

for Explorer readers and to be honest, we’re looking forward to some quiet time. Of course, the festive season is a chance for many to travel, if not to visit family then to seek warmer climes, and we have some great suggestions in this issue. We start with the

festivals and events you should be visiting in the coming months, from mega concerts and world music festivals to ancient celebrations that fuse culture and religion. In San Sebastian Matt Flemming follows his taste buds into the Michelin-starred kitchens and rustic cooking clubs of Spain’s gastronomic heartland. At the other end of the world Nick Walton gets nostalgic as he visits Auckland’s SkyCity Grand, one of the best hotels in New Zealand. We have more culinary travel as we head north again, this time to New Orleans, where the influences of many cultures meet in a mesmerising melting pot of flavours and colours. We fly at the pointy end with American Airlines, before Explorer reader Sandra Elliot takes us on a cruise to the lands of the Vikings with Seabourn Cruises. No matter where you’re headed this festive season, we wish you happiness and relaxation, and look forward to guiding to on your travels in the year ahead.

Safe Travels,

David Leung Publisher

CONTRIBUTORS

Isabelle Liu is a passionate

Matt Flemming is a Canadian

Sandra Elliot writes short

traveller, writer and budding photographer based in Hong Kong.

Ever since doing exchanges to New York and San Francisco, she has had the travel bug and when she’s not jetting off on assignment you can find her exploring the latest restaurants and bars in her home town. In this issue she offers the ultimate events for the season ahead.

freelance writer specialising in travel, food and sports. His favourite assignments have seen him follow the Silk Road in Uzbekistan, play with lemurs in Madagascar and journey into the rainforests of Panama’s Darien Province. In this

fiction and travel stories, but her current focus is The Daughter She Must Keep, a novel about the struggles of a second daughter, trying to bring her American military family together and help rebuild postwar Naples, the most bombed Italian city in WWII. In this issue she travels by luxury cruise ship to the land of the Vikings.

issue, Matt explores how San Sebastian in Spain’s Basque Country became an international culinary destination.

WORLD IN PICS

Let There

Hong Kong’s less visited landscapes are captured as part of Hong Kong Tourism Board’s newest campaign. Read more about it in News.

Credit: Jessica Li

Capturingthe beauty of a Sydney nightscape.

Credit: The Star

One of the world’s most famous bridges, The Golden Gate, emerges from the fog. Credit: San Francisco Tourism Association

From frozen landscapes to mes the images capturing our 4

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WORLD IN PICS

e Be Light Fairbanks, Alaska will host the world's largest competition for ice sculptures.

Credit: Explore Fairbanks

Go deep on your next adventure.

Credit: Sultanate of Oman Tourism Sri Lanka is increasingly on the radar of Asia’s foodies.

Credit: Experience Travel Group

A traditional Hawaiian fire dance captures the imagination.

Credit: Grand American Adventures

A captivating night under the stars.

Credit: Tourism Snowy Mountains

smerising cityscapes, these are r imaginations this season.

NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 2017

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WHAT'S HAPPENING

Rio Carnival

February 9 – 13, 2018 Rio de Janeiro, Brazil Attracting millions of revellers to one of the world’s hottest cities each year, the pre-Lent dance party Rio Carnival features over 200 samba schools, including Brazil’s most popular and traditional, Manguiera, which dance in the company of massive floats. The five-day event kicks off with the coronation of the Carnival King, followed by street band performances, choreographed dances, samba parades and numerous grand balls, and ends with a series of high-energy experiences at the city’s popular night clubs. http://www.rio-carnival.net

Carnival of Binche February 11 - 13, 2018 Binche, Belgium

A Unesco-recognised event held three days preceding Ash Wednesday, the Carnival of Binche is a folkloric celebration that originated in the 14th century. With over a thousand Gilles, dressed in joker costumes, along with peasants, Pierrots and harlequins, marching along the Grand Place in the early hours, this festival invites spectators to immerse themselves in the rhythm of drums and viola for an authentic cultural experience. Travellers arriving in the city early can enjoy a sneak peek of the festival with pre-carnival activities including drum rehearsals, orchestral performances, and gala balls. www.carnavaldebinche.be

Battle of the Oranges February 8 - 13, 2018 Ivrea, Italy

A celebration of freedom from a tyrannical lord’s oppression in the 12th century, the Battle of the Oranges draws 100,000 spectators to the Italian town of Ivrea each year. Filled with excitement and energy, the festival sees armoured competitors in horse-drawn carts, representing the duke’s army, and commoners on the ground battling against each other with 500,000 kilograms of oranges. Don’t forget to wear a red headdress if you want to be exempt from the battle. www.storicocarnevaleivrea.it

Harbin International Ice & Snow Sculpture Festival December 24 – February 25, 2018 Harbin, China

Founded in 1963, the Harbin International Ice and Snow Sculpture Festival, held in northern China’s Heilongjiang province, is a themed winter playground where the world's largest ice sculptures are exhibited. Featuring coloured, glowing sculptures made with ice from the Songhua River, complemented by fireworks, ice lanterns, and Chinese New Year carnival activities, the festival is a visually mesmerising experience that’s complemented by a range of winter sports, such as dog-sledging and snowmobiling. www.icefestivalharbin.com 6

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WHAT'S HAPPENING

Festival Nómade Feb 6 - 12, 2018 Santiago, Chile

Indulge in seven days of wellness-inspired experiences in Maipú, Chile at Festival Nómade. Set in a waterfront retreat, this mindrejuvenating event invites tranquillity-seekers to live a nomadic life with a diversity of festivities, from hand-painting, yoga and meditation to dancing, camping and live music performances, while encouraging cultural exchanges and connection with nature. Challenge yourself to finish a 10-kilometre guided hike up to the festival venue, before assembling your own tents for the week-long getaway. www.festivalnomade.cl

Maha Shivaratri Festival February 13, 2018 Kathmandu, Nepal

The Maha Shivaratri Festival, or ‘The Night of Shiva’, is a Hindu celebration held across various countries on the fourteenth night of the lunar month in honour of Lord Shiva. In Kathmandu, the capital of Nepal, the event sees devotees perform ritual worship in the Pashupatinath temple, while the Nepalese army parades around the city, and traditional music and dancing continues through the night. Visitors can then delve into the religion and Nepali tradition at the famous Shiva Shakti Peetham shrine near the event venue. www.mahashivratri.org

Dochula Druk Wangyel Festival December 13, 2017 Dochula, Bhutan

Established in remembrance of Jigme Singye Wangchuck, the fourth king of Bhutan, the Dochula Druk Wangyel Festival is an annual cultural event taking place at the 3,100-metre-high Dochula Pass in the Eastern Himalayan mountains. Backdropped by scenic snow-covered mountain ranges, the festival brings the royal family, ministers, and local and foreign spectators together to enjoy a series of Bhutanese folk and mask dances performed by the Royal Bhutan Army. Leave time for a visit to the iconic Druk Wangyal Lhakhang temple and its 108 chortens before you check the festival off your list. www.tourism.gov.bt

Migrations World Music & Dance Festival January 12 - 14, 2018 Texas, the United States

Inspired by the city’s famous bats colony, the Migrations World Music and Dance Festival by Austin Tribal Collective brings dance and music enthusiasts from around the world to Austin, Texas.

Spanning three days, there are belly dance fusion workshops, various world dance performances, as well as a range of live shows; this year the event will take place at The Bullock Texas State History Museum, in addition to the existing Austin Scottish Rite Theatre and Hampton Inn & Suites Austin venues. www.migrationsaustin.com NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 2017

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NEWS

Hotels Open in Lion City Lifestyle Hub AccorHotels has opened two new hotels at the heart of Singapore's newest integrated lifestyle hub. The Novotel Singapore on Stevens and Mercure Singapore on Stevens are part of a lifestyle destination that features 772 guest rooms, 14 dining outlets, two outdoor pools, and a tennis court. Strategically located at the edge of Orchard Road, the two hotels offer guests great gastronomy, health, fitness and lifestyle experiences as well as close proximity to the city's best shopping and entertainment. Featuring 254 guest rooms, Novotel Singapore on Stevens offers three dining outlets: L'ApĂŠritif Tapas Bar serving signature cocktails and European and Asian tapas; Food Exchange featuring Thai, Indian, European and Singaporean cuisine; and for a refreshing cocktail by the pool, head to the Novotel Infinity Pool. Infused with local design and inspiration, the 518-room Mercure Singapore on Stevens features a gourmet cafĂŠ, Fudebar, which serves superfood including a healthy choice of salads, sandwiches and artisanal coffees, while Winestone restaurant offers Mediterranean food and a wide range of signature wines from around the world. www.accorhotels.com 8

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NEWS

Cocktails to Die For Celebrating the forthcoming release of Agatha Christie’s Murder on the Orient Express with Johnny Depp, Penelope Cruz and Sir Kenneth Branagh as Hercule Poirot, the Manetta’s Bar at London’s Flemings Mayfair hotel has created a series of era-inspired cocktails. Named after the original 1930s Flemings bar, Manetta’s recaptures the spirit of Christie’s crime novels, a place where spies can swap secrets and covert tête-à-tête take place. The hotel has a history with Christie, who based her book At Bertram’s Hotel, on Flemings Mayfair. The four new cocktails are named for the carriages on the Orient Express and include the L’Oriental, a potent, scarlet-red aperitif with Calvados,Dubonnet and Lillet Blanc; and the Cote D’azur, a fragrant combination of Grey Goose L’Orange, fresh lemon juice, blue almond syrup and violet liqueur, which features a deep colour inspired by artist René Lalique’s luxurious glass sculptures which adorn the 1st class carriages of the Orient Express. www.flemings-mayfair.co.uk

An Aman Odyssey How about a private jet jaunt around the world? Aman Resorts, Hotels & Residences has created a 22-day private jet itinerary that combines its properties in nine countries. The Private Jet Expedition, a partnership with travel company Remote Lands, departs April 2018 and jets just 16 guests around the globe in a luxurious Airbus ACJ319 corporate plane. There are opportunities to visit Tokyo during the Sakura season, visit the new Amanyangyun in eclectic Shanghai, and sun worship on Vietnam’s idyllic Vinh Hy Bay and Phuket’s west coast, before boarding two smaller G200 jets to visit the Himalayan kingdom of Bhutan, home to two Aman retreats. In India guests will delve into the rich tapestry of Rajasthan before flying to Athens for a helicopter transfer to Amanzoe in the hills of the Peloponnese. After visiting Montenegro’s iconic islet of Sveti Stefan, guests will finish their journey in Venice, with time for tours of Piazza San Marco, the Doge’s Palace and the Rialto Market before a farewell dinner is served beside the Grand Canal. www.aman.com

Beachfront Retreat Families and couples looking to get away from the city’s bustle can enjoy a beachside vacation at Renaissance Hotel’s first resort in Pattaya, Thailand. The Renaissance Pattaya Resort and Spa features 257 rooms, each with a natural, waterfront-inspired design with wood and metal finishes in earthy tones, reminiscent of the town’s heritage of a fishing village. The 128sqm Beachfront Jacuzzi bedroom villa features a king sized bed, a separate living room, two bathrooms with bathtubs and showers, and a balcony overlooking the ocean. For families travelling with children, the retreat’s kids pool, kids club, and luxury spa ensure both adults and young travellers are entertained throughout the day. Meat lovers will love Pebble Bar and Grill’s servings of fine beef cuts, while the R-Lounge is an ideal spot for a relaxing evening tipple. www.marriott.com NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 2017

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NEWS

A New Side to the Fragrant Harbour

Hong Kong may be known as a modern and cosmopolitan city, famous for its myriad skyscrapers, but the Hong Kong Tourism Board (HKTB) is aiming to shed light on a different side with its latest campaign, Hong Kong's Great Outdoors. The new campaign encourages travellers to don their active gear and set out to explore a more organic side of the city, one that is far removed from its buzzing urban centre. HKTB has recruited a handful of local photographers, including landscape photographer and a Hong Kong National Geographic 2013 photography winner Will Cho; veteran outdoor sports photographer Elvis Mo; Nature Conservancy 2017 photography winner Jessica Li; and renowned photographer Romain Jacquet Lagreze, to capture the city’s off-the-radar landscapes, which travellers can experience firsthand by following a series of self-guided trails in HKTB's Your Guide to Hiking & Cycling in Hong Kong. The guidebook is available from visitor centres around the city or as an e-guide and is divided into three different themes: Hiking in Heritage; Picture-Perfect Vistas; and Geological Wonders, with each section detailing suggested trails, along with the estimated time required and difficulty levels. The guidebook also features cycling trails for those who are keen to explore at a slightly faster speed. www.discoverhongkong.com

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NEWS

W Goes Off Duty

W Hotels has unveiled its exclusive “Off Duty” Closet, the latest project inspired by the iconic lifestyle brand's Global Fashion Innovator, Joan Smalls. W Hotels and creative director Sarah Easley will debut 25 items inspired by Smalls' own jet setting style. The Closet is available globally as of today only through W Hotels The Store. Smalls has been putting her passion to work with W since March 2017, developing insider guides and shaping the brand's global fashion platform with an expert eye. Curated by Easley to reflect Smalls' personal style, the “Off Duty” Closet includes pieces from seven top designers who have created signature items for the Closet's limited release. In light of the recent disaster in Puerto Rico and in honour of Smalls' passion for her heritage, Smalls will dedicate all of her royalties from the “Off Duty” Closet to Unidos For Puerto Rico, a generous donation that will be matched by W Hotels in support of ongoing relief efforts. www.starwoodhotels.com

The Gold Coast a Winner with Backpackers

Australia’s Gold Coast has been named 'Best Destination' at the 11th TNT Golden Backpack Awards, reaffirming the popularity of the destination amongst one of the regions fastest growing sectors.

Backpackers voted the Gold Coast a clear favourite ahead of Noosa, the Whitsundays, Cairns, Melbourne and Fraser Island. More than 300,000 international travellers aged between 15 and 29 visit the Gold Coast annually and numbers are on the rise. In September, Gold Coast Tourism partnered with Hostelworld, the largest online hostel booking site, to create the world's first temporary fully-functional Sand Hostel, at Broadbeach. Perched on the foreshore at Kurrawa Terrace, the event played out on television, radio and online globally reaching hundreds of thousands of people who were greeted with enviable coastal panoramas. www.destinationgoldcoast.com

Sanctuary Retreats Unveils New Serengeti Camp

Luxury safari specialist Sanctuary Retreats launches the exclusive Sanctuary Kichakani Serengeti Camp in Tanzania this month. This extraordinary new escape, which will be based in three set locations across the Serengeti, offers guests an unrivalled, front row experience of the movement of a million-plus wildebeest and zebra as they follow the fresh grasses across the Serengeti plains during the annual migration season. Kichakani is a Swahili word meaning 'in the bush' and Sanctuary Kichakani Serengeti Camp will offer ten luxury tents which can be packed up and moved along in a style evocative of the pioneering explorers of the 19th century, yet with all modern comforts.

An elegant and contemporary take on the classic camp style, the new fivestar tents will offer distinct and stylish accommodation under canvas.

Handcrafted luggage, easy chairs and characterful cabinets and desks, have all been designed to be perfectly portable. Each tent has a personal attendant and a private wooden deck on which to enjoy a just-brewed cup of Tanzania's finest coffee whilst the ensuite bathrooms feature authentic bucket showers.

Evenings can be spent gathered by the traditional fire pit exchanging stories under starry skies and listening to fascinating tales of wildlife encounters from the passionate guides. www.sanctuaryretreats.com NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 2017

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SPAIN

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SPAIN

star of

spain Matt Flemming travels to San Sebastian to

investigate how the city got all its Michelin Stars.

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SPAIN

In a country with an abundance of exceptional local restaurant scenes, San Sebastian seems an unlikely place to be dubbed Spain’s culinary mecca and no less than one of the greatest food cities in the world. It begs the question: How did San Sebastian earn its world renown?

This reputation is often attributed to its remarkable Michelin stars per capita ratio – eight restaurants garnered a total of 16 stars in the 2016 edition of the guide. In fact, only eight eateries in Spain were deemed worthy of three stars, and three of them – Arzak, Martin Berasategui and Akelarre – are in San Sebastian.

The fine dining accolades are the result of a centuries-old food culture, a pair of influential historical events, the area’s excellent terroir, as well as a group of chefs who San Sebastian has no shortage of charms. The crescent- revolutionised Basque cooking. And the spectrum of shaped La Concha Bay and its beachfront Belle Epoque food experiences in San Sebastian extends beyond fine character are iconic, flanked by Mount Urgull and its dining, to the many pintxos bars, gastronomy clubs, cider imposing statue of Christ in the east and Mount Igueldo houses and markets found throughout the city. and its funicular on the west. The cobblestoned streets of the historic Old Town are at the heart of the city’s Some of the city’s most important institutions are its cultural identity. gastronomy clubs. These exclusive societies provide a With a population of less than 200,000 residents, San Sebastian has the vibe and the pace of a small town, where Basque traditions are maintained and local businesses and products are valued above all else.

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space for members to cook with friends and family and dine in a restaurant setting. Chef Pedro Subijana of threestarred Akelarre claims that these clubs emerged from the ruins of the Siege of San Sebastian in 1813, during which much of the city was destroyed.

SPAIN

“The people of San Sebastian held meetings to discuss how the city would be reconstructed,” says Subijana. “And at these meetings, they cooked together — that’s how gastronomy clubs were invented.”

These clubs introduced cooking as a competitive sport into the everyday lifestyle. “A long time ago, they used to be only for men. So there was competition among the society members to be the best cook but also among their wives, who wanted to cook well enough to give their husbands a reason to eat at home.

Competition is always positive - the level gets higher when there is competition,” says Subijana.

Decades later, San Sebastian was transformed into a resort town when it became known as a high society retreat popular with Spanish royalty and later as something of a Spanish Monte Carlo – a grand casino (now San Sebastian’s ornate city hall) was built in 1897 and operated until the Franco-era brought about the prohibition of gambling. Spain’s aristocrats arrived with servants, drivers and cooks in tow, but also hired local residents to work in their kitchens. San Sebastian was left with a workforce of chefs who were skilled in cooking for the upper class. This era, according to Subijana, was when the seeds for San Sebastian’s fine dining scene were sown.

Subijana and Juan Mari Arzak are two of the fathers of New Basque Cuisine, a movement they began with 10 other local chefs in the 1970s. This modern take on traditional Basque cuisine not only brought the city to the forefront of Spanish cooking, it was extremely influential on the nation’s fine dining scene as a whole. Subijana and Arzak didn’t seek to reinvent Basque cooking; instead they pursued a philosophy of experimentation and collaboration. New

Basque Cuisine also embraces a scientific understanding of cooking and the use of modern technological techniques in the kitchen.

“We wanted to build something together,” says Subijana. “As chefs, we had no secrets. We opened the doors to our kitchens to show others what we were doing. We felt free to try new things, to adopt new ideas and to create new dishes that were based on traditional Basque cooking."

Subijana says that while a healthy sense of competition still exists, it is not unusual for San Sebastian’s star chefs to get into the kitchen and cook a meal together at a gastronomy club. He and the other founders of New Basque Cuisine also work to mentor talented young chefs in their kitchens, and also through the Basque Culinary Center, an education and research facility.

Luis Andoni Aduriz of Mugaritz spent time working at both Akelarre and Arzak NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 2017

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SPAIN before opening his own restaurant. Aduriz has gone on to become arguably Spain’s foremost culinary creative genius – he spends four months each year researching new dishes and planning a new menu that provides a full sensory experience. Mugaritz is currently ranked seventh on the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list, and for good reason. Edible cutlery, edible river stones and even edible centrepoint are some of the surprises that await guests.

While most visitors may come to the city for the Michelin stars, a night spent exploring the pintxos bars in the Old Town is just as much of a quintessential San Sebastian experience. Pintxos, the Basque equivalent of tapas, are served up on large platters on bar countertops. Guests can walk in and help themselves to these two-or-three bite dishes as bartenders serve up glasses of txakoli, a local sparkling white wine. Local residents love to bounce from one eatery to the next, sampling and snacking while drinking and socialising in a friendly and convivial atmosphere.

The Gilda, a concoction that consists of an anchovy, pickled peppers and olives on a toothpick soaked in oil, is the classic pintxo – a salty, savory and sour snack consumed in one quick bite. Other cold pintxos include Bayonne ham, deviled eggs, olives, Russian salad,

anchovies and shrimp served on small slices of bread. Most shops will have a small menu of hot items prepared to order, which may include Bechamel croquettes, Spanish omelets and garlic potatoes.

But there is no shortage of pintxos bars serving more modern takes on the common pintxo. A Fuego Negro, Bar Antonio and La Cuchara San Telmo are three such bars, which play with textures and ingredients in crafting some of the city’s best small dishes.

The Basque flavour palette is on display each day at the city’s La Bretxa Market near the Old Town. At the heart of Basque cooking is a heavy dose of fish including hake, cod, eel, sole and anchovies -- add to that locally raised beef and lamb, as well as game meats, cured meats, chorizo and goat cheese.

Fresh vegetables such as mushrooms, asparagus, artichokes, tomatoes and peppers are also central elements of local cooking.

Rounding out the quintessential culinary experiences in San Sebastian are the cider houses. Found in the countryside villages surrounding the city, these purveyors of hard cider typically offer traditional set menus that consist of massive T-bone steaks, roast cod filets, and codfish omelets, with sheep’s cheese, quince paste and walnuts for dessert – along with all the cider you can drink.

Any foodie’s expectations for a tour of San Sebastian are sure to be sky high but given the dedication to culinary craft that exists here and the host of delectable food experiences, it’s hard to imagine anyone would award this city anything less than three stars.

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ESSENTIALS The recently released Sony Cybershot DSCHX80 features a 24-720mm F3.5-F6.4 zoom lens, representing a powerful 30x optical zoom that makes it ideal for travellers looking to get up close and personal with wildlife. Boasting an electronic viewfinder, an 18Mp BSI-CMOS sensor, built-in wireless connectivity, and optical image stabilisation, the HX80 packs a lot of power into a class-leading compact body. A 921k dot LCD screen that tilts 180 degrees makes it ideal for budding photographers looking to forge their own style. www.sony.com The new Canon EOS M100 camera is not only a stylish addition to your carry on, but is packed with features and cutting-edge technology. The successor to the EOS M10 interchangeable lens camera, the compact mirrorless EOS M100 is an easy-to-use yet powerful camera, ideally suited for travellers looking to step up from smartphone photography. The EOS M100 camera is boosted by a powerful 24.2-megapixel APS-C CMOS sensor and the Canon DIGIC 7 processor, which is capable of rendering incredible details even when zoomed in on distant subjects or shooting in low-light scenarios. Packed with high-end features like Dual Pixel CMOS AF, which enables high-speed focusing, and video mode, novice and enthusiast photographers alike will appreciate the tremendous capabilities of the newest member of the EOS family. www.canon.com

SMALL BUT

MIGHTY

These new digital cameras are packed with features but offer significant weight reductions over their bigger DSLR counterparts.

Half the size of most DSLRs, but with the flexibility of a mirrorless interchangeable lens system, the new Panasonic Lumix GX85 features a 16Mp four-thirds sensor, 4k video capability, and a new five-axis dual image stabiliser, making it a new best friend for low light photographers. Small and lightweight, the GX85 also offers Post Focus and Depth from Defocus AF features, as well as a redesigned shutter mechanism that ensures crisp, sharp images every time. www.panasonic.hk

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A TRAVELLER’S BEST FRIEND

ESSENTIALS

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For the ultimate travel companion, the Venturesafe EXP45 anti-theft 45L carry-on travel pack by luggage security specialists Pacsafe is a savvy travel essential with a few hidden charms.

In addition to its simplistic, contemporary looks, and its carry-on friendly capacity, the EXP45 is a workhorse of a backpack; wear it on your back thanks to rugged yet comfortable shoulder straps, or carry it as luggage thanks to a thick side handle, with the backpack straps secreted in a zippered compartment. There’s a front zippered compartment with two zippered mesh pockets for small items and a larger pocket for a tablet or 13-inch laptop; more mesh pockets in the cavernous interior; padded sternum and waist belts; and comfortable moulded EVA backing with air flow channels.

However, you buy a Pacsafe bag to foil thieves, and the EXP45 not only features puncture resistant ToughZip technology on external zippers; builtin lightweight eXomesh slashguard panels protecting the bag's front, bottom and sides; and interlocking zipper pulls; but an included stainless-steel locking cable allows you to secure your bag to poles, beams or fences via the proprietary Roobar locking system. From US$175.95; www.pacsafe.com

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ESSENTIALS

WATER:

IT’S KINDA ESSENTIAL Clean water is essential when you’re exploring far from home.

Fortunately, Seattle-based Grayl has created a 16oz water filtration cup that gives you peace of mind and a drink in one light-weight package.

Designed similar to a French Press, this revolutionary cup is made up of two vessels – press one cup into the other and out comes safe, portable drinking water, 99.9% free of viruses, bacteria, arsenic, lead, pesticides and protozoa. There’s no batteries, no UV lights, and you don’t have to suck or pump, just press for approximately 20 seconds and drink. There’s also no leakage, making Grayl an essential when you’re hitting the hiking trails or heading further abroad. The creation of entrepreneur Nancie Weston, Grayl uses advanced G3+ filtration technology and refillable cartridges, each good for up to 300 filtered portions, ensuring whatever resides in the local aqua doesn’t end up residing in you. US$60; www.thegrayl.com

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HOTEL REVIEW

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HOTEL REVIEW

Sky’s the Limit

SkyCity Grand set the benchmark for five-star hotels when it opened in New

Zealand’s largest city. Nick Walton discovers the Grand continues to define luxury travel in Auckland over a decade later.

I

remember it like it was yesterday, or so the adage goes; the opening party of the SkyCity Grand was the Auckland party to attend in 2005, with celebrities, politicians and yes, even All Blacks in attendance. The new hotel, the first truly luxurious house of slumber to open in the city in an age, was the talk of the town, and everyone, from captains of industry to lowly journalists, were clambering to book a staycation or reserve a table at one of the Grand’s restaurants. So, it’s comforting that, more than a decade late to the party, when I finally do arrive to check in, SkyCity Grand looks better than ever.

Nestled within a city block-sized complex that houses a casino, convention space, countless restaurants and bars, and a host of heart-stopping tourist attractions, all in the shadow of the city’s iconic 328-metre high Sky Tower, SkyCity Grand is what true five-star hotels are supposed to be, a destination in of itself. In fact, the hotel has helped revitalise the whole neighbourhood, with Federal Street, a narrow pedestrian-friendly lane that bisects the complex, now one of the hottest dining enclaves in the country.

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HOTEL REVIEW There’s touches of the Big Apple in the Grand’s cavernous lobby, a space punctuated by bold New Zealand art, gleaming marble and dark leather – the effect is modern without being ostentatious. The mix of guests making their way through the space run the gamut from couples visiting from out of town, to corporates toting briefcases, to locals arriving for meals at the three restaurants located at street level. The vibe is cool, calm and collected without being fussy – just the way New Zealanders like things.

think), and a chic bathroom with bathtub and Puriri amenities. While even the entry level rooms are a step up on anything else in the city, if you’re looking to splurge you can’t go past one of the hotel’s Grand Presidential Suites, with their butler’s pantry, dining table for ten, magnificent views and white marble-lined bathroom.

The bold, unashamedly modern lines of the lobby extend to the hotel’s 316 guest rooms, which are scattered across five categories. My Premium Luxury Harbour View Room is well-lit and airy, with blonde timber floors, beige carpets and captivating views west down the length of the Waitemata harbour. There’s a king-sized bed, a spacious work desk with international power sockets (not as common as you might

People stay at SkyCity Grand because they like to be close to the action, especially if they’re foodies. The complex presently boasts more than a dozen restaurants, ranging from casual grab-and-go to the city’s leading fine dining institutions. For a quick bite without the fuss there’s Andy’s Burgers & Bar; chef Al Brown's Depot, home to charcoal grilled dishes; Gusto at the Grand, a rustic Italian restaurant; and Federal Delicatessen, a take on an oldschool NYC Jewish deli that’s also one of the city’s leading houses of mixology. But SkyCity Grand is also home to groundbreaking eateries like multi-award winning Masu by Nic Watt; innovative Spanish eatery Bellota; and the lauded Grill by Sean Connolly.

But the hotel’s most exciting culinary venture opens this month in the form of Huami, a new Shanghainese restaurant that takes its inspiration from the heyday of the French Concession. Kiwi chef Nic Watt has collaborated with executive chef Jeff Tan to create an eatery that honours and innovates on traditional Chinese fare, using the best locally-sourced ingredients, including New Zealand abalone and crayfish.

If guilt over your indulgences kicks in, you can head to the Grand’s fitness centre, or take a few laps of the 25-metre pool.

Alternatively, East Day Spa Auckland, crowned the best hotel spa in New Zealand, is only steps away and blends eastern healing traditions with modern spa and beauty therapies. With any luck, at the end of your treatment you’ll look as good as Auckland’s true Grand Dame hotel.

SkyCity Grand, Corner Victoria and Federal Streets, Auckland, New Zealand; Tel: +64 9 363 6000; www.skycityauckland.co.nz

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GRAZIN'

NEW ORLEANS

NEW ORLEANS

While the French Quarter has and always will be an iconic New Orleans destination – home to Café du Monde, quintessential New Orleans restaurant K Paul’s, and a slew of other culinary institutions – modern foodies would be remiss by not exploring flourishing new neighbourhood and the top-tier talent and surprises they showcase.

Carrolton neighbourhood/Oak Street A streetcar ride to historic Oak Street in Uptown New Orleans’ Carrolton neighbourhood – a burgeoning culinary and entertainment destination. Home to NOLA music institution Maple Leaf and award-winning JacqueImo’s restaurant, the Oak Street corridor is at once a neighbourhood community and a tourism destination. The opening of several new markets, eateries and bars are evidence of a resurgence of this district.

At the recently-opened DTB (which stands for Down the Bayou), Commander’s Palace alum Chef/Owner Carl Schaubhut delivers modern interpretations of Southern Louisiana’s coastal cuisine, recreating the region’s antiquated dishes with refined technique and a lighter, more creative twist. Diners can expect culinary delights such as Crawfish Fry Bread with green chilli fonduta; Mushroom

Boudin Balls – which just happen to be vegan; and Cacio e Pepe – a Cajun play on the Italian classic with house made cayenne spaghetti, tossed in crabfat butter and garnished with trout roe. Cocktails, created by award-winning libations maven Lu Brow, complement the Chef’s savoury menu and focus on creative concoctions using Louisiana ingredients. The Fire on the Bayou features Baton Rouge-based Magnolia vodka, Lillet and house made pepper jelly, served as a ‘shot’ alongside a pony beer to lessen the heat.

Next door to DTB is Simone’s Market which opened in late 2016 and offers locally and regionally sourced produce, meats and an array of prepared foods. Jump across the street to Oak Wine Bar and Ale on Oak craft beer bar, both owned by New Orleanian Katie Winters. With a menu crafted by Chef Aaron Burgau of Patois and live music throughout the week, there’s something for everyone at these sister hotspots. Other mustvisit spots on Oak Street include Cowbell, Jacque-Imo’s and late-night music haunt the Maple Leaf.

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NEW ORLEANS

Oretha Castle Haley Boulevard/Central City Once a thriving mecca for New Orleans’ Jewish and African-American communities, Oretha Castle Haley Boulevard (OCH), formerly known as Dryades Street, is now becoming a beacon for food culture, history, and commerce. First stop for any foodie is the Southern

Food & Beverage Museum (SoFAB)/Museum of the American Cocktail (MOTAC) – a non-profit shrine to the food, drink & culture of the South. SoFAB examines and celebrates all the cultures that have come together through the centuries to create the South’s unique culinary heritage. SoFAB also hosts special exhibits, demonstrations, lectures and tastings that showcase this heritage. On Mondays and Thursdays, guests can also attend interactive lunch demonstrations in the Museum’s state-of-the-art Rouses Culinary Innovation Center.

Step out of SoFAB and visit the John & Bonnie Boyd Hospitality & Culinary Library, certain to keep any foodie enthralled for hours. This culinary branch of the New Orleans Public Library is the largest such library in

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the United States not connected with a culinary school or food corporation. This niche collection contains astounding 17,000 cookbooks, ranging from those wonderful community cookbooks with plastic bindings to bestsellers from professional chefs and food writers. Chef Paul Prudhomme willed his entire collection to the library, and here you'll find papers from Southern food pioneer Louis Osteen.

After getting your culinary culture on, walk across the street to Dryades Public Market. Just opened last year, this unique affordable marketplace is a modern version of Dryades Market which in 1849, served as the city’s public market. Butchers, food stalls and fresh produce make any foodie drool.

OCH is also home to some incredible dining spots including Adolfo Garcia’s Primitivo; Mexican hotspot Casa Borrega and Roux Carré – a multi ethnic collection of food stalls with multiple vendors spanning an array of cuisines.

NEW ORLEANS

Lower Decatur/Lower French Quarter Past Bourbon Street and the French Market deep into the bottom of the French Quarter, cocktail enthusiasts and discerning diners will find a multitude of options on Lower Decatur Street. When Neal Bodenheimer, owner of James Beard finalist Cure cocktail bar opened Cane & Table, he revitalised a corridor of the Lower French Quarter and made the area a destination for craft cocktail lovers.

On the same block, Chef Michael Isolani and developer Hugh Uhalt recently transformed the former Maximo’s space with a US$1 million-dollar makeover into Trinity which has been touted as one of the city’s best restaurants by Conde Nast Traveler and Opentable. With a varied menu that pays tribute to the amalgamation of ethnicities that make up the very unique and easily recognisable flavour of New Orleans food culture, Isolani focuses on sourcing the best local products and using familiar ingredients to create unfamiliar dishes. Diners can expect bright, creative and adventurous dishes such as Crawfish and Fontina Beignets with tarragon aioli; Frog Leg Tempura with cilantro ponzu sauce; and Foie Gras Tourchon & Blood Sausage.

Other Lower Decatur must-dos are Molly’s on the Market and Coop’s Place – a hole in the wall known for their rabbit & sausage jambalaya.

Warehouse District/Central Business District (CBD) No visit to New Orleans would be complete without dining in the Warehouse District and the CBD – a concentrated area of some of the most critically-acclaimed Chefs in the city.

Since opening in June 2015 Compere Lapin, Chef Nina Compton’s beloved New Orleans restaurant in the Old No. 77 Hotel, has received critical acclaim including a rave review in The New York Times, Top 10 Winner of Playboy's Best New Bars in America 2016 and “Best New Restaurant” nods by New Orleans Magazine and TimesPicayune. Compton who was named a James Beard Award 2017 finalist for “Best Chef South” and is one of the “Best New Chefs in America 2017” according to Food & Wine, helms the neighbourhood restaurant, creating robust dishes that meld the flavours of her Caribbean upbringing and love for French and Italian cuisine; while highlighting the Gulf and Louisiana’s beautiful indigenous ingredients. Diners won’t want to miss her signature Curried Goat with sweet potato gnocchi, Cold Smoked Tuna Tartare and Hot Fired Chicken. With a beverage programme overseen by nationallyrenowned Head Bartender Abigail Gullo, Compère Lapin is one of the hottest restaurants in NOLA. Just a stone’s throw away is Meril – the latest restaurant from celebrity Chef Emeril Lagasse. Meril is a departure from Lagasse’s other ventures and showcases an impressive menu of globallyinspired small plates, all meant to be shared. The open kitchen allows diners to take in the action and get a glimpse of Lagasse who is often found at the helm with Chef de Cuisine Will Avelar. Crispy turkey necks and tuna tacos are not to be missed.

Within this few block radius, foodies will also find award-winning restaurant Sac-a-Lait by husband & wife chef team Samantha and Cody Carrol; the famed Cochon and Peche restaurants by Donald Link; and Lagasse’s first and flagship restaurant, Emeril’s.

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AIRLINES

STYLE

FIRST IN

Background American Airlines offers the only true international first-class product in North America, extending its premium product to its Boeing 777-300ER aircraft flying between Asia and Dallas and Los Angeles.

Check In/The Lounge After an efficient check in process I made my way to American Airlines’ Admirals Club and its makeshift Flagship Lounge, a space reserved for first class passengers while the new lounge is under construction. This is a basic but serenely quiet space, with armchairs, bar tables, work stations, and a buffet selection in an adjacent room. There’s a great bar set up, a busy coffee machine, and access to well-maintained shower suites. The new-look Flagship Lounge, when it opens at the end of the 26

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Despite the decline of first class across the airline industry, American Airlines still strives to offer the ultimate flying experience in its First-Class cabin on its Transpacific flights between the US and Asia, discovers Nick Walton.

year, promises to be spectacular, offering restaurantstyle dining, make-your-own-cocktail stations, and dedicated shower suites.

The Seat We were first to board the 777-300ER, which featured eight first class seats in a 1-2-1 configuration.

American Airlines’ Flagship Suite seat is spacious, modern and elegant; it looks like something you’d find in a private jet, with plush leather, plenty of storage space, a 17-inch personal monitor, and multiple seat configurations - turn it towards the spacious shelf and you have a desk, turn towards your seat mate (in the case of centre seats) and you have dining for two. There’s a built-in USB-equipped recess for smartphones; a pair of international AC sockets; and blissful AA branded Bose noisecancelling headphones.

AIRLINES Once passengers found their seats, cheerful but slightly flustered crew served glasses of sparkling wine (I opted to wait for the Laurent Pierrer Grand Siecle Champagne on the menu), warm smoked almonds, stylish leather amenity kits by Cole Haan (although they were not the airline’s new international version) and sets of signature pajamas.

Dining American Airlines has worked hard to offer a market-leading dining experience in first class, with a menu of small dishes that allows passengers the chance to linger their way through a multi-course meal paired with world-class wines selected by Intervine and Ken Chase. Unfortunately, as he took orders the purser persuaded each passenger not to order multiple small dishes, but to simply choose an appetiser and main. I opted for a heirloom tomato salad with Italian buffalo milk mozzarella and macadamia pesto; followed by King Salmon and prawns with champagne risotto and pumpkin, which I matched with a Pascal Jolivet Les Terres Blanches from Pouilly-Fume. I skipped dessert, which included a choice of the airline’s signature ice cream sundae; mixed berry pavlova; and poached pear with warm red wine sauce. Breakfast, served 90 minutes before arrival included the choice of an American breakfast with scrambled eggs, Applewood bacon and roasted potatoes; chow mein noodles with beef brisket; or a continental breakfast of yogurt and granola.

The dinner dishes were well proportioned and perfectly nice, but I hazard a guess the overall dining experience would have been much better if offered the way it was designed.

Entertainment American Airlines’ entertainment system is one of its leading

drawcards and the ability to not only connect to wifi (unlimited for US$19) but also connect your own device is great. Even after multiple long-haul flights with the airline over a space of a few months I still found plenty of television shows and movies to enjoy.

Service Even in first class, where American Airlines’ crew should be performing at their peak, service still needs refinement and consistency. Some cabin attendants had finesse and whisked passengers away to the golden era of flying, with a great understanding of the wine list and a sense of pedigree you’d expect in a fine-dining restaurant; others didn’t seem to see a distinction between cabins and brutishly fussed through the dinner service like they were working coach. When it came to getting some sleep, passengers made up their own beds, while crew retreated to the galley, staying there for much of the flight.

What We Loved I can honestly say this was the most comfortable seat I’ve ever slept in. I also love the overall intuitive design.

What We Didn’t As a big fan of American’s business class product, I find first class to lack privacy. Service needs a shakeup.

Summary American Airlines has all the competitive hardware components to offer a world-class product, but the airline’s cabin crew need to get onboard. Even with its compelling business class product, the carrier’s first-class offering would maintain the old-world charms of flying’s luxury heyday, and seduce premium travellers in the process, if only it was executed as it was intended.

American Airlines Hong Kong-Los Angeles in First Class from US$7,052; www.aa.com NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 2017

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VIKING

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VIKING

Tracing

Viking Routes

Explorer reader

Sandra Elliot recounts a recent cruise holiday to the land of the Norsemen.

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VIKING

“People on the edges are more creative and resourceful than those in the middle. Their survival requires it,” said Colleen Batey, member of the Seabourn Ventures Team. Her words filled me with wonder. I met Colleen on the Seabourn Quest, a 458-passenger cruise ship, as we sailed the south coast of England. I’d always been intrigued by the Vikings, how they’d enter a village and take it over, the way they went berserk in combat, and their skill in melting precious artifacts into coins. They knew how to get what they wanted. What could we learn from them?

Dover’s white cliffs gleamed in afternoon light as we set sail on a twenty-three-day adventure, following routes the Norsemen used from the 800s to the early 1400s. In an era when many still believed the world was flat, the Vikings pillaged the British Isles and western France, and started settlements in Iceland, Greenland, and North America.

Overcast shades of apricot, blue, and gray often filled the sky as the ship sailed from port to port. Near Staffa Island, guests donned warm coats and boarded zodiacs to Fingal’s Cave, known for its distinctive hexagonal columns and weird echoes that inspired Felix Mendelssohn’s famous Fingal’s Cave Overture. Most passengers had never been in the little black rubber boats, but they loved the early-morning adventure.

I’m allergic to cold. Even with a Seabourn outfit, I wouldn’t have survived the Arctic outdoors. “There are many ways to enjoy adventures,” the hotel director assured. We proceeded to Stornoway, Isle of Lewis, Outer Hebrides, Scotland, where the sea had uncovered an iron-age village with a Viking longhouse. That 30

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warmish afternoon, we toured the area. Like the original, the reproduction of an ancient sod house was set on a verdant knoll covered in bright yellow wild flowers, overlooking a sandy beach a stream — a magnificent place.

On the island of Heimaey, Iceland, passengers visited an early Viking settlement amidst a vast natural amphitheater shared with a fine golf course. “Touching original Viking stones filled me with wonder,” a passenger said. “Then, I looked around and realised there was much still to be uncovered.”

Over the past decade Reykjavik, Iceland’s capital, has become a thriving metropolis with a beautiful port, sleek hotels, enticing cafes, and boutiques with designer clothes. Builders constructing a new

VIKING hotel had to modify their plans when they discovered original Viking structures. That settlement became “Reykjavik 871 plus/minus 2 (years)”, a museum with a longhouse and other remnants. Iceland’s history is recounted at the Saga Museum.

The evening of our sojourn to Isafjordur, Iceland, we had a Vikinginspired dinner, based on the food of Norway. Cod, salmon, and other seafood were served in a variety of ways. “Our menus are a balance of the exotic and the acceptable, with locally sourced food whenever possible,” the chef said. Like most of the Seabourn cuisine, that meal was outstanding.

On a bright sunny day, we cruised Prince Christian Sound, a Greenland fiord with glaciers and icebergs, some as big as Crystal ships. Lunch and drinks were served on the back deck, where we watched a glacier calve and listened to it crackle. Guests on zodiacs had close-up views of the pale blue ice above the water and eau-denil-coloured water around submerged parts.

The Vikings inhabited North America for 70 years and Greenland for nearly 500. There they had large farms on fertile plains until the climate deteriorated. When the weather grew too cold and the seas too stormy, they left. At the charmingly colourful Inuit town of Nanortalik, Greenland, we strolled through an open-air village of preserved buildings with explanations written in Inuit, Danish, and English. The Inuit people were welcoming, and sang to us. Some demonstrated their kayaking skills, flipping and righting their boats in quick rotations.

Northern Lights came as an added bonus. For several nights, they teased us with hints of green and gold. Then, late one night, the sky came alive in breath-taking green.

“Many people choose Seabourn venture cruises to explore,” the hotel director said. “The experiences we offer are different from any other line. Adventure makes learning tangible and fun. Not everyone is interested in Vikings. Some enjoy animals, glaciers, or just being at sea.”

By the end of the voyage, guests’ understanding of Vikings had changed. As skilled metallurgists, the Vikings designed and built ships with nails and metal oar casings. As rule-abiding citizens, in 915, they established an Icelandic open-air parliament where women and men were equal. The seafarers from Norway and Denmark were not only energetic warriors, they gave the world important innovations in sailing, ship construction, weaponry, and government. No longer mere North Atlantic renegades, the Norsemen were indeed viewed as resourceful in their quests.

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